The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 44 Spring 2023

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

ISSN 2052-059X

Celebrating 60 years as a bartender

Keeping up with Peter Dorelli, still shaking things up in the bar world at 82

Size is everything

From the dinkiest three-seaters to crowdpleasing 300+ capacity bars, we’ve got your every mood covered

Playing by numbers

Lifting the lid on the figures that count: how to mind your ABVs

ABVs, anniversaries, age statements, percentages, small bars and high volume…

THIS IS

OUR SELECT SIX SERVES

Featuring the No.1 Negroni, straight up

Me and words, yes. Numbers? Not so much. The drinks industry, on the other hand, is obsessed with them. Some of that – like the boiling point of alcohol, or indeed, its strength – is down to necessity, of course. But beyond that, it’s all rather random. And you know us, we love a bit of random! With that in mind, welcome to the Numbers issue. And while I may not be particularly numerically literate, I must admit, these types of figures really rock my boat.

Inside we look at some of the many places where numbers appear in the world of drinks, from the ins and outs of ABVs, to the validity of age statement and non-age statement spirits. That’s the literal side of things. We also go for measurements and size, as in products and venue capacity, taking in bijoux three-seaters, crowd-pleasing, high-volume set-ups and everything in between.

There’s also music. Or more specifically, bpms and the vital role they play in getting the mood in a bar just-so. We also pay homage to one of the most venerable talents in hospitality, the one, the only Mr Peter Dorelli, celebrating 60 years as a bartender. Now if that isn’t a number worth shouting about, we don’t know what is.

MS S

hello cocktail lover!

Numbers, they’re fascinating aren’t they? Well they are to me. Sort of… At school maths certainly wasn’t my strong point. Far from it. Over the years, however, I’ve grown to rather appreciate the beauty of numbers. Stats, percentages, dates… they all help me put things into perspective, turning something which feels a bit abstract into something with a clear context.

So I’m especially excited to share with you our Numbers issue. And in the drinks world, figures in many forms play a big part.

Jack Sotti takes us through his personal bartending evolution of the various ways in which he’s prepared the classic Old Fashioned over the years, from the beginning of his career, aged 18, up until the present day at a somewhat more experienced 30-something.

This issue’s photographic feature also takes inspiration from figures. It’s not a top 10 or indeed any other kind of list. Instead, it’s purely personal as we highlight six of our absolute most favourite cocktails – each a total number one, for ingredient or occasion, as far as we’re concerned.

As for ordering a cocktail or two, we’re rounding up extraordinary destination bars in Miami, Mexico, Venice and London.

And there’s plenty more besides. All adding up to 68 packed pages of cocktail-loving goodness! MR

Size

From

Drink

Tuning

Issue 44 Spring 2023

Editors Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen

Creative director Scott Bentley – Bentley Creative

Copy editing Laura Hill

Cover photography Gary Smith

Contributors

Dan Berger, Priyanka Blah, Troels Knudsen, Jack Sotti, Alex Wolpert, Claire Warner, Yael Weisberg

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact:

(+44) 020 7242 2546

mail@thecocktaillovers.com

60

Mains & Martinis

Counting the calories at The Aubrey, feeling elegant at 45 Jermyn St and taking in the views from the 52nd floor at G ŏng at The Shard

62 The magic of Venice

Heading to Venice any time soon? We’ve got five fab bars to add to your must-visit list

66 A menu launch

to remember

How Sexy Fish made the world sit up and take notice of their new menu

Find us: TheCocktailLovers.com @cocktaillovers meet.thecocktaillovers @thecocktaillovers

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information.

The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is printed in the UK by Stephens & George.

The Cocktail Lovers ISSN 2052-059X

© 2023. Published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. London, UK

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

PRIYANKA BLAH

Size matters: page 38

Priyanka Blah (fondly known as Blah), is the founder of popular cocktail and spirits website, The Dram Attic, a platform that shines a spotlight on the movers and shakers of the beverage world, highlighting the best drinking experiences across the globe. Based in India, she is a regular juror at international spirits competitions and is considered one of the most relevant voices championing the South Asian bar industry.

In this issue: Priyanka takes us to her favourite bars around the world for every size, mood and occasion.

YAEL WEISBERG

The age debate: page 30

Born in New York and based in Amsterdam, Yael Weisberg is a self-confessed professional nerd. In her role as a strategist, she works across premium spirits, consumer goods and travel sectors to produce fresh insights and inspiring content. She also delivers research and insights alongside memorable campaign concepts that make people smile.

In this issue: Yael draws on her other passion, writing about spirits as she argues the case for age statements on spirits, making the perfect sparring partner for Alex…

ALEX WOLPERT

The age debate: page 31

A former bartender, Alex Wolpert is the managing director and founder of the East London Liquor Company. Launched in 2014, his much lauded business includes a distillery, bar and restaurant situated in the heart of London’s old spirits district. He is also director at The English Whisky Guild and Founding Committee Member at The Drinks Trust.

In this issue: Alex stands up against Yael – and defends the premise behind his products – as he puts forward his argument for non-age statement spirits.

CLAIRE WARNER

Playing by numbers: page 34

Claire Warner has worked in the drinks industry for over 20 years, and throughout that time has worn many hats –award-winning bartender, ambassador, consultant, writer and spirits judge, as well as brand and spirit innovator. A tireless advocate for better health and wellness within the hospitality industry, Claire created the progressive ‘Drink, Eat, Live’ platform in 2011.

In this issue: It’s not easy to tackle the minefield that is the hows and whys, dos and don'ts of ABVs but Claire breaks the numbers down.

APERItiVO

Opening up the palate for the spirited stories ahead…

PAGE 10

THREE CHEERS

Raising our glasses to three great bars around the world celebrating their 10th anniversaries this year

PAGE 14

FIVE WAYS WITH STRAWBERRIES

Blend them, dehydrate them, bake them, infuse them, steep them – we show you how

PAGE 16

SIX QUESTIONS FOR ADAM HANDLING

The award-winning chef on his love of cocktails and his book Perfect, Three Cherries

PAGE 13

THINGS WE LOVE

Why Polyamorous, a recently opened naughty but nice shop in Athens, is seriously rocking our boat

PAGE 9

MIAMI –SWEET LIBERTY…

Where they are always Pursuing Happiness

The DRINK

One Sip Martini

See this? It’s a thing of pure beauty and joy. Tiny but mighty, the One Sip Martini is 26ml of liquid perfection – vodka, vermouth di Torino and fino sherry served in a frozen shot glass. And here’s the best bit: a juicy gordal olive stuffed with gorgonzola as a reward at the end. Bliss! Find it at Tayēr + Elementary. tayer-elementary.com

DANTE’S HIFI+

If it’s banging tunes you’re after, you’re in the wrong place. Inspired by the listening bars in Japan, Dante's HiFi+ is a 50-seater space that's home to some 8,500 records from music director Rich Medina’s personal collection – all of which get maximum respect played by a roster of top-notch DJs on an all-analogue sound system. Drinks are served in vintage glassware, perfectly in keeping with the lo-fi setting. Sip on a Japanese-style HiBall. danteshifi.com

BROKEN SHAKER

There’s a real art to getting the hippy chic thing spot-on – a look the team at the Broken Shaker do so well. Seemingly effortless but oh-so fabulous, the award-winning bar is set in the backyard of the Freehand hotel and is very much an outdoor oasis with cool, seasonal cocktails thrown in. Chill out by the pool or relax in one of the mismatched chairs dotted around the garden – wherever you choose to be, feel-good vibes are guaranteed. brokenshaker.com

CAFE LA TROVA

We defy anyone not to be seduced by Cafe La Trova. Even if your body doesn’t sway along to the live music, or the dapper team behind the bar don’t make you smile (who even are you?), you’re bound to fall for the atmosphere. This is 1940s-1950s Cuba, when dinner, dancing and delicious drinks were part of a glamorous package. They’re all on the menu at this authentic Cuban saloon, where cocktails are served with pride by the mesmerising cantineros. Don’t leave without trying a Daiquiri or seeing the bar team show off their choreographed dance moves. cafelatrova.com

WHERE THEY’RE DRINKING IN…

MiAMI

Miami-bound? Here are five of the top bars well worth making a beeline for

SWEET LIBERTY

There’s a saying coined by Sweet Liberty former creative beverage director, the late, much-respected John Lermayer that’s still very much at the heart and soul of this revered hotspot: Pursue Happiness. It’s there in the bones of the place and if for some bizarre reason you don’t feel it in the ultra-relaxed, super-friendly vibe, the words are writ large in glorious pink neon. The philosophy also makes its way into the cocktails, now under the creative direction of Naren Young. Our picks include John’s Strawberry Daiquiri and a contender for our favourite Martini EVER, The Spaniard. mysweetliberty.com

MEDIUM COOL

Don’t you just love the name: Medium Cool? Not super cool, or even cool – just a very understated, tonguein-cheek ‘medium cool’, just like the movie. The latest venture from the Sweet Liberty crew had just opened when we visited but it already felt bedded in. Bop along to the feel-good, unashamedly poppy soundtrack as you sip on the fabulous drinks. Everyone’s a winner but we loved the Piña Colada Daiquiri, House Martini and clever range of Shots For The People – mini cocktails created for shooting. @mediumcoolmiami

COCKTAIL HACK #4

Leo Robitschek, Vice President of Food & Beverage for Sydell Group & Bar Programmes at NoMad

“My favourite cocktail hack is what I call a split base. For any sour, take your favourite ingredient –bourbon, rum or gin – and instead of using the full pour, cut it in half and substitute it out with either fino or amontillado sherry, or even vermouth. Depending on the recipe, I usually use a little less citrus with the sherries and less sugar with the vermouth. Split bases create a more complex drink and save you lots of money with your base ingredients.”

For more cocktail hacks from industry experts, tune into The Cocktail Lovers podcast via the QR code below

book club

THREE CHEERS!

Give it up for The Dead Rabbit in New York, Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood in London and La Factoria in Puerto Rico – three fabulous bars marking their 10th anniversaries this year. Also celebrating 10 years of innovation: the Mr Lyan team in London.

Ten Cocktails: The Art of Convivial Drinking

By Alice Lascelles

If anyone can bring the stories behind cocktails to life, Lascelles can. Here she devotes an entire chapter to a classic, be it a Gin & Tonic, Martini or Corpse Reviver No. 2, and revels in the stories behind it. There are recipes too, one classic and three variations, plus tips on getting your drinks just-so.

101 Cocktails to Try Before You Die

By François Monti

From a Champagne-charged

Air Mail to a totally tropical Zombie, this pocket-sized book packs a mighty punch. It contains all the recipes, stories and facts you need to be the boss of your home bar. Flip to the back of the book for one of the best bits – an invaluable index of cocktails by spirit.

Three Ingredient

Cocktails: 60 Drinks

Made in Minutes

By Kate Calder

Ten three-ingredient recipes for six drinks categories (vodka, gin, rum, tequila, whisky and sparkling). Some more familiar, others not. Take gin for example: as well as the Gimlet and Negroni, recipes include Summer Stroll and Ice ’n’ Spicy. Each chapter includes recipes for perfectly matched snacks.

Above: The teams at Scarfes Bar and below, The Dead Rabbit

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CREATE A STIR!

26TH APRIL

Stop Food Waste

FIVE

Zero Waste Banana Peel Daiquiri

50ml Discarded Banana Peel Rum

25ml lime juice

15ml banana peel syrup*

Method: Add all the ingredients to a shaker with ice; shake hard until chilled. Double strain into a Coupe glass. *To make banana peel syrup, place banana peels in a sealable tub, add an equal weight of caster sugar, then cover and leave for 24-36 hours. Strain syrup and use.

20TH MAY

World Whisky Day Whisky Smash

5 large mint leaves

¼ lemon, sliced into 2 wedges

60ml whisky

2 tbsp simple syrup or maple syrup

Soda water (optional)

Method: Place the mint leaves in a cocktail shaker. Muddle to extract flavour, then add the lemon wedges and muddle again. Add the whisky and syrup and fill the shaker with ice. Shake until cold and strain into a glass over crushed ice. Add a splash of soda if desired.

JUNE

Pride Month Rainbow Warrior

15ml grenadine

45ml Absolut (Pride Vodka)

60ml pineapple juice

22ml fresh lemon juice

15ml blue curaçao

15ml water

Pineapple and desired fruit, to garnish

Method: Pour the grenadine into a Hurricane or pint glass, then fill twothirds with crushed ice. Combine the vodka and juices in a cocktail shaker; add ice cubes, shake vigorously and strain into the glass. Fill the glass with more crushed ice. In an empty shaker, combine the blue curaçao and water, then slowly pour over the crushed ice. Garnish with pineapple and extra fruit.

The people

Charles Maxwell

As far as distillers go, Charles Maxwell is the daddy, the don, the numero uno. And he has the stats to prove it. As the 11th generation of a family that’s been producing gin in London since 1681, his company Thames Distillers creates, distils and bottles more than 60 different brands: The London No. 1, 6 O’Clock, Four Corners and Portobello Road No. 171 among them. The numbers continue, or should we say start with their stock gin recipes: F1, F3 and F4. For more gins with numbers, see page 55.

THINGS WE LOVE

Another reason to love Athens, already one of our favourite drinks capitals in the world: let’s hear it for Polyamorous, a super-sexy drinks shop selling flowers, plants and – wait for it – adult toys. Conceived by drinks journalist Eleni Nikolouia and Alejandro Gkikopoulos, it’s got everything to get your weekend started right. @polyamorous.athens

FIVE WAYS WITH strawberries

with silicone baking mats. Blend all the ingredients together until smooth; strain to remove the seeds, if desired. Divide the mixture between the trays, spreading out with a spatula to create an even layer. Bake for 3 hours or until the leather is no longer sticky; rotate the trays 180 degrees halfway through, swapping shelves at the same time. Transfer the leather to a board to slice as desired, then wrap in parchment or wax paper and store in an airtight container. Use to garnish (or nibble).

100g caster sugar Method

Mix the gin with the strawberries and sugar in a large bowl. Pour into a 1.5L sterilised Kilner jar. Store in the fridge and stir every two days for three weeks. Strain through coffee filters to serve.

lemon juice, then stir to combine. Bring to the boil over a mediumhigh heat, stirring frequently. Lower the heat and continue boiling gently until the mixture thickens (about 45 minutes). If it’s too thin, skim off a little of the excess liquid. The jam is set when the mixture runs together and ‘sheets’ off a cold metal spoon. Ladle into sterilised jars and use to flavour cocktails.

SIX QUESTIONS

FOR ADAM HANDLING

Adam Handling may be one of the busiest chefs on the circuit but he’s a cocktail lover at heart. And he’s written his first cocktail book to prove it. It’s part of a trilogy that encompasses all of his passions: food, drinks and sustainability, which can be found and appreciated at his two amazing bars, Eve in London and Ugly Butterfly in Cornwall.

ONE What’s the story behind Perfect, Three Cherries?

I wanted to create a cocktail book where a non-bartender could get information about the history behind the drinks, learn the basic ‘mother’ cocktails and their modern and zero waste interpretations. I wanted it to be jam-packed full of information, more than anything out there. It was quite selfish really – it’s what I would have wanted to read when I was learning about cocktails.

TWO It’s part of a trilogy. How did that come about?

The original idea was to have two books: the cocktail book, which was going to be a diary, hence the shape and way that it looks, and the Frog book about my vision for food, and they were going to be wrapped together. But when I was writing, Frog got up to 1,000 pages and my publisher said no one would buy it because it weighed eight kilos! So I came up with the idea of splitting them up and going into even more depth on the foraging side and it became three books.

THREE As a chef, how did you find writing a cocktail book? It was intense. In total, the whole thing took me about six years to write. I ripped it up about 10 times because I wasn’t happy with it. The reason? I knew that I might get some stick writing a cocktail book because I’m a chef. But the truth is, I’m just a massive fan of bars. In fact, my dream was if I didn’t have a restaurant I would open a bar and the fact that I get to do the two together is really exciting.

four

Are you proud of the book now?

I am. What makes me the proudest is that Ago Perrone, Erik Lorincz and some of my other drinks heroes have written a foreword in it. I’m always in their bars, because I admire them so much and want to try everything they do. When they said they would like to foreword it, it was the pinnacle of my ‘oh my god, I’ve never been so happy’ moments. They are the biggest, most respected names in the industry and that means a lot to me.

five Keeping with the ‘three’ theme, what are your three favourite recipes in the book?

Perfect, Three Cherries – it’s my favourite cocktail. It’s a Perfect Manhattan made with cherry-infused bourbon, cherry stone sweet vermouth, cherry blossom dry vermouth and three cherries to garnish. Then Cheeky Monkey, using offcuts of fudge blended through whisky and a little touch of Discarded Banana Rum. Lastly, Endeavour, a Piña Colada cooked to order using liquid nitrogen. There’s zero dilution, zero ice crystals and it looks sexy as hell.

six

The book includes stories behind the classic cocktails. What’s your favourite story behind a classic?

The first time I met Salvatore Calabrese, I was in awe. It was at an event – he was doing drinks, I was on food. He was so friendly and warm and invited me to his bar. Having a Breakfast Martini made by him blew the situation of what a classic cocktail is all about – being made by the person who created it. That was special.

DID YOU KNOW?

According to the Bacardí Consumer Survey 2022, the cocktails that consumers most frequently order in bars include the Mojito (36%), Margarita (34%) and Gin & Tonic (32%).

Source: Bacardí Cocktail Trends Report 2022

The PLACE

Three Sheets

Bar High Five (Tokyo), Lab 22 (Cardiff), Backdoor 43 (Milan), Nine Lives (London), Cloud 23 (Manchester) – there are countless bars that are all about the numbers. However, we’re singling out Three Sheets in London. Why? It’s everything a neighbourhood bar should be. Owned by two brothers, Max and Noel Venning, it’s not too big, not too small, cool but inclusive and the drinks, divided into one, two and three sheets (low, middling and punchy respectively in the ABV and complexity department), are always bang on point. threesheets-bar.com

HARVEY NICHOLS NAUGHTY NIBBLES

We’re suckers for straws. Not the plastic variety, obvs. We’re talking about the flaky, buttery, cheesy kind; the ones that make perfect partners for cocktails. Naughty Nibbles Emmental Straws and Emmental & Onion Straws are currently amusing our bouches. Decadent, delightful, delicious. Try them and thank us later. harveynichols.com

Notable Nibbles

eleven reasons (in numbers)

…to be a cocktail lover right now

…to be a cocktail lover right now

TWO

14 pre-measured spice mixes from French-brand Délices Métisses designed for anyone to make flavoured rum at home.

delicesmetisses.com

6: the figure cited in Empirical Spirits latest flavour experiment, Symphony 6. What does it taste like? Think bright, think floral, think citrussy, with some serious attitude. empirical.co

42 characters captured in the cool, clever and very collectible Macbeth collection. Bought to life by Livingstone and Elixir Distillers, with illustrations by Quentin Blake and character notes by whisky writer Dave Broom, it’s got ‘encore’ written all over it. Macbeth Act One, available now.

thewhiskyexchange.com

60 YEARS, 25 FILMS, 1 inimitable Bond: To celebrate? Enter The Macallan with a series of six scenestealing bottles, each inspired by a decade in the life and exciting times of 007. But be warned, they’re selling fast… themacallan.com

FOUR

1957: the year Richard Mason’s love story The World of Suzie Wong, set in 1950s Hong Kong was published. Lucy Wong, the new offering from The Breakfast Group, is Suzie’s daughter, imagined as a glamorous London venue. Expect sumptuous Chinese interior, delicious dim sum and classic cocktails with an Asian twist, created by Dré Masso. lucywong.co.uk

7 sides of contrasting emotions, expressed on the Duality menu, created by Guilia Cuccurrollo and Lorenza Pezzetta at artesian-bar.com

330+ craft beer recipes built around a system of digits and brought to life by the bright minds at Brew

By Numbers. bbno.co

30ml of fabulousness housed in a flacon of Spiritcask, the intoxicating new scent devised to recreate the oak casks used to give whisky its personality. Less alcoholic, more aromatic, it’s what the best dressed necks are wearing. jorumstudio.com

13: the sign above the door at the latest venue bringing hedonistic vibes to London’s Denmark Street. Channelling the musical heritage of the neighbourhood, it hints at the debauch whilst being decidedly lush and extremely decadent. thirteenLDN.com

10 signature drinks on the recently launched cocktail menu at SubAstor in Sao Paolo. Called Six Biomes of Brazil, it’s more than a numbers game – it’s an ode to the flavours and terrestrial biomes of its regions. subastor.co.br

5: the total of bold and bright new ways to rethink schnapps, courtesy of flavarspirit.com

PODCAST THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

Join us as we share what we’re drinking, where we’re going, products we’re trying, the drinks books we’re reading and all manner of cocktail-loving goodness. Plus, we catch up with our favourite movers and shakers in the cocktail world.

SUBSCRIBE NOW!

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BETH CROCKATT

HTSEAT IN THE

Mark Sansom, Director of Content at The World’s 50 Best

Can you give us a quick history of The World’s 50 Best empire and where 50 Best Bars fits into the picture?

We launched The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2002. It started as a feature idea in Restaurant magazine, which was published by William Reed [the company still behind the 50 Best today]. The then editor put together a panel of experts, asked them for a list of their favourite restaurants, and it took off from there.

The World’s 50 Best Bars launched in 2009; the first ceremony was held in London in 2012. It’s grown massively in stature year on year, and last year we took the event outside London for the first time to Barcelona and it was hugely successful. We’ve also just launched The World’s 50 Best Hotels, which we’re really excited about. The first list will be announced in September.

Mainstream interest in 50 Best Restaurants is one thing, but how does 50 Best Bars compare?

Being seven years more mature, 50 Best Restaurants without doubt has a bigger footprint, though the growth of 50 Best Bars in recent years is insane. A study by media monitoring agency Cision last year told us that 50 Best Bars has 76% of the market share of voice in global bars and drinks media.

Why 50?

Why not?! It’s a manageable number –but we’re always looking to celebrate as many venues as possible. While there can only be the 50 Best, the long-list of bars ranked 51-100 is a breeding ground for amazing bars in lesser-known cities. Recently we’ve seen entries from Poland, Slovakia, Kenya, Ecuador and Puerto Rico, and it’s great to be able to highlight these regions.

As well as The World’s 50 Best Bars there are two regional lists. Tell us about them…

We introduced Asia’s 50 Best Bars in 2016 and North America’s 50 Best Bars in 2022 – essentially to shine a spotlight on a greater number of venues in these brilliant bar scenes. The way the Asian community has taken to it is incredible. In my opinion it’s the most innovative segment of the bar world and I’ve no doubt we will see a World’s Best Bar from Asia.

North America is the original craft cocktail heartland and we’d been planning to launch there for a long time. In the wake of Covid, we decided to just get on with it to try and drive more footfall into venues. The launch event in New York was superb and this year we’re taking the show to Mexico.

Are the lists primarily for consumers or the bars?

Our first thought is always to the consumer. Our lists are designed to inspire people to go to brilliant bars and to show how good hospitality experiences can be. However, we love how the lists inspire bars to keep pushing the envelope in terms of what is possible in cocktails, design and the whole drinking experience. Bartenders love a bit of competition and if our lists help inspire them to develop new ideas then that’s excellent.

Bars that have got to the top or near the top report extra zeros on balance sheets and massively increased footfall. This allows them to expand and explore new concepts. A recent example is Paradiso in Barcelona (left). The day after it was named No.1 on the list last year, the team sent me a video of the queue snaking hundreds of yards around the block. They’ve also had to increase

their opening hours and hire more staff, which can only be a good thing.

What’s the voting process?

We divide the world into 28 regions, each headed by an Academy Chair who selects voters from their region in a rough split of 50% bartenders and bar owners; 30% drinks journalists and educators; and 20% cocktail aficionados. The voting panel totalled 650 last year and we grow it gradually year on year. Each voter is asked to name their seven best bar experiences of the past 18 months. We compute the votes, then hand them over to Deloitte to adjudicate the results.

How many of the bars on this year’s list have you been to?

This is the first time I’ve counted! I’ve been to 29 of the 50. A big blind spot for me is Mexico and Latin America, but I’m heading out there to put this right.

For you personally, what three things make a great bar?

For me it’s all about the hospitality. The most important moment is how you’re made to feel when you walk into a bar –that first contact point which makes you feel acknowledged and welcome. I’m also really into nice glassware: simple, clean lines and fine stems do it for me. Playlists are also important – they can be anything as long as they suit the time of day and vibe of the space.

Two bars worth travelling for?

I’d rather not single out any bars, but Copenhagen and Lima are two cocktail cities I really want to explore.

One to watch?

Hong Kong is going to huge in the next few years.

Getting the measure

All the kit you need to take the guesswork out of getting your measures down pat

1. Best for basics

An essential piece of kit when it comes to getting your measures spot-on. Finlay Gold Measuring Spoons, £8, rowenhomes.com

2. Best for dexterity

Super stylish and ever-so practical – The Tending Box Quadri Combo Jigger, £40, uk.alessi.com

3. Best for minding your units

Keep track of your alcohol consumption and get to grips with ABVs with a handy Alcohol Unit and Calorie Counter, 70p, resources.drinkaware.co.uk

4. Best for bitters

Inspired by a classic 1930s design, this bitters bottle is just the ticket when a recipe calls for dashes. Bitters Bottle, £19.25, cocktailkingdom.co.uk

Best for fancy drinks

How to look cool when you don’t know the specs? Splash out on the uber-swanky Tell Me How Cocktail Shaker, £10,500, asprey.com

Best for wine buffs

Serve your wine at the optimum drinking temperature by dressing bottles with a Wine Bracelet Thermometer, £10.99, cellardine.co.uk

Best for home brews

Keep tabs on the temperature of hot and cold brews. Superfast Thermapen ONE Digital Thermapen, £67, souschef.co.uk

8. Best for cocktail chefs

Every kitchen needs one of these: MasterClass Electronic Dual Dry & Liquid Platform Scales, £29.99, cookserveenjoy.com

9. Best for small doses

For getting your measures right at one end and stirring your drinks at the other, a bar spoon is an essential piece of kit for cocktail lovers at every level. Drop Stainless Steel Bar Spoon, from £8, urbanbar.com

10. Best for batching

Making cocktails for a crowd? Use this! Five-piece MasterClass Smart Space Measuring Spoon, Cup and Jug Set, £15.99, cookserveenjoy.com

NOT THE SUM OF ITS PARTS

There are many reasons we love Seventy One gin. The way it marries craftsmanship and lifestyle. How it’s been created through the art of the perfumer. The choice of botanicals, the selection of casks and 71 nights of mellowing rest. Not to mention the Queen of the Night. Ultimately, though, we love it because it’s so much more than the sum of its parts.

Seventy One gin is born of craftsmanship and realised in lifestyle. Meticulously created using the techniques of perfumery, the science of distillation and the art of blending – it’s a refined balancing of the classical with the contemporary.

Different botanical absolutes are brought together, with only the finest cuts selected, and allowed to rest for 71 nights in oak casks.

Carefully chosen, these casks include mediumtoasted virgin European oak with warm notes of vanillin, almond and wood smoke; ex-Pedro Ximénez sherry casks; a mix of European and American oak, bringing sweetly aromatic spice notes and dark chocolate accents; and ex-cognac casks to add deep, rich character with a hint of rancio, accented by notes of pear and vanilla.

Resting within them, a gradual softening and subtle refinement comes to the spirit. And, at last, the casks release their contents to be skilfully blended.

The final touch? The exceptionally rare flower from the Queen of the Night cactus. Blooming just once a year, and only at night, its extraordinary flowers wilt before dawn.

This addition is the last step in the creation of a singular spirit. The spirit of the night.

There’s something else we love too – the exquisite bottle. Elegantly understated, its contents entice with a glowing golden hue.

To truly appreciate Seventy One we serve it simply and sensually over ice to fully experience the bright and exhilarating aromas of crushed juniper, wild pine and a burst of fresh citrus, and the lingering rich, warm, smooth finish. Or, for total indulgence, we order the seductive Golden Martini.

But, as we say, Seventy One is more than the sum of its parts. It is quite simply the Eau de Nuit.

Seventy One gin is available at The Connaught Bar, The Savoy, Annabel’s, Chiltern Firehouse, Hedonism Wines, Selfridges and other exclusive bars and stores who share a devotion to quality and craftsmanship.

Golden Martini

60ml Seventy One gin

10ml Fino sherry

10ml 1757 Vermouth di Torino Rosso

5ml Hoja santa and saffron syrup*

Method: Stir all ingredients over ice, strain into a chilled Martini glass and garnish with a grapefruit twist.

*Blitz 750ml sugar syrup and 2g hoja santa, then cook at 60°C for 30 minutes. Pour into a container, add 0.2g saffron, allow to cool, then strain into a bottle.

Created for Seventy One by The Connaught Bar

seventyonegin.com

Please enjoy Seventy One responsibly

Peter Dorelli travelled from his native Rome to the UK in the 1950s, eventually making it his home and taking up the celebrated position of head bartender at the American Bar at The Savoy in 1984. Since retiring from the bar in 2003, he has rarely stopped

working and is one of the most respected figures in the cocktail world. Now aged 82, he’s enjoying life as a bartender more than ever. We joined him recently to talk about his illustrious career.

Peter, take us back to the beginning. When you first arrived in the UK, what drew you to bartending?

I came from a background of banking, which I felt uncomfortable with, so in the UK I worked in various jobs around hospitality. Back in the 1950s, hospitality was quite servile. You were considered unskilled and it was all ‘yes sir, no ma’am’. I thought, what the hell is that? Even working as a maître d’ or sommelier it was the same. Then I found myself behind the bar and all of a sudden I could be me. I developed my style and could be creative. Best of all I could communicate with guests on the same level. I formed friendships with them and because I was in charge, I could create magical moments. Big bar or small bar, it was all about being with the people.

And here you are in 2023 celebrating 60 years as a bartender. What has sustained your passion for so long?

I just love young people. I look at what young bartenders are doing today and

they’re amazing. Their energy, their creativity, their imagination. The way they craft their cocktails, their passion. To be honest, when I judge competitions I get more from them than they do from me! I feel physically recharged being around people at the top of their profession – like Marian Beke formerly at The Gibson, who is so creative, and Agostino Perrone at The Connaught, who is the perfect host.

It’s interesting that you’re inspired by this generation of bartenders but who else has had an influence on you over your career?

So many people. First, of course, Joe Gilmore. He was my boss when I first worked at the American Bar at The Savoy. As a bartender he was supreme. In fact, I would say 50-60% of my style as a bartender has come directly from him. He would take it as a personal achievement when a customer said, “Thank you Joe”. He had a real sincerity about him.

Another was Dick Bradsell. He was an amazing guy, so talented. And he was confident and clever. I often used to pick his brains. We once did a job swap – him joining me at The Savoy and me doing a shift alongside him at The Player. It was fantastic because we had great chemistry.

Top: Out and about in London; Above: Peter as featured in The Savoy Food & Drink Book

Let’s talk about retirement – or the lack of it. When you left The Savoy in 2003 you could’ve just decided to take it easy. But it feels as though you’re now working even harder…

When I left The Savoy I was 63, so still quite young. But I decided it was time to leave. I took a month off, had a holiday, which was great, and when I came back I spoke to the UKBG [United Kingdom Bartenders Guild] and suddenly it was, “Peter can you do this? Can you do that?”

Then came judging Diageo World Class, alongside great people like Salvatore Calabrese, Dale DeGroff and Gaz Regan. After that, I was suddenly judging cocktail competitions all over the world.

Then other things just started to happen. I’ve always made sure I’m around. If I don’t go out for a few weeks the social media stops. Then I go out and boom, it goes back to, “Can you do this? Can you do that?” To see is to be seen.

Clearly you still enjoy it…

Absolutely! I’m lucky, I don’t suffer from tiredness. In Rome recently I broke my record, finishing a night out at 8am. And I’m like, “Guys, let’s go and get some breakfast now.” I’m 82 but never feel it.

As anyone who has ever met you can testify, your energy is incredible, but bartending can be very demanding.

How have you stayed healthy, both physically and mentally?

I’ve always had energy but I also took up yoga and meditation, and I would play squash in the morning before going to work. And I decided that if I went on too much with a particular lifestyle I wouldn’t be able to continue. For instance, I used to be a heavy smoker but would make sure I had a non-smoking day. Or if I had a drink one day then I would drink only water the next day. I constantly adjusted my life to be better. And when things were getting stressful in the bar I would go to my room for a few minutes, concentrate on my breathing, get oxygen back into my system. I would refresh myself. Then when I went back to the bar, I was back in touch and totally in control.

Some great advice for us all there. Talking of advice, what would you say to someone who is setting out on a new pathway, bartending or otherwise? For bartenders, I would always say that the bartender is an artist at work and they should bring their passion and curiosity to create magic along their journey. In fact, passion and curiosity are essential for any career. Have these and you will shine.

There will be special events throughout the year to celebrate Peter Dorelli’s 60 years in bartending – see thecocktaillovers.com for details. To hear more from Peter, listen to our 24 February 2022 podcast interview with the great man.

LAWRENCE WATSON

I feel physically recharged being around people at the top of their profession – like Marian Beke and Agostino Perrone

Right: The early days; Below: Receiving the first Dry Martini Award 1969, presented by John Doxat

THE AGE DEBATE

Age statements on spirits, for or against? Yael Weisberg drinks writer and consultant and Alex Wolpert, distiller, state their case

There is no denying it. We are living in the golden age of nonage statement (NAS) whisky, with a seemingly endless variety of new expressions released with ever-increasing speed. From Scottish single malts to Swedish science experiments, innovations are hitting the market thick and fast. Unless you work in the field or have a lot of free time to gather whisky knowledge, it’s tricky to keep up, and that’s the problem.

The original reason for age statements on whisky was to assure the shopper of its quality, and that still holds true today. Whilst there are many excellent NAS whiskies out there, age statements help most people, who aren’t experts in the minutiae of distilling, easily navigate an increasingly crowded category. Fans of specific expressions can also branch out within the age statement range, making it easier and less risky to try something new.

Though the marketing spiel may talk about ‘breaking boundaries’ and ‘transforming the world of whisky’, the NAS boom was largely fuelled by a shortage of casks coinciding with rising demand, which is why quality levels can vary so dramatically. “When distillers produce NAS expressions, they can sometimes lose their focus on quality because there’s so much pressure to use younger spirits and produce bigger volumes,” says Monique ten

The case for age statements: Yael Weisberg

Kortenaar, head distiller at Lucas Bols and ambassador of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, with typically Dutch directness.

While she strongly believes in the power of creativity to invigorate a category steeped in tradition, Monique sees age statement whiskies, particularly those rested in cooler climates where maturation is slow and steady, playing an important role as standard bearers for consistency. Distillers are less inclined to take risks with their age statement expressions when these casks are in short supply. There’s more to lose if an age statement whisky isn’t up to par.

Even for those undaunted by the proliferation of NAS whiskies and the difficulty in gauging quality at a glance,

age statement whiskies offer one more benefit. Those numbers on the bottle could also boost the numbers in your bank statement. If you’re the sort of person who buys one to drink and one to keep, your money is best invested in an age statement expression, as they are generally more scarce and less vulnerable to the rise and fall of drinks trends. Distilleries may have to discontinue age statement expressions or change the way they make them, in reaction to cask availability. This aspect of rarity, real or potential, has created an active and relatively stable market for age statement whiskies, which are widely considered to be very safe investments.

Remember, next time you’re wading through the vast sea of NAS whiskies with fanciful names and often confusing descriptions, there is an easier way to find what you want. Just look out for that age statement, the one that nails your ideal balance of wood and spice. In an uncertain world, that number will never let you down.

“Youth is the gift of nature, but age is a work of art”

Stanisław Jerzy Lec

that yield the best results and the most interesting flavours, without harking back to what has been done in the past.

We have no fields of barley on our doorstep, so grain variety and provenance become even more important. Yeast strains and fermentation time are where we have experimented significantly. For example, saison yeasts pitched in with our day-to-day distilling yeast

The case against age statements: Alex Wolpert

When I started out as a bartender almost 20 years ago, all the whisky training focused on two things: cask and water. This narrative had been carefully finessed to pull the consumer towards a story that is both plausible and romantic: the majority of the flavour of the whisky comes from the cask, and the adjacent natural water source used in making the whisky is crucial. But is this really true?

At East London Liquor Co, we are a young whisky producer, with lots to learn and develop. In a world where brands live and die by how distinguished they are, how can we as an urban distillery with no heritage be relevant?

We are part of the new world whisky movement. A distillery making spirits with methods driven by the pursuit of flavour. I don’t come from a family of distillers, and neither do any of our production team. We experiment with processes

create some wonderfully tropical notes. This, coupled with a minimum 100-hour fermentation time, gives us something unique in our Single Malt and London Rye. We leave the ferment for a further couple of days to increase the ester content. Then we distil, usually a double pot run taking the heart cut from around 72% to around 60%. The influence of the cask is clear. The provenance of the grain and the mash bill is also clear. There is no hierarchy between the two.

In the context of being this fastidious and transparent about process, why lead with the age statement? It gives neither an insight into flavour nor provenance. Of course, the time in cask might be on the bottle for the consumer’s benefit. However, when we lead with and fetishize this, then we completely eclipse the processes that have actually been responsible for how the liquid tastes as it does.

We’ve seen the Japanese and the scotch whisky industry swerve in and out of using age statements over the past decade,

perhaps based purely on stock levels rather than a rigorous brand ethos. From a cynical perspective, one could argue that the incremental age statements used by some whisky brands are there to appeal to different budgets and occasions and therefore own a larger part of the market rather than give the consumer more choice.

As brands we have a responsibility to give

the consumer as much information as we can, to debunk old myths and be as transparent and accessible as possible. However, I don’t believe that leading with an age statement on whisky is in the consumer’s best interest. How can it be good to get this reductive and binary about a liquid that deserves so much more scrutiny and appreciation?

At East London we lead with type – rye or single malt – followed by whether it’s a single cask or peated. Age is deliberately listed on the side or back as ancillary information, with exception of our first cask for obvious reasons.

The cynics will of course say that if we had older liquid we’d promote age as an asset, as something special. But we won’t, nor do we want to. The trend of leading with age statements creates a convenient barrier to entry for new whiskies in a market that’s dominated by heritage brands.

Let’s be bold. Let’s be transparent about what we do and why we do it. Letting a number on a bottle do the heavy lifting is lazy. In fact, it’s only a fraction of the story.

Why lead with age statements? It neither gives an insight into flavour or provenance

Made with Cointreau, the Margarita is both deliciously timeless and ever-evolving

YEARS ONE CLASSIC COCKTAIL COUNTLESS VARIATIONS

THE BEGINNING

The year is 1948 and renowned Dallas socialite Margarita Sames is enjoying a holiday in Acapulco, Mexico. At one of her elegant gatherings, she has a fancy to serve the guests with a drink that’s an exquisite mix of two of her favourite spirits, Cointreau and tequila, with a dash of lime juice.

Little did she know what she’d created. A delicious drink that bears her name and is still being enjoyed around the world some 75 years later.

THE CLASSIC THAT’S ALWAYS CONTEMPORARY Creativity, from fashion to music, art to architecture, is often driven by beautiful simplicity. The Margarita is the perfect example. Just three ingredients and a little garnish.

But as with all classic cocktails, the quality of the ingredients makes the ultimate difference. When the original

THE UK WINNING MARGARITA

Fragaria

30ml Cointreau

20ml blanco tequila

15ml joven mezcal

10ml lacto fermented

strawberry

10ml coconut cream

Smoked with cherry wood

Candy floss garnish

Method: Shake ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled margarita glass which has been smoked with cherry wood. Garnish with candy floss.

Look out for the beautiful new Cointreau bottle

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

Margarita was served 75 years ago to those fortunate guests, it would have been made with the very best tequila available. Today the same holds true, with the drink calling for a premium blanco tequila. Similarly, the lime juice should be extracted from perfectly ripe fruit.

Then there’s the third ingredient. Cointreau. Created in 1885, this deceptively clear liqueur is a distillation of bitter and sweet orange peels, resulting in over 40 aromas, including lavender, black pepper, toffee, musk and anise. And recognised the world over in its distinctive bottle (beautifully reimagined in 2022).

It is the Cointreau that brings balance, depth and freshness to the Margarita, as it does to more than 300 other cocktails. And it is this simple yet classic combination of Cointreau, premium tequila and lime juice that continues to delight today.

But it also invites intriguing experimentation and beautiful evolution…

THE MARGARITA – 62 VARIATIONS AND COUNTING

With the classic recipe as its base, the Margarita has inspired countless variations. Just take a look at the Cointreau website.

Here we discover that a Margarita can change with the seasons. For spring, lengthen with some grapefruit soda; summer calls for strawberries; in autumn, replace the tequila with warming mezcal. And in winter? Serve warm with cinnamon and cloves.

This, though, is just the beginning. Feeling luxurious? Top with Champagne and garnish with a rose petal. Or add a little

coffee syrup for an Espresso Margarita. The Basil Garden Margarita takes the drink in yet another direction with the addition of a fresh herb and invigorating, sparkling apple cider. There are variations with blood orange juice, pineapple, papaya and jalapeño, ginger and mint. And even a playful version inspired by its (almost) similarly named relation, the Margherita pizza, with sun-dried tomatoes and anchovy-infused tequila. You get the idea. Served straight up in classic cocktail style, on the rocks, refreshingly long or, of course, frozen… the Margarita, with Cointreau at its heart, is limited only by imagination.

THE COINTREAU MARGARITA CHALLENGE

More extraordinary twists on the recipe can be discovered at the Cointreau Margarita Challenge, now in its third year. Bartenders around the world have been busy conjuring up their new interpretations of the Margarita. In one tempting example, the UK winner Alex Holmes, from Tabula Rasa in Leeds, created Fragaria, which includes lacto fermented strawberry and coconut cream. And soon the global winning recipe will be revealed, adding yet another Cointreauinspired Margarita to the family.

JOIN IN THE CELEBRATION

However you like your Margarita, join us in raising a glass on the 75th anniversary of this extraordinary Cointreau-inspired cocktail!

For full details of all the Cointreau Margarita variations see cointreau.com

KEEP IT CLASSIC

Classic Margarita

30ml Cointreau L’Unique 50ml blanco tequila

20ml fresh lime juice

Lime wheel garnish

Method: Shake all the ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled Margarita glass rimmed with salt. Garnish with a lime wheel.

Scan the QR code to see Alfred Cointreau, part of the sixth generation of the Cointreau family, make a perfect Classic Margarita

ALEX HOLMES MARGARITA –KRIS HUMPHREYS

Claire Warner gets serious about the numbers that matter in drinks: it's all about the ABVs

When it comes to food and drink, numbers are everywhere. As measurements in recipes, drink ratios, temperatures and, whether you love it or loathe it, as the ‘helpful’ calorie content of a sandwich or Sunday lunch. Regardless of how you feel about the latter, numbers are mostly intended to be helpful, useful or instructive. They provide information and – in the case of calories – give us greater control over what we choose to consume.

But, when it comes to how much alcohol we do or don’t want to consume, things can get a little hazy. Do you want double proof, overproof, barrel strength, low ABV, ultra-low, zero proof, nonalcoholic, alcohol free or perhaps just a standard drink? But what about there being ‘no safe limit’, ‘drinking less but better’, ‘knowing your limit’, ‘drinking mindfully’ and being ‘drink aware’? Suddenly, you can begin to understand why so many of us find it tricky to navigate the numbers and figure out which measurements really matter.

Knowing how much alcohol is in a drink is important because this information allows us to measure and moderate our alcohol consumption. For any drink containing alcohol, its ABV – or alcohol by volume – must be clearly displayed on the label or bottle of the beverage. This information is so important that even drinks that don’t

contain any alcohol will advertise their ABV, even if it’s 0% or less alcohol than you might find in a ripe banana or loaf of bread!

So, what is ABV and how does it relate to your drinks?

ABV is a measure of how much alcohol is contained in a beverage and expressed as a percentage. For example, a beer with an ABV of 5% contains 5% alcohol by volume. In comparison, a vodka with 40% ABV contains more alcohol by volume and is therefore much stronger than a 5% ABV beer.

Historically, ABV can be traced back to the early days of alcohol production where various unstandardised methods were used to determine the alcoholic strength of drinks. Different regions used different approaches, and as alcohol production and the trading of alcohol became more widespread, it became necessary to have a standardised method of measuring alcohol content, mainly so that tax was paid according to the level of alcohol within said beverage.

Perhaps one of the earliest methods was the proof system, which was first used in England in the 16th century. This method was based on the principle that if a gunpowder-soaked pellet could ignite when placed in a sample of alcohol, then this was ‘proof’ that the liquid contained a certain amount of alcohol.

As you can imagine this system was not very precise, and it was eventually replaced by what we now call the ABV

system. This is also called the Gay Lussac or GL system, named after the French chemist and physicist Joseph Louis Gay-Lussac (1778-1850) who is known for his work on alcohol-water mixtures. Gay-Lussac devised a way of measuring the quantity of alcohol by volume for the French wine industry – a method that was then extended to other French spirits such as brandy, cognac and armagnac. Its precision led to it being adopted by many countries, with the exception of the United States where the term ‘proof’ remained in use. In 1848, 50% ABV was chosen as a baseline and 100 was set as its corresponding ‘proof’; thus, in the US, the proof is double the ABV.

Today, alcohol strength is globally measured according to terms framed by the Metre Convention. Signed by 17 nations in May 1875, it set the framework for global collaboration in the science of measurement. Without it, our cocktails

(and incalculable other measurements) would be in disarray, so there’s a strong case for adding World Metrology Day (20 May) to your calendar of cocktail celebrations!

How much should we be consuming?

But where does this leave our understanding of how much alcohol we can and should be consuming? While ABV is an important measure for those of us who want to know how much we’re drinking so that we can measure or modify our consumption, it is still a confusing system to truly get to grips with. This is where alcohol units come in.

First introduced in the UK in 1987, alcohol units are a standardised way of measuring the amount of pure alcohol in a drink. While ABV measures the percentage of alcohol by volume, alcohol units consider both the volume of the drink and its ABV, providing a more accurate representation of the amount of alcohol being consumed. Designed to help us better track and monitor our alcohol intake, they’re also helpful in allowing us to compare the strength of different drinks.

One alcohol unit is defined as 10ml of pure alcohol, which is equivalent to

approximately one 25ml shot of spirits or half a pint of lower-strength beer; a small (125ml) glass of wine comes in at around 1.5 units*. The number of alcohol units in a drink is calculated by multiplying the volume of the drink (in ml) by its ABV percentage, then dividing by 1,000. For example, a 175ml glass of wine with an ABV of 12% contains 2.1 units of alcohol: (175 x 12) ÷ 1,000 = 2.1. As a reminder, men and women are advised not to exceed 14 units of alcohol per week, and this consumption should be spread across several days rather than consuming all of the weekly allowance in one or two sittings.

While this standardised approach is designed to be easier to understand, it still creates confusion and many of us find the system tricky to remember and navigate. Even the Office for National Statistics acknowledges the difficulty of accurately representing self-reported

alcohol consumption as many of us either deliberately underestimate, or simply don’t understand how to accurately count or track what we’re consuming. One helpful resource is the Drinkaware website, which has tons of useful tools to make counting units easier.

Different strokes for different folks

It’s worth noting that much of the guidance around recommended consumption does not take into account the way that people metabolise alcohol. Differences in body size, body composition and the activity of certain enzymes involved in alcohol metabolism all have an impact. In addition, hormones can interfere with alcohol absorption, with higher levels of oestrogen resulting in some women experiencing the effects of alcohol for longer periods of time.

Numbers, while informative, really

only tell part of the story. In food, they might advise on energy and nutrition, but they don’t tell us about whether we’ll enjoy the food, or whether it will fit our mood for that day. Equally, diminishing drinks to their alcohol content can only provide a part of the picture, not whether the drink will be well balanced, or even more complex than the next. It can help to determine how many drinks we can have, but it’s incumbent upon us to get to know how many is right for us, right now. One of the reasons that the standardisation of alcohol units and ‘responsible levels’ of consumption gets tricky is because we’re not a ‘standard’ species.

You don’t need me to tell you that today, more than ever, there are so many delicious options at various ABVs and that choice is a beautiful thing. Getting to know your numbers, finding something delicious to drink when you’re not drinking, or really savouring something stronger when you’re in the mood has never been easier. So, the next time your doctor asks how much you drink, answer accurately. Your health, and the Office for National Statistics, will thank you.

First introduced in the UK in 1987, alcohol units are a standardised way of measuring the amount of pure alcohol

SIZE

IS EVERYTHING

When it comes to wanting to get a drink, I for one, have many moods and personalities. A sort of Jekyll and Hyde of the cocktail circuit if you will. There have been days when all I want is to catch up with an old friend and actually be able to hear the words coming out of their mouth while I sip on a dangerously Dry Martini. Other days, the last thing I want is to be spoken to, so I’m looking for something far more distracting but with equally great drinks.

My search for the perfect bar for every mood has led me to discover them in all shapes and sizes. From tiny three-seaters in Italy to the 500-odd-cover bar in a bustling Colombian city, I’ve seen it all.

CAPACITY ≤10

Perfectly private

When in the mood for something very private, unhindered by conversations from the neighbouring table or too much information about someone’s marital issues, the intimate-style bars offer safe haven. There are single-bartender bars in Tokyo (and in fact across Japan) where there is just one person making drinks – somewhat of a virtuoso performing a solo and yes, the wait for the drink can be 10-15 minutes, which is considered very normal in places of this kind. Highly recommended bars in the city include Land Bar Artisan and Bar Dice, both of which typically serve no more than five or so people at a time, have no apprentice bartenders, and are committed to technique – don’t expect a ‘quick drink’ here. But trust me when I say your patience will be rewarded.

The omakase room at The Aubrey in London, with seats for no more than six people (if you like a snug fit) is a great place to celebrate with a very small group of friends. This needs to be pre-booked and you have to book the whole space. No single seats or walk-ins, unfortunately. But once you’re in, you’ll be regaled with beautifully crafted drinks and light bites all in keeping with the luxurious interiors of the omakase room.

Another ‘hidden’ gem of this kind is Backdoor 43 in Milan, a 43 sq. ft. bar with seats for three guests, a miniature window through which they can receive their drink (and sneak a little peek of the bartender – or their hands – at work), and entry restricted to password holders. The best part about a bar like this where you and your two friends will likely be the only guests, is that the menu is tailored for you. There is a plethora of rare and old spirits to choose from and you’ll find yourself sufficiently occupied with all the curious things hanging on the walls, while your drink is being masterfully crafted for you. The three-seat situation does have potential to get a bit awkward though, especially if someone is on a date and you’re just hanging around like the uninvited third wheel. But if you’re there with friends, it’s just the kind of place that can feel like a cool little back-room, after-hours party.

Believe me when I tell you there is a bar for every mood, says professional bar hopper Priyanka Blah

Above: Outside and below: inside the tiny Backdoor 43 in Milan

Above: There's room for six at the omakase room at The Aubrey; Below: Bar Manager Pietro Rizzo

CAPACITY ≤30

Warm and inviting

Some days, the murmur of people talking over barely audible music while you sip a cold Martini is all it takes to nourish your soul. For days like this, I pick a place where I’m most likely to find a quiet seat at the bar within earshot of the bartender, and a great view of the rest of the room. A cosy bar that seats 15-20 people is what I’m usually looking for. Enough room for everyone to enjoy a sense of solitude but no chasms of empty space for it to feel desolate. The Bellwood in Tokyo’s Shibuya comes to mind – modelled after a 20th-century Japanese coffee house, it serves cocktails based on tea and coffee. Dark wood interiors, warm lighting, and the melodic sound of ice dancing in mixing glasses and cocktail shakers makes this moody little bar the perfect place to sit back with a book.

Another such find is Bar Rocking Chair in Kyoto. Housed within an old townhouse, it’s one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. Behind the long wooden bar there’s an enviable selection of spirits, and I can safely say this is quite the introvert’s haven, showcasing the finest of Japanese hospitality. A bartender serves you in the most unostentatious and elegant way possible, and knows exactly when to leave you alone and when to come back to tempt you with another crisp cocktail. This is the kind of service one dreams of at the end of a long day, and Singapore’s Live Twice is another little gem that is perfect for an evening like this. Inspired by bars in midcentury Japan, the place is warm, the service style restrained and the Vespers icy-cold – it’s the kind of place where time stands still.

When in the mood for something more edgy, Le Syndicat, located in Paris’s 10th arrondissement, is the place to go. A gritty urban space with forward-thinking drinks, industrial interiors and a great hip-hop playlist, it has all the vibes and none of the pretence.

This picture and right: The Bellwood in Shibuya;

Rocking chairs in Bar Rocking Chair, Kyoto

Edgy and urban at Le Syndicat, Paris

Large and lively

A larger celebratory event or a reunion of friends calls for somewhere that serves upwards of 50 people. Bars of this kind are typically busier, a tad louder and brimming with energy – which is probably the mood you’re looking for when going out in big groups. Drink Kong in Rome, known for its uniquely progressive drinks, neon lighting and King Kong influences, is a great example of a big bar that gets it right. Much like Lyaness in London and Double Chicken Please in New York, there is no compromise on the quality of drinks or service, no matter how busy the bar is on any given night.

At a bar like Double Chicken Please, you can expect to find casual service, lots of great bar bites (their Popcorn Chicken is dangerously addictive) and that classic Lower East Side joie de vivre that makes it come alive every night. DCP is busy on most days, so the Front Room has cocktails on tap – a clever way to ensure consistency in quality and speed in service. The Back Room, however, is a whole other world, with dishes like French Toast and Mango Sticky Rice reinvented in liquid form and served as tastebud-tingling cocktails.

Bars like these are great for a casual catch-up with your best mates, but they’re perfect for first dates too, with just enough welcome distractions and conversation starters to keep your night flowing.

Lyaness, London

Drink Kong, Rome

Left: Inside Double Chicken Please; Right: The DCP team

CAPACITY 300+

High volume, high energy

For days when I’m yearning for distraction, I’m typically in the mood for something boisterous and high energy. Something that will infuse a zest for life right back into my bloodstream and get that serotonin to do its thing. On such days, I’m inclined towards the high-volume bars, the ones that cater to upwards of 300 people and where you can forget about the very idea of personal space. Tucked in the bylanes of bustling Cartagena is Alquímico, a bar that is a culmination of the city’s infectious energy and Colombia’s unbridled lust for life. Expect high-quality pre-batched drinks, impeccable service across all three floors, a less-than-subtle reggaeton playlist and a dancefloor that you’ll have to fight hard to keep yourself from.

Over at Himkok in Oslo, things are only slightly different. There’s no pumping reggaeton here, I’m afraid – but what they lack in dance therapy, they more than make up for in drinks. With pre-batched cocktails, taptails, beers and ciders on tap, this Norwegian bar can serve over 400 guests at a time across three main areas, and consistently deliver the highest quality drinks quickly and efficiently.

For those more inclined to enjoy a drink in a slightly more formal setting, Milan’s Camparino in Galleria might be just the spot. At this historic aperitivo bar, opened in 1915, you can have all the buzz of a high-volume bar while being served by bartenders in crisp white jackets and enjoying spectacular views of the city’s famed Duomo. Camparino has the special ability to attract as many local regulars as it does tourists and it would not be an exaggeration to say that the bar has stood the test of time for a reason: the fine art of seamlessly blending tradition with modern-day luxury.

From bars in historic squares to bars behind surreptitious doors, from the quiet corners of Kyoto to the busy streets of New York, there is something for everybody. All you need to do is pick a mood.

Perfect for crowds: Himkok, Oslo and below: Camparino, Milan

Three levels of fabulousness at Alquímico, Cartagena

Spring flavours

Three

Cans

SAKE SLING

They say: “Sake Sling’s range has a complex and delicious umami base that makes them a natural pairing for Asian dishes, as well as a cocktail that can be enjoyed anytime with friends.”

We say: Created in consultation with the late Wayne Collins, these cans blend sake with a range of friuty flavours including Yuzu & Melon and Mandarin & Cherry.

5.5% abv, 250ml, RRP £4.95

WHITEBOX COCKTAILS WHISKY HIGHBALL

They say: “Whisky highballs have grown in popularity all over the world and we’re really happy to add to the category with something that feels brighter in profile but with true respect to the origins.”

We say: We couldn’t agree more. This is a whisky highball and then some, with peach and tea bringing freshness to the fore.

8% abv, 330ml, RRP £5.50

They say: influence from the essence of what makes the classic Paloma cocktail yet with a Scandi twist.”

We say: If this is anything like its predecessor, the Oslo Mule, this is definitely going to be our drink of the summer.

4.7% abv, 330ml, RRP 49.99 NOK/ approx. £4

new cans, five updated bottles –all created with the lighter days in mind

Liqueur

LUXARDO ESPRESSO LIQUEUR

They say: “The flavour and nuances of quality coffee are universally understood, and fans of coffee will appreciate this sophisticated new liqueur.”

We say: Oh hi Espresso Martini and Black Russian –this one is just for you! But don’t limit it to cocktails, it’s also pretty fab served neat or over ice.

27% abv, 70cl, RRP £26-28

Rum BACARDÍ CARIBBEAN SPICED

RUM

They say: “The magic of the new Bacardí Caribbean Spiced comes from the coconut sugar blossom, a unique and widely unused part of the coconut, giving rum fans a sensory experience that will transport them to the Caribbean with every sip.”

We say: Coconut blossom, cinnamon and vanilla wrapped up with subtly oaked rum –what’s not to like about that?

40% abv, 70cl, RRP £24

Aperitif CORDUSIO

They say: “We wanted to upgrade our cocktails with a 100% natural super-premium aperitif and we simply couldn’t find the ingredients… until we were able to make the Cordusio recipe, natural and with red berries.”

We say: Tart and aromatic and bursting with flavour, this works like a charm in numerous cocktails.

19.5% abv, 70cl, RRP £35

Gin

HENDRICK’S FLORA ADORA

They say: “Hendrick’s Flora Adora is inspired by the flowers that most entice our nectar-loving friends to pollinate our precious ecosystem.”

We say: Take a sip, close your eyes and allow this new limited-edition expression to take your tastebuds on a delightfully evocative stroll through an English country garden.

43.4% abv, 70cl, RRP £33

Whisky

KINGSBARNS DOOCOT

They say: “Scottish for dovecot, the doocot sits at the centre of our Fife distillery and holds our first fill cask from March 2015. As a space that once acted as home for doves and pigeons, it has now transitioned to a home for our story, but with its history still very much intact.”

We say: Sweet, floral and fabulously fruity, this is light, bright and is perfect as a fresh summer sipper.

46% abv, 70cl, RRP £45

SELECT SIX

When it comes to nailing down the most popular cocktails, there are countless lists that set out to award the ultimate top spot to a single serve. Rather than pitch in with some intricate research, our list is purely personal. These are the ones we love to order out and mix up at home. Not a top six but rather our select six – each an absolute number one for an ingredient or occasion.

Photography Gary Smith Drinks stylist Troels Knudsen Poster Design Bentley Creative

Nº.1 FOR ENJOYING A GREAT SPIRIT ON A HOT DAY

PIERRE COLLINS

50ml cognac

25ml lemon juice

15ml sugar syrup

50ml soda to top

Method: Shake everything except the soda over ice and strain into a Collins glass filled with ice. Top with the soda and give it a gentle stir. Garnish with a fancy sail of an orange slice and a cherry on a metal cocktail stick.

WE ENJOY A REGULAR MARGARITA, OF COURSE WE DO, BUT AFTER TRYING ONE OF THESE MADE BY ITS CREATOR, JULIO BERMEJO, WE REALLY LIKED THE WAY IT PUT THE TEQUILA FRONT AND CENTRE. WHEN TRYING A NEW TEQUILA THIS IS HOW WE DO IT.

TOMMY’S MARGARITA

60ML TEQUILA

# 1 FORSHOWCASING OUR FAVOURITETEQUILA S

I SH METHOD

• 30MLLIMEJUICE

:SHAKEALLTHEINGREDIENTSOVER

• 15ML AGAVE SYRUP

• LIMEWEDGEGARNISH

• ROCKSALTGARN

ICE AND STRAIN INTO ANICE-FILLEDROCKSGLASSWITHASALT RIM.

We’ve tried and made this beautiful drink countless ways (trust us, it worked a treat with our homemade toffee and banana syrup). But these days we favour showcasing the spirit and just play around with the garnish. And we love a little smoke.

OLDFASHIONED

Nº .1

FORACLASSICTHAT LOVES A CONTEMPORARYTW I S T

50ml whisk(e)y

10ml brown sugar syrup

3 dashes Angostura bitters Rosemary garnish

Method: Stir the ingredients over ice and strain into your favourite Rocks glass with chunky ice. Garnish with a little smoking rosemary and a twist of orange peel.

BREAKFAST MARTINI

50ML LONDON DRY GIN

15ML COINTREAU

15ML FRESH LEMON JUICE

1 BAR SPOON OF FINE CUT ORANGE MARMALADE ORANGE-PEEL GARNISH

METHOD: POUR ALL THE INGREDIENTS INTO A SHAKER AND STIR TO DISSOLVE THE MARMALADE. ADD ICE, SHAKE AND STRAIN INTO A CHILLED COCKTAIL GLASS. GARNISH WITH A TWIST OF ORANGE PEEL.

NUMBER ONE FOR STARTING A WEEKEND BRUNCH JUST RIGHT

DRINK TO THE BEAT

That soundtrack playing as you sip your cocktails is more than background music, it's vital in setting the mood and flow of the room, as Rob Wood of Music Concierge explains

Rob Wood has made it his business to curate the mood and signature sounds for some of the swankiest lifestyle brands and spaces in the world. As founder and creative director of Music Concierge, a consultancy that specialises in music curation, playlist creation and audio branding, his client list takes in hotel groups such as Park Hyatt and Jumierah Hotels & Resorts; luxury stores including Dunhill, Orlebar Brown and Harvey Nichols, and Heston Blumenthal, Sushisamba and Dishoom restaurants. Obviously each client has different needs, but whatever their sector or intended audience, there's one thing that unites them: the need to get the bpms, or beats per minute, just right for the required flow.

“Music sets the pace – its rhythms and energy affecting how customers feel and behave,” Rob explains. “A soundtrack of easy-going, relaxed music tells people to take their time, order another coffee, or enjoy another course. A no-reservations, queues-round-the-block, two-hours-atable street-food joint, however, would more likely keep turnover steady with something more urgent and upbeat.”

It’s not rocket science but that doesn’t mean that getting it right is easy. The art of putting together a perfect soundtrack not once, not twice but again and again takes time, precision, passion and knowhow. Which is why Rob and his team are in such high demand.

“As human beings we experience everything through all of our senses. The way something looks is number one, closely followed by sound and hearing,” he explains. “As an operator, customers are experiencing your venue through sound, whether you like it or not, so you may as well get it right and make it add to the overall experience. Even if you can’t touch it, it’s something we all feel.” As anyone who has ever left a venue because the music was too loud or just plain wrong for the occasion will no doubt concur.

Knowing your audience is one thing but an understanding of bpms is vital. They’re the key that help DJs match tracks together to ensure a seamless flow. With that in mind, what kind of numbers would play out on a typical evening in one of the bars they work with? “It really depends on the bar,” Rob says. “Let’s say it’s a Thursday evening in an underperforming bar and the client’s objective is to hold the audience longer

Music Concierge in numbers

Years in business:

Music genres in numbers

Dub: 60-90 bpm

Hip-hop: 60-100 bpm

House: 115-130 bpm

Techno/trance: 120-140 bpm

Dubstep: 135-145 bpm

Drum and bass: 160-180 bpm

106

Countries served:

than 7pm. If it’s a venue with a casual coffee time or a hotel, we’ll start with music playing at round 80-110 bpm in the afternoon. As we get towards post-work, around 4.30-5pm say, we start to build the energy, turning up the pace to around 110-125 bpm. Then at around 7pm, the mid-evening peak when people have had a drink and are thinking about leaving for something to eat or going to catch the train home, we’ll take it up again to around 120-130 bpm, depending on the place – this is the key time to give the room some energy and encourage them to stay. But we have to be mindful. Bars sometimes forget they’re not nightclubs, people still want to talk!

Highest client:

442m above sea level

Lowest client:

110m below sea level

Styles of music collected:

2 0 0 +

Number of singers in the music team:

“There’s also the wind down which happens around 11pm-12am when there may be a quarter of the guests left in the room – people who have been out all evening or have come in after dinner for a nightcap. This is when we’ll take the bpms back to the 80-110 mark – the staff appreciate it too as it signifies that they’re getting ready for close.”

Number of DJs in the music team:

Number of musicians in the music team:

FIFTEEN FOUR TWELVE NINE

Rob’s love affair with music and its abilities to transform moods and spaces began at a young age. “I started making mixtapes for friends at school when I was eight years old!” he laughs. It was only natural that he went on to become a DJ. “I was booked for four gigs in my first week at Sheffield University on the strength of my record collection.” From there, he started writing about music, eventually going on to become editor of now defunct dance magazine Jockey Slut. “As a magazine editor by day and DJ at night, I was choosing what my audience was reading and listening to. Different brands cottoned on to that and came to me and asked if I could curate their sound and create their identity through music. Which was around the same time that bars and hotels were trying to stand out by having their own books, art and interior design but were all playing the same what I call Cafe-del-Buddha-Bar music. That’s when I saw the gap for Music Concierge and I haven’t looked back since.”

Rob Wood, founder and creator, Music Concierge

DIGESTIF

TIME TO SIP, SAVOUR AND CONTEMPLATE

p. 56

Details count

Inside Handshake Speakeasy, number 11 in The World’s 50 Best Bars list

IN THIS ISSUE

A bartender’s coming of age through the lens of an Old Fashioned; a delicious threeingredient cocktail; dining by numbers and five to visit in The Floating City

GO FIGURE!

Fun facts and interesting stats around drinks

49,000,000

The number of ingredients in The Commonwealth cocktail, created for the Glasgow Commonwealth Games in honour of the 71 competing countries and territories

ONE

The number of gin distilleries in the City of London

3,303 metres: the height above sea level at which ORMA Swiss whisky is produced, in the world’s highest whisky distillery

1798

A note on measures

5ml = 1 TEASPOON

5ml = 1 BAR SPOON

7ml = ¼ OUNCE

15ml =½ OUNCE

22ml = ¾ OUNCE

30ml = 1 OUNCE

45ml = 1½ OUNCE

60ml = 2 OUNCES

480 METRES

THE HEIGHT OF THE WORLD’S HIGHEST BAR, OZONE AT THE RITZ-CARLTON IN HONG KONG, LOCATED ON THE HOTEL’S 118TH FLOOR

The word ‘cocktail’ first appeared in print in London’s Morning Post and Gazetteer

140+

The number of distilleries in Scotland

The greatest concentration of whisky production in the world

S4.5m

The amount the world’s largest private whisky collection of 9,000 bottles sold for in 2022

1854

McSorley’s Old Ale House opened in New York – making it the city’s oldest Irish pub

1862

The first recognised cocktail book for bartenders, Jerry Thomas’ Bartenders Guide: How To Mix Drinks, was published

The number of standard Champagne bottles in a Melchizedek (30L), the largest Champagne bottle size…

…and the number of glasses it pours

Royal Warrants held by London wine and spirit merchants

Berry Bros & Rudd

1863

Martini Rosso Vermouth was created

COCKTAIL TRIVIA

THE APPROX NUMBER OF BUBBLES IN A BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE

The position of Paradiso Bar, Barcelona, on The World’s 50 Best Bars list 2022

81 YEARS

THE TIME THE WORLD’S OLDEST SINGLE-MALT WHISKY RELEASE, THE MACALLAN THE REACH, SPENT MATURING IN A SEASONED SHERRY OAK CASK

£5,500

The price of the record-breaking cocktail created by Salvatore ‘The Maestro’ Calabrese in 2012 using a 1778 cognac, a 1770 liqueur, an 1860 curaçao and bitters from 1900

GINS WITH NUMBERS IN THEIR NAMES

SEVENTY ONE

MONKEY 47

NO.3 LONDON DRY

EIGHT LANDS

NO. 209

BEAUMONT 8

J.P. ADLAM NO.8

THE LONDON NO. 1

TANQUERAY NO. TEN

BEEFEATER 24

LANGTONS NO. 1 LAKELAND

SYMPHONIA NO.1 DRY 44°N

GRIFFITHS BROTHERS NO.2

SW4 LONDON DRY

TREGUDDICK NO.4 CARIBBEAN

HOBART NO.4

BLAST FURNACE NO.5

5TH BLACK AIR

WATERLOO NO. 9

6 O'CLOCK

RAKKI NO.7

COLOMBO NO.7

ĚSTÍA NO.7 1689

3,300

THE NUMBER OF COCKTAIL RECIPES IN THE 17 TH EDITION OF DIFFORD’S GUIDE , PUBLISHED IN 2022

1915

The Singapore Sling was created by Raffles hotel bartender Ngiam Tong Boon

1923 Legendary bartender Harry MacElhone bought the Parisian bar that he renamed Harry’s New York Bar

1919

The year in which it’s said Count Camillo Negroni requested a variation of the Americano, with the bartender obliging by substituting gin for soda water, creating the Negroni

1927

Harry Craddock, head bartender at the American Bar at The Savoy, London, concealed a cocktail shaker with a freshly shaken White Lady cocktail within the walls of the hotel during its renovation

1930

Harry Craddock’s The Savoy Cocktail Book was published…

£1,750

How much a first edition copy of Harry Craddock’s The Savoy Cocktail Book will set you back

1933

The year that Miguel Boadas opened Barcelona ’s iconic cocktail bar, Boadas

1983

The Vodka Espresso, later to be called the Espresso Martini, was created in London by Dick Bradsell

The number of basic types of sake: junmai-shu, honjozo-shu, ginjo-shu and daiginjo-shu

THE COCKTAIL GIRL DISCOVERS…

What’s behind one of the sexiest secret doors in Mexico City

I’ve been dying to get to Mexico City to check out Handshake Speakeasy. I mean, this bar has only just celebrated its second birthday and has already grown from five to 27 staff, is number two in North America’s Top 50 Bars list and a very sexy number 11 in The World’s 50 Best Bars. Think about that for a moment.

Number 11 – IN THE WORLD! There are bars that have been around for at least three times as long that would kill for that. So what’s all the fuss about?

Quite a lot actually. I’ll start with the shallow stuff, the aesthetics. First off, in true speakeasy style, the entrance is low-key – or should I say would go unnoticed if you didn’t know what you were looking for. It’s the number 13 on what seems like a plain old wall on the side of the NH Collection Mexico City Reforma hotel for

your reference. And that’s the other thing that jolts a bit. Not being funny, but at first glance, this four-star hotel doesn’t look like the sort of place where you’d expect to find a treasure like this: a five-star bar with first-class hospitality and cocktails that score 10 out of 10.

Once inside – after ringing a doorbell, of course – two things hit me almost at the same time. The size. It’s not much larger than my living room (which isn’t huge btw). Then before that little shock has time to sink in, I’m overcome by its grandeur. It may be small but it has seriously big attitude. Gold trim, twinkling chandeliers and gilded mirrors offset the black (or is it dark brown or navy?) walls and velvet seating, which add to the intimacy of the space and definitely let you know that this place means business. The bar sits proudly at one end, a long table runs down the centre and there are another few tables dotted along the side.

The new menu had just launched when I visited so if you’re heading to Mexico City any time soon, you’re in for a treat. Looks aren’t everything but they certainly help and this one is beautifully conceived

Handshake Speakeasy, Amberes 65, Colonia Juárez, Mexico City

with knockout illustrations from Mexican artist Susana Lozano. The drinks are pretty spesh too… The team, headed up by Eric van Beek and Dario Zeilmaker (with strong support from Rodrigo Urraca and Marcos di Battista), have gone over and above in supporting their community, teaming up with small, independent producers wherever possible and even providing a map of local bars so you can visit their peers while you’re in the city. Cool, huh?

But enough of the spiel, what’s shaking up at Handshake?

I absolutely loved the Chica de Humo (smoked tequila, tomato water, smoke and soda water) and their amazing Piña Colada (Torres 15 Brandy, pineapple, coconut, vanilla and micro coriander), and in the shorter, more robust section of the menu, I was blown away by the Que-es(o) (Galénico Gin, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, blue cheese, fino sherry and an olive), but there are many great options to choose from. And, good news! Due to popular demand, they’ve recently opened another bar –in the same hotel but down a secret staircase. Ask nicely and someone just may let you in. handshake.bar

THE COCKTAIL GUY SAVOURS…

well-to-do friend. It has a luxurious art deco feel about it, while rose is the prevailing colour in a range of tints and textures from marble to leather, and there’s a stunning contemporary stained-glass mirror centrepiece from London-based artist Annie Morris.

If you’re particularly lucky, as I’m delighted to say we were, you may find yourself welcomed with a nod from Mr Jon Nickoll seated at the piano. Usually to be found at another five-star London establishment, he now also croons his way through classic tunes here, making for the perfect accompaniment to the drinks.

This cocktail guy makes no secret of the fact that he enjoys a little glamour in his life. It’s why I fell in love with cocktails in the first place. And it’s why one of my favourite places has long been the hotel that is elegance epitomised, Claridge’s in Mayfair. Many a happy evening has been whiled away in its eponymous bar or The Fumoir. Now I’ll let you in on a little secret: it has a third space, which has also cast a spell over me. The reason I refer to it as something of a secret is that it is rather hidden and that adds to its appeal. You have to know it’s there, because it’s highly unlikely that you’ll stumble across it. And I happen to like that. So after one or two twists and turns there it is – a discreet entrance subtly signposted by the faint tinkle of glasses and the always welcome sound of a cocktail shaker being vigorously pressed into action. It’s a very small, inviting and particularly intimate room. In fact, it feels as though you’ve stepped into the home bar of a rather

Ah yes, the menu. Inspired by the artists and hues of southern Europe, it focuses on fresh flavours from small-batch producers. And those hues are brought to life in the evocative names of the drinks. I began with Maximum Purple (Boatyard Vodka, Savoia Americano, cassis and Champagne) – rich in flavour, with a solid backbone from the vodka and lifted nicely by the fizz. My date loved her Old Gold (Tapatio Blanco Tequila, Los Siete Misterios Doba-Yej Mezcal, China liqueur, agave, apple and lime), describing it as a drink that revealed more with every sip.

Several delicious drinks and a few small plates later (the ox cheek croquettes with tarragon and cucumber relish were exquisite), we rounded off our evening with me going for the Pecan (Maker’s Mark 46 Bourbon, calvados, Nux liqueur, apple, vanilla and pecan) and my date selecting the Gamboge (Michter’s Bourbon, dry vermouth, Drambuie, saffron and cacao). Both felt indulgent and wholly suited the seductive feeling of the evening.

As I say, I love a little glamour in my life and I’ll be getting my regular top-up at The Painter’s Room in the evenings ahead. claridges.co.uk

The Painter’s Room, Claridge’s, Brook Street, London W1K 4HR

Seductive art deco elegance at a London institution

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

Cocktail-making tips from the top with Jack Sotti

I’ve learnt to make an Old Fashioned four times in my life. Each time, a new pivotal lesson in mixology, guest experience and efficiency, and each time a new milestone in any bartender’s career; a professional coming of age.

18 years old: Misguided magic

The first Old Fashioned galvanized hospitality as a career choice for me. The transmutation of sugar, water, alcohol and bitters into this magnificent entity that encapsulates hundreds of years of shared knowledge, handed down from mentor to rookie, into the hands of a paying, trusting guest. Finished with a luminous red cherry and flamed orange zest. Five minutes, one drink. Pure magic.

Method: Place a square drinks napkin atop your Rocks glass. Delicately place a Perruche brown sugar cube on the napkin and dowse the cube in Angostura bitters. Snap the napkin away, allowing the sugar cube to tumble into your glass. With the back of a bar spoon, crush the sugar and, with a splash of soda, work into a paste. Now, in 10ml and single ice cube increments, add a good-quality bourbon, stirring constantly and only adding the next increment after each ice cube has dissolved, to a total of 50ml. Add ice and garnish with the orange flambé and neon cherry.

21 years old: High-volume luxury

If the end result is the same, and you’re three deep, why not make efficiencies? As a young bartender, you begin to find your style and make connections. It was while bartending in a high-tempo members’ bar that my saline-spiked, rich demerara simple syrup enabled me to make Old Fashioneds en masse, in a Gallone mixing glass, for the whole room. With the aid of my pre-dissolved sugar, I was an OF vending machine.

Method: Dissolve 200g demerara sugar in 100g boiling water with 5g salt. To a mixing

glass, add 5ml of syrup to 50ml bourbon and 2 dashes Angostura bitters. Stir until cold and strain over fresh ice into a Rocks glass. Finish with an orange twist and a Luxardo marasca cherry.

25 years old: Cocktail theatre overkill

How many ways can you smoke a cocktail? The charred stave, the bell jar, the smoke waterfall, the whole glass cabinet… believe me, I’ve tried them all. At 25 you have mastered the little black book of classics and start to explore new ways to surprise and delight your guests. In comes cocktail theatre: shaken and stirred becomes flamed, thrown and smoked, and the punters love it. The humble, timeless Old Fashioned is ruthlessly choked in hot and heavy wood smoke in ways that would put the Kama Sutra to shame. They can’t get enough of it, but the subtle nuanced stories once told by the liquid are gone. Method: Take the previously perfect Old Fashioned, and set it on fire.

30 years old: Ruthless efficiency

Once you get over your fascination with fire and brimstone, with age and hindsight comes refinement and respect – for the original Old Fashioned and the liquids it elevates. The years the makers have put into it, the silent slumber of ageing spirits. And now, you are the final hurdle before it reaches a guest’s lips. In the pursuit of absolute perfection, you seek to control balance, temperature and dilution. And so the only thing left is to batch the damned thing, prediluted, and store it in the freezer at -8°C. And all that missing magic, I hear you ask? Storytelling and warm hospitality will always far exceed smoke and mirrors.

Method: Add 700ml bourbon, 70ml salted demerara syrup and 10 dashes Angostura bitters to a 1L bottle along with 150ml filtered water. Shake to combine and place in your freezer for 2 hours. To serve, pour over a solid block of clear ice and finish with a small orange coin expressed over the top.

JESSICA KANTAK BAILEY –UNSPLASH

TAKE THREE INGREDIENTS

by Dan Berger, Blinker, Manchester

The Blinker

1. 50ml Lot 40 Rye Whisky

2. 40ml fresh pink grapefruit juice

3. 20ml raspberry shrub*

Method: Shake ingredients over ice. Double-strain into a chilled Coupe glass.

*To make the raspberry shrub: Combine 2 cups raspberries and 1 cup red wine vinegar in a jar; leave for 4 days. Strain out the raspberries, add 1 cup caster sugar and leave in the jar for another 4 days.

Dan Berger is the man behind Manchester's Blinker, a classic-style cocktail bar that opened its doors in May 2022. The critically acclaimed bar's pared-back, seasonal approach is inspired by its namesake, an often-forgotten three-ingredient cocktail called The Blinker. With a monthly changing menu based on four in-season flavours, as well as dedicated Martini and Old Fashioned menus, there’s an artfully mixed serve for all cocktail lovers. blinkerbar.co.uk

SEASONAL SUGGESTIONS

Dawn Davies, Buying Director for Speciality Drinks and The Whisky Exchange, travels the globe to source her favourite bottles for spring

The New World of Whisk(e)y

With the cost of Scotch whisky going upward and availability going downward, we’re on the hunt for new things to fill our drinks cabinet with. Luckily, the whisky world is exploding with choice.

We can start in our own backyard – from Lochlea in Scotland to White Peak in England, we’re seeing a wealth of new distilleries. Over in Ireland, there’s a host of upand-coming distilleries too: Boann, for example, is doing some insanely exciting stuff with heritage grains and Teeling is playing around with all sorts of casks from rum to ginger beer. But be warned, most ‘new’ Irish brands are just buying aged stock from the same few established distilleries and finishing it, so do your research.

Hop across the Channel and you hit France – Eddu and Glann ar Mor are two favourites. Travel north to the Netherlands and seek out the wonderful whiskies from Zuidam. To the east we find Milk & Honey with their experiments in ageing by the Dead Sea, the lowest place on Earth. Then head on to India, Taiwan and even China, where there’s great liquid to be had.

Australia is also getting in on the action – try out Gospel’s ryes. A stunner from New Zealand is Thomson’s manuka-smoked single malt. The Americas have corn whiskey from Mexico and amazing ryes from Canada, and don’t forget the new class of single malts in America #notjustaboutbourbon.

Whether you like your whisk(e)y with an ‘e’ or just a ‘y’ it really is everywhere. From Aurora Spirit in Norway at 69.39°N to Cardrona in New Zealand at 44.8°S, there’s never been a more exciting time to be a whisky explorer.

All available from thewhiskyexchange.com

MAINS & MARTINIS

Three London destinations with numbers at their core, from a title and calorie counts to a sky-high setting

45 JERMYN STREET, LONDON SW1Y 6DN

45jermynst.com (£££)

The vibe: Grown-up, sophisticated, elegant – we could go on. Instead, we’ll put it in context: 45 is the freestanding restaurant attached to British stalwart Fortnum & Mason, established 1707 and, in keeping with its history and location – bang in the middle of the historic gentlemen’s corner of St James’s –everything from the soothing eau de nil walls and burnt orange leather seating, to the marble-fronted bar, says class.

The food: It’s one of those menus that will have you salivating as you read through it. Old-school British classics like Gatelands Farm calves’ liver with onions and sugar pit bacon vie for attention along with more modern dishes such as teriyaki chicken salad, wasabi mayonnaise and toasted sesame seeds. Then there are the dishes served from the trolley and prepared tableside, like caviar with blinis, baked new potatoes and scrambled eggs; or beef wellington, dauphinoise potatoes, green beans and peppercorn sauce for two, and the rather luscious lobster spaghetti with artichokes and lemon verbena. We went for the Cumbrian beef steak tartare as a main and tandoori Cornish monkfish with cucumber and pickled lime. Both scoring the highest possible marks in presentation and taste.

The drinks: More than a cursory area for an aperitif before dinner, the bar is a destination in its own right. As is our wont, we started with the Martini 45 for two (Hepple Gin, Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth and Palo Cortado Sherry), icy cold from the freezer and presented in a wee bottle to top up at your leisure. There are more gems like that to choose from, including The Beaus, Champagne Cocktails, Signatures, Marys, Finishers and Rickies. Save room for a boozy Float, taking in must-trys such as Corn Flake ice cream, brown butter syrup and a nice hit of Four Roses Bourbon.

45 Jermyn St

The Aubrey

The vibe: There’s an undeniable air of the Japonisme movement in the dining room (although there’s a touch of the posh British pub in the bar upfront). The entire place is inspired by 19th-century English author and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley and as such is richly decorated. Here it’s all womb-like, chic and super cosy, with deepest pink velvet and leather upholstery and what we’re told are Ukiyo-e prints gracing the salmonpink walls.

The food: Try as you might, it’s hard to ignore the calorie count listed beside each

Gŏng Bar

LEVEL 52, SHANGRI-LA, THE SHARD, 31 ST THOMAS STREET, LONDON SE1 9QU gong-shangri-la.com (£££)

The vibe: You want views? You’ll get views for miles here. Located on the 52nd floor of The Shard, Gŏng is the highest hotel bar in Western Europe and as such, bagging one of the window seats is key. When you’re not looking out, the interior soothes with calming greys and pops of red. But we won’t lie, nothing can compete with those views.

The food: Sushi-style bites are the perfect accompaniment for cocktails. Fact. Here, they’re not as elaborate or varied as at The Aubrey, but it’s a totally different offering so we didn’t mind a jot. We went for the spicy yellowfin tuna maki rolls and prawn dragon rolls, followed by chicken gyoza, ginger and soy, and spiced nori, salt and pepper squid and sweet chilli mayo from the hot plates section – just what our cocktails were calling for.

dish. Who knew that a seared hamachi and prawn tempura roll comes in at 795kcals, or the wagyu oxtail and bone marrow fried rice would set you back 1073kcals? Still, we managed to push past the numbers and settled in for a feast, warming up with a selection of snacks and starters before moving on to the excellent Signature Sushi Platter. From the robata grill, we went for the sustainable miso black cod (456kcals) and Iberico secreto pork (409kcals), because, life’s too short not to, right?

The drinks: The menu is based on one of Aubrey

Beardsley’s classic works, The Yellow Book, and we must say, they’ve done him proud. We dipped into Volume One and each of the three chapters draws you in with exquisite art and literature, as well as outstanding drinks.

From Chapter One – Art Nouveau, we loved the light and aromatic Peacock Room (Sakura Mancino Vermouth, sweet potato shochu, yuzu and tonic); in Chapter Two –The 108 Heroes of the Popular Suikoden, we were suitably impressed with the Roshi (Kiyomi Rum, pear cordial, dry vermouth, chocolate bitters and a spritz of smoked sakura cherry perfume).

The drinks: We’ll preface this by saying the drinks here don’t come cheap –the Deluxe section ranges from £33 to £52, while the main menu is £24 (without service). Still, you’re here for those views, right? And as a ticket for The View from The Shard experience on level 68 is £32, without a drink, you could consider this option a bit of a bargain. We went for a heady Batik Fashioned (Havana 7 Year Old Rum, pandan, Pisang Ambon, Pimento Dram, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, verjus and Angostura bitters) and the Japanese-inspired Onibasu Martini (Ketel One Vodka, shochu, sake, mirin wine, soy and red spruce), garnished with those fabulous views.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK, 66 KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON SW1X 7LA theaubreycollection.com (£££)

THE MAGIC OF VENICE

The city of canals, carnivals, culture and… cocktails

Ah, Venice, The Floating City. Renowned for its romantic waterways, astonishing architecture and exquisite Murano glass, there’s another attraction to add to the impressive list that everyone knows and loves – cocktails. Who knew? We didn’t, and neither do a lot of visitors who flock here. That’s why Paola Mencarelli launched Venice Cocktail Week.

Highlighting 32 of the city’s bars, the week-long activity took in an array of varied venues – each with its own distinct house styles and characterful cocktail menus. The following are five of our faves. venicecocktailweek.it

Caffè Florian

THE HISTORIC ONE

It ain’t one of the cheapest spots (an Americano or double espresso on the terrace will set you back €11.50; coffee with whipped cream €15), but that doesn’t stop Caffè Florian from being one of the busiest places in the city. Its location certainly helps – you can’t miss it, beckoning at you as you take in the attractions of St Mark’s Square. So does its decor: a series of interconnecting salons, each gilded and frescoed up to the max and taking in the Chinese Room, Oriental Room, Room of the Illustrious Men, Senate Room, Room of Seasons and Liberty Room.

But perhaps its biggest calling card is its history. Florian is the oldest surviving café in Venice with an impressive roster of movers and shakers having graced its halls – Charles Dickens, Casanova, Hemingway, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie among them.

No one will judge you if you’re spotted sipping a spritz or bubbly-based seasonal tipple in the morning. As evening progresses, it’s time to get involved with the cocktail list, featuring the likes of Gin & It, Martinis and Negronis. caffeflorian.com

Arts Bar, The St Regis Venice

THE ARTSY ONE

When was the last time that you rocked up to a bar in a boat? Seriously. We can’t tell you how fabulous we felt stepping out of a water taxi and straight into the glamour of the Arts Bar at the celebrated St Regis hotel. And we’re happy to report that our fandom of this place didn’t end there.

As its name suggests, the bar is inspired by art, but more specifically, the artists who have made a mark in Venice –we’re talking everyone from Canaletto to Banksy, Dalí to Monet and several more, all captured delightfully and deliciously in cocktail form.

Take the Canal-Art, for example, inspired by the Banksy artwork that appeared on one of the buildings in Venice during the 2019 Biennale. Among other ingredients, the drink takes in mezcal (to express the artist’s strong and

You can't beat Caffè Florian for history, or location (above), in the centre of St Mark's Square

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME THAT YOU ROCKED UP TO A BAR IN A BOAT?

mysterious personality), Sant’Erasmo artichoke cordial (to link to the local area) and a clever pink ‘air’ (to evoke the pink smoke featured in the image). It works like a charm, both visually and on the palate.

Then there’s the Venetian Cobbler, an ode to Jacopo Tintoretto’s The Miracle of the Slave. Taking inspiration from the vivid colours, grape vines and smoke featured in the painting, the rich yet refreshing cocktail blends Valpolicella, homemade strawberry shrub, Abricot du Roussillon, fino sherry, Talisker whisky and Peychaud’s bitters and is finished with a dramatic green tea smoke.

The environment in which to enjoy your drinks is equally inspiring. Take your pick from the elegant art-filled room or head outside to the gorgeous terrace and watch the Venitian nightlife float by on the canal. You’ll think you’re in heaven. artsbarvenice.com

Watch the world float by as you sip your cocktails on the terrace at the Arts Bar, The St Regis Venice

Experimental Cocktail Club at Il Palazzo Experimental

THE PLAYFUL ONE

If you’re a fan of the Experimental Group’s increasingly expanding portfolio, currently taking in hotels, bars, nightclubs and spas in locations like Paris, London, New York and Verbier amongst others, prepare for something a little different. This is the Experimental Group Venetianstyle, which means a magnificent palazzo setting with views over the Giudecca Canal and more stylish features than you can shake a stick at.

It works like a charm, we must say. We love the location, a vaporetto ride away from the touristy bustle of St Mark’s and on to the more artsy, authentic Dorsoduro district. And Il Palazzo Experimental fits in perfectly. Fresh and funky, bright and buoyant but not too outré to jar with the 16th-century bones of the place, it certainly adds some vibrancy to the area. The bar is designed by Cristina Celestino and spills out to a beautiful garden.

On the menu: staples such as Spritzes, Negronis and Americanos but also bespoke cocktails featuring seasonal ingredients made by Lorenzo Di Cola and the team.

palazzoexperimental.com

The Bar, Aman Venice

THE SEXY ONE

Just when you think you’ve seen every magnificent building there is to see in Venice, you’re greeted with the vision that is the Aman. Prepare for some serious droppage of jaw as you work your way through the 16th-century palazzo, still privately owned by the Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga family who have an apartment on the top floor.

Talk about decadence, there’s not an inch of the place that doesn’t make you feel like you’re in a movie – that goes for the spectacular views and classic art to the statement Murano chandeliers. But don’t mistake that for being blingy: somehow, the decor complete with

NO WONDER GEORGE AND AMAL CLOONEY CHOSE TO HAVE THEIR WEDDING RECEPTION AND FIRST NIGHT AS MARRIEDS HERE…

Top: Il Palazzo

Experimental: Above: Experimental Cocktail Club head bartender Lorenzo Di Cola hard at work

ornate fireplaces, gilded mirrors and delightful frescoes still retains an air of upscale minimalism. No wonder George and Amal Clooney chose to have their wedding reception and first night as marrieds here…

So what of the bar? The sweeping staircase from which you approach it is a clue – it’s blooming gorgeous. Inspired by the noble virtues of Lord Byron, the bar is located in the opulent Red Room where

many a high society soiree was held throughout the centuries. And it remains a visual feast, complete with silk wall coverings, lofty ceiling adorned with an original fresco by Cesare Lotto, sink-into seating and a pretty darned impressive back bar.

Could there be a better name for the signature drinks menu than Masterpieces? We think not.

The Martini here is appropriately dressed up to the nines and called Lustful (Ki No Bi Gin, extra-dry vermouth and 24-carat gold leaf), while the classic menu features all of the cocktails you know and love, plus your pick of 34 gins as the base for your G&T. Enjoy it in the bar or in the spectacular garden beside the Grand Canal. aman.com

Osteria I Rusteghi

THE CLASSIC ONE

For something different and totally charming, we advise a visit to Osteria I Rusteghi.

Positioned in a courtyard between the Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square, it’s one of those places that you need to know about otherwise a) you won’t find it, or b) if you do, you won’t realise how much of a gem it is.

Owned by Giovanni d’Este, a former sommelier, the bijoux hotspot has been in the family for five generations, but Giovanni has made it into something well worth seeking out. Wine and specialist spirit bottles line every available surface, while legs of ham hang from the ceiling. Grab a chair inside if you can, or relax outside in the courtyard and leave it to Giovanni to suggest a wine to go with a plate of charcuterie. Fancy a cocktail? No worries, Italian favourites such as Americanos and Negronis are served in simple tumblers. Perfection.

@irusteghivenezia

Silk wallpaper, elaborate frescoes and masterful drinks await at The Bar at Aman, which sits directly on the Grand Canal (top)

Giovanni d'Este and colleague Marco Montaldo

A MENU LAUNCH TO REMEMBER

Why launch a cocktail menu in one bar when you can share the love on the same day in six bars around the world?

How do you get the world to sit up and take notice of your new cocktail menu? You launch all 20 drinks on the list (complete with original glassware and the same printed menus) in six bars across six continents all on one night, that’s how. Crazy? Ambitious? Logistically bonkers? All of those things and so much more. But Xavier Landais, director of bars at Caprice Holdings, and the team at Sexy Fish can’t help themselves – they love a challenge.

The menu in question is Trinity, a celebration of the three hero components in a well-crafted drink: flavour, aroma and texture. The bars it appeared in for the enterprising launch night pop-ups were El Barón, Colombia; Cause Effect, South Africa; Re-, Australia; Zest, South Korea and, of course, Sexy Fish in London and Miami, where you’ll find the drinks from now on. sexyfish.com

Straight from Colombia’s exuberant Carribean coast, La Hechicera is a naturally unadulterated Extra Anejo rum with a promise: From barrel to bottle, nothing added in between.