November 2021 by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

VOLUME 9 | ISSUE NO. 11 | RS 100 | Pages 68 ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

NOVEMBER 2021

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

INTERVIEWS: • Mr. Viktor Lazzeri, Barbieri • Dr. Suranjana Gangopadhay, HOD, VJTI

Military Textiles: The Scope and Future

MARKET REPORT: • MMF TRADE DATA

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CONTENTS COVER STORY

09 Military Textiles: The Scope and Future India 2021: Foreign Investment 12 Techtextil Opportunities in Tamil Nadu OF FLAME-RETARDANT TEXTILES 12 PROCESSING IN INDUSTRIES Exports of Technical Textiles 17 India’s Witnessed a Hike TEXTILE MACHINERY

19 21

Despite Covid-19 disruption, capacity use of TEI dips to only 46% from 49% Citation of Export Excellence and R&DAwards

FOR ATMANIRBHAR BHARAT IN 26 ROADMAP TEXTILE MACHINERY MOOTED

$2 bn Import Substitution Scope for TEI: Varun Sood

SUSTAINABILITY, A MAJOR THEME AT INNOVATE 2021

INTERVIEW

Spectro LFP qb, a Cutting-edge Technology of Barbieri

Industry “Entering a More Mature 35 Textile Stage”

FASHION FOCUS Festivals Influence Indian Fashion 49 How Industry Textiles of Odisha: History and 51 Handloom Types

NEWS UPDATE

Industrial Practices for Improved 53 “Better Productivity” by CTF Creating Natural & 55 CanvaLoop: Bio-degradable Fibre from Himalayan Hemp International Offers Certifications & 58 GSCS Audits

POST EVENT REPORT

60 Over 20,000 visitors at HGH India 2021 MARKET UPDATE

MMF- Trade statistics

EVENT CALENDAR

62 Show calendar HGH TREND BOOK

63 Trends 2021-22

MACHINES AND PROCESSES

Picanol launches new “Connect” generation airjet & rapier weaving machines

Stäubli at SITEX 2022 Surat International Textile Expo

DENIM FUSION OF DENIM WITH INDIAN 42 AMALGAMATION CRAFTS & TEXTILES

ADVERTISER INDEX Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Raysil Front Inside: Rimtex Page 3: BIRLA CELLULOSE Page 4: SITEX 2022 Page 5: COLORJET Page 6: UDYOG 2022 Page 11: Meera Industries

Page 25: Amritlakshmi Page 29: Sakthi Inustries Page 32: Unitech Texmach Page 41: Bishnu Exports Page 47: KEN Page: 54: OMAX Page: 59: Mahalaxmi Ceramics

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More R&D in Natural Fibres is Need of the Hour Natural fibres need more research on functionalities because these fibres are being increasingly used in technical textiles. Cotton and jute need to be explored. All fibres cannot be used to produce technical textiles because of their mechanical and chemical properties. Some fibres have been selected for making technical textile for their special properties. Sustainability in technical textiles is emerging as a potential area. Sisal fibre largely imported from South Africa holds out scope. Product and technology should match. Innovation out of raw materials is less than what is required in today’s vast growing market. Renewable fibres are a great asset in this field. Suresh Kotak’s formula is:Identify functions, go back and find out the right natural fibre. Cotton—its function came by itself, and today China has stolen a march over many others in wipes & masks. Another example is by coating cotton with some materials, it can be converted into a material for various repellents. In India, minds are traditional bound. Bamboo fibres are an insecticide, naturally. A cotton research body has 39 innovative uses, but has not been approached for commercial purpose. Cotton coated with acrylic is used for conveyor belts. In order to bring down the cost of production of some new material, innovation in technology is a prerequisite. Environmental damages are made by materials like plastics. An alternative with cotton and other natural fibres can be tried out. For instance, why still jute and PP are used for packaging cotton bales, resulting in contamination. A good cotton packaging material can be realised by R&D. Super Hybridisation must be part of our vision. To achieve all these, we should incentivise inventions. Innovations from institutions like VJTI and CIRCOT must be encouraged. During the last few years, the use of technical textiles has made rapid strides. Natural, synthetic, and high-performance fibres are being used in many technical textile applications. The application and use of natural, synthetic, and high-performance fibres and for Indutech, Hometech, Clothtech, Buildtech, Packtech, and Oekotech. As the strength of natural fibres is not so good, the use of synthetic and high-performance fibres is increasing in industrial and technical products. One of the major applications of technical textiles is in the filtration media. The performance of a specific filter is based on the selection of fibre, textile material, and the way they have been assembled. The properties of fluid for which the filter has to be designed must be considered carefully as well. Human beings have been using regular clothing to protect themselves from a very hot and cold environment. The workers in some occupations (like military, police, firefighting, and healthcare) are exposed to different hazards, so they are required to wear protecting textile clothing. Today the people around the world have become more educated with higher living standards. Therefore, the use of high technology products, which offer enhanced performance, durability, hygienic conditions, and aesthetic, has become the need of the day. The demand for eco-friendly and bio-degradable packaging is growing now as they have a great impact on human health and the environment. The use of natural fibres for environmental protection is not new. While the use of synthetic and high-performance fibres for environmental protection is a revolutionary change in the current century. One of its uses is in protecting the crops and soil artificially by weather changes to increase productivity. The new and advanced developments for environmental protection will keep on increasing across the world in the coming years. The scope for natural fibres, of which India has plenty, is increasing too.

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COVER STORY

Military Textiles: The Scope and Future Image Source: wikimedia.org

TVC Editorial Team

echnical textiles are fabrics that are made for a particular function. They are used due to their unique characteristics and technical capabilities. Military, marine, industrial, medical, and aerospace are just a few of the areas where these materials are used. For a wide range of applications, the military sector is highly reliant on technical textiles. Severe climatic situations, abrupt body movements, and deadly atomic or chemical reactions are all protected by the fabrics, which are specifically tailored for the soldiers. Furthermore, the utility of technical textiles doesn’t really end there. The usefulness of such fabrics has long been acknowledged for improving fighter efficiency and saving people’s lives in battle. Following World War II, this industry experienced significant development and growth. The progress of textile technology has led to significant improvements in military uniforms nowadays. The military uniform has evolved into an integral element of their fighting gear, also serving as a means of protection. Smart textiles are increasingly integrating with service ecosystems that extend further than the typical horizontal textile supply chain. It is intended to expand the material and tangible qualities of technical textiles to intangible characteristics derived from services like the ability to measure and store information and adjust a material’s usefulness over time. In a Webinar conducted by Techtextil India 2021, Yogesh Gaikwad, Director of SDC International Limited said, “When we talk about military textiles, it covers a lot of spectrums such as apparels, helmets, tents, gears. The top 10 militaries have around 100 million soldiers and at least 4-6 meters of fabrics are required per soldier. Around 15-25% are repeat orders for replacing the damages or worn-out pieces. Camouflage and protection, secure locations and logistics (Rucksacks bags) are three major areas where military textiles are used.” Major Drivers Behind Market Demand for Military Textiles: » Military officials all throughout the world make considerable use of technical textiles. Textile-based materials combining nanotechnology and electronics are essential in the creation of high-tech military clothing and supplies. Active and intelligent textiles, when combined with technology, have the

potential to increase a soldier’s efficiency by detecting and adjusting to the pre-set condition, as well as reacting to situational needs. » Armed personnel will be able to complete all of their tasks with fewer equipment and less burden thanks to technological solutions. Uniforms with smart fabrics have a unique power source. It permits military to carry a single battery rather than multiple batteries, reducing the number of wires needed in their gear. Talking about the market demand, Mr. Gaikwad further said, “One of the major purchases of ministry of defence is camouflage textiles as the survival of the soldiers depends on this fabric. The purpose of camouflage is to blend the combat suit and equipment to the natural surroundings as well as reduce the visibility of soldiers and tools. Camouflage textiles are of two types – with IR (Infrared) specification and without IR specification. Such materials can also obscure a person’s vision in UV and infrared light from a certain range. Furthermore, nanotechnology is being used to produce new technological fibres that can stimulate muscular strength, giving soldiers additional power when performing difficult tasks. The newly designed zero permeability parachute material has an incredible ability to function with high safety and efficiency.” Physical Properties of Military Textiles: » The attire of military personnel must be made of lightweight fire- and UV light resistant-fabric. Designed for engineers who operate in hot environments, it should be able to control the odour. » It has to be biodegradable, water repellent and durable. » The fabric should be breathable, chemically protected » Military apparel should also be able to keep them warm and buoyant. There are many more parameters to be considered while making the military textiles. Fibres that could provide solutions: » Para-Aramid

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Image Source: made-in-china.com

Military Camouflage » Modacrylic » Aromatic Polyamide Fibres » Flame Retardant Viscose » Nanotechnology-enabled Fibre » Carbon Fibre » High Modules Polyethylene (UH MPE) » Glass Fibre » Bi-Component Knit Construction » Gel Spun Polyethylene Competitive Market Analysis of Military Textiles: The marketplace is quite competitive. Companies compete on improved smart textile performance, cost-effective technologies, quality of products, durability, and market share. Suppliers must deliver cost-effective and high-quality goods and services to survive and prosper in this climate. Governments across the globe have put a great priority on providing their forces with the most up-to-date equipment and facilities, especially advanced military gear. As a result, the worldwide technical textiles for defence market have grown. Smart textiles have improved the efficiency and features of military apparels by increasing aspects such as maximising camouflage, incorporating technologies into the garments, reducing the weight carried, and boosting ballistic protection utilising cutting-edge technologies. Application Segment of the Military Smart Textiles Market: Camouflage, power harvest, temperature monitoring & control, security & mobility, health monitoring, etc. are some of the applications that the worldwide military smart textiles market can be divided into.

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By 2027, the worldwide military smart textiles market is expected to be dominated by the camouflage sector. Energy harvesting, temperature monitoring & control, and health monitoring categories are likely to increase at a robust pace during the predicted period, creating considerable incremental possibilities. Other sectors are expected to grow at a medium to high rate in the coming years in terms of quantity. According to a UK Publication, A “smart” skin influenced by chameleons which changes colour depending on the light might be the future of military camouflage. As per researchers, the revolutionary material may also be useful in anti-counterfeiting activities. Chameleons and neon tetra fish, for example, can change their colours to disguise themselves, attract a partner, or scare attackers, according to the researchers. Experts have attempted to recreate similar characteristics in synthetic “smart” skins, but the substances used have still not proven to be durable. Regional Analysis of Military Textiles: Asia, particularly growing countries like India and China, has seen a significant rise in the military sector. In the APAC region, defence budget is increasing at one of the fastest rates throughout the world. Combined with the need to prepare military soldiers for modern combat, large sums of money have been invested in new military equipment as well as improved military apparel. Asia Pacific leads the worldwide market demand for military, smart textiles. Europe and the US come in second and third position, respectively. The market of military textiles in North America is expected to grow as the nation’s textile sector expands. The textile industry employs 6% of the entire manufacturing workforce in Europe. The United Kingdom spent 21 billion pounds in 2019-2020 in this sector. Thus, the market in Europe is predicted to grow as the textile industry in Europe expands.

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COVER STORY Techtextil India 2021: Foreign Investment Opportunities in Tamil Nadu TVC Editorial Team

Image source: indiantextilemagazine.in

fter two years, Techtextil India 2021 opened on 25th November in Mumbai, bringing together the technical textile sector. The trade event featured a variety of educational seminars, live product demonstrations, as well as B2B meetups to highlight the future prospects of technical textiles. Ajit Chavan, secretary of the Textiles Committee, opened the trade event. The trade fair took place in both physical and hybrid edition. According to a press release from show organiser

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Messe Frankfurt India, the goal of the revised edition first post-lockdown—is to encourage industry cohesion and help economic recovery throughout the value chain of technical textiles. “The policies of Indian government are completely intended for the development of technical textiles. We have fixed a target of Rs. 2 lakh crores for the nation, and the Indian market is prepared to meet that goal. “Our country have a great deal of potential in

medtech and agrotech, and we have always been always been at the forefront of packtech, geotech, as well as other high-tech fields,” Chavan stated during the inaugural ceremony. The three-day trade event featured top technical textile businesses from Tamil Nadu and throughout the country. The Tamil Nadu government announced a strong partnership with Messe Frankfurt India for the 2021 edition, adding that this will promote textile policy and investment opportunities at the expo in way to lure enterprises and investors to the state. “Although, there are numerous natural benefits for the development of technical textiles in Tamil Nadu particularly, majority of raw materials required to make artificial ligaments, seat belt webbings, sanitary items, and airbags are still imported. In this scenario, by working alongside international technical textiles firms, the Techtextil India Group can assist us in reducing dependence on imports and attracting r&d investments, production, and innovation.” said Ms. Pooja Kulkarni, MD & CEO, Guidance Tamil Nadu. During the Techtextil India webinar session on ‘Investment opportunities in Tamil Nadu’, she also said, “Tamil Nadu is the top investment destination of India due to the state’s advanced infrastructure, network capacity, strong industrial base, skilled manpower as well as locational advantages and connectivity that cater to its well-established manufacturing ecosystems and facilitate exports.” She further added, “33% of all textile business in India comes from Tamil Nadu itself. Tamil Nadu accounts for 28% of the total employment in the textile sector of India. The state is also leading manufacturer and exporter of cotton yarns in India. Coimbatore, Tirupur, Karur which were the hub for natural fibre are now also strongly growing into man-made fibres. Also, during the pandemic situation last year, the region was a great support in quickly adopting to manufacturing PPEs

and masks. The local manufacturers were quickly able to scale up their operations as well as new operators came in and they beat the demand for PPEs. Therefore, the region has now a strong presence MedTech.” Ms. Pooja also talked about some attracting technical textiles investments to Tamil Nadu which include Technical Textile investment worth Rs. 1771 Cr. and Textile investment worth Rs. 2170.04 Cr. The overall investments in Tamil Nadu’s textile sector totalled Rs. 3,941.04 Cr. Jayashree Spun Bond, Cyber Textiles India Pvt. Ltd., Lenzing Ag India, Loyal Textile Mills Ltd., Liester Technologies, Uster Technologies (India) Pvt. Ltd. and Milltex Engineers Pvt. Ltd., are among the technical textile companies from Tamil Nadu who attended this important trade fair. “The state excels in Agrotech, Meditech, Clothtech, Buildtech, and “ Ms. Kulkarni stated, emphasizing Tamil Nadu’s proficiency in technical textiles. Tamil Nadu’s automotive ecosystem is well positioned to attract high-value, high-technology Mobiltech investment, as it has India’s largest automobile and auto-component hub. Likewise, Tamil Nadu is home to half of India’s textile factories, as well as related hubs of knitting, weaving, and medical equipment manufacture in Coimbatore and Tirupur. Production in India can be a huge victory for companies because investments in Tamil Nadu will give them access to a growing market.” The Market in India for technical textiles, valued at USD 19 billion, is increasing at a CAGR of 12%, 3 times quicker than the global pace, showing great export potential. The Government of Tamil Nadu recently announced a budget that prioritises infrastructure building for the textile industry, with special emphasis on upcoming technical textile parks in Karur and Virudhunagar. Reference: Webinar conducted by Techtextil India 2021

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COVER STORY PROCESSING OF FLAME-RETARDANT TEXTILES IN INDUSTRIES Dr N.N.Mahapatra

Business Head(Dyes) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD. Mumbai, India

he term flame retardant is used to describe fabrics which will not support combustion and are self-extinguishing. Fabrics of this type, when involved in an accidental fire would not contribute to spreading the flames. Other descriptions, such as flame proof, fire proof and flame resistant, are either meaningless or misleading. Nearly all fabrics are combustible to some degree. The rate of burning ranges from that of guncotton (nitrocellulose), which burns so quickly that it produces an explosion, to that of asbestos, which is virtually unaffected by fire. Flame retardant fabrics can be produced in two ways. 1. by making them of fibres which do not burn. 2. by chemically treating the fibres to produce the desired effect. There was a time originally when such materials could only be produced by employing a chemical finish. However, this can often cause problems in terms of durability of the process and its impact on the environment. Strict controls are required to achieve consistency and problems arise likewise with the final look of the material. Even where the flame-retardant quality is guaranteed over a certain number of washes, there can be no certainty of the effectiveness of the procedure, as it is practically impossible to monitor the number of washes in practice. All such difficulties are avoided by the use of permanently modified chemical fibres. The polymer was invented in 1974. The development of staple fibres and filament took place in 1976-79. It was introduced in the USA in 1979 and Europe in 1980. The permanent flame-retardant properties were due to the organic phosphorous compound incorporated into the polymer chain. As it was a low-level modification the textile properties of the polymer remain unchanged. Fire Retardant polyester fibre came to India by Hoechst AG, Germany by the trade name of Trevira CS (CS stands for Comfort and Safety). From the outset there was also a large role for home textiles; today the most important sector for Trevira. The product range extends from drapes, decorative and upholstery fabrics to carpet fibres. Yet here too, the portfolio began to change towards specialities early. In 1980 one such was Trevira CS, a flame retardant fibre, which from its launch recorded ever-rising growth rates and is today the star product of the company. With over 1000 flame retardant Trevira CS fabric collections for the home tex-

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tiles sector worldwide, Trevira is the market leader in this segment. Since then, the range of flame retardant fibres and yarns has undergone a steady flow of changes and innovations. In 2004, Reliance crossed another milestone in its polyester journey when it acquired Trevira GmbH, an erstwhile division of the German giant Hoechst AG, a leading producer of branded polyester fibres in Europe. Specific moisture absorption of Trevira is around 0.4% at 20 deg C and 65% RH. It can however be made considerably higher by the hydrophilic surface of the material and the capillary effect between the fibres. Moisture penetration is very high, thus releasing humidity, something very important for instance for sitting comfortably. Trevira CS has been tested to German, American and Japanese health standards and being adjudged non-toxic, not allergenic or mutagenic and non-irritant. The Eco-Tex 100 test confirms that Trevira CS is free from harmful substances. Trevira CS has three flame retardant mechanisms like it melts away from the flame, absorbing ignition energy. Flame retardant groups quench reactive species, chain reaction cannot propagate. The polyester modification created by Trevira performs a very important function. Within a flame, highly charged elements called radicals are released which rapidly propagate more flames. The Trevira modification captures and neutralises the radicals before they can propagate more flames. Trevira belongs to the polyester group of fibres, which are rendered permanently flame-retardant by the inclusion of a small proportion of a phosphorous-organic component. They display all the typical properties of polyester fibres and offer industry and consumer considerable advantages. Hoechst (Germany) gave the licence only to Rajasthan Spinning and Weaving mills, Gulabpura (Rajasthan) to use this fibre in India. Trevira supplies 100% Trevira flame retardant fibres or filament yarns. Trevira CS fabrics are made from flame retardant fibres and used therefore in the home textile and contract furnishing sectors. They are flame retardant to all appropriate fire protection requirements and produce only slight amounts of smoke fume. For the first time, the flame retardant qualities combine with bioactive properties to also provide safety from microbes. These qualities are not lost by cleaning, ageing or wear. Trevira CS is easy care, light, fast, comfortable and kind to the skin. Trevira CS is used in hotels, and hospitals, offices and event rooms and principally where people are traveling on aircraft, buses on

Image Source: What they think

trains and at sea.

polyester fibre. The process is as follows:

The following are the advantages of using Trevira:

Blowroom - Carding - Draw frame – Simplex - Ringframe – Winding – TFO – Packing .

1. Outstanding running properties in spinning and twisting. 2. Very good processability, high yarn uniformity and tenacity for weaving, circular and warp knitting. 3. Excellent dyeability using a variety of methods, environmentally friendly finish processes giving crease resistant fabrics with good shape retention. 4. Good hard-wearing properties. 5. Easy-care. 6. Outstanding light fastness. 7. Permanent flame retardance. The following are the processes involved in making fire retardant textiles: 1. Spinning 2. Bleaching. 3. Dyeing. 4. Finishing. 5. Printing. The above processes are discussed as below. 1. Spinning - It is classified into two types: a. Grey CS yarn b. Dyed CS yar Grey fibre is normally available in 1.4 D x 44 mm. The spinning is done in the same manner like 100% normal

The grey yarn goes for weaving and making of soft package for yarn dyeing. Secondly, the dyed fibre is received from dyehouse. The dyed fibre is sprayed with LV 40 and 2152P and conditioned for 16 hrs. Then it follows the similar route in spinning as prescribed for 100% dyed normal polyester fibre. The dyed yarn is sent to weaving /knitting Flame retardant Trevira CS spinning yarns can be used in any spinning process, resulting in outstanding with ring spinning, OE–rotor and airjet spinning, as well as with carded yarns and worsteds. A variety of effects is possible for which the product range includes dull, semi-dull and bright types. Extremely fine three-cylinder yarns are used in delicate fabrics, decorative materials and bed linens. The OE–rotor yarns with a flat, soft structure form the basis for decorative fabrics, vertical blinds and mattress materials. The current demand for soft, transparent and bright yarns is particularly met by filament yarns of the high-capillary type for drapes and decorative fabrics. Degree of fineness range from 50 dtex with delicate goods through to 3000 dtex for cover fabrics with high wear and light fastness properties. With false twist yarn one can achieve light but bulky weaves. The wide range of fire-retardant Trevira spun yarns enables spinners to offer complete collection of yarns. They have a quality which is not only ideal for their purposes but is fire-retardant as well. The range comprises degrees of fineness for practically every application; from the finest (1.3 >1.7 dtex) for delicate fabrics right through to the extremely coarse (13 dtex) for carpets.

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2. Bleaching - Bleaching is not required prior to dyeing of dark and medium shades. It is almost white. But in case of clear and pastel shades bleaching with peroxide is required prior to dyeing. 3. Dyeing - There are four types of dyeing. a.

Filament yarn dyeing.

Spun yarn dyeing

Loose staple fibre dyeing.

Fabric dyeing.

a. Filament yarn dyeing- normally 165 dtex is used in filament dyeing. Soft package of 700-800 gm is made on perforated polypropylene tubes by precision soft winding machine having overfeed attachment. Then it is dyed in HTHP Dyeing Machines at temperature of 120 deg C for 30-45 min depending on shades. It is Hydroextracted in Dettin package Hydroextractor. It is dried in RF Dryer. It is rewinded on paper cone. The dyed package goes for Weaving or Knitting. The principal applications for flat yarns are in curtains and decorative fabrics, irrespective of whether these are false twist, jet –tax, jet-tweed, multicolour or chenille yarns. A further possibility involves use of texturised filament yarns, where a very wool-like character can be achieved with specially air-textured types for furniture fabrics. b. Spun yarn dyeing- Similarly spun yarn is made in various counts ranging from 2/5, 2/8 ,2/12, 2/20, 2/24, v2/30, 2/50.Then soft package is made on PS Mettler or SSM winding machines. Package weight is 900 gm to 1 kg. It is loaded in HTHP dyeing machines. It is dyed at 120 deg C. The rest process is as above. An even wider range of design perspectives is opened up by combining filament and fibre yarns. Employing fancy yarns, such as knit-deknit types, produces striking designs. Jet-tex and tweed types are mainly used as upholstery and decorative material and as wall coverings. c. Loose staple fibre dyeing - Normally 1.7 d x 44 mm Trevirs CS fibre are available for dyeing. The CS fibre is loaded in the carrier. Then the loaded carrier goes into the HTHP Dyeing Machines. It is dyed at 120 deg C at a pH of 4-5. with a leveling agent like Lyogen DFT (of Clariant) is added. Dark shades are reduction cleared with Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite. (1 gpl and 2 gpl respectively) . Then hot wash at 85-90 deg C. Then acid neutralised by acetic acid. Then Antistatic Agent Sapcotex F (Henkel)– 0.4 % (o w g). Then the carrier is offloaded. The dyed fibre goes for Hydroextraction . Then it is dried in RF Dryer / Steam Dryer. Total dyeing time takes about 4-4.5 hrs. With a 40 deg C wash there are no discernible differences between normal polyester and Trevira CS fibres. At 60 deg C with the same dyeing similar values are achieved on flame retardants as on non-modified types. d. Fabric dyeing – Trevira CS fabric is dyed in jet dyeing machines. The process is followed as above. After dyeing it is squeezed and dried in stenter at a lower temperature of 140 deg C to 150 deg C. Dispersion dyes

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take on fire–retardant somewhat faster than the corresponding normal polyester types. Due to these light shades can be dyed at boiling temperature without adding carrier. Medium to dark shades are dyed without carrier at a maximum temperature of 120 deg c. Disperse dyes used are high energy dyes from Dystar, Germany known as Diani FG dyes or Foron RD dyes from Clariant, Basle. In raw white for piece dyeing or as multicoloured yarns, flame retardant textiles can be made in all desired qualities. In general dyeing with coloured and patterned fabric results in adequate wash fastness. Preliminary tests are recommended, however as there is a possibility of staining adjacent material. Dyes on Trevira cs are fast to washing at boiling temperatures in bright shades and with selected dyestuffs. A chlorine-fast finish is possible with the appropriate dyestuffs. Boiling is not recommended for drapes and decorative fabrics. 4. Finishing - Selection of softeners is very critical. It has to be seen there is no negative effects on burning behaviour. Leomin ni of Clariant is the recommended softener to be used for CS fabrics in the dose level from 1 to 5 gpl. Trevira CS materials may be coated with PVC or polyurethane. An antimicrobial or fungicide finish is possible with Dodigen (from Clariant) or Afrotin LC (the Schill and Seilacher company). While maintaining the relevant fire category. Whilst being processed trevira cs fabrics can be exposed for brief periods to temperatures above 210 deg c. where they are exposed to temperatures for longer times, we recommend a maximum of 150 deg c in dry atmospheres and 100 deg C in humid conditions. With flame-retardant types in deep shades the fastness properties reduce bu ½ degrees as compared to dyes on normal types. 5. Printing - Pigment printing is not recommended for Trevirs CS fabrics because the use of binder and thickeners influence the flame retardant properties negatively. Transfer printing can be done on Trevira CS fabrics. Any papers printed with dispersion dyestuffs can be employed. Checks should first be made to ensure the Light Fastness of the dyestuffs involved is adequate. Varnish should not be used as part of the residue may adhere to the fabric in printing and exercise a negative effect of the flame-retardant behaviour on Trevira CS material Wear properties of Trevira CS fabrics 1. Stability – very good. 2. Abrasion resistance - > 60,000 Martindale 3. Durability – very good.v 4. Light- fastness – 7-8 . 5. UV-Stability Hrs – 80% (1400 Xenotest) 6. Washability – 60 deg C. 7. Stain removal – very good. Trevira CS fabrics satisfies all the relevant and important fire protection standards.

COVER STORY India’s Exports of Technical Textiles Witnessed a Hike TVC Editorial Team

India’s Export of Technical Textiles

echnical textile is a rapidly expanding sub-segment used in a wide range of industries. The ultimate application of technical textiles is diverse and may be found in sectors including agriculture, sportswear, construction, healthcare, automobile and so on. A few of the important factors to the development of this market include India’s push towards modernisation and its production efficiency.

nical textiles have witnessed a worldwide increase in recent times. Advanced technologies, a growth in end-use applications, cost-effectiveness, resilience, customer-friendliness, and sustainability of technical textiles have resulted in a rise in their market share in the global market.

In terms of revenue, Mobiltech, Indutech, Buildtech, Packtech, and Hometech account for almost two-thirds of the worldwide indusBecause of increasing market situation, tech- try. TVC | Nov 2021 17

Technical textile makes around 13% of India’s to shape; floor coverings consisting of a coatoverall textile and garment industry and adds ing or covering applied on a textile back were 0.7 per cent to India’s GDP. worth just US$0.01 million by the end of SepIndia exported textile wall coverings worth tember 2021. US$0.03 million in September, 2020 which increased to US$0.05 million in September, 2021. Between January and September 2021, the total exports were US$0.21 million, up by 58.56% from the last year.

In September 2020, the exports of textile products and articles for technical uses were about US$3.64 million and it grew by 15.64% in next year September to US$4.21 million. Total exports between January and September 2021 Exports of transmission/conveyor belts/belt- were also up by 44.89% from the previous year. ing of textile material wh/nt impregnated coat- Textile fabrics impregnated, coated, covered/ ed, covered/laminated with plastics reinforced lamented with plastics excel those of heading with mettle/other material September 2020 No. 5902 exports were worth US$21.21 million totalled US$1.01 million which declined by in September 2020 which increased by 4.08% 12.59% to US$0.88 million in September 2021. in September 2021 to US$22.08 million. From By the end of September 2020, the exports January to September 2020, the total exports were worth US$5.27 million and it increased were US$139.71 million which hiked up to to US$7.93 million in the corresponding peri- US$223.48 million during the same time span od of next year. of next year, up by 59.96% from the previous Textile wicks, woven, plaited/knitted, for light- year. ers, candles etc; incandescent gas mantles etc, w/n impregnated exports which were totalled US$0.8 million in September 2020, decreased by US$70.74% to 0.23 million in September 2021. From January to September 2021, the total exports increased by 6.7%.

India exported textile hose piping and similar textile tubing, with or without lining, armour or accessories of other materials worth US$0.19 million during September in both years.

India’s exports of rubberised textile fabrics, other than those of heading 5902 totalled US$1.27 million in the month of September 2021, increased by 89.43% from the last year. By the end of September 2021, the overall exports totalled US$9.04 million.

India exported Textile fabrics coated with gum or amylaceous substances, of a kind used for the outer covers of books or the like were worth US$1.36 million, up by 40.04% from the previous year. Between January and September India exported Textile fabrics otherwise im2021, the overall exports were up by 32.45%. pregnated, coated/covered; painted canvas Tyre cord fabric of high tenacity yarn of ny- being theatrical scenery, studio back-cloths lon or other polyamides, polyesters or viscose or the like worth US$1.5 million in Septemrayon exports in September 2021 witnessed a ber 2020 which witnessed a spike of 12.21% fall by 2.76% to US$4.48 million. By the end in September 2021. Between January and Sepof September 2020, the exports were totalled tember 2020, the total exports about US$8.84 US$27.36 million which increased to US$39.14 million which rose to US$15.32 million during million at the end of September 2021. the corresponding time of next year. India’s exports of Linoleum, whether or not cut 18 TVC | Nov 2021

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Despite Covid-19 disruption, capacity use of TEI dips to only 46% from 49% TVC Editorial Team

n his welcome speech, Mr. Vallabh Thumar, Chairman, Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (India) at the “61st Annual General Meeting of the Association, said that in the year gone by the global Covid-19 pandemic struck a complete structural disruption around the world throughout 202021. “The big churn of the first wave got the entire world to witness; ‘too big to fail’ economies shatter, numerous un-organized industries purged, unproductive business practices consolidated, training and skill development of the experienced manpower into multitasking roles increased, new R&D and indigenisation efforts of key technologies instituted, collaboration among competitors for survival founded, credit utilisation and resources at hand optimised, and novel business models based on internet incepted. Interestingly, the market bounced back from the ‘Zero Production’ days to the more than ‘100% Capacity Utilization’ days unheard of in decades post 1st & 2nd pandemic waves. However, the uncertainty remains among the entrepreneurs pertaining to

rising prices of the raw material, vagary of freight and containers’ availability, crunch of liquidity and geopolitical tension,” Mr. Thumar said. The TEI has currently an estimated annual installed capacity of Rs.11,000 crore per annum. The total provisional production of textile machinery, parts & accessories during 2020-21 recorded a marginal decrease of 5% viz. Rs.5,093 crore as against Rs.5,355 crore achieved during the previous year. During the fiscal year the capacity utilisation decreased from 49% to 46% as compared to the preceding year. This is despite the fact that there was negligible business during first two quarters of 2020-21. The exports during 2020-21 rose to Rs. 3,307 crores as against Rs. 2,556 crore achieved during 2019-20. On the other hand, the import was reduced to Rs. 8096 crore as against Rs. 9,273 crore during the year. Mr Thumar disclosed that the total domestic demand for textile machinery during 2020-21 was Rs. 9,118 crores of which supplies from the domestic machinery industry amounted to Rs.1,786 crore, aggregating 20% of the total demand. The bulk of the demand was met

through imports. Measures for Growth Orientation The Government of India prepared PANDEMIC Specific strategies and action plans not only for business continuity and sectoral revival but also to improve Ease of Doing Business in the country by releasing notifications/ amendments/circulars highlighting measures to improve the business environment in India, Mr Thumar said. Continuing on the momentum of the previous year, the office of the Textile Commissioner coordinated and processed the ATUF Scheme efficiently, barring a few months of complete lockdown. Majority of the cases related to the enlistment of textile machine manufacturers, induction of new machine types in the ATUF scheme and the release of ATUF subsidy were cleared on time. The association worked closely with Kalam Institute of Health Technology (AMTZ Vishakhapattanam) and Invest India both of whom conducted separate studies on the Indian Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) under the aegis of ‘Ministry of Textiles’ TVC | Nov 2021 19

during the year. The KIHT was assigned to conduct ‘Technology Gap Analysis in the Indian TEI’ and suggest measures to enhance the potential of the domestic industry. On the other hand, Invest India published an article on the status of the industry in the post-Covid-19 scenario and started working on an Opportunity Paper covering the Textile Machinery Industry in India. Written in association with TMMA, its aim is to showcase India’s strengths in Textile Machinery to both global and domestic players and highlight the opportunities and advantages of investing in the Indian TEI.

with the textile industry and the MoT on various projects to participate more efficiently in the ‘Make in India’ campaign. During the year the association also took initiatives in putting forward proposals for “Incentives for Commercialization of the Indigenously Developed and Acquired Technologies from Overseas”, to the Ministry of Textiles and Ministry of Heavy Industry & Public Enterprises. The main purpose was to support the domestic research and development and joint ventures under the ‘Make in India’ initiative of the Government of India to become commercially competitive not only in the domestic but also in the export markets. Both the ministries may be considering our proposal positively, and the association is quite optimistic of a suitable scheme in the coming fiscal year.

his co-Office Bearers, Mr. M. Shankar, Mr. Prashant Mangukia and Mr. Shailesh Wani and wished them a successful tenure. “I would like to sincerely thank the past chairmen of TMMA for all their help and guidance – in particular; Mr. Mehul Trivedi, Mr. R. Rajendran, Mr. Prakash Bhagwati, Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, and others who helped me during my tenure,” he added. Export and R&D Awards

He said: “It is our normal practice to present Export and R&D Awards at the Annual Session of the Association. In this Session, we are giving 8 Awards for Export Excellence, 3 Awards and 1 Certificate Mr Thumar said that besides, of Appreciation for R&D for a study done by Ernst and the year 2019-20. Besides, we Young instituted by Nationare giving 8 Awards for Exal Committee on Textiles and port Excellence for 2020-21.” Clothing also covered about He congratulated the award the Indian TEI in a chapter. winners for putting in great This study was partly funded efforts in the promotion of by the India-ITME Society. Mr Thumar congratulated exports and the development This study may also help In- Mr. Pratik Bachkaniwala, made in textile machinery to dian TEI in working closely the incoming Chairman and win the Awards. 20 TVC | Nov 2021

TEXTILE MACHINERY Citation of Export Excellence and R&DAwards

2019-20

he Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association Export Awards Scheme covers the following categories of Awards: 1. Apex Export Award 2. Segment Export Awards for each of the major sectors of the Textile Machinery Industry i.e. i. Textile Machinery Sector a. Apex Export Award: ii. Parts and Accessories Sector The Apex Award Winner is: iii. Textile Testing, Monitoring & Con- trolling Instruments Sector Kirloskar Toyota Textile Machinery Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore. Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Hisahiro Koketsu – Managing Director of the Company. b. Segment Export Awards: i. Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara Recipients of the Award is: Mr. Vikas Sharan – Director India Operations of the Company. 3. Special Export Awards: Category-wise The Association also presents Research and Development Awards for indigenous development of new technology/processes under different categories in the field of Textile Machinery Industry. 1. EXPORT EXCELLENCE AWARDS: The Association received 21 nominations for different categories of Export Excellence Awards, out of which 8 winners were declared. These nominations were evaluated by the Awards Committee of the Association and selected eight nominations as winners. TVC | Nov 2021 21

ii. For Parts & Accessories Sector: Winner of the Award is: Inspiron Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Recipient of the Award is: Abhijeet Kulkarni, representative of the Company. iii. For Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments Sector: Winner of the Award is: Premier Evolvics Pvt. Ltd., Recipient of the Award is: Coimbatore Mr.Sachin Patil representative of the Recipient of the Award is: Company. Mr. Sanjay Gandhi – Deputy iii. Parts and Accessories Sector: General Manager - Sales of the Com Winner of the Award is: pany Maksteel Wire Healds Pvt. Ltd., Va dodara Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Ramesh Bhai Sidhpura – Direc tor of the Company. iv. Small Scale Sector: Machinery Winner of the Award is: Weavet ech Engineers Ltd., Surat

Special Export Awards: i. Spinning Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Pune Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Prasanta Kumar Deka – Market Head India of the Company. ii. Processing Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Stovec Industries Ltd., Ahmedabad 22 TVC | Nov 2021

Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Vallabh Thumar - CMD of the Company. 2. RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT AWARDS: Four member companies sent nominations for 7 product R&D Awards. The Jury considered three nominations eligible for the Award for their R&D efforts during the year 2019-20. Whereas, 1 application received a Certificate of Appreciation for the product improvisation. The Award winner are: 1) InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad for their development of “Presser Finger Automatic Tucking-In for Auto Doffing Roving Frame” Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Abhijeet Kulkarni, representative of the Company. 2) Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore for their development of “Flat Tops Used in Carding Machine at Textile Spinning Mills” Recipient of the Award is: Mr. M. Sundaresan, Asst. General Manager – Product Development of the Company 3) Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore for their development of “Drawframe LDB3” Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Tharani Prabhu - Team Leader R&D of the Company 4) A Certificate of Appreciation Presented to Maksteel Wire Healds Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara for their development of “Twin Wire Healds with Oil Tempered Wire” Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Ramesh Bhai Sidhpura – Director of the Company. [Executive Director to request Office Bearers & Chief Guest to Felicitate]

Citation of Export Excellence and R&D Awards

2020-21

Similarly for the year 2020-21, the Association received 22 nominations for different categories of Export Excellence Awards out of which 7 applications were considered to be the winners. These nominations were evaluated by the Awards Committee of the Association and selected eight nominations as winners.

TVC | Nov 2021 23

ii. For Parts & Accessories Sector:

Winner of the Award is: Lakshmi Card Clothing Manufacturing Co. Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore

Recipient of the Award is:

Mr. N. Jagadeesan Asst. General

Manager – Exports of the Company.

c. Special Export Awards: v) Spinning Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Truetzschler India Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad

a. Apex Export Award:

The Apex Award Winner is:

Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Pune

Recipient of the Award is: -

Mr. Prasanta Kumar Deka – Market Head India of the Company.

Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Kashyap Bhavsar of the Company. vi) Processing Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Kusters Calico Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara Recipient of the Award is:

b. Segment Export Awards:

Mr. Sushil Verma Managing Director of the Company.

i. Machinery Sector:

Winner of the Award is: Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore vii) Parts and Accessories Sector: Winner of the Award is: Recipients of the Award is:

Mr. S. Saravanakumar – Manager -

Global Sales of the Company.

Inspiron Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad

Recipient of the Award is:

Mr. Naveen Aggarwal, representative of the Company.

viii) Small Scale Sector: Machinery

Winner of the Award is: Yamuna Machine Works Ltd., Mumbai

Recipient of the Award is:

Mr. Prashant Mangukia – Director of the

Company.

24 TVC | Nov 2021

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TEXTILE MACHINERY

ROADMAP FOR ATMANIRBHAR BHARAT IN TEXTILE MACHINERY MOOTED TVC Editorial Team

he Office Bearers of Textiles Machinery Manufactures Association (India), led by Mr. Vallabh Thumar, Chairman (CMD-Weavetech Group), Mr. Sachin Kumar-Executive Director, and foremost indigenous and foreign Textiles Machine Manufacturers had a hybrid interaction (Physical + Virtual) with the Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Mr Piyush Goyal and Hon’ble Minister for State for Textiles, Ms Darshana Vikram Jardosh on 22nd October 2021 to develop a facilitating Ecosystem for growth of the Textiles Engineering Industry (TEI) in India under Atmanirbhar Bharat India in order to (1) Compete globally in all industry segments on strength of technology and scale, (2) Initiatives towards Atmanirbhar Bharat: Meet 75% of domestic demand by 2026-27 and (3) Cost reduction for the textile manufacturers and enhancement of value exports. In this meeting 15 textile machines manufactures of foreign regions; 20 leading indigenous textile manufactures and 7 textile machinery and associated industry associations have participated and submitted their viewpoints. Mr Piyush Goyal urged the industry to focus on speed, skill and scale by getting into innovative partnerships and developing 100 Indian Textile Machinery Champions recognized across the world. Mr Piyush Goyal Ji also urged all to get out of Command-and-Control mindset and work through Plug and Play model to make the textile sector more vibrant in name and sprit. Alluding to achieving 100 crore vaccination and the Chandrayan-1 mission, Mr Piyush Goyal urged the industry to be inspired by the volumes in vaccination to scaleup while look at the precision in Indian space pro-

26 TVC | Nov 2021

gramme sector to bring the Mojo back. The Ministry of Textiles, Government of India being the Ministry of user industry of textile machines and with the aim to reduce the capital cost of our textiles and apparel manufactures is well aware that the machinery is the most critical input underlying the production and capacities of the whole textile value chain. However, there are various issues hindering manufacturing of textile machinery used particularly for weaving, knitting, processing, embroidery, garmenting and technical textiles sub-sectors benchmarked to international standards. Presently 75% of requirement of machinery is being imported and though we have certain strengths, domestic textile engineering industry is able to meet 25% of requirements. As such a number of measures with PLI and MITRA have been taken to expand the textile production and export which consequently would result in higher demand of technology and machinery. Kalam Institute of Health Technology (KIHT), Visakhapatnam (which has developed required infrastructure for manufacturing of medical devices in a limited time) after due consultations with all related stakeholders, has suggested manufacturing of critical components of the textiles machines as one of the interventions for promotions. These are at present being imported by our textiles machine manufactures. Hence, manufacturing of critical components needs critical support consideration since strengthening of the vertical would enable reducing costs while augmenting benchmark technology riding on possibilities of Make in India. This would contribute to value enhancement and employment generation. Efforts of strengthening machinery manufacturing would go a long way in our quest for sustainable textile ecosystem, enhancement of value exports of textile goods and contribute significantly to building an Atmanirbhar Bharat. Based on the submissions and inputs provided by the industry leaders during this interaction meeting, the Government would be able to further strengthen the ecosystem among the related ministries as well as related industry associations including IT Industry, machine tools and plastic industries for manufacturing of the textiles machinery which are currently being imported into the country. This would also help the Government to devise short term, medium term and long-term action plan in the direction of Atmanirbhar Bharat initiatives of our Hon’ble Prime Minister, Mr Narendra Modi.

TEXTILE MACHINERY

$2 bn Import Substitution Scope for TEI:Varun Sood TVC Editorial Team

n his Guest speech at the TMMA AGM, Mr Varun Sood, Vice President of Invest India, the National Investment Promotion and Facilitation Agency, promoted by the Central Government touched upon various topics and stressed the growing textile industry’s capability to scale new peaks in production and exports. He said that the growing textile industry currently valued at US$150 billion has provided much buoyancy to the textile machinery industry in India. Growth in the domestic market and potential export opportunities imply that textile machinery demand is steadily growing as well, both in India and the world. He revealed that there are about 3,250 companies involved in manufacturing of textile machineries, accessories and trading of the equipment in India. The industry not only caters to rising domestic demand but also has the potential to establish India as an export hub for textile machinery with spinning machines representing the largest export opportunity. “A major component of textile machinery industry in India thrives on the global partnerships that companies in India have forged with their global counterparts be it in Germany, Italy or Japan. 100% Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) is allowed through the automatic route in this segment which coupled with a supportive policy ecosystem, is keen on welcoming more investors to India and take advantage of its manufacturing competitiveness,” he said. Talking in detail about the textile machinery industry, Mr Sood said that “a US$2.5 billion textile machine industry which is growing at 5% currently reflects on the growing strength of this sub-segment in the textiles value chain in India. A strong textile engineering industry that can grow, compete, and export would be able to provide support to the rising Indian textile industry, adding

vibrancy and competitiveness. “As per the 60th Annual Report by the Textile Machinery Manufacturing Association (TMMA), the Asian region will account for more than 90 per cent of the total textile machinery market share, and in order to expand its technical horizons, many textile machine companies in the country are joining hands with their western counterparts to produce technologically advanced machines,” Mr Sood said. Speaking about the India Advantage, Mr Sood said that “production costs in China are rising at a faster rate than any other developing countries. Increase in manpower cost is a major factor which will impact the cost of machinery manufacturing as well. The hourly labour cost in China has almost quadrupled since 2000 and is further expected to increase in the near future. In addition to it, the demographic shifts in China will inhibit the labour force in coming years due to ageing population. In contrast, India has favorable demographics with a young population base with 65 per cent of its population below 35 years of age.” Talking on export potential, Mr Sood said that presence of textile industries in neighboring countries like Bangladesh pose tremendous export opportunities (~17 per cent export demand). India has signed bilateral and multilateral treaties with different countries that have consequentiality presence in textile manufacturing. Touching upon the India’s strong manufacturing competitiveness leading to import substitution, Mr Sood stated that India is a cost competitive manufacturing base for all types of products across the textile value chain. In 2020, Government of India announced Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Schemes for 13 key sectors for US$26 billion which will further boost the manufacturing ecosystem of the country providing the much-needed impetus to tap the US$2

TVC | Nov 2021 27

billion import substitution opportunity. He dwelt on the Government Schemes and Initiatives for the Capital Goods Sector as follows: Export Promotion Capital Goods Scheme - Under the Scheme, EPCG Authorizations are issued with actual user condition and import validity of 24 months to import capital goods (except those specified in negative list) for pre-production, production, and post-production at zero customs duty. Capital Goods Scheme - The DHI Capital Goods Scheme is a pilot scheme designed to support the industry to modernize domestic technologies Technology Acquisition Fund Programme - Funding is provided to explore opportunities for accelerated technology upgradation through acquiring technologies for specific projects and activities Indian Electrical Equipment Industry Mission Plan 2012-2022 - Vision 2022 for the Indian electrical equipment industry is to make India the country of choice for the production of electrical equipment and reach an output of USD 100 Bn by balancing exports and imports. National Capital Goods Policy 2016 - Aimed at increasing the production of capital goods from the 2014-15 value of approximately USD 31 Bn to USD 101 Bn by 2025 Central Manufacturing Technology Institute CMTI in association with Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Consortium (TMMC) and TMMA had undertaken the development of advanced technologies for high-speed shuttle-less looms under Department of Heavy Industries’ (DHI’) ‘Scheme for enhancement of global competitiveness of Indian Capital Goods sector’ in April 2015 Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles - The Textiles Committee is the statutory body for ensuring the quality of textiles and textile machinery. Capital Goods Sector Skill Council - DHI and Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FICCI) launched a Capital Goods Sector Skill Council in 2013 under the aegis of National Skill Development Council (NSDC), New Delhi. The objective was to develop skills of a new generation of workers which would match the expectations of the industry Custom Bonded Warehouse Scheme - The Central

28 TVC | Nov 2021

Board of Indirect Taxes (CBIC) is allowing import of raw materials and capital goods without payment of duty for manufacturing and other operations in a bonded manufacturing facility Opportunities in the Capital Goods Sector are due to 100 % FDI through Automatic Route; Industrial Licensing- no industrial license required (Free); Import Policy- No import license required; Expatriation Policy- Liberal work visa regime; Formation of Company- Company can be formed online; Corporate taxes 25%, Import duties maximum 10%, General Import duty 7.5%, GST 18%; Proximity to the customers and ASEAN countries; Excellent manpower availability as well as skilled workforce for R&D; ; With campaigns such as “Make in India” manufacturing sector is the prime focus sector of the government Besides other Government Schemes and Initiatives of the Ministry of Textiles, Mr Sood said that the upcoming Initiatives by the Ministry of Textiles to benefit machinery manufacturers included Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel Parks (MITRAs) – A dedicated textile machinery park could come up under the scheme which aims to attract large investment and employment generation in the sector to further boost domestic manufacturing and to create world class infrastructure with plug and play facilities. Mr Sood revealed that a Consultative Session was organized on 8 September 2021 by Ministry of Textiles with support from Invest India & TMMA to seek feedback on how to make India a leading Textile Machine Manufacturing destination.”The session witnessed participation from 40+ companies along officials from Ministry of Textiles, Office of the Textile Commissioner, Textiles Committee, Ministry of Heavy Industry, Ministry of Steel, Office of the Principal Scientific Adviser to the Government of India and Textiles Machine Manufacturers Association to hear out industry concerns and resolve ongoing issues, seek industry feedback on the current schemes pertaining to textile machinery and discuss the recommendations for implementation guidelines.”Invest India in collaboration with Textile Machinery Manufacturing Association launched the report Textile Machinery in India during the Consultative Session for making India a leading textile machinery manufacturing destination.”

TVC | Nov 2021 29

TEXTILE MACHINERY

SUSTAINABILITY, A MAJOR THEME AT INNOVATE 2021 TVC Editorial Team

nnovate 2021: Textile Innovation Week and the Innovate Summit, which has drawn to a close recently, has been hailed a great success by innovators, exhibitors and visitors across the globe. The event had around 60 exhibitors and over 100 live streams, 86% of which were exhibitor live streams. Exhibitors included Sun Chemical, DuPont, AFFOA, ITMA, Oerlikon, Velcro, Epson, Ricoh, Polygiene, Evonik, Kornit Digital and Roland DG. Ricoh announced its partnership with direct-to-garment (DTG) printing OEM specialist Aeoon Technologies at the event. The partnership, according to the companies, aims to bring solutions to the market that actively supports digital print service providers with modular growth strategies. It will allow Ricoh the opportunity to extend its DTG offering into higher productivity market segments and further demonstrate a focus on sustainability and cost-efficiency, Ricoh says.

Ink specialist Sun Chemical launched its Xennia® Pearl pigment inks for high-speed industrial applications at Innovate 2021. The range, which includes inks for both mid-viscosity and high-viscosity print heads, has been developed following a careful assessment of the market and specific customer needs, particularly the requirement for high fastness, multi-substrate compatibility, consistent colour, and outstanding print performance.

Sustainability A recurring theme throughout the textile & apparel industry, sustainability was a primary topic of conversation through the Summit. Delegates heard a keynote presentation from Xu Yingxin, Vice President, China National Textile & Apparel Council, on how China’s textile & apparel sector aims to mitigate climate change. For European policy, we heard from Dirk Vantyghem, 30 TVC | Nov 2021

Director General, Euratex, who discussed a new more sustainable framework for the European textile & apparel industry. On the third and final day of the event, a panel of materials specialists (for both man-made and natural fibres), hosted by Friedrich Weninger, Managing Director, Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress discussed the desperate need for enhanced sustainability in the fibres market arguing that this must come from putting differences and competition aside and collaborating.

Collaboration

Skills gap

Collaboration was discussed as a necessity for a more sustainable textile & apparel industry by many at the Summit. Not only that, but it’s also necessary for future innovation, too. For example, Leeds City Region in the UK and India are collaborating to ensure greater innovation throughout the textile & apparel industry, as well as in a bid to close the growing skills gap. What’s more, a fireside chat from supply chain technology company QIMA discussed how data and transparency are key to future-proofing supply chains but also, that supplier and buyer relationships are becoming more entrenched. The discussion concluded that we must work together to ensure our supply chains are streamlined and more able to handle disruption, such as that at the beginning of 2019, when the Covid pandemic broke out.

As well as part of addressing the need for collaboration, is collaborating to reduce the industry’s skills gap. The Summit showed that the skills gap is not just prevalent in the US and Europe as previously thought but is also a global issue, with large manufacturing nations such as India struggling to find the right skilled workers to meet the demands of the global textile & apparel industry. Every industry, from fibres to printing, is suffering from a skills gap. In particular, the nonwovens industry – as discussed in a panel session hosted by David Rousse, president, INDA, is struggling to recruit new talent. This is despite the boom in the nonwovens market, with the growth of medical applications for nonwovens and face masks since the outbreak of the pandemic. With the growing nearshoring trend across the industry, there is the worry that without action, there will be no-one to fulfil the roles, or spark innovation, in this movement.

Industry 4.0 Digitalisation, not surprisingly, was also a recurring theme. In particular, how Covid accelerated digitalisation was assessed (for example, in a panel session hosted by the ITMF and others) as well as how it can help in futureproofing supply chains by providing tools for authentication – as discussed by Ian Cronin, Community Curator at the World Economic Forum – transparency and traceability. It is thought that digitising processes and technologies is enabling the movement of manufacturing back to developed economies and although there was hope among speakers that this movement remains strong, it is appreciated that these markets cannot compete with the backward linkages and manpower of China. Additionally, digitalisation, it was discussed, can be leveraged to improve sustainability strategies and supply chain resilience (as mentioned by Joshua Hinkel, Partner, Bain & Company in a keynote presentation). However, digitalisation also means the industry requires a new set of skills.

Show sponsor Ricoh said during the show that the company was so happy that “[the WTiN] team will get an open invitation for Christmas dinner!” Friedrich Weninger, Managing Director of exhibitor Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress, said: “It is a great show and the potentials in terms of contacts one could explore are excellent.” Mike Wang, specialist at innovate exhibitor, Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF), said: “We heard great feedback from our exhibitors regarding how WTiN had invited diverse visitors from the technology industry to participate in this great exhibition. “Once again, thank you and we look forward to joining your wonderful event next time.” Mark Jarvis, Managing Director, WTiN, says: “Innovate 2021 has shown how fruitful and engaging live, virtual events can be. We are honoured to have had so many visitors to Innovate 2021 and, importantly, so many fantastic exhibitors and speakers who have helped to make the platform the rich, engaging space it is today. “This has made it clear that innovation is key for our industry to thrive – in all areas of the industry – and we plan to do that with Innovate going forward. We are excited for the next Innovate chapter, to be announced soon.” The event was sponsored by Ricoh and the Innovate Summit was sponsored by Epson. TVC | Nov 2021 31

32 TVC | Nov 2021

INTERVIEWS

Spectro LFP qb, a Cutting-edge Technology of Barbieri

Mr. Viktor Lazzeri Business Development Manager Barbieri

h ere are a number of challenges in obtaining accurate colour measurement data in digital textile printing. However, automated colour measurement devices can help to overcome these challenges. The Barbieri Spectro LFP qb textile edition is able to accurately measure textiles in digital textile printing. In a webinar recently, Barbieri discussed how to enable an accurate and stable linearisation and calibration process in digital textile printing and how to ensure colour accuracy through verification with automated colour measurement. Mr. Viktor Lazzeri is the Business Development Manager for Barbieri Electronic. Barbieri Electronic builds spectrophotometers for colour measurement in professional digital printing and is the colour measurement market leader for large format, flatbed and industrial printing. Viktor’s focus is expanding Barbieri’s international business into new markets, applications, and industries. He started at Barbieri in 2011, initially working as Supply Chain Manager. Later he took the role of the VP of Product and Innovation and also managed the operations of Barbieri North America Inc.

Mr. Viktor Lazzeri spoke to the Textile Value lowed, from automated measurements, to variable Chain in an exclusive interview. measurement apertures to offering backlit measurements. Today the Spectro LFP qb textile ediExcerpts: tion is the cutting-edge technology when it comes Textile Value Chain (TVC): In today’s textile to measure textiles and other materials in digital world of changing fashions, colour accuracy printing. plays a vital role. Give us a brief history of TVC: Where are your major markets for the Barbieri Electronic since its inception. various products? Viktor Lazzeri (VL): Barbieri Electronic was founded in 1983 in Brixen, a town in Northern Italy VL: Measurement technology is a key piece of by Mr. Siegfried Barbieri. From its roots building technology in various markets. Our Barbieri measdensitometers, the company switched in 1997 to urement devices are used in digital textile printing, the digital printing market by building one of the signage, label and packaging, flatbed, fine art and first spectrophotometers for measuring colour in industrial printing (for example ceramics, glass digital printing. Since then, many innovations fol- and other applications)

TVC | Nov 2021 33

Spectro LFP qb Textile Edition 2 TVC: What are the latest products and their salient features?

port centre in Taiwan and Shanghai. The contact details are available on our website.

VL: The Spectro LFP qb Textile Edition is the worldwide unique solution for automatic colour measuring in digital dye-sublimation and direct-to-garment printing. It is based on the Spectro LFP qb and has dedicated software and accessories who makes it possible to measure fully automatically and with highest precision and repeatability any kind of textiles and fabrics. The special holder fixes the textile firmly, the camera and according software detects the centre of each patch to be measured and the measurements will be done fully automatically – even if the chart is distorted! The measurement head can be detached for manual spot measurements and results sent to the computer. Two devices in one and automatic and spot measurements done with the same device which leads to a maximum accuracy.

TVC: Digital printing has made big strides in India. What is your strategy for this market?

TVC: How are you placed in the Asian market, especially the Indian market? VL: In the Indian market we work with our partner: Fortuna Colours & Prints LLP, Gurgaon or directly through manufacturers. The best way to reach out to us is directly via our website www. barbierielectronic. We do have a service and sup-

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VL: Our strategy over the past months and years has been to innovate and build the best, most intelligent colour measurement devices for digital printing. We know of many ongoing challenges in digital printing and want to support our customers to help them become top performers in digital printing. We work closely with manufacturers, software companies worldwide and local partners to be close to the customer and make sure our technology can be used to solve critical color challenges. TVC: Give us a view of your future plans and R&D efforts in colour measurement. VL: Our mission is to build Intelligent colour measurement technology for top performance in professional digital printing. That is why we are working with selected research partners across the globe to innovate and predict new trends and challenges. We will continue to work on new innovative solutions that make colour measurement as accurate as possible.

INTERVIEWS Textile Industry “Entering a More Mature Stage”

Dr Suranjana Gangopadhyay HOD, VJTI

r. Suranjana Gangopadhay was the First woman Head of Textile Department of Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute (VJTI) since its inception in 1887.VJTI started with only two Departments -- Textile and Mechanical Engineering. That time the institute was founded to provide trained manpower to the booming Textile Mills in Mumbai...that’s the reason VJTI started with Textile Department known as Ripon School of Textiles with Mechanical Engineering Department to supplement manpower for maintaining Textile Machinery.

Dr. Gangopadhay has a Ph. D. from the IIT Bombay, with M.Text from the MS University, Baroda and B.Tech from the University of Calcutta. She is a member in BIS Committees of TXD-14: Textile Machinery and Accessories Sectional Committee, TXD-01: Physical Methods of Tests Sectional Committee and TXD-31: Man-Made Fibres, Cotton and their Products Sectional Committee. Dr Gangopadhyay calls herself an ‘Accidental Textile Professor’… landed with Textile Technology while entering engineering education and then the uniqueness of the domain made her to “become extremely passionate; the reach of Textile Field encompasses between handloom-Handicraft to extremely high-end “Technical textiles”; which I enjoy from the perspective of both a Material Scientist and a Textile Technologist.” Dr Suranjana Gangopadhyay replies succinctly to some of the questions posed by the Textile Value Chain:

and “Mini Projects”.

Excerpts:

» Highlighting to them the rich heritage and facets of Artisan Knowledge and culture.

Explain your particular teaching strategy or technique that is helps you to teach.

» Highlighting to them scientific and textile domain knowledge application in mythology.

Always linking the content of the syllabus with relevant application in practical field which the students are familiar and excited about, e.g., » while teaching nuances of active wears, I mention about the famous adventure sports programme which students are familiar with. » while teaching nuances of Extreme weather clothing, I relate it to some famous scenes of Hollywood/ Bollywood movies. How will you encourage your students to be creative in the textile industry? » Always persuade/train them in giving customised and individualised lines of attack and resulting solutions for various scenario shared with them as part of “Case Studies”

Describe your work ethic. I think of myself as am a strategizing and goal oriented Professional with hawk-eyes on perfection and finishing. I believe, a good listener by being so can encourage a very meaningful yet guided communication not only in Textiles but in every field. If I have multiple projects in front of me, I handle completing them on time by Strategising, Multi-tasking and Delegating. What are your strengths as a professor and how do you measure success as a professor? Students feel their time spent with me adds some incremental values to their knowledge repository both in technical as well as other domains…ensuring a holistic growth of their personality.

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My measure of success as “friend, philosopher and guide” is when students always communicate to me about their professional and personal achievements and make a long-lasting relationship even when they have long graduated from my courses. What current trends are baffling to you? The trend of devising “so-called smart” strategies (which are actually self- fulfilling prophecy) to have stellar “scores” on the grade cards and not honing up on skillset helpful for their eventual professional journey by a section of students; when so much of useful non-proprietary resources are freely available around. Invariably it lands them in disaster in case they are forced to venture out in core sector where getting the degree is actually the beginning of an uphill journey. Do you think social media is beneficial to the textile industry? Yes; very good OPEN-SOURCE information and Audio-Visual contents are available in the Social media – judicious utilisation of which proved to be the boon for Textile Industry. What do you think about teamwork? ‘Team Work’ is the real elixir of reaching the next summit for Textile Fraternity like other walks of Life; gone are the days of working in isolation; it’s the era of “Collaboration & Team Work” to remain relevant and globally competitive. Being an educationist, your journey in industry life and interaction. My interactions with industry started early during my student days through my internship days in the then PSU of IPCL (Indian Petro Chemical Ltd.) Vadodara [ now a part of Reliance Industries] where I was very lucky to have stellar mentors who have shaped my professional journey more as a “Man Made Fibre Technologist”….in my professional life as ‘Educationist’ I am privileged to have close interaction and collaborations with industries like, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd. (KCPL)-India, ATE Enterprise Pvt. Ltd., SAURER India, Oerlikon India, TexPort Syndicate Pvt. Ltd., D’ Décor India Pvt. Ltd. to name a few. I am also closely associated with apex bodies like India ITME Society, ITAMMA, ITTA, FICCI, VDMA. As a Mentor, what qualities, capabilities you choose in your Ph.D. students? » Professional ethics and honesty. » Capability to think independently and strategise on the go. » Adequate domain knowledge. » Good command over language. » Focus How has the industry evolved in the last few years? Indian Textile industry is entering its more mature stage; ready to evolve from ‘Family Oriented’ to “Professionally Managed ones’ recognised the power of excellent domain knowledge blended with exposure on the ‘Techno-Economic’ facets of the human resources…the famed Elephant seems to have woken up to the dire need of investing on R&D segment for indigenous capacity building.

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What are the latest trends in the industry? » Adopting the nuances of automation in sync with the ‘Industry 4.0’. » Leveraging the power of e-commerce. » Investing on creation of ‘Brand Image’. » Moving towards more ‘Responsible Manufacturing/Engineering’. » Imbibing the concepts of ‘Circular Economy’ to its benefit. Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste management; how are they relevant and important? It’s just a talk of the town or any fruitful measures taken by industry? ‘SUSTAINABILITY’ is no more just a ‘BUZZWORD’ it has truly become the ‘Sustainable’ way of doing business…industry & manufacturers have to understand the TRUE Impact and adopt the concepts of ‘Sustainability’-Reduction of Carbon footprint and effective waste management to even remain in the business. Indian Textile industry is still taking its baby steps in this path….to create awareness and provide exposure to the BAT (Best Available Techniques) in the domain of ‘Sustainability’ in Textile industry, our Team has organised a one week Certificate course for various stake holders on the theme of ‘Sustainable Textiles: Production & Application’ in the month of December 2017; our UG-PG curriculum includes dedicated modules on the concepts of ‘Sustainability in Textile Manufacturing & Processing’ to ensure that graduates of Textile Courses from VJTI-Mumbai are well versed with the need and the latest techniques to ensure ‘Reduced impact’ on Mother Earth! How you personally adopted sustainability in your life? » By doing waste segregation religiously. » Adopting innovative ways of ‘Reuse & Upscaling’ of non-Biodegradable products I have come across. » By consuming & supporting indigenous products which are less damaging to environment. » Reducing Green House gas emission by optimising the use of air-conditioners. » Ensuring e-wastes do not land in ‘land fills’ but reach the recyclers. What is the key to success when communicating with the student? To make them feel I am respecting and valuing their precious ‘TIME’ & ‘ENTHUSIASM’ The young & fresh students are very keen observers; they inadvertently imitate any good practice they have observed in their ‘Teachers’…nowadays actually we have evolved from being ‘TEACHERS’ to more of ‘FACILITATORS’ who are unlocking the hidden potential in the students!!! The greatest challenge today for teachers is the very short span of attention and concentration of the students…mainly because of over exposure to digital environment. What message will you give to the new generation? ‘Hold on to your DREAMS; just believe that YOU CAN…Nothing is going to STOP you…That’s the Story of wo/ man…’lyric credit @ Loui Banks.

MACHINES &PROCESSES Picanol launches new “Connect” generation airjet & rapier weaving machines TVC Editorial Team

icanol has introduced its latest generation of airjet and rapier weaving machines, which have been called the “Connect” generation. These new generation weaving machines focus on connectivity and an increased level of data availability. With this new generation, Picanol is launching several new functionalities such as a digitalized Gripper stroke setting, Gripper tape monitoring, Climate control, Shed angle measurement, and fully integrated Power monitoring. “Following the successful launch of our digital platform PicConnect earlier this month, we have now released a new generation of weaving machines, which are known as the Connect generation. Our Connect generation weaving machines can provide the correct data and are loaded with new and never-before-seen functionalities. This is clear proof that for Picanol “Driven by Data” is not just a slogan but a commitment. Not only have these innovations allowed us to make big improvements when it comes to our four design principles – Smart Performance, Sustainability Inside, Intuitive Control, and, of course, Driven by Data – but when combined with our new digital platform they will allow you to amplify your own intuition.” comments Johan Verstraete, Vice President, Weaving Machines. From now on, the range of Picanol weaving machines will have the “Connect” suffix. For the airjet weaving machines, this means: OmniPlus-i Connect and TerryPlus-i Connect, while for the rapier weaving machines, this means: OptiMax-i Connect and TerryMax-i Connect. These new machines are built around Picanol’s four main design principles:

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Smart Performance On the OptiMax-i Connect, Picanol has introduced a lubrication monitoring sensor in combination with a temperature sensor. The combined data they provide allow the user to make sure the gripper tapes are in optimal condition for maximum performance. As an option, a gripper stroke measurement sensor is also available. This not only dramatically simplifies the setting of the gripper stroke, but also enables the user to realise higher machine speeds when weaving reduced widths – a pure extra output combined with more user-friendliness: a double win!

current and historical power consumption, temperature, humidity, material consumption, and – on the OmniPlus-i Connect – also the air consumption, can be monitored. The BlueTouch display is now also equipped with an Action centre, an electronic logbook where all actions such as maintenance interventions can be logged or scheduled beforehand. The machine manual is now available on the BlueTouch display, and with the context-based help function the help pages related to the operation the user wants to perform appear with one touch of his/her fingertip. The built-in web browser even allows the user even to consult, for example, tutorial videos on the web to guide them through a setting procedure.

Sustainability Inside Even though it was 25 years ago that the Sumo Drive concept was launched, it remains the most powerful, versatile and energy friendly machine drive available. And it has been even further optimised. It features an optimised sheet metal package for lower energy consumption, optimised oil cooling circuit for a better performance and a built-in temperature monitoring. Moreover, the Connect machines can be equipped with a Power monitoring module, which allows the user to keep track of the power consumption of each machine over time. Every Connect machine also has a built-in ambient temperature and humidity sensor, which will help to optimise the climate control in the weaving shed at the lowest cost. And as raw material is the biggest cost factor, each machine can also be equipped with raw material use monitoring.

Driven by Data As the machine has more sensors than ever before, it also generates more data. To enable a fast reaction to all these sensor data, the BlueBox control unit has been further optimised: better heat management guarantees short reaction cycles combined with the long lifetime of components. To have a good view of all of the data generated, a special sensor dashboard screen is available in the BlueTouch display: with a simple touch of the screen, the

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Intuitive Control The Connect generation was designed to focus on what really matters: weave the highest possible grade A fabrics at minimal costs. A large set of tools have been installed to facilitate this goal. One of the most remarkable ones is the Harness frame stroke measurement – until recently, it was only available on the revolutionary SmartShed, but it is now also available on the cambox and dobby machines. Combined with the shed visualisation and simulation, it offers a quantum leap in terms of optimising the user’s shed settings without losing any time or taking any risks. The colours of the programmable Smart signal lights with stop timing functionality are now repeated around the push buttons, allowing even better visibility and the prioritisation of interventions by the weaver. A full-fledged Access control system not only limits the access to certain pages and settings depending on the user, but also allows a tailored dashboard to be established for each user profile. It is also clear that in combination with the new digital platform PicConnect, the Connect machines will help you to jump immediately to the next level of weaving that we call “the era of intuitive weaving”. The Connect machines were introduced to Picanol’s worldwide customers via a virtual show. You can watch this virtual show at www.picanol.be/media/video.

MACHINES &PROCESSES

Stäubli at SITEX 2022 Surat International Textile Expo TVC Editorial Team

t SITEX 2022 Surat International Textile Expo in January 8 to 10, visitors to the Stäubli booth at No. 226 will learn about state-of-the-art machinery and system solutions for optimising workflows in the weaving mill. The range of Stäubli solutions begins with automation of weaving preparation and continues throughout a perfectly coordinated weaving process. Not only can these systems enhance the efficient performance of virtually any textile mill, Stäubli offers solutions that are perfectly adapted to the specific needs of each individual mill. Automated warp tying – TIEPRO is the new ‘must have’: Stäubli offers a complete range of warp tying (knotting) solutions for every type of yarn. From very fine to coarse yarns and PPT tapes, Stäubli has the solution for the perfect warp change. A recent development is the TIEPRO tying machine, which offers many unique advantages. The new separating concept uses spindle cones instead of separation needles, reducing the need for spare parts, and the unique double-end-detection feature with auto-reverse mode simplifies operation. TIEPRO automatically detects and corrects double ends before the yarn is cut, which makes for higher quality, faster processing, and easier operation. The machine does without an oil bath and provides high availability for multiple tying processes throughout the shift. These remarkable advantages make the TIEPRO tying machine the new ‘must have’ in any mill. For many visitors to SITEX, the machine will also be a ‘must see’ at Booth 226. While there, they can also learn more about complementary Stäubli machinery such as the SAFIR automatic drawing-in machines for efficient style changes, or shed forming solutions for any application.

Saree Jacquard weaving live at the Stäubli booth: Exclusively at the Stäubli booth at SITEX 2022, Jacquard weavers can observe a complete Jacquard installation featuring the latest Stäubli Jacquard machine in operation producing saree fabric in three design repeats with a weaving machine of

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S1692 cam motion 380cm reed width. Our latest Jacquard machine is equipped with the new NOEMI electronic architecture concept that provides reliable data transmission for hook selection even at high speeds. The new design offers easy maintenance for higher production output. With low-friction engineering and a special lifting mechanism, operation is highly efficient and energy efficient. Stäubli Jacquard machines feature many exclusive novelties that can be seen at the booth. High-speed frame weaving machinery answers market demands and fast-changing trends: Stäubli offers a large product portfolio of cam motions and electronic rotary dobbies for frame weaving with air-jet, water-jet, rapier, and projectile weaving machines. Visitors to the Stäubli booth will see examples from this range, e.g. the high-speed S1692 cam motion for rapier and air-jet weaving machines and the proven S3260 electronic rotary dobby for air-jet applications. Stäubli cam motions and rotary dobbies are ideally operated with the new maintenance-free e32 and e33 transmissions. This combination significantly improves the user-friendliness of frame weaving, reduces maintenance, and increases the profitability of the entire installation.

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Stäubli is a proven partner for Indian weavers Active in the Indian textile industry for over half a century, Stäubli is very familiar with the specifics and requirements of Indian weavers and the demands of their markets. To make sure customers get the most out of their machinery, the Stäubli team supports them with training programmes, technical support, and spare parts delivery even years after the original purchase. Stäubli offers not only machinery and systems, but solutions that allow weavers to enhance their high-quality productivity and profit from significant time savings. Stäubli provides innovative technological solutions in three dedicated fields of activity: Connectors, Robotics, and Textile. With a workforce of over 5,500, the company generates an annual turnover exceeding 1.3 billion Swiss francs. Founded in 1892, Stäubli is today an international Group with its head office in Pfäffikon, Switzerland. Stäubli is active on all major continents and manages 12 production sites. The Stäubli Group is present in 29 countries through its sales and customer service subsidiaries. The Group’s global network is completed by agents in 50 additional countries.

Air Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester 20 Denier to 300 Denier in S & Z twists for High end Seamless Knitting and Medical Bandages

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DENIM FUSION

AMALGAMATION OF DENIM WITH INDIAN CRAFTS & TEXTILES Maitri Gandhi NIFT Mumbai

Puja Nanda NIFT Mumbai

f we throw this question - is there a more versatile textile other than denim in history? There pops rarely any name, but denim! Ever since the discovery of this extraordinary woven textile, it has never gone out of fashion. The silhouettes might have taken drastic curves on the graph of trends, but the denim was never categorised as a fad. It is not only extremely versatile in terms of the number of garments, but all areas of fashion and culture around the world. It has the quality of blending with other fibres, fabrics and textiles very effortlessly. The twill weave fabric has certainly become the comfort food of fashion. From everyday wear to red carpet couture looks, it is widely accepted in forms, shapes, weights, weaves, blends, washes. Never in history is a textile so much experimented with and yet does not lose its identity. Today for example, if we see a denim kurti, we would call it denim before we could call it a kurti. The long list of Indian textiles gives so much scope for denim to create never-ending fresh styles if amalgamated. The simplicity of denim is a perfect contrast to our intrigue designs and motifs. Indian couture designers are known for experimenting with our textiles, embroideries, dyeing and printing techniques with different blends of denim so effortlessly that the first glance at it screams ‘denim can be desi also! ‘The whole concept of desi denim has evolved with time. The article is to shed light upon these fusions and understand where denim is heading along with Indian textiles together. Despite not being a piece of our nation’s customs and culture, a pair of blue denim pants has come to address numerous things in contemporary India. For some it’s a question of plain solace, a go-to article of clothing for when you’re venturing out; for other people, it’s an image of trust, of an advanced India where sexual orientation jobs are gradually dissolving into many shades of progress. For some purposes, it’s a characteristic of unscrupulousness and there are the individuals who trust it’s a nostalgic token of India’s prospering indigo economy. Throughout the long term, and all the more so as of late, India has opened up toward the west-

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Image source: Dikshakanna.in

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ern world and the tendency towards the western way of dressing – which has consistently continued in the nation and has developed dramatically. The shift towards denim has been seen because of different reasons, including the developing youth populace and mainstream society impact – a portion of the principal factors behind the nation’s design upheaval. Perhaps the greatest trigger for this change in patterns was the presentation of satellite digital TV in India in the mid-90s, which brought standard western amusement and news to India which fundamentally impacted the young people of the time most. As cell phones keep on penetrating further into more modest urban communities and towns, the country has progressively been presented toward the western world and this has introduced an adjustment of the two insights just as inclinations. This has most certainly made it advantageous for denim. I think the receptiveness to adjust to change among individuals comes more from the western culture, films, big names, web-based media forces to be reckoned with, and so forth Individuals need to look great and feel better. Denim’s utilisation as an all-climate and evergreen piece of attire for all (men, ladies and even kids) assisted it with standing out enough to be noticed and made an enormous market that had never occurred for some other garment prior. Online business and social media have drastically supported the development of denim in the country, particularly in coordinated classification. While the admittance to brands and limits has opened up another field for consumers, it has likewise been instrumental in furnishing brands with a vigorous stage that guarantees both openness and infiltration to distant areas. Online business organisations drove the best change in the retail business. In a hurry, shopping has turned into a well-known pattern; purchasers have simple admittance to an assortment of items online rather than

Image source: grazia.co.in

truly visiting a store. Organisations have been utilising online media stages as a special instrument as they are the most advantageous and least expensive method for correspondence. Denim is a high development class in the home-grown clothing market. The Indian denim market is displaying persistent development throughout the long term. With innovations, patterns and higher markets come, this area has promising development potential. Indeed, even in country areas, denim is turning out to be profoundly popular with most men and young person young ladies selecting denim wear over conventional outfits. So normally, the area is constrained to oblige an area of brands, each with its strength. This makes the denim market in India exceptionally cutthroat. In addition, the denim wear market in India is amazingly divided, which has additionally prompted expanded contests. India’s promising buyer environment in recent years has paved the way for probably the greatest brands in the denim world and their prosperity has consistently tempted others to investigate the changes in the more settled Indian waters. Right now, the Indian customers are at standard with their worldwide friends. They are much more advanced with their shopping decisions and are continually looking for curiosity in encounters. So,

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vative example making, someplace maintainability is gradually becoming equivalent to exemplary woven texture denim. More denim marks are tending to its natural effect (each pair utilises about 1,600 gallons of water) by bringing practical other options. New Delhi-based Korra, established by Shyam Sukhramani, Himanshu Shani, Rajesh Jaju and Mia Morikawa is another stunning illustration of our theme. Sukhramani uncovered “We utilise just crude denim which is unwashed and produced using natural cotton. Our strings are produced using 100% natural cotton and all the metalware is metal.”

Image source: thejeansblog.com

to oblige this insightful customer base, local brands are constrained to pay their game. Advancement is a compulsion by changing inclinations of consumers towards solace, brands have begun making inventive materials, remembering non-abrasiveness, weightlessness, stretchability, adaptability, solidness, and so forth. For a style that was the consequence of our developing interest with the West, denim has without a doubt penetrated the Indian market and shake things up in unbelievable ways. Overcoats, shirts, aircraft, saris— there’s nothing denim doesn’t offer. Specialists today are in any event, utilising denim as a material for their speciality, clearing the way for an entire age of youthful originators who are exploring different avenues regarding this texture in eco-accommodating, reasonable, and exceptional ways. Throughout the long term, denim has become seasonless and exceptionally flexible as far as its wearability and solace. With enormous improvements in innovation, denim is not any more limited to its toughness. Today a couple of denim can look tasteful with a touch of sheen, feel graceful to give you that quill contact feeling, can look tough however can be adaptable, can act like weaves and still look and wash like denim. The market today has been refreshed with progressive denim items regularly. During the time spent arrangement how native artworks of Indian and denim take part in an extramarital entanglement, it will be uncalled for to not begin by concentrating on youthful originators and brands who have accomplished amazing work that is interesting in its own sort. The denim 11.11 utilisations hand-spun Kala cotton, local to Kutch, and it needs barely anything to - practically no water to develop. The coarse texture is utilised to fix regular staples of any popular millennial’s closet: tunics, shirts, kurtas, jeans and dresses. A scope of native methods — Kalamkari, ajrakh, bandhani are utilised as embellishments. The textures are coloured with regular vegetable dyes. The current denim patterns don’t do without maintainability. Regardless of whether it is interwoven, upcycling old pants, inno-

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If we skirt these new present-day plan intercessions, at first denim was promoted with a blend of banjara create, that is the point at which the entire idea of melding denim with something Indian was conceived. Intensely weaved denim coats were the go-to boho looks of different Indian superstars. Swaroop by Swati Bhatia normally works on getting out Indian on denim. The plans have Indian folklore motivated canvases on denim coats, we could likewise see banjara weaving in her plan mediations. Architects across the globe and extraordinarily India use denim as a material to feature different sorts of craftsmanship. Surface embellishments are one of their cherished strategies. The number of weavings that would effortlessly this material is as per the following; Kantha, banjara, phulkari, reflect work, Sindhi taropa, zardozi. With regards to weavings and embellishments, something less investigated is the arrangements of the themes and craftsmanship. It is ideally dark burdens or pockets. As of late, however, we can see contemporary denim coats by Korra, where they play the entire outlines of coats

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community have experienced nightmare during this lockdown along with everyone else. They lost their livelihood, which will now take months to resume, unlike other corporate jobs. There are some dying crafts of India, which will be even more difficult to restrain now. But surprising the retail garment sector of fashion has not seen such a downward graph in the pandemic. People are shopping for jeans and t-shirts like they always used to. After identifying this gap within the fashion industry, we propose a solution to bridge this difference in the market demand of Indian textiles and crafts. For consumers, a pair of jeans will always be a pair of jeans that is their comfortable fit. Even after we add or subtract certain elements, the demand or consumer behaviour around it won’t change. Taking advantage of this market scenario, we could use fast fashion or retail brands in denim wear and convert them to be a little more sustainable by incorporating small portions of textiles from dying crafts. Taking the help of pattern making in the amalgamation of denim and Indian textiles would help us make Indian crafts more feasible for the masses. Small portions of the garment can be used to add swatches, such as back pockets on jeans, cuff details on a denim jacket, drop shoulder jackets with himroo sleeves. Creative Image source: grazia.co.in ways could be explored by patchwork. Due to the use of fewer textiles, ready-to-wear brands will not have to invest a lot, but artisans will get a commission in bulk. It’s time that all fashion producers take responsibility for and try different things with customary style denim pockIndian crafts being extinct and not only a few designers ets. to worry about it and create conscious denim collections. Creative pattern making is an altogether different and It is our collective responsibility and we must share it in novel plan of intercessions. Even though it is to a great extent investigated all around the world yet, how denim unfurls into Indian native outlines is something admirably interesting and new to the denim market of plan melange. Indian materials are utilised in an assortment of courses as far as situations and interwoven designs denim. Patchwork is a huge way of legitimising the word amalgamation, which is significantly noticeable even to a layman. Indian customary pieces of clothing like kalidar lehengas, choli pullover with zardozi, kurtas, saree amazingly, yet Indian architects have been inventive enough to drape different contemporary variants of half saree on denim. The brand urban drape is exceptionally roused by denim surfaces and tones. Every one of their sarees is propelled by a comparable idea. The join tie and colour, bandhani and so on cotton-based textures provide the saree with a look of denim, generally coloured in indigo. However, a visual combination of one’s surface into duping a texture using Indian dyeing techniques could be an intercession. To have different viewpoints of Indian textiles from denim’s perspective we tried to incorporate some issues that have become serious in this pandemic, and this amalgamation could probably bring out solutions. The artisan

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our ways. Denim is a textile that has given us the never-ending scope of experiment and it will take ages for us to run out of ideas while working with this versatile woven textile. Denim has been a part of all classes of fashion, be it couture, workwear, casual, etc. by amalgamating it with Indian handlooms and crafts we are presenting an opportunity for it to also be a part of the heritage group of fashion partially. Soon there will be a category of heritage denim that will be embellished with Parsi Gara and zari work. In this globalised period, the denim wear section in India, in the same way as other conventional item portions, is going through a shocking difference in insight just as advancement. With India’s extending economy, blasting utilisation, urbanising populace, and developing working class pay, denim wear has a gigantic potential and freedom to develop. Until a couple of years prior, denim was famous in the metropolitan urban communities just, nonetheless, it has now bit by bit become well known in the semi-metropolitan and country advertise too. Developing mindfulness and an expanding liking for Bibliography:

Image source: Pinterest

worldwide style have prompted this turn of events. Apparent shift towards western wear in the Tier - II, III and - IV business sectors is a key development driver of denim wear in India. A huge youth populace with rising extra cash and mindfulness towards design will catalyse the development of denim wear in the country. Denim is evergreen! It holds a splendid future in India in the years to come. Furthermore, we can barely comprehend its development once the lovely and rich specialities of India are fused. Yet, the rivalry is high in this area and development is an impulse. Brands and planners should continually enhance with innovation and the texture for solace, strength and manageability. Simple availability, assortment and keeping a serious valuing point is essential to be on top of brains. It is likewise basic for brands to concentrate on the developing business sector, changing shopper inclinations and designs and consolidate this knowledge when dealing with the bigger brand development system.

• Kedar Namrata, (2018) This denim jacket has journeyed in the hands of three Indian designers. Available at: https:// www.grazia.co.in/fashion/the-denim-jacket-has-journeyed-in-the-hands-of-three-indian-designers-3363.html (Accessed: 21 Sept 2021) • Cosmopolitan (2017) 6 Interesting Ways In Which You Can Wear Denim Available at: https://www.cosmopolitan.in/ amp/fashion/features/a18386/6-interesting-ways-which-you-can-wear-denim (Accessed: 21 Sept 2021) • • BLOG: Available at https://www.thefoxandthemermaid.com/blogs/blog/trending-embellished-denim?epik=dj0yJnU9QmNxaWFGVDR0Zm9acW1RVWh0RHJ4R2lXZzNvT2pqemwmcD0wJm49aW5zc1dyWGRjd1hRRDg1b2JtU2cyUSZ0PUFBQUFBR0ZLSFdr&utm_source=pinterest&utm_medium=social (Accessed on 22 Sept 2021) For visual ideation • Sean Paulami (2021) Tiger & Twig upcycles denim and gives them a new lease of life with embroidery and painting. Available at: https://www.indulgexpress.com/fashion/new-launches/2021/jul/30/tiger-twig-upcycles-denim-and-givesthem-a-new-lease-of-life-with-hand-painted-detailing-34967.html (Accessed: 23 Sept 2021) • Handloom Denim BLOG: Available at: https://handloomdenim.com/about-us/ Accessed: 23 Sept 2021 • Shukla Pankhuri (2018) 7 Indian Fashion Labels That Are Getting Creative With Denim Available at: https://homegrown.co.in/article/802943/7-indian-fashion-labels-that-are-getting-creative-with-denim (Accessed: 25 Sept 2021

46 TVC | Nov 2021

VISION To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close association with them offering complete Fabric & Apparels related solutions from design to delivery.

QUALITY POLICY KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum utilization of technology.

WHY KEN... Diverse product knowledge

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Product development & Sampling are undertaken commercially

Ability to deliver & commitment to excellence

Organizational strength & backup to execute large institutional orders

Understanding of Customer needs & ability to service institutional customers to apparels

Technically qualified & competent team to service the customer needs

Fabric Design & Development capability Organization with 800 Members Team

CORPORATE OFFICE +91 230 243 8538

9/621, Industrial Estate, Ichalkaranji- 416115, Maharashtra, INDIA.

office@kenindia.in

TVC | Nov 2021 47

FASHION FOCUS

How Festivals Influence Indian Fashion Industry TVC Editorial Team

48 TVC | Nov 2021

Image source: Strictly Indian Fashion

estivals in India are one of best time for fashion designers to express their creative and aesthetic concepts through the newest fashion trends as well as consumers’ purchasing behaviour. Festivals are based in culture and serve as a platform to celebrate various parts of life. They brighten our life with enthusiasm, happiness, and glitz. This is the time to savour precious moments with family and friends while also adopting the latest styles. In India, festivals do have an impact on our clothing choices and purchasing habits. All of the festivities are religious in nature. The beauty and significance of each tradition and heritage are embodied in its festivities. Being a part of Indian culture brings up a plethora of opportunities to participate in various celImage Source: Strand of silk ebrations. Each festival can be celebrated gloriously and grandiosely as a result of cultural These are the types of occasions that everyone diversity. Festivals have an impact on fashion wishes to commemorate in elegance and with since it is the greatest time to experiment with good looks. new concepts and styles. Festivals throughout India are about getting What is it about Indian festivities that dressed up in the contemporary fashion styles makes people choose traditional attire? with cultural links. Several festivals provide Indians have a profound respect for their tra- opportunities to try out new styles and trends. dition and place a high importance on their Baisakhi, Durga Puja, Diwali, Pongal, Eid, religious and cultural aspects. Wearing ethnic and a variety of other festivities are observed outfits in festivals is a manner of expressing in their traditional attire. It allows for experlove, respect, and admiration for one another, imentation and creativity in terms of clothing as well as respecting the old traditions that ideas. Festive attire is incredibly stylish and were passed down through generations since likely to attract people, whether purchased onthe dawn of time. Such garments create a line or from a shop. It alters the purchasing unique historic and cultural vibe, making each habits of Indian consumers. As festivities apperson feel proud while still seeming beautiful proach, clothing demand shifts dramatically, as festivals become one of the primary motiand stylish. In India, festivals inspire our choice of cloth- vators for purchasing apparel. The fashion ining and therefore purchasing habits, as we dustry is extremely bustling throughout this embrace traditional or ethnic outfits. The time since everybody is experimenting with most up-to-date women’s and men’s fashion different colours, jewellery, and ethnic options. is best presented near festive seasons. Festivities play an important part in the evolution of trends in fashion since fashion brands release their newest collections around the time of the celebrations. Festivals are an aspect of fashion, and they have an impact on future trends.

However, as time passes and fashion preferences change, comfortable ethnic attire has emerged as the preferred option. During such times, ethnic attire such as Salwar-kameez, kurtas, palazzos, dhoti pants, and sharara suits became fashionable. These current fashTVC | Nov 2021 49

ions may be found at in-store and online portals that offer fashionable styles as well as fantastic shopping offers. Everyone enjoys festival shopping since it is filled with the most up-to-date fashions for both men and women.

counts and promotions to boost revenue. Given the increasing revenue, festival fashion is amongst the most prominent topics throughout festival season. Festivals have a profound influence on the fashion industry in India, reIt is also time for fashion designers to show off shaping customer purchasing patterns, design their creativity with their festival collections. concepts, and purchasing strategies. They make clothing that is both fashionable and Conclusion comfy. It might be a runway collection shown During festival season, consumer purchasing in fashion shows, or exhibitions and shops set patterns change. Customers are more likely to up during festival season. In the weeks leading buy festive attire as a result of increased inup to Diwali and Durga puja, clothing brands vestment in textile market. One aspect that and designers hold small events in hotels to influences customer buying behaviour is urpromote their newest women’s latest fashions. banisation. Annually, a rising graph depicting Designers come up with unique festive dis- higher sales during the festivities appears in fashion industry. Furthermore, the accessibility of information on the internet has made everything much more transparent and has played a significant role in the shift in purchasing patterns. The ability to purchase a garment on the internet at a reasonable cost is one of the other factors driving the fashion transformation. Since traditional attire seems to be more comfortable, it became the most popular fashion trend in India during festivities. They are more occasion-based, yet they make a significant contribution to the fashion industry’s stats. “The ethnic wear market is also predicted to increase at 7.8%, to roughly US$30 billion in FY 2025, up from US$20.6 billion in FY 2020,” according to one of Indian Fashion Market’s June 2020 forecasts. Throughout the festive season, fashion picks up, and the fashion industry expands as more stylish festive garments are purchased. References: https://www.iknockfashion.com/how-do-festivals-influence-fashion-and-consumer-buying-patterns-in-india

Image Source: Pinterest

50 TVC | Nov 2021

https://www.textilemegastore.com/ blog-importance-of-traditional-indian-ethnic-wear-for-festivals

FASHION FOCUS Handloom Textiles of Odisha: History and Types By Somasree Roy

disha, despite having a smaller population than most other States, has India’s second largest weaver population. Odisha’s handloom variety is largely influenced by the State’s tribal communities, which is the third greatest in India. The State’s textiles represent its cultural identity, with exquisite weaves offering a unique identity. The lush and desired thread work, designs, and bright colours stand out in a crowd, make a clear fashion statement, and may be carried down through generations, creating a prized heritage. Odisha is famous for its silk ikat weaves, that are made using a complicated method called “bandha,” in which warp and weft threads are tie-dyed to form the motif on the loom as it is being woven. Lines of rudraksha beads, temple spires, animals and birds, fish, and seashells are common design elements. Tassar silk is produced in Sambalpur, Mayurbhanj, Nuapatna, and Berhampur and it has an unrivalled lustre, shine, and texture. The idols in the Jagannath Temple are dressed with a special silk cloth from Nuapatna in Cuttack district, which is embroidered with verses from the Gitagovinda. Other than sarees, the experts are skilled in the centuries-old technique of silkworm breeding and produce silk ties, scarfs, interiors, and garment fabrics. History of Odisha’s Handloom Weaving Handloom weaving in Odisha dates from 600 BC, as per the art historians. Lord Jagannath is associated with this art form’s heritage. White, black, yellow, and red are the four major colours utilised in keeping with tradition, with green being included subsequently. According to the Vedas and the Gods, these colours symbolise the past, present, and future. This is also possible that the Ikat silk art originated from a replica of far more older temple construction. The draping of garments is reflected in the human forms carved on the age-old temples. The locally distinctive handlooms, which are generally woven in cot-

ton and silk, feature a broad range of styles, colours, patterns, and symbols, including plants, birds, animals, temples, and geometric shapes, which together reflect the Odisha’s scenic beauty. According to legend, Jayadeva, a famous poet from the 12th century, presented Lord Jagannath with his ‘Gitagovinda’ in the form of fabrics. He had them woven in his hometown of Kenduli, where the ‘Gitagovinda’ verses were embroidered into the fabric. The King of Puri then gave an order for Gitagovinda materials to be supplied by Nuapatna (Tigiria). Several cotton materials are utilised in the everyday ceremonies of the deities, in addition to Gitagovinda Khandua patta (silk). Types of Handloom Textiles Sambalpuri Ikat: The sarees of Sambalpuri are among India’s most beautiful sarees. West Odisha produces these kinds of sarees, primarily in the areas of Sambalpur, Bargarh, Boudh, Balangir and Sonepur. The Sambalpuri Sarees are handwoven from every single thread. There are no machines employed in any of the procedures associated with weaving a saree; everything is done by hand. Sambalpuri fabrics include geometric designs, landscapes, portraits, as well as other patterns including sankha (shell), chakra (wheel), and a number of phula (flower), all of which represent the ‘baandha’ form of craft. Bomkai Silk: Bomkai, often referred as Sonepuri, is a unique textile woven on a pit loom that combines two of Odisha’s most famous textile elements. Bomkai is a pit loom technique that uses extra wefts. Ikat and embroidery have been woven together to create this piece. The pallus are usually defined by exquisite thread work and the borders are generally in different hues. The designs on the Bomkai saree are influenced by nature and tribal artwork, providing the saree a unique aesthetic look that is ideal

TVC | Nov 2021 51

Image source: unnatisilks.com

for royalty. Cotton and silk Bomkai sarees are offered. Bomkai is a handloom textile with an embedded GI tag which is also known as ‘Sonepuri’ material. It is produced by skilled craftsmen in Sonepur. Bomkai sarees are a must-have for any great saree collection, according to fashionistas. Berhampuri Paata: Berhampuri Saree or Berhampuri Patta, also referred as ‘Phoda Kumbha,’ is a GI product from Berhampur of Odisha, popularly called as the Silk City of India. Its distinguishing characteristic is that it includes a similar ‘joda’ for males. It is made using a 200-year-old traditional Odisha weaving technique. There are two types of temples or kumbha designs: phoda and badhi. The zari borders are quite stunning. They are traditionally worn during marriages and other auspicious events. Additional feature of this paata is that it is draped over Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra, and Devi Subhadra in the Jagannath temple of Puri. Khandua Paata: Khandua Sarees (Maniabandi or Kataki) date from the twelfth century and are devoted to Lord Jagannath of Puri temple, one among India’s holiest locations. The fabric draped in the bottom part of the body is referred to as ‘Khandua’ in Odia. It’s a classic hand-woven saree made with pure tussar yarns and woven using wooden looms. This is also known for its ikat (bandha). It is frequently worn by women at weddings.

52 TVC | Nov 2021

Kotpad cotton This fabric with a GI tag was made by the tribal people of Kotpad village in Koraput and is known for being coloured naturally. Colours are obtained from vegetables, with maroon and black being the most common dyes. The first GI tag was given to these Odisha sarees out of a group of many. Cotton sarees having solid borders and pata anchal are typically used for this. Cotton yarns, tussar silk, and aul (madder) tree roots, are used to create the luxurious textures. The Gitagovinda texts engraved on Khandua Paata are well-known. These colours come from sal trees and are usually red or orange in colour. Maniabandha and Cuttak are the origins of this textile, which is a recognised GI. The majority of Odisha (Orissa) handloom fabrics are woven in brilliant and vibrant hues. Synthetic colours have replaced vegetable dyes, and the earlier commands a premium wherever they are accessible. References: https://sambadenglish.com/make-a-style-statementwith-odishas-vibrant-weaves/ https://craftscollection.in/blogs/indian-art/history-of-weaving-in-odisha http://www.bhubaneswarbuzz.com/updates/travel-tourism/odisha-handlooms-international-fame

NEWS UPDATE

“Better Industrial Practices for Improved Productivity” by CTF TVC Editorial Team

he Centre for Textile Functions (CTF), is the known name for school of textiles at NMIMS Shirpur campus. This department has been offering technical support, consultancies, planning and coordination with government bodies and industry for establishment of Textile Parks and allied industries in the region, besides developing students to be industry ready through their academic programmes over the past 15 years. In view of rapid changes in managerial practices as well as technological developments in textile industry, it is crucial to develop the understanding and practices of shop floor supervisors (middle and lower management) to accomplish higher performance and to improve the organisation as a whole. In this context, CTF has taken an initiative by creating a platform of series of MDPs to develop this knowledge base and train practicing managers in order to deliver better performance in the industry. It is proposed to hold such sessions for entire value chain of textile manufacture by the name of “Better Industrial Practices for Improved Productivity”. Speakers from the industry and practicing professionals are invited to deliver talks in these programme and to provide participants with a deep understanding of the given area and to clarify their queries and doubts through a set of questionnaires collected from registering members at the time of registration. It helps achieving participants’ satisfaction on attending the session. The inaugural programme in this series was held on 30th October 2021 on the topic of “Airjet Loom Shed” covering deliberations on key factors governing productivity on the shop floor. The second one was organised on 30th November 2021 on “Yarns for Denim Manufacture”. The eminent speakers shared their industrial experiences on various important aspects of improving the productivity of denim manufacturing. NMIMS is in the process of preparing technical articles on those topics to be published in this column in coming months. This will help all readers to clarify their queries those who had missed the programme. Please feel free to email us with any further queries or clarifications to ctfmdp@gmail. com. The next MDP will be held on 22nd December 2021 on “ESG in Textile Processing”. Environmental & Social Governance (ESG) is the buzzing issue for this segment of the textile industry. The MDP is trying to address the same. Those who want to participate can register through the link given below: Registration link: https://forms.gle/oBQwaVb6ap9V7T6VA

TVC | Nov 2021 53

1800 - 889 - 6020 info@omaxcotspin.com

G IN

www.omaxcotspin.com

N IN G

R FA M IN G KN IT TI N G

SP IN N IN D

G FARM TO FASHION

54 TVC | Nov 2021

Sr. No. 842,843,845/1, Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA).

NEWS UPDATE

CanvaLoop: Creating Natural & Bio-degradable Fibre from Himalayan Hemp TVC Editorial Team

anvaLoop Fibre is an organisation dedicated to popularising sustainability in the textile and fashion industries by developing alternative fibre made from hemp as well as other agricultural residues. Fabrics are one of the most hazardous products on the earth, since both cotton and synthetic materials (polyester, nylon, etc.) have a significant

impact on the environment. For example, whenever we clean a synthetic fabric, 1900 microplastics are released into the water. CanvaLoop, a Gujarat-based natural material sciences company, established by Shreyans Kokra, helps clothing manufacturers become more responsible by offering plug-and-play agrowaste fibre and yarns. Their technology trans-

Image source: CanvaLoop

TVC | Nov 2021 55

forms the textile industry by generating fibres that are socially responsible, economically feasible, and easily accessible. Started by Shreyans Kokra, a fabric and fashion businessman, the CanvaLoop was able to construct the back-end of the hemp supply chain in India and now serves a worldwide B2B client base that is constantly seeking to improve the clothing industry’s co2 emissions and water consumption.

back Shreyans and the CanvaLoop team on their mission to mainstream sustainability in alternative materials and fibres – an important theme in the circular economy – and we are confident in their ability to introduce positive impact on climate change in the textile industry”. CanvaLoop Fibre Characteristics: Water-Saver

In comparison to cotton, which needs 9000 litres of water per kg, their fibre requires 10 litres of CanvaLoop now supplies hemp fibre (HempLoop), water per kg. agro-waste mixed yarns (Hemp, Banana, and Pineapple), and Himalayan Hemp denims (Slow Nature-friendly by Canvaloop) created from natural growing In the manufacture of the fibre, there are no pesHemp in the Himalayan regions of Uttarakhand ticides or insecticides used. and Himachal Pradesh to a variety of B2B and Biodegradability B2C customers. Natural plant fibres were used to make this “Our objective is to create ‘textile fibres utilisproduct. ing agro-waste’ the standard clothing material by 2030,” Shreyans Kokra, founder of Canvaloop Pollution-free says. “We’re creating a vertically integrated, Pollution is avoided because agri-waste is divertsustainable fashion firm powered by our unique ed to high-value uses rather than being burned. technology, with the goal of being in every closet Types of Fibres: by 2030,” he adds. • Hemploop Theia Ventures and Social Alpha have recently invested $200,000 in CanvaLoop fibre. In regard to the investment, Priya Shah (General Partner at Theia Ventures) says, “We are delighted to

HempLoop is made from non-GMO cannabis that has been cultivated organically all over the globe, along with the Himalayas. Characteristics: • Anti-UV - It shields your skin from the sun’s damaging rays. • Anti-Microbial - Helps in the prevention of skin infections. Prevents odour-causing microorganisms from growing on your clothes. • Breathable - It has a high air permeability. It also keeps odour and sweat at bay. • It Improves - Wearable, comfortable, and fashionable. • With each wash, it becomes softer.

Image source: CanvaLoop

56 TVC | Nov 2021

• Natural Fibre with the Highest Strength Tightens and strengthens the material. Hemp becomes an abrasion-resistant material as a result of this process.

• NettleLoop NettleLoop is made from Himalayan S t i n g ing Nettle that grows natural in the Himalayan mountains.

microorganisms from growing on your clothes. Breathable - It has a high level of air penetration. It also prevents odour and sweat. Types of Yarns:

Characteristics:

• HempLoop/Cotton blend

In the winters, it’s warm, and in the summers, it’s cold - The hollow nature of the fibre allows it to adjust to every season.

• HempLoop/Modal blend

Anti-Microbial - Defends against skin infections.

• Banloop /Cotton blend

Stops odour-causing germs from forming on clothing.

• Pineloop /Cotton blend

It improves over time - Wearable and t r e n d y . With each wash, it softens up.

• HempLoop/Bamboo blend • Banloop /Tencel (excel/lyocell) blend • Pineloop /Tencel (excel/lyocell) blend

Slow Jeans, a pair of sustainable jeans advertised as the “world’s first Himalayan hemp jeans,” has Nettleloop is only offered to a few brands who begun a Kickstarter campaign for the company’s are willing to commit to a long-term relationship. first consumer goods. • BanLoop Derived from the root of the banana plant, that otherwise would have been thrown, and turned into textile-grade fibres and yarns utilising 100 per cent environmen -tal-friendly technology. Characteristics: Anti-UV - Shields your body from the sun’s damaging radiation. Anti-Fungal - Sole fibre that organically resists the growth of fungi in fabrics. Breathable It has a high air penetra tion. It also keeps odour and sweat at bay. • Pineloop (To be launched in January 2022) Derived from pineapple leaves that would otherwise be thrown away, it i turned into textile-grade fibres and yarns with 100% green technology.

The start-up promotes the jeans’ sustainability and ethical impact in addition to their comfort and elegance. Slow Jeans claims that utilising rain-fed Himalayan hemp preserves 3,500 litres of water each pair of jeans. A factory that employs recycled water and organic indigo colours has also been paired with the firm. The jeans are also said to be 4 times more resilient than the ordinary pair of jeans, and they have inherent anti-microbial characteristics that stop the bacterial growth that cause odour. Slow Jeans debuts at a point when customers value sustainability and antimicrobial clothing. The company provides three different styles (regular, slim, and skinny) in three different colours (black, sky and indigo) worth $89. References: https://indiacsr.in/circular-economy-theia-ventures-and-social-alpha-investing-in-canvaloop-fibre/

https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-brands/slow-jeans-hemp-denim-kickstartPlant Silk - Silky-smooth and lustrous er-canvaloop-sheryans-kokra-antimicrobiAnti-bacterial - Skin problems are kept at bay al-249205/ with the use of this product. Stops odour-causing Characteristics:

TVC | Nov 2021 57

NEWS UPDATE

GSCS International Offers Certifications & Audits TVC Editorial Team

SCS International Ltd., a Bangladesh-based company with global footprint, offers steady, sustainable and enduring development as a provider of certification, assessment, audit, verification, inspection and

capacity building. GSCS aspires to be aligned with the world goal of sustainable development over the globe. Specializing in the areas of Product Certifications, Labor and Human Rights auditing, Circular Economy, Environmental Assessments and Management System Certifications, GSCS focuses on providing professional, impartial and objective services to organisations of all sizes, in all industries, in any ocation to help them manage their sustainable development. GSCS Internationals offers various services including Energy Assessment (EA), Environmental Social Impact Assessment (ESIA), Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA), Social Impact Assessment (SIA), Responsible Down standard (RDS), Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), Organic Content Standard (OCS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), Code of Conduct Audit (CoC), ISO 28000- Specification for Security Management System for the Supply Chain, ISO 27001- Security TechniquesInformation Management Systems, ISO 14001- Environment Management System, Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point (HACCP), Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP), etc. GSCS International Ltd. is an APSCA full member firm with a group of Certified Social Compliance Auditor to ensure that appropriate time spent on site to competently achieve sufficient evidential matter. Appropriate time is a function of many factors, including but not limited to the number of workers and physical size of the facility. Industry standard practice indicates that effective consideration would generally require a mini- mum of one auditor day on site for small facilities (e.g. less than 100 workers), whereas for larger facilities with more workers, two or more auditor days will be required, incrementally, based on the number of workers and the physical size of the facility. GSCS providers quality assurance services in Bangladesh, Myanmar and Ethiopia for variety of customers covering incoming control or Material Inspection, Pre-production control (On-site size set checking and PP meeting), Sample picking, Layout and First output quality checking, In line Inspection (DP) and Final Random Inspection (FRI). Our quality engineers are having 10 to15 years inspection and Quality controlling experience in 3rd party, buying office and multi-national factories. 58 TVC | Nov 2021

TVC | Nov 2021 59

POST-EVENT REPORT

Over 20,000 visitors at HGH India 2021 TVC Editorial Team

GH India 2021 closed its 10th annual edition with a successful turnout of 20,300 visitors from 460 cities and towns across India and 300 direct and indirect exhibitors from 19 countries. This 4-day trade show held at Greater Noida, UP was focussed on home textiles, home décor, houseware and gifts segments with a special focus on World of Sleep (Sleep Technology), Small Furniture, Smart Cooking and Swachh Bharat. HGH India 2021 was inaugurated by Mr. U.P. Singh, Secretary Textiles, Government of India, with Mr. Shantmanu, Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) and Mr. Narendra Bhooshan, CEO, Greater Noida Industrial Development Authority, Govt. of Uttar Pradesh, as the Guests of Honour. The show was supported by Development Commissioner Handicrafts, Mistry of Textiles, Ministry of MSME and the Government of Uttar Pradesh. Mr. Arun Roongta, Managing Director, HGH India said, “We are elated to have hosted our 10th edition in Greater Noida this time around. There were over 20,000 visitors from around 460 cities and towns all over India. All our exhibitors saw great response in terms of business- actual and potential. I think this edition has been a great experience, after the lockdown when the industry was looking at coming together, sharing views and re-establishing businesses with a new energy. We had all the top retailers and distributors in the home industry and they expressed great satisfaction with the kind of innovations brought in by the exhibitors. Agenda 2021, which was to bring the industry back on track, has certainly helped in filling that gap of demand and supply in the home business in home textiles, home decor, houseware and gifts segments. It was indeed a very encouraging and heartwarming edition of HGH India which marked the 10th anniversary of the show.” After a successful debut at India Expo Centre, Greater Noida, Delhi NCR, the next edition, HGH India 2022 will continue on the growth path at the same venue, with a bigger and better eleventh edition. HGH India 2022 is scheduled for July 12-15, 2022 and will have several new features for the ever-evolving Indian home market. It will offer business opportunity for brands and manufacturers and enable them to present their innovations and new collections to their channel partners and institutional buyers in the Indian market. Special focus will be on - World of Sleep, Home Furniture, Small Kitchen, Wall and Windows and Kid’s Home.

60 TVC | Nov 2021

MARKET UPDATE Unit: USD Millions India - Man Made Fiber EXPORTS Product

Oct-20

Oct-21

Jan-Oct 2020 Jan-Oct 2021

% Change

POLYESTER Staple Fibre

18.87

29.23

195.39

328.26

68.00

Filament Yarn 46.84

71.33

404.95

665.92

64.44

4.43

-77.68

22.52

46.71

ACRYLIC Staple Fibre

2.27

0.01

19.85 NYLON

Filament Yarn 1.98

2.18

15.35 VISCOSE

Staple Fibre

7.26

8.31

93.55

153.57

64.16

Filament Yarn 2.55

3.32

19.18

29.25

52.50

Jan-Oct2021

% Change

IMPORTS Commodity

Oct-20

Oct 2021

Jan-Oct 2020

POLYESTER Staple Fibre

7.03

Filament Yarn 5.76

9.47

65.41

84.22

28.76

11.97

55.23

110.54

100.14

74.1

64.70

18.59

56.35

ACRYLIC Staple Fibre

2.74

4.54

44.99 NYLON

Filament Yarn 1.81

1.61

11.89 VISCOSE

Staple Fibre

8.51

Filament Yarn 12.55

16.68

89.13

135.31

51.81

30.63

85.56

177.12

107.01

Source: Ministry of Commerce and Industry

TVC | Nov 2021 61

SHOW CALENDAR January 2022

February 2022

5th - 11th Dallas Total Home & Gift 2nd - 4th Revolver Fashion Trade Show Market 2022 2022 Dallas, United States Of Denmark, Europe America https://revolver.dk/ https://dallasmarketcenter.com/ markets/markets.aspx?m=1242 2nd - 3rd Milano Unica 2022 6th - 8th YFA Show Fiera Milano, Rho, Italy Bhilwara, India https://www.milanounica.it/en http://www.yfatradeshow.com/ 3rd - 5th YFA Show 8th Technical Textile by TITSC Panipat, India Coimbatore, India http://www.yfatradeshow.com/ titsc.techtex@gmail.com 9th - 11th Istanbul Fashion Connection Istanbul, Turkey 8th - 10th SITEX https://www.ifco.com.tr/ Surat, India https://sitex.sgcci.in 24th - 26th YARN FAIR 11th - 12th The London Textile Fair 2022 Istanbul, Turkey London, UK https://iplikfuari.com/en/ https://www.thelondontextile fair.co.uk/ MARCH 2022 12th TVC Conference Bhiwandi, Mumbai www.textilevaluechain.in

4th - 6th F&A / ASF Bangalore, India https://www.fnashow.in

12th - 15th JUNIOSHOW 2022 Bursa, Turkey https://junioshow.com/en/

APRIL 2022 27th- 30th CISMA 2022 Shanghai , China https://en.cisma.com.cn/

15th - 17th Tex-Stil 2022 Denmark, Europe https://www.textileinstitute. org/event/tex-stil-2022/ 26th - 28th PromoTex Expo 2022 15th - 18th Expo Riva Schuh 2022 Germany, Europe Italy, Europe https://www.expobeds.com/ https://exporivaschuh.it/en event/promotex-expo 21st - 23rd Dye Chem World MAY 2022 Tirupur, India https://www.textileexcellence. 16th - 18th SGI DUBAI 2022 com/dyechem-knitprocess-exhi Dubai , UAE bition/ https://www.signmiddleeast.

com/

29th Technical textile by TAI Vapi, Gujarat https://textileassociationindia. org 62 TVC | Nov 2021

HGH TREND BOOK

Trends 2021-22 TVC Editorial Team Onwards RESET TOGETHER HGH India 2021 brings “Onwards, RESET TOGETHER!” Trends for the year 2021-22, a comprehensive curation of evolving colours, designs and materials. This trend book will act as a go to guide to draw a clear inspiration for your new collections in the upcoming season. In this trend book, Indian market trends for the year 202122, applicable across home categories- home textiles, home décor, houseware & gifts are deciphered into four groupsHome & Roots, Good Vibes On, Greenfluencer and Golden Hours. India is the youngest economy in the world with 65% of population below 35 years of age. The highly positive Indian consumer is educated, extrovert, technology savvy, financially affluent and influenced by high international and social media exposure, demand a balance of modern and ethnic products. With an expected GDP growth of 11% in 2021, India is heading for a V shaped recovery post pandemic and emerging stronger on the global map. The Indian consumers have embraced new stay-at-home trends and are progressively upgrading their homes as they look at it as a safe haven. This Trend book reflects the influence of recent social, lifestyle and technological advancements on home products market in 2021-22. Manufacturers, brands, retailers

and professionals in the home business will find this trend book handy to innovate their products and designs, in order to appeal to the aspirational Indian consumers.

RESET TOGETHER! Our family and home are our sound basis, our safe haven; home has become even more than ever a holy site where nothing adverse should be allowed in. It provides us with the strength needed for everyday life. Going outdoors means increasingly taking care of us and taking care of others. We need better cities and we contribute taking care of our surroundings, respecting nature - the well of the most needed things in our life, clean water, fresh food and a beautiful place for mental refreshment for us all. Separating waste is just one hit. Leaving no waste behind means, nature and cities should be like our minds: pure and clean. Take a fresh look at your home! Make yourself comfortable. Today, home is the place of good ideas, brilliant inventions and new starts! Organize a place for working, thinking and retreat, another place for the family to be happy, a place for cooking and gathering and a place for sleeping, resting, luxury and leisure. Take nature home, as much as possible – be it small gardening at home, be it just relaxation for your eyes!

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HOME & ROOTS

continuity are more than ever their greatest challenges.

Last year, during lockdown, the otherwise polluted air became suddenly so clean, that the dark blue sky could be appreciated in all its beauty. The amazed residents of Delhi were able to count the stars at night.

Home settings are welcoming, feminine and courageous, embracing the new empowerment of women, turning over ancient beliefs and systems through humour and honesty in a modern, retro and experimental way. Vibrant, warm, colourful products and gadgets are breathing leisure time and comfort. Aqua Green, Aruba Blue, Sunlight Cream, Persimmon Pink, are soft and lively colours, contrasting with Liquorice Black, Coriander and Old Gold.

Spending forcefully more time at home makes self-care and wellbeing relevant on all levels. Indispensable settings are a comfortable place for home-office and a high-performance bed for a restful sleep. Health-food and yoga provide focus to a greater extent on the everyday objects around us. The colour-palette is grounded, down to earth; nuances often result through the material itself: Ethnic-Blue, Deep Blue, soft Olive-Green or Sandshell-White. When you stay at home, an easy going and practical lifestyle takes over. Bathrooms and kitchen are provided with natural stones and terrazzo patterns; cooking is done with time-saving gadgets and wooden items; eating is celebrated with nice-to-look-at everyday pottery and some antiques are cared for warmly – for instance grandma`s old pots.

GOOD VIBES ON What is right or wrong? Separation of people, todays difficulty of gathering, caring about vulnerable family members, splitting opinions, fake information, disruption of

Working places are perfectly fit and inspiring to study new topics and do home-office; furniture is cosy and comfortable in light colourful combinations. Multicolour kitchens in pastel shades, invite to cook and try out new recipes with the help of fancy kitchen utensils! Waste bins in different options and colours are offering to separate waste and take care of the environment.

GREENFLUENCER During lockdown in Jalandhar, the air was so clear that people could see the Dhauladhar mountains. Nature is literally returning to us. We understand that we are the main cause of pollution. The world is shifting towards green and slow living. There is a deep longing for nature, a day out in a fairy-tale countryside landscape, enjoying a

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romantic picknick or some hiking holidays in genuine na- GOLDEN HOURS ture with lakes, rivers and mountains. Home-gardening is The way we spend our money casts a vote for the world also an option! we wish for. The eye rests on golden patina shapes, natuGreen Living provides an effective measure against global ral sober hues and lustrous shiny colours of high-end mowarming; choices for a greener and lighter living are pos- saics. Smoked-Pearl or Moonstruck-Greys are combined sible with new materials, less logistical costs and new vi- with Gold and Fayence-Blue, as well as Crushed-Violet sions of consuming. Buying utilities in small neighbourhood and Java-Black. Difficult jobs in home-office are easier to be accomplished in a luxurious, cosy surrounding. A bathshops is a green service to the region, too. room with spa-qualities allows regeneration and relaxing The choice of hues, Apricot and Saffron, Basil, Mint-Green, in opulence. Jasper-Blue and Castlerock-Grey reflects the bittersweet yearning for a green feeling. “Cottage-core” is booming. With an increasingly sedentary lifestyle, health and fitMacramé, basketry and wood, nice plants and cosy furniture ness become vital topics. They are sustainably mastered in the living-room enhance the resort-feeling. Photographic through indicated health-food programs and sportive acwallpaper showing landscapes or nature topics take trav- tivities provided by digital fitness-clubs with aid of wrist el sensations home. A bathroom decorated with stone and watches and other fitness gadgets. Feeling safe in a howoods displays yoga-resort functionality. We buy recycled tel-like surrounding allows us to retreat from the outer glass and focus on reusable items of lasting quality. Kitchen world. Eating outdoors may not be wanted, so home cookis not just for cooking! Eating healthy and consciously has ing is absolute high-end in a technically perfected kitchalready become an online favourite. Cooking-photography en, modern and elegant under highest hygiene standards and posting is in. Kitchen appliances and cookware are the – with technical gadgets in carefully arranged storage sysnew online-stars requiring homey and photogenic cuisines tems. Eyecatchers are retro water-boilers or fridges, bold whisky glasses and golden kitchen equipment. for sitting, staying and displaying.

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November 2021

Articles inside

Over 20,000 visitors at HGH India 2021

Handloom Textiles of Odisha: History and Types

Spectro LFP qb, a Cutting-edge Technology of Barbieri

Textile Industry “Entering a More Mature Stage”

Picanol launches new “Connect” generation airjet & rapier weaving machines

How Festivals Influence Indian Fashion

Military Textiles: The Scope and Future

ROADMAP FOR ATMANIRBHAR BHARAT IN TEXTILE MACHINERY MOOTED

India’s Exports of Technical Textiles Witnessed a Hike

$2 bn Import Substitution Scope for TEI: Varun Sood