Cotton: The White Gold (April 2021) by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

VOLUME 9 | ISSUE NO. 4 | RS 100 | Pages 66 ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

APRIL 2021

COTTON: THE WHITE GOLD

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COVER STORY

MARCH 2021

COVER STORY

MARCH 2021

COVER STORY

MARCH 2021

CONTENTS 07 INTERVIEW

Textile Sector has immense opportunity in India; Experts from Taiwan addressed in a webinar organized by TAITRA

In Conversation with Atul Ganatra

NNF Fashion Trends 2021-22

Entwining for Eco-friendly Garms: Lenzing with Florian Heubrandner and Tricia Carey

COVER STORY

The Training History and Variety of Cotton by Kshipra Gadey

Self-awareness: The First Step in Becoming an Effective Leader by Rajiv Misra

Organic Cotton: Need of the Hour by Kumari Nayantara Singh

Yarn Export Up 79PC in March, Cotton Takes Lead by Nitin Madkaikar

Sustainable Agriculture for Benefiting Environment, Economy and Industry by Manish Daga

Tale of the Indian White Gold by Kshipra Gadey

Sculpting Impeccability with Arup Rakshit

Non-woven Cotton Textile by Khyati Sutaria

Cotton- The Indian Heritage Textiles by Annu Jain

Antibacterial Finished Cotton by Aishwarya Gavade and Sandeep Vishwakarma

30 32 39

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

Clothing from Qmonos Fibres by Dr. N. N. Mahapatra

PROJECT

Outline of a New $30 MLN Project by Munish Tyagi

51 53 57

Career Scope in Textile Engineering by Sathish Veeraraghavan

HR FOCUS

YARN REPORT

FIBRE REPORT

Fibre Prices Ease in April, but Showed Signs of Stabilizing

MARKET REPORT

An Overview of Mitumba Market in Kenya between 2016-20 by Kshipra Gadey and Radhika Boddu

US Knitted and Woven Apparel Imports by Radhika Boddu

FASHION UPDATE

NEWS

Kelheim Fibers joins the ZDHC “Guide to Zero” Program

Nilit Launches Sustainable Fiber

Fashion Shift: Clothing Reimagined by Thomas. O. S. Ong

Cotton Utilization

PEER REVIEWED PAPER

Property Enhancement of Cotton Nonwovens using Ecofriendly Bioactive Terminalia Chebulla by Dr. A. J. Shukla and Prof. (Dr) M. D. Teli

43 DYES AND CHEMICALS

The Natural Tinge by Kinjal Rate

CAREER GUIDANCE

EVENT UPDATE

“VINIRMAH-2K21” FASHION SHOW- VIRTUAL

Maire Technimont Awarded EPCC Contract

Fibertex to extend European Tasks

Cone Denim to Produce Nearly 3 Million

ADVERTISER INDEX Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Savio Front Inside: Rimtex Page 3: LRT Page 4: Malegaon Conference, Textile Value Chain APRIL 2021

EDITORIAL

Cotton Saga: Organic Journey ! Cotton, a natural fibre, farmer’s white gold ! The wonder of a blooming flower that gives rise to a fruit, that matures to burst open to a fluffy ball of seed hair, Cotton fibres!. Truly one of Nature’s wonders !!! Such is the quality of fibres, that can be spun into yarns, woven or knitted to fabric to clothe mankind in all seasons! Evolution of human clothing itself is quite inspiring. From Tree leaves to animal skins, to spun, woven to stitched garments. Discovery of fibres from plants like cotton has played an important role in the evolution of cotton textiles. Probably, Cotton was the first fibre made from plants, so it is used as a generic name for any fibre. Cotton, a commodity, a fibre, a flower, a fruit, a cloth, a garment, feed for animals … one name with many benefits. India’s geographical location and climatic conditions are the important reasons why agriculture is a major occupation in this country. Cotton cultivation is a major occupation. India remains a significant producer and exporter of Cotton. The journey of cotton as a fibre, started in India from the handloom sector. Cotton spinning started with Charkha, popularised during the Swadeshi Movement. Hand spun cotton to handloom technology. Advances in spinning cotton with technology in each stage like picking, sorting, ginning, spinning led to a fruitful journey. Quality, cost and yield of cotton grown by different countries the world over is subject of research. Long staple Cotton fibre will give the highest good quality Cotton and has better spin-ability. India lacks sufficient long staple fibre production due to the non-availability of seeds. India produces Cotton of staple length around 28-29 mm length of cotton, while many advanced countries of the world produce 30 mm to 35 mm cotton. Indian cotton of 30 mm quality is branded “Kasturi Cotton” which caters to only 5% of the production. Naturally coloured Cotton is quite exciting and is in trend; as it will be purely in its organic form, no dyes and chemicals are used for colouration. The World is moving towards sustainability, vegan, saving of planet movement. There is growing awareness of harmful substances created by humans that are affecting the planet. World is moving from where it started from the root to advances and back to the root. Organic to Organic Journey ! Organic Coloured Cotton has a lot of potential, Industry can explore opportunities in furthering research and develop new products! Indian enterprises have a great chance to fill in void Indian Cotton business sectors!! We wish you Cool Summers !!!

JIGNA SHAH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

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INTERVIEW

SCULPTING IMPECCABILITY ARUP RAKSHIT Textile Expert

Share your Education and Professional Journey I started my professional life with cotton spinning mill after graduation from University of Calcutta. After a few years I switched to higher studies and started my first academic assignment with Government Central Textile Institute (currently UPTTI), Kanpur. After completing Ph.D. from IIT Delhi, I joined VJTI, Mumbai in 1989, to begin with my academic career. I continued with VJTI till 1997. At this juncture, it was felt that only classroom teaching and in-house research will not be enough to understand the requirement of the industry, both for the present and future. I joined SASMIRA (Synthetic & Art Silk Mills’ Research Association, Worli, Mumbai) in 1997, a leading Textile Research Organization in Mumbai to pursue a career in research administration. That remains instrumental in popularising the then emerging field of ‘Technical Textiles’ in India. A proposal for introduction of technical textiles in India was prepared for ‘Empowered Committee on Technical Textiles (ECTT)’ and submitted to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India for consideration. It later translated into the National programme and is a mission today. A concerted effort introduced by the Ministry of Textiles, gradually helped establish ‘Centre of Excellences’ in technical textiles across the country. I had managed more than 60 research projects sponsored by various agencies viz. Ministry of Textiles, Ministry of Defence, DST and Industry with the

help of a pool of qualified Scientists. Besides large numbers of publications, I obtained one Patent in my credit. The research career offered ample opportunities like sourcing and handling projects, consultation with industry, development of laboratories through outside funding, image building exercises for the organisation, strategizing internal engagement and development of scientist group, developing and manufacturing of textile testing instruments etc. Another opportunity was to be associated with top ranking international financial agencies to prepare Technical Viability study reports under Debt Restructuring Package (GOI) for four companies those were referred to The Board for Industrial and Financial Reconstruction (BIFR). The Power loom Service Centre (PSC) in Bhiwandi was also under my fold. This being one of the largest power loom cluster in India and being at the vicinity of office of Textile Commissioner, Mumbai; it used to be the platform for launching many schemes for the unorganised sector of Textile Industry in India. I served as an Editor for Man Made Textiles in India; a leading textile journal published by SASMIRA for more than a year. I am a Peer Reviewer for Textile Research Journal (TRJ), USA and Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research (IJFTR), published by CSIR, India. In collaboration with FICCI, monograph series on different fields of technical textiles have been published. More than a dozen seminars, symposiums, conferences, colloquium, training

programme and interactive talks were organised to support textile industry for diversification or to encourage part investment to technical products. In 2008 VJTI management invited me to re-join and continue the legacy of the oldest Department of the institute. I was placed in different capacities e.g., as Professor, Head of Department and Dean R&D. My active areas of interest were nonwovens, technical textiles, sports textiles, geotech, lean manufacturing, management of textile industry etc. My diverse experience helped me to set a time bound plan and strategic development of the department and the Institute (VJTI) in general. Academic development activities like the introduction of new courses and electives (industry relevant specific subject), MOU with other institutions, Collaborative research projects, accreditation of courses, industry sponsored laboratory development, customised corporate training programme, higher internal revenue generation through commercial testing services, tactical way to improved pay package for students, mobilisation of alumni association for department development and students’ placement etc. All these had been over and above the routine administrative activities of managing the department, addressing students’ grievances and counselling. Being an educationist, what was your journey in industry and interaction During the early 2000s, FICCI used to render technical support to specific group of industries. I was Consultant to Federation of Indian Chamber

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INTERVIEW

of Commerce & Industries – FICCI’s Western Regional Council for Textile Industry. I had a lengthy association with BIS and was member of various committees’ viz technical textiles, geotextiles, fabric forming etc. It was a pride and pleasure to be associated with Research Advisory Committee (RAC) of Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA) and Wool Research Association (WRA). Their annual meetings were to set a pathway for the research projects and new developments of the year. Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association (TMMA) Mumbai used to offer award to best performing Member Company for their in-house technical development or commercialisation of new machinery. For nearly a decade I was member of their Research Awards Committee along with stalwarts from industry and academia. I was associated with Department of Science and Technology (DST) for evaluation of two schemes viz. Special Assistance Programme (SAP) and project proposals for Instrument Development Programme (IDP). For AICTE also I had contributed towards examining proposals for various schemes in research, faculty visit abroad etc. Opportunity came in to travel overseas with various assignments like training, University Collaboration, Research Collaboration etc. to UK in 2001, Europe (Germany, France & Netherland) in 2008 and Czech Republic, Austria in 2011; Mauritius & South Africa (Durban, Cape Town, Port Elizabeth & Johannesburg) in 2013. I was Ph.D. Examiner for many Universities and Institutes of national importance of which IIT Delhi, IIT Bombay, NIT Jalandhar, SNDT Women’s University, Mumbai, M.S.University, Vadodara etc. are to name a few. I was invited to be the search committee member for SVITS, Indore. Through this journey of academic and research career, lot of support from different quarters, made me learn the art of managing and negotiating with agencies that led to the development of the organisations I served. Research and academic process offer a plethora of opportunities and professional en-

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gagement, one can enjoy working with. Being in the industry for quite a long time and now as College Principal, how different is the feeling and experience? Starting as a classroom teacher to managing research centre, project, consultancyy and then as Professor, Head and Dean of a prominent institute, it was a progressive career. Each phase made me learn different skill sets, that are useful to contribute completeness in the organisation as a whole or the department. Collaboration with other institutions (both in India and abroad) and agencies including corporate training is an exemplary experience. As Principal, it is an extension of service in the career spanning over the decades. From a textile background I took over the charge of a College that runs UG programmes in mechanical, electrical, electronics, civil engineering, and computer science courses. Strategic approach for institution building, student centric developments, welfare measures on all fronts, faculty development schemes, satisfying requirements of approving or affiliating authorities (AICTE/University) etc are the key activities as the Principal. Complete managerial and financial decisions are key issues to be addressed. Besides, stakeholders’ response and queries are to be handled diligently. At every stage, to adopt innovative and creative approach in strategy and planning works best; to build confidence among the faculty and students, promotion of research culture, grooming and motivating faculty members towards research was a task. As a Mentor, what qualities, capabilities do you see in your Ph.D students Universities in India choose two schemes for the PhD students. One, full time students with scholarship and the other as part-time sponsored candidate (QIP etc.). Students with an urge to learn, to truly enrich their academic credentials and research, do not bother about the financial loss or gain, join full time. The topics and the content delivered by these students towards their doctoral programme contain a certain level of quality as compared to the part

timers. The education system has a set of career development programmes and all QIP candidates wait eagerly to get their turn. Moreover, the government pays them a stipend for the duration of Ph.D programme; which is over and above the salary they receives from their institution. Therefore, their goals are to somehow obtain the degree and acquire promotion. Therefore, it is apt to consider candidate who has a true zeal to excel in his own field, work independently, confident and possess certain skill sets like communication, whether it is in written form or oral presentation. The Education industry has changed by 360 degrees from classroom to online teaching-learning, what is the trouble faced by professors / teachers and students. Any change in the conventional process should have a resistance… and the current scenario is not an exception. It is true that the trainer and trainees’ physical presence and interaction gives the best result, but if the situation does not permit, one has to adopt a new system. In the beginning of the pandemic, last year, things had almost collapsed. Then digital delivery process came into being and now it is a way of life. Except for practical classes where a student needs to handle some equipment, instruments or chemicals, majority of the experiments went in demo mode and examination and evaluation process changed accordingly. In future the education system would continue in mixed mode, partially physical and the remaining virtual. Let us take an example, those who have learnt driving in an advanced training school; ibeing exposed to simulators in the beginning and then take them to the vehicle or as it happens for pilot training in aviation industry. Our systems and process would also adopt the same in future. In classroom teaching, which was more one way delivery from the teacher, the teacher could examine the level of learning in students through their gestures and class interaction, the online delivery is more based on feedback and short assessments after every module to ensure that requisite level of learning has taken place. Here lies the con-

INTERVIEW trast. The teaching process has been upgraded to teaching-learning process, where students’ participation and feedback are equally important, even if the learning is done either in objective mode or exhaustively in an open book manner. Just look at the format coaching classes have adopted. Within a year’s time, they have gone online or ‘through app’ delivery. A central classroom studio caters to the nationwide micro classrooms. We need to respect and adopt the new system, there is no respite.

Share your opinion on Future of Education as an Industry, its opportunity, and threats Education is the fundamental need to build a nation; therefore, it can never die; only issue is how much priority it receives from the government. In India, at the school level, different boards are prevailing and the process of course delivery is equally diverse. Therefore, the students’ understanding, and maturity level varies. At the secondary and tertiary level of education the students are unable to cope up

with the challenges. Homogeneity is required. However, Indian students are very competitive on the international platform. It is an opportunity for our education system to recognise the gaps and fulfil the same with a fresh Policy. Indian schooling and higher education system need to be overhauled to fill the same. Besides, threat from the overseas is obvious. And the approaches of the New Education Policy (NEP) is to combat the problem and to rationalise the entire education system; not only intra and inter board, but to be at par with international standards.

NEWS

COTTON UTILIZATION TO DROP BY 8% BECAUSE OF CURRENT COVID-19 WAVE Cotton utilization is required to drop by somewhat more than 8% because of the current Covid-19 wave and resulting lockdowns in a few states, as indicated by India's top cotton crop appraisal organization. Cotton utilization for season 2020-21 (October to September) has been decreased by the Union Ministry of Textiles' Committee on Cotton Production and Consumption (COCPC) from 330 lakh bundles (every one of 170 kg) to 303 lakh parcels, attributable to the ebb and flow lockdowns as the limit second rush of Covid has grasped the whole country. The anticipated cotton shutting stock has been raised from 98.79 lakh parcels to 118.79 lakh bunches toward the finish of the period on September 30, 2021, as indicated by the COCPC meeting hung on April 30. Fares are required to endure a mishap The COCPC, which took over from the previous Cotton Advisory Board (CAB) in September 2020, has additionally decreased the conjecture cotton crea-

tion for the season from 371 lakh bundles to 360 lakh bunches. In spite of the fact that cotton imports are relied upon to stay level at 11 lakh bundles for the year, trades are required to drop from 75 lakh parcels to 70 lakh bunches, contrasted with prior assessments of 75 lakh bundles. "The planting space of Indian cotton has been raised from 133.73 lakh hectares to 134.77 lakh hectares. The greatest shift was in Punjab, where planting was diminished from 3.92 lakh hectares to 2.48 lakh hectares, while it rose from 6.37 lakh hectares to 8.17 lakh hectares in Karnataka, as per COCPC. The general cotton creation for the year 2020-21, which started on October 1, 2020, is relied upon to be 491.79 lakh parcels, with a surmised opening supply of 120.79 lakh bundles. This incorporates 360 lakh parcels of harvest and 11 lakh bundles of imports notwithstanding the initial stock. "The planting space of Indian cotton has been raised from 133.73 lakh

hectares to 134.77 lakh hectares. The greatest shift was in Punjab, where planting was diminished from 3.92 lakh hectares to 2.48 lakh hectares, while it rose from 6.37 lakh hectares to 8.17 lakh hectares in Karnataka, as per COCPC. The general cotton creation for the year 2020-21, which started on October 1, 2020, is required to be 491.79 lakh parcels, with an inexact opening load of 120.79 lakh bunches. This incorporates 360 lakh parcels of yield and 11 lakh bundles of imports notwithstanding the initial stock. Complete interest is required to be 373 lakh parcels, with 303 lakh bundles devoured locally and 70 lakh bunches sent out. Cotton exchange body Cotton Association of India (CAI) has assessed India's cotton creation for the year at 360 lakh parcels, which is equivalent to COCPC's projection. Nonetheless, net interest is relied upon to be 330 lakh parcels this year, leaving an end load of 106 lakh bundles.

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INTERVIEW

IN CONVERSATION WITH... ATUL GANATRA

Cotton Association is occupied with giving a wide scope of administrations to the whole cotton value chain since its fuse in 1921. All fragments of the cotton exchange and material industry of the nation including Mill Buyers, Growers and Growers Co-agents, Ginners, Brokers, Merchants, Importers and Exporters, and so forth are addressed in CAI. 17 Regional Cotton Associations and 4 Co-employable Marketing Societies addressing all heartland cotton creating areas of the Country are subsidiary with CAI and addressed on its Board as Associate Directors. Addressed on different International Cotton Fora for example ICAC, ICA, CICCA, IFCP, ITMF and a few other International Cotton Associations.

Journey of CAI Presidentship I am serving my 4th year as an Elected President in CAI. The journey has been enriching with good learning experience. I am extremely glad and honoured to be the President of this huge pres-tigious association. Our Association is now entered into its 100th year. Association has started in year 1922 with the name of East India Cotton association. We have all cotton value chain as our members like farmers, ginners, spinners, brokers, traders, exporters and Govt agencies. During my Presidentship tenure, we have done a lot of good work for cotton industry. We have organised 4 domestic conferences and one International conference. Recently, we have started farmers training school in our cotton exchange building. Our cotton testing lab has been enhanced. We have purchased 2 new cotton testing machines. Our association has cotton testing lab in al-most all cotton growing states and our testing charges are very nominal compared to private test-ing labs;

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as an Association we want to serve to the trade. Cotton Industry Update This year as per CAI the size of Indian crop is 360 lakh bales and per CAB, 371 lakh bales out of this (upto 25th April) around 337 lakh bales have arrived. Now approximately 25-30 lakh bales cotton on all India level is lying unsold with the farmers. But due to increase in covid 19 cases most of the ginning factories in India are closed so the farmers have to wait to sell. Indian markets are steady at Rs. 42000 to Rs.47000 / bale spot price according to the quality. But if there is a strict lockdown, like last year, then the price of cotton will reduce because as of today, there is no buying at all from Indian spinning mills. As mills have covered cotton for 3 to 4 months and now mills want to wait and watch to see how their production will be, in the coming months and also in India is a big amount of unsold cotton stock lying with government agencies, ginners, traders and MNCs.

Price on 1st October 2020 for cotton variety of 29 mm was Rs. 40,000 per candy. Slowly the de-mand picked up, and the rate has increased to 46,000 spot, also International cotton market has gone up 73 cents to 88 cents at the same time. Future of cotton growing farmers Future of cotton looks very bright. Because GOI every year has been increasing Minimum Support Price (MSP) of cotton, which as on 30th April, 2021 is 5825 per quintal. And MSP likely to in-crease 3-4 percent in June 2021. Govt. agency like CCI and Maharashtra Federation is buying around 100 lakhs from last 2 years from farmer on MSP rate. So, farmers are feeling very secure by growing cotton in India. due to increase in MSP price and government’s purchase of cotton at MSP price from farmers. In India, near future cotton prices are likely to maintain in between Rs. 42,000 to 48000 per candy as per quality. At present, Shakar 6 cotton with 29 mm 75 RD rate is Rs. 46,000 per candy.

INTERVIEW

ton sowing seed for ELS should be allowed for farmers.

Cotton developing ranchers saved during lockdown time in a year ago 2020 because of government office nonstop acquisition of cotton on MSP rate.

2) To encourage Indian farmers to grow ELS cotton our MSP price should be announced at higher rate at Rs. 9000 per quintal, before the new season cotton sowing starts.

Effect of Covid 19 on Cotton Ginning and Spinning industry Definitely, there has been a great effect seen of covid 19 pandemic on both this industryies. Actu-ally last year 2020 cotton ginning factories were almost closed from April to July 2020. The Indi-an spinning mills have also suffered huge production loss. The consumption of cotton by spinning mills in India reduced from 330 lakh bales to 250 lakh bales. Also last year cotton prices were dropped from Rs. 42,000 to Rs. 32,000 per bale due to lockdown. Cotton Brokers also had a very tough time during lock down, entire business was closed. But once covid effect reduced, business for traders and brokers improved, as cotton demand increased and India and international markets. Last year from 25th March to 25th July exports shipment was shut down. The last 6 months was a very good period for Indian spinning mills, because there was a huge shortage of cotton yarn, due to last year’s lockdown and big demand of yarn has come from Indian and international markets. So, spinning mills have performed well. From Sept. to March 2020 as pandemic was under control, ginning and spinning performed very good but again from April 2021 due to second wave of covid 19, Now, most of the State ginning factory are closed, spinning mills production reduced to 10 percent to 50 percent State-wise due to migration of the labourand fear of strict lockdown like last year in the coming days. If the labours go back to their houses, then spinning mill production will be hit and the consumption of cotton will also reduce. Last year, Indian cotton consumption was reduced by 80 lakh bales from 330 lakh bales to 250 lakh bales with the same reason of lockdown so everyone in the trade have to keep a watch over the pandamic. Views on fluctuation of Indian Cotton yarn prices Cotton yarn price was Rs. 170 per kg

for 30’s hosiery count in June 2020 but after lockdown, the demand of yarn has been increased and price has slowly increased and touched to Rs. 280 per kg. As Demand came from domestic and International and yarn market has gone up by 45-50 percent during Sept. 2020 to March 2021. Spinning mill has made losses in lockdown but luckily recov-ered losses of lock down period during last 6 months. It was a good time for the entire industry like ginning. spinning, weaving and garmenting. Cotton yarn prices also was up from Rs. 34,000/ Pc on 1st August which is increased to Rs. 48,000 on 31st March 2021. Update on "Kasturi Cotton India" brand made for Indian Cotton

3) With higher MSP of Rs. 8000 to Rs. 9000 per quintal, Government agency like CCI has to buy cotton from farmer. If above recommendations are implemented, then we can save on foreign exchange by importing ELS cotton. Around 9 countries including Bangladesh has put a ban on India. What will be the effect on cotton export and how how much export do we do to Bangladesh? Yes, the news has come that many countries have put a ban on India due to the rise in corona cas-es. But we have to confirm that this ban is only for travel ban or on goods as well which includes cotton and cotton yarn. We export 40% of our total export of 60 lakh bales to Bangladesh which is 25-30 lakh bales in a year.

The Brand is still at beginning stage, at present brand is only considered for variety of 30 mm cot-ton, which has only 5 % production in India. CAI has suggested to the textile ministry and GOI to add 29 mm product variety also in this brand which is catering to 75 percentage of cotton variety produced in India.

There is uncertainty on the cotton market, what is your view on cotton prices in the coming days?

Update on ELS (Extra Long Staple) Fibers

As the foreign markets are strong, our markets are also steady at present. But we must wait and watch and have to monitor how the spinning mill production will be and how the corona cases will be in the coming days. Everything will depend on this for the ups and downs of the market.

Indian spinning mills required 15 lakh -18 lakh bales of ELS cotton every year. ELS cotton has 33 mm to 35 mm variety of cotton. Currently, India is producing around 5 lac bales of this type of cotton. We are importing from USA, Egypt and Australia. On import of ELS cotton we are spending our hard-earned foreign exchange. In order to increase ELS production in India, Cotton Association of India has given suggestions to agriculture and tex-tile ministry as under: 1) Farmer are not getting good quality of ELS cotton seed for sowing in India; so duty free import of good quality cot-

As far as cotton prices are concerned, India always follows USA ICE prices and as of now ICE is 88/89 cent which was 78 cent last month. ICE has gone up because there is less rain in Texas area.

Future Projects of CAI We have many projects to do in future, we are planning to celebrate the 100th year of our Associa-tion. We want to increase activity in farmer training school, increase on cotton testing laboratories in India and many more projects. Once we will come out of pandemic, we will complete our all-pending projects.

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COVER STORY

THE TRAINING HISTORY AND VARIETY OF COTTON KSHIPRA GADEY Textile Value Chain

Cotton (Gossypium sp.) is perhaps the most significant and soonest trained non-food crops on the planet. Utilized basically for its fiber, cotton was trained autonomously in both the Old and New Universes. "Cotton" started from the Arabic expression al qutn, which became in Spanish algodón and cotton in English. Essentially all the cotton delivered on the planet today is the New World species Gossypium hirsutum, however before the nineteenth century, a few animal varieties were developed on various mainlands. The four tamed Gossypium types of the Malvaceae family are G. arboreum L., trained in the Indus Valley of Pakistan and India; G. herbaceum L. from Arabia and Syria; G. hirsutum from Mesoamerica; and G. barbadense from South America. Every one of the four homegrown species and their wild family members are bushes or little trees that are customarily developed as summer crops; trained renditions are exceptionally dry season and salt-open minded harvests that fill well in minor, parched conditions. Old World cotton has short, coarse, frail strands that are today principally utilized for stuffing and blanket making. New World cotton has higher creation requests however gives longer and more grounded filaments and better returns. There are three unique types of cotton used to make the items we know and love. The most well-known sort is Upland cotton, containing almost 90% of all cotton created all throughout the planet. The excess 10% comprises two greater cottons — Egyptian cotton and

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pima cotton. Making Cotton Wild cotton plants start to sprout when the day length arrives at a specific point. Wild cotton plants are lasting, and their structure is rambling. Homegrown renditions are short, smaller yearly bushes which do not react to changes in day length. That is a benefit, if the plant develops in places with cool winters on the grounds that both wild and homegrown sorts of cotton are ice narrow minded. Cotton organic products are cases or bolls, which contain a few seeds covered by two sorts of fiber: short ones called fluff and long ones called build up. Just the buildup strands are valuable for making materials, and the homegrown plants have bigger seeds covered with nearly plentiful build up. Cotton is generally collected by hand, and afterward the cotton is ginned handled to isolate the seeds from the fiber. After the ginning interaction, the cotton filaments are batted with a wooden bow to make them more adaptable and checked with a hand brush to isolate the strands prior to turning. Turning turns the individual strands into a yarn, which can be finished by hand with a shaft and axle whorl (in the New World) or with a turning wheel (created in the Old World). Old World Cotton Cotton was first tamed in the Old World around 7,000 years prior; the earliest archeological proof for cotton use is from the Neolithic control of Mehrgarh,

in the Kachi Plain of Balochistan, Pakistan, in the 6000 BC. Development of G. arboreum started in the Indus Valley of India and Pakistan, and afterward ultimately spread over Africa and Asia, though G. herbaceum was first developed in Arabia and Syria. The two primary species, G. arboreum and G. herbaceum, are hereditarily totally different and most likely wandered a long time before taming. Experts concur that the wild ancestor of G. herbaceum was an African species, though the predecessor of G. arboreum is at this point unclear. Districts of the conceivable beginning of the G. arboreum wild ancestor are likely Madagascar or the Indus Valley, where the oldest proof for developed cotton has been found. Gossypium Arboreum Plentiful archeological proof exists for the underlying training and utilization of G. arboreum, by the Harappan (otherwise known as Indus Valley) human advancement in Pakistan. Mehrgarh, the most punctual horticultural town in the Indus Valley, holds various lines of proof of cotton seeds and strands starting around 6000 BP. At MohenjoDaro, sections of material and cotton materials have been dated to the fourth thousand years BCE, and archeologists concur that a large portion of the exchange that caused the city to develop depended on cotton exportation. Crude material and completed fabric were sent out from South Asia into Dhuweila in Eastern Jordan by 6450–5000 years prior, and to Maikop (Majkop or Maykop) in the northern

COVER STORY Caucasus by 6000 BP. Cotton texture has been found at Nimrud in Iraq (eight-seven hundreds of years BCE), Arjan in Iran (late seventh, mid sixth hundreds of years BCE) and Kerameikos in Greece (fifth century BCE). As per Assyrian records of Sennacherib (705–681 BCE), cotton was filled in the imperial greenhouses at Nineveh, yet cool winters there would have made enormous scope creation inconceivable. Since G. arboreum is a tropical and subtropical plant, cotton farming did not spread outside the Indian subcontinent until millennia after its taming. Cotton development is first found in the Persian Bay at Qal'at al-Bahrain (ca 600–400 BCE), and in North Africa at Qasr Ibrim, Kellis and al-Zerqa between the first and fourth hundreds of years CE. Late examinations at Karatepe in Uzbekistan have discovered cotton creation dated between ca. 300– 500 CE. G. arboreum is thought to have been brought into China as a decorative plant around 1,000 years prior. Cotton may have been filled in the Xinjiang (China) area urban areas of Turfan and Khotan by the eighth century CE. Cotton was at long last adjusted to fill in more calm environments by the Islamic Rural Insurgency, and between 900–1000 CE, a blast in cotton creation spread into Persia, Southwest Asia, North Africa, and the Mediterranean Bowl. Gossypium Herbaceum G. herbaceum is significantly less notable than G. arboreum. Generally, it is known to fill in African open timberlands and meadows. Qualities of its wild species are a taller plant, contrasted with the trained bushes, more modest organic product, and thicker seed coats. Tragically, no unmistakable tamed remaining parts of G. herbaceum have been recuperated from archeological settings. Be that as it may, the appropriation of its nearest wild ancestor recommends a toward the north dispersion toward North Africa, and the Close to East.

in Mexico, and G. barbadense later in Peru. In any case, a minority of analysts accept, on the other hand, that the most punctual kind of cotton was brought into Mesoamerica as an allaround tamed type of G. barbadense from seaside Ecuador and Peru. Whichever story winds up to be right, cotton was one of the main non-food plants tamed by the ancient occupants of the Americas. In the Focal Andes, particularly in the north and focal banks of Peru, cotton was essential for a fishing economy and a marine-based way of life. Individuals utilized cotton to make fishing nets and different materials. Cotton remains have been recuperated in numerous locales on the coast particularly in private middens. Gossypium Hirsutum (Upland Cotton) The most seasoned proof of Gossypium hirsutum in Mesoamerica comes from the Tehuacan valley and has been dated somewhere in the range of 3400 and 2300 BCE. In various caverns of the area, archeologists partnered to the undertaking of Richard MacNeish discovered remaining parts of completely tamed instances of this cotton. Ongoing examinations have thought about bolls and cotton seeds recovered from unearthings in Guila Naquitz Cavern, Oaxaca, with living instances of wild and developed G. hirsutum punctatum developing along the east bank of Mexico. Extra hereditary investigations (Coppens d'Eeckenbrugge and Lacape 2014) support the prior outcomes, demonstrating that G. hirsutum was likely initially tamed in the Yucatán Promontory. Another conceivable focal point of taming for G. hirsutum is the Caribbean.

New World Cotton

In various times and among various Mesoamerican societies, cotton was a profoundly requested great and a valuable trade thing. Maya and Aztec dealers exchanged cotton for other extravagance things, and aristocrats decorated themselves with woven and colored mantles of the valuable material. Aztec lords frequently offered cotton items to respectable guests as blessings and to armed force pioneers as installment.

Among the American species, G. hirsutum was evidently developed first

Gossypium Barbadense (Pima Cotton)

G. barbadense cultivars are known for their creation of excellent fiber and called differently Pima, Egyptian, or Ocean Island cotton. The main obvious proof of tamed Pima cotton comes from the Ancón-Chillón space of the focal shore of Peru. The locales in this space show the training cycle started during the Preceramic time frame, starting around 2500 BCE. By 1000 BCE the size and state of Peruvian cotton bolls were indistinct from the present current cultivars of G. barbadense. Cotton creation started on the coasts yet at last moved inland, worked with by the development of the waterway water system. By the Underlying Time frame, locales, for example, Huaca Prieta contained homegrown cotton 1,500 to 1,000 years before ceramics and maize development. Not at all like in the old world, cotton in Peru was at first a piece of resource rehearsal, utilized for fishing and chasing nets, just as materials, attire, and capacity packs. Varieties of Cotton Egyptian Cotton

Figure 1 Egyptian Cotton

Egyptian cotton is a fine, sparkling cotton that has long more slender strands. This is the most well-known cotton that is utilized to make bed sheets, pad covers and so forth It is light earthy colored in shading and is reasonable for solid yarns. Sea Island Cotton Sea Island cotton is a costly one, as its development and handling takes a great deal of endeavors and cost. It is perhaps the best cotton present in the realm of cotton and is frequently blended in with silk. The garments made from this assortment of cotton

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COVER STORY This kind of cotton can be found in India, China and close to Eastern locales. It has brutal and coarse filaments and is appropriate to make covers, channels, coarse garments, and cushioning materials. American Upland Cotton

less any sorts of synthetic substances and pesticides that are for the most part utilized in the creation of different kinds of cottons. Indeed, even the garments produced out of this cotton are not presented to the ecologically harmful synthetic substances that different materials are utilized to. Reference 1.https://www.thoughtco.com/domestication-history-of-cotton-gossypium-170429

Figure 2 Sea Island Cotton

2.https://certipik.com/2020/05/what-ispima-cotton/

are costly for the purchaser, in view of the significant expense of creation.

3.http://lifestyle.iloveindia.com/ lounge/types-of-cotton-8837.html

Pima Cotton Pima cotton has long and smooth fila-

Figure 5 American Upland Cotton

American Upland cotton is quite possibly the most regularly utilized cotton and is more affordable too. It is of a fundamental quality and is utilized to make a few textures. The cotton is of a very adaptable nature and can be utilized to make costly shirts and denims too. Natural Cotton Figure 3 Pima Cotton

ments and falls in the class of Extra Long Staple (ELS) kinds of cotton. Like the Egyptian cotton regarding quality, it is a solid, delicate, and sturdy material, which makes it quite possibly the most renowned and famous cotton types to be utilized for apparel, towels, and sheets.

It is more earnestly than the typical cottons and is not effectively accessible in regular retail shops, nor are the textures made out of this cotton are effectively accessible. Natural cotton is

4. Figure 1: https://www.kingofcotton. com/blog/egyptian-cotton-vs-pimacotton/ 5. Figure 2: https://www.bing.com/images/search 6.Figure3:https://certipik.com/2020/05/ what-is-pima-cotton/ 7. Figure 4: www.asianscientist.com 8. Figure 5: https://www.linenslimited. com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-egyptian-cotton-regular-cotton-bed-linen-2577/ 9. Figure 6: https://www.bing.com/images/search?view

Asiatic Cotton

Figure 4 Asiatic Cotton

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Figure 6 Natural Cotton

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ORGANIC COTTON: NEED OF THE HOUR KUMARI NAYAN TARA SINGH Assisstant Professor, NIFT, Srinagar The problem in developing countries is even worse, as in addition to destroying the land, it also affects thousands of farmers exposed to these chemicals every year.

Nowadays global warming, diseases like growing cancer rates and poverty and increasing chemical sensitivities are something which concerns most of us. But our clothes can be a villain too, and quite significant. When we think of cotton, what image comes to our mind is white, pure, fluffy, natural and pure fabric. Cotton is a versatile and globally important fiber which is used for various purposes like making clothes, food products, accessories, etc. because of its various uses, softness, breathability, absorbency, year round comfort, performance and durability it is one of the most widely traded commodities on earth. Cotton is a part of our day-to-day lives be it drying our faces on soft cotton towel in the morning or sliding over fresh cotton sheets at night. It has hundreds of uses from a shirt to shoe strings. Historically, India held world monopoly in the production and manufacturing of cotton textiles for almost about 3000 years from around 1500 B.C. to around 1500 A.D. During the middle ages, Indian cotton textile products were in great demand, mostly in the European markets. Chintz of Masulipatnam, muslin of Dhaka, calico of Calicut and gold-wrought cotton piece goods of Burhanpur, Ahmedabad and Vadodara acquired a worldwide recognition because of their quality and design. Today, cotton regains its importance and is preferred for household items. The Textile industry today continues to be the second largest industry after agriculture, in India. It provides employment to 20 million people and contributes nearly 38 percent to the total

value of exports. This industry has witnessed a significant growth during the last four decades. Cotton Textile industry in India is linked with agriculture and provides living to farmers, cotton ball pluckers, workers engaged in ginning, spinning and weaving the fibers produced, then dyeing, designing, packaging, tailoring and sewing. This industry indirectly supports many other industries like chemicals, dyes, mill stores, and engineering works. Along with this handspun khadi provides large scale employment to weavers engaged in cottage industry. Cotton textile goods are also exported to U.S.A., U.K., Russia, France, East European countries, Nepal, Singapore, Sri Lanka, and African countries. Growing conventional cotton is one of the most chemical-intensive process, and one of the most widely grown crops in the world. The chemicals involved in production of these crops have tremendous harmful impact on the air, water and soil and impacts harshly to the health of the people associated in growing these crops. These are amongst the most toxic chemicals, as said by the Environmental Protection Agency.

Thus, we can say that organic cotton is the need of the hour as it is grown using methods and materials which are more sustainable and has less impact on the environment. Today organic food is something which is most talked about and cherished. Likewise organic cotton is as important and essential as that of organic foods. Today because of involvement of brands and retailers and their successful marketing has resulted in high demand for organic cotton products and thus available to customers in the usual points of purchase for textiles and clothing. Today organic cotton items are found in regular sales channels like department stores, supermarkets and even in high street fashion shops. Increase in the use of organic cotton by large fashion brands and retailers has resulted in generating much attention from other parts of textile industry, designers and the media. This further results in customer’s interest in demand for organic cotton textiles and clothing and their willingness to purchase. Caring for people around and associated with us is a life choice and choosing organic cotton over conventional one is part of such choice. By purchasing organic over conventional, we have the power to influence brands, manufacturers, and even farmers. So let us join our hands together for this change and build a world more sustainable and more breathable.

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COVER STORY

SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE FOR BENEFITTING ENVIRONMENT, ECONOMY & INDUSTRY MANISH DAGA Organic Cotton: Golden opportunity for India

‘Tsunami’ hitting the Organic cotton industry

Would you believe if I said, “There is shortage of cotton in India?” You would immediately retort back with a curt reply, “You must be kidding”. You will most certainly corroborate your response with logical facts like

An investigation by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) identified 20,000 metric tonnes of cotton that was wrongly certified as organic. GOTS has since instructed its approved bodies to cancel all upstream transactions certificates based on these wrongly issued documents in order to prevent affected goods being sold with the GOTS label.

• India is the largest producer of cotton • India is amongst Top 3 exporter of cotton • Since last many years, India has remained a ‘Cotton surplus’ • Top consumer of cotton • India is most likely to have it’s highest carry over stock this year. While all of these is true, we fail to realise “What does India’s Textile Industry actually need?” The fact remains that India is facing acute shortage of 2 types of cotton 1.Organic cotton 2.ELS cotton Your obvious argument will be that India is the world’s largest supplier of organic cotton in the world. Close to 240,000 metric tons of global organic cotton were produced in 2019 and out of this India holds a 51 % share. The second position is occupied by China with a distant 17 %, followed by Kyrgyzstan and Turkey at 10 % each. Growing Demand Data shows that the demand for organic cotton has seen exponential growth over the years. According to the Organic Trade Association, there has

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Effects of ‘Tsunami’ Source: Textile Exchange

been 31% growth in the organic cotton industry, in the past one year. It is expected to see a rise of 10% during 2021. The whole world is witnessing the remarkable benefits of the production of organic cotton, be it clothing demand or employment opportunities. Pre-COVID estimates showed that global organic cotton production will grow by a further 10 % by 2020-2021. But things have changed drastically in 2020. Shrinking Supply Most of the countries were struggling to increase their market share in Organic cotton. The world started depending on India for sourcing Organic cotton. Till 2019-20, India ‘used to’ grow about 5-6 million bales of Organic cotton. 50% of this was exported and the rest 50% was converted in value added products such as yarn and garments which were majorly exported. Both, India and the world were comfortable with this arrangement till a ‘Tsunami’ hit the Textile industry last year.

The effect was drastic and dramatic. Shipped/ unshipped cotton was under scrutiny hampering the supply chain, supply was choked, contracts were either cancelled or unhonoured, there was uncertainty and extraordinary delay in transaction certificates. In short, there was complete chaos amongst the stake holders. As a result, the premium of Organic certified cotton in India skyrocketed by about 20%. After effects of this ‘Tsunami’ Most of the organic supply chains stand fractured and fragile following scrutiny and decertification. There will remain an element of doubt for all suppliers of cotton and value added products till they provide fool-proof documents and certificates. Solution We need to build a robust and traceable supply chain for organic cotton. This Tsunami is an opportunity in disguise for stake holders to build their “very own Organic cotton supply chain”. Cottonguru® is assisting many such Textile Corporates and Brands to build

COVER STORY robust, sustainable, traceable, and profitable supply chains. Cottonguru® undertakes projects for Organic, BCI and conventional cotton and contamination-controlled cotton for it’s customers based on professional turnkey basis backed by it’s expertise and experience of over 100 years. Cottonguru’s inherent strength lies in it’s strong network of over 100,000 cotton farmers across India. With the ‘trust relationship’ built over years of association, training and handholding, Cottonguru® organises the farmers into clusters as per the need of the project. 3-Way benefit of Organic projects: 1. Textile Industry: Projects undertaken by Cottonguru® have immensely benefitted it’s customers in sourcing cotton of their choice with increase in productivity and profits. It is also useful in reducing carbon footprint and capturing the huge space in “Genuinely certified Organic product’ segment. 2. Farmers: These projects have helped

in increasing employment, decreasing the cost and improving the income of farmers. 3. Environment: We all know that organic cotton is non-genetically engineered cotton grown without using hazardous chemicals like pesticides and fertilizers. Increase in organic production is directly proportional to the reduction of carbon emission in the atmosphere. Thus organic cotton can help mitigate climate change. While many see these as a disadvantage, Cottonguru® utilises the following factors of Indian agriculture as an asset in Organic cotton projects with complete focus on the challenges of retention and sustainability: 1. Small holder farmers 2. Rainfed agriculture 3. Availability of land 4. Minimum use of pesticides (simply because many farmers cannot afford it) 5. Climate change

Organic agriculture has the potential to help reduce carbon emissions, enhance soil fertility and improve climate resilience. Government can promote sustainable agriculture only by creating policies that integrate social, environmental, and economic interests of all stake holders. Therefore, Cottonguru® strongly recommends to the Government that: 1. Organic agriculture must be declared as an effective strategy to reduce greenhouse gases and carbon emission. 2. National mission on Organic Agriculture with research and extension services specific to organic production for climate resilient agriculture 3. Special MSP for Organic cotton. This is most important to retain farmers in organic production. Sustainable agriculture, management of natural resources and building robust supply chains is the key to prosperity for all stake holders of cotton textile industry.

Core Purpose and Mission Cottonguru® is the leader in agriculture and textile advisory services across the country. It is in cotton industry since 1903 and have strived hard to reach this leading position. It has vast experience of working with the smallest of farmers and topmost consumers, DNA of technical and Marketing expertise and impeccable Brand image has given it a clear edge over our competitors. Cottonguru® wishes to and will continue to contribute to the value addition of cotton and agriculture in every possible manner. Change is the only thing that is constant in the world. Cottonguru® Group has survived for over 100 years uninterrupted overcoming all calamities mainly because of deep rooted ethical values and ability to adapt to the changes. With a unique blend of tradition and technology, we have reached the coveted stage of "Think Cotton – Think Cottonguru®"

Core Purpose and Mission The company runs on clear mission to assist farmers in improving yield and quality. It strives to help cotton users in locating regular sources of sustainable and contamination-free cotton at nominal prices. It aim to prevent the arbitrary use of plastic and paper objects and replace it with cotton-based products which are ‘natural, eco-friendly renewable resource’ (E. g. cotton handkerchief v/s tissue paper, cotton bags v/s plastic or paper bags) thereby, helping save the environment.

Vision Unlocking the socio-economic potential of agriculture for global prosperity.

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TALE OF THE INDIAN WHITE GOLD KSHIPRA GADEY Textile Value Chain

Abstract India is one of the leading cultivators of cotton due to its climatic conditions and geographical location. Use of cotton in India dates to the ancient times and its production was progressed majorly during the 1st World War. Cotton production contributes a lot to the Indian economy. There are various advancements occurring in the cotton industry and Naturally Colored Cotton is one of them. Introduction India has always been one of the leading cotton producing nations in the world. Cotton was much more than just a fiber or a fabric. It was a symbol of patriotism during the ‘Swadeshi Movement’, an emotion of warmth of your grandmother’s saree, it is an elegant intricacy of ‘Chikankari’, and a lot more than just a fiber. It is the livelihood of millions of people employed across the country including farmers who cultivate this non-edible crop. Cotton is not just a fiber, it is the white gold that is used for weaving tales, histories, and development in India. Cotton is a Kharif crop that requires 6-8 months to develop. The gathering and planting season of harvests contrast in various districts, contingent on the environment conditions. It is planted in April-May and reaped in December-January before the colder time of year. For planting, it requires hightemperature soil. The cotton area in India is viewed as the second most created area in the material business (after man-made filaments). At 18% of the worldwide aggregate, India is the world's biggest

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maker of cotton. It additionally has the biggest territory under cotton development on the planet, addressing about 25% of the world's region under development. The provinces of Gujarat, Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh, Haryana, Punjab, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Karnataka, and Tamil Nadu are the significant cotton producing territories in India. Why is India among the top producers of cotton in the world? India’s geographical location is one of the important reasons why agriculture is a major occupation in this country. Weather conditions and soil are perfect for crop cultivation throughout the country. India is accepted to be the first home of the cotton plant. Presently, Cotton possesses about 4.7 percent of the absolute edited region in the country. Cotton has a wide scope of soil transfor-

mation and is developed on incredibly assorted soil types. Notwithstanding, a profound (>60 cm), friable, all around depleted and fruitful soil is generally reasonable. Silty earth to mud soils is awesome. Accordingly, the best return of cotton is generally acquired on alluvial soils. Soils in the pH goes from 5 to 8 and CaCO3 substances of under 10% in the pull zone are appropriate for cotton development. Exceptionally calcareous soils with more than 30 % free CaCO3 may cause phosphorus obsession and micronutrient inadequacy. It is by and large considered as genuinely lenient to saltiness. Being a profound established harvest, soil profundity is additionally a significant factor and shallow soils are not appropriate in vertosols and related soil areas. It is raised primarily as a rainfed crop in the dark cotton and medium soils and as a flooded yield in the alluvial soils. Alluvial soils (over-

COVER STORY whelming in the northern territories of Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh), Red sandy topsoils to topsoil (found in Gujarat, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu) and Laterite soils (found in pieces of Assam, Tamil Nadu and Kerala) are a portion of the dominating kinds of soil on which the yield is developed. Cotton is a tropical or sub-tropical yield filled in semiparched spaces of the country (fundamentally in the Deccan Level). Hard ice is damaging to cotton development and it needs in any event 210 ice free days. Just light precipitation (50 to 100 centimeters) is liked. Cotton can likewise be developed under flooded conditions. It requires high temperature and brilliant daylight for its development. Cotton requires a reasonable sky during the blooming stage. A light very much depleted soil equipped for holding dampness is obviously appropriate for the development of the yield. Dark cotton soil is liked. India’s geographical location meets all the requirements mentioned above. Cotton is also a drought resistant crop; thus, it is majorly cultivated in India (1). What is Naturally Colored Cotton? Cotton that has been developed to have colors other than the yellowish off-white typical of current commercial cotton fibers AZ is known as naturally colored cotton. Red, green, and various shades of brown are among the colors that can be found. The natural color of the cotton does not fade. Yields are usually smaller, and the fiber is shorter and thinner than the more widely available "white" cotton, but it has a smoother feel. This type of cotton is often smoother on the skin (this is a subjective assertion that needs to be verified) and has a good odor. Natural colored cotton is still uncommon since it needs advanced harvesting techniques and equipment, which makes it more costly to harvest than white cotton. Most colored cotton landraces or cultivars grown in Africa, Asia, Central and South America had been replaced by all-white commercial varieties by the 1990s. Cotton with natural colors is thought to have originated in the Andes about 5000 years

ago.

Benefits of Naturally Colored Cotton

The Old World Asiatic diploid cottons are attempted to begin sooner than New World allotetraploid cottons. Hued assortments were known in diploid cottons and were under development in Asia, especially Indian subcontinent, China, and Focal Asian Republics of previous Soviet Association since long.

There are a few benefits of normally shaded over the white cotton assortments. These are momentarily examined underneath:

In India, earthy colored linted assortments of tree cotton (G. arboreum L.) to be specific Cocanada 1, Cocanada 2 and Red Northerns were under business development basically on dark soils under rainfed condition in pieces of Andhra Pradesh. Red linted types were overwhelming and high in interest for their better coloring characteristics and shading speed. Nonetheless, the circumstance has changed with the progression and normalization of coloring methods. Development of shaded cotton was debilitated and nearly deserted in the last 50% of this century. Shaded lint assortments couldn't stay well known with cultivators, principally due to low efficiency per unit territory, poor fiber qualities and nonconsistency of shadings. Need of great importance was to expand cotton creation to meet the essential prerequisites of truly expanding the populace for apparel. With the headway of turning and preparing innovations, ease in bestowing fluctuated medicines of shades and tones during handling uniquely with the coming of engineered colors, more prominent accentuation was given underway of high yielding cotton with prevalent fiber quality, which brought about the substitution of hued cotton by white linted types. However, development of shaded cottons proceeded in segregated pockets as curiosity specialty cotton and for tasteful reason. As of late shaded cottons are accepting expanding significance considering their eco-friendly character. The mindfulness about the harmfulness and contamination brought about by manufactured colors have restored the interest in development of natural cotton. The inclination for eco-accommodating cotton must be satisfied ideally by naturally developed hued cotton, administering unsafe synthetics in the process.

Impact on Human Wellbeing Cotton textures with counterfeit colors have been accounted for, to effect sly affect the skin and human wellbeing. Fake colors have an antagonistic impact on their wellbeing. There is a hazard of skin disease among the people who consistently interact with fake colors. The majority of colors utilized in material businesses are cancercausing. Counterfeit colors cause hypersensitivity and tingling on the skin and in some cases may cause skin malignant growth. In cotton processes, a few workers interact with counterfeit colors. The texture arranged from normally shaded cotton build up, is liberated from such antagonistic impacts. There is no need of utilizing counterfeit colors when the texture is produced from normally shaded cotton. Such texture can be securely utilized even by those having delicate skin. Hence, texture made from hued cotton has been discovered to be an awesome human wellbeing. Impact on Climate Different counterfeit colors are being utilized for coloring of fabric produced from the white buildup. After coloring, the substance deposits through coloring or completing affluents are tossed in close by waterway tainting water and soil. This structure is a significant wellspring of ecological contamination. At the point when the texture is produced from normally shaded build up, there is no need for counterfeit colors. In this manner utilization of normally shaded cotton helps in diminishing ecological contamination brought about by fake colors. Impact on cost of texture creation The coloring cycle adds to the expense of creation of texture. The coloring interaction is excluded when normally hued build up is utilized for assembling of the texture. Along these lines the expense of creation of texture can be diminished somewhat using normally

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hued cotton. On the off chance that the hued cotton is followed through on greater expense than white cotton, at that point the decrease in the expense of creation of texture brought about by overlooking coloring measure is repaid by exorbitant cost of shaded cotton texture. Impediments of shaded cotton, normally hued cottons have some natural downsides. These are: low yield potential, poor fiber properties, restricted tones, flimsiness of shadings, defilement of white cotton, low market request, and absence of promoting offices according to Specialized Release from CICR (www.cicr.org.in) 8 Normally Hued Cotton. Low Yield Potential The yield capability of right now accessible shaded cotton genotypes is low. The yield potential is practically 50% of the white linted assortments. In light of low yield potential, normally shaded cotton could not get mainstream for business development. At the end of the day, low yield capability of normally shaded cotton has gone about as an obstruction in the development of its development. Its development has been restricted to little pockets in ancestral territories as it were. Helpless Fiber properties The fiber of normally hued cotton genotypes, contrasted and white cotton, is of very inferior quality. Normally hued cottons are generally more limited in staple length, more fragile in fiber strength and have low micronaire esteem. They likewise have low fiber development compared to white cottons. There is a need to improve fiber properties of hued cotton, especially fiber solidarity to make it appropriate for high velocity turning. Restricted Tones Normally hued cotton genotypes at present accessible in the germplasm have restricted build up colors. There are just two tones for example earthy colored in different shades and green. With just two colors, normally hued cotton cannot contend with white cot-

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ton as shifted medicines of tones and shades can be effectively granted to white cotton. Shakiness of tones The shade of normally hued cotton is not steady and enduring. In daylight, the green shading blurs more rapidly than the earthy colored tone. Earthy colored tone likewise blurs yet at a lethargic rate. The green build up, which is presented to daylight turns out to be nearly white and the bit which is covered with the pod ( at the lower part of the locule) stays dull green. Tainting Common build up shading is represented by predominant/inadequate prevailing qualities. The green shading is constrained by one quality and earthy colored tone with at least two qualities. Cotton is a regularly crosspollinated crop. In common conditions, cross fertilization happens to reach out of 5-20 percent. Developing hued and white cotton in the area will upgrade the opportunity of tainting of white linted genotypes with shaded genotypes and the other way around. Tainting may happen in three different ways, viz. (1) through common outcrossing with white cotton, (2) during ginning, and (3) during delinting. Developing of white cotton in the field in which shaded cotton was filled in the earlier year may likewise prompt tainting through volunteers. Consequently, development of hued cotton ought to be confined to little zones as it were. Besides, research work on hued cotton ought to be confined to just hardly any examination communities to stay away from defilement of white cotton. Low Market Interest There is exceptionally restricted interest in normally hued cottons in India. In the last not so long time, the interest of normally hued cotton has expanded in some European nations, which is around 5-6 lakh parcels for each annum. Hoping to low interest, it is alluring to limit development of shaded cottons to restricted zones and to enrolled cultivators as it were. This will serve to

Specialized Announcement from CICR (www.cicr.org.in) 9 Normally Hued Cotton deflect the conceivable misfortune to the cultivators, perhaps because of its over creation and exceptionally less or no market interest. Absence of Advertising Offices There is absence of appropriate showcasing for the offer of normally shaded cotton. It is important to create advertising offices prior to beginning development of hued cotton on business scale. There ought to be a composed arrangement between the buyer and the maker for creation of normally shaded cotton (4). Limitations of Naturally Colored Cotton The normally hued cotton has a little fiber and is not appropriate for weighty machine turning. The green and earthy colored cotton plants yielded too little buildup that was too short in staple length. Because of more modest fiber, it becomes unconventional to utilize normally hued cotton for attire producers. Yet, presently, hued cotton is in a real sense pressed in with the traditional white cotton to make its fiber longer and more grounded than other normally shaded cotton to be utilized in commonplace weavers. Since this mixture cotton fiber is more grounded, it is being utilized by Levi's, L.L. Bean, Eileen Fisher, and Fieldcrest for garments like khakis (3). References •

https://www.agricultureinindia.net/ cultivation/cotton-cultivation/cottoncultivation-how-to-cultivate-cotton-inindia-a-guide-for-farmers/19726

•

https://www.investindia.gov.in/teamindia-blogs/cotton-textile-industryindia#:~:text=The%20first%20cotton%20mill%20in%20India%20was%20 established,and%20was%20named%20 Bombay%20Spinning%20and%20Weaving%20Company.

•

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naturally_ colored_cotton

•

http://www.cicr.org.in/pdf/naturally_ colored_cotton.pdf

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NON-WOVEN COTTON TEXTILE KHYATI SUTARIA PG Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, SNDT University, Juhu, Mumbai

ments instead of dyes to print textiles saves a lot of water.

Abstract Cotton fibre is well-known as a primary clothing fabric. Nonwovens have become increasingly relevant in the medical field in recent years. There are, however, some materials that can be reused for a limited amount of time. Cotton improves the functionality and marketability of the nonwovens. The growing nonwovens category would help the cotton industry as well as nonwovens producers who choose to use cotton fibre in their products. Cotton nonwovens are known for their excellent absorption and release properties, as well as their comfort and softness. Key words: Cotton, Knitting, Non-Woven, Non-woven cotton, Introduction Cotton fiber is notable as an essential attire material, but its properties make it suitable for nonwovens like diapers, baby towels, feminine grooming, and adult incontinence items. With growing questions about synthetic fibres' environmental effects, cotton provides a flushable, compostable, and convenient substitute. Cotton's natural absorbency and hypoallergenic properties make it a practical and convenient choice as well. For industrial applications, nonwoven fabric and compounded materials are commonly used. Nonwovens are everywhere around us. The structure of knitted fabric is breathable as well as compact. It is used in the design of a mask which is used in our day to day life. Nonwoven fabrics are widely used in furniture and bedding. Nonwovens can be used in the sofa one sits on, the carpet one walks on, and the mattress one sleeps on.

● Dry Cleaning Resistance: fast to clean. ● Flame Retardant: Self-extinguishing. ● Hydrophilic: Cotton cellulose has what are known as hydrophilic properties in chemistry. What is it about non-woven cotton that makes it so special?

Cotton-based nonwovens manufacturers and brands may be eligible to use the well-known Seal of Cotton trademark for marketing purposes. Consumers recognize the Cotton Seal of Quality at an average of 80% or higher year after year. The Seal also serves as a visual indication that the commodity includes cotton, and customers consistently prefer cotton for personal care items when offered the choice. Characteristics Cotton nonwovens have superb absorption and release characteristics, as well as outstanding comfort and softness. To grow cotton nonwoven fabrics with unique beneficial properties, a number of fabric treatment options are possible. This may include the following:

The cotton industry, as well as nonwovens manufacturers who want to use cotton fibre in their products, will benefit from the growing nonwovens segment. Cotton's natural structure and characteristics have practical and marketable advantages for residential, institutional, and industrial goods. Cotton fibre is having a positive effect on industries as diverse as consumer goods, hospitals, and automobiles. Cotton, for example, has proven to be a valuable raw material for wipes in the personal care industry because it works better than synthetics and appeals to customers. Nonwoven Fabrics in consumer products Have you ever used a dryer sheet to

● Anti-microbial/Anti-bacterial: An antimicrobial is a substance that destroys or inhibits the development of microorganisms. ● Antistatic: reduces, removes, or prevents static electricity buildup. ● Biodegradable: able to decompose in the presence of bacteria or other living species, preventing contamination. ● Custom Machined Colors: Using pig-

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soften your clothes? Nonwoven fabrics are a part of your everyday life. In the consumer goods industry, nonwovens have several benefits. Nonwovens are suitable for tea bags and single-serving coffee bags because they have no odour or taste and are incredibly solid when wet, meaning no tea leaves or coffee grounds can float in your drink. Dry floor cloths are both practical and efficient. These nonwoven sheets are thick enough to adhere to any surface, trapping dust, dirt, and hair more effectively. You have already used a dryer sheet at least once in your life. These anti-static sheets are constructed of a durable nonwoven cloth that can withstand high dryer temperatures. Dryer sheets may also be made to emit scents and softeners gradually through the drying process Other Nonwovens in Consumer Products

• Cheese wrap

tives to synthetic fibres. Nonwovens cotton is a practical and convenient alternative because of its inherent absorbency and hypoallergenic properties.

• Coffee and tea bags Filters

Reference

• Floor dusting cloths

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https://www.wptnonwovens.com/ blog/nonwoven-cotton-all-naturalnonwoven-fiber/

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https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7285/applications-for-nonwovens-in-technical-textiles

•

https://www.cottoninc.com/qualityproducts/nonwovens/why-cotton/

•

https://www.wptnonwovens.com/nonwoven-cotton/

•

https://www.inda.org/about-nonwovens/nonwoven-markets/consumer-

• Scouring pads and towels • Baby bibs

• Laundry dryer sheets • Reusable bags • Cosmetic applicators and removers • Envelopes, stickers and marks • Vacuum, laundry, and dress bags Conclusion Year after year, consumers remember the Cotton Seal of Quality is higher. A variety of fabric treatment choices are available to produce cotton nonwoven fabrics with specific beneficial properties. Cotton nonwovens are disposable, compostable, and convenient alterna-

products/ •

https://www.cottoninc.com/qualityproducts/nonwovens/

NEWS

Kelheim Fibers joins the ZDHC "Guide to Zero" Program KELHEIM, Germany - The Bavarian thick strength fiber maker Kelheim Fibers has joined the ZDHC program "Guide to Zero." The non-benefit association with in excess of 160 givers worldwide has laid out itself the objective of totally taking out destructive substances from the material worth chain. The ZDHC rules give makers of Man-made Cellulosic Fibers (MMCF) with uniform standards for estimating pointers like wastewater, air emanations and other interaction related boundaries. The deliberate information is freely observed and distributed. Kelheim Fibers, the world's first EMAS-approved thick fiber maker, considers its To be contributorship as another structure block headed straight toward significantly more feasible fiber creation. "We need to build up our industry with our skill towards a greener future. Manageability is a basic piece of our corporate way of thinking and methodology. We completely support ZDHC's vision of a broad execution of manageable science, driving ad-

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vancements and best practices in material, clothing and footwear enterprises to secure shoppers, laborers and the climate," said Craig Barker, CEO at Kelheim Fibers. "ZDHC gives us admittance to a scope of best practices in compound administration and offers us the chance to arrange and gain from one another with similar industry accomplices. ZDHC's shared methodology will speed up the shift to a more capable industry and we need to add to that."

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COTTON - THE INDIAN HERITAGE TEXTILE ANNU JAIN Faculty, Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, Sir Vithaldas Thackersey College of Home Science (Autonomous), SNDT Women’s University, Mumbai.

Introduction

Amongst the different types of fabrics available in India—chiefly wool, jute, hemp, silk and cotton—it is cotton that offers the richest styles of expression. While other fabrics have a distinct quality in texture, cotton being relatively flat has been explored most ingeniously by Indian weavers in terms of colours and designs to create striking results [3].

that, according to some Buddhist texts, goes back to 500 BCE. [4]

TRADITIONAL TEXTILES USING COTTON

Kalamkari

Image no. 1 Cotton Plant

India has been well known for textile since very ancient times. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced to the Indus valley civilization as early as 5th millennium BC. The people of that civilization used homespun cotton for weaving their garments and used indigo to color their fabric [1]. Clothes are one of the most creative ways of expressing individuality, lifestyle and culture. Every community, region and culture has its own distinct way of dressing and clothing. India has a rich heritage of art and crafts which is reflected in its textiles and fabrics. The art of weaving and dyeing of fabrics was practiced in India from very ancient times. Cotton in particular was core to Indian textiles and has been cultivated here since ancient times. Ancient travelers described cotton cultivation as sheep growing on trees, for they only knew white wool, which was taken from sheep. The centres known for very finely woven cotton were in Bengal, Varanasi, Chanderi and in the towns of Uppada, Mangalagiri and Venkatagiri of Andhra Pradesh and many more [2].

Image no. 2 Jamdani Weave on Cotton Fabric

Jamdani

Jamdani means a vase of flowers. Saris are woven using this method are called as terchha. [1] Made with handspun and handwoven cotton, Jamdani uses the extra-weft technique where the weaver manually introduces opaque motifs on a base of translucent cotton while weaving. The test of a true Jamdani, it is said, lies in submerging the fabric in water. The fine muslin base should all but disappear, and the motifs appear to float freely. [4] Punja Durries Before the Mughals introduced Persian carpets to India in the 16th century, we had durries. Woven from cotton, wool and even camel hair, India had a rich tradition of weaving floor-coverings

Image no. 3 Kalamkari on Cotton Fabric

Kalamkari is an ancient style of hand painting done on cotton or silk fabric with a tamarind pen, using natural dyes. The word Kalamkari is derived from a Persian word where ‘kalam‘ means pen and ‘kari‘ refers to craftsmanship. There are two identifiable styles of Kalamkari art in India – Srikalahasti style and Machilipatnam style [5]. Ikat Craftsmen have devised different design and weaving methods, chief amongst them being bandhani, kalamkari, block print and ikat. Ikat is the most intricate and elaborate of all these methods involving resist dye as well as weaving of loose threads post the dyeing. If both warp and weft are resist dyed the resultant weave is called ‘double ikat’ which is primarily associated with the patola ikats of Patan, in Gujrat (Figure 1). And if either the weft or the warp yarn alone is dyed, the weave is termed ‘single ikat’, more widely produced in Odisha [3]. Kota Doria Kota Doria fabric has a square weave pattern which makes it one of the finest open weave fabric .The cotton, silk

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and zari (fine metal threads) yarns are woven on the pit loom that produces these patterns. The cotton yarn provides stiffness and silk provides lustre to the fabric. Kunbi Sari Kunbi is a cotton chequered sari in red and white with a sturdy weave good enough to be worn for farming. It has a dobby border, which is essentially a silken flat inset. Ilkal Sari With its origin in the Ilkal town of Karnataka, Ilkal is woven using cotton warp on the body and art silk warp for border and silk warp for the pallu portion of the saree. Pallu and body are joined with kondi technique. red and white are the main colors. Mangalgiri It is a fabric in prominently cotton with a zari border. Main body which is totally plain and zari border are in contrasting colours. Sanganeri Print Sanganeri printing gained high popularity in the 16th and 17th centuries in all European countries with its Calico prints and became one of the major exports of the East India Company. Sanganer motifs are mostly floral based and intricate detailing. Chanderi A beautiful blend of Cotton, Silk thread and zari results in Chanderi fabric.

NEWS

Traditional looms are used as a primary means of production. These include Dobby & Jacquard Looms. Most Chanderis have a rich gold border and butis all over fabric. Some have gold checks or little motifs (known as butis). Bandhani Dyed in tie & dye style, the art of bandhani is a highly skilled process. In this the fabric is tied into small points with threads and when dyed, the knotted parts remain uncoloured. Different types of tying methods are leheriya, ,mothda,ekdali, trikundi, chaubandi, etc. It is also known as Bandhej, and is made on superfine cotton, mulmul, muslin, etc [1]. Conclusion

dia. Retrieved from https://medium.com/@noopurshalini/textiles-of-india-d9f5e5310dc6 2. Artistic Heritage in Indian Textiles, (2008, September). Retrieved from https://www. fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3660/ artistic-heritage-in-indian-textiles 3. Meher, S. (2017, November 6). The Sambalpuri Ikat of Odisha : History, Symbolism and Contemporary Trends. Retrieved from https://www.sahapedia.org/the-sambalpuri-ikat-of-odisha-history-symbolism-and-contemp orary-t rends 4. Rana, V. (2019, November 8). 10 Fabrics that are a Reflection of Indian Heritage. Retrieved from https://www.cosmopolitan.in/fashion/features/g18932/10-fabrics-are-reflection-indi-

Cotton is an age old textile, which has been used in Indian Textiles. The traditional Indian Textiles are majorly made using Cotton due to its availability, comfort, cost, dyeing, care and various other properties. Although the use of these traditional textiles have reduced due to the advent of Fast fashion and Western influence, these textiles and Cotton being the Heritage fabric of India is surviving in these conditions. Recently due to more knowledge and publicity the Traditional Textiles are being revived and the younger generation is accepting these textiles in new garment designs.

an-her itage#s lide-17

References

https://www.luxeva.com/2019/07/craft-revival-an-ode-to-the-glorious-fading-textileform-of-kal amkari/

1. Noopur, S. (2018, March 17). Textiles of In-

5. Kalamkari. Retrieved from https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/kalamkari-art/ Image References Image no. 1 Cotton - https://denimhunters. com/denim-wiki/denim-explained/cotton/ Image no 2 Jamdani Weave on Cotton Fabric https://www.unnatisilks.com/blog/jamdania-fine-art-weave-attachment-on-fabricspart-i/ Image no. 3 Kalamkari on Cotton -

NILIT LAUNCHES SUSTAINABLE NYLON FIBER

Israel's producer of nylon 6.6 strands, Nilit has dispatched manageable nylon fiber Sensil BioCare. Created to help the material and clothing industry address ecological difficulties, for example, water utilization and its effect on the climate, the fiber separates quicker in seawater and landfills. Assembling as per Nilit's Total Product Sustainability (TPS) standards, Sensil BioCare is upgraded with an extraordinary innovation that keeps it from wearing out and meddling with other execution added substances, completes or colors. The fiber was tried in both landfill soil and seawater reenactments to comprehend its likely effect on the two environments. It showed crumbling in both reproduced conditions during the trials in contrast with nylon fiber that does exclude the extraordinary innovation, the delivery added. The fiber has been tried by ASTM D6691 Standard Test Method for Determining Aerobic Biodegradation of Plastic Materials in the Marine Environment and ASTM D5511 Standard Test Method for Determining Anaerobic Biodegradation of Plastic Materials Under High-Solids Anaerobic-Digestion Conditions. These show that Sensil BioCare yarns will separate more quickly than regular nylon. These discoveries highlight decreased waste aggregation in the two seas and landfills.

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ANTIBACTERIAL FINISHED COTTON

AISHWARYA GAVADE M. Tech. (Textile Technology) D.K.T.E Society’s Textile & Engineering Institute Abstract An ecofriendly herbal antibacterial finish has been prepared from the plant extracts for textile utility. Microbial increase on a fabric cloth causes lack of strength and elongation, discoloration, and changes in appearance. The antibacterial finishing agents extracted from nettle plant leaf are accustomed impart finish to the cotton cloth through the use of the Pad-DryCure utility technique. Herbal extracts from Ocimum sanctum (tulsi leaf) and rind of pomegranate (pomegranate) are carried out to cotton cloth through the strategy of direct application, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and their combinations. All the treatments display good antibacterial properties for the fabric. Except the tactic of direct application, all different treatments show proper washing durability up to 15 washes. The surface morphological studies the use of SEM display the surface coating, microcapsules and a few fibrillation. The antibacterial activity of Aloe Vera finished fabric were qualitatively evaluated through AATCC-147 technique sixteen and scanning electron microscope (SEM) technique. It were observed that aloe vera gel finished cloth has much less bacterial adhesion. Evaluations of physical properties of the treated fabrics were done through monitoring the tensile strength, elongation, roughness, water

SANDEEP VISHWAKARMA M. Tech. (Textile Technology) D.K.T.E Society’s Textile & Engineering Institute

absorbency (wettability). Finally, the treated fabrics were evaluated as antimicrobial and characterized through the mean of Scanning electron microscope (SEM). Keyword: Antibacterial, Cotton, Herbal, Textile Finishing, Medical Textile Introduction Natural cotton means cotton that is grown without using any agriculture chemicals or any pesticides. This cotton is easily attacked by microorganisms, it causes the strength of the fiber, and elongation of the fiber looses and also changes in fiber appearance. Some treatments are done on textile material to improve the looks and quality of fabric that means finishing , but to improve the appearance, feel of the fabric and also make germ free fabric. Example -Waterproof, bullet proof, fireproof crease residents, antibacterial etc. Regular cotton is not clean and sometimes, it causes fungal infection on the human skin like rashes and skin disease. Due to this we can use antibacterial finishing agents. Antibacterial finishing agent means natural or synthetic substance that kills or inhibits the growth of microorganisms such as fungi, bacteria and algae. Antibacterial finished agent resistance against the positive gram bacteria, negative germ bacteria and mist. Some substance slowly release iodine like phenols and thio-

phenols, antibiotics, heterocyclic and anionic groups and related compounds, formaldehyde derivatives, and amines. These chemicals do not easily degrade in the environment, some of these are toxic to human. These chemicals cause cancer and other side effects. Use of synthetic product is quite risky and becoming problematic. So there is great demand antibacterial finishing agent based on eco-friendly, which reduce the ill effect of bacterial growth on textile material. Antibacterial finished cotton is used in medical application and hygiene products, air filters, ventilator, food packaging, water-purification. Nowdays, safety being very important, germ-free and bacteria-free clothes are the need of human beings. Antibacterial finishing agent can be applied by physical and chemical method and by adding functional agent on the fabric. Functional finish are two main type i.e. temporary antibacterial finish and durable antibacterial finish. Temporary antibacterial finish lose when it comes in contact with skin and body fluid or washing process, because of weak bonding of finishing agent with the surface of fabric. Durable finish achieved by adding antibacterial finishing agent into fiber in wet processing. Synthetic finishing agents are Triclosan, metal and their salts, phenols, quaternary ammonium compounds, organometallics. Metal oxides like copper

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and zinc, titanium, magnesium, silver and gold. Natural Antibacterial Agents are sourced from Neem extract, Tulsi leaves, Aloe Vera Sericin, Chitosan, Tea tree, Cinnamon, Pomegranate rind, Eucalyptus, Periwinkle, Henna leaves. Others Sources of Eco-friendly Antibacterial Agents are Chitosan, Sericin, Tea-Leaves, Eucalyptus, Clove oil, Onion skin or pulp, Adzuki beans etc. These are the different natural source of antibacterial finishing agent. Regular uses of Cotton a) Making yarns, Beds, Apparel Materials like T-Shirt, Suits and Cotton Sarees etc. b) It is used to make wick. C) For Decorations, Making Doll, Home Appliances. d) For Making Cotton Paper, Bookbinding, and Cotton Seed Oil. Need of Anti-bacterial Finished • To avoid the Infection by harmful Microorganisms.

treated sample was 98% after 50 washing. Neem Finish To control the growth of bacteria and their negative effect like odors, stain etc. This finish is applied to fabric by two methods exhaust technique and pad-dry-cure method. The concentration of neem extract is 3gpl and 5gpl. As concentration of extract increase bacterial reduction also increase. The antibacterial effect on neem treated wool fabric was durable after 20 washing. Tulsi Finish Tulsi belongs to Labiates family. It consistuent are eugenol 70%, methyl eugenol 20%, carvacrol 3%, Caryophylin etc. It exhibited bacterial reduction of 73% in challenge test. Tulsi oil have the properties to resist the growth of bacteria. This oil is added into the size paste as preservative size for application of cotton yarn in lea form. Antibacterial Finishing Methodologies

• To control and kill the microbes.

• Exhaust technique

• To arrest metabolism in microorganisms in order to reduce the formation of odor.

• Spray technique

• To increase the strength, quality of fiber and also increase the elongation of the fiber. • To improve the shine of the cotton. • For making safe fabric. For protection of cotton fabric there are many natural finishes are applied to cotton fabric these are listed below: 1. Aloe-Vera Finish 2. Neem Extract 3. Tulsi Leaves Aloe-Vera Finish To produce eco-friendly and natural finish from Aloe-Vera extract for different textile materials. Citric acid and methanol are used application of AloeVera finish to textile material. Concentration of antibacterial agent are 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 gpl. Fabric treated with concentration 5 gpl Aloe-Vera extraction are excellent. Reduction of bacteria in this case up to 99%. Finish durability to washing of antibacterial property

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the development of materials, device or system significantly improved properties due to their Nano size. Nano particles are mostly used in commercial products in the range of 1-100 nm. They have unique physical and chemical properties. Silver Nano particles (AgNPs) shows strong inhibitory and antibacterial effects. Normally preparation of AgNPs using synthetic reducing agent associated with environmental toxicity.

• Pad-dry-cure method • Microencapsulation • Coating technique

Figure No 1. Padding Mangle

Coating Technique In this method the polymetic layer is Appling on one or both sides of the fabric. Different types of techniques are used for textile coating such as spray technique, application of nanotechnology, biotechnology, plasma technology etc. Coating enhance and extend the range of functional performance properties of textile.

• Nano encapsulation Exhaust Technique This method is for application of reactive dyes as it is resistance to small changes of system variables. It involves two steps: Exhaustion and Fixation. During exhaustion dyes are exhausted from dye bath and come into the fiber phase. High electrolyte concentration is required to have adequate exhaustion of the dye. In presence of an alkali fixation of dye takes place. After the addition of the alkali, the migration of the dyes ceases and they start reacting either with the fiber or also with water molecules. After the fixation the treated fabric is thoroughly rinsed to wash off the loose unfixed dyes from the fabric materials. Pad-dry-cure Method The use of structure with a minimum of one dimension of nanometer size for

Figure No. 2 Coating Technique

Spray Technique Spray technique is that the polymer applied by spray on the fabric. This method is similar as coating technique. In modern spray dryers the viscosity of the solutions to be sprayed can be as high as 300 mPa.

Figure No. 3 Spray Technique

Microencapsulation

COVER STORY In this process, tiny particles or droplets are surrounded by coating to give small capsules with useful properties. Most microcapsules have pores with diameters between a few nanometers and a few micrometers. Coating materials are gum, carbohydrates, cellulose, lipids and protein.

A small piece of specimen is taken. Sterilized nutrient agar is poured into petri dish and allow to solidify. 24 hrs. old broth culture mixed with sterile distilled water. Gently press the specimen transversely across the streak. The streak lines should be continues without any break. Load one full loop full on diluted inoculum and mark the streak. Incubate at 37° - 2°C for 18-24 hrs. Agar diffusion plate method From this method, we can determined the effects of antibacterial agent applied on textile materials. This method is suitable for only diffusive test materials. It is easy to perform and simple.

Figure No. 4 Microencapsulation

Method

Nano-encapsulation The technology of packaging nanoparticles of solid, liquid, or gas, also known as the core or active, within a secondary material, named as the matrix or shell, to form Nano capsules.

Figure No. 6 Agar Diffusion plate method

Figure No. 5 Nano-Encapsulation

Evaluation of Antibacterial Activity Table No 1.Evaluation of Antibacterial Activity

Qualitative Quantitative Parallel Streak method Bacterial reduction method (AATCC 147-2004) (AATCC 100-2004) Agar diffusion plate method (ISO 20645) Parallel streak method

The test specimen cut into the circular manner. Placed in pre-conditioning zone at room temperature for 12-24 hrs. Standard cotton fabric with no antibacterial activity used as negative control. Pour prepared petri dish and allow to solidify. Inoculate sterile molten nutrient agar with bacterial culture (upper layer). Sterilized nutrient agar is poured into sterilized petri dish and allow to solidify (lower layer). Press the test specimen on the agar surface. Incubate at 37°C for 18-24 hrs. The presence of antimicrobial activity is indicated by the absence of bacterial growth directly below the test sample.

This method tests the ability of the treated textile to inhibit the growth of microorganisms. This is quick and easily executed qualitative method. It determines the antibacterial activity of diffusible antibacterial agent treated on textile material. This method is not suitable for samples that encapsulate and prevent the diffusion of the antibacterial agent or contain antibacterial-neutralizing substances. Method

Bacterial reduction method The ability of fabric or textile material to inhibit the growth of microorganisms or kill them, over a 24 hour’s period of contact. The assessment of antibacterial finishes on textile materials and fabric finish is determined by the degree of antibacterial activity. This method is used to demonstrate antimicrobial performance against standard bacteria. The standard microorganisms tested are Staphylococcus aurous and Klebsiella pneumonia. The test microorganism is grown in liquid culture. This method consists six main steps preparation of samples, sterilization, inoculation, incubation, washing/ shaking out, and counting. Shape of treated swatches are cut in a circular from the fabric. Stack the swatches in a wide-mouth glass jar with screw cap. The amount of swatches to be used is depends on the fiber type and fabric construction. Swatches of an equivalent fiber type and fabric construction as test sample but containing no antibacterial finish (negative control). Sterilization of samples is the optional step. It depends upon the type of fabric. Apply the dilution on the test sample for 24 hrs so that recovery from untreated control fabric swatches or treated test fabric swatches at “0” contact time. The dilution of the test organism should be made in nutrient. Incubate additional jars containing inoculated untreated control swatches and jars containing inoculated treated test swatches at 37±2°C for 18-24 hrs. After incubation, adding of neutralizing solution to jars containing untreated control swatches and to jars containing treated test swatches. Shake a jars for one minute. Then compare the sample before test and after 18 hrs. Figure No. 8 Bacterial Reduction Method

Application of antibacterial material on cotton

Figure No.7 Agar Plate

Herbal extracts from tulsi leaf and pomegranate rind have been applied to cotton fabric by the method of direct application, micro-encapsulation, resin cross-linking and their combinations. All the treatments show good antibacterial properties for the fabrics. Except the director method application, other treatment shows good washing durability up to 15 washes.

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Different application of antibacterial finished cotton • Making Hygienic Garment: - T-shirt, pants, tracksuits, baby wipes, diapers, feminine hygiene pads, and antiseptic wipes etc. • Medical application: - surgical dressings, cosmetic purposes, beds, • It is used for medical purposes, dispensaries and nursing homes to absorb the body fluids. • For making sanitary pads or napkins. • To removing make-up and dirt in beauty salon. • For making cotton masks, hand gloves, socks, etc. Result and Discussion Antibacterial activity of Aloe Vera finished cotton fabric was evaluated qualitatively by Parallel Streak Method (AATCC 147-1998) bacteria. It was observed that there is no visible growth of bacteria (both Staphylococcus aurous and Escherichia coli) on the cotton fabric treated with 200 3% (w/v) Aloe Vera concentration. However, there is no clear zone of inhibition found around 201 the treated fabric. For Aloe-Vera Finish

1 2 3 4 5

Bacteria

Staphylococcus

Finishing Agent Conc. (gpl) % of bacteria reduction after treatment 1 2 3 4 5

Table No. 4 Tulsi Finish

Sr.No. Bacteria Finishing Agent Conc. (gpl) % of bacteria reduction after treatment 1 1 84 2 2 85.1 3 Staphylococcus 3 86.35 4 4 89.15 5 5 91.74

Conclusion As compared to synthetic, natural and eco-friendly antibacterial finishing agents are excellent for textile material. Natural antibacterial agent exhibit higher efficiency. In Pad-DryCure treatment 99-100% reduction in the count of test bacteria. Synthetic antibacterial finishing agent are toxic, not easily degradable, poor laundering durability, the physical properties like strength of the fabric, elongation and moisture absorbency increase. The specimen treated with the solution containing 5gpl aloe-vera showed excellent anti-bacterial activity. The finished durability to washing of antibacterial property of the aloe vera gel treated sample is about 97 % after 20 washing cycle. But compared with aloe-vera finish, thatwashing durability of tulsi and neem finish is very poor. Reference

Table No. 2 Aloe-Vera Finish Sr.No.

For Tulsi Finish

93 94.21 96.32 97.85 99

From the Table no. 2, it was found that higher the concentration of the finishing agent more protection level from the bacteria and due to natural finish there is very negligible side effect on the body. For Neem Finish Table No. 3 Neem Finish

Sr.No. Bacteria Finishing Agent Conc. (gpl) % of bacteria reduction after treatment 1 1 91 2 2 92.21 3 Staphylococcus 3 94.32 4 4 96.85 5 5 98

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1) Asnake Ketema and Amare Worku “Antibacterial Finishing of Cotton Fabric Using Stinging Nettle Plant Leaf Extract” Journal of chemistry, April 2020. 2) C. K. Kang, S. S. Kim and S. Kim et al., “Antibacterial cotton fibers treated with silver nanoparticles and quaternary ammonium salts,” Carbohydrate Polymers, vol. 151, pp. 1012–1018, 2016.C. 3) P. Jaswal, S. AgyaPreet, and G. J. Goel, “Antimicrobial activity of herbal treated cotton fabric,” International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology, vol. 4, no. 8, pp. 39–43, 2017. 4) M P Sathianarayanan, N V Bhata, S S Kokate and V E Walunj “Antibacterial finish for cotton fabric from herbal products”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol. 35, March 2010, pp. 50-58. 5) Purwar, Roli; Mishra, Prashant and Joshi Mangala, “Antibacterial Finishing of Cotton Textiles using Neem Extract” Feb2008 Vol. 8 Issue 2, p36-43.

6) Aminoddin Haji, Majid Nasiriboroumand and Sayyed Sadroddin Qavamnia “Cotton Dyeing and Antibacterial Finishing Using Agricultural Waste by an Eco-friendly Process” Surface Methodology Fibers and Polymers, 26 November 2018, volume 19, pages2359–2364. 7) Vellingiri, K.; Ramachandran, and Senthilkumar, “Eco-Friendly Application of Nano Chitosan in Antimicrobial Coatings in the Textile Industry” Textile Journal,Mar 2018. 8) Source: Nanoscience and Nanotechnology Letters, Volume 5, Number 5, May 2013, pp. 519-529. 9) Barbara S “Structures of Novel Antimicrobial Agents for Textiles” Textile Research Journal, April 2010, pg. 80. 10) Jyoti V. Vastrad and Shameembanu, “Eco-friendly Antimicrobial Finishing of Cotton Fabric using Plant Extracts” Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci. 2018 pg. 7-15. 11) P. Mantecca and E. Moschini, P. “Toxicity evaluation of a new Zn-doped CuO nanocomposite with highly effective antibacterial properties,” Toxicological Sciences, vol. 146, no. 1, pp. 16–30, 2015. 12) V. K. Midha, A. Dakuri, and V. Midha, “Studies on the properties of nonwoven surgical gowns,” Journal of Industrial Textiles, vol. 43, no. 2, pp. 174–190, 2013. 13) S. W. Ali, S. Rajendran, and M. Joshi, “Synthesis and characterization of chitosan and silver loaded chitosan nanoparticles for bioactive polyester,” Carbohydrate Polymers, vol. 83, no. 2, pp. 438–446, 2011. 14) G. M. L. Bearman and A. Rosato, “A crossover trial of antimicrobial scrubs to reduce methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus burden on healthcare worker apparel,” Infection Control & Hospital Epidemiology, vol. 33, no. 3, pp. 268–275, 2012. 15) F. Eser and A. Onal, “Dyeing of wool and cotton with extract of the nettle (Urtica dioica L.) Leaves,” Journal of Natural Fibers, vol. 12, no. 3, pp. 222–231, 2015. 16) G. Bag, “Assessment of total flavonoid content and antioxidant activity of methanolic rhizome extract of three Hedychium species of Manipur valley,” International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 30, no. 1, pp. 154–159, 2015. 17) S. Durovic, “Chemical composition of stinging nettle leaves obtained by different analytical approaches,” Journal of Func-

COVER STORY tional Food, vol. 32, pp. 18–26, 2017. 18) C. S. Ezeonu and C. M. Ejikeme, “Qualitative and quantitative determination of phytochemical contents of indigenous Nigerian softwoods,” New Journal of Science, vol. 56, 9 pages, 2016.

19) H. Y. Fu, S. J. Chen, R. F. Chen, W. H. Ding, L. L. Kuo-Huang, and R. N. Huang, “Identification of oxalic acid and tartaric acid as major persistent pain-inducing toxins in the stinging hairs of the nettle, Urtica thunbergiana,” Annals of Botany, vol. 98, no. 1, pp. 57–65, 2006.

20) Y. Gao and R. Cranston, “Recent advances in antimicrobial treatments of textiles,” Textile Research Journal, vol. 78, no. 1, pp. 60–72, 2008. 21) S. W. Ali, “Antibacterial properties of aloe vera gel-finished cotton fabric,” Cellulose, vol. 21, no. 3, 2014.

SHRI VAISHNAV VIDHYAPEETH VISHWAVIDYALAYA

EVENT UPDATE

SHRI VAISHNAV INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

“VINIRMAH-2K21” FASHION SHOW- VIRTUAL Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya organised a Virtual Fashion show “VINIRMAH-2K21” on 09th April 2021. Mr. Ankur Badal, CEO, Arvind Limited, Ankur Business Division, Ahmedabad was the Chief Guest of the occasion. The event started with a formal inaugural session on virtual mode. The Director, SVITT Dr. R. K. Datta informed about the VINIRMAH 2K21 in detail & said that more than 50 students from various Institutes of Madhyapradesh, Gujarat and Tamilnadu etc. had registered for this event. We finalised the 24 students after the online audition. He also informed that there will be 02 rounds i.e Tradition and Western in this Fashion Show, and at the end of the program the different titles will be given to the participants along with different prizes . He also defined fashion not by mere means of clothing but as a representative of culture Dean, Faculty of Doctoral Studies & Research of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Dr.Santosh Dhar said that the main object of this

event is to enhance the creative skills and boost the self confidence in the students. It could be a good learning experience for the students .She said that Fashion plays a vital role for marketing of apparels & clothing. She also said that Fashion spreads awareness in society about the new arrivals of design. This fashion show will provide a platform for students to develop and get face fame in the fashion industry.

the occasion as Honorable Judges of the event . At the end of event, the Judges had declared the result and given different titles .That are -

Chief Guest of the occasion,Mr. Ankur Badal, CEO, Arvind Limited, Ankur Business Division, Ahmedabad addressed the gathering and said fashion industry is fast forward industry changing traditional business of textile has changed now.He advised to students to work closely with industries and understand the entire working process .You have to updated about the latest developments in industries .He also said coming time would be good for textile students with new dimension of career prospects .He briefed about the uses of sustainable fibres ,artificial intelligent in textile .Now industries are looking sustainable procedures ,less pollution and full utilization of water .He emphasised on the industry institute linkage.

Fit in Men’s Wear & Maheshwari creations provided gift vouchers to all the students participants.

Mr. Vinirmah-Mr.Mayank Jain , Ms. Vinirmah-Ms.Kusharg Chouhan Best walk (Male)-Mr.Abhijeet Falke Best walk (Female)-Ms.Kartika Namdev

Mr. Vinirmah-Mr.Mayank Jain , Ms. Vinirmah-Ms.Kusharg Chouhan Best walk (Male)-Mr.Abhijeet Falke Best walk (Female)-Ms.Kartika Namdev The masters of ceremony of the event were Mrs.Yogita Agrawal and Mrs. Punam Verma .Around more than 200 attendees virtually joined event from various industries and institutes

At the end of inaugural session Convener, VINIRMAH 2K21,Mr.Ajay Shankar Joshi proposed the words of thanks . After that Fashion show had started in virtual mode. Mr.Vikas Singh Solanki from Isha Creation ,Indore and Ms.Jigna Shah from Textile Value Chain, Mumbai graced

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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

CLOTHING FROM QMONOS FIBRES Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA Business Head (Dyes), SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

Introduction In today’s world, the use of biotechnology to develop new materials is attracting great attention worldwide. It started a few years back, when a Japanese startup called Spiber Inc. created an artificial spider silk using synthesized genes. These persuade bacteria to produce fibroin, a structural protein found in spider silk. Researchers have developed technologies to cultivate this bacteria efficiently and weave the fibroin into fabric. The protein derived from fibroin has been given the name “QMONOS” (from the Japanese phrase “kumo-no-su” meaning spider web). Researchers have for long been trying to develop technology to mass-produce a strong and flexible artificial fiber by replicating spider silk. Sprider silk has long been known for its strength and elasticity. Beating rivals the world over, Spiber has achieved a world first with its mass-produced artificial spider silk. This Japanese biotechnology company has figured out how to make spider silk without the spiders. After 11 years of research, Spiber Inc. can now spin its own environmentally-friendly synthetic spider silk. According to Vegconomist, the adaptable product is made through complex microbial fermentation. The vegan material, named Qmonos, could be used instead of petroleum-based fabrics like polyester and nylon, which are used frequently in the fashion industry – especially in sportswear – but come with a high environmental impact. If you wear something made with Qmonos, you will feel like you are in a sci-fi movie.

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It is well known that Proteins are poised to become a sustainable nextgeneration material with potential unlike any the world has ever seen. It all starts with spider silk, which is 340 times tougher than steel. Protein materials are environmentally friendly, highly customizable, and have incredible functionality. Production of Qmonos Fibres Spider silk consists of chains of amino acids spun by spiders. Spider silk has exceptional mechanical properties such as high tensile strength and extensibility. This unique combination of properties enables a silk fiber to absorb a lot of energy before breaking. That is because this, Japanese fabric is made from a synthetic spider silk, produced using microbes and spider silk genes. Spiders are territorial predators that are hard to farm to produce its silk. The silk used for fabrics is harvested from silkworms because they are friendly and thousands of them can live together happily. Unlike silkworms, spiders are not so friendly and they tend to eat one another. Furthermore, spider farming is costly because it takes around 400 spiders to produce 0.85 square meters (one square yard) of spider silk cloth.Spider silk has complex molecular structure, so it is hard to create artificial spider silk genes. The process of creating the Qmonos into four phases: 1. Design Stage: First, look at the DNA within a spider that is responsible for the creation of its silk. Then take this

base design and tweak it on a computer, optimizing it for the process and end applications. 2. DNA Synthesis Stage: Once a final design has been reached that looks good, then synthesize that DNA in the lab and incorporate it into microbes. 3. Microbial Fermentation Stage: Once these “host” microbes are prepared, then ferment them, in a process similar to fermenting beer. They are placed in a tank and provided oxygen, a temperate environment, and nutrients such as sugars which allow them to multiply and create lots of spider silk proteins (or whatever protein it is have been coded for in the DNA). 4. Materialization Stage: Then harvest the proteins and spin them into fibres in a synthetic spinning process much like with polyester or nylon. Basically, the proteins are in a liquid solution and pushed out of small pores. They then harden into fibres. It is also worth noting that fibres are not the only material that is made out of the protein polymers. They have created fibres, films, sponges, plastics, and more. However, researchers at Spiber managed to solve this problem by building their own system of Gene Synthesis; which is able to synthesize any fibroin gene, within 3 working days. They have developed a library of more than 250 types of artificial spider silk genes to date.With effective application of bioinformatics, researchers can analyse amino acid sequences and gene arrangements in order to maximize

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE strength, stability, flexibility, functionality, and molecule thermo-stability. Modified candidate genes are synthesized and then reproduced with their own protein express system by bacteria. The source of nutrients for the bacteria is sustainable biomass. Fibroin is produced through fermentation. It is then put through the refining method. The fibre is then formed from the polymer QMONOS in a spinning process. Developed using genetic engineering and bacteria, the new artificial fibre is so strong that a 1cm diameter web would be strong enough to stop a jumbo jet during take off or landing. The scientists also validate that the material could find its way into a number of products, including clothes, medical equipment and autoparts.

altered to become capable of producing spider silk would continue multiplying to 100 million bacteria within half a day in test equipment. The spider silk proteins extracted from these bacteria are first dissolved and then made into thread in the same way as other synthetic fibers. Previously, there was a problem that highly poisonous and dangerous chemicals had to be used to dissolve the spider silk; however, a safe chemical was discovered during the development of Qmonos. Another major feature of Qmonos is that, it can be dyed by mixing in colour during the process of powdering and dissolving the proteins. The resultant threads and fibres do not need to be dyed again at a later part of the process.

QMONOS can also be transformed into film, gel, sponge, powder, and nano fibre form. Spiber’s idea was to put spider silk to practical use by using microorganisms to mass produce spider silk proteins, and using a spinning process similar to those of chemical fibers. Microorganisms grow on nutrients that derive from sustainable biomasses, and this in turn enables Spiber to produce their silk without relying on petroleum resources. The company firmly believes that developing a process to produce spider silk on a large scale could revolutionize the worlds industries, allowing Spiber to build cars which have less impact upon collision, and to make bio absorbable surgical suture threads for the repair of minute blood vessels and nerves.

Spider silk has some amazing properties. It is as strong as steel, tougher than Kevlar, and lighter than carbon fibre but more flexible than nylon, yet still lightweight and comfortable. It weights 1/6th the weight of steel and 40 percent less than carbon fibre. However, farming spiders for their silk would be a very impractical venture. That is why some groups have looked into creating synthetic spider silk. Japanese company Spiber is one of those, and it recently joined forces with The North Face to create a parka made from its QMONOS fibre. Called the Moon Parka, the garment is reportedly "the world’s first piece of clothing made from artificial protein material" based on spider silk.

Therefore, the biotechnology for rewriting the “blueprints” of proteins, which are the basis of DNA in all living creatures, was used this time to develop QMONOS, aiming to make a living organism other than a spider to produce the same proteins as found in spider silk. Bacteria were chosen in place of the spider. Through bacterial cultivation, bacteria can be grown to large quantities in a short amount of time. In fact, a bacterium with its blueprint

Properties of Qmonos Fibres

The fibre is tougher than steel. For example, if a spider web was made with a fibre that has 1 cm (0.4 inches) in diameter, it could catch a jumbo jet. It is completely biodegradable and, as they say in the movies, zero spiders were harmed in the making of this fabric. Natural spider silk's impressive qualities are due mainly to a protein that it's made from, known as fibroin. Creating completely man-made fibroin in the lab has proven to be a daunting task,

so Spiber instead chose to decode the gene responsible for the production of fibroin in spiders, and then bioengineered bacteria with recombinant DNA to produce the protein. That synthetic fibroin is subsequently spun into QMONOS, which is the Japanese word for "spider." Uses of Qmonos Fibres Beside being used in clothing, the huge variety of Qmonos materials could be used in sports, space exploration, autoindustry and for a new line of accessories. It is also seven times stronger than aramid fibre, which is used for making bulletproof vests. Once the mass production technology advances and the manufacturing costs fall, the synthetic spider silk will be used for a host of purposes. It is also considered possible to make even lighter and stronger aircraft fuselages and automotive parts by mixing the spider silk with carbon fibre and other materials and to manufacture artificial blood vessels and surgical thread by using this light, soft, and durable material. It could also be used for material in space suits by utilizing its strong resistance to UV. The pioneer has already partnered with the Japanese ski clothing label Goldwin to make a ski jacket with its product. Named the Moon Parka, the spider silk-based jacket will be able to withstand significant wear and tear when the wearer is participating in extreme sports. The new developed spinning technology from scratch and have achieved fibre toughness comparable to natural spider silk. Qmonos has been developed on the basis of fibre forming technology that can be scaled up for mass production. To mass produce the new material Qmonos, a facility capable of producing 100 kg per month will be constructed in Yamagata prefecture in near future. The plan is to raise monthly output to 50 tons by 2022.

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PROJECT

OUTLINE OF A NEW $30 MLN PROJECT FOR A COMPOSITE POLY FIBER MANUFACTURING UNIT OF 90 TPD OF RECYCLED POLYESTER FIBER, WITH YARN SPG UNIT OF 30 TPD, AND INVESTMENT FEASIBLE AND VIABLE IN 2 PROJECT PHASES BASED ON RECYCLED PET BOTTLES | TO PET CHIPS & FIBER | TO POLY YARNS

MUNISH TYAGI International Textile consultant and Textile Industry thought leader

Project overview The Project PROPOSAL, under reference of this Sustainability project for circular economy manufacturing route, is based on recycling of PET bottles via creation of polyester chips and onwards `value addition` into regenerated Polyester fiber and its spinning into textile Polyester yarn for knitting and weaving use. The fully integrated projecy proposal, is for setting up a new greenfield globally competitive Textile manufacturing unit for regenerated PSF Polyester staple Fiber, of hollow and solid type for textile spun yarn grade, with installed capacity of 90 to 100 Ton/Day, and of this output 30 TPD of polyester fiber will be consumed for inhouse Yarn spinning [via Ring and OE spinning systems]. Both the chosen products, are being increasingly supported in global markets by all major MNC textile brands like H & M, GAP, Adidas, Nike that are progressively switching over to such textile and apparels produced under `circular economy` mode. Both, the regen. PSF fiber and the spun polyester yarns, are in good demand for productions of value added textile fabric and technical textiles, like knitting yarns, fabric and eventually apparels for use by consumers, as also technical textiles like felts, filters media. Polyester (PET) is the most widely used fibre in the apparel industry, accounting for around 52% of the total volume of fibres produced globally. The apparel industry accounts for around 32 million tons of such 57 million tons of polyester used each year, and is now calling for increased use of recycled Poly. Such polyester fiber is also used

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widely in technical textiles and for hygience and PPE medical products. Components for Proposed composite Project The integrated pet bottle to textile yarn proj.to have 3 componets [a] Production of approx. 90 to 100 Ton/Day of PET Chips [textile grade] from input of 100x1.3 Ton/day of recycled PET bottles, and followed by [b] Production of approx. 90 Ton/Day of regenerated Polyster Fiber [PSF] for use in Textile Yarn spinning and for the use as hollow fiber as Filler for home textiles and for Techni-

PROJECT cal textiles such as felts and Filter media etc. [c] Production of last `value chain` item of Polyester Textiles yarns; total 30 Ton/day, of both Ring spun and OE type for use in textile knitting and weaving. The breakup of capacities for above 3 Basic and valueadded products to be as per project configuration below:

The USP of the plant configuration to be added is the induction of single line [CPF] Homogenisaion and Polymer chemical regeneration unit for the PET flake melt, for creating pure and high strength quality of Pet chips and, PSF fiber and Yarn thereof.

Textile grade Poly Chips_100 TPD

To produce fiber from 1.5 Denier to 15 Denier range

We advise to implement a 90 to 100 Tons per day Regenerated/ Recycled Polyester Staple Fiber manufacturing unit, to produce both solid and hollow type Fibers, which will utilize recycled PET Bottles [at average yield of 70%] as the starting and basic raw material for manufacturing of textile grade PET and `value added` textile grade regen PSF fiber which is to be of both solid and hollow type for textile end uses. The project can also produce `colored` fibers by adding master batch into Pet polymer melt.

Regen. Polyester Fiber -Textile grade P

Avg. 1.56 Denier, tenacity 65 to 70 gpd.

Regen. Polyester Fiber - non Textiles

Of type hollow, silicon - 3 Den. to 15 Den.

Final Polyester Ring Yarn, for Knitting

20 TPD, on 15840 Ring spdl. spinning

Final Polyester OE Yarn, for Weaving

10 TPD, on 2 x 500 Open end rotors

Total of All Production Lines

Pet Chips_100 tpd, PSF fiber_90 tpd,

Of this PSF fiber output, and for eventual and final `value addition ` about 31 Tons per Day of inhouse PSF fiber will be consumed for captive Yarn spinning unit to produce approx. 30 Tons per day of `value added`Ring and OE spun polyester yarns of textile grade for sale to fabric making knitting and weaving mills in the textile hubs like Egypt, Morocco, Ethiopia, Kenya and other markets like Iran and the CIS countries. Such yarns can be spun from the regen Poly fiber of both grey SD type and/or of colored type.

Product Details

Project Configuration

Notes: The Input/Output Norm of 1Kg of Regen PSF fiber till upto spun Yarn, consuming 1.3 Kg of PET input bottles, are assumed as per the industry norms. Here, it should be noted that the entire manufacturing process for RPSF can be divided into three processes, that is 1] Pet bottle washing and making of usable Pet chips, 2] Melting and drawing out of chips to make textile grade PSF or polyester fiber,and 3] Ultimate conversion of part of PSF fiber output into textile grade polyester spun yarns. • Bottle Crushing and Washing Line to produce flakes – the used/recycled PET Bottle waste is crushed, washed and converted into PET Flakes[100 TPD].This would require 2 nos.of PET washing lines,each of 2.5 Ton/ Hour capacity. • Poly Spinning and Fiber Line – The PET Flakes are then fed into polymer spinning line and fiber line to manufacture the product i.e .regen PSF fiber for textile and Fiberfill enduses. Such fiber to be of type Solid and hollow for fiber fill uses. Final Value addition to 30 ton/day of inhouse PSF fiber, via captive yarn spinning on 15840 spindles, and 1000 OE spg. rotors, supported by 2 Blow room lines for fiber opening and balanced on 11 nos. Ring frame and 2 OE spg. frames for Yarn spinning in counr range of 7s Ne to 24s Ne.

With the induction of Annealer and Finisher or Homogeniser [in the Pet chip to fiber making line, for polymer melt] plants in the production line, the project will be producing textile grade fiber of high tenacity i.e 6.5 gpd plus. The end use for the output regenerated fibre will be 100% Textile Grade fiber of solid cross section, in popular 1.2 to 2.2 Deniers. The other PSF fiber will be for types hollow for Fiberfill, and for other uses as for nonwoven felts and technical textile uses. The rationale for product price, for Regen. PSF fiber, for textile grade. With the induction of Finisher unit in the main production plant, the project would produce high strength HT fiber in range 1.2 to 2.2 denier, for textile yarn spinning end uses. This fiber can be spun on both Ring spun and Open end spg systems, and competes `virgin`fiber due to its quality and strength. At present day and period, the price for such regen. PSF fiber is ruling between 100-105 Rs./kg for the Grey fiber and Rs.110-115 /Kg for the dope Dyed [ before GST, Vat etc] and matches the industry norm of Rs. 45 to 55 / Kg over and above the landed price of the recycled PET bottles, used as basic raw material. Overall, such recycled Poly. fiber yet remains lower by Rs 10 to virgin. Project Cost Estimate The Fixed capital project cost of the fully Integrated Greenfield project comprising of 90 TPD regen Polyester Fiber manufacturing with inhouse polyester spun Yarn spinning project of 15840 spindles and 1000 OE rotors , has been estimated at INR 2250 Million; and that is equivalent of USD 20.5 Million,per todays FE exchange rate. The Summary of the project cost has been provided in INR Million,as per tablet below – Each of the sub-heads of the overall project cost to be broken-up and to be detailed in the subsequent Project

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PROJECT

All Figures in INR Million Description Land and Land Development, for 22 Acres plot Buildings and Civil Works for Pet Bottle washing to Chips, PSF Fiber spinning, and 2 nos. Yarn spinning units. Plant and Machinery, all Imported CIF only, [before Duty, & installed at site] and incl Pet bottle wash & Fiber manufacturing and Yarn Spinning units Plant and Machinery, all Imported CIF only, [before Duty & installed at site] and incl 20 TPD Ring Spg plantand, 10 TPD OE Yarn spg.plant Pre-Operative exp, and Misc-Excluding Working capital marginetc Total Fixed Capital based, Project Cost Notes: Fixed Cost above excludes Cost of any Land and Working Capital funds. Total Fixed Capital based, Project Cost, as above, in USD Million

Total,INR Mln ----400 1000 750 100 2250 INR Million $ 30 Million

Feasibility Report, alongwith Project Financial Viability model etc. The proposed Means of Financing such projects under Indian Banking norms is based on the standard Debt-equity ratio of approx. 30% that is, Promoters share of $ 10 Million, and balance as Debt or banks Term Loan of abt. $ 2o million.

spinning and 100 rotor OE Spg. Unit of Rieter Switz. to produce total of 30 Tons of polyester yarns from own In-house produced regenerated PSF fiber for inhouse `value addition’, the overall project cost is at par with current standards and reasonable vis a vis towards long-term sustainability and viability of future profitable business operations.

Project Utilities and Manpower

It is recommended to implement the project on time bound target with Phase 1 from recycled Pet bottles to regen PSF manufacturing ,and followed by Phase 2 over next 1 year for setting up 2 In-house Yarn Spg units to produce 30 to 40 tons of recycled yarns. However, all Buildings to be done in Phase1, and Mcy induction is advised in 2 Phases.

Other than the prime Raw material and input of recycle PET bottles, of all types/sizes. colors etc the integrated PSF fiber and poleyster yarn spining project will be requiring consumables materials as Chemicals, colored master batch chips and packing materials for fiber and yarn packing etc. The other Key utiltiies and services required for the Inegrated project are: 1] Manpower, for 3 shift working, Total of 450 Nos./ Day; and incl.Yarn SPG 2] Electrical Power: total 5 MW, incl. both PSF fiber and 2 Yarn Spg. lines 3] Steam requirement is about 2.5 Ton/Hour, peferably from 1 Steam boiler. 4] Water requirement is rather large mainly due to per bottle and at 400 Mln Ltr/Year, of which 80% recycled. 5] Project would also require a modern Zero Discharge type ETP plant. Rationale & Recommendations The consultants have rationalized the overall project configuration and its cost by selecting an optimum mix of imported Technology, its plant and machineries. The main Fiber manufacturing plant will be imported from best of high tech and cost effective suppliers in China, while the spun Yarn spinning plants will be sourced from globally reputed Rieter in Switzerland that has advanced process technology for recycling and spinning of regen Fiber into almost vurgin quality spun yarns. Taking these aspects into consideration and based on the project plan to include a 15840 Ring spdl spun Yarn

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Turnkey Project Planning from Pre-Project consultancy, till `On-Site` Execution Services, over both Phases of 18-20 Months, are available from Nuovatex Projects Co, based at New Delhi, India. Having successfully planned and delivered a no. of such recycled fiber to spinning Textile projects, with foot print in India and 5 countries including the CIS, Mid East., NE Africa and others. To begin with, the first initial step advised is to commission a 45-60 day duration, Project Pre-feasibility Report to guide the managements on all aspects of the discussed and integrated Project based on recycled PET bottles, and for location closer to a seaport/ ICD.

INTERVIEW

ENTWINING FOR ECO-FRIENDLY GARMS: LENZING With

FLORIAN HEUBRANDNER TENCEL™ is Lenzing’s flagship brand for textiles. Used for a variety of highly specialized applications, the benefits of TENCEL™ fibers can be discerned instantly: Soft to the skin, smooth to the touch, luxurious in shine and flow— they caress the senses. And convince minds with their exceptional capacity for thermal regulation and moisture absorption.

exchange ideas to unite different perspectives, understand global industry and consumer trends, and find ways to better reduce different operational risks. What are some of the latest new textile product development strategies? How frequently does Lenzing launch its product development innovations?

The TENCEL™ product range offers special solutions for even highly sophisticated applications. Carefully considering individual requirements right from the beginning, our fiber production can be customized for each application’s specifications.

Below are some principles when devising our development strategies in the textile industry: Partner with industry stakeholders for sustainable change Find ways to ‘green up’ the value chain

Lenzing continues to demonstrate how we can reduce our ecological footprint. What is Lenzing’s selection criteria for collaboration with textile value chain partners (i.e. yarn, fabric manufacturers)? How does Lenzing choose their industry partners? At Lenzing, we pursue a common goal with our textile partners: to offer products that have great performance and certified sustainability. Products that we make with our partners are soft, gentle on the skin, and provide an added layer of comfort in knowing that what our customers are wearing are sustainably sourced and made. Lenzing’s sustainable fiber innovations are not enough. We can only create lasting sustainable change if every level of the textile supply chain is equally committed and working collaboratively

TRICIA CAREY

Implement circular economy for the broader ecosystem towards a common goal. Lenzing leads from the front and has taken the initiative to work hand-inhand with different industry stakeholders to develop smart and impactful solutions. We actively welcome collaboration with likeminded stakeholders who share the same aspirations as us and are willing to create change to make the world a better place.

Develop innovations that act as solutions to evolving customer needs Launch new offerings to improve the environmental impact throughout the value chain Combining Lenzing’s ambition to improve people’s lives and pioneering spirit, we are not only generating new

Key requirements of sustainability should include preserving natural resources, protecting the climate, offering fair working conditions, and promoting the circular economy. High levels of transparency and close collaboration facilitate stronger trust with our partners, and so we regularly

APRIL 2021

INTERVIEW

fiber ideas but also improving our existing products through collaborations with partners along the value chain. Research and Development plays a large role in our innovation process. Anchored in scientific fundamentals for new fiber developments, we develop the textile applications in our inhouse facilities whilst consulting with our value chain partners. Lenzing currently holds 1,274 patent applications and patents for a total of 215 patent groups in 49 countries across all segments. With the ever-evolving textile industry, we will not be limited by boundaries and will continue to produce comfortable and high-quality preferred fibers that set even higher sustainability benchmarks for the industry. Along with our key partners, we can further tailor our textile offerings to achieve greater sustainability heights. This will help us safeguard resources for future generations. Can you tell us something about Lenzing’s botanic fibers? The textile industry, especially in fashion, is facing significant challenges, and consumer behavior is consistently shifting. Across the board, consumers are becoming far more conscious about sustainability. For the TENCEL™ brand, we are proud to be recognized by industry leaders for our innovations in cellulosic fiber technology, eco-responsible production processes, and our commitment to circular economy. At Lenzing, our TENCEL™ lyocell and modal branded fibers are from botanic origin and are produced using wood pulp sourced from sustainably managed forests, hence they are certified botanic, compostable and biodegradable. Our TENCEL™ branded fibers offer a range of other features, such as gentleness on skin, long-lasting softness, increased breathability and color retention. The TENCEL™ brand is unique in its ability to provide consumers with the confidence that their clothing choices contain fibers conforming to the highest of environmental standards and deliver on the expectations of quality,

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TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color Technology comfort and aesthetics concurrently. What’s your take on retailers becoming increasingly environmentally friendly, and how has Lenzing been helping retailers to boost their sustainability credentials? More and more retailers are realizing the need for greater transparency and sustainability, with the general trajectory heading toward a textile industry ecosystem that values higher quality products. Adding to the rise of conscious consumers driving up the demand for eco-friendly products, retailers have to strongly re-evaluate their existing practices and actively pursuit a more sustainable business model. A key part to Lenzing’s success over the past 80 years is maintaining our longterm relationships with industry partners and customers. Beyond producing and innovating high quality sustainable fibers and technologies, Lenzing also has a goal of helping brands transition into a more competitive and sustainable model. For brands taking the first step towards becoming more environmentally responsible, we step in as an industry consultant. Through educational sessions, we hope to deliver added value by connecting retailers with fabric mills, spinners or other partners truly providing sustainable solutions. It is important for brands to communicate exactly where their products

came from. However, not all have the capability to do so. Seeing the growing demand for goods that are ethically produced and transparent, Lenzing introduced an e-branding online service platform for industry partners to easily showcase their use of Lenzing fibers through certification and licensing application. This further boosts their sustainability credentials to consumers. Recently, we’ve also collaborated with a blockchain-enabled supply chain traceability platform for our textile customers, maximizing transparency and providing a secure digital chain of custody across the entire ecosystem, from fiber to garment production. Through this pioneering platform, retailers can easily achieve supply chain transparency. What’s Lenzing fiber business’ market share in India and also across the world? Throughout the years, we have seen an increasing number of Indian fashion brands eager to know more about TENCEL™ or launching collections using TENCEL™ branded fibers. We have also seen an increasing awareness on sustainability amongst the Indian community, as a result we want to be a part of and facilitate conversations surrounding sustainability. We believe that our experience in pioneering sustainability provides us with the opportunity to partner with local brands and enhance the visibility on sustainable fibers. In India we have seen the

INTERVIEW consumption pattern of our fibers has been steadily increasing in the last few years. The textile segment has always been the core part of Lenzing’s business. Throughout the years, as consumers’ awareness on sustainability increased, many brands were forced to rethink their business strategies and launch more collections and pieces made with eco-friendly fibers, therefore we have been witnessing a positive growth in our global textile business. In parallel, as an industry pioneer on sustainability, we have also been investing heavily in our R&D programs and are dedicated to finding ways to drive further industry innovations and supporting the ecosystem to become more sustainable. New launches and development plans for 2021 and beyond are in the works. We will continue to work closely with brands, retailers, and value chain partners from all regions on the development of innovative and sustainable offerings, which can further improve the environmental credentials and exposure of TENCEL™ branded fibers. Can you share with us some more information on how the TENCEL™ Modal fiber with Indigo Color technology works? What is the production process like? The Indigo Color technology is a onestep spun dyeing process that incorporates indigo pigment into TENCEL™ Modal fibers and has a smaller carbon footprint. Based on our testing when comparing this innovation to conventional powder indigo dyeing and pre-

reduced liquid indigo dyeing, the resource savings are significant: Water savings: 99% Chemical savings: 80% Electricity savings: 99% Wastewater savings: 99% Heat energy savings: 100% In general, the higher the percentage of TENCEL™ Modal fibers with Indigo Color technology used in the fabric, the greater the potential savings over traditional range rope dyed indigo yarns. This is an innovative indigo application process. Produced in Austria, predominantly from beech wood derived from sustainably managed wood sources, this new offering has been designated BioPreferred® by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and Standard 100 Oekotex class 1 certification. We are very fortunate to have a strong foundation in the environmentally responsible fibers we produce. Throughout our tenure we have consistently strengthened our leading environmental credibility for years after the original launch working with suppliers and brands to develop products. This is because, with every innovation, we never work in a silo and never think only about short-term gains. We actively collaborate with all partners and make a point of understanding their challenges now, the fashion industry and where we all must go.

Further, our strong focus on R&D allows us to drive the forefront of what sustainable textiles means, with a foot firmly planted in both the present and the future for maximum product longevity. After all, to know where you need to go, you must always understand where you’ve come from. In short, our forward-thinking approach to innovation allows us to bring to market future-proof fibers with a lower environmental footprint for the industry. What are the benefits of having a specially commissioned indigo pigment from dyestuff manufacturer DyStar®? Lenzing commissioned DyStar® to create an indigo pigment to meet the strict requirements of Oeko-tex Class 1 standard, including ultra-low levels of aniline, to use in the dope dyeing process. Aniline is a precursor for synthetic indigo, and aniline impurities remain on fabric after it has been dyed. Oeko-Tex and Bluesign have placed limits on aniline in their standards, and a number of brands include aniline on their restricted substance lists. How does TENCEL™ Modal fiber with Indigo Color technology expand denim fabrics and garments’ performances and aesthetics while being eco-friendly? For us, it is not thinking about of the way something has always been made, but rather coming up with new products, constructions, and applications. The use of the TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology fiber provides a solution for the challenges of using traditional indigo yarns which have high crocking issues. We see endless possibilities to use TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology alone or in combination with other low-impact developments for applications like knitwear, flat knits, shoes, bags, home furnishings and more. The use of our new fibers has no design limitations and add the additional comfort of sustainable consumption for our designers and consumers. Denim is tackling all the major apparel industry challenges to reduce the environmental impact. Addressing the need for

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INTERVIEW

comfort apparel with joggers, looser fits, and even knits. Tell us about your collaboration with the “Godfather of Denim” Adriano Goldschmied, founder of House of Gold, for a capsule collection using the new offering and also partnerships with denim mills Candiani and Cone Denim to commercialize the launch. Since I started working for the TENCEL™ brand in 1998, Adriano has always been interested in our TENCEL™ branded fibers. For the past 10 years, Adriano has been one of the leading advocates for the denim industry to lower their environmental impact. So, it was a natural process that we work together on this new denim innovation. While working with Adriano, he was unafraid to challenge the status quo and seek new ideas. It was a great privilege to work with such a legendary designer, his longstanding push for sustainability coupled with his industry experience made the collaboration a truly productive and insightful experience. We are also working with leading denim mills, Candiani from Italy and Cone Denim from USA. Both of these

NEWS

mills interpreted the use of TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology in their own way. Candiani developed a weft-blend, while Cone Denim blended with hemp fibers. Can you share with us some examples of how you helped your denim co-brand partners to tackle their problems and what solutions Lenzing provided? Beyond technological solutions, Lenzing also provides a wide variety of advisory and insights from our executives and thought leaders. Some of these include: Brands should always think of ways to address circularity in their production process, starting with vintage or upcycle concepts. Even textile recycling can happen with fibers like TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ technology where cotton waste is upcycled to make a new fiber. Sustainability is a primary focus for denim and will continue to be in the long-term, as manufacturing of sustainable denim continues to increase, so too are consumers indicating a preference for brands that implement ecosustainability in their denim production. These consumers are interested, active and engaged in the conversa-

tions that we are having on becoming more eco-friendly as a planet and as such brands need to participate and provide avenues for that conversation Supply chain transparency is also developing rapidly, consumers are deeply interested in knowing exactly how their denim is made and where it came from. For brands to succeed in this respect they need to develop comprehensive resources that highlight each step of the process from fiber to shelf. Authenticity is another important factor for brands – instead of making false sustainability claims and greenwashing campaigns, brands should highlight real initiatives and actions they are taking to gain and/or maintain the trust of their consumers. Collaboration is the only way to drive further change in the industry. From inception of idea to co-branding at the consumer level, we are involved in every step of the way. From our Kings of Indigo collection pop-up shop with TENCEL™ Denim, to the Guess collection launch of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ technology, we support the storytelling of our brand partners. Our brand new TENCEL™ online e-Shop also includes global denim brand – Levis.

MAIRE TECNIMONT AWARDED EPCC CONTRACT FOR IOCL’S NEW PARA-XYLENE PLANT

Maire Tecnimont S.p.A. (Rome, Italy) reported that a consortium made out of its auxiliaries Tecnimont S.p.A. what's more, Mumbai-based Tecnimont Private Limited has been granted an EPCC (Engineering, Procurement, Construction and Commissioning) Lump-Sum contract by Indian Oil Corporation Limited (IOCL), for the execution of another Para-Xylene (PX) plant and the pertinent offsites offices. The plant will be situated in Paradip, in the State of Odisha, in Eastern India. The general worth of the agreement is about $450 million. The extent of work involves EPCC exercises up to the Performance Guarantees Test Run. When finished, the new PX plant will have a limit of 800,000 metric tons each year (m.t./yr). The time plan is 33 months

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for Mechanical Completion from the honor date. The PX created will be utilized to take care of the nearby PTA (Purified Terephthalic Acid) unit, along these lines guaranteeing accessibility of a-list feedstock that will give a critical lift to the Country's assembling industry. PX is a middle of the road building block for the petrochemical esteem chain, fundamental for the union of a few polymers, especially PET (polyethylene terephthalate, otherwise called polyester) which is utilized in various mechanical applications in consistently life in the bundling, corrective and drug ventures, to make reference to a few. Pierroberto Folgiero, Maire Tecnimont

Group Chief Executive Officer, remarked: "We are truly happy that our relationship with a noticeable player, for example, IOCL continues developing consistently with another essential agreement to support the Country's normal assets change limit with the best accessible innovations, along these lines guaranteeing ecologically best performing items and cycles. As India is making ready for a huge rush of interests in the downstream portion to meet the quickly developing homegrown interest for plastic items and intermediates, we are best situated to take advantage of new impending lucky breaks, on account of our mechanical mentality just as our recorded nearby presence through our Indian designing center point Tecnimont Private Limited".

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PROPERTY ENHANCEMENT OF COTTON NONWOVENS USING ECO-FRIENDLY BIOACTIVE TERMINALIA CHEBULA

PROF (DR.) M. D. TELI EX DEAN & HOD: FIBRES & TEXTILE PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY, INSTITUTE OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI

Abstract With the growing popularity of ecofriendly and sustainable textiles, a paradigm shift is observed in selection of high end use health and hygiene products. Cotton nonwovens treated with bioactive extract from the herb T. chebula could have a positive cradle to grave impact. The energy and time efficient manufacturing along ease of recyclability and biodegradability improves the cotton nonwovens Life Cycle Assessment (LAC) implication. Application of the aqueous extract of T. chebula rich in tannins and other antimicrobial agents provides an effective environment friendly finish. It improved the fibre’s, UV protection abilities, light fastness and perspiration fastness along with antimicrobial properties. Key Words: Antimicrobial, eco-friendly, Cotton, nonwoven, T. chebula, 1. Introduction The health and hygiene sector has seen a large growth spurt ever since the invention of cellulosic nonwoven fabrics. It is perceived that the global market for nonwoven fabrics will see a steady growth from USD 40.5 million in 2020 to USD 53.5 billion by 2025 K/S [1].

Dr. A. J. SHUKLA HEAD: DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE AND APPAREL DESIGNING, S.V.T. COLLEGE OF HOME SCIENCE (AUTONOMOUS) S.N.D.T. WOMEN’S UNIVERSITY, MUMBAI

Nonwovens can provide good bacterial barrier textiles, as seen by the vast use of face masks and PPE kits in today’s COVID-19 scenario. It is therefore not surprising that cellulosic fibres are one of the top contenders in the ever expending field of nonwovens. The application of speciality finishes to them further provides good antimicrobial properties, ultra-violet protection, high absorption etc. But to meet the demand of these high end use products they are coated with chemicals that include inorganic salts, iodophors, phenols and thiophenols, formaldehyde derivatives and amines [2, 3], which may not always be ideal. Simultaneously, cotton as a natural fibre with its well known properties of absorption, breathability, strength is fast becoming the fibre of choice within an aware and discerning market. When constructed by the nonwoven process, it leads to further reduction in time and energy. Its eco-friendly end of product lifecycle is an added advantage. Making it a cheap viable option for a number of skin friendly health and hygiene products, which can be further enhanced with the use of environmentally friendly antimicrobial treatments.

Figure 1. Terminalia chebula (Harda) Source:https://images.app.goo. gl/2FfcVDs5nMxdsQ5A8

The application of Terminalia chebula (T. chebula) commonly known as Harda in the Indian Sub-continent provides the potential to create a sustainable finishing treatment, (Figure 1). Extracts of T. chebula are known to contain polyphenols and ellagitannins. The presence of 30-35 % tannin, thus enables the retention of colouring matter permanently post washing [4]. Harda also plays a role in the inhibition of bacterial growth on textiles. Its high tannin content binds the enzymes and proteins that make up the cell wall structure of micro-organisms thereby restricting its growth [5]. The process of uniform dyeing with natural plant extracts on woven cotton

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fabrics usually involves constant stirring and agitation for extended time frames. This cannot be practiced on nonwoven fabrics as it would result in disturbance of its physical structure. Literature on the dyeing and fixation of nonwoven fabrics with natural dyes is scarce. The aim of this paper therefore is to report the potential benefits of Terminalia chebula fruit extract as a “green” agent and its application, optimization and evaluation on cotton nonwoven fabrics of varying GSM’s. 2. Materials and Methods 2.1. Material: T. chebula dried powder was procured from Adiv Pure Natural, Mumbai, India. Cotton nonwoven, needle punched fabric of 100 GSM and 200 GSM were purchased from Tata Mills, Mumbai. All chemicals used were laboratory grade. 2.2. Methods Methods of aqueous extraction For the three extraction methods mentioned below 10 grams of T. chebula powder along with 100 ml distilled water was heated for one hour. a. Open bath extraction: The powdered herb mixed in distilled water was heated and constantly stirred in an open bath. b. Reflux Method of extraction: The T. chebula powder was refluxed in a round bottom flask attached to a water jacketed condenser. This allowed for the condensation of vapours back into the flask. c. Rota Dyer: Vigorous agitation and constant temperature were used for extraction in a rota dyer The extract obtained was filtered and subjected to 10 minutes of centrifugation at 3000 revolutions per minute. It was followed by filtration using a Grade 2 sintered glass crucible. A pure aqueous extract of T. chebula was then obtained. Fabric treatment with obtained extract

Padding of the nonwovens was carried out on a vertical two-bowl pneumatic padding mangle at concentrations of 20% and squeeze rollers were set to achieve 80% wet pick-up. It was followed by fixation either by drying or steaming at varying temperatures and time intervals to optimize the process. After optimization all further samples were dried at 120oC for 3 minutes. 2.3. Evaluations and Tests performed a. Wavelength of maximum absorption: For measurement of wave length of maximum absorption the extract was analysed through a UV-VIS 8500, UV-visible spectrometer of Hitachi, Japan. Once the (λmax) was determined it was used as a fixed point to analyse color concentration levels of all the three extracts diluted to identical levels. b. Colour strength properties of dyed cotton nonwovens: Colour characteristic measurements A Rayscan SpectraScan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories was used to analyse the dyed samples. The K/S values were determined using the formula: K/S=(1-R)2/2R, wherein; K is Absorption coefficient, S is Scattering coefficient and R is reflectance at complete opacity. An average of 4 reflectance measurements were noted each from four different sample areas.

ing of the undyed samples were assessed using a grey scale. d. Ultraviolet Protection Factor- The (AS/NZ) 4399:1996. UPF ratings were noted in the range of 290-400 nm. The classes were identified as 15-24 (Good), 25-39 (Very Good), 40 and above (Excellent). e. Antibacterial properties- The AATCC Test Method 100-2004 (AATCC technical manual, 2007) was used. To determine antibacterial effectiveness of the dyed cotton nonwovens. Escherichia coli (E.coli) and Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) were used as inoculants. The reduction in bacterial colonies was estimated by the equation R=100 (B-A)/B, wherein R=% reduction of bacterial count A= Bacterial colonies recovered from treated specimens incubated for 24 hr contact period. B= Bacterial colonies recovered from untreated specimens immediately after inoculation (as “0” contact time). 3. Results and Discussion 3.1 Identification of wavelength of maximum absorption

Colour space values The Spectra flash® SF 300 was used to evaluate the dyed nonwovens CIELAB colour space (L*, a*, b* and H*) values. This enabled understanding of tonal variations achieved on the samples, (Where L* corresponds to brightness, a* to red-green coordinates and b* to yellow-blue coordinates). c. Colour fastness properties Colour fastness to light- The ISO 105: B02:1994 was used for assessing light fastness. Assessment was done using the blue wool scale. The rating ranged from 1-8, (Where 1 is poor, 2-fair, 3-moderate, 4-good, 5-better, 6-very good, 7-best and 8 is excellent). Colour Fastness to Perspiration- Test method used was ISO 105:E04. The colour change of sample and the stain-

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Figure 2. UV-Visible absorption spectrum of aqueous extract from T. chebula

The extracts from all three processes contain flavonoids observed by a broad band formed between 340-385 nm as shown in Figure 1. A typical UV-Visible spectra of flavonoids includes Band A that lies in the range of 310nm -350nm indicating flavones and Band B that lies in the 350nm-385nm range indicating the flavonoid subgroups [6]. A sharp peak displayed at 365.50nm in

PEER REVIEWED PAPER the graph also ascertains presence of flavonols as the major constituent in the aqueous extract (Figure 2).

dried samples exhibit redder tones as compared to the greener shades displayed in the steamed samples.

3.2. Comparative study of the three aqueous extraction methods

The K/S values of 100 GSM cotton nonwoven samples pad-dyed dried and pad-dyed steamed at varying time intervals are noted in Table 2. All “L”

The extract obtained from the reflux method was observed to give the highest concentration at 0.6304. Followed by 0.5260 for Rota dyer method and minimum being 0.3419 for the open bath method. The optical density values were compared at 365.50nm. The reason could be the constant evaporation and condensation of the distilled water washing the herbal powder and promoting maximum extraction during refluxing. 3.3. Colour characteristics of cotton nonwovens pad-dyed with T.chebula aqueous extract In order to optimise extract fixation method on 200 GSM cotton nonwovens. The aqueous extract was initially padded with 20% concentration followed by fixation either through drying (D) or steaming (S). Effect of varying temperatures on K/S values of pad-dyed dried and pad-dyed steamed 200 GSM cotton nonwovens with initial time of 3 minutes are noted in Table 1. The highest K/S values were observed for cottons steamed and dried at 100° C. Overall reduction by 40% in K/S values was observed in the steamed nonwovens. On the other hand the dried samples displayed an encouraging rise by 22% while increasing temperature from 90° C to 100° C. No dramatic increase was observed with further increase in temperature. But with respect to colour coordinates all L*, a*, b* values are within the 70-100 range, thus indicating bright shades with deep tones of yellow. The Table 1. Effect of temperature on K/S values of steamed or dried 200 GSM cotton nonwovens Fixation Temp. (° K/S b* a* L* Process C) 100 2.38 75.8 0.03 25.65 110 75 -0.39 25.43 2.01 Steaming 75.23 -0.4 25.42 2.04 120 23.48 1.43 0.37 72.39 130 1.43 22.78 1.85 72.21 90 1.74 23.66 1.91 73.39 100 Drying 1.72 110 73.32 23.66 1.92 120 73.29 1.97 23.64 1.72 Note: Fixation time 3 mins

Table 2. Effect of temperature on K/S values of and steamed 100 GSM cotton nonwovens Fixation Time, a* b* L* Process mins -0.66 23.28 81.97 1 81.51 -0.56 23.02 3 Steaming 5 77.58 0.95 19.53 20.75 0.15 78.22 7 0.93 19.48 10 79.2 1 78.81 0.98 20.53 3 78.86 0.972 20.52 1.09 19.64 77.58 Drying 5 7 80.4 0.28 19.71 10 81.86 0.39 18.97

dried K/S 2.9 2.75 1.54 1.29 1.08 1.78 1.74 1.51 0.9 0.99

Note: Fixation temperature 120° C

values indicate that an overall bright shade with prominent tones of yellow was achieved. With steamed samples displaying highest results. 3.4. Fastness Properties Colour fastness to washing Colour fastness to washing was used to decide the optimization of the fixation Table 3. Assessment of wash fastness of treated samples using various temperatures Fixation Temp. (0 CC SC SW Method C) 100 3 3-Feb 3-Feb Steamin 110 3-Feb 3-Feb 2 g 120 3-Feb 3-Feb 2 130 3-Feb 3-Feb 2 90 3-Feb 3 3 100 4-Mar 4-Mar 4-Mar Drying 110 4-Mar 4 4-Mar 120 4 4 4-Mar Note: Fixation time – 3 mins, CC= Change in colour, SC= Staining in cotton, SW= Staining in wool

methods for the aqueous extract padded samples. The results for varying temperatures and time intervals are noted in Table 3 and Table 4. Studies on cotton indicate that the wash fastness of a dye is influenced by the rate of diffusion and state of dye particle inside the fibre [7]. The effect of varying fixation methods

and temperatures on te wash fastness of the cotton nonwovens have been recorded in Table 3. They conclude that a samples dried at 120° C offer optimum Table 4. Assessment of wash fastness of treated samples using various time intervals CC SC SW Fixation Method Time, 1 3-Feb 2 2 3 3 3 3-Feb Steaming (100° C) 5 3 3 3-Feb 7 3 3-Feb 3-Feb 10 3 3 3-Feb 1 3-Feb 3 3 3 4-Mar 4 4-Mar Drying (100° C) 5 4-Mar 4 4-Mar 7 4-Mar 4 3 10 3 4 4-Mar Note: CC= Change in colour,

SC= Staining in cotton, SW= Staining in wool

fixation benefits. Woollen adjacent fabrics displayed lower staining ratings as the protein fibres affinity to natural dye is higher compared to cellulosic fibres. The effect of varying time intervals and fixation methods on wash fastness properties of the nonwovens have been noted in Table 4. Both steamed and dried samples showed marked improvement in colour change values with increase in time to 3 minutes. Negligible change was observed with further increase in temperatures. Colour fastness to light After selection of the pad-dye-dry fixation method for the extract treated sample at 120oC for 3 minutes the samples were tested for light fastness. Reviews of materials dyed with extracts rich in tannins have claimed to have good light fastness properties and stand well against photochemical oxidation [8]. In Table 5. similar results are reflected for 100 GSM and 200 GSM cotton nonwovens. The higher results achieved by 200 GSM fabrics could be attributed to greater penetration and aggregation of dye molecules due to the fibre arrangement and porosity of the fabric. Colour fastness to perspiration The samples of both GSM’s are nearly similar in results on treatment with acidic solution. Results of treatment with alkaline solutions are better for

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Table 5. Assessment of light and perspiration fastness of cotton nonwovens dyed with T. chebula . Perspiration fastness GSM of Conc. Light Acidic solution Alkaline solution (%) sample fastness CC SC SW CC SC SW 20 6 4-Mar 4 4 3 4-Mar 4-Mar 200 30 7 4 5-Apr 5-Apr 3 4-Mar 4-Mar GSM 40 7 4 5-Apr 5-Apr 4-Mar 4 4 20 6 4-Mar 4 4 3 4 4 100 30 6 4 5-Apr 5-Apr 4-Mar 4 4 GSM 40 7 4 5-Apr 4 4-Mar 4 4 Note: CC= Change in colour, SC= Staining in cotton, SW= Staining in wool

100 GSM as compared with 200 GSM cotton nonwovens as noted in Table 5. 3.5. Ultraviolet Protective Factor A very small portion of the solar spectrum is made of UV rays, however they cause severe damage on living organisms such as skin carcinoma, malignant melanomas, accelerated skin ageing, cataract (etc) [9]. The effect of UV transmittance on undyed 200 GSM cotton nonwovens is good as compared to 100 GSM. On application of T.chebula aqueous extract all samples including 100 GSM nonwovens displayed immediate improvement and were found to have excellent readings above 50+. 3.6. Antimicrobial properties T.chebula is a herb with multiple medicinal values. The presence of gallic acid and its ethyl esters, egallic acid, ethanedionic acid and a number of other bioactive compounds have been recorded [10]. The antimicrobial effect against both S. aureus and E.coli was maximum in 200 GSM samples treated with 40% concentration extract. Table 6. The samples showed good results against gram negative bacterial coloTable 6. Effect on antibacterial properties of T.chebula extracts, (30% conc) on cotton nonwovens Bacterial Reduction, (%) Cotton Conc, S. Nonwoven (%) E. coli aureus 20 70.92 77.16 200 GSM 30 75.97 79.05 40 78.91 80.81 20 62.41 72.88 30 68.23 74.07 100 GSM 40 72.05 75.81

nies which is similar to results reported in other studies [11, 12]. This could be because the gram negative bacterium is essentially composed of lippo polysaccharides (LPS) that reduces accumulation of antibacterial agents on the cell membranes. The presence of the above mentioned bioactive compounds in T.chebula prove effective in causing leakage in the cell membrane, thus reduction in the colony forming units, (CFU’s). 4. Conclusion The successful application of aqueous T.chebula extract on cotton nonwoven fabrics by the pad-dye-dry process shows encouraging results. Cotton being the favoured choice of an aware customer can be enriched with the use of the herb to reach its full potential. The enhanced antibacterial properties, excellent Ultraviolet protection, good light and perspiration fastness it offers, is the need of the hour. This would help promote cotton nonwoven fabric treated with plant derived bioactive components as an viable environment friendly option in the field of health and hygiene. References 1.https://www.marketsandmarkets.com/ Market-Reports/non-woven-fabrics-market-101727296.html#:~:text=nonwoven%20 fabrics%20market%3F-,The%20global%20 nonwoven%20fabrics%20market%20size%20 is%20projected%20to%20grow,5.73%25%20 from%202020%20to%202025. 2.Gao, Y., & Cranston R. (2008) Recent Advances in Antimicrobial Treatments of Textiles. Textile Research Journal, 87, 60-72. 3.Morais, D., Guedes, R., & Lopes, M. (2016).

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Antimicrobial Approaches for Textiles: From Research to Market. Materials, 9(6), 498-519. 4.Prabhu, K., & Teli, M. (2014). Eco-dyeing using Tamarindus indica L. seed 225 coat tannin as a natural mordant for textiles with antibacterial activity. Journal of Saudi Chemical Society, 18(6), 864-872. 5.Raja, A., & Thilagavathi, G. (2011). Influence of Enzyme and Mordant Treatments on the Antimicrobial Efficacy of Natural Dyes on Wool Materials. Asian J. of Textile Asian Journal of Textile, 1(3), 138-144. 6.Tsimogiannis, D., Samiotaki, M., Panayotou, G., & Oreopoulou, V. (2007). Characterization of Flavonoid Subgroups and Hydroxy Substitution by HPLC-MS/MS. Molecules,12(3), 593-606. 7.Kanchana, R., Fernandes, A., Bhat, B., Budkule, S., Dessai, S., & Mohan, R. (2013). Dyeing Of Textiles With Natural Dyes - An EcoFriendly Approach. International Journal of ChemTech Research ,5(5), 2102-2109. 8.Prabhu, K., & Bhute, A. S. (2012). Plant based natural dyes and mordnats: A Review. Journal of Natural Product and Plant Resources, 2(6), 649-664. 9.Hussein, I., & Elhassaneen, Y. (2013). Protection of humans from ultraviolet radiation (UVR) through the use of cotton clothes dyed with aqueous extracts of onion skin as the natural colorant. Journal of American Science,9(8), 16-24. 10.Gowd, P. M., Manoj, K. M., Sai, S. A., Sujatha, B., & Sreedevi, E. (2013). Evaluation of three medicinal plants for anti-microbial activity. AYU Journal,33(3), 423-428. 11.Bag, A., Bhattacharyya, S., Bharti, P., Pal, N., & Chattopadhyay, R. (2009). 211 Evaluation of antibacterial properties of Chebulic myrobalan (fruit of Terminalia chebula Retz.) extracts against methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus and trimethoprimsulphamethoxazole resistant uropathogenic Escherichia coli . African Journal of Plant Science,3(2), 025-029. 12.Datta, S., Uddin, M., Afreen, K., Akter, S., & Bandyopadhyay, A. (2013). 214 Assessment of antimicrobial effectiveness of natural dyed fabrics. Bangladesh Journal of Scientific and Industrial Research Bangladesh J. Sci. Ind. Res., 48(3), 179-184.

DYES AND CHEMICALS

THE NATURAL TINGE KINJAL RATE Assisstant Professor, DIDT

Introduction The textile industry is one among the foremost pollutants releasing industries of the planet. Besides, 20 percent of all water pollution is formed by textile treatment and dyeing. Pollutants released by the global textile industry are continuously doing unimaginable harm to the environment. The global textiles industry is working overtime to achieve a balance between economic development and environmental protection. As conservation of water resources and the environment become key issues of concern in textile manufacturing. It is the time that we begin practicing sustainable dyeing (1). Since prehistoric time natural dyes have been employed for colouring of food substrate, leather and fibres like wool, silk, and cotton. The use of nonallergic, non-toxic, and eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles became a matter of serious importance; thanks to the increased environmental awareness to avoid some hazardous synthetic dyes. Indians have been considered as initiators in the art of natural dying. At present, more synthetic compounds are used for dying textile materials. Application of synthetic dyes release large amounts of waste and unfixed colour. It causes health hazards, pollution and disturb eco–balance. They cause water pollution as well as waste disposal problems because these are non-biodegradable and carcinogenic. These problems are often solved by the utilization of natural dye. As there are huge applications of natural dye on textiles, it is clamorous to promote technology for extraction (2).

Natural dyes are good, biodegradable, non-toxic, non-allergic to skin, non carcinogenic, easily available and renewable. So now a days trend of using natural colours is drawing production. Innovative techniques in natural dye application Hybrid pigments Eco foot has developed hybrid pigments composed of a dye chemically linked to a polymer particle that reacts with cellulose fibres at temperatures as low as 25ºC. This technology does not require the utilization of salt, which otherwise is crucial to drive the dye into the material. This technology is often applied for dyeing cotton garments at low temperatures and to wool during a more ecological process. Eco foot-Indigo, a hybrid pigment utilized in dyeing denim, avoids using toxic reducing agents that are traditionally utilized in converting indigo pigment to a watersoluble form. Common reducing agents are considered environmentally un-

favourable because the sulphite and sulphate generated within the dyebath can cause various problems, when discharged into the wastewater. Eco foot also developed auxiliaries to stop hydrolysis of the dye within the dyeing process, which usually requires harsh washing-off procedures to get rid of the hydrolysed dye. Together with hybrid pigments and auxiliaries, quite 50 percent of water within the intermediate and final rinses are often saved within the total process of preparation and dyeing. Powder dyes from textile fibres Officina+39, an Italy based company, developed the sustainable dye range Recycrom, using recycled clothing, fibre material, and textile scraps. It developed a sophisticated eight-step system (patent pending) in which all the fabric fibres are crystalized into an extremely fine powder that can be used as a pigment dye for fabrics and garments made from cotton, wool, ny-

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DYES AND CHEMICALS

lon, or any natural fibre. Recycrom are often applied to the fabrics using various methods like exhaustion dyeing, dipping, spraying, screen printing, and coating. Recycrom is applied as a suspension while most dyes are used as a chemical solution and hence are often easily filtered from water, thus reducing the environmental impact. Cotton pre-treatment Cotton requires about 200 litres of water to produce 1kg of fabric. Dow has developed a pre-treatment process called ECOFAST Pure that is applied before the dyeing process to supply cationic cotton. The pre-treated cotton acquires a permanent charge, enabling it to possess a better affinity for charged molecules like dyes. This patented technology decreases the utilization of dye and water by 50 percent for cotton dyeing. ColorZen has innovated a technology for pre-treatment of raw cotton fibres employing a solution comprising a wetter, sodium hydroxide, and an ammonium salt. This pre-treated cotton exhibits increased ability to retain the dye without the necessity of fixation chemicals, thus reducing the usage of toxic chemicals by 95 percent and water wastage by 90 percent. Natural or engineered microorganisms Colori fix employs an artificial biological approach by using bacteria to paint the textiles, which may reduce the utilization of water by up to 10 times. The innovative steps during this process are to repair the dye-producing bacteria directly onto the material employing a carbon source solution, followed by deposition and fixation of the dye onto fabrics with one heating cycle by the lysis of the microorganisms. This technology does not require a dye extraction process, which uses organic solvents, or fixing and reducing agents containing organic compounds. Researchers at the University of California are developing denim dyes using genetically modified E. coli bacteria to supply indicant, which may then become indigo by an enzymatic treatment. This new process removes the necessity for harsh chemical reducing agents for indigo dye solubilization, replacing it with an enzyme. However,

the method still needs optimization within the recovery of indicants for its sustainability (3). Health concerns The acute toxicity to textile dyes is caused by oral ingestion and inhalation, especially by exposure to dust, triggering irritations to the skin and eyes. The workers who produce or handle reactive dyes may have dermatitis, allergic conjunctivitis, rhinitis, occupational asthma, or other allergies. The latter are the results of the formation of a conjugate between human albumin and therefore the reactive dye, which acts as an antigen producing immunoglobulin E (IgE) antibodies, which combine with histamine the genotoxicity of textile dyes is the greatest potential long-term hazard to human health. Demonstrating, for example, the strong genotoxic effects of textile dyes, point to the existence of studies made in Allium cepa root cells exhibiting chromosomal aberrations. Some dyes reveal mutagenic potentiality. One of them is Azure-B, widely used in the textile industry, which can intercalate with the helical structure of DNA and duplex RNA, as it can be partitioned to the lipid membrane of the cells. It is noteworthy that this dye can reveal cytotoxic effects by acting as a notable reversible inhibitor of monoamine oxidase A (MAO-A), according to in vitro tests, which is an intracellular enzyme of the nervous system central that plays an important role in human behaviour. Its potential for enzyme inhibition also concerns glutathione reductase which plays an essential role in cellular redox homeostasis. The Disperse Red 1 dye is additionally employed by the textile industry and exhibits mutagenic potential. When used in vitro in human lymphocyte and human hepatoma (HepG2) cells, hepatocyte imitative cells in vivo, it can increase the frequency of micronuclei, which are indicative of mutagenic activity at the chromosome level. The assays performed on Salmonella spp. suggests that it is responsible for the formation of DNA adducts which, in the case of humans, constitute a mutagenic event that is key to the characterization of cancer. In its turn, the

APRIL 2021

Disperse Orange 1 dye exhibits similar mutagenic behaviour inducing DNA damage, found in the Salmonella spp. assays, involving nucleotide substitution and frameshift mutations that alter the reading frame. In addition, it has a cytotoxic effect, with apoptosis, in contact with HepG2 cells. The carcinogenesis comprises multiple stages favoured initially by mutagenic factors. The textile dyes may offer carcinogenicity, especially those of the azo and nitro type, and its effects manifest themselves over time (4). Eco-friendly alternative to synthetic dyes Genetic engineering of fungi has created a completely unique method which will enable efficient production of blue pigment using inexpensive, sustainable carbon sources, than the currently used process that needs toxic chemicals, according to Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. The pigment, called indigo dine, features a similar saturated hue as synthetic indigo — a dye used round the world, to colour denim and other items. “Originally extracted from plants, most indigo used today is synthesised,” said lead researcher Aindrila Mukhopadhyay, who directs the Host Engineering team at the US Department of Energy’s Joint Bioenergy Institute (JEBI). “These processes are efficient and cheap, but they often require toxic chemicals and generate tons of dangerous waste,” Mukhopadhyay said. The team engineered the fungi specie Rhodosporidium toruloides (R. toruloides) to supply the blue pigment indigo dine — that has potential industrial applications including use as pharmaceuticals, polymers, and dyes. They used various low-cost carbon and nitrogen sources rather than the currently used chemical synthesis, which may involve toxic precursors and generate hazardous by-products. Besides sustainable production of indigo dines, the results showed an average titre (concentration of a solution) of 86 grams of indigo dine per litre of bioreactor culture — the highest ever reported, the report noted. In contrast, other methods that used considerably costlier inputs could make only about

DYES AND CHEMICALS one-tenth the quantity of indigo dine (5). Natural dyes from food industry waste The food and beverage industry releases considerable amounts of wastes which contain natural dyes. Such wastes could function a source for the extraction of natural dyes for textile‐ dyeing operations. The extraction of brilliant yellow and red colours from fruits and vegetables is of particular interest. Wastes, e.g., pressed berries, pressed grapes, distillation residues from strong liquor production, and wastes and peels from vegetable processing, are extracted with boiling water and test dyeing on wool yarn were performed. Colour strength, shade and fastness properties of the dyeing have been tested. The extracts were applied as direct dyes and within the presence of iron (II) or alum mordants. The results prove the potential of such wastes as a source for natural dyestuff extraction. To obtain textile dyeing with acceptable fastness properties, however, rigorous selection of dyes and development of suited processes is required. A considerable number of red natural dyes need further research to optimise

the low level of fastness to light (6).

into-environment-by-textile-industry •

Natural dyes and its applications: A brief review Shivani Verma and Gunjan Gupta, Volume 4, Issue 4 (Oct-Dec 2017) http://ijrar.com/

•

https://www.prescouter.com/2018/11/ sustainable-dyeing-innovations-greenerways-color-textiles/#:~:text=Hybrid%20 pigments%3A,temperatures%20 a s % 2 0 l o w % 2 0 a s % 2 0 25%C2%BAC.&text=This%20technology%20can%20be%20applied,in%20a%20 more%20ecological%20process.

•

https://www.downtoearth.org.in/news/ science-technology/engineering-this-fungi-may-produce-eco-friendly-alternativeto-synthetic-dyes-65229

By 2025, two-thirds of the world’s population may face water shortages. But Natural Dyes Already reduces massive amount of water consumption and organic cotton is 80% rain-fed, which reduces pressure on local water sources. The absence of chemicals also means water is cleaner and safer (7).

•

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452072119300413

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http://fabrikolor.com/natural-dyeing.html

•

https://www.downtoearth.org.in/news/ science-technology/engineering-this-fungi-may-produce-eco-friendly-alternativeto-synthetic-dyes-65229

References

•

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/ abs/10.1002/jsfa.2360

•

http://fabrikolor.com/natural-dyeing.html

Amalgamation of Organic cotton with Natural Dyes Organic cotton is cotton that is produced and authorized to organic agricultural standards. Its production sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and other people by using natural processes instead of artificial inputs. Importantly organic cotton farming does not allow the utilization of toxic chemicals or GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Instead, it combines tradition, innovation and science to profit the shared environment and promote an honest quality of life for all involved. Eco safety

•

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industryarticle/6262/various-pollutants-released-

EVENT UPDATE

Textile Sector has immense opportunity in India; Experts from Taiwan addressed in a webinar organized by TAITRA India, 29th April, 2021: In order to familiarize Indian enterprises with the latest developments of Taiwanese textile machinery, a webinar was held on April 29th, 2021. The webinar was organized by the Bureau of Foreign Trade (BOFT), MOEA, Taiwan, (R.O.C.) and the Taiwan External Trade Development Council (TAITRA). Taiwan’s textile machinery industry enjoys a sterling global reputation because of its ability to deliver outstanding products. With its emphasis on high quality and reliable service, the industry excels at providing flexible

technologies systems.

and

textile-integrated

Taiwan is the sixth largest textile exporter globally. Taiwan accounts for 70% of the world’s output of functional fabrics. The export value of Taiwan’s textile machinery was more than US $450 million in 2020. The representatives from four leading Taiwanese textile machinery companies, namely: LOGIC ART AUTOMATION, PAILUNG MACHINERY MILL, ACME MACHINERY INDUSTR, and HSING CHENG MACHINERY, presented their latest solutions and tech-

nologies. Also they said the textile industry has always brought opportunities in India and they emphasized the possible association between Indian and Taiwan companies. The event attracted over 275 viewers. The webinar offered the ways of various smart manufacturing solutions of textile industry which will lead to the advancement in manufacturing capabilities, cross-industry collaboration. Also the speakers explained the issues and solutions in areas such as Weaving, Spinning, Dyeing and Finishing and among others.

APRIL 2021

EVENT UPDATE continues to commission the TAITRA for various critical government projects related to business, trade, and investment, while promoting Taiwan internationally. About the Taiwan External Trade Development Council (TAITRA):

The following speakers in Table no. 1 from Taiwan addressed in the webinar on the relevant topics: Taiwan’s textile industry becomes the most preferred partner for major international brands nowadays. The exchange of ideas and sharing of best practices in this webinar created new avenues for collaboration between the textile companies of Indian and Taiwan. About Taiwan Excellence: The Taiwan Excellence Award, jointly created by The Bureau of Foreign Trade (BOFT) and the Taiwan External Trade Development Council (TAITRA) in 1992, aims to cultivate Taiwanese companies. Today, the Taiwan Excellence Award is the highest accolade Taiwanese products can receive. The symbol of Taiwan Excellence embodies Taiwan’s rise to the global ranks of quality manufacturers in terms of innovation, design and manufacturing, and represents the gold standard for Taiwanese products to compete on the global stage.

The Bureau of Foreign Trade (BOFT) within the Ministry of Economic Affairs (MOEA), R.O.C. is responsible for implementing policies and regulations governing foreign trade and economic cooperation. Established in January 1969, the BOFT's role and position have continuously evolved to meet the needs of the ever-changing international economic and trade environments. The BOFT has been guiding and working with the Taiwan External Trade Development Council (TAITRA) in numerous promotional trade projects and activities both domestically and internationally. Having worked closely with the TAITRA for many decades, the BOFT

Founded in 1970 to promote foreign trade, the Taiwan External Trade Development Council (TAITRA) is the foremost non-profit, semi-governmental trade promotion organization in Taiwan. Jointly sponsored by the government, industry associations, and several commercial organizations, the TAITRA assists Taiwanese businesses and manufacturers in reinforcing their international competitiveness and addressing the challenges they face in foreign markets. The TAITRA boasts a well-coordinated trade promotion and information network of over 1,200 international marketing specialists stationed in its Taipei headquarters and 50 overseas offices worldwide. Together with its sister organizations, the Taiwan Trade Center (TTC) and the Taipei World Trade Center (TWTC), the TAITRA has created a wealth of trade opportunities through effective promotion strategies.

About the Bureau of Foreign Trade (BOFT), MOEA:

NEWS

IVORY COAST COTTON TRADES SLIDE

ABIDJAN: Ivory Coast traded 83,776 tons of cotton from January to March, down over 1% over a similar period a year ago, temporary port information appeared on Tuesday.

The principal port of Abidjan is likewise the essential mark of fare for cotton delivered in Ivory Coast's landlocked neighbors Mali and Burkina Faso. Ivory Coast traded 5,756 tons of es-

APRIL 2021

presso beans from January to March, down about 63% from a similar period a year ago, temporary port information appeared on Tuesday.

CAREER GUIDANCE

CAREER SCOPE IN TEXTILE ENGINEERING Sathish Veeraraghavan Career Expert, GetMyUni

Textile engineering is the science that uses the principles of engineering with specific knowledge of textile equipment and process in the textile manufacturing industry. The course curriculum also draws knowledge from other engineering disciplines like mechanical, electrical and industrial, and chemical engineering which helps in textile manufacturing. It also involves the study of physical and chemical principles in polymer manufacturing. The textile industry basically manufactures textiles (both natural and synthetic) along with production machinery. Textile engineering teaches the candidates about the new technologies that can be applied in the manufacturing industry for better products in both quality and quantity-wise. Major areas where textile engineering graduates can work are: ● Research and Development ● Manufacturing ● Merchandising ● Designing Plants ● Energy Conservation and ● Waste Management India is one of the top cotton-producing countries in the world. We are rich in cotton and silk farming. The textile industry in India is one of the largest industries in the world and it’s expanding every year. This industry plays a major role in the economy of the country. The major sectors in the industry are Handloom and Mechanised. Textile Engineering Programs In India, various Top Engineering Col-

leges In India offer Textile Engineering at Diploma, UG, PG, and Ph.D levels. Diploma Course: The Diploma course has a duration of 3 years. To be eligible, the candidate must have a 10+2 with PCM with the required aggregate. Specializations offered are: ● Diploma in Textile Technology / Textile Engineering ● Diploma in Fabrication Technology & Erection Engineering Undergraduate Course: The UG course, Bachelor of Textile Engineering is basically a B.Tech program in Textile Engineering. Just like other B.Tech courses, this program also has a duration of 4 years. For the UG course, the candidate must have a 10+2 degree in Physics, Chemistry, and Maths or Biology. The candidate must also appear for the entrance test, required for the College/Institute they wish to enroll in. After the UG course, candidates can start a professional career, or they can continue to study by joining PG or Ph.D programs.

NIRFRank 2 18 49 52 71 82 98 104 116 118

Post-graduate Course: For the PG program, which is basically the Master of Technology (M.Tech) in Textile Engineering, the candidate must have a Bachelor’s degree (B.Tech) in Textile Engineering. Depending on the College, the candidate must have appeared in the required entrance test. The specializations offered under M.Tech are: ● Master of Technology in Textile Technology ● Master of Technology in Textile Engineering ● Master of Technology in Textile Chemistry Candidates with a PG degree (M.Tech) are eligible for Ph.D. courses in textile engineering. Colleges Offering Textile Engineering Courses have been mentioned in the above table. Top Engineering Colleges in India that offer programs in Ttextile Engineering are: Career and Salary

Name Indian Institute of Technology Delhi Institute of Chemical Technology P.S.G College of Technology Dr. B.R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute Kumaraguru College of Technology Bannari Amman Institute of Technology I.K. Gujral Punjab Technical University Maharaja Sayajiroa University of Baroda Vignan’s Foundation for Science, Technology and Research

City New Delhi Mumbai Coimbatore Jalandhar Mumbai Coimbatore Sathyamangalam Jalandhar Vadodara Guntur

NIRF Score State 88.08 Delhi Maharashtra 58.7 Tamil Nadu 47.21 46.45 Punjab Maharashtra 40.58 Tamil Nadu 39.24 Tamil Nadu Punjab 36.54 Gujarat Andhra Pradesh 36.28

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CAREER GUIDANCE

Candidates graduating from the Top Engineering Colleges In India find excellent job opportunities in different industrial sectors, R&D, Incubation Centres. There are numerous textile industries in India and various MNC’s

are expanding their reach in India. This is a huge opportunity for the candidates who are choose Textile Engineering as their career. Fresh graduates from top engineering

colleges can receive a starting salary of INR 30,000 to INR 40,000 per month. Candidates can get an increment based on experience and skills. Textile Engineers with 2-3 years of experience can earn a salary of 6 LPA.

NEWS

FIBERTEX TO EXTEND EUROPEAN TASKS AALBORG - Fibertex Nonwovens has reported the second phase of its development plan with a venture of DKK 300 million in the organization's plants in the Czech Republic and Turkey.

like sanitizer wipes. Fibertex Nonwovens capacity to deliver particular items with special properties at generally low expenses is progressively perceived on the lookout.

The venture was incited by expanded worldwide interest for the organization's cutting edge and reasonable claim to fame items.

Fibertex Nonwovens is progressively utilizing spunlace innovation, which sees high velocity planes of water used to catch the filaments of the nonwoven materials. Fibertex Nonwovens has long periods of positive involvement in this specific innovation, and the a lot of the venture will be spent on another spunlace creation line at the organization's plant in Svitavy in the eastern Czech Republic.

In March 2021, Fibertex Nonwovens, an auxiliary of the Danish mechanical combination Schouw and Co. in Aarhus, Denmark, reported a speculation of simply over DKK 300 million in a limit development of one of the organization's two plants in the USA. Fibertex Nonwovens is presently putting a similar sum in Europe with a limit development of the organization's current plants in the Czech Republic and Turkey. Jørgen Bech Madsen, CEO of Fibertex Nonwovens said that interest for the organization's nonwovens had expanded altogether lately. "It concerns especially the more specific applications and superior materials for the medical services area, modern items, expert acoustic items for the auto business, nanofiltration for mechanical purposes," he said. "Our business advancement and exploration exercises in the course of recent years have managed the cost of us a main situation in both Europe and the USA, and this is the immediate justification the complete speculation of simply over DKK 600 million in limit developments." Madsen additionally noticed that the Covid pandemic had prompted an unstable interest for cleanliness items,

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"We have a lean and cutting edge creation arrangement with clear spotlight on advancement, and the new creation line is to serve the tremendous interest for sterilization wipes from the medical care area," Madsen added. "This interest was rising even before the Covid pandemic, yet we anticipate that it should increment significantly further in the coming years. With this new venture, we'll have the option to offer new and supportable item properties that will help satisfy the needs of things to come in this field. Simultaneously, we're opening up limit at a few of our other European plants, permitting us to investigate new freedoms inside the assembling of acoustic items for the auto business and items for filtration." In 2015, Fibertex Nonwovens gained the nonwovens tasks of the Turkish producer Ribatek. The plant is situated in the city of Cerkezkoy in western Turkey, almost 100 kilometers northwest of Istanbul, and it works in spunlacing.

Here, Fibertex Nonwovens is presently putting resources into an extension of the current creation offices just as adding extra lines in completing and covering with the end goal of assembling specific nonwovens items. "The plant in Turkey supplements the creation units of our other European and US plants by assembling innovative items. For instance, we're encountering developing interest for different types of completing, which permit us to add totally remarkable properties to the items." said Madsen. The interests in Europe and the USA adding up to DKK 600 million structure part of a yearning development methodology for the period to 2026. Fibertex Nonwovens produced income of DKK 1.8 billion of every 2020 and is required to build the top line to around DKK 2.5 billion over the course of the following five years. "It's essential that we exploit the current energy to reinforce our position. There's an 'open window' for extension and we have the assets to make the most of the chances," added Jens Bjerg Sørensen, president and CEO of Schouw and Co. "Fibertex Nonwovens has colossal potential and with the new interests in both the USA and Europe, it can altogether expand its income and profit. It's essentially a superb business case." The interest in the Czech Republic and Turkey won't influence income and benefit assumptions for the current monetary year, the organization said.

HR FOCUS

SELF-AWARENESS: THE FIRST STEP IN BECOMING AN EFFECTIVE LEADER Rajiv Misra R Square Consulting

“The easiest person to deceive is one’s own self.” -Edward George Bulwer-Lytton The Disowned When I was a child, I used to look forward to the summer vacations; when I would go and stay with my grandmother. In addition to being spoilt by my uncles and aunts, the highlight of those 20 days used to be the evenings, when lying down on light mattresses on the roof under the open sky, my grandmother would tell us stories. The long evenings would stretch pleasantly as I would be transported to the world of kings and queens through those stories. More than 50 years have passed since I lay down in my grandmother’s lap to listen to those stories. However, what I remember vividly was the fact that every King had a Court Jester. The most interesting stories would be about a complex situation faced by the King and the Court Jester providing an innovative solution which made me laugh, as well as learn a lesson. The Court Jester fulfilled an important role of providing critical and valid feedback to the King and help him become more self-aware. The Jester provided that feedback without any fear, with a clear understanding that this feedback will be taken positively by the Jing and no harm will come to the Jester. As the CEO / MD / Owner or senior leader do you have a court jester in your team?

If not, you, may be missing out on the critical feedback which would help you become a more effective leader. Self-awareness is one of the five facets of emotional intelligence with the others being Self-Regulation, Social Skills, Motivation and Empathy. Self Awareness as it is the foundation of emotional intelligence and we should start with attempting to become as self-aware as possible. As per Daniel Goleman, the author of the famous book “Emotional Intelligence”, Self-Awareness is the ability to understand your own emotions and their effects on your performance. Being Self Aware helps you understand what you are feeling, why you are feeling so and also provides you a reasonably accurate understanding of how others experience you. It also helps you in identifying the triggers which upset you or make you angry. Once you are aware of what is happening you can take steps to control or manage your emotions which is Selfregulation. There a number of ways in which you can become self-aware. From understanding your trigger points; about what bothers you about some people, to writing down the sequence of events

of an incidence, when you lost control. But the one which I found to be most effective is of seeking and accepting feedback. There is a very famous saying which say that “Feedback is the breakfast of champions”. Why is feedback considered so important in the development of an effective leader? Authentic feedback provides you with a very clear indication of how you see yourself and how others perceive you thereby increasing self-awareness. This difference in opinion provides you with objective data, on which you can work on, to close the gap between how you see yourself and how others see you. This feedback could be in terms of your reaction to a crisis, your behaviour with a team member or customer or how you came across as aggressive, when you thought you were being assertive. So, taking a cue from the Kings of yore, develop or empower your own version of the Court Jester in your team. Someone who can tell you how things are rather than what you want to hear. Improving self-awareness is the first step in becoming an emotionally intelligent and effective leader.

APRIL 2021

YARN REPORT

YARN EXPORT UP 79PC IN MARCH, COTTON TAKES LEAD NITIN MADKAIKAR Total merchandise exports in March 2021 were US$ 34.00 billion as compared to US$21.49 billion in March 2020, a surge of 58%. However, the surge was on a very low base, when exports in February began suffering from the COVID-19 pandemic and China had shut down to combat coronavirus spread. Export in March 2020 had declined sharply by 35% year on year. Cumulative exports during April-March 2020-21 were at US$ 290.18 billion, as compared to US$313.36 billion during the same period of last year, down 7.4%.

followed by Bangladesh, Vietnam and Portugal.

Basic textiles export comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment more than doubled in March 2021 in terms of US$ worth US$1,023 million or INR7,358 crore, accounting for about 3% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. The increase was mainly driven by sharp increase in cotton exports during the month. On a cumulative basis, exports were just 15% up in the financial year 2020-21, from 2019-20. Exports in April and May will also see sharp surges, mainly due to low base. Spun yarn's shipment totaled 134 million kg worth US$442 million (up 79% YoY) or INR3,180 crore (up 78%) in March 2021. Compared to February 2021 (a shorter calendar month), they were up 26% both in US$ in INR terms. Bangladesh reemerged as the largest importer in spun yarns, with value rising 54% year on year, followed by China (up 239%). These two markets accounted for about 46% to total yarn shipped during the month. Cotton yarn export volume was at 103 million kg worth US$355 million (INR2,554 crore). These were shipped to 72 countries at an average price of US$3.45 a kg, up US cents 15 from the previous month and US cents 51 from a year ago. China remained as the top cotton yarn market,

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100% man-made fibre yarns exports were at over 10 million kg during March, comprising 4.2 million kg of polyester yarn, 3.7 million kg of viscose yarn and 2.1 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn export was worth US$9.6 million (INR69 crore) at an average price of US$2.29 per kg. Brazil was the largest market fol-lowed by Turkey and the USA. Viscose spun yarn export was worth US$12 million and was exported at an av-erage unit price of US$3.32 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of viscose yarn, followed by Bangladesh and Belgium. Blended spun yarns worth US$58 million were shipped in March, including 26 million kg of PC yarns and 4.4 million kg of PV yarns. Egypt was the largest importer of PC yarn from India followed by Bangladesh while Turkey was the largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Brazil. All kinds of filament yarn shipment stood at 60 million kg, valued at US$108 million or INR777 crore. Although all types of filaments recorded positive year on year increases in March, nylon and viscose filament exports were the slowest to rise. Polyester filament export value was up29% while PP filaments export rose 82% in value terms. Viscose filament export too increased 44% in March, which were sluggish over the past one year. All kinds of man made staple fibres shipment totaled 38 million kg, valued at US$44 million or INR319 crore. Polyester staple fibre exports were up 25-30% both in volume and US$ terms. The per unit realization inched up US cents 5 year on year to US$1.00 a kg or INR72 a kg. Viscose fibre export continued to re-bound, rising 80% in volume and 96% in US$ with price realisation averaging up 8%.

FIBRE REPORT

FIBRE PRICES EASE IN APRIL, BUT SHOWED SIGNS OF STABILISING NITIN MADKAIKAR Man Made fibre prices eased across textile value chains, giving back most of the gains seen from post Lunar New Year holidays until end of March. Polyester Polyester staple fibre prices were down 3-4% in China as upstream cost was flat to down while downstream demand was moderate. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers and discussions for firm deals rested below March values. Trading prices were at around offer, indicating a low discount. The sale/ production ratio was modest, ranging from 30-200%. Offers for 1.4D directmelt PSF averaged 6.80-6.91 Yuan a kg (US$1.04-1.06 a kg, down US cents 1-4) in Jiangsu and Zhejiang while the same in Fujian and Shandong were down US cents 4-5 at US$1.05-1.08 a kg. In Taiwan, offers for 1.4D were raised US cents 10 to US$1.15 a kg FOB. In Pakistan, producers kept reducing their offers week on week in April and were down 3% compared to March values. 1.4D PSF offers were cut by PakRs15 or US cents 4 to PakRs.205-207 a kg (US$1.31-1.32 a kg). In India, producers' offers were also lowered as demand weakened significantly due to lockdown to contain pandemic spread. Local plants were reportedly running at around 60-70% capacity during the last two weeks of April, down from an average of 90% in end March. Offers were down INR7 to INR96.75 a kg (US$1.31 a kg) for 1.2D and at INR96 a kg (US$1.30 a kg) for 1.4D. Nylon In China, nylon staple fibre offers were down over 4% in China during April

in comparison with March average. Downstream makers lowered that operation amid rigid end-use demand. Overall, nylon yarn sentiment was expected to hold stable. 1.5D offers were down to 15.12-16.00 Yuan a kg (US$2.32-2.46 a kg, down US cents 6).

as prices dropped to a bottom. Fibre producers reported some improvement in fresh orders in late April. Prices for medium-length and cotton-type acrylic fibre 1.5D and 3D tow were kept steady at 19.30-20.00 Yuan a kg (US$2.973.07 a kg).

Acrylic

In Pakistan, overseas suppliers raised their offers in Karachi market back to late March levels in the last week of April. 1.2D ASF offers from overseas suppliers were lifted PakRs100 or US cents 66 to PakRs.450-455 a kg (US$2.94-2.97 a kg) in Karachi market.

Acrylic staple fibre prices stood stable at a low position in April in China, India, and Pakistan this April. Producers had limited room to adjust prices at the moment as feedstock acrylonitrile markets showed weakening signs in recent weeks, and some lower numbers were also heard being quoted. Taiwan origin offers for 1.5D acrylic fibre were rolled over on the week at US$2.95-3.10 a kg FOB Taiwan. In China, the industrial run rate was reduced to 25% this week as major producers had shut down units for maintenance while others kept on running at reduced rates. Downstream buyers were more actively buying acrylic fibre

Indian producers pegged their offers for April at INR248-250 a kg (US$3.353.37 a kg). Going ahead, acrylic fibre producers are unlikely to lower prices due to still high production costs. Viscose The Viscose staple fibre market in China was quiet with offers plunged in April although some stability was

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FIBRE REPORT

seen later. Traders had largely taken over the business while producers maintained or reduced their offers for medium-end and high-end goods. Liquidity at high-end producers was reported to be slow. In spot, selling prices for medium-end and high-end from traders were pegged lower than producers’ offers. Overall, markets remained stalemated going into May day holidays, while inventory at producers

will pile up. On spot, average prices were rolled back for 1.5D to 14.58 Yuan a kg (US$2.24 a kg, down US cents 14 from March) and 1.2D to 15.17 Yuan a kg (US$2.33 a kg, down US cents 8). In Taiwan, viscose fibre prices were raised in the last week of the month due to shortage of pulp. Offers for 1.5D were hiked US cents 5 to US$2.10 a kg FOB.

In Pakistan, offers from overseas suppliers were lowered for four weeks in a row as demand seems to be lackadaisical amid sluggish cotton markets. Offers for 1.5D VSF in Karachi were down to average PakRs360-365 a kg (US$2.35-2.40 a kg). In India, no change was reported in viscose fibre prices amid lockdown imposed to contain COVID-19 spread.

NEWS

Cone Denim to Produce Nearly 3 Million Pounds of Organic Cotton Cone Denim revealed that it is on track to convey right around 3 million pounds of insisted Organic Content Standard (OCS) cotton in the making of its common denim arrangement before the completion of 2021. The OCS is an around the world, purposeful standard that sets necessities for untouchable affirmation of insisted common data and chain of power. "Cone Denim seemed the essential Organic Cotton Capsule Collection more than 10 years earlier as a segment of our all-encompassing Sustainblue combination of denim surfaces, and we continue driving the usage of characteristic and other possible strands across our overall stage," Steve Maggard, head of Cone Denim, said. "We are thinking about it gigantic to be in common cotton as we continue progressing toward consolidating more sensible parts into Cone's most genuine denims. Straightforwardness and perceptibility are critical, and we are centered around giving our customers added assurance of the realness and trustworthiness of Cone's regular denim surfaces." Maggard said supplies of affirmed characteristic cotton are limited, given the serious standards and extended interest. So Cone Denim has worked strongly with suppliers to get addition-

al stock. "Limited stock is as of now open across Cone's overall stage, with more noticeable availability out of our China industrial facility," he said. All Cone Denim plants are OCS affirmed to make normal yarns and denim surfaces. Cone's guaranteed Organic Cotton surfaces are made using normally created cotton without pesticides, herbicides and designed fertilizers. Regular cotton is created using procedures and materials that are affirmed to characteristic green standards and humble influence the environment, supporting the prosperity of soils, natural frameworks and people by using normal cycles rather than counterfeit information sources.

APRIL 2021

Just as being OCS avowed, Cone participates in the Better Cotton Initiative, U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, Cotton Leads, and is the essential overall denim maker to offer Oritain development to deductively check the beginning stages of cotton. Cone Denim offers a wide extent of practical progressions and eco-obliging denim surfaces across a layered commitment, going from 15% to 100% normal cotton to help particular monetary necessities. Cone Denim fills in as a part of Elevate Textiles Inc. with collecting capacities in Mexico and China, and an overall association of arrangements, thing and advertising specialists based out of Greensboro, N.C.; New York, San Francisco and Hong Kong.

MARKET REPORT

AN OVERVIEW OF MITUMBA MARKET IN KENYA BETWEEN 2016-20

KSHIPRA GADEY Textile Value Chain Abstract Most of those clothes are in fact donations from the US and Europe. More than 70% of all repurposed clothing in the UK is exported and sold. Approximately two million Kenyans work in the Mitumba market. Since the second-hand clothing industry and the formal textile industry are two distinct industries, players in those markets are not inherently competitors. In Kenya, these secondhand clothes are the lifeblood of every household. They have no class and are worn by almost all. Kenya not only imports used clothing for personal use, but also exports it to neighboring countries. Mitumba is not just a clothing culture in Kenya but it is a major source of income for numerous households there. Kenya imported the highest amount of secondhand clothing neither from the USA nor Europe but from China between 2016-2020. As a result of its contribution to jobs and as a source of government revenue, the sector is critical to Kenya's economy. The covid 19 pandemic has impacted Mitumba markets throughout the nation. Introduction Kenya is an East African country that is the 29th most populated nation in the world. Kenyans have a special affinity for secondhand clothing. This culture of secondhand clothing is known as Mitumba or Mtumba. Mitumba literally translates to "bundles" in Swahili. Mitumba refers to second-hand clothing in Kenyan slang, with Gikomba being the most well-known marketplace. Kenyans are huge fans of secondhand clothing for a variety of reasons. For starters, they are one of the most cost-effective pieces of clothing. For as little as 20 shillings, or even 10 shillings, one may put on a pleasant piece of cloth. Two, they are long-lasting. Secondhand clothing outlasts new clothing, which is a reality that

RADHIKA BODDU Textile Value Chain scientists will have to address in the future. Because of its use and export to other countries, Kenya is one of the largest importers of second-hand clothing in Sub-Saharan Africa, according to the report. In six years, the nominal value of secondhand clothing imports into Kenya has increased by 80%, from 10 billion shillings to 18 billion shillings. Most households, according to a household analysis, buy new clothes when they are needed, such as for school or workplace uniforms. 91.5 percent of households purchase secondhand clothing worth less than 1000 shillings, while 8.5 percent purchase second hand clothing worth more than 1000 shillings. 74.5 percent of all households purchased new clothing for less than 1000 shillings, while 25.5 percent purchased new clothing for more than 1000 shillings, demonstrating the price sensitivity of second-hand clothing. People in countries such as the United Kingdom donate their old clothes to charity. People mistakenly assume that their contributions will be donated to those in need or sold in High Street charity shops to raise money, not realizing that their donations will be sold for profit in other countries. Kenya is without a doubt one of the main importers of used clothing in Sub-Saharan Africa. It also majorly contributes to generating a lot of revenue for the nation as well as helps in swelling per capita income. Study of Kenya’s import of secondhand clothing between 2016-2020 Kenya is the world's largest importer of secondhand clothing. Figure 1 shows top 10 nations from where secondhand clothing was imported. Kenya imported 231,531 tons of secondhand clothes from China alone. This number was more than one third of the total import in the total span of 4 years and 3 months. India ranks 9th in this list with

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MARKET REPORT This statistic belongs to the same year, when secondhand clothing import was under the discussion for suspension. Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania, and Uganda make East Africa Community (EAC). EAC had proposed a ban on import of secondhand clothing to boost local manufacturing, help the economy and prevent the local textile industry from

Source: Trademap

24,471 tons of export of secondhand clothing to Kenya. Pakistan made the list of top 10 suppliers with 74,467 tons of export to Kenya which was more than Canada’s supply that stood in 3rd position with 65,807 tons of supply. UK and USA surprisingly were among the top 10 suppliers with 4th and 5th position, respectively. The total export from the USA and UK combined was less than half export from China. Poland, Germany, and UAE were among other top 10 suppliers to Kenya.

Source: Trademap

The top 10 suppliers had a varied supply between 20162020. China’s supply was more than double in 2018 and 2019 when compared with the supply of 2016. Every country supply in 2020 was low as Kenya had banned import of secondhand clothing since March 2020 due to Covid 19 pandemic. China, Pakistan, Canada, USA, Poland, and Germany’s supply swelled up in 2019 and was highest among 5 years. Canada and Pakistan’s export increased with every passing year. The UK's supply decreased consecutively every passing year. India’s supply was highest in 2019 among all its supply in the 5 years. In 2016, China was the leading supplier of secondhand clothing to Kenya. Its total supply summed up to 29,548 tons in 2016 and its highest supply in the whole year was in the 4th quarter. China was further followed by the UK and Canada with 12,212 and 13,520 tons of supply, respectively. India was 9th largest supplier and Korea was 10th. Korea’s supply of secondhand clothing increased in every quarter of 2016 but fell drastically from 1,490 to 760 tons. Pakistan’s supply was noticeably high in the 4th quarter of 2016 landing it in the fourth position. UAE’s total supply for the same year was just 10 tons more than Germany’s total supply for that year.

APRIL 2021

Source: Trademap

shutting down. The other reason behind the proposal of this ban was hygiene, EAC claimed that importing used clothes is unhealthy and has no sanitary standards. Eventually, this proposal was rejected, and Kenya continued to import secondhand clothing from various countries. In 2017, the import swollen up by 2,947 tons than the previous year. Total import in the year 2017 was 1,32,565 tons from which 40,681 was China’s supply making it the highest supplier for the same year. China’s highest supply was in the fourth quarter for the same year. The growth in total annual import of secondhand clothing was notably less as due to previous year’s EOC’s proposal of ban on secondhand clothing import. EOC had not banned it but the imports curbed

Source: Trademap

for the sake of dignity, development, and hygiene. While the ban was being debated back then, it was concluded that East Africa still was dependent on America for a lot of things and was not in a state to say, ‘We do not need you anymore’. Thus, the idea about the ban was suspended. In the same year, UK’s position on the top suppliers list dropped to 4th and Canada and Pakistan’s rank shifted to 2nd and 3rd respectively with the annual supply of 14,890 and 14,385 tons, respectively. A

MARKET REPORT

constant drop was witnessed in the UK's and USA’s supply in every quarter of the year. India climbed up to 8th position with 5,577 tons of supply in the same year. Unlike previous years, Korea had maintained 10th position in the list. Korea’s supply was 1,187 tons less than UAE’s supply. Germany’s supply summed up to 5,647 tons, with the highest supply in the first quarter of the year. Even Poland’s highest supply was in the first quarter for the same year. 2018, witnessed a rise of 44 thousand tons in the supply which was a lofty change. China was still on the top

Source: Trademap

Impact of Mitumba on local textile industry

Source: Trademap

with the total supply of 74 thousand tons. There was a subsequent growth in China’s supply for the first three quarters which drastically reduced in the last quarter. Pakistan climbed up to 2nd position with the annual supply of 19 thousand tons. India’s supply was 621 tons more than the previous year’s supply. USA and Poland’s supply increased consecutively each after every quarter. China, Canada, UK, India, and Korea’s highest supply were in the third quarter from all the four quarters. According to a study released by the Mitumba Association of Kenya in collaboration with the Institute of Economic Affairs, Kenya imported 185,000 tons of used clothing in 2019. This equated to around 8,000 containers. Import taxes increased to $15,000 per 40-foot container in 2019. (equivalent to 24 tons). In 2019, Kenya imported 185,000 tons of used clothes, which equates to around 8,000 containers. The total amount of taxes collected was 12 billion shillings. The secondhand clothing industry generates at least 1 billion shillings in monthly sales. Traders must also pay business license fees, as well as other taxes to the federal and state governments. Just like every year, China was the leading supplier in 2019 as well. Its highest supply was in the second quarter. China’s Supply summed up to 74,327 tons for the whole year. Pakistan was the second largest supplier with 22,332 tons of supply of secondhand clothing to Kenya. Canada’s supply was worth 16,943 which kept swelling up consecutively till the third quarter and then a substantial reduction was seen in the supply of the fourth quarter. India was 8th in this list with the total supply of 5,737 tons.

Clothing accounts for 2.5 percent of overall private consumption in Kenya, or 197.5 billion shillings. This equates to an average of 4,150 shillings spent per person on all clothing and footwear purchases. The formal textile industry and the mitumba sector are two separate entities. The formal Kenyan textile industry includes yarn and clothing production, as well as research and development, design, manufacturing, and distribution. Mitumba is a business that buys and sells used clothing. As a result, there is a significant price difference between the two brands, with used clothing being considered less expensive. Most households purchase new clothing, such as uniforms, when they have no other choice, according to a household study. Kenyans have not given up on buying new clothes, particularly in the colder months like December. According to the Kenya National Bureau of Statistics, the gross private consumption in the Kenyan economy is 7.9 trillion shillings. Clothing accounts for 2.5 percent of overall private consumption in Kenya, or 197.5 billion shillings. This equates to an average of 4,150 shillings spent per person on all clothing and footwear purchases (both new and secondhand purchases). Mitumba ban in Kenya and its impact During onset of covid 19 pandemic, mitumba was banned in Kenya. This ban had affected all the people who directly and indirectly were employed in mitumba business. Import of secondhand clothing was suspended in end of March 2020 and could resume after mid-August in the same year. According to the import policy of Kenya, mitumba imports are required to be accompanied by a health certificate issued by a public health authority in the country of origin. Consignments must also be packaged in clear transparent materials at a maximum weight of 50kg for clothes and 25kg for shoes. The government has been keen to discourage importation of second-hand clothes in favor of the local textile industry. Mitumba's high quality and relatively low prices, on the other hand, continue to fuel demand for the product, which is favored primarily by the lower and middle classes. The country imported 177,160 tons of mitumba in 2018 valued at about Sh17 billion, according to the Kenya National Bureau of Statistics, up from 135,868 tons in 2017.

APRIL 2021

MARKET REPORT

Imports have however dropped as global supply chains remain affected, amid a trade downtime in the wake of the Covid-19 crisis. Job losses Around 2,000,000 Kenyans are employed directly by the mitumba sector, with many more employed indirectly. Mitumba traders, who import used clothes in bulk and supply to retailers, who then sell the clothes on the market, are among those directly employed by the industry. These individuals hire other Kenyans in the transportation industry to transport the goods, as well as funds to fix or change the clothing before selling it, and others to clean and iron it. It is essentially a long chain of people who have benefited from this industry and have now lost their jobs because of the ban. One must wonder how these people can survive when the economy is on the verge of collapse due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Loss of respectability Mitumba has given the common man dignity by allowing them to afford quality clothing since its introduction in the 1980s. Our parents used to tell us stories of how they went to school without shoes and made it through amid the difficulties as a motivator for us to work hard. According to a conversation I saw on social media, the key reason they did not have shoes was because their parents could not afford a new pair. In other words, a

person who cannot afford to spend Ksh. 1,000 on a new pair of shoes will not be able to afford them if the option of buying a used pair for 300 bob is removed. Most possibly, the person will continue to wear his or her old pair of shoes until they are ripped and worn out. Taxes not paid We are one of the most heavily taxed countries on the planet, which means that you are most likely paying one or more taxes for every purchase you make. The mitumba bales are taxed when they arrive in the country. When the traders go to the market to sell their products, they must pay fees to their respective county governments. Our government is funded by the taxes we pay, and I believe that every shilling goes to the taxman's pocket. As a result, the loss of taxes would have an effect, particularly because the economy has been severely harmed by the Covid-19 pandemic. Degradation of the environment We live in a highly polluted environment that has resulted in global warming, the consequences of which can be seen in the recent changes in weather patterns. As a result, we must do our part to help reduce waste by reusing and recycling products. The purchasing of secondhand clothing and accessories is part of a cycle of reusing products that would otherwise be discarded in a landfill, polluting the atmosphere. So, while doing your part to protect the world, do not let anyone make fun of you.

NEWS

THYSSENKRUPP TO ASSEMBLE A POLYESTER MATERIAL PLANT FOR YÜREK IN TURKEY Thyssenkrupp Industrial Solutions' auxiliary Uhde Inventa-Fischer marked an agreement to construct another world-scale polymer plant for Yürek Polimer A.S.in Bursa, Turkey. The plant is wanted to create 300 metric tons each day (108,000 tons each time) of PET (polyethylene terephthalate) for low consistency applications. The PET liquefy delivered by thyssenkrupp innovation will at that point be changed over into PET Chips, just as pre-situated yarn. Werner Steinauer, CEO of Uhde Inventa-Fischer: "We are pleased that Yürek picked us to construct another

best in class PET plant. Our 2R cycle offers numerous benefits contrasted with ordinary advances, like diminished impression, less CAPEX, enhanced energy utilization and lower creation costs." Alim Yürek, Member of Board of Directors of Yürek Polimer A.ş.: "We picked an all around demonstrated innovation which could be consistently coordinated into the further creation. With this PET venture, the Yürek gathering will turn into an incorporated material gathering." Extent of conveyance will be fundamental and detail designing, the con-

APRIL 2021

veyance of all essential parts just as specialized administrations in regards to Supervision for Erection, Pre-Commissioning and Commissioning. Energy-productive, incorporated low thickness PET plant The plan of the polycondensation plant will be founded on Uhde Inventa-Fischer's restrictive innovation, which for this situation empowers the creation of unrivaled great polyester polymer. A trademark highlight of the plant is that the polymer soften will be passed on straightforwardly from the polycondensation plant to a few downstream lines.

MARKET REPORT

US KNITTED AND WOVEN APPAREL IMPORTS RADHIKA BODDU Textile Value Chain

US is one of the leading importers of apparel goods in the world. The covid-19 pandemic, combined with a damaging trade war with China, made 2020 a watershed year for apparel trade and sourcing in the United States. Owing to the economic fallout from COVID-19 and government stay-at-home orders, most apparel stores in the United States were closed, and importers were either cancelling or slashing orders.

giving it the share of 4.39%. Knitted apparels are a daily requirement and have witnessed consecutive hike in imports every year. There was a drop in this import due to the pandemic, but it is expected to rise eventually while the situation goes back to normal. Unit: US$ Million

Unit: US$ Million

Unit : US$ Million US’s import of Knitted Apparels has always been more than the woven apparel imports. The total import of knitted apparels was worth 48 million USD in 2019 which dramatically fell in 2020 due to the covid-19 pandemic and it was worth 38 million USD. Though the highest import was from China in both the years, China faced a sharp drop in the year 2020 due to the trade war. Import from China was worth 14 million USD in 2019, which lowered to 9 million USD in 2020. This shrink was mainly due to the ban or decrease imposed on imports from China. Despite the lowered exports, China was on the top 10 importers in US with the global share of 24.44% in the export to US. Apart from China, Vietnam also exported a huge quantity of knitted apparels to US which was worth 7 million USD in both the years with 19.38% global share. US imported the knitted apparels worth 2 million USD and 1.5 million USD from India in 2019 and 2020, respectively. India’s share was 4.03% among the global exporters of knitted apparels to US in the year 2019 and 2020. Cambodia’s share was 5.73% with the exports worth 4 and 5 million USD. Apart from the top 10 countries mentioned, the share of rest of the nation’s total export of knitted apparels to US was just 23.74% which was less than China’s total share. Bangladesh’s total export was worth 1.6 million USD in both the years

Exporters China Vietnam Cambodi a Indonesia Banglade sh Honduras India El Salvador Jordan Guatemal a Others Total

HS code 61 - Knit Apparel Imports 2016 15,115 6,472

2017 14,885 6,996

2018 15,387 7,396

2019 14,184 7,963

2020 9,352 7,417

1,631

1,654

1,876

2,119

2,194

2,585

2,458

2,398

2,284

1,952

1,420

1,429

1,533

1,686

1,681

2,189 1,673

2,117 1,735

2,234 1,879

2,480 2,007

1,609 1,544

1,718

1,690

1,718

1,684

1,205

954

1,004

1,082

1,351

1,147

1,135

1,105

1,207

1,187

1,082

10,526 45,418

10,677 45,749

10,988 47,698

11,296 48,241

9,082 38,264

China was also the highest exporter of woven apparels to US in not only 2019 but also in 2020 despite the pandemic. US imported the woven apparels worth 12 million USD and 10 million USD from China in the year 2019 and 2020, respectively. Its total global share was 30.96% for

APRIL 2021

MARKET REPORT Unit : US$ Million

HS code 61 - Knit Apparel Imports

Exporters 2016 China 15,115 Vietnam 6,472 1,631 Cambodia Indonesia 2,585 Bangladesh 1,420 Honduras 2,189 India 1,673 El Salvador 1,718 954 Jordan Guatemala 1,135 10,526 Others Total 45,418

2017 14,885 6,996 1,654 2,458 1,429 2,117 1,735 1,690 1,004 1,105 10,677 45,749

2018 15,387 7,396 1,876 2,398 1,533 2,234 1,879 1,718 1,082 1,207 10,988 47,698

2019 14,184 7,963 2,119 2,284 1,686 2,480 2,007 1,684 1,351 1,187 11,296 48,241

2020 9,352 7,417 2,194 1,952 1,681 1,609 1,544 1,205 1,147 1,082 9,082 38,264

Unit: US$ Million

woven apparel exports to US. Vietnam’s total share was 17.51% with the export worth 5 million USD in both the years each. US imported woven apparels worth 4 million USD and 3 million USD in the year 2019 and 2020, respectively from Bangladesh. Indonesia’s total share was 5.22% with the total export worth 2 million USD and 1 million USD in 2019 and 2020, respectively. India’s export to US was worth 2 million USD and 1 million USD in the year 2019 and 2020, respectively. Mexico’s share was 4.92%. Pakistan’s share was lowest i.e., 1.94% with the export worth 0.6 million USD in both the years to US. Unit: US$ Million

Source: Trademap

APRIL 2021

Unit : US$ Million

HS code 62 Woven Apparel Imports

Exporters 2016 China 14,182 Vietnam 4,574 Bangladesh 3,889 Indonesia 2,317 India 2,149 Mexico 2,215 584 Cambodia Italy 958 903 Sri Lanka Pakistan 539 Others 6,241 38,552 World

2017 13,509 4,854 3,632 2,288 2,140 2,133 578 960 915 596 6,204 37,808

2018 13,441 5,204 3,896 2,278 2,146 2,179 649 1,071 842 609 6,714 39,030

2019 12,213 5,924 4,242 2,283 2,256 2,161 703 1,094 851 630 6,927 39,282

2020 10,193 5,765 3,603 1,717 1,659 1,619 863 782 652 639 5,432 32,923

There were falls in 2019 in the portions of US attire imports which came from El Salvador, Indonesia and Mexico as US apparel imports from these three nations declined yet there were ascends in the portions of US garments imports which came from Bangladesh, Cambodia, Honduras, India, and Vietnam- - reflecting solid development in US imports from each of the six nations. In the initial five months of 2020, Bangladesh represented 9.40 percent of absolute US imports, notwithstanding Covid-19 and the US-China exchange war. The country's solid capacity to create yarn and texture locally without depending on imports notwithstanding work cost added to a critical value advantage for Made in Bangladesh items. A significant number of work orders for piece of clothing things adding up to $3.2 billion have either been dropped, conceded or retained at different seaports as retailers in the US were hesitant to acknowledge conveyances in the midst of the ebb and flow monetary vulnerability, as per the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). Presently, purchasers have requested up to 180 to 210 days to finish their installment. Unit : US$ Million

HS code 62 Woven Apparel Imports

Exporters China Vietnam Banglade sh Indonesia India Mexico Cambodi a Italy Sri Lanka Pakistan Others World

2016 14,182 4,574

2017 13,509 4,854

2018 13,441 5,204

2019 12,213 5,924

2020 10,193 5,765

3,889

3,632

3,896

4,242

3,603

2,317 2,149 2,215

2,288 2,140 2,133

2,278 2,146 2,179

2,283 2,256 2,161

1,717 1,659 1,619

584

578

649

703

863

958 903 539 6,241 38,552

960 915 596 6,204 37,808

1,071 842 609 6,714 39,030

1,094 851 630 6,927 39,282

782 652 639 5,432 32,923

Source: Trademap

MARKET REPORT

Knit Apparel Imports - Category wise

6101 6102 6103 6104 6105 6106 6107 6108 6109 6110 6111 6112 6113 6114 6115 6116 6117

HS 4 Categories Mens, boys overcoats, capes, cloak, etc, knit, croche Womens, girls overcoats, etc, knit or crochet Mens, boys suits,jackets,trousers etc knit or crochet Womens, girls suit, dress, skirt, etc, knit or croche Mens, boys shirts, knit or crochet Womens, girls blouses and shirts, knit or crochet Mens, boys underwear, nightwear, etc, knit or crochet Womens, girls underwear, nightwear, etc knit, crochet T shirts, singlets and other vests, knit or crochet Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, etc, knit or crochet Babies garments, clothing accessories, knit or croche Track suits, ski suits and swimwear, knit or crochet Garments of knit or crochet impregnated fabric Garments, knit or crochet, nes Panty hose, tights, hosiery nes, knit or crochet Gloves, mittens and mitts, knit or crochet Clothing accessories or parts nes, knit or crochet

2016 872 859 1,640 6,166 2,062 809 1,710 3,325 5,986 14,286 1,858 902 201 1,231 2,232 894 385

2017 850 836 1,788 6,184 2,031 863 1,714 3,290 5,835 14,389 1,889 966 189 1,373 2,293 907 352

Unit : US$ Million 2018 933 863 2,096 6,192 2,034 766 1,893 3,268 6,144 15,260 1,949 985 190 1,384 2,393 979 370

2019 961 878 2,198 5,908 2,060 667 1,887 3,192 6,587 15,530 1,892 933 211 1,454 2,450 1,051 382

2020 618 615 1,943 4,962 1,431 461 1,582 2,844 5,092 11,628 1,588 681 199 1,226 2,043 961 390

Source: Trademap

Woven Apparel Imports - Category wise

6201 6202 6203 6204 6205 6206 6207 6208 6209 6210 6211 6212 6213 6214 6215 6216 6217

HS 4 Categories Mens, boys overcoats, capes, windjackets etc, woven Womens, girls overcoats, capes, windjackets etc, wove Mens or boys suits, jackets, trousers etc not knit Womens, girls suits, jacket, dress, skirt, etc, wove Mens or boys shirts Womens or girls blouses, shirts and shirt blouses Mens, boys underwear, nightwear, not knit or crochet Womens, girls underwear, nightwear, not knit, crochet Babies garments and clothing accessories Garments made up of felt or coated fabric Track suits, ski suits and swimwear, other garments Brassieres, girdles, corsets, braces, suspenders, etc Handkerchiefs Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas, veils etc Ties, bow ties and cravats Gloves, mittens and mitts Clothing accessories or parts nes, not knit or croche

2016 1,830 2,155 8,431 10,233 3,668 2,847 279 373 468 1,802 2,394 2,846 45 491 209 307 172

2017 1,894 2,092 8,177 10,008 3,393 2,694 245 401 460 1,789 2,581 2,927 45 430 187 317 168

Unit : US$ Million 2018 2,148 2,353 8,523 10,365 3,507 2,673 242 450 415 1,955 2,660 2,548 49 422 183 361 176

2019 2,445 2,675 8,479 10,219 3,395 2,449 238 396 398 2,191 2,721 2,491 45 422 154 367 197

2020 1,718 1,783 5,745 7,652 2,170 1,590 212 344 317 5,942 2,339 2,124 74 329 63 321 200

Source: Trademap

APRIL 2021

EVENT UPDATE

NNF FASHION TRENDS 2021-22

In the times of pandemic, DESCATUK conducted their flagship event DESCATUK NNF Fashion Trends 202122 to connect with 500+ student designers and professionals around the world to exchange ideas on sustainable, circular Fashion Revolution Week 2021, Dr Vishaka Karnad, Honorary Secretary from the “Textiles” Special Interest Group Textile Institute India, & Associate Professor Department of Textile & Fashion Technology, College of Home Science Nirmala Niketan Mumbai, declared the winners for the Design Competition under NNF Kids Fashion, NNF Womens Fashion, NNF Mens Fashion, NNF Home Decor, NNF Emerging Fashion categories amongst Twelve Finalists. This event helped students and budding designers to invest their ideas and efforts in designing fashions directed to sustainability. It was a means of engaging their creative minds in conceptualizing innovative theme-based designs keeping them away from the pandemic worries. This event motivated them to create sustainable circular fashions to contribute to the fashion industry. This virtual event was attended by Manmohan Chauhan, Head Sales Welspun India, Pradeep Kumar COO WFB Baird, Pradeep Lunawat, Angel Investor, B B Bharti , Ex Additional Director Ministry of Textiles, Nupur Singh, Sourcing and Sustainability Expert, Tarun Bajaj, Business Head Magnolia Pearl South-East Asia and many more fashion textile professionals. The finalists were selected by the members of “Design Review Board” comprising of experts from the field of circular and sustainable fashions. Out of the 250+ submissions from 30+ fashion institutes around the world, the finalists reached the contest finale held on 2nd May 2021 after several scrutiny and mentoring sessions organized since 5th March 2021.

APRIL 2021

EVENTUPDATE

Team from the Department of Textile and Fashion Technology College of Home Science Nirmala Niketan represented by Arvi Mandviwala, Jinanshi Shah and Hardi Desai, mentored by Prof. Neha Mulchandani were the winners with their Morphed Styles Collection including Jumper-suits and other trendy convertible garments with creative Fanny Bags and other accessory designs for NNF Kids Fashion. Team of Surat Education and Research Society were winners in NNF Women Fashion for their theme Reversible Reefer presented by Mitsu Adeusara, Anuj Ribadita, Drashti Goyani, and Vrushti under the guidance of Pooja Phalak of NIFT Mumbai Project Associate DESCAT. NNF Men’s Fashion winner from MIT -Institute of Design Sandra Joseph Morris mentored by Prof Ms Maith-

nology was honored for the maximum participation of their students from SOFT during the NNF Design Competition 2021. The presentations from the students of Wuhan University and BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology received special appreciation from the jury for their innovative and circular approach. Mr. Timir Roy Chairman Textiles Special Interest Group The Textile Institute witnessed one of the presentation and was very appreciative of the work presented by the participants. Mr. Anuj Sharma Founder of Alsisar Impact, Mr. Manohar Samuel Advisor Sustainability at Grasim Industries Limited, DJ Gohain Director and Publisher Textile Excellence Ms. Nureen Das MIT India Program Manager, Ms. Priyanka Khanna known for circular economy and international growth strategies and Dr. Prakash C Director Indian Institute of Handloom Technology also shared their opinions and provided positive feedback and direction to the participants for their work presented during the series of design presentations. Many other Design Review Board members contributed in the formulation of the design competition criteria and helped in the selection of the final designs. Ms. Mrunmayi Mangeshkar Ms. Anjali Namdhari Ms. Tushita Verma Ms. Sharmili Maji were amongst some of the mentors who meticulously and consistently guided the participants for enhancing their presentation skills.

ilee Gohel. School of Fashion Technology Pune. Kalyani Duo’s Meadow - multi usable Home Fashion with DIY End of cycle was the winner in NNF Home Decor. Gender-less fashion is winner in NNF Emerging fashion category by INSD, Pune presented Jigisha mentored by Vaishali Honrao.

The finale was concluded with the launch of new products from DESCATUK - 12 Ne LIVA NNF 50:50 yarn cocreated with Birla Cellulose, low GSM LIVA NNF Hand

Dr. Manju Hundekar, Principal School of Fashion Tech-

APRIL 2021

EVENT UPDATE

ed sustainable brands for collaboration with these Designers. He has shown Gratitude was expressed to the event sponsors Alsisar Impact, Usha Yarn, Resitor, Members of Design Review Board, Mentors, and team DESCATUK for their immense contributions to make NNF DESIGN COMPETITION 2021 a big success in fashion campus. loom Fabrics for apparel, NNF Wool Linen collection and NNF Wool knitted throws during the competition. Mr. Manmohan Chauhan Sr Vice President Welspun India announced all possible opportunities for finalists In Welspun India. Speaking on the occasion Mr. K D

Finalists, Faculty mentors, Design Review Board member are offered FREE annual membership worth Rs 2500/- of Dev UK Foundation a charity arm of DESCATUK and guided NNF cluster tour in COVID free environment during 2021-22, announced by Mr K D Sharma. NNF Design Competition 2022-23, will be conducted by Dev UK Foundation. Mr K D Sharma greeted Mr. Anuj Sharma Founder Alsisar Impact for accepting Trustee in The Dev UK Foundation. Women power in the Board of Directors of DESCATUK strengthened with the joining of Dr Vishaka Karnad of the Textile Institute & Assoc. Prof. Department of Textile and Fashion Technology at College of Home Science Nirmala Niketan Mumbai. “We hope to see more such initiatives from DESCATUK, to bring out the sustainable initiatives, the connect the ecosystem of fashion influencers to industry experts helping students to realize their ideas from the lens of execution” as stated by Mr BB Bharti Ex Additional Commissioner Ministry of Textile in his concluding remarks . For further details contact: Email: descatuk@gmail.com / vishakakarnad@gmail.com Refer to Websites: For DESCATUK DESCATUK | Dev Ethical Sustainable Crafts and Textiles | Dehradun For Membership of the Textile Institute Refer to The Textile Institute | Membership, Accreditation & Professional Development

Sharma CEO DESCATUK congratulated the winners and offered them paid Summer Internship/Pre Placement offers. All their collections will be uploaded in the special section of DESCATUK website for the interest-

APRIL 2021

FASHION UPDATE

FASHION SHIFT: CLOTHING REIMAGINED THOMAS P. S. ONG Department of Corporate Stratagies & Communication (CSC), NanoTextile Sdn.Bhd.

We have seen a slow shift of fashion in the recent years, in clothing textiles particularly. Regardless of which market segments of sportswear, kids’ garments or women’s clothing, they have all shown some functionalities as new offerings to consumers. The demand has increased along with what these fashion brands and retail outlets have got to offer. Regardless of the approach, the direct use of nanotechnology enhancement in textiles has been inevitably shown to create properties like stain repellent, wrinkle-free, static eliminating, electrically conductive and anti-microbial garments. These properties have been found to be further benefitted by there being no compromise in clothing quality and comfort. Let us look at some statistics to validate these observations. The demand has grown so much throughout the past years where consumers are demanding more than just a fabric. The industry players in the textile industry

Image 1:. Women’s clothing line is amongst the many sub-segments ready to push to sales up and forward with technology adoption; part of the $205 billion by 2022 forecast projection in clothing industry

look forward to improve in technology adoption. The market for textiles making use of nanotechnologies has risen rapidly from $20.3 billion in 2008 and is projected to reach $205 billion by 2022 representing 16% of the global textile industry by value. Women’s clothing line is amongst the many sub segments ready to push to sales up and forward with technology adoption. Fashion and technology are inevitably a blend of art with each comprises of its own advancements and developments. When NanoTextile launched the themes “Going Functional” in 2016, “When Fashion Meets Technology” and “When Mighty Meets Nano” in 2019, fashion companies are by necessity quick to pick up on the latest trends. It was the year when fashionista and technologist believe in clothing reimagination. NanoTextile did just that by extending to everything from clothes and business models to new innovations in functional, technical offerings and production. NanoTextile offers the opportunity of both investment and opportunity for all main players in the industry to offer functional clothing as part of their series of products. Fashion industry and technology combine from manufacturing process until the end product as they face up to its responsibility to satisfy consumers and fulfill demand. In NanoTextile, we are focused at nanoembedment processes, which is the final finishing process. Our technologies are compatible to different types of fabric such as composite, leather, cotton, PE, chiffon, silk, lycra, linen etc. Optimization of the embedment process is done to target market segments like automotive, industrial, home and cloth-

ing textiles. The application gives advantages in fashion industry with various offerings in terms of performance, comfortability, cleanliness and current needs. The technology finishing defers from each other. NanoTextile offers an array of technologies, functionalities attributed by nanotechnology range from the Hygienic, Care, Comfort, Protection, Advanced and Premium series. For example, the Hygienic Series would consist of the anti fungus, anti microbial, anti bacterial, self-cleaning and odor control technologies. By offering the embedment processes through friendly and approachable business models, clients can maintain their supply chain undisrupted.

Image 2: With different series offering of technologies, NanoTextile is ready to catalyse the whole textile industry covering horizontal of segments with new functionalities to address the demands.

“When Fashion Meets Technology” has definitely infused confidence to consumer. Using nanomaterials in industrial textiles offers a way to the creation of textiles that fits this bill. The idea was to convey the message that technologies can be used to improve the current state of fabric. With nanotech-

APRIL 2021

FASHION UPDATE

nology embedment as an added value proposition, many new functionalities are being introduced – the demand statistics. For instant, “When Mighty Meets Nano” in 2019 promotes odor free technologies in women’s clothing and sportswear market segments. In 2020, NanoTextile sets forth to continue the attempt to reimagine the fashion industry. There will be three products launches with its partners as well as two strategies to extend the spill over success from the past years which include free consultation all year

the clothing industry. To modernize the clothing industry, NanoTextile offers a new approach for the processing of fabric materials. The expectations of modern day consumers regarding the textile products they use have increased dramatically and will continue to rise. Consumers want textiles that suit their taste and are comfortable, hygienic and eco-friendly. The everincreasing demand for sophisticated fabrics with special features and exceptional comfort drives the need for the use of nanotechnology in this industry.

long. It has always been a mission to catalyse the industry by getting the industry to embrace functional textile manufacturing. If 2019 was about setting footprint at international level like Fibre2Fashion and World Textile Information Network (WTiN), then 2021 and beyond is about converting and reaching business realizations. With that, nanotechnology is a no doubt an interdisciplinary technology often seen as a new industrial revolution. It is offering a novel means of processing fabric that could transform

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