THE EXPERTS’ CHOICE Holly Graham,
Founder, Tokyo Confidential
pretty tasty. If it was anyone else then we would politely go for something else. (Despite well-meaning protests as they were all keen to try their hand at the mixology lark.) So, why did we keep going back? Yes, it could have been the convenience, but then there were also a handful of decent pubs and a couple of pleasant wine bars, all within about the same distance. The reason, plain and simple, was the people and the atmosphere they created. The tone was set by the bar team. It was how they made us, and everyone else, feel. It was as though a few of our friends were running a bar as an open house.
Above and below: Feeling part of a community at your local bar
What they lacked in skill they more than made up for in being genuinely nice people. They greeted all of their regulars by name and made new guests instantly feel right at home. Lots of energy, bad jokes, music tracks put on because you mentioned something you liked. On one particular occasion I dropped in alone for a quick one. Fortunately X took my order and I knew I could get a decent Martini. I then noticed he had made two. When I pointed this out he simply said it was a happy hour two-forone, and swiftly deposited the second into the fridge to await my pleasure. Unorthodox yes, but thoughtful. And they did these kinds of things all the time. Small gestures. Remembering things you said or friends you’d brought in. Asking how the family was. Bearing in mind that at the time, social media was in its infancy, they also collected people’s mobile numbers. So it was not unusual to get a text message on a grey Monday evening saying something like they were giving away food with any drinks ordered. Yes, it was marketing, but it made you feel part of something. And feeling part of something is feeling part of a community. In towns and cities, this is especially valuable. Good neighbourhood bars are the urban equivalent of the village hall. Sadly this bar has gone, a victim of ever-increasing rents in the area, and has been replaced by a barbershop. But we still talk about it to this day. Times have changed, too. And now, all around the world, it’s not unusual to find neighbourhood bars that actually mix up incredibly good cocktails, serve outstanding small bites, curate clever playlists and more. But what marks out the very best of them is the people. It goes beyond great service. From five stars to dive bars. It’s how they make you feel. So, if you’re lucky enough to have a great neighbourhood bar, we urge you to support it. And in the meantime, we’ll raise a glass to the great neighbourhood bars of the world.
55 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 45
The Bellwood (Tokyo) “A local bar with just a touch of Japanese flair. The bartenders wear smart uniforms and the cocktails are pretty special, but it’s got the feel of a tiny pub you could sit in for hours. The Pontiac (Hong Kong) “Brooklyn dive bar feel, wicked soundtrack, great cocktails and a highly inclusive ethos. The kind of place you can roll solo whatever time, whether you want a quiet one or a rowdy night.”
François Monti Cocktail Writer
The Dash (Madrid) “First of the new wave of Madrid cocktail bars to venture out of the city centre. Understated look, great music and impeccable classics. Neighbourly and homely, as it should be. Onda Cocktail Room (Lisbon) “I like the small, quiet room, fell for the short but to the point drinks. I like the history too. Co-owner Peter O'Connor was Master of Whiskey for Diageo, but on a visit to Lisbon he decided to give up his job and open this bar.”
Jim Meehan
Author, Meehan's Bartender Manual Bryant’s (Milwaukee) “A blueprint for the perfect bar. Peerless sightlines over dozens of corner seats if you can’t get a seat at the bar, a fish tank and a McIntosh sound system long before listening bars became popular here in the States. Best Intentions (Chicago) “Opened by a former co-worker, Chris Marty with his brother Calvin. It's a quintessential Chicago tavern where every detail is meticulously considered. Come for Angostura on draft and stay for the decadent Wondermint Malted.”
