November 2016

TEXTILE

VALUE CHAIN

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November 2016 Volume 4 Issue 11 Pages 76 Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 17/18 of month

Indian Textile Engineering industry is rising in the horizon...!!!

8India ITME 2016 Company Focus 8Global Focus : Indo - Poland Trade, Donald Trump & China 8Technical Article : Green Chemistry in Textile 8Global Event Reports 8Market Reports : Cotton/ Yarn / Surat Cluster 8COE- WRA

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November 2016

November 2016

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In recent times, world is talking about 2 economy , in fact two individual, one is elected USA President Mr. Donald Trump & second is Indian Prime Minister Mr. Narendra Modi. Common factor between them is both won election with good marketing strategies, leading now strongest and fastest economy of world.

Two individual made commitment to eradicate the corruption in the world. Black to white..!!! Victory of this both leaders realised that people want change in the leadership of their own country.

Demonetisation, recent strategy taken by our PM, the action was intended to target wealthy tax evaders and end “shadow economy�, but it has also exposed the dependency of poor farmers and small businesses on informal credit systems in a country where half the population has no access to formal banking, as Cash is integral part of Indian economy(85%). India is still way behind using plastic/online money unlike

Suddenly every cats/dogs/pigs talking about the strategy taken for country is good or bad..!! Have we thought about this before electing any individual as a leader, have we mapped him/her about their

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the country have its own destiny. Recently, people are more proactive, opinionated, judgemental about everything occurs in & around the life due to excess usage of social media, internet. Positive is world is now connected virtually, but Are we connected by heart, by positive thoughts, by positive attitude??

Kindly Think...!!!

Wish you Very Happy Winters & Good luck to all participant of INDIA ITME 2016..!!

Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the

and present factual and accurate information.

The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

6

Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.

Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed & Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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November 2016

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Eveready Spinning Mills Private Limited was established in the year 1988. The group now operates four spinning mills located within a 3 km radius. The currently installed capacity of the group exceeds 151 000 spindles, 2 300 rotors and 60 high-speed automatic circular knitting machines. It has a production capacity of 36 million kilograms of yarn per year.

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CONTENT NEWS 11- SAF & SIMA 12- GEM Enviro Management COVER STORY: Indian Textile engineering industry rising in the Horizon..!!!

13- Importance of Indian textile machinery in Global Textile industry

by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 14- Note of Indian Textile Industry

November 2016 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM

by Mr. Kishor Khaitan

Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale

16- Make in India- Is it Happening? by Mr. Sanjay Jain 17- Global Textile Machinery industry by Ms. Seema Srivastava 18- Effects of Demonetisation on manufacturing sector

INDUSTRY

INDIA ITME 2016 FOCUS COMPANY 21- Bianco & Colorjet 22- Groz Beckert 23- ICC 24- Inspiron & Itema 25- N. Schlumberger 26- Rabatex 27- Sanjay Plastic 28- Santex Rimar & Textechno 29- Tumkalip 30-Vandewiele 31-Rotor Craft & Italy Domestic Market 32-ATE- Savio : ITMA ASIA

by Mr. Harish Chatterjee

19- Design thinking: Paradigm shift in textile industry

by Mr. Rushin Vadhani

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

GLOBAL FOCUS 45- China will have great gains from the presidency of Donald Trump by Mr. Arvind Sinha 46- Poland- India Trade Opportunity by Mr. Amit Lath 48- GOTS Seminar in Bangladesh

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

TECHNICAL ARTICLE 49- Green Chemistry in Textiles by SVITS Professor CASE STUDY 52- Sharda Group SHOW REPORT 53- Indian Textile Sourcing Exhibition & ITMA ASIA 54- Workshop in Sustainability of Cotton supply chain 55- Taiwan explore in south Asian market 56- ITMF – Jaipur

Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com Tel : +91-9818026572

MARKET REPORT 57- Cotton Report 59- Surat Cluster 60- Yarn Report 63- COE- WRA 64- GST 65- Show Calendar 39- SHOW CALENDAR

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Birla Cellulose Front inside: Raysil Page 3: Asmeeta Texpa Page 4 : Sanjay Plastic Page 5 : SGS Innovation Page 7 : Rieter Page 8 : Balaji Syn Fab

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Page 9 : Colorjet Page 33 : Stanter Page 34: SITEX Page 35: ATE Page 36: Hometex Page 37: Luthra Pneumsys Page 38: Shreeraj Corporation & Patco Export

Page 39 : Shreeram Textiles Page 40 : U S AQUATREAT CO. Page 41: Kirloskar Toyato Page 42: Textyle Expo : Algeria Page 43 : Witmans Page 44 : Adarsh Technology Page 67: ATE Page 68 : Non Woven Tech

Page 69: Amith Garment & Vora Associate Page 70: Techtexil Page 71: Tuffplast Page 72: ITS Page 73: Deep Textiles Page 74: Amarjyothi

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November 2016

1(:6

SASMIRA ALUMNI FOUNDATION are the stars, shine light on the Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile community.

Only with a single aim of focussing light on friends, colleagues and peers, these stars of The synthetic and Art Silk Mills Research Association (SASMIRA), an organization representing 30,000 plus strong community of Textile Engineers, majority of them

entrepreneurs and professionals and have

positions in the textile value chain, have chosen to join hands and become the driving force to promote textiles education in the country.

Under the mentorship of the principal of SASMIRA, Mr. Andhorikar to the active committee members who are the chosen front â&#x20AC;&#x201C;runners of this drive. Started in the month of October this association has been able to bring together the ex-students of

keeps continuing and growing everyday. At the moment it is solely funded by the alumni membership drive and plans various activities for the college students and teachers.

SIMA appeals for slew of remedial measures to overcome impact of demonetization Mr.M.Senthil Kumar, Chairman, The Southern India Millsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association (SIMA) has highly appreciated the bold ini

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Prime Minster to demonetize currencies of high value.

The withdrawal of around 86% of the currency in circulation and issuance of less than 10% of currency in the denomination of Rs.2000/- has led to severe shortage of funds for regular operations, purchase

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goods (yarn, fabric etc.,) and also the purchase of the regular requirements of stores, spares, accessories in the textile industry.

In a Press Release issued here today, Mr.Senthil Kumar has stated that a representation was sent to the Honâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ble Union Textile Minister, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani ap-

November 2016

In order to stimulate the potential of the talented alumni members, SAF will be

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the attendee alumni members will be able to interact with all the industry profession

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opportunities and alliances.

Starting with the 2 most important events ITME in December at the Bombay Exhibition Centre and Heimtextil Frankfurt, SAF committee will create a platform for all the members to connect and network with their fellow alumni. The only string that attaches these individuals is their compassion and gratitude towards the institute. Mr. Mahesh Bapat the secretory of SAF feels emotional while stating â&#x20AC;&#x153;Life gives us brief moments with one another, when we were studying together we never knew how far our destiny will take us. But today after so many years when we get an opportunity to cherish those dreams it always becomes a bigger pictures when you can share with those who were part of your developmentâ&#x20AC;?

Some of the most important functions of SAF are â&#x20AC;˘ To create a forum where Alumni can contact each other for better career possibilities. â&#x20AC;˘ To organize get-togethers where alumni can meet and create network with each other. â&#x20AC;˘ To create a platform where alumni can

pealing the Government to announce a slew

nancial impact of demonetization and high value currencies on the textile industry. Mr. Senthil Kumar has stated that the textile retail showrooms and shops across the Nation are hit by cash crunch and low sales as the customers are starving for currencies and spending the rationed currency available with them only for emergency purpose. He has stated that the stocks started piling up across the value chain of the textile industry and the textile units are not in a position to collect any receivables and therefore cash '

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fected. SIMA Chairman has further stated that the cotton price increased by around Rs.2000/- per candy as the cotton arrival to the market came to a grinding halt during

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has currently improved to the level of 50 to 60%. Mr.Senthil Kumar has stated that it might take at least six months for the textile industry to reach normalcy in its performance.

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help college students by providing them

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opportunities, etc. â&#x20AC;˘ To organize social activities like: Blood donation camps, cluster upliftment

â&#x20AC;˘ Other than the above mentioned, Thriving Alumni is always ready to render any possible help to students, faculty, or others connected directly or indirectly to the college.

Even today, textiles sector is one of the largest contributors and employers in India.

It employs about 40 million workers and 60 million indirectly. This is the only sector which involves the entire value chain of skillful led employees from a spinners to designers. Its legacy of over 150 years brings huge gamut of opportunities together. The alumni members are of the strong belief that this initiative can create an impact on the development and enhancement of the network for building huge opportunities to each and every members of this fraternity. SAF believes that alumni members are drops of this huge gamut of textiles and the force that can be created with bringing them together can be parallel to strength beyond exception. For any further detail you can log onto www.sasmiraaf.com

SIMA chief has stated that the Association has sought for the following remedial measures to enable the industry to mitigate the challenges posed by the cash crunch created by demonetization:1.

The spinning sector is already reeling under recession due to sharp fall in yarn exports. In the aftermath of demonetization of high value currencies, extend [\ ] "^

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exports and enable the industry to boost cotton yarn exports and improve its global competitiveness. [ "

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and manage the inventory, enhance the working capital limit by 50%.

3.

Though the government has announced two months moratorium for the loans up to Rs.1 crore, the textile industry

needs at least one year moratorium period for repayment of loans and interest to prevent the textile units becoming NPAs. 4.

RBI has already indicated that the >

11

1(:6 stressed units in the country. The performance of the textile units in the post demonetization period has aggravated and therefore, it is essential to increase the existing NPAs period from 90 days to one year to avoid textile units becoming NPAs. 5.

Considering the grave situation of the textile units, the Government may consider deferring all the tax payments for a period of six months.

6.

The cotton farmers prefer cash to sell their kapas in the market as they owe debts to the private money lenders. They fear that banks might adjust their debts if

GEM Enviro Management launches â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Rivivereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; - Recycle polyester Fiber, Spun yarn and Premium fabric by Ganesha Ecosphere â&#x20AC;˘ GEM is the marketing and branding Partner for Ganesha Ecosphere Ltd. â&#x20AC;˘ Launches the brand at the much coveted Yarn Fabric and Accessories Trade Show 2016, at the NSIC Exhibition Centre, New Delhi New Delhi, 23 November 2016:Gem Enviro Management Private Limited, formed to facilitate recycling of all kinds of packaging waste (such as PET, plastics, paper, etc) and marketing / promotion of recycled products, thus ensuring a greener and safer environment for the present and future generations, today announced the launch of its new brand â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Rivivere at the Yarn Fabric and Accessories Trade Show 2016, New Delhi.Rivivere stands for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;live again or bringing

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fashion and comfortâ&#x20AC;?

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the sale proceeds are transacted through bank. Therefore, one year moratorium period could be given to the cotton farmers for the repayment of loans and interest with clear instructions to the banks not to adjust the sale proceeds of kapas against their dues. CCI could also procure kapas at market price to help the farmers 7.

At present, the rate of interest is 12 to 13%. At this rate of interest, under the present scenario, the textile units cannot

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reduce interest rate by 3% for all the term loans and working capital loan across the

value chain.

8.

Majority of the workers do not have savings bank accounts due to cumbersome procedures including submission of KYC details. This discourages the migrant workers from opening savings bank accounts. Therefore, necessary direction may be given to the banks to enable the workers to open the accounts instantly by showing any ID proof. This would enable the employer to pay the wages through bank.

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and Premium fabric by Ganesha and GEM is the marketing and branding Partner for Ganesha Ecosphere Limited. Under this partnership, GEM Enviropromotes Ganesha Ecosphereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recycled products and help the company in its branding and marketing endeavors.

Fabric made from this yarn will be utilized in the premium segment of suiting,shirting,active wear and fashion fabrics. GEM will initially display formal wear, casual wear and Active wear fabricblended with various other yarns like cotton, and lycra, starting Nov 23rd up till Nov 26th at the YFA 2016 NSIC exhibition center, atOkhla , stall no. A30.

environmental sustainability, the company will be installing 1 RVM at the trade show, which will be collecting empty water bottles at the venue. The company willcreate awareness about this initiative amongst visitors and other participants at the exhibition.

Ganesha Ecosphere Ltd. Is Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading Recycling Company with a 25% market share, primarily engaged in the production of Recycled Polyester Staple Fiber (RPSF) from waste PET bottles. Pioneer in the process, GESL recycles more than 4.4 billion bottles annually.

Speaking at the launch, Sachin Sharma, CEO, GEM Enviro Management, commented, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We are delighted to bring forth |

along with Ganesha Ecosphere. There are no better platforms to launch our premium fashion brandRivivere, other than the Yarn Fabric and Accessories Trade Show, 2016 which is conceived to cover the entire textile value chain, and provide an unmatched opportunity to all stake holders and segment leaders, from across the globe to }

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form will witness participation from 250+ brands from an anticipated 15+ countries with over 15000+ trade visitors to visit the four day mega event.â&#x20AC;?

Upholding its reputation as a responsible corporate citizen, committed towards

About GEM Enviro Management GEM Enviro management Pvt Ltd is a Delhi-based organized packaging scrap management company that provides complete value chain solutions for packaging scrap management to its clients. It is among

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such services, which includes - collection, recycling and sale of recycled merchandise to its clients. Through its initiatives the company aims to promote sustainability, recycling, acceptance of recycled merchandise among mass and helps in conserving the environment. GEM provides wide range of services like scrap management, sales and marketing of recycled merchandise and organizing green awareness campaigns. Its sales are achieved via following activities: Sale of packaging Scrap to recyclers, and Sale of Recycled Merchandise to corporate and retail clients. These products are sold under its â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Being Responsibleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; motto.

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November 2016

&29(5 6725<

Importance of Indian Textile Machinery in Global Textile Industry

!" #!$%'! ] # ^Â Â&#x201A;Â&#x192;Â&#x201E; Â&#x2020;Â&#x2021;Â&#x201A;Â&#x192;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2030;Â&#x160; Â&#x2039;Â&#x201A;Â&#x152; Â&#x2018;Â&#x152;Â&#x2021; Global Textile Machinery Industry Global Textile machinery market is witnessing tremendous growth buoyed by growing demand of textile & apparel market.

It is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of 14.02%till 2018. It isexpected to reach to US $ 207.5 billion in 2015. The major manufacturers of textile machinery are Germany,Italy, Switzerland, France and now Â&#x201C; Â&#x201C;

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they installed a large set-up for spinning and weaving industry. One of the major trends in the Global Textile Machinery market is the growing number of technological innovations. The global market is divided into two parts i.e. Low cost manufacturing in developing countries (Labor concentrated market) where cheap labor and lower version technology is available & high cost manufacturing in developed countries where labor is expensive & more automation is needed to reduce operation cost.

foreign entities. In the decentralized sector, there are small-scale industrial units as well as tiny units engaged in the production of accessories pertaining to the textile machinery.Majority of the production comes from the States of Tamil Nadu and Gujarat; collectively contributing around 84 per cent of the production.

Indian Textile Machinery Industry The industry witnessed a growth of 8-10 per cent to Rs 22,000 crore in 2014-15 from Rs 20,000 crore in 2013-14.The size of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile machinery industry is poised to double to Rs 45,000 crore in the next 7 years from the present Rs 22,000 crore in light of new projects and emphasis on setting up textile parks. The textile machinery manufacturing section is one of the important segments of the machinery manufacturing industry in India. Our in-house pro

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This industry is nearly sixty years old and has more than1000 machinery and component manufacturing units. Nearly 300 units produce complete machinery and the remaining produce various textile machinery components.However, not all the units work to full capacity or even the optimum capacity level. Except for the units in the spinning sector where the machineries are of international standards; in the other sectors, machinery manufacturing for weaving, knitting and wet-processing lack high level ofquality standard and performance (in most of the cases) to compete with the European manufacturers. <HDU

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Indian Machinery Production FY 2012-13 ( In Crores)

In the weaving sector, shuttleless weaving machinery (rapier

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November 2016

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Around 87 per cent of the total production, i.e., textile machinery is coming from the six clusters namely Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Coimbatore, Ludhiana, Mumbai and Surat. These clusters are strategically located to serve the textile industry and have the af

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Ahmedabad is a cluster of weaving.

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Growth Drivers in India for Machinery Market Purchase of new machinery is the key growth driver of the market. One of the major growth drivers for global machinery market is the strong economic recovery; post-recession, increasing demand

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demand in the developing countries. Today machinery manufacturers produce textile machineries at competitive prices, and sophisticated machines of higher speed, and production capacity. Presence of numerous small scale players also makes the machinery sector more competitive. Along with them, MNCs have also entered the global arena, taking the competition to the next level, driving companies to work on their productivity and innovation.

The global demand of textile machinery is rising due to growing demand of textile industry. Today, Textile machinery sourcing

13

&29(5 6725< is majorly done from European countries, which is relatively costly.

India is strategically located from most of major textile & apparel producing countries and India has good potential to explore global

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cant textile producers.

Summary Indian Textile Machinery Industry has tremendous growth potential in coming future buoyed by growing global demand; the only need is to identify the untapped opportunities. We need to focus more on Research & Development (R&D) to manufacture high standard Textile Machinery which is required to produce quality goods and replace importsand alsoto export to other developing countries. There is a dier need of techno commercial viable machinery which can reduce capital cost substantially with appropriate op-

erating cost, this would give an edge over highly priced European and Japanese machinery. Indian The Indian Government has already declared â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;? drive to boost manufacturing sector. It should also support the R&D activities& allocate special funds for development of R&D centers. Our education pattern should develop research and innovation based concepts for Textile Engineering students so that the real growth happens within our country. Low material costs and economy of scale along with tremendous domestic market will give India an edge over other countries. However, India has to create its own brand and market Make in India products aggressively.

So letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s come together & create India as â&#x20AC;&#x153;NEXT TEXTILE MACHINERY HUBâ&#x20AC;? for global textile market.

NOTE ON INDIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY INDUSTRY PROSPECTS, CHALLENGES AND REMEDIES

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The Indian Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) is more than 100 years old with an illustrious history of achievements, including manufacture of advanced spinning machinery, power looms, weav

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accessories which amount to nearly 2/3rd of last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s export of about Rs. 2600 crs. * #

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has not grown to its potential. Import of machinery and spares in India (Rs 10385 crs.) still constitutes more than 70% in value of domestic demand. In comparison, China, which had a negligible TEI in 1990, has now grown into a major manufacturer and exporter of textile machinery and spares. Indian manufacturers sold about Rs. 3900 crs. worth machinery and spares in India and exported about Rs. 2600 crs (40% of production), while operating at only 60% capacity utilization.

The Indian TEI has the potential to grow more than 10 times to a USD 10 billion industry provided all the stakeholders including the government adopt a mission to â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make India a world leader in textiles by 2025â&#x20AC;?. We have the skills, the tradition, the designs, the manpower, the raw material and a large domestic market to achieve this but it shall remain a pipe dream if we do not channelize all forces to this common goal. Â&#x2014;

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industry growth and the remedial measures required: 1.

Lack of scale and technology: ]

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do not have the wherewithal to compete with global giants. High interest rates, reluctance of mills for using domestic products, lack

14

of access to latest technology, lack of R&D infrastructure with academic institutions not geared up to undertake R&D projects on commercial basis, lack of innovation and Zero-defects culture( chaltahai still prevails!), archaic labour laws â&#x20AC;&#x201C; these and innumerable other hurdles are the well-known impediments.

2.

Lack of presence in all sectors: India does not possess

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menting, non-wovens, technical textiles, embroidery, made-ups, garment accessories, etc. besides being leagues behind in weaving

3.

Adverse import policy: Many machines are imported at concessional or nil duty while components attract 25% or more duty ( including CVD). Second hand machines were also till last year enjoying subsidized interest and capital subsidy and duty concessions under TUF, EPCG and State promotional schemes whereas similar

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Lack of government support for technology advancement : While huge subsidies are provided under TUF scheme to Y

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ogy to make machinery and components at par with international standards. This in spite of fact that Indian machinery is typically 4060%% cheaper than imported in most cases. If the government pro

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scheme for TEI, there may not be any need for TUF for the textile industry as machinery and parts will be available at 40-60% lower cost! However, the strong lobby of foreign suppliers supported by domestic mills due to TUF scheme, had prevented this from happening in spite of the obvious advantages. Also the TUF for tex-

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2016

&29(5 6725< tile machinery would cost the government not more than 20% of what it provides for the textile industry. Huge savings to exchequer through subsidy reduction can be done if this faulty approach is corrected.

5.

Lack of ecosystem to support innovation: While Mills readily adopt new advancements by manufacturers abroad and willingly pay a huge mark-up on it, they are usually reluctant to try and encourage domestic innovatorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; products having apprehensions of quality, performance, reliability, consistency etc., even though the product is available at a fraction of the price. Also the

innovation fails, he has to close his company and sell collateral to repay the loan.

6.

Lack of advanced technical education: Most of the institutes have old curriculum, lack of modern and functioning labora #

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communication and management skills to students to prepare them for the real world. As such, all employers have to train the new recruits extensively, thus causing a great loss to the nation, to their productivity and competitiveness, to their ability to innovate and improve operations.

7.

Uncompetitive textile industry: When the customer <] =

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~ port TEI. Cheap imports through FTAs, SAARC countries and under wrong ITC code lead to dumping of imports from China and other countries at unsustainable prices. At the same time, import barriers that discriminate against Indian textiles as compared to China or LDC countries prevent domestic industry from getting their fair share of export market.

However, the situation is not as hopeless as it sounds since there is still a possibility to address these problems in a cohesive and united manner by all stake-holders. We are the second largest producer of textiles in the world, one of the largest markets and one of the largest importers of textile machinery. So the foundation exists, only the right action is required. The following are the suggested remedies for each of above problems: 1.

Building scale and technology: Government policy can help domestic manufacturers to build their capacity and technolo

import duty on import of components, TUF scheme for TEI, special soft loans scheme for JVs with manufacturers abroad for acquiring latest technology, concessional infrastructure in TEI parks (similar to textile parks scheme), special export promotion schemes to sup

>

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training and process improvement programs by adopting TPM, LEAN, Cluster programs similar to what the auto components industry ahs been able to achieve, special incentives for Mills and machinery manufacturers on buying domestic machinery and parts,

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abroad, etc.

2.

Provide attractive scheme for leading machinery manufacturers in weak presense sectors: If special scheme for invest

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Hope the mission to see Indian textiles lead the world becomes a reality soon!

One thing: you

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to encourage foreign suppliers to set up manufacturing in India, it will help develop local industry for components and also in due course lead to new Indian manufacturers for the same machinery, thus building a healthy and competitive market domestically and drastically cutting down on imports. Currently there is no incentive for manufacturers abroad to manufacture in India since the import policy favours them. The secret of Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success is in their ability to get foreign investment for domestic manufacturing of textile machinery and parts.

3.

Import policy biased towards domestic manufacturers: If, and only if, manufacturing in India entails savings in taxes as compared to imports will Indian TEI start becoming competitive and imports will be discouraged. This would lead to a rush of foreign manufacturers setting shop in India to prevent losing this growing and very important global market. China was smart enough to realize this early on and even forced companies to invest in China if they wanted their market.

4.

Government support: Already covered under point 1.

5.

Ecosystem to promote innovation: It is a huge challenge to change the mindset of all stakeholders involved â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the producers, the customers, the government and the academia. But it is worth it if it helps promotes innovation. Mills adopting an innovation support policy, institutions having grants to promote and support industrial research and innovation projects on commercial basis, practical training made mandatory for students to become employable, national awards for innovation in textiles and machinery to

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advanced manufacturing practices and quality norms in their plants

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timely deliveries would go a long way in transforming the current mindset.

6.

World class technical education: This can be promoted by inviting top international institutes( both for degree courses and vocational training) to start operation in India and creating a healthy competitive environment for the existing academic institutions. /( 8 9 ; < = > The government has a moral respon

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tic market. If textile imports, subsidized by exporting country or

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ered import prices, the ongoing decline of Indian textile industry cannot be prevented. Even Bangladesh and Vietnam are overtaking us at rapid speed! Indian market needs to be ring-fenced from dumping by introducing MIP similar to steel and anti-dumping measures adopted with alacrity. Also cotton exports needs to be regulated to balance the interests of farmers and Mills, since they have an interdependence they cannot wish away. Why export cotton when we can instead export yarn, cloth and garments?

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November 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

15

&29(5 6725<

# )? @K @KQ@ V @ @Z [ \\?K@K]

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Â&#x2018;Â&#x152;Â&#x2021; Â&#x17E; ]Â&#x;Â&#x2020; <""]# Â&#x2020; ¥Â&#x161;Â&#x2021;¢£¢Â&#x2021;= â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;? has been a major program of our Honourable Prime Minister and rightfully so as we have truly lagged behind in the manufacturing sector. There have been many conferences, program and discussions on the same â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the press is always full of mention of Make in India. We oursleves are a manufacturer who sells domestically and also exports across the globe. The Make in India program had excited me also personally and had hoped for a lot to happen.

India has ample labour at reasonable cost, a huge domestic market, ample opportunity for import subsitution, rich reserves of raw materials, a proactive Government â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all the ingredients are there but still the dish is far from complete as the receipe is yet to

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in the recent past when the economy is said to be growing at 7% plus is another disturbing and eye brow rising piece of data.

As I sit down and ponder objectively, prompted by the grow '

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{ | = ( I am asked by many youngsters as to what sectors and segments hold great potential. My instant reaction is that avoid the manufacturing sector â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it makes me guilty of not being in sync with our PM who I admire a lot. I looked around to see whether my advise is wrong, however sadly the more I analyse and look around, the more convinced I am that my advise is correct.

Many have countered me and said that as a business person I should be promoting Make in India strongly. I fully agree and

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is pertinent to understand as to why have the educated class of the country, mostly shunned entreprenuership and more so the manufacturing sector.

Being an MBA we tend to lean more towards logic and analysis, however over the years have learnt that â&#x20AC;&#x153;too much of analysis leads to paralysisâ&#x20AC;? and management is both art and science.

I would like to open up my heart and share my feelings/ thoughts which have developed with my experience, observations, information and knowledge over the years. I hope this would reach the people who matter and it would provoke some thoughts and actions which would lead to a better business environment.

Some reasons why manufacturing is a shunned industry are: Â&#x201D; Everyone feels owning a factory means your rich and wealthy

>

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leads to a factory being harrassed by: y Local people on various counts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; small & big y Inspectors appointed to comply with various laws, most of which are archaic and irrelevant today.Inspector raj has to be managed as they have omni powers to penalise you y Multiple laws regulate factories

16

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Labour and trade unions have to be managed Your presumed wrong and considered guilty unless proven innocent Land even after purchased or received as per law, has no guarantee. Firstly to get consolidated land for a factory is a night mare, and thereafter no insurance that its going to stay with you.

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Despite being one of the fastest growing economies, we are far behind even smaller nations when it comes to Ease of do

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130 out of 190 nations (means no progress made by us despite intentions).

Power costs are extremely high in most parts of the country.

The Electricity Act was passed in 2003, however still many States donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t allow purchase of power and many make it inviable by imposing cross subsidies, taxes, charges etc. Power on IEX is available as low as Rs 2/unit, however its landed cost to industry multiplies 2 to 3 times, where allowed to be purchased.

The moot point is that why should State Electricity Boards be allowed to act as monopolies ??

Interest rates are extremely high. Despite RBI having decreased their rates by 175 basis points over last 18 months, the banks have not even decreased by 100 basis points !!! Why should

Â?Â&#x2039;Â&#x2020;

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Instability of policies. The Government can retrospectively change anything they want leading to law abiding companies become violators, incentives due to companies being refused and so on. The only resort is going legal which we all know is prohibitively expensive and time consuming. Even after judgements in favour, its not easy to get justice from the Government.

Labour attrition, absentism, education levels makes manufacturing consistently a challenge. Some reasons for the same are: y Number of religious festivals we have across the country y MNRGEA which makes labour take long leaves for their home town y Culturally not a disciplined country y Education levels in rural still very low â&#x20AC;&#x201C; makes skilling dif y Propensity to migrate has reduced y Married women working is still very low

Â&#x201D;

¨ y Poor availability of consolidated land y Issues of employing large number of labour in one location â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one stray incident or displeasure of local leaders can ruin a company y Hardly any favourable FTAs which could provide a big mar-

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2016

&29(5 6725< ket to Indian companies to dare to set up large capacities Â&#x201D; Manufacturing is taxed and taxed, ensuring they never can gen

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some industry where they enjoy monopoly or subsidies. If we analyse the ROCE of manufacturing companies it would shock us all. Interesting to note the following: y A promoter of a dividend paying company pays almost 60% >

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then dividend tax. Is this equitable ?? y Apart from direct taxes, companies pay a host of indirect taxes. y Cross subsidies are the order of the day. Even after paying taxes and taxes for meeting Government expenditure, they have to pay cross subsidies on a host of expenses to subsidise other sectors like power, interest, freight etc. y Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the duty and work of Government to collect taxes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; however the tax abiding companies are forced to do this by way of TDS, TCS, Reverse charges etc. They are also heavily penalised for even a dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s default. Even indirect tax collection like VAT is the duty of the purchaser â&#x20AC;&#x201C; its duty of company to ensure his supplier pays taxes instead of VAT department who has registered them.

There is always a risk reward concept in business. However in India the manufacturing sector has a imbalanced risk reward relation. Manufacturing isnt everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup of tea â&#x20AC;&#x201C; those choosing have to bear many of the above mentioned risks in any part of the world, but the fact is that the rewards for the risk are also there. In India the sector is considered a cash cow to be milked and milked â&#x20AC;&#x201C; when it cant be milked anymore its simply butchered to withdraw every ounce and drop of blood.

Unless we in spirit donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t understand the importance of man-

ufacturing sector and its role in development of the country by generating employment, revenue, self reliance, earning foreign exchange by exports & import subsitution, reducing cost of products for the common man â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we shall never ever see the dream of India becoming a manufacturing hub and factory of the world like other nations (China, Korea, Japan, Taiwan, Thailand etc) have become over the last few decades.

Today the service sector looks attractive and all are zeroing for the same â&#x20AC;&#x201C; India was a under serviced nation and hence we have seen high rates of growth. However going forward without a vibrant primary economy how can the supporting segments thrive and grow. The Government has no doubt understood all this and hence â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;? came up, however to realise the dreams on ground, we have miles to go. We also recognise that it needs the

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hence important to build a Federal consensus like being done for GST. Federal competitiveness is already visible and the Statewise ranking on Ease of Doing Business is also a welcome step.

We hope the ground level problems are understood and appreciated before its too late. The world is round and with advent of robots and automation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; manufacturing may very well go back to the developed world where most of the above mentioned irritants/ obstacles are not there.

Would like to conclude with a disclaimer, that I am not a pessimist and very well know that we are improving on various fronts.

Every day new postives are happening especially on the infrastructure and technology front â&#x20AC;&#x201C; however am worried by the pace of activities and our relative position to competiting nations (the recent World Bank Report and industrial growth rates which donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t show any relative improvement validates my feeling as a businessman).

Global Textile Machinery Industry

#"( %%}! !"+! ! ŠÂ&#x161;ÂŞÂ Â&#x152;Â&#x192;Â&#x201A;Â&#x161; Â&#x192;Â&#x160;Â&#x161;ÂŞÂ&#x152;Â&#x2030;Â&#x160; Â&#x2030;Â&#x203A; "Â? "Â&#x2020; " ] ^ÂŤÂ&#x201C;" ÂŹ

The growing demand of textile & apparel market has led to a tremendous growth in the Global textile machinery market. It is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of around 11% by 2020. The major manufacturers of textile machinery are Germany, Italy, Switzerland, France, Japan and now China. China (22%)is now worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top exporting country for textile machinery followed by Germany (15%), Japan (9%), Italy (9%) and Korea (5%). Some of the emerging trends in Global Textile Machinery Industry are:Automation in textile machinery and growing popularity of spinning machinery. Thus, there is a good demand for technological innovations in the Global Textile Machinery market.

Indian SCENARIO India being one of the emerging economies, demand for textile machinery is growing. The textile machinery manufacturing sector is one of the important segments of the Indian machinery manufacturing industry.The Indian textile machinery industry is expected to almost grow by twofolds in 2022. The growth expectation is based on increasing demand of textile and apparel market in India. In

November 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

2014, the textile machinery industry witnessed about 10 per cent growth to reach Rs 22,000 Crore (US$ 3.4 billion). Textile sector is one of the largest contributors to Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exports with approximately 11% of total exports. Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overall textile exports during FY 2015-16 stood at US$ 40 billion.

The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US$ 108 billion, is expected to reach US$ 223 billion by 2021. The industry is the second largest employer after agriculture, providing employment to over 45 million people directly and 60 million people indirectly. The Indian Textile Industry contributes approximately 5 per cent to Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gross Domestic Product (GDP), and 14 per cent to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP). Hence it is utmost necessary that Indian textile machine manufacturing industry has to strengthen its base for quality output accepted at international level.

Indian Government Initiative : Indian government has come out with many attractive policies to boost growth of textile industry. The key policies given by the

17

&29(5 6725< central government and various state government s are as follows: Â&#x201D; The Union Ministry of Textiles, which has set a target of doubling textile exports in 10 years, plans to enter into bilateral agreements with Africa and Australia along with working on a

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Ying guidelines for the revised Textile Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). Â&#x201D; Subsidies on machinery and infrastructure:

y The Revised Restructured Technology Up gradation Fund

y

y

Scheme (RRTUFS) covers manufacturing of major machinery for technical textiles for 5 % interest reimbursement and 10 % capital subsidy in addition to 5 % interest reimbursement also

>

RRTUFS. Under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP), the Government of India provides assistance for creation of infrastructure in the parks to the extent of 40 % with a limit up to Rs 40 Crore (US$ 6 million). Under this scheme the technical textile

The major machinery for production of technical textiles re-

ceives a concessional customs duty list of 5 %. Â&#x201D; The Government of India has implemented several export promotion measures such as Focus Market Scheme, Focus Product Scheme and Market Linked Focus Product Scheme for increasing share of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile exports. Â&#x201D; Â&#x2DC;

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Â&#x2020; <] Â&#x2020;= ^ # nancial assistance is provided for a range of export promotion activities implemented by Textiles Export Promotion Councils.

As Indian textile industry has shown remarkable growth in the global market and knowing that India would be the most favorable growing economy in coming years, Indian textile machinery manufacturing has to witness much faster growth and take a larger share in the global market.

Globally there is a need for appropriate technology to tone down manufacturing cost and yet to produce quality textiles. I feel India would be the best nominee to take care of this requirement.

We at India ITME Society have already taken various initiatives to boost morale of all our members and given them platforms for technology upgradation and knowledge sharing in global markets.

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sector # [! " )( Â&#x20AC; !++% ^%% ÂŽÂ&#x192;ÂŞÂ&#x161; Â&#x2039;Â&#x160;Â&#x161;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x192;Â&#x2021;Â&#x161;Â&#x201E;Â&#x152; } ]¢Â&#x201E; Â&#x203A;¢ªÂ&#x152; Â&#x160;Â&#x192;Â&#x201E;ÂŻ |¢°¥Â&#x2030;Â&#x201E;Â&#x2021; Â&#x2018;Â&#x152;Â&#x2021; On the eve of 8th Novâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;16 as our Prime Minister declared thedemonetization of 500 Rs. as well as 1000 Rs. bills in circulation.As I saw our PM addressing nation on my television set, I felt very pleased andhappy;I thought that this step will rid Indian economy of Black money and Fake currency notes. ^

monetization became evident in whole country as well as in my backyard(our plants),it became more and more apparent that my thoughts couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be far from truth. The happiness that we all felt on that eve was nothing, but deep rooted jealousy that we bear towards all those who possess Black money. The more I think of

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eludes me in night. I think that these repercussions will haunt us for next four quarters.

Increasingly it is becoming evident that this bold move was less of â&#x20AC;&#x153;strikeâ&#x20AC;&#x153; on â&#x20AC;&#x153;black moneyâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;fake currencyâ&#x20AC;? and more of action against entire â&#x20AC;&#x153;Moneyâ&#x20AC;? in cash form. It was not the scraping of 500 Rs. and 1000 Rs. bills but abrupt and abnormal control on about 85% liquidation of market. ]

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I take out this money and pay it as bribe, now it has changed it color to black; Going on, this gentleman who has taken the bribe spends the same money in some shop, only to make money change its color

18

from black to white. ^

to stop these alleged transactions. Essentially the problem lies in transactions and not in currency notes.

This decision taken by our Prime Minister (I am using PM instead of Govt.) seems to be taken in unnecessary haste and without taking into consideration all possible outcomes. The demonetizationdriven cash crunch that is playing out in India will paralyze economic activity in the near future. This will indirectly lead to unemployment of labors who until now were receiving salaries in cash. Some of the other such consequences that are pertinent in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market areSecondary Market has lost its 75% of market and all major companies are thinking of partial closer of their operations.

durations.

Large sized enterprises can easily tide over the cash crunch. But most tiny and micro enterprises which constitute 40-45 % of manu

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class employee who work in private sector and pay his/her taxes

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resort to cost cutting; this will take toll on their increments and promotions.

The demonetization is big blow to manufacturing sector we should be mentally prepared to take the hit and stand again on our feet.

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2016

&29(5 6725< Design Thinking: Paradigm Shift in Textile Industry

Shri Â&#x201A;" [(Â&#x192;!Â&#x201E; !

AGM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Market Research & Product Development Â&#x2020;ÂŹ] ^°Â&#x201E;Â&#x152;Â&#x161;Š Â&#x2018;Â&#x192;ÂĄÂ&#x192;Â&#x152;Â&#x161;Â&#x2021; <Â&#x2122;Â&#x2030;Â&#x160;ÂĄÂ&#x161;²° Â&#x2014;Â&#x161;²Â&#x2C6;³ Â&#x201E; ^°Â&#x201E;Â&#x152;Â&#x161;Š Â&#x2018;Â&#x152;Â&#x2021;= â&#x20AC;&#x153;Most people make the mistake of thinking design is what it looks like. People think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s this veneer â&#x20AC;&#x201D; that the designers are handed this box and told, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make it look good!â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not what we think design is.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Steve Jobs The growth of textile industry is socially and economically sig

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try and is considered as the biggest challenge for the Industry now.

In the era of wearable computing, intelligent systems are breaking the bounds of traditional textiles and their design. The integration of the technologies with clothing, accessories, upholstery or industrial technical textiles provides higher user-comfort and enables their seamless use in everyday activities. Investment in spinning and weaving equipment are increased very rapidly in Countries which are producing and exporting textiles. The Government plans suitable measures to facilitate that the Textile Industry grows at the rate of 18-22% per annum. The Government also needs

ated by creating new infrastructure and also by strengthening the existing ones. Need to move towards increasing productivity for increasing export growth of textiles. Purchasing new machinery or enhancing the quality of the existing machinery and introducing new technology can also be very useful in increasing the research and development (R&D) related activities.

Indian textile industry: The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US $108 billion, is expected to reach US $ 141 billion by 2021. The industry is the second largest employer after agriculture, providing direct employment to over 45 million and 60 million people indirectly. The Indian Textile Industry contributes approximately 5 per cent to GDP, and 14 per cent to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP). The Indian government has come up with a number of export promotion policies for the textiles sector. It has also allowed 100 per cent FDI in the Indian textiles sector under the automatic

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like polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. In India, the textile industry is the single largest industry with 50 lakhs peoples are employed directly or indirectly with respect to 1800 textile mills located in different parts of India.

Introduction

Textile Value Chain

The Textile Industry is a major foreign exchange earner of the Country. It earns more than 35% of the total exports revenue made in our country. The Textile Industry occupies a very important place in the Indian economy. In the human life Apparel has created a vital place from the ancient time to modern era of globalization. Textile products production became the second large scale economic industry providing considerable employment which is just next to agriculture industry. Textile products and textile machineries industries are vital parts of the world economy, providing employment to tens of millions of both men and women workers in all over more than two hundred countries. The world textile industry is on continual institutional changes everyday due to globalisation and heavy competition. China, India, Pakistan and Vietnam are the traditional giants in the manufacturing of textile products and machineries and they are always having competition with each other. Even though the textile industries plants are located throughout the world, China is dominating the entire scene with respect to textiles products and machineries. India is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest manufacturers and exporter of textiles products and it has invested in more spinning and weaving equipment second to china. The main factor which is contributed to lagging in the cotton textile industry throughout the world is outdated technology of machineries and getting skilled labours when compared to positive growth factors like ecological friendly, good biodegradable character of cotton, better versatility, export capability, creation of employment for people by it in industrial and agricultural sectors.

Problems and challenges:

November 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

The lack of research and development (R and D) facilities & initiative of Textile companies to aggressively start innovating rather than following western world.There needs to be paradigm shift from being traditional industry to modern intelligent industry.

The inability to timely modernize the equipment and machinery has led to the decline of India textile competitiveness. Due to obsolete technology the cost of production is higher in India as compared to and china.

The above reason increased the cost of production of textile industry which create problem for a textile industry to compete in international market. High cost of doing business is because of intensive increase in the rate of interest which has increased the problems of the industry.

There needs to complete paradigm shift in textile industry considering above scenario & make use of concept of design thinking for sustainable future considering optimum utilization of resources.

Q Z q Design Thinking is a methodology used by designers to solve >

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Â&#x2020; sign mindset is not problem-focused, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s solution focused and action oriented towards creating a preferred future. Design Thinking draws upon logic, imagination, intuition, and systemic reasoning, to explore possibilities of what could beâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and to create

19

&29(5 6725< desired outcomes that benefit the end user (the customer). â&#x20AC;&#x153;Design thinking can be described as a discipline that uses the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sensibility and methods to match peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs with what is technologically feasible and what a viable business strategy can convert into customer value and market opportunity.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tim Brown CEO, IDEO ChristophMeinel and Larry Leifer, of the HPI-Stanford Design Thinking Program, lay out four principles for the successful implementation of design thinking: the human rule, the ambiguity rule, the re-design rule, and the tangibility rule. Meinel and Leifer arrived at their principles through academic investigation and research of the design thinking method, in which they sought to un

thinking method produced consistently positive results.[14]

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;human rule,â&#x20AC;? states that successful design activities are ultimately social in nature, and that successful design takes a human-centric point of view. Meinel and Leifer emphasize that this rule is â&#x20AC;&#x153;an imperative to solve technical problems in ways that solve human needs and acknowledge the human element in all technologists and managers.â&#x20AC;?

The second rule, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;ambiguity rule,â&#x20AC;? commands designers to preserve ambiguity. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Innovation demands experimentation at the limits of our ability to control events, and with the freedom to see

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ing will be unable to produce successful end products.

The third rule, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;re-design rule,â&#x20AC;? makes the assertion that all design is re-design, and that there are few, if any, entirely new problems that the human race has not faced before in its history.

The authors recommend that designers look to the past for historical solutions that have worked; while social circumstances and technology have evolved, many problems are of an enduring na

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into the future, the authors stress that designers should look to understand the core nature and history of the problem they are trying to solve instead of the technical solutions currently available.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;tangibility rule,â&#x20AC;? suggests that

ers is to make abstract ideas tangible. The methodology for design thinking that they describe includes instructions for conceptual prototyping that help to facilitate this communication Distinctions Between Design and Design Thinking â&#x20AC;&#x153;Design is the action of bringing something new and desired into existenceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a proactive stance that resolves or dissolves problematic situations by design. It is a compound of routine, adaptive and design expertise brought to bear on complex dynamic situations.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Harold Nelson, The Design Way Nigel Cross (2007), in his book Designerly Ways of Knowing, says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everything we have around us has been designed. Design ability is, in fact, one of the three fundamental dimensions of human intelligence. Design, science, and art form an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; not an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; relationship to create the incredible human cognitive ability.â&#x20AC;? y ^ ¡

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y Design â&#x20AC;&#x201D; creating feasible â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wholesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; from infeasible â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;partsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

ing and pursuing innovation in ways that contribute to organic growth and add real value to your customers. Creativity is central to the design process. The design thinking cycle involves observation to discover unmet needs within the context and constraints of a particular situation, framing the opportunity and scope of innova #

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This diagram illustrates the design thinking framework created

by The Design Council (UK), which maps the design process into

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illustrates the divergent and convergent stages of the design process.

Design thinking informs human-centered innovation Human-centered innovation begins with developing an understanding of customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or usersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; unmet or unarticulated needs.â&#x20AC;&#x153;The most secure source of new ideas that have true competitive advantage, and hence, higher margins, is customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; unarticulated needs).Customer intimacyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a deep knowledge of customers and their problemsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;helps to uncover those needs.â&#x20AC;?

Design thinking minimizes the uncertainty and risk of innovation by engaging customers or users through a series of prototypes

#

insights gained from real-world experiments, not just historical data or market research. y Develop the mindsets, skillsets, and toolsets of designers, artists, and innovators y How to connect more deeply with customers to discover opportunities for innovation y Break through barriers that have kept you stuck y Experiment with idea generation, critical thinking, aesthetic ways of knowing, problem-solving and rapid-prototyping y Foster a culture that enhances creativity and innovation y

Generate ideas to seed your innovation ecosystem

Design thinking is advance way of innovation for same persistent problems of Man-Material-Machine which is being very intensive in Textile Industry purely because of its nature of operation & business model.

I believe with concept of design thinking Textile Industry & its 9

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tainable future but also being extremely competitive with global competitors.

Key References : â&#x20AC;˘ ¸

â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

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www.researchgate.com www.creativityatwork.com/design-thinking-strategy-for-innovation/ www.forbes.com www.ideo.com Textile Magazines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Indian Textile Journal ,Textile Value Chain & Textile Excellence

*Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author in his personal capacity of knowledge & perspectives on the mentioned subject .

A Framework for Design Thinking This framework integrates classic creative problem-solving (CPS) with art and design methodologies.

20

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November 2016

,1',$ ,70( )2&86

Bianco showing eco-clean washing line â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Happy Scourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for MMF & elastomer fabrics y y y y

Bianco Happy Scour eco-clean washing line removes enzymatic residuals Especially developed for fabrics produced from synthetic or

Printed or dyed fabrics appear uniform, compact and with a soft handle

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and cost saving.

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displaying the Bianco Happy ScourÂŽ, an advanced and ecoclean washing line to remove weaving oils with reduced economic and environmental impact at the upcoming ITME India in hall H5, stall A6 B5.

With the Bianco Happy ScourÂŽ, it is now possible to obtain excellent quality fabrics at much lower costs than those incurred in traditional washing. Â&#x; * ^ Âş

tomer, which are the most sensitive to shrinkage and have got the highest oil content. This technology can be successfully applied on all kinds of fabrics, which need to be washed before heat setting.

The Bianco Happy ScourÂŽ is mounted in front of a stenter and when combined with a traditional squeezing padder, allows continuous in-line preparation and fabrics are produced in a way, so do not need washing before dyeing.

Bianco Happy ScourÂŽ utilises a speciality chemical product for the scouring of oils, expressly developed for this purpose, which contains natural water-soluble compound; cleaning agent; dispersing agent and lastly a sequestering agent. The technology guarantees an absolutely tensionless process and furthermore the special treatment in the washing tank with nozzles, helps create a gentle

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By using this Bianco machine, there is no smoke at the stenterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entry and exit and after heat setting, fabrics scoured with Bianco Happy ScourÂŽ, also have a soft and natural handle, as all the oils are removed before the fabrics enters the stenter and do not get burnt into the fabric.

When using conventional technologies, the smell of knitting oils inside untreated fabric is unmistakable, but when processing

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After heat setting, the fabrics which have been scoured in Happy ScourÂŽ will incur far less yellowing and have a better uniform tone compared to partially scoured fabrics, as fabrics scoured improperly will never give a perfect dyeing result. While printed or dyed fabrics appear uniform, compact and with a soft handle without adding softeners, when fabrics are processed on the Happy ScourÂŽ.

The shortening of the dyeing time, due to the absence of fabric

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properties remain, almost unchanged. The Happy ScourÂŽ process also guarantees the best recipe in terms of performance and cost saving.

The consumption of water inside the washing tank is only given by the fabricsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; absorption. The second rinsing tank gives excellent results, primarily due to the innovative nozzles washing fabrics on both sides, thereby leading to extremely reduced water consumption in the range of 4-6 litres per kg of fabrics.

About Bianco S.p.A: For over 40 years, Italy based BiancoÂŽ S.p.A has designed and manufactured machinery with advanced technology for textile and

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ColorJet machines cost 30% lower vis-Ă -vis competitors Customers get rugged and long-lasting digital technology ColorJet to showcase live demonstration of Metro & Vastrajet at ITME India

ColorJet India Ltd, the biggest Indian manufacturer of digital inkjet printing machines, after massive installations in the Indian market, now looks forward to embark on 100 plus installation of

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November 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

be the leader in digital textile printing technology.

In sync with the Make-in-India initiative of Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi, ColorJetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Made in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; technology and state-ofâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; the-art manufacturing facility have been the major breakthroughs in achieving its goals. Through these two initiatives, the company has succeeded in keeping their machine costs, up to 30% lower than Italian and Japanese machines.

Without compromising on quality, ColorJet has been able to offer competitive prices due to three main reasons; Q=

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chines with the assurance that the customer gets a rugged and longlasting technology 2) Many of the spares parts are manufactured indigenously without compromising on quality, thus saving cost and

customers. Many of the parts of the machine are handcrafted and provisioned, so the quality remains uncompromised.

3) Since the manufacturing is done in India, the company has the advantage of saving on labour and infrastructure cost, which are far lesser as compared to imported machines. â&#x20AC;&#x153;ColorJet digital printers have minimalistic downtimes; since we ensure that multi-point quality checks are done at every stage of manufacturing. Creating customer delight is our top priority and we do not leave any stone unturned in achieving the same,â&#x20AC;? Mr Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at Colorjet India said.

At ITME India in Hall 2, Stall A6, ColorJet is showcasing its high speed direct to fabric printer, the Metro, which gives a production speed of up to of 362 sq. metres per hour, and is upgradable upto 16 print heads for achieving the top speed.

The high speed is achieved through specially designed jetting controls to optimise print heads performance, to match the high jetting frequency. Compatible to work with all types of inks like reactive, disperse and pigment, this printer weaves magic on a variety of fabrics.

Automatic temperature control enables print heads to deliver same print results, while specially integrated VPC technology en

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Metro prints on any kind of fabric, ranging from 0.1mm to 30mm including cotton, polyester, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and various blended fabrics. â&#x20AC;&#x153;With awesome scalable properties, this printer can suit all the needs of the textile printing business and ensures the least payback period and is capable of meeting the ever changing requirements,â&#x20AC;?

Mr Bansal added. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Buyers to the ColorJet stall at ITME India will be able to witness how the Metro has been synchronised and engi

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countries. To-date, ColorJet has installed over 4,000 of its printing solutions across 315 cities around the world backed by an over 280 strong member team, of which almost 100 are in technical related functions.

Groz-Beckert presents product variety Albstadt, Germany/Mumbai, India. The India International Textile Machinery Exhibition (ITME) takes place in Mumbai, India from December 3 to 8, 2016. For the 10th time, the trade fair will be presenting international trends in the textile industry. Groz-Beckert will be among the exhibitors as well, with products and solutions in the areas of Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Carding and Sewing at booth A23 in hall 6.

In the Knitting sector Groz-Beckert will highlight the areas of

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parent exhibits - detailed replicas of real knitting machines - provide visitors with insights into the interplay of knitting machine needles and system parts. Another highlight will be the presentation of the litespeedÂŽ plus needle. Its optimized geometry lowers machine temperature and increases service life, while reducing oil consumption and enabling energy savings in the knitting process of up to 20 percent. In the area of warp knitting, the transparent exhibits also give interested parties a look at compound needles and warp modules from Groz-Beckert.

Cleaning, drawing-in, knotting, weaving - Groz-Beckert is a full-service operator in the area of Weaving. High quality weaving accessories and machines for weaving preparation serve practically every application. Among others, Groz-Beckert is presenting the KnotMaster warp-tying machine, whose modular system sets standards in service and ease of maintenance. Despite a multitude of functions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; four knot types, simple and double knots, short knot ends and yarn-break detector â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the modern touch-screen control is

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especially easy to operate. The wide variety of applications helped establish, in particular, the standard version AS/3. The wide range of products in the area of weaving is completed by a comprehen

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knowledge and intensive application advice.

The product area Felting will also be presenting at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s India ITME. With its variety and full range of products, Groz-Beckert provides the ideal needle solution for every application. This prod

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such as SiroLockÂŽ and EvoStepÂŽ, whose unique properties contribute to more uniform quality and increased productivity. As partner to a dynamic textile industry, Groz-Beckert continuously invests in the development of new products. Combined with technical support, Groz-Beckert optimizes the carding process and provides clear answers to current issues in the Carding industry.

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2016

,1',$ ,70( )2&86 In the product area of Sewing, Groz-Beckert will highlight its special application needle SANÂŽ 5, a proven performer for working with technical textiles. The improved SANÂŽ 5.2, which meets the more demanding requirements in the area of technical textiles, boasts a unique geometry. The thread guide, for instance, has been improved for both linear as well as multi-directional sewing processes by the double groove in the point. Moreover the SANÂŽ 5.2 has an additional scarf chamfer on the left side, which ensures more secure loop formation.

Another Sewing highlight of the fair will be the Groz-Beckert Customer Portal. This continuously expanding knowledge platform makes available comprehensive information on sewing technology and many details on sewing products from Groz-Beckert â&#x20AC;&#x201C; round

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catalog to quickly and reliably look up products.

Groz-Beckert will also be presenting its new quality management Ideal Needle Handling (INH), for the sewing industry. It involves a patented process that allows trouble-free and time-sav-

ing handling of broken and damaged sewing machine needles in running operation. The process supports customers in complying

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Tufting, Carding and Sewing. The family-owned company, founded in 1852, employed about 7,800 people and generated a turnover of about â&#x201A;Ź628 million in 2015. Groz-Beckert is active with agencies, production and distribution subsidiaries in more than 150 countries around the world.

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tops height measuring device y y y y

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cut needed Helps enhance life of tops, maintain consistency of card sliver & reduce wastage

One of the oldest Indian manufacturer and exporter of card clothing and card room accessories, ICC Ltd is showcasing its award winning â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tops Height Measuringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (THM) device, an innovative â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;On Cardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; technology, to solve uncertainty and a pain area faced by spinners in the carding department at the upcoming ITME India in hall H1, stall D - 26.

The THM, which has been developed by ICCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own research & development team, is a well thought and engineered device, which

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November 2016

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THM can also be used to know the distortion in tops due to change in production rate, raw material and settings. In addition to this, the THM can avoid excessive cylinder wear out on account of

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which often shortens the life of the tops and result in inconsistency in quality output, as the industry still does not have proper equip

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results in reduced cylinder wire life and poor quality. ICC, understood the need and developed the THM to address this problem,â&#x20AC;?

Mr Mahale informed.

About ICC Ltd: ICC Ltd is the only card clothing and card room accessories manufacturer, which caters to the need for processing of both, short as

ICC as a valuable solution provider for all their carding needs. For over 60 years, ICC is providing its services to spinning mills, enabling them to achieve consistency in quality.

For more information please visit http://cardindia.com/content/ site.htm

23

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InspirOn to show advanced textile stenter Motex 15000 with new features y y y

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The Motex 15000 also achieves consistent and reproducible results across the length and width of the fabric, even with larger overfeed adjustment range up to 80%. It ensures higher stretch, irrespective of the higher GSM of the fabric and is equipped with pin

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The stenter requires lubrication once a year or even later, while

manual through GUI. Its higher squeezing capability ensures opti-

ish with desired add on, resulting in better productivity. It comes equipped with a Tilting Trough with optimised capacity to reduce drain losses.

Inspiron has also recently unveiled a R&D Centre near Ahmedabad, which will undertake sustainable development projects to produce products of the best quality, innovative and user friendly technology, to meet and preferably surpass customer expectations.

Attached to the R&D Centre is also an Incubation Centre, which is equipped with a Demo Stenter for mills to undertake trails and test out their unique ideas, while also validating them under actual working conditions, before venturing into commercial production.

The Incubation Centre is equipped with a laboratory, library and conference cum training room and is manned by a team of process technologists and design professionals.

The vision behind setting up the R&D Centre as well as the In Â&#x201C; ­

tomer; and demonstration of new features and / or standardisation of process parameters for various substrate on customer request.

emerging needs of customers and identifying newer scopes for R&D, while also providing services related to process optimisation assignment, technical consultation, performance evaluation, etc.

About InspirOn Engineering Private Limited: InspirOn Engineering Private Limited, is a family business with long drawn textile engineering expertise of serving glocal markets. InspirOn was set up in 1973 and quickly established itself as a key player in the segments it operates in. Today the company has strong roots in manufacturing of

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For more information please visit http://www.inspiron.co.in/ stenter/

Itema exhibits latest innovations in airjet and rapier weaving technology Colzate (Italy) and Mumbai (India) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Itema, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest privately held provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services, has prepared an impressive product line-up for India ITME 2016 in Mumbai on December 3-8, 2016.

Itema, will leverage this prominent stage to demonstrate its strong commitment to the Indian and neighboring markets, both in terms of advanced, superior weaving technology and real time,

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November 2016

,1',$ ,70( )2&86 extended warranty.â&#x20AC;?

Itema at India ITME 2016 During India ITME, Itema will exhibit 5 weaving machines in its booth and one rapier machine with Jacquard application in Stäubli booth. Moreover, the Company will highlight the strong advantages of its original spare parts in a dedicated corner, which will be of great interest for many weavers who have installed both the latest Itema machines and the previous Sulzer, Somet and Vamatex models.

Rapier Weaving Machines Exhibition visitors will have the chance to see live the most successful rapier machine in recent history, the Itema R9500. With a solid installed base in more than 50 Countries and the widest range of fabrics produced, the Itema rapier R9500 is nowadays the industry benchmark for versatility and superior textile performances. The R9500 on show during India ITME will display a high-end shirting fabric, featuring the latest technological advancements

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Airjet Weaving Machines On the airjet technology side, three machines will be on display,

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The A9500 featuring a bed sheeting style, will run with the latest improvements designed to excel in this market, meeting weaversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; requirements of widest versatility and substantial cost savings.

The brand-new Full Width Reed Tuckers guarantee weavers the

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Brush Lycra Clamp â&#x20AC;&#x201C; nozzle to weave elastic weft yarns. Thanks to the BLC nozzle, the weft is held without movable parts to ensure superior fabric quality and reliability. The Itema iREEDÂŽ - already a

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Itema CEO, Mr Carlo Rogora, commented: â&#x20AC;&#x153;India ITME 2016 is for Itema the perfect stage to show our Customers our best-in

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To learn more about Itemaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s technological innovations, make sure to visit ITEMA Stand @ India ITME 2016: Hall 6, Booth B1.

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ITEMA WEAVING MACHINES AT India ITME 2016 IN PARTNER BOOTHS: Stäubli (Hall 6, Booth D1): â&#x20AC;˘ Rapier R9500 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 190 cm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Furnishing

N. SCHLUMBERGER to show world-leading wool spinning technologies y y y y

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World leader in manufacturing of textile machinery dedicated

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its leading and latest technologies at the forthcoming ITME India show to be held in Mumbai in Hall 1A, Booth H1R4.

Machineries on show from the France based company include the GC40 chain gills, GN8 intersecting drawing machine, ERA 40 combing machine and the new range of worsted and semi-worsted cards.

25

,1',$ ,70( )2&86 The GC40 chain gill is a high performance drafter with speeds of up to 600 metre per minute, while offering high productivity and ~

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timal textile control at high speeds and has a high cleaning system and comes with a drafting head with a light moving assembly.

There are 2x60 numbers of fallers and pinning is

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pins. It has a nip distance of between 32 to 65 mm, with delivery speed of up to 600 metres per minute. The machine has drafts between 3-12 and total installed power of 12.8 - 15.6 kW and auto leveller range of +20 to -30%.

The machine needs low maintenance costs, thanks to an optimised mechanical design and is very user-friendly when considering man/machine dialogue. It is also possible to do telediagnosticâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of the machine, which is available as an option.

The new range of worsted and semi-worsted cards are adaptable for wool between 17 and 33 Îź. They incorporate a progressive

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and also an integrated suction and also with a possibility of input auto leveller.

The cards come with high power for removing burr and have a

low â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Inactive angleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, for a high material yield. The high productivity is based particularly on swift high speed; optimal use of the carding surfaces and working widths up to 3.5 metres.

In the ERA 40 combing machine, progressive combing is achieved by a circular comb pinned over 360° and turning at a constant speed by producing tops, featuring new quality standards. It has precise and recordable adjustments, ensuring consistent high

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Â&#x201D; cies of more than 50 kg per hour for 21/22 Îź wool. Adjustments of the nip distance and other parameters are possible from the machine screen or remote, without stopping the machine.

The GN8 intersecting drawing machine has been designed and developed on a new intersecting based on the latest design of the chain gill drive, combined with the universal drafting head of GN

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About N. SCHLUMBERGER: N.SCHLUMBERGER has over 200 years of expertise and a repu

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Rabatex lines-up impressive weaving preparatory technologies y y y y y

equipments High speed Sample Warping Machine suitable for yarn range between 5 to 500 Tex Sectional Warping Machine has user friendly advance software & data management Single End Sizing Machine produces sized yarn of the highest quality

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Ahmedabad based Rabatex Industries has lined-up the latest and innovative weaving preparatory technologies including battery operated as well as manual material handling and storage equipments, including accessories like creels for technical textiles applications at the upcoming India ITME exhibition in Hall 6, Stall No. H6D8.

Among its various technologies, Rabatex will showcase the High Speed Sample Warper, Sectional Warper Machine, Single End Sizing Machine; Battery operated Warp Beam Carrier with Heald

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for technical textiles at ITME India.

The Rabatex high speed Sample Warping Machine model RI 6001 is primarily for production of samples and short production warp at very high production rate. The RI 6001 has a robustly constructed warping drum, suitable up to widths of 2400 mm and for warping lengths between 21 and 450 metres (depending on thread density) and suitable for yarn range from 5 to 500 Tex. The RI 6001 comes with a heavy duty rotational creel with a maximum creel capacity of 16 colours and is suitable of attaining maximum speeds of up to 1,200 metres per minutes.

The Rabatex Sectional Warping Machine RI 112 is a state-ofthe-art technology which produces high quality warp beams with

26

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2016

,1',$ ,70( )2&86 higher productivity. The RI 112 comes with user friendly advance

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breakages and also loss end memory control.

The ergonomically designed Single End Sizing Machine RI 8001

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The Rabatex Battery operated Warp Beam Carrier with Heald frame support VM 5003 is Beam Gaiting Trolley with a robust structure for lifting of beam with harness, dropper and heald frame. The VM 5003 comes with a battery operated hydraulic power pack unit, transportation module with battery life for continuous working of 8 hours. Â&#x2018; #

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textiles sector like Polybeamer with unrolling creel and creels for

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# ment, etc. â&#x20AC;&#x153;All our technologies, including those on display at ITME India are very robust and so require very less maintenance. We have developed these technologies through our in-house R&D team and go through rigorous tests before launching in the market,â&#x20AC;? Mr Haresh Panchal, Managing Director of Rabatex Industries said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The various accessories that are used in our machines are sourced from renowned multinational suppliers like Siemens, Mitsubishi, Danfoss, Allen Bradley etc, which also ensures that the machines or equipment we market, are long lasting and trouble free,â&#x20AC;?

Mr Panchal added.

About Rabatex Industries: Set up in 1962, the vision and mission of Rabatex has always been to develop advanced technology textile machinery through

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state-of-the-art machinery or equipment. This has resulted in acceptance of Rabatex technologies across major textile hubs like UK, Russia, Syria, Uzbekistan, Spain, Turkey, Egypt, El Salvador, Brazil, Nigeria, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, UAE, Yemen, Vietnam, Ethiopia, Chad, Kenya, Tanzania, Mauritius, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Indonesia and Ukraine.

For more information please visit http://www.rabatex.com/

Â&#x2013; < \ Â&#x153;@ 9 Â?K) Z ; focus in weaving machinery componentsâ&#x20AC;Ś..

With exponential growth in the weaving segment over last few years, there is growing demand for quality spares for these machines. OEMs do cater to most of the demand, but textile mills look out for an alternate source of supply. Identifying an opportunity in this segment, Sanjay Plastics has developed a comprehensive rangeof rubber and plastic components for weaving machines. To addstrength to its product portfolio,the group started NK Temples in 2011 to manufacture temple for weaving machines. Together, SanjayPlastics and NK Temples cater to the large requirement of spares in the replacement market for weaving machines.

The company specializes in making spare parts for weaving machines loomlike projectile machinery, air jet looms, rapier looms, namely,Sulzer, Picanol, Toyota, Tsudakoma, Dornier, Somet, Vamatex, Panter,Muller Loom, Staubli Dobby spare parts, Weft FeederAccumulator IRO ROJ spares accessories,Heald frame Parts &accessories,our Imported parts segment having all type electronic spare parts for all types weaving looms, dobby, electronicjacquard etc.

Started in 1970, Sanjay Plastics initially manufactured spares for the spinning segment. The company was quick to identify the future demand for quality components in the weaving segment and shifted focus in weaving.

Today, It has e established a fully equipped manufacturing facilitywith Rubber, Plastic& CNC Machines at Kota in Rajathanto manufacture a comprehensive range of plastic, rubber & metal parts forweaving machines. All the component are designed and manufacturedin-housesays Mr. Ravindra Agarwal, Director, Sanjay Plastics.

Sanjay Plastics product range also includes Projectile Brake lin-

November 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

ing for PU Loom, Tw11 Loom,PS Loom, P7100 Loom, HarnessRoller Spacing Rings, Switch Element, Traction Element, IndexingArm, Guide Tooth Block, Staubli Dobby 12/16/20/24/28 shaft electro magnetBar, Picking lever, Scissors cam plate, Temple Roller dummy rings,Warp stop motion bracket, Projectile Guide insert, Leno Bobbin,Jacquard comber board, Puller and Pusher, Weft Feeder Accumulator winding disc, Solenoid valve plunger and many more products.

NK Temples was set up in 2011 for manufacturing temples that go into weaving machines. The company has set up a modern stateof-the-art manufacturing unit with latest technology machines and rubber and plastic injection moulding machines. Currently the company is catering to the aftermarket, but it is already in discussion with all major machinery manufacturers for OEM supplies. The company currently has capacity to manufacture 200 set, which is 400 temples per day.

Sanjay Plastics and NK Temples are also major exporters of weaving components to Bangladesh, Pakistan Sri Lanka, Turkey, Kenya, Nigeria, Mexico, Peru, Spain, Canada, Mauritius, Indonesia, Thailand, South Africa, Brazil, Italy, and France. Currently the company is supplying components directly to end user customers in these markets and plans to appoint distributors in these regions shortly. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We want to become a one-stop-shop for plastic, rubber , metal components and temples. We keep developing new components based on customer requirements. In a month we develop almost QX

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marked among the top suppliers worldwide in term of quality and performanceâ&#x20AC;?, says Mr. Agarwal.

Sanjay plastics along with NK Temples and other group companies, has a turnover of 10-15 Crore

27

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Italian SANTEX RIMAR GROUP partakes in ITME India with all its brands Italian SANTEX RIMAR GROUP partakes in ITME India with all its brands SMIT markets rapier weaving machines ^Â&#x2020;Â? Ă&#x192;

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both woven and knitted fabrics CAVITEC supplies machines for coating, laminating and impregnating composites

ISOTEX provides coating, embossing and printing machines for synthetic leather, tarpaulins and airbags SANTEX NONWOVENS markets thermobonding solutions ^ÂŤÂ&#x2018;Â&#x2014;Â&#x2020;

SANTEX RIMAR GROUP, which has more than 100 years of history and also more than 10,000 customers all around the world, is participating in the upcoming ITME INDIA trade show in Hall 5, Stall B13 together with its brands SMIT, SANTEX, SPEROTTO RIMAR, CAVITEC, ISOTEX, SANTEX NONWOVENS and SOLWA. ^]" #

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machines with rapier weft insertion for home textiles, garments, terry cloths and customized solutions to produce special technical fabrics. SMIT SMART PLATFORM is a structural architecture concept involving the whole machine project, from mechanics and electronics to communication systems and in the process, provides the most advantageous weaving opportunities and high levels of versatility. ^Â&#x2020;Â? Ă&#x192;

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machines for treatment of open width knitted fabrics, Santex offers; SANTASHRINK PROGRESS, an integrated treatment system for shrinkage; SANTASHRINK JUMBO and SUPER JUMBO for tensionless drying, shrinking and relaxing; ESC: ENERGY SAVING CHAMBER for optimised drying through green textile process; SANTACOMPACT RD for levelling, steaming and compacting calander and SANTASYNPACT also for levelling, steaming and compacting.

For the treatment of tubular knitted fabrics, the SANTEX portfolio includes; SANTASHRINK for tensionless drying, shrinking and relaxing; SANTASPREAD for steaming and compacting of tubular fabrics and SANTASTRETCH for dewatering and overstretching/wet onimpregnation.

SPEROTTO RIMAR is known for being a leading innovator and

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^Â&#x2039; |OTTO RIMAR markets DECOFAST 3.5 for continuous decatizing process under pressure; FIXA for wool crabbing in continuous by overheated water under pressure; MULTIDECAT, a continuous decatizing machine; NOVA, a continuous solvent scouring machine; Â&#x2039;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2020;Â?Â&#x2020;

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Â&#x2DC;Â?"VERSA for vaporizing fabrics without tension.

CAVITEC is a premier supplier of machines and plants for coating, laminating and impregnating for composite products for aerospace, automotive, wind-power industries and for the resin impreg

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CAVITEC technologies include; HOTMELT for coating and laminating; CAVIMELT, which is a rotogravure system; CAVI2COAT for multifunctional coating and laminating; CAVIFLEX, a hotmelt laminating machine with exchangeable coating modules; CAVIMELT Â&#x2039;Â&#x2039;

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machines for synthetic leather, airbags and other technical applications. Its products line-up includes ISOBAG for air-bags, ISOBELT for conveyor belts; ISOLAB for pilot lines; ISORUBBER for rubbercoating fabrics; ISOSKIN for coating synthetic leather; ISOWEAR

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technical use; ISOTACK, a solution system for self-adhesive materi

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SANTEX NONWOVENS markets thermobonding solutions for applications like home textiles, hygienic and medical, geotextiles, automotive and industrial products. The unique air guiding system of Santex ovens guarantees highest production performance, uniform quality productions and constant temperature at minimal energy consumption.

SOLWA represents the green innovative technologies divi #

Technologies from SOLWA have won awards from several global organisations, like the United Nations and the European Union.

Technologies from the division include; DRYWA, which is an integrated system for drying sewage sludge and SOLWA, a system to treat polluted or sea water with solar energy.

Textechno Textechno at the ITME India 2016 in Mumbai At the ITME India 2016 in Mumbai, TEXTECHNO Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG (Germany) will

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COVAFIL+ with its new capacitive sensor design and a high-speed yarn twister achieves all re~

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concept to operate the COVAFIL+ either as a stand-alone unit or

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November 2016

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relevant yarn parameters can be determined with one test system only.

For determining the number of interlaces Textechno has developed the Interlace and Interlace Stability Tester ITEMAT+ TSI as the successor of the well-known ITEMAT by Enka tecnica. While the basic principle was kept the same, drives and electronics have been replaced by state-of-theart technology and the mechanical interlace sensor has been completely re-designed to serve a larger linear-density range at better reproducibility.

STATIMAT ME+ represents the new generation of the Textechno automatic tensile testers for yarns.

Textechnoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Cotton Control Lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is widened by several new in

and strength tester FIBROTEST, the Micronair Station FMT, as well

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MDTA 4, now available from Textechno.

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and carbon. The test process can be fully automated by means of the AIROBOT2 system linked to the FAVIMAT+. The AIROBOT2 sys-

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to the FAVIMAT+ testing instrument without using pretensioningweights. TEXTECHNOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s solution for those customers, who need a

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the FAVIGRAPH. Textechno establishes a new department for composite testing

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FIMATEST system and the drapability of fabrics and NCFs for composites with DRAPETEST. Through our services you gain easy access to award winning testing technology. Please ask us.

We are pleased to welcome you in Hall 1, booth B26\ Contact: M/s. World Traders Mfg. Co. 1413, Maker Chambers V Q_ '

Nariman Point Mumbai - 400 021 India Tel: 0091 22 22843423/ 22872935 Fax: 0091 22 22872534 E-Mail: info@ wtmcindia.com Website: www.wtmcindia.com

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ÂŤ & Rapier looms Rapier Head coating technology enables reusing heads translating into high savings

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TumKalip Aparat, a Turkish manufacturer of spare parts for new generation of European make weaving machines since the last 30 years, will be showing its range of quality spare parts at ITME India in hall 6 , stall no. D-11. TumKalip will also be promoting its high-tech coating technology for used Rapier Heads, like TiO2 and TC also called tungsten carbide coatings.

TumKalip produces and markets spares for Projectile looms, Rigid Rapier looms and Flexible Rapier looms. It will be exhibiting a wide range of spares,especially for new generation models of Projectile looms; Rapier Heads for Positive Rapier machines; and a new product line of Flexible Rapier loom spare parts.

TumKalip also recoats old Rapier Heads through its hi-tech coating technology, thereby assuring an extended life for the old Rapier heads, translating into high cost savings for Rapier machine users.

The recoated Rapier Heads can be used again, instead of buying and replacing old ones with new heads.

TumKalip, which was working through agents till now in India,

November 2016

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has recently setup its Indian subsidiary, TumKalip India Pvt Ltd, to

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For producing high quality spare parts, TumKalip uses the best in market raw materials, and utilises the latest technologies in its production process. Since, the company itself produces and markets its products; it has full control over the quality of its products }Ă&#x2020;}

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Apart from Turkey, TumKalip weaving machine spares are sold in several regions and countries like Europe, India, USA, Canada, Brazil, Argentina, Guatemala, Pakistan, Egypt, Japan, Iran, Nepal and Sri Lanka to name a few. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have been producing best quality spare parts for European make weaving machines since the last 30 years. This deep experience and use of high quality raw materials help us to deliver spares of impeccable quality to our customers across the world,â&#x20AC;? Mr. AakeshBhongade, Director at TumKalip India Pvt Ltd said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The setting up of the wholly owned subsidiary will help us

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strength of the quality of its products, TumKalip believes in striking long-term partnerships and not just one time sales with its clients,â&#x20AC;?

Mr.Bhongade added. { Z ) ;> TumKalip Aparat is a Turkish manufacturer of spares for advanced European make weaving machines since the last 30 years.

The company produces high-quality spare parts for Projectile looms, Rigid Rapier Looms and Flexible Rapier looms. It also offers service of recoating of old Rapier Heads, thereby extending the service life of the Rapier Heads. Its products are sold in several countries across the world. please visit www.tumkalip.com.tr

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by VANDEWIELE brands on ITME India 2016 VANDEWIELE will showcase all his latest technologies in a common booth in Hall 6 stall D9. ÂŤ

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FLOOR, HOME, TECHNICAL and FASHION, all the brands will show their latest developments.

VAN DE WIELE will show all the new trends into carpet and velvet weaving, as the great handlook quality in reed density up to 1200 dents/meter and 8 colours. Numerous samples of all kind of

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they can be made. The latest RCE (Rug and Carpet Expert) carpet weaving machines are equipped with fully free programmable smart frames and electronical jacquards with a new patented selection system, which gives the weaver big advantages such as easy

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Figure 1: The RCE Rug & Carpet Expert Carpet weaving machine The new high-density velvets developed in multiple colours are also an eye-catching item, which is very well appreciated by the Indian public. Due to the new SiV jacquard range, all possible velvet applications can be made easier than before.

Based on the successful Velvet Smart Innovator Van de Wiele has created an extensive range of fast face-to-face weaving machines for various applications: y ÂŽ ^

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velvet with a density over 2000 dents/m y Velvet Smart Innovator 3 m weaving width in plain and dobby execution, for curtain velvet and technical fabrics y Velvet Smart Innovator for long pile applications: for 2 x 40 mm pile height: for imitation fur or technical brush and cleaning fabrics y Velvet Smart Innovator for technical fabrics: in execution for spacer fabrics or multilayer fabrics y Velvet Smart Innovator for jacquard velvet and light carpets (also on 3 m width): with Smart Frames for the ground fabric and SiV jacquard for the pile, or all yarns on SiV jacquard. The SiV jacquard is a new jacquard with the compact microselector, and allows even semi on-loom installation (no separate gantry needed).

VANDEWIELE extrusion will show their presentations about

30

the BXE-line for carpet yarns.This extrusion line produces yarn from

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newly developed multiwrap texturing device without lamellas. The short melt pipe between the extruder and the spinning beam and the round self-sealing spin packs, which are easy to install, are very much appreciated in the market.

The tufting brand COBBLE-VANDEWIELE will demonstrate with new demo material the latest trends and possibilities.

After the successful introduction of the Myriad in ITMA2015 and the success of the customers with this technology in house, CobbeVan de Wiele is proud to announce the TUFTFX-L and the TUFTFX-C. The TUFTFX-L

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control. Each yarn is individually controlled through the individual pile delivery system to achieve an unlimited number of pile heights. Â&#x;

endless number of colour shades are created for tufting tiles, area rugs, wall-to-wall carpet and pictures.

The simple, lightweight and compact Level Cut Loop mechanism on the TUFTFX-C allows combining cut pile and loop pile. Combined with sliding needle bar and Myriad attachment, a big variety

To maximize the design possibilities, the TuftLink software has been developed. This software allows changing and creating very easy designs by working in separate layers for artistic design, pile heights, colours... This easy change is not possible with the traditional software now available on the market.

Due to the knowledge of the yarn treatments of SUPERBA, you

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in some markets.Superba has developed a unique and performing heat-setting system based on saturated steam. With 40 years of >

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woven carpet, Superba is providing advanced and competitive solutions with a complete range of machines, including space dyeing machines.

BONASwill show his latest new Â&#x2013; Â&#x17E;

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time in India. Ji is based on the successful and proven technology of the Si. During the ITME a Ji 2 with 2688 hooks will be on display on a Picanol double width rapier.

The Ji has the advantage that it is equipped with a dwell allowing a better and longer insertion time for wide rapier machines.

Also the range of the Si jacquards is extended to 27.648 hooks in a single machine, making this range the widest of all jacquards.

Already dozens of Si over 20.000 hooks in a single machine are sold worldwide.

VANDEWIELE, inspired by expertise We imagine, build and integrate innovative textile systems for '

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Sharing inspiration and expertise with our customers worldwide, we shape the textile industry of the future. Creating success for

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November 2016

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Rotorcraft stands for Swiss Innovations in Spinning Technology.

At ITME India 2016, Rotorcraft will again show new developments which embody the operating principles of all of our products: ? < ; <

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will be introduced: Next Generation Spinning (NGSÂŽ). This frame meets all the requirements of a 21st century mill. Itsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; features and

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¨ - To avoid setting errors of any kind, all setting screws are omitted.

- Setting of the drafting systems is achieved by the use of ex

- The distance between the drafting system and the spinning ring remains constant.

- Bottom aprons are replaceable individually while the frame is running.

- A low-pressure channel is built in between the working elements

the suction tubes as well as the low-pressure elements for pneumatic compact spinning.

- The two sides of the frame work independently.

- All bearings of the working elements are sealed for life.

- Ring frames with 2â&#x20AC;&#x2122;000 spindles without the use of an additional drive for bottom rollers at the midpoint of the frame become possible.

- Equalized tension and evenness of yarn at a constant production speed go along with either better quality or a higher overall output.

The next generation of Compact Spinning Systems â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Green Compact (pat. pend.) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; attains the yarn quality improvements in

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ing 6-8 â&#x201A;Ź per spindle per year. It therefore performs considerably more economically and sustainably compared to old generation compacting systems.

The new top arm RT3 (pat. pend.) has been optimized in its de

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Rotorcraft looks forward to welcoming an international audience to our ITME India booth H1b A5.

TEXTILE MACHINERY:FOREIGN ORDERS ON THE RISE FOR THIRD QUARTER 2016. ITALYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DOMESTIC MAR)?Z 8 Q K The orders index for textile machinery recorded an increase for

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However, this growth applied to foreign markets only, where the index recorded an absolute value of 112.3 points (+20% compared to July - September 2015). In Italy, the index stood at 48 #

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Â&#x201C; li. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Here too in Shanghai, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve met many entrepreneurs who want to invest; and not just the Chinese.â&#x20AC;? The trade fair closed with over 100,000 visitors, fully 20% of which hailed from abroad.

On the other hand, the situation in Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s domestic market ap

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The order intake has declined after two consecutive quarters of growth,â&#x20AC;? observes Carabelli. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re

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November 2016

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# $ & ' ( )*+/ & & ' need to invest

31

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Savio @ITMA ASIA+CITME 2016 exhibition in China

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exhibition will bring together the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading textile technology manufacturers from 21st to 25th October 2016 at the new National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) in Shanghai. At Hall 1 booth B28, Savio will exhibit breakthrough innovations in the winding segment: the new Eco PulsarS automatic winder, the drumless Multicone technology and well-proven Polar winding machine. All machines represent high-end and niche products with important technological content. â&#x20AC;˘Eco PulsarS, a quantum leap forward in automatic winding; â&#x20AC;˘the drumless thread guide Multicone technology; â&#x20AC;˘the Polar winder, well-proven and best-selling in traditional standard winding platform.

Eco PulsarS After the world premiere at ITMA Milan 2015, attracting a lot of attention from customers, Eco PulsarS will be showcased in China

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up to 30% power bill, reduce yarn waste, air conditioning costs & noise inside the spinning room. Energy is a major cost component

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fuel and electricity, have caused soaring costs in the process, thus reduced the competiveness of textile products in some domestic markets, where imported products may be cheaper. Suction represents 75% of the total energy of a winding machine.

EcoPulsarSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s solution of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;individual and independent suction unit per spindleâ&#x20AC;? represents a real break-through versus the conventional system. Each unit operates at optimum suction values

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" # ent suction systems are provided to the auxiliary devices for fully automatic machines. This means no more compromises in balancing the suction as in conventional centralized systems, in which the fan is permanently in operation. Since suction is generated only when needed, customer can save up to 30% power bill costs, while

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rior package and yarn quality are achieved too. EcoPulsarS combining all new features and design has created an environment in which each part of the machine can operate at its optimum level. Spindles and bobbins feeding systems set independently the level of suction required. Suction is generated as needed and used without losses.

The new Controlled Cut System, Yarn Tension Control System, Waste Collection&Separation System and Upgraded Splicing Solutions, each contributing to the overall reduction of process downtimes. Eco PulsarS, with its sustainable eco-green advantage, replies to the market demand of energy saving, together with improved production performances, high quality packages and ut ' > Multicone technology Savioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thread-guide technology, Multicone (drumless), repre-

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tion, for an easy and fast change in the winding process to prepare

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in terms of geometry, edges shape and density. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Multiconeâ&#x20AC;? system represents today the proper solution to achieve this kind of ' >

Savioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thread guide electronic control allows to set winding angle, traverse stroke, position on the package tube and the yarn distribution over the package. All above improves design and formation of the package, optimizing all the downstream processes, thus allowing customers to obtain the best results. The user can interact with a visual interface on the PC screen for drawing the

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age diameters. The user is able to customize and tailor the package design, according to his requirements for the downstream process.

Polar winding machine The Polar winder is absolutely the Savio bestseller in the traditional standard winding platform. It is Savioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well proven and the bestselling automatic winder, still the #1 winder in many world markets. All Polar models (manual feeding, stand-alone autofeeding, automatic link feeding) represent the utmost technology available.

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vo controls to boost performance. This state- of-the-art machine has been designed keeping in mind the demands of our customers in terms of increased productivity, reduced energy consumption, reduced waste and production of yarn package of top high quality. Further emphasis has been given to realize machines friendly use and almost maintenance free for any type of working environments. All POLAR models (manual feeding, automatic feeding free standing, and automatic link) represent the utmost technology available: the previous success of the mechanical models has been followed by the last generation of the fully controlled electronic one.

About SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI SPA Founded in Pordenone, North East of Italy, in 1911 by entrepreneur Marcello Savio as a workshop for the production of textile components for the local industry, Savio is today the leader

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manufacturing and marketing of automatic winders, heat-setting winders, two-for-one twisters, and rotor spinning machines with factories in Italy, Czech Republic, China and India.A continuous evolution, that set its roots one century ago, with the talent and skills of Marcello Savio, evolved then through the years by taking as points of reference Research & Development, highest manufacturing ' >

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www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2016

VISIT US AT INDIA ITME Hall 5 Booth C 13B

YOUR PARTNER FOR WEAVING, TEXTILE FINISHING, TECHNICAL TEXTILE, NONWOVENS AND GREEN SOLUTIONS

www.santexrimar.com

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North Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s EXCLUSIVE Textile Machineries & Accessories Exhibition

6th edition

EXPO- 2017

PANIPAT Anaaj Mandi, G T Road Panipat ( Haryana )

2017 17, 18 & 19 March

Great Things Come to those who Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait Think for growth, Think for Panipat,

Organiser

Essential Events & Trade Fairs ( An ISO 9001 -2008 certified company )

Rajesh Sinha Pravin Khandagale 09324077881 08898473888

Ajit Srivastav Deepak Sharma 08527133520 08933929292

mktg.essential@gmail.com, www.essentialtradefairs.com

Sponsor

Media Partners

Knowledge partner

Design Studio

Comference

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Spin Finish Oils For Polyester POY & FDY For Nylon POY & FDY For PP BCF & MFY For Various Fibers ( Tailor Made )

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in mln â&#x201A;Ź

Total Value of Import

4 652,00

100% Cotton Fabrics (CN 5208 - 5512)

in mln â&#x201A;Ź

100% in Chemical mln â&#x201A;Ź Filamentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fabrics (CN 5407 - 5408)

100% Chemical Cutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fabrics (CN 5512 5516)

in mln â&#x201A;Ź

306,29

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178,59

148,53

Total Value of Import 1. UE

128,12

1.

UE

88,21

39,3

2. China

113,81

2.

China

62,10

China

17,44

3. Turkey

31,61

3.

Turkey

13,36

4.

Pakistan

15,46

4. Korea

10,42

4.

Pakistan

6,37

5.

Uzbekistan

5,9

5. India

2,93

5.

India

1,55

India

1,2

6. Others

19,40

Total Value of Import

242,15

1.

UE

2.

Turkey

3.

1.

China

1 539,20

6.

2.

UE

1 154,20

7. Others

3.

Bangladesh

699,90

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Turkey

348,52

14,32

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Korea

0,93

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Others

6,07

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India

196,34

7.

Cambodia

182,62

8.

Pakistan

107,88

Technical Fabrics (CN 5901 5911) Total Value of Import

in mln â&#x201A;Ź

494,92

Knitted Fabrics (CN 6001 6002) Total Value of Import

in mln â&#x201A;Ź

Home Textiles (CN 6302)

in mln â&#x201A;Ź

230,29

Total Value of Import

176,28

9.

Wietnam

101,88

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UE

321,94

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UE

135,28 1.

Pakistan

44,42

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Indonesia

87,51

2.

China

96,5

2.

Turkey

40,56

2.

UE

43,11

11.

Marocco

12.

Sri Lanka

13.

Others

67,57

3.

Turkey

11,96

3.

China

37,18

3.

China

37,90

107,88

4.

India

11,85

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Korea

5,34

4.

Turkey

16,50

58,50

5.

Korea

10,51

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Egipt

3,88

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India

16,22

6.

Others

42,16

6.

Others

8,05

6.

Bangladesh

15,34

7.

Others

2,79

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68,27

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X

2.

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22,83

Total Value of Import 1. UE

154,13

Total Value of Import 1. UE

18,94

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V S F

10,55

12,86

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