Agriculture, Culture and tourism around the Great White Wine from Piedmont
CONSORZIO TUTELA DEL GAVI
The Gavi Cortese White Wine and its gracious land The DOCG (Controlled Designation of Origin Guaranteed) Cortese white wine is produced in a borderland, rich in history and tales to be told and lived
What makes Italian products so special? What is the secret of our wines, cold cuts and cheese — to name but a few — that — thanks to their top quality and variety — make our country the most powerful country in the world in the wine and food sector? Our expertise, traditions, creativity and innovation blended together and characterizing our agricultural and food production and supply chain are certainly the rock solid foundations our achievements are based on. However, I am persuaded that the added value enriching our excellent food production is also — and mainly — due to the land which they come from. History, art and culture, orography, meteorology and our environment, these are all “ingredients” that make our land and its products unique. Let’s take the Gavi wine for instance: the stretch of land that comprises the 11 districts where the Great White Wine is produced is unique, a borderland where the sea and mountain breezes meet and blend together. Mansions, hamlets and castles tell the story of an ancient tradition according to which the oldest Gavi vineyards were planted on the land owned by the bishop of Genoa and date back to 972 AD. All of this can be found in the bottles of our Gavi DOCG white wine, and this is so much more than the technical characteristics according to which wine is assessed at the international level. Wine — but also cold cuts or cheese — may be enjoyed even more if you are aware of their history and if you have experienced the land. The Laboratorio Gavi aims at telling these stories as best we can and share them with the other actors of our quality food sector. Let’s start with the Gavi stories — of course — to look further ahead. Piero Broglia
President Consortium for the Protection of the Gavi Wine
GAVI, what a wonder! Its magical hinterland, the most enjoyable territory, just one hour from Milan
It’s a weird story, the Gavi white wine’s. After the barbarian invasions, which were mainly Lombardic invasions, vineyards are planted again as white grapes, since Saint Colomban, who came from Ireland, was not familiar with red wine and wanted a type of light wine. It’s the VII-VIII century, and after a while, this kind of vineyards is also planted in this area of Piedmont. It was planted here, and later in the Langhe area, where people from Piedmont — who are French within — would choose the red variety. In the Gavi area, people are Ligurian within, and people from Liguria are aware that the best you can have with sea fish is white wine. The special republican community that flourishes along the coast - the severe, fragile and aggressive Rolli community - is thus able to enjoy the hinterland, the countryside that knows how to enjoy life, which is the opposite of what you enjoy when journeying the sea. In this land, the best wine ever found its origin: this is how the Cortese white wine - a very easy word to understand - is thus created, the Gavi wine, one of most sophisticated, dedicated and magical white wines that can be found in old Europe. One of the most mysterious routes of the past 600 years of human history passed though this land, the Salt Route, that reached France and passed through the Monviso, to deliver salt to corn anchovies: salted anchovies, fresh fish, excellent vegetables and white wine, the Cortese white wine. Vineyards change the landscape, the hill outline and an amazing atmosphere is thus created, and it’s not only the wine, it’s the landscape too, which really must be discovered. A magical place, which seems to be hidden away, but it’s close, just an hour from Milan. And you can find all of this in a tiny plot of land: our excellent quality on 1500 hectares. Philippe Daverio
Excerpt from the video “Storie del Gavi” (The Gavi Tales)
GAVI 972, THE ANCIENT WHITE WINE The Great White Wine in the land of Red Wines
Piedmont is home to a unique stretch of land: the sea is 30 km away, it is located in the southern part of the Po Valley and it crawls up the hills and the mountains of the Ligurian Apennines. An endless string of hills, vineyards, woods and castles characterizes this land that comprises 11 districts located within the designation area of the DOCG Gavi white wine. The pure Cortese. The Great White Wine. The sea breeze that blows in from the Ligurian sea and the Apennines snow make this small corner of Piedmont a very special place, where you can smell Ligurian aromas. Cold winters and warm and windy summers, the altitude of the hills and illumination, the marly, calcareous and clay soil create this great white wine: its delicate and elegant perfumes, mineral — yet very rich — taste, that is drunk when young, but its characteristics remain unchanged over time. An old wine that is as ancient as the wine-growing tradition of this land, dating back to 972 AD, even before the year 1000. At that time, the unexpected vivacity of the “Oltregiogo” (i.e. the hub for trade and travel of the town of Genoa) really started to develop. This was fertile and rich land, the “Via Postumia” and the “Via del Sale” passed through this territory, as well as many trade routes.Genoa’s aristocratic families - who already controlled overseas trade - soon settled in this land. The Doria, Spinola, Adorno, Malaspina, Grimaldi and Grillo families built their mansions in the area and owned woods, vineyards, mills and spinning mills and sawmills and thus became wealthier and wealthier, increased their importance and influence. They introduced those features that were typical of Genoa and that are still there: the architecture, the narrow alleys (the caruggi) that still go through the many hamlets of the land, the territorial identity of the local municipalities, the name is always followed by the adjective “Ligurian”, the dialect that is spoken here and the local recipes that use vegetables and fish. This is why, in Piedmont, where red wines are king, there is this great white wine, the Cortese, Gavi DOCG.
TASTE STORIES BIRTHPLACE OF “RAVIOLI” Border cooking
In the Gavi land, traditions are also found in the cooking, heritage becomes recipes, and recipes become legend. This is what happened with the Raviolo family, who used to live in the area, and legend has it that they invented the famous “ravioli” stuffed pasta, the recipe is now accurately protected by an order of knights, the “Ordine Orbetengo dei Cavalieri del Raviolo e del Gavi”, which has been working to protect it for over 40 years. The Gavi’s raviolo pasta is prepared by using pork and bovine meat, eggs, cheese, borages and prickly lettuce. It is characterised by a very thin sheet of pasta dough and can be eaten with the “tocco”, the local meat sauce; with wine and “a culo nudo”, i.e. without seasoning. For those who love “street food”, a tiny shop in Gavi sells ravioli pasta to take away: they are home made, pan-fried, golden coloured, they are served hot in a paper cornet, so you can eat them one after the other while wandering through the streets of Gavi. This area is very well know for the long and old tradition of making fresh pasta, so you may also taste taglierini and lasagnette, also known as “stringoni” and “corzetti” flavoured with game, mushrooms, tomatoes or pesto sauce, according to the season. Farinata and focaccia are two examples of the simple and tasty food of the Gavi area: “freshly baked” in the morning or with added potatoes in the afternoon; and you can also taste the testa in cassetta sausage, which is prepared by using leftovers from noble pork cuts, such as the pig head, the tongue, the muscles and the bovine heart. Meat is cooked in salted water, tapped with a knife, flavoured with spices and aromatic herbs, you must let it stand overnight and put a weight on it so to give it its typical flat shape. And then desserts: the soft Amaretti di Gavi, made with almonds, sugar, egg white and honey, the patented recipe of which dates back to 1780. Last but not least, the chocolate from Novi, which is so good and tasty that — rumours have it — Swiss too are annoyed by it.
OUR JOURNEY THROUGH THE GAVI AREA An amazing welcome thanks to its history, art, natural environment, food and wine, golf courses and fashion shopping
Our journey through the Gavi land starts from the top of the hills, from its Fort, a symbol of the strategic position of this land. Its construction began in the XII century and it has been built and rebuilt many times over the centuries. At first, it was a castle, it was then transformed into a fortress and was able to accommodate a garrison of 1000 men that were there to protect the Cortese land. These days, if you walk up to its fortifications, you can see the Apennines, smell the sea breeze and enjoy the vineyards, woods and small lakes that are scattered all around. The view from the Fort invites you to relax and relish the slow atmosphere of these hills; here you can hike or ride your mountain bike in the Borbera and Lemme valleys. Those who love green tourism explore the “Capanne di Marcarolo” or “Laghi del Gorzente e Lavagnina” natural reserves, and those who love history visit the Libarna archaeological site in Serravalle Scrivia. There’s also the International Geo site of Carrosio — which is visited by many scholars and geologists every year — since it is the conventional proof showing the passage between the Paleogene and Neogene geologic periods and tells us the exact age of rocks in the area: 23.8 million years. Those who love art and architecture visit the historic centres of medieval hamlets and towns, where Romanesque churches, the Renaissance palaces and villas look onto the visitors wandering the streets. The Madonna della Guardia sanctuary overlooks a wonderful and unique view and the Art Gallery of the Capuchin Friars enriches the small town of Voltaggio. However, there’s even more to this land that is so close to Milan and full of surprises. It does not offer only art and nature and excellent food and wine, but also unforgettable sport experiences, fashion and luxury. There are three golf courses in a relatively small area, among those the Colline del Gavi Golf Club in Tassarolo. The Fashion Outlet in Serravalle Scrivia is the most important shopping mall of continental Europe and more than 4 million people do visit it every year. There are more and more tourist resorts in the area, and their quality is improving, and can offer very simple and pleasant countryside accommodation, but also top luxury accommodation. “Gavishire” is the name by which this area is now called by some and this gives you an idea of how charming and enchanting this land is.
Vineyards, wine, the Gavi area In the words of our writers and poets Instead, I crossed the Belbo on the boardwalk, and as I wandered, I kept thinking there’s nothing more beautiful than a well-hoed, well-tended vineyard, with proper leaves and that smell of the earth baked by the August sun. A well-tended vineyard is like a healthy body, a living body that breathes and sweats. Vineyards that climb up the hills until they are etched against the sky are a well-known landscape, and yet the simple and deep rows of vines do look like a magical gate. Under the vines the red earth has been turned over, leaves are hiding treasures and beyond them, there’s the sky. This is what vineyards are made of, they are honey for your soul, and on the horizon there’s something creating plausible views full of nostalgia and hope. Cesare Pavese (1908 – 1950) ‘La Luna e i Falò’ , Einaudi 1980
A green, sweet and relaxing crossroad: this is my way of life — I am a man of the plain — the Gavi hills: a crossroad of cultures, landscapes and environments. A fertile bulwark separating — and at the same time uniting — the sea and the plain. And its earth: sometimes it’s white, and some other times it’s red, and they form a motley and complex mosaic that is poured by expert hands in the glasses of those curious people wishing to meet the main actor of all of this: the Cortese wine. Mario Soldati (1906-1999) Il vino è la poesia della terra
The Gavi wine seduced me from the very first glass: a light, dry wine, and a very special taste. You became aware of that light almond taste after you had drank it, when that nectar had already flown inside. I was even more enchanted by its transparency, that miraculous water. I was thrilled and I already felt it was like a brother. I drank that Cortese wine and drank it again, in the summer especially, when images are more intense. One day I promised myself that if I ever were invited to a wine event, I would put the Cortese Gavi white wine at the top of the list among all the dry white wines. Mario Tobino (1910 – 1991) Excerpt Il Mondo – Milano, February 25TH, 1972
I’m always fearful and anxious every time I approach this wine; and every time I’m moved and happy: it’s straw-coloured, clear and shiny, green flashes of light dance in it; its delicate, yet constant and trusted aroma and its indescribable delicacy; its dry taste without concessions or harshness, and you can taste - crisp and sharp - the pierre à fusil and its sincere and elegant energy and potential. Luigi Veronelli (1926-2004) - “Ieri e oggi di Gavi” The only edition by Pro Loco di Gavi - May 1975
I can tell it’s the Gavi white wine even if blindfolded, since the desire for it is engraved deep into my soul. A landscape packed with tiny hills, short and intimate valleys, where seasons can still be recognized by those smells blown in by a gust of wind, just like good news, it’s like a hesitant creek that changes its direction every 100 metres, and adds a decoration to the top of the slopes. The new buildings do not change the old position of the hamlet and -—since they are located along the main road — seem ready to leave. The ancient walls and monuments look like uncompromising guardians, and the water of the Neirone creek is flowing restlessly until it pours into the Lemme creek, the meditative people... Giuseppe Marotta (1902- 1963)
GLIMPSES OF GAVI Both of them were experiencing an unexpected peaceful feeling and a new subtle delight — alternating proximity and distance — in that land, that hilly countryside
«You didn’t even want to come here, remember?», she said while pressing her lips against the cold glass. She smiled, she had recognized the aroma of white fruits. It was at sunset, and the terrace was flooded with pinkish light. «Do you want me to tell you, you were right? Fine. I didn’t think that a mini break in the Gavi land was a good alternative. Now we are here, and we are enjoying ourselves», Luca said and touched her arm lightly. «What are we doing tomorrow?». While talking, Luca was watching the well-tended vineyards intensely, they stretched below him as far as the eye can see. He placed the glass on the table and looked at the Fort that overlooked the landscape as if it were a friendly guardian. Nicola, his nephew, would be thrilled by the sight of the Fort and Luca would tell him spooky and scary ghost stories, tales about soldiers and princesses to be rescued. «The kids will be here tomorrow. Nicola is playing golf with you, you will let him try your brand new golf equipment. Marina and I will go to the Serravalle shopping mall, it’ll be a way of spending some time together at last». Both of them were experiencing an unexpected peaceful feeling and a new subtle delight — alternating proximity and distance — in that land, that hilly countryside. That night, everyone would meet at the restaurant on the main square of Gavi, when tired children and friends would be there for dinner. And at the restaurant, there would be toasts with wine glasses full of the golden Cortese white wine and risottos flavoured with the dark and dense wine sauce; ravioli pasta filled with borages served according to the ancient “a culo nudo” recipe would be gobbled down; and there would also be the focaccia and fried acacia flowers. So the evening would come to an end by enjoying the local Amaretti biscuits that smell of almonds and honey. Everyone would be satisfied and feel just a touch of melancholy that characterizes evenings like this, that need to be remembered by noting them down in your Moleskine diary. Roberta Schira ‘Storie del Gavi’
Publishing project Francesco Moneta | The Round Table
Graphic project Simona L. Vitali | Plug In
Bibliography Luigi Pagliantini
Thanks to Philippe Daverio, Roberta Schira
Edited by The Round Table press office Veronique Enderlin Selvaggia Stefanelli
Written by CONSORZIO TUTELA DEL GAVI
Coordination Simonetta Borasi
With the support of FEASR Fondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: L’Europa investe nelle zone rurali
Programma di Sviluppo Rurale 2007-2013 Mis.133