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TEXTLE TESTING UPDATES WASTE WATER MANAGEMENT UPDATES INTERVIEWS Meeta Shinghala, Testtex Lab Kumarvel T., Premier Fine Linen Pratik Gadia, The Yarn Bazar Ronak Rugmani, Anil Rajvanshi - SRTEPC SUSTAINABLE FIBERS : Organic Cotton , Cow Dung MARKET REPORT Yarn Report Surat Report Swatchhta Abhiyan by Textile Committee TEXTILE PARK UPDATE : Hingalghat, MAHi Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 72

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November 2019

DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore November 2019

March 2018

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3 51

YEARS

India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of

Torrey Twister

GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS

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RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLES

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November 2019

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rd INTL. TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION

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5 6 7 8 December 2019 The Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India

DISCOVER PROMISING MARKETS & EXPLORE NEW CUSTOMERS

See the latest textile machinery and technology, experience it first hand

Meet the technical experts from leading textile machinery & technology suppliers, Industry professionals. Discuss business ideas & network

Learn about the trends, developments & opportunities. Share knowledge and fine-tune ideas CONFERENCES & SHOWS: “Sommet-De-Couleur- 2019” By SDC International “World Costume 2019” Fashion Show By ISFT College & Institute Largest Textile Machinery Exhibition of 2019 in India

One of the Top Two Textile Machinery Exhibitions in India

35,000+ Business Visitors from Pan India

30,000+ Sqm of Exhibition Space

Right Exhibition for those who missed ITMA Barcelona ITMACH India assisted in Technology Adoption by Industry, Stimulated Investment

PARTICIPATION FEE

Stall Booking Enquiry:

Shell Scheme: US$ 250 / ` 12,000 per Sq. Meter.

Bare Space: US$ 225 / ` 11,000 per Sq. Meter.

GST applicable 18% Note: Foreign Exhibitors MUST pay Participation Fee in US Dollar

Arvind Semlani: +91 9833977743 | info@ITMACH.com

ORGANISER

MEDIA PARTNERS

SUPPORTING INDUSTRY ASSOCIATIONS

Amey Dangarwala: +91 9375064401 | amey@ITMACH.com

The Ahmedabad Textile Processors’ Association

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November 2019

CONTENT November 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER 13- Organic Cotton Cultivation-A System Approach- By Jayraman A. Kumar 15- Clothing from Cow Dung Fibre- By Dr N. N. Mahapatra

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATE 17- Texting Valuable Part of Entire Value Chain Process- By Niyati Chheda

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INTERVIEW 36- MeetaShinghala – MD, Testtex India Laboratory Pvt. Ltd.

18- Textile Testing and Accreditation of Laboratories In India- By Dr G. S. Nadiger

63- Kumarvel T- Premier Fine Line.

22- COE -PROTECH, NITRA by Dr Arindam Basu, Dr M. S Parmar

66- Mr.RonakRugani, Mr. Anil Rajvanshi, SRTEPC

65- Pratik Gadia- The Yarn Bazaar.

23- COE- GEOTECH- BITRA by VK Patil, SnehalDhamdhere

POST SHOW REPORT

27- COE- Nonwovens- DKTE by AniketBhute

52- Yarn Expo , Shanghai

29- COE SpartechWRAby Dr MrinalChoudhari

MARKET REPORT

41- Importance of Testing by Mr. S.V. Mohile

54- YARN REPORT

TEXTILE PARK

56- Surat Report

31- Reweaving The Fabric of Vidarbha’s Textile Industry ByChandra Bhushan Sharma

61- SWACHHTA ABHIYANN- TEXTILES COMMITTEE

COMPANY UPDATE

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62- SHOW CALENDAR

Advertiser Index

35- Swiss Formulation :Mr D. A. Shah 38- Izabella machiney

Back Page : Raymond

10- ITMACH INDIA

41- Inspection, Folding, Rolling Machine For Grey & Finish Fabric.- By D.S Topiwala

Back Inside :Raysil Front Inside :Rimtex

33- HinganghatIntigrated Textile Park Pvt. Ltd.

WASTE WATER TREATMENT

3- DN Associate

42- Design AndOperation Plants and Water Recovery In India And Bangladesh- By FilppoBriyani

5- Liva Eco

4-Sanjay Plastic

47- Control of Chemicals in GOTS Goods by Sumit Gupta

6- Weaves

48- New Methods Can Reduce Emissions from The Textile Industry by MAY KAHOUSH

7- AGS

51- Hohenstein Releases Quality Lablesfor Workwear

9- Taiwan Pavilion

8- SGCCI

59- INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS by JAIDEEP DUDHBHATE

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Associate Editor Mr. Swaminathan November 2019

34- Swispol 37- TestTEx Lab 39-Izabella machiney 40- D.S Topiwala Enterprises 64- Amith Garment 68- Tuff Plast 69-BTEX 70- Savio

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

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EDITORTIAL PARADIGM SHIFT FROM COMMODITY TO TECHNICAL / SPECIALISED...

‘‘

Paradigm shift from Commodity to Technical / Specialised...

“If you want to know what a man’s like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

’’

― J.K. Rowling,

Macro level, RCEP (Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership) Trade Agreement has been rejected by India as it was not favouring Indian industry interest. Trade Agreement / Bi lateral treaty is for objective of reduce the trade deficit between the country, across the industry. Treaty between countries are strategic decisions made by authority considering natural resources, people mindset/ religion, population, stage of evolvement of country ( Developed, Developing, under Developed), many more factors. India already have approximately 23 % trade deficit combing average of all countries of world.

Micro level, Cotton yield is better in India due to good rainfall this year. CAI Estimated 354.50 lakh bales of 170 kgs.

And Import of 25 lakh bales. This will increase production of cotton fabrics and garments which will increase export.

Textile being commodity industry and without any entry/ education barrier , many people entered in the industry with herd mentality, same products with no differentiation, TUFF , other policy benefits etc. But once policy benefits over, sluggish markets ; industrialist not very keen to go the next level to do research and make some unique products and give different solution to industry. When any industry mindset is only to make money and not to give customer oriented solution, it will result in pain , shut downs.

Few Developed countries, already changed their path from commodity products to Technical Textile products, niche segments though market for these are yet in evolving stage but estimated that next 5 years it will be on growth stage based on people changing lifestyle. Diversification from commodity to niche /unique is the only way to evolve in this sluggish market, As commodities mass production has already captured by Bangladesh, China, Vietnam in Asian Continent.

Hope industry will change mindset from government benefits to research oriented mindset !

Ms. Jigna Shah

Wish you fruitful and Productive Hindu New Year ..!!

Editor and Publisher

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November 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER

ORGANIC COTTON CULTIVATION- A SYSTEM APPROACH JEYARAMAN A. KUMAR Lecturer, Department of Textile Processing Coimbatore, South India.

G.R.G.Polytechnic College

Cotton, the most important fibre crop of India plays a dominant role in its agrarian and industrial economy. It is the backbone of our textile industry, accounting for 70% of total fibre consumption in textile sector, and 38% of the country’s export, fetching over Rs. 42,000 crores.

Area under cotton cultivation in India (8.9 million ha) is the highest in the world, i.e., 25% of the world area and employs seven million people for their living. Organic cotton still only occupies a tiny niche of far less than 1% of global cotton production. However, the number of farms converting to organic cotton and the number of projects is constantly increasing.

There are a number of reasons to grow cotton organically. The negative impacts of conventional cotton farming on the environment and health are obvious and well known. But if you look at the fact that around 60% of the cotton weight harvest is cotton seed that is processed to edible oil and cattle feed, you realize that the bigger part of cotton production enters the human food chain. We also know that the pesticides sprayed on cotton do not only affect the target pest.

to buy their drinking water from outside. In addition, many of the farmers and labourers spraying the pesticides face health problems that cause them to miss a lot of work and have additional costs for medical treatment. There are many cases in India where farmers have even died after applying chemical pesticides.

Central India, many conventional farmers have faced a decline in soil fertility over the past two decades. In some cases the soil got so hard that the farmers had to give up groundnut cultivation. While cotton yields were on the decline, increasing amounts of fertilizers and pesticides were needed to maintain the crop. Declining yields and increasing input costs, in combination with the frequent droughts,

Beneficial insects and other animals are killed, too, so that pests that formerly were of minor importance now have become a major problem (for example, whitefly and aphids). In some areas of Andhra Pradesh the ground water has become so polluted with chemicals that people need

November 2019

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have left many farmers in a debt trap.

When speaking to smallholder organic cotton farmers in developing countries, the following motivations are stated as the most important ones: Market demand for textiles made from organic cotton mainly exists in Europe, the USA, Canada, Japan and Australia. Some large companies become involved with organic cotton textiles in order to improve their corporate image with respect to environmental and social accountability. The main reasons for consumers to buy textiles made out of organic cotton are: To reduce the risk of skin irritation and allergies To protect the environment from toxic chemicals To support sustainable agricultural production in the country where the cotton is grown To ensure that the farmers in developing countries receive a fair price.

Figure 1 Advantage of Organic Cotton

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER

Figure 2 Growing organic cotton – A system approach

Converting a farm to organic production does not simply mean replacing chemical fertilizers and pesticides with organic ones. Organic cotton must be grown in a diverse and balanced farming system that also includes the other crops. Instead of troubleshooting, organic farmers should try to prevent problems and avoid substitutes to conventional inputs as far as possible. This requires

a thorough understanding of nutrient and pest management and the ability to continuously observe and learn.

and maintain soil fertility 2. Establishment of crop rotation and crop diversity; fostering natural balance 3. Selection of varieties suitable to the conditions (soil, availability of irrigation, market requirements) 4. Appropriate types and amounts of manures at the right time 5. Timely crop management such as intercultural operations, weeding and irrigation 6. Careful monitoring of the crop and sufficient protection against pests according to the concept of economic threshold level 7. Timely and proper picking of the cotton 8. Sufficient documentation for inspection and certification

To get satisfactory yields and income in organic cotton farming it is necessary to adopt a number of integrated measures in a system approach, ensuring that the interaction among soil, plants, environment and people is well balanced. The ‘ingredients for success’ all need to be applied together (Figure 2): 1. Suitable measures to improve

REFERENCES

these issues affected the variability of the test results from multiple laboratories around the world. The knowledge gained was used to craft a revised method that now provides the industry with more consistent and uniform test results. Committee member Robert (Bob) Monticello of the International Antimicrobial Council says the changes “will result in a better understanding of the antimicrobial properties of treated articles when directly compared to untreated controls.”

real-world antimicrobial activity on a treated article. We feel that this updated test method will provide better repeatability within laboratories and more importantly, reproducibility between laboratories.”

This revised AATCC TM100-2019 eliminates the variability on many of the critical steps that previously led to variability in test results, even on identical substrate. Monticello says, “This revised method, coupled with other standard protocols, will allow for a much clearer prediction of

Labs can evaluate their performance on antibacterial test methods by participating in the AATCC Proficiency Testing Program. Registration for 2020 rounds will open by October 2019. The Antibacterial Module is distributed in April. Labs must be registered and paid in full by March 1, 2020 to participate.

1.http://www.sustainablecotton.org/ html/growers/growers.html 2.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ File:Organiccotton.jpg 3.www.textileexchange.org 4.www.organiccottondirectory.org 5.www.attra.ncat.org

NEWS RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, N.C., USA, AATCC TM100 is one of the most commonly used test methods to measure antimicrobial activity on treated textiles. This method, developed in the 60’s and updated periodically, has now been updated to more accurately capture the performance of today’s antimicrobials that have a smaller environmental impact. This revised method provides the industry with more consistent and uniform test results.

A diligent and collaborative effort of the members of AATCC RA31 Committee, Antimicrobial Activity, resulted in a revision of AATCC TM100. The Committee looked at the history of method, the common practice at many test laboratories, and spent an extensive amount of time to understand the issues of the test method and how

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AATCC TM100-2019 Is now available for purchase through the AATCC website at: https://members.aatcc.org/ store/tm100/513/ It will also be included in the AATCC 2020 Technical Manual released January 2020.

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November 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER

CLOTHING FROM COW DUNG FIBRE DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

A few years ago, sustainable fashion was a nice-to-have niche. It cropped up in small ranges from big brands that needed some good PR, or earnest and expensive labels touted by celebrities but ignored by most mainstream shoppers.

Not any more. With our growing population and climate change high on any (sane) business leader’s agenda, a fundamental redesign of how fashion is produced, distributed, consumed and recycled is underway.

And that redesign is being led by entrepreneurs with a combination of good style instincts, business smarts and deep tech know-how.

Some of the best can be found amongst the winners of the Global Change Award – an annual, global innovation challenge for disruptive early ideas on how to make the fashion industry self-sustaining, or ‘circular’.

Launched in 2015 by the non-profit H&M Foundation, in collaboration with Accenture and KTH Royale Institute of Technology, the most recent Award received close to 3,000 ideas from 130 countries. There are lot of new fibres in the market. One of these is discussed here.

Circular economy is all about eliminating waste in the value chain. To most people, cow manure is pretty much the ultimate definition of ‘waste’ – and a disgusting one as well.

Mestic, based in the Netherlands, wants to change that perception by developing a process to turn cow

November 2019

pats into quality textiles.

As cow manure contains large portions of cellulose, it is possible to extract raw material from it that can be transformed into a biodegradable garment. Farming and cows are linked to several environmental issues, such as methane gas production and oversaturation of the soil.

Through Mestic’s innovative solution some of these issues are addressed and turned into positive impact.

We all know Cow waste is a global environmental issue.

Dutch designer JalilaEssaïdi has developed a new material using cow dung. In the Netherlands, where Essaïdi is based, the livestock industry last year exceeded its phosphate ceiling by 4.6 million kg by producing excess manure. Since phosphate and nitrogen compounds in manure can be harmful to the soil, water and air, there were proposals to limit the number of cows. That’s when the designer came up with an innovative solution.

The way manure is thought of may change soon. An Eindhoven designer has developed a technology with which manure can be immediately transformed into bioplastic, biopaper and biotextile.

Designer JalilaEssaïdi pursued the project titled Mestic with her BioArt Laboratories as a way of addressing the global manure surplus, which is responsible for excessive amounts

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of harmful phosphorus and nitrogen in surface and groundwater. Essaïdi, who is known for her work ‘2.6g 329m/s’, also known as ‘Bulletproof Skin’, a project that achieved bioengineered bulletproof human skin reinforced with synthetic spider silk, began working on the project last year.

In late 2015, BioArt Laboratories was approached by the agricultural sector of Noord-Brabant, a province in the southern region of the Netherlands, to find an immediate and innovative solution to the surplus cow manure that was being produced there. Essaïdi’s organisation, within a few months, developed a method and technology to solve this problem by transforming cow manure directly into bioplastics. The solution was called Mestic, a portmanteau of the Dutch word for manure, mest, and plastic.

In June this year, Essaïdi and her team organised a fashion show featuring Mestic-derived fabrics, with support from the municipality of Eindhoven, SunaProducties, Inspidere, and Eindhoven 365. The show and the products were a resounding success. The result is that Mestic is now being projected as a circular solution that will not only solve the present cow manure problem, but will also provide a sustainable source of biomaterials to the manufacturing industry, textiles included. However exceptional this already sounds, this is not where it ends. According to Essaïdi, the possibilities are infinite.

Essaïdi elaborates on how the project started: “For another project, they were trying to collaborate with both the Dutch Federation of Agriculture and Horticulture and the province.

At that time the political climate surrounding the Dutch manure problem was such an obstacle that they jokingly told that this would only hap-

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER pen if we could solve their manure problem. That’s the day they picked up their first batch of manure.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS ; “Initially they didn’t set out to make a fibre ,their goal was to create cellulose acetate by directly pulping and acetylating the available cellulose in manure. A logical next step was to spin this into a fibre.”

As far as the technology is concerned, the method of producing bioplastic derived from manure has been patented and they are going to work under a licence with other companies.

The partners for this collaboration are the stakeholders that benefit the most from the solution—the farmers and government. With regard to working with brands, they are planning to make the textile available under its own brand, and are already exploring the possibility of other brands integrating the textile into their products.”

This goes with the vision of the organisation: “Over the next few years, they are planning (along with their partners) to scale up and industrialise their product through the realisation of a prototype plant. It is the ambition of Mestic to ultimately find a significant positive impact to the global climate objectives. They are all there to make a serious contribution to a new circular world.”

The raw material of similar fibres makes up a big percentage of the price of the final product. In the Netherlands, for now, farmers pay us 18 euros per square metre of manure.

This fee pays for the process; so essentially they get their raw material for free.”

Presently they are working with 15 farmers in Eindhoven to create an industrial-scale manure refinery . “The process is chemical and mechani-

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cal, “When you collect manure, it’s a combination of urine and cow poop, 80% water. They separate the dry and wet fraction. The wet fraction is fermented and they [extract] solvents to transform the cellulose, which is nothing other than the grass and corn the cows eat.

“What makes the process better than the normal textile industry Croft method is that it doesn’t need high pressure, as the cow stomach is the first step in making the fibre softer.

It’s also more energy efficient.”

Some academics believe cellulose taken from dung has even more hightech potential thanks to the quadruple-bellied digestion power of a cow.

Prof Alexander Bismarck, head of the polymer group at the University of Vienna, is working on creating ultrathin nanocellulose, for instance – although he had to start with elephant dung because none of his students would initially work with cowpats.

At a time when most solutions come with innumerable constraints, especially of the financial type, this is one innovation that should need little investment. Particularly, in a country like India.

Most people consider cow manure as waste. Jalila Essaidi would disagree.

Her company has patented the method to directly convert animal manure waste into new materials such as biotextiles, plastic and paper. Since cow manure contains cellulose, there is an opportunity to extract raw material from manure into new biodegradable products. Through this process, methane gas production is reduced and contamination of soil and water by phosphate and nitrate is prevented.

They call this fibre as Mestic from which they make bio-plastics and fibers from cow manure. They devel-

oped a product by dissolving-gradepulp from cow-manure. This pulp acts as the raw ingredient for cellulosederivatives like cellulose acetate (bioplastic) and viscose or similar fibers.

PROPERTIES OF COW DUNG FIBRE ; Cow dung is mostly used as fuel cakes or farm fertilizer. Almost 50% of cow dung contains fibers and cellulose.

That portion can be extracted and rest of the dung can be used for farm fertilizer and biogas. The fiber portion can be converted into good quality of Hand Made papers and fabrics and that may fetch substantial income to the owners of cows. For that purpose Village cooperatives may be formed.

Late 2015, Dutch policy makers challenged them to find a solution for the excess cow manure. The enormity of this waste stream is just as big problem in Netherlands as it is worldwide.

However, in the Western part of the world cow manure is seen as a waste product. Initially they set out to create vanilla from manure since as an artist they wanted to show that cow manure has this dual nature of being a repulsive yet also beautiful. Still the entrepreneur in them thought that the cellulose available in cow manure was way more interesting. The material which was locked away in this beautiful waste stream had the potential to massively benefit several industries.

USES OF COW DUNG FIBRE With the developed method they can now turn this massive waste problem into a sustainable resource for creating valuable products, such as beautiful textiles.Would you buy a shirt that has been through the back end of a cow? This could be a future fabric choice according to the Dutch startup, which is extracting cellulose from cowpats to make “manure couture”

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November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES

TESTING, VALUABLE PART OF ENTIRE VALUE CHAIN PROCESS

NIYATI CHHEDA TVC Contributor

Clothes, be it in context of comfort, fashion, styles, fabrics or patterns; have evolved drastically over the years. They are the basic necessity of people in order to shelter them against the scorching heat or the chilling cold. But before reaching the market for the purpose of sales; the quality of the product, its performance, and its reliability are the key factors tested in order provide the customers with what they want.

The clothing should satisfy the customers keeping in mind the presence of harmful substances, comfort and shelf life. In order to ensure the textiles in utilization are safe, textile testing is conducted.

Textile companies and consumer agencies verify, determine and provide assurance of the product which will be used by a series of methodical processes and testing. They are performed to ensure that a given textile is what a manufacturer or importer says it is. Sometimes, testing is done while textiles are being manufactured, to identify problems or faults in the machinery making them, and to double-check that materials being used for a specific textile are appropriate.

The series tested can be conducted before, during and after the production of the textile; for the distributors and consumer to determine the end product’s quality, to identify problems or faults in the machinery making them, to double-check that materials being used for a specific textile are appropriate, to make sure

November 2019

the measurements of raw materials used are accurate and to deduce any analysis of the property of a known or an unknown material.

Physical, mechanical and chemical consistencies of textiles are brought into consideration, where quality assurance testing helps the process or product in the long run to establish credibility. Testing can also be defined as the procedures adopted to determine a product’s suitability and quality.

Textile testing is an important purpose for: • To check the quality and suitability of raw material • To investigate likelihood of sales • To investigate production • To investigate future production • To investigate the quality of final product • To investigate presence of any faulty material • To find better alternatives to save money • To find a substitute material if necessary • To set standards or benchmarks • For R&D (research and development) purpose • For development of better, refurbished products During the process of development of textiles, both the consumer and producer sides are taken in consideration. Both are dependent on each other and need the either to strive in the market. For the consumer or the customer who buys the clothing, the clothes should please their skin, without harming the body on a considerate price to be paid, which looks fashionable and suitable as well. For the producer or the maker of the

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product, the clothing should be produced with decent and safe raw materials at a reasonable price. In order to gain maximum profit, the producers should keep in mind certain characteristics and tests conducted in the textile testing processes: o Performance: abrasion or piling o physical test o Dimensional stability: torque, shrinkage, elongation, stretch and recovery o Weather testing: waterproof, windproof, thermal o Thermal and water vapor resistance o Burn test (for 100% cotton textiles) o weather-ometer o Mechanical tests o breaking strength o gauge tearing strength o abrasion tests o chemical tests o flammability tests o performance testing o Air Permeability: o Dimensional changes after home laundering o Stiffness and bending o Seam strength (for sewn articles) o Tearing strength, penetration resistance

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TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES can be made up of: • Animal fiber based yarns include wool, silk and cashmere.

• Plant fiber based yarns include hemp, cotton and bamboo.

• Synthetic fiber base yarns include nylon, polyester and rayon

o Thickness, compression, and recovery (for floor coverings) o Tensile properties

Testing methods Different principles and instruments may be employed to test a single criterion and it is important to standardize the testing methods or procedures. Various national and international organizations have established standards for textile testing.

Some of the organizations involved in developing textile testing standards are as follows: • AATCC - American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists • ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials • ANSI - American National Standards Institute • ISO - International Organization for Standardization • BSI - British Standards Institute

Testing for Yarn: By definition, Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres. Yarn

The testing of Yarn is quite important in the clothing industry for the following purposes: • Determination of Yarn Count • Determination of Yarn Evenness • Tensile Strength Testing • Twist Testing • Abrasion resistance

Fabric: Cloth produced by weaving or knitting textile Yarns.

Cotton, Denim, Rayon, Linen and Satin are a few types of Fabric materials widely used in the clothing industry for various purposes. The fabrics are determined to be safe for usage for the consumers by these methods of testing: o Visual inspection and Grading of fabric o Fabric color test o Bursting strength test of fabric o Tensile strength and Elongation test of fabric: o Tearing strength test of fabric o Yarn slippage test o Fabric (weight) areal density test o Bowing and Skewness test of fabric

Garment: The garment is the final product worn or made use of. It is the apparel produced after the machinery and raw materials are brought together to create a product. Before it reaches the market for selling purposes, it is once checked to make sure it sustains and provides the said benefits to the consumer, through the processes of: • Color shading • Colorfastness check (Rub test) • Symmetry check • Size fitting test • Adhesive check (logos, printings, markings fastness) • Fabric weight test (for knitted garments) • Fasteners fatigue and zip quality test • Waterproof test • Down feather leakage testing • Seam slippage test (for woven garments) • Care labeling • Needle damage check (for knitted garment) • Barcode scanning test • Burn test (for 100% cotton garment) • Mold contamination prevention • Metal contamination prevention • Ventilation test Companies like NITRA, QIMA, Intertek, Testex, and Spectro in India conduct above testing.

TEXTILE TESTING AND ACCREDITATION OF LABORATORIES IN INDIA Introduction

DR. G.S. NADIGER Federation for Development of Accreditation Services (FDAS) Director

18

Textiles and clothing are a fundamental part of everyday life and an important sector in the global economy.

It is hard to imagine a world without textiles. Clothes are worn by almost everyone, nearly all the time, and for many are an important expression of individuality.

In India, textile has been the fabric of tradition and culture. Industry has been undergoing transformations based on the market needs and the technological in-

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November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES novations in terms of new raw material, machineries and the demand for improvised techniques and quality.

Indian Textile and apparel industry, after the liberalization and globalization, has restructured to address the challenges of quality and competiveness which was lacking during the quota regime. Due to its structure of large volume of operations creating substantial employment generation and traditional vigour, the industry enjoys a prominent role in the Indian economy. Hence, textiles and apparel industry plays a pivotal role in the Indian economy through its significant contribution to the country’s industrial output, employment generation and export earnings. The industry has achieved a noteworthy position as one of the major exporters of varied textile and apparel products including cotton, natural and manmade fibre, silk based textiles, knitted apparel and accessories among others. India currently commands a share of about 4.5% in the world exports of textiles. This is still a very nominal share despite the textile sector in India being one of the oldest sectors and has witnessed revolutionary changes in transforming the industrial and economic landscape of the country.

Presently, the textile industry due to international and domestic challenges appears to be losing its competitiveness and global presence. Some of the challenges are: y Rising competition from neighbouring countries such as China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Turkey in areas such as cotton fabric, apparels, MMF and carpets y Sluggish demand in major export destinations, EU and USA as a result of global economic crisis and y Domestic challenges such as lack of technology up-gradation, inefficient infrastructure and fragmented industry structure among others.

Although, technology upgradation fund scheme (TUFS) launched during 1999 and extended subsequently on the basis of sectorial needs has bridged the

November 2019

gap, it is not sufficient to address the competitive challenges.

Under the global era of trade, quality of the product takes greater role and relevance to face the challenges.

In addition to the quality, the environmental factors also take key roles in the trade. Some of them include the EU regulations such as REACH, RSL, ROHS, MRSL are the major issues confronting the trade and industry. In addition, initiatives like sustainability, ZDHC, Circular Economy also exhibit the catalytic features for achieving Global Sustainable Development goals. An initiative of Govt. of India namely “Zero defect and zero effect” has attracted the attention of industry in management of quality and ecological variables ultimately leading to eco-friendly textiles. In the light of the above, textile testing and its acceptance as quality assurance tool through accreditation and means of achieving the accreditation as per international standards is discussed.

A birds’ Eye view of Textile and allied testing in India Organized quality management in Textile sector was initiated in India through the setting up of cooperative research Association (TRAs) namely, ATIRA, BTRA, SITRA, SASMIRA, WRA NITRA after 1950s. The focus of the industry was to do quality control which worked on the principle of ‘accept or reject’ after the end product is manufactured and prior to trading. During 1970s’ the attention was graduated to process control which is a curative approach. The process control linked to quality control have achieved tangible results in the organised textile sector. With the development of ISO standards, quality management system, the industry adopted Quality Management System as per ISO 9000 standard which is termed as Quality assurance and the concept of quality was redefined. Concomitantly, the environmental management System ISO 14000, Occupational health and safety standard, Social compliance also got introduced which ultimately lead to Total Quality Management

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(TQM).

With liberalization under WTO era and removal of quota system for international trade, the industry accepted the concept ‘produce quality or perish’. In order to map the quality standards, TRAs developed norms in the entire value chain which was limited to processed fabric manufacture and trading. Testing activities as quality management measures are set up in major and medium size manufacturing textile units. TRAs as part of the manifesto supported the member mills in testing and consultancy services. Regulatory bodies like Textiles Committee(TC), Central Silk Board (CSB) and Jute manufacturer’s development council (JMDC) also served the cause of quality testing as regulatory measure. International labs and private labs were set up as the demand for quality services increased in the domestic and export markets.

The third party laboratories provide services to the trade across the cross section of small scale, medium scale and large scale manufacturing enterprises. While, first party labs meet the in house requirements, the buying houses putting their own profile of test requirements take the services of second party labs as approved labs.

However, all the labs should establish common quality equivalence established either mutually agreed methodology or international standards.

Due to enhanced awareness and global concern on ecology and environment, a number of labs to test the toxic and carcinogenic substances also came into existence. The requirements of quality and environmental parameters include both voluntary and regulatory requirements of both national legislature and international ban on certain dyes and chemicals.

The testing infrastructure has been undergoing metamorphosis due to ever changing needs of the trade and industry. Due to the advent of global market as single market with common demand of quality in both domestic and international market, the testing industry is required to face challenges. One of them is ac-

19

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES

creditation of the testing labs as per international standards to claim global equivalence in providing testing services. The focus, hence today, is evaluating the quality and provide evidence of global equivalence. This lead to the requirement of accreditation of the test labs as per ISO 17025 (initially ISO guide 25).

What is accreditation of Laboratory?

When selecting a supplier to fulfil testing requirements, one needs to be sure that the laboratory can provide with consistently accurate and reliable results. Whether or not the laboratory is able to do this, depends on the technical competence of the laboratory carrying out the testing work. The technical competence of a laboratory relies on a number of factors including: y Staff with the right qualifications, knowledge, skills, experience and professional judgement. y The right equipment which is appropriately traceable to national standards and maintained. y Appropriate testing and calibration environment y Appropriate sampling, handling and transportation practices. y Sound testing/inspection procedures. y Accurate recording and reporting of data. y Adequate quality assurance and quality control procedures.

A laboratory may offer their own assurances that they have the above attributes, or the user can attempt to evaluate the service himself. But the way one can be confident in the results of the testing services by securing these services from a labora-

20

tory that is accredited in accordance with ISO/IEC17025 for the testing services by an accreditation body.

Accreditation is thus a process by which an independent, authoritative body determines, against recognised standards, the impartiality and competence of an organisation or individual to carry out the specific tasks.

When it comes to the accreditation of laboratory testing services, the international standard ISO/IEC 17025 defines what is required of a laboratory in order for it to demonstrate the technical competence of the personnel. It also indicates the availability of all the technical resources needed to produce accurate and reliable data and results for a defined set of tests.

Laboratories that conform to ISO/IEC 17025 will also operate generally in accordance with the principles of ISO 9001. Testing laboratory’s fulfilment of the requirements of ISO/IEC 17025 means, therefore, that the laboratory meets both the technical competence requirements and management system requirements that are necessary for it to consistently deliver technically valid test results.

International recognition of accreditation Accreditation of laboratories is performed by accreditation bodies. The primary function of such bodies is, of course, to provide assessment of laboratories against ISO17025. Initially, the accreditation was done as per ISO guideline:25, which was made into a full-fledged standard during 1999.

There have been three versions of the standard and the current standard for accreditation of labs is ISO 17025:2017. International recognition of accreditation awarded by accreditation bodies (AB) is based on the conclusion of Mutual Recognition Agreements (MRAs) accorded as per peer review of the AB. The mechanism is that the ABs seeking to agree to recognise each other’s accreditations would audit each other’s operations against ISO 17011: 2017- Conformity assessment—General requirements for accreditation bodies accrediting conformity assessment bodies. This

is the international standard to which assessment bodies are expected to adhere in the management of their accreditation services.

MRAs may be multi-lateral i.e. involving more than two bodies; but even so they can be rather cumbersome and it can take quite some time for a national body to establish significant international recognition. However, this rather cumbersome process is being rapidly streamlined by means of regional laboratory accreditation Cooperation bodies linked through International Laboratory Accreditation Cooperation (ILAC). Such a regional body for India is Asia Pacific Accreditation Cooperation (APAC), which applies rules for membership, including compliance with ISO 17011, and audits accreditation bodies for compliance. Mutual recognition is then organised between the regional bodies, so simplifying the whole system and shortening the timescale.

This regionalisation of international recognition is developing rapidly and it is still possible to find accreditation bodies who are members of regional groups who prefer to pick and choose which of the other members they will recognise.

The recent World Trade Organisation initiatives to deal with technical barriers to trade have sought to address the question of global acceptance of test data as part of quality issues in international trade. The agreement can be summarised as a recognition that, when deciding whether data from a particular laboratory is acceptable, a key criterion should be compliance of the laboratory with ISO 17025. In this context, the following points are important.

Accreditation must have credibility, which means, in practice, that the accreditation body must apply ISO 17025 rigorously and itself operate to ISO 17011. Simply having an accreditation body is not, in itself, a solution. y The credibility of the accreditation body on an international scale needs MRAs, specially with countries which are recipients of trade

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November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES goods needing testing support. y The credibility of individual laboratories can be established by their direct assessment by either customers or accreditation bodies from trading partners.

How to choose an Accreditation Body?

The key issue in selecting an accreditation body is to ensure that it has recognition in the context in which the laboratory’s data needs to be used.

Where a laboratory operates purely in a domestic market and where the data is used only within the country, for example for local food safety or environmental protection, then a national accreditation body, even one with no international recognition, will normally be entirely suitable. However, if the laboratory is servicing exporters who need to present its data internationally, it is critical that the accreditation body is recognised by importing countries. Hence, the laboratory needs to establish the range of MRAs held by the accreditation body and especially which other countries, other than the home country of the accreditation body towards recognition of accreditation awarded by it.

Accreditation Bodies and Accreditation activities in India National Accreditation Board for Laboratories (NABL) is a national initiative and has been operating in India over the past 25 years. Nearly 7000 different types of laboratories including textile testing; covering Test, calibration and medical laboratories are accredited by NABL. India being a large country and large economy (fifth) and with more than three hundred thousand, small and big laboratories, it needs more accreditation bodies to accelerate accreditation process and to provides opportunities to those Labs which are serving for both, the social and economic cause. In this pursuit, private or cooperative initiated accreditation bodies are being set up. One such initiatives to complement the accreditation activities in India is by “Federation for Development

November 2019

of Accreditation Services (FDAS)”.

About Federation for Development of Accredita tion Services (FDAS) Federation for development of Accreditation Services has been set up as non-profit making body and a nongovernment organization (NGO) in Gurgaon, Haryana. FDAS is authorized to grant accreditation to laboratories, as a non-government organization, under section 9(1) of the Haryana Registration and Regulation of Societies Act, Department of Industries & Commerce, Haryana State, India, vide registration number HR/018/2019/03652, on 27th March 2019, as its own legal identity, which empowers FDAS to grant accreditation to all types of testing, calibration and medical laboratories as per the relevant international standard covering the envisaged scope of accreditation. In the light of the above, FDAS operates its accreditation management system to comply with ISO/ IEC 17011: 2017, and its accreditation program would grant accreditation to testing, calibration and medical laboratories, as per relevant international Standards. FDAS is committed to abide by the norms from international institutions like ISO, IEC, ILAC, APAC etc., where applicable, so that its accredited CABs/Labs are having demonstrated global equivalence.

FDAS accredits the Cabs/Labs as per the following criteria: i. General requirement for the competence of Testing and Calibration laboratories ISO/IEC 17025: 2017; ii. Medical laboratories – requirements for quality and competence, ISO 15189: 2012 Besides, accredited CABs/ laboratories are required to abide by the: i. FDAS Terms and conditions of maintaining accreditation. ii. Terms and conditions for use of FDAS symbol iii. FDAS Supplementary Criteria for test, Calibration and medical Labs.

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iv.nThe required information on the above lines could be found in the website: www.fdasindia.org FDAS has adopted ILAC documents from P & G series, where available.

Concluding Remarks Total quality assurance and environmental compliance is necessary to address the challenges of textile trade and industry. However, other issues pertaining to the industrial management are equally important to take the competitive advantages.

Testing activities either in house or third party testing serve as an important tool for the quality assurance.

In addition to quality parameters, environmental parameters are the demand of the textile trade. In order to validate the performance of testing, accreditation of the labs as per ISO/IEC 17025:2017 is essential as the test results obtained are accepted across the global trade. Textile labs have to strive for achieving the global equivalence which can be reinforced through accreditation.

Reference i.‘Challenges and Strategies to Promote India as a Sourcing Destination’; Indian Institute of Foreign Trade, New Delhi (2018) ii.Study on “Garment Sector to understand their requirement for Capacity building”; technopak, (2018) iii.“Innovations in The Textile and Apparel Industry”; Ministry of Textiles (2014) iv.Junqian Xu, Yong Liu and Liling Yang; “A Comparative Study of the Role of China and India in Sustainable Textile Competition in the U.S. Market under Green Trade Barriers”, Sustainability 2018, 10, p -1348 v.ILAC –B 5:2018 “Securing testing, measurement or calibration services. The difference between accreditation and certification”; (2018) vi.“Complying with ISO 17025- A practical guidebook for meeting the requirements of laboratory accreditation schemes based on ISO 17025:2005 or equivalent national standards” UNIDO (2009) vii.FDAS (2019)

100:

Information

Brochure

viii. www.fdasindia.org

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TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES

SERVICES OFFERED BY COE (PROTECH), NITRA Heat Test (ISO 6942/ IS:15758-Part-2), Molten Metal Splash Test (ISO 9185/ IS:15758-Part-5, Contact Heat Test (ISO 12127-1/ISO 12127-2), Thermal & Water Vapour Resistance Tester (ISO 11092), Stab & Impact test (VPAM KDIW 2004 ), Tensile strength (ISO 13934-1), Tear Strength (ISO 139372), Bursting strength (ISO 13938-1), Seam Strength (ISO 13935-2), UPF (AATCC 183, AS/NZ 4399), Thermal Insulation (ASTM C518, ISO 8301, ASTM 1518), Slide fastener (IS 14181), Hook & Loop fastener (IS 8156), Water vapour permeability (ASTM E96), Impact of Spatter Test (ISO 9150/ IS:15758 -Part-1), Electrical Resistance (EN 1149-1/ EN 1149-2), High Visibility (EN 20471/ IS:15809), etc.

DR ARINDAM BASU DR M.S.PARMAR Northern India Textile Research Association Testing services: NITRA offers exhaustive testing facilities to textile, apparel, technical textiles (Protective textiles) and allied industries through its six NABL accredited (ISO/IEC 17025:2005) and BIS recognized laboratories (Group 2 Lab) i.e. Physical, Chemical, Heat & Flame, Polymer & Technical Textiles, Eco and Environment. All the laboratories are equipped with state of the art testing equipment and work 24x7. Testing facilities is available to test samples as per IS, ISO, ASTM, AATCC, DIN, BS, JASO, SAE, EN, NFPA and other customized standards. Heat & Flame laboratory is the latest additions among them. This most advanced laboratory was established under Centre of Excellence (Protech) with the support from Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. Some of the facilities related to test safety (heat & flame), durability and comfort properties of technical textiles are given below: • Personal protective clothing: Ease Of Ignition of Vertically Oriented Specimen (BS EN ISO 6940), Flame Spread Properties Of Vertically oriented specimen ( BS EN ISO 6941/ BS EN 1103), Night Wear Clothing (BS 5438/ BS 5722), 45°Inclined Specimen 16FR 1610/ ASTM D 1230/ IS:11871, CAN/CGSB-4.2, Vertical Flammability Test ( IS:11871/ BS 3119/ NFPA 1971), Horizontal Flammability Test (IS:15061/ ASTM D 4804), Limited Flame Spread Test(ISO 15025 -Method A & Method B, BS 5438 Test-1 & 2/ BS 5438 -3/IS:15758 -Part-4), Surface Flammability Test (ISO5658-2/ IMO A 653), Convective Heat Test( ISO 9151/ IS:15758 -Part-1), Radiant

22

•

Upholsteries: Ignitability of Vertically Oriented Specimen (BS EN 1101/ IS:15612/ IS:15741), Flame Spread Vertically (BS EN 1102/ NFPA 701), Smoldering Cigarette Test (IS: 15727/16 CFR 1632 ,ASTM D4723, BS 5852 - Source-0/ ISO 12952-2), Match Flame Test (BS 5852-Source 1), etc.

• Automotive fabrics: Horizontal Test (FMVSS 302/ DIN 75200/ IS 15061), water repellency, Dust and Dirt release test (stain release), Taber abrasion, tensile strength before and after UV exposure, Fogging, Effect of humidity and temperature cycle exposure etc • Supplies to railways: Limiting Oxygen Index (IS:13501/ ISO 4589-2), Smoke Visibility Test (UIC 564-2 Appendix 15), Toxicity Index (NCD 1409), Fire Resistance Test (UIC 564 -2 Appendix 5) • Floor coverings: Methanamine Tablet Test ( BS 6307/ IS: 12722), Hot Metal Nut Test (BS 4790), Burning and Smouldering times of vertically Oriented specimen (IS: 15764) etc.

Centre of Excellent (CoE) - PROTECH: NITRA is designated as Centre of Ex-

cellent (CoE) for Protective Textiles

by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India with the following objectives: • To frame standards /Specifications • To provide testing facilities • To organise training, workshops, seminars/conferences • To establish international linkage • To create a resource centre • To have facility of incubation centre Under the CoE, Heat & Flame Testing laboratory has been established to test textiles and allied products as per National and International standard. The laboratory is having facilities to test work-wear, fire fighter clothing, extreme cold climate clothing, textiles used in public places, and all other textile products used for heat and flame safety purposes. Beside this, the laboratory is also equipped with facility to test water repellency, water resistance, chemical resistance, electrical resistivity of textile and allied products.

The CoE is also equipped with state of the art instruments to test mechanical properties like tensile strength, tear strength, bursting strength, abrasion resistance, pore size analysis, cut proof test etc. of textiles and allied products.

NITRA has an incubation centre and a Focus Incubation Centre (FIC) to provide necessary facilities to the entrepreneurs for incubation of new ideas/ technologies. Both Centres were set up with the financial assistance from Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.

The various activities taken under CoE (Protech) are divided in to four heads- R&D activities which also include incubation activities, framing standards/specification, Testing services and consultancy & training. The activity wise details are given below:

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November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES Framing tions:

of

standards/Specifica-

NITRA plays a very important role in standardizing the textile materials used by the Govt. employees including military/ paramilitary forces and other organizations. Some of the specifications developed by NITRA for CRPF (CoBRA), CRPF, Indian Navy, BSF, ITBP, CISF, SSB, DBEL-DRDO, Assam Rifles, NSG, BSF, NDRF, Railways Police Security Force, VIP Security, RAF are as follows: - Nylon Life Jacket with expandable polyethylene foam buckle and whistle plastic, Combat light weight blanket with good insulating, Organic Socks, Hand Gloves Knitted, Sleeping bag, Jungle Floppy Hat, Tactical 3 points sling universal, Anti-mosquito Veil, Light weight ground sheet, Pouch for Ammunition and Grenades, Balaclava with convertible properties as cap com-

forter face mask and cold weather muffler, Durable Combat Rucksack, Coat Parka, Multipurpose light weight load bearing frame with carrier facilities and convertibility as stretcher (Made of Aluminum), Water Proof Multi Purpose rain Poncho with, convertibility as bivouac, Waist belt nylon with buckle and ring, Beret cap, Trouser BD Serge, Specification of “Track suit”, Cotton sports socks for Divers of the Indian Navy, Cap FS Blue (Floppy Hat Type), Unarmed Combat Dress for Marine commandoes, T-Shirt and Short, Specification of “Flag”, Dope dyed polyester viscose uniform cloth-Khaki, Dope dyed polyester viscose uniform cloth-Black (Colour specification), Colour specification of camouflage uniform, Cloth Disruptive Pattern, P/V dope dyed olive green and silver grey uniform, Specification for Tactical Pistol Holster, Specification of Anklet Web,

Specification of Cotton Drawer, Specification of Dungree cloth.

- NITRA is also involved in framing of Bureau of Indian Standard (BIS) on protective textiles (Committee TXD 32). Some of the standards framed are given below: o IS 16890: Protective Clothing for Firefighters — Specification o IS 16874: Protective Gloves for Firefighters — Specification o IS 16725: Tactical 3 Points Sling Universal — Specification o IS 17051: Bullet Resistant Jackets — Performance Requirements o IS 16726: Pouch for Ammunition and Grenades Made of Disruptive Pattern Nylon 6 6 — Specification o IS 16655: Protective Clothing for Use in Welding and Allied Processes

CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE (COE) FOR GEOTECH BTRA • Modern testing facility for testing Geotech segment under Centre of Excellence for Geotech

BTRA

sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India – Accredited as per GAI-LAP scheme of Geosynthetics Institute, Pennsylvania, USA, as well as NABL

Testing Services BTRA Test Laboratories are accredited to NABL as per ISO-17025 standards. Testing facility for Geotech segment is accredited by M/s.

Geosynthetics Institute (GSI), Folsom, Pensylvania, USA under the GAI – LAP Accreditation Programme for 24 tests of geosynthetics products.

Complete range of testing for Conventional as well as Technical Textiles provided to Textile and Allied Industry.

• Physical / chemical properties – fibre, yarn, fabric [made with natural and man-made fibres and woven / nonwoven / knitted fabrics] and allied products, chemicals/dyestuffs,

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tergent manufacturers, etc.

• Water / effluent analysis • Calibration Laboratory

etc.

V.K. PATIL SNEHAL DHAMDHERE

•

Soil Mechanics and Asphalt Testing Laboratory for testing soil, aggregate and bitumen under Centre of Excellence for Geotech sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India • Technical textiles / composites testing / Nonwovens • Polymer properties – certain unique & special test facilities • Microbiological properties • Eco-parameters testing - as per eco-standards for banned chemicals • Specially designed tests for washing machine manufacturers, de-

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Testing at BTRA is performed as per various international and national standards viz., ASTM, AATCC, BS, ISO, EN, DIN, EDANA, INDA and IS. It has specially trained staff to handle sensitive tests and their skills are upgraded continuously. BTRA Test Laboratories participates regularly in the following Proficiency Testing Programs conducted by various reputed agencies to hone up its skills.

Area of Research R&D Focus • Research on process and product development •

Product/process development and testing of Nonwovens / Technical Textiles Recent research projects undertaken are as follows:

23

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES RECENTLY COMPLETED

• Electro-spinning Plant

• Atmospheric pressure plasma treatment for enhancing the conducting properties of textiles doped with intrinsic conductive polymers

• Composites development – Resin Transfer Moulding / Compression & Injection Moulding

• Studies on effect of plasma treatment for adhesion improvement of coated technical textiles

• Single Screw Extruder – suitable for wide range of polymers such as PET, PP,PE, Nylon etc.

• Studies on Radiation induced Modification of Textile Materials

• Twin Screw Extruder – suitable for melt blending of polymer with fillers or different polymers

• Mechanical Properties, Stability and Structure of Polymeric Composites Reinforced with

Functionalised Fibres • Development of electronic servo control drive industrial TFO twister for heavy denier filament yarn • Development of cotton waste based oil absorbent for oil spill clean-up • Nano-fibre application to enhance the anti-clogging properties of geotextiles • Melt spinning of PVDF / ZnO nanostructure hybrid filament for wearable smart textile

INFRASTRUCTURE AVAILABLE

FACILITIES

Product Development Facility BTRA has very good infrastructure comprising pilot plants for conducting trials and evaluation, sophisticated testing and measuring instruments and Library.

Pilot Plants • Nonwoven Pilot Plant (Hydroentanglement by Fleissner) •

Nonwoven Pilot Plant (needlepunch type by Dilo) • Weaving Machine for development of Technical Textiles • Plasma treatment machine for Textiles and Polymers

24

• Polymers Extrusion [Spin-draw Melt Spinning] Plant

BTRA Test Laboratories (BTL) BTL is accredited by NABL as per ISO/ IEC 17025 Standards.

BTRA also has the unique advantage of not only testing technical textiles for their properties but also is equipped with modern polymer laboratory, which is essential for raw material tests of many synthetic technical textiles in terms of their chemical groups, molecular weights and their structure but also in assessing their performance characteristics. In 2008, the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, recognized BTRA as a Centre of Excellence for Geotech, based on its earlier experience, expertise and facility in this field. Laboratories have sophisticated testing and measuring instruments for Raw materials such as – • Thermal Analysis [Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Thermogravimetry (TGA) • Fourier Transform – Infra Red (FT – IR) Analysis • Fourier Transform – Infra Red (FT – NIR) Analysis • X-ray Diffraction Studies (XRD) X-ray diffractometer with texture goniometer BTRA is extensively working in the area of nonwovens /technical textiles, since 1987. In fact much earlier, in 1983-84 period, testing of nonwovens / coated materials were initi-

ated at BTRA Test House. Full _ledge pilot plant consists of needle punching, thermal bonding and chemical bonding facilities were set up in 1987, thanks to grant from Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. Manpower was trained in product development and testing of different technical textiles products / nonwovens. BTRA is working actively with manufacturers for development of non-woven products and their testing. BTRA has more than two decades of experience in product development and testing of nonwovens / technical textiles.

During the course of last three decades, BTRA has been helping Indian manufacturers to develop products, overcome processing problems and manufacture to meet specifications in the area of nonwovens.

Geosynthetics Testing Lab BTRA setup a new laboratory with all testing facilities, in March 2008, for geosynthetic products such as Geotextiles, Geomembranes, Geocomposites, Gabions, Geosynthetic Clay Liner, Geogrids, Prefabricated Vertical Drain etc. It is also accredited

by NABL as per ISO/IEC 17025 standards.

Apart from having NABL Accreditation as per ISO/IEC-17025 standards, the Geotech Laboratory at BTRA is also accredited by Geosynthetics Institute (GSI), Folsom, Pensylvania, USA under the GAI – LAP Accreditation Programme. It is pertinent to mention that BTRA is the first commercial lab in India and probably only the third institute outside USA to get this coveted accreditation. What this means to the geosynthetics producers and users is that they can get their products tested in BTRA with utmost confidence and the accuracy of the results are as good as any other GAI-LAP accredited laboratories.

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November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES Product wise Test facility Geotextile ASTM D 5261, ISO 9864

5

MFI

ASTM D 1238

6

Peel strength

ASTM D 6636

7

Pyramid Puncture Resist- ASTM D 5494 ance

8

Seam strength

ASTM D 6392

9

Shear strength

ASTM D 6392

10

Stress Crack Resistance ASTM D 5397 (NTCL)

1

Mass

2

Tensile strength by nar- ASTM D 5035, ISO 13934row strip method 1

2a

Tensile strength by Wide ASTM D 4595 strip method

3

Thickness

4

Grab strength & elonga- ASTM D 4632 tion

11

5

Trapezoid Tear strength

ASTM D 4533

Tensile Strength &elong. ASTM D 6693 at Break &Yield&

12

Tear Resistance

ASTM D 1004

6

Apparent Opening Size

ASTM D 4751

13

Thickness

ASTM D 5199, ISO 9863-1

7

CBR puncture resistance

ASTM D 6241, ISO 12236

14

2% Secant Modulus

ASTM D 5323

8

Water Permeability/Per- ASTM D 4491, ISO 11058 mittivity

15

OIT ( Normal & High Pres- ASTM D 3985 & 5885 sure by DSC)

9

UV Resistance

1

10

In-Plane permeability of ASTM D 4716, ISO 12958 Nonwoven Geotextile

Wide Width strength

2

Hydraulic transmissivity

ASTM D 4716, ISO 12958

11

Pore size

ASTM D 6767

3

Mass

ASTM D 5261, ISO 9864

12

Bursting strength

ASTM D 3886

4

Thickness

ASTM D 5199

13

Chemical Resistance

ASTM D 6389, EPA 9090, EN 14030

5

Static (CBR) puncture re- ASTM D 6241, ISO 12236 sistance

14

Index Puncture Resistance ASTM D 4833

6

Ply Adhesion

15

Seam strength of woven ASTM D 4884 geobag

16

Abrasion by sliding block ASTM D 4886 method

17

Asphalt retention

ASTM D 6140

18

Pullout resistance

ASTM D 6706

ASTM D 5199, ISO 9863-1

ASTM D 4355

Geogrid ( Uniaxial) 1

Tensile strength & elonga- ASTM D 6637 tion

2

Junction strength

ASTM D 7737, GG2

3

Mass

ASTM D 5261, ISO 9864

4

Aperture size

In House method

5

Pullout resistance

ASTM D 6706

Geomembrane 1

Carbon Black content

ASTM D 1603

2

Density

ASTM D 792

3

ESCR

ASTM D 1693

4

Index Puncture Resistance ASTM D 4833

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Geocomposite Tensile ASTM D 4595

ASTM D 7005

PVD 1

Mass per unit length

In House method

2

Tensile strength& elonga- ASTM D 4595 tion

3

Thickness

ASTM D 5199, ISO 9863-1

4

Hydraulic transmissivity

ASTM D 4716, ISO 12958

Filter component (Nonwoven) 5

Grab strength & elonga- ASTM D 4632 tion

6

Trapezoid Tear strength

7

Water Permeability/Per- ASTM D 4491, ISO 11058 mittivity

ASTM D 4533

Geocell 1

Carbon Black content

ASTM D 1603

2

Density

ASTM D 792

3

ESCR

ASTM D 1693

4

Index Puncture Resistance ASTM D 4833

5

MFI

ASTM D 1238

6

Seam Peel strength

ISO 13426-1

7

Thickness

ASTM D 5199, ISO 9863-1

25

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES 8

Asperity height

9

In House method

4

Chemical resistance

ASTM D 6213

Stress Crack Resistance ASTM D 5397 (NTCL)

5

UV Resistance

ASTM D 4355

Rope (of Gabion)

6

Aperture size

In House method

7

Mass

ASTM D 5261, ISO 9864

8

Radial stiffness

ISO 10319

1

Tensile strength

ASTM D 6268, ISO 6892, IS 7016-IV

2

Weight per meter

In House method

3

Thermal stabilization

In House method

4

UV Resistance

ASTM D 4355

Geogrid truded)

(

Bi-axial-ex-

1

Tensile strength & elonga- ASTM D 6637, ISO 10319 tion

2

Junction efficiency

ASTM D 7737, GG2

3

Carbon Black content

ASTM D 1603

SN Product Image SN Product Image 1 Woven Geotextile 1 Woven Geotextile (Continuous filament) (Continuous filament)

2

Woven Geotextile Woven Geotextile ( Tape filament) ( Tape filament) 9

3

4

5

6

7

8

3

4

5

6

7

8

Nonwoven Geotextile Nonwoven Geotextile ( Needle punched ) ( Needle punched )

Geocell Geocell

26

ASTM D 5993

2

Mass of Bentonite

ASTM D 5993

3

Swell Index of Bentonite ASTM D 5890 clay

4

Peel strength

5

Grab strength & elonga- ASTM D 4632 tion

6

Tensile Strength & elongation

ASTM D 6496

9

1

Mass

2

Chemical resistance

ASTM D 6388

3

Thickness

ASTM D 5199

4

Tensile strength

ASTM D 7179

5

Carbon Black content

ASTM D 1603

ASTM D 5261

Geogrid Geogrid (Knitted or woven ) (Knitted or woven )

10 Geogrid (extruded) Geogrid (extruded)

11

11 Glass Grid Glass Grid

12

12 Geomattress Geomattress

13

13 Geocomposite Geocomposite

14

14 Metal Gabion Metal Gabion

15

15 Rope Gabion Rope Gabion

Geocell (perforated) Geocell (perforated)

PVD PVD (Prefabricated Vertical (Prefabricated Vertical Drain) Drain)

Mass of GCL

10

Nonwoven Geotextile Nonwoven Geotextile (Melt blown) (Melt blown)

Nonwoven Geotextile Nonwoven Geotextile (Spun bonded) (Spun bonded)

1

Geonet ( Drainage net)

Geosynthetic Products & their Applications

2

GCL (Geosynthetic Clay Liner)

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES

DKTE CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE IN NONWOVENS DKTE COE TESTING LABORATORIES ANIKET BHUTE DKTE TESTING SERVICES AVAILABLE AT DKTE

COE NONWOVENS Sr.

Testing Instruments

No 1 2

Test

Test Standard

GSM Tester

Mass per unit area of fabric

IS 15891 Part 1 : 2011

( SDL Atlas, Hong Kong)

(Nonwoven, Woven, Knitted)

WSP 130.1.R4 (12)

Digital Bursting Strength Tester

Bursting

ASTM D3786; BS 3424(PT6); ISO

Autoburst M229(SDL Atlas, Hong

distension at burst of woven,

13938-1, ISO 3303-2 ; ERT 80-4-20;

Kong)

knitted and non

EN 12332-2 ; WSP 030.1.R3 (12)

strength

and

woven fabrics, papers and boards 3

Digital Thickness Tester

Thickness of fabric

IS 15891 Part 2 : 2011

Water Repellency of fabric

ISO 9865

(SDL Atlas, Hong Kong) 4

ISO9073-2:1995, WSP 120.1.R4

Water Repellency TesterBundesmann M 230

NF G 07-058

( SDL Atlas, Hong Kong) 5 6

Microscope With Microtome

Physical

Pyser SGI, XE Series (WIRA, UK)

fibres

LOI Tester

Limiting

(Gov Mark, USA)

textiles

BS2782Part1, Method 141, NFT 51-

Pore Size Analyser/Capillary Flow

Pore Size of fabrics

ASTM E 1294-89

UV degradation for fabrics

AATCC 186-2009

identification oxygen

index

of

AATCC 20

of

ASTM D 2863, ISO 4589 Part 2 071

7

Porometer CFP 1300 AE (PMI, USA) 8

UV Accelerated Weathering

ASTM F316-03

Tester

ASTM D 3105, ASTM D 5019

(Q LAB, USA) 9

Linear Density & Fibre Crimp

Testing

(FaviMat, Textechno, Germany)

crimp and tensile properties

of

linear

density,

BISFA,ASTM, ISO

of fibre 10

Air Permeability Tester

Air Permeability of fabric

( Textest Instruments AG,

AFNOR G 07-111, WSP 070.1.R3 (12) EDANA 141.1, EN ISO 9237

Switzerland) 11

Water Vapour Transmission Rate

Water vapour

Tester-Gravitest FX 3150

of textiles

Transmission

( Textest, Switzerland)

ASTM E96, BS 3’177, DIN 52’615, DIN 53’122-1, EN 1’931, EN ISO 12’572, ISO 2’528, JIS L1099 Method A

12 13

14 15

Non Woven Orientation NOS-200 (

MD:CD ratio, fibre distribution

Lenzing, Austria)

in nonwoven

Liquid Strike Through & Wet Back,

Strike Through time for Liquid

Liq. strike-through time by

LISTER AC ( Lenzing, Austria)

(or simulated urine) and Wet

EDANA/INDA-standards WSP 70.3,

Back of nonwoven cover stock

Wet back by EDANA/INDA

In house Method

fabrics for diapers.

standards WSP 80.10

Thermal Conductivity Tester

Thermal Conductivity of

ASTM D-1518-11a

(Lasercomp, USA)

textiles like fabric

Digital Tearing Strength Tester

Tearing Strength of fabric

Elmatic ( Mesdan, Italy)

TRAINING ACTIVITIES DKTE COE Nonwovens is actively engaged in creating awareness and providing training in technical textiles & Nonwoven.

The centre is enthusiastically creating awareness and spreading knowledge about the technical textiles field as a whole.

Short term certificate courses are also being offered round the year to suit the requirements of the industry onsite or at site. Providing training in technical textiles for of students, faculty members of academic institutions and technicians from the industry, so far more than 4000 people were made aware about the technical textiles, Chemical Testing Lab nonwovens & their applications in fields of Engineering like Automobile, Civil, Agriculture and horticulture etc.

EN ISO 13937-1 EN ISO 4674-2 (coated fabrics) ASTM D 1424 ASTM D 751 (coated fabrics) EN ISO 21974 ISO 1974 ISO 9290 AFNOR G07-149 GB/T 455 ASTM D5734 (non-wovens)

16

Hydrostatic Water Head Tester

Hydrostatic Water Head

EN ISO 20811, DIN 53886, AFNOR

( Mesdan, Italy)

testing

G-07 057, ISO 811, BS 32823, BS EN 3321, BS EN 3424, AATCC 127

17 18

Gradient Ratio Test Apparatus

To test the Filter/clogging

( BT TECH, USA)

characteristics of geotextiles

Gradient Ratio Permeameter

Water Transmittivity Tester

To test the Transmissivity (in-

ASTM D 4716-87

( BT TECH, USA)

plane flow) Characteristics of

ASTM D 5101 Soil/Geo textile

geo-synthetic Drainage material profiles 19

Tensile strength of Textiles

Yarns, Fabric (Woven/ Knitted)

IS 15891 (Part 3) : 2011

Instron-5967 ( Instron, USA)

Nonwoven, Geotextiles,

ISO9073-3:1989

Composites Direct Shear Box

Soil /Geo-synthetic interaction

(AIMIL, India)

(Coefficient of direct sliding )

21

Digital pH Meter

pH of aqueous extract

IS : 1390 , ISO-3071, AATCC-81

22

Viscometer

Viscosity of fluids and

In house Method

RVDV-II+ Pro (Brookfield, USA)

Polymers

Particle Size Analyzer

Particle Size of dyes, nano

20

23

IS:11229,2720(PART13)

ASTM B822-10

powders 24

Water Permeability

November 2019

Water permeability of textiles

DKTE CoE Nonwovens to set up focused incubation centre to help budding entrepreneurs to develop innovative technical textile products and boost manufacturing of coated technical textiles sector. This centre would help budding entrepreneurs build innovative technical textile products in a ‘plug and play’ model and would help promote ‘Make in India’ in Textiles,” DKTE COE Nonwovens has established the “Focused Incubation Centre on Coated Technical Textiles”. The Coating machine from M/s. Taskar Engineering, Ahmadabad has been successfully

In house Method

www.textilevaluechain.com

27

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES commissioned in the premises of the DKTE COE Nonwovens.

Machine can be used by incubates for new business startups by developing various types of coating mixings of aqueous base in PU , PVC, Silicon, Acrylic, Fluro Carbon etc.

Substrate can be coated: • Woven– Cotton, Viscose, Polyester and its blends etc • Nonwovens – Polyester, Viscose, Acrylic etc • Knitted : Cotton, Polyester • Width: 2.2 meter working width

Training courses offered by DKTE COE Nonwovens

Coating Machine

COURSE

CONTENT

1. Orientation course in Nonwovens Duration : 1 week Batch size : 20

I. Introduction to Nonwovens ii. Classification of Nonwovens iii. Composition and construction of Nonwovens iv. Manufacturing of Nonwovens v. Testing and evaluation of Nonwovens vi. Market scenario of Nonwovens

2. Testing and evaluation of technical textiles Duration : 1 week Batch size : 15 Qualification : Science Graduate / Diploma or Degree in Textiles

i. Introduction& classification of Technical Textiles ii. Functional Requirements of Technical Textiles iii. Principles of Testing and Evaluation iv. Introduction to various test standards v. Standard Test methods for evaluating Technical Textiles vi. Testing and evaluation of Technical Textiles

3. Crash course in Testing and evaluation of technical textiles (Customised) (Theory & Practical Demonstration) Duration : 3 days Batch size: 5 max.

Qualification : Science Graduate / Diploma or Degree in Textiles

i. Introduction to Technical Textiles and Testing ii. Introduction to various test standards iii. Standard Test methods for evaluating Technical Textiles iv. Testing and evaluation of Technical Textiles v. Practical Demonstration of Test Procedures

4. Entrepreneurship in Nonwovens Duration : 1 week Batch size : 20

i. Introduction to Nonwovens ii. Classification of Nonwovens iii. Composition and construction of Nonwovens iv. Manufacturing of Nonwovens v. Testing and evaluation of Nonwovens vi. Market research in Nonwovens vii. Product development strategy viii. Product Pricing ix. Government Schemes and Fiscal Policies x. Business Promotion for Nonwovens

28

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES INNOVATIVE MACHINES AND INSTRUMENTS AT WOOL RESEARCH ASSOCIATION AND COE’S - SPORTECH MRINAL Joint Director Wool Research Association There has been enormous market growth for sportswear over last 20 years. The sportswear market comprises around 45% of the global sports equipment, sport apparel and footwear market. The sportswear categories account for a sales value of approximately US$265 billion in 2015 as reported in Euromonitor International (2016). Sports participation rates and activities have increased in major markets in recent years, with some of the key activities being fitness, gym and running.

Under Ministry of Textiles Technology Mission in Technical textiles, WRA has set up a Centre of Excellence in Sportech. WRA has set up state of Art testing facilities and incubation centre and simultaneous efforts have been made to attend international accreditations and collaborations.

WRA has been serving user industry through its wide testing facilities and development of affordable products in India without compromising functionality and performance of our athletes.

Under Centre of Excellence of Sportech WRA has purchased Raschel and Tricot Type Warp Knitting Machines. These machines are installed commissioned and running full fledge

Under Centre of Excellence of Sportech WRA has purchased Raschel and Tricot Type Warp Knitting Machines. These machines are installed commissioned and running full fledge 1. Warp Knitting Machine (Raschel) Make - Comez International, Italy Model – DNB –EL 1270

Technical Specifications:

November 2019

* 50% in Gauge 5 needles per inch & 50% in Gauge 15 needles per inch; full width in 10 * Gauges * Working width: 1270 mm

Applications Electronic double needle bed warp knitting machine for the production of a wide range of articles, for example: • Technical uses (netting for sports equipment and the food industry, high resistance ribbons in special fibres, ribbons and fabrics for applications in the geo-textile, • automotive, building and industrial sectors) • Medical uses (tubular elastic netting, emergency bandages and dressings, disposable • underwear)

* 12 guide bars with electronic control * Distance between needle beds: 1 - 16 mm

• Footwear (spacer fabrics for uppers) • Women’s apparel (mesh stockings and pantyhose) and fashion fabrics

* Stitch density (on both needle beds): 1- 40 stitches/cm

Features i. Safety light curtain, 1 at the front and 1 at the rear of the machine. ii. Front footboard iii. knockover sinker group iv.Reed unit for oscillation thread guiding v. Electronic speed variator INVERTER vi. Shock absorber feet vii. Neon lamp viii. Pilot lamp ix. Machine stop cause detector x. Finished product takedown rollers, with electronic control (2 groups, each comprising 3 rollers) xi. Standard supply package of consumables and accessories Electrical Supply: 380-440 VAC 50-60H23PH+T - Main motor power: 4 kW - Installed power: 6.575 kVA

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2. Warp Knitting Machine (Tricot) Make – Karlmayer, Germany Model - HKS-3M

Applications - High performance tricot machine for the productions of all the 3 bar articles, from light tulle

29

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES over technical coating substrates up to raised velours.

Technical Specifications: • KAMCOS (Karl Mayer Command System) single speed • Gauge : E28 • Maximum working width : 3302 mm ( 130 inches) • Bars/knitting elements • Individual needle bar (synchronously milled) • Tongue bar (synchronously milled ) • Sinker bar with knock over adjustment (chromium plated sinkers) • 3 ground guide bars (GB 1 upto GB 3 stitch-forming, shog upto 25 mm) • All the bars are made of carbon fiber reinforced plastic.

• Pattern drive- N • Including integrated tempi change gear drive.

• Pattern drive equipment • 3 pattern disks, • Yarn let-off device • For each completely mounted warp beam position: 1 electronically controlled yarn • let-off drive, driven by geared motor.

• Feeler roller device • For each completely mounted warp beam position, for readjusting the yarn feeding • values in relation to the circumference of the sectional beam.

• Beam Shafts Develop and produce warp knitted fabric for

Under Centre of Excellence of Sportech WRA has purchased Sweat-

ing thermal Mannequin. The instrument has been installed commissioned and running full fledge Sweating thermal Mannequin (Newton Thermal Manikin): For simulating body temperatures of sport athletes “Newton” is a complete turn-key thermal manikin system used world-wide for a broad range of clothing and environmental testing.

Features : • Make – Measurement Technology, USA • Represents the Asian male population • It behaves just like the human.

• Measures thermal and evaporative environments • 34 independently controlled thermal zones.

• Work range -20 degree Celsius to + 50 degree Celsius and • 0-100 RH. • Quantify the data very accurately.

WRA developed Membrane Bioreactors for effluent treatment produced

ο Automotive textiles ο Upholstery ο Toy plus

ο Mosquito nets ο Coating substrate

30

Membrane: Membrane of Polypropylene (PP) hollow fibre type with filtrate flow of 0.025 M3/hr was used. A 500 Litres per day capacity plant is developed under the study. All the material used for fabricating the Membrane Bioreactor Plant was made of stainless steel.

Designed components for developed 500 litres per day capacity membrane bio reactor (MBR) system: Components of the designed MBR system: • Collection/Equalization tank The effluent is collected in the main collection tank and it is transferred to the collection tank close to the MBR plant via a pump.

• Oil and grease trap Grease traps are designed to separate and capture waste grease and solids before they enter the waste water.

They are used to reduce the amount of FOG that enters the main waste water system. All grease traps consist of a large tank. Water from the drain flows into the tank and settles. Solids sink to the bottom, while lightweight grease floats to the top; leaving clear water in the middle. The water flows through to a second tank and discharges to the next process through a small pipe. They are required to be cleaned regularly to avoid accumulation of excessive oil and grease.

• Dosing tank

ο Outer wear ο Cleaning textiles ο Sports wear ο Shoe fabric ο Flags ο Ground fabric

WRA has developed Membrane bioreactor (MBR) technology based 500 litres per day capacity Effluent treatment plant and installed at Mahadev woollen mill, Sundarganar (H.P.), for treating effluent water from wool processing.

from decentralized woolen, carpet sector

In order to settle the pollutants, alum and poly electrolyte dosing is carried out through dosing pumps in the dosing tank. On an average, around 1000 ppm alum and 20 ppm poly is sufficient to completely settle the wool scouring effluent. For dyeing effluents, this quantity would be much smaller.

• Primary settler tank www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES After the separation of the pollutants from the effluent water, it is allowed enough time to settle the pollutants so it is not transferred to the next process and removed as solid sludge from the settling tank.

For 500 litres per day effluent flow, the system is designed to provide 30 minutes settling time.

• Buffer tank After the settling takes place in the previous tank, effluent is transferred to the buffer tank where it is further allowed to settle and a pH correction is done to pH around 7.58 for anaerobic tank. There is a tank level sensor which starts the pump and transfers the effluent to the anaerobic digester once it is filled.Anaerobic DigesterThis is an optional tank added to the MBR system and its operation will depend on the effluent load of the industry. The pump transfers the effluent from the buffer tank to the anaerobic tank. in case the anaerobic operation is not required, it is directly bypassed to the aeration+MBR tank.

Fig.2 Anaerobic Digester\ Aeration MBR Tank

+

The Aeration+ MBR tank is the main system where microbes are used to degrade pollutants that are then filtered by a series of submerged membranes (or membrane elements). The individual membranes are housed in units known as modules and a combined series of these modules are referred to as a working membrane unit. Air is introduced through integral diffusers to continually scour membrane surfaces during filtration, facilitate mixing and to contribute oxygen to the biological process. The final treated water is removed through hollow fibre membrane system, chlorinated

and stored in the treated water tank.

The MBR system also has a provision to clean the membrane through backwashing and use of chemicals.

Fig.3 Aeration + MBR Tank

Fig.4 MBR based ETP .

TEXTILE PARK

HINGANGHAT INTEGRATED TEXTILE PARK PVT. LTD. HINGANGHAT, WARDHA (M/S) REWEAVING THE FABRIC OF VIDARBHA’S TEXTILE INDUSTRY Textile parks in Hinganghat have heralded prosperity to those involved and the growth is here to stay.

The twelfth five-year plan by the Government of India brought much joy to the textile industry by introducing the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks.

This translates into triggered textile growth across the country, especially in cotton growing region like ours.

The Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) was launched in 2005 to provide the industry with state of the art world-class infrastructure facilities for setting up their textile units. The scheme would facilitate textile units

November 2019

to meet international environmental and social standards.

The park scheme is being promoted

by Ministry of Textiles in line with Prime Minister Mr Narendra Modi’s scheme for integrated and cluster approach modeled on lines with China.

Around 20 parks have been approved under the new scheme, with around four in the state of Maharashtra. This scheme has recently been modified to promote new investments into textiles by first time entrepreneurs. The benefit of this model being short lead time in setting up units, with common buildings and utilities being set up by

www.textilevaluechain.com

the SPV, for efficient use.

SITP would create new parks of international standards at potential growth centers. The number of entrepreneurs and the resultant investments in each ITP could vary from project to project. However, aggregate investment in land, factory buildings and Plant & Machinery by the entrepreneurs in a Park shall be at-least twice the cost of common infrastructure proposed for the Park.

Units and processes functional at Hinganghat ITPGinning, twisting and doubling, Spinning, Knitting, Technical Textile, Weaving (48 looms), Pro-

31

TEXTILE PARK cessing, Garmenting, Fiber and Yarn Dyeing Project Rationale: Maharashtra is the growing textile region in the country with prime focus in skill development in textile sector. The State has prominent presence in spinning, technical textile and garmenting segment.

The Park envisages an integrated facility for about 11 units along with warping and sizing.

It has had a long history in textiles and Mumbai was the original home of India’s textile mills. Sholapur, Ichalkaranji, Malegaon and Bhiwandi are some of the cities known for the textile industry today.

Hinganghat was historically a centre of the Indian cotton trade. The Entrepreneurs in this region have aggressive intention to upgrade the technology of spinning, ginning, technical textile and garmenting with support technologies. By using skilled force to integrate the forward link in the textile value chain, a group of entrepreneurs, having long standing experience in the textile sector, have come forward to implement an integrated textile manufacturing complex with support facilities and infrastructure with international standards.

Project Objectives: To establish an integrated textile park at Hinganghat, Wardha District in Maharashtra State with state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities for Spinning, Ginning, Technical Textile, Yarn twisting and doubling, Knitting, Garmenting and Fibre, and Yarn Dyeing for domestic and export markets.

Nature of Entrepreneurs: Most of the promoters of the Park belong to families who have been engaged in spinning and weaving for decades. They have established fragmented small factories for spinning of yarn and weaving of fabrics and have business links all over the country for marketing. The entrepreneurs have to set up modern spinning and weaving units with the required backward linkages and forward integra-

32

tion into garmenting units. Except traditional textile business families, entrepreneurs interested in foraying into the textile business are welcome to setup their units at the equipped and convenient textile parks.

Operational and Financial Assessment of the Entrepreneurs: A detailed operational and financial assessment of the entrepreneurs has been carried out with a view to ascertaining their textile/other business experience as well as their financial strength.

The promoters are aggressive entrepreneurs and existing players in the textile industry and have sufficient experience of running large scale businesses. All the promoters/entrepreneurs have the financial resources to invest in the project.

Why operate from ITP? • Get access to reasonable value of land, common infrastructure and common utilities • Plug and play model for investment with minimum starting time for new units • Common infrastructure/utilities for roads, drainage, water supply, electricity, ETP, STP, workers and staff colony, warehousing facility etc.

• Reduced capital requirement ranging from 50% to 75% owing to availability of required common facilities and infrastructure • 45-70% capital subsidy on the investment depending upon the project • Power cost to be approximately INR = 3.5 or less • All government compliance and liasoning like pollution, boiler, labour, factory inspector, electrical etc available in-house • SGST refund in the range of 60%80% • Advantage of FSI= 1.00 for all buildings • Assistance for banking facilities, recruitment, training and development, quality assurance, marketing etc.

•

•

Reimbursement on training for workers up to INR 10,000 per worker along with dedicated training facility.

Access to common infrastructure like effluent treatment plant, telecom and IT Infra, sewage treatment, research labs, staff quarters, storage godown and administration.

Going the Cluster Way The current government is advocating the cluster approach to industrial development and regional growth.

On this backdrop, the textile park will prove to be instrumental in bringing all of textile industries together and create an influential establishment.

Advantage “Vidarbha • “Vidarbha is expected to get much-needed boost with a fresh investment of Rs 3,000 crore likely in textile sector through 26 projects. These new ventures have a potential to generate 3,500 new jobs,” • The state textile ministry had announced a new policy around two years ago in which an additional 10 per cent subsidy is given to investors coming to cotton growing regions of Vidarbha and Marathwada.

• To be Located in Central India having advantage of Logistic hub and potential for further growth.

• Ample availability of manpower in the region.

• Cotton production contribution of Vidarbha is about 66% of state of Maharashtra Production, hence essay availability of Raw Material on economical Price is additional advantage • Vidarbha is nowhere near to Being a textile manufacturing hub of Maharashtra.

• Nagpur Mumbai super communication Express way is more significant Agro-industrial development in the 20 district, which give it advantages due to connectivity to JNPT port.

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November 2019

November 2019

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33

Advt.

34

www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2019

Advt.

SWISS FORMULATIONS is a leading manufacturer & supplier of the ULTIMATE product for textile mill area where nowadays Cotton is preferred product for all and many parties are already manufacturing the quality product with different varieties.

We have a specialize product for sizing the Cotton yarn may be spun, OE or even slub, where we require better penetration and coating over the surface to withstand the heavy abrasion, stresses and strain during the weaving on high speed looms.

We are today supplying our above subject product in big quantity to well reputed huge units like M/S Mahmud Group – Dhaka (Bangaladesh) (200 Tons Per Month) And have different five specific product for cotton to blended and even for polyester spun yarn.

We may add here that the binding property and elongation property is well maintained by our Swiss Formulated elastomeric polymer leads to minimum warp break resulting into highest efficiency with longest length of faultless fabric, which realize the better packing ratio and rates and not only that the feel and the appearance is also improved on the finished fabric.

The product is designed on zero discharge basis and one do not require to drain it out hence the dead loss is controlled to highest extent, as one can use the material even after two days of preparation.

November 2019

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35

INTERVIEW TOUCHING LIVES THROUGH QUALITY ASSURANCE Benefits o f testing A benefit derived from testing includes compliance with specification, Avoidance of expensive recalls, Reduction of liability risk. Confidence building of customers, improved competitive edge, Guarantee for product quality etc.

New frameworks and techniques TESTTEX follows to provide high quality services and new area of Focus into new arenas.

MEETA SHINGALA Managing Director

Testtex India Laboratories Pvt. Ltd.

Inception and Motivation towards establishment of firm Two young enthusiastic persons Meeta and Bharat Shingala came together at a common platform. Both desired to do something differently, with main focus on Touching lives through Quality Assurance. With a vision and mission the idea of starting a testing & inspection facility to help the industry for quality assurance and upliftment was evolved .This has inbuilt strength of protection of consumer’s right for quality and safe products towards changing lifestyles. Modest beginning made in 1988 under the name Testtex India Analytical Laboratory transformed into today’s Testtex India Labor atories Pvt. Ltd.,

Testtex offers services related to testing, inspection and consultancy with the state of the art testing facility for chemical and biological parameters, utilizing team efforts of trained personnel. Testtex maintains good professional practices and provide quality services. Testtex continually improves the effectiveness of its services in confidential, complete, competitive, impartial and reliable manner so as to ensure maximum customer satisfaction. Testtex believe in expanding its scope of activity depending upon industry needs, such as evaluating biodegradability of packaging material, detection of harmful synthetic dyes, testing of allergens & vitamins in food products and chemicals & microbiological testing of cosmetics. Testtex constantly strive for new method development with specialized facilities of Testing overall and specific migration for packaging material, extend helping hand in selection and designing of packaging.

The core competency of TESTTEX and development plans Testtex has secured accreditation and approval of NABL, BIS, CPSC, ZDHC, GAFTA, APEDA, FSSAI, to remain ahead and updated with changing world scenario. Testtex is undertaking expansion in the field of GMO testing and certification.

Evaluation of the current landscape of textile industry

Major factors towards growth of company since its inception

India has been home to textiles since the old silk route.

Maintaining quality standards and compliance to various country specific regulations including ecological sustainability has always been a great challenge in International market.

Testtex provide full range of services for Testing, Inspection, and Consultancy involving raw material (dyes, chemicals, auxiliaries, etc.), product (fiber, yarn, apparel, footwear, bags, accessories, etc.), toys and other children articles testing to national & International Standards along with testing of effluent. Important parameters being construction particulars, color fastness to various agencies, physical & chemical properties, performance & appearance evaluation, flammability, microbiological, genetic analysis (GMO) & other specialized tests for CPSIA, California Proposition 65 and humano-ecological requirements.

Today, Testtex is present at ten global locations, with laboratories at Mumbai, Tirupur, Noida and Rajkot & collection centre’s at Ahmadabad, Kolkata, Ludhiana, Hongkong, Dubai and KSA.

Accreditation and importance of testing in an accredited lab Accreditation aims to achieve harmonization of activities.

Accreditation by any organization means meeting their work culture requirements in terms of documentation, qualified and experienced man power, use of specified methods and procedures, equipments and their calibration etc. Results reported by accreditated laboratory are considered to be highly reliable and accurate.

36

Sincere and hardwork coupled with desire to remain ahead through exchange of ideas and views along with minimum turnaround times has contributed to the growth of Testtex.

TESTTEX work culture and employee programme Testtex team’s current headcount exceeds 250. Testtex believes that its employees are its main resource. To uplift and motivate, need based training through Inhouse and onsite training programmes are imparted. Staff members are encouraged and deputed to attend seminars/ conferences.

Final Say… In addition to testing of textile & Leather products Testtex undertakes testing of effluents, Food and Beverages, chemical formulations, Toys, Packaged drinking water, Food contact materials, Packaging Materials, Helmets, Construction Materials, Cosmetics and other Consumer goods.

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November 2019

united states of america

Consumer product

NABL

safety commission

Bureau of Indian Standards

T e s t t e x provides full range of services for Testing, Inspection, and Consultancy involving raw material (dyes , chemicals , auxiliaries , etc.), product (fiber, yarn, apparel, footwear, bags, accessories, etc.) , toys and other children articles testing to National &

Important parameters being construction particulars, color fastness to various agencies, physical & chemical properties , performance & appearance evaluation , flammability , microbiological , genetic analysis ( GMO ) & other specialized tests , CPSIA , California Proposition 65 and

International Standards along with testing of effluent.

Level 1 ZDHC MRSL Conformance-Chemical Getway Testing Services

301-304 Premsons Industrial Estate, Caves Road, Jogeshwari (E), Mumbai- 400060 Ph- + 91-22-28259190 labsindia@testtex.com

November 2019

humano-ecological requirements.

20 KG Thottam, New Ramkrishnapuram Tirupur - 641607.

Ph + 91- 421- 2228588, 4218588 labsindiatirupur@testex.com

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C-57 Sector 65, Noida- 201307 (UP) labsindianoida@testtex.com

Plot No. 94, Kuvadva GIDC, 8 B, National Highway, Kuvada, 360003. Rajkot Ph: +91 9737411134/5 +91 9737411136/6 labsindiarajkot@testtex.com

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COMPANY UPDATE

IZABELLA MACHINEY We adopt a design-centric work approach and follow the concept of green engineering to deliver a market- leading products range that exhibits superior features like improved energy conservation, distinctive styling and matchless designs. Offering best quality Textile Industrial Cooling that has negligible breakdown issues, extreme weather resistance and seamless functioning for hours. We also operate in sync with an environmentally- sensitive work approach. For us, environment responsibility is not a mere business strategy. It is beyond that and percolates through our entire business model. We only fabricate environmentfriendly products, based on which we aim to capture a sizable share in the global market in a profitable but responsible manner.

Mission “Quality Comes First� We abide by a mission that entails us to provide the best possible we can to our partners, our customers, to each other and to the company as a whole. Since inception, we have been holding fast to a growth strategy, both organic and inorganic; so as to continually bring forth a product portfolio that aligns with ever-evolving requirements of our customers worldwide.

Our growth strategy revolves around three major objectives: Encouraging and investing on innovation to enhance product features as well as customer value.

Minimizing components and costs and improving execution in our entire value chain.

Engineering eco-friendly products that consume less energy and do not release any harmful by-products dur-

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ing use. Banking on our design innovation, today we boast of a wide portfolio of different products that suit requirements of both domestic and industrial air-cooling segment. Our range features design excellence, functional efficiency and style as key attributes. As a forward-looking industry player, we enjoy a distinct advantage in the domestic market and we have plans to evolve into a leading global name very soon.

Green Cooling Technology With increased global warming and environment a l degradation, designing environmentally-friendly products has become a key responsibility of industry leading manufacturers. A business should not only thrive by pocketing profits but must also act responsibly and offer green productsto its buyers.

We introduce eco friendly air cooling technologies as a better alternative to CFC emitting air-conditioners.

We believe a green and clean environment is the best possible legacy we can leave behind for our future generations.

Our Competitive Advantages We back products with warranty.

We manage a well knit service network and have trained executives and area service supervisors for promptly attending to customer queries. We offer periodic training sessions to our

engineers and technicians to keep them abreast of market trends.

Our Infrastructure We have a modern infrastructural setup for design, development and manufacturing Coolers. The facilitiesinclude a well equipped manufacturing plant to develop the proto types and final products. We have tool room facility and fabrication units to assemble components and do required fabrication works. The different facilities are managed and operated by experienced professionals who ensure timely delivery of products to earn total customer satisfaction.

Quality Assurance Being a quality conscious company, we focus on meeting the d e m a n d s as per their expectations.

To fulfill the requirements of quality and reliability, we follow a strict quality assurance program during the entire production phase. The manufacturing process is supervised by experts having rich domain experience. They ensure the selection of quality components, and raw materials used in the production prove. These professionals also make sure to test each manufactured product on various quality parameters to ascertain world class products.

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November 2019

Suryadarshan Apartment, Shop No. 14, 15, First Floor, Tahir Compund, Temghar Pipeline, Bhiwandi. 421302 (Dist Thane. MS.) E-mail : techhi50@gmail.com.

Mobile : +91 9823255514 / 9699760260 Box-type Wallboard Structure The strong and though frame is formed by the new wallboard at both sides and 4 pieces of cross beams. The middles supports under the beams have further strengthened the vibra�on resistance and the heavy machine body has laid a solid founda�on for the machine with the high speed and low noice.

For this goal, Haiying Textile Machinary has researched and developed Hy90 Airjet Loom through referrring to all kinds of weaving machines at home and abroad.

Hy90 has made detailed improvement high-speed adaptablity, products compatibility, operation ability, energy conservation and safety so as to help clients deal with the more and more competitive market environment.

Dobby Shedding Max 16 Heald Frames (Optional) Suitable for versatile plain, twill, satin and small jacquard weave with high additional value.

Beating-up-Machanism with High Speed Adaptability

Narrow Fabric Loom adopts 4-bar linkage beating-up mechanism with high speed adaptability. It has short beating-up stroke and small vibration when it runs at high speed so that it can beat up forcefully and steadily.

Broad Loom adopts 6-bar linkage beating-up mechanism with longer post-center stillness time in order to improve the stready weft running.

Jacquard Shedding (Optional)

Unifi led Lubricating System Main transmission parts (Casting Parts) is lubricated by oil bath and others are lubricated by centralized oil supplying system.

Automatic oil suppliying device can automatically lubricate equipment by the instructions on display

November 2019

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November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES

INSPECTION, FOLDING, ROLLING MACHINE FOR GREY & FINISH FABRIC. Loom Roll or Loose to Roll.

Airjet & Sultzer Loom etc.

2. For Finish Woven Fabric,

(D) Folding M/cs.

Big Batch to Roll on Paper Tube.

(With Central Big Batch Unwinder)

Conventional Folding M/c. Single Fold & Double Fold.

machines out of his accumulated experience in the field of Textile Industries.

Big Batch to Big Batch or Roll on Paper Tube. (With Central Big Batch Unwinder & Winder)- Mapping cum rolling m/c.

Folding M/c. with motorized table movement for finish fabric.

We manufacture the following,

Loose to Roll on Paper Tube.

(A) A. C. variable speed Inspection M/c.

Surface Unwinder, Winder can also be supplied in case of Big Batch.

1. For Grey Woven Fabric,

(B) A. C. variable speed Rolling or Big Batching.

D.S. TOPIWALA ENTERPRIS Since more than 3 decades in the field of manufacturing, the pioneer of the enterprise Mr.Shankerbhai N. Topiwala has developed the Inspection, Rolling (Winding – Batching), Folding

Loom roll to Roll.

Loom Roll or Loose to Roll or Loose.

Loose to Loose.

Loose to Roll or Big Batch.

Roll to Big Batch.

A. C. Variable speed High Stack Folding m/c.

(E) A. C. variable speed Inspection M/c. for Knitted Fabric. Loose or Roll to Roll.

(F) Electromagnetic Cloth Guiders.

All above M/c. can be manufactured as per your requirement & specifications.

(C) Loom Batching Motion for Rapier,

IMPORTANCE OF TESTING lish credibility.

Testing can also be defined as S.V.MOHILE the procedures adopted to determine a product’s suitabilDirector ity and quality.

Attirebin Sample Textile testing Development Pvt Ltd is the term for a whole series of tests that examine the physical, meWhat is Textile Te sting? chanical and chemical properties of The quality of a product or process textiles. Testing can ensure that a givis checked before it is put into largeen textile is what a manufacturer or scale usage. The quality of the prodimporter says it is. Sometimes, testuct, its performance, and its reliabiling is done while textiles are being ity are the key factors while testing manufactured, to identify problems is performed. Testing can be defined or faults in the machinery making as the methods or protocols adopted them, and to double-check that mato verify/determine the properties of terials being used for a specific textile a product. It can be divided primarily are appropriate. into two types: regular process testing and quality assurance testing. Quality Textile testing is a key in gauging assurance testing helps the process product quality, ensuring regulatory or product in the long run to estab- compliance and assessing the per-

November 2019

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formance of textile materials. It is a vital basic tool during the processing of a textile raw material into the product. It also helps the distributors and consumer to determine the end product’s quality. It can include the analysis of the property of a known or an unknown material. So, textile testing refers to the procedures adopted to determine quality throughout the textile product chain. It can be summarized as the application of engineering facts and science to determine the quality and properties of a textile product. Mainly it involves the use of techniques, tools, instruments and machines in the lab for the evaluation of the properties of these different forms of textiles.

So textile testing can be defined as: “Applying engineering knowledge and science to detect the criteria and properties of any textile material or product (such as fibre, yarn, fabric).”

Objectives of textile testing:

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TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES The main objective of textile testing are: • To check the quality and suitability of raw material • To monitor the production (process control) • To assess the quality of final product • To investigate the faulty materials • To set standards or benchmarks • For R&D (research and development) purpose • For new product development We can elaborate objectives of textile testing in the following ways: • For researchers, testing results aid the development of new products or new processes, which can save money and resources before production starts on an industrial scale. They also help in the choosing of the best possible route to achieve the end product.

• Testing helps in the selection of the best possible raw materials. “Raw material” is a relative term; for example, fibre is the raw material for spinning, and yarn is the raw material for weaving.

• Testing helps in the process control through the use of advanced textile process-control techniques.

• Testing ensures the right product is shipped to the consumer or customer and that the product meets the customer specifications.

Testing in general, and textile testing in particular, is affected by the following factors: Atmospheric conditions affect test results as textile products are greatly influenced by moisture and humidity. The test method adopted will also cause variation in test results. The testing instrument is also a vital part and, if not properly calibrated, can cause serious variation. Human error is another source of variation.

Textile testing starts with textile fibre and goes all the way through to the final product. The fibre test includes the length, strength, elongation, fineness, and maturity. The yarn test

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includes linear density, single yarn strength, yarn evenness, and yarn hairiness. The fabric test includes aerial density, weave type, and air permeability.

when it’s rubbed against another surface. Such tests make sure that fabrics used in products like parachutes and car seat belts won’t break when needed most to keep the user safe.

In order to carry out the testing of the textile products, a well-equipped laboratory with a wide range of testing equipment is needed. Well-trained operators are also a prerequisite for the running of the laboratory. The cost of establishing and running the lab is non-productive and is added to the cost of the final product. These non-productive costs increase the cost of the final product and therefore make it an expensive trade.

Therefore, it is vital that testing is not performed without accumulation of some payback to the end product.

Testing is carried out at a number of points in a production cycle to improve the quality of the product.

Other tests are chemical tests, in which a textile is analyzed through chemical means to determine what it contains. These tests are often done in laboratories, and they’re important to determine whether textiles might have harmful substances in them like lead or other heavy metals, banned chemical dyes or pesticides that could possibly endanger the consumer.

Methods of Textile Testing There are many textile tests, some of them are physical tests, in which a sample of textile material is examined closely for feel and appearance.

Such tests are done on individual fibers or strands of material and on yarns, threads made of several fibers twisted together. Textiles are also subjected to light and other elements to see how they react. Some of these tests are done in a weather-ometer, a machine that tests for weathering and lightfastness of textiles. It’s basically an enclosed box. Textiles are placed inside and subjected to conditions replicated from the natural environment.

Mechanical tests are those in which textiles are subjected to different pressure and stressors, usually in specialized testing machines. These include tests to measure breaking strength, the force needed to break a fabric under tension. Such tests can ensure fabrics are strong enough to maintain integrity even when under great stress. Other tests gauge tearing strength, or the strength required to make an already existing rip or tear worse. And abrasion tests determine how quickly a textile wears out

Specialized textile testing is also done to test for flammability, or how quickly a given textile burns. Various methods of performance testing are done on textiles that must possess special qualities, like be effectively bulletproof or provide a layer of filtering on construction projects. In short, there are as many ways to test textiles as there are uses for textile products in our world.

Importance of textile testing: Principle importance of textile testing are; 1. To ensure the product quality 2. To control the manufacturing process 3. For customer satisfaction and retention 4. Good reputation (brand image) among consumers Testing importantly supports the personnel involved in the textile supply chain, from the textile fibre to the end product. The testing of textile products aids persons involved in the running of the production line.

During testing, the discrepancy of the product, for example, its strength, maturity, waste percentage (for fibres), aerial density, and weave design (for fabrics), is properly measured. Thus the selection of the proper raw material is an important factor. Standards of control should be maintained to reduce waste, minimize price, and so on. Faulty machine parts or improper

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November 2019

TEXTILE TESTING UPDATES maintenance of the machines can be easily detected with the help of textile testing. Improved, less costly, and faster protocols can be developed by researchers with the aid of testing.

The efficiency and quality of the product can also be enhanced with the help of regular and periodic testing.

Customer satisfaction and loyalty can also be won by producing according to customer specification in good time. In short, testing is an essential pivot to the whole textile product supply chain.

The cycle of testing starts with the arrival of raw material and continues up to delivery of the final product. The production of the required end quality is impossible if the raw material is incorrect. The textile product supply chain comprises different processes, which include the raw material (natural or man-made fiber), yarn manufacturing, fabric manufacturing, textile processing, and apparel and home furnishing manufacturing. It also includes some industrial products, like ropes, cords, and conveyer belts. All the aforementioned processes are performed in separate units or in a single unit if the establishment is a vertical production unit.

So the raw material for a spinning unit is fibre, for a weaving unit is yarn, for a textile processing unit is grey fabric,

and so on. “Raw material” is a relative term that depends upon the further process for which it is used. Its testing is an important step, as improper raw material or low grade raw material will not yield the required quality of the end product. The testing of raw material is also performed to verify whether the incoming material accords with the trade agreement. Its consignment is therefore accepted or rejected on the basis of test results.

The agreed specifications should be realistic so that the incoming raw material properties can meet the required level easily.

Production monitoring involves the testing of production line samples, which is termed “quality control.” Its purpose is to sustain certain definite properties of the end product within acceptable tolerance limits as per the agreement between the producer and the consumer. A product that does not meet the already agreed specification or the required quality will be termed a “fail.”

The proper testing protocol as well as proper monitoring are also required. The sampling techniques in use should also be selected properly, since the wrong selection could lead to serious problems. At the same time, the statistical tool employed is also an important factor. The collection of data is one thing, but its prop-

er evaluation and interpretation, and the action taken on the basis of it, is an important factor in quality control.

Textile testing is vital to identify the particular cause of that fault so that it can be avoided in future consignments. It will also help to rectify the running process and enable it to run more smoothly so that the final product accords with the customer’s requirement. It also helps to isolate the faulty part or machine so as to resolve any dispute between the supplier and the producer.

Testing is done primarily to test the quality and there are different ways to carry out a test. Sometimes, different principles and instruments may be employed to test a single criterion.

Hence it is important to standardize the testing methods or procedures.

Various national and international organizations have established standards for textile testing.

Conclusion: • To select proper raw material required for spinning, weaving, apparel, etc.

• Testing is done to improve the quality of the product.

• To make innovations in textile material through research & development.

NEWS

A2LA ACCREDITS MICROBAN’S BBI TEST LABS

B BI Test Labs, the testing service of Microban International, Ltd., a leader in antimicrobial and odour control technology is now accredited by the American Association for Laboratory Accreditation (A2LA) to the ISO 17025 standard (Certificate No. 5298.01).

“I couldn’t be more proud of our team for achieving this milestone. It is truly an honour and I applaud the level of dedication it took from our team to validate our test methods,“ commented Ivan Ong, Vice President of Research and Development. “This ac-

November 2019

creditation is a testament to how our labs operate with both quality and competence at the forefront. Thank you to the A2LA staff for recognizing this and guiding us through the entire process.”

According to Microban, achieving ISO/ IEC 17025 accreditation by A2LA is the pinnacle in third-party laboratory accreditation, as it confirms that laboratories have management, quality and technical systems in place to ensure accurate and reliable analysis, as well as proper administrative processes to

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ensure that all aspects related to the sample, the analysis and the reporting are standardized, measured and monitored.

“This accreditation deems the microbiology laboratory of BBI Test Labs to be technically competent to conduct mould identification and industry-standard antimicrobial efficacy testing on industrial and consumer products: textile materials, building materials, paints and coating, paper, plastics and polymers,” the company said in a statement.

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WASTE WATER TREATMENT DESIGN AND OPERATION OF TEXTILE WASTEWATER TREATMENT PLANTS AND WATER RECOVERY IN INDIA AND BANGLADESH FILIPPO BRIANI Hydrotech Engineering

Abstract The best practices for the treatment of the textile wastewater consent the recovery and reuse of this water.

The present publication identifies the critical parameters for the design of wastewater treatment. It describes the available technologies for the water recovery and the Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD). The ZLD process consists of a multi-stage treatment. The first part of the treatment reduces the organic load (biological degradation process) and the second part is carried out with a series of filtration processes. The concentrate produced by filtration section must be treated by evaporation. Finally, we compare the operation of two different processes, both based on membrane filtration, for a case-study of 6,000 m3/day plant for the treatment of cotton yarn dyeing effluent. The first process that is analyzed includes the sequence of purification steps listed: 1. Screening; 2. Homogenisation; 3. Cooling Tower; 4. biological unit; 5. Multimedia filters; 6. Capillary Ultrafiltration; 7. Softener; 8. Multistage Reverse Osmosis; 9. Multi-Effect Evaporator.

The second process that is analyzed includes the sequence of purification steps listed: 1. Screening; 2. Homogenisation, 3. Cooling Tower; 4. MBR; 5. Softener, 6. Multistage Reverse Osmosis; 7. Multi-Effect Evaporator. The operation and the running costs are described in detail. Which technology do you prefer between a conventional biological plant combined with multimedia filters and capillary ultrafiltration or MBR? The answer can-

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not consider only running costs but also other decisive factors (available space, process flexibility, membrane replacement cost, membrane cleaning).

1 Textile industry The textile industry is an ever-growing market. Global Textile Market will reach 1,207 Billion USD by 2025 (data from Zion Market Research). China, European Union, India and United States dominate the global textile industry. China is the leading textile manufacturing country and is almost worth 1/4th of the global textile. The textile industry of the European Union has Germany, Spain, France, Italy and Portugal on the forefront with a value of more than 1/5th of the global textile industry. India is the third largest textile manufacturing industry. India is responsible for more than 6% of the total textile production globally.

The textile sector is highly competitive, sales prices are moderate, and the margin is very low. The adoption of technological solutions that aim to save resources, such as the recovery and reuse of process water, is useful to increase competitiveness and margin.

1.1 Indian textiles industry India’s textiles sector is one of the oldest industries in Indian economy and it is one of the largest contributors to India’s exports with approximately 11 per cent of total exports. The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around 108 billion USD, is expected to reach 223 billion USD by 2021.

The industry is the second largest employer after agriculture, providing employment to over 45 million people directly and 60 million people indirectly. The Indian Textile Industry contributes approximately 5 per cent

to India’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP), and 14 per cent to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP).

India is the second largest producer and exporter of cotton in the world at 6.3 billion USD, marginally close to China. India has emerged as the largest producer of cotton in the world with the production of 345 lakh bales in 2016-17 and second largest exporter after China. India is the largest producer of jute in the world and it is the second largest producer of silk in the world, producing around 18 per cent of the world’s total silk.

For more than a decade the legislation in force in India for new production sites has forced companies, in most of the country, to install ZLD plants for the recovery and reuse of wastewater.

1.2 Textiles industry in Bangladesh The importance of the textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is very high. Some economic data follows to understand the textile industry in Bangladesh: - Investment in the Primary Textile Sector: over 6 billion USD. - Textile sector contributes around 13% in Gross Domestic Product (GDP).

- Over 86% of the export earning comes from Textiles & Textile related products.

- Around 85-90% yarn demand for knit Readymade Garment (RMG) and 35-40% yarn demand for woven RMG are met by Primary Textile Sector (PTS).

- Local fabric demand & the yarn demand for handloom are also met

by Primary Textile Sector (PTS).

- Total Export of the country 37,000 million USD (July 2016 to June

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WASTE WATER TREATMENT 2017). Out of 37,000 Textile & Clothing export is 31,273 million USD which is around 84.52% of the total export.

- The legislation in force in Bangladesh for new production sites does not oblige companies to install ZLD facilities for the recovery and reuse of wastewater. This option is only a proposal for a new law and the political discussion is still ongoing.

1.3 Textiles industry pollution The textile industry is composed of a wide number of sub-sectors, covering the entire production cycle from the production of raw materials (man-made fibers) to semi-processed (yarn, woven and knitted fabrics with their finishing processes) and final products (carpets, home textiles, clothing and industrial use textiles).

In the above cases, the contributions to pollution are: - Air pollution - Process water pollution - Chemicals consumption - Energy consumption - CO2. emissions In this publication, we deal with the process water pollution, among the most important of those listed.

When the treated wastewater is drained, the process water volumes must be daily restored with fresh water. Normally the water used comes from surface sources or freshwater wells. The depuration, recycling and reuse of the same water in the production process make it possible to reduce this contribution.

In normal condition, the recycling allows the water recovery from 50% of process water up to Zero Liquid Discharge, which is the best result and the topic of this publication.

The variety of raw materials (cotton, wool, silk, synthetic fibers), of treatments and processes, of dyes and additives requires the wastewater

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treatment plant to be designed on a case by case basis. Despite this complexity, it is possible to identify the critical and determinant parameters of the wastewater for the design of a ZLD plant: temperature, COD, color, salinity. Case by case, in wastewater there are: dyes and auxiliaries (e.g. dispersing and levelling agents), sizing agent (PVA), spinning lubricants and knitting oils, impurities removed from the fabric, chemicals from previous processes, detergents and other auxiliaries used during washing, organic halogenated solvents.

In this publication we present our ZLD solutions in the case-study of 6,000 m3/day plant for the treatment of cotton yarn dyeing.

2 ZLD: basic process stage-bystage The ZLD process consists of a multistage treatment. The first part of the treatment reduces the organic load (biological degradation process) and the second part is carried out with a series of filtration processes. The concentrate produced by reverse osmosis concentration must be treated by evaporation.

The sequence of steps of the wastewater depuration is listed below. In this publication two different solutions are presented, both provided on membrane filtration processes. The two solutions differ only in the phase of separation of biological sludge and following filtration, upstream of the reverse osmosis. In the first solution, which we will later call conventional, there are the following steps: a. sedimentation b. a safety pre-filtration with multimedia filters (MMF) c. a capillary ultrafiltration (UF) The second solution utilizes the MBR technology, Membrane BioReactor.

The MBR section does the same function just in one step replacing the three steps listed above.

The conventional solution includes the complete sequence: 1. Screening; 2. Homogenisation; 3. Cooling Tower;

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4. Conventional Biological unit; 5.

Multimedia filters; 6. Capillary Ultrafiltration; 7. Softener; 8. Multistage Reverse Osmosis; 9. Multi-Effect Evaporator.

2.1 Screening The aim of this section is the separation of the gross solid content, to avoid sedimentation and obstruction in the following process steps.

The wastewater, coming from the textile production, before arriving to the collecting pit, undergoes to a coarse screening followed by a fine screening.

The fine screening unit is normally an automatic self-cleaning, brush type.

In the fine screening unit, the filtration is done through a mesh with circular holes. This conformation with the circular holes is the most suitable geometric conformation to retain the suspended fibrous solids, typical for the textile industry. The required filtration degree is 2 mm.

2.2 Homogenisation This step of the process is simple but very important, as its aim is to keep as much constant as possible the feeding to the oxidation phase with reference to polluting parameters and flow.

In this section, air is used to move and mix the whole wastewater as well as to avoid the development of anaerobic fermentation areas inside the accumulation unit, which may produce bad smell.

2.3 Cooling Tower The wastewater from textile industry is normally hot, up to temperature of 65 °C. A cooling tower regulates the temperature to the optimal value (less than 38 °C) for subsequent treatment with activated sludge.

2.4 Activated sludge biological plant Feeding to the biological step is realised by means of a pump system that transfers the water assuring during

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WASTE WATER TREATMENT the 24 hours at constant flow rate.

This constant feeding lets the biological unit to work in the better way.

The feeding with nutrients salts consists of a feeding station with nutrients salts of phosphor and/or nitrogen, necessary for the life of microorganisms in the oxidation unit.

The flow, that comes from the homogenisation step, is mixed with the activated sludge which depurates the wastewater into the oxidation tank. In this tank the pollutants are oxidised by the activated sludge thanks to the oxygen given by the blowers and turn it to carbon dioxide. In the activated sludge tank, a new biomass grows and periodically must be evacuated (excess sludge).

The necessary oxygen is supplied through a net of air-diffusers, generating air-fine bubbles, getting a high yield of dissolved oxygen.

At the same time, the rising air bubbles create a whirling movement and a complete mixture between the bacteria and the wastewater.

The blown-in air comes from blower units with adjustable flow, that can grant the right quantity of oxygen.

A further advantage of blown-in air is that it does not create any aerosol effect; therefore, it does not produce bad smell.

An oxygen transmitter that automatically varies the quantity of blown-in air controls the process. So, it avoids both anoxemia and high oxidation that would have negative consequences for the bacterial flora and for the outlet water quality. Furthermore, we can always keep a constant quantity of dissolved oxygen, even when the polluting organic load varies.

that that the colour removal after this step is not a critical parameter for the subsequent membrane filtration step. Therefore, in a ZLD plant it is not essential to dose decolorizing reagents at this phase of the treatment.

Another very important feature for the design of the aerobic process of the textile wastewater is the low ratio BOD / COD. Biological processes biological processes must be sized with a low F / M ratio, in the range 0.07รท0.09 kg BOD / kg MLSS per day.

2.5 Sedimentation (conventional solution) The aim of this step is to clarify the effluent coming from the oxidation tank and to allow the settled sludge recirculation.

After biological oxidation phase the mixed liquor arrives by gravity to the final circular sedimentation tank provided with scraping bridge.

The biological sludge deposits by gravity at the tank bottom and from there it is conveyed by the bottom blade of the scraping bridge into the central hopper, connected to the sludge recirculation pit where the sludge recycling pumps are positioned.

The depurated waters that separate in the upper side of the sedimentation tank are collected in a peripheral channel and then discharged by gravity.

2.6 Multimedia filters (conventional solution) In this treatment step, the filtration is carried out through a granular bed

of quartz sand with dimensions of 1 mm. These are suitable for the specific purpose of selectively retaining suspended substances for the ultrafiltration membrane protection.

2.7 Capillary ultrafiltration (conventional solution) This technology is used for the total suspended solids removal.

The ultrafiltration process is a pressure-driven process that achieves separation through size exclusion depending on the pore size in the membranes. The ultrafiltration unit separates fine particles, suspended solids, colloidal matter, microorganisms and low molecular weight substances.

Capillary ultrafiltration membranes reject solutes ranging in size from 0.03 microns approx.

2.8 MBR system (alternative to 2.5, 2.6 and 2.7) In the MBR system the ultrafiltration membranes are submerged, and the biological sludge is filtered directly.

The separation of biological sludge with membranes can be done with membranes with different degrees of filtration. For the ZLD plant, it is important to use ultrafiltration membranes and not microfiltration membranes, although also this second type of membrane is used for the realization of MBR systems.

2.9 Softening and Dealkalinisation After the ultrafiltration step (conventional or MBR), to minimize running costs, the multistage reverse osmosis must concentrate as much water

This section allows the water preparation for membrane treatment; in particular, this section reduces the COD, TSS and TOC parameters.

The aerobic process is not very efficient in reducing colours, in particular reactive colours. In case of the ZLD plant, our experience demonstrates

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Fig. 1: Capillary ultrafiltration unit

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WASTE WATER TREATMENT as possible. Therefore, it is necessary to condition the water so that there is no scaling (precipitation of insoluble salts) on the membranes using a softening and dealkalinisation unit.

This unit is composed of filters loaded with ion exchange resin of the weak cationic type. This type of resin guarantees the achievement of our aim

with the minimum possible consumption of regenerating product. A positive impact is thus obtained on the overall mass balance, reducing the amount of water to be evaporated.

3 Conventional bioreactor+ MMF+ UF+ vs MBR Tab. 1: Conventional bioreactor + MMF + capillary UF vs MBR

LEGEND: - Disadvantage + Advantage ++ Really good

can be avoided.

NOTE2 – SLUDGE CARRYOVER: Nor-

This section allows the total solids removal and concentration. It produces a permeate with low TDS, completely colorless and directly reusable in the production process. The main aim is the maximum possible recovery with minimum energy consumption. For this purpose, we have developed a series of reverse osmosis units, called multistage treatment. Normally, in these units the concentration sequence is performed in three sequential stages with increasing pressure.

In the case study, we will see that this solution allows to obtain a very low energy consumption. The latter is the most significant parameter of running costs.

We produce machines with total recovery up to 92-93%. The critical parameters for the aim are: silica, COD less than 160 ppm, hardness and alkalinity.

November 2019

hypochlorite, decolourant etc. in the clarifier feeding stream can control for instance the bulking / colour / sludge carryover etc. phenomena and trials can be conducted without effecting the flow. In the MBR configuration we can’t use any chemicals without a careful membrane impact analysis, and we can’t push the production above some limits, even for short time, because the MBR membranes operate under vacuum. The capillary UF membranes allow to increase the filtration pressure in a wider range, because they operated under pressure.

NOTE4 – RUNNING COST: The specific energy cost per cubic meter of treated water for the MBR compared with conventional configuration are normally higher.

NOTE5 – MEMBRANE REPLACEMENT

Conventional Characteristics

2.10 Multistage reverse osmosis Fig. 2: Three stage reverse osmosis unit

NOTE1 – FOOTPRINT AND CIVIL COST: MBR membrane tanks are smaller than tanks of conventional configuration. With MBR technology adoption, the installation of MMF and capillary UF machines

the conventional configuration allows more flexibility: some chemical dosing like sodium

bioreactor + MMF

MBR

Notes

+ capillary UF Footprint

-

+

NOTE1

Civil cost

-

+

NOTE1

Sludge carryover

-

+

NOTE2

Process flexibility

++

-

NOTE3

Running cost

+

-

NOTE4

replacement

++

-

NOTE 5

cleaning

++

-

NOTE 6

Plant modularity: possible

+

-

+

-

Membrane cost Membrane flexibility

expansion feasibility Capital cost

mally, when the biological process conditions cause a sludge carryover, the same conditions cause a flow reduction in the MBR configuration.

Biological process conditions do not depend on MBR or conventional adopted technology.

NOTE3 – PROCESS FLEXIBILITY: In case of biological process disturbs,

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NOTE 7

COST: Considering a life cycle of 3 years only (normally the life cycle is longer) for the capillary UF membranes and of 8 years for the MBR membranes, the MBR membranes replacement specific cost for cubic meter of treated water are more expensive.

NOTE6

–

MEMBRANE

CLEANING

47

WASTE WATER TREATMENT FLEXIBILITY: The recovery chemical cleaning of the capillary UF membranes is totally automatic, it is executed in 2÷3 hours and the service water consumption is minimal.

The recovery chemical cleaning of the MBR membranes is a procedure with an intensive time (8÷10 hours) and manpower consumption, even the amount of service water required is higher (the membranes lodging tanks must be totally filled with cleaning solution and washing solution).

NOTE7 – CAPITAL COST: Even if in case of MBR technology adoption we don’t install the MMF and UF machines, the MBR is more expensive, in the range 5÷10%.

For evaporator costs it is also necessary to add steam in Consumables

Conventional configuration [USD/day]

[USD/day]

UF membranes

230.137

361.644

RO – safety pre filtration cartridges

55.000

55.000

RO – I stage

151.233

151.233

RO – II stage

87.123

87.123

58.082

58.082

0.097

0.119

RO – III stage Total specific consumables cost

4 Case-study: 6,000 m3/day ZLD plant We present our case-study for the design and operation of a treatment plant of cotton yarn dyeing 6,000 m3/d in India.We list the inlet water critical parameters for the de-

USD/m3

the range 18-20 kg / m3 of effluent.

Tab. 4: Chemical consumption

Parameters

Values

Tab. 5: Consumables costs

Temperature

50 °C

5 Conclusions and future goals

pH

9÷12

5.1 Conclusions

COD

2,200 ppm

BOD

900 ppm

TSS

700 ppm

TDS

In this publication we wanted to share our experience in the construction of ZLD plants for the textile industry. We compared the two treatment processes we developed and

600 ppm

Total Alkalinity

2,000 ppm CaCO3

sign of ZLD plant and we analyse in detail the calculated running costs.

4.1 Inlet water characteristics Conventional Energy consumption

MBR

configuration [kWh/m3]

[kWh/m3]

Homogenisation and bioreactor

1.72

Multimedia filters

0.14

Ultrafiltration machine

0.12

Softening and alkalinisation

0.11

0.11

Multistage reverse osmosis machine

1.28

1.28

Evaporator

0.50

0.50

TOTAL ENERGY CONSUMPTION

3.87

3.81

1.92

Tab. 2: Inlet water characteristics

4.2 Running costs: conventional bioreactor + MMF + capillary UF vs MBR Product

Conventional

MBR

configuration Sulphuric acid Hydrochloric acid Polyelectrolyte Sodium hypochlorite Citric acid Chemical for membranes cleaning Nutrients Sodium hydroxide

[ppm]

[ppm]

1,128

1,128

525

520

6

6

20

13

0

5

5.5

5.5

0

0

42

37

Sodium metabisulfite

3

3

Antiscalant

3

3

0.5

0.5

Biocide

Tab. 3: Energy consumption

48

MBR

that currently, in different forms, are the most adopted in the market. Analyzing the running costs in detail, we can see that the two solutions do not present substantial differences in energy consumption. The most critical points of the entire treatment process regarding energy consumption are the biological oxidation section and the reverse osmosis section. Also, regarding the consumption of chemical products there are no particular differences.

As far as the impact of the membranes is concerned, there is a slight advantage of the conventional system which, however, has the disadvantage of having a greater footprint.

In any case, the ZLD is not an “impossible” technology.

Installation and running costs are consolidated. In some scenarios the scarcity or the high price of water can make this process an interesting option also from an economic point of view and not only from the point of view of environmental compliance. In the case study analyzed, with the specific costs of the Indian market for electricity and consumption of chemical products, the running cost is 1.20 USD/m3 (sludge disposal excluded).

5.2 Future goals: recovery of mixed salts Our next goal is to achieve an effective and efficient treatment of mixed salts, outlet of the multi-effect evaporator.

We are studying new techniques for the recovery and reuse of the salts themselves and the reduction of the quantity of pollutants to be disposed of.

We are studying the advantages of recovering NaCl salt with membrane filtration processes and recovering Na2SO4 salt with fractional crystallization. www.textilevaluechain.com

November 2019

WASTE WATER TREATMENT

CONTROL OF CHEMICALS IN GOTS GOODS As the world´s leading standard for processing of organic fibres, GOTS covers not only the use of organic fibres, but also requires conformance with stringent environmental and social criteria throughout the textile processing chain. The industry uses various amounts of chemicals during textile processing. The wastewater produced in this process contains large amounts of dyes and chemicals.

This factsheet highlights the Control of Chemicals in GOTS Goods.

The standard criteria exercises control on hazardous chemicals at three different stages: Stage 1: Approval Prior to Use Stage 2: Processed Main Textile Material Stage 3: Accessories and Additional Fibres Stage 1: Approval Prior to Use All GOTS approved chemical inputs are screened in detail before they are used for wet processing of GOTS certified textile articles.

• Any chemical inputs used for processing of GOTS Goods shall be approved prior to use.

• Inputs, which need to be approved include dyes, pigments, inks, chemicals, auxiliaries, nonGMO enzymes, sizing agents, waxes, oils, etc.

• The basis for their assessment is the detailed Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) and testing as per Risk Assessment of the product.

• Besides, additional toxicological and environmental data, such as CMR substances, biodegradability, etc. is analysed.

• Toxicity to human health as well

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•

•

• •

as environment is included in GOTS Approval process for chemical inputs.

Fresh testing on animals is prohibited. Toxicity shall be calculated, or alternate test methods shall be used.

Detailed requirements about the Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) are covered in the GOTS Implementation Manual 5.0.

Same rules apply to inputs from natural origins.

This is to ensure that no hazardous substances are passed on to the GOTS Goods, which might have crept in during extraction, storage, application etc.

For more details on approval of low impact chemicals and the MRSL, please refer to Section 2.3 of GOTS Version 5.0 and the Implementation Manual 5.0.

Stage 2: Processed Main Textile Material Main textile material comprises of at least 70% certified organic fibres and up to 30% additional fibres. GOTS Approved inputs shall be used to process GOTS Goods. For example, if disperse dyes are used to dye the recycled polyester fibre component in a GOTS certified facility, they shall be GOTS approved, too.

• GOTS certified textile processing units have access to ‘GOTS Approved Additives’ a list of more than 20,000 trade names of GOTS approved inputs and their respective suppliers.

• As a further protection step, GOTS Goods are subject to testing for residues of hazardous substances.

• Certified Entities and GOTS Approved Certifiers undertake testing of end products as per Risk Assessment.

• Processing should be done with minimal use of chemicals.

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•

Restricted Substance List (RSL) is given in Section 2.4.15 of GOTS Version 5.0.

Stage 3: Accessories and Additional Fibres GOTS permits use of some accessories and additional fibres for functionality and fashion needs. To protect consumers, Certified Entities and GOTS Approved Certifiers shall ensure that the accessories and additional fibres used in GOTS Goods shall be free from hazardous substances.

RSL for additional fibre materials and accessories is given in Section 2.4.16 of GOTS Version 5.0. To avoid double working, accessories and additional fibres certified to Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex are acceptable. Further, conformance to Section 2.4.9 of GOTS Version 5.0 is mandatory for accessories and additional fibres.

Besides the use of GOTS approved inputs, there are numerous norms for GOTS certified textile processing facilities. These include: Environment and Workers’ Safety at Textile Processing Facilities • The wet processing facilities have a functional Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP).

• The ETP remains functional throughout the year irrespective of the fibre composition of the orders at hand.

• Environmental Data is collected and reported for GOTS annual inspections.

• Criteria for textile processing facilities include Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) for workers.

• Workers are trained for safe handling and storage of chemicals.

• Safe working conditions include building & fire safety as well as fire safety drills.

Chemical Groups Covered Chemical groups of concern are covered in GOTS criteria. This list is not

49

WASTE WATER TREATMENT exhaustive. For all categories and individual chemical names and/or CAS numbers, please refer to GOTS Version 5.0 and Implementation Manual 5.0.

Alkylphenols and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates Allergenic or Carcinogenic Disperse Dyes Adsorbable Organic Halides (AOX) Aromatic Solvents Arylamines with carcinogenic properties

Glyoxal Halogen containing compounds Halogenated solvents

These include but are not limited to

Heavy metals Medium-Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (MCCP) Nanoparticles

Per-fluorinated compounds Pesticides

Chlorophenols (including their salts and esters)

Plasticizers

Complexing agents and surfactants

Polycyclic (PAH)

Endocrine disruptors

Poly-fluorinated compounds

Flame retardants

Quaternary ammonium compounds

Formaldehyde

Short-chain aldehydes

Genetically (GMO)

Modified

Organisms

Aromatic

Short-Chain (SCCP)

Hydrocarbons

Chlorinated

• Prop 65, California, USA • EN 71-3, EU • ZDHC Level 1

Organotin compounds

Phthalates

• CPSIA, USA

• REACH, EU

Ortho phenylphenol (OPP)

Chlorinated benzenes

GOTS covers the requirements for chemical safety put forward by major public / private initiatives.

GOTS applies a strong system to control and limit the use of hazardous chemicals. The criteria in place provide not only robust solutions for chemical safety in the wet processing of textiles but also serve as a risk management tool for the product and the business alike. GOTS Goods are manufactured in a socially and environmentally responsible manner. They are safe for the consumer and for the planet.

Paraffins

NEW METHODS CAN REDUCE EMISSIONS FROM THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY The dyeing of textiles has a major negative impact on the environment. Now, a new method for degrading the dyes and purifying the waste water has been developed at the University of Borås.

MAY KAHOUSH

consumes large amounts of water and energy and leads to emissions where large quantities of the dangerous substances are released into the environment.

Scientist

Eco-friendly methods One problem within the textile industry is that the most efficient processes for dyeing textiles today require large amounts of water, energy, and chemicals. In an attempt to solve this problem, enzymes are used to initiate a degradation process of dyes and other chemicals. To achieve this, the

50

enzymes need to be attached to the surface of a support material in order for them to function maximally. The degradation is usually done with the help of acids or oxidizing solutions at high temperature and for a long time in the conventional methods. This means that the entire dyeing process

In her research project, doctoral student May Kahoush has focused on methods that contribute to the waste water’s being purified in an environmentally friendly way.

“In the dyeing process, the excess dyes and chemicals are flushed out with the waste water, which causes

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November 2019

WASTE WATER TREATMENT great damage to the environment.

My goal is to develop an eco-friendly method of purifying the waste water before it is emitted” she explains.

She has investigated three different methods, all of which facilitate a solution that benefits both the environment and the textile industry by reducing the consumption of water and energy, as well as the emission of hazardous chemicals. The challenge has been how to attach the enzymes to a suitable material.

Attaching enzymes on carbon fibre textiles “We have used felted carbon fibre textiles, a common material used in many different applications, and using these textiles the enzymes can attach and help degrade the dye molecules. The carbon fibre textile is a porous lightweight material, that resists corrosion and that is easily formed, which can be used as an alternative to expensive, rigid metals.

The carbon fibre also has good electrically-conductive properties, which

is a prerequisite for getting the desired properties in electro-chemical applications,” she says.

One problem, however, is that the carbon fibre textile is water repellent.

In this case, she wanted the material to absorb water, which is a prerequisite for the enzymes to be able to attach to it. Thus, there has to be a pre-treatment of the material.

Reduced use of water, energy and chemicals In one method, she used an ecofriendly substance from a flower, the gardenia, which causes the enzymes to attach directly to the surface of the carbon fiber material. In the other method, she used an environmentally-friendly coating to attach the enzymes, and in the third method a cold plasma treatment was applied. The first two methods only demand small amounts of water, while the plasma method requires neither water nor chemicals and needs a low amount of energy.

Due to the enzymatic activity of the enzymes on the carbon fibre material, the substance hydrogen peroxide is formed which breaks down the dyes used in textile dyeing. This contributes to reduced emissions of the dyes and other pollutants.

Methods with many advantages The methods for immobilising the enzymes have several advantages, such as that they provide a stable process and that the enzymes can be reused.

If they had floated around freely instead, there would have been a risk that residues of the enzymes would have remained on the dyed textiles, which could cause allergies and other unwanted effects.

In addition to the purification of water, the method can be used to identify substances to which the enzyme in question reacts, in this case to glucose. It is also possible to generate electricity from biological substances used to produce sugar or alcohol.

NEWS

HOHENSTEIN RELEASES QUALITY LABELS FOR WORKWEAR The quality labels combine all the demands made on modern workwear. Their clear product information provides certainty from the supply chain onwards. They include quality parameters, such as testing for harmful substances with Standard 100

by Oeko-Tex and other technology testing.

Hohenstein, the testing services provider and research partner, has released quality labels for tested workwear and uniforms to emphasise product safety, quality and the durability of workwear.

November 2019

Both labels can be tailored to validate claims for individual workwear and uniform requirements including tested fit, breathability, UV protection and suitability for leasing. The big plus – you can also choose to include

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any of these parameters in a combined label, the institute report.

The Hohenstein Quality Labels Tested Workwear and Tested Uniforms are independent proofs of quality that slot neatly into the existing range of Hohenstein Quality Labels. These have long enjoyed a high degree of credibility with retailers and consumers and provide a great recognition factor at the point of sale.

With over 1,000 employees in more than 40 branches, offices and laboratories worldwide, Hohenstein is an internationally oriented testing services provider and research partner in the textiles industry.

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EVENT UPDATE

YARN EXPO A LEADING GLOBAL BUSINESS HUB, WITH EXHIBITOR NUMBERS UP BY 8% fancy yarn exhibitors on offer. Meanwhile, sustainability remains a key trend, particularly in Europe but also in China, and fringe events focused on sustainable products were filled with interested audience members.

Despite some economic uncertainty within the Chinese market, many exhibitors noted their optimism for the future, crediting this to the resilience of China’s dominant purchasing power. At the same time, the fair received good feedback from Southeast Asian exhibitors, who were able to meet new overseas clients, widening their global strategies.

Visitor feedback With a record-breaking 543 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions (2018: 501, 14 countries and regions), Yarn Expo Autumn 2019 offered an unparalleled range of quality and product diversity. Exhibitors observed the highly professional nature of trade buyers at the fair, who in turn praised the choice and quality on offer.

19,155 visitors from 93 countries & regions joined the show (2018: 19,003 from 75 countries & regions). The results are clear: showing continuous growth and delivering genuine business outcomes each year, Yarn Expo has established its global reputation as a leading platform, for all kinds of yarns and fibres.

From the globally renowned to the competitive newcomers, there was innovation to be found around every corner. Exhibitors showcased an array of fancy, specialty and regenerated yarns, as well as high quality cotton, wool, silk and linen. Fancy and specialty yarns, especially those with added functionality, were reported to be high in demand from domestic trade buyers. The new display zone, Fancy Yarn Vision, proved a popular stop for buyers to quickly and efficiently see samples from highlighted

52

“We collaborate with a lot of fashion brands like Uniqlo, Anta and Fila. Yarn Expo is very important for us and a ‘must attend’ show every year. It has a significant influence on our company’s business strategy. I can find whatever product I want here. We are also very happy to see the new Fancy Yarn display area, which is very handy for us to efficiently find good quality fancy yarn exhibitors.”

Ms Bonnie Chan, Manager of Raw Materials, Pacific Textiles, Hong Kong “I have been coming to Yarn Expo for the last six years. What I like about this show the most is that the suppliers display all kinds of products, always keeping up with industry trends.

This show is way beyond a sourcing channel – it’s more like a stage for high-quality products and innovative concepts. It gathers everybody in one place which is effective.”

Mr Rajiv Srivastava, Manager, Neman Brothers & Assoc., USA “Yarn Expo serves as a platform for networking and partnership exploration. I come here to meet my existing suppliers as well as check out

new potential partners. At this edition, I sought out 30 potential suppliers that I am interested in, and I look forward to establishing business with them. We found more exhibitors here compared to other similar fairs.” Mr Marcin Kolasa, Product Development, Legs Sp. z o.o, Poland “I come here almost every year.

Yarn Expo is a great platform for us to source from because the offering here is huge and the price ranges are ideal. We already found a very good Chinese company and I will probably place some orders.”

Mr Akhtar Mughal, Managing Director, Al-Gohar International, Pakistan

Exhibitors’ observations “Yarn Expo is growing larger and becoming more international each year.

Our exhibitors have met visitors from Korea, Egypt and Europe. Some visitors are placing orders onsite – so far, we have recorded 40 onsite orders at the India Pavilion. We have observed buyers with higher demand for regenerated yarns, and buyers pursuing products with higher quality as well as sustainability. It is essential for us to exhibit at both editions each year to maintain our business.”

Mr Ravindranathan Narayanasamy, Director, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), India (India Pavilion organisers) “We are happy with the visitor flow.

In the first two days of Yarn Expo, we had over 140 visitors enquiring at our booth. We met visitors from Indonesia, Thailand and other Asian countries. The visitors were from different industry roles. Some of the visitors have already started to contact our sales team to place orders, and they would like to export and trade overseas. This offers new opportunities

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November 2019

EVENT UPDATE

to avoid negative impacts from the Sino-US trade war.”

Ms Shoaping Li, Senior Manager, China Supply Chain Marketing – Yarns and Home Textiles, Cotton Council International, USA “I think this is the best place to meet professionals from spinning mills, as well as trade buyers and even designers. This fair has everybody in one place, in one go. I estimate we met around 100 people who were very professional. And in terms of marketing, Yarn Expo has provided a lot of good coverage.

This has exceeded our expectations in terms of attention and success – I think we needed a bigger booth!”

Mr Donatas Cerkevicius, Commercial Director, Naturalus Pluostas, Lithuania “So far, the fair has been good. We have had two or three real deals, actual orders, which will take our company to the next level in the China market. We have had orders not only from China but also Turkey and Iran. There are lots of different markets here, mostly from India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and China. It’s good to be here for marketing purposes and to increase our network of clients.”

Mr Ravshan Kambarov, Commerical Director, Uztex Group, Ukbekistan “Because we gained a lot of positive and inspiring feedback from our last two experiences with Yarn Expo, we returned this year. This time the result is even better. We have received hundreds of clients

November 2019

and one of the clients, from Fujian, even enquired about purchasing the exclusive selling rights for one of our products. Another from Poland showed strong interest in our innovative products. We came to Yarn Expo to promote our brand image, spirit and passion, which are also the qualities owned by this fair.”

Mr Wang Zunyuan, General Manager, Qingdao Xinwei Institute of Textile Research, China “We have joined Yarn Expo for ten continuous editions and have witnessed the scale of its growth.

Compared to other similar fairs, this expo benefits from being in Shanghai and has a good reputation. That’s why more and more trade buyers attend every edition.

This time, a lot of Chinese buyers showed strong interest in our high quality products. The crowds in Yarn Expo are strong evidence of China’s potential, especially in cotton and synthetic yarns.” Mr Rravi Taparia, Senior Vice President, Reliance Spinning Mills, Nepal “This is the fourth time for our company to join Yarn Expo. We choose this fair because there is no other fair in the industry with such scale and reputation. It is an effective gateway for us to promote our products and company image, while building an expanded network of potential buyers, especially high-end. The buyers in this fair are diverse so it helps us to better explore the China and European markets.”

Mr Joon Son, Sales Manager, HJLite, Korea “This is the very first time for Everest Textile to join Yarn Expo. The fair has already impressed me a lot with its scale and organisation. People can explore numerous products in one place in a short time. Because Yarn Expo is a well-known fair, peo-

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ple from domestic and overseas markets are all here, so it’s an effective way for us to be seen. During these three days, we have continuously seen clients from China, Southeast Asia and the US coming to our booth to enquire.”

Mr Steven Shen, Textured Yarn Dept. Director, Everest Textile, Taiwan “This is our second time exhibiting at Yarn Expo. After successfully establishing real cooperation with a few buyers last time, we decided to return. We target international markets and we are glad to meet visitors from Turkey, India, Belgium and other European countries. Exhibiting at Yarn Expo is essential for our business because we can reach out to new clients here.”

Mr Guo Biao, General Manager, Hai Thien Synthetic Fiber Ltd Co, Vietnam

Fringe programme speaker “Our seminar result was very satisfying, with all seats occupied and even more people just standing to listen, which was way beyond our expectations. Yarn Expo is very professional and the offering is huge, that’s why people from all over the world come here. The fair has a good reputation within the industry and far-reaching influence, so it is a wise choice for us to launch new products here.”

Mr Andy Zhang, Sales Deputy General Manager, Sateri, China Yarn Expo is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the SubCouncil of Textile Industry, CCPIT. Yarn Expo Autumn 2019 was held concurrently with the 25th Autumn Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, as well as CHIC and PH Value. For more details, please visit:https://yarn-expo-autumn. hk.messefrankfurt.com. Yarn Expo Spring will be held from 11 – 13 March 2020, and the next Yarn Expo Autumn will be held in September 2020.

53

YARN REPORT BASIC TEXTILES EXPORT PLUNGE ACCELERATES IN AUGUST In September, total shipment of basic textile comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns declined 27% YoY both in terms of US$ and INR as against 30% fall registered in August.

During the month, exports were worth US$415 million or INR2,930 crore, accounting for about 1.6% of total merchandise exported from In-

dia during the month. A year ago, the same items had accounted over 2% of total merchandised export then.

Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened slowly from INR70.63 to INR70.71 this September.

Cotton Export Cotton marketing year 2018-19 ended with a disappointed export performance. Only 5.46 million bales were exported in the 12-month with September posting less than 15 thousand bales (170 kg each). In US$ term, exports declined 40% YoY. Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in September, followed by Vietnam and Iran. Thailand was fourth largest market. No cotton shipment was noted to China, which was one of the largest importer of Indian cotton in recent months.

topping both in terms of volume and value, despite falling to half on year on year basis.

Cotton yarn export was just 68 million kg worth US$198 million (INR1,402 crore), down 36% from a year ago level. 79 countries imported cotton yarn from India at an average price of US$2.91 a kg, down US cents 10 from previous month and US cents 36 from a year ago.

China was the top cotton yarn market, but imported 50% lesser volume and 58% in value terms from India this September. During the month, export to China was 16 million kg worth US$39 million. China was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value declining 35-40% year on year. Portugal and Peru were the other major importers of cotton yarn, with former recording 43% increase in value and latter inching up 7%.

Nine countries, including Pakistan, did not import any cotton yarn from India this September as they had imported yarn worth US$14.76 million worth in September 2018. Pakistan was one of the largest market than.

However, they replaced by 14 other countries which imported yarn worth US$1.70 million. Oman was the major new market this month.

Yarn Export Spun yarns shipment totaled 90 million kg (down 24%) worth US$255 million (down 33%) implying an average unit value realization of US$2.84 per kg. This was US cents 36 lower from a year ago average. China remained the largest market for spun yarns,

54

Nepal, Iran, UAE, Argentina Denmark and Turkey were among top fastest major importers of cotton yarn in September while Greece, Bulgaria, Dominican Republic and Hong Kong significantly reduced their imports

compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports declined (4%) in September extending the previous month’s decline but at a slower pace. They comprised 3 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.6 million kg of viscose yarn and 2 million kg of acrylic yarn. The decline was led by polyester yarn, which fell 25-30 in terms of volume and value.

Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$8.19 million and were exported to 46 countries at average unit price of US$2.26 a kg, down US cents 14 from last month and down US cents 24 from last year. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed distantly by USA and Brazil.

Viscose yarn worth US$5.37 million or INR38 crore was exported in September at an average price of US$3.40 per kg. Turkey was the top importer worth US$1.43 million, followed by Bangladesh and Brazil. Sri Lanka was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month.

Blended spun yarns worth US$38.60 million were exported in September, down 19% YoY. During the month, 8 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$19 million while 5 million kg of PV yarns were ex-ported worth US$13 million. Egypt, Brazil and Peru were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Pakistan.

All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 64 million kg (up 15%. YoY), valued at US$100 million (down 5%.

YoY). Only nylon and polypropylene filament yarn exports were positive in value terms and also showed substantial increases.

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November 2019

YARN REPORT

GLOBAL TEXTILE FIBRE PRICES SOFTEN IN OCTOBER NITIN MADKAIKAR Textile Beacon

Polyester Polyester stable fibre offers were generally lowered in China as upstream cost eased and simultaneously downstream demand withered. Further, discounts were available on each deal discussed while trading remained thin. The markets were bogged down by lackluster downstream demand, though the feedstock markets will continue to ease somewhat in coming weeks. In China, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF moderated US cents 3-4 to US$0.99-1.01 a kg in Jiangsu and Zhejiang while the same in Fujian and Shandong were down to 1.00-1.02.

Export prices of 1.4 D also dipped to US$0.93-0.94 a kg FOB NE Asia.

In Pakistan, producers’ offers were firmer over as downstream buying was active seeing cotton price touch multi year high. Imports offer were also down given the currency strengthening against the US$. In India, producers lowered their offers for November amid lackluster demand and falling inputs cost. In

November 2019

Pakistan, 1.4D PSF offers were up at PakRs.187-189 a kg (US$1.20-1.21 a kg, up US cents 2 also due to weak US$). In India, producers’ offers were flat at INR86.50 a kg (US$1.21 a kg) for 1.2D and for 1.4-2D at INR85.75 a kg (US$1.20 a kg).

Nylon Nylon staple fiber saw moderate sales, while demand was better. In China, 1.5D offers were up US cents 3 at the lower end and down US cents 4 at the lower end to range US$2.142.21 a kg.

Acrylic Acrylic staple fibre markets were quiet in October seeing upstream cost plunge across Asia, Europe and US. In China, prices for cotton-type acrylic staple fiber, tow and top were range bound amid muted trading and softening feedstock. Thus, producers maintained stable offers.

Some producers restarted idle units which may increase supply in coming weeks. However, the market will be

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covered by wait-and-see sentiment in the future. Offers for Taiwan origin 3D bright acrylic fibre tow were down US cents 2 on the month at US$1.962.06 a kg, after being revised down in the last week of the month. In China, medium-length and cotton-type acrylic fibre prices also rolled over at US$2.11-2.15 a kg.

In Pakistan, acrylic fibre producers lowered their offer during the last two consecutive weeks by 3% while Asian acrylonitrile marker was also down 3% during the same period. 1.2D ASF offers in Karachi market fell PakRs10 to average PakRs.370 a kg (US$2.37 a kg, down US cents 6). In India, producers reduced their offers for October as feedstock prices were seen plunging earlier. Producers offers were at INR161.50-162.00 a kg (US$2.28-2.29 a kg).

Viscose Viscose staple fibre markets were dismal in Asia this October. In China, producers liquidated volumes by offering large discounts due to rising inventory. However, transaction volume was low. Given the expectation of more holidays later, downstream demand retreated further. Thus, prices are likely to trend down in coming weeks. Prices for medium-end and high-end goods were reduced by about 3% week on week. Offers for medium end VSF fell Us cent 1 to average US$1.52-1.55 a kg while high end goods were at US$1.53-1.56 a kg, down US cents 4.

In Pakistan, offers from overseas were reduced for the two consecutive week of October in Karachi market.

1.5D VSF down at PakRs267-270 a kg (US$1.71-1.73 a kg, down US cents 5).

In India, producers’ offers remained unchanged for October. Producers offer for 1.2-1.5D were maintained at INR195-197 a kg (US$2.76-2.78 a kg).

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SURAT REPORT Low production: Unfinished grey fabric price increased by Rs. 2/mtr

Weavers demands 5 crore fund for yarn bank

After Diwali vacation, the prices of various unfinished grey fabric have gone up by Rs 2 per meter. The reason for sharp rise in fabrics is low production. After Diwali, only 30% of the powerloom factories have started. Because of workers shortage, many units are running in one shift only.

The powerloom weavers of the city has demanded increase in fund allocation for yarn bank. The textile ministry is providing 2 crore corpus fund for two yarn bank started in 2016. The weavers has submitted the memorandum to textile commisioner and demanded the corpus fund be increased to Rs 5 crore.

Industry sources said that majority of textile workers, had gone to their native villages in Uttar Pradesh, Odisha, Bihar and other states to celebrate Diwali and attending marriages. The textile weavers are facing shortage of workers and the unit owners are operating at less than 30% of their efficiency. The production is reduced by almost 1.5 crore metres per day.

The supply of grey fabrics from power loom units to textile market in only 20-30 per cent.

The Union ministry of textiles has formed two yarn bank namely Ved Road Art Silk Small Scale Cooperative Federation Limited and Pandesara Weavers Cooperative Society Limited in 2015. These banks have been started with the initial corpus fund of Rs 1 crore each for purchasing yarn from the open market and selling at concessional rates to its member weavers.

Grey fabric traders in the city said there is a good demand for unfinished fabrics as the buying for the marriage season has allready started. There are fresh orders from the retail traders as the demand for saris and dress material has increased ahead of marriage season. The textile traders wants to increase the stock due to good demand from the key consuming centres across the country. The pre-Diwali period was good for the finished fabrics. The coming months will be extremely bright for the textile industry.

The demand for unfinished fabrics has increased in the local market and that the prices of various qualities like C by C 60 gm., polyester 60 gm., PC Rangoli, sai seafon, CP-vichitra have gone up by Rs 1.00 to Rs 2 per meter.

The unfinished fabric is purchased by the textile traders and sent for further processing at the dyeing and printing units for the final finish.

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The yarn banks allows the weavers to procure yarn on credit and repaying the amount in installments or adjusting against the quantity of yarn bought every month. There are 5.5 lakh powerloom machines in the city producing around 2.5 crore meter of fabrics every day. The powerloom sector employs around six lakh textile workers.

Banks sanctioned Rs 642 crore loan to MSMEs in two customer outreach initiatives Before Diwali, The nationalized and private sector banks sanctioned a total Rs 642 crore commercial loans to MSMEs and retail customers two customer outreach initiatives programme in the city. As per the instructions of Ministry of Finance, Department of Financial Services, two days two programme was held at Surat International Exhibition and Conference Hall on 4-5 and 22-23 October, 2019.

vate banks has organised a customer outreach initiative in the city where loan advances worth Rs 642 crore was sanctioned to around 1500 customers of textile MSME, agriculture and retail sectors. Sources said that loan fair was aimed at providing credit to retail customers and MSMEs in the wake of the demand slowdown.

Textile industry welcome PM’s decision not to join RCEP Various textile Industry Association, traders and SGCCI has welcome Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s decision not to join Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP).

Prime Minister Narendra Modi in Bangkok said India will not join China-backed RCEP deal as negotiations failed to satisfactorily address outstanding issues. In such a situation, it is not possible for India to join RCEP Agreement. The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) stated that the decision taken by the PM will largely benefit the powerloom sectors in Surat and Bhiwandi.

The powerloom weavers and SGCCI had strongly represented the issue to the Central Government and raised serious objections about the negative impact of the RCEP agreement on the country’s textile sector. Ketan Desai, president of SGCCI said, It is learnt that the RCEP agreement has been delayed by at least one year.

The PM’s decision has given big relief to the powerloom sector which is facing the onslaught of the cheap import of fabrics from China and Bangladesh. India runs a large trade deficit with RCEP countries and was looking for specific protection for its industry and farmers from a surge in imports, especially from China.

More than 35 public sector and pri-

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November 2019

TECHNICAL TEXTILE UPDATE GEOSYNTHETICS AND TECHNICAL TEXTILES IN REINFORCED EARTH STRUCTURES A REVIEW OF PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS AND FIELD QUALITY ASSURANCE R. B. SINGH

in the following tables:

Chief Coordinator ANULAB Geosythetics are associated with geotechnical engineering which is part of civil engineering. The term geosynthetic has been deifined by the International Geosynthetic Society as a planar, polymeric-synthetic or natural material used in contact with soil/rock or any other geotechnical material in civil engineering applications.

Ge osynt h et i cs in clu de g eo t ext il es, g e omemb ran es, g e og r ids , g eos t r a ps , g eoc ells and geocomposites. Their functions are different and include separation,

Laboratry geotextile sample with test specimen templates .

Photograph courtesy; ANULAB, Agra, an ISO 17025-2017 Laboratory

Geotextiles for Drainage, Separation and Erosion Control

filteration, drainage, reinforcement, barrier, protection, cushion and surficial erosion control. Most of the geosynthetics are made of Organic polymers-Polyester (PET), Polypropylene (PP) and Polyethylene (PE- HDPE).

Geosynthetics for Highways, Roads and Bridges The highways construction includes construction of reinforced soil structures together with the construction of earth work in layers, assembly and placing of reinforcing elements and facia elements during the construction process and all associated works. The geosynthetics- geotextiles and geogrids used in highways, roads and bridges, are required to have the properties as given

November 2019

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE UPDATE

In this short paper only geosynthetics used in highways, roads and bridges could be taken up for review.

Geosynthetics in railway track would be reviewed seperately in the forthcoming issues. A part from product specifications, published by the project authoreties it is imperative, there is need to develop a quality assurance plan for both Manufacturing Quality Assurance (MQA) and Construction Quality Assurance (CQA).

References and Further Readings: 1. Earth Reinforcement, Design and Construction, Publication No. 314-2012, CBIP, New Delhi.

2. MORTH Specs. for Road and Bridge Wroks, 5th Revision, Indian Road Congress, New Delhi.

3. Guidelines for Design & Construction of Reinforced Soil Walls, IRC:SP: 102-2014, New Delhi

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November 2019

WASTE WATER TREATMENT

INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS FOR TEXTILE WASTEWATER MANAGEMENT of the effluent generated – needs cooling

JAIDEEP DUDHBHATE

mechanism before biological treatment.

Pune Most of the process industries such as textile, sugar, pharmaceutical, pesticide, pigment manufacturing etc. consume large amount of water. This water after use gets contaminated (or polluted) with the chemicals used in the process. This is then discharged out as effluents. The type of effluent generated depends on the products manufactured. Even in the same industry the nature and volume of effluent varies due to unit specific processes adopted by each unit based on their unique requirements. This means that although a general treatment process may be similar, each customer will need a specific design of ETP to treat his effluent adequately. Hence for each customer we need to have data on quality and quantity of effluent, which determines the design basis of any ETP.

BOD – Less than 100 mg/L (sometimes <30 mg/L or even 10 mg/L)

The effluents generated from various processes may contain chemicals like acids, alkalis, suspended and dissolved solids, various types of organics which we measure in terms of Chemical oxygen demand (COD) and Biochemical / Biological oxygen demand (BOD), oil & grease, colour, metals etc. This effluent or contaminated process water has to meet certain norms under the law (called as discharge or regulatory parameters) before they are discharged into environment.

2) Secondary treatment – it is mostly a biological process

Regulatory norms: pH – 6-8.5 COD – Less than 250 mg/L (sometimes <100 mg/L)

Total suspended solids (TSS) – 100 mg/L (some times <30 mg/L) Total dissolved solids (TDS) – Normally less than 2100 mg/L. When discharge is in sea there is no TDS limit.

The conventional processes like lime and ferrous treatment are becoming ineffective or less effective in treating new dyes.

Typical composition of combined effluent (Dye bath+ wash water): Dye bath is about 10% volumetrically of total volume.

Temperature – Ambient (<40 0 C)

pH – 9-12

Color – recommended to be color less (some time value of 400 or 100 Hazen units (sometimes even lower) is specified).

COD – 400 to 2500 mg/L

In order to meet these norms, the effluent is treated in what is called as effluent treatment plant (ETP).

Typically effluent treatment consists of following stages, 1) Primary treatment – it is mostly a physico chemical treatment.

3) Tertiary treatment – it is again a mostly physico- chemical process.

Effluent treatment in textile industry: Treatment and safe disposal of effluent from textile industry has become a concern as a wide range of dyes and chemicals are used in varying proportions and combinations generating ever-changing wastewaters.

The scarcity of raw water makes it imperative to treat the wastewater such that it is available for reuse without any problems.

BOD – 250 to 1100 mg/L Total suspended solids (TSS) – 300 to 1000 mg/L Total dissolved solids (TDS) – 1000 to 8000 mg/L Temperature – 35 to 50 OC Color – 100 to 1500 Hazen units.

Approaches for treating textile effluents: Treatment of textile processing effluent will involve many stages.

To reduce pollution load at plant level itself some of the mills segregate mercerizing wastes and go for caustic recovery.

Conventional treatment process – Treatment process – Conven�onal Scheme 1 Influent Lime, Alum, Polymer

Equalization

FM-FT-Primary Clarifier

Aeration tank

Secondary Clarifier

Clarifier sludge

Another major concern is high temp ATFD

MEE RO reject

RO

Permeate recycle for process

November 2019

Urea, DAP

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UF

ACF

MMF

Filter feed tank

Recycle for utilities Decanter

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WASTE WATER TREATMENT

(neutralization followed by chemical treatment using ferrous sulfate or alum and Lime) followed by aerobic biological process.

Treatment process – Conventional Scheme 1 Even after treating the effluent conventionally, this treatment is many times not able to reduce the COD to desired levels. Also this process faces following problems • Huge quantity of sludge is generated due to lime and ferrous treatment (1-1.5 Kg dry sludge/ KL of effluent) •

The textile industry has mainly used aerobic biodegradation for its wastewaters so far. It has its limitations in reducing colour and COD in a single stage.

• Huge quantity of power is consumed (0.8-1 KW/ Kg COD reduced) and biological sludge is generated (0.3-0.4 Kg/ Kg COD degraded).

A typical mill having ETP capacity of 1000 KLD uses Ferrous sulfate approx at 400-600 ppm & lime at 300 to 500 ppm dosage & will generate about 1500 Kg of primary chemical sludge on dry weight basis. Primary Sludge on wet basis is around 5- 7 T / d. Sludge from aerobic biological process generates about 0.3-0.4 Kg sludge per Kg COD degraded. So sludge from biological system will be (considering 2000 ppm COD) around 700 Kg on dry weight basis – approx 3-4 T /d. So total sludge on wet basis is about 10 T/d.

‘‘ 60

Recent Advances in treatment process -

effluent

tering, drying & disposal costs like conventional systems.

Few years back a combination of anaerobic +aerobic biological treatment process was introduced.

Though it did reduce the chemical sludge to a large extent, there was not much reduction in biological sludge.

• Also power required per Kg COD reduction is much less (almost 5060% less) compared any process presently available.

Recently a revolutionary biological process which does not produce “EXCESS BIOLOGICAL SLUDGE” has been introduced. It is called as “Biocleaner technology”. The approach is towards to “Totally Sludge Less” process.

• THE process works with OR without anaerobic step, but we recommend use of anaerobic step for better color removal & lower energy.

• Anaerobic design is very simple – just like aeration – it is a closed tank without any fancy sludge retention mechanism like GLSS Or Degassifier –clarifier etc.

This technology has presently been implemented at Manohar Filaments in Panipat, thru CCPL, Gurgaon.

Over last 8 months no sludge has been generated thru primary and biological system. Except neutralization other chemicals has been eliminated at primary stage.

As a part of technology evaluation we do conduct lab pilot trials in customer labs on chargeable basis. This is basically to see feasibility of using technology for COD reduction without any excess sludge generation.

• These are fast acting bacteria converting organics into CO2.

• They do not form “MLSS” the way it is formed in conventional aeration (3000 to 5000 ppm). Here too some MLSS forms as suspended solids (100-500 ppm) but there is no excess bio sludge generation. It is less than 5% of conventional systems. This means no sludge dewa-

How does it function?

Air injected to Biotube and aeration grid Microbes are released Air bubbles force microbes to surface by gravity

Laminar flow spreads microbes in tank and hydraulic head pushed microbes down in layers Biobed forms

‘‘

Conventionally textile effluent is being treated by primary physico chemical process

When you’re playing small and want to break out of your current limitations…

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November 2019

TEXTILES COMMITTEE UPDATE

SWACHHTA ABHIYANN- TEXTILES COMMITTEE 2018 with the effective participation of all the employees of the Textiles Committee & neighbourhood community and volunteers including families, friends & kids of the participants etc.

The Textiles Committee is a Statutory Body set up by an Act of Parliament (the Textiles Committee Act, 1963) and is under the administrative control of the Union Ministry of Textiles, Government of India with a mandate to work for Quality of Textiles & Textiles machineries.

2. The Textiles Committee has been working relentlessly to spread the message of Swacha Bharat by organising various social activities throughout its 28 offices across the country relating to cleanliness since 2014 to carry forward the clarion call of Honâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ble Prime Minister of India on the Swacha Bharat Mission.

3. As part of this Swachhta Mission, the Textiles Committee organised a special swachhta drive at Prabhadevi sea beach, off P Balu Road, Prabhadevi on 02nd October 2019 on the auspicious occasion of Gandhi Jayanti.

4. The choice of Prabhadevi Beach for undertaking intense cleanliness drive was driven by the passion and desire of Textiles Committeesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Chief Executive Officer (CEO), Shri Ajit B. Chavan to involve its employees and the neighbourhood/community in undertaking concrete and sustainable cleanliness drive in and around the locality through Shramdan.

5. The Textiles Committee, under his leadership, has already conducted 02 such mass cleanliness drives on the 17th September, 2017 & 10th March

November 2019

6. The drive started at 10.00 am with the administering of the Swatchata Pledge to participants followed by rally march to the adjoining Prabhadevi beach. Almost 200 participants comprising of 150 employees of the TexDan and community participation in cleanliness drives. iv.

Removal of solid waste garbage mostly plastic non degradable waste from the beach as well as under the soil surface and sensitising the participants in minimal use of non degradable Plastic packaging in day to day activities. v. Instilling a feeling of comradiere and sense of purpose among the cleanling staff of the BMC. tiles Committee and around 50 other volunteers from neighbouring societies as well as friends and family members of the participants participated in the 3rd intensive Prabhadevi beach cleanliness drive. This drive resulted into removal of one tractor trolley load of garbage, mostly non degradable plastic waste that flows into the sea through the sewage pipes rested into the sea at Prabhadevi beach.

8. Secretary, Textiles Committee, Mr Chavan reaffirmed that the positive energy generated through such activities will be appropriately channelized through such drives in future in the wider interest of the beach and the community/ neighbourhood.

7. The movement saw active participation of the community and has succeeded in: i. Sensitizing the people about the importance of Swachhta Mission and cleanliness of the sea beach to ensure healthy environment. ii. Generating mass awareness and sustainable behavioural change towards swatchta and environmental conservation by the people. iii. Focus public attention on Shram

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SHOW CALENDAR 10-13

GTE New Delhi,India http://garmenttechnologyexpo.com/

12-13

SGI Dubai 2020 Dubai World Trade Center/Dubai https://www.signmiddleeast.com/

20-24

Udyog 2020 Surat / India www.udyog.sgcci.in

30-31

NGF 2020 Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in

NOVEMBER 2019 20-22

Techtexil INDIA Mumbai / India techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com

20-21

India Europe 29 Business Forum New Delhi, India https://www.ie29.in/

20-22

Screen Print India Sri Lanka http://www.screenprintsrilanka.com/

20-22

Sing Expo Sri Lanka http://www.screenprintsrilanka.com/

20-22

20-23

21-23

25-28

27-30

FEBRUARY 2020 2-4

Ideas Expo Sri Lanka http://www.screenprintsrilanka.com/

INDA2020 North Carolina/USA http://www.inda.org/

5-6

VTG 2019 Ho Chi Minh city/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com

Textile Opporctunities 2020 UK Worcs, WR9 8ED/UK https://www.technical-textiles.net

6-8

YARN FABRIC & ACCESSORIES Bhiwandi, Maharashtra http://www.yfatradeshow.com/

YFA Haryana/INDIA http://www.yfatradeshow.com/

12-15

IPF Bangladesh 2020 Dhaka/Bangladesh https://www.eventseye.com/

SHANGHAITEX 2019 Shanghai / China www.shanghaitex.cn WEAVES 2019 Erode/ India http://texvalleyindia.com/

14-16 ITME AFRICA 2020 Ethopia / Africa www.itme-africa.com 20-23

DTG 2020 Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com

26-28

Filtxpo – 2019 Navy Pier/Chicago IL/USA http://www.filtxpo.com

27-29

YARN FAIR ISTANBUL İstanbul, Türkiye http://tuyap.com.tr/

DECEMBER 2019 5-8

ITMACH INDIA Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com

5-8

ITES Gandhinagar / India www.itsexhibition.com

17-18

20TH IFF & FASHION TECHWAY SPEAKERS Karnataka, India https://www.indiafashionforum.in/

18-20

20-22

March 2020 5-6

YFA Bhilawara/ India http://yfatradeshow.com

Texcon – 2020 Indore MP/ India www.svvv.edu.in

11-13

YARNEX Ludhiana / India http://yarnex.in/

Yarn Expo 2020 Shanghai / China yarnexpo.com.cn

11-13

Intertextile Shanghai Shanghai / China https://intertextileapparel.hk.messefrankfurt. com/

11-13

Intertextile Shanghai Home textile Shanghai / China https://intertextilehome.hk.messefrankfurt. com/

JANUARY 2020 7-10

10-13

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HEIMTEXTIL 2020 Frankfurt / Germany heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com DOMOTEX 2020 Hannover / Germany www.domotex.de

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November 2019

INTERVIEW FLUCTUATION IN YARN PRICE, CURRENCY POSE HIGH CHALLENGE on sustainability and good trade practices in the industry. We see the trend changes within every 3 years almost, In US, predominantly the main focus was towards the thread counts, which is now slowly fading away with the influence of functionalities and innovations in the textiles. More focus is on organic and wellness. We also come up with the new product ranges coping to the market reKUMARAVEL T. quirements and Vice President, Sales & Marketing one such product which we launchPremier Fine Linen es recently was Premier, a well-established brand in Sincerity bedding called “ Sine Cera” the fine-linen category has earned Please find here our new launch of its reputation for its quality over sevproduct range called “Sine Cera” eral decades. The Coimbatore based which is developed very consciously exporter focus on continual imwithout use of any bleaching or dyprovements in terms of quality keep ing and any harsh chemicals in the studying and implementing evolving process. This unique process reduces systems to cope up with the quality water and electricity consumption expectations form their customers. during the process substantially. Even In an exclusive chat with Textile Value the product is Chain, Kumaravel T, Vice President, well designed Sales & Marketing of Premier Fine and optimally Linen, speaks on the export scenario, planned so that challenges that hinder the growth of there is a high the Indian export segments. Edited reduction of excerpts. fabric wastages What are the key trends you during the pronotice in the fine linens in India duction. In Latover the past 10 years? in, ‘sine’ means ‘without’, ‘Cera’ In the past 10 years, we have been exmeans ‘wax’. periencing requirements moving toThe phrase wards functionalities, innovative fib‘without wax’ ers, special finishing, focusing more is an English

November 2019

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translation of sin Cera. When stone sculptors mess up, they would cover their mistake by filling it with stone powder mixed with wax. This is where the English word sincere came from. Sin “without” Cera “wax”. So to say without wax means sincerely or true or honesty Our sheeting range “Sine Cera” is made as per its original meaning without bleaching and dyeing and minimally processed.

What are the special efforts you make to ensure the quality of the products you export?

We believe that the quality comes from the needlepoint and not by the quality department. We put all our efforts to bring quality in the production rather than vigilant to find the mistakes. Stringent quality inspections standards at every stage of the process ensure, right quality, first time. Constant analysis of the quality reports from internal inspection and correlating with the external inspection agencies, gives us a fair idea to focus improvements on. This helps us to narrow down our focus of quality improvements. Machineries as well play important role in achieve the quality expectations, and we use the latest technologies from spinning till the stitching.

What are the key aspects you look

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INTERVIEW

while procuring a machine for your plants?

Automation is our key focus, and we are trying to automate as much as possible which brings in the productivity to a higher level and makes a set quality standards.

As a leading manufacturer of fine linens, what are the top three challenges you are facing in terms of manufacturing?

Advt,

Obviously, the first one is the price.

Competition from equivalent verticals and unorganized traders pose tough market conditions towards the pricing. Capacities of the verticals, had gone up exponentially in the last decade and with the urge to

64

fill the capacity they compete with very low prices, which sets low prices standards across the product range.

I would like to rank two attributes in second category, yarn price fluctuation, and currency fluctuation. Both really pose high challenge towards long terms programs. Third being the Government policies, where the change in the policies, definitely affects our margins, especially when working on very thin margins even sometimes giving away some government benefits.

What are the key focus countries and which industries are adopting your products frequently?

Middle East, Russian continents and Far East is our current focus geographical locations. We are already selling to almost 25 different countries across the globe. Our product range is very simple and more focused, i.e., Sheet sets and unfilled Top of the bed like Duvet covers and shams.

What are the countries you are finding competition in this market and what are the aspects Indian players lose our business to?

Pakistan having advantage of duty structure in Europe is the biggest competition for us in Schengen countries, especially in our product category â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; Fine Bed Linensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Now with the tariffs on China from US, even though some business is moving towards India, lot of business is sliding towards countries like Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand and more.

While the global bed and bath linen market is at a CAGR over 7%, what are the key suggestions you would like to provide your industry peers in India to advantage their sales?

With the current tariff situation in China, there will be a huge opportunity to try on Filled products and microfibers for India.

What are the top 3 expansion plans you have?

Couple of years ago, we had gone for an up-gradation and massive expansion in our dyeing plant. Our current focus expansions are towards increasing our weaving capacity and automation in terms of the stitching area.

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November 2019

INTERVIEW YARN TRADING WILL HAVE REVOLUTIONARY CHANGE IN FUTURE YEARS WITH B2B E-COMMERCE • Brand name: The Yarn Bazaar • Company name: Filosha Fibres Pvt Ltd • Brand Tagline: It’s time to change • USP : Holistic Yarn Platform realize that if diamond, being a nonstandardized product can be traded online then why not yarn which is fairly a standardized commodity!

What all Challenges / Hardship you faced during the journey?

MANY!! Being the only son and someone who was already running the business, it was extremely difficult to convince my father that I wanted to quit the family business and run a startup. My decision to adapt the new and untouched field of digital commerce in the textile sector was seen with reservations by my family and many people in the industry too.

PRATIK GADIA Founder and CEO The YARN BAZAAR Enthusiastic New Generation of Gadia Family , Mr. Pratik Gadia , Founder and CEO of startup ‘The YARN BAZAAR’ has come up with a Unique Concept of B2B E Commerce in YARN Business, which will support across Yarn Value Chain Contributor ie. Manufacturer, Buyer, Agent, Broker, etc. Mr. Pratik, loves challenge; by mapping vacuum and need, planned his business journey to create world’s first end to end yarn trading platform.

family business of manufacturing & wholesaling of shirting fabrics. I was constantly annoyed by the way we purchased yarns. It was like calling an agent to book your flight tickets back in the days. Time consuming and redundant. This gave birth to the idea of ‘The Yarn Bazaar’. We spent 2 years on research, working on business model and on the tech and started operations in July this year.

Our vision is to create an end to end yarn platform serving all needs and pain points of the industry; making it very seamless and efficient.

Calibrating a sound business model to deciding the tech architecture to creating an intuitive user interface and finally building the tech; everything has been extremely challenging and is an ongoing process.

But there were certain people who encouraged me. Sushilji Patwari (chaiman, Nagreeka group) was the first person in the industry I discussed this with. Then I met Anilji Biyani (Damodar group) last year in an exhibition and he said ‘Beta, come to my office. Let’s sit and work this out’.

This would not have been possible without their support. Also, our advisor, Sharadji Tandon.

What inspired you to Start a startup in Textile and what is Purposebehind it? Starting year of business, Mission / Vision

Idea Generation inspiration of this unique concept?

What all Achievement your brand received till date?

I come from a textiles family and after completing my Masters in Innovation & Entrepreneurship from University of Warwick, I joined my

I have many friends in the Diamond industry and they always spoke about Rapnet which is used across the industry and globally. That made me

We are only 3 months old and are still in our pilot stage. But we have already processed over 1100 tons of yarn inquiries. Recently we are see-

November 2019

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65

INTERVIEW ing good traction. Twice this week we sold over 40 tons of yarn amounting to 1 crore in a single day, all on 100% advance payment basis. Also, we are discussing with a leading yarn manufacturer to whitelabel our solution for them.

What are the current issues being faced by user industry ie.

Fiber,Yarn, fabric and garment segment?

With increasing competition and changing dynamics, industry is facing many issues. Declining sales and margins have been one of the biggest problems. Other problems being capacity utilization, receivables management, bad debts. We are trying to address all of these 1 by 1.

What pain points / problems you are solving of industry by your services ?

The main benefit for a yarn supplier on our platform is increased reach/ sales, margins and lower credit receivables. While that of a buyer is lower yarn cost. In addition to these, there are several other pain points we are addressing like future trend forecasting, managing customer inquiries, price benchmarking, order fulfillment etc.

What will be the next technology in your segment?

be using technology to become more efficient.

We are working on building an Ola/ Uber like model for transport solutions for yarn which will enable a supplier to discover and book a lorry at the best price while allowing for online documentation and tracking. This will make order fulfillment very seamless and reduce inefficiency. We have noticed in our interaction with most users that this is one of the most pressing issues.

Where do you see your company in next 5 and 10 years?

What is your take on the future scenario of your segment (IT +TEXTILES) in the domestic as well as global market?

Every industry today is inclined towards tech. Diamond industry has had rapnet for decades now. Textiles also has an inclination but implementation has always been a challenge.

Once this is done carefully, it has the potential to change the landscape globally and make Indian Textiles competitive again. Manufacturing has already gone through it. Today we have airjets for better productivity. But marketing, sales, distribution & procurement processes are still the same. Very soon, we feel, most companies whether big or small will

We want to become an industry standard enabling everything from yarn discovery to trading to fulfillment to financing. Basically, creating an industry ecosystem bringing every stakeholder closer for the benefit of the trade.

Branding Strategies in Indian and International Market?

Deliver great value to your users/ customers. Apple has been able to charge a premium for their mobile phones or laptops only because of this.

How important is digital marketing for you?

1. Digital enables you to reach a large audience at a low cost.

2. Digital is a two-way communication compared to traditional forms like newspaper ads or hoardings which is only 1 way.

3. Digital can give you accurate numbers on reach and customer insights.

Hence, nobody can ignore it.

SOURCE INDIA 2019 GOT GREAT INTEREST FROM LATIN AMERICAN BUYERS During Source India Exhibition, TVC have spoken to management of SRTEPC, Organizer of SOURCE INDIA EXHIBITION. Exclusive Interview with

The ethos of SOURCE INDIA 2019 As an export promotion organisation, our key role is to promote exports of India’s Manmade textiles business.

Over the years, while participating

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in overseas trade shows, we have always felt that Brand India never gets its rightful share. Whether it is Colombia or Turkey, India is a part of huge conglomeration of exhibitors and our exhibitors find it difficult to get noticed and explore business opportunities.

At SOURCE INDIA, SRTEPC has created India’s own market place f o r

Manmade textiles business. We invite quality buyers from all over the world, genuinely interested in buying from India, showcase all of I n dia’s manufacturing expertise at one place and create real business opportunities for our exporters.

We made a small beginning at Surat in 2016, and repeated our success in 2018. In 2017, we were a part of Mega

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November 2019

INTERVIEW RONAK RUGANI Chairman SRTEPC

“Textile India” at Gandhinagar.

2019 was the year for SOURCE INDIA Mumbai. Quality buyers, Quality exhibitors and a great setup for doing focused business discussions. We are extremely proud to have created an exhibitions brand owned by us and its legacy will strengthen in years to come.

Actual Buying of the buyers are concerns raised by industry, comment.

Buyers come and visit exhibitions to evaluate and shortlist suppliers. They also undertake factory inspections and try to evaluate delivery capabilities of suppliers. Order placements are not always instantaneous, it takes time to develop confidence to place orders.

The world of business has its ups and downs and Textiles sector is no exception. We have experienced several

November 2019

Ex-Chairman SRTEPC

cycles of recession in our time.

mixed group of buyers every time at SOURCE INDIA.

We do understand that today’s times are tough for the Industry; but business will soon see an upwards trend.

Selection of Buyers

SRTEPC is developing new markets for Indian exporters and SOURCE INDIA is a good opportunity for these emerging market buyers to visit India, evaluate Indian products and make plans for future orders. We have achieved good success in Vietnam, Algeria, Morocco and are working on newer markets.

Project Buying Figures buyers came in exhibition.

from

SOURCE INDIA 2019 should generate orders worth USD 200-300 million in the short and mid-term. This edition saw great interest from Latin American buyers and we are hopeful of Brazil emerging as a large volume buyer

Comment on buyer’s profile i.e. retailers or buying agencies?

SRTEPC focuses on inviting Buyers with maximum purchase potential.

Some buyers are looking for ready to place products in their chain stores and mega marts. Some are in the business of making garments and home accessories and visit SOURCE INDIA for fabric sourcing. Some are here to buy yarn for further processing in their country. So overall it is a

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ANIL RAJVANSHI

SRTEPC has a comprehensive selection procedure for buyers. Each buyer submits an application which demonstrates their business capabilities and import potential.

While exporter recommendations and peer recommendations are a good source, we also seek advice from the Indian embassy at the time of final selection.

To seek quality buyers, we organise roadshows in target markets as well.

Next year Exhibition is planning in Mumbai or Surat?

It is always tough to choose between Surat and Mumbai. Surat is our manufacturing hub and Mumbai is our trading and exports hub. Mumbai being an International gateway also has the benefits of easier flight connections and good hotel inventory.

SRTEPC will organise shows wherever our member request us. We will ensure that we organise as per prevalent International standards and there is enough business value for both our exhibitors and buyers.

Mumbai better place for Exhibition for International Exhibition Mumbai in an International gateway and India’s Trade and Finance Hub. It has all the necessary infrastructure for organising International shows.

2020 Exhibition Plan Our proposal is under consideration with Ministry of Commerce, Government of India and we plan to announce the next edition in the next few weeks.

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Tuff Timer PulleyÂŽ Gear Pumps for Food & Chemicals Gears & Planetary Gear Box

Advantages of Tuff Timer Pulleys The material we are using have strength very close to cast iron Being light weight density less than 2 saves lot of inertia Reduces manufacturing time hence inventory. (Most of the pulleys are available exstock in small quantities or large quantities can be supplied within 8 to 10 days) The pulleys which are not in our catalogue can be developed as per standard specification within 3 to 4 weeks.

As the pulleys are moulded in metal it should be handled carefully while making any machinery.

EXPERIENCE THE QUALITY OF TUFF PLAST FROM ITS RUGGED AND DEPENDABLE "GEAR PUMP" Material

: Body / Shaft / Bearings from high quality S.S. material (SS316) Gears made from excellent quality of Engineering Plastic (Material for safe usage in Food & Chemical Industry Mechanical Oil seals protect from any possible leakage.

Chemical Resistance : Resistance to acids / specific chemicals ( Request to specify use of material for our technical team to guide) Power Requirement : 3 Phase / 0.5 HP Motor / 1440 rpm Capacity : Available in - 25 LPM,40 LPM , 50 LPM - Suitable for 2 Bar Pressure Accuracy : 0.1 gram CAUTION : SUGGESTED TO AVOID DRY RUN OF THE PUMP Applications : Milk & Milk Products- Ghee, Butter Milk Edible & Non edible Oils Chemical Slurrys Greases

Beware of Duplicate products made from inappropriate plastic material

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Mob: 8080 94 7210 8080 92 8839

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November 2019

EVENT REPORT

November 2019

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SHOW REPORT

SIRIUS TWISTING TECHNOLOGY

Excellence through time

Sirius represents the Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-forone twisting, ensuring high structural standardization, a wide range of feeding and spindle dimensions for every yarn type and count.

The electronic solutions simplify the operator intervention, allowing to obtain every possible combination of parameters in order to reach the best output working condition.

SIMPLE, RELIABLE STATE OF THE ART TWISTING

Excellence through time Marketed by: A.T.E. ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED A-19, CTS No 689,Veera Desai Road Andheri (West) Mumbai - 400053, India Tel: +91-22-66766100 E-mail: spinning@ateindia.com

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Cosmos represents a further Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-for-one twisting, ensuring maximum cost-effectiveness of the technological process through manufacturing solutions that allow a reduction in investment with a minimum of energy consumption.

In this way, the machine productivity, the quality of the end product, the technological flexibility are maximized together with low investment cost.

SAVIO INDIA LTD. Tamaraikulam P.O, Kinathukadavu T.K Pollachi, Coimbatore - 642109 Tamil Nadu, India Tel. +91 4259 201500 E-mail: mail@savioindia.in

SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A. Via Udine, 105, 33170 Pordenone, Italy Tel. +39 0434 3971 Fax +39 0434 397599 www.saviospa.it

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November 2019

SHOW REPORT 100% NATURAL ORIGIN

PRESENTING RAYSIL 100% NATURAL AND UNMATCHED IN ELEGANCE. Made from premium, imported wood pulp that gives a feather-light feel, vivid colours and a natural lustre for new age royalty.

Contact: Mumbai: 022-66917930/31 Surat: 0261-4003361/62/66 Delhi: 011-41306630/31

VISCOSE FILAMENT YARNS FROM INDIAN RAYON November 2019

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raysil@adityabirla.com www.adityabirla.com

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November 2019