The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 42 Autumn 2022

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM AUTUMN 2022

ISSUE 42

ISSN 2052-059X

The Storytellers…

In praise of the people who bring the brands and bars to life in our imaginations PAGE 26

Message in a Bottle…

Unravelling the compelling tales behind five distinct drinks labels PAGE 40

The Boomerang Book…

The tome that’s destined to become an important part of cocktail history PAGE 54

Are you sitting comfortably? It’s the

STORY TELLING ISSUE

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WELCOME

hello cocktail lover!

I didn’t always write about drinks. Back in the day, I covered a range of subjects – all lifestyle – from theatre, food, and fashion to travel and beauty, plus the occasional real-life story in between.

Then cocktails happened. And it was a revelation. All credit to Gary for introducing me to them – he’d long been seduced by the glamour of Thirties’ films such as The Thin Man and classic TV series like The Avengers and, as a former ad man, had carved out a role for his alter ego, which revolved around sipping Martinis in fancy hotel bars.

Me? Sure I loved the glamour, who doesn’t? In truth though, I was first drawn to the stories. That was the reason I went into this writing malarkey in the first place: To hear and retell stories and, believe me, bartenders are natural born story tellers.

Over the years I’ve witnessed this innate skill manifest in numerous ways, from creative and downright funny Instagram reels through to Oscar-winning performances in cocktail comps. Then there are the stories they share in their always imaginative menus and cocktails. The gift of captivating communication extends to other areas of the drinks space, from the bar and brand owners to the brand ambassadors and marketeers. Fresh, fabulous and downright inspiring stories are everywhere. This issue shines a light on just a few of them. I hope you enjoy the read.

MS S

I’ve always loved stories. As an eight-year-old I adored the melodious tones of Miss Jones, my Welsh school teacher, as she held a class of 20 children spellbound and silent as she brought to life the worlds of The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe, Stig of the Dump, or Treasure Island.

A little older, I discovered even more worlds: The imagined futures of H.G. Wells; the political warnings of George Orwell; the satires of Evelyn Waugh; the historical imaginings of Peter Ackroyd; and the daft, divine escapism of P.G. Wodehouse.

Around this time I also discovered cocktail stories. In fact, so fascinating were the stories behind the drinks, they were amongst the reasons I fell in love with these alluring libations. While the cocktails were invariably wonderful in themselves, I found myself increasing seduced by their stories.

Historical, apocryphal, or myth; constant or changing; from around the world or around the corner, the stories made sipping the drinks more pleasurable, profound, and life-affirming.

So, it is with immense pleasure that we invite you, dear reader, to mix your favourite cocktail, sit in your most comfortable chair, and read some of our favourite stories of people, places, bars, brands and very much more. Let’s begin…

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Capreolus Distillery produces sublime Eau-de-Vie in the UK

contents 08 16

Amuse bouche

News, views, reviews, and howtos, including six questions for Monica Berg, winning ways with fig leaves, and the best cocktails for autumn/winter star signs

11 reasons to be a cocktail lover right now

Message in a bottle

40

The legends behind the labels: Revealing the inspiring tales of five very different spirits

50 Autumn beauties

Tasty tipples to toast the new season

Being eau-so fabulous, picking up the pieces, bringing sexy back, and more

20 The Perfect Ten Our selection of the best drinks books for your stage of the cocktail journey

24

In the hotseat

Why stories matter, with Alison Esse, co-founder of The Storytellers – the leading culture-change consultancy

26

The storytellers

32

A real page-turner

Writers and PRs; image makers and brand builders: The people who care and share their drinks intel

Yolanda Evans on the joys of collectible cocktail menus that take inspiration from books and magazines

54

The boomerang book

56

The cocktail girl & guy

58

Liquid intelligence

59

Take 3 ingredients

History in the Making: The story behind The Bartenders’ Travelling Book

She gets seduced by the glamorous night-time feels at the revamped Beaufort Bar at The Savoy and he feels instantly at home at Seed Library

Zoe Burgess shares tips on how to write about cocktails

With Daniel and Joe Schofield from Schofield’s Bar, Atomeca, and Sterling Bar

60 Mains & Martinis

38

Cock and bull stories

Jared Brown & Anistatia Miller are drinks historians who expose the truth behind cocktail cover-ups

Savouring the taste sensations at Sager + Wilde and Sessions Arts Club in London, and Miss River in New Orleans

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Issue 42 Autumn 2022 Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Creative director Scott Bentley - Bentley Creative Copy editing London Editorial Co. Cover photography Jamie Lau Contributors Jared Brown & Anistatia Miller, Zoe Burgess, Yolanda Evans, Phil Huckle, Millie Milliken Thanks to Katia Hadidian, Gerry's Wines & Spirits, June Montana, Lauryn Tomlinson

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact:

(+44) 020 7242 2546 mail@thecocktaillovers.com

46 Origin stories

A tale as old as time… Millie Milliken on the seven story archetypes and the brands that tell them best

62

66

A sip of New Orleans

Parting shot

Cocktails get the Old Master treatment in a new book pairing drinks with their painted portraits

Phil Huckle champions the classics invented in the cradle of the American cocktail, New Orleans

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Find us:

TheCocktailLovers.com @cocktaillovers meet.thecocktaillovers @thecocktaillovers

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information.

The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is printed in the UK by Stephens & George.

The Cocktail Lovers ISSN 2052-059X © 2022. Published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. London, UK

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

CONTRIBUTORS

YOLANDA EVANS

PHILIP HUCKLE

MILLIE MILLIKEN

ANISTATIA MILLER & JARED BROWN

Yolanda is a freelance writer with a specialism in the restaurant and bars sector as well as travel and lifestyle.

Her work has appeared in The Washington Post; Afar; Here Magazine; Food & Wine; Imbibe; Vinepair; Zora; Punch; Travel + Leisure; Food 52; Wine Enthusiast; Lonely Planet; Thrillist; Eater LA; and Architectural Digest.

Phil worked as a cocktail bartender in Austin and New Orleans before returning to London to help manage the famous (infamous?) AKA Bar. From 2007 to 2020 he was the UK Scotch Whisky Brand Ambassador for Pernod Ricard. He now has a multipurpose role in London working for the whisky company, Cask Trade.

Millie is an award-winning drinks journalist and head of content at OurWhisky Foundation and community manager for The Drinks Trust charity’s member platform, the Drinks Community. Her freelance writing appears in publications such as The Telegraph; Decanter; VinePair; The Spirits Business; Club Oenologique, and more.

Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown are the directors of Mixellany Limited®, a consultancy and publisher that specialises in everything to do with spirits and mixed drinks. During their 30-year collaboration, they have written more than 30 books, including their masterwork, the two-volume Spiritous Journey: A History of Drink.

Favourite cocktail book?

“The World’s Drinks and How To Mix Them, by William Boothby (1934 edition). I found the Yolanda Cocktail in it and ask bars around the world to make it for me.”

Favourite cocktail book?

“The Craft of the Cocktail, by Dale Degroff (2002) had a big influence on me – not just for the recipes but also the great storytelling and anecdotes from a life behind the bar.”

Favourite cocktail book?

“Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails, by Ted Haigh (2009). I’m fascinated by forgotten things, so this homage to forgotten drinks makes my soul happy.”

Favourite cocktail book?

“We’re both huge fans of New and Improved Bartender’s Manual: Or how to mix drinks of the present style, by Harry Johnson (1900 edition). We highly recommend it.”

A real page-turner: page 32

A sip of New Orleans: page 62

Origin stories: page 46

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Cock and bull stories: page 38

APERItiVO Opening up the palate for the spirited stories ahead…

PAG E 8

PAG E 9

PAG E 1 3

PAG E 1 2

THINKING DRINKERS

BRUM, BRUM!

CREATE A STIR

6 QUESTIONS FOR MONICA BERG

Ben McFarland and Tom Sandham share the stories behind drinks in their hilarious stand-up shows

The astrologer’s guide to mixing up the perfect cocktails for the Autumn/ Winter star signs

Birmingham calling: Three new bars from three of the major players in the Midlands – all opening this Autumn

On the importance of books, storytelling and her role at the Campari Academy

PAG E 1 4

PUTTING A RING ON IT…

Nightjar Carnaby team up with jewellery designer Bear Brooksbank for a sparkling limited-edition collection

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NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS, INTERVIEWS & HOW-TOS

The PEOPLE Thinking Drinkers

Individually, Ben McFarland and Tom Sandham are two of the UK’s finest drinks writers; together they are the Thinking Drinkers. Often described as the pioneers of alcohol-based comedy, they share their razor-sharp observations and knowledge of the drinks industry in rip-roaringly funny and incredibly informative stand-up shows. Your mission? To keep a straight face as they take to the stage for their new UK tour, The Thinking Drinkers Pub Quiz, which runs from October 2022-March 2023.

Visit thinkingdrinkers.com.

For more people who share tales about drinks, turn to page 26.

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APERITIVO

THE NEXT BIG THING

Bar carts are soooo lockdown. These days the best-dressed homes are sporting bar trunks.

Get yours now! luxdeco.com

BRUM, BRUM! BIRMINGHAM CALLING Three very different, much-anticipated bars opening this Autumn

AFFORDABLE LUXURY

CREATIVE EXPRESSION

Notable Nibbles

HIGH-ENERGY

Passing Fancies

Atelier Robert Wood

The Cocktail Club

You know that fun, frisson and special camaraderie you only get when you hang out in the kitchen at house parties? That’s the feel they’re going for at Passing Fancies. Located in the former Bird’s Custard Factory in Digbeth, this 54-seater space is the latest from Tommy Matthews, Matt Arnold and Eve Green – all renowned for big-time fun, conviviality and crowd-pleasing cocktails. passingfancies.com

More than a bartender/owner, Robert Wood is an artist who brings his many ideas to life through drinks. Think of Atelier as his new playground.

Part workshop, part cocktail bar, the new space is housed in a restored factory in Birmingham’s famous Jewellery Quarter, where the team will showcase a limited-edition cocktail menu for a limited run to a limited number of guests. atelierbyrobertwood.com

This is big. Huge. We’re talking two floors, three rooms and a no-messing-around 450 capacity. The team may have dropped ‘London’ from their brand, but the signature antics, are still here: cocktails served at speed, swinging lights, bartenders jumping on the bar top and Happy Hour until 8pm every night. Unashamedly high energy, this ain't for you if you’re after a low-key affair. thecocktailclub.com

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CARTWRIGHT & BUTLER ROQUEFORT CHEESE MELTS

’Scuse us, our mouths are full! We can’t stop eating these cheesy bites of deliciousness. As fab as they are on their own, they’re even better paired with a Martini (or any drink for that matter). Our verdict? Roquefort Cheese Melts for the win. cartwrightandbutler.co.uk

APERITIVO

FIVE WAYS WITH

fig leaves Taste it Try the Fig Leaf

Colada on the menu at Christina’s at the Mondrian Shoreditch, London EC2.

Infuse it FIG GIN Ingredients:

300ml water 11 washed fig leaves 200g caster sugar (plus 100g) 750ml London Dry gin Zest of an orange (optional) Method 1. Bring a large pot of water

to the boil, then add the fig leaves and 200g of sugar.

2. Simmer for 20 minutes with the lid on, then remove the leaves and drain the liquid to remove any sediment.

3. Pour the gin into a sterilised Kilner jar. Once the fig mixture has cooled, add to the gin with the orange zest, if using.

4. Set aside somewhere dark for one month, then remove the zest and taste the gin. Add extra sugar if desired.

5. Bottle and enjoy with tonic or neat.

BREW IT FIG TEA

Bring a small steel pot of water to the boil and drop in 3-5 fresh fig leaves. Allow the pot to boil for 15 minutes et voilà, Fig Leaf Tea.

Blend it FIG WINE Ingredients:

Sweeten it

10 washed fig leaves 1 bottle dry white wine 160g caster sugar 1 good measure of vodka

FIG SYRUP Ingredients:

Method 1. Crumple the fig leaves and

3-4 washed fig leaves 2 cups water 1½ cup sugar

place them in a large clean jar with the white wine, sugar, and vodka.

2. Stir or shake well, secure the lid and leave to infuse for three to five days.

3. Strain the mixture, discard the leaves and pour the liquid into a bottle with a tight lid.

4. Serve over ice.

Method 1. Put the water, sugar, and fig leaves in a

medium saucepan over medium-high heat.

2. Stir until the sugar dissolves and boil for

2-3 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat, allow the mixture

to cool, then steep for about an hour.

4. When cool, remove the leaves and pour

the syrup into a sealed bottle or container.

5. Store in the fridge. The syrup will last for up to two weeks. Use in a Daiquiri.

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APERITIVO

SIX QUESTIONS for…

MONICA BERG

Campari Academy’s Creative Director on her love of learning

No 1 in Drinks International’s Bar World 100, Monica co-owns Tayēr + Elementary with Alex Kratena – voted Best International Cocktail Bar at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards and N02 on The World’s 50 Best Bars

and documentary producer. She made the award-winning BBC documentary, My Stolen Childhood; Understanding the Trokosi System, and one reason it’s so powerful is because she was in control of her personal narrative.

ONE

TWO

How important is storytelling in your work?

It’s important for me to give people with a story to tell the opportunity to control their narrative and express their voice.

These very important details make such a big difference to understanding the complexities of individual experiences.

I had the privilege to meet Brigitte Sossou Perenyi, a wonderful storyteller

You adore books – what’s new to your library and why?

Kiyosi Seike's The Art of Japanese Joinery. I love wood and woodwork, and I’m especially interested in Japanese carpentry, as it’s such a beautiful craft.

THREE

Why has Campari Academy founded a Book Club?

The Book Club is the brainchild of Campari’s Jessamine McLellan and Anne-Louise Marquis. It’s a wonderful initiative to get bartenders to read more books, and we will soon have something similar on CampariAcademy.com.

FOUR

Campari Academy events include books as giveaways for guests – how do you choose them?

Knowledge is the most beautiful gift – it only grows the more it’s shared. It’s important to me that bartenders are given the tools to achieve what they want. A book is about the knowledge you take from the pages, and what you create with that. The books I choose for the Academy have all influenced me over the years, and hold a lot of value to me.

FIVE

Which book have you learned the most from?

The dictionary, as I use it every day – although it’s the online version now.

Despite learning English from a very young age, when I moved to London from Oslo it took me years to find my “English speaking self” and to express myself the way I wanted to. I realised that even if the delivery is not perfect, the idea can still be really good. That’s why it’s important not to underestimate someone based on their verbal skills, but to understand what they are trying to communicate.

SIX

Which books do you recommend to pro and home bartenders?

Danny Meyer’s Setting the Table for professionals; Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s Bar Book for home, and Dave Arnold’s Liquid Intelligence if you’re advanced.

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The PLACE

The Sazerac House If you’re a cocktail-loving history buff, The Sazerac House should definitely be on your radar. Yes, it’s in New Orleans, and yes, it celebrates all things about the history of the mighty Sazerac, but as ‘Nawlin’s’ is the birthplace of many a classic cocktail – including the Brandy Crusta, Ramos Gin Fizz and Brandy Milk Punch – there’s plenty of stories about them as well.

Visit sazerachouse.com.

For more on the cocktails of New Orleans, see page 62.

CREATE A STIR! 23 SEPT-22 OCT

Libra

The astrologer’s guide to Autumn/Winter signs’ favourite tipple

23 OCT-21 NOV

22 NOV-21 DEC

Scorpio

Sagittarius

A perfect recipe for the natural diplomat of the zodiac.

Puts some zing in the sting of lusty Scorpions pursuing their prey.

Something spicy to bring the heat that Saggies need in their relationships.

The Diplomat

The Ginger Snap

The Apple Pie

Method: Shake the first five ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker. Strain into a Coupe glass and top with ginger beer.

Method: Combine the whisky and vodka directly in a Highball glass.

Gently heat the apple juice in a heavybottomed saucepan until warmed through and pour over the alcohol.

Garnish with sliced apple.

120ml dry vermouth 120ml sweet vermouth Dash Maraschino Twist of orange peel, to garnish Method: Shake ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker. Strain into a chilled Martini glass and garnish with a twist of orange.

30ml Scotch 15ml gin Dash Angostura bitters 15ml ginger liqueur 15ml lemon juice Ginger beer, to top

60ml Fireball whisky 60ml vanilla vodka 120ml cloudy apple juice Sliced dried apple, to serve

From Cosmic Cocktails – A Guide to the Mixology of Astrology by Lydia Levine (Summersdale, £7.99), out 22 October 2022.

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THINGS WE LOVE

HOW’S THIS FOR AWESOME?

London-based jewellery designer Bear Brooksbank has teamed up with the team at Nightjar Carnaby to create three stunning rings inspired by a select range of colourful cocktails on the list. nightjarcarnaby.com

The BOTTLE

Audemus Pink Pepper Gin Every bottle worth its place on the back bar or drinks-shop shelf has a story to tell – but there’s only one we know of whose packaging turns into an actual book.

Behold Audemus Spirits’ Pink Pepper Gin and its super-cool, origami-inspired gift box. Beautifully designed and exquisitely constructed, the inner box flattens out and with a flick of the wrist and a few deft folds, it re-fashions into a six-page cocktail-recipe booklet. How ingenious is that?

For more messages in (and out of) bottles, see our photo story on page 40.

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DID YOU KNOW? The Martini glass only got its name in the 1990s when Martini-style cocktails became all the rage. Prior to that, it was simply called a cocktail glass.

From ‘50 Surprising & Delightful Gin Facts’ on The Sipsmith Blog. sipsmith.com

APERITIVO WHERE THEY’RE DRINKING IN…

Paris

S E LECT E D BY FO R EST COL LI NS, @ 5 2 M A RT IN I S

Five fantastic bars to put your palate through its paces

LITTLE RED DOOR

DANICO

A firm favourite on the Paris bar scene and, at the time of writing, number 29 on the current World’s 50 Best Bars list, LRD is renowned for its good vibes, forwardthinking cocktail menus and always perfectly executed drinks. Its team has explored everything from philosophy to art over the years, but recently, it has made a huge impact with ‘Farm-to-Glass’ menus, working with local farmers and single ‘hero’ ingredients such as tomatoes, olives and carrot in the repertoire to put the producers firmly in focus. lrdparis.com

It’s style all the way at Julien Ross and Nico de Soto’s Danico – from its location (opposite the former atelier of designer JeanPaul Gaultier) to the striking decor and gorgeous guests. It’s more than looks though: there are a dozen cocktails on the seasonally-changing menu and in true Nico de Soto fashion, each is stunning in conception and execution. daroco.fr

FRÉQUENCE

COMBAT

Founded by friends Matthieu Biron and Guillaume Quenza, Fréquence is inspired by the record bars found in Japan. So, on the back bar – where the bottles should be – there’s a 1,000-strong vinyl collection, and instead of mixing drinks, the bartender might mix the soundtrack for the evening.

That’s not to say that drinks don’t feature – they do, as prominently as the tunes which, as you might expect, are always on point. @frequenceparis

Apart from the flowers hanging from the ceiling, Combat was never designed to be a showy space – as the clinical white tiles, wooden seats and sombre grey exterior attest. Then, Bam! Just as you get used to the starkness, your eyes are confronted by bright mustard tiles behind the open-plan stainless-steel counter, where bar manager Elise Drouet and owners Elena Schmitt and Margot Lecarpentier tend to your drinks. Expect plenty of inventive creations, clever riffs on classics and genius ways with seasonal ingredients. @combat.belleville

COPPERBAY With its turquoise and navy-blue tones, brass accents and rope detailing, there’s more than a touch of the life aquatic at CopperBay. And if the visual cues aren’t enough to transport you to the ocean, then the tagline ‘Mermaid and Magic Potions’ probably will. The menu presents classic favourites such as Sours, Mules, Highballs, and Coladas, and for the French side of things there’s a stunning selection of Pastis, natural wines, artisanal beers and seasonal signature drinks. copperbay.fr

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ONE eleven alluring reasons

Pimping our toast Champagne, Gin & Tonic, Pink Grapefruit Rosso Vermouth, Espresso Martini and Negroni – just a few of the inventive and delicious marmalades concocted by the award-winning team at The Artisan Kitchen to make your breakfast pop. theartisankitchen.co.uk

…to be a cocktail lover right now

2

Sharing the (elevated) RTD cocktail love Whitebox Drinks makes cans for serious cocktail lovers. Fact. The latest addition to the portfolio?

Squeezy’s Margarita. It’s got the sharp, sweet, and right-side-ofsaltiness ratio spot-on. whiteboxcocktails.com

THREE Being eau-so fabulous Do we really need a designer water bottle? Probably not. Do we want one? You bet we do! fendi.com

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APERITIVO

FOUR Raising our glassware game We’re taking textile designer William Morris’s “Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful” mantra to heart and replacing our bog-standard glassware with these. #becausewereworthit henryhollandstudio.com

Honing our hosting skills Cocktail parties are back. Big time. For all the tips, tricks, food and cocktail recipes you need, read Bar Menu: 100+ Drinking Food Recipes for Cocktail Hours at Home by André Darlington.

It does exactly what it says on the tin. Available from 10th November. runningpress.com

PICKING UP THE PIECES

Now this is our kinda puzzle.

Beautifully hand-illustrated and inspiring, the 1,000 pieces come together to reveal the five Scotch whisky regions and their distinct characteristics. And – get this – a tree is planted and donation made for every item sold. waterandwines.com

Puckering up Ladies, looking for the perfect shade of red?

We’ve found it for you and it’s called Cocktail Hour. Gorgeous or what? shiseido.com 17 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 42

APERITIVO

TEN Drinking in style Have you heard? Gucci has teamed up with Giorgio Bargiani, the fab Italian Assistant Director of Mixology at the World’s Best Bar, The Connaught, in London. The result? Elisir d’Elicrisco – a bespoke bottled cocktail reminiscent of walks in lush Tuscan gardens. gucciosteria.com

BRINGING SEXY BACK

The sultry Beaufort Bar at The Savoy, London has reopened – revamped and ready for your cocktail-loving pleasure.

Insert happy dancing emoji here. thesavoylondon.com

NINE Sipping pretty

We love Black Lines for working with emerging artists on its labels and limitededition prints.

Support the arts with each sip! blacklinesdrinks.com

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Warming to winter

Cool Story vessels are the business at keeping wine cold for 24 hours, but with winter knocking on the door, we’re zoning in on the fact that they keep warm drinks just-so for 12 hours.

Hello winter walks and Bonfire Night parties... coolstoryco.com

T SC LL UPGA R HTE N RER

This photo: A view from one of the Monozukuri masterclasses. Right and below: James Bowker, House of Suntory Global Brand Ambassador

MASTER MINDS

Japan’s House of Suntory is passing on the torch to a new generation, offering professionals in the hospitality sector the opportunity to learn about the nation’s culture and philosophy which underpins the House of Suntory’s DNA

T

o appreciate the House of Suntory DOJO programme, we need to understand the Japanese word, ‘dojo’. Its translation is ‘the place of the way’ – a place of awakening, where people refine and master a skill.

Traditionally used to describe the training spaces used for Japanese disciplines such as martial arts and meditation, it’s a word synonymous with inspiration, development and elevated learning. All of which perfectly describe the House of Suntory DOJO. Launched in 2020, this exclusive mentorship and development programme for professional bartenders is the brainchild of the House of Suntory’s Global Brand Ambassador, James Bowker.

“It’s about giving these incredible professionals in our industry the opportunity to be authentically immersed in a culture that so many of us draw such great inspiration from,” he says. “It’s a chance to learn from the masters in Japan, but also to learn more broadly about Japanese culture and how these philosophies, ways of viewing life, work and creativity can inspire new ways of thinking about hospitality and bartending more generally.”

SUNTORY DOJO 2022

The DOJO programme comprises a carefully composed series of Monozukuri masterclasses, each adhering to the three

pillars that uphold everything the House of Suntory represents. “Those pillars are Wa, which means in harmony with Nature; Omotenashi, the traditional sense of Japanese hospitality and culture; and Monozukuri – the traditional Japanese approach to refining craftsmanship”, UK Brand Ambassador for the House of Suntory, Raffaele Di Monaco explains.

Application is based on referral and invitation however, interested parties can register interest on the website.

Discussing the focus of each Monozukuri masterclass, James describes the Ikebana and Aesthetics session as, “spotlighting the art of flower arranging and how

things look from a beauty perspective”; Sushi and Seasoning, “to inform the way we season our cocktails”; Chado and Hospitality, “by way of a traditional tea ceremony and how it informs the way we approach hospitality”; and Kaiseki and Psychology, “A new strand that we introduced which explores the psychology of flavour and the guest experience.”

EDUCATION FIRST

“First and foremost, DOJO is an education programme but for those who want it, we’ve included a competition element,” James informs.

“It encompasses the kaizen principle of continuous improvement, in this case, a classic cocktail that is refined whilst still retaining its DNA. We’re not asking the 12 finalists to create something new, the task is to elevate a classic drink – if the judges can’t identify it from tasting it blind, that means something is wrong,” James says.

“We’ve got some amazing judges lined up, including my mentor Ueno-san from Bar High Five in Tokyo,” he continues.

“We’ll be awarding several small prizes for various challenges throughout the day and the two overall winners will secure a trip to Tokyo to experience Japanese hospitality first hand.”

The House of Suntory DOJO Finals take place in London in November. For further details, see suntory.dojo.com.

A WORD FROM A MASTER “The point of view we discuss at Suntory DOJO is driven by the possibility of communicating through the senses. If we pay attention to the details and keep an open and accepting mind, our senses become useful tools we can use to create lasting impact and build a language we can use to communicate the invisible.”

Zoe Burgess, on leading the DOJO workshop, Kaiseki and Psychology

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the Perfect ten

10 books to make you want to reach for your shaker

1

1. The scholarly one

The Oxford Companion to Spirits & Cocktails David Wondrich with Noah Rothbaum Forget Google – for everything you ever wanted to know about the origins, meanings and processes of drinks, plus the facts and stats on the people and places behind them, this bad boy is your go-to. Ten years in the collating and every day behind it is evident.

2

2. The essential one

Difford’s Guide To Cocktails – 16th Edition If you only have room for one cocktail recipe book on your shelves, this one gets our vote. It contains 3,000 recipes, classic and modern, plus all of the tips you need to get you making drinks like a pro.

3

3. The convivial one

4

Good Things to Drink, With Mr Lyan & Friends Ryan Chetiywardana There’s something so joyous about this book; it’s a true celebration of what cocktails are about – beautiful drinks shared with friends – and there’s something here for every occasion.

4. The classic one

The Savoy Cocktail Book Harry Craddock Whether you buy it for the recipes, to admire the fabulous illustrations, or as a reference to the style and glamour of cocktails in 1920s and 1930s London, TSCB is a must-have on any shelf.

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APERITIVO 5. The non-alc one

How To Drink Without Drinking: Celebratory alcoholfree drinks for any time of day Fiona Beckett Forget the child-like cover and head straight to the recipes, which include everything from exciting zero-alcohol cocktails and flavoured cordials to alcohol-free wine, beer and cider-based drinks.

6. The professional one

5

Meehan’s Bartender Manual Jim Meehan This award-winning book covers everything the professional bartender or bar owner needs to know about running a successful bar. End of.

7. The aspirational one

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The Art of The Japanese Cocktail Masahiro Urushido and Michael Anstendig Part memoir, part cocktail porn, Urushido and Anstendig have created a stunning book that showcases Japanese culture ‘inna New York stylee’. This one sits as comfortably on your coffee table as it does on your kitchen shelf.

7

THREE NEW BOOKS FOR THE HOME BARTENDER

8

8. The no-nonsense one

60-second Cocktails: Amazing drinks to make at home in a minute Joel Harrison & Neil Ridley We haven’t put it to the test yet, but we love the idea and the easy-to-follow layout.

Each recipe is coded by taste profile and occasion (such as Spicy & Dry or EasyGoing/Everyday), with helpful diagrams of tools required and no-faffing-around instructions. Sixty seconds or not, it gets a big thumbs-up from us.

9

10

9. The clever one

The Cocktail Edit: Everything you need to know about how to make all the drinks that matter Alice Lascelles The title makes a big claim, but it’s one that Alice Lascelles delivers on by showing how, once you’ve nailed the DNA of a dozen classic cocktail recipes, you have the backbone to a world of drinks. It’s divided into 12 chapters – the first has 12 classics and six twists; the rest feature 100 recipes.

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10. The science-y one

The Cocktail Cabinet: The art, science and pleasure of mixing the perfect drink Zoe Burgess For the more serious home bartender and professionals alike, this is required reading.

Covering everything from understanding flavour and the principles of cocktail structure to illustrations showing the ratios and compositions of each drink, it’s a lesson in mastering the craft of cocktails.

Find out more on p. 58.

WHY RYE?

Add it to the magic ingredients of expertise and innovation for WhistlePig distillery’s perfect whiskey recipe

R

ye was the original American whiskey and the base for many original classic cocktails. But then it fell victim to the dark days of Prohibition. And even after that sorry time ended it was almost forgotten. Come 2007 a group of rye lovers set out on a mission – to restore this whiskey to its rightful place.

LOOK BACK TO MOVE FORWARD “Respect tradition, embrace progress.” That’s what they say at the WhistlePig distillery in Shoreham, Vermont. Learning the lessons of the past, but pushing onwards to unlock the huge potential of rye whiskey, always innovating to make it even better.

In the same spirit a brief glance back is a good place to start the WhistlePig story.

RYE’S WHEN AND WHY Back in the 1860s, when the legendary bartender Jerry Thomas was mixing the cocktails he captured in his book, The Bartenders Guide, if he referenced whiskey in a recipe, like the Whiskey Cocktail (the forerunner to the Old Fashioned) he was almost certainly using rye.

Then came Prohibition and rye whiskey, along with much else associated with cocktails, spirits and good times, was lost in the United States. But production continued to flourish in Canada, so much so that come the end of Prohibition in the USA, alternatives were looked for and bourbon became the prevalent whiskey. Rye was forgotten and unloved. So what were discerning drinkers actually missing out on?

A BIG PERSONALITY Rye whiskey is unique. Not simply because of its history but

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its character. Big, bold and uncompromising.

It has a peppery, spicy bite.

And it can be, well, more powerful. Leaning towards the savoury side, its flavour is in stark contrast to corn-based liquors such as bourbon, which is sweeter. Rather like the difference between rye bread and other loaves.

Fortunately, one small, dedicated group of rye whiskey connoisseurs saw its potential and knew it could exceed the whiskey world's expectations. It was this belief that led to them founding WhistlePig to write the future of rye.

2007: THE DISTILLER AND THE DISCOVERY The WhistlePig story began to take shape some 15 years ago.

Having purchased an old dairy farm in 2007, the team set out to craft the world’s finest and

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Left: A classic Old Fashioned, made with rye whiskey. Below: The WhistlePig distillery is housed in a traditional Vermont red barn

MAPLE OLD FASHIONED Ingredients: 37.5ml WhistlePig 10yo Small Batch 5ml WhistlePig Barrel Aged Maple Syrup 3 dashes maple bitters Orange peel to garnish most interesting rye whiskeys.

Importantly, they brought in the late, legendary Master Distiller, Dave Pickerell. As well as his exceptional knowledge and experience, he had something else to bring to the project.

He had discovered an incredible stock of 10-year-old blending whiskey in Canada. This was brought to the team’s Vermont home where it was carefully blended and finished.

With that, the adventure began.

But a still more significant date was to come.

2015: THE BIG PICTURE AND A BIG COMMITMENT Although initially working with those Canadian rye whiskies to begin production, the team always had its eye on a much bigger picture. And this was realised when they converted

Method: Add all ingredients to an Old Fashioned glass filled with ice.

Stir and garnish with fresh orange peel.

and renovated a 150-year-old dairy barn in Vermont into the home of WhistlePig’s very own whiskey distillery.

In addition, they also made a big commitment: to grow, harvest, barrel and bottle their much-loved grain all on the same site. They would also rear animals and allocate 20 acres of land to grow maple trees to tap for syrup.

PRESENT AND FUTURE Fifteen years later, that original desire to restore rye whiskey to its rightful place has been realised and more besides: WhistlePig is now the world’s most awarded rye and the leading independent craft whiskey.

WhistlePig has an extraordinary range, including experimental releases and limited editions, as the team led by Head of Whiskey Development, Liz Rhoades and

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Whiskey Blender, Meghan Ireland, continue to innovate.

However, it’s the WhistlePig 10yo Small Batch Rye that brings the story neatly back to rye’s roots.

Created as a base for making the world’s best cocktails, it’s perfect for mixing those Jerry Thomas classics. But perhaps, more importantly, WhistlePig rye offers today’s bartenders an exceptional spirit with which to craft the cocktail creations of the future – which is another reason why it’s so deliciously important.

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY whistlepigwhiskey.com

U N S P LA S H - RO B S ON H ATS U K A M I M ORG A N

This page: Storytelling has been intrinsic to human civilisation since the dawn of time.

Top right: Alison Esse of The Storytellers

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ASK THE EXPERT

IN THE

H TSEAT

Checking in with Alison Esse, co-founder of The Storytellers, the culture-change consultancy that helps organisations find their voice and transform their business through storytelling

Let’s start with your story…

My whole career has been storytelling.

I started in PR, where I was telling stories to journalists, and left around 1990 to work with someone who produced smart exhibitions and fashion shows. After 9/11, the events industry really suffered, so we reinvented ourselves as storytellers.

Effectively, that’s what we were doing anyway – telling brand stories but bringing them to life through powerful events, and helping to transform businesses.

Why did you found The Storytellers?

When we launched the business from my kitchen table in 2003, we decided on an entirely new product: Nobody was using storytelling as a tool for leadership and engagement. We pioneered the first methodology to help leaders inspire their teams and align them with a common narrative and set of values, and then link it all together to create a cohesive, relatable, human story.

Why is a story essential?

Strategy is as dry as old boots, but get people involved in a story about that same strategy and it’s a different ballgame.

We’re interested in the truth of a business; its vision for the future, its strategy and values. It’s important to connect these elements so people are proud of the stories behind the business they work in.

How did you convince your first client to hire you to tell their story?

We are all natural storytellers whether we think we’re good at it or not – it’s how humans shape our understanding of the world. We’re tribal and use stories to influence or inform others. My team and I knew we had a clever idea but we didn’t have a methodology or a product; we had no office, track record or clients, but we had this brilliant idea no-one else was

doing. My job was to sell it. I went in with a gutsy proposition: How do you bring to life strategy, vision, values and change in a way their customers can understand? Ask any business leader that question and they’ll listen to you, because it’s their biggest challenge.

And who was your first client?

It was Boots. Since then we’ve worked with more than 200 clients all over the world – big, complex businesses that are crying out for a human story that people can connect to, feel inspired by, and understand the part they play in it.

Storytelling gives leaders a way to carry their people on a journey of change in a way they can’t with just facts and figures.

What do your clients learn from you?

They know they need to tell a good story and need someone to craft it. They also learn that if you don’t have an anchor for your story, everyone in the organisation will make up their own stories, creating inconsistencies across the organisation.

Having a story anchors people.

Are stories more important today?

When I started, storytelling belonged to the film and advertising industry. The problem was, they weren’t authentic – they were made up, like Mr Kipling. We were interested in the truth of the business, its vision for the future, its strategy, its values, and creating an emotional connection to them. Pride and purpose feature strongly in our stories.

Why are stories so integral to business?

Stories have always been important, but we weren’t necessarily conscious of them before. What has changed is the attitudes of customers and employees towards the authenticity of companies and brands.

Purpose-led businesses are much more

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accepted by society – people want to know your values, how you show up, where you stand on the environment. Storytelling is a way of authenticating your promise as a brand, and that’s key: You have to be authentic, or you’ll be found out.

How do you get to the heart of a story?

In companies, particularly large ones, it’s important to tell a story from a collective perspective – it’s not about one person.

We talk to every member of the board and to various departments for their feedback.

Sometimes we end up with 80 pages of conflicting stories that we relay back to them. That can be quite feisty, but it’s crucial that everyone is aligned so we have one consistent story that we distil to that one nugget. Then the work begins.

What’s your methodology?

We’ve devised a framework that’s essentially six chapters that follow the ‘Hero’s Journey’: A heroic but flawed character who has a struggle and ‘call to action’– an endeavour he must resolve.

What is the benefit of a good story?

Businesses see a huge shift in engagement, productivity, and employee advocacy once they’re aligned and in turn, there’s a commercial impact.

How can bars ‘live the story’?

Be conscious of your values and deliver your promise. Bars can do so much to create loyal customers and guests by offering great service, delivering brand values and internal values and living them in an authentic way. First ask yourself, ‘What do we stand for beyond making money?’ Then tell your story and do that through every touchpoint with your customer. That’s at the heart of all effective storytelling. thestorytellers.com

PEOPLE

THE

PEOPLE

&

CARE

WHO

SHARE GET

THE

STORIES

OUT THERE…

SHINING A LIGHT

STORY TELLERS ON

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TELLING STORIES

The writer/historian/ broadcaster David Wondrich David Wondrich gives a mighty good read. Dubbed ‘a living iPod of drink lore and recipes’ by the New York Times, whether he’s uncovering the truth behind a historical fact or extolling the delights of his favourite cocktail, his tone is informal, entertaining and engaging. But behind the chatty style and good humour there’s authority, which no doubt comes from his former occupation as an English professor. But the proud Brooklynite swapped Shakespeare for spirits and hasn’t looked back since.

“When I started writing about this stuff in 1999, my friends were asking me, ‘Why are you doing this?’

And I said, ‘Well, I want to be able to go into any bar in the country and get a good cocktail.’ And then I’d laugh and they’d laugh because that was never going to happen.

Back then, there were just a few little hipster revival bars.

Now every city in the US has at least one and sometimes as many as 50 or 100 bars making great cocktails.”

His audience back then were readers of Esquire (where he was assigned to rewrite a book and commissioned a regular column), “and anyone who read about cocktails on the internet. These days it’s as likely to be hoodie-wearing guys through to sophisticated ladies – the audience is very diverse. This cocktail thing has become semi-mainstream and a lot of people are paying attention.”

With that attention comes a thirst for the stories behind the people and products that Wondrich shares through his award-winning books, Imbibe!, Punch! and probably his most ambitious project to date, The Oxford Companion To Spirits & Cocktails (p. 20). He writes columns too, for the likes of The Daily Beast, Punch and Imbibe Magazine.

SELLING STORIES

The PRs Alexandra Chatwin and Alexandra Irving, LXPR With what seems like a gazillion brands and businesses all vying for attention and column inches, how do you cut through the noise to get your story heard? That’s where Alex Chatwin (left) and Alex Irving (right) come in. Since launching their agency, LXPR, in 2018, they’ve become the go-to for discerning bars and drinks brands.

Before we get to the how, let’s start with what PR is.

“It’s super varied,” Irving says, “however, at the crux of it is storytelling. It’s up to us to take our client’s stories – whether drinks brands, events or bars – and work out the best way to communicate that to the target audience.

This could be through working with journalists to place coverage, to coordinating the right brand partnerships and events that convey what the client is trying to do and say.”

Why hospitality? “A few reasons really,” Chatwin says.

“The fact we’re partial to a cocktail being one of them!” she laughs. “In all seriousness though, a large part of it is the people. Even though the drinks industry is spread across the world, there’s a strong sense of community and we feel really lucky to be able to work with so many amazing people.” Irving agrees. “It’s such an interesting space for collaboration, innovation and creativity.

There are so many great stories to tell – whether it’s an established brand with its own rich history, someone launching something completely new, or a bar team continuing to push boundaries and innovate with their cocktail menus. What happens in the food and drink space is always a reflection of wider cultural movements and it’s really interesting to see how historical influences still have an impact today. No matter who we work with they all will have a story of how they’ve got there and what has inspired them and being able to take that and communicate it to a wider audience is a real privilege.”

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PEOPLE

SHOOTING STORIES

The food & drinks photographer Lateef Okunnu, Peppercorn Media With 39.5K followers on the ‘gram, you know that Lateef Okunnu is doing something right. That ‘something’ is his dramatic photographs – sharp, stylised and sexy AF. His way with saturated colour and light is key to the intensity of his work There’s originality and playfulness too. Check out the behind-the-scenes reels and TikTok footage of the ‘making it rain’ series of photographs with the team at the Connaught Bar in London. That will give you an idea of why he’s in such high demand. When it comes to people shots, he builds trust with his subjects, giving them the confidence to take risks, while he brings the muchneeded warmth, energy, and movement to still-life shots that many other photographers fail to reach.

That know-how comes from a background across several sectors in the hospitality space, taking in editorial as well as a

BUILDING STORIES

The brand builder Robbie Bargh, Gorgeous Group Brand ideation, concept creation, experience design, food and drink strategy – you name it, Robbie Bargh’s Gorgeous Group does the lot. Having worked for hospitality venues from Accra to Zurich, across a varied selection of briefs and budgets, the company is one of the best at communicating concepts without using words.

“We start by looking at what the opportunity looks like – we do the research, look at the target audience, the trends, influences and what’s happening in the neighbourhood; we future proof, outline the vision, the strategy, the owner’s ambition, the capabilities of the team and what the experience should look and feel like. It’s only then that we define the story and start to identify the key elements that help to create memorable experiences,” Robbie explains. “What is critical is how the brand’s story becomes the individual and personal story of the guest.”

It’s a huge undertaking, not just for Robbie and his team but the client as well. But why is storytelling so important? “It’s what defines the uniqueness of each experience, of each project we are lucky enough to work on,” he continues. “The story is so much more than the food on a plate or the cocktail in a glass. It’s like a jigsaw puzzle, made up of singular pieces that on their own mean nothing but if put together can tell a spectacular story.

“We storyboard these pieces as a director or writer would do: ‘What is the elevator pitch? The magic dust that makes your story that little bit special?’ The sum of the parts is always greater than the individual pieces. Whether you are a grill restaurant in Istanbul, a cocktail bar in London, or a café inspired by Bombay, our job is to create compelling, exciting stories that deliver true emotion per square foot; memorable experiences that become social currency – the stuff that people talk about that really makes a difference.”

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variety of stints in events and marketing. All of the strands come together in Peppercorn Media, the company he founded in 2020 which specialises in social media, art direction and photography.

As someone who is much more comfortable behind the camera, Lateef isn’t one for talking about himself – or his work, which includes regular clients such as Gizzi Erskine, the Mr Lyan team, and the Swift bars. Instead we asked Giorgio Bargiani, Assistant Bar Director at the Connaught Bar, about why the team reaches out to Lateef to share their stories.

“I love working with Lateef as he’s able to capture our creativity, to encapsulate our unconventional ideas, and frame seemingly impossible shots,” Giorgio says. “He’s dynamic and very attentive; he’s always listening and putting his skills at our disposal.” And you can’t say fairer than that.

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IN PURSUIT OF PERFECTION Now in its eighth year, the highly anticipated bartending competition, PATRÓN Perfectionists 2022-2023, is back with a brand new, exciting education and engagement programme

THE CLASS OF PATRÓN PERFECTIONISTS 2021-2022 and Giulia Cuccurullo, 2020 Global winner; Right: Lauren Mote, Global Director of On-Trade Excellence; Far right: Harrison Kenney, 2021-2022 Global winner

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F

or the myriad bartenders around the world who aspire to win the coveted PATRÓN Perfectionists title, the prize not only brings prestige, but huge benefits for the wider bartending community and, in turn, their guests. Now the debut education and engagement programme will increase this circle further. “There has never been a dedicated education programme like this across any super premium tequila,” says Lauren Mote, Global Director of On-Trade Excellence for PATRÓN tequila. “For smaller markets, it’s a great opportunity for bartenders to learn about the tequila category as well as the PATRÓN style and processes of making tequila, plus they get this amazing contest and investment from the brand.”

THE LOWDOWN: INTRODUCING ACADEMIA PATRÓN PERFECTIONISTS

“Education and accessibility for bartenders around the world at every level has always been my primary focus,” Lauren says. “In addition to the physical education programmes that the bartenders can join in their cities, there will also be virtual sessions to make sure that any bartender, anywhere in the world, who wants to join and learn can join and learn. That’s why we’ve launched this programme to coincide with the competition entry, which runs from 1st September to 7th October 2022.”

THE POWER OF THREE “We’ve built the education around three trend-leading topics that PATRÓN has license to speak about – all three are connected to bartender development and linked to Mexico.” These are: 1. Discovering deliciousness How to… Understand the flavours of Mexico and learn how they can be interpreted around the world “We’re in the process of creating the ingredient encyclopedia which will be populated over several months, featuring bartenders globally. Eventually, it will build into a fully illustrated encyclopaedia of at least 150 ingredients – all tailored to PATRÓN tequila. It will also include other useful tips, such as which region the ingredient comes from and how local chefs and bartenders use it. In addition, we’ll be offering a template for bartenders to download so they can build their personal encyclopaedia with their own ingredients, highlighting flavours of their homes.”

2. Mastering the elements How to… Unlock flavour using a wide range of tools “The idea here is that, while some bars can afford equipment like rotovaps and centrifuges to tease out flavour, that kind of kit costs thousands of pounds and is out of reach for most bars. What we’re doing is taking the same ideas and sharing tips on how it is possible to use different processes to unlock flavour, and showing bartenders how to build a bar lab for under 100 bucks! It’s very exciting and really beneficial for all those taking part.”

3. ¡ Listo !

How to… Elevate the drinking experience “This module is about how bartenders can make a lasting impact on their final drink flourish – creating memories for their guests. We also discuss large format service and different ways of serving classic tequila drinks. The aim is to get the entire team, from all departments,

involved in the process, sharing ways and ideas for elevating classic serves and transforming them into exciting, possibly interactive rituals that their guests can enjoy.”

WELCOMING PATRÓN PERFECTIONISTS 2022-2023

Since its launch in 2015, the PATRÓN Perfectionists cocktail competition has become a massive draw in bartending circles. It’s easy to see why: for those who win their national finals, there’s a trip of a lifetime to the truly stunning Hacienda PATRÓN in Jalisco, Mexico, as well as a week of incredible experiences where they are immersed in Mexican culture for a better understanding of its people and region.

“We spent an entire week singing and dancing, laughing and crying happy tears,” says last year's global winner, Harrison Kenney from Sydney, Australia.

“It’s like being part of a bar team at

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first; then you realise you’ve made close friends and family for life.”

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Bartenders from 19 participating countries are tasked with creating a ‘Hometown Hero’ cocktail inspired by their local culture for the competition entry, using PATRÓN Silver as the star of the recipe. Submissions will be judged on appeal, appearance, inspiration and originality.

Each country narrows down the submissions to a shortlist of up to 10 bartenders to compete in the national finals which present a variety of topics, activities and exciting challenges.

Once the scores have been added up, the winner from each country will be announced. And a special Wild Card entry will be decided by a global judge, so one extra person will get to compete in the Grand Final in March 2023 (all 19 countries are eligible).

THE PRIZE As well as a week-long itinerary of unique experiences in Mexico, the winner receives an exquisite trophy hand-crafted by esteemed local artist Rodolfo Pailla.

Plus, the new PATRÓN Perfectionists title holder is invited to judge the following year’s national finals. Harrison Kenney is currently touring Europe, the Asia Pacific region and the Middle East to judge the PATRÓN Perfectionists national finals. Who will it be next year?

We'll have to wait and see.

To find out more and to submit entries, visit academiapatron.com; patronperfectionists.com Entries close at 23.59 GMT on 7 October 2022.

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SLUG HERE

A REAL PAGETURNER Some cocktail menus are so creative, well written and beautifully designed, you want to read them from cover to cover and even take them home. Yolanda Evans presents her favourite collectibles

W

hen you walk into a bar the first thing you’re usually offered is the drinks menu – which to my mind is the gateway to the establishment’s creativity. Along with chatting to the bartender, these menus are essential in capturing our imagination and tantalising our palates.

So much so that bars have become increasingly innovative, producing menus inspired by the arts, media, technology and more, creating a whole narrative around their drinks offering. So desirable, in some cases, they are even offered for sale as works of art in themselves. Here’s my pick of five of the most memorable in recent years.

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MENUS

Trick Dog, San Francisco Trick Dog’s kitschy, themed, bi-annual menus have cocktail enthusiasts flocking to its door. For its most recent edition, the team behind the bar collaborated with poet Katharine Ogle and illustrator-designer Alyssa Rusin to create In Good Spirits.

Dubbed one-part poetry anthology, two-parts cocktail menu, this boozy book is infused with works by 16 poets including Edna St. Vincent Millay, Emily Dickinson and Langston Hughes, as well as a poetry-themed drinks list with ‘couplets’ (highballs) and ‘slam poetry’ (shots). You can order a Yeats, made with Punt e Mes and Squirt, or a Personification made with Martini & Rossi Rubino Vermouth, Woodford Reserve Bourbon, and Angostura Bitters.

D EA D R A B B I T I LLU ST RAT I ON S : M A R K R EI H I L L

Dead Rabbit, New York In 2018, The Dead Rabbit Grocery & Grog in New York decided to revamp its award-winning drinks menu, The Dead Rabbit Drinks Manual, into a graphic novel called The Dead Rabbit Mixology & Mayhem. Working with the design studio Drinksology Creative and illustrator Mark Reihill, Dead Rabbit’s founders Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry and bar manager Jillian Vose created a colourful comic/history/cocktail book inspired by John Morrissey, founder of the notorious 19thcentury Irish-American street gang, The Dead Rabbits. Retelling his life through illustration, the book is divided into six chapters, with popular drinks-industry personalities portraying heroes and villains through cocktails like the Sucker Punch to reflect Morrissey’s gruesome exploits.

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MENUS

Midnight Cowboy, Austin, Texas

People seem to love a fright, as the popular thriller and horror genres have proved – from books to films and podcasts. Midnight Cowboy, a cocktail watering hole in Austin, offered a scary drinks session with a menu inspired by the Neon Films horror anthology, The Field Guide to Evil. The book was a joint effort between Alamo Drafthouse Bar’s creative director Tacy Rowland, who oversaw the cocktail development process, with assistance from Midnight Cowboy’s general manager Ryan Ehrlichman and bartenders Howard Franklin Holthoff and Sam Abdelfattah. Edited by Laura Jones, the spooky tome featured a black cover etched with crying masks and the leering head of a goat, created by cult store Mondo’s highly collectible artist Gary Pullin. The unique illustrations by Chris Bilheimer are beautifully drawn in coloured-pencil and interwoven with each story, in which the drinks represent good and evil characters.

The Blind Pig, London Although children and alcohol should never mix, The Blind Pig made the exception with a cocktail menu inspired by children’s books. Designed by The Social Company’s group bar manager, Jay Doy and his staff, it was a beautifully illustrated book with artwork

by Masha Karpushina. The 12 featured drinks paid homage to

classic children’s stories that we know and love, including The Very Hungry Caterpillar, The Hobbit, and the Winnie the Pooh-inspired Hunny Pot cocktail, made with Havana 7 rum, salted butter, Crowded Hive mead, Somerset apple brandy, lemon, honey, orange bitters, and Piglet, served in a clay honey jar.

The Beaufort Bar, The Savoy, London

The Beaufort Bar’s cocktail menu from 2014 took guests on a dramatic journey through pop-up cut-outs, just like a children’s book. Instead of fairy tales or adventure stories, this interactive 3-D menu featured signature cocktails such as The Blue Angel and the Frank Sinatra-inspired Old Blue Eyes. The illustrations did the talking, with the star ingredient taking centre stage. London-based illustrator and paper engineer Helen Friel worked with illustrator Joe Wilson to feature cocktails created by The Savoy’s head bartender, Chris Moore, who was inspired by a 1938 pop-up brochure he discovered in the hotel’s archives.

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THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

PODCAST Join us as we share what we’re drinking, where we’re going, products we’re trying, the drinks books we’re reading and all manner of cocktail-loving goodness. Plus, we catch up with our favourite movers and shakers in the cocktail world.

Just search “The Cocktail Lovers” wherever you listen and subscribe to your podcasts or scan the QR code to listen direct FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT THECOCKTAILLOVERS.COM/PODCAST

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BUSK IT! In just two years, The Busker Irish Whiskey has gone from new kid on the block to serious cocktail contender. Simona Bianco, Senior Global Marketing Manager, shares the story create something there. Working with the local community, he was determined to make something completely new in the world of Irish whiskey, reflecting contemporary Ireland. In 2017 he made his first whiskey and The Busker journey began.

Irish whiskey is enjoying a Renaissance – why do you think this is?

One key reason is historical.

There were very few distilleries in Ireland at the beginning of millennium and people didn’t really have a lot of choice for brands of Irish whiskey.

Nowadays, with the number of distilleries increasing every year, there is a real opportunity for people to experiment more.

And as Irish whiskey has less strict rules than Scotch, it allows us more freedom to balance tradition with new techniques and methods. This is the real essence of The Busker.

Simona Bianco, Senior Global Marketing Manager

Tell us about The Busker story.

Our best ideas always came from the late Augusto Reina, whose family founded ILLVA Saronno (the global company that owns Disaronno and Tia Maria amongst other classic products) and is The Busker’s parent company. He was superpassionate about innovation, knew everything about every kind of spirit, and when he visited the Royal Oak Distillery in Ireland he fell in love with it and wanted to

What makes The Busker unique?

First, the ageing process. This is key for whiskey, and we do this in rare, specially selected Marsala wine casks all coming from our Florio wineries in Sicily.

Secondly, we are one of only a few companies to produce all four typical Irish expressions under one roof. Royal Oak Distillery is located on an 18th century estate in Ireland's Ancient East region, renowned for its barley, so we also source our ingredients locally to ensure the finest quality.

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Why did you launch all four expressions of The Busker at once?

When you taste each one you appreciate their differences, from the smoothness of the blended Triple Cask Triple Smooth to the other expressions – Single Grain, Single Malt, and Single Pot Still, which are all examples of typical Irish whiskey. By launching them together we could really showcase the versatility of our distillery and the potential of our whiskey to please every palate.

The Busker is an intriguing name, tell us about its character.

The Busker is bold and challenges tradition. They are someone who brings people together wherever they go, always have a story to share, and always seeking the next special thing!

Where did “Busk it!” come from?

It’s about bartenders and drinkers enjoying The Busker in their own, unique way, then saying “Busk it!” instead of “Cheers!”, with a Busker cocktail Talking of bartenders, how are they using the range?

Bartenders’ creativity always delights me and they’ve been excited to find such a beautiful, versatile range to experiment with. What really surprised me was that I thought the Triple Cask Triple Smooth would be the most suitable for cocktails and the other expressions would appeal more for sipping. But when

the great US bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler worked with the range in London last year, he chose the Single Malt to make his amazing version of the amaretto sour.

What are some of the ways we can enjoy it at home?

Our signature serve is The Busker Paloma – a twist on the classic Paloma. It’s easy to make, very refreshing, and has a lower ABV. Similarly, it’s really nice to use The Busker to make other long drinks with ginger beer or cola.

How do you share it with friends?

It depends on the moment and situation. For a barbecue I like to serve simple highballs. So I offer all four expressions of The Busker and make sure there are lots of different mixers – tonic, soda, cola and ginger ale. Then I invite my friends to experiment and make their own version.

If it’s after dinner I like to pair The Busker with dessert. Again I encourage my friends to try the four expressions with different sweet dishes. It really fascinates me what people discover and how they enjoy it. This is really important - I want The Busker to be the drink for everyone.

What are you most looking forward to with The Busker?

We have a lot of partnerships with bartenders around the world. We started in the US and UK, now we want to make The Busker global and bring more people to our wonderful distillery in Ireland.

I can’t wait to share The Busker with more talented bartenders and discerning drinkers, and for them to discover their own way to Busk it!

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY thebusker.com

UNBOXING THE BUSKER

Catch up with the world’s best bartenders unboxing The Busker on Instagram to discover what they’re creating. @thebusker_official @themixingstar

THE BUSKER RANGE Triple Cask Triple Smooth Extraordinary smoothness

Single Grain Beautiful sweet finish

Single Malt Luscious fruity mouthfeel

Single Pot Still Warm and spicy

THE BUSKER PALOMA Ingredients: 1 part The Busker Triple Cask Triple Smooth 2 parts pink grapefruit soda Fresh mint to garnish Method: Fill a large glass with ice, pour in The Busker and top up with pink grapefruit soda. Stir, then garnish with fresh mint.

MYTHS

E

ven before that fateful day in 1779 when Betsy Flanagan created the cocktail by stirring a drink with a rooster’s tail feather in her tavern in Yorktown, Virginia (a fiction by James Fenimore Cooper in his 1821 novel, The Spy), drinking culture had its myth creators. Including the following:

The Daiquiri

How has the world believed that American engineer Jennings S. Cox Jr arrived in Cuba in the late 1800s and invented a drink the locals had been drinking for over 120 years? Jump back to 1762 when the Royal Navy captured the island of Cuba as a British colony for 18 months. As far as we know, before then, the Cubans had no tradition of combining rum, lime, sugar and dilution.

After that, the canchanchara became the island’s signature sip until it was renamed the Cuba Libre in 1868 by an American journalist covering the early skirmishes that would become the Cuban War of Independence (1895-1898). It was canchanchara that was drunk with a rebel yell, and not rum-and-cola drinks, which were likely born in Jamaica.

The Lo Mismo was another popular drink in those days: Americans overheard their Cuban hosts ordering drinks and then returning to the bar for lo mismo or “another”. Drinks writers of the time spread the name up and down the Eastern seaboard, blissfully unaware of the phrase’s true meaning. But what of Jennings S. Cox, Jr? Has anyone tried his recipe? It calls for crushed ice, soda water, and lemon – not lime – in the shaker.

The Pina Colada

The origins of the Piña Colada? 1954: The Caribe Hilton, San Juan, Puerto Rico. Years ago, we interviewed the bar manager, Ricardo Gracia, and one of the

COCK AND BULL STORIES Historians Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown debunk the myths behind a selection of classic drinks last surviving barbacks from those days, Hector Torres. Coco Lopez cream of coconut, an essential ingredient of the Piña Colada, was introduced there, so the story makes sense, but we found one inconsistency. Gracia assured us all their Piña Coladas were blended, but Torres said, “There were 49 bar staff, three blenders, and at least one blender was broken at any time. So, we figured out how to make the same drink by shaking with crushed ice… But if you’re speaking to Señor Gracia, please don’t tell him we did that.” Of course, there were earlier Piña Coladas. Back in 1920s Cuba they were just shaken pineapple juice, which is what piña colada means, or a cocktail of pineapple juice, rum, and lime.

Espresso Martini

British bartender Dick Bradsell could not recall where the stories began that he had invented the Espresso Martini for Naomi Campbell (or Kate Moss, depending on who was telling the tale). He’d heard both when he wrote, signed and dated his version of the fateful day a young model walked into the Soho Brasserie and asked him for a drink that “would wake me up and fuck me up.” He had no recollection who she was, but said she was American.

The drink he made her was not the one known and loved around the world today, but a Vodka Espresso served on

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the rocks. He didn’t serve it ‘up’ until he started at Match EC1.

The Manhattan

It was drinks historian David Wondrich who debunked the birth of the Manhattan. New York socialite and mother of Winston Churchill, Jennie Jerome, supposedly invented it in 1876 at a party for presidential candidate Samuel Tilden. Even though she was in England having young Winston baptised at the time!

Perhaps the greatest modern myth was the Seelbach cocktail, invented in the mid-Nineties but given an origin story dating to 1912 by its creator, mixologist Adam Seger. Its ancestry was written up

by Gary Regan in New Classic Cocktails and Ted Haigh in Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails before Seger shocked everyone by admitting the hoax in a 2016 interview with The New York Times.

The other thing is, writers tend to drink and then write. But in 1886 was the writer or printer drinking when he set the type for the first-ever appearance of a Martini recipe, which reads “equal parts gin and orange bitters”. They left out “vermouth and a dash of”. Pity the guest whose bartender serves that recipe.

While such myths and hoaxes are the bane of drinks historians, they bring unique flavour to what they describe.

SLUG HERE

MESSAGE IN A

BOTTLE

Obsessions, myths, celebrations, searchings and new kinds of experiences: the stories within five very different bottles Photography Stylist

Jamie Lau Scott Bentley

The Spirit of the Night Seventy One Sit back…

An internationally acclaimed fashion photographer, Mert Alas is obsessed with creations that are strange and beautiful. His obsession led him to reconstruct the idea of what gin means today.

Using the techniques of perfumery, the science of distillation, and the craft of blending, he has balanced the classical and contemporary.

Resting botanical elements for 71 nights in oak casks and including the rare Queen of the Night cactus, which blooms just once a year, he created Seventy One, The Spirit of the Night. …and savour

Late at night, neat, on the rocks or in a Naked Martini. seventyonegin.com

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PHOTOSTORY

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More is hidden than revealed X MUSE

…and savour

Sit back…

In Greek mythology the Nine Muses represent divine sparks of art and creativity; each is named and plays an inspirational role. But there is a Tenth Muse, unnamed, unknowable, and beyond form, not defined or understood.

For alchemists this Tenth Muse combines and focuses the powers of her nine sisters, the muse above all muses pushing towards perfect harmony and balance. She is the inspiration for the qualities found in the Scottish barley vodka, X MUSE, or rather, ‘Tenth Muse’.

60ml X Muse 1 drop olive distillate Caper berry to garnish Stir ingredients over ice and serve in a chilled Coupette glass. Garnish with a caper berry. xmusevodka.com

X Muse Martini

by Sébastien Gans

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PHOTOSTORY

Celebrating the seductive beauty of a natural landscape La Hechicera Sit back…

Nestling between two oceans and marked by three mountain ranges, Colombia is a myriad of breathtaking tropical rainforests, cloud forests, mountain steppes, deserts and plains. Celebrating this natural landscape in an exquisite rum, it’s only fitting that the spirit should be equally natural.

With no additives or sugar, it is crafted in the traditional way, its smoothness and flavour the result of the noble wood in which it is aged. And in honour of the seductive beauty of the country it is named La Hechicera, ‘The Enchantress’. …and savour

Gold Fashioned 50ml La Hechicera Reserva Familiar rum 1 small cube of brown sugar and edible gold dust 4 drops classic, orange, cocoa or coffee bitters Stir over ice and serve in a classic tumbler.

Garnish with a dehydrated orange wheel lahechicera.co

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PHOTOSTORY

Searching for the perfect cocktail spirit The SG Shochu Sit back…

During his 10 years as a pioneering bartender, Shingo Gokan has been on a quest, searching for a spirit to meet the demands of the ever evolving cocktail world.

He found his inspiration in his native Japan where he reimagined the country’s spirit, shochu, through collaborations with three top producers. The result, three more intense interpretations of traditional spirits – Mugi, made from barley; Kome, made from rice; and Imo, made from sweet potato. And all created with exceptional cocktails in mind. …and savour

Pegu Club

40ml The SG Shochu MUGI 20ml Cointreau 13ml lemon juice 1 dash Angostura Bitters 1 dash orange bitters Shake ingredients over ice and serve straight up. thesgshochu.com 44 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 42

Blending not just whisky but experiences Woven Sit back…

There are some friends in Leith, Scotland, who wanted to make the art of blending more experimental, more experiential, and more human.

Seeking out the best whiskies from around the world, they judged them not by origin, reputation, age, cost or narrative, but by the ability of each to contribute to a new blended experience. Like Experience No.9, The Elixir of Leith, a love letter to their home. …and savour

Alone with your feet up; at a party with friends; with ice and a dash of soda; in a special whisky glass or as a cocktail, as long as it’s an experience you enjoy. wovenwhisky.com

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ORIGIN STORIES From family tragedy to reviving a forgotten spirit, Millie Milliken finds seven drinks brands that perfectly match the seven story archetypes

ONE

Rags to riches

A modest hero turns their talents into great achievement When it comes to the story behind Seedlip, the ‘rags to riches’ archetype is as literal as it gets. When he left school, founder Ben Branson joined his father’s design agency and spent the next decade designing other people’s drinks brands.

When Ben launched Seedlip back in 2015, it was the first commercial product of its kind: a distilled non-alcoholic spirit.

Its first run of 1,000 bottles at Selfridges sold out within a week. Fast-forward just seven years and Seedlip has graduated from Ben’s kitchen to over 25 countries around the world – by way of a majority share bought by Diageo in 2019. Today, Seedlip has become synonymous with the non-alcoholic movement; it’s the founding father of the entire category and the catalyst for hundreds of new non-alcoholic products.

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BEGINNINGS

TWO

Comedy

An absurd and humorous series of events ends with a twist Have you ever wondered why the Angostura Bitters label is larger than the bottle? Wonder no more. It turns out it was a classic case of miscommunication.

In 1870, the brand’s founder, Dr Johann Siegert – who had moved from Germany to Venezuela and became the Surgeon General for Símon Bolivár’s army – died and left the company to his sons Carlos, Luis and Alfredo. Looking to give their father’s bitters a boost and a rebrand, they created a competition between themselves, with one brother designing the new label and another the bottle. What they failed to do, however, was consult each other on the sizes, and by the time they noticed, it was too late. None of the brothers won the competition but one of the judges recommended the brothers keep their new design. Over 100 years later, Angostura Bitters’ oversized label is essential to its charm.

THREE

The epic voyage

Our hero or heroine embarks on a journey of discovery and returns a changed person When it comes to voyages of discovery, vodka brands don’t spring to mind, yet Ketel One’s 300-year history has seen the Nolet family travel back and forth between Holland and America on fascinating journeys. It all began in 1691 in Schiedam, Holland, where Joanness Nolet settled on a home for his distillery. Spirit production continued unscathed – even in 1789 when the French Revolution sent shudders around the globe. By 1902, the eighthgeneration Joanness Nolet left for Baltimore in Maryland to recreate an American branch of his family distillery, but by 1920 and the threat of Prohibition, he headed back to Schiedam. When Carolus Nolet was given the keys to the family kingdom in 1979, he re-embarked on his grandfather’s voyage to the USA and set forth to learn about its cocktail culture. After seeing what people were drinking and what bartenders were looking for, he went home to Holland and Ketel One vodka was born.

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BEGINNINGS

FOUR

The quest

The protagonist sets forth on a mission and returns victorious I have yet to meet anyone in this industry that is as focused and unrelentingly determined as Barney Wilczak, founder of Capreolus Distillery. A former conservation photographer, when Barney retired his camera as a full-time profession, he turned his attention to Eau-de-Vie, a clear fruit brandy that has remained largely untouched in the UK. Barney’s quest? To create fruit Eaux-de-Vies that are the purest, closest versions of their core ingredient as possible. He makes them in a custom-made copper still – in a greenhouse in his back garden. Locally grown fruits are delivered to his house in colossal volumes, and he and a small team process every single piece by hand. Bottles are hand-labelled and packed with handwritten details. A single bottle of raspberry Eau-de-Vie contains 70 punnets of the soft fruit. The world’s best restaurants and bars are paying attention, with Capreolus on countless menus around the globe.

Attention to detail and a dogged approach to his craft means that, after more than 10 years of distilling, Barney has fulfilled his quest.

FIVE

Slaying the dragon

A challenge must be overcome to achieve a seemingly impossible goal Have you ever heard of Rosolio? This Italian vermouth originated in the 15th century and was a popular aperitif that somehow fell out of favour and remained neglected until 2016, when Giuseppe Gallo launched Italicus. Based on a recipe dating back to the 1800s that includes chamomile, lavender and Melissa balm, it also celebrates bergamot and Italian citrus fruit, which Giuseppe chose for their distinct flavour. Launching a liqueur based on a centuries-forgotten Italian recipe – and selling it – is no mean feat, but Giuseppe’s done it in spades: Italicus has won myriad awards over the last six years, was bought by drinks giant Pernod Ricard in 2020, and has an annual turnover of more than £2 million. Found behind the bar of many of world’s finest drinking establishments, Italicus has wrestled the beast and won.

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SIX

Tragedy

The protagonist is plagued by a series of devastating events Bankruptcy, family disaster, earthquakes and exile – the story behind one of the Caribbean’s most famous rums, Bacardí, is rife with loss. Santiago de Cuba – the home of founders Facundo Bacardí and his wife, Amalia Victoria Moreau – was hit by two earthquakes in 1852, which was followed by an outbreak of cholera that claimed the lives of two of their children. After that, their business was looted and they had to file for bankruptcy. Luckily, the following century the family re-started the Bacardí business, making a name for themselves by creating the gold-standard Cuban rum and – after a brief exile in the 1950s – won more than 900 awards, establishing Bacardí as one of the most famous drinks in the world. Sadly, a more recent tragedy saw the Bacardí family lose the heir to the dynasty in 2005, when Facundo’s great-great-grandson, Sergio Danguillecourt and his wife died in a seaplane crash off Miami Beach. Here’s hoping that marks the end of Bacardí’s bad luck.

SEVEN

Rebirth

Redemption, reinvention and emerging reborn In the historic town of Oldmeldrum near Aberdeen is one of Scotland’s oldest operating whisky distilleries, Glen Garioch. Bought by John Manson in 1797, the small but mighty distillery sits in the valley of Garioch and has had four opportunities to reinvent itself.

The first came when the distillery was closed during the Second World War. The second came in 1995, when it closed for two years after launching Glen Garioch 1995 – which the distillery thought would be the last edition to be made with smoked barley. In 1997 it reopened with an unpeated whisky, and in 2009 it went through a rebrand.

The most recent reincarnation of Glen Garioch, however, is a nod to its former life. With a £6 million investment under its belt, the distillery has reintroduced floor maltings and will return to making peated whiskies. Turns out, they do make them like they used to.

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Autumn beauties

The latest bottles to perk up your drinks cabinet this season

Low ABV

BEESOU HONEY APERITIF

AKER ENGLISH ROSÉ APERITIF

They say: “We’re on a mission to create all-natural, environmentally friendly, honey-based drinks that taste great – whilst saving the bees.”

We say: God bless the bees! There’s honey alright but in no way is it sweet or cloying – quite the opposite in fact. Enjoy it in a spritz or in the suggested Beegroni.

11% ABV, 70cl, RRP £29.99

They say: “Aker champions and celebrates all the land has to offer, distilling acres of English countryside into a single drop.”

We say: Ooh, do we taste strawberries? With a hint of cream?

Agreeably fruity, this new aperitif blends select rosé wines from one of the leading English wineries, Chapel Down, together with English botanicals and raspberry eau-de-vie for an allround, delightfully refreshing tipple.

17% ABV, 70cl, RRP £35.25

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NEW PRODUCTS

Cognac RÉMY MARTIN XO They say: “For the first time since its creation in 1981, the XO decanter has been reimagined by (designer)Lee Broom, while paying tribute to its already iconic style.”

We say: More than a pretty face, this bottle is custodian to a luxury liquid that’s positively bursting with tropical fruits, spice and orangey goodness.

40% ABV, 70cl, RRP £143.45

Whisky THE GLENLIVET CARIBBEAN RESERVE

GOLDFINCH PALOMA

They say: “To create a whisky with a tropical twist, the makers of The Glenlivet finished a portion of the smooth whisky in barrels that previously held Caribbean rum.”

We say: What happens when you round off Scotch in rum barrels? A smooth taste explosion, that’s what.

40% ABV, 70cl, RRP £36

They say: “We created Paloma to show the expansive influence that different types of sherries can have on a variety of single malt whiskies.”

We say: The beautifully designed bottle is a clue to the quality of the liquid inside – single malt whisky from Speyside, finished in Palo Cortado sherry casks.

53.2% ABV, 70cl, RRP from £85

Gin CAMBRIDGE DISTILLERY AUTUMN WINTER GIN

Rum

BACARDÍ RESERVA OCHO RYE CASK FINISH

ELIZABETH YARD – RUM UNION

They say: “The all-new Reserva Ocho Rye Cask Finish is characterised by smokiness interlaced with wood, caramelised brown sugar and subtle notes of vanilla.”

We say: Deep and rich with a lovely hit of smokiness, this limited-edition rum is a beaut.

45% ABV, 75cl, RRP $32.99

They say: “A blended rum with a modern outlook. We work with rum producers who use 100% locally grown sugar cane.”

We say: It’s a union for sure, with sugar cane juice from Vietnam, pot still rum from Ghana and a molasses-based rum from the Philippines.

45.3% ABV, 70cl, RRP £39.99

They say: “Vintage 2021 Autumn/Winter is a gin with real provenance and draws from the world of wine in terms of regional expression and vintage variation.”

We say: Another cool product from the bright minds at Cambridge Distillery.

44% ABV, 70cl, RRP £150

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In Print. on digital.

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For details of how to subscribe, set up gift subscriptions and get back issues visit our website or scan the QR code thecocktaillovers.com/magazine

DIGESTIF TIME TO SIP, SAVOUR AND CONTEMPLATE

p. 56 The Cocktail Girl

Indulge your inner Hollywood hero at The Savoy’s refurbished Beaufort Bar

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IN THIS ISSUE The secrets of The Bartender’s Travelling Book; date nights with dinner and drinks in London and Louisiana; visiting cocktails’ spiritual home in New Orleans, and more...

From left: Adding their messages to the book at a special ceremony at Donovan's Bar in London, Alessandro Palazzi; Giuliano Morandin; Peter Dorelli; Giancarlo Mancino, and Salvatore Calabrese

Above: Inscribing one of the 333 handmade, handbound pages.

Below: Julio Bermejo and Julio Cabrera

H E R I TA G E

THE BOOMERANG BOOK Usually bartenders pass along pre-made cocktails from venue to venue, but there’s an exquisitely made, invitation-only volume doing the rounds: The Bartenders’ Travelling Book

I

n these days of instant this and fast-track that; of being able to contact anyone, anywhere in the world within seconds, there’s something reassuring and – dare we say it – quaint, about The Bartenders’ Travelling Book. Everything about it embodies care, consideration and connection – only instead of tapping on tablets or phones the messages are documented in hand-written notes. How did it start? The story goes like this…

Once upon a time, there was a man called Adam Slavík. A frequent guest at Bugsy’s Bar in his native Prague, he wanted to show his appreciation to its legendary owner-bartender, Václav Vojíř, and the drinks industry in general by presenting Václav with a special gift. That gift was a book. Not just any old book, but a work of monumental undertaking and intent.

The idea was for the book to be passed along to bartenders around the world by their respected peers, with everyone writing an original entry. “I heard about it six years ago or so,” says former bartender Giancarlo Mancino, creator of Mancino Vermouth and bar and beverage consultant with Rosewood Hotels. “I thought it was an amazing concept – knowing that someone has recommended you to be part of this incredible book cements friendships and sends a message out to the bartending community and the world in general,” he says.

Comprising 333 pages of handmade paper from Velké Losiny, one of the

oldest paper mills in Europe, with a handsome cognac-coloured leather cover, bound by master book binder Jiří Fogl, it’s a thing of beauty and magnitude. Inside, its pages are blank, save for some notes, including: “If you are holding this book in your hands, you have the proud right to make an entry. The book was sent to you by a person near or far, but by one that holds you in high esteem. Your entry will be a symphony of togetherness of the most important bartending personalities in the whole world, across continents and various cultures.”

There’s more, with instructions on how to pass it on, but that’s for the next recipient to discover.

It took one year from concept to hand-over of the The Bartenders’ Travelling Book to the man who sparked the idea. That was on World Cocktail Day, 13 May 2009. To mark the occasion, it was christened with the most expensive cocktail in the world at the

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time, the Manhattan Exclusive, at €666.

Since then, the book has done exactly what Adam intended – captured special messages and cocktail recipes from the great and the good of bartending. From Václav Vojíř and Stanislav Vadrna in the Czech Republic, where its journey began, to Jim Meehan and Jack McGarry in New York, there are also entries from the late, great Gary Regan and Salim Khoury, as well as the likes of David Cordoba, Erik Lorincz and Simon Ford. Don’t know the names? As William Pravda, Adam’s appointed book custodian, says: “Whoever’s name is in the book has already done something incredible in this industry and it’s important that the world should know how beautiful and connected this industry is.” Pravda is currently documenting and photographing the contents, getting it ready for a wider audience.

When the drinks community was in London for the World’s 50 Best Bars Awards 2021, the book made a special appearance at a unique reception at Donovan’s Bar. On the guest list were industry stalwarts including Peter Dorelli (ex-Savoy); Alessandro Palazzi (Dukes); Salvatore Calabrese (Donovan Bar); Giuliano Morandin (The Dorchester); and Julio Cabrera (Tommy’s). They all signed the book together with Mancino, the event’s organiser. “For me it was a dream come true – seeing the names of legends that have passed and writing something cool for my colleagues. Can you imagine how amazing this book will be to read in 50 years’ time?”

OUT AND ABOUT

THE COCKTAIL GIRL INDULGES… in the glamour of the reopened Beaufort Bar

There’s something about the jet-black and gold decor at the Beaufort Bar at The Savoy that makes me channel my inner Jessica Rabbit. I want to don a posh frock, pout a bit, and flick my hair a lot. Not that there’s a dressing-up code (the real me turned up in trainers), but still, given the theme of this issue I thought it only apt to give myself a character for my chosen venue.

So, time to ‘fess up: I’ve always loved The Savoy’s American Bar for its history, the wonderful piano playing and, of course, its drinks, but when it comes to the luxe factor, its sister, the Beaufort Bar, wins hands down.

It’s the Marilyn Monroe to the American Bar’s Laurence Olivier, when they starred in the 1957 British comedy, The Prince and the Showgirl: it’s chic, sexy, and decadent and boy, does it pack a visual punch.

Even if I hadn’t heard that

it was kitted out in £38,000 of gold leaf detailing, I would still be impressed. See that raised area where the bar proudly sits?

Where the team display their mixing skills? That was once the cabaret stage where legends like Frank Sinatra and George Gershwin once performed.

As much as I liked it before its recent refresh, I’ve got to say, I’ve fallen big time for the Beaufort Bar’s magic now. Under the direction of hospitality consultant Anna Sebastian (who, a few years back, spent time managing this very room), it’s leaning into its looks and embracing late-night flirtations and indulgences of the night to mesmerising effect.

Out goes the piano and mood-jarring entrance from the Thames Foyer. In comes a nightly DJ, new lighting, and table arrangements with just the right amount of plantings to add a hint

Beaufort Bar, The Savoy, The Strand, London WC2R 0EZ

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of life, grace, and colour to the back of the room. There’s also a new cocktail menu, Nocturne, which I’m reliably informed takes its inspiration from The Savoy’s previous incarnation as a royal palace and historical links to the Montmorencey-Beaufort Champagne region. I mean, who even knew?

It’s Champagne à-go-go on this exquisite list, not just the actual bubbles but the ingredients that echo the notes and nuances found in this majestic liquid. We started our evening with the Beaufort Bar Bundle – a perfectly chilled glass of Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut NV and a ‘bump’ of Sturia caviar positioned along the plane of our thumbs. It’s a whole lot of louche

and a really fun way to kick off a gorgeous evening.

To follow, I went for the signature – the Golden Apple Champagne Cocktail (Michter’s Rye whiskey; Courvoisier XO cognac; Calvados; red toffee apple and vanilla and LaurentPerrier La Cuvée Brut NV), which is presented table-side, along with a spoon cradling a fab 24K gold sugar cube served over a vessel filled with dry ice. Bear with me… Then just

THE COCKTAIL GUY SETTLES IN… to his new home from home

CA I TL I N I S O LA

IT’S A WHOLE LOT OF LOUCHE AND A REALLY FUN WAY TO KICK OFF AN EVENING as my excitement reached fever pitch, the spoon was immersed and stirred into my elegant Coupe glass – it was all I could do to stop myself from clapping. It’s dramatic and beautiful and, above all, absolutely delicious, with crisp apple notes complimenting the Champagne like a dream.

My guest opted for the Lucky Seventy One Negroni (Seventy One Gin; Matsui Umeshu; Campari; Sipello infused with plums) – it’s a Negroni and then some, elevated to great new heights by way of some carefully chosen ingredients.

Our verdict: Sumptuous and seductive, it reclaims its space as our favourite date-night spot in town.

Seed Library, One Hundred Shoreditch Hotel, 100 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6JQ

Have you ever visited a bar and thought, “I’d quite like to live here”?

Well, that’s exactly how this cocktail guy felt within minutes of settling into the Seed Library.

Located beneath One Hundred Shoreditch Hotel, it’s a space that is neither too big, nor too small. There are low ceilings and equally low lighting, while along one wall are modular shelves heaving with so much vinyl it’s as though a Seventies DJ has donated their entire record collection. The bar area itself has a Scandinavian cleanness of line that is exceptionally easy on the eye, while the seating is invitingly intimate. The sum of the parts feels like a super-cool lounge. Hence my wanting to live there.

As for the menu, at first glance, it looks like a list of classics.

Absolutely nothing wrong with that, but a little surprising perhaps, given the bar comes from Mr Lyan (the team behind Lyaness and many other multi award-winning bars), renowned for boundary-pushing creativity in the drinks world. They describe it as having “a focus on stripped-back analogue forms… in our music, stylings, food and drinks.” Hence the aforementioned vinyl selection. But getting back to the menu, a closer look reveals that all is not quite what it seems.

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I started with the Purple Shiso Martini (Belvedere Heritage vodka; Cocchi Dry; Mark’s Purple shiso leaf) and everything made sense.

Yes, it was a Dry Martini but with an altogether more intense, delicious dryness.

Meanwhile, my date was seduced by the Spicy Metropolitan (Grey Goose vodka; salted raspberry; scotch bonnet; orange liqueur), enthusing about the way some spicy heat played nicely with just a hint of sweetness.

My Coriander Seed Gimlet (Beefeater London Dry Gin, coriander seed cordial) cleverly used the coriander to beautifully enhance the gin. While the Chive Daiquiri (Bacardi Carta Blanca; chive; coconut milk; lime) was the surprise of the evening. Chive and coconut milk in a Daiquiri? Trust me, it was sublime.

As for food, the likes of Chicken Fat Popcorn and Wild Mushroom Flatbread with Pickled Walnut Ketchup were surprising and delightful in equal measure. But, whatever you do, make sure you order the Potato Smileys Black Garlic Ranch. Yes, those little smiling faces made us laugh, but boy, were they tasty too.

Sadly, I may never be able to live there, but I strongly suspect it’ll become my home from home.

HOW-TO

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

When it comes to describing cocktails, you’ll want to swallow your words, says Zoe Burgess, founder of drinks consultancy Atelier Pip

C

ocktails are magical.

We’ve all experienced cocktail moments that have stayed with us; positive experiences that become happy memories. In a sense, these vessels of flavour become the punctuation to our stories from a night out or gathering with friends.

This is partly why I fell in love with cocktails – it’s their power to become forever associated with a time, place, person and mood.

When I recently reflected on my understanding of cocktails, not just from the perspective of taste, but from their connection to our personal history, I felt a responsibility to share my point of view; my cocktail story. That’s how my debut book, The Cocktail Cabinet: The art, science and pleasure of mixing the perfect drink, was born.

Now, I will say this: I’m not a natural writer. I’ve never previously been drawn to it or really enjoyed it. But ideas, potential and details are key drivers for me and my work – plus I like a challenge! – so I decided it was time to address my writing fears and find my voice. After all, if I understand the creation of a shared cocktail moment between host and guest, then I can create an exchange of cocktail knowledge between writer and reader.

If you’re thinking about telling your story through the craft of the written word, then read on – I have a few tips to share with you:

2. Have a plan. When it comes to writing a book, a content page expanded into key point and goals will help keep your mind organised and focused.

3. Don’t force it, but do be dedicated to your craft.

Committing words to paper is hard. It’s even harder getting to the point with as few words as possible. Sometimes you are just not in the mood, and that’s ok. But do invest time in understanding your mind, moods and most motivated or inspired times to capture ideas to paper. Embrace your rhythm and use it to your advantage.

4. Be careful – writing is addictive!

Get it in writing

Edited extract from ‘The Cocktail Cabinet: The art, science and pleasure of mixing the perfect drink’ by Zoe Burgess (Mitchell Beazley, £20), out now at all good bookshops.

1. Find your writing style and tone of voice. If, like me, you aren’t a natural writer, then appreciate this will take time, a lot of words and many edits.

Whisky Highball 25ml Japanese whisky 1.25ml sugar syrup 75ml soda water regular cubed ice (or just 1 large cube to serve) Method: Fill the glass right to the top with ice, add the whisky and sugar syrup, and stir three times to combine. Top up the drink with soda water, gently stir three times to combine and serve.

Note: I like to use a small Japanese Highball glass, which I feel holds the perfect volume of liquid for an aperitif. If you are working with a larger glass, do scale up the recipe.

Several Japanese drinking vinegars are now available online – just a dash adds a touch of life to a drink. If you want to explore the potential of the Whisky Highball, try adding 1.25-2.5ml (1/4 – 1/2 tsp) of one of these aromatic, sweetand-sour balanced vinegars to the cocktail and see what you think.

Schofields’s Bar Martini 1. 60ml Boatyard Double Gin 2. 10ml Schofield’s Dry Vermouth 3. 1 drop Regans’ Orange Bitters Method: Stir ingredients with ice in a mixing tin. Strain into a chilled Martini glass. Garnish with an olive or a small lemon zest.

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TCL PARTNER

SEASONAL SUGGESTIONS Dawn Davies, Buying Director of Speciality Drinks and The Whisky Exchange travels the globe to source her favourite bottles for Autumn

TAKE THREE INGREDIENTS Daniel and Joe Schofield of Schofield’s Bar, Atomeca and Sterling Bar, Manchester

“The beautiful thing about a Martini is that it can be enjoyed throughout the day to celebrate or to commiserate, and can be made 100 ways. Our recipe lets the ingredients shine through, allowing the Boatyard Gin to be prevalent, but the SCHOFIELD'S Dry Vermouth adds a lovely floral backbone.”

With the cost of Scotch whisky going upward and availability going downward, we are on the hunt for new bottles to fill our drinks cabinet. Luckily, there are still some gems to be found.

We can start in our own backyard. In Scotland and England there are a wealth of new distilleries, from Lochlea in the North to White Peak in the South. Over in Ireland, there are a host of up-and-coming distilleries: Boann, in Drogheda, is doing some insanely exciting stuff with heritage grains, while Teeling, in Dublin, is playing around with all sorts of casks, from rum to ginger beer.

But be warned: Most ‘new’ Irish brands are just buying aged stock from the same few established distilleries and finishing it, so do your research.

You can hop across the Channel to France, where Eddu and Glann Ar Mor are two of my favourites, or sail the North Sea to the Netherlands and seek out the wonderful whiskies from Zuidam. In Israel we find Milk and Honey, with its experiments in ageing by the Dead Sea (the lowest place on Earth), and heading further east to India, Taiwan and China, there are even more treasures to be had.

Australia is also getting in on the action – try the ryes from The Gospel – while a stunner from New Zealand is Thomson and its Manuka Smoke single malt. The Americas have corn whiskey from Mexico and amazing ryes from Canada, and don’t forget the new class of Single Malts in America: #notjustaboutbourbon.

Whether you like your whisky with an ‘e’ or just a ‘y’, you’ll find something great on the map. From Aurora Spirit in Norway, the northernmost distillery in the world at 69.39°N, to Cardrona in New Zealand at 44.8°S, there has never been a more exciting time to be an intrepid whisky explorer.

All available from thewhiskyexchange.com.

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MAINS & MARTINIS

Reimagined classic dishes and drinks in New Orleans, plus two great spaces in London: one with bistro dining underneath railway arches, the other in an ever-s0 stylish room oozing with theatrical glamour

Miss River

2 CANAL STREET, NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA 70130. MISSRIVERNOLA.COM (£££)

The vibe: Tucked away within the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel, walking into Miss River made us feel like we’d been invited to a rather nice private event. Understated design and pastel shades combine to create a delightful sense of calm, while huge windows allow the passing of evening into night to bring an intimate atmosphere. The service is informal but incredibly knowledgeable – talking to the charming staff about the menu, they clearly know it inside out.

The food: The concept is actually deceptively simple. Chef Partner, Alon Shaya, has considered the classic dishes for which New Orleans is rightly famous and reimagined them in an exceptionally upscale way. The star of this approach absolutely has to be the Carved Buttermilk-Fried Chicken with dipping sauces. It’s fried chicken, but

not as we know it. Rather than individual pieces, the whole chicken – yes, the whole chicken – is deep fried. It was then brought to the table in all its glory and carved before our very eyes. More than just a potential gimmick it was sublime, oozing with rich, spicy flavours.

Equally amazing was the Clay Pot Dirty Rice served with crispy panroasted duck breast, duck egg yolk, creamy liver pâté, and scallions. Like the chicken, there was, once again, an air of theatricality as the ingredients were mixed at our table. To add to the anticipation, the way in which it was lovingly assembled teases you just that bit more. Yes, it’s super rich, but it was super divine. One thing’s for sure, you won’t leave hungry.

The drinks: We were really spoilt for choice with the drinks offering, so we

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topped and tailed our dining experience.

We started with cocktails in the hotel’s Chandelier Bar before closing the evening with digestifs in the restaurant.

Like the food, the drinks pay homage to the city under the watchful eye of Beverage Manager, Hadi Ktiri, and it’s particularly worth noting that New Orleans is responsible for some cocktail classics (see p. 62). The Sazerac (rye; Legendre Herbsaint; cane sugar and Peychaud’s Bitters) was sophisticated and sensational, and the French 75 (cognac; lemon; sugar and Champagne) was light and uplifting. Both courtesy of the Chandelier Bar. In the restaurant, the Four Decades (tequila; mandarin liqueur; passionfruit; basil and black sea salt), and Port City Old Fashioned (aged rum; fig and cinnamon bitters and Mississippi honey) were both beautiful and rounded off our evening in spectacular fashion.

E AT & D R I N K

Sager + Wilde

250 PARADISE ROW, LONDON, E2 9LE. SAGERANDWILDE.COM (££)

The vibe: Apart from the distinctive curve of the ceiling and some exposed brickwork, you’d never know you’re inside a converted railway arch. With lots of dark wood, candles on tables, and copious old, empty wine bottles lining the walls, it evokes an appealing, traditional, and very informal bistro. The informality is underlined with relaxed, friendly service. There’s also a terrace overlooking the park opposite.

The food: In keeping with the bistro feel, the food has a pleasing rusticity about it. We shared the Cured Trout with fennel seed crème fraîche, watermelon, macadamia and dill oil, which was fantastically fresh, and the incredible rosemary focaccia was perfect for swooping up the sauce. For mains, we enjoyed two takes on ragu: One – traditional, Tuscan Sausage Tagliatelle, chilli and pecorino, was good and spicy; the other – Girolle and Mushroom Ragu, with pine

nut, celeriac and macadamia velouté, had a beautiful meaty texture, along with an incredibly rich and tasty sauce.

As the latter is served without pasta, we indulged in Emerald Potatoes with seaweed butter.

We absolutely loved these – the butter was a revelation, spiriting us away with a taste of the sea.

The drinks: Given the prevalence of wine bottles, both empty for display and plenty ready to be ordered, you could be forgiven for thinking that the cocktail offering would be something of an afterthought. Absolutely not.

From the Classics section, we tried the Gin Martini (Bombay Sapphire Premier Cru and Noilly Pratt) which was perfectly diluted and chilled, while the Super 8 (Bacardí 8, Sager + Wilde fortified wine and fino) beautifully balanced the house fortified wine with the other ingredients for real depth. It’s a drink we would absolutely return for.

Sessions Arts Club

24 CLERKENWELL GREEN, FARRINGDON, LONDON, EC1R 0NA. SESSIONSARTSCLUB.COM (££)

The vibe: There’s something about faded glamour that we particularly love, and the entire look and atmosphere of this building suggests its past was a very grand one indeed – particularly the dining room.

Featuring peeling plaster, exposed brickwork, and a multitude of original features, it’s a real show stopper of a room.

The food: A glance through the dishes is enough to excite the palate. No fancy descriptions, just the key ingredients. We loved the Sea Bream, fig leaf and sorrel, an incredible combination of flavours.

Likewise the Pork, Fennel & Black Olive. Everything was zingingly fresh, with the natural flavours teased out rather than overworked or overwhelmed. The menu changes regularly, which in itself is a fantastic reason for constant return visits.

The drinks: Like the food, the drinks list is minimal but considered. Just five red and five white wines, plus a smattering of fizz, sweet, and non-alcoholic.

As for the cocktails... Eight seasonal choices, with no fancy descriptions. Instead, they are all classic drinks, but each one is enhanced with a single additional ingredient.

Yes, we did try several. The Pea Gin & Tonic had a fantastic freshness thanks to the green element.

The fruit in the Cherry Tequila Collins balanced the spirit nicely. And the herb in the Rosemary Negroni felt right at home with the drink’s natural herbaceousness. Similarly, the addition of a herb in the Sage Old Fashioned brought a delicious new dimension to the drink. Inspired and inspiring.

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The Roosevelt Hotel is home to New Orleans' most famous cocktail – the Sazerac

A SIP OF NEW ORLEANS

This Louisiana city is the spiritual home of the cocktail, where countless classics were born. Phil Huckle shares their stories

T

he population of New Orleans is 376,971, according to the 2022 US census. The contrast with New York (8.9 million) and London (9.3 million) is stark. I mention the difference in population size as all three cities have an influential drinks and cocktail culture, but it’s New Orleans that punches above its weight: The annual ‘Oscars of the drinks industry’ – Tales of the Cocktail – is held here, and it is home to the Museum of the American Cocktail.

Steeped in history, it was founded by France as La Nouvelle-Orléans in 1718; ceded to the Spanish in 1769; briefly returned to France, and then bought by the United States from the French First Republic in 1803 in the Louisiana Purchase. It has survived more than its share of disasters, including war, famine,

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disease, crime and Hurricane Katrina.

Yet its people always overcome their challenges, which is what makes New Orleans so special. I worked there as a bartender for four years and can honestly say it is my favourite place in the world. Here are the bars and drinks that I return to time and again.

The Sazerac

In the 1830s, from his pharmacy in the French Quarter, Antoine Peychaud dispensed herbal bitters as a remedy for a host of ailments. One concoction involved mixing bitters, water, sugar, and French Brandy, which he served in a small egg-cup-shaped glass called a coquetier. Before long, numerous coffee houses around the city began serving this remedy and the Sazerac was born.

Absinthe was added at a later date and

I N T E R N AT I O N A L

S H U T TE R STO C K

SAY BOO TO A GHOST New Orleans is as famous for its food; music; architecture; history; festivals; graveyards; voodoo; vampires and ghosts as it is for its cocktails. Its supernatural activity can partly be explained by the fact that most of the city is below sea level: It's an island, with Lake Pontchartrain to the north, the Mississippi River to the east and south, and swamplands to the west. A series of levees and pumping systems prevents the city from flooding, but bodies have to be buried above ground in mausoleums, because if they were buried in the ground they would eventually float to the surface. Some of the famous graveyards resemble small villages (St. Louis Cemetery No.1 is the most famous, home to voodoo priestess Marie Laveau’s tomb among many others), and with more than four million people buried in the tombs, the dead outnumber the living by 10-1. Unsurprisingly, the city is very haunted.

The Vieux Carré, another classic New Orleans cocktail. Below: The famous St. Louis Cemetery No. 1

its evolution was nearly complete. When the American Civil War led to problems sourcing French brandy and the phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s led to it running out, it was replaced with American rye whiskey.

The Sazerac Bar in The Roosevelt Hotel is the perfect place to sip the city’s most famous cocktail today, while history buffs will enjoy The Sazerac Coffee House and Sazerac House too.

Sazerac Bar, The Roosevelt Hotel, 130 Roosevelt Way therooseveltneworleans.com

The Ramos Gin Fizz

The Roosevelt Hotel can lay claim to two of the great classics: After polishing off your Sazerac, switch to the Ramos Gin Fizz. Legendary bartender Henry Charles Ramos’s famous bar, the Stag Saloon, has long been demolished but he sold his secret recipe to the Roosevelt and they have been doing a good job of making it

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ever since. Also known as the New Orleans Fizz, the Ramos Ginn Fizz was created in 1888 as a blend of gin; lime or lemon juice; egg white; sugar; cream; orange flower water, and soda water.

During one Mardi Gras, Henry Ramos had to employ 30 ‘shaker boys’ in his bar to keep up with demand for his Gin Fizz.

Sazerac Bar, The Roosevelt Hotel, as before

The Vieux Carré

This is my favourite New Orleans cocktail, created at the Carousel Bar & Lounge in the Monteleone Hotel. It translates to ‘Old Quarter’ and is a mix of rye whiskey, cognac and vermouth. The bar is absolutely stunning and a must-see, and I would also recommend staying at the hotel – which I should mention is also famous for being haunted! See box above.

Carousel Bar & Lounge at Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal Street hotelmonteleone.com

The Grasshopper

This sweet, mint-flavoured after-dinner drink was invented in 1918 at Tujague’s Restaurant by its owner, Philip Guichet.

Containing crème de menthe, crème de cacao, and cream, the cocktail was incredibly popular in the Deep South during the 1950s and 60s, but has since faded in popularity. The bar at Tujague’s certainly deserves a visit – not only for the Grasshopper but for the authentic

I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Brennan's Restaurant, founded in 1946, is the home of the Brandy Milk Punch – which is even served for breakfast

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Cajun food menu, which includes a traditional five-course table d’hÔte.

Tujague’s Restaurant, 823 Decatur Street tujaguesrestaurant.com

Left: The Brandy Milk Punch, invented at Brennan's. Inset: Pat O'Brien's – home of The Hurricane. Below: Inside Arnaud's. Bottom left: An Absinthe Frappé

The Hurricane

Pat O’Brien’s bar is the ultimate tourist trap, but I recommend it as it’s great fun!

It’s the home of the original Hurricane, but produces the most disappointing house cocktail of all the famous bars. The bartendes even use a powdered “Hurricane mix” to make it and the result is far too sweet and unbalanced.

The Hurricane cocktail originated in the 1940s and consists of three different styles of rum plus a mixture of juices, served over ice in a urricane glass. It has fluctuated in popularity ever since, but its alma mater is definitely worth a visit for its three bars, courtyard, and staff, who always provide excellent friendly service.

Pat O’Brien’s, 718 St Peter Street patobriens.com

The Brandy Milk Punch

If I had a heavy night, the next day I would go to Brennan’s Restaurant for breakfast and a Brandy Milk Punch – my favourite tonic to set up the day. It was invented in the 1940s and is a mix of brandy, milk, cream, vanilla syrup, and a nutmeg garnish. It is truly delicious. The restaurant itself is absolutely stunning inside and the food is top-notch.

Brennan’s Restaurant, 417 Royal Street brennansneworleans.com

Absinthe Frappé

S H U T TE R STOC K

Jean Lafitte’s Old Absinthe House is a famous tavern that dates back to 1807 and feels like a dive bar until you look at the walls and piece together its historical significance. Similarly, the Absinthe Frappé has definitely fallen into the ‘forgotten classic’ category, with its 1874 recipe calling for absinthe; anisette;

ARNAUD’S IS A WONDERFUL PLACE TO BE TRANSPORTED TO ANOTHER AGE BY HISTORIC DECOR sugar; water and soda water. While the rest of the drinks menu does not push any boundaries, Jean Lafitte’s is a good, fun Bourbon Street party bar.

Jean Lafitte’s Old Absinthe House, 240 Bourbon Street ruebourbon.com

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The French 75

The French 75 is certainly not a classic New Orleans cocktail, but it feels like it should be. Arnaud’s Bar – part of, but separate from, the famous Arnaud’s Restaurant – has never claimed to have invented the cocktail, but it has certainly played a huge role in popularising it.

Arnaud’s is a wonderful place to sit, drink and be transported to another age by the historic decor. It’s a great place to enjoy a cigar, too. The fine-dining French restaurant next door is one of the most famous in the city and dates back to 1918.

It is also one of the most haunted places in the French Quarter!

Arnaud’s, 813 Bienville Street arnaudsrestaurant.com

PARTING SHOT

THE FINE ART OF DRINKING The Tom Collins has its portrait painted – in all its sweet and sour, palate-pleasing glory

There’s so much to love about Cocktails, A Still Life – 60 Spirited Paintings & Recipes.

There are the drinks, of course, and then the history behind each recipe – not too dry, not too nerdy – just enough to know what’s what. There’s also plenty of insight into drinks categories, occasions and ingredients. But the real draw is Todd M. Casey’s 60 mesmerising oil paintings.

Tom Collins 50ml London Dry or Old Tom gin 12.5ml freshly squeezed lemon juice 12.5ml simple syrup Club soda Lemon wedge, to garnish Method: Pour the gin, lemon juice and simple syrup into a shaker with ice. Shake well and strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top with Club soda and garnish with a lemon wedge.

Cocktails, A Still Life: 60 Spirited Paintings & Recipes, by Christine Sismondo & James Waller; art by Todd M. Casey (Running Press, £16.99)

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Straight from Colombia’s exuberant Carribean coast, La Hechicera is a naturally unadulterated Extra Anejo rum with a promise: From barrel to bottle, nothing added in between.

Enjoy Responsibly | BeDrinkAware.co.uk