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EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Marketing Executive Graphic Designer

: : : :

Ms. Jigna Shah Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Ms. Nishi Patel Mr. Anant A. Jogale

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda Mr. Manohar Samuel Mr. Shailendra Pandey Mr. Ajay Sharma Mr. Avinash Mayekar Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Mr. R.D. Udeshi

: : : : : :

City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Consulting Editor President, Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. : President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd.

EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : Dr. Ela Dedhia : Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Mr. R.M. Shankar :

HOD knitting, SASMIRA Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Professor, Dean ICT Asst. Director, ATIRA

CONTENT

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.

information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

September 2018 ISSUE

COVER STORY

NEWS

15- Weaving Sector in India by Sanjay Arora, Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

22- COTTON USA 36- SCREEN O TEX 46- ASSOCIATION: CITI 47- ASSOCIATION: CAI

19- Advancements in Fabric Weaving Technologies 20- SUSTAINABLE FIBRE: Clothing from Coolmax Fibers by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra 23- TECHNICAL ARTICLE: Ecofriendly processing of Cotton by Professors of DKTE College

EVENT UPDATE 44- BTRA 45- YARN EXPO 2018 : SURAT 47- SHOW CALENDAR

28- GLOBAL FOCUS: China ruling internet supremacy? By Arvind Sinha

49- INTERVIEW: Mr. Sasi Kumar and Mr. N.R. Balachandra , SMARTEXT SOLUTIONS

32- TECHNICAL TEXTILES: Geo Synthetics and its Application by RM Sankar, ATIRA MARKET REPORT

37- China Trebles cotton yarn import from India by TEXTILE BEACON 38- Global Textile Pricing Trend in August by TEXTILE BEACON 39- SURAT REPORT

BRAND FOCUS 41- SAVIO 42- TENCEL

September 2018

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Advertiser Index BBack Page: Raymond Back Inside: Liva Front Inside: Raysil Page 3: Yarn Expo 2018 – Shanghai Page 4: Sanjay Plastic Page 5: SGS Innovations Page 6: SKBS Page 7: LRT Page 8: International Sourcing Expo Page 9: PICANOL Page 10: SITEX 2019 Page 11: Parekh Agencies

Page 12: ITMA ASIA Page 22: Kenny Fabrics Page 41: Xtextile Page 51: DN Associate Page 52: GTTES Page 53: Truetzschler Page 54: Amith Garments Page 55: Oerlikon Textile Page 56: ATE Page 57: Sangam Group Page 58: SAVIO

13

EDITORIAL

CHANGING DYNAMICS OF INDUSTRY VALUE CHAIN everything ‘‘ When seems like it’s falling apart that’s when god is putting things together just the way he wants it.

’’

Cotton industry will change its dynamics with the recent MOU between Cotton Association of India and Bombay Stock Exchange, objective being price discovery and managing risk of entire cotton value chain con tuating, due to USD. Few Spinning mills are struggling for their tax rebate, policy money from government. Few Gujarat Mills are planning to move up the value chain, given by governments. South/ Maharashtra spinning mills are Branding, re Power-loom sector urging government to uniform the yarn prices at ! run the power-loom mills. Uniformity and domination of spinning segment needs to be controlled by the authority of weaving segment to safeguard the trade. Garment sector is believed to have higher margin in entire value " salers & competing and surviving in international market due to loop hole in FTA viz Duty Free entry of Bangladesh garments & merchandise where even China is taking undue advantage thru the gateway of Bangladesh. Making a fashionable, trendy garment is not enough to survive in the business. Dynamics of selling garments are changing. Garments selling now not only through traditional retail store in our respective localities; but now organized retail chain stores, e-commerce, social media, smart phones, selling from Technical Textiles is emerging in India with active initiative, training, interactive workshops, seminars done by respective sector’s Center of Excellence. Being the industry contributors, it is our responsibility to add value to industry even in smallest possible way. Each single contribution in a positive way is important to grow the industry. Wish you Productive Festive Season..!!!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

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September 2018

COVER STORY

WEAVING SECTOR IN INDIA Textile industry plays a major role in the Indian economy. It contributes 14% to industrial production and 4% to GDP. With over 45 million people involved, it is one of the largest source of employment generation in the country. The textile industry accounts for nearly 15% of India’s total exports. Indian weaving industry has traditionally been one of the most thriving sectors for mass employment. Abundant supply of raw materials and availability of cheap labor have been major contributor to its success. India is the only country that still creates hand-made fabrics and is able to maintain its cultural heritage. The world has lost the hand-weaving and loom process, along with the natural and organic processes of fabric manufacturing. Mill-made fabrics largely dominate fashion markets, with China as the biggest example. This article talks about the existing scenario of weaving industry in India in terms of installed capacities, production volumes and fabric qualities being manufactured in India. Furthermore, it gives an overview of major weaving clusters across the country, challenges faced by the industry and the measures to overcome the same.

West Bengal

3,516

4,634

Haryana

1,602

227

Punjab

1,171

1,545

Kerala

1,030

3272

Rajasthan

957

3,120

Total

381,043

68,442

$ ' *! + <

Production of woven fabric stood at 48,844 Million Square meters in 2017-18. The same has grown at a CAGR of 1% since 2012-13. Powerloom sector dominated the woven fabric production in India, accounting for 78% share followed by Handloom (16%), Mill sector (4%) and Khadi, wool & silk (2%). Figure 2: Production of woven fabric in India (Values in million square meters)

Figure 3: Breakup of woven fabric production in India

Weaving sector of India: An overview India’s weaving sector comprises of three distinct sectors viz. organized mills, power loom and handloom sector. India have an installed capacity of ~68,000 looms (shuttle-looms-67%, shuttle-less-33%), 2.52 Million power loom 2.38 Million handloom. Approximately, 95% of the weaving sector in India is un-organized in nature. Decentralized power-loom and hosiery sector contributes ~85% of total fabric production. Processing segment is dominated by large number of independent, small-scale enterprises i.e. ~95% standalone units. There are about 3.8 Lakh weaving mills across India with majority of the mills situated in Maharashtra (39%), followed by Tamil Nadu (23%) and Uttar Pradesh (15%). Figure 1: State-wise installed capacity in weaving sector

State

No. of weaving mills

No. of Looms

Maharashtra

149,649

13,971

Tamil Nadu

89,493

5,836

Uttar Pradesh

59,047

5,920

Gujarat

35,012

20,407

Karnataka

18,569

609

Andhra Pradesh 12,637

1129

Madhya Pradesh

4,469

September 2018

8,360

(2017-18) $ ' *! + < As per International Textile Manufacturers Federation

(ITMF) estimates, there are about 2.8 million looms in-

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COVER STORY stalled globally, out of which 54% are shuttle-less. Installed capacity of shuttle-less looms has been rising continuously since 2000 (CAGR of 5%). Asia has the largest number of shuttle-less looms with 78% share, followed by Europe (12%) America (9%) and Africa (1%). India has 2% share in global shuttle-less looms installed capacity. China has the largest capacity of shuttle-less looms i.e. 8.43 Lakh and 56% share, while India is positioned at 11 number with 22,821 looms. Top ten countries account for ~85% share of global shuttle-less loom capacity. India have a tough competition from other Asian countries like Thailand, Indonesia, Pakistan and Bangladesh which have much larger capacities as compared to India.

has witnessed marginal growth of 0.3%. Figure 5: Production of woven fabric in India in Power loom sector (Values in mn. sq. m.)

Handloom sector: Handloom weaving constitutes one of

Sector-wise production of woven fabric Mill sector (organized): Mill sector of India has intrinsic strengths in terms of economies of scale, higher productivity, superior technology, better technical and skilled man power and integrated working, and has the capability to supply high value added, superior quality goods both for domestic and overseas markets. The total production of woven fabric in mill sector stood at 2,148 mn. sq. m. in 2017-18, accounting for 3% of the total woven fabric production in India. Production of woven fabric in mill sector is dominated by cotton with a share of 61%. This is followed by blended fabric with a share of 34% and man-made fabric with a share of 5%. Over last six years, the production has gone down at a CAGR of 2%. Figure 4: Production of woven fabric in India in Mill sector (Values in mn. Sq. m.)

the richest and most vibrant aspects of the Indian cultural heritage. In 2017-18, handloom industry produced 7,990 mn. Sq. m. of fabric which accounted for 12% of the total woven fabric production in the country. The production of hand woven fabric has grown at a CAGR of 3% in last 6 years. Production of woven fabric in handloom sector is dominated by cotton with a share of 90%. This is followed by man-made fabric with a share of 8% and blended fabric with a share of 2%. Figure 6: Production of woven fabric in India in Handloom sector (Values in mn. sq. m.)

Weaving clusters across India

Power loom sector: The power loom industry has traditionally been one of the cornerstones of the Indian economy in terms of fabric production and employment. The technology level of this sector varies from obsolete plain loom to high tech shuttle less looms. The readymade garments and home textile sectors are heavily dependent on the power loom sector to meet their fabric requirement. With a production 38,707 mn.sq. m of fabric, power loom sector accounts for 58% of the total woven fabric production. Production of woven fabric in power loom sector is dominated by cotton with a share of 41%. This is followed by man-made fabric with a share of 35% and blended fabric with a share of 23%. Over last six years, the production

16

Textile and apparel manufacturing is spread across India largely in cluster format, mostly in the form of natural clusters. There are more than 50 weaving clusters in India accounting for majority of the fabric production in India. Gujarat, Maharashtra and Punjab are most important polyester based woven fabric clusters. Surat in Gujarat is

= >@@JQ Top 9 states accounts for about 90% of the total looms Z $ "

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September 2018

COVER STORY follows: 1. Gujarat: Gujarat houses 47 composite mills and ~35,000 weaving units. Having an installed capacity of ~20,000 looms, Gujarat accounts for ~30% share in India’s total installed loom capacity. Out of the total loomage, shuttle looms accounts for 60% share while shuttle-less looms have a share of 40%. Ahmedabad and Surat are the main weaving clusters in Gujarat. Mill sector of Gujarat produced about 620 Million Sq. m. of woven fabric during 2016-17.

Bhiwandi, Thane

30-40

Cotton, MMF and blends

Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Airjet

Nashik

20-30

Cotton, polyester, nylon

Shuttle

Ichalkaranji, 15-20 Kohlapur

Cotton, P/V, P/C

Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Airjet

Sangli

Cotton, P/V, P/C blends

Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Airjet

Aurangabad 10-12

Cotton and cotton blends

Shuttle

Solapur

Cotton

Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier

10-15

8-10

Figure 7: Weaving clusters in Gujarat

Name of Cluster

Avg. no. of looms

Fabric Type

Loom Type

Ahmedabad 20-30

Denim, cot- Shuttle, Airjet, ton, polyes- Rapier, Waterjet ter

Surat

Cotton, pol- Projectile, Airjet, yester Rapier, Waterjet

15-25

2. Maharashtra: Maharashtra houses about 36 composite mills and ~1.5 Lakh weaving units. Having an installed capacity of ~14,000 looms, Gujarat accounts for ~20% share in India’s total installed loom capacity. Out of the total loom age, shuttle looms accounts for 73% share while shuttle-less looms have a share of 27%. Major weaving clusters include Tarapur, Mumbai, Bhiwandi, Nashik and Ichalkaranji. Mumbai’s organized fabric sector produced about 137 Million Sq. m. of woven fabric during 201617. Figure 8: Weaving clusters in Maharashtra

Name of Cluster

Avg. no. of looms

Fabric Type

Tarapur, Palgarh

45-55

Cotton, MMF, Shuttle, Airjet blends

Mumbai (Bhainder, Bhandup)

40-45

Cotton, wool & blends

September 2018

Loom Type

Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Airjet

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3.Tamil Nadu: There are about 48 composite mills, ~90,000 weaving units and ~5,800 looms in Tamil Nadu. Mill sector fabric production stood at 162 Sq.Mtr. In 2016-17. The state holds ~9% share in India’s total installed looms capacity. Tamil Nadu is known as the largest producer of cotton yarn and for availability of abundant good quality cotton. Madurai, Karur, Salem, Dindigul and Erode are the main weaving clusters based in Tamil Nadu. Figure 9: Weaving clusters in Tamil Nadu Name of Cluster

Avg. no. of looms

Fabric Type

Loom Type

Madurai

20-30

Cotton

Shuttle

Karur

5-10

Cotton

Shuttle, Rapier, Airjet

Salem

5-10

Cotton

Shuttle

Dindigul

2-5

Cotton

Shuttle

Erode

1-5

Cotton, Viscose

Rapier, Airjet

4. Uttar Pradesh: The state known for its Chikankari embroidery and brocade fabrics, contributes to 9% share in total installed loom capacity of India. Housing weaving units over ~60,000 and ~6,000 looms, the city produced around 4 Mn. Sq.Mtr. Fabric in the mill-sector (2016-17). About 90% of the looms are shuttle looms in Uttar Pradesh. By and large, weaving is concentrated in

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COVER STORY Varanasi and Meerut cities. Varanasi is known throughout India for pro and Banarasi saris. Figure 10: Weaving clusters in Uttar Pradesh

Name of Cluster

Avg. no. of looms

Fabric Type

Loom Type

Varanasi

2-10

Cotton, Silk, MMF

Shuttle, Rapier

Meerut

10-12

Cotton

Shuttle, Rapier, Airjet

5. Madhya Pradesh: Famous for Chanderi fabrics, the state contributes to about 7% share in India’s total loom age. It has an installed capacity of 16 composite mills, ~8,300 weaving units and ~4500 Looms. Total fabric production stood at 233 Mn. Sq.Mtr. in Madhya Pradesh. Fabric production is scattered in the cities of Indore, Ujjain and Burhanpur and is largely cotton focused. Ratio of Shuttle to shuttle-less looms is 70:30. 6. Other Major Clusters Other weaving clusters of India include Rajasthan, Punjab, Karnataka and Haryana. These states together accounts for ~8% share of the country’s total installed loom capacity. Punjab and Haryana houses the largest woolen fabrics manufacturers, while Karnataka is known for manufacturing of silk and Man-made fabrics. Figure 11: Other major weaving clusters in India

State

Name of Cluster

Avg. no. of looms

Fabric Type

Loom Type

Rajasthan Jaipur

5-15

Cotton and blends

Shuttle

Rajasthan Bhilwara

7-12

Cotton, MMF, denim, P/V

Shuttle, Rapier, Projectile, Airjet

Punjab

Ludhiana 10-20

Wool, cotton, MMF

Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier

Punjab

Amritsar

Wool, MMF

Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier

18

10-15

Karnataka

Bengaluru

12-20

Silk, MMF, Cotton & blends

Shuttle

Karnataka

Belgaum

10-20

Cotton and blends

Shuttle

Haryana

Panipat

10-20

Wool, cotton and blends

Shuttle, Projectile and Rapier

Indian weaving industry has conventionally been one of the most promising sectors providing huge employment. However, challenges like inadequate know-how, low focus on research, innovation in new product development and low technology up gradation poses a threat to the growth potential of this industry. Other than that, low productivity and automation levels also remain one of the biggest woes for the weaving industry. Due to these factors, overall performance of fabric production in India is getting dampened. With more than 90% of the industry unorganized, weaving still remains one of the weakest links of the Indian textile and apparel industry. From technology perspective also, spinning sector in India has always been hailed as being technologically at par with world’s standards. As it has been recognized that the weaving and processing sectors have been lagging behind as compared to Z " undertaken by various stakeholders in order to upgrade and modernize this sector. Major challenges for the Indian weaving industry are discussed below: • Poor technology levels: Though India has one of the largest installed production base in the world, most of the machinery uses old technology with low productivity and quality levels. • Low scale of operations: Global manufacturing powerhouses like China have been putting continuous efforts for achieving large scale manufacturing set-ups. Large scale of operations facilitates production of good quality products at comparatively lower costs. However, India still lags behind in achieving higher economies of scale. • Export compliance: The demand for compliance is growing rapidly in today’s business scenario as the global buyers are now become more conscious towards ethically manufactured products. Indian textile industry lacks proper implementation and management of the compliance norms. Adherence to global norms can be achieved through development and implementation of tools that can help factories certify, monitor and improve universal standards. • Poor skill levels: The overall productivity levels in Indian textile sector, especially in fabric manufacturing, is relatively low as compared to its competing nations

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September 2018

COVER STORY like China, Turkey, etc. The industry needs to improve its focus on training and skill development of the manpower. As a result of the above mentioned issues, quality of fabric produced in India and customer service level lacks the desired standards. Cost of production also goes up due to the poor technology levels and low scale of operations. Achieving manufacturing excellence in existing setup is the need of the hour which would aid in to quality improvement, productivity enhancement and reduction in overall manufacturing costs. Increased focus towards technology up gradation and automation would also help in transforming the landscape of weaving industry. India also needs to expand its weaving capacity by scaling up operations. Technical and soft skill training and productivity improvement plans should be organized regularly for the manpower so that they are able to produce better. As mentioned by Management thinker Peter Drucker, what cannot be measured, cannot be improved. Hence, focus should be towards building a strong Quality Management

System (QMS) to measure and monitor Customer service Z Z

and make India more competitive in the global textile and apparel market in the long run.

Mr. Sanjay Arora Business Director Wazir Advisors Private Limited

ADVANCEMENTS IN FABRIC WEAVING TECHNOLOGIES The emphasis on productivity and quality has developed the weaving technology very much and as a result the working hours required to weave fabric from loom have been reduced from about 20 to 0.25 during the last 125 years, and in the last 50 years there has been a reduction of 95% inoperative hours per standard unit produced. Weaving technologies – then and now The weaving is a process of formation of fabric with interlacement of two or more sets of yarns using a stable machine called loom. It is still not certain when the weaving process was introduced to human society. Except for few activities elsewhere, the major developments in textile took place in England. In England, the major shift from agriculture to woolen industry came in the 14th century. During all these years and a few hundred years after the 14th century, the cloth was produced on hand-looms ] Z ^_`` { | weft to be inserted more rapidly. Edmund Cart Wright, an English clergyman, invented a so-called power loom which could be operated from a single point by two strong men. Fortunately, steam power was available by 1765. Soon power looms were driven by steam and most of the wooden parts were replaced with iron. These looms then were stopped every few minutes in order to replace the empty weft pirns or cop in the shuttle and this limited the number of looms, a weaver could operate to about four. James Northrop, an English man invented an automatic

September 2018

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weft transfer system which replaced the weft pirn in the shuttle without slowing or stopping the loom in 1889. Similar developments took place elsewhere also, Ruti, a major loom maker of Switzerland manufactured automatic bobbin changing Northrop loom in 1898. After World } ZZ ! overcome increasing labor costs in Western countries. Limitations of Shuttle Looms Despite the relatively high ! ing, the productivity of these machines will continue to be limited as long as their fundamental constructions involved the use of shuttle propulsion. It is known that the power required for picking is proportional to the cube of the loom speed. If the loom speed is increased from 200 to 300 picks per minute, the power requirement would increase by a factor of (3/2) 3 i.e. 3.4 times approximately. Was the shuttle loom technology transmission necessary? The emphasis on productivity and quality has developed the weaving technology very much and as a result the working hours required to weave fabric from loom have been reduced from about 20 to 0.25 during the last 125 years, and in the last 50 years there has been a reduction of 95% inoperative hours per standard unit produced. Majority of the developments are taking place on the shuttleless looms in the following directions: • To increase the productivity of the loom. + "

19

COVER STORY fabric. • To reduce the downtime for changing a style, etc. • Application of electronic control mechanisms to increase automation • Development of accessories such as dobby, jacquards, etc. In addition to these, the newer looms are simple in design, the motions are more reliable, consumes less energy and have a lower maintenance cost. Disadvantages of Shuttle Looms • Greater strain imposed on the picking mechanism, thus rendering it liable to frequent failure. • The greater amount of noise and vibration. • Because of superior energy in a shuttle, greater strain is again imposed on the checking mechanism. + ! control and there will be a greater possibility of its ejection from the loom. The dynamic problems created by the picking and checking mechanism and the inherent process of pirn winding for shuttle looms had encouraged the loom makers to develop alternative means of weft insertion in which heavy shuttle is not projected forwards and backward across the width of the loom. It is customary to refer these looms as shuttleless looms. The various shuttleless looms that have been developed  Â‚ ous groups. • Projectile Looms • Rapier Looms

• Fluid Jet Looms • Multiphase Looms Advantages of Shuttleless Weaving Technology The Shuttleless weaving is becoming more and more popular due to the following advantages compared to conventional looms;• High labor and machine productivity due to high speed and wider width of looms. • Reduced labor cost due to a higher allocation of looms and productivity. • Defect-free cloth for longer length. • Better environment due to low noise level. • Pirn winding process is eliminated • Less value loss of fabrics. • Low consumption of stores and spares. • Less space requirement per metre of cloth. • More colors in weft direction (up to 12) by Pick and Pick method. • Wider width fabrics and multi-width fabrics can be ƒ • Easily adaptable to market trends. „

` • Due to less beam changes lower downtime and lesser wastages. • Less dependency on labor skill. • Higher design capabilities due to microprocessor and electronic controls. • Easy maintenance and less workload for Jobbers. • Lesser accidents.

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

CLOTHING FROM COOLMAX FIBRES

Dr. N.N.Mahapatra President, SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

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The 20th century heralded new understanding in chem " † J expectations created. Technologies leapt ahead in all areas of manufacturing and processing. The global consumption of cotton increased, but the market share of + and also the weaknesses. By the start of 21st century, cot ‡ ˆ heard about Polyester, Polyproplene , Nylon , Acrylic ,Ly + | „ of Cool max, Xstatic, PCM s, Thermocules, Lycrapower , Tyvek , Supplex or Nanosheres ? these are products that are currently on the market, or on the way. < $ ‰ ^Š‹Œ Z � -

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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE ment away from the body. According to the manufacturers .Coolmax makes sweat a non-issue. The new version < Ž " superior moisture management , a semi-matte luster and low –pill properties .

Clothing made from Coolmax is primarily intended to be worn during exertion - sweat can evaporate quickly so the wearer is kept dry. Other useful properties include fast drying and resistance to fading , shrinking and wrinkling . Additionally, coolmax is used as a mattress cover.

Coolmax is a registered trademark of the manufacturer , INVISTA Ltd ( a business unit of Du Pont .)

In 2000-01 , Nahar Exports Ltd ,Ludhiana was the only authorized coolmax spinner in India from Dupont of U .S A. Later on Oswal Woollen Mills Ltd ,Ludhiana has started manufacturing Coolmax Yarn.

Coolmax is the original performance fabric that has been helping push harder and longer but is now being discovered for the cool comfort it brings to everyday < that , depending on people need , can be applied to or found in a whole new range of clothing styles – from moderate and high – intensity performance apparel to everyday casual wear . So consumers get the level of performance they need to stay cool and comfortable in any situation . Consumers looking for casual , comfortable garments will be happy with the way coolmax keeps them cool and + gives clothes a natural feel , with an added touch of performance that keeps them comfortable. Consumers who demand enhanced performance from their ap keeps them cooler than other fabrics .Coolmax moves perspiration away from the body to the fabrics outer surface , where it can evaporate quickly .This thermo " comfortable. Extreme atheletes know what to look for in a performance fabric and except nothing less than the best , coolmax provides. Coolmax has proven to reduce skin temperature , lower heart rates during exercise and " management properties . Coolmax is the brand name of a series of fabrics designed to wick moisture away from the skin. The fabrics � “ breathability “ < ‘ Z tains four perspiration tunnels . It can repel the mois ! tion starts which has very excellent air permeability . Clothes are easy to wash and dry , not shrink, change shapes , keep bad odors or incur fungus . Mostly used for T-shirts , vests , sportswear , socks , tight golf shirts , underwear and body wear etc. Coolmax R blend with cotton , it has moisture - absorbing , drain sweat and " socks.

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Types of Coolmax Fibre – Coolmax fabric is the industry leader when it comes to moisture management , and many customers rely on coolmax fabric for their activewear needs. Based on con ] " types. 1. Coolmax everyday fabric .- for consumers looking for casual , comfortable garments where the breathabil 2. Coolmax active fabric. – for consumers who demand enhanced performance from their apparel

+ � " of coolmax helps consumers stay drier and more comfortable . 3. Coolmax extreme fabric .- for extreme athletes who require the excellent moisture management properties of coolmax that are proven to reduce skin temperature , lower heart rates during exercise and maintain hydration. Spinning of Coolmax yarn - It can be spun into 100 % or blends . In 100 % coolmax yarn normally the count used in market is Ne 20/1 , Ne 30 /1 and Ne 40/1 . It is used in sportswear, underwear, dress shirts . Such type of yarn is made in spinning mills in Korea. It is blended with cotton in 60/40 or 50/50 ratio . Fine Cotton Factory was founded in 1997 by Mr Har ‰ @ „ ‰ < + < + “ stay kool “ bre from Dupont and was directed toward uniforms for fast food and retail chains throughout Canada Jiangsu huaqiang textile co ltd, china is manufacturing + " < spinning. T-D986W polyester is designed to improve fabric pilling in 100 % Coolmax Alta performance fabrics. It has a critical polymer recipe to achieve consumer value of pill performance at acceptable mill processing conditions for soft tactility and moisture transport. The other regular T-729 W type is used for regular coolmax perfor Ž +=_‚’ } for Coolmax fabrics. Adjustment in spinning is required to achieve acceptable processing and quality in yarn and

21

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE fabric.

- Coolmax fab $ to be processed much like regular polyester . Same dyes @ chemicals is required to optimize results. The most popular fabric which is processed is Coolmax/ Z prior to scouring and dyeing to stabilize the fabric. Temperature is 180 –190 deg c. for 30 sec. Overfeed 10-15 %.

< < “ ^‹‚=^Š‚ recovery properties. For whites and pastel shades, it is preferable to slit and heat set prior to dyeing and then frame dry. Finishing of coolmax fabrics is same as other polyester fabrics. Coolmax fabrics are slowly gaining importance in textile industries Raymonds and RSWM has started making coolmax fabrics.

NEWS COTTON USA INNOVATES AT PREMIĂˆRE VISION WITH “WHAT’S NEW IN COTTON™â€? One year after its launch of WHAT’S NEW IN COTTON™ at Première Vision in Paris, Cotton Council International (CCI), will once again showcase an array of U.S. cotton-rich apparel created with innovative technology at its booth in Hall 6, 6D62 at Première Vision from 19-21 September. WHAT’S NEW IN COTTON™ at Première Vision will show " • and retailers product opportunities that can drive sales growth. CCI, Cotton Incorporated and Supima will exhibit jointly in one large cotton pavilion to display innovation in technologies, fabric blends, performance, design and fashion. “Since introducing our WHAT’S NEW IN COTTON™ initiative last Fall, we’ve teamed up with more than 12 partners from across the world to present textile innovations that

inspire new uses of U.S. cotton,â€? CCI Executive Director Bruce Atherley said. Past innovations have included workout wear that promotes faster recovery times, all-natural odor control towels and bed linens and a new technology to produce a softer cotton. All these innovations feature U.S. cottonrich fabrics. “You will want to come visit our booth at Première Vision to see the latest innovations in U.S. cotton, as well as to learn how joining our COTTON USA™ licensing program can help your company capitalize on U.S. cotton’s sales ˜ ÂŽ A recent global study indicated the COTTON USA™ Mark is preferred by a 4-1 margin over a 100% cotton label. Furthermore, nearly 2/3 of consumers said they would be willing to pay more money for products with the Mark.

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE

ECOFRIENDLY PROCESSING OF COTTON ABSTRACT: - Textile industry is the largest one next to agricultural in the country where most of the people are employed. Wet processing of cotton required high quantity of water and energy for desizing, scoring and bleaching process. Conventionally these processes are carried by using harsh chemical which is give water pollution. In order to control water pollution enzyme can be used of processing of cotton. At a same time enzyme required low temperature which is give energy conservation. This study is focused on comparative analysis between conventional desizing with enzyme desizing, alkaline scouring with bio scouring, conventional bleaching with bio bleaching and conventional combine scouring bleaching with bio combine scouring-bleaching. So advantages of bioprocessing can be described in terms of ecology as well as economy. Keywords: - Enzyme, Conventional processing, Bio scouring, Bio bleaching. Introduction < „ < bre is highly hydroscopic also slightly coloured .In further processing cotton should absorb water to get satisfactory result. At a same time colour of cotton should be white ] ƒ in order to get absorbency and whiteness scouring and bleaching process become important one. [1] Traditionally scouring of cotton was carried out by using caustic soda and sodium carbonate. Both this chemical having high pH and increase load on ETP and because of higher concentration of alkali tenacity of cotton decrease. Bleaching of cotton also required high alkaline pH and high concentration of H2O2 reduces tenacity of cotton. To reduce the water pollution in textile wet processing, we have to reduce the use of such high concentrate chemical. Also such chemical are available in market which does " * which can be used in wet processing is enzyme. Use of enzyme in wet processing reduces the water pollution. Also required temperature is low as comparative to conventional processes hence use of energy is also low. Enzyme " › ent generation.If bio-scouring and bio-bleaching could be combined into one process, large amounts of water, energy, time and auxiliary agents would be saved. Enzyme desizing Conventionally desizing is done by using hydrochloric acid or oxidizing agent. These chemicals reduce the strength

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of basic fabric by attack on starch as well as cellulose. Enzyme is the one option to avoid reduction in tensile strength of fabric [2]. Fabric is padded through solution containing 1 gpl amylase and 0.5 gpl sodium chloride at 400C. For this process required pH is acidic (5.5). Fabric is padded by using padding mangle (100% expression) and batched for 24 hour at ambient temperature. The Desized fabric washed twice with hot water and once with cold water and then dried [3]. Desizing by exhaust method is also possible where fabric is treated with 1gp amylases enzyme at 700C for 60 min with acidic pH (5.5) [4]. Enzyme scouring Cotton could not absorb water during processing within >` Q ‚ œ=^ � their structure. Removal of oil fat and waxes become so important to get satisfactory results in further processing. Conventionally scouring of cotton is done by using sodium hydroxide which is highly alkaline in nature. Along with impurities it break the bonds cellulose causes reduction in tensile strength. Use of highly alkaline chemical causes high COD (chemical oxygen demand), BOD (biological oxygen demand) and TDS in wastewater [5]. Conventional scouring process is commonly used in industry but now = " < can be replaced by eco-friendly enzyme scouring process [6]. Fabric is treated with pectinase 5 gpl enzyme at 550C in alkaline pH (8) for 60 min. this give satisfactory results and absorbency is depend on concentration of enzyme. Weight loss is less than the conventional scouring which means no strength loss in fabric [4]. Enzymatic scouring of cotton fabric can be done by using various enzymes like cellulose, lipase, pectinase etc. Whiteness index obtained by the enzyme scouring is 8-10% more as compare to conventional scouring also no loss in tensile strength. Enzyme scouring give less BOD, COD, TDS as compare to conventional process. This method can be used for cotton as well as cotton blends by changing the enzyme [7]. Alkaline pectinase enzyme can be combined with cellulose enzyme to get more absorbency. This process gives more absorbency but decrees the tensile strength of fabric [3]. Advantages of enzyme scouring are less energy required, less water required, low cost of chemical,

" “ › Ž can be combined with peroxide bleaching which reduce the cost of process [6] [8] [9]. Enzyme Bleaching H2O2 is mostly used as bleaching agent in bleaching of natural, synthetic as well as blends of textile material. Mostly pH of H2O2 bleaching is 11.5 which is highly alkaline at a

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE same time temperature required is also about 90oC [10]. In order to save water and energy bleaching can be carried out by using glucose oxidase enzyme which is used as alone or can be combined with peroxidases also. H2O2 generated from glucose oxidases get combined with peroxidases which give better whiteness index as compare to conventional bleaching agent [11] Desized and scoured fabric were bleached by using glucose oxidase enzyme. The whiteness index is 73% more than scoured fabric. Satisfactory degree of whiteness can be achieved by using glucose oxidase [4]. Enzyme combine scouring-bleaching Use of ecofriendly chemical becomes so important because of increasing cost of water, energy and environ < ž= cellulose/pectinase in the pre-treatment of cotton gives combine desizing and scouring with better results than conventional and individual process. Glucose oxidase enzyme can be combine with other enzyme to get satisfactory result in bleaching [11].One bath bio scouring and bleaching of cotton give better results of absorbency, reduce load ETP and gives less degradation of cotton than alkali scouring and bleaching [12].Combine scouring and bleaching by using scouring enzyme and hydrogen perox " Â&#x;Š + ditionally scouring and bleaching process carried out at the temperature 1200C in higher alkaline pH. It took lots of energy as well as water in further washing process of

› Z energy and water higher alkaline chemical should be replace by ecofriendly chemical. Pectinase enzyme is an alternative to sodium hydroxide in scouring which give same result at low temperature. H2O2 can be replacing by using peroxidases, laccase /mediator or glucose oxidase. Bio-scouring and bio-bleaching can combine in one bath. Fabric is treated with scouring and bleaching enzyme at 650C for 60 min. Increase in temperature of this bath give better degree of whiteness. This process leads to less time, less energy, better results than conventional process [13]. 2. Material and Method 2.1.1 Material 100% cotton well singed fabric was taken for a study with particular are as below mentioned in table 2.1 Table 2.1: Fabric Particular Sr.No

Fabric Particular

Parameter

1

Material

100% cotton fabric

2

Weave

Plane

3

GSM

115

4

EPI

72

5

PPI

72

24

6

Warp count

32

7

Weft count

32

8

Tensile strength

9 Tear Strength 2.1.2 Chemical A chemical were taken for study are mention with their particular in table 2.2 Table 2.2: Chemical used for study S r . Name of chemical No

Grade

Purpose

1

Hydrochloric Acid

LR

Desizing

2

Amylase enzyme

LR

Desizing

3

Sodium Hydroxide

LR

Scouring

4

Sodium Bicarbonate

LR

To adjust pH

5

TRO

Industrial Wetting agent

6

Hydrogen Peroxide

LR

Bleaching

7

Sodium Silicate

LR

Stabilizer

8

Bactosol co ip.liquid

LR

Bioscouring

9

Glucose Oxidase (srl)

LR

Biobleaching

2.2 Experimental method 2.2.1 Conventional desizing:-A well singed 100% cotton fabric was treated with 5 gpl hydrochloric acid at room temperature for 60 min followed by cold wash. The air dried fabric was check for absorbency, weight loss, tensile strength and tear strength. 2.2.2 Enzyme desizing:-A well singed 100% cotton fabric was treated with various concentration (2, 3, 4, 5 gpl) of enzyme. 10gpl common salt and 1 gpl wetting agent added in a bath. Treatment is carried out at 600C for 90 min. followed by cold wash. The air dried fabric was checked for absorbency, weight loss, tensile strength and tear strength 2.2.3 Alkaline scouring:- 100% cotton fabric was treated with 4% sodium hydroxide, 1.5% sodium bicarbonate, 0.1% detergent and 0.1% sequestering agent at 900C for 4 Hour followed by cold wash, hot wash and neutralization. The air dried fabric was checked for absorbency, tensile strength and tear strength 2.2.4 Enzyme scouring:-100% cotton fabric was treated with 2, 3, 4, 5 % of pectinase enzyme at 500C for 2 Hour followed by cold wash and hot wash. The air dried fabric was checked for absorbency, tensile strength and tear strength. 2.2.5 Conventional bleaching: - 100% cotton fabric was treated 1% hydrogen peroxide, 1%stabiliser, 1% sodium carbonate, at 850C for 2 Hour followed by cold wash, hot wash and neutralization. The air dried fabric was checked www.textilevaluechain.com

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE for whiteness index, tensile strength and tear strength. 2.2.6 Enzyme bleaching: -100% cotton fabric was treated with 1, 2, 3, 4 % of glucose oxidase enzyme at 800C for 2 Hour followed by wash and hot wash. The air dried fabric was checked for whiteness index, tensile strength and tear strength. 2.2.7 Conventional combine scouring bleaching: -100% cotton fabricwas treated with1 %hydrogen peroxide, 2% sodium hydroxide, 2% stabilizer and 1% sodium carbonate at 850C for 2 hour followed cold by wash, hot wash and neutralization. The air dried fabric was checked for absorbency, whiteness index, tensile strength and tear strength.

ventional desizing as compared to enzymatic desizing as ` ’ ^ ˆ � � � ! reduction in tensile and tear strength. With increase in � !  �

Â? ! +ˆ¢ÂŽ}ÂŽ > ` Â’ Â’ ÂŁ ` Â’ `Q Fig 3.2.1- Weight loss percentage after desizing

2.2.8 Enzyme combine scouring and bleaching: -A 100% cotton fabric treated by three method as shown in table 2.2.8 Table 2.2.8: Recipe for enzyme combine scouring bleaching Sr. No

Chemical / Parameter

Method A

Method B

Method C

A1

A2

B1

B2

C1

C2

1

Glucose oxidase

3%

4%

----

----

2%

2%

3

Hydrogen peroxide

----

----

3%

4%

3%

4%

2

Pectinase Enzyme

4%

4%

4%

4%

4%

4%

4

Temperature

800C

800C

800C

800C

800C

800C

5

Time

2 Hour

2 Hour

2 Hour

2 Hour

2 Hour

2 Hour

!

!

2.2.9 Testing:- The various fabric physical and chemical properties are characterized as par standard testing method. 1.

Weight loss (AATCC79)

2.

Absorbency (AATCC TM 79)

3.

Whiteness index (AATCC TM 110)

4.

Tensile Strength (ASTM D 5035)

5.

Tear strength (ASTM D 2261)\

3. Result and Discussion 3.1 Introduction:- Here conventional processed sample are compared with enzyme processed sample. The samples were tested for weight loss, absorbency tensile strength, and tear strength. The result were analyzed and discussed as below

3.3 Scouring: -Absorbency of conventional scoured fabric is 1.89 second which is slightly low as compared to enzymatic scouring. As enzyme concentration increases absorbency time decreases in short range. The absorbency achieved by the enzymatic method at 5 gpl enzyme is near about same and also within acceptable limit as shown in ` ` ^ + conventional scouring sample is higher as compare to enzyme treated sample. This is because of degradation of > ` ` Â’ÂŁ J ` ` `Q

3.2 Desizing: - Weight loss after desizing is higher in con-

September 2018

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25

TECHNICAL ARTICLE Fig 3.3.1 Absorbency time in second

# $

"

# $ "

3.4 Bleaching: - Whiteness index of conventional fabric is more as compare than the enzyme bleached sample. As concentration of glucose oxidase increases the whiteness index is also increases but still it is less than the conven ` œ ^ + strength of conventional bleaching and enzyme bleaching + " in tensile and tear strength between conventional bleach � > ` œ ’ ` œ `Q

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3.5 Combine scouring bleaching:-Absorbency time for conventional sample and all enzyme methods sample are near about same. At a same time as concentration increases absorbency time decreases. All enzyme method gives same absorbency as compare to conventional method as shown in The whiteness index for conventional method is neat about 70. Whiteness index in method A for concentration A1 is 41.37 and A2 is 41.87 respectively. This whiteness index is too less and there is no increase in whiteness index in method A. In method B and method C whiteness index increases up to conventional method. Hence pectinase enzyme can be combine with

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE hydrogen peroxide as well as addition of hydrogen peroxide in enzyme bath give same whiteness as conventional ` Â Â’ + in conventional method is less as compare to all enzyme method. This is because of breaking of hydrogen bonds in cellulosic structure due to use of concentrate chemical. Tensile and tear strength in method A remains same

" enzyme concentration on tensile strength. In method B and C as concentration of hydrogen peroxide increases tensile strength decreases slightly but still it is within ac > 3.5.3 and 3.5.4)

% " $ $

CONCLUSION Conventional desizing, scouring, bleaching, and combine scouring bleaching process con be converted to enzymatic process with same result of weight loss, absorbency, tensile strength and tear strength. Here enzyme is ecofriendly in nature hence water pollution can be reduced. In bio scouring temperature required is low as compared to conventional method, 50% of energy can be saved. REFERANCE 1.Prof. S. P. Mishra,Cotton “A Text Book of Fibre Science and Technology�Page 71-87 2.Mahesh sharma“Application of enzyme in textile processing� Colourage, January 1993

Fig 3.5.1 Absorbency after combine scouring bleaching

3.Ali Hebeish , Mohamed Hashem , Nihal Shaker, Mohamed Ramadan, Bahiya El-Sadek,Marwa Abdel Hady “New development for combined bioscouring and bleaching of cotton-based fabrics� Elsevire Carbohydrate Polymers 78 (2009) 961–972 4.TzankoTzanov, Margarita Calafellb, Georg M. Guebitzc, ArturCavaco-Pauloa, “Bio Processing of Cotton Fabric� Journal of Enzyme and Microbial Technology 29 (2001) 357-362 5.N. N. Mahapatra “Use of enzyme in textile processing� Asian Dyer, july 2010, 53 6.M. AzizulHoque, Abu YousufMohamamdAnwarulAzim “Using Enzymes as an Aid of Better and Eco-Friendly Scouring Processing� American Journal of Engineering Research, Volume-5, Issue-6, 167182 7.Prof. S. K. Laga, Miss. Geeta K. Chunari “Bioscouring: An overview� Colourage, April 2015,39 8.A Edvin Sunder, G nalankilli “Bio-scouring� Asin Textile Journal, January 2002

% & $ $

9.A. K. Patra, GauravAgrawal, SumitGarg “ Enzymatic scouring & bleaching compatibility of cotton� The Indian Textile Journal, April 2004/25 10.Ms. Sonia Hossain, Md. oushicUddin “comparave analysis between conventional pretreatmentK and bioprocessing� International Journal of Engineering & Technology vol:11 no:3 11.Klaus Opwis, DierkKnitte, EckhardSchollmeyer “Use of enzyme in pretreatment of cotton� DeutschesTextilforschungszentrum NordWest e.V. Adlerstr. 1, D-47798 Krefeld, Germany 12.Geeta N. sheth, Aparna A. Musale “Single bath bio-scouring and bleaching of cellulosic yarn knitted and woven fabric�, Colourage nov 2015 13.Nina Spicka and Petra Forte Tavcer “New Combined Bio Scouring and Bio Bleaching Process Of Cotton Fabric � Material and Technology 47 (2013) 4, 409-412

% " $ $

Yashovardhan M Indi /Satish Y Patil DKTE’S Textile & Engineering Institute

September 2018

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GLOBAL FOCUS

CHINA RULING INTERNET SUPREMACY ? Technology is the need of hour and serving the technology is equally important, Technology is changing every day, innovations are every day achievement. J • growth of the Internet. From its origins as a small Pentagon program to its status as a global platform that connects more than half of the world’s population and tens of billions of devices, the Internet has long been an American project. Yet today, the United States has ceded leadership in cyberspace to China. China heading to become “cybersuperpower.� Already, more people in China have access to the Internet than in any other country Through domestic regulations, technological innovation, and foreign policy, China aims to build an impregnable cyber defense system, give itself a greater voice in Internet governance, foster more world-class companies, and lead the globe in advanced technologies. China’s continued rise as a cyber-superpower is not guar + = = " cial intelligence, quantum computing, robotics, and other ambitious technologies may well fail. Chinese technology companies will face economic and political pressures as they globalize. Chinese citizens, although they appear to have little expectation of privacy from their government, + • may re-energize its own digital diplomacy, and the U.S. economy may rediscover the dynamism that allowed it create so much of the modern world’s technology. But given China’s size and technological sophistication, Beijing has a good chance of succeeding thereby remaking cyberspace in its own image. If this happens, the Internet will be less global and less open. A major part of it will run Chinese applications over Chinese-made hardware. And Beijing will reap the economic, diplomatic, national Washington. CHINESE VISION Chinese leadership has very clear vision how big a role Internet can play for China. After years of inertia, during which cyber-policy was fragmented among a wide array of government departments, the Cyberspace Administration of China has responsibility for controlling online content, bolstering cyber security, and developing the digital economy. Cyber power sits at the intersection of four Chinese national priorities. First, Chinese leaders want to ensure a harmonious Internet. That means one that guides public opinion, supports good governance, and fosters economic growth but also is tightly controlled so as to stymie

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� that could undermine the regime. Second, China wants to reduce its dependence on foreign suppliers of digital and communications equipment. It hopes to eventually lead the world in advanced technolo ] and robotics. Initiatives of innovation and development must be securely kept in our own hands suggest innovators. Third, Chinese policymakers, like their counterparts around the world, are increasingly wary of the risk of cyberattacks on governmental and private networks that could disrupt critical services, hurt economic growth, and even cause physical destruction. Accordingly, the People’s Liberation Army has announced plans to speed up the development of its cyber-forces and beef up China’s network defenses. This focus on cyber security overlaps with China’s techno-nationalism: Chinese policymakers believe they have to reduce China’s dependence on U.S. technology companies to ensure its national security, a belief that was strengthened in 2013. U.S. intelligence services had accessed the data of millions of people that was held and transmitted by U.S. companies. Finally, China has promoted cyber-sovereignty as an organizing principle of Internet governance, in direct opposition to U.S. support for a global, open Internet. Cybersovereignty represents the right of individual countries to independently choose their own path of cyber development, model of cyber regulation and Internet public policies, and participate in international cyberspace governance on an equal footing. China envisions a world of Z ‡ the sovereign rights of states. It also wants to weaken the bottom-up, private-sector-led model of Internet governance championed by the United States and its allies, a model Beijing sees as dominated by Western technology companies and civil society organizations. Chinese policymakers believe they would have a larger say in regulat for cyberspace if the UN played a larger role in Internet governance. All four of Beijing’s priorities require China to act aggressively to shape cyberspace at home and on the global stage. THE END OF THE OPEN INTERNET * „ ‡ controls on websites and social media. In March 2017, the second largest of China’s digital giants, and other Chinese technology companies to shut down websites they hosted " and the military. A few months later, Tencent, the search

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September 2018

GLOBAL FOCUS company Baidu, and the micro blogging site Weibo were = ^Š ‰ < *! tions companies to block virtual private networks (VPNs), which are widely used by Chinese businesses, entrepreneurs, and academics to circumvent government censors. Even Western companies complied: Apple removed VPNs from the Chinese version of its App Store. Beijing also announced new regulations further limiting online anonymity and making the organizers of online forums personally accountable for the contributions of their members. Authorities have rolled out a sophisticated surveillance system based on a vast array of cameras and sensors, aided telligence. The tool has been deployed most extensively ¤ ‡ ‰ " @ • hur population there, but the government is working to scale it up nationwide. In addition to employing censorship and surveillance, China has also created an interlocking framework of laws, regulations, and standards to increase cyber security and safeguard data in governmental and private systems. The government has enacted measures to protect important Internet infrastructure, it has mandated security reviews for network products and services, and it has required companies to store data within China, where the government will face few obstacles to accessing it. Beijing has also introduced new regulations concerning how government agencies respond to cyber security incidents, how and when the government discloses software vulnerabilities to the private sector, and how ministries and private companies share information about threats. $ " " least, the regulations will raise the cost and complexity of doing business in China for both domestic and foreign technology companies. Foreign companies worry that an expansive interpretation of the requirements for inspections of equipment and storing data within China will raise costs and could allow the Chinese government to steal their intellectual property. MADE IN CHINA Chinese policymakers believe that to be truly secure, < = ! wonder, then, that support for science and technology ÂĽ = plan, which began in 2016. China’s investment in research and development has grown by an average of 20 percent a year since 1999. It now stands at approximately $233 billion, or 20 percent of total world R & D spending. More students graduate with science and engineering degrees in China than anywhere else in the world, and in 2018, China overtook the United States in terms of the total } long ignored Chinese research, but they are now citing a

September 2018

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growing number of Chinese publications. Three technologies will matter most for China’s ability to shape the future of cyberspace: semiconductors, quan J „ jing has tried and failed to build an indigenous industry producing semiconductors, that is, the integrated circuits (or microchips) found in nearly every technological device. In 2016, China imported $228 billion worth of integrated circuits more than it spent on imported oil accounting for over 90 percent of its consumption. In 2015, China issued guidelines that aim to get Chinese _‚ Chinese industry by 2025. Since then, the government has subsidized domestic and foreign companies that move their operations to China and encouraged domestic consumers to buy from only Chinese suppliers. The government has committed $150 billion over the next decade to improve China’s ability to design and manufacture advanced microprocessors. China has also acquired technologies abroad. Chinese companies made 27 attempted bids for U.S. semiconductor companies worth more than $37 billion in total, compared with six deals worth $214 million from 2000 to 2013. Then there is quantum computing, which uses the laws of quantum mechanics essentially the ability of quantum bits, or qubits, to perform several calculations at the same time to solve certain problems that ordinary computers cannot. Advances in this area could allow Chinese intelligence services to create highly secure encrypted communications channels and break most conventional encryption. High-speed quantum computers could also have ‡ analytics, and the process of developing drugs. In 2016, < ¼ nicate using channels secured by quantum cryptography and constructed the world’s longest quantum communications cable, connecting Beijing and Shanghai. It’s not clear how much China spends on quantum computing, but the sums are certainly substantial. It is spending $1 billion alone on one quantum computing laboratory. More than its investments in semiconductor research and quantum computing, it is China’s ambitious plans in ar the West. It is assumed that China will catch up with US by 2025 and they will dominate the industries of AI. China including autonomous drone swarms, software that can defend itself against cyber attacks, and programs that mine social media to predict political movements. In 2017, the Chinese government outlined its road map for turning itself into the world’s primary AI innovation center by 2030. The plan is more a wish list than a concrete strategy, but it does provide direction to central ministries and local governments on how to invest to

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GLOBAL FOCUS research and development. < =  ¢ " faster Internet speeds to mobile users and enable new uses for Internet-connected devices. To many Chinese leaders, China’s current place in the global division of la ' the intellectual property they own, and Chinese companies survive on the thin margins they make by manufacturing and assembling physical products. If China can products that plug into Chinese-owned platforms. Over the last decade, Beijing has increased the skill, sophistication, and size of the delegations it sends to standards organizations. China was essentially absent for the discussions about third- and fourth-generation mobile network technologies, but things have changed. In 2016, Huawei, China’s largest telecommunications company, sent twice as many representatives as any other company §

GOVERNING THE INTERNET China has also tried to shape the international institutions and norms that govern cyberspace. For much of the last decade, Chinese hackers de facto set those norms by engaging in massive cyber-espionage campaigns designed to steal military, political, and, worst of all in the eyes of the United States, industrial secrets. The Obama administration pressed Beijing on the subject, publicly attributing attacks on U.S. companies to state-backed hack ! Z ’‚^ the two sides agreed that neither would support digital theft for commercial advantage. China went on to sign similar agreements with Australia, Canada, Germany, and the United Kingdom. There was a marked downturn in activity in the wake of these agreements, but the decline seems to have been as much a result of a reorganization < • " Now that the People’s Liberation Army has consolidated control over its cyber-forces, industrial espionage has shifted to more sophisticated hackers in China’s intelligence agencies. < ¼ " road for cyberspace have centered on the UN. Washington and its allies have promoted a distributed model of Internet governance that involves technical bodies, the private sector, civil society, and governments, whereas Beijing prefers a state-centric vision. In 2017, for example, China called for a multilateral approach to governing cyberspace, with the United Nations taking a leading role in building international consensus on rules. Beijing

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believes a multilateral approach located at the UN has Z Â? of governments over those of technology companies and civil society groups. And it would allow China to mobilize the votes of developing countries, many of which would Z mation. „ ‡ • " ÂŽ forum at the UN known as the Group of Governmental ˆ in a series of meetings and reports from 2004 to 2017. Although in the 2013 report, Chinese diplomats accepted that international law and the UN Charter apply to cyberspace, and in 2015, they agreed to four norms of state behavior, they dragged their feet on discussions of exactly how neutrality, proportionality, the right of self-defense, and other concepts from international law might be ap + discussing international law would lead to the militarization of cyberspace. Chinese diplomats, along with their Russian counterparts, stressed the need for the peaceful settlement of disputes. In 2017, the participating countries in the Group of Governmental Experts failed to issue a follow-on report in part because China and Russia opposed language endorsing the right of self-defense. In addition to working through the UN, Chinese policymakers have created their own venue to showcase their vision for the Internet and strengthen their voice in its governance: the World Internet Conference, held annually in Wuzhen. Beijing is likely to have its biggest impact on global Internet governance through its trade and investment policies, especially as part of the Belt and Road Initiative, a massive " < Z dian Ocean, the Persian Gulf, and Europe. Along with the ¨ Â‚ pipelines, ports, mines, and utilities along the route, of < ‘ ' = works, satellite relay stations, data centers, and smart cities. Much of the activity along the nascent digital Silk Road has come from technology companies and industry alliances, not the Chinese government. Alibaba has framed its expansion into Southeast Asia as part of the Belt and Road Initiative. It has acquired the Pakistani e-commerce company Daraz and launched a digital free-trade zone with the support of the Malaysian and Thai governments, which will ease customs checks, provide logistical support for companies, and promote exports from small and medium-sized companies in Malaysia and Thailand to China. ZTE now operates in over 50 of the 64 countries on the route of the Belt and Road Initiative. As well as =

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September 2018

GLOBAL FOCUS the company has been providing surveillance, mapping, cloud storage, and data analysis services to cities in Ethiopia, Nigeria, Laos, Sri Lanka, Sudan, and Turkey. The Chinese government hopes that these enterprises „ „ ‡ always succeeded in converting business relationships into political heft, even when the projects have involved = In the short term, however, the presence of Chinese engineers, managers, and diplomats will reinforce a tendency among developing countries, especially those with authoritarian governments, to embrace China’s closed conception of the Internet. THE FUTURE IS CHINESE Beijing’s vision of the Internet is ascendant. According to the think tank Freedom House, Internet freedom how easily people can access the Internet and use it to speak their minds has declined for the last seven years. More countries are pushing companies to store data on their citizens within their borders (which companies resist because doing so raises costs and reduces their ability to protect the privacy of their users) and to allow the government to carry out security reviews of their network equipment. Each country pursues these policies in support of its own ends, but they all can turn to China for material, technical, and political support. The United States’ position at the center of the global Internet brought it major economic, military, and intel • and servers that carry the world’s data, the phones and personal computers that people use to communicate, and the software that serves as a gateway to the Internet. In a similar way, the Chinese Communist Party sees technology companies as a source of economic dynamism and soft power. And so it is increasing its political control over Chinese technology giants. As those companies come to supply more of the world’s digital infrastructure, China’s spy services will be tempted to collect data from them.

ÂĽ ÂŽ < sure in Australia, the United States, and Europe. The Australian government is considering banning Huawei

] Ž ¼ = mobile networks. Washington is working to limit Chinese investment in U.S. technology companies and has made ! < do business in the United States: it has blocked China Mobile’s application to provide telecommunications services in the United States, banned the sale of Huawei and ZTE smartphones on U.S. military bases, and sought to prohibit U.S. telecommunications companies from spending critical infrastructure funds on equipment and services from China. Yet none of these challenges is likely to deal a fatal blow to China’s digital ambitions. The country is too large, too powerful, and too sophisticated. To prepare for greater Chinese control over the Internet, the United States should work with its allies and trading partners to pressure Beijing to open up the Chinese market to foreign companies, curb its preferential treatment of Chinese ¼ property. U.S. policymakers should shift from simply defending the bottom-up, private-sector-led model of Inter " developing countries with realistic alternatives to working solely through the UN. Washington should talk to Beijing directly about norms of state behavior in cyberspace. The two countries should work together on setting global standards for government purchases of technology, determining how companies should secure their supply chains against cyberattacks, and planning government inspections of critical communications equipment. Yet " Whatever Washington does, the future of cyberspace will be much less American and much more Chinese.

Chinese technology companies have several advantages: access to a lot of data with few restrictions on how they can use it, talented workers, and government support. But the country’s legacy of central planning may lead companies to overinvest, build redundant operations,

' * + , M/s. Business Advisors Group, Mumbai

September 2018

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE

GEO-SYNTHETICS AND ITS APPLICATIONS Geosynthetic is manufactured from a polymeric material that is used with soil, rock, or other geotechnical-related material. Most geosynthetics are made from synthetic polymers of polypropylene, polyester, or polyethylene. Geo-synthetic products available today include, but are not limited to, Geo-webs, Geo-grids, Geonets, Geomeshes, Geo-composites, and Geo-textiles. Geo-textile is a permeable Geo-synthetic made of textile materials. Primary advantages of Geosynthetics • Relatively low cost for many applications • Ease and convenience for many applications ÂŞ " lems • Design methodologies are available for many uses • Many variety of geosynthetic products are available to • May be removed and reused if economically feasible Limitations ˆ" ¢ = synthetic is not properly selected, designed, or installed. • Many Geo-synthetics are sensitive to light degradation and must be protected prior to installation. Geosynthetics that are not degradable should not be used where their presence or appearance is aesthetically unacceptable. Major applications of Geosynthetics are: • In Roads and Pavements: – Subgrade separation and Stabilization, – Base Reinforcement, – Overlay Stress Absorption and Reinforcement

• In Support Systems – Prefabricated Systems and On-site Fabrication Roads GEO TEXTILES USE FOR ACCESS/HAUL ROADS - PARKING LOTS - HIGHWAYS AND STREETS (BASE REINFORCEMENT) J life of everyday structures by preventing the intermixing of subgrade soils and the aggregate base, and/or stabilizing poor subgrades. 1. The Slit-Film Woven Geotextiles @ ] following functions: • Separation • Stabilization

2. Woven Polypropylene Geotextiles @ ] following functions: • Reinforcement • Separation • Filtration <

• In Subsurface Drainage: – Subgrade dewatering, – Road base drainage, – Structure drainage • In Erosion and Sediment Control – Hard Armor Systems, Silt Fence

3. Geo cells

• In Reinforced Soil Systems: – Embankments over soft foundations, – Reinforced Steepened slopes, – Reinforced soil walls

¢ ] one of the following functions: • Containment • Erosion - Slope Protection

• In Seepage control systems � – Environmental Protection

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September 2018

TECHNICAL TEXTILE 4. Geogrids Rigid Biaxial Polypropylene Geogrids most frequently tions: • Reinforcement <

tiles and non-woven geotextiles are also used for prevention of erosion Drainage SUBSURFACE DRAINAGE This is one of the most common applications of geotextiles in the construction of roadways, etc, allowing for rapid removal of water or oth excellent soil retention, assuring long-term free

5. Nonwoven Geotextiles † ¢ ] perform at least one of the following functions: • Filtration • Drainage • Separation • Erosion • Protection

} @ = tiles are used for Drainage Embankments REINFORCED EMBANKMENTS - STEEPENED SLOPES Common applications include earth dams, embankments on soft foundation soils, levees, highway embankments, 1. High-Strength (PET) of Woven Geotextiles

Erosion GEO TEXTILES USE FOR SHORELINES - SLOPES - SWALES - CHANNELS - CANALS

The PET High-Strength Woven Polyester Geotextiles are ] following functions: • Reinforcement • Separation <

+ way back in 1958. The fabric, which lies beneath various forms of riprap cover (i.e. rock, gabions and mattresses, concrete pattern-placed units, etc.), allows for free drain shoreline and other erosion. @ ] following functions: • Long-Term Filtration • Drainage • Erosion Protection • Separation

September 2018

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2. Woven-Coated Uniaxial Polyester Geogrids @ ] following functions: • Aggregate Reinforcement • Soil Reinforcement

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE 3. PP woven geo-textiles are also used of reinforcement

storage tanks, residential and retail structures,

SRW Walls

Roadways, airport runways, industrial facilities, port and marine construction, and MSE walls

SEGMENTAL RETAINING WALLS

Pavements PAVEMENT RESTORATION Asphalt overlay fabrics can extend the life of all existing paved areas. These specially manufactured nonwoven

] during installation, and creates a moisture barrier between old and new pavement. In addition, they absorb and extending the overall performance of the new overlay

1. Woven-Coated Uniaxial Geogrids (Given above) are most frequently used to build SRW wall 2. Use of Non-woven geo textiles (Given Above) ` • } @ >¢ ÂŽ Q

^ Ž * J ] to perform at least one of the following functions: • Moisture Sealing • Stress Relief • Bonding • Pavement Interlayer

Alternative Walls < = " @ � ˆ >@ ˆQ tures are temporary roadway detours, wrapped faced walls, highway bridge construction 1. Use of Geocells < < System (given above) 2. Use of Geogrids – as given above 3. Use of WovenCoated Uniaxial Geogrids (Given above) 4. Use of High-Performance Woven Polypropylene Geotextiles (given above) 5. Use of PET HighStrength Series of Woven Polyester Geotextiles (given above)

Environmental ENVIRONMENTAL - LANDFILLS “ = ‡ � riety protection, drainage, steepened slopes, vegetation/ erosion control, gas venting and capping/closures. } = high performance PP woven goetextiles, high strength PET woven geotextiles and geo-grids are all (given above)

Prefabricated Vertical (PV) drains Slim, Sleek, Flexible, durable and reliable. Prefabricated Vertical (PV) drains may be light in weight but they deliver a heavy blow to slow-draining soils These drains are widely used for warehouses,

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September 2018

TECHNICAL TEXTILE Erosion Blankets EROSION CONTROL BLANKETS - (TEMPORARY) - EROSION APPLICATIONS Erosion Control Blankets (ECBs) are ideal solutions for the short-term challenges of establishing vegetation in low to moderate erosion applications such as: subtle grades to steep 1:1 slopes; swales; moderate

Degradable Erosion Control Blankets are most frequent tions: • Vegetation • Soil-Seed Retention

protection during vegetation; and permanent Reinforced + ˆ < = tions. The materials extend the erosion resistance of soil, rock, and other materials by permanently reinforcing the vegetative root structure.

2. Anchor Reinforced Vegetation Systems are most fre] functions: • Erosion Control (Severe) • Stabilization • Reinforced Soil • Reinforced Vegetation

Erosion Control Blankets are made up of matrix combi ÂŤ or double-sided polypropylene or jute netting and provide immediate erosion protection during vegetation in low to moderate erosion control applications. Turf Reinforcement TURF REINFORCEMENT MATS - (PERMANENT) . Turf Reinforcement Mats (TRMs) are for those moderate to severe applications that require both permanent and reinforced vegetation in addition to the immediate needs of preventing surface erosion while establishing vegetation.

comprised of woven high–tenacity polyester yarns for reinforcement at low strains; entangled within a three fused at their intersections. When anchored with the S2 aluminum alloy percussion driven anchors to compressed soils 24�–36� beneath the surface, Landscape LANDSCAPE - GROUND COVER FABRICS Landscape fabrics come in a variety of weights and types. Their primary functions are separation and friction, weed block, moisture retention, patio/paver underlayment, and

+ ‘ @ ] perform at least one of the following functions: • Reinforced Turf • Erosion Control • Soil-Seed Retention It is a dense matrix of polypropylene (PP) and/or organ

September 2018

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE 1. • • •

Landscape and Ground Cover fabrics are used for: Retarding Weed Growth Reducing Evaporation Plant Alignment ‰ + ! Ž (WC Landscape Series) Retention of Mulch and Reduction of Erosion on Embankments •Patio and Paver Under layment •Drainage

These fabrics are woven polypropylene geotextiles with = + " fabric and makes them ideal to use on any sloped area that needs to be covered. In addition, they contain colored marker yarns every 12 inches. Treated with a special UV protection, they are designed to last approximately 10 + resistant to insects and rodents and will not rot or support mildew.

ed marker yarns every 12 inches for quick and easy plant alignment and presentation. Treated with a special UV protection, they are designed to last approximately 10 years the shade. Puncture and tear resistant, they sustain pedes ! + and rodents and will not rot or support mildew. 3. Spunbond landscape fabrics Nonwoven landscape fabrics are spunbond, 100% polyester (PET) geotextiles. With their high strength to weight ratios, the LX-SB landscape fabrics provide excellent dimensional stability. The polyester construction of the LX-SB Series is non-biodegradable, is rot and " cellent ultra-violet resistance insuring its long life. Ideal to use as a weed block, an underlayment for patio and paver ap ATIRA has the Centre of Excellence (CoE) for Geo-textiles with state of the art facilities for testing. ATIRA is actively involved in the Promotion of usage of Geotextiles in North Eastern Region of India

2. High UV Ground cover fabric Fabrics are woven polypropylene geotextiles with color-

4' " Assistant Director ATIRA

NEWS A.T.E. has partnered with Screen O Tex India Private Limited, Ahmedabad, India for the marketing and sales of textile screens in South India and Bangladesh. Screen O Tex has established itself over the last several years and is now at the forefront in the rotary nickel screen business both for textile and non-textile applications. Screens from Screen O Tex are manufactured and controlled to have consistent thickness, a uniform open area and error free repeats – which form the three pillars of quality for wide screens. These high standards result in

@ " and reliable, with multiple stripping and reuse possible due to their excellent ductility. With its focus on research and development, technology,

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and quality centered processes, Screen O Tex has consistently maintained European quality standards for its screens, meeting the needs of the textile printing market all over the world. A.T.E., with its rich experience in rotary screen printing, " textile customers in South India and Bangladesh with high quality textile screens.

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September 2018

YARN REPORT

CHINA TREBLES COTTON YARN IMPORT FROM INDIA { ued its robust march on the low base. Last year, textiles exports had declined 14% in volume and 1% in value under the adverse impact of demonetization and the newly implemented the Goods and Service Tax. Cotton export crossed 8 m bales by July Cotton exports continued to expand in July in line with the shipment in previous month, surging 88% year on year with shipment of 2.8 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 1.5 lakh bales exported in July 2017. Bangladesh reemerged as the largest importer of Indian cotton in July, followed by China and Vietnam. Pakistan was the fourth largest importer. The unit prices realisation averaged INR131 per kg or US cents 87.63 per pound. This compared to domestic spot prices were lower by about a US cents and US cents 9 compared with global spot benchmark, the Cotlook ‘A’ index for the month. While the global benchmark has moderated in June from its previous month’s level, export FOB value has increased in contrast $ ^‚ ’‚^_=^‹ year, shipment aggregated 8.32 million bales as against 6.4 million bales in the corresponding months of previous marketing year. The price realization averaged INR119 a kg or US cents 85.51 per pound during the season as against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 93.73 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at US cents 82.65 per pound. China trebles cotton yarn import from India Total merchandise exports increased 14% in July 2018 to US$25.8 billion over a year ago. Merchandise ex-ports in INR increased 22% to INR177,041 crore. Petroleum products recorded an increase of 30%, fol-lowed by gems & jewellery 25%, engineering goods 9%, organic & inorganic chemicals 20%, and electronic goods 42%. The exports also moved up for cotton yarn/fabrics/made-ups, handloom products etc 15%. However, the exports declined for RMG of all textiles 0.6%, handicrafts excluding handmade carpet 3%, man-made yarn/fabrics/made-ups etc 1% in July 2018. Meanwhile, imports moved up 29% to US$43.8 billion.

September 2018

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+ ‡  _Â? • ¨^‹ ‚^ { ’‚^‹ Z† Z†‘ to INR123,743 crore in July 2018. Z { ment continued to rally on the low base on 2017. Spun yarns shipment totaled 119 million kg (up 55%) worth US$384 million (up 60%) implying an average unit value realization of US$3.22 per kg, up by 10 cents compared to last year. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened to INR67.87 this July which meant good for exports. China was the largest buyer of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value. Cotton yarn export was at 100 million kg worth US$327 million (INR2,220 crore), 66% above previous year’s level. 74 countries imported cotton yarn at an average price of US$3.28 a kg, US cents 7 up from previous month and US cents 6 from a year ago. China trebled its import of cotton yarn from India in volume and value terms. It was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value both rising 42% over the year. In June too it had clocked a growth of just 40%. Vietnam and South Korea and were the other major importers, with former trebling imports from India and latter doubling. ˆ ˆ did not import any cotton yarn from India this July as they had imported yarn worth US$0.90 million same month last year. However, they were replaced by 135 other countries which imported yarn worth US$1.70 million. Kenya, Syria, Lebanon and Nepal were among (other than Q { • ÂŽ ˆ @ | Â? ly reduced their imports compared to last year. ^‚‚Â? = pand in July. MMF yarn exports comprised 3.6 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.1 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.2 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 44% in value while viscose yarn exports value increased 25% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were up 10%. Polyester spun yarns worth US$9 million were exported to 46 countries at average unit price of US$2.51 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and Morocco. Unit price realization was up both compared to last month and also from last year. Viscose yarn worth US$7.2 million or INR49 crore was exported at an average price of US$3.37 per kg. Tur-key the top importer worth US$1.64 million, followed by Bangladesh and Belgium. USA was the eighth largest importer of

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YARN REPORT three in recent months. Blended spun yarns worth US$39 million were exported in July, up 30% YoY in value terms. During the month, 7.2 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$20 million while 3.9 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$12 million Egypt, Bangladesh. And Turkey, were the largest import-

ers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by South Africa. Â ` kg, up 2.4% YoY valued at US$102 million. For more details contact Textile Beacon Global Info Services

GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN AUGUST Cotton < Z " { with some coarser varieties rising while ties falling. Spot prices were up INR110-450 per candy month on month for some varieties while some posted declines of INR60-1,465 a candy. Shankar-6 cotton was traded at INR47,940 per candy on the spot market, up INR265 from last month while V-797 was dearer by INR1,585 per candy during the month. US cotton futures crawled in the last week of the month, though closing in the lower third of the week’s trading range and on a pace to end August with a steep loss of `=œ� " tion support. US cotton December contract lost US cents 3.21 on the month to close at an average of US cents 83.72 per pound. March settled at US cents 82.58 per pound. Nearby October contract settled at US cents 84.08 per pound, down US cents 3.76 on the month. In China, spot cotton markets saw some upward improvement amid drying climatic conditions. The trade war has been in focus with players expecting rise in import prices also due to weakening Yuan. Hand-picked grade-2128 were quoted at US cents 105-106 per pound. The China Cotton Index inched up 87 Yuan to average 16,285 a ton (US cents 108 a pound) for August. Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index also lost US cent 2.23 on the month to average US cents 94.27 per pound recording a low of US cents 91.40 per pound in the third week of August. Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn prices moved in opposite directions in Asian

38

markets with China witnessing moderation and rising in Pakistan in August. The movements were in line with the Z < and regular count yarn moved down faster than combed yarns of all counts. This implied waning market condition and weak Yuan. 32s prices were down US cents 6 to US$3.52 a kg while 40s were at US$3.66 a kg, down US cents 7. In Pakistan, both the Karachi and Faisalabad yarn markets witness sharp rise in cotton yarn prices with high end prices moving faster than lower end. The rise largely ÂĽ rates at KCA. 30s carded prices in Karachi gaind PakRs4-8 to PakRs178-188 per pound (US$3.19-3.37 a kg), while 32s combed in Faisalabad gained PakRs9 at PakRs184-192 per pound (US$3.30-3.45 a kg). In India, cotton yarn prices rolled over given the sluggish movement in cotton prices in recent months. 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting Z†‘’’‚ >• ¨` ^ Q “ Polyester chain pricing Polyester staple tinued to climb following hikes in feedstock pu thalic acid and mono ethylene glycol prices. However, trade discussions were curtailed as buyers continued to resist increases without an uptick in downstream demand. In China, PSF " ^ Âœ$ = = ‰ J Jiangsu and Zhejiang were raised early in all the weeks in Shandong and Hebei. In Fujian, PSF market sentiment stabilized after the hike but downstream buyers adopted Z ‰ " ‡ stream followed up. The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association has urged the government to bring down import Â?

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September 2018

YARN REPORT Z Z ‰ J " Z { ­ ‡ " 1.4D direct-melt PSF were up US cents 23 at US$1.52-1.56 a kg, while the same in Fujian and Shandong were down in the range of US$1.53-1.57 a kg. In India, PSF prices averaged at INR93.75 a kg for 1.4D (US$1.34 a kg, down US cents 2, due to weak INR). Polyester yarn prices moved up in line with the rise in pol < ‰ stable in India. In China, polyester yarn markets were driven by rising cost of PTA and MEG, while the same has " ‰ " + Z Â? `Â’ " at 15.67 Yuan a kg (US$2.29 a kg) while 45s were up at 16.78 Yuan a kg (US$2.45 a kg). In India, weak demand in India was hurting polyester yarn markets, although export were charged up in July. 30s polyester knit yarn Z†‘^`Â’ >• ¨¨^ ‹Š • cents 3 due to weak INR) in Ludhiana.

was slightly higher in August. PTA markers averaged • ¨ÂŠÂŒÂ‚ Œ‚ <J‘ < " + | rea were at US$974 a ton, both up US$112 on the month. MEG CFR China markers averaged US$930 a ton and CFR South East Asia to US$917 a ton, up US$29 month on month. COURTESY: TEXTILEBEACON.COM - +91-9819915227

9 ' " " Textile Beacon

Upstream, PTA prices jumped 13% in Asia while MEG

SURAT REPORT Syntheic yarn prices rises upto Rs. 30/Kg. in 30 days The powerloom owner of the city are worried over continues increasing synthetic yarn prices. The prices of various deniers of polyester, nylon yarn has risen upto Rs 30 a kg Z have increased POY, FDY prices up to Rs 6-10/kg. Polyester yarn prices increased 20 per cent in the past 3 months ! + of fabric increased along with other costs since January has been put at over 30 per cent. Yarn manufacturers are arguing that the crude oil prices are rising consistently since many months. As a result, prices of petrochemicals like PTA, MEG(raw materials of polyester yarn) etc are also rising. By opposing this, the leaders of weavers association said, the spinners are rising yarn prices beyond the increase in raw material prices. By setting up a cartel, the yarn manufacturers, spinners are increasing the prices since six months. This is happening at a time when fabric demand is low. The continuous rising yarn prices have forced the powerloom owner to cut production by reducing number of shifts to save cost. There are around 6.5 lakh powerloom machines in the city, manufacturing around four crore meter of fabric per annum worth over Rs 30,000 crore. Post demonetization and GST regime, production of fabric reduced to 2 crore meter due to closure of majority of powerloom units. The weaving sources said, the yarn price hike has put !

September 2018

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sustain in the competitive global environment. The MMF sector has been passing through a challenging business environment following the implementation of GST. This year, the price has shot up abnormally and even there was no sign of decreasing. The governments should intervene and reduce the polyester yarn prices. If the authority

"  lakh laborers in the industry in the city, said the weavers association. IOCL organized Textile and Plastics Investor conclave in Surat Indian Oil Corporation Ltd. (Indian Oil), under the aegis of the Ministry of Petroleum & Natural Gas, has organized Textiles and Plastics Investors Conclave at Surat on 2nd September 2018. Chief guest Union Minister for Petroleum and Natural Gas, Dharmendra Pradhan, has inaugurated the Conclave. Addressing the gathering, he said, Odisha has immense potential for the growth of the plastics and textiles sectors with convenient access to all the primary raw material needed. The region also has the necessary infrastructure, including ports, railway connectivity and road networks, that will facilitate the speedy development of the two sectors. The Government of India ‰ ‰<‰Z‘ >‰ leum, Chemicals and Petrochemicals Investment Region) in the country. It is the most strategically located PCPIR approved by the Government of India. Indian Oil has commissioned a 15-million metric tonnes ‰ ‘

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SURAT REPORT 35,000 crore. A new polypropylene unit of 700 KTA (kilo tonnes per annum) capacities is getting ready at Indian * ¼ ‰ ‘ dustry. Estimated to cost Rs. 3,150 crore, the plant is getting ready to be commissioned by the end of this year. The Plastics Park at Paradip, being jointly developed by IDCO and Indian Oil in JV mode, will utilize polypropylene

‰ ‘ The Park is spread over 120 acres, out of which 70 acres will be available for industrial plots. The net employment generation from the Park will be more than 7,000. Indian Oil is also planning to set up two more mega projects in Odisha at a combined investment of Rs 13,000 @ˆ¢ >@ ˆ ¢ Q ‰+ÂŽ >‰ + ÂŽ Q A Textiles Park is expected to come up in Bhadrak district of Odisha. The integrated Textiles Park, to be developed in 234 acres. Indian Oil will make available the basic raw material, i.e., PTA & MEG, within the State itself, for the downstream industries. Pradipsinh Jadeja, Minister of State for Home, Law & Justice, Govt of Gujarat, remained present as Guest of Honour. The theme of the Conclave, being organized in association with ONGC Petro additions Ltd. (OPAL), was “Purbodaya: Unfolding Mega Opportunities in Textiles & ‰ $ * ˜ ! of the ministries of Petroleum & Natural Gas, Chemicals & Fertilisers, Government of India, CEOs of oil & gas, petrochemicals, polyester, textiles and allied sector companies has participated the event. Exporters demands 100% duty increase on MMF & Nylon yarn imports To curb the imports of Man-Made Fibres, MMF & Nylon yarns, the exporters has demanded 100% custom duty increase. The Local manufacturers urges to the govern " ed MMF textiles from countries like Vietnam , China and „ Z = indigenous manufacturers, they demands basic custom duty on polyester, viscose and others to be increased to 10% from the existing 5% and duty on nylon Fibres and yarns increased to 15% from current 7.5%.

According to DGCI&S, the import of MMF yarn, fabrics and made-up together have gone up by 27 per cent and import of made-up staple Fibres increased by 19 per cent during April-July, 2018. The import of MMF textile has increased by almost 26 per cent in value terms at $869 million compared to $711 million in the previous year. Sources said, China has been dumping their fabrics and ready-made garments in the Indian market through Bangladesh, Nepal, Vietnam. Domestic textile manufacturers and associations have warned the top authorities that the domestic industry would be extinct if dumping is not countered. With increase in imports of man-made Fibres and MMF based textiles into India, the industry is losing its competitive edge in the global market. They believe that with 100% increase in import duty, the domestic MMF textile segment will be safeguarded. Parvati Fabrics launched ‘Raisin’ brand Surat based high-quality fabrics and designer womenwear manufacturer & exporter, Parvati Fabrics has launched ‘Raisin’ brand - a contemporary clothing line for the modern Indian woman. Renowned actress Bhumi Pednekar has launched ‘Raisin’ in a programme organised in mumbai on 14th August. The director of Parvati Fabric Limited, Vishal Pacheriwal said, The aim behind ‘Raisin’ is to keep up with trends and sence of a modern woman. It represents a perfect blend Z ‘ ÂĽ audience comprises women aged from 18 to 45. Raisin’s contemporary fusion wear line specializes in a variety of products like dresses, kurtas, tunics and gowns crafted from premium fabrics like linen, cotton, georgette, cottonsilk, khadi-silk and muslin. The brand caters to comfort " of patterns and styles across its collection. + ‘ ÂĽ ! e-commerce website, Amazon, Jabong, Myntra and Ajio. The clothing line will launch in accross the country. The price will range between Rs. 749 - Rs. 4999. Raisin wants to launch a minimum of 150 EBOs within a span of 3 years.

“I

have learned that success is to be measured not so much by the position that one has reached in life as by the obstacles which he has had to overcome while trying to succeed.� —Booker T. Washington 40

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September 2018

BRAND FOCUS

SPLICING SOLUTIONS FROM SAVIO In the automatic yarn winding process, splicing is the most important part and Savio is particular on that. Savio " cations and requirements. Savio uses Mesdan, a Savio Group company, make of splicers from the beginning and they are known in the industry for the best splice results with shortest and strongest splices. There are air, moist air, water, heat splicers from Mesdan and TWINSPLICERŽ from Savio, (which are completely mechanical). Savio has now further introduced the improved versions of the new air and moist air splicers (model 690 and 6901). These splicers with duo air control give better performance. Earlier versions had a common air supply for tail preparation and splicing. This new system provides more possibilities for the mill technicians to adjust settings for better control of air resulting in better performance. Below are details of individual splicers Air splicer – Model 895 (Eco PulsarS) / 845 (Polar Evo)

cerised/singed yarns, elastomeric yarns, two ply cotton yarns, open end yarns. Heat splicer – ModelH20/H21 The consolidated experienced on the splicer air technology in combination with the use of heat, guarantees a ! " blended materials and high twisted yarns. Main application range: Carded wool coarse counts, mule spun yarn, high twist yarns, 100% wools and blends TWINSPLICER Ž – The TWIN splicer is ranked at the top amongst all splicers for its superior quality. The splice strength and the appearance same as the parent yarn. The splice on compact yarns, besides the strength, needs to be of an extremely good appearance in order not to create a visible defect +

Air splicer settings are centralised through and Machine computer

Splicing principle is 100% mechanical with total control of the yarn during the splicing cycle. Compressed air is not at all required and consumed.

These models known for a fast and simple change over giving consistent uniformity of splices at each spindle

Main application range:

Main application range: All kind of spun yarn like 100% cotton, Viscose cellulosic, Wool, Acrylic, Silk, and blends of all these materials, Fancy yarns, Core yarns. and blends, 100% wool and blends, Silk, cotton compact yarn, fancy

100% cotton, Compact yarns, Cotton with elastomeric yarns, cotton and blended yarns

Moist air splicer – Model 8951(Eco PulsarS) / 8451 ( Polar Evo) Moist air splicer, an innovative air splicer that also uses a very small quantity of water (spray). It has a water valve with a dosage setting to moisturise the splice in a controlled manner and self-cleaning of chamber area as and when required thro’ computer setting. The appearance and strength of Moist air splicer is more better than Air splicer Main application range: Typical yarn Like Compact, Elitwist, Cotton with elastomeric core, Some extend to double yarn of cotton, P/C, P/V, Lyocell, TENCEL.

Water splicer – Model W20 The splicing is made under vacuum while the water is injected (duo stage). All the splicer parts are located in a water proof housing to avoid the spray of water outside the splicer. @ ' J -

September 2018

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41

BRAND FOCUS TENCEL™ AND RAJESH PRATAP SINGH ENDED SUSTAINABLE FASHION DAY TWO AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK WINTER/FESTIVE 2018 WITH A GRAND INDIAN STYLE COLLECTION Last season’s initiative in India of Lenzing’s collaboration with # IMGReliance continued as Lenzing’s Tencel™ brand presented once again Rajesh Pratap Singh’s collection to end Sustainable Fashion Day Two at LakmĂŠ Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018. LENZING’S Tencel™ ÂŽ “ Â? ÂĽ + Âą is derived from sustainable wood sources and harvest ^‚‚ sources following the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing } ‰ ‰ + Âą produced in a closed loop solvent-spinning production ! pact. This economically viable manufacturing process recycles process water and reuses the solvent at a recovery rate of more than 99 per cent. This process received the European Award for the Environment from the European Commission in the category “The Technology Award for Sustainable Developmentâ€?. + Âą Biobased under the BioPreferredÂŽ Program of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, a governmental body. It has industrial, home, soil and marine conditions, and can fully + + Âą " paralleled standard of sustainability to meet evolving demands of the fashion world and consumers. “With more than 150 billion garments being produced annually, to provide 20 new garments for every person on the planet, the apparel is the second largest industrial polluter. With India facing the issue of pollution caused by the textile industry, it’s even more critical for us to adopt “ Â? ÂĽ Â? +ˆ†<ÂˆÂ“Âą Â? " uses an award-winning “closed-loopâ€? production process } “ Â? lieved in providing eco-friendly solutions to the industry and our association with Rajesh Pratap Singh is to reinforce the importance of ethical clothing and is also an endeavor to innovate and identify ways to create interest amongst Indian consumers to consider sustainable collection,â€? said Vineet Singhal, SVP (Regional CEO), Asia, Middle East & Africa (AMEA), Lenzing AG. Soft to touch and ideal material for textile fabrics + Âą " = $ + Âą -

42

and release of moisture, contributing to fabric breathability that supports the body’s natural thermal regulation. The ability to absorb moisture also makes Tencel™ = charging. In comparison with synthetics, there is an absence of electrostatic charge under normal atmospheric conditions. " = + Âą J + Âą neered to provide warm and dry sensations on the skin and keep skin feeling cool and dry throughout the day and night. + + Âą more intensively than cotton fabrics, featuring impressive + Âą satile and can be combined with a wide range of textile enhance fabrics with regards to aesthetics, performance and functionality. RAJESH PRATAP SINGH – WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE Collaborating for the second season with Tencel™ Rajesh Pratap Singh debuted his collection with silhouettes bearing modern adaptations of Indian costumes and traditional Indian dance attire. Christened “Welcome to the Jungleâ€?. The garments combined the ecological Tencel™ with Indian crafts such as Chanderi, Banarasi, Jamdaani, ikat, hand block prints and more. The garments revealed a contemporary twist to the Indian interpretation for Tencel™ weaves. The result was a rare sustainable fashion collection that presented innovations on a global level The men’s and women’s wear ensembles bear adaptations of various prints by the iconic William Morris. Rajesh = = " it in various parts of the country. It was a great merger of traditional crafts and weaves with Tencel™. Inspired by Indian silhouettes like the Poshak from Rajasthan and new variations of Indian dancers’ costumes in warm earthy ÂŤ ‘ ‡ " en path and aimed at the global dresser. Stripes made an appearance and nature and animal mo woven into the fabric story, while blends of silk, cotton and gold and silver zari gave Tencel™ an innovative make-

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September 2018

BRAND FOCUS over in an Indian context. Rajesh opened the show with "= + Âą ‡ tured shapes and playing with opacity and transparency. The collection then built momentum gradually with gold and jewel toned hues. Hand made shoes with animal motifs accessorised the collection. Hand crafted semi precious buttons found their way on many of the silhouettes. Rajesh Pratap Singh’s “Welcome to the Jungleâ€? in Tencel™ encompassed the wide range of creative possibility while working with an inherently sustainable material. A strong and focussed, India-modern collection that is well researched, unique and bears the strong creative signature of Pratap.

PLEASE DO VISIT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN STALL AT ITMA ASIA 2018 & YARN EXPO 2018 IN SHANGHAI CHINA FOLLOWING ARE THE DETAILS YARN EXPO: SHANGHAI • Date

:

• Venue :

15th to 17th October, 2018 National ( Shanghai) Center of Exhibition and Convention, Shanghai, China

• Exhibitors : Manufacturer of Yarn • TVC Stall No. Hall No. 8.1H

ITMA ASIA 2018 : SHANGHAI • Date : 15TH TO 19TH OCTOBER,2018 • Venue : National ( Shanghai) Center of Exhibition and Convention, Shanghai, China • Exhibitors : Manufacturer of Textile Technology • TVC Stall No : Hall No. 3, Stall No. H08 • Web : http://www.itmaasia.com/

• Web : https://yarn-expo-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt. com/shanghai/en/visitors/welcome.html

For advertisement/business kit/brochure/ visiting card distribution kindly contact the following:

NISHI PATEL

+91.7738586599 / +91.9769442239 +91.22.21026386

EMAIL ID

marketing@textilevaluechain.com Innovativemedia012@gmail.com

WEBSITE

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September 2018

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43

EVENT UPDATE

BTRA INITIATED THE TRAINING ACTIVITY ON EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT, WATER RECYCLING AND SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGY Around the globe, textile industry is under pressure to comply with ecological and environmental legislation and consumer safety guidelines. Consumer awareness of the impact of hazardous chemicals is growing and Government, NGOs and International Brands are getting stricter with compliance issues. The textile industry thus needs a better understanding of the issues involved and also the guidance to implement Eco- compliance systems at their end. BTRA has taken the initiative and conducted a spe � = ˆ› +

ration, the BTRA experts and Trainers Mr. Tanaji Kadam, Ms. Smita Degaonkar- Baride, Ms. Saroj Varagi, Ms. Chandrakala Medichetti, Mr. M.P. Sathianarayanan, Mr. Vijay Shirole and Mr. Akash Kanse explained in detail the pollution source, pollutants from textile industry , restricted " = ‰ ˆ › and restricted substances related test procedures, textile › = = -

Plant (ETP), Water Recycling and Sustainable Technology. The training program was inaugurated on 20th Aug 2018. Mr. Sunil Chari (Managing director- Rossari Biotech Ltd) was the Guest of Honour. Mr. S.K. Saraf (Chairman- Governing Council BTRA), Dr. Anjan K. Mukhopadhyay (Director- BTRA), Mr. Sanjay Harane (Advisor- BTRA), BTRA scientists and participants from Textile Industry were present. The handbook on ETP, water recycling & sustainable technology and Analysis of waste water & restricted substances were published during this inaugural function.

ing with zero liquid discharge (ZLD) requirements, ETP design for capacity, MIS and costing for daily operations, cost reduction techniques, checkpoints in ETP, chemical management system, Best management practices and Best available techniques for greener and cleaner sustainable textile production etc. The second session is going to commence from 25th Sept 2018.

This training program on ETP, water recycling & sustainable technology is based on the need and outcome of the studies under MOT sponsored ongoing BTRA project “Analysis of the eco-management in the Indian textile processing industry� . One of the objectives of this training program is to develop skills and bring awareness with › = It is worth noting that “National environmental Research Institute� (NEERI) and “Maharashtra Pollution control board� (MPCB) have given their full support. $ -

44

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September 2018

EVENT UPDATE

YARN EXPO 2018 A RESOUNDING SUCCESS IN SURAT y 12,225 buyers vist Yarn Expo 2018 y ˆ Yarn Expo y Buyers whole heartedly welcome yarn exhibition in Surat The Southern Gujarat Chambers of Commerce & Industry (SGCCI) which organised Yarn Expo 2018, a much awaited yarn exhibition from August 4-6, 2018 in Surat, was a resounding success with 12,225 buyers visiting the exhibition. There were around 80 exhibitors, most of whom are renowned yarn producing companies from all over India. Yarn Expo 2018 saw participation of yarn producers like Reliance Industries, Bhilosa Industries, Wellknown Polyesters, Perfect Filament, Shahlon Group, Grasim Industries, RSWM Ltd, Indian Rayon, Nimbark Fashions, Century Enka, Madhusudan Group and many others. Yarn Expo 2018 was inaugurated by Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles. She was accompanied by Smt Darshana Jardosh, Member of Parliament, Shri CR Patil, Member of Parliament and Dr Jagdish Patel, Mayor of Surat. The weavers and lace makers of Surat had never been exposed to such a wide variety of yarns and that too the latest yarn developments. Most of the buyers gave the feedback that since Surat is the biggest textile hub in India, a yarn exhibition was long awaited. The rush of buyers even in closing hours of the last day showed the enthusiasm. Many of the buyers also agreed that Yarn Expo will also provide an momentum to the textile trade in Surat, which is undergoing a slowdown. The reason being that the exhibiting companies were showing the latest developments in yarns, which gave an opportunity to weavers and lace makers to develop newer varieties of fabrics and try to beat the slowdown.

one yarn exhibition has been held in Surat till date and that too many years back. SGCCI planned this exhibition keeping in mind the large consuming potential of yarns in Surat. We are totally astounded by astounded by the ´ ˆ ˜ @ ƒ @ ‰ at SGCCI said. “Surat consumes around 60,000 tons of yarn per month, which is why a yarn exhibition was very much needed. Our other objective was to tackle the slowdown in the industry. I am sure Yarn Expo will help the industry get over the slowdown as weavers will now develop newer fabrics from the latest generation of yarns shown at Yarn Expo,â€? Mr Girdhargopal Mundra, Yarn Expo Chairman said. “Following the success of Yarn Expo 2018, we have already announced dates of the 2019 edition. Most of the existing exhibitors have already committed to participating in 2019, while many have decided to double or even treble their stall space. We expect that the 2019 edition will double in size as well as exhibitor numbers,â€? Mr Devesh Patel, Head – Exhibition Cell at SGCCI added. For more details please visit https://yarnexpo.sgcci.in/ About SGCCI: The Southern Gujarat Chamber Of Commerce and Indus > ¢<<ZQ Z * Š‚‚^'’‚‚‹ ˆ tablished in the year 1940, it is the oldest apex trade body of Gujarat, with a total focus on growth and development of trade and industry of Southern Gujarat region from Bharuch to Vapi and Umargaon. SGCCI has a strong base of more than 8,500 direct members, 111 associations and indirect membership of more than 80,000, from a wide spectrum of trade and industry. SGCCI organises several textiles, gem & jewellery, handloom & handcrafts, automobile, engineering, heavy industries and also showcases products and services from women entrepreneurs.

Apart from Surat, buyers came from several parts of India and also overseas countries, which include, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Italy, Dubai, Iran, Turkey, etc. The number of foreign buyers reached 208. The exhibitors displayed a wide variety and the latest bres like cotton, polyester, wool, silk, linen, viscose, ramie, spandex, airtex, catonic and also blended as well as dyed yarns. Yarns on show included various types of fancy and specialty yarns like elastic, metallic, embroidery, textured, " Âł torque, space dyed and many other varieties. “Despite that Surat is the biggest textile hub in India, only

September 2018

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45

ASSOCIATION NEWS

CITI ANNOUNCES GLOBAL TEXTILES CONCLAVE 2018 – AS PART OF CITI DIAMOND JUBILEE CELEBRATIONS Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) which is one of the leading industry chambers of the textile and clothing sector of India and represents the major leading regional & industry associations and 18 major corporate members, is organising CITI Global Textiles Conclave 2018 (GTC 2018) on 27th – 28th November 2018 in Vigyan Bhawan, New Delhi. Shri Sanjay K Jain, Chairman, CITI informed that GTC 2018 is part of CITI Diamond Jubilee Celebrations as CITI has completed its 60 years of service to the T&C Industry and to the Nation as well. He stated that the theme of the event is “Disruptions and Innovations for Sustainable Growth�. Shri Jain further stated that during this two-day long event, interactions with global T&C businessmen, buyerseller meet, exhibitions, award function, launch of special publication and reports covering the entire journey of the CITI and T&C industry will be showcased. In nutshell, it will cover the entire textile value chain from “FARM to FASHION� and will be one of the largest ever Textile Industry events. Shri Jain further highlighted that the event will not only " very select group of 800-1000 peers from global textile & clothing industry, but will also provide them a platform to brainstorm, share and gain key insights over a period of 2 days into the present and future of this resurging, dynamic sector. He further pointed out that GTC 2018 will be delineating the disruptive ideas, innovative technologies and best practices for a sustainable growth in the textile and clothing industry. It will have separate Sessions with “Partner States�, “Partner Countries� and Senior Govern *!

Shri Jain stated that CITI has invited Shri Narendra Modi, Hon’ble Prime Minister to inaugurate the GTC 2018 on 27th November 2018 and Shri Venkaiah Naidu, Hon’ble Vice President to deliver the Valedictory Address on 28th November 2018. Shri Jain also informed that Shri Suresh Prabhu, Hon’ble Union Minister of Commerce & Industry and Civil Aviation and Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Union Minister of +

* ! policy makers & trade experts from Ministries of Textiles, Finance, Commerce, Agriculture, Labour, etc. are also being invited to deliberate on important policy aspects. Further top speakers from across the globe would be participating in the deliberations. Some of the leading inter Mr. Kihak Sung, Chairman, Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI), Republic of Korea, Mr. Han Bekke, President, International Apparel Federation, Netherland, Mr. Mark Green, Executive Vice President, PVH Far East, Hong Kong and Dr. Christian Schindler, Director General, International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Switzerland. Shri Jain concluded by saying that we are expecting a huge turnout of delegates not only from India, Asia but also from other parts of the world. He also stated that more than 72 international associations have been invited, including China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC), Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BGMEA), Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (VINATEX), and some important MOUs are also expected to be signed.

CITI LAUNCHES INNOTEX 2018 – AN INNOVATION CONTEST FOR T&C INDUSTRY First time in the history of Indian Textiles & Clothing, an innovation contest for T & C Industry has been launched in India. One of the apex bodies in Textiles & Clothing, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has taken the lead to create an innovation culture in Indian T&C, by launching “InnoTex 2018�. Shri Sanjay K Jain, Chairman, CITI stated that the contest will invite entries on innovative ideas/concept that has been devised for best design, method, process, product and cost reduction in any area from Ginning to Garment. He further stated that CITI Young Entrepreneurs Group (YEG) under the Chairmanship of Shri Prashant Mohota, has been entrusted with the task of organising InnoTex. YEG, which is an integral

46

part of CITI has been formed for nurturing young minds/ talent of the Textiles & Clothing Industry into dynamic leaders of tomorrow. Further, Mr Jain was happy to announce that North India Textile Research Association (NITRA) as the Knowledge Partner of InnoTex 2018. He said having a premier research institute like NITRA as Knowledge Partner will help in proper evaluation of the applications and provide guidance to the applicants. J ! Z + ’‚^‹ can be viewed through the following link http://www.citiindia.com/innotex2018/

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September 2018

ASSOCIATION NEWS COTTON ASSN OF INDIA (CAI)’S PRESIDENT - SHRI ATUL GANATRA’S SPEECH ON MOU BETWEEN CAI AND BSE FOR COTTON FUTURES ON 5TH SEPT.18 WEDNESDAY AT BSE MUMBAI. Respected Shri Pashabhai Patel, Chairman State Agriculture Price Commission, and Shri Ashish Kumar Chauhan, CEO of BSE, Shri Samirbhai, BSE and other dignitaries from Bombay Stock Exchange, my fellow colleagues of CAI Board, CAI members and cotton friends, Ladies and Gentlemen, It gives me immense pleasure to welcome you all on this momentous occasion of agreement signing ceremony. For Future trading cotton in India has a very long and rich history. In fact it will be of interest to you all that many of the modern day concepts prevailing in the commodity futures world-over owe their origin to cotton futures trading in India. Once upon a time CAI (earlier called East India Cotton Association) had a thriving futures contract. CAI was having a trading ring at Kalbadevi Cotton Exchange and it was a hub of cotton futures activity where even in those days arbitrage used to take place with the New York Cotton Exchange. Our forefathers had perfected and mastered the art of ! the twin objectives that is price discovery and managing risk. In fact, the CAI’s Cotton Exchange was the largest in Asia and third largest in the world. Sadly it died down because people thought this is just a satta. I am indeed happy to state that situation today has undergone a sea-change for the better. There are user-friendly policies in place and I believe there will be no better times than now to embark on this new endeavour of promoting cotton futures. It is really heartening to see that the BSE, which is India’s number 1 and the world’s 10th largest stock exchange has realized this and taken upon itself the mantle of providing an ideal futures trading platform to the cotton community. I sincerely believe that this is a landmark development and it will add a new chapter in the history of cotton fu Z greatly from this platform. This Bombay Stock Exchange all India futures contract will help specially Indian cotton growing farmers to get best rate for their production of cotton as well as Indian exporters and Indian spinning mills this platform will provide huge hedging facilities which is now lacking in Indian cotton future market. On behalf of the CAI, we are happy to associate ourselves

September 2018

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with this huge initiative of BSE and our endeavour will be „ ˆ ! = economical cotton trading platform which is within the reach of a common cotton trader. Friends, as you all are aware, CAI is the parent body of 17 regional associations representing all cotton growing regions of the country. As an apex cotton body, it represents the interests of the entire cotton value chain in India namely growers, Ginners, traders, exporters, importers, brokers, mills and service providers. Z ! cotton bodies. It has its own building in 4 acre land at cot ’’‚ ! its members to provide them a market-place for conducting their cotton trading activity. CAI has 12 cotton testing laboratories across all major <ŽZ " Z CAI maintains cotton grade standards which are universally acclaimed. CAI also provides a platform for dispute resolution. The CAI maintains monthly crop estimates and arrives at supply demand numbers of cotton on monthly basis. Recently, CAI has decided to set up a farmers training centre at its historical Cotton Exchange Building at Cotton Green and allotted a budget of Rs.1.25 crores to be spent for the purpose within the next 5 years. As representative body of the entire cotton trade, CAI is interested in promoting futures trading in cotton for the Z " „ ˆ futures trading platform and decided to enter into a MoU. With its long and rich experience and long reach, the CAI will strive to serve the interests of each and every segment in the cotton value chain. CAI will also extend its full cooperation to BSE by making available its infrastructure for use thereof by the market participants. I am indeed thankful to each one of you for accepting my request and remaining present here today at such a short notice to witness history in the making. I complement the Team BSE and their CEO Shri Ashish Kumar ji Chauhan for their wonderful initiative. On behalf of all my colleagues on the CAI Board, all our members and on my own behalf, I wish the Team BSE all the best and assure them of our fullest cooperation.

47

SHOW CALENDAR SEPTEMBER 2018 22-24

TEMTECH 2018 Bhilwara / Rajasthan www.temtechindia.com

25-27

InterDye & Textile Printing Istanbul/ Turkey www.interdyeprinting.com

November 2018

26-29

ALLTEX-THE WORLD OF TEXTILE 2018 Kiev/ Ukraine http://alltex-expo.com.ua/en/

1-4

FESTIVAL OF CRAFTS – 2018 Calgary, Canada http://festivalofcrafts.ca/

27-29

Yarnex Tirupur/India http://yarnex.in

3-11

MODE HEIM HANDWERK 2018 Essen, Germany MESSE ESSEN GmbH

27-30

MODEXPO 2018 Bucharest/ Romania Romexpo Exhibition Centre B2 Pavilion

6-8

MAREDIMODA CANNES 2018 Palais des Festivals https://www.maredimoda.com/en/home-en/

7-11

LOS ANGELES MAJORS MARKET-2018 California Market Center (CMC) http://www.cmcdtla.com/majors/majors.php

BAZAAR BERLIN – 2018 Messe, Berlin https://www.bazaar-berlin.de/en/

2-14

FASHION INDUSTRY EXHIBITION 2018 Saint Petersburg Sports and Concert Complex Saint Petersburg/Russia

International Apparel & Textile Fair Dubai/UAE http://internationalapparelandtextilefair.com/

13-14

INTERNATIONAL FASHION EXPO 2018 Chisinau/Moldova International Exhibition Centre MoldExpo

REMODE LOS ANGELES https://remode.com/

14-16

Intex South Asia 2017 Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.intexfair.com/

October 2018 1-3

4-7

4-7

10-11

10-11

10-11

15-17

15-19

4th International Conference on Nonwovens Cannes, France https://www.technical-textiles.online/ NHPA/content/sign-more-information NHPA 2018 CANNES/FRANCE https://www.technical-textiles.online/NHPA/ TEXTILE FORUM FASHION FABRIC SHOW 2018 One Marylebone http://www.textileforum.org.uk/registration/ YARN EXPO AUTUMN 2018 Shanghai, China https://yarn-expo-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt. com/shanghai/en/visitors/welcome.html ITMA ASIA +CITME 2018 Shanghai, China http://www.itmaasia.com

17-19

OUTLOOKâ„¢ Dubrovnik

23-15

FEBRATEXTILE 2018 Sao Paulo / Brazil

26-27

Global Cotton Conclave Goa/ India

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15-18

Big Fab 2018 Dhaka / Bangladesh https://www.redcarpet365.com

20-22

INTERNATIONAL SOURCING EXPO AUSTRAILA Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre, Australia https://www.internationalsourcingexpo.com/

23-25

Clothing Machinery Expo 2018 Ahmedabad www.essentialtradefairs.com

21-24

VTG Ho Chi Minh City/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com

December 2018 04-05

Filtrex Asia Shanghai/ China ' ’‚^Œ 5-7

The 19th Guangzhou China International Shoes Fair China http://www.ruihongfair.com/

6-9

MTG YCC / Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com/mtg

www.textilevaluechain.com

September 2018

INTERVIEW

1) What inspire you to Start A Company in Textile and what is Purpose behind it? Starting year of business, Mission / Vision

N. R. Balachandra Managing Partner

A burning desire to be an entrepreneur from an employee is a driving force behind the starting of an own company, apart from providing goods and service, we pro-actively support entire value chain for developing new product and best VIU (Value in Use) to leverage the maximum potential of the products supplied. We started our company in the month of January 2016 as an ambassador of INVISTA in India with a mission of high level responsibility to defend and grow the INVISTA’s 60 years old strong global consumer validated brand LYCRAŽ Fiber in India. Smartext vision is 100% commitment to follow our guiding principles {Integrity, compliance, customer focus, value creation, accepting change, respect to all, humility &

Âś the front-line service provider in selling and marketing " Z 2) What all Challenges / Hardship you faced during the journey?

Sasi Kumar Managing Partner

September 2018

www.textilevaluechain.com

Leaving an established long professional career with a well-known multinational company behind and setting up something at our own was not an easy task. However, in our case the great support from INVISTA and timely

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guidance from team leaders helped us to a large extent to face and overcome all initial challenges. We also able to get right talents and right infrastructure with a supporting team for our organization meet the market expectations. 3) What all opportunities & Achievement your brand received till date? With started with the initial nervousness to perform better and add value to the international brand like LYCRAŽ Fiber industry but our valuable customers given a great support in the last two and half years, to grow the business and enhance LYCRAŽ Fiber brand equity in the Indian market place. There are leading brands like Levi’s India, VF India, Jockey India, FBB and Allen-Solley continued to show the great trust in INVISTA LYCRAŽ Fiber brand by launching new garment range every year on the other side the leading mills like Arvind Ltd, Vardhman Group, Raymond, Banswara and Hemlon are actively supported the downstream customers with quality fabrics & yarn with INVISTA products. 4) What are your 7P’s of marketing mix? With the active support of INVISTA leadership team we constantly support Indian market to grow their both Domestic & Export business with great level of commitment through the world class product quality coupled with many other supports like innovation, product development, co-promotion & joint product launches in the market place. INVISTA also support Indian mills with the pull business from international big apparel brands. 5) What has been your approach towards product innovation? Research & Development strategies? INVISTA being globally known for innovation market leadership, our responsibility to bring those innovations to the right partners in India with know-how on product development & bringing to India market. 6) How has your company kept pace with technological upgradation over the years? Although we are in service industry we have made our " the market to service our esteemed customers across India. We also do get tremendous technical supports from INVISTA.

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! "#$ % ! "#$ % ' We whole heartedly welcomed GST – the new tax regime. We are one among the early adopters of this system with 100% compliance. Integrity & compliance being way of our life and we witness GST system made our business transaction smooth and hassle free. 8) What are the current issues being faced by Fibre and yarn segment? Do you have any suggestions for improvement? In our point of view Indian textile industry that too, upstream value chain members like yarn mills & process houses are very slow in adopting a new technologies & investment in product development/ innovation for example INVISTA patented dual core yarn production system in spite of having a great potential Indian mill are still slow in adopting new technology. In our point of view a better focus on innovation & R&D can help great way to mills to develop value added and performance products both for international and domestic markets. 9) What is your take on the future scenario of your segment in the domestic as well as global market? We see a tremendous growth opportunity for INVISTA " years. With a cultural change and increased men and women going to work place, we see tremendous growth in stretch garments. Also, quality stretch fabrics requirement brings a great opportunity for INVISTA LYCRAŽ Fiber & INVISTA LYCRAŽ T400Ž Fiber. The current trend is also for fashion with function which again brings opportunity for INVISTA technology platforms like DualFXŽ, LYCRAŽ Beauty, LYCRAŽ Sports, LYCRAŽ Black technology, COOLMAXŽ Fabrics & THERMOLITEŽ Fabrics. 10) Where do you see your company in next 5 and 10 years? } proach towards creating value to principles and entire textile value chain will keep us growing more than the market growth.

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore

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www.textilevaluechain.com

September 2018

Daily

Oerlikon Innovation Forum in hall 2, B24 – come and see

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From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment with the product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag is the world market leader for filament spinning systems, texturing machines and BCF carpet yarn, staple fiber spinning as well as nonwovens solutions.

Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment welcomes you to the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 in Shanghai, China, October 15-19, 2018 in hall 2, B24.

For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers

Spinning

Creeling

Drying

Cutting

Continuous Polycondensation Transfer Line

Gear Metering Pumps Spinning/ Quenching Take-up/Winding

Doffing

Drawing/Cooling

POC

Plant Operation Center

PCS

Process Control System

September 2018

Baling

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POC

Plant Operation Center

Texturing

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SIRIUS TWISTING TECHNOLOGY

Excellence through time

Sirius represents the Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-forone twisting, ensuring high structural standardization, a wide range of feeding and spindle dimensions for every yarn type and count. The electronic solutions simplify the operator intervention, allowing to obtain every possible combination of parameters in order to reach the best output working condition.

SIMPLE, RELIABLE STATE OF THE ART TWISTING

Excellence through time Marketed by: A.T.E. ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED A-19, CTS No 689,Veera Desai Road Andheri (West) Mumbai - 400053, India Tel: +91-22-66766100 E-mail: spinning@ateindia.com

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Cosmos represents a further Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-for-one twisting, ensuring maximum cost-effectiveness of the technological process through manufacturing solutions that allow a reduction in investment with a minimum of energy consumption. In this way, the machine productivity, the quality of the end product, the technological flexibility are maximized together with low investment cost.

SAVIO INDIA LTD. Nallattipalayam, Tamaraikulam - Post Pollachi, Coimbatore - 642109 Tamil Nadu, India Tel. +91 4259 304555-Fax +91 4259 304567 E-mail: mail@savioindia.in

SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A. Via Udine, 105, 33170 Pordenone, Italy Tel. +39 0434 3971 Fax +39 0434 397599 www.textilevaluechain.com www.saviospa.it

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