OCTOBER 2019

COVER SEP 2019.pdf 1 19-09-2019 20:11:10

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OCTOBER 2019

Volume 7

Issue 10

TVC Delegation Report Interview : Rajeev Shah, Moksha Thermoplastics Prasanta Deka, Rieter India Event Report : World Cotton Day Intertextile Shanghai Texworld Paris Premier Vision GOTS – BD TANTU ITAMMA Articles : Processing of Castor Oil Fibers Modal and Cellulosic fiber Cannabis: Remedy for Soil Consumer Insight : VUCA World Testing Standards Home Textile Industry

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20 – 22 November 2019 Bombay Exhibition Center International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles, Nonwovens and Composites

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FAVI MAT-AI ROBOT2 Efficiency is a key argument in favour of TEXTECHNO's single fibre testers . An outstanding example for this is the automatic fibre test system FAVIMAT-AIRBOT2. The FAVIMAT is

the first and only tester to combine four singlefibre test methods in one instrument all of which take the measurement on the same fibre section:

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Fibre fineness Tensile properties Mechanical crimp properties Geometrical crimp structure

The test process can be fully

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automated by means of the AIROBOT2 system. This system consists of a tensionless

storage for up to 500 fibres together with a fully automatic transfer system , which feeds the fibres to the FAVIMAT testing instrument without using pretensioning-weights. This system can handle all kinds of fibres including e.g. Cotton or Carbon fibres.

FAVIGRAPH FAVIGRAPH is TEXTECHNO's solution for those customers , who need a fast tester for single fibre linear density and tensile properties, only. The linear density measuring head is arranged adjacent to the tensile test section , and an integrated transfer clamp serves to displace the fibre from one to the other measuring system , which leads to a considerable increase in testing efficiency.

21 November 2019

Wh o ca n at

International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

tend ?

Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai Machinery Manufacturer Raw Material Supplier

Fabric Supplier End Product Manufacturer

Consultants Startups / Entrepreneurs

Investors

Research and Development Companies Textile Institutions Testing and Certification Authorities Industry Associations

Space for Innovation Messe Frankfurt is bringing forth the 8th edition of Techtextil India Symposium to be scheduled on 21st November 2019 alongside the three day trade fair at Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai.

The aim is to bring together the Indian and global industry barons and visionaries at one platform as they look to share their knowledge about the global trends and developments, market potential, opportunities and future prospects in the Indian technical textiles industry (including non-wovens and composites).

Key Topics of Discussion • Technical Textile Market Overview by Global and Indian Perspective • Government Initiatives to Boost Technical Textiles Sector • Resource Availability in Man Made Fiber Technical Textiles: Challenges and Solutions • Scope of Advancements in Man Made Fibre (MMF) based Technical Textiles • Significance of Certification in Technical Textiles • Reuse and Recycling as a Key Focus area in Technical Textiles • Growth Opportunities of Composites in Textile Industry • Need of Innovative Textiles for Smart Farming • Essentials and Desirables in Personal Protective Equipment • Significance of Certification in Technical Textiles • 3-D Textiles: Embracing the Depth of Technical Textiles • Advancement in Technical Non-Wovens

Partners 2019 Supported By

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers

ai

N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore October 2019

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10th Edition

Apparel Accessories Textiles Tuesday 12 – Thursday 14 November 2019 Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre

Exhibit at Australia’s premier global apparel sourcing show for apparel, accessories and textiles Co located with

APPLY TO EXHIBIT: WWW.INTERNATIONALSOURCINGEXPO.COM Partners

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EDITORIAL TEAM ARTICLES

Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Associate Editor Mr. Swaminathan

13- Processing of Castor Oil Fiber

by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra 14- Modal and other Cellulosic (specialty ) Fibers

by Mr. Ajay Sardana 16- Cannabis : A Remedy for Soil? By Julian Vigo 17- Consumer Insight in today’s VUCA World – Adapt & Align to it

by Mr. RushinVadhani

INDUSTRY

Advertiser Index

19- Testing to the Standards by Mr. SudarshanRajagopal

OCTOBER 2019

21- “More is more” is finally out in home textile industry

by Warren Shoulberg

CONTENT

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mr. R.D. Udeshi President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar Asst. Director, ATIRA

22- HEWA Association News 23- Indian Heritage : An Inspiration for International Fashion

by Lecturer DKTE College

MARKET REPORT 30- Surat Report 31- Nepal Textile and Apparel Industry by 33- Apparel Report by CMAI 36- World Cotton Day in Geneva 37- Farmathon , Farmer Marathon by Cotton Guru

EVENT REPORT 39- GOTS 40- Intertextile Shanghai 42- TANTU Seminar 44- ITAMMA Catalog Show 45- TEXWORLD Paris 47- Premier Vision Paris

48- BRAND FOCUS : ATE 50- SHOW CALENDAR 51- TVC Delegation Report

Back Page : Raymond

7- World Traders

Back Inside :Raysil

8- Techtextil Symposium

INTERVIEW

Front Inside :Rimtex

9- DN Associates

52- Mr. Rajeev Shah, Moksha Thermoplastics

3- PICANOL

10- ISE

53- Mr. PrasantaDeka, Rieter India

4- Sanjay Plastic

56- ITMACH INDIA

5- LRT

57- Udyog 2020

6- Techtextil INDIA

58- Trutzschler

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

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EDITORTIAL

OPPORTUNIST SEEKS VISION IN ECONOMIC PRESSURE

‘‘

“It’s through curiosity and looking at opportunities in new ways that we’ve always mapped our path.”

Michael Dell”

’’

Indian PM and Chinese President met recently in South part of India which had created lot of excitement and curiosity between two nation future.Though its informal meet, but under cover we know that China needs support from India, India can only make China a Superpower in Asian Region due to huge market and route to Developed Market. India and World also getting Cheapest and Innovative products from China which is increasing consumerism mindset and seeking to use more.

India and China will open the door for each other in Culture, Tourism, Agriculture, Spiritual and Service sector.

Both countries share few common Spiritual belief systems.

Entire world wants to sell commodity and weapons. Weapons can only sold if there is FEAR in the world population, whoever making Weapons creating FEAR !Whoever makingCommodities creating MARKETS! Chinese domestic market don’t suffice entire China population, they need market outside China. India – China relationship can be taken in positive side, if China positively do trade ties with Indian market rather than dumping mindset.

China’s forte is Mass Production of commodities where as India forte is specialized small production. Last month few Apparel / Fabric Exhibition organizers of the world also stated that though market is dull but whoever having smart/innovativeproducts and skills ,will survive. Also, world buyers want to buy small order quantity,India can a major advantage on this, smallorders with high price !!!

RCEP is the Challenge which everyone need to face butIndia need to see opportunity in this challenging times and strategies country resources in a better way rather than herd mindset.

We wish you Happy and Prosperous Diwali.. !

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

12

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October 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER

PROCESSING OF CASTOR OIL FIBRES IN TEXTILE INDUSTRIES DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

The Italian company’s activities in this area are focused on an internal system to optimise use of water resources, use of energy from renewable sources, preference for the use natural light, eco-aware and more restful to the human eye, widespread use of LED lighting for the plant interior, use of metal pallets, policy emphasising the recycling of production waste, and in-house transport using electrical means.

Produced by Fulgar, the new 100% biological texile fibre is the ideal solution for the sportswear world. The company: “This unique product is set to revolutionise the sector”.

has traditionally been used as a laxative and in many other applications ranging from soaps and lubricants to paints and dyes.

EVO® by Fulgar is a yarn made from castor oil - not for feeding plant that grows spontaneously. A totally renewable resource that does not require high amounts of water nor subtracts arable land for food uses.

The biomass source is castor bean, Ricinus Communis. The monomers used in the polymerization are partially or completely sourced from castor oil.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS ;

This 100% biological EVO is a result of years of research into engineering standards in a manufacturing, environmental and social context and is said to represent a synthesis of performance and environmental awareness, according to the company.

Its manufacture is supported by the cultivation of castor oil seeds that grow in arid regions not suited to other forms of agriculture. The biopolymer that forms the basic constituent of EVO by Fulgar has no adverse impact on the human food chain, unlike many other bio-based polymers that use natural products otherwise destined for the food and agriculture sector, the manufacturer reports.

“Its manufacture is supported by the cultivation of castor oil seeds that grow in arid regions not suited to other forms of agriculture,” writes the company. “The biopolymer that forms the basic constituent of EVO has no adverse impact on the human food chain, unlike many other bio-based polymers that use natural products otherwise destined for the food and agriculture sector”.

Fulgar, a leader in the synthetic fibre market, has developed EVO by Fulgar, an innovative high-performance fibre made of a biopolymer derived entirely from castor oil seed. Castor oil

It’s a brand new product in the textile industry that reflects the corporate DNA: the company is committed to reducing emissions and consumption since 2010. In fact, their latest sus-

A biopolymer derived entirely from castor beans gives life to EVO, an innovative, high-performance textile fibre of natural origin.

October 2019

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tainability report shows that the entire production process underwent a reduction in the use of water and energy, resulting in a 20% reduction of emissions compared to 2010. Moreover, the entire production process is powered by renewable energy and recycling reached 70%. “This unique product – 100% biological – is set to revolutionise the sector”.

Italian synthetic fibre business Fulgar has launched a new high performance nylon fibre made from biopolymer derived entirely from castor oil seed. The company says the fibre – Evo – is suitable for all textile applications, with particular applications for the sports sector, being ultra-light, stretchy and extremely breathable.

Evonik presents women’s fashion made 100 % of biopolyamidefibers at a plastics trade fair in Düsseldorf, Germany. The high-tech textile fibers have maximum wearing comfort; they are extremely light, flexible, and breathable. Processed into highquality fabrics, they have an odorreducing effect thanks to their lasting natural bacteriostatic characteristics.

In addition, they dry quickly and require no ironing. The fibers can be processed in all textile applications, including an Italian designer fabric for evening gowns, functional sporting clothes, and durable upholstery materials.

The fibers are produced from VESTAMID® Terra, a long-chain AABB biopolyamide that is obtained from the seeds of the castor bean plant. Castor bean plants can withstand long periods of drought, so they are cultivated in dry areas which are not suitable for any other form of agriculture.

The product development process profited from Evonik’s technical expertise in the area of high-performance plastics as well as the fiberprocessing experience of Fulgar, an

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER Italian fiber manufacturer, which markets the biopolyamidefibers under the brand name EVO®.

With VESTAMID® Terra, Evonik offers three variants of biopolyamides, PA 610, PA 1010, and PA 1012, which differ in their profile of properties and close gaps in the previously available range of properties of polyamides.

They are long-lasting, durable, and meet the requirements of applications, for example in the automotive, sports, and textile industries. Typical applications of VESTAMID® Terra products are injection molding, fibers, powders, extrusion, and films.

Fulgar launches fibre made from castor oil seeds Italian fibre producer Fulgar said it has introduced a new way of producing fibres to interpret the needs and values of today’s society, creating a perfect synthesis of performance and environmental awareness.

“Years of research have led to the development of Evo by Fulgar, an innovative high-performance fibre made of a biopolymer derived entirely from castor oil seed,” it said in a press release.

“Suitable for all textile applications and an ideal solution for the sportswear world, Evo by Fulgar is ultralight, super stretch and extremely breathable,” it added.

“It is also quick-drying, non-iron and offers natural thermal and bacteriostatic properties, which ensure maximum comfort and unmatched performance, while retaining an intense eco-awareness,” Fulgar noted.

which is greatly superior to any other polyamide 6,6 (1900Mpa). This mechanical property leads to the creation of fabrics and garments that boast excellent elasticity and good compressive qualities.

PROPERTIES OF CASTOR OIL FIBRES ;

D) ODOR CONTROL

Suitable for all textile applications and an ideal solution for the sportswear sector, EVO by Fulgar is said to be ultra-light, super stretch and extremely breathable. It’s also quickdrying, non-iron and offers natural thermal and bacteriostatic properties, the company reports.

These distinctive values and benefits are designed to ensure maximum comfort and unmatched performance, while retaining an intense eco-awareness.

A). AN ULTRALIGHTWEIGHT FIBER EVO® makes it possible to reduce the fabric weight by 25% as compared to an identical 100% polyester product, whilst retaining the same covering properties.

B ) EXTRA RAPID DRYING EVO® belongs to the next generation of multifunctional fibres which dry in 50% less time as compared to an 100% nylon fabric.

EVO® has a built-in bacteriostatic capacity meaning it keeps odours in check and stops bad smells before they start. *UNI EN ISO 22196 E ) THERMO ISOLATION EVO® has intrinsic thermal insulation properties which protect the wearer from any variations in external temperature. *UNI EN ISO 11092:2014 F) BRIGHT COLOURS EVO®’s unique chemical structure was specially designed to ensure excellent dyeing qualities even at low temperatures.

USES OF CASTOR OIL FIBRES ; Italian synthetic fibre business Fulgar has launched a new high performance nylon fibre made from biopolymer derived entirely from castor oil seed. The company says the fibre – Evo – is suitable for all textile applications, with particular applications for the sports sector, being ultra-light, stretchy and extremely breathable.

C ) MOVE COMFORTABLY EVO® has a modulus of elasticity

MODAL & OTHER CELLULOSIC (SPECIALITY) FIBERS OPPORTUNITIES IN END CONSUMER APPLICATIONS WITH TOP GLOBAL BRANDS/RETAILERS

MR AJAY SARDANA Joint President Pulp & Fiber Business, Grasim Industries Limited

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Through the last decade, Global Cellulosic Fiber Market has witnessed continuous growth especially viscose which has shown strong growth at 6-7% (>2X overall fiber growth).

Based on the superior properties, viscose along with other cellulosic (speciality) fibers like Modal/MicroModal, Dyed, Excel (Lyocell) are expected to emerge as the preferred fiber choices for different end consumer applications including apparels & home textiles.

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October 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER Birla Modal is a premium specialty fiber that offers superior softness. With its sheen, smoothness & breathability, it’s one of the most recommended fibers by the top brands & retailers globally. It’s a nature based fiber made from wood sourced from Canadian Birchwood trees.

Over the next decade, Global Demand for Viscose fiber is projected to grow faster at 7-8%, while Specialty Fibers like Modal/MicroModal, Dyed, Excel (Lyocell) expected to grow even faster.

Some of the key factors which shall drive above growth are rising prosperity, rapid urbanisation, burgeoning middle class, higher disposable income along with consumer preference for soft, comfortable, fashionable & biodegradable products.

Discover a Fibre Synonymous with Softness & Comfort

Birla Modal is the second generation in man-made cellulosic fibres which couples great consumer & value chain benefits.

‘Modal’ as defined by The International Bureau for the Standardization of Man Made Fibres (BISFA) is a distinct viscose fibre genre, which has a higher wet modulus and satisfies a minimum value of tenacity in the wet stage at 5% elongation.

Birla Modal has twin benefits : superior softness + strength akin to cotton. So, even after repeated washes, fabrics made from this fiber retain their softness without losing its perfectly brilliant sheen, colors as well as soft hand feel. It can be the right blending fiber partner when made with different fibers. The benefit of Birla Modal can also be appreciated when blended with cotton ensuring property benefit of both Modal & Cotton. Both being Cellulosic fibers, processing can be done with much ease.

What makes Birla Modal unique? a. Moisture management – Effective moisture management facilitate efficient transport of sweat from the skin to the outside b. Better Fit& Comfort – Garments with Birla Modal provide better body fit c. Brilliant colors with

October 2019

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better sheen – For same color depth, Birla Modal requires less quantity of dyes compared to other cellulosic fibers d. Cooling Effect – Fabrics made from Birla Modal are cooler in touch compared to Cotton Birla Modal is also available as a finer fiber. It’s called Birla MicroModal. Apparels manufactured from Birla MicroModal are lighter, exhibits superior softness and good dimensional stability. It’s like the best friend to the skin & finds excellent applications across different end consumer applications : a. Knitted apparels :

Premium Intimate wear – y Men (briefs/trunks/vests) – Birla MicroModal with Elastane, Cotton Modal Elastane, Cotton Modal y Women (panties/bra/camisole) – Birla MicroModal with Elastane, Cotton Modal, Cotton Modal Elastane h Knitted tights/leggings – y Women - 100% Birla Modal, Birla MicroModal & Birla Modal with Cotton (with/without Elastane) h T-shirts/tops – y Men – Birla Modal with Cotton y Women – 100% Birla MicroModal, Birla Modal with/without Elastane h Kidswear – y 100% Birla Modal, Cotton Modal, Birla Modal with Elastane b. Woven apparels : h Women Tops/Ethnic Kurtis – y 100% Birla Modal, Birla Modal with Cotton h Formal/causal shirts – y Birla Modal with Cotton h Formal/casual trousers/blazers/ suits – y Polyester Modal Elastane c. Home textiles: y Towels – h Cotton with Modal in Pile y Bed linen/Duvet covers – h Cotton Modal, Polyester Modal

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER

CANNABIS: A REMEDY FOR THE SOIL? cannabis dispensaries.

JULIAN VIGO Independent scholar

Hemp offers untold benefits for the soil, production processes, renewable fuel and sustainable fashion.

The internet has been awash in new health apps to improve sleep and wellness and an enormous amount of information on CBD oil, a product derived from cannabis, also commonly known as the source of marijuana.

Of cannabis’ compounds called cannabinoids are two primary components: THC and CBD, the latter is its non-psychoactive component. CBD has been rebranded - it was previously known as hemp oil and is also called cannabis oil and cannabidiol.

CBD is heavily marketed in the EU and is sold to remedy everything from pain relief to stress to depression. While some have questioned the benefits of CBD, there is some hope that this marketing drive towards CBD might open up more awareness of benefits that cannabis in all its forms might offer the planet.

Ecological benefits While the chemical ecology of cannabis is largely unknown to most, the reality is that the cannabis plant is turning out to be one of the best responses to our planet’s current demise.

The recreational and medicinal uses of cannabis are far more widely publicised today due to the growing trend of legalisation (although cannabis with THC remains illegal in the UK), in addition to the expansion of

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But what is less emphasised in the media today are the may uses of the cannabis plant in addition to its added benefits to the soil. Unlike cotton and many other plants used in textile, hemp needs less water and requires no pesticides, allows for soil remediation (phytoremediation) - whereby hemp can absorb pollutants from the earth - and it returns 60-70 percent of the nutrients it takes from the soil.

The cannabis plant has a wide range of uses which makes its cultivation both a boon for the ecology as well as for nutrition among other uses. This plant can provide oil used for cooking, fuel, personal care products, dietary supplements, beverages, baked goods, protein powder, beer, flour and animal feed.

Beyond this, hemp is used in building materials (fiberboard, insulation, cement and mortar), paper products and industrial textiles. Additionally, there are myriad agricultural benefits from this plant: it suppresses weeds, its roots provide soil aeration and it allows for pollen isolation.

Production benefits What this means for the planet is that hemp offers the most far ranging uses for our sustainability. For instance, hemp requires half the amount of water that cotton needs to produce a 250 percent higher yield than cotton because when processing is figured into the water usage equation, “cotton uses more than four times as much water as hemp”.

Cotton production relies on pesticides while hemp does not and hemp is naturally resistant to pests as its dense foliage provides enough shade to prevent or suppress weed growth.

From industrial hemp farming which is expected to almost double in growth by 2026 to “pick-your-own”

hemp fields, the future of textile is quickly moving towards a hempbased production in North America.

Earlier this month New York Fashion Week’s runway show by KortoMomolu showcased her collection consisting of 26 designs created from hemp fabric among other sustainably-manufactured textiles.

Where the CBD craze is being pushed endlessly online, hemp production for textiles is the best possible outcome of what might end up being a passing fad.

The positive by-product of this current rage is that hemp production is having a boost and many fashion designers are advocating for more sustainable textiles such as bamboo and hemp. Even Levi’s has gotten behind the momentum and recently released styles made with “cottonised hemp.” As hemp is 100 percent biodegradable, this fabric is becoming more and more the harbinger to future fashion.

Renewable fuel As for the possible transportation benefits, hemp is a replacement for non-renewable energy sources despite the many challenges that hemp biodiesel made from Cannabis Sativa Linn. Still, many scientific studies such as “Advantages and Challenges of Hemp Biodiesel Production” (2015) see great promise in expanding hemp for biodiesel production.

This study notes the following: “Hemp seeds present a viable feedstock option for biodiesel production. This is demonstrated by the plant’s high yield, ability to grow on infertile soil, resilience to disease and bugs.

“Hemp biodiesel may be used an alternative to the highly controversial biodiesel produced from palm oil. Legalization and increased production of hemp oil may improve the cost of

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October 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER producing hemp oil and subsequently hemp biodiesel.”

This report makes astonishing findings, among which it notes its potential to be used as a primary feedstock and for the purpose of the production of biodiesel fuel.

It states: “When compared with similar crops that are used in large-scale commercial biodiesel production, hemp provides a substantially greater yield and has a higher oil content than that of rapeseed and soybean.

“In addition, biodiesel made from hempseed can meet the ATSM D6751 and EN 14214 requirement for fuel

quality and surpass that of conventional diesel except in the area of oxidation stability, as is the case with other biodiesel products. However, the oxidation stability can be improved with the addition of antioxidants to the fuel prolonging its shelf life.”

Positive change Among all of hemp’s uses today and potential uses for the future, we must move our fashion, transport and purchasing habits towards that of sustainable oils, fabrics and fuels.

We must also sit down and write to our politicians urging them for the

adoption of hemp throughout industrial and local enterprises in addition to paving the way for the legalisation of this plant.

Where biofuel from hemp has been consistently side-lined from the discussions on climate change throughout the years, there is always promise that researchers will turn this paradigm around and realise what was Henry Ford’s dream car and bring hemp biofuel into the future of transportation.

It is only through political, social and personal changes that we can bring about positive changes to our ecological reality.

CONSUMER INSIGHTS IN TODAY’S VUCA WORLD – ADAPT & ALIGN TO IT RUSHIN H. VADHANI AGM AYM Syntex Limited

Today, the world has become very different. Vision statements are continually collapsing as the world is rapidly changing. We are now a part of a world where there is the relentless emergence of newer technology that upsets the apple card constantly. More attention is paid to the pertinent fact that nothing is constant, all contexts are continuously changing and innovation has become the name of the game. And so organisation structures are fluid, reporting lines are not fixed, targets are constantly reassessed.

In other words, the paradigm has shifted, from a fixed paradigm that entails moving from an underdeveloped society to a developed society, to a paradigm where everything is in a flux, where even developed societies of the past are finding markets collapsing and jobs scarce. In the new paradigm of volatility, uncertainty, complexity and ambiguity, there is no beginning or end The current global market scenario is more challenging than it has ever been before, and a famous acronym “VUCA” that stands for volatile, uncertain, complex and ambiguous accurately describes the present state of affairs. Not just textiles but all businesses face uncertain-

October 2019

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ties, and predicting the future of the business environment has become a stupendous task with no assurance of its fruitfulness. Changes in government policies, natural calamities and other factors are contributing to the volatility all over.

VUCA is an acronym – first used in 1987, drawing on the leadership theories of Warren Bennis and Burt Nanus – to describe or to reflect on the volatility, uncertainty, complexity and ambiguity of general conditions and situations;

The Textile Value Chain : Now, predicting trends is not an easy task. The supply chain of apparel is a complicated one involving many stakeholders. It starts from yarn manufacturers who take different types of fibres as raw material and create yarns of different qualities and counts. They weave yarn to make multiple qualities of fabric. For adding colors, either the yarn is dyed (pre-weaving yarn dyeing) or the fabric is dyed (post-weaving piece dyeing). For multi-color

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER

designs, the yarn-dyed route is very important.

Fabric manufacturers are suppliers to brands which generally outsource the apparel manufacturing. To create a particular fashion line, this whole route has to get synchronized as operations at every stage are specific to particular qualities and designs of garments. In general, it takes 6090 days for the fabric manufacturer to deliver the processed fabric. Including designing and garmenting, it takes almost six months to produce the offering for a season.

Thus, to remain relevant in the ‘current trend’, brands have to always predict the future trend. By future, we mean at least six months to one year. The colorful Chinos in stores today must have been at the designer’s desk at least six months before!

The Challenge : Brands sell through various channels/entities. Designs that the brands come up with are booked by these entities well in advance. Based on these bookings, brands determine the demands for each of their designs and go back to their suppliers and apparel manufacturers to book their capacities. Basically, buyers

sential to ensure your company is future-proof. Listening empowers you to learn from and talk to your customers in order to create everimproving experiences.

Businesses with quality data are more likely to collect actionable customer insights, which can help them grow their bottoms line in the long run.

Consumer insights & its Importance: A consumer insight is an interpretation used by businesses to gain a deeper understanding of how their audience thinks and feels. Analysing human behaviours allows companies to really understand what their consumers want and need, and most importantly, why they feel this way.

When consumer insight research is conducted properly, it should improve the effectiveness of how a company communicates to its customers, which is likely to change consumer behaviour, and therefore increase sales.

But collecting good consumer insights can be challenging, so here is what you need in order to collect and use consumer insights properly: Good data quality Data quality is vital to the collection of consumer insights. Without highquality data, your conclusions or results might suffer.

A dedicated analytics team

have to forecast the demand Understanding your consumers’ needs and wants has become es-

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The role of your data analytics team is essential in order to understand how your customers think and behave. If you don’t have the right analytics team, it’s hard to understand what the data is telling you.

Consumer research

It’s important to understand and acknowledge consumer behaviour and consumer insights should help you engage with customers emotionally.

In order to do that, it’s essential not to ignore the results of your consumer research, whether you agree with them or not.

Database and segment marketing Database marketing is a form of marketing using databases of customers to generate personalised communi cations. These databases can lead to personas, different sets of audiences or segments. As consumer insights remain theoretical, database marketing is another essential element to your research when it comes to testing and learning. Indeed, test actions are necessary if you want to turn insights into facts.

Using consumer insights to amplify your marketing efforts Consumer insights help analyse the competition Whether or not you are the market leader in your industry, looking at how consumers talk about products and services in your industry can reveal a lot about consumers’ needs, and what you can implement to improve your own product, service, or business.

Being aware of consumers’ conversations when it comes to other products can be extremely valuable, regardless of whether or not they mention or are aware of your business.

Consumer insights help improve the customer journey Awareness

Considera�on

Purchase

Reten�on

Advocacy

The customer journey’s 5 different stages: awareness, consideration, purchase, retention, and advocacy.

Mapping your customer journey will help you understand your customer’s experience and should highlight any gaps you may have.

But in a world where competition is so tough, personalisation has become a necessity for many retail

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October 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER brands out there. Targeted and personalised help communicate a better, clearer message, and therefore attract and retain customers.

That’s why consumer insights can help businesses understand why people buy certain products over other ones and what’s driving those preferences.

This can help you refine your personas, and determine the best way to speak to your different audience segments. Here are a couple of examples of personalised marketing.

Conclusion: In today’s VUCA world

where uncertainity is rule of game with ever challenging environment & intense competition , satisfying customers is becoming even more difficult.

Consumer Insight Studies definitely helps to understand customer’s preferences & buying behavior for companies to sustain & grow. Customer is & will always be KING & unless we understand it better we will fail in all our business endeavours.

Key Reference:

https://www.impactinternational. com/blog/2012/01/leadership-vucaworld https//economictimes.indiatimes. com/articleshow/69167940.cms https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Customer_insight Various books on Consumer insight & Consumer behaviour

Disclaimer: The views expressed in article are of author & his experience.

https://hbr.org/2014/01/what-vucareally-means-for-you

TESTING STANDARDS

TESTING TO THE STANDARDS SUDARSAN RAJAGOPALAN Strategist

Making of a product or prototype and conceving the market potential may be seemigly be easy task but proving it as a TECHNICAL PERFORMER may be challenge by itself. “Testing may be expensive but No-Testing is fatal”.

There is a definite cacophony in the Indian markets especially among the start-ups or new entrepreneurs to test their products. They are transfixed like a rabbit under the focus light as to what to do with their innovations when they cannot vend the product without a benchmark. He is confused with the convulutions of approval either by the standards or regulators. The onus is on the innovators to take from his grassloot location to the corridors of Delhi for an official approval his innovations. Till then his commercial push is wanting and may fail within the incubation time.

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After all those facilitations for developments and innovation; the lack of standards for Indian regulations is a challenge. BIS is outdated when it comes to innovation and new product developments. There are no protocols for them to take the grass root innovations to the its own head quarters or the QCI (Quality Counsil of India) or the domain Regulators (In case of Medical Devices it would be CDSCO – Central Drug and standard control organization). It does not give guidance or advice for pre-apporval and final approval of his product. It is a meagre mouthpiece for standards which are already set and documented. They are outdated for sure.

They do not have the authority or a modus operandi to support the development and commercialization of the innovations. For an innovator

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or a entrepreneur to usher his way though the huge convoluted process and resistance par his ability; is intimidating. His costs are a challege if he takes the courage to run up the approval process.

As the business becomes multi-disciplinary; the other domain tests and costs challenge him. Every wrong test is a cost and every repeat test is a cost. All odds are against the entrepreneur and additionally the onus is on him to prove his products are safe and matches the benchmarks of supplies. He is mercilessly put to test against the much mature and graduated product supplies from the MNC supplies by the imports India makes.

If one has to benchmark to the interational standards he then too have challenges; 1.He has to have a proximal lab that can do the testing as per the perio-

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TESTING STANDARDS dicity and the lab should be capable to match its test to the ISO or other international standards and in case there are strong BIS standards.

2.labs have to be better equipped to test contemprary standards. Labs can install equipments against updated standards. BIS standards are outdated. The labs hence have to depend on international standards and equipments for an establishment. Such investments are expensive. These costs have to be hedged with the testing costs. This leads to elevated costs of the products.

3.Indian phsyce is to choose an imporated products as against Indian even when Stardards are certified for numerous reasons. That confidence can be weight in by becoming making better standards and compliance.

There is a chaos in syncronysing the act. Even manufacturers sometime feel that the tests done in international equipments are safer for their investments. This scenario have to change.

4.The educational institutions should find this as an opportunity to interact with industry to provide the best testing support. They can write standards; train students and also get the industry connect which is missing today. The standards created can be worked though BIS. BIS in turn can ratify those with the equipments they develop. Even entrepreneurs who look for testing labs as a business opprotunity can invest into such services and be a part of the ecosystem.

Government has scheme to set up labs for attaining Quality standards.

5.Many of the test labs results are not acceptable in the international markets since there is an ambiguity of the results and manupulations from the existing labs. These labs are accrediated certified under NABL will have a relevance but the confidence of tests are always questionable with the infrastructure available to do many of the tests. Quality customers will try to ensure the product supplies match a level that they can build confidence of the supplies. Many look for interna-

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tional labs to capitalize the business opportunity.

6.The QCI still doesn’t regulate all the QC (Quality Circles) certifiers. Many come forward with expensive process certification. They sell the certificates to the entrepreneur under the guile of International certification. How can someone certify a lab or a process and issue an interntional certificate without they being registered under the law of the land? The process is an approximation but it is not absolute.

This window dressing cannot assure quality assurance and confidence to the customers.

7.Under the same physche the Indian clients make preferences or choice to make an RFQs that makes their pick more exclusive and favoured; which goes against the Indian supplies.

8. There are many supplies of imports that may not necessarily match the quality standards vis-a-vis that of the Indian supplies but since the imports are not regulated by the quality or BIS standards. Only recently the medical device companies are under the regulations but it is not known for all the other products of Technical Textiles. They may be regulated only when there is a standard in position to ensure there is level playing opportunities for both Indian and imported products.

9.Present Indian entrepreneur have a fair chance in the business within India and gets strength to take up exports if they can bring in good manufacturing practices. The GeM is a good initiative by the government to include the fair puchase practices among government agencies. ZED (Zero Defect and Zero Effect) is one more initiative of the gov to ensure that MSMEs have a QC which are benchmarked to other standards and some day they could bridge them to the ISOs across the globe. The certification proccess is also subsidised for the entrepreneur.

10.

Governemnt has financial schemes for putting up a lab and subsidising the Quality Certifications

and refunds for all the investments into Quality. Governement has the ISO certifications registered body which work on subsidy. DIC refund for ISO certification under its subsidy.

Plathora of scheme is available and only which that nodal centres like various COEs (Centre of Excellence) / AIC (Atal Innovation Centres) / STEPs / DIC (District Industry Centre) or NSICs (National Small Industries Centre) to initiate a process of mentoring, guiding or even rallying/ advocating or recommending the right scheme for an entrepreneur.

11.A defined protocol for innovation which helps not only to identify and match the best options for finance, a pre-approval and ensure the commercial push of the entrepreneur is started. Banks are commercial entity and most of the financials are channelled only though them. They are aware of all the schemes but they offer only when asked for. An Entrepreneur along with all the other challenges has to investigate which sccheme helps him best. Half of his energy is lost in identifying the best options for his innovation. The above agencies mentioned can make a seachange in the process to treat the new product development or entrepreneur with a sepcial support for qualtiy approvals and financial supports.

For the essential commercial push; the governement can do many simple alterations and integrate the above challenges into one act of facilitation to see the entreprenurs do what they have set as a goal to make self-empolyment more valuable for job creation. The critibility of the Indian products in the overseas market would definitely go up and hence the confidence of sourcing from the bedrock of ‘Make in India’ could be far more easy.

However, there is a silver lining in this process is entreperneurs or innovators have to know there is no short cut to market without going though the quality circles and practice of performance. Indian Customers are no longer a second class global citizens.

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October 2019

TESTING STANDARDS They can invest as much in quality as

any european or advance countries.

They too have an eye of qualtiy which needs to be demonstrated. There are challenges that sub-standard imports and mimicing indian produce make a false noise against the easy sale. Branding is possible with qualtiy delivery.

India is also trying to harmonising the QC with the global standards. They are adopting the ISO pre-dominantly and it could be easy as time change. The above comments are present reality but they are going to change. They may

either force you into it or you may pick it up and make life easier by volunteering to change. QC is here to stay and it is arriving. Documention is not a gene for our business community for a long time. If they document themselves; they will find with their innovation they can cut the giants to meagre levels.

For cutting though the clutter one has to a) Document his process. b) Create evidence of Qualtiy and performance.

c) Publish the data of performance over time. Educational Academies have a role to play here. d) Market research since we need our own data of indian customers and customization e) TESTING – It is a benchmark for branding, Performance, Confidence and Qualtiy.

TESTING MAY BE TIME AND MONEY CONSUMING. IT MAY BE EXPENSIVE BUT NO TESTING IS FATAL.

HOME TEXTILE FOCUS

MORE IS MORE’ IS FINALLY OUT IN THE HOME TEXTILES INDUSTRY

BY WARREN SHOULBERG Consultant For most of its existence, the home textiles business—sheets, comforters, towels, et cetera—has been all about more. That took the form of everything from ever-higher thread counts (defying any known weaving technology) to bed-in-a-bag put-ups that approached the triple digits in their number of pieces, and towels that outweighed some bantamweight boxers. More was better.

But recently, as evidenced by the wares on display at September’s New York Home Fashions Market, the industry has started to go in the opposite direction. After decades of excess, the business is finally discovering that less is, in fact, often more.

The twice-yearly trade show, held mostly in closed showrooms along Manhattan’s lower Fifth Avenue, is where big-box stores like Walmart, Macy’s, Bed Bath & Beyond and their retail brethren start buying next season’s goods. While shows in traditional market centers in Atlanta, High

October 2019

Point, Dallas and Las Vegas all feature higher-end soft home resources and bedding products, it is in New York where the bulk of the business in this $25 billion market segment is done.

Over the past few seasons, this sector has been in transition—working to bring to market products that appeal to the new generation of shoppers more concerned with attributes like sustainability, transparency and naturally sourced materials. It’s been an ongoing evolution, but the fall show made it apparent that the industry is heavily drinking this new Kool-Aid. In market introductions from suppliers large and small, several themes prevailed, reflecting these new sensibilities in core bed and bath products.

Sustainability and circularity: Bed and bath products have always gotten a bad rap for using too many natural resources in their production—water and land primarily—but the industry is making a concerted effort to move to a more sustainable model that emphasizes both recycled final products and individual components. Circularity, based on renewable resources as well as recycling, was a buzzword heard often in many showrooms, even if not everyone clearly under-

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stood what it meant.

Traceability: With the vast majority of home textiles products—at least 90 percent by most estimates—coming from the Asian production powerhouses of China, India and Pakistan, understanding the manufacturing chain for home textiles has often been a challenge. Using DNA marking, RFID tagging and other new technologies, vendors are now able to trace the raw materials in their products back to the growing fields, giving retailers and consumers alike a look into the entire production process.

Certification: Because there are no real regulatory or safety standards governing most soft home products, it’s always been a free-for-all on certifying products. Now, some international third-party organizations like Oeko-Tex and Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS) are gaining traction, often at the urging of retailers who want to offer a point of differentiation for their products. None of these labels are as well-known as established ones like the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval or consumer electronics certifications, but they are rising in market prominence and placement.

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS Natural fibers and fabrics: Even though synthetic materials like polyester and memory foam are industry staples (suppliers and retailers have been wildly successful selling “microfiber” bedding even though it is essentially a descendent of polyester double-knit fabrics from the disco era), the raw material spectrum has dramatically increased recently, with tree-derived cellulose, linen, bamboo and other natural fibers. Cotton still maintains its overwhelming market share—but there, too, differentiators like Supima, Egyptian and Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) offerings are gaining in importance.

CBD: As part of a broader effort to jump on the health-and-wellness

bandwagon, several companies introduced bedding products containing CBD extracts, either applied topically to the fabric or infused into the fibers. Without making explicit health claims—still very much illegal under U.S. laws, even as CBD itself is legal throughout the country—companies certainly implied that these products were good for you. The first wave will hit the market possibly as early as this holiday season, giving the industry a better read on consumer acceptance.

All of this attention to technology, innovation and product performance stands in stark contrast to earlier eras. Yes, there was fashion and, yes, there were plenty of designer names, but today the industry clearly is tak-

ing a different tack—one that strips products down to their essential elements, prioritizing origin and ethics over thread count or frills.

In fact, the only real exception to the less-is-more dictum came in the form of a novelty fad product, the weighted blanket. Countless companies showed heavy-weight blankets and comforters that supposedly promote better sleep. In that case, more is more. But nearly everywhere else, the less the better.

ASSOCIATION NEWS

EVEN AFTER 7 MONTHS OF GAZETTE NOTIFICATION TEXTILE EXPORTERS ARE WAITING FOR RELEASE OF PENDING ROSCTL. Summary:

Exporters in Textile sector.

Delegation of Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) Shri Anant Srivastava and Shri Vikas Singh Chauhan met with Textile Secretary, G.O.I Shri Ravi Capoor at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi on 07.10.2019 regarding non payment of pending RoSCTL even after 7 months of The Gazatte Notification no. 14/26/2016 –IT (VOL II). Dtd.07.03.2019. and informed him about the hardship being faced by textile exporters.

As we all are aware that due to various Global factors there is a sense of slowdown, Export is going down despite bulk orders coming in India.

Representatives of Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) Shri Anant Srivastava and Shri Vikas Singh Chauhan met with Textile Secretary, G.O.I Shri Ravi Capoor at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi on dated 07.10.2019 at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi.

Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) is continuously working for the benefit and safeguarding the interests of Small and Medium

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from this scheme which is pending since last 7 months.

Release of RoSCTL will give instant liquidity to exporters to complete the pending as well as new orders.

By way of this memorandum, the office bearers of the Home Textile Exporters’ Welfare Association (HEWA) wish to bring to your kind notice a crucial point, i.e. release of pending RoSCTL which can boost the Export Sales in 3rd Quarter.

In case there is a delay in doling out the RoSCTL payments, it will lead to cancellation of orders. Exporters are having very less time to complete the pending orders as already shipments of Christmas have started in other countries.

Christmas festival season sale is coming and Indian exporter have received orders from all over the world but due to pending RoSCTL and GST Refunds, non availability of credit from banks, and cost-escalation, the exporters are having lack of funds to fulfill the order on timely basis.

In the larger interests of Textile Exporters, the HEWA requests your august office to release of pending RoSCTL at the earliest, so that it becomes feasible for the Indian Exporters to ship their products timely which in turn will bring export proceeds in India and new orders will come for summer season.

On 07.03.2019, the Govt. Of India had announced very good scheme RoSCTL which provides rebate on all embedded taxes on exports, but exporters are yet to receive the funds

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October 2019

TECHNICAL ARTICLE

INDIAN HERITAGE: AN INSPIRATION FOR INTERNATIONAL FASHION Abstract: India has given the world yoga, architecture, heritage, traditions. One more contribution that must be added to the list is fashion. India has long been a muse to the international fashion. The sheer amount of diversity and influences that designers can draw from every region is immense, and no other country can come close to it.

1With the world communities coming closer, the influence of Indian culture and heritage on international fashion is only growing. Indian fashion designers have contributed a lot in the international fashion arena with their incomparable weaves, embroideries, fabrics and designs by bringing together their vast expertise, creativity and innovation. In this paper attempt has been made to discuss the application of Indian traditional accessories, draping styles, to create western silhouettes. The headgears used in ancient India footwear’s like jutties and mojdi Indian maangtika and various embellishment used in bridal jewelries are kept as an inspiration by international designers to make a fusion in the fashion world.

listed as one of the designer’s official influences that season, there are other ways people are turning to India. One great example of this is Spring/Summer 2015 campaign of the new American brand Trademark. The only Indian connection is the location of the shoot that was used to create an essence for the brand. Shot brilliantly by Jamie Hawkes worth to look like the holiday photographs of a traveler, the images capture the mood of the so-called ‘real India’. Technology, too, needs to be updated. “The textile market has changed, so technology has to change.

Designs have to be created for the western market,” says Nambeth. This is where the mass orders come for the Indian garment industry, as they did for the ghagra skirts, which started out as a high fashion statement. India has one more reason to be happy. The more the country is featured on international catwalks, the greater the demand for its fabrics and embroidery. And for Indian garment manufacturers and craftsmen, a bigger slice of the multi-billion dollar international fashion industry.

Keywords: turban, maangtika, jutti, indigo print, zardosi work, sari

Headgear:

Introduction: India has given the world yoga, architecture, heritage, traditions. One more contribution that must be added to the list is fashion. India has long been a muse to the international fashion. The sheer amount of diversity and influences that designers can draw from every region is immense, and no other country can come close to it. with the world communities coming closer, the influence of Indian culture and heritage on international fashion is only growing, it seems. India is ubiquitous- be it architecture, tradition, culture or art. Fashion industry is no exception. We have been unique and have been inspiring the world by setting trends all across. Indian fashion industry, however at a growing stage, has left no stone unturned in setting fashion statements on the world stage. 3 Indian fashion designers have contributed a lot in the international fashion arena with their incomparable weaves, embroideries, fabrics and designs by bringing together their vast expertise, creativity and innovation. The most fashionable and modish celebrities have pulled off the Indian look brilliantly. Apart from highlighting fashion in terms of apparels, even the art of inking on body (known as tattoos now) was born in our country and then travelled West. Meanwhile International runways are putting forth collections inspired by Indian opulence. It is interesting to see a perspective of Indian inspired fashion, through the famed creativity of world renowned international fashion designers. India, with her rich and colorful heritage in terms of textiles, weaves, culture has served as inspiration to international designers for decades.6.Apart from traditional fashion collections where India may be

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A dastaar or pagari or pagg is an item of headgear associated with Sikhism/sikh religion in Punjab, India. The dastaar is asymbol of spirituality and holiness in sikh religion. Also symbol of honour and self respect. In Punjab sikh community wear a dastaar, partly to cover their long hair, which is never cut, as per the wish of their last human guru, Guru Govind Singh. Different styles of dastaars are men’s double nok, chand Tora, Amritsar Dhamala, Basic Dhamala, Patka, patiyala shahi turban and morni pagg.

The turban is tied in several styles, some of which are indicative of the place a man hails from his social position or cultural background. The turban is wound round the head several times first obliquely on one side and then reversely on the other in such a manner that the two parts diagonally intersect each other at the center of forehead.

The remaining end of the turban is either free at the nape of neck or allowed to hang longer and loosely over the back or neatly tucked into the folds. 8 Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, in

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE fact, has emerged as sort of a style icon and the best representative of this fabulous headgear as he has sported a lot of colorful pagdis on various occasions.

The sheer amount of headgear that Indians wear is amazing and has drawn inspiration from many designers.

Popular designers have experimented with turbans. For its fall 2018 collection at the Milan Fashion Week, Gucci introduced models on the ramp wearing various headgear accessories, out of which turban was one. While this was a big Indian influence, many criticized Gucci on the social media for cultural appropriation on a global scale as turbans have a religious significance for Sikhs. Pagdis or Safas worn by Indians on a daily basis or during festive occasions are also popular.Chanel’s Paris-Bombay collection – Pre-fall 2012 saw male models walking on the ramp in a wrapped headgear, which was clearly the pagdi or safa style. In contrast to the turbans, pagdis are a more

fashion seeped with ostentation.5 In Hermes spring summer- 2008, Jean Paul Gaultier’s ready to wear collection was a tribute to India. The Indian inspired fashion collection started off with androgynous outfits that were inspired by quintessentially male Indian attires like the Jodhpur pants, Nehru jackets and bandgalas. The outfits transitioned to more feminine fluid outfits like tunics, saree inspired drapes and gowns. The turban twisted headgears further enhanced the Indian feel. 5

Nose Rings :

acceptable trend globally; Rajasthani pagdis are a clear example. Various Japanese drivers have been seen sporting Rajasthani turbans, and the same has been featured in quite a few international fashion events. In Couture Fall 2007, the designer’s couture collection evoked the Princes and the Maharajahs. The Jodhpurs, turbans and blingy achkans ruled the ramps alongside the Princes of the colonial era. While the Indian fashion shows are all

about exquisite bridal outfits, it is interesting to see an exaggeration of Indian male outfits on female forms in the West. Jean Paul Gaultier’s presentation of Indian inspired

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Nostril piercing is a body piercing practice for the purpose of wearing jewelry, much like nose piercing, which is most primarily and prominently associated with Indian culture and fashion since classical times, and found commonly in India.9 Nose piercing is the tradition of India. In India all women’s are worn nose ring on the left or right nostril. According to Ayurveda, piercing the nose near a particular node on nostril helps in lessening the pain during childbirth. Nose pins normally used while wedding ceremonies. Nose piercing didn’t originate in India, it was brought to the country in the 16th Century from the Middle East by the Moghul emperors. In India a stud called Phul or a ring known as Nath is usually worn in the left nostril, it’s sometimes joined to the ear by a chain, and in some places both nostrils are pierced. 10

Though nose rings have been popular in other parts of

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE

the world, nowhere is the item worn on a daily basis than India. It has globally inspired many variants. Notably, the nath version has become popular. During the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017-2018 show in Paris, models were seen wearing stylized versions of the nath, which were popular during the times of maharajas.

Indian brides still wear nath as an essential jewelry item for their big day.

Maangtikka/Jewelry: In India, bridal jewelry has a deep rooted significance. The maangtikka is a typically Indian hair ornament, placed on the bride’s hairline with a drop pendant that gracefully sits on her forehead. The bindi represented by charka signifying the holy union of male and female on a spiritual and emotional level. Today women not only in India, but across the world wear the maang tikka as a fashion statement, with traditional Indian attire and sometimes even with western wear! This gorgeous Indian hair accessory, has captured the imagination of the fashion world, and has become an extremely coveted wardrobe essential.

This third eye of fashion has extended its reach overseas and is considered as a casual fashion accessory in the west. Various models have flaunted bindis on the runways. One of the most notable moment for bindi came during the Chanel Paris Bombay fashion show of 2012 when Karl Lagerfeld sent his models wearing a bindi and

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maangtikka on their foreheads. Mc. Queen was inspired

by Indian royal costumes and jewelry for this collection.

Katy Perry, Selena Gomez, Gwen Stefani, Beyonce have all famously worn bindis in music videos and award functions. Karl Lagerfeld brought Coco Chanel’s Indian vision of outfits from the fifties and sixties to the runway of Paris for the autumn winter 2012-13 collection. In Chanel Bombay Paris Collection 2012-13, the models walked the runway, which was set between tables spread out for high tea, and they were be jeweled with stranded necklaces and head pieces. The Indian inspired fashion from Chanel embraced the concept of easy to wear making use of skirts, tunics, jackets, leggings and pants against the flowy Indian saris.5

Saris: In India sari is considered to be among the oldest form of garment in the world still in existence.12 it drape varying from to nine yards (4.5meters to 8 meters) in length and two to four feet (60cm to 1.20meter) in breadth that is typically wrapped around the waist, with one end draped over the shoulder, baring the midriff. In sari, various draping styles are seen in India according to states. 13,14,15 Saris are still identified as the quintessential Indian garment.

Over the years, it has become a huge fashion influence. Part of it is due to the popularity of Bollywood movies abroad that depict colorful, decked-up garments which have caught the fancy of people.

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE Also, the influx of foreign tourists to India have contributed to the trend as many women, and international celebrities are seen wearing saris on many occasions.

Off late, various Indian and international designers have experimented with the garment to make it more adaptable to the international taste. American-Nepalese designer Prabal Gurung recently showcased his autumn/winter 2018 collection at New York Fashion Week where Gigi Hadid modeled a patterned scarf over a wrap skirt. The scarf was draped across her torso and neck, leaving one fringed tail hanging over her shoulder; this was a subtle nod to the sari.

For Marches spring summer-13 Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig’s represented Indian brocade work . this collection was a glorious embodiment of Indian art and craft with a tinge of glamour. Sari gowns have also popularized the garment abroad. John Galliano showcased sariinspired costumes for his Spring 2003 collection while Marchesa’s Spring/Summer 2013 show paraded dresses complete with Chantilly lace, one-shoulder drapes, beadwork and bare midriffs.

the Mughals and were extremely popular amongst the kings and the queens who belonged to the richest era of Indian history. The upper part of shoe made of leather or textile, embellished with cowries, mirrors, brass nails, bells, ceramic beads and other ornaments. 16 Vibrant colors and artistic embroideries are making a splash the world over, but one piece that has caught the fancy of western fashion is the quintessential subcontinent jutti (we say subcontinent because juttis are not dominant only in India but Pakistan as well). While Indian versions are replete with traditional patterns, motifs, and embroideries, it has been restyled to suit western tastes in fabrics such as denim, lace. Sticker-work and hand paints are common, too.

Indigo Prints:

Indian Juttis:

‘Jutti’ is an Urdu word for a shoe with a closed upper attached to a sole. Jutti or nagara was first patronized by

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October 2019

TECHNICAL ARTICLE Indigo is among the oldest dyes to be used for textile dyeing and printing Indigo was also cultivated in India, which was also the earliest major center for its production and processing. India was a primary supplier of indigo to Europe as early as the Greco- Roman era.

Indigo prints are essentially Indian with traditional patterns of nature or mandala designs. They are ideal for India’s harsh summers. Western designers have taken the prints and styled it in their mini, midi, and maxi dresses to make it contemporary for western women.

Indian Folk Prints:

the western palette. Chanderi, Madhubani, Block and other popular prints have been fused with bright hues and big Indian prints to create unique outfits. The big floral Pheran prints from Kashmir and abstract contemporary designs are also quite popular. For winter fall-2015 Stella Jean presented a colourful collection that had motifs inspired from Himalayas and the ritual of decorating the holy yak. fall 2015

Embroidery:

The folk and tribal arts of India speak volumes about the country’s rich heritage. Art forms in India have been exquisite and explicit. Some popular folk art forms include Madhubani paintings from Bihar, Kangra paintings from Himachal Pradesh, Tanjore painting from south India and Warli paintings from Maharashtra.

When we talk of influences, it’s difficult not to speak about our folk prints. These are hugely popular abroad, and there have been many variations in the designs to suit

October 2019

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In India, various embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing style. The most opulent form of Indian embroidery is the zari and the zardozi, known since the late 16th century, brought in India by the mighty Moghuls.

This form uses metallic thread. Once real gold and silver thread was used on silk, brocade and velvet fabric and embellished with pearls, precious stones, gota and kinari etc.

27

TECHNICAL ARTICLE dian inspired fashion collection revamped vintage saris, sourced from cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai and Bangalore. The saris were transformed into contemporary skirts, dresses and shorts designed by the ace designer, Marc Jacobs.

Indian embroidered prints have become extremely popular with brands like Gucci, which showcase them on coats, dresses. International fashion houses like Christian Dior, Alberta Ferretti often source their embroidery design patterns from India. The delicate thread, lace, stone, embroidery works are also frequently found on stilettos (Christian Louboutin’s Spring 2012), clutches, and bags. The Bollywood digital prints, mirror embellishments, vibrant combinations and disco pants could be traced to Indian movies of the 70’s and 80’s. The Indian inspired fashion celebrated kitsch in all its glory in the 2005 Milan fashion show.

Fabrics and Bright Colors:

Louis Vuitton also created custom fabrics in cotton and silk that year, with the assistance of traditional Indian craftsmen who weaved the label’s famed hologram onto the Indian fabrics.

Vera Wang’s spring 2013 collection titled Out of India was an ode to Indian texture and fabrics. Her Indian inspired fashion thoughtfully presented the fabric dimensions on the global stage of New York. The contemporary minimalism of Vera Wang adopted the Indian feel in her signature style. The designer stayed away from predominantly Indian silhouettes and used laced layers, fitted jackets and flares in skirts. For untrained eyes it would be difficult to spot the Indian connection but the designer unabashedly proclaimed the source of her inspiration. The color palette that moved from white to brighter tones also reverberated the spirit of India.

In Christian Dior Resort 2008John Galliano’s Indian inspired fashion was a resort line which exemplified nuances like bright tones, blingy borders, paisley prints and Indian brocade type fabrics.

In Louis Vuitton Diwali Collection 2010, to celebrate its special Indian connection from the times when Indian Maharajahs used to order trunks and luggage from the luxury brand, Louis Vuitton came out with an Indian inspired collection. This unique collection was launched during the Hindu Festival, Diwali in 2010 in its stores, across the world.

The setup for the store display window was conceived in India in collaboration with Rajeev Sethi, the Indian artist working towards modernization of Indian arts. The In-

28

The international label stores are also performing well in the Emporio Mall of New Delhi and other locations in Indian metropolises. This has led to elaborate plans from the international designers to channel the new-age Indian’s fashion craze. Furthermore the Indian inspired fashion creations with contemporary ideologies appeal to the sensibilities of a global Indian.

The Western connoisseurs of fashion always felt a pull towards Indian attires but the wearability factor hindered the acceptance. The recent adaptable trends introduced by the modern Indian fashion designers have opened up the possibility of an Indian outfit. These modern outfits are also influencing the International designers in a big

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October 2019

TECHNICAL ARTICLE way. The reasons may be myriad but the fact that cannot be ignored is that Indian inspired fashion is getting its due recognition and maybe it’s just the beginning!

References: 1.http://fashinscoop.com/935-2/ com,www.livingly.com

,Image

source-

www.vogue.

2.https://www.hindustantimes.com/fashion-and-trends/sikh-turban-on-gucci-runway-indian-culture-influences-international-fashion-again/story-HxZIrMyLFQjJA8bEE4Z9UO.html 3.https://design.careers360.com/articles/what-has-india-contributed-international-fashion 4.http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/india-influencing-u-s-culture-top-designers-disney-article-1.300444 5.https://strandofsilk.com/indian-fashion-blog/stylish-thoughts/ indian-inspired-fashion-goes-international 6.http://www.vervemagazine.in/fashion-and-beauty/10-best-indiainspired-collections-of-the-last-decade 7.http://www.vervemagazine.in/fashion-and-beauty/10-best-indiainspired-collections-of-the-last-decade 8.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dastar 9. (Stirn 2003)

11.https://www.karatcraft.com/blog/significance-maangtikka-indian-traditions/ 12.Lynton, Linda (1995). The Sari. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Incorporated. ISBN 0-8109-4461-8.

13.Boulanger, Chantal (1997). Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping. New York: Shakti Press International. p. 6.

14. Alkazi, Roshan (1983) “Ancient Indian costume”, Art Heritage 15.Boulanger, Chantal; (1997) Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping, Shakti Press International, New York.

16.“Jutti sandals & shoes: buy them here - by Chappals. co.uk”. chappals.co.uk. Retrieved 20 April 2018 17.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigo_dye 18.http://knowindia.gov.in/culture-and-heritage/folkand-tribal-art.php 19.Ms. Dhamija, Jaslean (2013) Asian Embroidery

10.http://www.indiamarks.com/nose-rings-not-just-afashion-statement-in-india/

DIPALI S. KARPE LECTURER , D.K.T.E College

October 2019

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SHABANA M. BAIRAGDAR LECTURER , D.K.T.E Collge

29

SURAT REPORT Customer outreach programme: Banks sanctioned Rs 480 crore loans to textile MSME, retail and agriculture sectors More than 35 public sector and private banks has organised a customer outreach initiative in the city where loan advances worth Rs 480 crore was sanctioned to textile MSME, agriculture and retail sectors. As per the instructions of Ministry of Finance, Department of Financial Services, a two days programme was held at Surat International Exhibition and Conference Hall on 4 and 5 October, 2019.

Shri Murali Ramaswami, Executive Director, Bank of Baroda inaugurated the Customer Outreach Initiative at Surat. He said that the loan initiative programme will give relief and boost retail and MSME sectors reeling under recession ahead of Diwali. Executives from various bank’s, other financial institution and Mr. Ketan Desai, President of South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry were also present during the inauguration ceremony.

Bank of Baroda, State Bank of India, Punjab National Bank, Corporation Bank and several other banks participated in the event. Banks awarded MSME, Retail, Agriculture sanction letters to their customer during the inauguration eremony on 4 October.

Bank of Baroda Sanctioned Loans worth of Rs 165 Crores to their MSME customer and all other Banks sanction loans worth of Rs 314 crore to their respective customers.

Please don’t include textile under RCEP agreement, weavers urged to PM The Powerloom weavers are strongly opposing the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) agreement, a trade agreement with 16 Asian countries, to be signed by India in November 2019. They have started sending Postcards to Prime Minister Narendra Modi, urging to keep textile sector out of RCEP scheme. They are arguing that under this scheme, China, Vietnam will dump its textile goods in the Indian market at zero per cent duty and its cheap goods will spell trouble.

More than one lakh weavers and workers from Surat and Bhiwandi are sending postcards to Modi for exclusion of textile sector from RCEP scheme. The postcards state that if govt. signed the RCEP agreement, the powerloom weaving sector of the country will collapsed. Cheap fabrics from China, Vietnam and Bangladesh would be dumped in the country, resulting in closure of small and medium weaving units and thousands of workers will become jobless.

Mayur Golwala, member of Federation of Gujarat Weavers Association said, the central government has proposed inclusion of textile industry under RCEP scheme allowing for free import of polyester fabrics from China, Vietnam along with other countries in South East Asia. We have call a meeting on 16th October to discuss the Centre’s decision to sign the RCEP deal. The weaving association of Surat and Bhiwandi will make representations to the government about the disadvantages of this agreement.

They will demand the government to consult industry stakeholders and take a decision.

by Well Wisher Surat 30

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October 2019

MARKET REPORT

NEPAL TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY 1.ABSTRACT According to the UNESCO, Textile trade is one of the oldest occupations contributing Nations for centuries. In Nepal Textile trade was recorded back to the 14th century AD connecting through the silk road, the Silk Road linked China with the Roman Empire,allowing trading of goods between the ancient cultures of China, India, Persia, Arabia, Greece and Rome.

The recent discovery and analysis of the Nepali textile has added depth to modern knowledge of the Silk Road.

The cloth, dated between 450 and 600 AD, was found at Samdzong 5, in Upper Mustang, Nepal. A close analysis of the textile revealed degummed silk fibers and munjeet and Indian lac dyes. As these materials were not produced or available locally, they must have been imported from China and India.

2.INTRODUCTION Nepal submitted its application for the accession to GATT in 1989 and to WTO in 1995, required by WTO, Nepal has already presented a Basic Memorandum and is engaged in making necessary preparations. Preliminary rounds of meetings and the explanation of its position are also being undertaken for accession.

With the support of UNDP and HMG Ministry of Industry, Commerce and Supplies, a separate project called Nepal’s Accession to WTO has been established in Kathmandu for providing technical assistance to HMG and the private sector in preparation for the accession, and also for dissemination of information to increase public awareness on the subject.

Several interaction programs organized by the Project with the objective of increasing the flow of information and public awareness have been received very well by the target group

October 2019

of business community, government officials, professionals, academicians and the press.

percent in the current FY whereas two decades ago, it was around 10.0 percent.

Jute farming and manufacturing used to be the main cash crop and exportable industrial product till the early 1970s, but economic viability could not be maintained in the wake of the invasion of cheap substitute like plastic. Jute now contributes only marginally to the economy. The textile industry, flourishing till the 1980s, is facing a fate similar to that of the jute industry and is currently passing through lean phase.

The Indian economy which grew by 6.7 percent in 2017, is expected to expand by 7.4 percent in 2018. It is also projected that the economic growth will expand in South Asian countries in 2018 except for Nepal, Bangladesh and Afghanistan.

3.MARKET SIZE The textiles industry, can tap even 0.05 per cent of the potential $200 billion US market, readymade garment exports are estimated to exceed $1 billion directly, resulting in the direct employment of 100,000 people. With the introduction of duty-free, quotafree access to some 66 items to the market in the United States, which was the largest market for Nepal’s garment industry in the past, the Ministry of Industry, in collaboration with the UK aid funded Samarth, had commissioned an assessment on country’s garment industry.

“However, the findings pointed out that Nepal can compete in the global market by diversifying away from USA and producing small quantities of customized and specialized products with higher profit margins to cover higher costs.”

4.ECONOMIC GROWTH The development of industrial production could not gear-up due to political transition, strikes and low supply of power in the past. Although, the power supply has been easier at the latest time, the production and productivity of the industrial goods has not been competitive. The contribution of industrial production to GDP is estimated to remain at 5.4

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The inflation in Bangladesh, Bhutan, Nepal, India and Pakistan is projected to be somewhat higher in 2018 as compared to 2017.

5.EXPORT AND IMPORT Nepal is the 153rd largest export economy in the world. In 2017, Nepal exported $803M and imported $9.6B, resulting in a negative trade balance of $8.75B. In 2017 the GDP of Nepal was $24.9B and its GDP per capita was $2.7k.

The top export ($432M), and import ($6.05B), destinations of Nepal is India, followed by United states, China, United Kingdom etc.

Its top imports are Refined Petroleum($1.04B), Semi-Finished Iron($447M), Planes, Gold ($246M) and Large Construction Vehicles ($233M).

5.2. EXPORT AND IMPORT TO INDIA Nepal Exports to India Textile articles, sets, worn clothing was US$23.8 Million during 2017, a major cost for Nepalese garment export. Fabrics and accessories comprise 56 per cent of the FOB price, whereas export processing cost, including unseen expenses, stands at to 7 per cent and labor expense at 20 per cent. Likewise, 17 per cent is operational and administrative expenses, including profit and bank interest.

The United States is the single largest market for garment export from Nepal. Almost 90 per cent of the

31

MARKET REPORT

5.1. EXPORT AND IMPORT AROUND WORLD Nepal have been exporting 107 different items of garments to more than 50 countries. The top exports of Nepal are Non-Retail Synthetic Staple Fibers Yarn ($80M), Knotted Carpets ($71.1M), Flavored Water ($45.9M) Bringing in raw materials and bringing out the finished garments constitutes one of the, according to the United Nations COMTRADE database on international trade.

main services of GAN is to monitor and make recommendations for the distribution of US and Canadian quotas. GAN has recently prepared a report on the likely scenario of the Nepalese garment industry after phasing out the MFA quota after 2004, and is actively working to devise appropriate strategies for preparing the industry in the new changing global trading environment. GAN is working to initiating the necessary preparation for action to obtain preferential treatment in order to have access to the US and EU markets.

2. Nepal Textile Association (NTA)

Various representative have promoted the institutional and professional development of the textile and garment sector. The major organization are listed below with their brief profiles.

Established in 1980 in Kathmandu by textile mills for the promotion and strengthening of the sector, NTA actively represents the collective interest of the sector and its members.

NTA regularly examines the problem and prospects of the sector and recommends appropriate measures to the sectors concerned including HMG and its member industries. Due to the shutdown of several mills over the years, NTA’s present membership stands at 12. NTA has very limited physical and logistical facilities and staff. Having limited resources, its regular functions and program have been severely curtailed over the years.

1. Garment Association of Nepal (GAN)

3. Garment Export Promotion Committee (GEPC)

GAN was established by a group of garment producers in 1986. Its present membership is 212.GAN constantly works for the development of the garment sector and maintains constant vigilance on the smooth operation of the industry. One of the

Established a decade ago, GEPC is a regulatory organ of HMG to supervise quota distribution and other related aspects for the development of garment industry. The Committee is chaired by the Secretary of the Min-

Nepal mainly exports knotted carpets, textiles, plastics, hollow tubes, beverages and vegetables. Nepal’s main trading partner is India (accounting for 66 percent of all exports). Others include Bangladesh, Germany, France, Canada, China and Japan.

6.ASSOCIATIONS

‘‘ 32

istry of Industry, Commerce and Supplies and represented by other Ministries and Departments concerned such as Finance and Customs, Central Bank and private sector agencies like GAN. The Ministry of Industry, Commerce and Supplies acts as the secretariat of the Committee.

It has been in the past that several decisions taken by the Committee have not been implemented effectively as other ministries such as the Finance Ministry did not take decisions with a mandate from HMG. A necessary change in stature is deemed necessary to make the functioning of GEPC more effective and relevant.

4. Others The Federation of Nepalese Chambers of Commerce and Industry, the Nepal Chamber of Commerce and bi-national Chambers such as the Nepal – US Chamber of Commerce and Industry and the Nepal German Chamber of Commerce and Industry also undertake programs for the development of garment and textile industries.

7.MAJOR PLAYERS IN FIELD Some major players in the field of Nepal textile and apparel industries are listed below with their brief profile 1.A B Importers A. B. Importers is a yarn manufacturer in Nepal. We are the supplier of best quality Australian Merino Woolen, Poly Wool and Blended Woolen yarn.

These yarns are used for making excellent qualities of shawls, scarves, blankets, sweaters and hand...

“Don’t

—

say this is good and that is bad.

Drop all discrimination. Accept everything as it is.”

‘‘

garment export from the country has gone to the US. Export during 1994 to 1997 stagnated at around 4650 million Rs. after achieving a good export

Osho www.textilevaluechain.com

October 2019

APPAREL REPORT Execu�ve Summary The apparel IIP in July 2019 was 167, which is 3% higher than that in June 2019. The index has shown a growth for the first �me in the past four months.

•

The apparel CPI has remained constant for the past four months at a value of 149.

•

The apparel exports in July 2019 stood at US$ 1,366 million, showing an increase of 11% from June 2019 and 7% from July 2018. Apparel exports to largest market USA increased by 7%; exports to Saudi Arab has shown the highest growth (59%) in Apr-July 2019 as compared to Apr-July 2018. However, the apparel exports to other major markets have declined.

•

•

The apparel imports in July 2019 stood at US$ 109 million, which is 40% higher than that in June 2019 and 8% higher than that in July 2019. Apparel imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to India, has increased by 31%.

Analysis of financial filings of select apparel manufacturers and fashion brands & retailers for Q1 FY 2020 over Q1 FY 2019 highlights the following: •

Most of the companies have shown an increase in their opera�ng revenue •

Growth in Opera�ng Profit Margins (OPM%) for majority of the companies is also very high with Gokaldas Exports and Pearl Global showing an increase of 11.3 and 4.6 percentage points, respec�vely.

•

The increase in OPM% of fashion brands & retailers is mainly because of a change in regula�on by Ministry of Corporate Affairs*.

•

*Under new regulation (IND-AS 116), the rent expense will be replaced by depreciation and interest expense in the income statement, reflecting their right3to-use an asset for a period of time and the associated liability for payments.

Apparel Index of Industrial Produc�on (IIP) Update 220

•

200 180

164

160 162 145

140

171

175 170

156 149 138

168 156

164 157

135

137

162 152 145

167

145

164 144

136 121

120 100

119

2018

118 106

GST Implementa�on

2017

144

144

134

141

•

The apparel IIP showed growth in July 2019 a�er con�nuously declining for the past three months. With a value of 167 in July 2019, the apparel IIP was 3% higher than that in June 2019.

As compares to July 2018, the apparel IIP is 15% higher in July 2019.

2019

4 Data Source: Ministry of Statistics & Programme Implementation (MoSPI)

October 2019

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33

APPAREL REPORT Apparel Consumer Price Index (CPI) Update 160

150

140

148

148

148

144

144

144

137

137

137

148

149

149

145

146

146

138

138

149

149 147

147

147

142

141

140

139

139

148

148

148

143

143

•

The apparel CPI has remained constant for the past four months at a value of 149.

•

As compared to August 2018, the apparel CPI is 1% higher in August 2019.

130

2017

2018

2019

2020

5 Data Source: Ministry of Statistics & Programme Implementation (MoSPI)

Monthly Apparel Exports Update In US$ Million

FY 2019

FY 2020

YoY Change

•

1,352

1,409

4%

-18%

May

1,339

1,530

14%

9%

June

1,359

1,233

-9%

-19%

July

1,275

1,366

7%

11%

YTD

5,326

5,538

4%

1,262

-2%

•

•

Provisional Data for Latest Month August

1,293

The apparel exports in July 2019 stood at US$ 1,366 million, showing an increase of 11% from June 2019.

MoM Change

Apr

-8%

6 Data Source: DGCI&S

As compared to July 2018, the apparel exports increased by 7% in July 2019.

The provisional data for August 2019 indicates a decrease of 2% on YoY basis and a decrease of 8% on MoM basis.

Country wise Apparel Exports Update In US$ Million USA

FY19 (Apr-July)

FY20 (Apr-July)

1,371

1,470

Change

•

7%

UK

552

543

-9

-2%

Germany

384

340

-44

-11%

Spain

291

278

-13

-4%

France

259

255

-4

-2%

Saudi Arab

121

192

71

59%

Netherlands

150

149

-1

-1%

Italy

116

115

-1

-1%

80

86

6

8%

Japan Others

1,346

1,474

128

10%

Total (without UAE)

4,670

4,903

233

5%

UAE Total 7

34

Apparel exports to the largest market USA increased by 7% in Apr-July 2019 as compared to Apr-July 2018.

% Growth 99

656

635

-21

-3%

5,326

5,538

212

4%

•

•

The exports to Saudi Arab has shown the highest growth (59%) with an addi�on of US$ 71 million in Apr-July 2019 as compared to Apr-July 2018.

However, the apparel exports to other major markets have declined with Germany showing a decline of 11%.

Data Source: DGCI&S

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October 2019

APPAREL REPORT Monthly Apparel Imports Update FY 2019

In US$ Million

FY 2020

Apr

56

YoY Change

•

MoM Change

68

21%

-22%

May

67

85

27%

25%

June

73

78

7%

-9%

July

101

109

8%

40%

YTD

297

341

Update 15% •

Provisional Data for Latest Month August

131

127

The apparel imports in July 2019 stood at US$ 109 million, which is a significant jump of 40% as compared to that in June 2019. The imports also showed an increase of 8% as compared to that in July 2018.

-3%

16%

8 Data Source: DGCI&S

The provisional data for August 2019 indicates a decline of 3% on YoY basis, but a growth of 16% on MoM basis.

Country wise Apparel Imports Update FY19 (Apr-July)

In US$ Million

FY20 (Apr-July)

87

Bangladesh

Change 27

31%

China

86

96

10

12%

Spain

28

29

1

4%

Hong Kong

13

18

5

38%

Sri Lanka

23

17

-6

-26%

Vietnam

8

11

3

38%

Italy

5

6

1

20%

Cambodia

6

6

0

0%

Turkey

5

5

0

0%

3

5

2

67%

32

33

1

3%

297

341

44

15%

UAE

Others Total

•

Apparel imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to India, has increased by 31% in Apr-July 2019 as compared to Apr-July 2018.

•

India has reported a significant increase of 38% in its apparel imports from Hong Kong and Vietnam as well, however, the values increase are miniscule.

% Growth

114

9 Data Source: DGCI&S

Financial Health of Select Brands, Retailers and Manufacturers Revenue from Opera�ons (Rs. Crores) Company

Q1 FY 2019

Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020

Opera�ng Profit Margin FY 2019

Q1 FY 2019

Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020

Aditya Birla Fashion & Lifestyle

8,118

1,914

2,065

5.3%

4.1%

11.5%

Future Lifestyle Fashions

5,377

1,268

1,496

7.4%

6.9%

12.9%

3,481

827

832

7.4%

5.5%

11.1%

2,532

591

767

9.3%

11.7%

18.3%

1,434

361

453

8.9%

12.2%

10.6%

748

188

202

3.9%

11.0%

10.1%

Page Industries

2,852

815

835

22.3%

23.6%

22.0%

Gokaldas Export

Fashion & Shoppers Stop Lifestyle Brands and Trent Retailers V-Mart Retail V2 Retail

1,173

285

341

3.8%

2.8%

14.1%

Pearl Global

840

175

191

5.3%

0.9%

5.5%

S P Apparels

778

176

205

16.4%

13.9%

8.2%

607

123

146

26.0%

29.9%

20.6%

1.8%

Apparel Manufacture Kitex Garments rs Kamadgiri Fashion Limited

10

FY 2019

319

67

69

3.7%

2.4%

Celebrity Fashion

231

47

52

3.9%

0.6%

2.9%

E-Land Apparel

172

43

33

-23.0%

-24.6%

-42.8%

Bang Overseas Data Source: Bombay Stock Exchange

October 2019

154

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46 22 2.7% 0.6% 38.2% Note: Only major listed exclusive fashion & lifestyle retailers and apparel manufacturers are considered

35

WORLD COTTON DAY TEXTILES MINISTER SMRITI IRANI TO REPRESENT INDIA AT WORLD COTTON DAY CELEBRATIONS IN GENEVA Head of States and International Organization to attend plenary session cotton like edible oil and animal feed from the seed.

The objective of observing October, 7 as World Cotton Day is to give exposure and recognition to cotton and all its stakeholders in production, transformation and trade; to engage donors and beneficiaries and strengthen development assistance for cotton; seek new collaborations with the private sector and investors for the cotton related industries and production in developing countries and promote technological advances, as well as further research and development on cotton.

The Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, is participating in the World Cotton Day being observed from 7th October to 11th October 2019 in Geneva. The World Trade Organisation (WTO) is organizing World Cotton Day event in collaboration with the Secretariats of the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the International Trade Centre (ITC) and the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC). Union Minister of Textiles, Smriti Zubin Irani, will participate in the plenary session of the event to be attended by heads of states, heads of international organisations and executives from the private sector.

WTO is hosting the event at the request of the Cotton – 4 countries, Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali to celebrate their official application for the recognition of 7th October as World Cotton Day by the United Nations. World Cotton Day will celebrate the many advantages of cotton, from its qualities as a natural fibre, to the benefits people obtain from its production, transformation, trade and consumption. World Cotton Day will also serve to shed light on the challenges faced by cotton economies around the world because cotton is important to least developed, developing and developed economies worldwide.

Cotton is a global commodity that is produced all over the world and a single tonne of cotton provides yearround employment for five people on average. Cotton is a drought – resistant crop ideal for arid climates, it occupies just 2.1 % of the world’s arable land, yet it meets 27% of the world’s textiles need. In addition to its fibre used in textiles and apparel, food products are also derived from

36

The World Cotton Day launch event in Geneva on October 7th is an opportunity for members, the private sector and the international development community to share knowledge and showcase cotton related activities and products.

There will also be a Partners Conference where development partners will discuss and consolidate support for the new project on cotton by products and for other development initiatives.

There will be a photo contest to encourage photographers around the world to communicate strong and positive messages underlying the importance of the cotton value chain. A fashion event will take place to display cotton fashion and designers from different parts of the world with a special focus on Africa. A cotton exhibition is also being held where TEXPROCIL, Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC), Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) and the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) will be setting up their stalls.

The CCI will be displaying various grades of raw cotton including SUVIN, the finest quality of Extra Long Staple Cotton produced in Tamil Nadu having the highest fibre length. Further, natural coloured cotton that is grown in Dharwad in the state of Karnataka in different colours like dark brown, medium brown, green and cream colours will also be on display. Being naturally coloured there is no need to use synthetic dyes which leads to less toxicity in the fabric when used.

A sculpture of Mahatma Gandhi made out of cotton will be displayed to commemorate the 150th birth anniversary of Gandhi ji.

The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL) will be displaying India’s high quality cotton textiles at the exhibition.

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October 2019

WORLD COTTON DAY At the exhibition HEPC will be displaying hand woven products from prominent clusters of India and will also have a live demonstration of the charkha by Pitta Ramulu, National Awardee weaver. The charkha will be donated to the WTO after the event.

The India pavilion at the World Cotton Day exhibition is being curated and designed by NIFT, a pioneer institute of fashion education in India.

The NIFT exhibition will be an immersive experience that will bring out the beauty and soul of Indian Textiles with its hand spun and hand woven Khadi. Fabrics which have been given Geographical Indication like Venkata-

giri, Chanderi, Maheshwari and Ikkat sarees will be displayed along with many other traditional Indian textiles and organic cotton fabrics.

The World Cotton Day launch will give more than 30 countries exposure to producers, processors and businesses and more than 400 participants will be celebrating cotton in Geneva with thousand more around the world World Cotton Day will be celebrated in countries across the globe, with events giving exposure to farmers, processors, researchers and businesses and their contributions to the cotton value chain. These activities will be organised at the country level

and livestreamed at the WTO headquarters.

Between 2011 and 2018, India implemented a Cotton Technical Assistance Programme (Cotton TAP-I) of about USD 2.85 million for seven African countries namely Benin, Burkina Faso, Mali and Chad and also Uganda, Malawi and Nigeria. The technical assistance focused on improving the competitiveness of the cotton and cotton-based textiles and apparel industry in these countries through a series of interventions which had significant outcomes leading to a demand for a follow on project.

WORLD COTTON DAY CELEBRATION WITH FARMATHON (WORLD’S 1ST EVER FARMER MARATHON) In response to the initiative and invitation of WTO to celebrate World Cotton Day, COTTONGURU® had taken up the opportunity to organize “FARMATHON” (World’s First ever farmers marathon) on 7th October, 2019 in India under the banner of COTTON FORUM. This was purely a farmer welfare event where we highlighted the significance and utility of cotton in our daily lives and distributed cotton seeds, cotton products and by-products to participating farmers. FARMATHON gave exposure and recognition to cotton and all its stakeholders in production, transformation and trade.

Date of FARMATHON: 7TH October 2109, Monday (World Cotton Day)

Venue: Garware Stadium, Aurangabad The aim of the FARMATHON was to y give a sense of belonging to the cotton farmers y promote cotton as the most natural, sustainable and eco-friendly renewable resource y discuss the means to fully encash its utility value. y ensure the participation of various stakeholders so as to promote cotton farming to fabric as a sustainable, traceable and profitable process at local, regional, national and international levels.

FARMATHON received very good support from BSE, India’s premier stock exchange. BSE-IPF was our Principal Sponsor. We heartily appreciate the co-operation of the following: y Originator of World Cotton Day event in Geneva : WTO y Principal Sponsor: BSE-IPF y High Yield Seed Partner: Mahyco y Supporter Associations: CCI, TAI (Mumbai), AICOSIA. Cotton Vidarbha h Cottonguru’s supporting buyers (farmer to buyer linkage); Manjeet Group. Riddhi Siddhi Group, Laxmi Cotspin Ltd, etc h Broadcast Media: DD News, Sakaal Group(AgroOne)

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WORLD COTTON DAY Most of the leading Associations in India like BSE (India’s Premier stock exchange), Cotton Association of India, Cotton Corporation of India, Textile Association of India and the entire cotton supply chain comprising of Seed companies, Agri-input companies, Farmtech companies, Ginners and Spinners participated in the event to support the Cotton and cotton farmers.

Over 400 farmers participated in this historic event and hundreds of them were present to cheer them. Over 60 women farmers participated in the special short Marathon which was organised to appreciate their contribution to agriculture.

There were exclusive gifts for All the participants made from cotton, cotton products and cotton by-products: y Designer Cotton T-shirts from Cotton-

guru y Beautiful and durable cotton bags from AICOSIA h Nutritious cotton seed milk mix powder packets from CCI h Healthy edible cotton oil from GIMATEX LTD

Highlights: 1. FARMATHON (Farmers’ Marathon), is a first time ever historic event in the world exclusively run by farmers.

2. Unique event for World Cotton Day on 7th Oct and will be celebrated every year.

3. The program was broadcasted during World Cotton Day celebrations in Geneva, Switzerland.

4. Participation of 400 cotton farmers (including 60 women) from 12 FPOs from 42 villages across Maharashtra.

5. The Event was attended by hundreds of farmers and key persons from India’s Top Trade Associations, Research Associations, Seed companies, Agri-input com-

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6.

7.

8.

9.

panies, etc.

There was extensive media coverage (broadcast, print, and internet) of the Mega event.

BSE- IPF was our Principal Sponsor for the event.

During the event, innovative cotton products and byproducts were gifted to All the 400 participating farmers.

We also showcased our 100 acre COTTONGURU-Manjeet group “Pradarshan Khet” project in which we have collaborated with India’s best seed, farmtech and Agri-input cos. for increasing the yield and income of farmers.

There were other special events and announcements on FARMATHON platform like: y Distribution of 10 mechanical hand harvesters to progressive farmers and office bearers of Farmer Producer Organisations (FPOs). y Special announcement by Shri Bhupendrasingh Rajpal (Pappubhai) of Manjeet Group to pay premium of Rs 100 per quintal for farmers who bring clean kapas (seed cotton) directly to their ginning factories. y Distribution of Medical kit (with critical medicines) by Riddhi SIddhi group to Dr Vaidya, a very humble doctor serving poor farmers. y Announcement of career guidance panel (Shri Sureshbhai Kotak, Dr Hemant Sonare, Shri Manish Daga) for students of CSMSS College of Agriculture, Aurangabad.

We had purposefully chosen Aurangabad as the venue as it falls in Marathwada district, which is the most draughtstricken belt of Indian state of Maharashtra since last 4 years. Maharashtra has the highest area under cotton cultivation, but the lowest yield in India. Any small impact in production and quality in Maharashtra will have a huge influence on India’s productivity and quality standards helping the global traders and consumers get uninterrupted supply of quality cotton.

COTTONGURU®, with it’s 116 year old history, has been associated with cotton from farming to exports, having a direct network of over 50,000 farmers across India. We are into “Pradarshan Khet™” projects which are an integrated effort involving India’s best farmers, Corporates, Seed companies, Agri input cos, farm-tech cos to convert barren fields to fertile profitable farmlands helping farmers from “Sowing to Marketing” so as to enhance their lifestyles.

Our inspiration: Be the change that you want to see in the world (Shri Mahatma Gandhi) FARMATHON has no boundaries. We have already got invitation for Gandhinagar, Delhi and Nagpur for the next year. There are proposals to host it overseas. We look forward to your whole hearted support in making this UNIQUE event a huge inspiration for farmers across the world.

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SHOW REPORT

SUPPLY CHAIN ACTORS CONNECTED AT THE GOTS BANGLADESH SEMINAR 2019 ‘Connecting for Success’ was the theme of the second GOTS seminar in Dhaka on 8th September 2019. It was the second regional GOTS event in Bangladesh, after the one held in November 2016.

Around 330 participants from six countries congregated for fruitful discussions on sustainability and organic textiles. Including representatives from different stages of the manufacturing industry like spinning, knitting, wet processing, garmenting as well as buying houses, international brands, certification bodies, testing laboratories, media, and academics.

The event was part of regional GOTS activities. With the aim to connect stakeholders and to receive feedback on the specific needs of local market players events of this kind are organized all over the world by GOTS Representatives.

Sumit Gupta, GOTS Representative in India & Bangladesh and Seminar Coordinator opened the seminar with a welcome address, followed by the National Anthem. The formal program for the day ensued.

Session 1 titled ‘Connecting Sustainable Retail: Stories from Fashion Industry’. Claudia Kersten, GOTS Managing Director moderated the session. Bruno Van Sieleghem from Stanley/Stella, Belgium and Jan Moritz from Julius Huepeden GmbH, Germany participated as speakers.

The session revealed success stories from brands, market trends, and data about GOTS. Both brands reaffirmed their commitment to sustainability and buying GOTS certified products.

Session 2 named ‘Technical Criteria and Implementation’.

Rahul Bhajekar, GOTS Managing Director was the moderator and session speaker. Further, Sumit Gupta, GOTS Deputy Director Standards Development & Quality Assurance and Prachi Gupta, GOTS Expert, Quality Assurance & Impact, shared their expertise as speakers and talked about important technical topics like GMO Testing and GOTS technical criteria. Besides, the speakers explained the existing software tool for Certified Entities the ‘GOTS Monitor (Water/Energy), and the ‘Central Database System’ After lunch, the entertaining and explanatory GOTS Quiz was on the agenda. Participants were able to test their GOTS knowledge. Four lucky winners, answering 17 out of 18 questions correctly, were announced. Ms. Kersten presented each of them with a GOTS Certified Organic Silk Tie. The names of the winners are: 1. Abdur Rahman, 2. Achutha Kumar, 3. Asifur Rahman

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4. Suhas Khandagale Session 3 was under the topic ‘Connecting on the Job: Workers and Management’. Herbert Ladwig, GOTS Policy & Legal Advisor moderated the session. Armanul Azim, Tosrifa Industries Limited; Dr. Uttam Kumar Das, Advocate, Supreme Court of Bangladesh; Abdul Mottaleb, CERES Bangladesh and Abdul Alim, Sustainable Management System Inc contributed as panelists. Primarily, this session examined collective bargaining and complaint procedures at factories in Bangladesh.

Session 4 ‘Connecting Supply Chain Partners: Efficient Partnerships for Success’, was moderated by Montashir Nahid, Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ). As panelists, Md. Humayun Kabir, Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd.; Md. Sazzad Hossain, Fakir Knitwears Ltd.; Naishadh Desai, Britacel Silicones Ltd, and Dr. Binay Choudhury, Control Union Certification brought their expertise to the stage. The session led to a very engaging discussion with the panelists and the audience.

Speakers and delegates provided numerous valuable inputs during this daylong seminar. Delegates highlighted the importance of traceability and transparency within the supply chain; communication of workers’ rights; an open and supportive attitude to collective bargaining; increased mutual consideration of certifications; capacity building among workers and the need for robust internal systems for Certification Bodies.

Furthermore, it was emphasized that GOTS helped to improve conditions in manufacturing units. For example, some factories installed an Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) to become GOTS certified.

After the last session, Sumit Gupta closed the event concluding “The large turnout today is proof that GOTS successfully serves as a platform for its stakeholders to work on sustainable solutions together”.

Our sincere gratitude goes to all partners for their valuable contributions to the seminar. yy Lead Sponsors: Control Union Bangladesh & Britacel Silicones Ltd. ▪ Gold Sponsors: Ecocert India Pvt Ltd. and Ekolojik Tarim Kontrol Organizasyonu (ETKO) Ltd Sti. yy Sliver Sponsors: OneCert International Pvt Ltd., USB Certification, CCPB Srl, Texanlab Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. and Kingdom Holdings Ltd. yy Media Partners: The RMG Times, Textile Today, Textile Focus and Apparel Views Bangladesh. yy Local Organising Partner: The RMG Times.

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SHOW REPORT

INTERTEXTILE APPAREL MARKS 25 YEARS AS A TRUSTED PLATFORM WITH 15% MORE VISITORS try, exhibitors use Intertextile as a platform to reveal their latest collections, meaning that visitors can be the first to see and feel innovation,” continued Ms Wen. “This in turn attracts more visitors from all over the world – at this edition, we welcomed trade buyers from even more countries & regions. So no matter what problems one market or economy may endure at the time, Intertextile’s diverse network of suppliers and buyers ensures that business can always be found at the fair.”

From its debut of 123 exhibitors in 1995, to more than 4,400 at this year’s Autumn Edition: Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics has grown exponentially in the last quarter of a century. The fair’s 25th anniversary celebrations represented a trading platform that has become highly regarded as the best place to find business in China, as well as an ideal platform to meet global partners. With 89,662 visitors from over 120 countries & regions and a wide range of markets (a 15% increase from 2018, which featured 78,131 from 103 countries and regions) there is always potential to be found at Intertextile.

“China remains a huge part of many exhibitors’ global market strategy, of course in part because of the large domestic purchasing power, but also because much of global fashion has business in China’s advanced manufacturing industry,” commented Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “The key to business in China is interaction, face-to-face, especially with textiles that should be seen and felt up close. 25 years of experience have made this a trusted platform, for both exhibitors and trade buyers in China, to trade textiles. This is how Intertextile welcomes loyal exhibitors back each year, while also including plenty of new options at each edition.”

4,422 exhibitors from 33 countries & regions (2018: 4,480 exhibitors from 33 countries & regions) exhibited at the show, including some who have participated for 10 to 20 years in a row and were recognised at a gala dinner on 25 September. High quality trade buyers praised the comprehensive nature of Intertextile’s product range, as the fair was recognised as a one-stop shop for apparel products across the board. Product zones, such as Functional Lab and Beyond Denim, also offered an easier way to quickly match exhibitors with their target buyers.

“Thanks to the fair’s positive reputation within the indus-

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This year, fringe programme highlights included: Asia’s first ever FASHIONSUSTAIN conference; a round-table meeting focused on international trade and sustainability; the Intertextile Consumer & Lifestyle Trend, themed FutureCast 2021: New Consumer Rules; the Smart Factory Forum, a panel discussion focused on Artificial Intelligence (AI) applications and trends; and an industry crossover with Messe Frankfurt’s new fair Licensing China which included a licensing seminar and display area.

Exhibitor observations Japan Pavilion “We’ve been exhibiting here for 15 years now. We’ve had many buyers come to our booth this edition. The pleasing aspect about this fair is some of them will become our partners afterwards, based on our previous experience here. This is the best platform to access the Chinese market, but it’s also a very international fair. Many companies exhibit here, so it brings the global industry together.”

Mr Kiichiro Kobayashi, Manager, Fibres & Textiles Marketing Dept, Asahi Kasei Corporation, Japan

Functional Lab “This exhibition has been in business for 25 years and has attracted many domestic and overseas brands and buyers. We have participated in this fair for many years, and the result has been remarkable each year. Through this platform, we can integrate with market trends and brands, promote the company image, and ultimately boost international and domestic sales.”

Mr Hon Chen, Manager of Spun Yarn & Fabric & Apparel SBU, Far Eastern New Century Corporation, Taiwan

Korea Pavilion “The Korean exhibitors at Intertextile have already achieved remarkable business results just from the first two days of the fair, thanks to their high quality products.

This fair is considered as a final sourcing platform where actual orders for the next season are placed. Intertextile has provided an opportunity to us to introduce Korean

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SHOW REPORT out the fair. We had mostly buyers from China, mostly manufacturers, and Australia – we’re here for the Chinese market, so it was a nice surprise to see some existing Australian customers too. This is our fourth time at Intertextile.”

Mr Joe Moreline, Sales, Camilla Frances, UK

Buyer impressions

textiles to an international market effectively.”

Mr Young Sang Yoon, Vice President of Korea Fashion Textile Association, Korea

All About Sustainability “It’s important for Testex to exhibit in Intertextile Shanghai as this is the leading fair in China and maybe in the world. We are an official representative for OEKO-TEX and have had a pavilion for five years. Our members are very happy with the exhibition results so far. They have even seen an increase in enquiries. We had very good opportunities to talk with trading companies and brands from all over Europe and the US.” Mr Marc Sidler, Group CMO, Testex AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute, Switzerland

SalonEurope “Intertextile is here specifically to target the very important Chinese market. China is the dominant force now in apparel manufacturing, for both the high-end and midrange markets. The halls are very busy, there are lots of people here. The exhibitors are happy and the brands seem to be pleased. We’ve had a really good show so far.”

Mr Paul Alger, International Business Director, UK Fashion & Textile Association, United Kingdom

Premium Wool Zone “China is definitely a very important market for Dormeuil, and we want it to become one of our top markets in the next few years. Therefore, this fair is one of our most important to attend. We’ve been exhibiting here for the last 10 years, we just received an award from Intertextile, so this fair is very important for our company.”

Ms Aline Galimberti, Product Manager, Dormeuil, France

Verve for Design “Business has been really good so far, we had a great first day in particular. I’m really happy with our sales through-

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“I attend Intertextile almost every year. There are a lot of exhibitors this year, which meet my purchasing needs. I have found some high-quality suppliers, including some manufacturers that provide environmentally friendly fabrics. This is one of the most professional exhibitions in this industry. Exhibitors and product resources are more abundant, which brings high purchasing efficiency.”

Mr Yang Chen, General Manager, Hengsheng Garment, China “Being here gives us a wider idea of the products available in the market, the latest technologies, as well as sustainable options. The buyers in our group were very impressed with the fair’s size and range. The round-table was also a very important facet of the fair, as it allowed different associations, especially in Asia, to discuss how everyone is adapting to the market. This fair is the best a garment manufacturer can attend.”

Ms Rosette Carrillo, Associate Director, Confederation of Wearable Exporters of the Philippines, Philippines “We are here to find fabrics for men, women, kids and home business. There’s a lot here to offer, so we are here to find as much as we can. This is not our first time being here – we keep returning because the offering here is huge, the pricing matches our needs and the customer service is pretty good.”

Mr Alan Aschenbrenner, Head of Far East, Debenhams, United Kingdom The fair was held concurrently with Yarn Expo Autumn, CHIC and PH Value from 25 – 27 September, at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). The Spring Edition will take place from 11 – 13 March 2020 and the next Autumn Edition will take place in September 2020.

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition 2019 was co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre. For more details on this fair, please visit: www.intertextileapparel.com. Information from the international textiles sector and Messe Frankfurt’s textile fairs worldwide can be found at: www.texpertise-network.com.

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EVENT REPORT

7TH EDITION OF TANTU SEMINAR DISCUSSED ON INDIGO DYEING, DENIM FINISHING AND SUSTAINABILITY IN JEANS MANUFACTURING TANTU has successfully concluded its 7th Annual Seminar on the 14th of September at India International Centre, New Delhi, India. The seminar was dedicated to highlighting the problems in the jeans manufacturing industry and the jeans market and to creatively suggest effective solutions in the key areas.

Jeans being a classic has become an integral part of mankind and is likely to stay that way. The reason could be

fully reduced the water required to wash denim from 60 tonnes to 10 tonnes.

The first panel discussion was titled “Jeans manufacturing – An art or Science”. The panel included eminent members such as Abhijit Ghosh, Munir Syed Sayeed, Jasim Uddin, Subrata Ghosh and was moderated by Dr. Prabir Jana. Most of the panelists agreed that the Jeans manufacturing might have been a science 20 years back, but it is more of an Art now. It all starts with conceptualizing the likes and dislikes of the customer into a design and this art is backed by scientific innovation. The forum also discussed the popularity of striped denim. It was observed that there was a demand for striped denim, but due to complications in its manufacturing it is more costly. However, the real challenge lies in producing checked denim as indigo dyed weft yarns is not fast to denim wash and the resultant look is not very appealing.

M Sai Navneethan from Ramson continued to demonstrate the need of sustainability. He said the next great switch in this direction would be from horizontal to front loading finishing machine and jet spray will reduce water

its adaptability. Jeans can be incorporated in our looks in several ways be it in terms of colors, lengths, fits and styles. The popularity of the fabric and the garment is expected to rise, let alone decrease. The 7th seminar of Tantu aptly emphasizes this.

In his welcome speech, Dr. Prabir Jana, the president of TANTU, addressed the history of TANTU and the role it intends to play in the Textile and Apparel industry. Tantu seminars serve the purpose of bridging the gap between the problem experiencers and the solution providers.

It stands as a platform to take up the issues and have experts from various backgrounds deliberate over the cause and effects of such issues in the industry. Unlike most forums, TANTU believes that a panel discussion is the right way to confront the problems and deduce solutions. The technicalities of the process that makes a product has been the key area of discussion.

Mr. Sunder Belani, Managing Director, Ramsons, the title sponsor expressed that unlike popular belief that there is a decline in business, there is a change in the way of doing business. There is a shift in the demand towards sustainability. There ingenious one stop laundry solutions incorporate high tech ozonators and nano technology. There Laser Tex and Jet spray Vertostar machines have success-

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consumption even further. The MLR of the front loading machine is half of that of horizontal loading machine. The Go Green Machine saves upto 95% compared to the conventional washing technologies by using a spray of chemical solution for finishing instead of dumping the product in tonnes of water. Their Conveyorized Dryer is a form of line drying which uses steam resulting in reduced cycle time and water consumption. Their other disruptive technologies include Ozone and lazer technologies.

Ram Sareen, CEO, Tukatech

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October 2019

EVENT REPORT The next presentation was by Mr. Ram Sareen the CEO of Tukatech. With an experience in the apparel industry for 50 years, he exclaimed that the most important aspect that needs serious intervention is fit. As per him, that fit is the one thing that decides the faith that of a garment taken from the rack to the trial room. In an online space, problems stemming from fit accounts for 54% of returns. Fast fashion has also contributed to an increase in styles and a decrease in stock keeping units. This has resulted to more inventory that ultimately goes into a landfill. Tukatech aims at helping visualizing the different styles without having to produce samples and thereby reducing cost and wastage. The organizations use their software to create virtual 3D samples of garments which can be shared with the buyer for approval and for further improvements. The future will further bridge the gap between virtual and real garments. The new business model entails designing, developing and selling digitally and then making what you sold.

The 2nd panel discussion titled “Jeans Finishing – Environmental Reboot” had innovative minds such as Manuj Kanchan, Dipankar Bose, Kishan Daga, and moderator Suvodeep Mukherjee critiquing the existing Finishing processes and how they are evolving to suit the environment.

To understand the severity of the environment issues, Dipankar Bose highlighted that Humans have been on this planet for 3 seconds if we consider the planet to be 24 hours old. The impact of those 3 seconds has been drastic and to some extent irreversible. In a span of 75 years, the chemical waste generated has increased multifold, but all is not lost. The key takeaways from this discussion were that there is an increased awareness among domestic players. There is a real deficit of start-up integrating the processes of fiber to fabric using eco-friendly means throughout. The decline in the market will favour the industry as only the business with the right long-term motives will sustain. The panel also discussed if the carbon footprint of cotton is more than that of manmade fibers.

The panel concluded, polyester being a synthetic fiber has a lower carbon footprint because cotton cultivation requires a lot of water and moreover there is a rising demand for recycled synthetic fibers.

The 2nd panel discussion was followed by a presentation by Vinod Krishnamurthy of Fortuna Colors, the man credited with introducing digital print to India. Digital print

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was better than traditional printing was the purity of the ink used and extent of washing required is less. He spoke about the climate capitalism being the next big thing in which people will be investing more on technologies that in one form or other will contribute to maintaining the ecological balance. His company not only trades and develops new technology in Inkjet printing but also provides services to see to it that their technology is used in the right and in optimum way.

The presentation by sponsors were taken forward by Rahul Mahajan of Datatex were he demonstrated how his IT solutions have helped measure and manage the activities of an organization be it ERP, machine scheduling etc.

B.K. Mohanty of Macpi, a final finishing machine provider demonstrated how their machine by the name “Finisher for Trouser” helps combat shrinkage in jeans and folds efficiently the treated garments with high productivity.

Mr. Jay Nagessure from Sip Italy explained that automation was the right way forward. He exclaimed the importance of SMV in the apparel industry and how their wide range of automated/semi-automated machines helps to meet the target SMVs.

he third panel titled “Start up in Blue Space” included entrepreneurs driving the apparel industry. The discussion was moderated by Mr. Pranav Khanna and the panelists included Sartaj Singh Mehta, Sanjay Goel, Padma Raj Keshri. The discussion arrived at the conclusion that key to running a business in this ear is winning the heart of the customers. Businesses are more focused on doing away with the middleman and captivating the customer directly. It is very important to manage sustaining the environment on one hand and sustaining your business on the other.

The seminar ended with a vote of Thanks by Kingshuk Pandit, Vice President of Tantu. It was indeed a time spent well learning about the engaging trends in the Jeans industry in terms of new technologies, perceptions, experiences and processes.

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EVENT REPORT “ITAMMA’S 22ND PRODUCT-CUM-CATALOGUE SHOW AT LUDHIANA RECEIVES OVERWHELMING RESPONSE DURING SO CALLED SLOW DOWN MARKET” SAYS JUGAL KISHORE PANSARI, PRESIDENT ITAMMA. Mr. Jugal Kishore Pansari, President ITAMMA informed that, when we declared about the event some 6 months before, there was a very good response by recording a booking of 40 stalls. However noting the slow down business trend in last 2-3 months, the members were in dilemma about the response of visitors to the event. Accordingly we started interacting with the Textile Industry representatives at Ludhiana, giving the details and the importance of our event ‘22nd Product-Cum-Catalogue Show’ scheduled on 20th Sept’2019 at Hotel Park Plaza in Ludhiana. This assignment was taken seriously and proactively by our Members and their agents and staff located in and around Ludhiana, thereby explaining the importance and the advantage of this event to the Industry people.

Mr. Pansari further added that during such business slow down, the Industry should spare some time on R & D, exploring statistical DATA, knowing new products & processes required by the Market as well as fruitful interaction with the Machine & Component manufacturers and suppliers for product diversification.

We also took efforts to address the PRESS & Media during the PRESS Conference organised at Hotel Park Plaza on 19th September, 2019; where about 25 Press & Media persons were present. The details of the Press Conference was published by the Local Newspapers Punjab Kesari, Jagbani, Dainik Jagaran, Dainik Savera, Ajit, etc. on 20th September, 2019; further creating an awareness and sensitization among the Textile Industries of Ludhiana.

This has eventually added on to our efforts in inviting the visitors, further recording the footfall of more than 480.

About 40 ITAMMA member-exhibitors displayed their products (list is given in Table-I) from PAN India, viz. Mumbai, Gwalior, Coimbatore, Ahmedabad.

their satisfaction.

On 19th September, 2019, as per our regular practice a Mill Visit to M/s. S.T. Cottex Export Pvt. Ltd., Machiwara, Ludhiana was organised where 17 ITAMMA members took an advantage to know the operational functions of the product, processes in the Mills.

The post event was also well published in the Local Newspapers viz., Punjab Kesari, Jagbani, Dainik Jagaran, Dainik Savera, Ajit, etc.

The members of ALMTI and FICCO from Machine Tool Industry also attended the show thus exploring the opportunity for good partners for transfer of technology and business tie-ups in the field of Textile Machines and Accessories manufacturing.

The event was financially supported by the Sponsors “Department of Co-operation, Marketing and Textiles, Government of Maharashtra” who promoted their activities in their Pavilion during the event. India ITME Society was also one of the Sponsors who promoted its forthcoming two events, ‘ITME Africa-2020 scheduled from 14-16 February, 2020 at Millennium Hall, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and ‘ITME-2020’ scheduled at Greater Noida, India, from 10-15 December, 2020. While ITAMMA Members viz, Dilip AN Company, Coimbatore, Precision Rubber Industries Pvt Ltd. Mumbai, SIMTA Manufacturing Company, Coimbatore and Supertex Industries, Mumbai were the CoSponsors.

Mr Pansari lastly thanked Sponsors, Co-sponsors, ITAMMA Member Exhibitors, Visitors and Hotel Management for their whole hearted co-operation to make this show a Grand Success.

The event was inaugurated by Mr. Aditya Sachan, Executive Director, M/s. S.T. Cottex Export Pvt. Ltd., Machiwara, Ludhiana and was concluded by the Networking Dinner to all the Visitors and Exhibitors.

Overall comments of more than 80% of the exhibitors are recorded as ‘Excellent’ for this event. Posters & Catalogues were displayed and distributed by the Exhibitors to the visitors. Visitors of the category President, Managing Director, Vice-President, Managers, Sr. Executives, Technicians and from different fields, viz. Spinning, Weaving, & Wet Processing of more than 30 industries viz. Vardhman Textile, Vardhman Polytex, Nahar Fibres, Nahar Industrial Enterprises Ltd, Ganga Acrowool ltd, Oswal woollen mills, Sportking Industries, Kaursain Spinners, Arisudana Industries, T C Spinners, Lalru, SEL Manufacturing Ltd, S T Cottex Exports, etc. attended the show and registered

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Inauguration of the event by Mr. Aditya Sachan, Executive Director, M/s.

S.T. Cottex Export Pvt. Ltd., Machiwara, Ludhiana

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EVENT REPORT

TEXWORLD PARIS In accurately interpreting the major market trends, Texworld Paris was able to attract some high-calibre professionals who thronged the aisles this year once again.

With 1014 exhibitors from 25 countries, Texworld Paris and Texworld Denim Paris have once more asserted their dominance as the undisputed leader when it comes to sourcing for fabrics, components, trimmings and materials for the clothing industry. Now spread across three halls in September, this remarkable event for anyone involved in creating fashion constitutes a real hub for finding inspiration and for procurement aimed at European and global buyers as a whole. The commitments made by Messe Frankfurt to encourage expressions of creativity in the major producing countries of Asia or its endeavours to provide greater exposure for companies, which are adopting new approaches as regards sustainable development, have been rewarded this year “We are delighted with the choices we have made and with the momentum that we have been able to generate at this season’s show, which took place in a climate of economic uncertainty. For the past two years, we have assembled everything of importance under the marketing banner of The Fairyland for Fashion, in order to provide professionals with what they come to find at Texworld Paris. Our goal: to be at the forefront for design, implementation and trade, but also to lead the way in giving exposure to new methods of manufacturing textile products. The expectations for sustainable development and consumption that are expressed clearly in public opinion and the measures, which we started to implement in response with our exhibitors 10 years ago, are today evident on all levels of the fashion ranges at Texworld Paris.

They are also manifest in every aisle, during discussions and at the lectures and they dictate what drives the markets” explains Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.

The ranges for sustainable sourcing, especially noticeable this year at Texworld Paris, represented a selection, which is growing in size, of almost 80 suppliers, who offered fabrics with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), Organic Exchange, Bluesign, SA8000 or WRAP certifications, as part of a very comprehensive choice of lines and materials. During an interview at the trade fair press conference, Mrs Yan Yan, director of the information centre for the Chinese textile industry, emphasised the development of ranges with certifications by Asian manufacturers: “the endeavours made over a number of years by the textile and clothing industry in the Far East are now helping to steer the nature of the global offer towards more sus-

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tainable products, in particular due to the importance of these companies in the market.”

Special signage this year allowed visitors to identify added environmental value offered by exhibitors, depending on whether it related to eco-friendly or bio-based materials, environmentally friendly processes or certified social standards and fair trade, or all of these advantages together (eco-friendly materials and procedures plus social standards).

Similarly, following the “Artisan” circuit, which was first introduced in February and which was packed during this autumn’s show, allowed buyers on the lookout for short runs to find suppliers whose offers matched their requirements and were frequently based on traditional craftsmanship.

As ever, Texworld‘s artistic directors showcased the current styles at the show in two Trends areas, the general Trends Forum and the Sustainable Trends Forum, in order to demonstrate the creative capacity of exhibitors at Texworld Paris. Going by the name Réenchantement, the trends focussed on four themes: Apocalyptic Fascination, Immemorial Spell, Synthetic Dazzle and Astral Ecstasy.

Both visitors and exhibitors signalled their approval. It allowed everyone to be organised and to explore the different trends presented at Texworld Paris from a purely creative angle in just one place.

The trade fair presented an expression of diversity and creative progress that was popular with visitors, even more so as the advance work carried out by Messe Frankfurt regarding the trends makes planning their circuits easier for buyers: “The show enables me to find solutions for fabrics and materials that are right for me” stressed Agathe Coudert, director at Apostrophe George Rech Paris. “The work undertaken ahead of the shows for the preselection process provides an overview and saves a lot of time.” Where Lamine Kouyaté, artistic director at the

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EVENT REPORT

The major players in the clothing sector for their part targeted their searches towards the additional services offered by the 29 exhibitors in the Elite segment. This area once again was a resounding success with buyers, in particular European ones, who recognised the quality offered by the selected exhibitors. These firms, known for their quality, competitiveness, responsiveness and services, are able to provide a response for the most cuttingedge and discerning markets for global fashion designer labels. There were seven newcomers, including six Turkish firms and one Chinese company.

This did not go unnoticed by contractors. They were very busy in this area that is particular appreciated by readyto-wear labels: “a consistent and interesting space that

Results Messe Frankfurt France’s trade shows dedicated to the fashion industry attracted 14,862 visitors, who thronged the aisles at The Fairyland for Fashion. 213 people did not attend. After a 2018 show that was quite extraordinary, the September 2019 show recorded rather more consistent results, with positive overtones on the whole.

The top 5 visitors remain unchanged in spite of economic pressure and the political situation: 1 - France, 2 - United Kingdom, 3 – Spain, 4 – Italy, 5 Turkey We would draw particular attention to the increase in visitors attending from Poland (+11%), which attests to the important role played by this country in European sourcing. For those attending from countries outside Europe, footfall remained encouraging, with a return in force from Turkey (+17%), as well as from other major importer countries such as Morocco (+19%) from the African continent and, it goes without saying, China (+41%). United States (+1%), Canada (+14%) and Brazil (+15%) also attended this season’s show.

‘‘

is very suitable for making for high-calibre contacts” explains Omar Kaskas, manager at Kaskas Co. This blend of competitive and creative approaches was rounded off this year by a series of exhibitions, such as that devoted to the Dinan International Festival for Fashion Designers, where prize winners (Anaël Paris, Daniela Schmid and Damko) showed their collections in a fashion area located between Hall 2 and 3. This extremely busy area also hosted the Replica exhibition, organised around a creative dialogue between students at HEAR and Chinese clothing manufacturers. Supported by the Messe Frankfurt France trade fairs, the design students at Haute École des Arts du Rhin (HEAR) presented the results of their discussions and their work with five Chinese clothing manufacturers, weavers and embroiderers, who were exhibitors at the Apparel Sourcing and Texworld Paris shows.

“The market is difficult but those who have the products and skills that appeal were able to make the most of the situation. Despite less time spent by visitors, the number of people attending still reported excellent business. There is an explanation for this: exhibitors at our trade shows are increasingly adapting to the demands of the market and becoming ever better at doing so. These efforts were rewarded with an excellent atmosphere and significant results, especially among the top companies.

Overall we noticed some instability on the markets due to uncertainty caused by the turbulence in relations between certain countries. Exhibitors and visitors with most experience of the market were more than able to benefit from this situation. We note that a number of our exhibitors have adapted to meet the demands of customers, who wish to place orders for smaller quantities. They have also recorded increases in their turnover” says Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.

“Truth is not something outside to be discovered, it is something inside to be realized.”

‘‘

Malian label Xuly Bët, is concerned, this perspective offered by Texworld Paris “gives an indication of the current situation in textiles and the strategies adopted by major contractors. It’s up to designers like us to interpret them...”

— Osho.

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October 2019

SHOW REPORT PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS

OVER 56,000 VISITORS CAME TO SEEK INSPIRATION AND INNOVATION AT THE SEPTEMBER 2019 EDITION y The September 2019 edition of Première Vision Paris, the leading professional show for the creative fashion industry, was held from 17 to 19 September in Paris Nord Villepinte. The event, dedicated to the autumnwinter 2020-21 collections, welcomed 56,154 visitors from across the globe: y 2,056 exhibitors, including 230 newcomers, were on hand to reveal their latest innovations.This edition’s offer focused on key industrypriorities: eco-responsible fashion, thedigitalization of the sector, the everstrengthening link between the worlds ofsport and fashion, and support for innovationand young creative talent.

tegrated into the PV Awards and rebaptisedthe «PV Awards NextGen». y The 11th edition of the PV Awards was chairedby Dutch artist and designer Bart Hess. Todiscover the winners of the most outstanding,inventive and innovative fabric creations andleathers, go to the NEWSROOM section on thePremière Vision website. y 278 fashion manufacturers from 5 continentswere at the show to offer an increasinglydiversified and transversal manufacturing-sourcing offer, representing the full gamut ofmanufacturing know-hows needed by fashionand accessory brands, as part of a strengthenedPV Manufacturing platform.

The conference programme: a resounding success This autumn edition highlighted the interest and trust that visitors have in the foresight the show provides regarding the industry’s challenges. A study and suggested solutions were proposed to complement the exclusive fashion information produced each season by the Première Vision Fashion team, designed to inspire buyers and guide them in the process of creating their new collections.

Packed crowds attended this edition’s conferences: y 1,200m2 dedicated to eco-responsible fashionin the Smart Creation Area. 50 handpickedexhibitors (including 30 new ones) introducedtheir latest innovations - from sourcing rawmaterials to industrial processes - for moresustainable, eco-designed and ethical fashions. y A sports and tech universe bringing togetherthe largest suppliers of innovative materialsand textiles for the worlds of sportswear andperformance. This year’s theme: protection andinsulation from the elements through clothing. y A special showcase of the leather sector including a 60m2 space - PV ManufacturingLeather - created in collaboration with LesCompagnons du Devoir, to shine a light on thetechnical know-how of 38 companies in termsof the construction of leather bags, shoes andclothing. y A Première Vision Designs space at theforefront of creativity, with 248 exhibitors-creative studios, independent designers -including 28 newcomers and the 24 finalists ofthe TexSelect® British textile design competition. Now taken over by Première Vision, as of its next edition in September 2020 TexSelect® will bein-

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• The Innovation Talks Area in Hall 3 hosted conferences on key issues for the future of the industry. These were very well attended, in particular the presentation of the results of the new study carried out as part of the IFM x Première Vision Chair on «Consumer Trends in Eco-Responsible Fashion», which canvassed 5,000 consumers in France, Italy, Germany and the United States to pinpoint their expectations and priorities in terms of sustainable fashion. For a summary report of the study, go to the NEWSROOM section of the Première Vision website.

• The Fashion Talks Area in Hall 6 was the venue for exclusive fashion seminars prepared and presented by the Première Vision fashion team to help decode the AutumnWinter 20/21 season. Attendance at these conferencesincreased by 14%, demonstrating a real interest in their content. To read a summary of the fashion information presented at this edition, go to the NEWSROOM section of the Première Vision website.

A benchmark event that brings together visitors from all over the world 56,154 creative-fashion professionals, 74% of them international, attended Première Vision Paris at this edition.

Attendance was down slightly, by 1.89%, over the year

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SHOW REPORT ago show (which welcomed 57,234 visitors, according to the new OJS calculation standards with which Première Vision has opted to comply with as of this edition).

• In 8th place among visiting countries, Turkey regis-

The decrease was attributable to several factors: a challenging economic climate, marked by concerns aboutBrexit, a continued decline in fashion consumption, and acrowded calendar bracketing the show, which was held between the London and Milan Fashion Weeks.

Nevertheless, Première Vision Paris remains a tremendousdraw for the major international fashion players, with visitors to the event coming from 136 countries.

Visitors to Première Vision Paris came once again mainly from European countries (73%). France leads the pack with 30% of visitors, a slight decline. Italy, in second place, remained stable at 8% of attendance, and was followed by the United Kingdom, which fell sharply due to Brexit.

These countries are followed by Spain (5% of visitors), Germany (4% of visitors) and Belgium. The Northern European countries, references in Mterms of creativity, were also in attendance, led by Sweden and Denmark.

• A growing number of Asian visitors, now accounting for nearly 12% of the attendance at this edition. The top three remain the same as for the September 2018 edition: China in firstplace with 5% of attendance, followed

by Japan and South Korea.

• North America saw a significant increase compared to the September 2018 edition, andaccounted for more than 5% of visitors.

tered an increase in its attendance and accounted for 3% of visitors.

BRAND FOCUS

A.T.E.’S CONTRIBUTIONS TO INDIA’S SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

The average global temperature is on the rise, and according to a report published by a climate watch magazine, Climate.gov, the 10 warmest years on record have all occurred since 1998; 9 of the 10 have occurred since 2005. The report further states that by 2020, the global surface temperature will be more than 0.5°C warmer than the 1986-2005 average.

Countries like India with tropical climates would be hit hard by the increasing temperature. This would lead to an increasing demand for cooling systems. However, conventional cooling systems, mainly the air conditioners, are energy guzzlers and also use the refrigerants that are harmful to the environment. How do we resolve this conundrum?

ogy, about 12 years ago, that has today revolutionised the concept of cooling. The technology, known as IDEC or Indirect Direct Evaporative Cooling, has the well-proven and unique DAMA (dry air most air) as its core, and is based on the principles of evaporative cooling. The DAMA is patented in India, Australia, and the United States. This technology provides comfort cooling using just about 50% energy of conventional air conditioners, and replaces the ozone

A.T.E. had the foresight to envisage the urgent need for an alternate eco-friendly technology that would provide cooling and comfort. So, it invested in a nascent technol-

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October 2019

BRAND FOCUS depleting refrigerants used for cooling with nature’s own coolant, i.e., water. In addition, it provides 100% fresh air, thus creating a healthy and more productive environment.

April 2013). A report published by Down to Earth in April 2016 shows that 78% of the sewage generated in India is untreated; similar statistics for industrial wastewater are not readily available.

A.T.E. is a leader in textile engineering with 80 years of experience and its foray into a totally unrelated territory had surprised many, but A.T.E.’s passion and commitment to environment transcends business and profit to societal wellbeing.

So, why not look at the wastewater as the most secure source of fresh water? With this idea, A.T.E. invested in the business of treatment and recycling of wastewater and was recently joined by HUBER SE, Germany, the world leader in the field, to form A.T.E. HUBER Envirotech Private Limited (AHET).

A.T.E.’s cooling business is handled by its business unit HMX which has already supplied more than 60 million CFM in India and other markets, cooling an area of more than 12 million sq. ft., encompassing both the industrial and commercial segments and for varying applications.

Out of the 60 million CFM, close to 15% of the CFM is supplied to commercial segment. With upto 50% power saving compared to air conditioning, this technology offers huge potential to save energy while providing a cool and healthy ambience for the people inside the conditioned space.

It is with the same passion and commitment that A.T.E. also invested in the wastewater business in the year 2008.

India, which is home to nearly 18% of the world’s population has only about 4% of the world’s water resources.

The NITI Aayog’s Composite Water Management Index June 2018 presents a grim water situation in India. As per the report, currently, 600 million Indians face high to extreme water stress and about two hundred thousand people die every year due to diseases that are linked to inadequate access to safe water. The report goes on to say that the crisis is only going to get worse, and by 2030 the country’s water demand is projected to be twice the available supply, implying severe water scarcity for hundreds of millions of people and an eventual ~6% loss in the country’s GDP.

AHET offers a comprehensive range of solutions for wastewater treatment, recycling, zero liquid discharge and sludge management covering both industrial and municipal sectors. AHET has introduced several novel technologies for industrial wastewater treatment. AAA® technology is a highly successful innovation that treats textile wastewater. AVR® based anaerobic bio-methanation plants have been proven to degrade fat successfully in the dairy industry. AHR handles difficult to treat effluents from pharma and petrochem, whereas SUFRO®, an ultra-high flow submerged UF membranes followed by a reverse osmosis membrane system, provide simple and hassle free recycling of wastewater.

AHET in collaboration with HUBER SE, Germany, also offers innovative and highly efficient equipment for municipal wastewater treatment right from headworks to comprehensive sludge management including faecal sludge treatment.Thus, the endeavour at AHET is to make wastewater the most reliable source of fresh water for industry and mankind.

Another area that A.T.E. invested in that underscores its commitment to the environment is for the development of solar heating solutions. This business is handled by its business unit HMX. With years of R&D and long term in-field testing, A.T.E. has developed an innovative Concentrated Solar Thermal (CST) system that can provide steam (up to 160ºC and 6 bar pressure) and process heat for various industrial and commercial applications.

A.T.E. is also active in the space of Industrial IoT, through its business unit, EcoAxis, which helps businesses improve their bottom lines by unlocking intelligence of things using IoT based advanced analytics. Key environmental benefits of EcoAxis’ IoT solutions are material and energy resource optimisation.

Contributing significantly to India’s water scarcity is the increasing generation of wastewater and its unsafe disposal. Two main sources of wastewater are sewage and industrial waste. It is estimated that around 62,000 million litres of sewage is generated in India every day (source: MakanIQ, July 2017), while 13,468 million litres per day of wastewater is generated by industries in India (FICCI

October 2019

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A.T.E.’s concern and contributions to the environment also encompasses its own operations, under the theme Aiding The Environment. Two of its newly built facilities are certified green buildings, A.T.E. has installed rooftop solar panels in some of its facilities, and also drives green practices like waste segregation, conservation of power, water, and paper with total employee involvement.

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SHOW CALENDAR OCTOBER 2019 22-24

FILTECH Cologne/Germany www.filtech.de

10-13

DOMOTEX 2020 Hannover / Germany www.domotex.de

20-24

Udyog 2020 Surat / India www.udyog.sgcci.in

30-31

NGF 2020 Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in

NOVEMBER 2019 1-4

MTG Yangon/ Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com

12-14

International Sourcing Expo Melbourne / Australia www.internationalsourcingexpo.com

13-15

INTEX SOUTH ASIA Colombo / Srilanka www.intexfair.com/

16-18

TexHub Istanbul / Turkey www.texhubistanbul.com/tr/

20-22

Techtexil INDIA Mumbai / India techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com

20-23

VTG 2019 Ho Chi Minh city/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com

25-28

SHANGHAITEX 2019 Shanghai / China www.shanghaitex.cn

27-30

WEAVES 2019 Erode/ India http://texvalleyindia.com/

FEBRUARY 2020 5-6

Worcs, WR9 8ED/UK https://www.technical-textiles.net 14-16

ITME AFRICA 2020 Ethopia / Africa www.itme-africa.com

20-23

DTG 2020 Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com

26-28

Filtxpo – 2019 Navy Pier/Chicago IL/USA http://www.filtxpo.com

March 2020 5-6

ITMACH INDIA Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com

18-20

YFA Bhilawara/ India http://yfatradeshow.com

20-22

YARNEX Ludhiana / India http://yarnex.in/

JANUARY 2020 7-10

YARN EXPO Shanghai/ China https://yarn-expo-spring. k.messefrankfurt.com

11-13

Intertextile Shanghai Shanghai/ China https://intertextile-shanghaiapparel-fabrics spring. hk.messefrankfurt.com/ shanghai/en.html

11-13

PREMIER VISION Paris / France www.premierevision.com

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JUNE 2020 2–6

HEIMTEXTIL 2020 Frankfurt / Germany heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

Texcon – 2020 Indore MP/ India www.svvv.edu.in

11-13

DECEMBER 2019 5-8

Textile Opportunities 2020 UK

ITM 2020 Istanbul Istanbul, Turkey https://www.itmexhibition.com/ itm2020

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October 2019

TVC DELEGATION DELEGATION BY TVC MEDIA TO SHANGHAI, CHINA in September 2019 for the first time and they have explored new fibers/ yarns, variety of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, new systems, software, integration of robot in the process, much more to learn.

Young and Enthusiastic group explored all 10 halls of all 3 Exhibitions, few attended knowledgeable conference/ seminar.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Media arranged Business Tour for YARN EXPO 2019 / INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI 2019 / PH VALUE on 25th to 27th September, 2019 for benefits of Textile Fraternity. This is the 3rd time our Media arranging delegation to International Trade Show for industry.

Purpose of taking delegation is to explore International Market, network one to one with Indian Industry fraternity across the value chain of Textile Industry. This Delegation consist of 10 people across the value chain, they are as follows : Mr. Raj Bhimani from WINTAS TEXTILES , Mr. Mangilal Baid from RAKESH GROUP, Mr. Jashvant Thoriya and Mr. Shital Kanani from RAJESHWARI WEAVETEX LLP, Ms. Karuna Chauhan, Mr. Jaydev Chauhan, Mr. Vanraj Jadeja from AMBER SPINTEX, Mr. Ram Gopal Tiwari and Mrs. Shashibala Tiwari from GOPAL ENGINEERING COMPANY, Mr. Vinay Nathani from VIYA CORPORATION. Group has mix of Yarn Manufactures, Dealer, and Fabric Manufacturer. Entire group have visited these exhibition

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Entire group had given a special Elite Buyers Badge by Exhibition Organizer and given special invite for events. These Privileges given to only TVC Media Group from India. Exhibition has 120 delegates across world from 11 countries mainly from South Asian Countries. EU and USA was missing due to Premier Vision in the past week of exhibition. Inter-textile has completed its 25 years of exhibition which is complementing China’s 70 years anniversary.

Few Group members also attended CISMA Exhibition, Apparel and Accessories machinery Exhibition which is enriching experience for investors in garment sector. Our group is like family, who has supported each other so well in language barrier country and became life time friends / business associates.

It’s only enriching experience; it can’t be explained by more words…!! Be there next time with us for exotic experience!!!

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INTERVIEW UNDERSTANDING THE CUSTOMER REQUIREMENTS KEY IN YARN CARRIERS drawing of the manufacturer, we add the customers’ input, customize them accordingly.”, he further added.

Moksha has a wide variety of spinning yarn carriers where the sizes range from 150 mm and it goes up to 500 mm or at times 600 mm.

Rajeev said, “The industry started with 2mm thickness for the ring tube if we are speaking. Then the auto doffing machines have been introduced, widely in India especially. And as per the specifications of the manufacturer, we used to provide the thickness like 3 mm, 3.5mm as per the manufacturer’s recommendation. There we don’t do any changes. We go as per the manufacturer’s recommendation.

These days we have been introduced with slim line series of the tubes.

The specialty of those tubes is very thin, catering to more yarn content RAJEEV SHAH, MANAGING DIRECTOR, MOKSHA THERMOPLASTICS and energy saving.” Speaking on the uniqueness of his solution, he said, “ Ahmedabad based Moksha Technoplastics is one of the Our product is different than in a way we select specialty leaders in the yarn carrier players in India. Moksha has material, and as I told you we design, the tubes and we the most modern Injection Moulding plant - spread over select specific raw materials to balance the load, which is 30 Thousand Ft. area having its own in-house tool-room asserted on the tube.” and latest mould manufacturing facilities. The recent expansion of its manufacturing facilities is just completed. Expansion plans: The company has also started focussing strategically in Speaking on the expansion plans, he said, “As we see the the neighborhood markets too. market situations are very skeptical. However, we had “To achieve top performance it is very important to know come up with all the ranges of major machinery comthe requirements of the downstream processes to opti- panies in India. We are always open to developing new mize and design these bobbins accordingly. The result is products, depending upon the market demand.” Moksha a variety of bobbin formats and tailor-made solutions for is further strengthening its focus on modernization these yarn and package dyeing machines. We use a common days. By adopting the latest technology and trends, the philosophy as these tools enable the customer to pro- company is replacing their old machines with the latest duce valuable products.”, said Rajev Shah, MD, Moksha technology of whatever available in the market for injection molding. Focus is also put on automation in the plant Thermoplastics. to get the repeatability of the product.

“Ours is a design company. Rather than manufacturing yarn carriers, we try to understand from the customers Currently, Moksha has 40% revenue coming from their their need. As per the drawing prescribed by the manufac- exports to key markets in Asia like Bangladesh, Indonesia turer, we interact with the customers we develop a solu- and more. tion that will cater to their storage needs. Within the same

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October 2019

INTERVIEW IN INDIA, 60% SPINDLES RUNNINGARE DECADE-OLD To meet constantly growing requirements, Rieter fundamentally redefined services and offers the most complete range of services on the market. From installation along the entire product life cycle, Rieter experts help customers on their road to success.

What are the top 5 ways your machines are different from others.

Prasanta Deka, Market Head (India), Rieter India Rieter is one of the technology leaders in the field of staple fiber spinning. Since the company was established, Rieter claims their innovation momentum has been a powerful driving force for industrial progress. With increasing market share of the product in India, Prasanta Deka, Market Head (India), Rieter India, speaks exclusively to Textile Value Chain their new digital offering ‘ESSENTIAL’, the post-sale support, and expectations from the government. Edited excerpts.

How is your post sale support and how are you ensuring the long-life of your machines?

Rieter already has in place successful Sales and After Sales service setup in India since 1995. Rieter enables spinning mills to achieve high efficiency rates and a competitive advantage over their entire life cycle. Through premium, innovative parts and in-house expertise, Rieter maintains and enhances the performance of existing spinning machines.

To improve lifetime, productivity and/or quality of existing equipment, Rieter offers modernization solutions: retrofits and upgrades which enhance the performance of old generation machines over its lifetime to be competitive to new generation machines. Performance Optimization Services help mills to grow. Through a detailed on-site analysis of the spinning mill, from fiber preparation to end spinning, Rieter identifies potential performance improvements and ways to reduce variable cost. The implementation of recommended solutions enables customers to achieve their specific requirements and strategic goals.

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Rieter creates value for customers by system competence, innovative solutions, excellent after sales service and global presence. To the key issues for the competitiveness of spinning mills, the company presents valueadding innovations that offer: hh High and above all consistent yarn quality. hh Reduction of the conversion cost. hh Increasing the raw material yield. hh Decrease in the energy consumption. hh Increase in flexibility to respond to demand changes in the market.

How are you ensuring the ease-of-operation of your machines and how are you ensuring that operating your machine is easily communicated to various people?

Rieter is well aware of the requirements for spinning-mill systems in terms of automation and logistics. It goes without saying that the customer’s specific wishes are valued

by Rieter.

With ‘ESSENTIAL’ – the new Rieter Digital Spinning Suite, it makes possible to operate and control spinning mills with just a few clicks. ‘ESSENTIAL’ leverages digital technology for the textile value creation. The system provides meaningful key performance indicators and visualizes improvements for the entire spinning process. It integrates Rieter’s digital offerings, provides customized interfaces to ERP systems and connects third-party machines. With comprehensive and clearly arranged digital analytics this powerful tool supports the management in order to strengthen the expertise of mill staff, eliminate inefficiencies and optimize costs.

What are the new machines you are coming up with and what are the key pain points of the mill owners are addressed from that.

It is very important that a spinning mill production that is profitable now, also remains profitable in the future. A Rieter system is more than the combination of Rieter machines. Buying a Rieter system means producing the right yarn with consistent quality and at competitive cost, taking advantage of Rieter’s system expertise and technical

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INTERVIEW support over the lifetime of the equipment and leveraging system integration in terms of material flow and digitization. These would be key concerns of any mill owner where Rieter system can contribute to their success.

high productivity and high machine availability with low raw material costs. Rieter also introduced the economical air-jet spinning process for highest quality yarns made from 100% combed cotton.

At ITMA 2019, Rieter presented a comprehensive range of innovations for all four spinning mill systems established on the market. These innovations are aimed at reducing the raw material, energy and labor costs while increasing productivity and flexibility in the spinning mill. Rieter also presented new solutions for the production of innovative yarns and the automation and flexibility of existing systems, as well as the further development of the digital platform ESSENTIAL.

All these innovations were received very positively by the many customers that Rieter welcomed at the trade fair.

Rieter therefore achieved an important milestone in the implementation of its corporate strategy and is now focusing on the successful market launch.

Let me briefly talk about our innovations: The blowroom VARIOline with the new UNIclean B 15 brings significant improvements in terms of energy consumption and the cleaning result for all spinning processes. The same applies to the new high-performance card C 80, which offers an unrivaled level of productivity.

To increase the cost-effectiveness of the ring spinning and compact-spinning process, Rieter revealed the new comber E 90, the new roving frame F 40, the piecing robot ROBOspin – one of the highlights of the ITMA 2019 – and two different compacting units that can easily be installed on and removed from a ring spinning machine: COMPACTdrum and COMPACTeasy.

Innovations that bring considerable improvements in efficiency for the rotor spinning process were also presented. The draw frame module RSB-Module 50 can be used in combination with the high-performance card C 80 and can be configured to a highly efficient direct process with the new semi-automated rotor spinning machine R 37 or the fully automated rotor spinning machine R 70. Both machines are characterized by low energy consumption,

What are your expansion plans in India?

Our production facility in Pune is part of our global network of operations. We produce here machines for the local and the global market. With ‘operational excellence’, Rieter is constantly working to streamline all its processes to achieve shorter lead times and greater flexibility.

We have developed the capacity required for Rieter to cater to the Indian market with all planned investments been executed. It is always a challenge to foresee how the industry will develop in future. Any additional investment into Indian production will depend on the market need in future.

As a manufacturer of Yarn machineries, please send me the challenges you face in India. What are your expectations from the Government?

Indian Spinning Industry is quite advanced with latest technology machines. However, we still have 60% of installed spindles which are more than 10 years old. While many new units came up with Central and State investment schemes, old stand-alone units are unable to modernize and upgrade their technologies due to lack of sufficient funds. Even though Rieter has developed upgrades and retrofits for such old stand-alone mills, customers are unable to take the benefits due to lack of funds.

Another challenge for our customer is investment cost. It is important to understand the total value of offering in the long run for a system offering like Rieter.

Spinning is capital intensive and it is important that the equipment deliver long term values to maximize return over the life cycle of plant. Lower initial investment with no long term values may not be the right decision.

Global textile industry is moving towards digitalization and e-management systems across the value chain. The challenge is to make our customers aware about the need of such digital suite to enhance plant efficiency, flexibility and optimize maintenance cost in the long run.

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October 2019

October 2019

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55

rd INTL. TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION

3

5 6 7 8 December 2019 The Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India

DISCOVER PROMISING MARKETS & EXPLORE NEW CUSTOMERS

See the latest textile machinery and technology, experience it first hand

Meet the technical experts from leading textile machinery & technology suppliers, Industry professionals. Discuss business ideas & network

Learn about the trends, developments & opportunities. Share knowledge and fine-tune ideas CONFERENCES & SHOWS: “Sommet-De-Couleur- 2019” By SDC International “World Costume 2019” Fashion Show By ISFT College & Institute Largest Textile Machinery Exhibition of 2019 in India

One of the Top Two Textile Machinery Exhibitions in India

35,000+ Business Visitors from Pan India

30,000+ Sqm of Exhibition Space

Right Exhibition for those who missed ITMA Barcelona ITMACH India assisted in Technology Adoption by Industry, Stimulated Investment

PARTICIPATION FEE

Stall Booking Enquiry:

Shell Scheme: US$ 250 / ` 12,000 per Sq. Meter.

Bare Space: US$ 225 / ` 11,000 per Sq. Meter.

GST applicable 18% Note: Foreign Exhibitors MUST pay Participation Fee in US Dollar

Arvind Semlani: +91 9833977743 | info@ITMACH.com

ORGANISER

MEDIA PARTNERS

SUPPORTING INDUSTRY ASSOCIATIONS

Amey Dangarwala: +91 9375064401 | amey@ITMACH.com

The Ahmedabad Textile Processors’ Association

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www.truetzschler.com

TD 9T Is it possible to achieve maximum economic efficiency and reliability in the smallest of spaces?

The answer is a definite Yes when it comes to our new breaker Draw Frame TD 9T. It is available as twin draw frame or single version, thus Due to its intelligent concept, the twin version is compact and requires little space.

every even or uneven number of drawing heads can be implemented.

For the first time in short staple spinning, it also features a new can format: Jumbo Cans with 1,200 mm diameter reduce the number of can transports and significantly improve the efficiency of the downstream machines.

Getting fibers into shape – since 1888.

58 TRĂœ-15003_ANZ_TD 9T_A4_211015_RZ.indd 1

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100% NATURAL ORIGIN

PRESENTING RAYSIL 100% NATURAL AND UNMATCHED IN ELEGANCE. Made from premium, imported wood pulp that gives a feather-light feel, vivid colours and a natural lustre for new age royalty.

Contact: Mumbai: 022-66917930/31 Surat: 0261-4003361/62/66 Delhi: 011-41306630/31

VISCOSE FILAMENT YARNS FROM INDIAN RAYON October 2019

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raysil@adityabirla.com www.adityabirla.com

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October 2019