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EDITORIAL
Changing the women’s wear, Challenge for the Market
“Men’s are from Mars and Women’s are from Venus” How true it is..!!! Women’s are compared with Venus ; the planet of creativity. Women’s have many choices in dressing from Indian to Western, from Asian to Middle east. World has seen women’s changes di erent wear from time to time, from country to country. Covering body parts are the main objective for clothes introduction in the world. Clothing started from Tree leaves to natural bers ( Cotton, silk, wool, Jute etc) then man-made bers ( Polyester, Viscose, etc). Today clothing not just a basic need but it’s a self expression of Personality / Style/ Self image of con dent, independent women of today. According to Technopak report: The INR 78, 500 crore (USD 14.4 billion) worth womens wear market contributes 38% of the total apparel market of India. The growth of this market is more rapid than the menswear market. With the relatively lower penetration of brands, and the growing disposable income of modern women, this segment has become the focus of many Indian and international brands. Growing at 9 % CAGR. Denim is growing at CAGR of 17%, women’s innerwear at 14%, and tops/ shirts/T-shirts at 11%. Men’s Suiting / shirting segment which are branded in India and internationally with a class and sophistication. But Women’s wear still not considered “the branded segment”. Women’s category divides the segments in local brands, Designer label, International / National brands, Roadside or Export Reject. When we visit CMAI fair (India’s largest local branded garment show), we can see women’s wear brand participants are highest which include collection of ethnic, indo western, Indian ( Salwar-suit/ Kurties/ Leg wear) garments. This local brands sells only in Indian market. Selling / Marketing dynamics changed now. Local Brands not only depend upon their channel partners like wholesale, retail, MBO or EBO but now home based Women entrepreneur who sells from home or local exhibition also taking it up at great speed.
Second category we see as Fashion Designer Label, which are majorly marketed though Fashion weeks. Eg. LFW. Majorly ethic wears with hefty price tag for special occasions like wedding, engagement etc. Sell through personal showroom or malls. Third category, International/ National men’s brand are owners stepping to women’s category. Eg Ven Heusen, Siyaram, many more. These brands noticing the growth rate of women’s wear is faster than men’s wear. Fourth category is Road side garments, this may be export reject or samples made by manufactures, which is fashionable yet a ordable to lower and middle class consumer. Sold in street, trains, unorganized market. According to technopak advisor “The future of the apparel market and the innerwear category, looks promising. At the same time, fashion retailers have to face some daunting challenges prior to tapping the extant opportunities. Rising real estate costs, increasing power tari s and supply chain ine ciencies are some of the issues that have to be tackled with utmost prudence. The growth story of Indian consumption is expected to revive in the medium to long term, but it will require improvements in the overall business performance and managerial prudence of the highest degree to bene t from this growth. To emerge a winner in a market marked by the presence of multiple players, brands and retailers have to optimize their business operations by addressing the challenges and harnessing market opportunities. Understanding the psyche of the Indian consumer, amalgamating the Indian style of functioning with western management techniques, and tailoring fashion o erings to de ned consumer segments, are some of the key areas upon which fashion and innerwear players have to focus.” Thanks for reading, your feedback will be highly appreciated.
Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every e ort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
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October 2015
CONTENT COVER STORY: Changing Women’s wear, Challenge for the market
11- From the Cabin to Cockpit by Mr. Vishnu Govind 12- Changing habits of Women’s wear in India by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
October 2015 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Editorial Advisor Shri V.Y. Tamhane Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA
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13-Example : Visgar Polytex 14- Garbage to Glamour by Dr. Sabita Baruah & Mrs. Milan Desai 15- Siyaram in women’s category by Mr. Harshit Poddar 16- 109f & Fusion bears Collection AW 2015 NEWS CORPORATE
17- Suryalaxmi Cotton Mills & Aditya Birla 18- Cotton USA & Birla Liva brand 19- Threadsol & Global Change Award ASSOCIATION
20- ATDC & FOHMA 21- FICCI & BOMBAY YARN MERCHANT 22- ITAMMA ARTICLES
23- by Ms. Juhi Agarwal & Dr. Ela Dedhia 26- Financial Currency War ( Yuan Vs USD) by Mr. Arvind Sinha SHOW/ EVENT REPORT
28- PRESS MEET: INDIA ITME 2016 29- AGM MEET: FAITMA 30- Post Show : ITF- Dubai 31- Post Event : All India Exporters Chamber 32- Seminar by Kushal in Surat 33-Post Show : Yarnex & Texindia 34- CIRCOT Visit by Textile Friends Group ITMA 2015 PRODUCT LAUNCH
27- Rieter 35- Colorjet 36- Jupiter & Kuster Calico 37- Textechno 38- Picanol REPORT
39- Cotton 42- Show Calendar
Back Page: Raymond
Page 10 : YFA
Back Inside : Liva
Page 43 : BSL Suiting
Front Inside : RSWM
Page 44 : Non Woven Tech
Page 3: Narain Synthetics
Page 45 : Sanjay Plastic
Page 5: Bajaj Fab
Page 46 : PRD cotton
Page 7 : SGS Innovation
Page 47: Dalal Engineering
Page 8 : INTEX
Page 48 : ITMACH
Page 9 :Rabatex
Page 49 : Dynamic Loom
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October 2015
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN |MARCH- 2015
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June 2015
COVER STORY FROM THE CABIN TO THE COCKPIT Shri Vishnu Govind Independent Brand Consultant Business Director - Thinkkloud
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ast evening when I was ying into Mumbai, we were greeted by a femaie voice from the cockpit of the plane, she told us about the ight path and gave us an idea aboutwhat to expect in the journey; in about anhours’ time, she instructed the cabin crew to prepare for landing; she seemed to be on top of her job and made us feel we were in safe hands!I was coming back home after judging a Management Case Competition in which each participating team had four members, all B-School students, who will be our managers of tomorrow, building the industry in the coming days. It was an intensely competitive event with each team trying their best to make the right impression. As it turned out, the winning team comprised of four girls. So as I got into the car for the drive home, I ruminated over the events of a busy day. One of the things that kept coming to my mind is the arrival of the young, ambitious Indian woman. She has started breaking through corporate stereotypes and has begun making a mark in professions that were hitherto considered male bastions. Talking of stereotypes, when we think of Cabin Crew, who comes to your mind-a man or a woman? And how about when we think of an airline pilot? Well, this is exactly the point I was making. Allow me to clarify one thing here, I am talking only of stereotypes and breaking down of territorial boundaries between men and women in a working environment, as an observation, and not being judgmental ofwhat is aspirational and who suits what- I don’t consider myself quali ed enough for that! Urban India has been a witness in recent years, to a huge rise in the number of ‘working women’- a term that I don’t agree with, for it hints at the fact that women who do not seek an employment and stay at home to manage domestic a airs, are not ‘working’ - and nothing can be farther from the truth. Coming back to the point I was making, there is an increasing number of women who work in the corporate world, this has triggered a huge demand for business wear for women in India. The sari for long has been, and continues to be, a symbol of elegance and it’s been a while since the Salwar Kameez has become a ‘core product’ in every part of the country, to use a marketing term. Western Wear, owing to the emerging scenario, is now on a high and has become a fast growing segment. There is a huge business opportunity out there and quite a few challenges too. We will take a look at some of these aspects, in this article. Indian readymade market has been on a boom in the last two decades; this has largely been driven by menswear brands with large corporates playing a signi cant role. Brand penetration has been low in womenswear and many menswear brands have ventured into womenswear in an attempt to grow their user base and to scale up their businesses. It was not easy for anyone in the beginning, some persisted, while some decided to wind up after initial turbulence as they realized the enormity of the challenge. For those who decided not to pursue, widening their o ering in menswear and building a brand architecture around that seemed
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more feasible. Around 2008, when there was a downturn in the economy causing immense pressure on growth and pro tability, many brands found it not justi able to incubate new business ideas which could not make money in the short term, though they held good long-term potential. Brands found it hugely challenging to handle the variety in ts and cuts that womenswear comes in; organizations with a long legacy in menswear found it di cult to adapt to the challenges posed by the new category. Getting the body sizes right is something brands found most di cult and the ones that persisted with it, have managed to get closer to the requirements over a period of time. Traditionally, womenswear in India was largely about clothing that is draped with “one-size- ts-all” being the order of the day; hence getting a stitched garment to t speci c sizes was challenging and a territory not well-explored before.One way to pick learning on an emerging category is to look at how it evolved in markets where is has matured as a business. If we look at Western countries, they have well-developed sizing practices which are achieved through ‘anthropometric’ processes that involve large sizing surveys. The knowledge base that comes through such initiatives is very low in India, when it comes to clothing for women. With women in leadership positions in businesses, there is a rising demand for formals and business suits. Getting a perfect business suit stitched is tougher for a woman in India than it is for man, for the simple reason that there are not as many established businesses that deal with it. The ethnic and regional diversity in the country makes itimmensely challenging for a readymade business to cater to the sizing demands all across the country. The need for good quality plus size clothing is felt strongly in the country, this is yet another reason for us to feel that custom tailoring of Western Wear for women is a business with ample scope. There are many women who look for larger ts and ful ll their needs when they travel abroad or through the online route from foreign brands and retailers. These are people with good purchasing power and willingness to spend, butare not getting what they want. Made to Measure clothing is an emerging branded service that is gaining ground. While readymade brands have snatched mass markets from fabric brands, there is still a demand for precisionstitched garments for special occasions, or for even regular occasions if the user has a certain bent of mind that seeks perfection. There are consumers who are in genuine need for tailored garments who may not get their desired sizes in regular brands, and might have to rely on brands that make extra large clothes, that, as of now, do not o er them su cient variety. Made to Measure is a premium service that gives you factory nish with customized ts; if the customer has enough disposable income and is positively predisposed to the idea that Made to Measure stands for, they will nd an attractive proposition in it. This scenario is applicable for womenswear, just as it is the case with menswear.
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Finding the right service provider for their sartorial needs is something many women don’t nd easy. There are many boutique businesses that are set up keeping mind the needfor tailored businesswear among women, however they need to be scaled up from the perspective of quality as well as capacity. Currently ecommerce is riding a wave as far as apparel business is concerned; at the face of it, custom-tailored solutions have some inherent disadvantages given the fact that they may not come with the same level of convenience that readymade apparel does. The fact of the matter, however, is that custom tailoring is not about convenience; it is about precision, or a speci c need that is not met otherwise. A robust technology-based platform can give the service providers an interface with their target customer. Even in India, there are pure-play online retailers who are into custom tailoring.In most cases, for a reasonable time frame, getting a customer’s measure-
ments is a one-time activity; once the customer’s measurements are available with the retailer, reordering tailored garments as per the same sizes can be made to be as simple as online shopping of readymade garments. There could be business ideas emerging out of this model as well. What you wear speaks a lot about you; your clothes start talking on behalf of you even before you have uttered a word. Corporate World is fast-paced and as they say, you do not get a second chance to make a good rst impression. The upwardly mobile and socially active woman of today is ambitious and keen to make a mark for herself in the work place; she is building her career and not just doing a job to augment the family income. She appreciates quality and is willing to pay a premium for it. Each woman is unique and likes making a style statement that is unique- which is exactly what customized clothing gives her!
Changing Habits of Women’sWear in India
Shri Avinash Mayekar MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd. What appeals most to the global fashion culture as far as India is concerned is, “Indian beautiful and fashionable woman.” Right from likes of SushmitaSen&AishwairyaRai, since beauty pageants started happening; Indian women has come out with ying coloursin global fashion world like colourful India. From traditional wear to ethnic wear Indian woman changes style from Kanyakumari to Himalaya and Modern Mumbai to Untouched culture of North East. However, Today’s Indian woman is self-styled, con dent, and independent. There is a drastic change not only in her body language but also her clothing style.
Textile industry is most ancient industry in India. Our clothing style changes not only with the religion, state or caste but also with festivals & occasions. We have di erent roles to play in this diversity of clothing styles. Indian woman is highly fashion conscious with very good sense of color. If we see the woman from lowest of the class in India, she is very well conscious about her matching e.g. the maid coming to our house for daily chores is also wearing matching blouse & petticoat with her sari. One can de nitely say, “Indian woman is born with inherent color
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sense in her genes”. With the changing time, number of working women has increased & this has given them more freedom to spend on their clothing. Today, most of the working women prefer western formal wear like shirts, blazers, trousers & skirts over Indian wear like punjabi dresses, kurtis& saris. Mrs. Nainapanchalwho works with top MNC says “Western formal wear o ers me sense of con dence. It also gives me comfort & ease of movement. Being a married woman with two kids, I left with very less time for myself to get ready. Western wear are less time consuming to wear so I prefer wearing western than Indian formals at work place”. So, apart from Indian wear, we can nd western wear like shirts, trousers, skirts & blazer in today’s working woman wardrobe.
College goer girlsform a major chunk in the total woman population in India. Today’s college going teenage girl has strong impact of movies on her clothing style. Sheis con dently following most of current fashion trends from latest movies. If you check out the wardrobe of a college going teenage girl, you will nd denims, T-shirts, tops, skirts, shorts, shrugs & jackets. Today’s teenage girl is de nitely more
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October 2015
conscious about her looks. Her clothing style has become part of her personality. She likes to set her own style statement. If I recall my college days there was not much of fashion awareness as compared to today’s generation. They are more con dent in adapting current fashion trends than past generations. Today, the woman in 40’s&50’s is equally fashion conscious as teenage. We see her trying new clothing styles. Apart from Punjabi dresses & saris, we often see her in denims & t-shirts. 48 years old Mrs. SmritiVaidya (a house wife) says “My daughter once bought me pair of denims & T-shirts which I wore rst time in my life. Today, I am confortable in wearing western wear. It gives me sense of being young & also connects more to my young daughter” Designer clothing is becoming popular trend amongst Indian woman. For the occasions like weddings, engagements & other parties, they prefer to wear specially designed clothes by designers rather than buying from normal shops. Mrs. Abha Bose says “Designer clothes make me stand out in the parties. I do not want to look common, so I specially use designer clothes for parties”. Few years back designer clothes were only limited to celebrities, but today common woman is also aunting her with designer clothes. Though, today westernization has great impact on Indian women wear, “Sari” is most commonly used attire in India. The Sari is associated with grace. There are more than 80 recorded ways to wear a sari. The Sari is the commonly worn when it comes to occasions like wedding & festivals. Sari has crossed all boundaries & is now famous amongst western countries as well.
The fashion evolutionis driven by the changing lifestyles of Indian woman. Growing income levels & increasing fashion awareness are major growth drivers to changing habits of Indian woman wear. Online shopping is new craze in Indian woman. It gives them exposure to latest fashion trends. Some of bene ts like thousands of brands under one roof, heavy discounts, no long queues, no tra cs, easy price comparison, user friendly shopping websitesor apps & easy return policy make it more popular amongst woman.
Not surprisingly, online retailers, such as Snapdeal, Myntra, eBay, Fashion and You, Shopclues and American Swan have also seen a 16-20 per cent increase in the sale of dresses in the last three months. When it comes to new fashion trend, it rst hit tier-1 cities which gradually moves to tier-2 & tier- 3 cities in India. Rural areas are still in nascent stage in adapting new fashion trends. Television has played major contribution to changing fashion trends in Indian women. As television has reached to farthest of rural region in India, rural population is becoming aware on upcoming trends in woman wear. Today, fashion has no money barrier. Stylish clothing is available at cheaper rates in roadside shops. Theseare most popular in college goers & low income groups. Most of the latest trend clothings are available in these shops. Some of famous fashion markets like Linking road, Fashion Street &Sarojini Nagarare crowded round the year. On the other hand, market for branded clothes in women wear is also on rise in past few years. Growing population of working woman is major growth driver for the rise in purchase of branded clothes. Many of the retailers consider this as an opportunity. Multi-brand fashion retailer Lifestyle has introduced more styles across brands such as Code, Ginger and Van Heusen to further strengthen their dress o erings. International brands like Zara, Hennes&Mauritz are planning to grow their capacities in multi folds in coming future considering the growing demand from Indian woman. This is surely a golden period for Indian women wear as today’s Indian woman is con dently adapting new fashion trends & not just blindly following it. It’s not just red-carpet-hopping Ash, Sonam and Katrina who are ‘dress’-ing up with a vengeance these days. From kitty party habitués to cool moms and execs to trendy students, thousands of Indian women are following suit. Modern nanis&dadis are seen wearing trendy clothes today.Fashion has certainly grown from classes to masses. Indian women wear market is set to grow in multi folds in coming years which is a huge opportunity for retailers & Indian fashion industry!
Visagar Polytex launches rst retail outlet in Mumbai Also, aims to empower women through its unique franchisee model; targets Rs 5-7 crore turnover within 12 months Mumbai based Visagar Polytex Limited, which is engaged into manufacturing, retail and trading of women’s ethnic wear has launched its rst retail outlet in Mumbai. This is the company’s 14th retail outlet in the country under the brand name - VIVIDHA, others being present at Rajasthan, Gujarat and West Bengal. Visagar Polytex also aims at partnering with aspiring women entrepreneurs through its unique franchisee model. Coming out
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with an innovative way of doing business, Visagar Polytex (VPL) has launched the ‘Home Based Opportunity Scheme’ (HBO), which brings on board aspiring women entrepreneurs who have air for doing business. The scheme will be operated from the Mumbai’s VIVIDHA Showroom. With the belief in empowering women the company aims to
eliminate the need for wholesale channel and use the strong personal relations and network of these women to drive the sales of women’s ethnic wear.
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With the rst launch city being Mumbai, the company expects a gradual but mass participation in this scheme. The company is already seeing good response for the scheme and expects an enrollment of atleast 500 members with a turnover of Rs 5 - 7 crore within the 12 months from Mumbai itself.To become a HBO member and start her business, the woman would be required to bring in a minimum investment of Rs. 25,000/-. This being a semi-refundable deposit, against which, the company would provide her a stock of approximately Rs. 31,000/- (at factory prices) to be sold using her network. Members will get 10 days facility to return the goods and take refund (upto Rs. 15,000/-) of their deposits and a 20 day credit to settle the bill. If the members clear the entire bill within 15 days without taking refund, the member would be entitled to a pre-payment bonus. Commenting on the launch, Mr Tilokchand Kothari CMD, VPL said, “The launch of VIVIDHA is a signi cant achievement for us and we hope this store will give us an opportunity to increase our brand presence and to reach out to a wider target audience.� He also mentioned, “We are pleased to launch this unique scheme, which an aspiring woman can e ortlessly start her business with minimum entry barriers, a range of facilities, earn pride
and respect amongst her family members and social circles by realizing dreams of owning and managing a successful ethnic wear home based business.� He further added, “Woman have always preferred references from other women while buying sarees or ethnic wear, which gives her a feel of reliability and trust. This works much faster than the traditional model of a walk-in customer. We understand this and hence we have gone ahead with model.�
About Visagar Polytex Visagar Polytex Ltd is engaged in textile manufacturing, wholesale, retail & trading business. They manufacture & wholesale Sarees/ Lehangas/ Suits through our o ces at Surat & Kolkata. Its in-house design teams at Surat & Kolkata enable trend-setting and high quality products ensuring wonderful response from our clients based all over the country. The company also retails ethnic wear through a chain of company owned ‘VIVIDHA’ branded retail showrooms with plans to roll out franchise showrooms soon all over the country especially North & West India. It is the only company in the huge Saree/ Lehanga/ Suit segment (Design /Manufacturing/ Wholesale/ Retail) to be listed on the BSE & NSE. ‰
Garbage to Glamour D . S B , C ! , F " ! D#" $! SVT C H S SNDT W ’ U
In the city of Mumbai, crows perched upon rooftops caw incessantly every morning to draw man’s attention to the menace of plastic bags strewn in the streets. Nevertheless, the pleas of the crows to rid the city of plastic bags seem to fall on deaf ears. Incidentally, Indian society has been known to display a spiritual indifference to the garbage crisis! Most modern societies joining the industrial rat race are not seriously committed to the idea of recycling plastic waste. In fact, the idea of recycling plastic bags usually conjures up images of an army of a rag pickers rummaging through a mound of garbage. However, most people might be unaware that discarded plastic bags can be given a new lease of life when intelligently converted into attractive consumer products and fashion accessories t for the royalty. In this paper therefore, an attempt is being made to inspire students of Fashion Design to use discarded plastic bags and create a new range of products as a part of the Make in India initiative. As a basic raw material, plastic provides an inexpensive lightweight alternative that has the added advantage of being molded easily into intricate shapes. Plastic products are also highly durable.
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M ". M % ! D#" , A P SVT C H S SNDT W ’ U Unfortunately however, when plastic is used in the manufacture of disposable products for everyday use, their durability becomes a curse. Durability leads to serious environmental problems. One approach would be to introduce a Permit Raj in India severely curtail the use of plastic by industry. Another approach would be to make plastic products highly recyclable. This way, discarded plastic goods can take to reincarnation and appear on store shelves in their new avatar. All this begins with recycling, and with a little help from the local rag picker. As a starter, discarded plastic bags can be converted into trendy hand bags. By using the traditional crochet technique, garbage bag remnants of di erent colors can be locked into exciting geometrical patterns to produce hand bags t for the fashion ramps. Trash bags that had once been banished to land lls have now come back to haunt mainstream civil society in the form of exquisite swim ware. Thanks to recycling. What was once good for the lthy land ll is now good for the local celebrity’s wardrobe. Surely, recycling has hit a new level and is breathing new life into trash. Acknowledgement Thanks to Samidha Singh ,student of Fashion design, for modeling and Sweta Patel, student of fashion ‰
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October 2015
COVER STORY Siyaram in woman’s category M . H " P S S M
Siyaram’s Silk Mills Ltd. is a company known for its textile prowess. Our forte for decades has been our product line in the menswear capacity. Over the last few years we have decided to diversify our portfolio and extend our product range to a new spectrum of women’s wear along with men’s casual wear from our traditional men’s formal clothing line.
brands, leads us to believe that the modern consumer will be able to relate to our brand. The con dence of the Indian consumer in the decades old Siyaram’s brand will instill an inherent con dence in our new clothing line. Our quality standards and commitment to excellence will ensure that the consumer will be getting exactly what is promised to them on our product.
Women’s wear as an industry in India has traditionally been rather conservative. It’s only since the last few years that Western ideology has percolated this segment of Indian clothing. The rural or B-town markets have usually been more concerned with value for money on their products. If a designer charged a certain amount of money, the product should display that kind of work (for example – if it is more expensive, then that much of embroidery should be noticed on the product). Now as a whole the consumer purchasing pattern seems to have shifted towards styling and better fabrics. This shift is a welcome change for clothing lines such as ours. Women’s wear was and is a design dependent industry, but the consumer is starting to take notice of comfort and better fabrics. Customers are beginning to pay more money for a fabric that might have a better fall (look) or better comfort.Siya, our recently launched women’s clothing brand, stands to bene t from this change and provides the customers with a more modern outlook of the traditional Indian dressing style.
We foresee brands to play a big role in the women’s wear industry as they will help establish trust and a certain consistency in the product that may have been missing in this segment due to its incoherent nature.
We, as innovators in the textile segment are looking to tap into the women’s wear industry with the approach that we will be able to provide the latest designs in the most comfortable fabrics. This will mark a shift in women’s wear from the traditional styling and use of fabrics. Customers will be able to pick and choose new designs and colors in fabrics that may not have been available before. Our in house designers currently cater to our varied and extensive export brands. This plays a major role in honing their skills and increases their expertise on a global front and ensures fresh and modern approach to our Indian clothing line. The unorganized nature of this industry and a lack of national
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With the continuous growth in the Indian economy,we notice a sharp growth in the consumer purchasing parity, especially in the women’s wear industry. With more number of women working and contributing to household incomes, a fresh approachand demandin the segment is expected. There’s a stark di erence between Men’s and Women’s wear. Men’s wear is not as design dependent as women’s wear. The variations in design, color and styling are much more subtle. Products tend to last longer and overall have a larger life cycle. On the other hand, in women’s clothing we notice that product life cycles last for very small periods of time and there is always a hunger for new designs and a craving for something di erent, fresh and exclusive, a need to break out of the monotonous styling. Our brand specializes in fabrics with innovative nishes. We have created new wrinkle free fabrics, which in comparison to existing fabrics wrinkle to a much lesserdegree. We are also heralding new Innovative weaves that will project themselves asa design on their own without any value addition. The last year of market research suggests that the trend is shifting towards the end consumerchoosing more convenient methods of clothing. They are moving towards salwar suits from saris, and from unstitched to readymade. Convenient and attractive designs are taking the forefront across the segment and are gaining a lot of movement from the end consumers. The products that we supply at present include SalwarKameezDupatta (unstitched, ready to stitch, semi–stitched), Indian
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embroidered gowns, Kurtis (stitched), Leggings and Palazzos. Fashion itself seems to work in a cycle. If we look at today’s trends we can see women starting to move back to designs and styles from the 80’s or 90’s, where women wore high waist pants, or slim ts. We are also trying to understand this shift in styling and cyclical nature and are always evolving and adapting to the consumer’s choice. Colouris one of the greatest design elementsin a woman’s decision making process. In this we take our inspiration from the west. Our tie – ups with brands in the UK and Italy, and also other established design houses in Europe have helped us become trendset-
ters in the Indian market in terms of productdesigns with the right colours, fabric, and styling and gives us a leap start for marketing and creating a foothold in the Indian consumer’s heart. We endeavor to establish ourselves as a national brand in the segment and innovators in the years to come. Siyaram’s Silk Mills Ltd. has a well-knownslogan, “Coming home to Siyaram’s”. With the addition of SIya, our women’s wear brand, bringing the best products in the segment for the quintessential Indian woman at a ordable prices, we can now say “Come home to family”.
109 F & FUSION BEATS LAUNCHES THE DIVA & ESCAPADE COLLECTION FOR AUTUMN-WINTER 2015
Leading women’s fashion apparel brands, 1090 F and Fusion Beats unveiled their much-awaited AutumnWinter 2015 Collection. When comfort blends with style, the outcome is the vivacious and trendy collections that make up the 1090F AW’15 Diva Collection. The Fusion Beats AW ’15 range revolves around the ‘ESCAPADE’ of the urban girl who is passionate and often inspired by di erent ideas, attitudes and experiences.
monochromatic color combo o ers 80s and 90s inspired geometrics in a more subtle monochrome, alternative with fun shapes repeated in a mature colorway. This brings an uncomplicated clarity that is attering for all body types. Pink continues to be a major colour trend this season. It manages to take an elegant twist with vintage inspirations on contemporary fashion while still being demure and re ned. The timely elegant lace patterns and smudgy ikats are simple but a stunning a air. It takes the ordinary detail that often gets overlooked and elevates it to new heights. With inspirations taken from the Rubik’s Cube, we see bold graphic pop geometrics seemingly random in shape. A classic approach is seen in clear cut dainty shapes that forms a mix of sophistication and smartness. The essential new attributes seen in the collection are mix patterns, cutwork, laces, sheers and layers.
The Diva Collection by 1090F has been carefully designed keeping in mind the young cosmopolitan women, who have multiple facets. From corporate chic to poolside chill, the Diva is constant in all your looks. For the Fusion Beats girls, her escapades bring out the various inspirations that de ne her sense of style which she picks up on her adventurous journeys.
The range draws its inspiration from the elaborate Moroccan rugs and exquisite tile arts. The staple bohemian touch comes through the RABARI tribe inspired collection which has subtle hints of gold. The FUSION festive range is put together with palazzos and free owing skirts in jacquards which are fashionably teamed with corset t tops with long and short layering.
Commenting on the collection, Mr. Radhesh Kagzi said, “Our Autumn Winter 2015 Collection is for the contemporary young women across age groups and geographical dimensions. The contemporary 1090 F & Fusion Beats woman works towards her dreams and makes a di erence. We at Creative Lifestyles have always been committed to fostering a culture that empowers women. The Autumn Winter 2015 Collection is inspired by and dedicated to these very women.” About 1090 F Autumn – Winter 2015 Collection: The collection of 1090 F A/W 2015 is inspired by contemporary times. It celebrates the Diva in every woman, across every walk of life. Making every day an occasion worthy of celebration. This trendy collection o ers the complete package of colors and style ready to t seamlessly into all wardrobes. It is an amalgamation of prints and patterns, which o er a wide range of perfect prêt. The
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About Fusion Beats Autumn – Winter 2015 Collection:
The winter line has nely woven jacquards that fall into lovely capes and throws. The detachable jackets, rug inspired sweaters and bombers inspire a high-winter trend that combines the keen sense of adventure with a fascination for the great outdoors. This lifestyle trend combines modern functionality with traditional inspiration. The perfect Fusion of modern meets earthy on their way to self-discovery.
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October 2015
CORPORATE NEWS
India’sleading Denim producer Suryalakshmi Cotton successfully commissions its 4thstate-of-the-art plant in Amravati, Maharashtra y
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Built at a cost of Rs.131crore, the fully automated and ultra-modern unitwillmanufacture high-grade, value-added fancy yarns such as Ring Slub, Stretch, Elli Twist and Compact. 40% of the yarns manufactured in the plant will be consumed by the company’s captive denim fabric unit at Nagpur, Maharashtra and the balance will be sold to global and domestic players. The state-of-the-art plant deploys world-class technologiesand will help Suryalakshmi Cotton to continue its market leadership through premium products at premium prices.
Suryalakshmi Cotton, India’s leading integrated yarn-to-garment manufacturing company, announced the successful commissioning of its 4thstate-of-the-art plant in Amravati, Maharashtra.With a total investment of Rs.131crore, the plant has commenced operations with the world’s most advanced and energy e cient technology. The plant includes fully automated, stateof-the art, imported spinning technology and is in line with the company’s strategy to produce value-added and premium fancy yarns. With the addition of 26,000spindles to its existing capacity of 61,000, the total spindle capacity at Suryalakshmi Cotton goes up to 87,000 spindles.Trial runs at the plant have been successfully completed
Aditya Birla Private Equity invests for a minority stake in Creative Lifestyle with a valuation over Rs. 300 Crore October 2015
and theplant is entering commercial production of yarnsfrom 25thSeptember, 2015. Commenting on the Company’s latest milestone, Mr.ParitoshAgarwal, Managing Director, said, “The plant is a strategic landmark in our company’s vision of building world-class facilities in line with ever changing global fashion trends.Set up within stipulated timelines with no cost overruns, it proves our superior execution and process skills. With commencement of operations at the new plant, we will signi cantly cut down our dependence on third-party vendors for procuring yarnenabling better quality control and increased cost e ciencies. “With fancy yarns being a premium product and high margin business, we anticipate annual revenues of Rs.150 crore plus from this plantalone.Most importantly, the in-house unit expands our scope to invest in R&D enabling us to be in sync with the latest trends in the world of denim and to cater to international and domestic fashion demands more e ectively.The high value yarns produced in this plant would be used for captive consumption in our denim division. Also, the plant shall utilize power from our 25 MW captive power plant, further addingto the Company’s bottom line” he added. Taking inspiration from our honorable Prime Minister ShriNarendraModi’s call for‘Made in India, Sold to the World’, Suryalakshmi Cotton hopes to produce international quality fancy yarns and sell it to buyers across the globe and in India. Located in Amravati, which is the cotton belt of Maharashtra, the unit has abundant access to high quality raw material and Aditya Birla Private Equity, has invested for a minority stake in Creative Lifestyles Pvt. Ltd,(Creative Lifestyle) with a valuation of over Rs. 300 Crore. Creative Lifestyle is the owner of Women’s apparel brands, 109F, Fusion Beats and O2xygen. Aditya Birla Private Equity has invested through it’s Sunrise Fund. The consumption
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labor. Further, it is fully compliant to leverage the interest subsidy bene ts provided by the Central and State Governments. The plant would provide direct employment to around 250 people and indirect employment to many more.The plant will utilize power from the Company’s 25MW captive thermal power plant at Ramtek and thus enable substantial lowering of power costs. On its part, the Ramtek power plantwould increase its production of electricity to cater to the needs of the Amravati unit. Suryalakshmi Cotton is a leading producer of denim fabric in the country with a capacity of 40 million meters p.a. and well positioned as an Original Denim Manufacturer (ODM) to both international and domestic markets. This step is in continuation ofthe company’s strategic endeavor to create presence across all 3 value chains of clothing– yarn, denim fabric and garments. The plant will help the company in creating a robust strategy to intertwinelatest fashion trends across the three divisions. This will also de-risk the company’s revenues and at the same time help in maintaining a focus on high-value high-margin businesses. About Suryalakshmi Cotton: Founded in 1962, Suryalakshmi Cotton is a vertically integrated business leveraging ve decades of successful spinning, denim and garment operations.With cutting-edge design, latest spinning technology and endto-end manufacturing plants, the companymanufactures the nest yarn, premium denim fabric and garments for leading private labels, fashion brands and retail chains in 29 countries across the globe.
space to which Creative belongs is one of the four stated focus areas of the fund. Founded in 2006, Creative Lifestyle, is a agship company of the Mumbai based Creative Garments group which has been in operations since 1973. Mr. Birendra Agarwal teamed up with industry veteran Mr Rahul Mehta to setup Creative Lifestyle, to foray
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into Women’s branded apparel. . Commenting on the investment Mr. D Muthukumaran, CEO of Aditya Birla Private Equity said, “We are excited to be part of the growth story at Creative Lifestyle. In the last 9 years, the Creative team has built up a strong presence in the Women’s branded apparel segment., which we believe has high potential for exponential growth in the coming years”. Mr Birendra Agarwal, Founder and Chairman at Creative Lifestyle stated that “We believe our partnership with Aditya Birla Private Equity will help in taking the for KAO, Inc., a Tokyo-based global manufacturer of personal care and household products, has been named executive director of Cotton Council International (CCI), effective October 1.
BRUCE ATHERLEY NAMED EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF COTTON COUNCIL INTERNATIONAL Bruce Atherley, who most recently served as vice president, Global Marketing
Experience the season’s hottest new trend – Natural Fluid Fashion (Now brands)
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LIVA – the recently launched brand of fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, unveils its latest campaign with the fashion goddess and brand ambassador –KanganaRanaut. Made with natural bers, LIVA promises an experience of natural uid fashion with an all new perspective this season. Fluid fashion is about wearing uid garments that transform the way you look and feel. The entire range of garments made of Liva fabrics can be experienced at leading retail outlets like Global Desi, Pantaloon, Lifestyle, Shoppers Stop, Allen Solly, VanHuesen among other stores. The way to identify Liva garments is through the vibrant pink Liva tag. The tag assures that the fabric in the garment has the most liquid and soft drape and is made of natural, ecofriendly bres.
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CCI is the export promotions arm of the Memphis-based National Cotton Council of America (NCC). Headquartered in Washington, DC, and with a reach extending to more than 50 countries through 17 o ces worldwide, CCI uses trade services and consumer promotion activities to increase exports of U.S. cotton ber, manufactured cotton goods, cottonseed and their products in Asia, Europe, Africa, and Central and South America. “While new to the cotton industry, Bruce brings an outstanding record of success in global marketing and management,” NCC President/CEO Gary Adams said. “His marketing career has established a track The latest campaign with Kangana, brings alive the unique attribute of the fabric i.e. uidity. This dramatic expression of uidity and dynamism has been achieved on the static medium i.e. Print and Outdoor through a unique shoot and post production work. The campaign will be out this week and will continue till mid-December. Speaking on the occasion and why she chose to endorse the brand, Liva’s brand ambassador and Bollywood queen, KanganaRanaut said, .“LIVA is a very special fabric. I was pleasantly surprised rst time I wore it. It is uid, it is comfortable. Just like liquid, you move it moves. And it is also natural. It delivers its promise of Natural Fluid Fashion!I love fashion! I love dressing up, I think most girls do. So it is great if people nd me fashionable. But fashion for me is about being myself, having a sense of spontaneity that comes from being free spirited. This is what attracted me the most to LIVA fabric when I chose to endorse it .” Speaking further, to the media Kanga-
Company to the next level on the back of an impressive growth we have already achieved since inception in 2006. We will bene t from the right impetus, drive and experience and we are looking forward to working closely with the Aditya Birla team to fully exploit our potential”. 109F, launched in 2006, which caters to casual western wear, has presence in over 366 retail outlets including 35EBOs & 331 Large Format stores. Fusion Beats, an indo western o ering catering to the Indian Women, launched in 2011-12 sells across 10 EBOs and 200 LFOs.
record of introducing brands and products into global markets in Asia, Latin America and Europe.” Atherley previously worked with the William Wrigley Jr Company, serving as its vice president of North American Confections Marketing, and as president and general manager of Wrigley Canada. Prior to that, he held the position of vice president of Retail Marketing for the H.J. Heinz Company. Atherley earned a B.S. in Accounting from Bucknell University and a MBA from the University ofVirginia’s Darden School of Business Administration. He and his wife, Meredith, have threesons.
na said, “my fashion tip to all is to be uid! Don’t restrict yourself to one style. Keep experimenting.Use free owing silhouettes as they atter all body types. Add garments made with uid fabrics in your wardrobe.” Mr K KMaheshwari, Managing Director, Grasim Industries Limited and Group Director Textiles said, “LIVA is an initiative of the Aditya Birla Group towards connecting with the end consumer directly. Consumer love Liva, the natural fabric for its great ow and feel.This is the second season of Liva being present in the market. During SummerSpring 15, when we launched Liva, we had received an overwhelming response. This Autumn-Winter 15 we have added many more brands and partner in this endeavour, so our consumers will be seeing a lot more width and breadth in the designs and garment collections made of Liva fabric.” Currently Liva is available across major fashion retail partners - Global Desi, Pantaloon, Allen Solly , 109 F, Fusion Beats, People, Lifestyle, Melange, Van Huesen, Shoppers Stop, Wills Lifestyle, Reliance Trends, Desi Belle, Ethnicity, Fashion at Big Bazaar, Max.
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October 2015
ThreadSol introduces world’s rst NFC based Production Management System- at CISMA 2015 ThreadSol, the pioneer in enterprise material management for sewn products’ industry, is pleased to announce that its participation in CISMA 2015 (China International Sewing Machinery & Accessories Fair) witnessed huge success and overwhelming response from the top garment manufacturers across23 geographies. ThreadSol participated in CISMA with a debutante charm, recognizing the thriving apparel industry in China. The roaring and transmittable energy of the booth with Founders ManasijGanguli, MausmiAmbastha and Team ThreadSol made Hall E1 (CAD/CAM section) a discernible centrepoint for many. ThreadSol launched the most promising production management tool ever seen in the apparel world- intelloTrace which brings a truly unrivalled and highly potent technology- NFC- to apparel production oor, much to the likes of Google Wallet and Apple Pay,
H&M Conscious Foundation gives €1 million grant to pioneering ideas closing the loop for fashion the H&M Conscious Foundation launches the rst ever Global Change Award one of the world’s biggest challenges for early stage innovation and the rst such initiative in the fashion industry. By catalysing green, truly ground-breaking ideas the aim of the challenge is to protect the earth’s natural resources by closing the loop for fashion. Five winners, chosen by an expert jury, will share a grant of €1 million and get access to a tailor-made innovation accelerator. The global public will be invited to distribute half of the total grant through an online vote. The result will be revealed at a grand award ceremony in Stockholm, in February 2016. “The question for fashion is no longer “What is the new black?” but rather “What innovative ideas can close the loop?” The Global Change Award is looking for ideas that will protect the earth’s natural resources, and I am excited to be part of it,” says Rebecca Earley, Professor in Sustainable Textile and Fashion Design at University of the Arts London, Director of its Textile Futures Research Centre and member of the Global Change Award Jury. The H&M Conscious Foundation is a non-pro t global foundation, funded by the Stefan Persson family founders and main
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the latest innovations using NFC. The thriving need of the industry for a credible and intelligent tracking product is very smartly accomplished by IntelloTrace which encompasses some very exclusive bene ts for the global apparel industry. Apart from the advanced technology, intelloTrace streamlines the factory processes and facilitates customisation as per a factory’s requirement. “IntelloTrace o ers complete visibility right from inventory to shipment, be it operator, department or any section of the factory”, states Ziya K l ç, General Manager at Ozbilim, Turkey. “Moreover one can also track the critical operations as per real-time production requirement of quality or bottleneck, making the deployment exible and cost e ective. Tracking cannot get any simpler.” Predictive AI (Actionable Intelligence reporting) forms the backbone of intel-
loTrace, which provides visual and interactive reports of past performance, present status and future predictions. Click here for the explainer video of intelloTrace. “IntelloTrace is the world’s rst completely mobile phone based production
owners of the Swedish fashion company H&M. The mission of the Foundation is to drive long-lasting positive change and improve living conditions by investing in people, communities and innovative ideas. The Global Change Award takes on one of the biggest challenges facing today’s fashion industry – to create fashion for a growing population while reducing its impact on the environment. Neither the Foundation nor the company H&M will take any equity or intellectual property rights in the innovations. “Ground-breaking, game-changing ideas can come from anywhere, so the challenge is open to anyone. Each year the Global Change Award aims to nd the truly brave and bold ideas that make change. I’m also eager to see how the fashion industry as a whole will embrace the challenge of closing the loop,” says Karl-Johan Persson, board member of the H&M Conscious Foundation and CEO of H&M. The innovation accelerator a collaboration with Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm will give the ve winners the support and knowledge they need to actualize their ideas. Starting o with an innovation boot camp in Stockholm, provided by KTH Innovation, it will be followed up by guidance from Accenture Strategy on how to develop the winning ideas further. This includes the provision of a one-year training and coaching programme with a particular focus on circular economy.
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tracking and management system. With a simple click on your phone, you can view -the problem, the plausible solution and associated reports”, explains ManasijGanguli, CEO at ThreadSol. “The hardware independent nature of IntelloTrace is our striking edge. All NFC-enabled devices are cloud connected, so you get all reports and red ags onyour ngertips on the go.All this, at a much cheaper price than the existing RFID trackers.” ThreadSol solutions- intelloCut and intelloBuy, currently used by manufacturers in India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia and Turkey, have already set standards amongst Sewn Products’ automation solutions worldwide. IntelloCut helps in planningthe cutting oor processes by minimizing wastage and maximizing fabric utilization. IntelloBuy helps in buying right yardages of fabric for the factory. The revolutionary solutions are presently bene ting more than 50 apparel factories helping them save up to 10% fabric cost.
The innovation accelerator will also provide exclusive fashion industry access and o er possibilities to build networks and try out the ideas within the fashion value chain. Information about the Global Change Award, how to apply for a grant and updates on the challenge are available at www.globalchangeaward.com (hashtag #gca2015) Close the Loop and Circular Economy In a world with increasingly constrained resources and environmental challenges, the circular approach represents a radical departure from the old linear “take, make, waste” production and consumption models to a model where products and resources are designed to have more than one life. Closing the loop for fashion means nding new approaches in the whole value chain of the industry; changing the way garments are designed, produced, shipped, bought, used and recycled. The theory about circular economy may be the biggest revolution in the global economy in 250 years as it challenges companies to rethink their business models and customer relationships by detaching growth from the single-use of natural resources and environmental impact. This creates new business opportunities as well as an unassailable competitive advantage.
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ASSOCIATION NEWS Apparel Training and Design Centre (ATDC) Signs MoU with Andhra Pradesh State Skill Development Corporation (APSSDC) In order to accomplish the ever increasing requirement of skilled-youth in the rapidly growing textile/Fashion related sectors,
Apparel Training and Design Centre (ATDC) signed an MOU (Memorandum of Understanding) with Andhra Pradesh State Skill Development Corporation (APSSDC). The MoU was signed in the presence of Honorable Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh Shri N Chandrababu Naidu, Minister Atchannaidu Kinjarapu, Labour & Employment, Factories, Youth & Sports, Skill Development and Entrepreneurship and Shri. Mallikarjuna Rao, Chairman APSSDC at Vijayawada Andhra Pradesh for skill development in textile and garment sector. The MoU was signed between Dr. Darlie Koshy,
DG&CEO, ATDC and Dr. Subbarao Ghanta, MD & CEO, APSSDC. The MoU has been signed initially for a period of 2 Years and it aims at imparting employment oriented training and encourages entrepreneurship through Skill Development to the youth & women. According to the MoU ATDC and APSSDC will o er skill training programs in the capital area for the village population who have been engaged in the land pooling process. The target
group of the trainings range from school drop out to college graduates in all parts of the state. The MoU outlines the commitment of both the parties to enter into joint initiatives in which ATDC o er speci c vocational training programs as per the skills needed for the job and demands of the industry to train particularly youth. Speaking on the occasion DG&CEO of ATDC, Dr. Darlie Koshy,” ATDC will leave no stones unturned to impart necessary skills to empower the students which would help them in getting job and starting their own
business. Special emphasis would be given to impart soft skill and communications skills to groom the trainees. This MoU will be a signi cant help to achieve and train the maximum. Immediately ATDC is planning to set up a training centre in Tenali with the support of NSL Textiles (Guntur Garments) 28 kms from Vijayawada.” “ATDC has state of art infrastructure offering shop oor, supervisory and managerial level courses within the education and training eco- system which provides a comprehensive training and also assures full support” expressed Dr. Subbarao Ghanta, MD & CEO, APSSDC. Andhra Pradesh State Skill Development Corporation (APSSDC) has been setup by the Government of Andhra Pradesh as the nodal body for skill training programmes in the state. The State Government has appointed Andhra Pradesh State Skill Development Corporation (APSSDC) Advisory Committee with famous Industrialists and Expert from di erent elds. The Advisory Committee consists 20 members which includes Mr. Madhusudhan, Managing Director, Visakha Steel Plant, Mr. Srinivasa Raju (Sri city), Mr. Pramod Bhasin (Genpact), Mr. Stephen Helming (GIZ), Mr. M. Murugappan (Murugappa Group),Dr. Darlie Koshi (DG, ATDC), N. Deendayal (CEO, Skill Foundation), Yamini Sadineni (Pharma eld), Dr. P. Thrimurthi (Representative of Universities ), E. S Chakravarthi (TCS), Dr. P. Sudhakar Reddy(Anthropologist), K. Ramkumar (ICICI Foundation), Vandana Channa, (ED-GAIL), N. Shivakumar(Chief Executive, Indian Tobacco Company).
FOHMA FOHMA LAUNCHES FIRST EVER COST INDEX (HOSEX) IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY The Federation of Hosiery Manufacturers’ Association of India (FOHMA) is the apex body for the hosiery industry in India. Over the past four decades, FOHMA has been constantly endeavouring to come out with new initiatives to assist the industry in becoming world class and organised to benchmark itself against the best in the world. In its AGM held on 21st September, 2015 in Kolkata it launched its website www.
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fohma.in and the FOHMA Hosiery Cost Index (HOSEX). In the AGM, o ce bearers were elected for the year 2015-16. Apart from the central team, FOHMA has Vice President and Secretary for 5 Zones. All leading regional associations are members of it. FOHMA represents the industry on all issues with the various Government bodies apart from working for the development of the industry. Its re-elected President Mr. K.B.Agrwala (Rupa & Co), stated that the creation and launching of the “FOHMA Hosiery Cost Index” is a step towards making the industry more aware of its costing & pro tability. He said this is a unique initiative of the associa-
tion and over time the same shall become a reference point for the total hosiery/knitwear industry. He further con rmed that FOHMA would work on more such innovative and industry needed matters to ensure growth and development of the Industry. This Index has been conceptualised and created by FOHMA Vice President (Central) - Mr. Sanjay K Jain (T T Ltd). He said that FOHMA hopes with proper support from industry players and all aligned people around us, it will be possible to establish a universally accepted Index which will be a guiding tool for both buyers & sellers. This will be the rst cost index for any textile industry segment in the country.This will
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October 2015
products may have gone up more or less depending on its speci cations, the INDEX just gives a broad idea for the industry as a whole. Its relevance is more in giving an idea of the direction of movement of costing rather than absolute movement.
enable companies to benchmark their pricing to a systematic cost plus scenario and ensure the same is accepted by the market. Speaking simply, it highlights the average movement in costing for a representative basket of hosiery goods over a period of time. For example if the cost was Rs 100 in January 2010 and the index is 132 today, it means over the period the cost for the industry has gone up by 32%. However speci c
The industry is slowly graduating from a fragmented market scenario to a more organised one, where more and more large buyers are emerging in the shape of organised retailers, institutional players and ecommerce giants. They have much more bargaining power and can squeeze companies/brands in an in ationary situation. We are well aware that India is an in ation prone country due to its structure and phased process of development. In such a scenario, it gets di cult for brands and
companies to convince buyers for a price hike. On the other side it will also provide direction to the buyers and help them in ensuring a correct pricing for them. This index is expected to create a win –win and balanced scenario for both buyers & sellers. Mr Jain further stated that the index would be updated at the start of every quarter i.e. January 1 and so on. The base year has been taken as January 1, 2010 as this period was relatively stable and was between two highly volatile periods (20089 & 2011-12). It shall be called as HOSEX and will be disseminated through out the textile industry through magazines and associations. It has covered various products being manufactured in major hosiery centres like Tirupur, Kolkata and Delhi. Details of the index are available at www.fohma.in and for further clari cations interested people may write to FOHMA.
FICCI FICCI’s interactive workshop on technical textiles and nonwovens concluded on successful note
Kolhapur, Tuesday, October 06, 2015 “In India, Technical Textile sector is one of the fastest growing segments of the Indian economy. It has registered compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of 11% during 11th Five Year Plan and as per the 12th Five Year Plan estimates by the sub-group on technical textiles, technical textile market size is expected to grow at CAGR of 20%
THE BOMBAY YARN MERCHANTS ASSOCIATION & EXCHANGE LTD. WILL PREPARE DATA-BASE (READY RECKONER) OF YARN USERS
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Mr. JAYKRISHNA PATHAK ELECTED UNOPPOSED CONTINUOUSLY AS
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and reach Rs.1,58,540 crore by 2016-17 from the market size of Rs. 75,925 Crore in 201213. said Mr. B.B. Bharti, Jt. Textile Commissioner, O ce of Textile commissioner, Government of India who graced the inaugural function on Interactive Workshop on Technical Textile and Nonwoven in Kolhapur organized by FICCI and O ce of the Textile Commissioner. He also said that technical textile industry in India is projected to have potential for generating over 3 million jobs by 2016. Therefore, the needs for skill development, training centers, accredited and certi ed courses have become vital for the industry to meet the growth projections successfully. Shri P K Awade, Ex.Textile Minister, Government of Maharashtra, informed that Marketing is very important part of the Technical textile industry and FICCI has been doing remarkably good work and remained engaged with all stake holders of the sector. He highlighted that technical textile industry should emphasises on the importance of improving the overall quality standards and project the image of wellstructured quality services. Accreditation
and quality certi cations are pre-requisites in order to achieve this goal. Delivering the welcome address, Dr. P V Kadole, Principal, DKTE Society’s Textile and Engineering institute urged the industry players to come together and use the FICCI platform to set the common agenda for the Technical Textile industry and address the policy and regulatory issues being faced by all the industry stakeholders. He briefed about the DKTE Center of Excellence for Nonwovens and said that recently ministry of Textile approved that Focus Incubation Centre for technical textiles to them. The other speakers for this workshop were Mr Shrichand Santani and Mr Satyajeet Bhonsle from Reliance Polymers, Mr Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisors, Dr Uma Sankar Sarma, IJIRA, Mr Nitin Bavkar, Dornier Machinery India, Mr Sanjay Murabatte, ATE Enterprises and Mr Aniket Bhute, DKTE COE in Nonwoven. This interactive workshop on technical textiles and nonwovens received overwhelming response from all over the India.
PRESIDENT FOR 11TH YEAR OF THE ASSOCIATION
Annual General Meeting held on 26th September 2015 in Mumbai.
The Bombay Yarn Merchants Association & Exchange Limited (BYMA) will prepare data-base (ready reckoner) of the yarn consuming units. The association has advised yarn merchants to deal through registered brokers only, stated Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak, President of BYMA during the 61st
BYMA has strengthened its arbitration mechanism for its members. Bombay High Court had given directions to yarn merchants that they should approach BYMA for arbitration and settlement of any disputes, informed Mr.Jaykrishna Pathak. More than 100 dispute settlements have been made by
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the association successfully till now. He further stated that yarn business in this nancial year has not begun on a very health note due to falling prices and lack of demand. Devaluation of Chinese currency added fuel to the re and made yarn export from India more di cult. Due to the drastic fall in crude oil prices, the prices of raw materials took a beating of 30 to 35%. This also a ected the prices of all the textile based raw materials and its bye products. Due to the Insu cient rains, the prices of raw cotton increased at a time when
spinning mills & weaving units were already loosing heavily, as most of the products being sold under- cost, leading to a partial shut down in some of their production capacities. Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak warned about unrest in Bhiwandi with some of the weavers’ faction calling not only for Bhiwandi Bandh but also making defamatory speeches against yarn suppliers. In fact, a large chunk of capital of yarn suppliers has been stuck with Bhiwandi weavers, which may turn into bad debt in some cases, which they
would not a ord. Election Results Mr. Jaykrishna D. Pathak was re-elected as the President of The Bombay Yarn Merchants Association & Exchange Ltd for the year 2015 -2016. He has been President of the Association since last 10 years. Mr. Chandraparakash M. Parekh was elected as Vice President, Mr. Hemant Muchhala as Hon. Secretary and Mr. Santosh H. Somani as Hon. Treasurer during the AGM. ‰
PROFILE OF OFFICE BEARERS 2015-16 INDIAN TEXTILE ACCESSORIES & MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATION (ITAMMA) M . M ' !* J. R ', P Mr Mayank Jayantilal Roy, Managing Director of Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai, manufacturing Mechanical Power Transmission Products, Speed Variators especially, PIV Gear Boxes for more than three decades. He is a member of Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (ITAMMA) and serving in Managing Committee of ITAMMA for more than a decade. His main motto to serve ITAMMA is to bring ITAMMA to greater heights
M . K " # K ! F V P . Currently, Managing Director of Basant Wire Industries, a leading manufacturer and exporter of Pins and Pinned Products for textile machinery, Mr. Kishore Khaitan has work experience of over 35 years in manufacturing and international marketing of engineering products. He has extensive experience in government policy advocacy, being active in CII for many years.
by following the footsteps of his father late Mr. Jayantilal Roy, who had rendered remarkable services to the Association during his tenure as Trustee & President. Mr. Roy has on his agenda at ITAMMA to make the “J.G.Roy Endowment Fund� more pro-active. In his Social responsibilities, Mr. Mayank Jayantilal Roy is the Chairman in his residential society for more than 4 years; and is socially connected with Lions Club of Juhu, Mumbai, for more than three decades. He is an active participating member in Jain Mahila Samaj Mandal, Juhu, Mumbai. ‰ ing committee in ITAMMA, holding positions such as sub-committee chairman, regional chairman and export cell chairman. Mr. Khaitan has been Chairman of CII Rajasthan in 2009-10. He is been member CII Northern Regional council, Founder Chairman; Indian Green Building Council, Jaipur chapter. He is currently also member of CII National Textile Committee; Patron Member of TAI, besides playing an active role in many social organisations/NGOs. ‰
Besides more than 14 years as member of managmachines in Madhya Pradesh as import substitutive products in the 1950s.
M . A" * V# – H . T Mr. Ashok Veda strong believer in ‘karma’ with positive spirit irrespective of adverse situations joined his family business which was carried out in the name of Veda Texspares Pvt. Ltd. oated in 1952 by his father, late Shri P.C. Veda (Founder of Veda Group). The company is now dealing with spares of spinning machines was dealing in spares for weaving & Spinning
M . K Z +. M ; % S V P Kaizar Mahuwala, Executive Director of Gurjar Gravures Pvt. Ltd. and Gurjar Images Pvt. Ltd., A Government of India Recognized Export House, which manufactures complete range of Nickel Perforated Rotary Screens, Engraving Chemicals, Auxiliaries, laser – Inkjet Engraving solutions and machine spares. Gurjar Group established in the year 1956 and was a pioneer in manufacturing of Galvano screens since
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He served as National Vice Chairman of Textile Association (India), and is now actively associated with TMMA for more than a decade. He attended various conferences in India, Singapore, Bangkok, Bangladesh, and Switzerland and also organized National Textile Submit 2013, a National conference of TAI at Indore. ‰ year 1972 and also maintained a legacy of developing import substitutes to serve the Indian textile industry. Mr. Mahuwala has a vast and rich experience in manufacturing and international business and has extensively traveled to more than 20 countries. He is actively associated with ITAMMA since the year 2002 and has served as the Convener of the Ahmedabad export cell since 2004 and has been the managing committee member since 2006. ‰
www.textilevaluechain.com
October 2015
TECHNICAL ARTICLE Grading of Mesta bre found in Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh M". J A$ ; % U D T S A D SNDT W ’ U , M , I
D . E% D# D F T C H S , N N , M , I
Abstract Mesta is a bast bre crop and a close substitute to jute in terms of its bre characteristics and bre appearance. It is obtained from the bark of Hibiscus Sabdari a which belongs to family Malvaceae. Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) has introduced a grading standard on the basis of scoring system for Mesta bres like jute which is still followed religiously. Six grades have been prescribed for mesta. The bre is graded on the basis of six physical parameters i.e., strength, root content, defects, neness, colour and density. Scores for the mesta can be taken as guidance for determining the quality or grade of the bre which will further justify the commercial value of the same. The Mesta bre found in Andhra pradesh (AMV 2) is found to have better grade than the bre found in Maharashtra (Race Ruber).
Introduction
A) Strength
Mesta is a common word used for two species namely Hibiscus cannabinus and Hibiscus Sabdari a which produces good bre for commerce. It is considered as a substitute for jute and it is also referred to as a multipurpose crop since each and every part of mesta has some utility. The two major bre yielding species of Hibiscus cannabinus and Hibiscus Sabdari a have the following characteristics:
For comparing strength of a bre a bundle of 10-15 bres from the middle region of the bre reed is gripped between the thumb and fore nger of both the hands and broken longitudinally without jerk. It gives an idea of bre strength. Good lustre of bre is also an indicator of good bre strength. Strength of mesta bre is divided into ve groups i.e., Very good, Good, Fairly good, Average and weak mixed. The scoring scheme for each group is shown in Table 1.
,Ĺ?Ä?Ĺ?Ć?Ä?ĆľĆ? ^Ä‚Ä?ÄšÄ‚ĆŒĹ?ÄŤÄ‚ Íž ZĹ˝Ć?ĞůůĞͿ >ĞĂǀĞĆ? Ä‚ĆŒÄž ŚĂĹ?ĆŒÇ‡ ĂŜĚ ÄšÄ‚ĆŒĹŹ Ä?Ĺ˝ĹŻĹ˝ĆľĆŒ Ç Ĺ?ƚŚ Ç Ä‚Ç†Ç‡ Ä?ŽĂĆ&#x;ĹśĹ? ,Ĺ?Ĺ?ŚůLJ ĆšĹ˝ĹŻÄžĆŒÄ‚ĹśĆš ƚŽ ÄšĆŒĹ˝ĆľĹ?Śƚ Ä?ŽŜĚĹ?Ć&#x;ŽŜĆ? >ŽŜĹ? ÄšĆľĆŒÄ‚Ć&#x;ŽŜ ƚLJƉĞ ƉůĂŜƚ Íž ĎϴϏͲώĎĎŹÍż ĚĂLJĆ? &ĹŻĹ˝Ç ÄžĆŒĆ? Ä‚ĆŒÄž Ć?žĂůů Ć?ĆľĹŻĆ‰ĹšĆľĆŒ Ç‡ÄžĹŻĹŻĹ˝Ç ÍŹĆ‰Ĺ?ŜŏĹ?Ć?Ĺš ĂůLJdž ĂŜĚ ĞƉĹ?Ä?ĂůLJÄ?ÄžĆ? Ä‚ĆŒÄž ŇĞĆ?ŚLJ ,Ĺ?Ĺ?ŚůLJ Ć?ĞůĨͲƉŽůůĹ?ŜĂƚĞĚ 'ĆŒĹ˝Ç ĆšĹš ĆŒÄ‚ĆšÄž Ĺ?Ć? Ć?ĹŻĹ˝Ç Ćš ĹľÄ‚ĆšĆľĆŒĹ?ƚLJ Ä?ĂƉĆ?ƾůĞĆ? ĆŒÄžĆ?ƾůƚ Ĺ?Ĺś Ć?ĞĞĚ ĹŻĹ˝Ć?Ć? YƾĂůĹ?ƚLJ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ÄŽÄ?ĆŒÄž Ĺ?Ć? Ä?Ĺ˝Ä‚ĆŒĆ?Äž 'Ĺ?ǀĞĆ? ĹšĹ?Ĺ?Ĺš LJĹ?ĞůĚ ŽĨ ÄŽÄ?ĆŒÄž
,Ĺ?Ä?Ĺ?Ć?Ä?ĆľĆ? Ä?Ä&#x201A;ŜŜÄ&#x201A;Ä?Ĺ?ŜƾĆ? Íž<Ä&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x201A;ĨͿ >Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć? Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ć?žŽŽĆ&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; ĹŻĹ?Ĺ?Ĺ&#x161;Ć&#x161; Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ĺś Ĺ?Ĺś Ä?ŽůŽƾĆ&#x152;
dÄ&#x201A;Ä?ĹŻÄ&#x17E; ĎÍ&#x2014; ^Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ä&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ä?Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x;ŽŜ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; ^Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; ĹľÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x152;ĹŹĆ?
YĆľÄ&#x201A;ĹŻĹ?Ć&#x161;Ç&#x2021; sÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x2021; 'ŽŽÄ&#x161;
>Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ć? Ć&#x161;ŽůÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĹśĆ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ä&#x161;Ć&#x152;ŽƾĹ?Ĺ&#x161;Ć&#x161; Ä?ŽŜÄ&#x161;Ĺ?Ć&#x;ŽŜĆ? ^Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161; Ä&#x161;ĆľĆ&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x;ŽŜ Ć&#x161;Ç&#x2021;Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x2030;ĹŻÄ&#x201A;ĹśĆ&#x161; ÍžĎώϏͲĎϹϏͿ Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x2021;Ć? &ĹŻĹ˝Ç Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ć? Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ä?Ĺ?Ĺ? Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; ĹŻÄ&#x17E;žŽŜ Ç&#x2021;Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹŻĹ˝Ç Ä&#x201A;ĹŻÇ&#x2021;Ç&#x2020; Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x2030;Ĺ?Ä?Ä&#x201A;ĹŻÇ&#x2021;Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ć? Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; ŜŽĆ&#x161; Ĺ&#x2021;Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ĺ&#x161;Ç&#x2021; KĹ&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ĺś Ä?Ć&#x152;Ĺ˝Ć?Ć? Ć&#x2030;ŽůůĹ?ĹśÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; /ĹśĹ?Ć&#x;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻ Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ĺ˝Ç Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ĺ?Ć? Ć&#x2039;ĆľĹ?Ä?ĹŹ Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x2030;Ć?ƾůÄ&#x17E;Ć? Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ä?ŽžĆ&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ć&#x161; WĆ&#x152;Ĺ˝Ä&#x161;ĆľÄ?Ä&#x17E;Ć? Ä?Ä&#x17E;ĆŠÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152; Ć&#x2039;ĆľÄ&#x201A;ĹŻĹ?Ć&#x161;Ç&#x2021; ŽĨ ÄŽÄ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; 'Ĺ?Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć? ĹŻĹ˝Ç Ç&#x2021;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;ĹŻÄ&#x161; ŽĨ ÄŽÄ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;
'ŽŽÄ&#x161; &Ä&#x201A;Ĺ?Ć&#x152;ĹŻÇ&#x2021; 'ŽŽÄ&#x161; Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;
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What is the Grading of Mesta Fibre and how it is done? The quality of any bre is usually judged by its suitability for the production of di erent types of yarn and its behavior in the manufacturing process. Same principle applies for mesta bre too. The BIS grading of mesta envisages a score card system of grading that aims at eliminating personal bias as far as possible. Six physical parameters i.e., strength, root content, defects, neness, colour and density of mesta bres are assessed for sorting out the bre into six di erent grades. Relative weightage is given to each physical parameter by standard scoring system and the grade of bre is determined by total score of six parameters. (www.bis.org.in)
tÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹ ĹľĹ?Ç&#x2020;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161;
^Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; DÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x152;ĹŹĆ? ĎŽĎą ĎŽĎ ĎĎł ĎĎŻ ĎŹĎą
^ŽƾĆ&#x152;Ä?Ä&#x17E;Í&#x2014; Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161;ĆľĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Í&#x2022; ^Í&#x2DC;< Î&#x2DC; ^Ä&#x201A;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Í&#x2022; ^Í&#x2DC; Í&#x2DC; ͞ώϏϏϴͿ
B) Fineness The neness is a measure of diameter (width) or weight per unit length of bre lament. Fineness is a genetic property which also depends on the age of the plant during harvesting ( Natural Fibres, 2009). Fineness can be estimated simply by having a close look at the bre. Finer bre shows better spinning quality. Fineness is divided into three groups i.e., Very ne, ne and coarse. The scoring scheme for each group is shown in Table 2 dÄ&#x201A;Ä?ĹŻÄ&#x17E; ĎŽÍ&#x2014; ^Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?ĹśĹ? ^Ä?Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;ĹľÄ&#x17E; ĨŽĆ&#x152; ÄŽĹśÄ&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x17E;Ć?Ć?
Grading Process
YĆľÄ&#x201A;ĹŻĹ?Ć&#x161;Ç&#x2021; sÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x2021; &Ĺ?ĹśÄ&#x17E; &Ĺ?ĹśÄ&#x17E; Ĺ˝Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ć?Ä&#x17E;
There are two systems for grading of mesta bre: 1. Hand and Eye method An expert grader can assess the physical characteristics viz., neness, density and strength of the bre testing by hand only while visual assessment will judge colour, root content and defects by a close look at the bre. Hand and eye method is generally used in the market for on the spot assessment of the quality and grading of bres. This method is subjective and assessment may vary from person to person. The six physical characters of bre i.e., a) Strength, b) Fineness, c) Colour, d) Root content, e) Defects and f) Density are assessed by hand and eye method for grading following standard score card system of grading.
October 2015
^Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ä&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ä?Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x;ŽŜ EÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; Ć?Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ć?Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ć&#x2030; Ä&#x201A;ĆľÄ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä?ĹŻÄ&#x17E; Ć?ŽƾŜÄ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x;ĹľÄ&#x17E; ŽĨ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E; EÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; ĹŻÄ&#x17E;Ć?Ć? Ć?Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;ĆľÄ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä?ĹŻÄ&#x17E; Ć?ŽƾŜÄ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x;ĹľÄ&#x17E; ŽĨ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E; EÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; Ć?Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ć?ŽƾŜÄ&#x161; Ç Ĺ?ĹŻĹŻ ŜŽĆ&#x161; Ä?Ä&#x17E; Ä?ĹŻÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x;ĹľÄ&#x17E; ŽĨ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E; EÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x2021; ĹŻĹ?ĆŠĹŻÄ&#x17E; Ć?Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; ŜŽ Ć?ŽƾŜÄ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x;ĹľÄ&#x17E; ŽĨ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E; Ä&#x201A;Ć?Ĺ?ĹŻÇ&#x2021; Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; ŜŽ Ć?ŽƾŜÄ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x;ĹľÄ&#x17E; ŽĨ Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;
www.textilevaluechain.com
&Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;ĹŻ ŽĨ Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; ÄŽÄ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ä?Ç&#x2021; Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; &Ĺ?ĹśÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Í&#x2022; Ç Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; ÄŽÄ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ć? Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ç Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹŻ Ć?Ä&#x17E;Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; &Ĺ?ĹśÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Í&#x2022; Ç Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; ÄŽÄ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ç Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹŻ Ć?Ä&#x17E;Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; EĹ˝Ć&#x161; ÄŽĹśÄ&#x17E; Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; ÄŽÄ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ć? Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ć? Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; ŜŽĆ&#x161; Ç Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹŻ Ć?Ä&#x17E;Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161;
DÄ&#x17E;Ć?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A; Íž^Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Íż Ďą ĎŻ Ď
^ŽƾĆ&#x152;Ä?Ä&#x17E;Í&#x2014; Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161;ĆľĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Í&#x2022; ^Í&#x2DC;< Î&#x2DC; ^Ä&#x201A;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Í&#x2022; ^Í&#x2DC; Í&#x2DC; ͞ώϏϏϴͿ
C) Root Content The hard barky region at the lower end of the reed is called root. The roots are cut at the mill before any processing of the bre and in commerce they are known as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cuttingsâ&#x20AC;?. Measuring the extent of the bark along the length of the reed by a scale and doubling the length percentage value of the root content may make an estimate of the root content in terms of weight percentage.
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F) Density
dĂďůĞ ϯ͗ ^ĐŽƌŝŶŐ ^ĐŚĞŵĞ ĨŽƌ ƌŽŽƚ ĐŽŶƚĞŶƚ
ůĂƐƐ DĞƐƚĂ Dϭ DϮ Dϯ Dϰ Dϱ Dϲ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ Ϯϳ ϮϮ ϭϳ ϭϰ ϭϬ Ϭ
Density is de ned as weight per unit volume of bre considering all air space in the bre. It is judged by the feel of heaviness or lightness of a number of reeds from the middle region of bulk, held within a grip between two hands and raised up and down. The sample that feels compact and heavy with thinner reeds is graded as ‘very heavy’ and loose and less heavy one is ‘medium body’. Heavy bodied sample generally spin into good quality yarn.
DĂdžŝŵƵŵ ZŽŽƚ ŽŶƚĞŶƚ DĞƐƚĂ ;>ĞŶŐƚŚ йͿ DĞƐƚĂ ;tĞŝŐŚƚйͿ ϲ ϭϮ ϭϬ ϮϬ ϭϱ ϯϬ ϮϬ ϰϬ Ϯϱ ϱϬ хϮϱ хϱϬ
dĂďůĞ ϳ͗ ^ĐŽƌŝŶŐ ĨŽƌ ĞŶƐŝƚLJ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
ůĂƐƐ sĞƌLJ ŚĞĂǀLJ ,ĞĂǀLJ
D) Colour Colour is the property of the bre that distinguishes its appearance as redness, yellowness, greyness etc. It is largely dependent on the retting conditions, water and washing. The terminology of di erent colours as de ned in BIS specifcations with score marks for mesta are given in Table 4. dĂďůĞ ϰ͗ ŽůŽƵƌ ĞƐĐƌŝƉƟŽŶ ĂŶĚ ƐĐŽƌĞ ŵĂƌŬƐ
YƵĂůŝƚLJ 'ŽŽĚ &Ăŝƌ ǀĞƌĂŐĞ ǀĞƌĂŐĞ
ŽůŽƵƌ ĞƐĐƌŝƉƟŽŶ ƌĞĂŵLJ ƚŽ ǁŚŝƟƐŚ >ŝŐŚƚ ŐƌĞLJ 'ƌĞLJŝƐŚ ƚŽ ĚĂƌŬ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ ϭϱ ϭϭ Ϭϳ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
E) Defects Factors causing serious or partial damage to the quality of the bre are commonly known as defects. In all 12 defects have been identi ed in the body of the bre, which are broadly classi ed into two groups, namely major defects and minor defects. All the major and minor defects are listed below: dĂďůĞ ϱ͗ ĞĨĞĐƚƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ DĞƐƚĂ ĮďƌĞ
DĂũŽƌ ĞĨĞĐƚƐ
ŝͿ >ŽŽƐĞ ůĞĂĨ
ŝŝͿ ĂnjĞĚ ĮďƌĞ
ŝŝͿ >ŽŽƐĞ ƐƟĐŬƐ
ŝŝŝͿ ĞŶƚƌĞ ƌŽŽƚ
ŝŝŝͿ ^ƉĞĐŬƐ
dĂďůĞ ϲ͗ ĞĨĞĐƚƐ ĂŶĚ ^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ
Dϱ
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^ƚƌĞŶŐƚŚ ;ŐŵͬƚĞdžͿ Ϯϵ ĂŶĚ ĂďŽǀĞ Ϯϱ͘ϬͲϮϴ͘ϵ Ϯϭ͘ϬͲϮϰ͘ϵ ϭϳ͘ϬͲϮϬ͘ϵ фϭϳ͘Ϭ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ Ϯϱ Ϯϭ ϭϳ ϭϯ Ϭϱ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
B) Air<ow Fineness Tester
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
The test length of 5 cm is adopted as standard. Corresponding to this 5 cm test length the length of the bre bundle is 12.5 cm and weight 200 to 400 mg is taken. The bundle strength of the bre sample is its tenacity which is expressed in gm/tex.
Dϯ Dϰ
The ability of the bre to resist strain to the limit of rupture is called the strength of the bre. The strength is measured as the breaking load of the bre sample under test divided by the linear density of the unstrained bre and is called its tenacity. This is expressed in gm/tex.
ǀŝͿ ŶƚĂŶŐůĞĚ ƐƟĐŬƐ
DϮ
A) Fibre Bundle Strength Tester
ůĂƐƐ sĞƌLJ 'ŽŽĚ 'ŽŽĚ &ĂŝƌůLJ 'ŽŽĚ ǀĞƌĂŐĞ tĞĂŬ ŵŝdžĞĚ
ǀͿ ƌŽƉƉLJ ĮďƌĞ ĂŶĚ ǁĞĂŬ ĐƌŽƉƉLJ ĞŶĚƐ
ǀŝŝͿ DŽƐƐLJ ĮďƌĞ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
In this method all the six physical characters of bre essential for determining grade are measured by bre testing instruments. The use of instruments is essential for an objective and accurate evaluation of grades. The instruments and their functionalities are mentioned below:
ŝǀͿ 'ƵŵŵLJ ĮďƌĞ
ǀͿ <ŶŽƚƐ
ϭ
2. Instrumental Method
ŝǀͿ ZƵŶŶĞƌ
YƵĂůŝƚLJ Dϭ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ ϯ Ϯ
dĂďůĞ ϴ͗ ^ĐŽƌŝŶŐ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ƐƚƌĞŶŐƚŚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĮďƌĞ
ŝͿ KǀĞƌͲƌĞƩĞĚ ĮďƌĞ
DŝŶŽƌ ĞĨĞĐƚƐ
DĞĚŝƵŵ ďŽĚŝĞĚ
ĞŶƐŝƚLJ ŽŵƉĂĐƚ ĂŶĚ ǁĞŝŐŚƚLJ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚŝŶŶĞƌ ƌĞĞĚƐ ŽŵƉĂĐƚ ĂŶĚ ǁĞŝŐŚƚLJ ǁŝƚŚ ďƌŽĂĚĞƌ ƚŚŝĐŬĞƌ ƌĞĞĚƐ >ŽŽƐĞ ĂŶĚ ůĞƐƐ ǁĞŝŐŚƚLJ
ĞƐĐƌŝƉƟŽŶ &ƌĞĞ ĨƌŽŵ ŵĂũŽƌ ĂŶĚ ŵŝŶŽƌ ĚĞĨĞĐƚƐ ĞdžĐĞƉƚ ďƌŽǁŶ ůĞĂǀĞƐ ĂŶĚ ĂƉƉƌĞĐŝĂďůLJ ĨƌĞĞ ĨƌŽŵ ƐƉĞĐƐ &ƌĞĞ ĨƌŽŵ ŵĂũŽƌ ĚĞĨĞĐƚƐ ĂŶĚ ůŽŽƐĞ ƐƟĐŬƐ͖ ƐƵďƐƚĂŶƟĂůůLJ ĨƌĞĞ ĨƌŽŵ ŬŶŽƚƐ ĂŶĚ ŐƵŵŵLJ ĂŶĚ ĐƌŽƉƉLJ ĮďƌĞƐ &ƌĞĞ ĨƌŽŵ ŵĂũŽƌ ĚĞĨĞĐƚƐ ĞdžĐĞƉƚ ŬŶŽƚƐ &ƌĞĞ ĨƌŽŵ ĐĞŶƚƌĞ ƌŽŽƚƐ͕ ĚĂnjĞĚ ĂŶĚ ŽǀĞƌ ƌĞƩĞĚ ĮďƌĞƐ͕ ƌƵŶŶĞƌƐ ĂŶĚ ĞŶƚĂŶŐůĞĚ ƐƟĐŬƐ ZĞĂƐŽŶĂďůLJ ĨƌĞĞ ĨƌŽŵ ƌƵŶŶĞƌƐ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ Ϯϱ Ϯϭ ϭϳ ϭϯ ϱ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
It is a measure of diameter or thickness of the bre. Fineness is expressed by linear density or mass per unit length in tex(gm/km). The ner the bre, the better is its quality. Air ow neness tester is developed by NIRJAFT measures neness of bre on the principle of measuring speci c surface of a constant mass of bre. The instrument comprises of a device by which air is sucked through a sample of bre plug at a constant pressure and the rate of ow is measured. The rate of ow is dependent on the neness of bres. The working of the instrument is based on the measurement of rate of ow of air through a parallel bre plug of speci ed mass (3gm) and length (5cm) placed in a cylindrical cell of xed dimensions at a particular pressure di erence between the ends of the plug. Under these conditions, the bre neness (tex) is proportional to the rate of ow of air. The air ow is maintained by a water aspirator system that can be repeatedly used without replacement. Two manometers placed, in an inclined position for greater sensitivity, measure the pressure di erence and the air ow. The rate of air ow is calibrated in terms of ‘tex’.
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October 2015
F) Root Content dĂďůĞ ϵ͗ ^ĐŽƌŝŶŐ ^ĐŚĞŵĞ ĨŽƌ ĮŶĞŶĞƐƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĮďƌĞ
ůĂƐƐ &ŝŶĞƌ ǁŝƚŚ ĮďƌĞ ƌĞĞĚƐ ǁĞůů ƐĞŐƌĞŐĂƚĞĚ &ŝŶĞ͕ ǁŝƚŚ ĮďƌĞ ǁĞůů ƐĞŐƌĞŐĂƚĞĚ ŽĂƌƐĞ
&ŝŶĞŶĞƐƐ ŽĨ DĞƐƚĂ ;ƚĞdžͿ ϯ͘ϱ ĂŶĚ ďĞůŽǁ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ ϱ
ϯ͘ϱ ƚŽ ϰ͘Ϯ ϰ͘ϯ ĂŶĚ ĂďŽǀĞ
ϯ ϭ
The instrumental method of measuring the root content is to simply cut the hard barky bottom region of the bre reeds, obtain its weight and express it as percentage of the total weight of the reeds.
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
dĂďůĞ ϭϯ͗ ^ĐŽƌĞ ĨŽƌ ƌŽŽƚ ĐŽŶƚĞŶƚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĮďƌĞ
C) Colour and Lustre Meter The colour and lustre meter is developed by NIRJAFT and is kind of re ectance photometer, which measures the brightness and lustre of the bre sample in terms of di used and specular re ectance using photoelectric cell. A beam of white light is made incident on the bre sample over a speci ed area and the re ected beam of light from the at surface of the sample is received by a photocell. The output current of the photocell is proportional to the amount of light received. Brightness or colour is measured by the ratio of di used re ectance of a bre sample and the re ectance of a standard white surface and is expressed in percent. Similarly, lustre is measured by the ratio of specular re ectance and di used re ectance. dĂďůĞ ϭϬ͗ ^ĐŽƌĞ ĨŽƌ ĐŽůŽƵƌ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĮďƌĞ
ůĂƐƐ 'ŽŽĚ &Ăŝƌ ǀĞƌĂŐĞ ǀĞƌĂŐĞ
ŽůŽƵƌ WĞƌĐĞŶƚĂŐĞ хϱϲ ϱϱͲϯϲ ϯϱͲϯϭ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ ϭϱ ϭϭ ϳ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
D) Bulk Density Meter It determines the volume of a xed mass of bre including air space to indicate whether the bre is very heavy, heavy or medium bodied, an aspect commonly used for quality assessment of mesta bre. Fibre bundle of xed weight (40 gm) and length (10 cm) is held between the plates and compressed by a xed load (10 kg) hanged from the bottom of the device. The bulk density is then calculated by dividing the mass by the volume under compression. The compression of the bre sample as calibrated on a scale gives the measure of bulk density of the bre expressed in gm/cc directly. dĂďůĞ ϭϭ͗ ^ĐŽƌĞ ĨŽƌ ďƵůŬ ĚĞŶƐŝƚLJ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĮďƌĞ
ůĂƐƐ sĞƌLJ ŚĞĂǀLJ͕ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚŝŶŶĞƌ ƌĞĞĚƐ ,ĞĂǀLJ͕ ǁŝƚŚ ďƌŽĂĚĞƌ ƚŚŝĐŬĞƌ ƌĞĞĚƐ DĞĚŝƵŵ ďŽĚŝĞĚ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ ϯ Ϯ ϭ
DĞƐƚĂ ;ŐŵͬĐĐͿ Ϭ͘ϰϳ Ϭ͘ϰϲ Ϭ͘ϰϱ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
E) Defects Defective portions are cut from a bundle of mesta bre reeds and weighed. The weight expressed as percentage of total weight of the reed bundle give a measure of defects.
dĂďůĞ ϭϮ͗ ^ĐŽƌĞ ĨŽƌ ĚĞĨĞĐƚƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĮďƌĞ
ŵŽƵŶƚ ŽĨ ĚĞĨĞĐƚƐ ďLJ ǁĞŝŐŚƚ ;йͿ ĞĨĞĐƚƐ ĨƌĞĞ Ϭ͘ϱ ϭ͘Ϭ ϭ͘ϱ Ϯ͘Ϭ
October 2015
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ Ϯϱ Ϯϭ ϭϳ ϭϯ ϱ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
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ůĂƐƐ DĞƐƚĂ
^ĐŽƌĞ DĂƌŬƐ
Dϭ DϮ Dϯ Dϰ Dϱ Dϲ
Ϯϳ ϮϮ ϭϳ ϭϰ ϭϬ Ϭ
DĂdžŝŵƵŵ ZŽŽƚ ŽŶƚĞŶƚ ǁĞŝŐŚƚ ;йͿ ϭϮ ϮϬ ϯϬ ϰϬ ϱϬ хϱϬ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
Grading of the Mesta bre found in Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh The variety of Mesta which is grown in various districts of Maharashtra is Hibiscus Sabdari a sub variety Race Ruber. This is an edible variety which is mainly grown for the consumption of its calyces. The calyces are widely used to produce jams, jellies, herbal tea etc. The bre is a by-product which is sometimes discarded or sometimes used to make ropes and cordages. (Dedhia.E & Agarwal. J., 2014) The second variety of Mesta which is from Andhra Pradesh is popularly known as AMV 2. It is sourced from NIRJAFT, Kolkata.
dĂďůĞ ϭϰ͗ ^ĐŽƌŝŶŐ ^ĐŚĞŵĞ ĨŽƌ DĞƐƚĂ ĮďƌĞ ĨŽƵŶĚ ŝŶ ŶĚŚƌĂ WƌĂĚĞƐŚ ĂŶĚ DĂŚĂƌĂƐŚƚƌĂ
^ƚĂƚĞ
'ƌĂĚĞ
ŶĚŚƌĂ DϮ WƌĂĚĞƐŚ ;'ŽŽĚͿ DĂŚĂƌĂƐŚƚƌĂ Dϯ
^ƚƌĞŶŐ ĞĨĞĐƚƐ ZŽŽƚ ŽůŽƵƌ &ŝŶĞŶĞƐƐ ĞŶƐŝƚLJ ƚŚ ŽŶƚĞŶƚ ϭϳ ϱ Ϯϳ ϭϭ ϱ Ϯ
dŽƚĂů ^ĐŽƌĞ ϲϳ
ϭϳ
ϱϴ
ϱ
ϮϮ
ϳ
ϱ
Ϯ
;&ĂŝƌůLJ ŐŽŽĚͿ
^ŽƵƌĐĞ͗ ŚĂĚƵƌŝ͕ ^͘< Θ ^ĂŚĂ͕ ^͘ ͘ ;ϮϬϬϴͿ
Results and Discussion The quality of Mesta can be easily judged by the scoring scheme and the grade in which it falls will decide the end use of the yarn. Six physical parameters i.e., strength, defects, root content, colour, neness and density are assessed for sorting out the bres into six di erent grades. M1 is considered as very good quality whereas M6 consist of all the mesta bres which do not conform to any grade like M2, M3, M4 and M5 but they are of commercial importance. Instrumental method is mostly used to determine the grade of the bre to avoid any personal bias. The Mesta bre grown in Andhra Pradesh is of better quality than the bre grown in Maharashtra. This could be due to many reasons like improper retting of the stems, unsuitable ways of extraction of the bre or stage of harvesting. Though it is called a multipurpose crop its area in India is going down. Its cultivation is restricted to a fewer places in India. If proper grading system is implied in the industry it will enhance the value of the crop.
Conclusion Mesta is obtained as a bark from two species namely Hibiscus Cannabinus and Hibiscus Sabdari a. It occupies more than 80 percent of the cultivated area (www.indiastat.com). Mesta is referred as a multipurpose crop since every part has some use (D.P. Singh). Though it is a multipurpose crop its area in India is going down. To meet the growing demand of natural bres the only way is to increase the productivity and make the crop of commercial impor-
25
tance. Grading the bre is the rst and very important step in the commercialization of a bre and its products. Although the grading system for other bre like cotton and jute are well known and used widely, the grading of mesta bre is less known and is rarely used. It is concluded that the end usage of the bre is dependent on its physical parameters and the parameters are in turn dependent on the quality of the bre.
References
The grade of the mesta bre found in Andhra Pradesh is better than the grades of the bre found in Maharashtra. But this doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean that the grade of the bre remains same for every season and every crop. The grades can be improved by improving the way of cultivating the crop, retting the stem, harvesting the crop. By this low grade of mesta can be improved by -2 grades thereby ensuring high return to the farmer and the industry is also bene tted by the availability of the bre of superior quality.
4. Bhaduri, S.C., Saha, S.K.(2008), Handbook on Grading of mesta bre, National Institute of Research on Jute & Allied Fibre Technology (NIRJAFT)
1. Singh, D.P. Mesta- Hibiscus cannabinus & hibiscus sabdari a. N.d. Retrieved on Jan01, 2013 from http://assamagribusiness.nic.in/mesta.pdf 2. Natural Fibres, Handbook with cultivation and uses(2009), NIIR Board of Consultants and Engineers, NIIR Project Consultancy Services, pp 151155 3. www.bis.org.in
5. Agarwal, J., Dedhia, E. (2014, June). Current Scenario of Hibiscus Sabdari a (Mesta) in India (Maharashtra). The International Journal of Humanities and Social Studies, 1(3), 129-135 6. www.indiastat.com Â&#x2030;
GLOBAL FOCUS Financial Currency War (Yuan Vs US Dollar) M . A = ! S ! CEO P M/ . B A G 09@ . @ . The Chinese are in the process of displacing the monopoly of the US dollar. They are dropping their US Treasury bonds, stockpiling gold reserves, and opening regional distribution banks for their own national currency. This will give them easier access to capital markets and insulate them from nancial manipulation by Washington and Wall Street. Fearing the eclipsing of the US dollar and the Bretton Woods system by a rival nancial architecture the US response has been an attempt to damage the Chinese markets and increase the value of Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s currency. China has responded through regulations in the market and then quantitative easing of its currency to maintain the low prices of Chinese manufactured goods and exports. Beijingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quantitative easing is a reaction or response to the nancial manipulation of Washington and Wall Street. Additionally, Washington never thought that the Chinese would respond by dumping US Treasury bonds. Instead of the hysteria about the Chinese economy, the impending collapse of the US dollar should be getting all of the attention of investors, one US economist (Peter Schi ) has warned. Schi â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s voice is one of many analysts saying that the talk about the Chinese economy faltering is exaggerated and bad spirited.
Financial War against China, Russia: Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s War against the Community of Destiny As the nancial architecture of the world is being altered by China and Russia, the US dollar is gradually being neutralized as one of Washingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weapon of choice. Even the monopoly of Washingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bretton Woods system formed by the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and World Bank is being directly challenged. Although they do not constitute alternatives to neoliberal econom-
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ics, the BRICS News Development Bank (NDB) and Beijingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB) are challenging the Bretton Woods system through a rival nancial structure. The US Empire has been cognizant of the moves to establish a rival nancial order. Policymakers in the Washington Beltway, the Pentagon, and Wall Street all watched the dual summits of the BRICS and Shanghai Cooperation Organization in the Russian city of Ufa with concern. Up to that point, they had been waging an information/propaganda, energy, nancial market, currency war, and general economic war against the Russian Federation. Banks and governments in the European Union had been considering and examining the use of Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national currency, renminbi/yuan, as a reserve currency. This was because of the attractiveness of the stability of the renminbi as a currency. This had Washington and Wall Street worried and was one of the factors that resulted in the expansion of the currency and nancial war on Russia to China. Using speculation as a psychological weapon and market manipulation, the US launched a nancial strike against the Chinese. This was done through an attempt to sink or crash the Chinese stock market and hurt investor con dence in the Chinese economy and its stocks. Beijing, however, reacted quickly by imposing controls on investment withdrawals. This prevented the snowballing of stock sello s and defused the US nancial bomb. As the value of the renminbi began to rise Beijing began quantitative easing to devalue its national currency as a means of continuing export trade. The US Congress and White House began to loudly object. They accused the Chinese of nancial manipulation and demanded that Beijing do nothing to readjust the value of the
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October 2015
renminbi. What the folks in the Washington Beltway wanted was for the Chinese to let the value of the renminbi rise as a means of disrupting China’s economy and market.
Beijing Liquidates its US Bonds Push China and it will push back. The buck (or, more properly, renminbi/yuan) did not stop with the introduction of regulations by Beijing. China took steps that shocked Wall Street and put Washington on notice. As US nancial institutions began trying to hurt investor con dence in China through psychological tactics claiming that the Chinese economy was slowing down and that the Chinese market was in freefall, Beijing announced that it had bought 600 tons of gold in the span of a month and the People’s Bank of China had got rid of over 17 billion US dollars from its foreign exchange reserves. China’s foreign exchange reserves — excluding the foreign reserves of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region and the Macau Special Administrative Region — were 3.71 trillion (37,111,430 million) US dollars in May 2015. They had dropped to 3.69 trillion (36,938,380 million) US dollars by June 2015. The nancial market webpage Zero Hedge, which had been following this development, explained what it had discovered was taking place: «We then put China’s change in FX reserves alongside the total Treasury holdings of China and its ‘anonymous’ o shore Treasury dealer Euroclear (aka ‘Belgium’) as released by TIC, and found that the dramatic relationship which we rst discovered back in May, has persisted — namely virtually the entire delta in Chinese FX reserves come via China’s US Treasury holdings». The main point here was that China’s US Treasury bonds are being aggressively sold, to the tune of $107 billion in Treasury sales so far in 2015. By following China’s nancial transactions in Belgium, Zero Hedge had actually calculated that Beijing had dropped 143 billion US dollars in three months. A few months later, in August,
the Chinese dropped 100 billion US dollars worth of US Treasury bonds in the span of two weeks. A day later, on August 27, Bloomberg corroborated what Zero Hedge had identi ed. A Bloomberg report explained the following: The People’s Bank of China has been o oading dollars and buying yuan to support the exchange rate, a policy that’s contributed to a $315 billion drop in its foreign-exchange reserves over the last 12 months. The $3.65 trillion stockpile will fall by some $40 billion a month in the remainder of 2015 because of the intervention, according to the median estimate in a Bloomberg survey. While the Bloomberg report emphasized that the Chinese were using US dollars to buy their own national currency, it casually mentioned, Strategically, it probably has been China’s intention to nd the right time to lighten up its excessive accumulation of U.S. Treasuries, citing an economist at Reorient Financial Markets Limited in Hong Kong.
The Eclipsing of the US Dollar by the Chinese Renminbi Wall Street should be worried about the economic problems at home in the US instead of trying to undermine China. The talk about the slowing down of the Chinese economy in part is distraction. It diverts attention from the decline of the US and is meant to enforce the e orts of Washington and Wall Street to rein in Beijing. The Chinese, however, continue to move forward undeterred. Beijing selected Qatar as its rst renminbi clearing house in the Middle East and North Africa for regional exchange markets there in April 2015. The name of this clearing house is the Qatar Renminbi Centre. It will circumvent US nancial structures and give greater access to oil and natural gas from the Middle East and North Africa to the People’s Republic of China. Despite the wishes of Wall Street and Washington, the Silk World Order is moving forward.
COMPLETE SYSTEM INNOVATIONS For the rst time, Rieter is showing a mobile solution that not only provides an overview of the data of the spinning mill, but also o ers a con gurable alarm function. COMPLETE SYSTEM INNOVATIONS SPIDERweb Mill Control System -new functions for the spinning mill of the future The Rieter SPIDERweb Mill Control System is the only system on the market which uniformly covers the entire spinning mill from bre to yarn and for all four spinning technologies -not only for new machines but also for older generations. SPIDERweb serves economic decisions in the spinning mill. The system is con gurable for individual requirements. It stores and monitors the quality and production of all Rieter spinning systems. Subsequent enhancements can be upgraded. This safeguards the investment in a modern spinning mill.
SPIDERweb allows visitors to the exhibition stand at the ITMA an insight into the spinning mill of the future. Value-adding After Sales Services Since the beginning of this year, Rieter has strengthened its after sales service o ering by a third dedicated Business Group. The objective is to support customers over the entire product life cycle and to improve their long-term competitiveness. Rieter is presenting new After Sales service products at the ITMA.
Audits for comprehensive system analysis and improvement The expert teams from Rieter After Sales o er spinning mill audits which identify feasible short-term opportunities for improvements and create measurable results for customers.
Comprehensive maintenance support
• permanently monitored sliver and yarn quality
Globally located repair and maintenance centres enable customers to optimally maintain their machines. Thanks to the continuous training of personnel, Rieter o ers the best possible support for the customers.
• incorporated expertise
Textile technology from bre to yarn
• optimal allocation of operating personnel
Rieter demonstrates know-how with thousands of various fabric samples which the teams from After Sales use to discuss the plans and objectives with the customers and seek solutions -always focusing on their needs, markets and opportunities.
With six new modules respectively functions, SPIDERweb opens the door to an Internet-based, intelligent spinning mill control. The system o ers the following advantages:
• support for systematic preventative maintenance • fact-based and quick reaction to deviations • increase in plant availability and productivity
October 2015
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27
PRE SHOW PRESS MEET India ITME-2016 - the “Game changer & catalyst” for Textile industry & Textile Machinery manufacturers
European countries, which is relatively costly. For textile machinery manufacturers from Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, Italy and Spain, India remains the most important market with the export worth millions of dollars.
The 10th edition of India International Textile Machinery Exhibition 2016, the largesttextile machinery and accessory exhibition in India is to be held from 3rdto 8th December 2016 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India. Spread over 1,50,000 sq. mtrs, with expected participation from 93 countries and strength of about 1000 exhibitorsfrom across the globein 17 chapters spanning the textile segment from raw material to nished products,India ITME 2016 is the focal event for the textile and textile engineering industry in India and in the neighboring region. Global Textile machinery market is witnessing tremendous growth buoyed by growing demand of textile & apparel market. The major manufacturers of textile machinery are Germany,Italy, Switzerland, France and now China. One of the major trends in the Global Textile Machinery market is the growing number of technological innovations. In India, industry witnessed a growth of 8-10 per cent to Rs.22,000crore in 2014 from Rs 20,000 crore in 2013.The size of India’s textile machinery industry is poised to double to Rs 45,000 crore in the next 7 years from the present Rs.22,000 crorein light of new projects and emphasis on setting up textile parks. The textile machinery manufacturing section is one of the important segments of the machinery manufacturing industry in India. This industry is nearly sixty years old and has more than1000 machinery and component manufacturing units. Nearly 300 units produce complete machinery and the remaining produces various textile machinery components. India’s textile and apparel industry (domestic + exports) is expected to grow from the current US $ 107 Bn. to US $ 223 Bn. by 2021. India is expected to be a leading textile producing country in the world by 2020. The strength of the Indian textile industry is very apparent from the robust attendance by the Indian delegation in all international textile machinery shows. However, the domestic textile engineering industry is unable to ful ll the industry demand and a large volume of textile machinery is sourced from
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India has the potential to become manufacturing hub in the textile machinery, with abundance of skilled labour, low cost and natural resources available, provided su cient focus is given on research and development in order to ensure modern and innovative technologies are developed in our country. Today the need of our country is skill development, research activity, new investments and new market development. India ITME Society, a 36 year old apex non-pro t industry body has continuously strived through “ITME Series” to facilitate and push towards these goals.From 1980 onwards to ensure ow of latest technology and attract customized product launches for Indian market, the Society has been organizing this once in 4 years mega event. India’s strategic location and democratic atmosphere o ers easy access to all neighboring economies as well as o er opportunity to experience the pulse of local customers, especially Indian markets with their huge population base and growing rural markets. The 10th India ITME to be held in December 2016 will serve as an ideal convergence point for all exhibitors, buyers, agents and dealers from Asian, Middle East and European countries. With many new countries and 137 new companies, who have never before participated in India ITME, two new Chapters on display, the 10th Edition of India ITME Exhibition is designed to be Bigger, Better, Bolder than ever before. A complete solution provider under one roof to textile industry for technology up-gradation, product launch, as well as networking, India ITME today is the back bone in Textile and Textile Engineering Industry in India. It is one of the premium events globally with 93 countries ensuring their presence as exhibitor and visitor. It is a pride for Mumbai city as well as our nation to host such a prestigious business event next year. India ITME 2016 is supported by Heavy Industries Department, Textile Ministry, NSIC and many other domestic and international organizers, making it one of the most anticipated exhibitions in the year of 2016. The 10th Edition of this event compliments our Governments “Make in India” Campaign and an International Press Conference and Networking Event is organized in Milan this November to invite international visitors to ITME next year. India ITME-2016 is much anticipated & looked forward by Industry member, Technical Study Students Researches, Education of Textile & Textile Engineering Industry. It’s a catalyst to realize our future goals and growth target for Indian Textile and Textile Engineering Industry. This is a must participate, must visit, event, if you are in textile business.
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October 2015
AGM MEET AGM of FAITMA held on 29th September 2015.
Speech by Shri. Rahul Mehta at the Annual General Meeting of FAITMA held in Mumbai on 29th September 2015. Shri. Rahul Mehta, Chairman, Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) was the chief guest and delivered the key- note address. He stated that the main problem with Indian textile industry is that industry is not united. There are separate associations for spinners, weavers, power looms, processors, synthetic yarn spinners, cotton textiles, clothing manufacturers etc. Hence, segment - wise pressure made by these associations with government is not very e ective. There should be a single agency to represent all segments and sectors of the textile industry. He suggested leading associations like AEPC, CITI, CMAI, FAITMA should sit together and discuss in a common platform in order to address the issues facing the textile industry and take-up the same with government agencies.
Updating Knowledge. Shri Rahul Mehta, advised industrial community, especially young generation to shun the “ I know all ” attitude and try to improve their knowledge by attending training progarmmes, seminars etc. on modern developments in management and technology. Exposure to knowledge and change in business practices is essential for a rm’s growth. Similarly expansion and product diversi cation is also crucial for success. 70% of the Indian population is below the age of 35. These factors are to be kept in mind while planning product diversi cation in textile sector. Modern world is a dynamic world where everything including technology is changing fast and the Indian industry should catch-up with the fast changing techno managerial scenario. He spoke about the I V league where workshops/ lectures by experts are organized for the bene t of young entrepreneurs whose investment is between Rs.5-00 crores and 50 crores. The topics are mostly management and technology - related.
Payment Default Regarding the problem of ugrani, (Payment default) he stated that unless there is unity, this problem cannot be tackled. He narrated his experience in tackling this problem in the clothing sector, where he created a pyramid of about 100 persons drawn from various manufacturing units from di erent locations of Mumbai. The details of defaulters were given to all members and made procurement of new stock by the defaulter impossible as nobody supplies to a defaulter. By this arrangement, they could recover Rs. 400/ crores out of outstanding amount of Rs. 1500/ crores. CMAI is teaming with agencies devoted for arbitration like Indian Merchants chamber etc are now planning to create its own panel of arbitrators. The decision of arbitrator is like a court decree which is binding on both parties. His dream is to make entire industry credit- free. Mr. Mehta pointed out that when large manufacturers are selling fabrics with advance payments, small manufacturers are forced to sell on credit. He stated that only clothing stage, there is credit sale, not on yarn, fabrics etc.
October 2015
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Productivity. Productivity is an area neglected by Indian industry. It is an accepted fact that productivity is low in India. Cost of production in China and Sri Lanka is higher than India, however, due to the higher productivity; their products are more competitive in the international market than that of India. There is need to focus in improving productivity which increases the pro tability also. If need be reputed consultants may be hired for the purpose.
Brand Building: Shri. Rahul Mehta advised Faitma members to build the brand image. Once the brand image is established the market and growth of the industry is self-sustainable and quoted the examples of Raymond, Liva, Killer Jeans etc. A product with a good brand image fetches a better price also. He further stated that when small manufacturers forced to sell on credit ranging up to 90 days, whereas products with good brand values are booked by making advance payments. If the rm fails to market their products, their fall is inevitable. He recalled the Garment Fair organized by CMAI annually where hundreds of brands and thousands of retailers participate, facilitating business worth thousands of crores. Mr. Mehta questioned the reliability of Govt data on industrial production and growth released periodically. As per government, the industry is growing by 10-12% per annum, whereas individual units grew at 3-4%. These are to be examined. He blamed the role of unorganized sector for this anomalous situation. Regarding free trade agreements, he said that some of the FTAs are harmless and some are harmful also. FTA with China and Japan may not a ect Indian textile industry but that of with US and Indonessia may a ect. Industry should be vigilant on the FTAs.
Goods and services Tax. (GST.) Mr. Rahul Mehta hoped that the rate for textile products in the GST regime will be reasonable. He preferred a low to medium rates for textile products. Shri. Mehta thanked Faitma for inviting him as chief Guest for the AGM. The address ended with an aggressive applause by the members.
Formation of a committee of members of Faitma and CMAI. Shri. V Y Tamhane, Hon’Advisor, Faitma, summing-up the programme, proposed that the producers of fabrics and clothing have common interest and they should work in close coordination which would be bene cial for both. Shri.Tamhane mooted the idea of formation of a small committee consisting of 3-4 members each from both Faitma and CMAI to nd a solution for synergy between manufacturers of fabrics and clothing so that common problems could be sorted out by dialogue. It was decided that Faitma will take further action to take the proposal forward.
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POST SHOW REPORT ITF Dubai 2015 creates Textile & Fashion Bonanza in the Middle Eastern Textile Market
In the ‘Pearl of the Persian Gulf’, albeit at Hall 2 of the Dubai World Trade Centre, the atmosphere wasablaze with the excitement of the textile and fashion trade industry. The International Textile Fair has nally commenced, bringing to an end months of frenzied tizzy among the global textile industry. Gracing the presence of event was His Excellency Majid Saif Al Ghurair, Chairman of Dubai Chamber of Commerce who inaugurated the show. Alongside His Excellency was Mr. Ram Bhagchandani, Chairman of TEXMAS with Mr Ashok Sawlani, Former TEXMAS Chairman and Mr. Ravi Bhusan. Kicking o the fair to a rousing start was Mr. Ahmed Badr the representative for Pantone, who spoke about the color trends for 2016/17, and how the colors have a signi cant impact on the upcoming trends. Taking over the dais next Ms. Mallory Giardino of Ethical Fashion Forum, addressed the issue of business case of sustainability in fashion and textiles. At the stroke of noon, a stylist tutorial by the Islamic Fashion & Design Council (IFDC) served as a welcome respite from the vigorous business milieu of the fair; even as visitors source fabrics from across the world at the numerous international exhibitor stalls. Seeing close to 7,000 visitors at the event, one of ITF’s esteemed repeat exhibitors from Italy, Carlo Pozzi, Mr. Alberto confessed that he would “come again ten times more!” UAE’s own label, Fabrics & More, a rst time exhibitor with ITF Dubai had Ms. Simone Hasker say, “Cannot wait to be a part of the next show- will de nitely be back again.” Presiding over the rostrum Ms. Emma Hall, delved into the details of starting her design label ‘Haylan Hall Swimwear’, followed by Ms. Shlaga Agarwal and Eljammi Gozalli from American University in the Emirates. A hijab & make-up tutorial organized by the IFDC will acquaint the ITF visitors to the concept of ‘Islamic fashion.’ ITF Dubai not only had its own down pour of student population in the UAE from its various academic partners but also saw interested budding fashion designers & interior decorators attending high school at the mere age of 16 and 17 turning up for the show! A couple of enthusiastic girls from Our Own English High School, Dubai confessed that they were “really impressed by the di erent kind of fabrics and the Trends Area looked superb!” Also having confessed that they were “looking to see more machinery companies on board for the next show” left Team ITF convinced that they were sure to see them next season as well! Ms. Ayesha Siddequa (Founder and creative director, Future Fashion) spoke about ‘Looking good without costing the Earth’; while providing insights into the topic of sustainable fashion. Bringing in a very interested panel of students all the way from Heriot Watt University and a troop of designers crossing seas from Australia, Ms. Siddequa’s conference session was nothing short of being a ‘full house’.
ITF Dubai Trends Area- she admitted happily, “Congrats, it was a great, great event! Well done team!” keeping the spirits of everyone high and soaring continuously. With another successful edition under its belt, the ITF – Dubai 2015 will be regarded as a landmark in the global textile industry.
About International Textile Fair International Textile Fair- Dubai is UAE’s premier platform for fashion and fabrics. ITF, Dubai showcased Pre-collection Spring/ Summer 2017 and Autumn/Winter 2016 highlights. With close to 100 exhibitors, the fair aims to expand with each event become a major in uence on the UAE fashion scene. Principally a “trade only” event, ITF provides a professional and conducive atmosphere to business and networking for manufacturers, traders and designers both internationally and within the region. In response to the need for a dedicated trade exhibition in Dubai- UAE, the show has been designed as a quality event for the Fashion Fabrics Business in the UAE. ITF is attended by leading fashion and apparel buying houses from the Middle Eastern market.
Show visitor pro le: o
Fabric Importers, DistributorsW and Wholesalers.
o
Garment Exporters and Manufacturers.
o
Buying houses & agents.
o
Local & International Retail Chains.
o
Department Stores.
o
Apparel Brands.
o
Fashion Designers & Merchandisers.
o
Design Studios & Institutes.
Featuring the Russian designer’s, Ms. Katya Kovtunovich, in the
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October 2015
POST EVENT REPORT ALL INDIA EXPORTERS’ CHAMBER CELEBRATES ITS PLATINUM JUBILEE
The All India Exporters’ Chamber celebrated its Platinum Jubilee today at Hotel Taj Mahal in the august presence of its past Presidents and the leading luminaries of the exports industry. The event was presided over by the President of the Chamber, Ms. Preeti M. Sheth and the Chief Guest at the function was Mr R K Dalmia, Chairman, Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil). The Guest of Honour was Mr Michael Siebert, Consul General of the German Consulate in Mumbai. After a brief introduction of the Chamber, the President of the Chamber, Ms Preeti M. Sheth in her inaugural address welcomed everyone to the momentous occasion of completion of 75 glorious years of the Chamber. She elaborated on the genesis of the organisation which came into being through an amalgamation of the Africa and Overseas Exporters’ Chamber, established in 1939 and the All India Exporters’ Association. It was indeed a matter of pride that the All India Exporters’ Chamber was inaugurated with the amalgamation of both the above chambers in 1959 by late Shri Lal Bahadur Shashtri, the then Commerce Minister of India, she said. Mrs. Preeti M. Sheth further stated that the ve year trade policy also provided a necessary framework for increasing exports of goods and services as well as job creation and increasing value addition in the country. Aim was to reach $900 billion of merchandise and services exports and the total two-way trade was expected to double from the present $1 trillion to $2 trillion annually in the next ve years. This was a gigantic task considering that global economy was still struggling to gain momentum. Ms Preeti M. Sheth also highlighted the various challenges that the Chamber had faced through its existence over 75 years and the various opportunities that hold potential for India’s future growth in exports. She also mentioned that India’s exports play a signi cant role in ensuring success of the ‘Make in India’ initiative. Manufacturing in India, both in volume and value, includes the Chambers exporters, who even in di cult times have kept their nose above water. A lot is being done to suggest thrust areas and key measures which can yield quick results as well as help formulate a long term export strategy, she added. After the special address by Mr. Michael Siebert, the Chief Guest for the day Mr R K Dalmia, Chairman of Texprocil then spoke on the ties between Texprocil and the Chamber which went back many decades in time and was very strong. He said that the Chamber just like Texprocil served as an important link between the overseas buyers and the Indian exporters.
October 2015
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Mr. R K Dalmia stated that textiles export trends do not look encouraging. Decrease in export has given rise to trade de cits. The solution to tackle higher production of textiles in India can be only increase in exports. But foreign demand is not picking up. Besides, our exports have been a ected by slowdown in China as we are heavily dependent on China for exports of cotton and cotton yarn. Moreover, the cost of export nance in India, which is 10%, as compared to cost of export nance of 3 to 4% of our competitors like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Pakistan etc. is also having an impact on our competitiveness. He elaborated on the representations that have been made to the Government like the interest rate subvention, re- calibration of the product- market matrix to include exports to emerging markets so that linkages can be strengthened with the value chains in these markets. Regarding India’s competitiveness he said that e orts must be accelerated to enhance the competitiveness of India’s exports and the government should also expedite conclusion of FTAs with EU, Australia and Canada. He stressed that dialogues need to be initiated with China and Turkey for reduction of duties on Indian textiles products and we need to take recourse to the Review Mechanism available under all the FTAs/ CEPAs signed by India in order to create additional market access. He further added that recent measures of the government like the increase in allocation of funds from Rs 18000 Crs to Rs 21000 Crs under export incentives scheme; Reduction in Repo – Rate; Setting up of Textile Parks and the Relaxation of Coastal Shipping have given a sense of “feel good” to all at a time when the overall global outlook is still in the “recovery mode”. He concluded by saying that amidst a lot that is happening in exports the platinum jubilee celebration was truly a breath of fresh air. The past Presidents of the All India Exporters’ Chamber were then felicitated with a special token of appreciation.
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POST EVENT REPORT Seminar On “ Smart Use Of technology” – Held in Surat on 10th October 2015.
It was a great honour for Kushal Network of Textile (KNOT) to conceive and host a full day seminar on “Smart Use of Technology” on 10th October 2015. The supporters of the seminar were Kushal Textile Institute (A trusted name for synthetic textiles), Standon Consulting (Mumbai), Textile Graph (A voice of textile) and The Textile Association (I) South Gujarat Unit. Textile Excellence (Mumbai) worked as media partner for the event. The seminar created history in Surat as a rst of its kind in many ways like Theme of Seminar, Age group of delegation, Organizational Body etc.
Business Development, Grasim Industries Ltd. talked about new generation viscose yarns namely Modal & Excel. He gave more focus on there newly developed LIVA BRAND. He explained in total the companies assistance from product making to product marketing. Mr. Mahesh Maheshwari Director, Nimbark Fashions Ltd. delivered paper on Fancy yarns produced by them. He discussed in detail about Mahak (Linen Look) Yarn, Glider (Silk Look) Yarn and other varieties of fancy cum blended yarns which they have made considering requirement of end use customers. Mr. Sharad
Kushal Network Of Textile “KNOT”, an organization of entrepreneurs and professionals associated with Textile, was established in 2009. KNOT aims to boost con dence of textile entrepreneurs of Surat, by developing skills among them with knowledge of latest technologies and business trends. With average age of 35 years and 90 % of delegation below 45 years, event evoked a tremendous response which forced the organizers to close registration before 3-days due to lack of space. More than 250 delegates and invitees attended the seminar. The Theme of the seminar was “Smart Use of Technology” (With reference to the weaving industry of Surat). Event was divided in two sessions. First on Machinery Subject and second on Yarns & techno economic subject. Mr. Manish Daga (Managing Director) of Cotton Guru was the Chief Guest of the event, unfortunately because of sudden ill health couldn’t grace the occasion. Dr. R. S. Gandhi (Ex. Director) of MANTRA was special invitee. He delivered very inspirational speech to august gathering. Mr. Sharad Tandon, a very well-known textile consultant & CEO of Standon Consulting chaired the rst session as Session Chairman. Mr. Chetan Londhe , Vice president – Sales of Picanol India Pvt. Ltd. presented paper on “Smart use of technology in weaving”. He explained the need of modern technology with detail technical description of Rapier and Air-jet weaving machines. He described di erent development stages of this machines and also explained how to select model as per product requirement. Mr. Hans Scherpereel, Area Sales Manager, Bonas Textile Machinery, Belgium gave a presentation on new development in electronic jacquards. He briefed for development in clear shed formation in higher capacity jacquards and also showed concept of using smart creels on weaving machines for warp supply. Dr. N. N. Mahapatra Vice-President, Business Development, Colorant Ltd., Ahmedabad chaired the second session as Session Chairman. In the beginning he explained need of knowing new generation yarns. He gave good guidance for Milk Fibre, Soya bean bre, Pineapple Fibre etc. Mr. Kiran Pandya General Manager,
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Tandon CEO, Standon Consulting presented a paper on economic scenario of textile industry & business. He explained about return on investment in jacquard weaving plant in comparison with other normal investing area. He showed the potential growth of Home Furnishing Market. Finally Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu Chairman, Kushal Network of Textile (KNOT), Surat delivered Vote of Thanks in his very unique style, summarising each paper in local language as well remarking & thanking dignitaries for their very e ective & informative presentations and thanking session chairman’s for nicely conducting the session and making healthy question-answer moments. He gave a very special thanks to sponsors of the event Birla Cellulose, NV Bonas Textile Machineries, Nimbark Fashions Ltd. and Picanol India Pvt. Ltd. Thanks were given to co-sponsors Bluemoon machine mfg. co., Go Tex machineries, Kiran Sales and Prashant Group. Special thanks were given to Mr. Amrish Bhatt (Textile Graph) for his kind support and Mr. Arvind Semlani (Textile excellence) for coverage of event in their media. He also thanked his team members for putting tremendous organizational e orts under guidance of Mr. Neeraj Modi (President, Knot) , Mr. Ibrahim Ghadiali and Mr. Hemal Sakkai (Vice president, Knot).
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October 2015
POST SHOW REPORT Twin textile trade shows Yarnex & TexIndia The two most awaited trade fairs; the seventh edition of Yarnex and fourth edition of TexIndia, took place concurrently from September 10-12, 2015, at the India Knit Fair Complex in Tirupur, the knitwear hub of South India. The twin shows were organized under the banner of Textile Fairs India, by SS Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. from Bangalore. While Yarnex had 51 exhibitors displaying textile products like value-added bres and yarns, TexIndia had 41 exhibitors showcasing apparel fabrics, trimmings, embellishments and also Job Workers. Supplier of services related to the textile and apparel industry too had participating in both the shows. The value added bres and yarns on display at Yarnex include; spandex bres, BCI yarns, organic yarns, colour mélange and dyed yarns, modal yarns, recycled polyester yarns, metallic yarns, iridescent yarns, antique yarns, fancy yarns, grindle yarns, indigo yarn, vortex yarn, compact yarns and many others. At TexIndia, exhibitors had showcased organic fabrics in various blends, wool fabrics, Tencel fabrics, silk fabrics, solid dyed and yarn dyed knitted fabrics, di erent types of lace and crochet fabrics, various types of zippers, hangers, elastic tapes and webbings, badges, barcodes, labels, tags, etc.
BCI BCI is a not-for-pro t organization. We don’t have any products to show. I would like to take this opportunity to brie y introducing The Better Cotton Initiative. BCI is a not-for-pro t organisation stewarding the global standards for Better Cotton, and bringing together cotton’s complex supply chain, from the farmers to the retailers. Globally 45 international brands including adidas, H&M, IKEA, Levi Strauss & Co., M&S and Nike already use Better Cotton in their products. Their support and that of all BCI’s members means that more and more Better Cotton is coming onto the market. In 2014, 8.7% of all the cotton produced globally was Better Cotton. By 2020, we want this gure to be 30%. We believe 30% will be a tipping point and lead to transformational change for the entire sector. That’s better for the farmers, the environment and the cotton sector, and that’s better for all of us.
It has been a long felt need for job workers in Tirupur to promote their services amongst the knitwear manufacturers and exporters. For the rst time, TexIndia has brought together, job workers and knitwear manufacturers and exporters to interact under one roof. TexIndia also be an ideal platform for knitwear manufacturers and brands to nd the right job working companies to outsource their requirements. Major exhibit job worker categories include circular knitting, at knitting, dyeing, nishing, printing, embroidery and garmenting. Exhibitors at both the fairs hail from various parts of India and overseas like UK, Japan, Austria, Hong Kong, Ludhiana, Delhi, Ahmedabad, Surat, Mumbai, Chandigarh, Indore, Secunderabad and o course from Erode, Coimbatore and also Tirupur.
Few Exhibitors details: Applied DNA Sciences Using biotechnology as a forensic foundation, Applied DNA Sciences keeps life real and safe by providing botanical-DNA based solutions to protect assets, products, brands, supply chains, and intellectual property of companies, governments and consumers from theft, counterfeiting, fraud and diversion. Superior quality originates from the right source materials from the ber all the way through to nished fabrics. Applied DNA Sciences’ “Fiber Forward” provides DNA-tagging and authentication solutions that help with raw material sourcing, traceability, veri cation of greige goods, as well as protect nished fabric and specialty coatings. For more information, please visit our website at www.adnas. com, or feel free to contact us at textilesales@adnas.com to get started.
October 2015
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MANTRAM FASHIONS & APPARELS Mantram Fashions & Apparels is venture founded by team of Techno commercial people who have worked in leading Brands of India in Textiles & Clothings. They have Passion for Fashion – Delivering the Desired Value with International quality & fashion is basic reason of our existence.
Products : 1. F Cube – Positioned as Premium Shirting Brand which has Unique Modern Styling with value added Fabrics for young professionals who needs right dressing in Board rooms or at o ces.F Cube will create a Niche were Fashion with Variety but essence of Formal clothing is maintained. 2. F. Com – Positioned as Casual Brand for young & trendy youth of India. Quality Policy… Mantram Fashions & Apparels is committed to provide quality products with no compromise on quality standards. They are manufacturing all our products from best Garments factories in India which meets all International norms of Mfg & Social compliances related to Garment mfg. for further queries, email us : mantramfashions@gmail.com
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{|}{~ | Â&#x20AC;Â ~|Â&#x201A;Â&#x201E;Â&#x2020; Â&#x20AC; [ Â&#x2021; ^~Â ^Â&#x2C6;{ Â&#x2030; _ Â&#x2021; â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make in India & build in Indiaâ&#x20AC;? TEXTILE FRIENDS Focus group, 7 people visited to CIRCOT on 7th October, 2015. Group interacted with scientist of CIRCOT. Main objective of group is to understand the CIRCOT scientist work. Many industry contributors do not know that CIRCOT have existence in India. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a very Strange but its truth. Indian cotton researchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only institute is CIRCOT, experience converted to commercially useful application. TEXTILE FRIENDS wants to build bridge between scientist and industry users, Our Indian Scientist should be properly positioned, recognized, placed in the international market. Many gaps in industry in each value chain, research "'*<=><['*\<=]^_`*{]|*"}_]'|~[* <[*}Â |*{^*Â&#x201A;<\^*Â&#x192;Â } _^}Â&#x192;^*|Â *<Â&#x2020;Â&#x2020;=[* it as a commercially. From textile friends group: Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman of Kotak commodity; Mr. Shiv Kanodia, Ex Sec of Bharat Merchant Chambers; Mr. Manish Daga, CottonGURU ; Mr. M.L. Jhunjunwala, President of RSWM,; Mr. J.B. Soma, member of TAI ; Ms. Jigna Shah, Editor & Publisher of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Magazine, Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisor were present during the meet.
{^="^\^'*"}*" Â&#x2020;=^ ^}|Â&#x2013;<Â&#x2020;Â&#x2020;=[* ~'|*"}*Â&#x201A;Â ]'^*<}_*|Â&#x201A;^}*Â&#x192;Â ]}"Â&#x192;<|^* to the world about new discovery. Eg. CIRCOT director cabin is made out of cotton stalk which was amazing use of cotton waste. Linter is 99.99 % useful but processed only 5% in India. As linter Export have a great demand internationally, Indian company earn by exporting. Linter is same as Wood pulp, Linter is converted to Viscose rayon which have huge demand in world. But India missing the scope of conversion form linter to viscose due to wrong mindset. Biomass of cotton generate good amount of power which can be use in running ginning factory. First time in Asia NANO PULP Pilot Plant recently developed by CIRCOT it have multiple application in varied industries like Tex|"=^'`*\"~]'* =|~<|"Â }`*Â&#x2014;<"}|`*Â&#x160;=<''`*Â&#x2DC;Â Â _*`*Â&#x2122;^_"Â&#x192;"}^`*Â&#x2018;^ ^}|`*Â&#x2DC;"= '`* paper coating.
Meeting was started with theme song of ICAR and CIRCOT activity video. It was fruitful interactive session under the leadership of Mr. Suresh Kotak. Few highlights of the discussion below:
Mr. Srinivasan former director stated that about major research done by the institute â&#x20AC;&#x153;Value added products developed to create niche market in the world. Ginning quality improved from long years without much {^~* =Â ''Â&#x2021;* Â&#x161;<'|* _^Â&#x192;ade, we managed many ginning factories in maintaining & optimized use of machine. Bail tracking mechanism developed. Quality improvement taken into priority by Quality management program. Spinning research, developed & evaluated & informed to the government, then communicated to the industry & farmers. It takes minimum. 4-5 years of time. Backward & forward integration with farmer already established with Mechani@ [ \ @ ] ^_ ` @ [ _ with lesser water and power developed by scientist.
Dr. Chatopadhyay stated that â&#x20AC;&#x153;Research has changed a lot |Â _<[* <'* Â&#x192;Â Â&#x2020;<~^* |Â * Â&#x2020;<'|Â&#x2021;* Â&#x2C6;Â >* _"\^~'" Â&#x192;<|"Â }* Â Â&#x2030;* Â&#x192;Â ||Â }`* <__"}Â&#x160;* \<=]^`*{=^}_"}Â&#x160;*>"|Â&#x201A;*Â |Â&#x201A;^~* {^~'*Â&#x2039;}<|]~<=*`*<~|" Â&#x192;"<=Â&#x152;**"'*}^Â&#x192;^''"|[Â&#x2021;* Improving functional value of cotton, binary blending, used cotton as technical application, used as interface with rubber, nylon, Â&#x2020;Â =[^'|^~Â&#x2021;*Â&#x2018;Â ^~Â&#x192;"<=*]'^*"'*}[=Â }`*~]{{^~*>"|Â&#x201A;* ]=|"* {^~'*>"|Â&#x201A;* cotton combination fabric used for signal preventing, eg. Medical Operation use of curtain to prevent mobile signals. â&#x20AC;&#x153;
Technical textile segment, cotton has little application as of now but have a great potential. Two areas of technical textile where cotton can be majorly used. One is in medical industry, Cotton being a good absorbent used in wound dressing which has quick healing capacity. Second is Agriculture industry used in crop shielding, crop management, crop rinsing. Cotton nonwoven has attractive proposition, but not being explored. Plasma technology with waterless dyeing of cotton developed.
COTTON is the Textile industry coconut tree. By applied re'^<~Â&#x192;Â&#x201A;`*Â&#x192;Â ||Â }*<Â&#x2020;Â&#x2020;="Â&#x192;<|"Â }`*Â |Â&#x201A;^~*}<|]~<=* {^~*<Â&#x2020;Â&#x2020;="Â&#x192;<|"Â }*<}_*~^'"due of the cotton linters, biobass all parts of cotton is useful. Best invention done with best human resources in house. All retired sci^}|"'|*<='Â *<Â&#x192;|"\^*"}*Â&#x192;Â ||Â }`*Â |Â&#x201A;^~*}<|]~<=* {^~'*~^'^<~Â&#x192;Â&#x201A;Â&#x2021;*Â&#x2018;Â&#x2019;Â&#x201C;Â&#x2018;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2022;*
Cotton polymerization* Â&#x2039;* Â&#x192;Â ||Â }* Â&#x201A;<\^* Â&#x2020;Â =[^'|^~* }"'Â&#x201A;Â&#x2013;* Â&#x2030;^^=Â&#x2013;* look) which can be used in high active wear, sportswear, many more. Moisture management research on this technology is in process.
Mr. Suresh Kotak, who is also present chairman of CIRCOT, stated that â&#x20AC;&#x153;there is a gap between associations, industry and scientist. When compare with international scientist, our scientist are much better. Scientist research is not communicated to industry. My Mission now to bridge the gap between Industry & ISCR ( Indian society for cotton improvement )â&#x20AC;?
ITMA 2015 PRODUCT LAUNCH COLORJET to launch two future ready digital textile printers at ITMA 2015
ting assembly for faster and smoother productions with pigment inks. Automatic temperature control enables printheads to deliver same print results with Pigment inks, while specially integrated VPC technology ensures smooth ow of pigment ink for uninterrupted production runs. The METRO digital textile printer delivers excellent quality prints by virtue of seven colors inks without compromising on the speed in this segment of printers. The second innovative printer is the FABJET-DUO, which has the ‘Power of Two’ in one machine. This printer has a dual ink supply system which gives one the freedom to choose between any two of the three inks; Reactive, Disperse and Pigment and thus by just a ick of a switch, the printer becomes a reactive or pigment or disperse ink printer. y y
METRO, a versatile technologically advanced printer gives the best ROI and Scalability for ever growing business FABJET-DUO, the avant-garde 3.2 meters digital printer o ers the ‘Power of Two’ in one machine and is ideal for printing home textiles
COLORJET Group, India’s largest manufacturer of digital printing machines is introducing two future-ready digital textile printing solutions, the METRO and the FABJET-DUO at ITMA 2015 in hall 18, stall no. H-102 and is also the rst Indian digital textile machine producer to participate at ITMA. The METRO is a truly advanced industrial grade digital textile printer, which fantastically incorporates the latest technology and e cient engineering to meet the ever growing demands of textile business. Compatible to work with all types of inks like reactive acid disperse and pigment, this printer weaves magic on a variety of fabrics. Be it any kind of fabric, ranging from 0.1mm to 30mm including cotton, polyester, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and various blended fabrics can be printed on the METRO.
So now rather than investing in two machines, textile printers have the option to use just one machine for printing with two of the three inks. The FABJET-DUO o ers access to printing cotton and polyester fabrics on the same machine and also makes for a perfect solution for sampling as well as mass production. Not just that, it is ideal for printing of home textiles since the printer has a width of 3.2 metres. “Our digital textile printers are manufactured at a state-of-theart manufacturing facility in India and these two unique printers have been developed from collaborative and inventive R&D to ensure industry needs, like smaller footprints and high energy ef ciency,” COLORJET Group Director, Mr. Pavan Gupta explains. “Through ITMA 2015, we are making the same technologies simultaneously available to the Indian and global textile printing industry and that too at very competitive prices, o ering the least payback period,” Mr. Gupta adds.
With awesome scalable properties, this printer can suit all the needs of the textile printing business and delivers in the least payback period.
To witness the capability of our printers, the company is o ering a unique o er to prospective buyers to mail their designs at marketing@colorjetgroup.com, latest by October 31, 2015 and the printed fabric samples will be handed over in person at our stall at ITMA.
At ITMA, visitors will be able to witness how the METRO has been synchronized and engineered speci cally to produce the best results with pigment inks. Its unique value proposition for customers is the synchronized technology to ensure smooth ring of jet-
In participating at ITMA 2015, COLORJET Group is targeting visitors and buyers from European countries, Turkey, China, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Thailand, Philippines, Pakistan, Brazil, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, etc.
October 2015
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Jupiter Comtex to show innovation in Indigo Rope Dyeing at ITMA 2015 y y
Indigo Rope Dyeing a well proven technology There is no yarn waste or shade variation and o ers higher productivity Incorporates a very accurate PLC controlled pre-calibrated cup dosing system
Jupiter o ers the latest technology as its machines are continually upgraded with highly technological features which are user friendly, making the machines highly e cient. Additionally, machines are delivered on time and prompt after-sales service is provided, resulting in maximum number of repeat orders.
India based producer and exporter of warping, sizing and indigo denim yarn and fabric dyeing technologies, Jupiter Comtex Pvt Ltd is introducing a new innovation in Indigo Rope Dyeing technology at ITMA 2015 in hall H 1 booth G 111 in a stall size of 140 sq. metres.
Jupiter holds a massive 90% share of the Indian denim fabric dyeing machinery installed in India and counts among its Indian clients the top denim fabric makers in India like Arvind Ltd, Aarvee Denim, Nandan Denim, RSWM Ltd, Raymond, Sangam (India), etc.
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Since it is not possible to display the whole technology, the company is showing important components of the machine viz., the Lease Reed & Ball Warping Headstock; Indigo Dye Tank of Rope Dyeing and the Headstock of the Long Chain Beamer. The Indigo Rope Dyeing technology is well proven among various yarn counts to obtain deep Indigo shades of around 6%, in which, ropes are prepared on ball warping after which cones are converted into ropes. Hence, there is no yarn waste or shade variation and also o ers higher productivity due to continuous process. The Jupiter Comtex Indigo Rope Dyeing machine is technologically di erent than others. It has a tension control system which is digital, while reliability is high as critical parts like drives, sensors, load cell, etc are imported from Europe and the PLC controlled precalibrated cup dosing system is very accurate and reliable than metering pump dosing system.
The company which also o ers denim sheeting dyeing machines has till-date successfully installed 90 of these sheeting dyeing machines worldwide and expects to reach the magical gure of 100 by the rst half of 2016. Jupiter’s wide range of machineries nd their way in to various global textile hubs like Brazil, Bangladesh, Egypt, Ethiopia, Indonesia, Iran, Kenya, Oman, Nigeria, Russia, Tanzania, Turkey, etc. By participating at ITMA 2015, the company wants to expand its footprint in each of those countries and also explore other countries. About Jupiter Comtex Pvt. Ltd Established in 1973, India based Jupiter Comtex Pvt Ltd manufactures world-class weaving preparatory textile machineries made under stringent quality control conditions and a creditable track record of prompt after sales service. For more information please visit http://jupitercomtex.com
Kusters Calico to show new innovative Fabric Washers at ITMA 2015 y y y
Both washers consume very less water thereby conserving water Super Flush Washer can handle sensitive woven fabrics from viols to Lycra Flush Master caters to requirements of pile fabric processing and print washing of tension sensitive synthetic home furnishing fabrics with high twist yarns
India based manufacturer of the most a ordable and excellent wet processing concepts for woven and knit fabrics, Kusters Calico Machinery Pvt. Ltd will display two latest washing concepts at ITMA 2015 to be held in Milan, Italy in Hall – 10, Booth - G 115. Kusters Calico which is also a subsidiary of the Germany based €300million Jagenberg Group will showcase the Super Flush washer in combination with an intermittent squeezer and the Flush Master, a new concept washer to cater to the requirements of pile fabric processing.
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The Super Flush washer with various combinations is the most e ective washer in today’s textile processing industry for woven fabric processing, while the Flush Master washer, also with various combinations, has been developed to cater to the requirements of pile fabric processing and after print washing of tension sensitive synthetic home furnishings produced from high twist yarns. In the Super Flush Washer, the combined washing e ect of
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October 2015
both horizontal as well as vertical washing produces penetrative, di usive and turbulent e ect, while consuming the lowest water in its category. In the Super Flush, the distance between the two fabric guiding rollers is very short, due to which it is possible to handle all kinds of woven fabrics including tension sensitive from Viols to Lycra fabrics. With a fabric content of 20 metres between two drives, the tension control is through load cell, while circulating liquor quantity is independent of incoming fresh water. In the Flush Master Washer, a high jet water spray produces penetrative, di usive and turbulent washing e ect, which helps to reduce the attening e ect in pile fabrics created by nips and helps the fabric regain its original look to a large extent. The Flush Master Washer also consumes the lowest amount of water. In the washing compartment which can stock 6 metres, the fabric tension is the least, due to the small distance between two driven rolls. Here too, the circulating liquor quantity is independent of incoming fresh water. In the same stall, an S-Roll Dye padder will be displayed by Jagenberg Textiles, Germany, also a Group Company, which caters to the European markets and OEM requirements of European machine manufacturers. Kusters Calico currently exports around 70 percent of production to markets in Turkey, Thailand, South America, US, Indonesia, Iran, Bangladesh, Korea, Vietnam, Europe, Egypt, Sri Lanka, Russia,
Middle East, Africa and many other countries apart from catering to the Indian market. Kusters Calico is represented by agents in 25 countries across the globe like Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, Belarus, Turkey, Spain, Sweden, Portugal, France, South Korea, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, China, Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Egypt, Indonesia, Pakistan, Syria, South Africa, etc. Mr Sushil Verma, Managing Director, Kusters Calico says, “Kusters Calico is committed to provide best solutions for wet processing machines for woven and knit fabrics at a ordable prices both in India and worldwide markets, while also expanding its business in coating and lamination technology.” “We are currently initiating factory expansion with a dust proof assembly shop to meet growing demand and quality expectations of our customers. This new expansion will help us deliver in shorter lead times and meet customer deadlines,” he adds. About Kusters Calico Machinery Pvt. Ltd: Kusters Calico Machinery Pvt. Ltd is engaged in manufacturing and installing the most a ordable and excellent wet processing concepts for woven and knit fabrics, worldwide since its inception in 1996. Our solutions in each execution is a testimony of our expertise in process know how, design, manufacturing, installation and servicing. Quick and accurate response to after sales service and spares makes Kusters Calico, the most favoured supplier to customers worldwide.
Textechno at the ITMA 2015 Milano
At the ITMA 2015 in Milano, Italy, TEXTECHNO Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG and their subsidiary company LENZING INSTRUMENTS (Austria) will present a number of brand-new testing instruments
a stand-alone unit or in combination with the capacitive evenness tester COVAFIL+ and the count tester COMCOUNT provides - apart from tensile strength and elongation - all relevant yarn parameters in one test system only.
for bres, yarns, and fabrics. To Textechno’s ‘Cotton Control Line’ several innovative instruments have been added including the MDTA 4 microdust-, neps-, trash-, and bre-length tester as well as the automatic capacitiveevenness-
For determining the number of interlaces Textechno has developed the new Interlace and Interlace Stability Tester ITEMAT+ TSI as the successor of the well-known ITEMAT by Enka tecnica after taking over all rights on this instrument. While the basic principle was kept the same, drives and electronics have been replaced by state-of-the-art technology and the mechanical interlace sensor has been completely re-designed to serve a larger linear-density range at better reproducibility. Another highlight is the automatic drapability tester DRAPETEST for technical- and non-crimp fabrics. This instrument allows to automatically characterize drapability and to detect defects during draping and forming. The tester combines the measurement of the force, which is arising due to forming, with an optical analysis of small-scale defects such as gaps and undulation by means of image analysis. A further optional sensor can determine large-scale defects such as wrinkles.
and count tester for slivers and rovings COVASLIVE. STATIMAT DS together with COVASLIVE o er the combination of the most essential test methods for slivers, rovings, and yarns - tensile properties, evenness and count – with a high degree of e ciency and exibility. In the eld of automatic single- bre testing FAVIMAT+ is now featuring more test methods incorporated in the equipment. A new sample feed unit - AUTOFEED – reduces labour for preparation of the test specimen and introduction into the test eld to literally zero. Textechno’s new automatic capacitive evenness tester for lament yarn COVAMAT with its novel sensor design, automatic package changer and a high-speed yarn twister ful lls all requirements on an e ective and reliable quality control system. The concept to operate the universal lament yarn tester DYNAFIL ME+ either as
October 2015
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Joint booth of the Textechno Group – Textechno and Lenzing Instruments: Hall 2, booth E104 Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH & Co.KG
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PICANOL TO PRESENT NEW RAPIER & AIRJET INNOVATIONS AT ITMA MILANO 2015
INTERNATIONAL DEBUTS FOR OPTIMAX-I, TERRYMAX-I AND TERRYPLUS SUMMUM On the occasion of the ITMA Milano fair (which is being staged from 12-19 November 2015) Picanol will be presenting a wide variety of new airjet and rapier weaving machines. The year 2015 sees Picanol celebrating 40 years of manufacturing rapier weaving machines with the global launch of its new OptiMax-i and TerryMax-i machines. A further highlight at the upcoming fair will be the TERRYplus Summum. To ensure it places maximum focus on its weaving machines capacities, Picanol will be presenting its machines in a brand new booth design at the ITMA fair. Its new booth will have a special zone situated in the center that will be occupied by an OMNIplus Summum airjet weaving machine with new features. Picanol will have ten weaving machines on display at its booth (Hall 1, Booth D 101) and will be weaving a wide array of fabrics including shirting, denim, terry and automotive right through to technical fabrics. In addition, a Picanol OptiMax-i with jacquard will be on display at the Bonas booth and an OMNIplus Summum will be demonstrated at the Stäubli booth. Celebrating 40 years of rapier machines with the OptiMax-i Picanol has an extensive track-record in regard to the production of high-tech rapier machines. “The year 2015 means that it is exactly 40 years ago that we launched our very rst weaving machine with a rapier insertion. Since the launch of the rst rapier all the time ago, we have sold over 90,000 rapier machines throughout the world. As our very rst rapier was presented to the world at the ITMA Milano fair in 1975, we are delighted that Milan will once again be the stage for displaying some of our rapier innovations” explained Johan Verstraete, VP Sales, Marketing & Services at Picanol. “With industrial speeds of up to 750 rpm, the new OptiMax-i is now unquestionably the fastest rapier weaving machine in the world that is industrially produced. Highlights of the new rapier include the increased performance, rigid construction, new applications, intelligent energy e ciency, improved ergonomics and user-friendliness. The OptiMax-i is available in reed widths ranging from 190 to 540 centimeters. Thanks to its optimized rapier drives it remains the fastest rapier machine with the Guided Gripper system (GC) and the most versatile one with the Free Flight system (FF).” The Guided Positive Gripper (GPG) system has been developed for dedicated technical fabrics. Thanks to the revolutionary Free Flight Positive Gripper system (FPG), weavers are now able to combine and freely mix the most challenging lling yarns. Other features developed to respond to an ever increasing demand for versatility include, among other things, the Electronic Filling Tensioner (EFT), the SmartEye lling detector and the SmartCut lling cutter. New weaving machines for weaving terry cloth The ITMA fair will also see Picanol presenting its new TerryMax-i (rapier) and the new TERRYplus Summum (airjet) weaving machines, both of which have been developed for terry cloth. This makes Picanol the only provider on the market that o ers both
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airjet and rapier terry machines. The direct electronic drive of the cloth fell mechanism guarantees a perfect pile formation and enables weavers to not only program the pile height loop by loop, but also to program the prebeat-up distance of every single lling yarn, which in turn enables endless design possibilities. Features include OptiSpeed, pile height monitoring and needle roller control. “Following our previous participations at ITMA Milano in 1959, 1975, 1983 and 1995, we are very much looking forward to returning to Milan once again and demonstrating our new rapier and airjet technologies to the textile world. Picanol o ers the best mix of machines and services that enable weavers to create every type of fabric imaginable. In line with our marketing campaign ‘Let’s grow together’ (see more at www.letsgrowtogether.be), everyone at Picanol endeavors to ensure that our machines are more energye cient, more versatile, user-friendly and easy to set. This means that we can continue to demonstrate that we are the technology leader in both airjet and rapier weaving machines” explained Johan Verstraete. Picanol weaving machines represent a synthesis of technological know-how and experience that has been built up over almost 80 years. This has resulted in more than 350,000 machines being produced. Picanol is proud to con rm that it currently has more than 175,000 weaving machines running in some 2,600 weaving mills throughout the world. y
WEAVING MACHINES ON DISPLAY AT THE PICANOL BOOTH: RAPIER MACHINES: o OptiMax-i (4 – P – 540), technical fabric o OptiMax-i (4 – R – 190), fancy denim o OptiMax-i (4 – R – 190), lter cloth o OptiMax-i (8 – J – 190), decoration
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o TerryMax-i (8 – R – 260), terry AIRJET MACHINES o TERRYplus Summum (6 – J – 260), terry o OMNIplus Summum (4 – P – 190), lining o OMNIplus Summum (6 – R – 190), shirting o OMNIplus Summum (4 – R – 190), automotive o OMNIplus Summum (4 – P – 280), sheeting
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WEAVING MACHINES ON DISPLAY AT OTHER BOOTHS: OptiMax-i (12 – J – 340), decoration (rapier, Bonas booth) OMNIplus Summum (4 - J – 190), African damask (airjet, Stäubli booth)
Further information, high-resolution pictures and brochures of the new machines can be found at www.picanol.be. Contact persons: Mr. Erwin Devloo (+32 (0)57 222 090 - edv@picanol.be) or Mr. Frederic Dryhoel (+32 (0)57 222 364 - fdrh@picanol.be).
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October 2015
COTTON REPORT
Mr. Manish Daga Textile Technologiest
INDIA Arrivals: (as on date: 15-10-2015)
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During recent eld travel to Gujarat, Central Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka/Telangana, plants exhibited signs of moisture stress, wilting and stunted growth. Moreover, there was large variability in cotton plant development. Stunted growth should lead to a lower number of boll formations and reduced yields according to the USDA.
Domestic Market Summary: Cotton crop in North Indian states of Punjab & Haryana may dip by 40% on white y pest attack.Trade circles expect Punjab crop to
October 2015
fall from 1.4 million bales (2014-15) to 0.7 million bales ll b l ((2015-16)) and d Haryana crop to fall from 2.5 million bales to 1.5 million bales. Damage from the white y attack on the Bt cotton variety in the states of Punjab and Haryana is likely to be extensive and has even been blamed for farmer suicides. The two Indian states are su ering from the rst major pest infestation since India adopted genetically modi ed cotton in 2002, raising concerns over the vulnerability of the GM seeds. With pesticides running out of steam and pests de-
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veloping resistance, alternatives would have to be quickly found. New cotton has started to arrive in Gujarat, Maharashtra, Punjab and South-Indian states. An estimated 70,000 bales (one bale is 170 kg) arrive every day. Traders expect the supply to reach its peak by end-October. There is a good demand from North Indian mills while exporters and mills from South India are buying very small quantities. Seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s peak supply is expected from December onwards. Traders believe price will not decrease much from the current level as it is already very close to MSP. CAI has released its second estimate for the cotton season 2015-16. It lowered its estimate and placed it at 37.70 million bales. The projected balance sheet drawn by the CAI estimated total cotton supply for the new season at 46.76 million bales, while the domestic consumption is estimated at 32.50 million bales, thus leaving a surplus of 14.26 million bales. However, the trading community feels the cotton production will not be more than 35 million bales and total supply including carry forward will be about 40.04 million bales. Traders estimated about 4 million bales opening stock, while according to CAI estimate, the opening stock in new season will be 7.86 million bales.
COTTON ESTIMATE FOR 15-16 ACCORDING TO: 1. Ministry of Agriculture:
33.5 million Bales
2. CCI, B. K. Mishra (CMD):
35 million Bales
3. CAI:
37.7 million Bales
4. USDA:
36.5 million Bales
4. Trade circles:
32.5 to 35 million bales
Cotton Corporation of India (CCI)
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Cotton Corporation of India has reported commencement of new season purchases in the Southern state of Telangana. The government has xed the minimum support price (MSP) for cotton at Rs 3,936-4,100 per quintal, depending on the moisture content.CCI continues to hold almost 0.9 million bales (170 kg bales) from its 2014/15 procurement. The government has xed the minimum support price (MSP) for cotton at Rs 3,936-4,100 per quintal, depending on the moisture content. The payments to farmers would be made through online. In response to the demand of some farmers from Telangana that the MSP be raised to Rs 5,000 per quintal, textiles minister Santosh Kumar Gangwar said his ministry has already urged the Ministry of Finance for upward revision.
Yarn: Contrary to general belief that yarn export is very slow, Spun yarn exports maintained its growth tempo in August 2015.The tempo seems to have slowed down since then. Export of Indian spun yarns has increased in volume, although value is down compared to last year. All of a sudden the decision (on 12th Aug 2015) by Chinese Govt. to devalue its currency RMB by 4% created a sudden panic which added fuel to the sluggish demand and falling yarn prices. This resulted in a lot of unhealthy practices of renegotiation of orders, contract defaults and market crashed by over 10% immediately after this devaluation of RMB.
of Commerce and Industry (VCCI) said that India had had great opportunities to provide raw materials to Vietnam’s textile industry. Vietnam needs more than 500,000 tons of cotton per year to meet the rising demand. He added that India had enough supply of the material for the Vietnamese textile industry. India and Vietnam’s bilateral trade ties have grown signi cantly, with a total trade turnover of $5.59 billion in last year, increasing by 9.84 % compared to 2013. China: Website CN Cotton reports that * China imported just 50,900 tons of cotton in September, a decline of 59% year-on-year. This is the lowest monthly import since records began in 2005, and the second month of record low imports in a row. * Chinese imports for the rst nine months of the year fell 42% to 1.16m tonnes. * Chinese cotton demand has been hit by a range of factors, including massive domestic stocks, a weaker industrial sector, and competition from synthetic bres, which have become cheaper as a result of low petrochemical prices. * Chinese inventories accumulated as result of government price support policies, which encouraged rising domestic production, while mills favored cheaper imported cotton. * The USDA sees Chinese cotton imports falling to a 13-year low over the 2015-16 season.
On other hand the European economy was also struggling due to USD gaining strength against Euro. The retailers in return started reducing orders and asking for discounts on garments. The Indian Industry was not prepared for such sudden changes in global scenario.
* State cotton inventories are estimated at 11m tons, and a recent round of auctions had no success in attracting buying interest
A large number of Indian spinners were participating and visiting during the recent yarn exhibition at Shanghai from 13th to 15th Oct. Most of the Chinese buyers used this opportunity to negotiate yarn at lower prices and o set losses which they had su ered due to high prices of yarns in past imports.
* China may be forced to lower the price to deplete the huge cotton reserve.
International Market: * Bangladesh to set up Textile Park in Gujarat, India * Polyester spun prices have rebounded in September in Pakistan, o ering larger margins to spinners, whereas Indian competitors were experiencing a rather opposite situation * Spandex prices have been stabilized in China, mostly due to a reduction of operating rates amid low demand level and very high inventories. Pakistan: Pakistan has imposed 10% additional duty on yarn imported from India. Duty on yarn is now 15% import from anywhere and ERF 3.5% and LTF on Spinning and Ginning 5% from 1st November. Last weekend, the seed cotton price shot to this season’s high of Rs 5,500/maund in local markets as suppliers, fearing a massive production fall this year, held up the supply of cotton. The short supply forced buyers into panic buying at higher prices. Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association has estimated current season’s production at 12 million bales as compared to 14.87 million bales last year, foreseeing a decline of nearly 20 % on yearly basis. The Pak Government has projected cotton production at 13.3 million bales (of 170 kilogram each). Besides a massive attack by white y, rainfalls and oods have ruined hundreds of thousands of bales in di erent parts of the country, he added. Vietnam: Doan Duy Khuong, Vice-Chairman, Vietnam Chamber
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* The lack of buying was tied to the high prices demanded at auction, as a result of government reluctance to ood markets with cheap cotton, threatening prices for farmers.
* Reinhart has reported that China was seeing a shortage in good quality cotton. But there may be some good news for Chinese industry, as the government recently announced that it would expand a tranche of so-called “Chinese quantitative easing,” by allowing lenders to use loans from local governments as collateral in order to borrow cheaply from the central government, targeting the funds at small and agricultural businesses. Such a move could be bene cial for mills and garment factories.
USDA: Global Cotton Stocks to Decline in 2015/16:The latest U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) cotton projections for 2015/16 indicate that world cotton stocks are expected to decrease 4 % from last season’s record to 107 million bales. The global stock decline would be the rst in 6 years; the recent dramatic stock buildup resulted from policies in China that supported domestic cotton prices above world prices. With new policies in place to limit raw cotton imports in 2015/16, stocks in China are forecast to decrease 4 %—the rst reduction there in 5 seasons. However, China’s stocks remain at an extremely high 65.3 million bales, or nearly 2 years’ worth of cotton mill use. Meanwhile, stocks outside of China have seen relatively modest changes. As recently as 2010/11, India was the single largest stockholder, with 11.5 million bales. In 2015/16, stocks in India are projected to rise slightly to 13.5 million bales, or about 13 % of global stocks, compared with China’s share of 61 percent. U.S. stocks contribute 3 % of the total, while stocks in the rest of the world account
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October 2015
for 23 %.
ICAC: Stable World Cotton Trade Expected in 2015/16 World cotton imports are projected to remain unchanged at 7.6 million tons in 2015/16. While China is likely to remain the world’s largest importer in 2015/16, its imports are forecast to fall by 12% to 1.6 million tons. This represents 30% of its peak volume of imports in 2011/12. In 2015, the Chinese government restricted imports to the minimum volume required by the World Trade Organization to encourage mills to purchase domestic cotton. In July and August 2015, it sold nearly 60,000 tons from its reserve, but still holds 11 million tons. Given the large volume of production and reserves, imports are likely to be restricted again in 2016. Meanwhile, imports by other countries are expected to grow 4% to 5.8 million tons. Imports in Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Indonesia, the next three largest importing countries, are all projected to grow in 2015/16. Bangladesh imports are forecast to increase 1% to 972,000 tons while Vietnam’s imports are forecast up 2% to 956,000 tons. After decreasing in 2013/14, Indonesia’s imports recovered 13% to 735,000 tons in 2014/15, and are expected to increase 6% to 782,000 tons in 2015/16. The United States is forecast to lead in export volume, although its exports are projected down 9% to 2.2 million tons due to a smaller volume of production in 2015/16. After declining 48% in 2014/15, India’s exports may recover 34% to 1.2 million tons. Exports in the next three largest exporting countries are likely to decrease due to reductions in their exportable surplus. Brazil’s exports are forecast down 10% to 766,000 tons, Uzbekistan’s down 5% to 565,000 tons and Australia’s down 10% to 467,000 tons. World cotton area is projected to fall 7% to 31.1 million hectares in 2015/16 due to signi cantly lower cotton prices in 2014/15. As a result, world cotton production is expected to fall by 9% to 23.8 million tons. India’s cotton area is estimated down 5% to 11.6 million hectares, and production down 2% to 6.4 million tons. China’s cotton production is set to decline by 16% to 5.4 million tons due to a 12% reduction in area and a 5% decrease in the average yield as
ICE COTTON ICE Cotton is locked in sideways and choppy 57-68 range since months. Time spent in forming base gives a directional bias that Cotton is bottoming out and may enter Bull Market again. Con rmation of directional bull market comes when it is able to move past hurdle of 68 areas. Similarly continuation of Bear Market is con rmed below 57 areas. Till the time breakout or breakdown comes, Traders can sell closer to 68 with stops and buy closer to 57 with stops for short to medium term. Key Supports 60.97-58.4857.05-54.97, Key Resistances 65.03-68.30-70.30-71.50.
October 2015
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a result of unfavorable weather. After a 24% expansion in 2014/15, cotton area in the United States has receded 13% to 3.3 million hectares with production declining 11% to 3.2 million tons. Pakistan’s production is projected down 11% to 2.1 million. World cotton consumption could grow 2% in 2015/16 to 25 million tons with consumption growth remaining at or slowing in many countries compared with last season. Consumption in China, the largest cotton consuming country, is expected to remain at in 2015/16 at 7.7 million tons. India’s consumption growth is expected to slow to 3%, reaching 5.6 million tons, while Pakistan’s consumption growth remains steady at 2%, reaching 2.6 million tons.
Government Reports: Bangladesh has proposed the Indian government to set up a textile park in Gujarat state. Bangladesh has zeroed in on Kadi near Ahmedabad for the project which involves an initial investment of Rs 240-300 crore. To begin with, the park will have spinning units with cumulative capacity of 1 lakh spindles. Bangladesh has sought around 100 acres of land from the state government for the project. Last month, a high level trade delegation comprising representatives of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry, Bangladesh Cotton Association and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association visited Gujarat. These apex trade bodies have now approached the state government with a proposal to set up a textile park. Globally, Bangladesh is among the top garment manufacturing and exporting countries. However, it has to bank on India, especially Gujarat, for cotton and yarn. Gujarat has aggressive textile policy with incentives for spinning activities. Availability of power and raw material (cotton) is attracting many companies to set up their spinning units in the state. Bangladesh imports close to 55 lakh bales (one bale weighs 170 kg) annually, of which 70% is accounted by India, while Gujarat has the largest share in cotton exported to Bangladesh.
MCX COTTON Buy on dips was suggested closest to 15700 in last newsletter, MCX Cotton turned up from 15630. MCX Cotton remains sideways but lot more volatile and choppy as compared to ICE Cotton. 16600 areas o ering sti resistances as of now. Sharp upmove in MCX expected only above 16600 hurdle. Bias still remains positive and Cotton looks buy on dips closest to 15600 areas. Traders can go short in MCX Cotton only below 15600. Key Supports 15630-15170-14670-14360-13970, Key Resistances 16610-16890-17250-17550-18200.
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SHOW CALENDAR
November 2015 16-18 5-6
Nonwovens Innovation Academy Place : Leeds, UK info: www.edana.org
INDIATEX Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.textileassociationindia.com
April 2016
10-11
Turkish Nonwovens Symposium Place : Istanbul info: www.edana.org
16-17
ITF â&#x20AC;&#x201C; DUBAI Place : Dubai/ UAE info: www.internationaltextilefair.com
16-17
Intex South Asia 2015 Place : Colombo/ Sri Lanka info: www.intexfair.com
21-23
TECHNOTEX 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India info: www.technotexindia.in
12-19
ITMA 2015 Place : Milan/ Italy info: www.itma.com
December 2015
May 2016 6-8
SCREEN PRINT INDIA 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India info : spi2016.screenprintindia.com
12-14
ITF MUMBAI Place : Mumbai/ India info: www.internationaltextilefair.com
14-17
YFA TRADE SHOW 2015 Place : Okhla/ New Delhi info: www.yfatradeshow.com
17-19
ITMACH BHIWANDI - 2015 Place : Bhiwandi / Thane info : www.itm ach.com
31st May2 june
Hometex 2016 Place : Banglore/ India info: www.homtex.in
18-19
Textile Trade Fair in Jetpur Place : Jetpur/ Gujarat info: rotaryjetpur@gmail.com
2-4
NONWOVEN TECH ASIA Place : Mumbai/India info: www.nonwoventechasia.com
June 2016
January 2015 22-25
UDYOG 2016 Place : Surat/ Gujarat info : www.udyog.sgcci.in
July 2016 1-3
HGH INDIA 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India info : www.hghindia.com
TEMTECH Place: Bhilwara/ Rajasthan info: www.temtech.in
26-28
Fashion Connect Place : Banglore/ India info: www.fashionconnect.co.in
Feb 2016 7-9
October 2016
March 2016 4-6
F & A show Place : Banglore/ India info: www.fnashow.in
21-25
10-12
Colombo International Yarn & Fabric Show Place : Colombo/ Sri Lanka info: http://www.cems-yarnandfabric.com/cifs/
December 2016
42
3-8
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016 Place : Shanghai/ China info : www.itmaasia.com
INDIA ITME 2016 Place: Mumbai/ India info: www.india-itme.com
www.textilevaluechain.com
October 2015
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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION
Discover Markets, Find New Customers@ITMACH Come to ITMACH Bhiwandi Show Meet Machinery Manufacturers, Industry, Investors and Customers. Discuss business and network. Discover trends in technology, investment and market opportunities.
SPACE BOOKING Arvind Semlani: Cell: +91 9833977743 Email: arvind@textileexcellence.com
CHINA Mr. Cong Zheng China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) Tel: +86 10 85229334 | 58221177-62 | Email: cz@ctma.net
K S Farid: Cell: +91 9869185102 Email: farid@textileexcellence.com
Supporting Partners: Media Partners:
Ms. Emily Yao RITEX international Exhibition (Beijing) Co., Ltd. Mobile: +86-13699259487 | 18911032867 QQ: 2245873206 | Email: emily_yyn@163.com
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