May 2020 issue

₹-

2

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

CONTENT

May

2020

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE Pg 5 Processing of orange fibres in textile industries COVID 19 IMPACTS Pg 7

Nonwovens in medical textiles

Pg 13 Global and Domestic Market Pg 18 Treatment of medical and Meditex waste SWOT ANALYSIS Pg 20 New Normal India EXPERT ARTICLE Pg 24 Reverberations of on-going covid19 impact Pg 25 Look good and feel safe Pg 28 Testing the quality of face mask Pg 31 Corona positive... a blessing!!!

INTERN ARTICLE Pg 23 The people who make our clothes

Pg 49 Yarn report Pg 50 Surat Report NEWS

Pg 43 Marketing psychology in changing time

Pg 32 BATA INDIA

Pg 44 Does social media influence the buying behaviour?

Pg 36 ZUMO Pg 45 LithuanianFashion Week

COMPANY STARTUP

FASHION VALUE CHAIN

Pg 33 Karana to make reusable mask acquiring comfort and breathability

Pg 52 Fashion Value Chain Intro

INTERVIEW

Pg 54 World rampant - fashion industry awakens

Pg 34 Impacton the companies

Pg 56 Luxury brands response

Pg 37 Medical textiles manufacturers

Pg 58 SVT college competition

Pg 53 Indian designers are mitigating the economic pain

MARKET REPORT Pg 46 Cotton Report Pg 48 Face Mask Report

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Associate Editor

Mr. Swaminathan Traineewww.textilevaluechain.in Editor

MaySatopay 2020 Ms. Ayman

OWNER, PUBLISHER, PRINTER AND EDITOR MS. JIGNA SHAH Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co.

189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

3

EDITORTIAL

COVID IS THE REASON FOR MACRO/OUTER TO MICRO/ INNER JOURNEY “It is our attitude at the beinning of a diffcult task Which, More than anything else, Will affect its Successful outcome” - William James

COVID 19, will be a common noun in English Dictionary soon. The last 3 months world only moving around this word. COVID 19/ Corona Virus is developed by the factory or natural that is not the concern now… as time has already flown and the economy of the world is already a stack. A Virus has evolved and revolved the world which is much needed. Macro-level, the Global world now becomes the local world, globalization to localization journey is individual adapting. Micro-Level, Outer world to inner world journey. People always run behind material aspects of life whether a beautifying body, the body will be waste once soul departs, collecting material things which all are unimportant after basic life. Outer world connection, Fake life, artificial life, social media lifeworld enjoying but the inner world of the individual is empty and searching for truth and real life.

This pandemic is given the massage for Social distancing rather physical distancing, which anyways we had earlier, but to showcase in our Social media live, the physical gathering was clicked with no meaningful Socialising. This pandemic showed the face of our true self if inner journey has been traveled in a true sense at peace, soul searching journey.

New world inviting us to embrace new normal as work from home in a relaxed manner, increase productivity, physical traveling not necessary for productive work, Virtual world is the reality of life.

Medical textile which was ignored by Indians, Indian being an opportunist and fairly technical savvy, developed PPE kit so fast as it was never much technical engineering required, nonwoven fabrics with a medical finish made the garment like any other apparel. PPE coverall is called a cover not garment as it’s not breathable and uncomfortable to wear direct after skin.

Next innovation needs to be non woven direct after skin. Use and throw garments but the environment , recycling, waste management will be important aspect need to work on as safe and biodegradable disposable waste should also be new normal.

This issue focusing on medical textile and COVID 19 impact on the world. Review and share your feedback.

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

4

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

PROCESSING OF ORANGE FIBRES IN TEXTILE INDUSTRIES DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES)

SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

N

owadays a lot of research going on about a better alternative to cotton. So more focus is on making Fibres out of the waste collected which leads to the Innovation and Sustainable Process. Salvatore Ferragamo is the first fashion house to employ Orange Fiber fabrics. This much-anticipated collaboration is born of a shared passion for creative innovation, sustainable design, and their beloved heritage of Italian excellence. They are committed to bringing sustainable practices to the fashion industry, shaping a new concept of luxury 3.0. The contemporary way to construct an ethical and sustainable lifestyle, that looks further than status and consider the future – most importantly, the future of our world.

Second, to oil, fashion is the most polluting industry in the world. Each stage in a garment’s life threatens our planet’s resources: It can take more than 20,000 liters of water to produce just 1kg of cotton, which is only equivalent to a pair of jeans and a t-shirt. In the process of transforming raw materials into clothes, up to 8,000 different chemicals are used. Fashion needs to adopt a sustainable and ethical business model, where the environmental and human costs are considered as important as profit. The key is to restart the fashion industry to take our world beyond the next season.

In Italy, the citrus industry discards one million tonnes of citrus fruit peels annually. While the peels are of course biodegradable, it still

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

costs a lot of money to dispose of them properly. The start-up Orange Fiber, run by Adriana Santanocito and Enrica Arena, has developed a new kind of fabric, which is entirely made of waste citrus fruit peels.

The idea came to Santanocito while working on her thesis in fashion design. Since Sicily, where she is from, is responsible for a major amount of peels, she tried to think of a way to reduce the amount of waste. And thus the idea to make fabric from the discarded peels was born.

Manufacturing Process ; The peels are processed with a patented method to extract the cellulose that is spun to form the final yarn. The fiber is made through a process they innovated, in collaboration with Politecnico di Milano University. In their pilot plant in Sicily, the pastazzo (citrus juice by-product) is processed to extract the citrus cellulose, which is then sent to a partner in Spain to be spun into yarn. The yarn then returns to Italy, to the fabric producer in Como, where the exclusive fabrics are ready to be used by the fashion brands worldwide. This process has the potential to transform the 700,000 tonnes of pastazzo produced annually by the Italian citrus processing industry into high-quality fabrics.Orange Fiber, which now has a team of 12 people, operates from a local juice-processing plant, where it gets its waste material for free.

The business is partially seasonal,

operating during the months of the year when the juice-maker works.

But once the orange rind has been transformed into cellulose, it can be put in storage for use later.

The 39-year-old found her answer in the university’s labs, and it earned her a patent.

It was already known that cellulose could be extracted from orange rinds. But Ms. Santonocito discovered that using chemical reagents, it could then be turned into yarn, which could be dyed and blended with other textiles, such as cotton or polyester.

Together with her university colleague Enrica Arena, she founded Orange Fiber in 2014, and set about selling the silk-like material to clothes-makers.

The productive process patented

by Orange Fiber gives new life to the pastazzo, technical term to define what remains of the citrus fruits after squeezing. The wet citrus residual, pastazzo, is processed to be able to extract the cellulose that will form the final yarn. Cellulose is extracted from the leftovers that would normally be discarded after pressing an orange and then treated with a special process. A biodegradable material like silk is produced: soft to the touch and shiny appearance, suitable to be woven with any type of existing yarn. Inside are also positioned, with the aid of nanotechnologies, essential oils in the form of capsules that dissolve in contact with the skin, smoothening.

Wearing products made out of Or-

5

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE ange Fiber is like wearing a vitamin cream; it’s nourishing for the skin, and the effects are guaranteed for twenty washes, for now. Three prototypes are obtained from the fray with citrus fruits yarn: a lace silk black and white, a Duchesse, colorneutral between white and cream, similar to that which can be used for the summer jackets or cocktail dresses, and fabric like viscose, very slight is indicated for the daily use, to be assembled with shirts and summer clothes. The new vitaminenriched textile would represent a brand new opportunity especially for Italian tradition in high-quality textiles and fashion.

Like Orange Fiber, the researchers obtain the raw materials they need from local juice makers. They wash the rinds to remove the bitter flavor, then dry, process, and whiten what remains.

Properties of Orange Fibres ; Orange Fiber is the first patented material made from citrus juice by-products. The citrus cellulose yarn can be used purely to create 100% citrus, biodegradable fabric that feels soft, silky, and lightweight.

It can also be blended with other materials and be opaque or shiny according to the designer’s needs The fabric looks and feels like silk: soft to the touch and a shiny appearance. The biodegradable yarn can be spun with any type of existing yarn.

Aside from looking pretty and feeling nice, the orange yarn has an additional benefit Thanks to nanotechnology, the material still contains essential oils and vitamin C that are present in the citrus fruit peel. The skin absorbs these oils and is nourished by them, making the fabric a wearable body cream. According to Orange Fiber,

6

despite the oils, the fabric does not feel greasy. The oils are guaranteed to last at least twenty washing cycles, but the company is experimenting with recharging methods with special fabric softeners.

The company made three prototype fabrics. One is lace silk in black and white, the second a cream coloured satin from which clothes such as summer dresses can be made, and lastly, a viscose-like fabric, which is intended to make clothes for daily use like shirts At the awards ceremony, Orange Fiber received the Technology and Innovation Award, presented

by Derek Blasberg and Miroslava Duma, recognizing their important contributions in the fashion industry.

Projects like these mark the beginning of a new era; a bright, sustainable future for the fashion industry and the textile sector as a whole.

They used a 110 dtex filament thread blended with silk to obtain a silky twill that looks, feels, and functions the same as its silk homolog. Lastly, because Orange Fiber is a cellulose fiber, it can be used in much the same way as its man-made counterparts. Thanks to this, Orange Fiber can be dyed, coloured, and printed on to create whatever look or feel you want.

The textile is made from citrus waste and can be used for different blends. The first prototypes, a lacelike fabric blended with silk and another blend more similar to satin, were presented in 2014, during Vogue’s Fashion’s Night Out. The first part of the process takes place in Sicily, where citrus cellulose is extracted, then the raw material is sent to a Spanish spinner partner and finally it comes back to Como, Italy, where another partner trans-

forms it into an exclusive textile.

The prototypes produced are similar to silk, with a soft, drapey, light feel. They can be colored and printed as traditional textiles — inkjet printing and natural colors included.

Compared to existing man-made fibers from cellulose, either from wood or from hemp and bamboo, the orange fiber does not require dedicated yields alternative to food consumption but reuses a waste product, thus saving land, water, fertilizers, and environmental pollution.

Its headquarters are based in Catania, Sicily, and a pilot plant is placed within a citrus juice extraction facility in nearby Caltagirone.

There are also headquarters in Rovereto, in the northern region of Trentino.

The goal is to replicate the plant in Italy and outside the country.

Now, thanks to her creative thinking, it is possible to make whole items of clothing using fibre that originated from the fruit. Could a luxurious silk foulard be made from citrus byproducts, that would otherwise be thrown away or fed to cattle?

Uses of Orange Fibres ; The famous Italian fashion label Salvatore Ferragamo used it in its spring-summer collection. The aim was to make its high-end shirts, dresses, and foulards more sustainable.

Acknowledgment The author is thankful to Mr. Punit Makharia, MD, and Mr. Gautam Makharia, Jt MD of Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers, Mumbai for giving me permission to publish this article.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COVER STORY

COVID19 NONWOVENS IN MEDICAL TEXTILES Ayman Satopay Trainee Editor At TVC

C

reating fabric was traditionally done by conversion offibers into yarns and yarns into fabrics either by weaving or knitting. Then came the introduction of nonwovens in the 19th century.In 1962, the first written definition of nonwovens was initiated by American Society for Testing and materials which defined the term as “textile fabrics made of carded web or fiber web held together by adhesives�.

Nonwoven materials became an especially vital section of the textile trade in recent years. The technical developments in polymers, nonwoven process and cloth finishing have crystal rectifier to important enhancements in cloth physical and mechanical properties as well as cloth handling and drapability, tensile properties, abrasion resistance, pilling and laundry stability, colouring and printing that make prospects for nonwoven cloth applications particularly in attire clothing.

Test method applicable to nonwovens Title

Method Number

Test Methods for nonwovens - Part 6: ISO 9073-6 Absorption Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockme- AATCC 8 ter Method Taber Abrasion

TAPPI T 476

Fiber Analysis of paper and paper TAPPI T 401 board Water Resistance: Impact Penetration AATCC 42 Test Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pres- AATCC 127 sure Test Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC EP 2

Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

ASTM D 737

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

Title

Method Number

Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Ap- ASTM D 1683 parel Fabrics Propagation Tear Resistance of Plastic ASTM D 1922 Film and Thin Sheeting by Pendulum Method Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D 3776

Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics - ASTM D 3786 Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method Breaking Strength and Elongation of ASTM D 5034 Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) Breaking Force and Elongation of Tex- ASTM D 5035 tile Fabrics (Strip Method) Tearing Strength of Nonwoven Fabrics ASTM D 5733 by the Trapezoid Procedure Bursting Strength of Fabrics Constant ASTM D 6797 Rate of Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test Test methods for Nonwovens - Part 10: ISO 9073-10 Lint and other particles generation in the dry state.

Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling- ASTM D1424 Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus Impact Resistance of Plastic Film by ASTM D1709 the Free-Falling Dart Bursting Strength of Textiles - Con- ASTM D3787 stant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics ASTM D3884 (Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)

7

COVER STORY Title

Method Number

Title

Method Number

Total Energy Impact of Plastic Films by ASTM D4272 Dart Drop

Evaluation of Oil and Fatty Liquids Ab- WSP 10.4 sorption

Tearing Strength of Fabric by Trap- ASTM D5587 ezoid Procedure

Abrasion Resistance of Nonwoven WSP 20.5 Fabrics Using a Nonwoven Modified Martindale Abrasion Test Method

Standard practice for Calculating Yel- ASTM E313 lowness and Whiteness Indices from Instrumentally Measured Color Coordinates Laboratory Test Method for 16 CFR CFR 1610 Part 1610: Standard for Flammability of Clothing Textiles Laboratory Test Manual

Electro Static Decay of Nonwoven WSP 40.2 Fabrics Air Permeability of Nonwoven Materi- WSP 70.1 als Nonwoven Coverstock Liquid Strike- WSP 70.3 Through Time Using Simulated Urine.

Absorption, Time and Rewet - Sin- IPS Method gle Insult (Specimen cut from Whole Product)

Wetback After Through Time

Rate of Acqusition and Re-Wet

WSP 70.9

Absorption, Time - Liquid Strike- IPS Method Through, Repeated (Specimen cut from Whole Product)

Centrifugal Liquid Retention Capacity

WSP 70.10

Absorption, Time - Liquid Strike- IPS Method Through (Specimen cut from Whole Product)

Repeated

Strike- WSP 70.8

Evaluation of Water Penetration (Spray WSP 80.3 Impact Test) of Nonwoven Fabrics.

Evaluation of Water Resistance (Hy- WSP 80.6 drostatic Pressure) Test

Absorption, Capacity - 4” x 4” Speci- IPS Method men (Tissue and Thin Absorbent Products)

Nonwovens Coverstock Wetback

Absorption, Time and Rewet - Three IPS Method Insults (Specimen cut from Whole Product)

Tearing Strength of Nonwoven Fabrics WSP 100.1

by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus.

Textile Test Methods - Textile Fabrics ISO 811:1981 - Determination of Resistance to Water Penetration - Hydrostatic Pressure Test

Testing Strength of Nonwoven Fabrics WSP 100.2 by the Trapezoid Procedure

Textiles - Test methods for nonwo- ISO 9073-3 vens - Part 3: Determination of tensile strength and elongation Textiles - Determination of the Perme- ISO 9237 ability of Fabrics to Air Water vapor transmission rate of pa- TAPPI T 448 per and paperboard at 23 °C. and 50% RH Water vapor transmission rate of pa- TAPPI T 464 per and paperboard at high temperature and humidity.

Absorption, Time - Wet Out (Tissues US Patent and Nonwovens ) 7166189

WSP 80.10

Stiffness of Nonwoven Fabrics Using WSP 90.1 the Cantilever Test

Breaking Strength and Elongation of WSP 110.1 Nonwoven Materials (Grab Strength Test) Standard Test Method for Breaking WSP 110.4 Force and Elongation of Nonwoven Materials (Strip Method) Resistance to Mechanical Penetration WSP 110.5 (Ball Burst Procedure) of Nonwoven Fabrics Mass per Unit Area.

WSP 130.1

Resistance to Linting of Nonwoven WSP 160.1 Fabrics Cup Crush

WSP 402.0

Three Standard Test Methods for Non- WSP 10.1 woven Absorption

8

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COVER STORY Nonwovens in medical textiles

Excellent drape and conformability

The use of nonwovens in medical field goes back to the time of Second world war when the need was enormous for production of medical products. In many reports printed, nonwovens were considered the foremost effective materials for microorganism barriers. They were conjointly found superior to linens within the reduction of air-borne contamination.

Good heat resistance

After important development of nonwovens, they were designed in a very thanks to suit the medical wants and provides a performance far better than their woven counterparts in terms of price, effectiveness, disposability etc. In hospitals, cross-contamination is usually one among the most important issues that were attributed mostly to re-using of woven robes, masks and alternative similar articles which might get contaminated and doubtless unfold the germs.

Material used in medical nonwovens: The fibers used in medical nonwovens can be classified in natural and synthetic categories. The natural fibers used are wood-pulp, cotton and rayon. Wood pulp is used for its obvious absorbency, bulk and low cost. Cotton and rayon are good to be used directly on wounds. They have good absorbency and make excellent nonwovens.

The reasons natural fibers make excellent medical nonwovens are: They are highly absorbent of exudate and blood Excellent breathability Good aesthetic characteristics Easy launderability and can be sterilized Excellent dimensional stability and high operability temperature ~ 175 deg C Biodegradable

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

Excellent water retaining capacity Nonallergenic and non-irritantfibers The synthetic fibers mostly used in this application are: polypropylene for its excellent rheological characteristics, hydrophobicity which is desired in some systems where barrier properties are required, low cost, bicomponent fibers which are widely used in thermal bonding and added functionality and polyester when strength, mechanical properties and ease of sterilization are of prime importance. Synthetic fibers also account for the products strength, solvent resistance, static dissipation and many other desirable properties.

The properties of synthetic fibers which are required in many applications: Hydrophobicity: to be able to act as a barrier fabric Easy to process Cost effectiveness Better performance strength, low density

due

to

Easy to dispose, not hazardous https://www.technicaltextile.net/ articles/nonwovens-as-medicaltextiles-3693

Felted Fabrics Wool felt is the most common nonwoven fabric and is produced by using short staple fibres from wool or other animal hairs (such as camel). Wool is an ideal fibre because its surface has natural hooks like scales, which when moisture, heat and vigorous movement are applied, interlock with each other. The heat and damp conditions cause the fibres to curl up, and the scales locking together prevents the fibres from straightening out again. When you wash a natural wool jumper and it shrinks in size the jumper is

actually felting and you can’t make it bigger again no matter how hard you try to stretch it back.

Bonded Fabrics There are three main methods of making bonded fabrics: 1. Dry laid: a web of fibres is laid in a drum and hot air is injected to bond the fibres together.

2.Wet-laid: a web of fibres is mixed with a solvent that softens the fibres and releases a glue-like substance that bonds the fibres together and then the web is laid out to dry.

3.Direct spun: the fibres are spun on to a conveyer belt and glues are sprayed on to the fibres, which are then pressed to bond; if the fibres are thermoplastic (will change shape with heat) then the glue is not needed in this process.

Felted and bonded fabrics applications Hats, jackets, toys and snooker table covers are some commonly used for wool felts.

Bonded fabrics are used for disposable products such as cloths, medical masks, and table linen. They are also used for interfacings for stiffening and strengthening clothing and dressmaking (e.g. Vilene).

Laminated Fabrics Laminated fabrics are made by bonding two or more fabrics together. Many fabrics require extra insulation or protection, and the foam is bonded to provide this.

Sometimes comfort can be an issue with PVC fabrics, so a softer fabric may be bonded instead of using a lining. Making a fabric breathable and waterproof may require lamination of a membrane, as in Gortex and Sympatex. https://www.textileschool. com/352/non-woven-fabrics/

LIST OF NON WOVEN MANUFACTURING COMPANIES IN INDIA B M TRADERS - NON WOVEN INTERLIN-

9

COVER STORY ING

KT EXPORTS INDIA

http://nonwoveninterlining.com/

https://www.ktnonwoven.com/

TEXONFABRICS

MARUTI POLYFABS

https://www.texonfabrics.com/PP%20Non-Woven%20 Fabric%20Rolls.html

http://www.marutipolyfabs.in/

ADITYA NONWOVEN FABRIC PVT LTD http://www.adityanonwovenfabric.com/ SIDWIN NON WOVEN FABRICS

SURYA TEXTECH http://suryatextech.com/ DATA

http://www.sidwinfabrics.com/

Exporters This treemap shows the share of countries that export Non-woven Textiles

Importers This treemap shows the share of countries that import Non-woven Textiles.

10

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COVER STORY https://oec.world/en/profile/ hs92/5603/

NON-WOVEN MATERIALS IN MEDICAL TEXTILES Facemasks How are Masks Made? face masks are made with nonwoven fabric, which has better bacteria filtration and air permeability while remaining less slippery than woven cloth. The material most commonly used to make them is polypropylene, either 20 or 25 grams per square meter (gsm) in density. Masks can also be made of polystyrene, polycarbonate, polyethylene, or polyester.

20 gsm mask material is made in a spunbond process, which involves extruding the melted plastic onto a conveyor. The material is extruded in a web, in which strands bond with each other as they cool. 25 gsm fabric is made through meltblown technology, which is a similar process where plastic is extruded through a die with hundreds of small nozzles and blown by hot air to become tiny fibers, again cooling and binding on a conveyor.

These fibers are less than a micron in diameter.

Surgical masks are made up of a multi-layered structure, generally by covering a layer of textile with non-woven bonded fabric on both sides. Non-wovens, which are cheaper to make and cleaner thanks to their disposable nature, are made with three or four layers.

These disposable masks are often made with two filter layers effective at filtering out particles such as bacteria above 1 micron. The filtration level of a mask, however, depends on the fiber, the way it’s manufactured, the web’s structure, and the fiber’s cross-sectional shape. Masks are made on a machine line that assembles the nonwovens from bobbins, ultrasoni-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

cally welds the layers together, and stamps the masks with nose strips, ear loops, and other pieces.

Completed masks are then sterilized before being sent out of the factory.

Surgical Mask Tests Once surgical masks are made, they must be tested to ensure their safety in various situations. There are five tests they must be put through: 1. Bacteria filtration efficiency in vitro (BFE). This test works by shooting an aerosol with staphylococcus aureus bacteria at the mask at 28.3 liters per minute. This ensures the mask can catch the percentage of bacteria it’s supposed to.

2. Particle Filtration Efficiency.

Also known as the latex particle challenge, this test involves spraying an aerosol of polystyrene microspheres to ensure the mask can filter the size of the particle it’s supposed to.

3. Breathing resistance. To ensure the mask will hold its shape and have proper ventilation while the wearer breathes, breathing resistance is tested by shooting a flow of air at it, then measuring the difference in air pressure on both sides of the mask.

4. Splash resistance.

In splash resistance tests, surgical masks are splashed with simulated blood using forces similar to human blood pressure to ensure

the liquid cannot penetrate and contaminate the wearer.

5. Flammability. Since several elements of an operating room can easily cause fire, surgical masks are tested for flammability by being set on fire to measure how slowly it catches and how long the material takes to burn. ASTM levels 1, 2, and 3 are all required to be Class 1 flame resistant. https://www.thomasnet.com/ articles/other/how-surgicalmasks-are-made/ • Surgical Disposable Non Woven Masks Medical 3ply Disposable Face Masks for Covid-19 • Anti-pollution N95 Face Mask with Breathing Valve and Ear Loops

11

COVER STORY • 3M mask

https://www.tinkleo.com/goods/ masks/11291.html

PPE kit for Covid19 Personal Protective Equipments (PPEs) are protective gears designed to safeguard the health of workers by minimizing the exposure to a biological agent.

Components of PPE are goggles, face-shield, mask, gloves, coverall/gowns (with or without aprons), head cover and shoe cover. https://www.mohfw.gov.in/pdf/ GuidelinesonrationaluseofPersonalProtectiveEquipment.pdf

CDC Recommendations

12

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control recommend certain guidelines for healthcare workers who will come into contact with the virus. Workers should use several types of PPE if available to keep from getting infected: Gowns. ANSI or AAMI PB70 Level 3 or 4 isolation gowns are recommended for medium to high risk of contamination where a large critical zone is needed. Surgical gowns at levels 1-4 can be worn for all levels of exposure while in surgery, and ANSI/AAMI PB70 Level 1 or 2 gowns can be worn for activities with minimal risk of exposure. Gowns should cover the wearer’s back even when they bend over or sit.

Coveralls. Coveralls can be worn in place of gowns. They provide better protection, but they also are more uncomfortable to most healthcare workers thanks to the added insulation. Additionally, healthcare workers are often more unfamiliar with coveralls, which can lead to risks if coveralls aren’t properly removed.

Gloves. Nonsterile patient examination gloves can be used to treat

coronavirus patients. These can include nitrile, natural, rubber, polychloroprene, and vinyl gloves. Double gloving and extended length gloves are not considered necessary.

Respirators. Surgical N95 respirators, which can filter out bacteria and viruses, should only be worn by healthcare workers in sterile environments or who are at risk of airborne or fluid hazards such as sprays. Nonsurgical N95s can be worn by healthcare workers outside of surgery who are in contact with coronavirus patients. If no respirators are available, workers are advised to wear the next best level of protection, such as a face mask.

Eye protection. This can be a face shield or goggles. Reusable goggles and shields should be cleaned and disinfected after every use, and disposable types should be thrown out after every use. This should be removed before leaving the patient care area. https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/plant-facility-equipment/ how-to-make-ppe/

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COVER STORY

IMPACT OF COVID-19 ON GLOBAL AND DOMESTIC MARKET OF TEXTILE AND FASHION INDUSTRY BHAVIKA GULRAJANI Trainee- Bussiness Developer

The restaging of Chanel’s Métiersd’Art show, Ralph Lauren’s fall 2020 show, and Burberry’s fall 2020 show is also being postponed due to the virus. New York Bridal Week, which was scheduled for April 16 to 20, is going virtual, with designers encouraged to use Zoom and Join.me platforms to present their collections.

T

he global spread of the coronavirus is continuously impacting the fashion industry. As the coronavirus pandemic spreads, so do its impact. COVID-19 has steadily spread across the world since it originated in Wuhan City in the Hubei Province of China, with roughly 425,600 cases and 19,301 deaths globally as of March 25, according to the New York Times.

Beyond the devastating human cost, businesses are also feeling the deep impact of the ongoing outbreak. The Chinese economy is already taking a hit.

Made in China China is deeply embedded in all aspects of fashion’s supply chain.

The World Trade Statistical Review found that in 2018 – the most recent data available – China exported $118.5bn (£91.1bn) of textiles and $157.8bn (£121.5bn) of clothing, making it the world’s biggest exporter of these categories.

Impacting the Fashion, Beauty and Retail Industries

1.Fashion Stocks Plummet: The stock market has experienced

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

design houses to cancel or postpone their international resort 2021 shows, including Armani, Dior, Gucci, Hermès, Max Mara, Prada, Chanel, and Versace.

3. Major Events Canceled: A number of high-profile events have been canceled over the last

significant declines for the last few weeks as COVID-19 has rapidly spread across the globe.

On March 16, trading was halted shortly after markets opened and the Dow Jones Industrial Average fell 1,820.41 points (or 7.9 percent) to 21,365.21, further pushing the market into bear territory.

2. Fashion Week Disruptions: COVID-19 hit Italy in the midst of Milan Fashion Week in late February, causing a number of designs — including Giorgio Armani, who barred a public audience to view his fall 2020 runway show — to rethink their show formats.

The virus has now caused many

few weeks as the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention enacted more stringent guidelines on large group gatherings.

These canceled events span virtually every industry, including fashion, film, technology, and sports, among others. Among those canceled are the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, SXSW, the Tribeca Film Festival, Beautycon, the Boston Marathon, and the 2020 Summer Olympics, among others.

Recent cancellations include the Met Gala, which Vogue editor in

13

COVER STORY chief Anna Wintour announced on March 16 will be postponed indefinitely, the CFDA Awards, which would have been held at the New York Public Library on June 8, and the 2020 Cannes Film Festival.

piled up, given it’s going to take some time for demand to recover.

Secondly, the supply chain of the upcoming Autumn Winter 20 collections will take a hit because the planning has already begun, and the current disruption will have a significant impact on the supply side in the apparel industry”

4. Other Events Go Virtual: As several major events are being canceled due to COVID-19, others

Major shopping malls, including New Jersey’s supersized mall American Dream and California’s South Coast Plaza and Rodeo Drive, have also closed.

A few retailers are also closing their e-commerce sites temporarily, including Victoria’s Secret, Pink, and TJX. are going virtual to go forward with their pre-planned summits and trade shows.

The Girlboss Rally in Los Angeles is just one event to go digital, now offering free online streaming to a global audience. Attendees who already purchased a ticket — which ranged from $375 to $725 — for the initial event on April 25 will be receiving refunds. A date for the livestream has not yet been revealed.

Other events going digital in light of COVID-19 are Zero Waste Summit, a two-day event on sustainability, the Fair Trade Campaigns National Conference, and the Google Cloud Next: Digital Connect conference.

5.Retail Stores Shutter: Retailers have responded to the COVID-19 pandemic by shuttering their doors. In the last few days, a number of major retailers and brands announced their temporary closures in the U.S., including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s, H&M, Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Sephora, Nike, Apple, Walmart, Urban Outfitters, Madewell, Everlane, Lululemon, Glossier, Reformation, and Anthropologie, among others.

14

Impact on the Apparel Industry “There are two ways of looking at the COVID-19 situation and its impact on the apparel industry. The

short or near-term impact is that as the country is going through a COVID-19 scare and potential health risk, we’ll witness a fall in apparel sales on account of malls/ stores being closed. More importantly, the mental bandwidth of consumers will also shift from purchasing lifestyle needs such as apparel to daily needs such as food and beverages. For the upcoming year, assuming things start picking up, the apparel industry will still see two levels of implications. One: The Spring Summer 20 sale cycle will take a hit as inventories have already been planned and will get

The fashion industry is facing calls to step in and protect the wages of the 40 million garment workers in their supply chains around the world who face destitution as factories close and orders dry up in the wake of the Covid-19 epidemic.

Many factories in garment-producing countries including Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Vietnam are already closing due to a shortage of raw materials from China and declining orders from western clothing brands.

Quarantine and self-isolation measures being rapidly imposed by governments across the world are likely to see the wide-scale closure of thousands of more factories in the days and weeks to come.

Campaigners are demanding that brands take responsibility for the millions of workers in their supply chains who are likely to fall into crippling poverty as they lose their jobs and struggle to provide for their families. Major western brands pay Indian garment workers 11p an hour The Clean Clothes Campaign, a coalition of campaigning groups, is also calling on brands to ensure that workers who contract the virus are allowed to take sick leave without repercussions from the factories and continue to receive their wages throughout their period of self-isolation.

Scott Nova, executive director at the Worker Rights Consortium, part of the Clean Clothes Campaign, said that poverty wages, unsafe and unsanitary workplaces, and poor health already makes the garment workforce highly vulnerable to the

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COVER STORY worst effects of the Covid-19 virus

out resources. According to media

“The fashion industry has evolved in a way that makes it hard in normal times for the people who actually make the clothes we all wear every day to survive on the poverty wages they are paid,” he said.

Several Indian apparel brands, ecommerce firms, and textile bodies have geared up to face the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic by implementing measures, including ‘work from home’ option for staff, ensure proper communication related to the new coronavirus, as-

Slowdown in demand & supply Coronavirus has disrupted the demand and supply chain across the country and with this disruption, As the consumption of any product or services goes down, it leads to an

reports, at least 22 people have died on the walk home. Reports also coming in of migrant workers having to undergo disinfecting measures on the way, including potentially hazardous chemicals.

Social distancing a luxury that workers on Rs 152 a day can’t afford A survey of factory owners in Bangladesh found that major fashion retailers that are closing shops and laying off workers in Europe and the U.S. are also canceling their sometimes already completed orders, as workers often go unpaid.

impact on the workforce. In the current scenario, with all the retailers closing down their services, the jobs of the employees are at a huge risk.

The financial market has experienced uncertainty about the future course and repercussions of COVID-19. An estimated Rs 10 lakh crore of market cap was reportedly wiped off due to the fall of sensex in the second week of March 2020.

The fall has continued to date as investors resorted to relentless selling amid rising cases of coronavirus.

India on ro ads Thousands of domestic migrant workers continue to walk hundreds of kilometers to their home towns.

The vast majority of workers do not have paid sick leave and many workers are left stranded and with-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

Indian apparel firms gear up to face COVID-19 impact.

About 4.1 million people work in apparel factories in Bangladesh, the world’s No. 2 garment exporter after China. The South Asian country is just beginning to feel the direct impact of the pandemic. But the shocks to its export markets have been cascading into its economy for weeks.

The damage is not limited to the garments sector. The International Labor Organization has estimated that 25 million jobs may be lost due to the virus outbreak.

sessing earlier revenue targets.

Most industry experts feel it is too early to project or predict.

Coimbatore-based Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF) is taking measures to get more market information from members and share with entrepreneurs to allow them to take a call on production, its convener Prabhu Dhamodaran.

He feels better awareness of the trends will reduce panic.

Buyers from Europe and the United States are either postponing or canceling orders. Apart from that, there is a working capital shortage due to liquidity issues in the market due to the current crisis, Dhamodaran said.

According to Yogesh Kabra, founder of Surat-headquartered menswear brand XYXX, lack of correct and all-encompassing information is primarily the issue that ends up creating panic. His company is trying its best to filter and communicate scientific and authentic information to employees to ensure their safety. It is too early to project anything now, he said.

Menswear brand Cambridge is implementing a half-day work policy for employees in two batches to

15

COVER STORY avoid peak-hour travel using public transport, according to its brand custodian Prashant Bhatia, who said getting right-hand sanitizers and face masks is a problem. As sales at the retail outlets have already been hit, it will push the company back by at least three months and will also affect the Festive/Winter sale this year.

The sales team of Bengalurubased Yashram Brands Unlimited (YBU) is the most affected by the pandemic with a reduction in sales, while its online business continues as before, said its founder-chief executive officer (CEO), Deepa Kumar.

Employees come to work in turns and the company has started to cut back a little in purchases and expenditure E-commerce firm NorthMist has offered the ‘work from home’ option to employees and has sanitized its offices, according to co-founder and CEO Arijit Mazumdar. Its sales numbers have dipped significantly.

Though the company’s businessto-business orders have come to a halt, its business-to-consumer orders have been increasing rapidly.

It expects losses to rise.

next month, but if the crisis continues, then production would be affected, he added.

Styched CEO Soumajit Bhowmik said his company is relatively less affected as most of the materials or components in its set-up are sourced within India or made inhouse. There was a nearly 35 percent drop in conversion rate last week from the company’s e-commerce site and app, he said, as the pandemic has thrown up challenges in shipping, raising delivery time.

Textile industry body seeks relief package to mitigate COVID-19 pandemic impact The Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has requested the government to immediately announce a relief package for the textile and apparel sector to mitigate the crisis being faced by the capital and labor-intensive textile Industry, post the coronavirus

Filatex India continues working at full capacity, but requests for cancellation or delay in shipments from foreign buyers will definitely hit the company, said its chairman and managing director Madhu SudhanBhageria. Outsiders are not being allowed inside the plants, people are being screened and thermal check-ups are being conducted.

The company has supplies for the

16

The CITI chairman further stated that they understood the gravity of the pandemic and the government’s directions to close all the malls and retail outlets with a view to controlling the situation at an early stage, but it has resulted in the substantial reduction in the sales of the domestic textiles and clothing.

Hence he said that they have asked the government for a moratorium for repayment of principal and interest amount to the banks for four quarters (1st April 2020 to 31st March 2021). Further, they have asked for exemption of all raw materials, dyes, and chemicals, intermediaries, spares, accessories, etc., from anti-dumping duty and basic customs duty.

Battling COVID-19: What the industry wants

The retail sector is at a very high risk of exposure, said Saurabh Gupta, director, Mustard Clothing Company, New Delhi, which has offered ‘work from home’ option to its employees.

As orders have dropped by only 5 percent, Styched does not expect more than ₹10 lakh loss over two months.

ucts and also the domestic sales have come down to a grinding halt due to the panic situation created by the outbreak of COVID-19. “The spread of the virus in China and which later got spread to EU and USA has majorly impacted us as they are huge markets for Indian textile products,” he said in a press statement on Tuesday.

spread.

Apart from a reduction in bank interest rate, an extension of soft loans the industry has asked for a moratorium for repayment of principal and interest amount to the banks for four quarters.

The textile and clothing industry employs over 105 million people and also earn around the US $ 40 billion forex, apart from substantial revenue under GST and other taxes.

T Rajkumar, chairman, CITI said that the demand for textile prod-

CII has suggested a bouquet of measures to help businesses battling the 21-day shutdown • Extend 0% interest loans equivalent to Government dues • Wage subsidy up to 50% for registered workers for 2 quarters • Exempt raw materials from anti-dumping duties • Working capital at max 7% from April-Dec 2020

INDUSTRY REVIEWS Rahul Mehta, CMAI (chief mentor).

India’s Garment Industry is currently going through its worst-ever crisis. And this is across the board – both Exports as well as Domestic.

The Domestic Industry is largely consisting of manufacturers in the

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COVER STORY MSME Sector, and even within this sector, the Micro and Small units would form the majority. These units would typically be operating on wafer-thin margins, surviving on a day to day basis, with little or no safety network in terms of capital or savings. Any disruption of business of an extended period would typically result in massive cut downs, laying off of labor, and ultimately closure of the units.

The current lockdown of the country – it is expected that the lockdown would continue till the end of April at the very least – is a death blow to these smaller units. Most of them will simply not have the resources of surviving for any length of time even after the markets reopen. This is because even after they reopen, markets are highly unlikely to return to its normal buoyancy for at least another 10 to 12 months, if not more. Payments against cur-

This season is a goner in any case.

I don’t think anyone is even looking at it. What worries me is the ability of many of the members to handle the situation going ahead.

I estimate the markets to show a minimum of 30-40% drop in business till at least August, and then take another 10 to 12 months to come back to where it was prior to March 2020.

I anticipate massive job losses, especially at the production floor level and Marketing departments.

The only way to avoid this blood bath is massive Government support. Some good measures have been announced, but much more needs to be done. The government has to realize that unless the business is supported, economic conditions cannot be improved.

The virus can be seen as a representation of our conscience Are we supposed to blame the virus for what’s happening to the industry and people involved in it .not really? The answer is right here in front of us its high time we change our attitude towards everything wrong if it’s not now then never indeed.

The way we dress is closely pegged to how we live. As Covid-19 alters day-to-day life for millions, it may also leave its mark on the clothes we wear.

rent dues are likely to be delayed

by Retailers, who are fighting their own battles for survival. Pending orders, even of goods That we’re ready to be shipped when the lockdown was announced, are also going to be canceled, or, in the best-case scenario, going to be taken delivery of in a delayed and staggered manner.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

The biggest shifts in fashion have historically not come from runway trends but followed events such as wars that disrupt society on a huge scale, says Kimberly ChrismanCampbell, a fashion historian and author of Worn on This Day: The Clothes That Made History. Their effects ripple through supply chains, the economy, social behavior, and daily life, often accelerating and normalizing changes already underway.

from crisis?

While sections of the fashion industry already knew they could not continue on their current trajectory, it was inconceivable that brands could be forced to slow down, let alone stop production altogether.

But that is what has happened as famous names from Prada to Zara have turned their production lines to making medical gowns and masks, and luxury houses have changed from making perfume to sanitizers. It’s an unprecedented interruption of an industry that has relied on speeding from one season’s sales to the next. And it is bringing with it a new sense of contentedness, responsibility, and empathy.

Sustainable clothing is the answer to all our problems and maintaining a minimal wardrobe.

How can you make an impact on the current scenario?

If there is one thing that the difficult times taught us to be grateful for everything that we have a roof on our head, meals to eat and the resources to survive this difficult period but think about those who are not that grateful as we are the daily wage workers and all those low-income groups. Here is how you can do your part.

The relief fund announced by Prime Minister Narendra Modi to fight the coronavirus pandemic has got wholehearted support from political leaders, corporates, defense personnel, employees of PSUs such as Railways and Bollywood personalities, along with people from all other quarters of life.

There’s nothing big or little. Every single contribution matters. It shows our collective resolve to defeat COVID-19.

‘Put Earth first’ can a greener, fairer fashion industry emerge

17

COVER STORY

TREATMENT OF MEDICAL AND MEDITEX WASTE URVI GOSAR Intern At TVC

tion injury. Staff members handling medical wastage should be trained from time to time which will help as a reminder and refresh their minds and also learn handling techniques, amount of risk contained and information about process dealing with accidents, spillage, how to use protective clothing to avoid risk.

Correct waste handling. Should be demonstrated to other staff members too.

Storage

I

n the current scenario when there is a high demand for personal protective equipment (PPE), many manufacturers have come up to fulfill the needs of the nation during this pandemic “COVID-19�.

The main problem after this pandemic would be the accumulation of huge medical waste which can be hazardous to the environment and living creatures. Another question will be how would medical centers, hospitals, and clinics deal with this medical wastage which will be in tons and tons. And with such huge and massive amounts of hazardous wastes produced by hospitals will need effective and safe ways to dispose of.

The world health organization (WHO) have stated some

18

guidelines for the ways to treat with medical waste which are as follows:

Handling Hospital staff who handles waste have very high responsibility. Hospital staff who handles waste should always be cautious for their safety because after a certain amount of time when developing routine they become less cautious which may affect their safety and may get an infection or get contamina-

Medical waste hospitals and centers should provide a specific place were Medical wastage can be stored temporarily with the hospital premises. It should be taken care of during the construction of the hospital was this place should not be near the food preparation area, supply and storage room, or medicine storage room. Waste should be segregated taking proper safety and care measures and divided into disposal waste and hazardous waste. This segregation should be handled by waste man-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COVER STORY agement staff. Wastage should be monitored from time to time closely and should be removed with a specific period of time. And wastage containers should be effectively labeled as hazardous, nonhazardous, and disposable wastes that can not be mixed.

Treatment Yes, healthcare activities generate waste, but only about 20% of these hospital wastes are biohazard wastes that could be infectious, toxic, or radioactive. Though 20% doesn’t seem like it’s a whole lot, hospitals produce about 5.9 million tons of waste annually, which means that about 1,070,477,990 kilograms of biohazard wasteproduced each year. NaturallyNaturally, there’s a huge demand for hospital waste management. Yet few actually know what medical waste disposal methods are actually employed to deal with the heavy amount of biohazard waste.

Here are just a few of the most successful medical waste disposal solutions currently used in the industry today.

Autoclaving Autoclaving uses a heated container to destroy waste that is one of the most effective ways to deal with biohazard wastes. In fact, about 90% of biohazard waste is autoclaved or incinerated at roughly 2,400 medical waste incinerators (MWI) Encapsulation One type of biohazard waste known as sharps requires that special precautions be taken. Sharps are, as the name implies, sharp, and can easily tear or puncture what’s containing them, which can consequentially allow them to easily spread infection. Used syringes, scalpels, and other sharp medical materials need to be encapsulated in a properly labeled, puncture-resistant container and placed in an appropriately designated spot for deposition in a landfill.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

Mechanical treatment

by-products.

treatment to tear waste apart goes by verbs: granulate, pulverizes, shreds, grinds, mixes, agitation, and crushing. This can reduce the bulk volume of the waste by 60 percent or more. Waste can be moved through the processing facility with augers, conveyor belts, and other material handling systems. Mechanical treatment does not kill pathogens or disinfect equipment, but it can reduce the waste volume

There are some basic processes for the treatment of hazardous components in health-care waste, specifically, sharps, infectious and pathological wastes: thermal, chemical, irradiation, biological, mechanical, incineration, autoclave, vitrification, Gast sterilization.

in preparation for further treatment or disposal

Chemical treatment Chemical disinfection, primarily through the use of chlorine compounds, kills microorganisms in medical waste and can often oxidize hazardous chemical constituents. Chlorine bleach has been used for disinfecting processes for years – you might use it to clean your underwear and kill the e.coli.

Chlorine compounds are used in swimming pools to reduce the risk of disease transmission. Ethylene oxide treatment is used to disinfect materials and is sometimes used in the treatment of medical waste.

Choices of treatment technologies should be made in line with a clear knowledge of the waste to be managed and the goal to be achieved through treatment. If the technology is to be environmentally sound than a growing concern among health care providers is the wastage should be able to be treated without creating other hazardous

Transport Transporting hazardous medical waste should comply with national regulations, and with international agreements if wastes are shipped across an international frontier for treatment. As with storage, haz-

ardous and non-hazardous waste should always be transported separately. Drivers of vehicles carrying waste should have appropriate training regarding regulations, waste classifications and risks, labeling and documentation, safe handling, and emergency procedures. Drivers should also be declared medically fit to drive vehicles and are recommended to have a vaccination against tetanus and hepatitis A and B.

Disposal Medical waste disposal firms are available to pick up waste that cannot be treated onsite. Waste is then treated and deposited in carefully designed and protected landfills.

Conclusion As per a study, these are different ways do deal with medical waste but in case of personal protective equipment (PPE) kits if manufacturers use raw material which is degradable in the soil which won’t

19

SWOT ANALYSIS harm the environment and living creatures were in an interview with one of the manufacturer (anonymous) he said they use raw material which can be degradable in the soil in 90days. The study included all the ways that help dispose of all types of medical wastage including Meditex waste. I feel there is a lot of scope in this field for research and development of not only treatment of wastage but also developing new ways of Meditex articles which are safe, breathable, comfortable, and degradable.

Reference https://www.healthcareglobal.com/hospitals/howmanage-hospital-waste https://www.medassureservices.com/blog/medicalwaste-disposal/ https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/plant-facilityequipment/how-to-make-ppe/ https://www.malsparo.com/treat2.htm

COVID-19 AND THE NEW NORMAL INDIA UJJWAL KUMAR DEY Management Trainee- TVC

An effective strategy is required for fighting COVID-19 for minimizing risks and maximizing results, and for that, it is crucial to identify the internal and external factors correctly.

A SWOT analysis gives an idea about India’s current position in tackling the pandemic. This analysis examines India’s Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats on the COVID front and aims to come out with recommendations that can help battle the crisis.

I

ndia is currently undergoing the fourth phase of nationwide lockdown which is slated to end on May 31. Prime Minister Narendra Modi had first given the clarion call for a nationwide lockdown on March 24 in order to limit the spread of the Novel Coronavirus. Since then the lockdown has been extended

20

thrice and it can be further extended to June 15.

Lockdown for India is both a historic and necessary step for countering the spread of the virus. In the meantime, the government undertook many initiatives to defend the country against COVID-19.

STRENGTHS yy Existing Infrastructures like schools, railway coaches, hotels, offices, etc. Was converted into Isolation wards. yy India is the largest producer and supplier of hydroxychloroquine, a prospective drug for treating COVID-19. yy Rapid measures were undertaken such as imposing travel restrictions and lockdown that enabled India to balance its supply and demand. yy All domestic and international travelers and offices are mandated to undergo a compulsory

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

SWOT ANALYSIS thermal screening check. yy Transparent communication by the leadership led to compliance of requisite directions given to the masses to slow down the spread of COVID-19. yy The medical and health system is gradually gearing up to take on the new challenge. yy Huge repository of start-ups, intellectual property, platforms generated to fight against the crisis.

Asimov Robotics, a start-up based in Kerala, has deployed robots at entrances to office buildings and other public places to dispense hand sanitizer and deliver public health messages about the virus.

They are also being deployed in hospital isolation wards to carry food and medicines, which eases the pressure on the medical staff.

In early April, the Indian government launched a COVID-19 tracking app called AAROGYA SETU which uses GPS and Bluetooth to inform people when they are at risk of exposure to COVID-19.

Amid COVID-19 pandemic, IIT-Mandi Researchers developed two lowcost portable ventilators.

IIT-Roorkee developed a low-cost portable ventilator that can be useful for COVID-19 patients and named it ‘PRANA-VAYU’. It is developed in collaboration with AIIMS Rishikesh.

IIT-Delhi’s start-up Estyloinstalled a full-body sanitization tunnel at Delhi’s Azadpur Vegetables and Fruits Wholesale Market.

Four engineers from Indore city have developed an ‘Ultraviolet Sanitizer Machine’ which can sterilize the necessary items used by police personnel and healthcare workers within minutes.

DRDO developed the ‘UV Disinfection Tower’ for sanitizing coronavirus-prone areas.

WEAKNESSES www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

yy Lack of testing kits and relief materials like medical equipment, PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), masks, and ventilators. yy Challenge in manufacturing testing kits and relief material indigenously, making us dependent on imports. yy Lack of awareness among specific sections of society. yy Psychological barrier relating to isolation: People fear the quarantine conditions yy Highly susceptible to diseases and poor immunity. yy High incubation period ranging from 1 day to 14 days. yy Shortage of emergency healthcare infrastructure and professionals. yy Doctor to patient ratio is 1:1445. yy Hospital beds to people ratio are 0.1:1000. yy Ventilators to population ratio are 40000:1.3 billion. yy Lack of flexible employee working arrangements.

OPPORTUNITIES

yy Create a robust third-tier structure of governance (at panchayat/gramin level) for monitoring and spreading awareness. yy India can emerge as a world leader by setting examples for other nations on how to fight the crisis like India’s Minister of Health and Family Welfare Dr. Harsh Vardhan took charge as the WHO’sExecutive Board by replacing Japan.

India scored perfect 100 on ‘OXFORD COVID-19 Government Response Tracker’ by the University of OXFORD and identified India’s response as one of the most stringent in the world.

WHO (World Health Organisation) praised Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s initiatives to fight against COVID-19. yy Development of standard operating policies and procedures in the form of emergency preparedness and response plan

for the present and future outbreaks. yy Development of a vaccine/antidote for COVID-19. yy Involve start-ups, MSME, Corporate Research, and Development (R&D) and Academic Institutions for providing innovative solutions for fighting COVID. Explore the allied sectors that became prominent due to the COVID-19 pandemic, including technological interventions like video conferencing for carrying out work from home and education.

THREATS

yy Failure in contact tracing may lead to worsening of the present situation and an increase in the probability of being hit by the second wave of COVID-19. yy Coronavirus has attained level 3 of the epidemic i.e. community transmission stage. yy Breach of lockdown protocols and social-distancing norms. yy Increased chances of spread of infection (high population density with 27.9%people lying below the poverty line). yy Higher chances of frontline workers contracting the disease. yy Dwindled the economy and overall growth of the nation. yy Impact on stock markets as well as global, national, and local trade.

Worldwide lockdown catalyzing slowdown into recession leading to an increase the unemployment and poverty levels.

India can use strengths to maximize opportunities by:

yy Development of a strong thirdtier governance system (panchayat level, similar to Kerala’s governance model) for educating and monitoring people. yy Carrying ahead intellectual repository created to fight the crisis into the post-pandemic world. yy Making use of R&D (Research and Development) for the rapid

21

SWOT ANALYSIS development of COVID-19 vaccine/antidote.

30 different companies are trying to produce an Indian vaccine to fight against the pandemic at large. The WHO has given approval to at least 7 of them. They are: i. ICMR-Bharat Biotech Vaccine ICMR (Indian Council of Medical Research) has collaborated with BBIL (Bharat Biotech International Limited). ii. Serum Institute of India (SII) SII partnered with the University of OXFORD. iii. Mynvax Mynvax collaborated with IISC Bengaluru. iv. Zydus Cadila v. Indian Immunological Limited (IIL)

IIL has joined hands with a University from Australia.

yy India can take the lead in becoming the next favorable destination for housing business operations of Multinational Corporations.

As a direct fall out of the COVID-19 pandemic, many Multinationals with manufacturing plants in China are looking to shift operations out.

India has to make its move by welcoming those MNCs. The Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath recently had a video conference with a number of American companies. The Uttar Pradesh government is working on a package to attract them.

Tamil Nadu Chief Minister Edappadi K Palaniswami has set up a special investment promotion task force headed by the Chief Secretary to attract investments from Multinationals looking to move out of China. In particular, it is trying to get companies from Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Singapore, and the US. India can use strengths to minimize threats by: yy Extending health assurance

22

benefits to the larger masses. yy Implementation of the strong operating policies and procedures for present and future outbreaks. yy Providing a policy boost to existing start-ups, MSME, and manufacturing sectors for uplifting the economy and employment generating. yy Build investor trust by taking initiatives to promote Foreign Direct Investments.

India can use opportunities to minimize weakness by: yy Make use of start-ups, MSMEs, and Indian labs for the prodWuction of PPEs, testing kits, ventilators, etc.

India, which was not manufacturing even a single PPE kit, has now achieved an almost unrealistic goal of producing 2.06lakh PPE kits daily within 2 months after the coronavirus outbreak. The government has identified at least 110 domestic manufacturers of PPE kits in the country. However, only 52 companies are manufacturing PPE kits right now.

Pune-based Mylab Discovery Solutions is manufacturing testing kits for COVID-19. It has partnered with the Serum Institute of Technology (SII) to help scale up production of the tests early in April month.

Defense Public Sector Undertaking (DPSU) Bharat Electronics Limited (BEL) will manufacture 30,000 ventilators within 2 months for Intensive Care Units (ICU) in the country.

The Ahmedabad Textile Industry Research Association (ATIRA) in collaboration with DRDO has produced high-quality cloth to make masks of 99 percent filter efficiency, the highest amongst all kinds of masks available in the country.

ATIRA is developing the cloth material for the preparation of 5 lakh ‘N-99 masks’ which would be better in quality than the N-95 masks that have been in huge demand of late in the fight against coronavirus.

yy Develop necessary technical infrastructures to ensure smooth and flexible employee working arrangements to minimize job losses.

During the lockdown, the Indian IT Industry made employees “Work From Home” (WFH) as per the government’s mandate. During the lockdown, the IT Industry transitioned to the WFH model rather smoothly providing business continuity to clients with lowering quality or productivity, surprising industry leaders, and customers alike.

India can prevent weaknesses from turning to threats by:

yy Ensure adequate infrastructure and protect our frontline workers and healthcare staff.

Nearly 5.11 lakh PPEs have been supplied to various states/central hospitals by the Central government, which have added to the initial stock of 2.75 lakhs available with States. The Ministry has also supplied 30.32 lakh N95 masks to states which is over and above the initial stock of 16.67 lakh N-95 masks with them.

Under the PradhanMantriGaribKalyan package, the government has announced an Accidental Insurance cover of Rs 50 lakhs for 22.12 lakh healthcare workers who may be drafted for services for COVID-19 patients. The scheme covers loss of life due to COVID-19 and accidental death on account of COVID-19 related duty. yy Find, isolate, test, and treat to prevent the present situation from getting worse. yy Specific actions to be taken for the people Below the Poverty Line (BPL).

Women in 8.3 crores BPL families are covered under the Ujjwala Scheme will get free cylinders for 3 months.

20 crore women Jan Dhan Account holders will get an ex-gratia amount of Rs 500 per month for 3

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

SWOT ANALYSIS months.

Three crore poor senior citizens, widows, disabled to get a one-time ex-gratia amount of Rs 1000 in two installments.

Wages under MGNREGA to be hiked to Rs 202 from Rs 182, which would mean an additional Rs 2000 to every worker.

The government is providing 5 kg food grains per person and 1 kg of pulses per household under Pradhan Mantri Garib Kalyan Ann Yojana for next 3 months to 80 crore poor beneficiaries covered under National Food Security Act (NFSA) to ensure availability of food to poor people during lockdown due to COVID-19. yy Expect and plan a rapid re-

sponse to the rising number of cases to avoid pressure on the healthcare system. yy Practice social distancing to protect the vulnerable. yy Increase the frequency and reach of awareness campaigns to educate and help people overcome psychological barriers.

INTERN ARTICLE

THE IMPACT OF COVID-19 ON THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE OUR CLOTHES MUSKAN MANGTANI Intern At TVC

fashion supply chain that feel the worst effects. Industrial, the global trade union which works to give workers around the world a voice, says that millions of garment makers have already lost their jobs as a result of the virus and have no access to social or financial safety nets to help them weather this storm. s the world faces this pandemic in unified isolation, we at Fashion Revolution are focusing on how the unfolding situation is affecting the people who make our clothes.

Retailers are shutting their doors around the world, encouraging their customers to shop online instead. Yet the reality is that as we are forced to stay in our homes many of us are financially burdened by layoffs or new childcare responsibilities, and the desire to buy new clothes feels like a distant dream.

While we have been encouraging an end to overconsumption for many years, we also know that in the face of this unexpected halt in manufacturing, it is the most vulnerable, lowest paid people in the

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

“Bangladeshi garment manufacturer Mostafiz Uddin reminds us, “Poverty is a killer too, and many more people die from poverty than from COVID-19”.

In the global fashion industry, brands typically pay their suppliers weeks or even months after delivery, rather than upon order. This means that suppliers usually pay upfront for the materials or fibres used to make the products brand buy from them. In response to the pandemic, many major fashion brands and retailers are cancelling orders and stopping payments for orders already placed, even when the work has already been done, taking no responsibility for the impact this has on the people working in their supplychains. Factories are

left with little choice but to destroy or keep hold of unwanted goods already made and lay off their workers in droves.

Meanwhile, in this current crisis, we believe that our capacity for empathy is strengthened by our shared global experience. While we may be stuck indoors, using social media our voices can still be amplified, especially when we speak up together. That’s why we’re asking our global community to be louder than ever. To ask #WhoMadeMyClothes? and demand that fashion brands protect the workers in their supply chain just as they would their own employees, especially during this unprecedented global health and economic crisis.

If we do nothing, the fashion industry will simply return to business as usual when this is all over. Instead, let’s come together as a revolution and build a new system that values the wellbeing of people and planet over profit. This means that right now we should stand together to protect and support the people who make our clothes.

23

EXPERT ARTICLE

REVERBERATIONS OF ONGOING COVID19 IMPACT ON INDIA S TEXTILES, CLOTHING, AND RETAIL INDUSTRY the 5th largest in the world of size $2.5 Trillion, is losing out at a rate of $1 Billion per day alone in domestic markets; and may close the current FY 2020 with `zero growth` versus 5% that was just pre COVID.

Munish Tyagi International consultant,

Textile & Apparel Industry,

worldwide

“

India’s economy had

slowed down in March,

but it was then projected to have managed a

gross domes- tic product (GDP) growth of

about $3,000 billion at the end of FY20.

OVERVIEW

T

he ongoing COVID19 has started played havoc with India s teeming millions, making it to 9th worst affected country. India s textile and clothing industry, its output, and prospects, even though India has now taken a severe and devastating nose dive especially in wake of the `reverse` migration of its industrial workers of which at least 10 million were working in the T&C sectors. Indian economy, now

24

India’s economy had slowed down in March, but it was then projected to have managed a gross domestic product (GDP) growth of about $3,000 billion at the end of FY20.

Private consumption accounts for about 58 percent of GDP (around $1,700 billion). Of such consumption, about 48 percent (or about $825 billion) is consumer spending on merchandise (the size of India’s retail sector) and the remaining $875 billion is spent on a range of services (and small savings). The ongoing sharp fall in growth due to static and declining consumer demand will have a significant impact on what India consumes in the next six or eight quarters as purchasing power has significantly diminished. Accordingly, this will influence and negatively impact the fortunes of the retail sector across all types of channels and formats with max. the decline in earnings of the textile/clothing/and fashion segments. A sharp fall in `consumer demand` will have a significant impact on what India consumes in the next six or eight quarters as purchasing power drastically feel during the Covid19 and will continue the same trends din postvoid due to millions of `job losses` and migrant workers going back to the rural homes. Accordingly, this will influence the fortunes of the retail sector across all types, including Ecommerce While the neighboringB.Desh has already lost $ 2 to 2.5 Bln revenues for its garment export orders which service almost 80% foreign exchange earnings for the country;

It is estimated that India s textile/ clothing industry will take a hit of 30-35% on its total overall income and turnover of approx. USD 100 Billion mainly due to the drastic cut down in both, the domestic and export demand. The export and retail `demand recession` outlined above will lead to an overall reduction in manufacturing capacity utilisations as a domino effect on the fabric making, Yarn spinning, and eventually last-mile segment of Cotton and its farming.

India s textile and apparel sectors will continue facing the headwinds from both, the reduced export demand as also `loss of consumer confidence` to shore up the domestic retail consumption. It is very important to understand that the initial impact of COVID 19 was mainly for `Supply-side ` disruptions due to the closure of manufacturing plants in China, followed

by Turkey, and then India, Vietnam, and others. Today, after 3months of Covid119 beginning, while the supply side has started its restoration process with China to begin/ relaunch first and others to follow; It is the Demand side which is standing still with limited active retail and export buyers to help restart production of T &C. With huge closure of retail esp. in western Europe and the USA, and the continued closure of shopping malls, high street retail outlets, and the absence of export orders; the tailwinds for countries like India are too strong when there is no back up domestic demand to support the above-market losses. The Indian govt. under the circumstances has tried to provide a multi-billion dollarpackage to revive the core industries, the SME industry which encompasses the majority of small to medium textile and apparel ex-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

EXPERT ARTICLE porting units. However, its impact is neither seen nor future visible demand due to much-reduced consumption which is now shifted out for more essential daily life products.

COTTON AND COTTON YARN SECTORIAL IMPACT 1.COTTON Quintals of cotton remain unsold in the largest cotton-producing states of Maharashtra and Gujarat which are also the most affected COVID hit states. Cotton growers in Maharashtra and Gujarat are yet to offload their produce due to movement restrictions. According

to government estimates, growers in both states have at least 3.2 Mln quintals of unsold kapas (raw unginned seed cotton), and) textile mills still working at 25-35% capacity levels and, monsoon approaching, farmers will be unable to sell their 2019 produce.

In this forlorn scenario for cotton growers, it has been a great relief that the Govt s Cotton Corporation has already bought 10.5 million bales of Cotton directly, as part of the center’s Relief package YARN SPINNING SECTOR Indian spinners stare at $3-billion loss BY FY21.

As per Icra, the Covid-19 pandemic is hitting the domestic cotton yarn spinning sector hard, with its performance in FY21 likely to be at multi-year lows. Also, amid severe demand disruptions, pressure on realizations as well as contribution margins, the operating income of cotton spinners is expected to decline 15-20% on a year-on-year basis, while the operating margins are estimated to correct by 200400 bps for the full year hopefully

by FY21, compared to the FY20 levels, subject to and very conditional to some revival in new export demand form Nov.2020 onwards

LOOK GOOD AND FEEL SAFE

Danielle Flanagan Assistant Professor/ Programme Coordinator ITM Institute of Design and Media

Modern surgical masks

are made from paper or

other non-woven material and should be dis-

carded after each use.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

R

emembering the Importance of the Surgical Face Mask and making it a Symbol of our Times.

If there is a symbol of the current world’s situation of turmoil, confusion, fear, misinformation, panic, and anxiety, generated by the spread of the new coronavirus, it is the surgical face mask.

Surgical masks have become an indelible part of daily life under lockdown Remembering the mask, its those white or baby blue rectangles that

cover the mouth and nose, turning everyone into a muzzled pelican, or duck-faced. This is not how history is going to remember the pandemic of 2020.

There are a number of changes in the way the face mask is shaping society as we speak.

It is used for a number of reasonsHealth being the first.

Health and Protection.

For the past few months, public health officials have advised peo-

25

EXPERT ARTICLE ple to wear masks as a way to protect themselves from coronavirus.

It does some benefit to covering our faces in public and reduces the chances of getting infected.

Due to the widespread pandemic, the masks began appearing almost immediately after the infection was identified. People all over the world started purchasing masks for protection. It has become a common sight on the streets of cities like New York and London in recent weeks.

Though wearing them has long been the norm in Asian capitals like Tokyo and Hanoi.

Even more than bottles of hand sanitizer and disinfectant wipes, the mask has become the virus’s avatar or mascot; shorthand for the desire to hide, inability to protect ourselves, and desire to do something — anything— to appear to take action.

But the main question a lot of people have due to peer pressure and government urgency is “Whether to ‘wear or not to wear a mask” as many do not like being told what to do. Some even find is unnecessary and ugly.

As a lot of people have doubts as to its effectiveness Still, it’s important to not totally do away with the mask. The World Health Organization emphasizes that face masks cannot protect against the Coronavirus when used alone and that they are only effective if used in combination with frequent hand washing.

Masks should be worn if you have a cough or fever or by those who are taking care of a person with suspected COVID 19 infections. Or to shield yourself from crowds.

An approach being emphasized, because hoardings of the masks by average citizens led to severe shortages for medical professionals who needed them the most.

Everyone agreed that the available supply of medical masks should be

26

reserved for hospitals and emergency workers, so if you wanted to wear a mask, you would have to make it yourself. That’s where people started making their own and customizing it thus making it a strong symbol of our time!

How did “what is essentially some gauze held on by straps”, take on so much meaning?

The ‘Mask’ has represented safety and protection from disease and pollution; solidarity; protest; racism; a fashion trend; and now, pandemic. They have been, said Christos Lynteris, a medical anthropologist at the University of St. Andrews in Scotland, a sign of “something that hides but also communicates.” It is, he said, “an interesting dialectic, and one very dependent on context.”

In the world of Fashion……

In a matter of time, fashion took note — fashion always does, when it comes to items that signal identity — and sensing opportunity rose to meet it in so many ways. Fashion has always drawn inspiration from what’s going on in the world, and in 2020 this is no different. Even before the coronavirus was reported in December 2019, avant-garde fashion designers had already included a new accessory in their collections: the face mask. This trend has established itself and fashion enthusiasts are wearing them more than ever.

While the use of these fashionable face masks is not advised as a preventative measure, if you’re looking for inspiration to look a bit more trendy, look no further than the attendees of major fashion events and the runways of London, Paris, New York City, and Milan.

Most designers took to making their own masks, Prada, Cos, Zara, Mango, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, and other leading fashion brands are retooling to manufacture surgical face masks in response to

the shortages caused by COVID 19. Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga began production of cotton face masks, thus, wearing a mask, has not only become a norm but a fashion statement.

A number of brands too are putting a creative twist on the newly ubiquitous items, hoping to inject some color and positivity into an otherwise sobering perhaps even scary item.

Other brands with unique face masks are namely Lekko, Freka, Vogmask, Scough, Tecmask, Airpop, G95 Bioscarf.

The Qiaodan Yin Peng Sportswear collection put face masks on the runway during China Fashion Week in 2014. Masha Ma, a Chinese designer showing in Paris, featured a Swarovski-studded look in her spring 2015 show.

Masks were adopted as expressions of — or challenges to — creative identity by the rappers Ayleo and Mateo Bowles (Ayo & Teo), who started wearing them, reportedly because people were making fun of their facial expressions; soon it had become their signature accessory.

Future and his daughter wore matching elaborate gem-studded masks to the 2017 BET awards as a promo for his performance of “Mask Off.” Zoe Dupree, the stylist for Young Thug, christened the styles “Smog Couture.”

Over the last three years, brands including Off-White, Palm Angels, Bathing Ape, and Fendi have offered designer face masks. Gucci made one for Billie Eilish wear with her all-Gucci look at the Grammys, as part of her message that her body is her own, for her eyes only.

Less than a month ago, celebrities and models began to post selfies in their masks on social media — most often from airplanes, but also from the street. Bella Hadid on her flight out of Milan, in a fedora, scarf,

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

EXPERT ARTICLE and surgical face mask. There was Gwyneth Paltrow en route to Paris in a black Nemen x Airinum breathing mask.

Today there are pages and pages of face masks on Etsy. Most of them are simply pieces of fabric with straps, decorated with puppy dogs, Wonder Woman, Star Wars, rain-

To conclude, because we attribute so much meaning to the human face and its expressions, to cover it, to hide what is the most naked, accessible, part of yourself, can be deeply unsettling and alienating to those around us.

In the past, the masks made many viewers uneasy, but not this sea-

protecting ourselves but protecting others from ourselves and being one in the war to fight against the deadly virus.

“A mask creates a barrier between you and the world,” It protects you, but it also means you can’t get close to someone.

For most designers who sell masks and the rich community as a whole, it’s an awkward conversation to have. To sell masks at a premium, as many brands do, during a crisis, can seem like profiteering. Not to mention a perpetuating of class difference. Who can afford to pay for the protection of their choice?

Perhaps we will reach the point where wearing a mask will be seen, as it is in Asia, as a sign of care and a gesture of community. Where wearing a mask is not a sign of fear and difference, but of human commonality. Perhaps they will remain an uneasy subject, representation of a cratering society.

bows, and other designs, and ranging from $6.99 to about $40. It is often described as “the real musthave accessory, both in terms of utility and coolness, of the 21st century.”

More recently, during the Hong Kong pro-democracy protests, face masks (and especially black face masks) were worn as both a political statement and as a tool for disguising identity from closed-circuit TV cameras. They became so popular that the government went so far as to try to ban them, immediately elevating them to a symbol of revolt.

Masks as part of our daily lives now….

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

son. “People were more and more enthusiastic about it,” “But it’s not really a positive thing, I think.” Sad to say we have to live in a toxic world where the mask has now become our only tool for protection, but this is not how our future is going to look.

We find most often the mask is used as a countermeasure to cover up what we don’t want from the outside world, be it pollution, or for religious purposes, to hide from being noticed.

A lot is always made about the eyes being the window to the soul and blah blah blah, but the mouth is as important a guide to emotions. It’s part of how we read one another’s feelings. The mask is a form of expression to show we are not just

And either way, they are not going away. “Masks are very hard to get now.” And when things become scarce, they also become “very desirable.”

The future of our world is changing, the mask being a very strong symbol of today only shows us how toxic our planet has become. Fashion has brought a fresh perspective by making a normal surgical mask that is so unsatisfying and sad to turning it into a fashion accessory to bring colour and positive change. Let’s look at this aspect and bring ourselves up and still find hope in the crises we are in today. we all just need to think positively and act with caution. Our earth is crying out for help. Let’s all listen and work together to make this world a better place.

27

EXPERT ARTICLE

TESTING THE QUALITY OF FACE MASKS

A

surgical mask, also known as a procedure mask, medical mask, or simply as a face mask, is intended to be worn by health professionals during surgery and during nursing to catch the bacteria shed in liquid droplets and aerosols from the wearer’s mouth and nose. They are designed to protect the wearer from inhaling airborne bacteria or virus particles but are less effective than respirators, such as N95 or FFP masks, which provide better protection due to their material, shape, and tight seal.

Jeyaraman Anandhakumar Lecturer,

Department of Textile Processing, GRG Polytechnic College

Fashion has brought a

fresh per-spective by

making a normal surgical mask that is so

unsatisfyingand sad to

turning it into a fashionaccessory to bring

colour and positive change.

Surgical masks vary by quality and levels of protection. Despite their name, not all surgical masks are appropriate to be used during surgeries. Surgical masks may be labeled as surgical, isolation, dental, or medical procedure masks. Chinese health officials distinguish between medical (non-surgical) and surgical masks.

A surgical mask is a loose-fitting, disposable device that creates a physical barrier between the mouth and nose of the wearer and potential contaminants in the immediate environment. If worn properly, a surgical mask is meant to help block large-particle droplets, splashes, sprays, or splatter that may contain viruses and bacteria, keeping it from reaching the wearer’s mouth and nose.[Surgical masks may also help reduce exposure of the wearer’s saliva and respiratory secretions to others that could otherwise travel up to 26 feet. The surgical mask also remind wearers not to touch their mouth or nose, which could otherwise transfer viruses and bacteria after having touched a contaminated surface.

Figure 1. Differences between the face mask and respirator

28

A surgical mask, by design, does not filter or block very small particles in the air that may be transmitted by coughs, sneezes, or certain medical procedures. Surgical masks also do not provide complete protection from germs and other contaminants because of the loose fit between the surface of the face mask and the face.

A surgical mask is not to be confused with a respirator and is not certified as such. Surgical masks are not designed to protect the wearer from inhaling airborne bacteria or virus particles and are less effective than respirators, which are designed for this purpose. Collection efficiency of surgical mask filters can range from less than 10% to nearly 90% for different manufacturers’ masks when measured using the test parameters for NIOSH certification. However, a study found that even for surgical masks with “good” filters, 80–100% of subjects failed an OSHA-accepted qualitative fit test, and a quantitative test showed 12–25% leakage.

Modern surgical masks are made from paper or other non-woven material and should be discarded after each use.

DESIGN OF SURGICAL MASK The design of the surgical masks depends on the mode; usually, the masks are three-ply (three layers).

This three-ply material is made up of a melt-blown polymer, most commonly polypropylene, placed between non-woven fabrics. The melt-blown material acts as the filter that stops microbes from entering or exiting the mask. Pleats are commonly used to allow the user to expand the mask such that it covers the area from the nose to the chin. The masks are secured to the head with ear loops, head ties, or elastic straps.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

EXPERT ARTICLE TABLE 1 Comparisons of Respirators and Medical Masks Parameters

N95 Filtering Facepiece Respirator

Medical Mask

Intended use

Reduce wearer’s inhalation exposure to cer- To protect both the surgical patient tain airborne particles < 100 µm and operating personnel from expired respiratory droplets from the wearer

Use limitations

Subject to considerations of hygiene, damage, One-time use and increased breathing resistance. Use may extend beyond 8 hours only if it is demonstrated that extended use will not degrade filter efficiency and total mass loading of a filter is less than 200 mg.

Filter elements

Nonreplaceable

Nonreplaceable

Filter efficiency

95%

Particle and bacterial filtration efficiency quality indicator

Testing aerosol and Sodium chloride test aerosol with a mass me- Polystyrene latex sphere test aerosol particle size dian aerodynamic diameter particle of about approx 0.1 µm and Staph. aureus fil0.3 µm tration test, per ASTM standard (PFE) Airflow rate

85 L/min

28 L/min

Test aerosol

Charge neutralized test aerosol

Unneutralized test aerosol

Preconditioning

Preconditioning at 85% relative humidity and No preconditioning 38°C for 24 hrs

Face seal fit

Designed to fit tightly to face

Not designed to fit to face

Annual fit-test required Fit check ments

require- Required with each use

Not designed for fit check

Source: National Personal Protective Technology Laboratory

TESTING / REGULATION TABLE 2 FACE MASK TESTING PARAMETERS TESTING PARAMETERS

PROCEDURE

Fluid resistance

The ability of the mask to resist the penetration of blood and body fluids.

According to ASTM F 1862, surgical masks are tested on a pass/fail basis at three velocities corresponding to the range of human blood pressure (80, 120, 160 mm Hg). Surgical masks that show passing results at higher velocities are more fluid resistant.

Barrier for bacteria

Bacterial Filtration Efficiency (BFE) is a measure of the ability of the mask’s material to prevent the passage of aerosolized bacteria.

Flammability

There are many potential ignition sources in the operating room, including surgical lasers, electrosurgical units, endoscopic fiberoptics, and high-energy electromedical devices.

A respiratory barrier for A surgical respirator is fitted to the user’s face, forming a seal that provides a physibacteria cal barrier to fluids, particulate materials, and aerosols.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

29

EXPERT ARTICLE Air exchange (differen- Differential Pressure (Delta-P) is the measured pressure drop across a surgical face tial pressure) mask material. Delta-P determines the resistance of the surgical face mask to air flowing through the mask.

Pressure drop also relates to the breathability and comfort of the surgical mask. A lower Delta-P translates to increased breathability.

CONCLUSION The major differences between medical masks and respirators are their intended uses and levels of protection. A medical mask is intended to protect others from large droplets exhaled or released by the wearer. It is also designed to protect the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s respiratory tract from splashes of body fluids that may unexpectedly occur in the clinical setting. In contrast, a respirator is designed to protect

30

the wearer from hazardous contaminants in the air. Most N95 filtering facepiece respirators are not designed to protect the wearer from splashes of body fluids. However, some N95 filtering facepiece respirators (called surgical N95 respirators) have this additional feature as well as regulated by the FDA. Medical masks and N95 filtering facepiece respirators are considered disposal devices and are not designed for either extended use or reuse after cleaning and dis-

infection. When selecting a personal protective device for healthcare workers and the public for protection against an airborne infection, an N95 filtering facepiece is likely to be both the least expensive and the most widely available, However, some of these alternatives may be considered prohibitive in terms of cost, training required, ease of use, and/or the availability in sufficient quantities to protect healthcare workers and the public in the event of a pandemic.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

EXPERT ARTICLE

CORONA POSITIVE… A BLESSING!!!

AVINASH MAYEKAR Managing Director and CEO SUVIN ADVISORS PRIVATE LIMITED

D

ear Industry colleagues,

CORONA that is “COVID19” is considered as a great disaster and a big loss of opportunities by entire world. However, I feel the entire world would take this as a major tool to fight against Chinese behaviour. India should take a big lead in this initiative having an upper edge placed as a great friendly nation to most of the countries which have been badly affected by this virus.

As all of us are aware COVID19 has been originated in China and it appears that China has deliberately kept it as a secret so that they will not be blamed for originating this disease and at the same time they will use this opportunity in their favour.

However, by now the picture is crystal clear, and I am sure there would be a great movement across the globe against China & Chinese products. Main industries that would be in limelight would be Heath care and textile industry.

India has already shown its great strength in textile and apparel industry by its number two position in the entire trade. At the same time we are known for quality products and having advantage of cheap labour costs. Indian brands are now getting good visibility in the international market. We are in a good position against the competition from other countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia, Sri Lanka

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

and many other upcoming markets when it comes to overall textile and apparel trade.

All said and done in order to teach a lesson to China, entire globe, especially many countries which have been suffered drastically by COVID19 virus need to show their strong feelings by avoiding or rather boycotting Chinese products.

On the other hand the countries which have been totally affected by this virus need many products to recover from the damage such as medical equipment, medical textiles, apparels, home textiles, and many other products in order to cure the affected people. At the same time a lot of textile material which is been used during this virus affected period needs to be totally replaced by new products.

The major countries which have been affected are USA, Italy, Spain, France, Germany and almost 200 other countries.

If we work out the population of the people which have been affected because of this virus we will understand the huge replacement consumption of necessary textiles materials in use by the affected people. The mere conscience of precaution will kick in generating the utmost self-care in the COVID victims & affected areas leading to consumption of new garments & other materials in the better days.

Today 12th April 2020, there are almost 1.2 million COVID19 patients, an average of 60 new garments per person per year in developed countries and assuming 3 persons per home and $2000 per annum consumption like USA will lead to substantial consumption of new garments Moreover, there will be a requirement of infrastructure development in most of the cities which are badly damaged such as New York, New Jersey, Texas, Atlantic city, Las Vegas, Carolina, Arizona in USA. Milan, Venice, Genoa in Italy. Tehran, Qom, Mazandaran in Iran. Madrid, Catalonia, Andalusia in Spain. Paris, Grand ESP in France, Berlin, Munich, Hamburg, Cologne in Germany.

London, Manchester in United Kingdom If we consider all these factors, there is a great demand which would be created because of COVID19 Other than these major international countries even within India a lot of damage has already happened and most of us would be taking care of health related measures. Hence, medical textiles could be one of the major focus area in future & the requirements will increase multifold. Similarly facial mask, caps, bed sheets, pillow covers, towels, napkins, slippers, bath mats etc. and other medical textiles will be in a great demand.

Along with that we also need to re-

31

EXPERT ARTICLE plenish our costumes which were used during this period.There would be a lot of psychological pressure on all of us to use new textile material and dispose-off old.

NEWS

There are many industrial losses which are happening during this period and hence overall demand for the workwear fabric and garments along with boiler suits, etc. would also drastically go up and

they will need it on priority. Hence, I feel “CORONA POSITIVE” is a phrase to be used especially for textile and apparel industry as a blessing and not at all as a curse. We at Suvin Advisors Private Limited (Suvin) are geared up to give various statistics which would be based on major facts to enable our clients to choose the right product to come out with international quality norms and produce textile products which

would meet global demands during this particular period. Hence, let us plan our strategy and growth plans by which we can make CORONA as a positive trend for our Indian textile and apparel industry…

We can give tailor made solutions to modernize existing textile plant to take up this new challenge…

Let us inculcate … A CORONA POSITIVE attitude!!!

COVID-19 IMPACT: BATA INDIA STOPS LIMITING AND COST INCREMENT APPROACH POST LOCKDOWN Sandeep Kataria, CEO of Bata India, in a press instruction by the organization’s senior administration.

While Bata India has slowed down designs to open any new store in the following 3-6 months, the footwear creator has put resources into extending its item portfolio to remain applicable. The organization as of late propelled new verticals, for example, Work-From-Home range with slip-on and shoes, an assortment of launderable footwear, and hostile to viral covers for grown-ups and youngsters.

BENGALURU: Shoemaker Bata India will cease from both limiting and expanding item cost as well-known strategies to make up for income misfortune looked because of lockdown and ascend in working expense of its physical stores in the new typical. “We are keeping up pre-COVID valuing for our items despite an expansion in our operational cost post lockdown. We are not limiting as we don’t need clients to surge back and swarm the stores amid social removing,” said

32

About 53% of the shoemaker’s physical stores have revived for business with confined assistance hours since April 27, beginning with conditions of Goa and Kerala.

As per Kataria, stores in neighborhoods performed better than those on the high road. Level 2, 3, and 5 markets indicated quicker recuperation and accomplished pre-COVID numbers in the underlying period of reviving retail. Green shoots are, be that as it may, expected in September and the accompanying happy period, the organization noted. “Need-based basics, for example, home footwear, footwear for developing youngsters, sports shoes for preparing at home, and items beneath Rs 1000 are being recharged in the present stage.

Style footwear will get in September,” said Kataria.

While Bata India has slowed down designs to open any new store in the following 3-6 months, the footwear producer has put resources into growing its item portfolio to remain pertinent. The organization as of late propelled new verticals, for example, Work-From-Home range

with slip-on and shoes, an assortment of launderable footwear, and hostile to viral veils for grown-ups and kids.

“We are propelling purifying splashes and wipes for packs and footwear in June,” included Kataria.

Growing web-based business impressions is another key concentration for the organization for the rest of the year. Home shopping with WhatsApp visit, a pilot propelled fourteen days prior, is set to be turned out to the remainder of the nation.

“Albeit 95% of our system was shut down and recuperation will be moderate, Bata will keep on putting resources into India advertise. We have had three fruitful years as an organization,” said Alberto Toni, CFO of Bata Group.

Bata India revealed a 56.68 percent decrease in merged net benefit at Rs 38.40 crore for the final quarter finished March 2020 due to Covid-19 instigated lockdown. The organization had posted a net benefit of Rs 88.66 crore in January-March quarter a year back, expressed a BSE documenting.

FacebookTwitterEmailLinkedInPinterestWhatsAppCopy LinkWeChat

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COMPANY STARTUP

KARANA TO MAKE REUSABLE MASK ACQUIRING COMFORT AND BREATHABILITY

W

ith the Covid-19 pandemic forcing a high demand for respiratory masks, we at Karana, we typically make vastly different

products are dropping everything and switching to one common cause: produce as many masks to help fight the pandemic as possible. By pivoting to make face masks, we are finding a way to keep our business going while also serving a great need. It’s a win-win for “nonessential” small businesses that face an uncertain future.

With the Karana face mask, you can expect super comfort and are reusable and washable. The masks are triple-layered made from the softest cotton and thin elastics that won’t leave your ear lobes sore after long use. Also they are for personal use only, and not a substitute for surgical-grade masks required by health care workers or those handling COVID patients. For every mask we sell, we donate 1 to an underprivileged child.

Moreover, we are planning to make masks out of leftover fabric from the products we design to make them stylish. Maybe, we will get criticism because their purpose is medical and serious. But we think making even the most functional items in our lives beautiful has the power to brighten our spirits, make us smile, help us feel more like ourselves, and express our unique personalities.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

These masks not only ensure the protection of people from coronavirus but also give a means of livelihood to our local helpers. We look forward to giving employment to less privileged people. who are satisfied with their work and are local. In this pandemic we focus on providing them with the jobs so that they can earn their livelihood.

We have encouraged them to fight against corona by keeping them busy in making masks. Earlier, they weren’t able to give a contribution to their family, but now they can support them financially.

kin pouches, tunics.

Being a sustainable fashion brand,

Now, coming to our primary motive,

Karana was created from a simple idea – Turn fabric scraps into opportunity! We are a sustainabilityforward brand and we know that a truly conscious company needs to consider both people and the planet before, during, and after production. Playing with the leftovers is a great way to spruce up old worn out or damaged materials into a brand spanking new piece. Every single piece is made from 100% scrap material. We intend to be something beyond a style brand – we care for your fashion needs and the environment at the same time.

Some of our best-selling products are scrunchies, tops, sanitary nap-

we find ways to reduce textile waste. We explain to our audience how it is affecting our environment by putting stories on our social media handles.

At present, we are dealing with numerous fabrics that are environmentally friendly and 100% vegan.

Shop with us better by knowing about the fabrics we use. The most used ones are organic cotton and rayon which are natural and super comfy to wear. Moreover, they can withstand heat, detergents, and bleach. Then, we used denim that is long-lasting and wrinkle resistant.

We manipulated georgette too for making some of our tops and it is an all-climate fabric. You can wear it all year round, but it is specially worn in summers and spring.

33

INTERVIEW

COVID19 IMPACT ON THE COMPANIES

A

s we all know the current pandemic going on across the globe which has had a huge impact on the textile industry. On the same concern, we asked companies and owners to share their views on how it had impacted their firm and how they deal with the situation.

Manoshi Kamdar – Aara Inc. About Aara Inc At Aara Inc., sustainability remains at the heart of all our work.

In order to reduce our carbon footprint, we are continually developing and using sustainable design and printing techniques. We are committed to reducing fabric wastage through smart design. We work with ethical manufacturing partners and are committed to educating ourselves and our clients about sustainable practices at every stage of the design process.

Ultimately, what’s good for Mother Nature is always en vogue.

How are your business’s operations being impacted by COVID-19?

Like all, our operations have been affected. Delayed payments and canceled orders being the biggest.

We had remote working provisions in place so that was a transition however, a lot of brands are buckling down and unwilling to plan future collections which have definitely impacted us.

34

Which ways have been implemented by you to keep a connection with your customers and provide the service?

As mentioned, we had work from home provisions in place so moving things virtual was easy. Additionally, a lot of our clients are abroad so it was easy to transition.

We have been in constant contact with our clients ensuring that they have the required support through this tough time. Additionally, we have moved our print sales to our online shop and are offering video consults. We have also used our digital platforms to promote positivity and spread relevant information which has been helpful to a lot of brands.

What measures have been implemented by your firm to overcome the scenario from your end?

As we started entering lockdown we realized this wasn’t the time to pitch sales. We changed our strategy to brand building, providing relevant content, and strategizing for the future. We have made provisions to be able to provide most of our services digitally going forward.

However, we had to eliminate a lot of external and marketing costs in order to sail through while we strategized for the future. There is a lot of uncertainty so it is quite difficult to establish a concrete way forward.

What are your suggestions for the government to consider?

An SME or a financial package would be very helpful for business especially in garment/textile manufacturing. Support for businesses to ensure they don’t have to lay off or cut salaries.

Saloni Sinha- Tarasha About Tarasha: Tarasha is a line of Handcrafted Accessories Brand.

Our range celebrates traditional craft techniques with a focus on timeless designs, thus aiming to provide a platform for skilled artisans to showcase their handwork.

Founder Saloni Sinha, a Post Graduate from London College of Fashion strongly supports Slow Fashion & truly believes in working at the grass-root level, along with the artisans to create beautiful products using indigenous craft technology & locally sourced Raw Materials.

How are your business operations being impacted by COVID-19?

Through our online channels, we are open to orders but will be able to resume the dispatch services, once the lockdown is lifted and the situation is under control. Since we are a craft-based brand, most of our artisans are continuing to work within the premises of their homes for next season. Their safety is our utmost priority and I am glad that they are able to earn livelihoods while working from their home. This is a crucial time for all of us, I am using this time to learn more about the expected consumer shifts, planning & restructuring our business model.

Which ways have been implemented by you to keep a

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

INTERVIEW connection with your customers & provide the service?

We all are in a situation where everyone is spending so more time on their screens, and connecting through social media has become the new norm. At this time it is so much more crucial to maintain human connections than to just hard sell products. We are trying to curate photo series/ archives based on various themes, to remain positively connected to our customers.

In maintaining connections, transparency plays a crucial role at this point, and providing information about our procedures at every level will be our goal.

speople to give up their crafts and work in other industries to secure incomes. It is crucial to saving Crafts because of the intangible Cultural Value they carry. Initiatives like bulk buying fabrics from artisans for making masks, and involving them in their capacity to overcome this crisis would be great, as this would keep their cash flows positive.

that undoubtedly will arise once society gets a chance to recoup.

The biggest problem right now for everyone is to save lives without destroying livelihoods, for which we all as responsible citizens, must find ways to make the lockdown effective to help in containing the virus in a short time.

How are your businessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s operations being impacted by COVID-19?

On the front end, we are working with our delivery partners on providing contactless delivery & safe packaging.

What are your suggestions for the govt? to consider?

We do believe that the government & authorities are doing their best in terms of crisis response. Healthcare, Infrastructure, Distribution of Key Supplies needs to be reformed.

It will be great to see Government coming forward for the craft sector, which has already suffered losses due to the cancellation of many events this year. Financial packages must cover the artisans & the government should provide interest-free loans to the artisans.

A crisis like these could force craft-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

Prabhu Dhamodharan- Head at Indian Texpreneurs Federation

All of the member companies are in complete lockdown and everyone facing financial and payment issues.

Which ways have been implemented by you to keep a connection with your customers and provide the service?

What measures have been implemented by your firm to overcome the scenario from your end?

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really difficult to predict things now. We are constantly in touch with our artisans, keeping a check at their situation & trying to make them aware of the precautions from our end. We are working on our merchandise plan, with a major focus on sustainability at all levels.

We have stopped the production of a few product lines to avoid dead stock later.

I urge the government to consider just how seriously a small business wishes to comply not only to survive but to be of service to the public and the economy.

Our members are in constant touch with all the stakeholders including the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Reg the orders in the pipeline, payments, and future plans while keeping the current COVID turbulence in mind.

Debora Haklin- The artful dressmaker As an independent bespoke designer/ businesswoman I have built my business on a strong one to one relationship with each and every one of my clients.

Since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, I am proud to say that I have been able to deepen that bond by keeping communication open and clear with my clients and providing any support I can. Since I am a one-woman business, I have been able to maintain sewing operations. Changes made were to cease in-person fittings but to offer FaceTime appointments for custom clothing inquiries, as well as providing video updates of dress progress to those clients whose work was already in process. My intent is to be rested and ready for the resurgence of sewing needs

What measures have been implemented by your firm to overcome the scenario from your end?

Engaging with customers to understand the happenings and also communicating continuously with all stakeholders including employees to keep the positivity.

What are your suggestions for the government to consider for the betterment of the industry and to handle the situation keeping in mind the textile/garment sector as it has been impacted to a great extent?

Reg Finance and Banking 1. Extend the moratorium period of all loan and interest payments to one year 2. Repackage the pending loans during the moratorium period as two-year term loans.

3. Offering 30 % Additional working

35

INTERVIEW capital limit to infuse liquidity and help the textile and apparel companies to restart the operations.

How are your business’s operations being impacted by COVID-19?

4. 3 % interest subvention for laborintensive sectors

All of the member companies are in complete lockdown and everyone facing financial and payment issues .

5.

Specific export incentive schemes for the entire value chain of textile products for a Two year period to I’m over our export competitiveness.

6. Adding yarn and fabrics in the export incentive scheme to promote exports and help the companies to export the surplus production 7. Strategic plans to use the Post COVID opportunity to grow our textile and apparel exports

Which ways have been implemented by you to keep connection with your customers and provide them service?

Our members are in constant touch with all the stakeholders including the customers Reg the orders in pipeline , payments and future plans while keeping the current COVID turbulence in mind.

What measures has been implemented by your firm to overcome the scenario from your end?

Engaging with customers to understand the happenings and also communicating continuously with all stakeholders including employees to keep the positivity .

Prabhu Dhamodharan- Head at Indian Texpreneurs Federation

What are your suggestions for government to consider for betterment of the industry and to handle the situation keeping in mind the

textile/garment sector as it has been impacted to a great extent?

Reg Finance and Banking 1. Extend the moratorium period of all loan and interest payments to one year 2. Repackage the pending loans during moratorium period as two year term loans .

3. Offering 30 % Additional working capital limit to infuse liquidity and help the textile and apparel companies to re start the operations.

4. 3 % interest subvention for labour intensive sectors 5.

Specific export incentive schemes for rhe entire value chain of textile products for a Two year period to I’m over our export competitiveness.

6. Adding yarn and fabrics in export incentive scheme to promote exports and help the companies to export the surplus production 7. Strategic plans to use the Post COVID opportunity to grow our textile and apparel exports

NEWS

SWIMWEAR BRAND ZUMO NOW SELLING CUSTOM FACE MASKS

Z

umo, a manufacturer of custom sublimated swimwear, apparel, and accessories for competitive swimmers, has announced a new collection of custom face masks designed for everyday use. The company hopes to help address the widespread need for reliable face coverings, as well as to offer businesses a better solution for

36

protecting their employees and patrons. The Centres for Disease Control and Prevention recommends that all individuals wear a face mask when out in public to mitigate the spread of Covid-19. However, the company suggested that it can be difficult to find form-fitting face coverings that look professional and don’t need to be tossed after just one use. Zumo offers masks for sale that provide a better solution.

The masks are made with breathable fabrics and expertly fitted for comfortable wear. They can also be customised for organisations that are looking to showcase their brand while promoting safe practices. Zumo’s long-standing ex-

perience with custom-designed swimwear means they have the expertise to create custom face masks with a business’s logo or design. Each mask is made with two layers of breathable polyester and PBT fabric and can be machine washed and dried for convenient sanitisation. Zumo face masks secure to the face with adjustable elastic bands, effectively covering both nose and mouth for maximum protection.

Both custom face masks and those in the Zumo face mask collection are available in a range of sizes to meet the needs of customers and businesses.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

INTERVIEW

MEDICAL TEXTILE MANUFACTURS

SUDARSHAN RAJAGOPALAN SPLENDOUR MEDICARE TECHNOLOGIES, COIMBATORE – TAMILNADU. • B.TEXT (ENG), MS UNIVERSITY, BARODA, • MBA (MARKETING/ FINANCE) – BHARATIYAR UNIVERSITY, COIMBATORE. • Ph.D. (STRATEGIC MANAGEMENT) UNDER PROGRESS.

S

plendour Medicare Technologies is a Technology & Engineering adopting solution provider in the domain of infection control.

There are scopes to innovate and solve routine problems with Technical & Medical textiles for Environment, Health, and Hygiene.

We are manufacturing Surgical Drapes & Kits. We simultaneously develop the undefined & optimal process for this industry which will be helpful while making products of higher-order in this industry. We are ISO 13485 compliant and hopefully be a truly CE/ FDA Compliant organization with our own process/ safety compliance with our known engineering acumen.

Our USP is thinking ahead for a product, process, safety, compli-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

ance for a sustainable model in Technical & Medical Textiles. The Strategic-System thinking, the experience of making numerous Management Models for product reach out, hands-on experience in promotion & commercialization of technology & engineering products, Design-Thinking with accrued Knowledge on newer researched materials, integrating capabilities are our strengths on which we will venture forward. We hope to try in building our Financial Acumen and network for sales since that will be the binding factor in the build of such magnum opus. We will hope to contribute to the 5 trillion economies targeted by the leadership.

Are you already in this product manufacturing or started after lockdown?

We have three-decade of tracking, working, and even failing in the promotion of technical textiles. We have promoted many MNCs products including likes of DuPont, W L Gore & Associates and also developed products with Anti-microbial, Viral & Fungal in Textiles or surfaces for infection control. We have also had experience in facilitating the first Waste to Energy project too where a polyester waste was turned into fuel (Syngas) and used as low BTU fuel to form steam that could recover water from phenolic effluent water. We had marketed and promoted many Textile implants, wound dressing, and a gamut of technical & Medical products. We proudly failed in many of the launches which seemed to be ahead of the market capitalization. We have grown in this over the last five years. These failures are our absolute foundation for the launches today with grit, confidence, and maybe de-cluttered thought in our attempt today. We

are already home on that front.

The pandemic has exposed our lack of infrastructure to handle many of the crises. Post-lock-down we will build on the infrastructure, raise funds for such product developments. We intend to make a start-up company for the development of Advanced Textiles for Technical / Medical Textiles.

Our Strength stems from the work we have done over the one and half decades of experiments with this sector.

What is the inspiration for starting a new line in spite of lockdown?

Our thought was – If not for us, who else? We as Textile Engineers had to be the foot soldiers in this war against the pandemics.

We worked all day except where there were material shortages or stressed on post deliveries. We helped many manufacturing units to open up since we had the tag of a Medical textile manufacturing.

We co-ordinated with DIC and other state & Central agencies; to contribute with our inputs, information, knowledge, and scope to tide the situation. We have quickly adapted to the changes. We moved out from making facemasks and coverall soon when we saw more people with better infrastructure jumped into the arena. We moved up the notch by becoming a supplier of PPE fabrics with advanced materials (Micro-pore) at economical pricing.

How you have managed operations, HR, marketing within a short period of time?

Our regular hospitals were ordering their requirements for the COVID19. Our unit stayed operational all though the lockdown period. We were a small team of operation-

37

INTERVIEW al workers. They already followed many of the isolation disciplines for Medical Textile manufacturing.

Some of the added self-defined protocols of social distancing were enacted. Later the GOI had all of them published for all. We had informed the team that in the war against the pandemic; we can win only when we kill the enemy and not by getting killed.

We also brought tailors within a factory premise and quarantined them for work. We fed and secured them in many ways. DIC, MSME Chennai Office (In-charge for essential commodities), Textile Committee, Textile Commissioners office were all proactive in the support needed. Our own marketing network was active to supply the hospital-based supplies. We did not venture into the HLL contract since there were too many variations in the qualifications and we were without the financial capacity to manage those changes technically qualification were skewed to and it favored the larger industries to bid for the same.

Do you feel the same opportunity will be there after COVID 19 also?

You will continue the operations and marketing of the same?

The scope post COVID19 has expanded. Life has changed and many more developments and new products will have to emerge under the challenge. Those ideas which were resisted earlier due to need-deficit or price and sometimes lethargy to get them implemented; will become mandated.

Hence, there is too much to do for sure to be capitalized.

Getting organized in this chaos is a challenge. We are trying to raise our bar and see this as tremendous opportunities to do what we have either conceived or failed during the past.

We will continue our journey but we will definitely contemplate a start

38

up which can produce those advanced materials which were contemplated as “Not in our Era” to be fast-forwarded to the near future.

How do you ensure to retain your customers after the lockdown?

We will continue our services. We have relationships that counted even before the COVID19. We are known to be technical and we will be further revered to serve them with newer and technologically advanced materials.

We may be challenged by the excessive supplies by many local supplies; we will ensure we give the best with our product with the technical acumen which we are sure will entice the customers to continue with us more so after the pandemic.

State about Vendors’ and buyer’s requirements for products. Any specific technical expertise requirement?

One realization is we need more infrastructure and eco-system.

Money is the primary need which will go a long way in building the infrastructure needed within the organization. The hospitals, the government, banks, rolled goods manufacturers, machine manufacturers, and other accessories manufacturers or traders; all of them have to be pro-active if the advantage has to sustain within India.

We may curse China for many of its doings and pledge to stay away but we can be sure when the dust settles unless we make our effort; China can become potent again.

It is in our exert that we will survive and dominate too; if odds are with us.

How many quality checks are done before these products are sent out to the market?

We have been an ISO13485, safety is essential for the product. Risks manifestation and tracking faulty

issues to the source are inbuilt in our activities. However, we were challenged by other key issues of supplies, resources including the common testing facilities at SITRA. Most references are compared to other perishable products like drugs and food. Medical Textiles are mostly synthetic and substrates are relatively inert; however to prevent any proliferating of the bio-loads we need to have a system that is validated for Medical Textiles. The prudent trans-implementation of the Pharmacopeia will have to find a re-engineered approach in India.

Personally when ETO/EO sterilization gas was not available during the lock-down period; we adopted our own method of hiring an Ozone gas generator to fill the kits before dispatch. That is the little we could do at that time.

How do you make sure to maximize the production of these essentials keeping in mind the quality is up to government standards?

Did Government Support you in this new initiative?

The government put up standards for emergencies. The fraternity has churned up issues of the recommendations which have let to even cement bag laminated sheets fabrics getting approved for PPE applications. They may approve on one parameter but the other could make the issue critical.

We all know that none of the fabrics approved by the testing labs are fit for a viral barrier if that is the objective. In the absence of fabrics of that order, there was a need to define the modus operandi for better participation of the Textile Industries which got the much-needed opportunities. The media were all gaga over the money-making process intimidating many in the chaos. The logic was defied when the whole fabric was not an assurance of a viral barrier, but the tests were expected for Synthetic Blood Test

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

INTERVIEW penetration with a particular focus on seam-sealing. This was all done at the compromise of breathability.

A Sweaty human inside is a bigger bomb with his flora-fauna abetting the colonization within and hence enhanced risks.

The prices of raw materials & testing charges could have been capped when the prices of the PPEs were capped. The Volunteers making PPEs could be encouraged.

Affidavit mandating the test compliance and legal action against those could go null & void if many together to protest and make a PIL and asking for a retest of all PPEs approved for supplies to undergo a viral barrier test. Felt all though the intent was to ensure people were safe; however, it was inadequate is my personal opinion.

They could have classified the approval for non-critical, Critical, and highly critical. The lock-down PPEs were more for the non-critical areas like receiving the patients where medical-grade fabrics with high liquid (non-alcoholic) resistant could work with sufficient breathable factor. Anyway, critical usage was limited in the lock-down period and they could have recommended high grades of laminates to ensure the safety with comfort to wear. More so, the risks associated with enhanced colonization under sweat conditions could be avoided.

On the positive note, GOI has realized that to be there we have to build the infrastructure of Money, Machinery, and Men. We cannot expect the Government to do it for us all of it. Their provision thought SIDBI and other schemes are good but we have to ensure that it follows a compliance method easy for MSME.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

It is a journey of evolution and we have to have the patience for the change.

AS A CRITIC IT IS I CAN RISK LITTLE AND ENJOY THE POSITION OF CRITICISING THE ACTIVITY. NEGATIVE CRITICISM CAN WE FUN TO READ OR WRITE. A PERCEIVE JUNK CAN BE A MADE AS VALUABLE. TRUE CRITICISM WILL BE TO STAND FOR AND VETO for THE ARRIVAL OF THE NEW. WORLD IS UNKIND FOR THE NEW. WE WELCOME THE NEW ORDER AND HOPE TO SEE MORE REFORMS AND ENSURE ALL ARE SAFE INCLUDING THE HEALTH WORKERS AND THE INDUSTRY TOO.

Currently, what are your markets Domestic or Exports?

Domestic and very much local supplies. Exports have to ensure, we have the infrastructure match the compliance to the world standards. With a deficit of machinery for Medical Textiles for mechanization and for each of it it has to look for Chinese or West suppliers. One doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exist to the payback and the other risks repayment beyond the normal payback by the cost.

Post COVID19; exports are definite opportunities but an MSME has to invest in Infrastructure before he ventures out there. The new scheme provided by SIDBI and much other COVID19 funding is for sure an attraction but I am afraid; we need to evaluate with prudence; should we invest only because we are getting a zero import duty or subsidy. Is it necessary for the process is the question?

For what we need is there an innovation fund? Yes, but it will be disbursed through the Academic or other agencies where the MSME

is a constraint to do limited flexing on investing in sustainable models.

MSMEs are trusted less but the priority is the academy. The day the mantel is held by the MSME in certain select project approvals over the other agencies, for innovation; we are poised for huge growth.

What steps have your company taken to make sure productivity is least impacted?

We have tried hoarding stocks from the available source. The come at higher rates with escalated costs but without the business is not assured. Hence, working capital is a challenge. We will plan to mechanize the process of manufacturing with machines which we want to make on our own since there is no specific machine available for the domain we service. Ensure we are continuously supplying the best quality standards to our customers.

As the factories might have the maximum manpower right now to meet the nationwide requirements of the textile products, what steps has your company taken to make sure your factory workers are safe from this pandemic?

As a natural protocol, on a routine, we have regular practices that are in line with the hygiene needs of Medical Textiles. However, we have adopted the COVID19 recommendations of social distancing, Hand sanitizing. We have ensured every act is sensitized and stay alive as much possible in the service of people with no or least risks. We attributed the various sources of inwards either by men or materials.

Hygiene and Clean practices are already emphasized with additional instructions for COVID19.

39

INTERVIEW The unit has a built-up area of more than 20000 Sq ft with the latest art of technology imported machines to produce 300+ metric tons per month with a dedicated workforce of more than 200 numbers.

The unit manufactures a wide range of products for Packaging, Medical, Hygiene, and Agro sectors.

Greenby Bags

MR ANAND GREENBY BAGS

Medical textile Manufactur

W

e understand you have started the line in Medical textile ie, Making PPE kits, Fabrics, and many more. In the account of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Special issue on COVID 19 and Medical Textiles Emergence in India, we are taking special and exclusive interviews who have started these lines recently seeing a great opportunity in this field. Being Opportunist, you have seen great opportunity in this field, Please state your answers for the below questions:

• Company Brief, Product Manufacturing, location, USP Melange Polymers P(Ltd), located at Palladam, Tirupur (DT), TamilNaduwas incorporated in May 2012.

It is involved in the manufacturing of quality spunbond nonwoven fabrics catering to both domestic and international markets.

Melange Polymers P(Ltd), made a niche for itself in the list of top producers in India. The company is located in Palladam Hi-Tech Weaving Park, a textile park promoted under SITP (Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks), promoted by the Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India. The company is also listed in Trade India’s list of verified manufacturers of nonwoven fabric offering supreme quality.

40

Greenby Bags, a part of Melange Polymers Private Limited emerged in the year 2016 to manufacture nonwoven bags of various types and many other medical and hygiene products. With the advent and spread of the pandemic disease COVID 19 world over, we started to manufacture PPE Kits.

PPE Kit is an integral part of the medical community including doctors, nurses & other paramedical staff, who deal with the infected ones to prevent themselves from infection.

The production capacity on a monthly basis for the various products manufactured is mentioned below.

• Surgical Mask machine with a capacity to produce 6 lakhs pieces of 3 PLY masks, Tie/Loop • Shoe cover machine production capacity is 5.2 lakhs/month • Surgical cap machine of capacity 2.6 lakhs/month • Leader Bag machine with a fabrication capacity of 5 Lakh pieces/month • Extrusion lamination machine of width 1.2 meters producing 78 metric tons/month

Tia Hygiene Products Tia Hygiene Products, a sister concern of Melange Polymers Private Limited blossomed in the year Dec 2019 with the objective of manufacturing sanitary napkins and to cater to health and hygiene sectors under the NEEDS Scheme, promoted by the Government of Tamilnadu.

With the sudden pandemic COVID

19 alarming across the world, the management decided to venture into the manufacturing of N95 masks. The unit has installed imported machines to produce quality KN 95 masks, with and without respirator valves. The unit has a capacity to produce 2.5 lakh pcs of quality masks in a month.

• Are you already in this product manufacturing or started after lockdown?

All other hygiene and medical products were being produced since the company’s inception in the year 2016.

However, with the advent and spread of pandemic disease COVID 19 world over, we started to manufacture PPE Kits after the lockdown.

• What is the inspiration for starting a new line in spite of lockdown?

Due to the outbreak of COVID 19, there was a lockdown in the entire country in all sectors. Everyone is talking about a slowdown in the economy due to a drop in the business, thus reducing cash flow. We believed there were new innovative ideas and business opportunities emerging from such a crisis. At this juncture, we also wanted to revive our business, which is in a bind right now, and also wanted to contribute to social cohesion in the country.

• How you have managed operations, HR, marketing within a short period of time?

Operations will definitely play a pivotal role in today’s manufacturing sector. With the limited manpower available as recommended by the Government after the spread of the pandemic, we were able to successfully run the show. With the demand for these products from the Local State Government and other nearby State Governments, we were able to sell our products easily and our main focus was only to scale up the production ensuring quality products were being manu-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

INTERVIEW factured. Further, human resources helped us to face the challenge of combining people and resources to produce high-quality goods on time and at a reasonable cost.

• Do you feel the same opportunity will be there after COVID 19 also? you will continue the operations and marketing of the same?

Yes, Definitely opportunity will be there even after Covid 19. The awareness has increased among the people about the use of masks worldwide. This pandemic has created fear among the people and hence accordingly to us, the medical and hygiene sector shall thrive in the years to come.

• How do you ensure to retain your customers after the lockdown?

Ans: Knowing what impact the crisis has had on our customer’s business, and show them additional value in the following ways • As the saying goes “Hygiene is two-thirds of Health”, we will need to keep reminding business on how important this will now fall part of the Health and Safety Standards in the country and worldwide.

• We will start talking to Companies on a regular interval taking their input and thereby coming up with more innovation or up-gradation of existing product lines.

• CSR is a good program or medium through which we can have companies contribute towards the social well being by adopting villages or their own employees’ families.

• As part of the customer education program, we can educate their employees on a periodical basis on the benefits of maintaining hygiene.

• Though hospitals have been one of our customers, they will be more careful with their patients as well and hence masks might become the norm for any patient to enter.

• State about Vendors’ and buyer’s requirements for products. Any

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

specific technical expertise requirement?

Ans: We have been frequently receiving enquires for the purchase of the PPE Kits/ KN 95 masks/ Surgical masks (Three-layered) along with SITRA Test Reports. Other than SITRA, even DRDE certified products are of huge demand in the market.

Some corporate and private hospitals insist on ISO, CE, GMP & FDA certifications.

• How many quality checks are done before these products are sent out to the market?

The most common type of inspection done internally is by the Shift Manager. The concerned Manager takes the sample randomly and draws a conclusion about the whole batch. Even the key persons in the management also crosscheck the internal inspections and records are being maintained. Usually, the products pass 2 to 3 quality checks before being shipped.

• How do you make sure to maximize the production of these essentials keeping in mind the quality is up to government standards?

Did Government Support you in this new initiative?

Understanding the serious threats of COVID 19 pandemic for the frontline workers, the Government had stipulated some guidelines for these products. We had equipped ourselves to match with these standards and also updated us frequently from the recent advancements in all these products.

Obviously, the Government has supported by giving exemptions on import duty for mask machines, ventilators, and all other accessories required for these products.

• Currently, what are your markets Domestic or Exports?

Currently, we cater only to domestic markets as exports are banned as of now by the

Government of India.

• What steps have your company taken to make sure productivity is least impacted?

In fact, even during the lockdown, our productivity was not affected.

We had obtained prior permission from the Local District Administration, as we were into the manufacturing of essential commodities and our production continued without any interruptions. Also with our dedicated workforce understanding the emergency situation pulled up their socks and supported us to the maximum in achieving the maximum production.

• As the factories might have the maximum manpower right now to meet the nationwide requirements of the textile products, what steps has your company taken to make sure your factory workers are safe from this pandemic?

As suggested by the Government, thermal scanning was done for the employees at frequent intervals and a separate register was being maintained during the entire lockdown period. The disinfection of the entire premises was done twice a day. Employees as well as the visitors were given hand sanitizers before entering the premises. Provisions were given inside the factory at various places for frequent hand wash. Also, Siddha and Ayurvedic syrups were provided to the employees to increase their immunity to fight against the deadly pandemic Covid-19. The employees were not allowed to mingle with the common public and their safety was our company’s main motto.

COVID, SARS and many such deadly viruses have taught how dangerous can a virus that can only be seen through a microscope can cause such disasters to the whole globe. So, it is a lesson that self-hygiene in the form of hand sanitizers and masks can only save us from these before a vaccine can be found. Better to be safe than feel sorry later is the only mantra.

41

INTERVIEW

COVID 19 EMERGED NEW MANUFACTURERS FOR COVERALL FABRICS AND PPE KITS INDIA. •The inspiration for a new line We have started manufacturing of coveralls after lockdown one of the Apollo doctors from Karur had come to me and asked me to make this PPE KIT. We made these kits for them and for some more hospitals from Karur and nearby areas. Hospitals liked our kits and later we have applied to SITRA for certification and till now we almost completed 100000 PPE kits.

•Buyers and vendors requirements

MR. BALA MURGAN MANAGING PARTNER, AVANI FELTZ INC.

W

e deal in Nonwoven fabrics and now we have started making PPE Kits manufacturing and our location is Karur, Tamilnadu.

Our USP is polished weeding.

When our buyers like our kits they also ask other people to buy and we have also started applying for government tenders and other tenders and orders. I also received orders from local chemists, pharmaceuticals, and clinics. The buyer asks for SITRA certification. So that they rest assured of their safety, hygiene, and quality. For their factory, a local medical committee person is appointed who checks the quality at every step, and also

W

e are manufacturing PPE coveralls and masks at Tiruppur, Tamilnadu. We are manufacturing of garments.

•Inspiration for starting a new line

AJAY GANERIWAL MD and PARTNER Athletics Plastics LLP.

42

We started manufacturing these PPE coveralls and mask after lockdown we found there is too many problems going not only around India but in the world and all doctors are not getting proper safety kits. So, we thought to make these kits in India only because we already have fabrics manufactured in India and also one of the exporters of this fabric even export to china. So we have decided to make one sample send for approval to SITRA and we got ap-

their company workers also make sure and keep a check at every stage.

•Government tenders and market I regret not getting government tenders but one of my friends got it we are working for him for manufacturing we have imported machinery worth 2.5crore and the bank also supported me they gave 1 crore loan immediately for starting manufacturing. Now they are only doing domestic as the export market is closed but in the future, they are looking forward to export orders and government tenders.

•Workers care

safety, hygiene, and

We are not having excess manpower we are following COVID-19 safety measures and workers have to wear mask compulsory and also wash and sanitize themselves. Also maintain social distance in the company during the work time to avoid any further safety issues. proved in one go. And then we started production and supply of coveralls and masks.

•Management and future plans As of now we are manufacturing almost 1000 kits daily and supplying to hospitals and as of now we are not marketing but some of government authorities and exporters are approaching us for orders so we are planning to work with them. We are planning to set up one separate unit for manufacturing these coveralls kits and masks in the future and also continue manufacturing them.

•Plans for retaining customer We have sent some quantity of these coveralls to Kerala and Ban-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

INTERVIEW galore also and in conversation with one lady doctor, they said they like our kits more than what they were using prior as our kits have PPE lamination and using breathable fabric and others kits are not breathable and uncomfortable.

•Vendors and buyer’s requirements

INTERN ARTICLE

once buyers use our PPE kits they are happy because other company kits are not breathable and suffocate them whereas our kits are comfortable and also breathable because we use breathable fabric for coverall kits and masks. There are three levels of quality checks ie.

During production, after production and then last after packaging, before sending it out to the customer, these make sure that there is best quality is maintained and also safe goods are supplied.

•Government Support.

Standards

and

Right now we are manufacturing according to government standards/ norms and also an officer from the government comes to check coveralls before that we can’t send it to market. And also as export is not allowed but yet didn’t get any inquiries from the government or any exporters till now but in

the future, we are looking forward to it because we have the capacity to cater to export needs.

•Workers safety Firstly if anyone comes to the factory they have to wash their hands and sanitize and we also check the temperature, we have a fever measuring machine in the factory. Mask is compulsory so if they don’t have a mask we give them and they can’t wear a previous day mask. So every day they have to wear a fresh or washed mask to work and if they don’t have a mask than we give them washable and reusable masks.

MARKETING PSYCHOLOGY IN CHANGING TIME NUPUR PRAKASH BULBULE Management Trainee- TVC

flects its participants’ collective emotional state i.e. a range of psychological principles are incorporated in market , content and sales strategy.

“Knowing who your customers are is great, but knowing how they behave is even better.” – Jon Miller

What is marketing psychology?

Market psychology refers to the manner in which the market re-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

One key part of being a great marketer is understanding how people think the way they do. Psychology and marketing are lifelong partners. A good marketer always involves psychology in his marketing decisions. Marketing involves intense research on customers’ needs, wants, likes, pref-

erences, etc.

Marketing psychology is important, it can help the brand to communicate better and makes advertising campaigns more relevant.

Cognitive fluency helps our brain to process the information more easily. When we process information easily, we absorb information in a faster way.

What really generates cognitive fluency in our brains?

Here are four methods to generate cognitive fluency:

1. Repetitive experience Repetitive experience generates a sense of familiarity. Familiar information is easier to process by our

43

INTERN ARTICLE brain because our brain doesn’t have to put effort to understand the brand or to elaborate the situation.

2. Clear characters Adoption of minimal and very clear character makes us to read easily and fastens the processing, of brain. It reduces the effort in decoding of the information.

3. Play with Good mood Put your audiences in a good mood by avoiding the use of negative words, use more attractive and pleasing words. Even bright colors can be used to attract the consumer.

4. Priming effect

It is a technique whereby exposure to one stimulus influences a response to a subsequent stimulus.

For example, the word STUDENT is recognized more quickly following the word PROFESSOR than following the word POLICE. The Covid-19 pandemic has changed the way we work, shop and communicate with people more than any other disruption (including technological ones) in the recent past. As more people start working from home, they are sticking to basics, stepping outside only to buy essentials and are constantly worried about the risks of getting infected in crowded places like malls and supermarkets.

A crisis doesn’t generally need to

introduce negativities alone. For some marketers, it is a brilliant chance to step up their game, adjust, and keep steady over advancing patterns and changes. The key here is to be adaptable, resilient, innovative, and empathetic in these turbulent times.

Due to covid 19 crisis ,there are chances that marketing psychology will change. This inflection point will be fundamentally formed by two significant moves in consumer conduct – the hesitance to blend in jam-packed open spots and higher affinity for digital adoption.

Marketers will have to come up with new marketing psychology techniques in order to keep their foundation strong in the market.

DOES SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCE THE BUYING BEHAVIOR? MS. RUCHIDA ZADE Management Trainee- TVC

ferentiate previous and today’s consumer buying behavior?

B

efore trying to intricate about buying behavior let me ask you some questions so that we are having a strong platform to understand the things. Do you think that social media is the finest way to influence consumer? Can you dif-

44

Social media has become an indispensable tool for targeting consumers. 71 percent more likely people are using social media platforms before going to purchase anything. As per social media referrals, the consumer decides their products and services. It’s no surprise that all kinds of businesses are moving towards a social platform to know the target customers and buying behavior.

As of today’s generation that spends most of their time online, 47% to 48% of their purchases are

swayed by social media. Another key thing to remember that without knowing the feedback of others, consumers won’t be going to add their products into the cart and this is the footprint of social media. A recent report from Deloitte reframes that it depends on the variation of the demographic sector as well because of using the pattern of the internet. Their report saying that 56 percent of consumer buying baby products are influenced by social media whereas 40 percent for home furnishing and 30 percent for health and wellness.

Taking the above figures into account, there are 5 phases of con-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

INTERN ARTICLE sumer buying behavior: Need recognition- In this stage, consumers try to find out his need and this is the opportunity for businesses to categorized their strategies as per the consumers’ needs.

Search for needy product-This is the stage where your website, blogs, SEO keywords, product reviews, branding helps you a lot to stand your product and brands different from others. It should be catchy so that consumers easily find your product.

Product evaluation-Marketing strategies should be aiming to convince consumers to buy your products.

Purchase decision-The consumer has looked at multiple products and start comparing your product with others. They are now at fastigial of the difficult decision whether to purchase or not the product.

Purchase

and

post-purchase

use- It completely builds upon your product strategies and fulfills consumer’s needs, but the buying process doesn’t end the sale. Postpurchase surveys and tanking your email helps the consumer to get back to you. Consumer’s genuine feedback is crucial for you to advertise your product branding it will easily attract more consumers.

Referring to previous statements, social media affects the behaviors of your target market as well, reviews from influencers, social media connections, brands advertising, trending, and popular algorithms. Three factors can influence consumer buying behavior personal, social, and psychological.

A personal factor that influences individuals what to buy and from where. It shows the interest of entities, which directly proportional to demographics. The psychological term deals with an individual’s perception, thoughts about the products, and attitude.

Consumer behavior is a youthful study that comes out in the 1940s and 50s as a sub-discipline in the marketing segmented area. Which help to examine how emotions, perception, and attitude work together while buying any product.

But today’s buying behavior turn towards online decision making.

The modern consumer process is quite dynamic and believes in proper research before going to buy any product. Communication through social media has found an impact on consumer decision making and marketing strategies, recommendations by friends and colleagues help in a decision a making process. The more retaliate on the products or services the more enticing for consumer purchasing. This is the reason why businesses are immersed in social media marketing because as per the consumer, marketing strategies need to follow.

NEWS

LITHUANIAN CAPITAL LOCK UP ‘MASK FASHION WEEK’ DUE TO COVID19

T

he UNESCO World Heritage city of Vilnius capture photographs of people wearing masks as part of a ‘Mask Fashion Week’ Lithuania’s capital Vilnius is holding a special kind of fashion week suited to this time of a pandemic — no catwalks; just billboards and no fancy costumes on display; just face masks. Twenty-one billboards dotted around the UNESCO World Heritage city feature photographs of men, women and children wearing masks as part of a ‘Mask Fashion Week’.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

All Lithuanians are required to wear masks outside as a preventative measure against the spread of COVID-19. The designs were selected by members of local Facebook group ‘Mask Your Fashion’, launched by designerJulija Janus to share novel designs for masks and tips on how to make them at home.“A mask is a good way to display your creativity, to express yourself. And it’s a good activity to do when you are sitting at home with the kids,” said the 50-year-old designer.

The billboards display both custom-sewn masks from scratch and surgical masks with designs painted on them, she said. Those depicted in the photos include local artists, musicians, people chosen randomly from the street and even the mayor of Vilnius, RemigijusSimasius.

“When this current plague started, I was wondering if anyone would try walking around in the medieval mask. Then a photographer offered me one, and that person turned out to be me,” Bruzaite told Reuters.

“Some people like it, some don’t.

Some approach me to give a compliment ortake a selfie,” she added. Lithuania shut most shops,restaurants and customerfacing businesses on March 16 in a lockdown imposed to help curb the spread of the virus. It began easing some of the restrictions late last month as the number of infections fell. The Baltic nation of 2.9 million people has so farreported 1,423 coronavirus cases, including 46 deaths.

45

COTTON MARKET REPORT

WHY IS INDIAN COTTON UNDERPERFORMING? S. AJAYKUMAR & CO. As a commodity cotton has performed well but compared to world, Indian cotton has underperformed.

Covid-19 started in china from January and from March onwards and it hit the whole world. In Covid-19 era equity index lost at least 20% or more. Crude lost 50% and recovered now. While Agro commodities have also lost around 30% and recovering now.

as compared to the rivals. ICE, MCX and Gujcot spot rate running neck to neck with loss percentage of 16.70. 20.20 & 17.22. The loss is very close but due to weakness of rupee Indian basis are negative.

Compared to last year Indian basis went high to 2100 ON to ICE in June. Due to big downfall in ICE due to CHINA-US trade war. Indian CCI haven’t sold single bale and import was cheap. In current season basis We would like to give some table are negative and export is viable. for comparison.

So every year different 3rd January 2020 29th May 2020 % Change has fundamentals NIFTY 12226 9580 -21.64 with different DOW JONES 28361 25378 -10.52 circumstances.

FTSE 7622 6076 -20.28 When Indian consumption ICE FUTURES 69.22 57.59 -16.80 resumes full basis can turn ZCE FUTURES 14440 11520 -20.22 positive by inMCX FUTURES 19610 15630 -20.30 creasing Indian MCX SPOT POLL 19010 15610 -17.89 physical rate or decreasing GUJCOT 29MM 39500 32500 -17.72 ICE or perforCOTLOOK A-INDEX 78.1 66.15 -15.30 mance of rupee. It is clear USDINR 71.75 75.61 5.38 that basis will not stay negaIndian equity has underperformed tive for a long time. against foreign equity market.

For reference the basis chart has Indian cotton future is also quite been shown below. low as compared to ICE. ICE retrace near 50% from bottom 48 and high 74 while MCX retrace near 33% from 19600 to 13900 now at 16000 mark.

India consumes 85% of its production and exports hardly 15% fibres.

As due to lockdown India has been hurt more in terms of production and liquidity. So, it will take more time to recover. Indian physical market turned out to be less down compared to the futures. But when we compare the weakness of the Indian Rupee, Indian physical cotton has highly underperformed

46

From last 4 years we have been facing some unexpected events that has changed the fundamentals of domestic cotton scenario.

1st year – Demonetisation and no cash to run Gins.

2nd year – Implementation of GST 3rd year – CHINA– US trade truce 4th year – The COVID-19 Pandemic.

First of all, Indian ginners and spinners have to change their mind set of flat trade. They must use tools of risk management.

In these four years we saw huge volatility with unexpected risk from government decisions like demonetisation, GST implementation, China-US trade truce and other political interventions. Covid 19 pandemic is a calamity. Also, in past few years we saw many other natural calamities like hurricanes, cyclones and floods. So now we have to prepare for any unexpected risky circumstances which changes the whole scenario of trade. This year M.S.P and huge continuous procurement from CCI has clearly indicated that in the last quarter mills have to buy only from CCI and they are definitely not going to sell at lower rate. So, the fundamental mathematics showed that then prevailing 39000-41000 trading range will be bottomed out and mills have to be covered well.

Indian balance sheet also showed the same picture. But due to lockdown in India and in all cotton consuming countries, the balance sheet of cotton has changed and so has changed the trade scenar-

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

COTTON MARKET REPORT io. The world consumption is down to 105M bales as compared to the estimated 120M bales in January.

There is no change in production so this year will close with huge ending stock. Due to lockdown in the world the sale of finished products also was interrupted. The below given table shows the supply difference for January and May.

World Cotton Supply and Use (Million 480 Pound Bales) 2019-20 Country

from January. Same Production, Less Consumption hence high ending

domestic mills. As all the mills had covered due to hype of higher prices of CCI.

stock.

Indian rupee has depreciated by around 9% during this time. So Indian basis are negative. If we compare it flat – ICE has lost 16.80% while Indian physical cotton has lost around 18%. So it is neck to neck but weaker currency has put Indian basis negative.

What fundamentalists thought in January was clear that then prevailing rate of 39000 onwards are near to bottom and India was nearly 500-600 ON to ICE at that time. In the new circumstances Indian cotton has underperformed USDA

World

Month Jan-20

Beginning Stocks

Production

79.53

120.48

43.83

120.22

Imports

Domestic Use

43.85

Loss /2 0.19

Ending Stocks 79.59

Exports

World

May-20

80.31

122.67

39.33

105.00

40.05

0.10

97.16

United States

Jan-20

4.82

20.10

0.01

3.00

16.50

0.06

5.40

United States

May-20

4.85

19.91

0.01

2.70

15.00

-0.03

7.10

Brazil

Jan-20

11.78

12.50

0.03

3.40

8.80

0.00

12.10

Brazil

May-20

12.26

13.20

0.03

3.10

8.60

0.00

13.78

Australia

Jan-20

1.57

0.68

3/

0.04

1.35

0.00

0.86

Australia

May-20

1.57

0.63

3/

0.04

1.25

0.00

0.91

Africa Zone

Jan-20

1.42

5.87

3/

0.14

5.68

0.00

1.47

Africa Zone

May-20

1.56

6.10

3/

0.14

5.04

0.00

2.48

World Less China

Jan-20

43.86

93.23

35.33

81.72

43.67

0.19

46.85

World Less China

May-20

44.64

95.42

31.83

71.00

39.87

0.10

60.92

Vietnam

Jan-20

1.19

3/

7.20

7.20

0.00

0.00

1.19

Vietnam

May-20

1.19

3/

6.50

6.30

0.00

0.00

1.39

Turkey

Jan-20

1.59

3.40

4.10

7.10

0.35

0.00

1.64

Turkey

May-20

1.64

3.60

3.80

6.40

0.35

0.00

2.29

Thailand

Jan-20

0.18

3/

1.05

1.00

0.00

0.03

0.15

Thailand

May-20

0.18

3/

0.70

0.75

0.00

0.03

0.10

Pakistan

Jan-20

2.50

6.10

1.30

10.60

0.10

0.03

2.17

Pakistan

May-20

2.50

6.20

3.20

9.00

0.10

0.03

2.78

Indonesia

Jan-20

0.53

3/

3.10

3.10

0.01

0.00

0.53

Indonesia

May-20

0.53

3/

2.85

2.70

0.01

0.00

0.68

India

Jan-20

9.31

29.50

2.20

24.50

3.80

0.00

12.51

India

May-20

9.31

30.50

2.00

20.50

3.20

0.00

18.11

China

Jan-20

35.67

27.25

8.50

38.50

0.18

0.00

33.25

China

May-20

35.67

27.25

7.50

34.00

0.18

0.00

36.25

Bangladesh

Jan-20

1.58

0.14

7.20

7.30

0.00

0.01

1.61

Bangladesh

May-20

1.78

0.14

6.60

6.50

0.00

0.01

2.02

Now the scenario has reversed

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

due to demand destruction from

We all knew well that world will lose consumption from January end but we were not prepared. From March end India was on lockdown.

That time also rates were good and performed well compared to the world but the mind set of Indian ginners and spinners as always not to take any risk management as precautions against their stock. The past 4 years’ experience teaches us to always be prepared against unexpected events. Manage risk of stock or forward business by using tools like MCX or ICE. Somebody told that Indians cannot use ICE as a tool. So to clarify RBI guidelines (Circular no.19) (https://m.rbi.org.in//Scripts/NotificationUser.aspx?Id=11226&Mode=0 ) suggest that anybody from India can use any future of the world for hedging. Speculation is prohibited.

Study all the tools when you want to go long or short business in physical market. Do not blame anyone for your losses. Government and trade have given equal opportunity to everyone. Every stakeholder has different type of speciality to compete and do a profitable business A ginner can prepare proper mixing and moisture to maintain trade hence reducing cost A financer to corner the cotton at the best time MNC has international knowledge with all hedging platforms. MNC’s & Big Corporates from India are getting good support from Banks. Everyone uses their resources to find better earning in free trade area.

47

MARKET REPORT

â&#x20AC;&#x153;SURGICAL FACE MASKS Transparency market research High-speed Converting Lines Accelerate Production of Surgical Face Masks

Can Face Masks Flatten COVID-19 Curve?

Coronavirus (COVID-19) is arguably a preventable disease, which has skyrocketed the demand for disposable, N95, and other types of surgical face masks from general public and healthcare professionals. Clinovaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; a U.K.-based global digital consumer healthcare company suggests that wearing a mask prevents a high percentage of coronavirus droplets from entering into the respiratory system of healthy humans, thus rendering the importance of wearing surgical face masks when individuals venture outdoors. Hence, companies in the surgical face masks market are capitalizing on this trend to accelerate their production capabilities, as there is an unprecedented demand for PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) from healthcare professionals amidst the COVID-19 pandemic.On the other hand, respiratory face masks are becoming popular for effective protection against oily aerosols, fine dust, and even infection respiratory pathogens. Hence, companies in the surgical face masks market are growing increasingly aware about high-speed converting lines to boost their production levels.

To know the scope of our report Get a Sample on Surgical Face Masks Market

48

The surgical face masks market is projected to grow at a striking CAGR of ~11% during the assessment period. This indicates a continuous demand for disposable and reusable masks in hospital settings and diagnostic lab environments.

Hence, innovators in the surgical face masks market are introducing high-speed converting lines to accelerate the production of masks.

Recently, in April 2020, Andritz AGâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; an Austrian plant engineering group, announced the launch of their fully automatic and highspeed converting line that accelerates the production of surgical face masks.

High-speed converting lines are being increasingly used to manufacture disposable face masks.

This is evident since the revenue of disposable face masks is expected to exponentially grow in the market for surgical face masks. These novel converting lines are generating incremental opportunities for face mask manufacturers in the domain of N95 and FFP2 (Filtering FacePiece) masks.

Researchers Develop Safe Substance-formulations to Render Viruses Harmless upon Contact with Masks It has been found that not all surgical face masks are effective in containing the spread of diseases.

Hence, researchers are making innovative improvements in surgical face masks that not just trap viruses but also render them harm-

less. For instance, Hyo-Jick Choi, a professor at the University of Alberta Department of Chemical and Materials Engineering, developed a salt formulation that can be applied to the filters of the masks in order to deactivate the virus particles. Thus, companies in the surgical face masks market should collaborate with such researchers to make new improvements in masks.

Companies in the surgical face masks market are increasing their R&D activities to understand the dynamics of simple chemistry to innovate in masks. They are also increasing efforts to improve the efficacy of the fiber filter inside the masks. Experimental scientists are using safe substances such as table salt to develop formulations that render viruses harmless upon contact.

Reusable Surgical Masks Help Reduce Environmental Footprint and Promote Recyclability The surgical face masks market is estimated to cross a revenue mark of ~US$ 13 Bn by the end of 2030.

However, the issue of plastic pollution is likely to hamper the growth of the surgical face masks market.

As such, the revenue of polypropylene (PP) masks is anticipated to grow aggressively in the market for surgical face masks. However, PP masks break down into microplastics that are potentially killing the aquatic ecosystem and wildlife.

An overuse of PP masks has led to increased recycling activities. However, the adoption of recycling processes is still in its nascent stage.

Hence, companies in the market for surgical face masks are increasing the awareness about reusable masks that help to significantly reduce environmental footprint.

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

YARN REPORT

YARN EXPORTDIVES AS COVID-19 SHUTS INDIA NITIN MADKAIKAR Textile Beacon

B

asic textiles comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment plunged 80% YoY in April 2020, both in terms of US$ and INR worth US$112 million or INR840 crore, accounting for about 1.1% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. The sharp decline was mainly due to the nationwide lockdown imposed to contain spread of coronavirus.

Despite the lockdown, 44 ports were seen handling textile cargoes during the month as against 68 last year and around 75 normally.

Cargoes were handled for all days at major ports of JNPT and Mundra and Hazira at 28 days operation.

Pipavav, Tuticorin Sea, Mandideep, Chawapayal ICD, Kanech ICD and Sahnewal GRFL ICD operated for more than two-three weeks during the month. Rest were operated for about a week.

We are intentionally refraining from analyzing year on year comparison (April 2020 with April 2019) since April 2020 was an abnormal with values abysmally low and outliers to the trend. It is also most likely that May 2020 will extend similar

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

performance as the nationwide lockdown continues but partially eased on 18 May.

Spun Yarn Spun yarns shipment totaled just 24 million kg worth US$70 million or INR529. The unit value realization of all types of spun yarn averaged US$2.88 per kg. Bangladesh was the largest market for spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value. China followed about 20% of total value.

Cotton yarn export was 21 million kg worth US$60 million (INR449 crore).

These were headed to 55 at an average price of US$2.90 a kg, down US cents 4 from previous month and US cents 11 down from a year ago. China reemerged as the top cotton yarn market, followed by Bangladesh, Vietnam, Portugal and Sri Lanka.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports of 1.4 million kg, comprised 0.5 million kg of acrylic yarn, 0.55 million kg of viscos yarn and 0.3 million kg of polyester yarn. Viscose yarn was worth US$1.6 million or INR12 crore exported at an average price of US$2.92 per kg in April to 15 countries.

Of these, the major market was UAR followed by Belgium, Paraguay and Turkey. Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$0.6 million exported to 13 countries at average unit price of US$2.25 a kg. Morocco was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Bangladesh and USA. Blended spun yarns worth US$6.6 million were exported in April, including 1.6 million kg of PC yarns and 0.5 million kg of PV yarns. Bang-

ladesh was the largest importers of PC yarn from India followed by Brazil while Iran was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Turkey.

All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled just 8 million kg, valued at

US$11 million or INR85 crore.

Cotton Cotton fibre shipment in April was only of 45 thousand bales worth INR86 crore or US$11 milion. This takes the total export closer to 38 lakh bales worth US$1,029 million in the first seven months of 2019-20 marketing season. Bangladesh was the largest market for Indian cotton export during April, followed by China, Indonesia and Vietnam.

Export price realisation averaged INR113 a kg or US cents 68.26 per pound during April. This was higher compared to Cotlook A index, the global spot price benchmark and also higher than domestic spot price for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6. During the month, Cotlook averaged US$64.13 per pound and Shankar-6 at US cents 61.43 per pound, making Indian cotton uncompetitive in global market.

49

SURAT REPORT TVC TEAM

LOCKDOWN: SURAT MMF MARKET LOSSES BUSINESS OVER 10,000 CRORE

T

he textile Man-Made Fibre(MMF) based industry of the city lost business over Rs 10,000 crore in the last two and a half months, due to the national lockdown to contain the spread of coronavirus. More than 60 thousand traders of the city are facing a severe liquidity crisis.

The majority of the markets reopen from 1st June as per the direction given by local administration. Now, traders are pinning their hopes on their counterparts in other states to infuse liquidity by releasing payments against the goods dispatched before the lockdown.

The textile traders organization, Federation of Surat TextileTraders Association (FOSTTA), has written letters to their counterparts in the wholesale fabric markets in Delhi, Punjab, Bihar, Maharashtra, Uttar Pradesh, Kolkata, Chennai, etc. to release payments due to the traders in Surat to infuse much-needed liquidity. The traders are drained of their working capital and were facing severe liquidity crunch to restart the textile trade in the near future. Payments worth more than Rs 5,000 crore against the supply of saris, dress material, lenghas, choli, and home furnishing material are due to the traders in Surat.

The office-bearers stated that the wholesale textile trade in Surat lost business to the tune of over Rs 10,000 crore in the last 60 days, mainly due to the national lockdown to

50

contain the spread of coronavirus.

Once markets reopen, other verticals including yarn production, power loom, textile processing, and embroidery would start functioning. The textile business gradually catches its momentum but it may take at least three months to get back on track.

75% OF TEXTILE LABORERS HAVE LEFT SURAT: INDUSTRY DEMANDS 50% RELIEF IN GST, ELECTRICITY DUTY

A

bout 75 percent of laborers employed in the textile industry in the city, estimated to have left Surat since lockdown. The Indian National Textile Workers Federation, Surat has expressed concern over the frequent exodus of workers and sought to stop it. Naishad Desai, The President of Federation, requested the Chief Minister Vijay Rupani to provide 50 percent relief in GST for five years and 25 percent relief in electricity duty to the textile industry. If labor migration is not stopped and the industry is not given tax relief, then by the end of this year, many units are expected to shift to China and Bangladesh.

There are around 6 lakh power loom machines, 330 dyeing and printing houses, and 60,000 textile trading shops in Surat. Surat is Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest MMF hub catering to 45% of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s MMf demand. Due to the

lockdown, 75 percent of the workers have migrated from the city. Textile weavers and processors fear that most of the laborers may not return before Diwali, creating a workforce shortage. The Surat textile industry, which relies a lot on the migrant workforce, has requested the state government to set up a committee to convince the laborers not to return to their home state. They also requested the government to waive their electricity bills for six months starting from the lockdown.

He said that electricity tariffs in China and Bangladesh are 50 percent less than in India. The rate of interest is low there and GST is also about 40 percent less. The recent situation is terrible and without the relief of interest subsidy, the textile industry cannot become self-sufficient in competition in front of China and Bangladesh. The textile industry here is decentralized and most of the units are operating on the micro level. The industry remained closed due to the lockdown and this has affected the employment.

Due to a lack of employment, 75 percent of the workers have left Surat. They have demanded various relief to prevent migration of workers and shifting of units of industry.

The following demands were presented for the textile industry: -- 20% working capital of the business to be given to MSMEs at zero percent interest rate -- 50% relief for 5 years in state and center GST -- 25 percent relief in electricity duty for five years -- Interest waiver of 5 years on CC, OD, Working Capital to MSME units

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

51

FASHION VALUE CHAN

FASHION VALUE CHAIN

Fashion Value Chain is a new venture that we have embarked upon with the goal to share latest trends, styling tips , tricks and DIY's so that you can channel your inner fashionista ! fashionvaluechain.com

52

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

FASHION VALUE CHAN

HOW INDIAN DESIGNERS ARE MITIGATING THE ECONOMIC PAIN AMIDST COVID-19 VASAVI MEHTA Intern at TVC

F

ashion industry has been one of the most affected industries due to COVID-19 with almost all the brands and designer stores shut.

Sales have come to a halt and the industry has been trying to find out ways to make up for the economic loss incurred. Amidst the crisis, Indian designers have come up with creative ways to use last season’s inventory that still lies piled up in the workshops, therefore helping in reviving the economy.

Shyamal and Bhumika have decided to donate masks to hospitals, others are putting their designer masks up for sale and some are being offered complimentary with the garments. According to fashion designer Payal Singhal, “Masks have become a necessity, so everyone is going to need them and wear them. I feel designer masks

Nivedita Saboo, Ritu Kumar, Anita Dongre. Masaba Gupta has come up with quite an interesting way to promote her signature bright colored and printed masks, which she calls “Maskaba” by making an Instagram filter so that customers can virtually try the masks before buying.

While designers and brands have been coming up with innovative ways to make masks, it important for us, as consumers to be aware of the fabrics that are really effective in preventing the transmission of covid-19 virus. Cotton masks with just one or two layers are not effective enough. We should go for either neoprene masks or the ones used for medical purposes.A neopreneactivated carbon dust mask filters out 95 percent of dirt particles in the air, is breathable and washable too.Designers should make sure that their masks either have three to four layers of cotton, a pocket or they can even add a layer of polypropylene for better filtration.

We hope everyone’s staying safe

Brands like Peter England, Louis Philippe, Allen Solly, Van Heusen and Zodiac are creating printed cotton masks, which match with their shirts. This innovation, according to businesses will be the new normal during Covid-19 and even after the lockdown gets over. Similarly Fab India has also introduced various prints and designs in their cotton masks.

Not just brands but Indian fashion designers are also using their last season’s inventory to make designer masks. While some designers like

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

will become a trend.” Other fashion designers who are coming up with their own designer masks are

at home and taking necessary precautions to fight Covid-19!

53

FASHION VALUE CHAN

WORLD RAMPANT - FASHION INDUSTRY AWAKENS. SUKANYA KANDARKAR Intern at TVC

T

he Covid-19 pandemic has been wreaking havoc on humanity and has brought the world to a screeching halt. From leading a global economic slowdown to locking up the global population indoors, needless to say, its effects will be felt for years to come.

The pandemic has brought a sudden but a new breeze of change in the world of fashion. COVID-19 induced lockdown had choked the fashion ecosystem, forcing it to change its trajectories. Now, with everyone brainstorming on to revive the hard-hit industry, With the pandemic of COVID-19 spreading across like wildfire, many industries have come to a standstill, including fashion. Owing to public safety, both big and small designers had to shut down their workshops as well as stores.

Covid-19 caused a blood bath of unimaginable scale in the fashion business. The various segments of the industry are stunned into silence as they try to make sense of this global crash on all fronts. Lets peep into the fashion wardrobe to hear it from the Fashion Institutes Professor, Designers, Fashion week production, and Models.

FASHION INSTITUTES What is the future of the fashion institutes in India since they are the creators of future designers? Will fashion shows, which are the culmination of graduation, be as important? How will they change?

Head of one of the premier design and fashion institutes in India, Nandita Abraham, President, Pearl

54

Academy, observes, “The Industry is engaged in reimagining the future of fashion weeks. The way we approach or envision the business of fashion weeks or shows will change. Digitalization will further elevate the democratization of the fashion industry, a world, which

using organic materials are some of the key elements. In spite of all the uncertainties and paradoxes, fashion and its nature of business is a true reflection and spirit of the time that we are living in. It holds a mirror up to our culture and how we have evolved as an individual and global citizen.”

DESIGNERS’ VISION Fashion weeks are the basis for nearly every designer who wants to sell the latest collection so how do these vital segments feel about the coming months.

has always been associated with mystery and elitism; might start to become more accessible and ambiguous. It will create new opportunities and a path for diverse dialogue and cultural exchange. It’s a way to engage the ever-growing digital-savvy consumer, to make it more relevant by transforming their 10 minutes event into something that lasts forever, which physical runway shows might not be able to achieve. Sustainability is not a choice anymore; it is essential.

Fashion brands, big or small can no longer get away without having any stance on sustainability. It is more than mere lip service. A traditional fashion show is not an advocate of sustainability. Upcycling, rolling out menswear and women’s wear together, renting things and

Designer Anjali Patel Mehta, creator of the label Verandah that specializes in resort wear feels, “Given the current scenario, traditional fashion weeks don’t really make sense right now. Designers will digitally send their message across. Fashion weeks could adapt to give an integrated platform to present their message. Currently, retail and luxury spending takes a hit, conscious fashion and supporting local

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

FASHION VALUE CHAN businesses takes precedence. I do hope the retail landscape turns for the better in 2021 and that fashion weeks find a new meaningful way to present creative work across the design spectrum.”

FASHION WEEK PRODUCTIONS The fashion shows were at their peak right from the 50s to the 80s, with textile mills displaying their latest fabrics. At this time, it was the choreographers of the shows who doubled up as designers. With the advent of the multi-designers shows/ weeks, choreographers and models became the stars, as grand extravagant events, complete with lasers, strobes, background map-

audiences, with more models, to space them out along the ramp.

The audience will be slightly smaller or the venues will have to be larger, to allow social distancing, money may be required for marketing.

Don’t know where or how it will go but without it the entire fashion industry will come to a standstill. It’s crucial to get more space, smaller audiences, and still be able to give appealing presentations.”

Alesia Raut & Anjali Raut, Founders, Cocoaberry organize shows, contests, and events all over the country. “The importance of fashion shows/weeks can never be undermined as they form a catalytic synergy between commerce and creativity alongside all the associated faculties on a singular platform.

Even with the advent of technology and the convenience of digital/online display, the magical aura and captivating energy of live shows are irreplaceable and incomparable. With Covid-19 safety, protocols will not only be a decisive factor but also influence designing. ‘SAFE TO WEAR’ could be the new fashion

ping, international models, limitless budgets, a front row of celebrities and movies stars as well as expensive showstoppers. But where will all this go with social distancing and falling sales?

Lubna Adam, ace choreographer/ show director, states, “Fashion shows, and Fashion weeks are really important to the industry as they bring the latest product on one platform, which is then uploaded on social media, buyers and private audience. The designers get to show their latest at the Fashion Weeks, which are a great brand and marketing tool and very essential, or fashion would not be able to survive. After Covid-19 fashion shows/weeks will have smaller

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

requirement. Therefore, they both are equally important. The approach towards both will change, as fashion events will cater to audiences digitally. Cost-cutting in huge sets or establishments, social distancing will force social media

to surface, hence technology will take over from manpower.” trend.”

While show organizers are putting their thoughts together, models to have their apprehensions. FASHION MODEL Sucheta Sharma James, supermodel and Co-Founder of “My Fitness Trainer” admits, “Fashion is part of everyone’s life, some live it every day, some occasionally indulge in it. A fashion show displays a particular mood but fashion weeks cover everyone’s taste and

Lakme Fashion Week economizing to the Fashion Industry.

Lakme Fashion Week along with the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) had set up a COVID-19 Relief Fund for small and trying designers in the fashion fraternity to keep them going. This time, the former has presented a unique solution to aid the designers and artisans expand their business.

LFW is all set to take us to a ‘phygital’ world with its one-of-a-kind ‘Virtual Showroom’ in India.

55

FASHION VALUE CHAN LFW on May 28 announced that it is going to launch a “Virtual Showroom” to support the designers, artists, and the business of fashion by allowing them to showcase their collection on the digital platform. Virtual Showroom is an initiative that can fulfill this need by leveraging technology. It offers many tools to make transacting more transparent and convenient. Virtual Showroom will bring the buyers and the suppliers of the fashion industry

on the same platform to conduct B2B transactions. The coronavirus pandemic had forced the annual collection to stay behind the curtain, but, with the digital showroom, the long-stored inventory can finally be brought to the table. The platform will allow designers to upload their product catalog and costing, while buyers will get pre-approved access to browse through designer collections and have the option of placing orders directly with the de-

signers.

With the LFW Virtual Showroom, there’s hope for the fashion world to adapt in new ways that may provide better solutions. Let’s support LFW and all the fashionistas and fashionovas out there bring it on. We hope that innovations such as the Virtual Showroom will provide the strength and support to the fashion industry and we Slay it!

LUXURY BRANDS’ RESPONSE TO COVID- 19 RUTUJA SHINDE Intern at TVC

T

he Covid-19 pandemic has had a colossal effect on almost every industry, whether that be unprecedented pressure on health services, non-essential businesses shuttering, or supermarkets needing to consider their re-stocking tactics and opening hours. And so, it follows that the fashion industry has also been experiencing the effects of a global health crisis.

The fashion industry’s deterioration would see a serious impact on the global economy, not to mention the furloughing or unemployment status of millions of artists, designers, seamstresses and more.

As the world battles global pandemic Covid-19 (the coronavirus), luxury companies are stepping in to make a change whether through donations or repurposing manufacturers to address the face mask and hospital gown shortage throughout the world. They are supporting medical workers on the front lines

56

in several countries and using their large global network to make positive change in the world. We have rounded up just a small portion of the luxury companies who are using their resources to fight Covid-19.

Louis Vuitton

to create thousands of non-surgical face masks, which will be donated to states that need it most.

Louis Vuitton will also partner with local organizations in each state who are leading Covid-19 response efforts. The luxury brand is also repurposing its Ready-to-Wear atelier in Paris to make gowns for nurses and doctors directly helping patients suffering from Covid-19.

Gowns will be donated to medical workers at Hôpitaux de Paris (the regional hospital center in Paris). louisvuitton.com

Moncler Moncler announced on Instagram on March 17 the company will be donating 10 million Euros to help construct a hospital with 400 in-

Louis Vuitton’s parent company, LVMH, made headlines when they began manufacturing hand sanitizer a month ago. And Louis Vuitton is also helping fight Covid-19 by repurposing its American workshops in New Jersey, California, and Texas

tensive care units in Milan, one of

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

FASHION VALUE CHAN

the worst-hit cities in the world. In a press release, chairman and CEO Remo Ruffini said: “Milan is a city that has given us all an extraordinary time. We cannot and must not abandon it. It is everyone’s duty to give back to the city what it has given us so far.” monclergroup.com

Chanel

communities.

We are proud to support organizations providing immediate relief for communities impacted

by Covid-19, including our hometown of New York,” Anisa Kamadoli Costa, chairman and president of the Tiffany & Co Foundation said in a press release. tiffany.com

Burberry Burberry recently announced its plan to repurpose its Yorkshire factory, which makes trench coats, to make non-surgical face masks and gowns, as well as help fund research in single-dose vaccine

Chanel is another luxury fashion house who will produce face masks for healthcare workers in France on the front lines of fighting Covid-19.

Chanel president of fashion Bruno Pavlovsky said in a statement that Chanel is mobilizing its partner manufacturers and teams, plus 150 sewing specialists to produce protective face masks and gowns. The company will also donate 1.2 million Euros to an emergency fund created by Hôpitaux de Paris (known as l’AP-HP). chanel.com

Tiffany & Co On April 6, Tiffany & Co Foundation pledged $1 million to Covid-19. The money will be split between two organizations: $750,000 will go to the Solidarity Response Fund for the World Health Organization and $250,000 will go to The New York Community Trust’s NYC Covid-19 Response & Impact Fund. The company will also match employee donations to any qualified nonprofit organization supporting Covid-19 relief. “During this global health crisis, we must all be responsive to the urgent needs of our global

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

development at University of Oxford (who has a track record in emergency vaccine development) and donate to charities supporting food poverty in the UK. Burberry is using its global supply chain network to deliver more than 100,000 surgical masks to the UK National Health Service. Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s CEO, said in a statement: “In challenging times, we must pull together. The whole team at Burberry is very proud to be able to support those who are working tirelessly to combat Covid-19, whether

by treating patients, working to find a vaccine solution or helping provide food supplies to those in need at the time.” burberry.com

Prada Prada’s co-CEOs and chairman have donated intensive care and resuscitation units to three hospitals in Milan, including Vittore Buzzi, Sacco and San Raffaele.

Dolce & Gabbana The brand donated to the Humanitas University for a research project hoping to help against the fight against coronavirus: ‘We felt we had to do something to fight this devastating virus, which started from China but is threatening all mankind,’ Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana announced.

Ermenegildo Zegna Group Luxury men’s Italian brand, Erme-

negildo Zegna, is helping to fight Covid-19 by pledging a donation of three million Euros to the Civil Protection in Italy, which supports nurses, doctors, scientists, and volunteers on the front lines fighting the pandemic. The Group will also manufacture medical masks by converting a part of its production facilities in Italy and Switzerland to doing so. In addition, the Group has made a direct financial contribution to several local hospitals to get ventilators and medical masks. zegnagroup.com

57

FASHION VALUE CHAN

58

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

100% NATURAL ORIGIN

PRESENTING RAYSIL 100% NATURAL AND UNMATCHED IN ELEGANCE. Made from premium, imported wood pulp that gives a feather-light feel, vivid colours and a natural lustre for new age royalty.

Contact: Mumbai: 022-66917930/31 Surat: 0261-4003361/62/66 Delhi: 011-41306630/31

VISCOSE FILAMENT YARNS FROM INDIAN RAYON www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020

raysil@adityabirla.com www.adityabirla.com www.adityabirlachemicals.com

59

60

www.textilevaluechain.in May 2020