The Cultured Traveller - Ninth Anniversary Edition, September-November 2023 Issue 43

48 EUROPEAN ELEGANCE WITH A GLOBAL OUTLOOK

From under-the-radar restaurants and family run wineries to centuries-old watchmakers and the ancient chateaux that line its shores, GENEVA exudes an effortless style. Joe Mortimer delves into the historical events that left a long legacy of peace and diplomacy in Switzerland’s second largest city.

82 A DOZEN OF THE CONTINENT’S STANDOUT

SPAS

Havens from the outside world to which we increasingly retreat to unwind, relax and rejuvenate, spas are becoming more intuitive, modern and personalised, and cutting-edge treatments and swish new facilities are regularly being premiered across the continent. The Cultured Traveller visits a curated selection of Europe’s best.

64 FROM DRAG BARS TO BRITISH PRIME

TIME TV

A stalwart of the UK gay scene, PAUL O’GRADY first found fame as “blonde bomb-site” Lily Savage. During a career lasting four decades, he proceeded to take British pub drag mainstream, whilst earning national treasure status. Paul Burston pays tribute to a much-loved man who never forgot his roots.

124 HI-ENERGY ASIAN FUSION IN THE MOTHER CITY

Spanning more than 120-hectares in the shadow of Table Mountain, Cape Town’s Victoria & Albert Waterfront is a bustling city district unto itself. In the heart of it, Nicholas Chrisostomou checks out the Japanese izakaya -style small plates and contemporary Cantonese cuisine at TANG.

46 WIN FOUR NIGHTS AT THE GATEWAY

TO ANGKOR WAT

The lucky winner of our ninth anniversary prize draw will stay for four nights at RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D'ANGKOR in Siem Reap, which has welcomed everyone from Jackie Kennedy to Michelle Obama during the past 90 years. Included are champagne breakfasts, vintage limousine airport transfers and a Vespa tour of Angkor wat.

CONTENTS

8 CONTRIBUTORS

Meet some of the globetrotting writers who have contributed to our Ninth Anniversary Edition.

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

A foreword from the magazine’s editorin-chief, Nicholas Chrisostomou.

12 NEWSFLASH

From new unmissable exhibitions to cultural happenings and landmark festivals, The Cultured Traveller rounds up standout events taking place around the world during the coming months, including the GOLDEN EAGLE FESTIVAL held in the extreme west of Mongolia, which showcases Kazakhstani culture to the world; the second annual LONDON FASHION WEEK, that will inform next year’s spring/summer trends; the ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR, which coincides with the late autumn harvest of Tartufo bianco di Alba every year, and the first exhibition of its kind to celebrate the power ➤

and creativity of iconic performers who have made their voices heard from the 19th century through to today – DIVA at London’s V&A museum.

28 REST YOUR HEAD

In the Ninth Anniversary Edition, our globetrotting writers explore twelve hotels around the world that deliver more than your average stay, including the architecturally striking ST. REGIS KANAI RESORT in Playa del Carmen, which resembles intertwined circles inspired by the Pleiades star cluster; celebrity shoe designer Christian Louboutin’s first foray into the hospitality industry, VERMELHO MELIDES, located on the Alentejo coast in Portugal; the picturesque island of Capri’s very first hotel, which has been transformed by Oetker Collection and the Reuben brothers into supremely elegant HOTEL LA PALMA, and eco-conscious CAP KAROSO, set on the unique, unspoilt eastern Indonesian island of Sumba, where nature, culture, faith and its people live in harmony.

72 SUITE ENVY

The magical Okavango Delta is home to one of Africa’s most diverse concentrations of wildlife. Testament to the harmonious coexistence of hospitality, luxury and nature, XIGERA is a safari experience like no other. Nicholas Chrisostomou checks into the lodge’s premier Xigera Suite and leaves Botswana completely smitten.

98 SPOTLIGHT

Wandering its pastel lanes, savouring its distinctive cuisine, admiring the colonial architecture and being immersed in its vibrant music and art culture, Alex Benasuli is seduced by SALVADOR DE BAHIA in Brazil.

114 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Nestled on Mykonos’ famous Paraga Beach, SCORPIOS is a magnet for the international jet-set and almost certainly the most exclusive venue on the island for dining, drinking and grooving. Nicholas Chrisostomou spends an evening finding out what all the fuss is about.

118 IN CONVERSATION WITH Joe Mortimer talks to pioneer of viticulture and winemaking, ANTHONY HAMILTON RUSSELL, who is committed to producing elegant ➤

structured and highly individual Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in one of the most southerly wine estates in Africa.

129 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

Punctuated by 14th century Genoese walls running through it, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits stylish new all-daydining venue I-GURU, located in the heart of Istanbul’s lively Beyoğlu district.

132 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

Fresh out of a recent sabbatical, The Cultured Traveller interviews one-man DJing phenomenon HARDWELL, who signed his first record deal just out of puberty, was voted the world’s best DJ at the age of 25 and hasn’t looked back since.

139 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in the Ninth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller magazine.

140 SUITE WITH A VIEW

Located in Mecidiyeköy on the European side of the city, FAIRMONT QUASAR ISTANBUL’s singular presidential suite seemingly hovers above the entire metropolis, boasting panoramic vistas towards the Bosphorus Straight.

JOE MORTIMER

➤ CITY FOCUS - GENEVA

A UK travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News, Joe is an avid wine enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating a corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Joe Mortimer, Paul Burston, Howard Healy, Alex Benasuli

WITH THANKS TO Vicki Tollman, Suzie Thompson, Stefan Otto Talita Engelbrecht, Diana Porim, Vass at Urban Rebel PR Adrian Gibson

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté, London

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com

PAUL BURSTON

➤ COMEDY ICON - PAUL O’GRADY

Paul Burston is a critically acclaimed writer and journalist. When he’s not penning a novel or hosting his Polari literary salon, you will find him at the theatre or bingeing box sets in London, relaxing in Hastings or visiting friends and swimming in sunny Sitges.

Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

➤ ISSUE 43

© 2023 Coco Latté. All rights reserved

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Download the digital version of the Ninth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller magazine at ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/ 43

ALEX BENASULI

➤ SPOTLIGHT - SALVADOR DE BAHIA

London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa, as well as North and South America intimately. As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an off-the-beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

Follow The Cultured Traveller on @theculturedtraveller @culturedtraveller

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER COCO LATTÉ

5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY UK

Escape to the enchanting oasis of Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech, where luxury and culture converge in perfect harmony. Nestled against the backdrop of the majestic Atlas Mountains, our lavish resort offers a haven of tranquility and sophistication.

Whether you’re seeking a romantic getaway, a family adventure, or a serene retreat, Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech promises an unforgettable experience filled with warm hospitality and unmatched elegance.

JUST A FEW YEARS AGO, the prospect of travelling regularly again almost seemed like a pipe dream, such was the state of the planet and the effects of Covid. Jump forward to 2023 and most of us have resumed globetrotting, and we are flying further, although I like to think that we are now being more selective. I know I am. The decisions I make, the destinations I visit and the people I meet have also been impacted, not least because time has become more valuable. Travelling has become more costly. And tackling any airport these days is no fun at all. So it is essential to choose wisely and do the things that you’ve been putting off for ages. Jump on a plane and gaze at Petra in awe; marvel at the Acropolis of Athens; stroll the avenues of Paris, or simply wander around some botanical gardens close to home. Most importantly, take time out for yourself and see something new.

OUR BIRTHDAY ISSUES ARE AN excuse to feature more than we might otherwise and the Ninth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller is no exception. On the following 100 or so pages of editorial, Joe Mortimer explores Switzerland’s gorgeous second city of Geneva, which bowled me over when I first visited earlier this year (page 48). We round-up a dozen of Europe’s finest spas, for which there was a great deal of competition, because the wellness industry

is booming right now. This can only mean that we are all setting aside more time to make ourselves feel good (page 82). I am lucky enough to stay at extraordinary Xigera Safari Lodge in the Okavango Delta, which has been lovingly reborn by a family with generations of experience in the hospitality industry (page 72). Paul Burston recounts the life of comedy icon Paul O’Grady, who took British pub drag mainstream and earnt national treasure status (page 66). And one lucky reader will win four nights at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, which is positioned at the gateway to the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia (page 46)

IT IS THANKS TO YOU, OUR LOYAL readers (and our advertisers, of course) that The Cultured Traveller team continues to travel the globe seeking out the most moving places to visit and standout resorts to rest your head. So, I’d like to take this opportunity to wish you fun and exciting adventures in the coming year, to lands that truly open your mind and expand your world.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

Clockwise from left to right: Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor; COMO Castello Del Nero; Xigera Safari Lodge; Fondue in Geneva

news

FROM LONDON FASHION WEEK TO THE WORLD BODY PAINTING FESTIVAL, AND SALON DU CHOCOLAT IN PARIS TO THE FAMOUS WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR IN ALBA, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

ROUNDS UP STANDOUT EVENTS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD DURING THE COMING MONTHS

CURE SALÉE

PLANET WAKEHURST

HOME TO THE Millennium Seed Bank, more than 500 acres of diverse landscapes and flora and fauna from across the planet, Kew’s wild botanic garden, Wakehurst, is located in the heart of Sussex. And now it is also home to one of the UK’s largest outdoor art installations. Wrapping three sides of the Grade I listed Elizabethan Mansion at the heart of the gardens, which is currently

being renovated, Planet Wakehurst is an immense photo montage by Australian artist, Catherine Nelson. Comprising hundreds of photographs captured by Nelson at Wakehurst during the summer of 2022, the spectacular collage celebrates plant biodiversity, from the colourful blooms of Wakehurst’s water gardens to the towering giant Californian Redwoods in Wakehurst's woodlands, Horsebridge Wood. Throughout 2023 kew.org/wakehurst

TOWARDS THE END OF the rainy season, in mid-late September, Saharan clans gather at the salt flats and pools near the tiny West African town of In-gall, in the Agadez region of northeast Niger, to refresh their herds and prepare for the trip south so that they can survive the dry season. But before heading south, tens of thousands of nomads converge on In-Gall to celebrate Cure Salée – an annual gathering that serves as a harvest festival, marketplace, tribal gathering and, most importantly, a spectacular male beauty parade. Here, the roles are reversed, since it is the men who paint their faces, don ceremonial costumes and sing and dance to impress the female judges in an effort to be named the most attractive man of their clan. The talent portion of the show – known as Yaake – is akin to line dancing, with men swaying shoulderto-shoulder, singing and chanting in a hypnotic fashion. A tea made of fermented bark, rumoured to have a hallucinogenic effect, fuels the men to dance wildly for hours.

16-18 September 2023

GOLDEN EAGLE FESTIVAL

BAYAN-ULGII IS A far-off land of high mountains, torrents and glaciers in the extreme west of Mongolia. The area is inhabited by the Kazakhs, which is a minority people of a different culture from the Mongols. Kazakhs herd yaks and goats and hunt with trained eagles. Celebrating its 24th anniversary this year, Mongolia’s annual Golden Eagle Festival showcases Kazakhstani culture to the world and promotes Kazakh heritage to the next generations. Organised by the Mongolian Eagle Hunters’ Association, despite being held in hard-to-reach Bayan-Ulgii – where the country borders Russia, China and Kazakhstan – this event often attracts a large number of tourists keen to photograph the dozens of eagle hunters who come together especially. Over two days, they test their skills by comparing their birds’ accuracy in a variety of different tournaments relating to Golden Eagles and their hunters, horses, camels and archery.

16-17 September 2023

viewmongolia.com

LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2024

UNDOUBTEDLY THE MOST prestigious and coveted fashion event in the country and featuring both menswear and womenswear designers, the second annual London Fashion Week hits the British capital in mid-September and will inform next year’s spring/ summer trends. Whilst the shows are officially scheduled for five days from the 15th, off-piste viewings and LFW-related events will be taking place all over London before, during and after the week, with emerging designers and renowned fashion houses vying for the most coveted time

slots and the most celebrity attendees. New to the schedule will be Eirinn Hayhow with her magical, gender-fluid garments, and BFC Fashion Trust 2023 recipient, shoe designer Alfredo Pīferi, who has already collaborated with Jimmy Choo and Burberry. One thing’s for sure, the catwalks are likely to be star-studded, front rows will be filled with famous faces, fashion fairytales will be born and some trends will almost certainly be over the top. But come the end of September, we will all know what we’ll be wearing next summer.

15-19 September 2023

britishfashioncouncil.com

WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL

THE HUMAN BODY HAS been used as a canvas by people all over the world for thousands of years, with almost every culture in history painting or adorning themselves in some form of celebration or ritual, using everything from make-up to tattoos. One of the most colourful and unusual festivals you are ever likely to see, the World Bodypainting Festival has been celebrating visual culture and music and wowing audiences for twenty-five years. Although the name divulges basically what happens, there is far more to this visual treasure trove than you might think, with artists and models from a multitude of countries doing their best to shock and entertain visitors. Happening over the course of five days in the Austrian city of Klagenfurt, on the eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee, the World Bodypainting Festival has grown into the foremost and most well-known event of its type in the world.

26-30 September 2023

bodypainting-festival.com

CHICHÉN ITZÁ AUTUMN EQUINOX

LITERALLY MEANING "AT THE brim of the well where the wise men of the water live” in Maya, the ancient city of Chichén Itzá is located in the state of Yucatan in eastern Mexico and has been named by UNESCO as both a World Heritage Site and a New Wonder of the World. Twice a year, when the Northern Hemisphere moves into autumn in September and the Southern Hemisphere emerges from winter into spring in March, thousands of people travel from around the world to Chichén Itzá to admire the astronomical spectacle unfold at its pyramid dedicated to Kukulcán (or Quetzalcoatl), when the late afternoon sun creates the illusion of a snake creeping slowly down the northern staircase of the pyramid, watched by groups of New Agers in robes. The entire day exudes a carnival-like atmosphere, with rock bands playing music, folk dance troupes cavorting and visitors wearing white in an attempt to rid themselves of bad vibes and attract positive energy from the new sun.

23 September 2023

HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL

A FEW HOURS’ drive from Cape Town, the pretty South African seaside town of Hermanus offers spectacular coastlines, stunning beaches, a handful of excellent wineries and an array of wonderful places to eat. The icing on the cake is its tradition of whale watching and once a year the Hermanus Whale Festival celebrates the return of southern right whales to South Africa’s coastal waters, as they migrate from their icy feeding grounds off Antarctica to warmer climes. From June and until early December, the waters off the coast of Hermanus team with the giant mammals mating, calving and rearing their young, whilst giving whale-watchers phenomenal displays of their raw power and water acrobatics incredibly close to the shoreline. Now in its 32nd year and taking place over three days, thousands of visitors will descend upon Hermanus for 2023’s festival.

29 September - 1 October 2023 hermanuswhalefestival.co.za

MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL

DATING BACK SOME 3,000 years and most probably originating from the worship of the moon amongst the people of ancient China, who were fervent moon worshippers, over the centuries, as China grew in size and sophistication, the various traditions of lunar veneration amalgamated into the Mid-Autumn festival we see today. Also known as the Moon Festival or Mooncake Festival, it is the second most important festival in China after Chinese New

Year and is also celebrated by many other Asian countries, including Singapore, Malaysia and the Philippines. In China, Mid-Autumn Festival is a celebration of the rice harvest and ceremonies are held both to give thanks for the harvest and to encourage the harvest-giving light to return again in the coming year. It is also a reunion time for families (a little like Thanksgiving) with Chinese people gathering for dinners, worshiping the moon, lighting paper lanterns and eating mooncakes.

29 September 2023

BERLIN FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS

FOR TEN DAYS EVERY year, the light is the art in the dynamic and constantly changing cosmopolitan city of Berlin, as installations created by global artists are projected onto iconic monuments, historic buildings and famous landmarks.

6-15 October 2023

festival-of-lights.de/en

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS MUSIC FESTIVAL

ONE OF THE BEST CITIES Stateside to start a new business and a hotbed of technology and innovation, the Texan metropolis of Austin has repeatedly been voted the best place to live in America based on affordability, job prospects and quality of life. Once a year, all of Austin's many qualities come together at Zilker Metropolitan Park in the south of the city – a beautiful recreational area of more than 350 acres at the juncture of Barton Creek and the Colorado River – for the hugely popular ACL Music Festival. Founded in 2002, the festival spans two consecutive three-day weekends, and boasts multiple stages upon which musical groups from a variety of genres perform to around half a million fans. In addition to the countless live rock, indie, country, folk, electronic and hip-hop performances, the festival showcases local foods, art, crafts and the work of charitable organisations. This year’s line-up is headlined by the Foo Fighters, Shania Twain and Alanis Morissette on the Saturday nights, Kendrick Lamar on the Friday nights and British folk rock band Mumford & Sons on the Sunday nights. (pictured).

6-8 + 13-15 October 2023

aclfestival.com

ALBUQUERQUE INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA

BRINGING TOGETHER pilots, crews and hot air and gas ballooning enthusiasts from more than fifty countries and drawing a crowd of tens of thousands, this October’s outing will be the 51st for Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, and will coincide with an annular solar eclipse during the tail end of the mass ascension on 14th October. With hundreds upon hundreds of brightly coloured balloons taking off at the same time, the fiesta is an impressive visual spectacle. Mass ascensions

(when hundreds of balloons lift off together into the morning sky) are held on all four weekend mornings plus one day mid-week, but only after a dawn patrol carefully examines the weather conditions. When the green light is given, balloons from all over the world rise together in a harmonious lift off as dawn breaks over the Sandia Mountains. The sight of so many colourful balloons in the sky is as breathtaking for first-time visitors as it continues to be for veteran attendees.

7-15 October 2023

balloonfiesta.com

FRIEZE LONDON

SET IN THE HEART OF THE British capital, much-lauded annual Frieze Art Fair catalyses one of the most significant weeks in London’s cultural calendar. Usually featuring over one hundred of the world’s leading galleries, plus dozens more at Frieze Masters, together these two fairs present the best of international contemporary art by emerging and established artists, alongside a dynamic programme of newly commissioned artworks, short films and talks. Frieze also runs workshops, hosts seminars

and shows performance-based installation artworks. For this year’s 20th anniversary edition, Frieze London will celebrate with a dynamic programme of special projects, partnerships and events that demonstrate London’s appeal as a vibrant cultural destination. And Frieze Week – an extended programme of cultural events – will run in conjunction with the fairs from 9th October at galleries, institutions and artist-led spaces throughout the city.

11-15 October 2023

frieze.com

ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

COINCIDING WITH THE late autumn harvest period of Tartufo bianco di Alba , every year, the pretty town of Alba hosts its world famous international white truffle fair. Nestled in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, about an hour by car from Turin, Alba is known as the town of a hundred medieval towers and its old centre is beautifully preserved. Strolling its streets and piazzas, with a gelato in hand, is one of life's great pleasures. As the truffle fair approaches, international chefs, gastronomy

buffs, oenophiles and travelling foodies all descend upon Alba to sample the decadent, aromatic and wildly exclusive white prizes, which are characterised by their irregular shape, due to the unevenness of the soil in which they grow. During the fair, the little unattractive mushrooms – sniffed out by trained dogs and pigs – are cleaned, meticulously preserved and shaved sparingly over pasta, risotto, grilled vegetables and just about everything else.

7 October - 12 December 2023

fieradeltartufo.org

PHUKET VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL

WHILE THE ORIGINS OF THIS bizarre festival are a little fuzzy, the most agreed upon version of events is that a wandering Chinese opera company fell ill en mass with Malaria while performing in Phuket many decades ago. In an attempt to beat the disease, the group adopted a strict vegetarian diet and prayed intensely to the nine emperor gods for purification of their bodies and minds to be cured. Surprisingly, the group made a miraculous and complete recovery

and celebrated by originating a festival to honour the gods. Thus, Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival was born. Now an annual happening not for the faint hearted yet attended by thousands, the festival features a number of rituals, including participants performing ritualised mutilation upon themselves and one another, without anesthetic but while under a trance-like state, including piercing their mouths, cheeks, ears and arms with fishhooks, knives, razor blades and bamboo poles in dramatic fashion.

15-24 October 2023

NAVRATRI

OBSERVED IN HONOUR of the goddess Durga for defeating the demon Mahishasura, and literally meaning ‘nine nights’, Navratri is one of the most popular and widely celebrated Hindu festivals in many parts of India.

15-24 October 2023

MASSKARA

A POPULAR CELEBRATION THAT traces its roots back to 1980, Bacolod’s world-famous MassKara festival was introduced as a way to boost morale after poor sugarcane sales, plus a tragedy that took the lives of 700 people, many of whom were from Bacolod. Since then, this vibrant and highly colourful festival in the affectionately known “City of Smiles” has become a much revered annual happening. Named from a combination of the English word mass and the Spanish word kara meaning face, MassKara is recognised by the smiling masks worn by the numerous revellers performing in the city’s streets. Spectators are also treated to food festivals, live music, dance competitions and a parade of illuminated floats and giant puppets. Sports events, pageants and street parties also feature during the main days of MassKara. But what makes this festival particularly standout, is the genuine warmth and friendliness of the welcoming Filipinos.

22 October 2023

lovepilipinas.com

WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA

SINCE THE FIRST FESTIVAL OF Music and the Arts took place in October 1951, Wexford Festival Opera has grown into one of the world’s leading opera festivals. For more than seven decades, the festival has breathed new life into forgotten or neglected operatic masterpieces, establishing a reputation for high-quality productions that bring thousands of opera lovers flocking from all over the world to the beautiful harbour town of Wexford, in the southeastern corner of the island. All operas are performed at The National Opera House, Ireland’s first custom-built opera house. The festival’s gala concert on 29th October, featuring a collection of favourite party pieces performed by members of the company, is always a highlight and all proceeds go towards supporting Wexford Festival Opera. Meanwhile, the festival’s program of informal lunchtime recitals, held at the O’Reilly Theatre, provide an insight into the artistic personalities of some of Wexford’s principal solo singers, who perform a wide variety of music from across the operatic repertoire.

24 October - 5 November 2023

wexfordopera.com

BRISBANE GOOD FOOD & WINE SHOW

A LARGE MODERN metropolis brimming with entrepreneurial zeal, cosmopolitan young people, bohemian nightclubs, happening bars and world-class restaurants, it’s perhaps unsurprising that Brisbane hosts one of the country’s top food and wine shows.

Celebrating regionally sourced and locallyproduced foods and vino, and showcasing artisan and home-grown produce from within the state and across Australia, Brisbane’s Good Food & Wine Show offers everything from master classes hosted by leading chefs, to “The Smelly Cheese Project” helmed by a cheese expert taking visitors on a sensory cheese appreciation journey, to a “Gin Lovers Ticket” for aficionados of Mother’s Ruin, which provides access to more than 20 distillers. For a more exclusive experience, buy a ticket for the Margaret River Wine VIP Lounge to enjoy fast-track entry, complimentary wines, a delicious lunch courtesy of award-winning chef Andrew Ballard and even a Riedel gift to take home.

27-29 October 2023

goodfoodshow.com.au/brisbane

VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE

A COLOURFUL AND vibrant event which sees thousands of costumed party-goers parade through the streets of New York, the city’s Village Halloween Parade was founded almost fifty years ago in 1974 by master mask-maker and puppeteer, Ralph Lee, and is today supported, in part, by public funds from the New York City Department of Cultural Affairs in partnership with the City Council. This year’s ghouls will be led by puppeteers Alex Kahn and Sophia Michahelles, together with hundreds of puppets, dozens of bands of varying musical styles, dancers, circus performers and floats, all watched by a multitude of spectators. While the theme for 2023 is “Rain or Shine”, any costume is welcome and being costumed is a must to participate. Undoubtedly America’s most wildly creative public participatory event held in arguably one of the most vibrant and diverse cities in the world, New York City’s annual Halloween parade never disappoints!.

31 October 2023

halloween-nyc.com

SALON DU CHOCOLAT

DUBBED THE WORLD'S largest event dedicated to chocolate innovations and cocoa expressions, Salon Du Chocolat is a unique happening revered by chocolate aficionados the world over. Held in the heart of the French capital at the Porte de Versailles Exhibition Center, over five days, this annual chocfest hosts hundreds of international chocolatiers hailing from dozens of countries, including some of the world’s greatest pastry chefs and cocoa experts. Whilst visitors are afforded a unique opportunity to discover and taste chocolate products found nowhere else, the highlight of the festival is undoubtedly The Chocolate Fashion Show, when a number of duos of chocolatiers and fashion designers showcase an incredible collection of couture outfits made entirely out of chocolate, via two shows every day at 4pm and 5pm. Live performances by talented young chefs and renowned chocolate makers, recreating their finest chocolate creations, are also worth checking-out.

28 October - 1 November 2023

salonduchocolat.fr

DIVA

THE FIRST EXHIBITION of its kind to celebrate the extraordinary power and creativity of iconic performers who have made their voices heard from the 19th century through to today, DIVA at London’s V&A is an unmissable exhibition for fashion and music followers, and is accompanied by an innovative headset for all visitors, which automatically triggers complementary music as you view the exhibits. Until 7 April 2024

vam.ac.uk

PIRATES FEST

WHILE THE CAYMANS are renowned for being one of the most notorious tax havens on earth, once a year, pirates take over its three stunning islands. So, if you enjoy the revelry of swashbuckling combined with a western Caribbean climate, Pirates Fest is undoubtedly the best time for you to visit this beautiful part of the world. Every November, pirates run amok throughout the islands in this family-friendly festival of Cayman culture and pirate folklore that brings to life the famous Pirates of the Caribbean complete with

simulated pirate invasions, firework displays, underwater treasure hunts, street dances, costume contests, parties and fancy dressed revellers at the end of every gangplank. While festivities take place on Cayman Brac (24-26 November) and Little Cayman (3-5 November), the main event happens on Grand Cayman (9-10 November) where ten fun-filled days are punctuated by more partying than mock sword fights! Don’t miss the official Pirate Kick-Off Party on 10 November to get up-close-andpersonal with the pirate crews.

3-26 November 2023

piratesfestcayman.com

DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS

280 MILES SOUTHeast of the Mexican capital, Oaxaca City has a rich indigenous history and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. And every November, Oaxaca City is probably the best place on the planet to experience three-day 3,000-yearold Día de los Muertos, which dates back to pre-Colombian times. During these 72-hours, the dead are honoured and their souls welcomed home as a blessing, while images abound of animated calaveras skeletons which were invented by 19th century printmaker Jose Guadalupe Posada and popularised by artist Diego Rivera. 30th October is a day of preparation, when the women clean the house and get food ready while the men build clay altars. Día de los Angelitios (Day of the Little Angels) on 31st October is dedicated to children. The main event on 1st November – Día de los Muertos – is a more adult affair with bigger and more elaborate costumes, more complex rituals, spicier foods and tequila aplenty.

2 November 2023

BURNING BARRELS AT OTTERY ST MARY

FOR REASONS LOST IN antiquity, on 5th November every year, residents of the small Devonshire village of Ottery St Mary, in England’s East Devon district, grab large tar barrels and carry them on their backs and shoulders, fully aflame, through the streets. Said to be a tradition dating back hundreds of years, the exact origins are unknown, but probably started after the gunpowder plot of 1605. Each of Ottery's central public houses

sponsors a single barrel which, in the weeks prior to the day of the event, is soaked with tar. In total, seventeen barrels are lit over the course of the evening. In the afternoon and early evening, there are women's and boy's barrels. But, as the evening progresses, the barrels get larger. By midnight they weigh at least 30 kilos. Needless to say, the event draws quite a crowd of people, all eager to feel the lick of the barrels’ flames.

5 November 2023 tarbarrels.co.uk

YI PENG LANTERN FESTIVAL

DEEPLY ROOTED IN the ancient Lanna kingdom and adapted from Brahmin origins, the popular festival of Yi Peng was initially celebrated as a singular event in its own right, marking the end of the blustery season and the start of winter. Now held concurrently with Loy Krathong, its date is based on the Lanna Lunar Calendar and its name indicates when the festival is celebrated, with Yi meaning ‘two’ and Peng meaning ‘full moon day’. Chiang Mai is the best place to experience Yi Peng, with beautifully decorated temples and houses adorned with small tea lights, hanging lanterns and colourful decorations throughout the city. The highlight of the festival is a mass lantern release which offers a spectacle of thousands of khom loi (sky lanterns) released into the night sky. At the start of Yi Peng, try to get close to the stage to see the opening ceremony conducted by chanting and meditating monks.

28 November 2023

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

THE SOMEWHAT SLEEPY LAKESIDE town of Pushkar, which borders the Thar Desert in the Ajmer region of the northeastern Indian state of Rajasthan, springs to life every year for a unique and incredibly colourful camel fair which coincides with the religious festival of Kartik Purnima . While the festival sees thousands of devotees bathe in Pushkar Lake on the pageant’s last day, close to 50,000 camels are trimmed, coiffured and decorated in order to be entered into beauty contests and raced. Adorned with silver bells and bangles around their hoofs and embellished with all manner of vibrant adornments, they are paraded past the golden sand dunes to an excited crowd and intense scrutinisation and judging. Aside from the thousands of camels also traded during the course of the fair, other livestock are haggled over, bought and sold, as well as local textiles, arts and crafts, saddles, jewellery and a variety of camel finery and embellishments.

20-28 November 2023.

rest your

TROMSØ ➤ SÃO PAULO ➤ MYKONOS ➤ SERENGETI

BRUSSELS ➤ CAPRI ➤ MELIDES ➤ SUMBA ➤ ROME

ST. PETERSBURG ➤ MAHÉ ➤ PLAYA DEL CARMEN

MOXY TROMSØ

FAMED FOR ITS BEAUTIFUL WINTER LANDSCAPES AND mesmerising Northern Light displays, with the summer months enjoying the midnight sun and 24/7 sunlight, Tromsø is something of an Artic playground and the gateway to a breathtaking array of adventures including husky sledding, whale safaris, cross-country skiing and cruising spectacular fjords. Northern Norway is also home to the indigenous Sámi people, who have lived in the region for centuries and survive by hunting, fishing, farming and reindeer husbandry. A buzzy little coastal city of just over 70,000 people, Tromsø is surrounded by raw nature which enchants visitors year-round.

Fusing fun with functionality and boasting spectacular uninterrupted views of the Sandnessundet strait in front of the hotel and mountains beyond, Moxy Tromsø combines stylish, industrial design and friendly

service at an accessible price point so that visitors to Northern Norway can splurge on their artic exploits. Conceptualised by Copenhagenbased Mette Fredskild Design studio, 208 compact yet well designed bedrooms feature super comfy beds laid with Frette linens, 55-inch flatscreens and walk-in showers. The Sea View Queen Rooms on the highest floors offer the best views.

Atop the hotel, Sky Bar Moxy is both the hotel’s front desk and its happening social heart, wrapped in floor-to-ceiling windows and open until 1am every day and 2am at the weekends. Every guest is welcomed with a signature cocktail and the bright space is decorated with playful murals by local artists Alice Kvalvik and Jonathan Broca. There’s also a small but well-equipped fitness centre in the hotel and pets are most welcome.

marriott.com

head

FROM AN ARCHITECTURALLY STRIKING MEXICAN RESORT RESEMBLING INTERTWINED CIRCLES INSPIRED BY THE PLEIADES STAR CLUSTER, TO CELEBRITY SHOE DESIGNER CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S FIRST FORAY INTO THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS OUT A DOZEN NEW PROPERTIES AROUND THE WORLD THAT OFFER MUCH MORE THAN YOUR AVERAGE HOTEL STAY

FASANO SÃO PAULO ITAIM

A MASSIVE MEGALOPOLIS OF MORE THAN 20 MILLION PEOPLE, not only is São Paulo the largest city in Brazil but it is also one of the largest on the planet. Characterised by its wide avenues and eye-catching skyscrapers, São Paulo is also the nation’s financial heart and an intensely cosmopolitan city with something for everyone, including an incredible culinary scene.

On the west side of the capital, sandwiched between the upper class district of Jardim Paulista and hip and trendy Vila Madalena, somewhat avant garde Itaim Bibi was once a mainly residential area. Today it is one of São Paulo’s coolest and most happening neighbourhoods, not to mention the business center of São Paulo, with buildings towering above Brigadeiro Faria Lima Avenue. However, Itaim Bibi is much more than just a business hub and boasts everything a cultured traveller could possibly wish for, including gourmet eateries, Michelin-starred restaurants, a range of boutiques and stores and an abundance of art galleries. In the heart of all this culture, Fasano Itaim opened a few months ago, bringing Gero Fasano’s hospitality brand back to the place it was born two decades earlier.

The first Fasano hotel opened in nearby Jardins in 2003. Located on Rua Pedroso Alvarenga, Fasano’s new hotel is its second in São Paulo and is as rich, warm and aesthetically pleasing as all of the brand’s other properties, which include outposts in Trancoso, Punta del Este and Manhattan.

Courtesy of talented architect Marcio Kogan, Fasano Itaim pays homage to the original São Paulo hotel while incorporating new elements as a nod to the passage of time between the two projects. Classic touches from the brand's Italian heritage abound throughout the hotel’s 107 rooms and public areas and 70 apartments in an adjacent residential building, punctuated by a skilfully curated mix of rugs, upholstered furniture, carefully considered lighting and contemporary flourishes.

Leisure facilities include a plush spa and wellness area with five treatment rooms, two saunas, a beauty salon and a state-of-the-art gym. A business centre with five meeting rooms caters to local multi-nationals. A 100-seat Gero restaurant features a terrace for indoor-outdoor eating and a private dining room for intimate parties of up to 20 guests. And crowning the hotel’s 20 floors is a relaxed bar and pool offering panoramic vistas of the surrounding cityscape. fasano.com.br

IMAGES:

DANIEL PINHEIRO

AMYTH OF MYKONOS

SOMETIMES COMPARED TO IBIZA BACK IN THE DAY, Mykonos is today renowned as something of a Greek party island, is LGBTIQA+ friendly and very open minded, and welcomes with open arms jetsetters, naturists, party animals, hippies and budget travellers alike. A number of its beaches host all-day parties during the summer and the bars and clubs filling its old town are usually pumping until the early hours, especially at the weekends. But despite Mykonos’ wild reputation, there are stunning sandy beaches, gorgeous rocky coves and authentic tavernas to be found, if you know where to look and you have a car to explore the island.

Close to the new port, offering views of adjacent Delos and Rhenia islands, Agios Stefanos Beach is popular but is not a “party beach” and is set within a relatively quiet bay. Despite being close to the port, the sea is crystal clear and the mood is relaxed.

Perched in the peaceful hills of Tourlos on the edge of Agios Stefanos village, overlooking the beach, earlier this year Cypriot family-run hotel group Thanos opened Amyth of Mykonos. The first of a new collection of design-led boutique properties defined by intimate and personalised service, the hotel offers guests authentic hospitality rooted in the local community.

Created in collaboration with GNB Architects which specialises in contemporary Cycladic architecture, the all-suite hotel sports a sleek Aegean-inspired design and skillfully captures the unique spirit of Mykonos. Calming earth-toned interiors, stone walls, handcrafted wooden furnishings and a natural colour palette honour the island’s heritage and nicely bed the hotel in the surrounding landscape.

Whilst the hotel’s 17 one-bedroom units range from luxe garden suites with private terraces to sea-view suites with private pools, jetted hot-tubs and panoramic ocean vistas, all offer a sense of a hedonistic hideaway in paradisiacal surroundings. And whether recovering from a night on the town or a day of sightseeing, guests feast on top-notch seasonal homemade fare at the onsite Amyth Kouzina restaurant, where dishes burst with the flavours of the Mediterranean.. amythhotels.com

SINGITA MARA RIVER TENTED CAMP

ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST ECOSYSTEMS – WITH ITS unique combination of weather, flora and fauna remaining relatively unchanged for over a million years – the Serengeti is nothing less than a living natural wonder shared between Tanzania and Kenya, and the annual 800-kilometre Great Migration of the immense wildebeest herd across its endless plains is one of the greatest natural spectacles on Earth. Undoubtedly one of Africa's biggest wildlife events, the Serengeti is brimming with life and action during these months, as some two million wildebeest move from the south and half a million calves are born. Massive groups of zebra and gazelle also make the same trek, which is dictated by reasonably predictable local rainfall patterns.

Located in the Lamai Triangle within a 98,000-acre concession in the northernmost tip of the Serengeti – which is an area that boasts one of

the highest year-round concentrations of wildlife – intimate Singita Mara River Tented Camp enjoys a remote exclusivity surrounded by untouched wilderness, close to one of the most famed crossing routes of the Great Migration.

Situated on a bend in the Mara River and one of the first in the area, the camp has just been transformed by a bold yet calm and contextual new look, which pays homage to the colourful palette and geometric motifs that are pivotal to Maasai culture. Intricate beadwork and patterns in saturated tones of blood red, ochre and indigo feature on furniture, art and accessories, while a soothing and grounding palette of foliageinspired greens and rich earthy browns allows the camp to merge with the wilderness. And the camp operates entirely off the grid, relying on a custom solar system for its power. singita.com

THE HOXTON, BRUSSELS

A RELATIVELY COMPACT CITY WHERE CULTURE AND modernity go hand-in-hand, beautiful architecture is evident at every turn in Brussels, with a concentration of gorgeous Art Nouveau buildings punctuating the neighbourhoods of Ixelles and Saint Gilles. The political heart of Europe is also brimming with numerous museums and countless art galleries and many of the city’s main attractions are close together, meaning that visitors can easily walk between them in one day. Warm, welcoming and underrated, rich in history, gastronomy, culture and hidden gems, there is always something going-on in the bustling Belgian capital, making it an excellent choice for a weekend city break.

Located in the capital’s Northern Quarter, which is essentially the city’s central business district, The Hoxton’s Brussels outpost opened last year and is ideally placed to explore the wider area and beyond, especially since nearby Brussels-Midi station is directly linked by rail to Paris, Amsterdam and London. The hotel’s neighbours also include KIOSK Radio – an independent station that also hosts regular open DJ sets from its iconic wooden shack at Parc Royal – and the city’s foremost cultural complex and music venue, Le Botanique.

Housed within Victoria Tower and bordering the botanical gardens, 198-room 70s-inspired Hoxton nods to the Brutalist building’s former life as the IBM headquarters and offers fluid, open-door hospitality, unique dining concepts and a striking aesthetic throughout its 22 floors. A lofty retro-styled double-height lobby welcomes guests on the ground floor, whilst a vibrant rooftop bar offers panoramic city vistas from the top of the tower.

Rooms are simply categorised as Cosy, Roomy and Biggy. All are a riot of retro tones and raw materials with lacquered finishes, velvet upholstery, marble accents, walnut cabinetry and graphic rugs framed by the original concrete window surrounds, while Instagrammable bathrooms feature pink washbasins and terrazzo flooring.

Best of all, the Hoxton is firmly rooted in its neighbourhood, and via partnerships with a variety of like-minded local brands, guests can experience the streets and scenes around the hotel with fresh eyes. This includes a partnership with urban electric bikes specialists Cowboy, and local running community Carbon Athletics, for those who prefer to pound Brussels' streets on foot. thehoxton.com

HOTEL LA PALMA

FOR MANY DISCERNING TRAVELLERS, VISITING THE picturesque island of Capri is an inimitable experience like no other. Set in the crystal-clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea in the Bay of Naples, just off the Sorrentine Peninsula in the southern Italian region of Campania, Capri is something of a jewel, famous not least for its splendid natural beauty. Yet the island’s rich history, dating back to Phoenician times, is every bit as alluring as its hidden coves, secluded beaches and stunningly beautiful scenery, and has been a source of inspiration for poets, artists and writers for centuries. An established holiday hot spot for royalty and celebrities, there’s a reason why so many super yachts are moored in Marina Grande and everyone from princesses and Italian actors to American billionaires and the nouveau riche rub shoulders in Piazza Umberto, affectionately known as the Piazetta.

A small bustling square at the epicentre of island life, it is impossible to visit Capri without passing through the Piazetta. Located just a few steps away and formerly known as Locanda Pagano, what is now Hotel La Palma was Capri’s very first hotel, having been built some two hundred years ago. Today, after an exhaustive renovation, is has been transformed by Oetker Collection and owners the Reuben Brothers into a supremely elegant 50-room property, including 18 suites, which nods to the island’s 1950s jet-set era.

Comprising two restaurants and bars, its own private beach club, a newly built pool deck, a sumptuous spa and extensive leisure facilities, the project was the first hotel designed by interior designer Francis Sultana, who collaborated with a number of acclaimed Italian craftsmen and local artisans to fashion a super-luxe Mediterranean retreat for the modern traveller, and establish Hotel La Palma as the chicest hospitality address on Capri. oetkercollection.com

VERMELHO MELIDES

A CHARMING HAVEN SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE WILD HILLS of Serra de Grândola and the crashing waves of the tempestuous Atlantic, Melides is located on the Alentejo coast some 130 kilometres south of Lisbon and a 20-minute drive from the coastal town of Comporta, which holidaymakers-in-the-know began descending upon around a decade ago.

A pretty white-washed town punctuated by blue-painted houses, a traditional church, a cobblestoned square and a covered central market, a little to the west of the centre, Melides’ large and beautiful lagoon cuts across the land and flows down to the beach, through the town’s pine forest, rice paddies and meadows, creating in its wake a verdant natural area rich in flora and fauna. Throughout Melides, the atmosphere is calm, friendly and easy-going. And whilst some new villas and designer houses have appeared along its lagoon in recent years, Melides is still mainly frequented by locals, to whom farmers and fishermen sell their fresh fish and produce.

Famed shoe designer Christian Louboutin first discovered Melides a dozen years ago, after injuring himself at his retreat in Comporta and chancing upon the village on his way back from Santiago do Cacém hospital. Since then, he has returned to Melides every summer to design his winter collection, staying at an old restored fisherman's house cum tranquil escape. Purpose-built palace-like Vermelho is Louboutin’s first commercial hospitality project and will not be his last in the area, but more about that later.

Unsurprisingly, 13-bedroom Vermelho is extravagant and eclectic in equal measure, although overarchingly welcoming and comfortable. Skilfully blending Spanish and Alentejo design with contemporary pops of colour

and trademark Louboutin red accents, the attention to detail is phenomenal. An exclusive yet friendly hotel open to the world, while celebrating Iberian savoir-faire and local traditions, the entire property showcases Louboutin's unique vision and love for art, design and culture, and the designer employed a number of artisans to bring it to life, including leading Italian sculptor Giuseppe Ducrot, who is responsible for the hotel’s extraordinary facades. Sure to attract fashionistas, creatives and design-forward globetrotters for years to come, Louboutin is planning to open another boutique hotel next year, adjacent to Lagoa de Melides. A third Louboutin-designed property, nestled amongst a nearby forest, is slated to open in 2025.

vermelhohotel.com

Christian Louboutin

CAP KAROSO

JUST AN HOUR’S FLIGHT FROM BALI BUT A WORLD AWAY in terms of popularity, the relatively unspoilt eastern Indonesian island of Sumba is affectionately known as the ‘forgotten island” and is something of a secret amongst adventurers and surfers in-the-know. For how long Sumba will remain a hidden gem no-one knows. But the pressures of tourism are sure to affect this wild and peaceful island before long, so the time to visit and experience its ancient indigenous Sumbanese culture is now.

The Sumbanese practice an animistic or “living" faith called Marapu , which is centered on honouring ancestral lineage, and they worship a combination of ancestors, natural spirits and an all-seeing, all-hearing god whose name must not be pronounced. A unique island where nature, culture, faith and its people live in harmony, Sumba is an intensely fascinating place to visit.

Sitting on the shores of a coral reef and surrounded by turquoise lagoons and traditional villages, Cap Karoso opened earlier this year and is a luxe launchpad for exploring Sumba.

Championing sustainability, culture and community through art and architecture, this eco-conscious haven comprises 47 studios and 20 villas, an array of inviting social spaces and a three-hectare organic farm and was the brainchild of ethically minded French founders Fabrice and Evguenia Ivara. The Ivaras were clear on their mission from the very start: to protect

Sumba’s natural treasures and respectfully share them with like-minded explorers. As such, every space throughout the property speaks to this mission, and sports architectural choices which minimise environmental impact, together with interiors that deftly blend the island’s unique culture with contemporary Indonesian artwork and a touch of modern Parisian flair. capkaroso.com

BULGARI HOTEL ROME

KNOWN AS THE ETERNAL CITY, ROME SOMEHOW MANAGES to routinely reinvent itself, constantly preserving its immense history while gently moving forwards into the future. And despite the millions of visitors which descend on the city annually, often making it an uncomfortable place to stay, particularly during the summer months when the crowds combined with the heat make it nigh on unbearable, Rome’s faded beauty is undoubtedly intensely breathtaking and is perhaps only matched by a handful of other European cities. With the ancient history of Italy literally embedded into every corner of Rome and its 14 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, there is quite literally something marvelous to see or delicious to eat around every corner of the Italian capital. Just avoid the summer!

Just a few months ago, Bulgari opened its first hotel in the city where the upscale Italian brand was born in 1884. Located in the Piazza Augusto Imperatore in the smart Campo Marzio neighbourhood, Bulgari Hotel Rome is literally a stone’s throw from historic Via del Corso, which dates back to at least 220 BCE (when it was called Via Lata) and is punctuated by some of the city’s best shopping and most historic buildings, not to mention direct access to a multitude of Rome’s main attractions.

The imposing building that houses the new hotel was designed by architect Vittorio Ballio Morpurgo, was built in the 1930s and was opened in 1950 by the then Italian prime minister as the headquarters of the Italian Social Security Agency. Today the building serves an altogether different purpose as a super-luxe hospitality palace of 114 rooms, many of them

suites, decorated in four different colour palettes - white, yellow, red and green. Every room enjoys midtown views over the piazza or charming Via della Frezza. And in true Italian style, guests are amply satiated by a selection of onsite restaurants, all curated by celebrated chef Niko Romito, who holds three Michelin stars for his restaurant in Abruzzo, Reale. bulgarihotels.com

THE VINOY RESORT AND GOLF CLUB

IF YOU CAN MANAGE TO TEAR YOURSELF AWAY FROM SOME of the best beaches in America, St. Petersburg is at the center of a region rich in arts and culture, including countless galleries, a thriving performing arts scene, film festivals, live music venues, a vibrant literary community and some world-class museums, including the striking Dalí Museum, set within a giant free-form geodesic glass bubble overlooking Tampa Bay. No less than seven distinct art districts together create an enticing cultural destination for visitors and residents alike. And beyond all the art and culture, sprawling white-sand beaches, stretching in both directions as far as the eye can see, offer refreshing Gulf breezes and fiery Florida sunsets. Replete with old school vibes and untouched natural beauty, there is literally something for everyone in St. Petersburg.

Less than a mile from both the St. Petersburg Pier and The Dalí Museum and an established and much-loved Florida hospitality landmark, The Vinoy Resort and Golf Club has served as the front porch of the St. Petersburg

community for nearly a century, and recently emerged from the first phase of a comprehensive top-to-bottom renovation courtesy of Rockwell Group led by architect Hart Howerton.

Recapturing the magic of Florida’s Golden Age and reflecting the resort’s rich heritage through a new refined yet sophisticated lens, the renovation included the hotel's veranda, grand lobby and guest rooms, as well as its historic ballrooms and restaurants. In the process, new international dining destinations and a sumptuous new full-service spa were also added.

Being listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places and a member of Historic Hotels of America, not to mention part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, every detail of the pink property was carefully considered by a respected historian who was on hand throughout the restoration process. The result is a deeply storied resort hotel offering modern travellers every facility and luxury, whilst remaining rooted in its storied past and heralding the start of a new chapter in its history. thevinoy.com

LAÏLA

TRANSLATING TO “ROYAL BAY” IN ENGLISH, ANSE ROYALE is a calm and somewhat beautiful beach village, bordered by a stunning white-sand beach on the south-eastern coast of Mahé. Within the Seychelles – also affectionately known as the land of perpetual summer – Anse Royale is famous for the lush 25-hectare spice estate of Jardin Du Roi, where dozens of varieties of exotic and aromatic spices are grown. Meanwhile the waters lapping the shores of Anse Royale are home to a myriad of colourful coral fish, making this part of the island one of the best for snorkelers.

Set within the serenity of a natural botanical paradise, Laïla is a boutique sanctuary that connects travellers with the spirit of the Seychelles and offers the perfect base from which to explore the island. An oasis-like resort located close to Anse Royal, Laïla’s mission is to showcase Mahé’s hidden gems for globetrotters who revel in unique, independent experiences and crave a connection with the local community when travelling. Designed by Dubai-based MMAC Design, the resort sports a harmoniously calming colour palette, complemented by bold pops of green which pay homage to the beautiful tropical surroundings. Intricate detailing throughout is a hallmark of the property’s 76 guest rooms and 8 suites, all of which are decorated with nature-inspired aesthetics, including handwoven macramé headboards and room dividers fashioned from wood and rattan. The Senior Suite boasts a private plunge pool and spacious terrace overlooking the Indian Ocean and surrounding mountains.

Five restaurants and bars, a watersports centre, outdoor swimming pool, 24/7 gym, spa and barber shop are some of the onsite facilities, while the resort’s expansive activity offerings draw upon the Seychellois spirit to immerse guests in the destination, with jungle hikes, fishing expeditions to neighbouring islands, Creole cooking classes and evenings around the bonfire dancing to Moutya music just a few of the guest experiences offered. marriott.co.uk

A true local experience for inspired cosmopolitans

THE ST. REGIS KANAI RESORT

LOCATED 30 MINUTES’ DRIVE FROM CANCUN, TEN MINUTES from downtown Playa del Carmen and next door to the Sian Ka'an Reserve nature reserve, boasting year-round tropical weather, Kanai is a 680-acre gated community located in the heart of Riviera Maya on Mexico’s northeastern Yucatán Peninsula.

Previously inhabited by the Maya people for more than a millennium, Sian Ka'an was protected as a biosphere reserve in 1986, when the Mexican government recognised that uncontrolled development would have a devastating effect on the region. An awe-inspiring area of natural beauty and a UNESCO World Heritage site, Sian Ka'an is today home to just 2,000 residents and thousands of species of flora and fauna within tropical forests, marshes and mangroves.

Suspended over a mangrove forest on a pristine stretch of beach in Kanai and connected by elevated walkways to ensure a minimal ecological footprint, a series of architecturally striking buildings make-up the newest

and possibly the most eye-catching ever St. Regis resort to open its glamorous seaside doors.

Resembling intertwined circles and semi-circles inspired by the Pleiades cluster of stars, which holds special meaning in ancient Maya culture, the resort was designed by Mexican firm Edmonds International and is punctuated by avant-garde architecture and slick yet inviting interiors.

124 lavishly appointed guest rooms and 19 suites each offer mesmerising ocean views and a private terrace or plunge pool. All are anchored by beautiful carved wood accent walls, reminiscent of ancient Mayan tapestries, and feature design elements and rich materials evoking the surrounding natural elements, together with custom furnishings and St. Regis' signature butler service.

The hotel’s signature restaurant – Latin-inspired TORO – is helmed by celebrated chef Richard Sandoval, and there are a further seven restaurant and bar venues dotted throughout the sprawling but stunningly beautiful complex. stregis.com/kanai

THE GRAND DAME AT THE GATEWAY TO ANGKOR

Wat’s spectacular temples and ruins, Grand Hotel d’Angkor has welcomed everyone from Charlie Chaplin to Jackie Kennedy and Michelle Obama during the past 90 years. The last bastion of Cambodia’s Golden Age of Travel, the hotel is deeply rooted in local culture whilst retaining its colonial charm, heritage and architectural grandeur. Home to 119 deluxe guest rooms and suites, the hotel boasts a number of restaurants and bars and a wealth of leisure facilities, all set within 15 acres of lush tropical gardens.

Originally opening its doors in 1932 to provide the first wave of Angkor explorers with luxury lodgings, the property was lovingly restored and reopened in 1997 by Raffles Hotels and Resorts, and today encompasses the brand's inherent sense of style and adventure, including one of Cambodia’s most iconic swimming pools. Some 35 metres long, the pool was modelled after the ancient bathing pools of Angkor.

A veritable treasure trove of stories, history and myth, Grand Hotel d’Angkor is located just 15 minutes’ drive from Siem Reap International Airport and the same distance from Angkor Wat, making it the perfect base from which to explore everything that the richly storied area has to offer.

rafflessiemreap.com

a super-luxe stay at raffles grand hotel d'angkor in siem reap

PRIZE DRAW

THE LUCKY WINNER OF OUR NINTH ANNIVERSARY PRIZE DRAW WILL STAY FOR FOUR NIGHTS IN A GORGEOUS SUITE WITHIN THE HOTEL’S ORIGINAL BUILDING AND ENJOY DAILY CHAMPAGNE BREAKFASTS FOR TWO PEOPLE; ONE THREE-COURSE DINNER INCLUDING WINES; RAFFLES LEGENDARY BUTLER SERVICE; VINTAGE LIMOUSINE AIRPORT TRANSFERS ON ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE, AND A VESPA TOUR OF ANGKOR WAT FOR TWO

GENEVA

EUROPEAN ELEGANCE WITH A GLOBAL OUTLOOK

CITY FOCUS

GENEVA

FROM UNDER-THE-RADAR RESTAURANTS AND FAMILY RUN WINERIES TO CENTURIES-OLD WATCHMAKERS AND THE ANCIENT CHATEAUX THAT LINE THE SHORES OF LAKE GENEVA, SWITZERLAND’S SECOND LARGEST CITY EXUDES AN EFFORTLESS STYLE. JOE MORTIMER DELVES INTO THE HISTORICAL EVENTS THAT LEFT A LONG LEGACY OF PEACE AND DIPLOMACY

IT’S A BALMY SATURDAY MORNING IN mid-July and the thin ribbon of pebbly beach at Geneva’s Bains des Pâquis is quickly filling up with solitary sun-bathers and bronzed couples. Groups of friends huddle in the cool clear waters of Lake Geneva as the occasional swan drifts silently past. Nearby, the city’s iconic water fountain, the Jet d’Eau, shoots a torrent of water skywards that dissolves into a curtain of rainbow mist. On the far shore, green slopes begin their long ascent into the Alps, but all eyes are focused on the lake, the vast crescent of impossibly clear water that arcs from Geneva in the west to Montreux in the east, where it’s fed by the glacial waters of the Rhône.

LIFE IN GENEVA REVOLVES AROUND THE LAKE. Its calm expanse is a playground for pleasure seekers who ply its waters in sailing boats and Belle Époque paddle steamers, and a focal point for the villas and

chateaux that line its banks, owned by some of the wealthiest families in the world: Château de Pregny (the Rothschilds), Manoir Colgate (of toothpaste fame), Villa Barakat (former home of the Aga Khan and US President Ronald Regan’s home-from-home during Cold War talks with Gorbachev) and Villa Diodati, where Mary Shelley dreamed up Frankenstein in the summer of 1816.

Stroll along the south shore, past the rooftop signage of homegrown watchmakers Patek Philippe and Rolex, past the Jardin Anglais and the 140-metre torrent of the Jet d’Eau, and the marinas quickly give way to beaches where pop-up food stalls and waterfront bars set the scene for languorous evenings and the ordered formality of downtown Geneva dissipates. Lake Geneva –or Lac Léman if you live along the French section of the lakeshore – is as much a state of mind as it is a body of water, a constant grounding presence in a city of resolute fluidity.

I PONDER THE LAKE’S SIGNIFICANCE WHILE strolling along the Right Bank the next morning, past the parade of luxury hotels that have welcomed wealthy visitors and diplomats since the 1800s. Here’s the Hotel Beau-Rivage, where Empress Sisi of Austria spent the night before she was assassinated by an Italian anarchist in 1898. There’s the Hotel d’Angleterre, whose lake-view suites have wooed guests since 1872 and the ornate, postHaussmann architecture of The Woodward, the last of the original on this prestigious strip.

The Neo-Renaissance façade of Palais Wilson –formerly the Hôtel National and now home to the Office of the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights – marks the end of old Geneva and beginning of the International District, where diplomats and consuls have traded signatures and secrets since the League of Nations, precursor to the United Nations, was established here in 1920.

THE FACT THAT LAKE GENEVA, RATHER THAN Lac Léman, has become the preferred term among most Swiss is a linguistic coup that reflects the city’s heft on the global stage and its role as bastion of diplomacy and peacekeeping: a reputation it began to assert with the formation of the International Committee of the Red Cross and the signing of the first Geneva Convention in 1864.

Today, as the European headquarters of the UN, Geneva is home to more than 200 international organisations and NGOs; global bodies like the World Health Organisation, the World Trade Organisation,

Bains des Pâquis

Palais des Nations

Vieille-Ville

the Red Cross and the International Telecommunication Union, which regulates the internet and 5G technology worldwide. The flags of all 193 UN member nations (and two observer nations) flutter from flagpoles outside the Palais des Nations, and there’s a delicious irony in the fact that Geneva, second city of a country whose foreign policy mandates neutrality, is the de facto capital of the organisations that regulate global affairs. Geneva’s transformation from lakeside village to international city began long before this 20th century global gathering. In the 1500s, the city was already becoming an important trading hub and a gateway to Europe, where powerful Italian families like the Medicis

began Geneva’s long history of private banking, and watchmakers, chocolatiers and fashion houses set up workshops and ateliers. Everyone wanted a piece of Geneva’s lucrative pie, including the Duke of Saxony, whose foiled 1602 invasion is celebrated each December in the Fête de l’Escalade.

IN 1535, ST. PIERRE CATHEDRAL WAS GROUND zero for John Calvin’s Protestant Reformation, which not only changed the history of Europe, but also laid the foundations for Capitalism and saw the emergence of characteristics that continue to define Geneva today: modesty, discipline, education and charity. Inside,

LAKEFRONT LUXURY

Geneva, in pure bliss.

the original Roman Catholic elements – the elaborate altars, saintly sculptures and other finery – were removed under Calvin, leaving the austere walls bare, so that the congregation could focus on the teachings of the bible. Climb the 157 steps to the top of the towers for close-ups of the cathedral’s green gothic spire and eclectic architecture, and sweeping views across the red-tiled rooftops of the old city on one side and Lake Geneva on the other.

The movement’s strict moral code also looked down on extravagant displays of wealth and ostentatious jewellery, leaving room for the elaboration of other more practical attire. And so it was that Geneva’s industry entered a new era, starting a fascination with precision and craftsmanship that would make household names of family run watchmakers and define the city for generations to come. Today, the Geneva Seal is a hallmark of quality known globally and the city is home to the most important horological exhibitions in the world, including Watches and Wonders, which takes place each Spring.

ST. PIERRE

CATHEDRAL REMAINS

THE

SPIRITUAL

and physical heart of Geneva’s medieval Old Town – the Vieille-Ville – whose quiet cobbled alleyways, charming courtyards and hidden passageways are home to some of the most storied buildings in the city. A few steps away, the unassuming exterior of the Hôtel de Ville – the seat of government for the Canton and Republic of Geneva – conceals an Escher-esque courtyard of monumental marble columns, ornate balustrades and a zig-zagging ramp that allowed councillors to ride up without dismounting their horses.

At the back of this profoundly atmospheric space, you can peer into the Alabama Room where, in 1872, a conflict between the US and the UK concerning the actions of the CSS Alabama warship during the American Civil War, was resolved, giving the historic room its name and establishing Geneva’s role as a mediator in global affairs. Prior to that, the founding members of the newly formed International Committee of the Red Cross signed the first Geneva Convention in 1864, which formalised the rights of wounded combatants and those providing aid during armed conflict.

Where the Rhône meets the Arve

IMAGE: © GENÈVE TOURISME

IT WAS PERHAPS THIS AGREEMENT MORE THAN anything else that laid the foundations for Geneva’s role as global peacekeeper. Today, the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum, which doubles as the organisation’s global headquarters, is found among the broad, leafy streets of the International District, sandwiched between the sprawling diplomatic compounds of the US and Russia, a stone’s throw from UNICEF and the Palais des Nations. Inside, the permanent collection tells the remarkable tale of how the organisation was created, from the seed of an idea had by Swiss businessman Henry Dunant, to that moment in the Alabama Room in 1864, and goes on to detail the organisation’s humanitarian efforts today. It’s poignant, powerful and an essential stop on any Genevan itinerary.

THE PALAIS DES NATIONS MIGHT HAVE BEEN built on the shore of Lake Geneva itself, restricting access to the lakeside idyll for anyone without the necessary security clearance, if it wasn’t for the efforts of British heiress Alexandra Barton-Peel, who inherited her father’s estate in 1895. When she was invited to sell the estate to make way for the new League of Nations headquarters, including pretty Villa Barton and the 30 giant sequoia trees that dotted the grounds, she refused, and in so doing, preserved access to the lakeshore for future generations.

When she finally bequeathed the estate to the Swiss Confederation in 1935, it was on the condition that the sequoia trees, planted by her father, would be lovingly maintained in perpetuity. Though it now belongs to the Geneva Graduate Institute, the grounds of the original Barton estate are open to all, and the giant sequoias remain a much-loved part of the city.

Some of Geneva's vineyards

IMAGE: © GENÈVE TOURISME, OLIVIER MICHE

SO STEEPED IN HISTORY IS THE VIEILLE-VILLE that it’s possible to forget that Geneva is set in a spectacular natural amphitheatre framed by Alpine peaks. To put things into perspective, I set off for Mount Salève, the closest mountain to Geneva. Technically it’s in France, but borders and national identity are somewhat fluid in Geneva, where the population swells from just over 200,000 to more than 300,000 everyday thanks to the influx of transnational workers who live in France. Of the full-time residents, only around 60% are Swiss, the

balance made up of the international community who call this global city home.

Up here, on the ‘Balcony of Geneva’, a network of hiking trails criss-crosses the Alpine landscape, a dreamy patchwork of wildflower meadows and shaded woodland where butterflies and the gentle clanging of cow bells fill the rarefied air. To the east, the Alps rise up in all their glory, green hillsides merging into a mass of dark peaks and snowy summits, crowned by the ghostly outline of Mont Blanc in the distance.

CULINARY EXPERTISE IN GENEVA

Since 2012, Michelin-starred Chef Michel Roth (Meilleur Ouvrier de France and Bocuse d'Or 1991) has been orchestrating the culinary operations at Hotel President as the Executive Chef and Culinary Advisor.

The hotel features 3 restaurants: the renowned Bayview by Michel Roth (a Michelin 1-star gastronomic restaurant, rated 18/20 by Gault-Millau), the seasonal Rive Droite by Michel Roth (Mediterranean restaurant) open from May to September, and the unmissable Arabesque (traditional Lebanese restaurant, rated 14/20 by Gault-Millau).

Renowned for its excellence in hosting international events, conferences and weddings, Hotel President offers all the necessary comfort and professionalism for organizing bespoke high-end receptions, under

ABOUT HOTEL PRESIDENT

Hotel President, the Luxury Collection Hotel, Geneva, is a 5* hotel with 201 rooms and 25 suites, ideally located on the bank shore of Lake Geneva.

• 3 Restaurants (Bayview, Rive Droite, Arabesque)

• 3 Bars(Glow, SO, Rive Droite)

• 13 meeting spaces totaling more than 20’000 SQMT including Geneva biggest room of 10’000 SQMT

• The biggest and luxuriest Suite in Europe, the Royal Penthouse Suite (18’000 SQMT)

• Floor to ceiling windows with Lake views

• Spa «La Mer», exlusive in Switzerland

• 6’5000 SQMT terrace with heated pool facing the Hotel President, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Geneva 47 Quai Wilson, 1201 Genève - +41 (0) 22 906 66 66

Informations & Reservations : resa@hotelpresident.ch

BELOW, GENEVA FANS OUT AROUND THE southern shores of the lake and sprawls westward past the point where the Rhône meets the Arve and the two rivers mingle in an inky swirl of two-toned greenery. On the far side of the valley, the south-facing vineyards of the Jura unfold along emerald hillsides, home to generations of family winemakers. Switzerland keeps a tight lid on its winemaking industry, which is small in comparison to those of its neighbours, but between Geneva and the Cantons of Vaud and Valais, it produces some exceptional wines; light reds based largely around pinot noir and gamay grapes, and a variety of whites ranging from steely sauvignon blanc and aromatic pinot gris to rich viognier and aged chardonnay.

HIGH UP IN THE VILLAGE OF SATIGNY, CLOS DU Chateau’s 400-year-old farmhouse looks out across 28 hectares of vineyards growing 13 different grape varieties, including gamaret and garanoir, Swiss hybrids created in the 1970s for the Alpine climate. Its modern winery was rebuilt in 2010 and now produces 16 different wines including delectable single varietals and award-winning blends. In Dardigny, Domaine Les Hutins makes an enormous variety of wines for a small winery, capitalising on the year-round sunshine and cool climate to produce high quality reds like pinot noir and its terrific vielles vignes gamay, and fruity dry whites including Genevan summer favourite chasselas.

One of Geneva's mouette boats on the lake

LIKE ITS WINES, GENEVA’S FOOD SCENE IS

low-key but exceptionally good, with a penchant for scenic open-air dining in parks and gardens, and Old Town cafes that spill out onto leafy squares. Steps from the monumental statues of Reformation Wall – hewn by a duo of sculptors including Paul Landowski, who created Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro – Le Kiosque des Bastions is a modern brasserie in Bastions Park that also happens to mix the perfect Negroni bastions.ch; Cottage Café serves unpretentious Mediterranean and Middle East-inspired cuisine overlooking the gothic mausoleum of the Duke of Brunswick, built in thanks for the substantial fortune he bequeathed to the city cottagecafe.ch; and La Potinière is a smart seasonal restaurant nestled in the people-watching lakeside paradise of Jardin Anglais. lapotinieregeneve.com

Delicate lake perch fillets served à la meunière are a speciality at restaurants like the wonderful Le Café du Centre, whose smartly dressed waiters have bustled around the Place du Molard since 1933, and the city’s innumerable chocolatiers have Switzerland’s hardy cows to thank for their exceptional quality. cafeducentre.ch The cows must also take credit for Switzerland’s national dish: fondue. Typically made with equal parts melted Gruyère and Vacherin cheeses – known colloquially as moitié-moitié ; half and half – and served with boiled potatoes and bread for dipping, there are few more social dining experiences than huddling with friends around a steaming fondue pot.

RUNNING A GREAT RESTAURANT, OR INDEED

A great hotel, means doing lots of little things to

perfection: balancing the creative and fraught behindthe-scenes activity with a warm welcome and the elegant surrounds at front-of-house. Geneva seems to have mastered both. From the 200 public water fountains around town and the yellow mouette boats that shuttle passengers across the lake, to the manicured parks and irresistible window displays of family run chocolatiers, everything is fine-tuned and well presented. Yet behind the scenes, discretion, modesty and confidentiality –prized attributes among diplomats, humanitarians and hoteliers alike – seem to have shaped and characterised life in Geneva, from the collaborative efforts of the international community to the vineyards and mountains that surround it. At the heart of it all, Lake Geneva: a vital, calming presence that roots visitors and locals alike and where, come what may, all are equal. geneve.com

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE

ONE OF THE CITY’S MOST ESTABLISHED, WELL-KNOWN and much-loved properties, 150-year-old Hotel d’Angleterre has been welcoming royalty, celebrities and heads of state through its glamorous doors since the early 1870s (including Michael Jackson and President Gorbachev) and is very much a Genevan landmark boasting a rich and storied history. Perched on the edge of the lake and deftly combining British elegance with genuine Swiss hospitality, this charismatic grand dame exudes an inimitable sense of opulence throughout its elegant public spaces and welcomes loyal regulars and international visitors year-round.

As locations go, the position of the d’Angleterre is as good as it gets –directly opposite the city’s famous Jet d’Eau with magnificent snow-capped Mont Blanc beyond, just across the road from the Bain des Pâquis and a short boat ride on a mouette or glorious 15-minute lakeside stroll to the Vieille-Ville. The d’Angleterre is essentially within walking distance of pretty much everything that Geneva has to offer a cultured traveller.

Presided over by charming raconteur Jean-Vital Domezon, who has been the hotel’s general manager for more than a decade and leads a dedicated and friendly team, the d’Angleterre is home to a range of sumptuous, individually styled rooms and suites, all bedecked in exquisite art and elegant furnishings and complemented by marble-lined bathrooms. Don’t be surprised to wake-up next to a signed Picasso or write your postcards on a priceless antique desk, for the entire hotel has been lovingly decorated with excellent no-expense-spared taste. Book the Bellevue Suite for a private balcony at the front, facing the Jet d’Eau, large enough to sit with a friend, sip champagne in the sunshine, and watch the boats go by.

Guests soak in panoramic lake vistas while dining on refined international cuisine at Windows restaurant; sip single malts and handcrafted cocktails while revelling in the nightly live music in Leopard Bar (which also happens to be one of the city’s most popular night-time venues), and quietly relax with a Cohiba in the hotel’s plush, smoke-free cigar lounge. And whilst the d’Angleterre is the only hotel in Geneva that serves British afternoon tea, it also offers an array of curated guest experiences courtesy of a superb concierge team that happily arranges personalised trips to local vineyards and the finest chocolatiers in the city. It’s all about standout service, genuine hospitality and attention to detail at Hotel d’Angleterre.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU dangleterrehotel.com

CITY FOCUS GENEVA

HÔTEL LES ARMURES

TUCKED

AWAY IN THE HEART OF GENEVA’S VIEILLE-VILLE

and steps from St. Pierre Cathedral, Hôtel les Armures blends the polished sheen of a luxury boutique with the warm familiarity of a private residence. Built in 1679, the building was originally a printing workshop that thrummed with commissions from the bankers, merchants and craftsmen pouring into Geneva at the time. Parts of the original building were preserved during a major restoration and extension in 1957, and many of the 32 guestrooms and suites now feature vintage elements including sections of the old walls.

The Cultured Traveller’s room features timbered ceilings and a walled archway of original brickwork, with modern furnishings and a spacious bathroom. A north-facing window opens onto a leafy square, with a lovely fountain next to a stone staircase that leads down towards the luxury boutiques and brasseries of Rue du Rhône and Place du Molard.

When the bells of St. Pierre chime, you feel every bit like you’re in the historic heart of the city and guests routinely fall in love with the old-world charm of the place – the heavy door keys left on a cushioned tray on the

reception desk as you leave, and the wood-panelled elevator with its velvet sofa and mosaic floors. But after a few days walking around the city, it’s the location that sets Hôtel les Armures apart.

Just around the corner, Maison Tavel is one of the city’s oldest buildings, a 12th century private residence that’s now home to an urban history museum full of medieval artifacts and an astonishingly detailed scale model of the old walled city. Opposite is the open-air Old Arsenal, where ancient cannons are lined up on the cobbles in front of three spectacular frescoes depicting the history of the city. One street over is the magnificent Hôtel de Ville, home of Geneva’s government, where some of the city’s most symbolic events have taken place.

Les Armures has plenty of historical cachet of its own, with a guest book that includes US presidents and Hollywood royalty. By day, the sunny terrace outside Café les Armures welcomes a who’s who of Geneva society, and by night, its much-loved restaurant serves some of the best fondue and raclette in Geneva in a cosy chalet-style dining room.

JOSEPH MORTIMER lesamures.ch

THE FIRST TIME I SAW LILY SAVAGE, I also met the man behind the make-up. It was 1987 and Lily was on stage at the Royal Vauxhall Tavern in London. I was with my friend and flat-mate Vaughan Michael Williams, a fellow performer who knew Paul O’Grady from the gay cabaret circuit.

I’d never seen a drag act quite like Lily before – sharp tongued and ferociously funny, but a fully rounded character, with a back story you could invest in. That sharp tongue had come in handy a few months earlier, when the police famously raided the Tavern wearing rubber gloves. It was the height of the AIDS crisis and police harassment was rife. Lily was on stage when the police stormed in. Quick as a flash, she quipped that they’d come to help with the washing up. When they began arresting people on the dubious charge of being drunk in a pub, she urged the crowd to resist and was promptly taken into police custody. Asked for his name by the desk sergeant, O’Grady replied “Lily Savage”. Pressed to give his real name, he replied “Lily Veronica Mae Savage.” Such is the stuff of which queer resistance is made. This rebellious spirit never left him.

A few years later, our mutual friend Vaughan was diagnosed with an AIDSrelated illness and I was organising a fundraiser on behalf of the AIDS activist group ACT-UP. Paul was one of the first to lend his support. It’s often forgotten that when the AIDS crisis first began, it was drag queens who did much of the leg work, organising and performing at fundraisers and generally raising awareness. Without them, many AIDS charities simply wouldn’t have ever existed.

LIKE MANY GAY MEN OF HIS generation, O’Grady lost a lot of friends to AIDS. He later recalled being on stage at the Royal Vauxhall Tavern and seeing all the men in their funeral suits. “People my age will never get over the horrors,” he said. He appeared in the AIDS play Elegies for Angels, Punks and Raging Queens at the King’s Head Theatre in Islington and spoke out about the AIDS-fuelled homophobia of the late ’80s, most notably the introduction of Section 28, which forbade the “promotion of homosexuality as a pretended family relationship.” There was nothing pretended about O’Grady’s relationship with Brendan Murphy, who was both his long-term lover and business partner until his death in 2005.

paul o’grady

FROM DRAG TO RICHES

A STALWART OF THE UK GAY SCENE, PAUL O’GRADY FIRST FOUND FAME AS “BLONDE BOMB-SITE” LILY SAVAGE. DURING A CAREER LASTING FOUR DECADES, HE PROCEEDED TO TAKE BRITISH PUB DRAG MAINSTREAM, WHILST EARNING NATIONAL TREASURE STATUS. PAUL BURSTON PAYS TRIBUTE TO A MUCH-LOVED MAN WHO NEVER FORGOT HIS ROOTS

Even as he climbed the dizzy heights of daytime television and mainstream success, O’Grady never lost sight of where he came from – whether it was his working-class upbringing in Birkenhead, or his years in drag as “the blonde bomb site” who gave him his first taste of fame.

I first interviewed O’Grady in 1990 for a London listings magazine called City Limits. He spoke about the realities of being a drag performer – the dressing rooms that doubled as public toilets, and the rowdy punters who needed to be kept in line. The pull quote for the piece was, “There’s no room for sissies in this business” – and he was right about that. It’s a tough job being a drag queen, but O’Grady was made of stern stuff. Raised in a workingclass Irish migrant family, he worked as a cleaner, waiter and peripatetic care officer for Camden Social Services before creating the character of Lily

Savage. He first performed as Lily at The Black Cap drag pub in Camden in 1978. Drag gave him confidence. “I wanted to get up there but be larger than life,” he once said. “A creature that was more cartoon than human.” He also trained as a fire eater, which tells you something about the character of the man.

As one of the founding editors of Attitude magazine in the mid 90s, one of the first pieces I commissioned was an “at home with Lily Savage.” The interview and photo shoot took place at Paul’s council flat on South Lambeth Road, where Lily was pictured scrubbing the kitchen floor with fellow comedy character and her supposed boyfriend Bob Downe. Few could have predicted then that the scrubber in leopard print with a cigarette dangling from her mouth was bound for mainstream stardom. But Lily was

a star from the start. It just took a few years for the wider world to catch on.

THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL WAS

Lily’s launching pad into the mainstream. “The Edinburgh Festival changed my life,” O’Grady once said. “The experience opened doors for me that would otherwise have been firmly closed, exposing me to a much wider audience than I’d previously been used to.”

Nominated for a Perrier Award in 1992, he began his television career on Channel 4, appearing as Lily on the lesbian and gay magazine programme Out on Tuesday and the late night comedy show Viva Cabaret! He made a cameo appearance in the Channel 4 soap Brookside and even had his own late-night series, Live from the Lilydrome. And then came The Big Breakfast

It still amazes and amuses me to think that viewers were treated to Lily Savage in all her glory on British breakfast television. Her creator may have toned down the language, but there was no toning down the look. With her towering blonde wig, black roots and thigh high boots, there was no mistaking the kind of woman Lily was supposed to be – hard bitten and tough as nails, with a shady past and a heart of gold. O’Grady based her on the working-class women he admired growing up, including his own mother, and his aunty who worked as a bus conductor. There was also a bit of Bet Lynch, the barmaid at the Rovers Return on Coronation Street, who shared Lily’s taste in leopard print and towering blonde hairdos.

i dress up as a middle-aged prostitute and do a game show

Paul O’Grady

From breakfast television to primetime TV, the next big step in Lily’s rise was the popular quiz show Blankety Blank, where she took over from housewives’ favourite Terry Wogan. Outtakes from the recording show that she didn’t always succeed in biting her tongue and let slip the odd expletive here and there.

THEN THERE WERE THE LIVE specials – stage productions filmed before a live audience, which brought out the best in O’Grady as a performer. I still have many of them on DVD and they’re just as funny now as they were back then. Lily channelling Marlene Dietrich with a lamppost tied to her mac is one of the finest comedy skits I’ve ever seen.

O’GRADY RETIRED LILY AT THE start of the new millennium and began presenting travel documentaries for ITV. Then in 2004 he launched his own daytime chat show. The Paul O’Grady Show ran for five years, first on ITV and later on Channel 4. The man who’d found fame as an unapologetic, potty mouthed drag queen was now the king of daytime TV. Later he diversified further, presenting For The Love of Dogs, Blind Date and Paul O’Grady’s Great British Escape, as well as his own radio show.

IN LATER LIFE, HE BECAME AN ambassador for animal welfare, adopting as many dogs as he could and helping to find forever homes for many more. He also published four volumes

of a memoir, the first of which ended before Lily was even born. Unlike a lot of celebrity memoirs, the books were well written and well received. Even Private Eye had nothing but praise.

THE LAST TIME I SAW PAUL WAS A decade or so ago. We were at the annual Pride reception at Downing Street. As we made our way out, he stopped to look at a portrait of Margaret Thatcher hung on the wall before making his feelings about her abundantly clear.

Later, we went to a pub across the road. I mentioned to him that my mum was a big fan. “C’mon, then” he said. “Call her. You know you want to.” So I did. They spoke for a few minutes. Mum was so made up. She still talks about it to this day.

WHEN A FAMOUS PERSON DIES, the internet is invariably awash with stories, both good and bad. When the news broke that Paul had passed, there was an outpouring of love and sympathy and not an unkind word was said. People cited examples of his kindness, his campaigning on behalf of LGBTQ+ people, his love of animals and his contempt for politicians he considered cruel or corrupt. They described the joy and laughter he brought to their lives and expressed their condolences to his husband, Andre, and his daughter from a previous relationship. Everyone, it seemed, loved Paul O’Grady. From “blonde bomb-site” to national treasure, he remained true to his roots and was a gentleman to the end. That’s a legacy to be proud of.

to take any animal into your life will inevitably end in heartache, but you don't worry about the hangover when you're at the party

Paul O’Grady

Paul O'Grady with Queen Camilla

Paul O'Grady as Miss Hannigan in Annie, 2023

THE XIGERA SUITE

➤ XIGERA SAFARI LODGE, BOTSWANA

suite envy an okavango experience like no other

TESTAMENT TO THE HARMONIOUS COEXISTENCE OF HOSPITALITY, LUXURY AND NATURE, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS INTO XIGERA SAFARI LODGE’S PREMIER SUITE AND LEAVES THE MOREMI GAME RESERVE, THREE DAYS LATER, COMPLETELY SMITTEN

GAZING TOWARDS AN ENCHANTING expanse of partly flooded plains, I spot a large, solitary male elephant, perhaps 200 metres away, casually grazing, his trunk delicately plucking grasses. Colossal yet exuding an aura of tranquil authority, he seems as calm and contented as the spa therapist in front of me, with whom I’m chit-chatting during a foot treatment, when she says, “it's truly a blessing to work here.” Her name is Tsaone, she had previously worked at two other safari camps and she is almost certainly the most delightful, natural and sincere therapist I have ever met at a spa. She proceeds to tell me how well she is treated by her colleagues; she talks about the quality of life she enjoys, and she speaks incredibly highly of the Tollman family, which owns and runs Xigera, very much hands-on. Until recently staying at a Red Carnation property (the hotel group of which Xigera is part) I had never, ever heard staff speak so highly about their hotel’s owners. Yet Tsaone’s comments are symbolic of everyone I meet during my stay at Xigera, with my standout experience beginning the moment I land at Maun airport, before being helicoptered into the middle of the magical Okavango Delta, home to one of Africa’s most diverse concentrations of wildlife.

SOON AFTER TAKING-OFF FROM MAUN, AS WE fly low over seemingly endless expanses of semi-arid terrain and undulating grasslands, I spot a female elephant and a calf sticking close to its mother. These are the first animals I see in the landlocked southern African country of Botswana, and to me, they are a remarkably fitting first sighting. Representing two

generations, the two elephants tell the same story as Xigera, which passed into the care of the Tollmans four years earlier and was thence given a new lease of life, having been first opened by Wilderness Safaris in the mid-1980s. For Xigera’s tale is one of renewal, rebirth and family legacy, not to mention the pioneering spirit that drives adventurous globetrotters to seek out Africa's untamed spaces and get up-close-and-personal with the spectacular wildlife that roams primordial landscapes in some of the planet’s most pristine reserves, of which Moremi is one.

LYING ON THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE OKAVANGO

Delta and named after the chief of the Setswanaspeaking Batawana tribe, when it was created in 1963, Moremi was designated a game reserve (rather than a national park) so that the bushmen who lived there could remain. It is the Delta’s oldest and first protected reserve and covers almost 5,000 square kilometres. Combining permanent bodies of water with far drier, barren areas, which creates some extraordinary contrasts in the reserve’s flora, fauna and animals, where the land and

Delta meet is an overpowering preserve of seasonal and perennial floodplains. If truth be told, the unique aura of the place strikes me almost immediately I am skimming above it, surveying the incredible scenery below, pretty much speechless. And it is not long before I discover that Red Carnation has somehow managed to seamlessly blend understated yet highly detailed luxury with sustainability, genuine hospitality and front-row seats to Moremi’s wild comings and goings, on the western edge of the reserve.

ARRIVING AT XIGERA VERGES ON A HUMBLING

experience, as a handful of the lodge’s team meet me soon after landing to enthusiastically introduce themselves. What I didn’t know then, but I surely do by the time I’m seated in front of Tsaone a few days later, is how every one of the 100-strong team which makes Xigera happen day-to-day is wholeheartedly invested physically, mentally and emotionally in what they do. Indeed, their genuine warmth is evident from the get-go, in a way that you simply cannot put into words. When I find out that the Tollmans created a smart new staff village before the lodge re-opened under their management, with every individual having their own home with private facilities, I begin to appreciate what makes Xigera such a special place. Truly game-changing stuff, I seriously doubt whether any other off-grid African safari lodge is managed by owners who exhibit such

Xigera Suite

Xigera Suite

care for their people. And before long, I begin to sense that this same level of care extends to Xigera’s guests, as I embark upon what may very well be the most highly personalised safari to be had in the Okavango, led by my guide for the next 72-hours, Oratile Gotshajwang, nicknamed “Des”.

LIKE EVERYONE I COME INTO CLOSE CONTACT with during my stay at Xigera, Des is warm, compassionate and caring, and genuinely wants to escort me back to my lodgings in the early hours, photograph a moment with his camera that I cannot capture nearly as well on my iPhone, or ensure that I am furnished with a Bloody Mary to cure

the excesses of the previous night. And it is this sense of friendship, albeit passing, that is palpable throughout Xigera and slowly but surely captures my heart during the days and nights that follow.

COMPRISING JUST A DOZEN UBER-LUXURIOUS contemporary suites, fashioned from timber and removable to leave the terrain unblemished (should they need to be), and linked to the lodge’s main areas via elevated boardwalks which wind between trees interspersed with art pieces, sculptures and installations, Xigera is as exclusive as it gets in this part of Africa.

Xigera Suite

SET-OUT LENGTHWAYS TO MAXIMISE ITS connection with the Delta, the Xigera Suite is the lodge’s largest accommodation offering and is not overlooked by anything or anyone, apart from bush buck and greater kudu nonchalantly grazing nearby, and a few overhanging trees teeming with birdlife.

In between an oversized bedroom en-suite at either end, every part of the suite gently flows into the other, with all boasting breathtaking vistas towards the floodplains via floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding doors which open onto a terrace which runs its entire length. In every room, the exquisite detailing and exceptional taste and skill of Toni Tollman and her design team manifests itself in restrained yet splendidly individual décor, punctuated by handcrafted bespoke furniture, original artworks, rich fabrics and an unpretentious array of delicate, tasteful embellishments, from Ardmore lamps, vases and objets d’art, to cast-metal lily-patterned shower trays and a freestanding brass tub in my enormous bathroom, perfect for a long soak at the end of a day on safari, complete with hot water provided by Xigera’s own photovoltaic farm, which fulfils all of

Xigera Suite

Xigera Suite

the lodge’s energy needs. A sprawling, self-contained and sympathetically executed design-led oasis of indooroutdoor living spaces, decks and al fresco seating areas, the Xigera Suite is nothing short of a large and spacious yet warm and inviting home-away-from-home that I would never wish to leave should the Delta’s wildlife not be beckoning.

ON THE FIRST MORNING, FROM THE COMFORT

of my plush bed, I wake at dawn to witness a glorious sunrise, complete with vivid stripes of red and amber streaking across the horizon, the like of which I will hopefully never forget. And on my first game drive, massive elephants amble past our vehicle, an elder King of the Jungle lets out a mighty roar just a few metres in front of me and we silently observe a female leopard and her two cubs sleeping in tall grasses. All of my Botswanan safari expectations and more are met by Xigera, the Delta and Des on my very first day.

FROM SUNDOWNERS ATOP THE LODGE’S ONEof-a-kind Baobab Treehouse, to cruising along the Boro Channel and speeding past a bloat of a few dozen hippos, what I see, encounter, experience and satiates my tastebuds during the subsequent 48-hours – in the Delta’s plains, on the Okavango’s waters and in the lodge’s main building – elicit a wealth of feelings ranging from excitement and awe to romance and affection for both the creatures that occupy this remarkable part of the world and the inimitable team that lovingly runs the lodge, creating in the process such indelible memories that I am beyond smitten with Xigera and the beauty of the Okavango’s wilderness, and verging on distraught when it’s time to check-out and leave. Xigera is truly an Okavango Delta safari experience like no other.

A night in the Xigera Suite at Xigera Safari Lodge costs USD 10,000 for up to four people and includes full board, drinks, game drives and airport transfers. xigera.com

NO SHOES REQUIRED

HAVENS FROM THE OUTSIDE WORLD AND PLACES WHERE WE INCREASINGLY RETREAT TO UNWIND, RELAX AND REJUVENATE, SPAS ARE BECOMING MORE INTUITIVE, MODERN AND PERSONALISED, AND CUTTING-EDGE TREATMENTS AND SWISH NEW FACILITIES ARE REGULARLY BEING PREMIERED ACROSS THE CONTINENT

FROM A WORLD-CLASS WELLNESS DESTINATION SET IN THE HEART OF CHAMPAGNE COUNTRY, TO AN ULTRA-CHIC BOUTIQUE SPA DESIGNED BY DIOR, ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES THE CULTURED TRAVELLER VISITS A CURATED SELECTION OF EUROPE’S BEST

sumptuous europe’s most

sumptuous spas

FOUR SEASONS ASTIR PALACE ATHENS GREECE

THIRTY MINUTES’ DRIVE from the centre of the Greek capital and set within a tranquil 30-hectare haven in Vouliagmeni - which has been a sought-after Athens seaside suburb ever since the Astir Palace opened in the 1960s - the modern-day Four Seasons incarnation of this legendary resort where Onassis, Bardot and Sinatra once stayed, today contains an expansive split-level white marble-clad spa offering breathtaking sea views and a host of indulgent facilities.

As well as ten treatment rooms including two couple suites, where Elodie Lefebvre’s team of therapists soothe tired muscles and frayed nerves using oils and balms made with indigenous Greek herbs, including a range of products handcrafted in Greece especially for the hotel, the spa’s adults-only hydrotherapy Fountain House pays homage to Greece's ancient bathing ceremonies and their longstanding belief in the therapeutic properties of water, and offers an array of serene and rejuvenating experiences courtesy of an aromatherapy grotto, chill showers, hammam and hot-tub. Guests can also unwind in a luxe relaxation lounge whilst enjoying panoramic floor-to-ceiling views of the Aegean. Separate changing facilities for ladies and gents also contain steam rooms and saunas. A blend of gentle to firm techniques that release stress, boost wellbeing and provide absolute relaxation, the spa’s signature Armonia massage is one of its most popular. Whilst for body exfoliations, therapists craft personalised scrubs to guests’ specifications, as they watch, using olive oil, lavender and pure Greek minerals.

fourseasons.com/athens

THE NEWT IN SOMERSET CASTLE CARY UNITED KINGDOM

Owned by Koos Bekker and his wife, former editor of Elle Decoration South Africa, Karen Roos, The Newt is a standout and highly detailed countryside resort located on the edge of rolling hills close to the picturesque country town of Castle Cary, 30 kilometres south of Bath in England's West Country, around two and a half hour's drive from London.

The main building occupies beautiful Palladian-fronted Hadspen House, built in 1687 and home for some 230 years to the distinguished Hobhouse family. Mixing ornamental and productive elements and having been shaped over centuries by a number of successive enthusiasts, The Newt’s gardens are both beautiful and useful. In keeping with The Newt’s philosophy, guests are encouraged to connect with nature in the hotel’s spa, which boasts its own medicinal herb garden that forms an integral part of the offering, alongside an outdoor hydro pool, wild pool, relaxation beds and fire pit.

Inspired by the apothecary gardens of medieval Europe, a chestnut arbour tunnel leads to the spa garden, which is planted with species introduced to Britain

no later than the 12th century, in beds organised according to theme: immune boosting; detoxifying; relaxation; muscular; uplifting; balance and restoration. Herbs are incorporated into garden-scented treatments, and local materials – including Hadspen Stone and Blue Lias limestones – were used in the design of the spa, together with natural oak and white marble. For a signature massage, guests can choose between calming ylang-ylang and evening primrose, invigorating rosehip and mint, or brightening vanilla and white flower.. thenewtinsomerset.com

ROYAL CHAMPAGNE HOTEL & SPA CHAMPILLON FRANCE

LOCATED AMIDST SOME OF THE WORLD’S finest vineyards, North-East France’s hospitality scene was elevated to new heights when the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa opened in 2018. Obviously pivotal to the property is its unique position amidst the world-famous champagne producing region, making the hotel an ideal place to unwind and indulge in spa treatments combined with a few glasses of bubbly. Perhaps the perfect place to detox and retox in style, nowhere else in this part of Europe can one explore vineyards and sample wines then luxuriate in a world-class destination spa in the most bucolic of settings, overlooking the charming little villages of Champillon and Hautvilliers, within minutes of Dom Pérignon.

Featuring nine treatment rooms, state-of-the-art fitness facilities, a timber-lined yoga studio, a eucalyptus-

NO SHOES REQUIRED

infused sauna, manicure and pedicure stations and a Hammam, completing the hotel’s regal spa offerings are two temperature-controlled swimming pools – one indoor, one outdoor – along with a dedicated team which delivers invigorating juice blends to guests as they are guided to multiple relaxation lounges.

In partnership with acclaimed French brands Biologique Recherche and KOS Paris, the spa’s philosophy to communicate, link and connect is inspired by the original purpose of the building’s former use as a post house, which was built at the behest of Empress Josephine. Inspiration for a range of highly personalised face and body treatments is also drawn from the region’s most famous produce, champagne, of course.

royalchampagne.com

GARDENA GRÖDNERHOF HOTEL & SPA

URTIJËI ITALY

OWNED BY THE SAME FAMILY FOR FIVE generations and nestled amongst the spectacular peaks of the Dolomite mountains in northern Italy's South Tyrol, Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel & Spa is a serene slice of hospitality magic which acts as a gateway to the region’s famed hiking and skiing district, Val Gardena. During the summer months, the 2,000-metre ascent rewards guests with spectacular vistas of Europe’s largest alpine wildflower meadow and the vast plateau is a picturesque playground for walkers, hikers and cyclists.

After a day on the mountains, guests rejuvenate in the hotel's three-storey spa, which offers an array of modern vitality amenities including a spacious indoor heated pool, a large outdoor whirlpool, a Finnish sauna, an aromatic steam bath, a bio sauna, a cold-water pool and relaxation rooms. A bijou ladies-only spa has its own Finnish sauna and steam bath. Additionally, Gardena Grödnerhof’s Spa offers in-depth Ayurveda programmes courtesy of experienced wellness practitioners who skilfully restore equilibrium to bodies, minds and spirits, with bespoke Ayurvedic packages drawing up holistic healing techniques developed in India more than three millennia ago, with a focus on individuals' desire to heal, cleanse and revitalise. Other treatments include advanced anti-ageing facials, body peeling, marma and minceur massages, curated daily fitness programmes and personal yoga lessons with yogis from Kerala. gardena.it

NO SHOES REQUIRED

GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS KEMPINSKI ST. MORITZ SWITZERLAND

SET ON A NATURAL SPRING PRIZED FOR ITS healing qualities in St Moritz Bad - which is where St. Moritz's tourism industry originated, courtesy of the area’s naturally-occurring HEALING sources - Grand Hotel Des Bains Kempinski is the famed luxury Swiss alpine town's oldest and largest five-star hotel. Set back from the edge of the lake, five minutes’ drive from the centre of St. Moritz, Grand Hotel Des Bains is positioned directly opposite a cable car station and is home to a sprawling spa offering a wealth of facilities for both winter sports enthusiasts and dedicated spa-goers, with glacial waters, Bergellerranite, mountain herbs and wood from the Engadin Valley all skillfully combined to create a rich alpine ambiance.

Inspired by classic European luxury and the stunning surroundings, and pampering residents and guests alike after their outdoor adventures, Grand Hotel Des Bains’ Alpine Spa Wellness center seeks to elevate every treatment to the highest level of mindfulness and relaxation, and promote inner balance, by tailoring to individuals’ needs all massages, body treatments and facials using products made by Swiss Perfection, Voya, Bio Sculpture and HydraFacial MD - the latter treating fine lines and wrinkles, dry or dehydrated skin and pigment irritations, with long-lasting effects, without

the need for a scalpel or Botox. Onsite facilities include four different saunas, a steam bath, a laconium, a heated indoor pool, a Kneipp garden, a gym, a sun terrace and a separate spa for ladies.

Regularly throughout the year, the hotel's five-night Key Longevity Retreats offer a luxe break from everyday life and deliver lasting inspiration for a healthier and more dynamic lifestyle. Focusing on sleep optimisation, nutrition, fitness, wellbeing, detoxification and connecting with one's inner self, the retreats are helmed by a bevy of hand-picked experts, including chef Silvena Rowe, Dr. Alexander Zeuke and trainer Christina Michael.

kempinski.com

ONE&ONLY PORTONOVI HERCEG NOVI MONTENEGRO

ON THE WEST SIDE OF MONTENEGRO, IN AN idyllic region surrounding one of the grandest natural features of the east Adriatic, reminiscent of a fjord, the Bay of Kotor is one of the Mediterranean’s most distinctive and striking landscapes, surrounded by mountains rising directly from the water. The lush greenery of cypress, olive and lemon trees, plus a variety of other Mediterranean flora and fauna along the coast, stand in stark contrast to forbiddingly bare mountain sides.

Located at the entrance of Boka Bay, Portonovi is a luxury lifestyle development designed in the style of a Mediterranean village, complete with a large marina. It is here that Europe’s first One&Only resort is located, which is home to 123 rooms, suites and villas and a sumptuous onsite spa in partnership with health innovators, Chenot Espace. Offering pioneering treatments scientifically designed to enhance vitality and optimise wellness, Chenot Espace at One&Only Portonovi is one of Europe's most comprehensive wellness destinations and a one stop shop for those keen

to dedicate their vacation to a serious health overhaul. Indeed, the 4,000 square metre facility offers intensive and transformative journeys of detoxing and resetting the body, based on Chenot's pioneering approach to wellness that combines the latest scientific advances with the best Chinese and traditional medicines, also enabling guests to understand what is ageing them and set new pathways to improve performance and well-being, resulting in increased vitality.

Following an initial consultation and advanced diagnostic tests by medical professionals, guests receive a bespoke programme involving nutritional consultations, detox menus, fitness schedules, targeted spa treatments, stress-relieving activities and more. Guests are also offered individual Chenot Espace treatments curated by expert practitioners. And some hotel rooms and suites are located directly above the spa, offering privacy and easy access for those taking part in more intensive or longer treatment programmes.

oneandonlyportonovi.com

FAIRMONT WINDSOR PARK WINDSOR UNITED KINGDOM

WEST OF LONDON ON THE RIVER THAMES, the regal town of Windsor is rich in history and royal tradition, has a distinctly calm feel about it, and is home to the world’s oldest and largest inhabited castle. A charming destination for an elegant weekend break, just outside of town, Windsor Great Park covers thousands of hectares and was once a popular hunting ground of kings. Today the park is home to 500 free-roaming deer as well as a lake, an abundance of walking tracks and stunning gardens. Fairmont Windsor Park is located on the edge of these verdant parklands, around an hour from London.

Set in beautifully landscaped grounds, focusing on health and wellness and resembling an English countryside sanctuary – carefully blending modern elegance with mindful design – the hotel’s massive 2,500 square metre spa was purpose designed to bridge the gap between a traditionally calming spa and a modern wellbeing clinic, with nature as its inspiration, science as its guide and technology as its enabler, to offer guests the ultimate transformational experience.

Tranquil, serene and offering sweeping views of the surrounding parkland, the state-of-the-art spa is committed to providing every guest with a holistic focus on their balance of body, mind and spirit, with facilities including indoor and outdoor pools, a cryotherapy chamber, a Himalayan salt relaxation room, a Hamman, a Japanese foot spa, a dry flotation room, an IV infusion space, a complementary therapy room and a colon hydrotherapy suite, as well as 18 treatment rooms and a VIP spa suite. fairmont-windsorpark.com

FINCA CORTESIN CASARES SPAIN

A SHORT DRIVE FROM GIBRALTAR AND JUST under an hour from Málaga, Finca Cortesin is located in one of the most sought-after Andalusian coastal enclaves, set a little inland from the Mediterranean, on a vast estate spanning many hundreds of hectares punctuated by palm-laden patios, charming courtyards and perfumed gardens. The setting is beyond serene and the service could be rated six-star, making Finca Cortesin one of the most fabulous resorts in Spain and its spa one of Europe's finest.

A sensational facility where a traditional Mediterranean aesthetic is seamlessly integrated into a relaxing retreat spanning more than 2,000 square metres of elegance, opulence and wellness, the spa encompasses thermal baths, a fitness centre kitted out with the latest Artis by Technogym equipment, three thermal areas (each with its own sauna), a Turkish bath

and relaxation area, an ice room and a beautiful heated indoor saltwater pool bathed in natural light.

Therapists from Thailand, Bali, Sri Lanka and Spain provide guests with specialist Ayurvedic massages and treatments, alongside Asian-focused therapies from oxygenating facials to classic Thai massages, in 10 treatment rooms complete with heated floors and one couple suite with its own Roman bath area. Four treatment rooms are located in an exclusive, solely Thai area, prepared specifically for Oriental treatments, based on millenary techniques from different Asian countries whose primary objective is to relieve stress and provide deep relaxation and wellness.

Lovers of racquet sports are also amply catered for with padel and tennis courts, while the resort’s lush gardens are home to a further two outdoor swimming pools.

fincacortesin.com

THE PENINSULA ISTANBUL ISTANBUL TURKEY

LOCATED IN THE CENTRE OF ISTANBUL ON the waterfront, in the neighbourhood of Karaköy in close proximity to the old town, Galataport has transformed a 1.2 kilometre strip along the Bosphorus Strait and forever changes the relationship of Turkey’s largest city with shopping, gastronomy, the arts and the water. Within this new upscale district sits the new Peninsula hotel occupying some 250 metres of river frontage and exuding glamour from all three of its lovingly restored heritage buildings, plus a slick new fourth building adjacent.

A haven of tranquility, peace and quiet in the midst of a mega-city of some 15 million or more people, the Peninsula’s subterranean spa and wellness centre occupies a hushed,

marble-clad lower level, linking all four buildings, so guests can descend into WELLNESS heaven without moving through the hotel’s public spaces. At the heart of the spa’s offering are opulent Hammams - large enough to host small parties - alongside a dramatically lit 25-metre indoor swimming pool, eight treatment rooms, and possibly the best hotel gym ever encountered.

The Peninsula Istanbul also boasts a 25-metre outdoor swimming pool, set amongst gardens bordering the Bosphorus, offering guests private cabanas in which to relax post-workout, or sip a latté on the water’s edge.

peninsula.com/en/istanbul

A CITY OASIS

Shangri-La Colombo; your tropical sanctuary in the heart of the city. Nestled in the heart of Colombo’s business and entertainment district; Shangri-La Colombo offers luxurious living for those seeking either short or long terms stays in the city’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Elegantly appointed accommodation reflect the perfect balance between vibrant Asian hues and contemporary design complemented by an uncompromising selection of stylish dining venues celebrating exquisite culinary flavours.

1, Galle Face, Colombo 2, Sri Lanka | www.shangri-la.com

HOTEL DU CAP-EDEN-ROC CAP

D’ANTIBES FRANCE

HIDDEN AWAY ON THE SOUTHERNMOST TIP of Cap d’Antibes, perched on the tip of a rocky promontory, Oetker Collection’s wonderfully old-school palacelike Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc has been the setting for glamorous tête-à-têtes and glitzy soirées for more than 150 years and is a renowned movie star retreat of mythical status on the French Riviera. When the hotel re-opened for this year’s summer season this year, it unveiled 46 redesigned suites and a super-chic new spa offering in collaboration with Dior Beauty.

United by a shared spirit and vision of discreet and authentic luxury, Dior and Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc's new multi-faceted spa combines extreme refinement with warm simplicity, is set in the shade of Aleppo pines in the property’s established gardens, and the restrained luxury of the décor extends to the three individual treatment rooms and one double treatment room, the latter set on a private patio bedecked with Mediterranean flora and fauna.

Drawing on its holistic vision of beauty and wellbeing, Dior created four new customisable signature treatments especially for Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. Known as Dioriginels Rituals, they were inspired by the four elements that give the hotel its unique character: the rocks, the sea, the garden, and the sun. Dior also created six further ultra-customisable treatments that deliver moments of exceptional tranquility, named Bouquets. Spa treatments really don’t get more ritzy than being ensconced in a Dior-designed treatment room at Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, overlooking the southern tip of Cap d’Antibes, surrounded by acres of scented flowering gardens.. oetkercollection.com

COMO CASTELLO DEL NERO BARBERINO TAVARNELLE ITALY

THE PICTURESQUE HILLS OF TUSCANY

provide the bucolic backdrop for COMO Shambhala

Retreat, which is nestled within COMO Castello Del Nero’s charming ochre-hued 12th century estate, surrounded by manicured gardens and extensive grounds.

A distinctly Asian-inspired wellness centre, the retreat offers a transformative treatment menu, ranging from moments of relaxation to full-day revitalisation experiences, all delivered by world-class experts who seamlessly blend modern science with ancient healing techniques. Guests are invited to immerse themselves in therapeutic, Asian-inspired targeted treatments for the mind and body, such as signature massages, Guinot facials, skin detoxifying and full body exfoliations, alongside personalised beauty care and private sessions with accredited professionals in yoga, pilates and fitness. A relaxation room offers scenic views of the serene countryside. And private lessons are held in the sun-filled yoga studio and pilates studio, the latter equipped with Cadillac-Reformer machines.

To complement guests' wellness journeys, COMO Shambhala Cuisine offers nourishing and balanced breakfasts and lunch dishes designed to boost energy, enhance concentration and

nourish the soul. And for those wishing to combine wellness with a little indulgence, guests can also enjoy locally produced Chiantis, virgin olive oils, pure Italian honeys and local truffles sourced from the surrounding area, as well as fine dining experiences at the property’s onsite Michelin-starred restaurant, La Torre. comohotels.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL RITZ, MADRID MADRID SPAIN

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF AN ENERGETIC European city which really knows how to live, the Mandarin Oriental Ritz reopened its doors a few years ago following the biggest renovation in the building's 110-year history. Originally designed and built under the supervision of legendary hotelier César Ritz, together with French architect Charles Mewes and Spanish architect Luis de Landecho, the deluxe palace-like hotel first opened its doors in 1910 in Madrid's Golden Triangle of Art – essentially the city's commercial and cultural district.

Nothing short of an urban sanctuary, the hotel’s fitness and wellness facilities offer guests a calming escape in which to relax and revive, punctuated by a range of personalised holistic treatments tailored to leave the mind, body and soul in perfect harmony. These include “The Beauty Concept", conceptualised

by former banker Paz Torralba, which focuses on personal beauty and customises every element of a spa treatment to be perfectly aligned with a guest’s individual needs. With the guest at the heart of the experience, the spa's highly trained team uses its skills to offer different techniques depending on a client's choices and objectives, working only with highly respected cosmetic brands using pure, active ingredients, such as Cellcosmet, Valmont, iS Clinical and Alqvimia, amongst others.

Facilities also include a sumptuous heated indoor swimming pool bedecked with crystal chandeliers, experience showers, a steam room, a vitality pool, a state-of-the-art Technogymequipped fitness centre and a serene relaxation zone offering a luxe refuge from the hectic metropolis outside. mandarinoriental.com/madrid

SALVADOR DE BAHIA BRAZIL

brazil’s seductive former capital

WANDERING ITS PASTEL LANES, SAVOURING ITS DISTINCTIVE CUISINE, ADMIRING THE COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE AND BEING IMMERSING IN ITS VIBRANT MUSIC AND ART CULTURE, ALEX BENASULI IS UTTERLY SEDUCED BY BRAZIL’S THIRD LARGEST CITY

FOR CENTURIES, BRAZIL WAS the crown jewel in the Portuguese colonial empire and from 1549 to 1763 Salvador De Bahia was its capital. Blessed by its strategic position on Brazil’s largest bay – facilitating easy trade with Europe, Africa and the Americas – Salvador grew exceedingly rich on the back of sugarcane and slavery, quickly becoming the country’s main seaport.

TODAY, AS ONE OF THE OLDEST AND wealthiest cities in the Americas, Salvador boasts some of largest and best-preserved colonial neighbourhoods in the new world, a fact long acknowledged by UNESCO, which listed its historic city centre as a World Heritage Site in 1985. Visitors to Portugal will immediately recognise its aesthetic influences on Salvador. Ornate Baroque churches, imposing administrative edifices, and blue, pink

and yellow pastel-coloured buildings with wedding cake-style white trims abound, most of which conceal beautifully painted ceramic tiled floors and walls.

For the highest concentration of colonial architecture, head to Pelourinho in the upper city (Cidade Alta). Here, the steep, cobble-stoned approaches to Pelourinho, dotted with numerous historic, brightly-coloured monuments are enlivened by the exotic and unpredictable street life, giving this part of the city a Wizard of Oz-like quality. To spend time just wandering these streets, enjoying the magnificent 17th and 18th century sherbet coloured buildings at every turn, is to enter another world.

Mornings are quiet in Pelourinho and offer an opportunity to explore its treasures in relatively cooler temperatures with fewer tourists. Salvador’s tropical sun can be punishing and avoiding sight-seeing during the midday heat is highly advisable. However, the effect of the abundant sunshine illuminating every nook and cranny of Salvador’s historical city centre is nothing short of breathtaking.

YOU WILL OF COURSE WANT TO HIT THE architectural highlights, of which there are masses. Stroll down picturesque Cruzeiro de São Francisco towards resplendent São Francisco church and convent of Salvador - one of Brazil’s most important and beautiful historical sites and best remaining examples of Portuguese Baroque architecture on the planet.

Baroque is known for its opulence and over-the-top displays of wealth. São Francisco does not disappoint. Built in the 18th century, detailed wood carvings adorn the walls of its magnificent interiors, whilst pillars and ceilings are decadently highlighted with gold leaf while an eighty-kilo chandelier hangs majestically from the ceiling. The highlight of the convent cloister next door are the classic blue and white Portuguese azulejos (tiles) that surround it, depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi. The shady perimeter of the landscaped courtyard is an excellent place to enjoy some quiet moments of contemplation and take a break from the heat. If there’s one church you see in Salvador, São Francisco must be it. But if you have time for two, also visit Catedral Basílica de Salvador.

PELOURINHO’S HISTORICAL sites are plentiful and easy to discover. Though rebuilt many times, Palácio Rio Branco, Salvador’s historic seat of government, dates back to 1549. This splendid neoclassical palace boasts grand reception spaces and ornate design

Pelourinho

Harbour and seafront.tiff

São Francisco Church

detailing which offer further glimpses of Brazil’s wealthy past. However, it is the shaded terrace, perched high above the lower city, revealing panoramic vistas of All Saints Bay upon which the city is located, that makes a visit to the palace worthwhile.

TRANSPORTING GOODS AND PEOPLE FROM the lower city (where the ships docked) to the upper city used to be back breaking work. In the 1600s, the Jesuits designed a rope and pulley system to save time and energy. Over the years, the means of transporting goods and people became more elaborate. Built between 1869 and 1873, Elevador Lacerda was the first ever elevator to open to the public and is one of Salvador’s defining landmarks and most visited attractions. In 1928, steam engines were replaced by an electric system. Now beautifully restored to its former art deco glory, its four elevators connect the upper city with Salvador’s bay side financial center and municipal transportation hub of Comércio.

A short walk from the base of the elevator is the Mercado Modelo – a replica of Salvador’s original Customs House – through which all goods and slaves passed. Today the Mercado is a popular market comprising more than 100 stalls brimming with local arts and crafts and typical Bahian souvenirs. By the way, bargaining is de rigueur in Salvador! mercadomodelobahia.com.br

A few hundred metres from Elevador Lacerda and the Mercado Modelo, the Fera Palace is a lovingly restored boutique hotel. Staying here is akin to sleeping inside a living piece of Salvador's history, with many of its rooms boasting sweeping views of the bay. ferapalacehotel.com.br

THERE IS A DARK SIDE TO ALL THE FADED architectural extravagance and legacy of commercial activity upon which Salvador was built. Slavery was big business in Salvador. Brazil was the last country

Palacio Rio Branco

Elevador Lacerda

in the western world to abolish slavery in 1888. Forty percent of the slaves that were brought to the Americas were destined for Brazil and Salvador was one of the largest slave ports on the continent. The Portuguese word “Pelourinho” literally means a pillory, the like of which was used as a means of punishment and humiliation for slaves who challenged their masters.

TO THIS DAY, SALVADOR REMAINS THE Brazilian city that has retained the most African influences. With the more sinister legacies of slavery now in the past, Afro-Brazilian culture thrives in

Salvador and is today a source of vibrancy and joy. Nowhere in Brazil is its unique cultural melting pot more in evidence than in Salvador.

In Pelourinho’s main squares and throughout the city, visitors often chance upon troupes of über fit and mostly black and male capoeira dancers. Capoeira is a Brazilian martial arts-based acrobatic dance style that was developed by enslaved Africans in Brazil in the 16th century. Combining reverence for ancestors and the spirit world with fighting techniques and trickery, it was practiced as a means for slaves to express and defend themselves. Today, ritualistic moves are accompanied by chanting and the playing

of percussion instruments. A highly athletic pursuit that fuses strength, dexterity and grace, watching capoeira dancers is truly mesmerising and the combination of music and dance adds a unique sprit to Salvador’s streets.

For a more authentic capoeira experience, head to Forte de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, located at the edge of popular Santo Antônio neighbourhood, near Pelourinho. Also known as Forte da Capoeira, this 17th century fort houses various capoeira schools that rehearse in the massive central courtyard. Here, capoeira enthusiasts of all ages, assemble to learn and practice this beautiful art form and keep alive this colourful thread of Brazilian culture. Even if there’s no capoeira happening, the area around the fort is well worth exploring and the views across All Saints’ Bay, particularly at sunset, are spectacular.

SANTO ANTÔNIO, ALSO KNOWN AS CARMO, is as picturesque as Pelourinho, minus the grandest of its historical buildings and also devoid of the tourist throngs and street hustlers that can often make Pelourinho a bit hectic and not the safest of places to explore at night.

It’s hard not to be seduced by Santo Antônio’s main drag – Rua Direita de Santo Antônio. More residential than Pelourinho, the rainbow-coloured 17th and 18th century former mansions that line this kilometrelong cobbled street positively ooze charm. Many of Salvador’s newest and most inviting bars, restaurants and boutique bed and breakfast lodgings are also located here.

Rua Direita de Santo Antônio

Santo Antônio

Fera Palace Hotel

HEADING FROM PELOURINHO TO FORTE DE Capoeira, along Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, most of the buildings on the right have terraces offering expansive views over the bay and lower city. It's therefore perhaps little surprise that the area has quickly gentrified and is today one of the most desirable parts of the city to stay and socialise.

At night, the partying literally spills onto the streets, with impromptu samba dancing and relaxed socialising. Brazil is a laidback country and Salvador is one of its most easygoing cities. Casual and informal are rules of thumb when going out. Sensual and carefree are the predominant

vibes. Very much on the rise, Santo Antônio effortlessly exudes Brazilian joie de vivre and is the place where local residents and intrepid tourists meet in funky bars and restaurants that serve simple yet innovative takes on global and local cuisine.

Located directly on the water a short taxi ride from the Mercado Modelo, Amado serves the best steaks, excellent Brazilian starters and modern takes on traditional Bahian dishes. You must try some moqueca – a traditional prawn-based seafood stew and Bahia’s national dish.

amadobahia.com.br

Acarajés seller

Aerial view of Salvador de Bahia

SPOTLIGHT SALVADOR DE BAHIA

SALVADOR’S TRADITIONALLY BOHEMIAN

haunt, Rio Vermelho, a twenty-minute taxi ride from Pelourinho and Santo Antônio in the city’s southern zone, is also heading upscale while firmly retaining it artsy and creative roots. Cliffside luxury skyscrapers jostle with cobblestone streets, art galleries, cafés and bars, complete with beaches to the front, resulting in a truly eclectic vibe, day and night.

Beachfront square Largo de Santana is a lively social hub that explodes over the weekends. It’s one of the best places to sample acarajés – a mash up of black-eyed beans, shrimp, onion, salt and pepper, fried in palm oil. Acarajés are sold by Afro-Brazilian women wearing Baiana de Acarajé traditional dress – a curious blend of ancient European Baroque with white lace detailing and multiple layers, accessorised by vibrant tropical jewellery and turban-like headdresses. In the vicinity you will also find countless bars, pubs and

street stalls that are the perfect place to sip a cold beer or Caipirinha – Brazil’s world-famous national cocktail made with cachaça, sugar and lime. A couple of caipirinhas will surely convince you to join the tropical party!

EVERY FEBRUARY, THE BEACH AT RIO

Vermelho is the setting for Festa de Yamanjá, the Candomblé religion’s main annual festival, which along with capoeira are the most distinctive Afro-Brazilian and Bahian cultural additions to Brazilian society.

Born in the 16th century, Candomblé is a fusion of West African animist and spirit traditions with Catholic rites. During Festa de Yamanjá, hundreds of white robed women light candles and make offerings to Yamanjá – a sea goddess with parallels to the Virgin Mary. Since Candomblé is a huge part of daily life in Salvador, unsurprisingly the festival routinely turns into an all-night party.

OF COURSE, THERE IS NO GREATER FESTIVAL on the planet than Brazilian carnival. Salvador vies with Rio as having the biggest, best and wildest carnival in the world, with well over a million revelers participating annually. This bacchanalian orgy of music, dancing, drunkenness and complete lack of inhibitions takes place every February or March in the days that lead up to the onset of Lent. Unlike Rio (where the main events are based around the samba schools and parades), Salvador’s carnival is street party oriented and arguably even crazier than the action in Rio.

THE BLOCOS (AS THE STREET PARTIES ARE known) are organised around trio elétricos, which are decorated floats on trucks pumping out high-octane music. These are followed by tens of thousands of wildly gyrating costumed and scantily clad partygoers. Whilst samba is the dominant beat in Rio, Salvador leans towards axé – a frenetic fusion of different Afro-Caribbean musical genres. Carnival in Salvador is not for the faint hearted and advance planning is essential to secure decent accommodation and tickets to the parties. Safety is also a concern, so it is vital to get the lay of the land before the carnival begins and have a strategy on how to tackle such a massive event. The payoff is being part of one of the world’s most hedonistic parties.

WHILST SALVADOR IS A STEAMY, SULTRY and tropical destination, the sea is never too far

away. The beach at Porto de Barra, at the mouth of All Saints’ Bay in the middle of the city, has fine sand fringed by calm, translucent waters. Overlooked by a whitewashed church and bordered on one side by a colonial fort – the site of Salvador’s original European settlement – it’s hard to believe that such a beach exists in a city of three million people. Here, in a seamless tapestry that can only be found in Salvador, fishermen, capoeira dancers and candomblé followers mix with families, lovers, beach volley and football players, as well as tourists. As the sun sets, warmly illuminating this Western facing stretch of urban paradise, it is impossible not to fall in love with this sexy, vibrant, melting pot of a city. Though Salvador’s inimitable charms have evolved over many centuries, there has never been a better time than now to see this authentically seductive, bouncing Brazilian metropolis for yourself. salvadordabahia.com/en

IN OUR NINTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION, JOE MORTIMER CHATS WITH ANTHONY HAMILTON RUSSELL ABOUT HIS AWARDWINNING BURGUNDIAN-STYLE PINOT NOIR AND CHARDONNAY PRODUCED IN SOUTH AFRICA, AND NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS RESTAURANTS IN MYKONOS, ISTANBUL AND CAPE TOWN

SCORPIOS

➤ MYKONOS, GREECE

HAMILTON RUSSELL VINEYARDS

➤ HERMANUS, SOUTH AFRICA

TANG

➤ CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

I-GURU

➤ ISTANBUL, TURKEY

i-Guru, Istanbul, Turkey

REVIEW

SCORPIOS IS A SUMMER MAGNET FOR THE INTERNATIONAL JETSET AND ALMOST CERTAINLY THE MOST EXCLUSIVE VENUE ON THE ISLAND. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU SPENDS AN EVENING FINDING OUT WHAT ALL THE FUSS IS ABOUT

SCORPIOS

➤ MYKONOS, GREECE

ATMOSPHERE FOOD

A BREATHTAKINGLY STUNNING group of islands to the southeast of mainland Greece, set in close proximity to one another, the renowned party isle of Mykonos is located in the heart of the Cyclades. Constantly dividing opinion –especially in recent years, when the island has become more obviously about excess than enjoying the relaxed pace of life for which the rest of the

Cyclades are famous – Mykonos is without doubt the most energetic of all the Greek islands, with party beaches routinely pumping out loud music, dance clubs hosting big name DJs and countless venues staying open until dawn, if not later.

Every day during the peak months, more than 200 planes, including a significant number of private jets, have been known to take-off or land at

Mykonos’ tiny airport, which prompted a recent overhaul of the solitary terminal. But the airport still cannot cope. Depending on your viewpoint, August is the worst or best month to visit Mykonos.

Catering to two very different classes of tourist, the majority of Mykonos' music venues are of the massmarket variety. Meanwhile others have been designed to meet the demands of the super-rich, who flock to the island every summer. Both types of venue have transformed parts of the island from sleepy beaches and fishing inlets into the complete opposite. Indeed, it is difficult today to find somewhere on Mykonos which is not party central, and I don’t say this in a good way.

Thankfully, during a slightly reluctant visit to Mykonos earlier this year, I locate a few gems on the overrun island, the best of which is undoubtedly slick and glamorous Scorpios, which I am delighted to discover shines for all the right reasons.

LOCATED ON THE ISLAND’S SOUTH coast, a 15-minute drive from Mykonos town, German friends Thomas Heyne and Mario Hertel bought Scorpios bar in 2015. Set on a rocky, sun-blessed promontory across the bay from Nammos, the then bar’s position made it unique, since it offered panoramic views across the turquoise Aegean Sea, complete with the precious luxury of an eastern sunrise and sunsets over southern cliffs. Heyne and Hertel saw the site’s potential and set about transforming it into a super-luxury

IMAGE: VIVEK VADOLIYA

IMAGE: VIVEK VADOLIYA

IMAGE: BJORN SEDER

party destination with a difference, offering wellness activities as well as top-end dining, well-run bars and an upscale beach club, with every area designed to enhance the venue’s spectacular location and the natural spectacle that unfolds daily. Today, Scorpios is undoubtedly the most exclusive and well-known venue on Mykonos.

WHEN I ARRIVE ON A SATURDAY evening in June, not especially looking forward to the night, if I’m being honest, I am warmly greeted by Diana Porim. Beautifully dressed, superpolite and incredibly well organised, Diana heads a team of 30 hostesses who welcome Scorpios guests arriving from the adjoining beach, by road, via a dedicated entrance for Soho Roc House members, and by sea. To say that my arrival experience is smooth is an understatement, and as I am wafted into the venue, I feel like I have just entered a different Mykonos dimension, one which I immediately rather like, much to my surprise.

OBVIOUSLY A MAGNET FOR

the international jet-set, attracting celebrities, socialites, models and fashionistas from across Europe and beyond, I’m pleased to see that the clientele doesn’t solely consist of the super-rich, which makes for some fascinating people watching as I take a seat at the bar and order a cocktail, which is crafted in front of me and bloody good. As I survey the scene, surrounding me is a palpable sense of anticipation and

excitement, which I’m told is symbolic of a party night, of which there can be three or four per week during high season, each attended by anything up to 2,000 people. At the same time there is usually a massive queue outside, consisting of those who don’t have reservations but are desperate to get in. Whilst I would never queue, I can see why the aspirational do. For once inside the atmosphere is sophisticated yet relaxed, in a cool and contemporary way, without being vulgar

or tasteless. On the contrary, whilst some guests are obviously spending more than others, everyone is well-behaved in their extravagance.

A RUSTIC-CHIC RESTAURANT AT the center of Scorpios comfortably seats 200, spilling onto an outside terrace overlooking the sea. We take a seat under a timber and bamboo canopy, settle in for the meal to come, and look across a simple dancefloor area with a

Shrimp and seabass ceviche

IMAGE: BJORN SEDER

IMAGE: BJORN SEDER

IMAGE: JOHANNES SCHWARK

humble stage at one end, towards the dappled light dancing on the sea. It’s an impressive setting.

Encouraging people to share and socialise over food, inspired by the Eastern Mediterranean and helmed by chef Alexis Zopas, Scorpios focuses on fresh seafood and the finest cuts of meat prepared relatively simply. Utilising an array of seasonal produce and skillfully combining traditional Greek flavours with various cooking techniques to create dishes that are as visually appealing as they are tasty, everything we eat is delicious. A rack of lamb is particularly outstanding.

WEARING A LEATHER APRON AND carrying a bucket of fresh oysters in his belt, along with all of the condiments, an oyster shucker moves around the restaurant. Dozens of waiters constantly dart around, knowing exactly where each dish they bear is heading. And as the night unfolds, the tempo rises, the atmosphere intensifies and the venue slowly turns into a sultry party that I begin to feel I might like to be part of.

TASTE & SIP REVIEW

THE MUSIC AT SCORPIOS IS infectious and obviously key to the venue’s success. A carefully chosen assembly of resident and visiting DJs seamlessly blend a heady mix of electronic and analogue music, seemingly sourced from the desert of Burning Man, the dancefloors of underground Berlin and the shores of Tulum, encompassing everything from acoustic and experimental sounds to down-tempo techno and crossovers between indie and electro, old and new. My toes are tapping and I feel the urge to move to the rhythm. Next thing I know, I’m on my feet, gently swaying whilst surveying a few hundred people grooving and having a good time without losing the plot. This is grown-up partying and a gathering of like minds, universally enjoying the moment. The scene is both enthralling and captivating. Welcome to multisensory Scorpios – a deluxe drinking, dining and dancing experience unlike anything else in the Cyclades. In a very good way.

SCORPIOS

ATMOSPHERE FOOD

CULINARY DIRECTOR : Athenagoras Kostakos

EXECUTIVE CHEF : Alexis Zopas

ADDRESS : Paraga Beach, Mykonos 846 00, Greece

TELEPHONE: +30 2289 029250

EMAIL: reservations.mykonos@scorpios.com

WEBSITE: scorpiosmykonos.com

CUISINE: Eastern Mediterranean

OPENING HOURS: Lunch and dinner during the summer months 13:30 - 23:00

IDEAL LUNCH: Greek salad EUR 28; Calamarata EUR 58; Peponi Sorbet EUR 28. Total EUR 114

IDEAL DINNER: Beef carpaccio EUR 66; Sweet langoustines EUR 180; Half-baked cookie EUR 36. Total EUR 282

RESERVATIONS: Essential. Walk-ins welcome

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: Highchairs available. Child-friendly dishes available

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PARKING: Valet EUR 10 (car), EUR 5 (bike/scooter)

TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

IMAGE: JOHANNES SCHWARK

Wood-fired tiger prawns

anthony hamilton russell

CONVERSATION WITH

ONE OF THE MOST SOUTHERLY WINE ESTATES IN AFRICA, LOCATED IN THE BEAUTIFUL MARITIME HEMEL-EN-AARDE VALLEY, JUST BEHIND THE OLD FISHING VILLAGE OF HERMANUS, HAMILTON RUSSELL IS INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED FOR ITS CLASSICALLY STYLED MULTI AWARDWINNING WINES SOLD IN SOME 70 COUNTRIES. A PIONEER OF VITICULTURE AND WINEMAKING, ANTHONY HAMILTON RUSSELL IS COMMITTED TO PRODUCING ELEGANT, STRUCTURED AND HIGHLY INDIVIDUAL PINOT NOIR AND CHARDONNAY WINES. HERE HE CHATS TO JOE MORTIMER

When did you first become interested in wine production?

When I was at Wharton Business School in the States, at the end of the 1980s, I did a course research paper on my father’s passion project, Hamilton Russell Vineyards. This piqued my interest. But it was only when I considered returning from the UK to South Africa after Nelson Mandela’s release, that I seriously considered getting involved in what was then a very small family business. I loved wine, of course. Until then, I just hadn’t thought seriously about producing it.

Please describe the landscape of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and Hamilton Russell Vineyards?

Hemel-en-Aarde means heaven and earth, which gives you some idea of how beautiful the area is. At its closest only 1.5 kilometres from the cold South Atlantic, the valley is surrounded by majestic mountains covered in remarkably species-rich indigenous Cape Fynbos. We have more species in the area than there are in the UK. Hamilton Russell Vineyards runs northwards towards the valley floor from the small Raed-na-Gael range. The top of the property overlooks the Atlantic, with nothing between us and

Antarctica except for a narrow strip of the town of Hermanus and its golf course.

What geological and climactic conditions make it unique from a grape-growing perspective?

We are far south compared to most of South Africa’s grape growing areas and particularly close to the cooling influences of the South Atlantic. Additionally, we have a bank of extremely clay and iron-rich shalederived soil, with a clay content similar to that of the Côte de Nuits region in Burgundy. The ancient shale dates back 400 million years and has been on the surface for more than 230 million years. The moderating influence of the sea means that it doesn’t get too hot in summer or too cold in winter.

Hemel-en-Aarde is often compared to Burgundy in that Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the region’s dominant grapes. How do the wines differ from those in Burgundy? We have three appellations making up the Hemel-en-Aarde and although they are contiguous, the wine styles vary, but in a beautiful way. Variations in altitude, soil and meso-climate account for this. To me, the wines of the Hemelen-Aarde valley appellation can at times bear an uncanny resemblance to

red and white Burgundy. We are told this often. Their aesthetic leanings are certainly very similar. As for Burgundy, our wines are long-lived and not too fruit forward. Some very experienced tasters often struggle to place our wines outside Burgundy. This is not because we seek to copy a Burgundian style. It is simply a happy accident of nature that our terroir delivers this aesthetic..

Please tell us a bit about the history of Hamilton Russell Vineyards? Hamilton Russell Vineyards was founded in 1975 by my father Tim. It was a passion project and he took significant risks pioneering an area previously unplanted to vines. Certain legal hurdles had to be surmounted before was possible to proceed to market. His venture was funded by his successful career as the owner of an advertising agency in Johannesburg. The first wines were produced in 1981. In 1991, I returned from the UK, where I was working as a strategy consultant for Bain and Company, to take over the business, which I bought from my father in 1994.

Why did you choose to only work with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay?

I would prefer to say our property chose the varieties as the best and

most beautiful possible expression of the place. I just “listened” to it. With export markets mostly closed to wine producers during the Apartheid era, surviving in wine meant making something for everyone in a small, over-traded local market. When Nelson Mandela was released, the world opened up and it made sense to only do what you do best for the whole world. Focus wasn’t only possible, but advisable. When I took over, we made numerous wines and worked with eight grape varieties. We also purchased grapes. We now make one Pinot Noir and one Chardonnay, and we don’t purchase any grapes for these wines so they are a true expression of the location.

What is your standout wine and what are its dominant characteristics? Which was the best vintage to date?

We don’t make any “reserves” or second labels. Both our Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are standout wines to me. Our Pinot noir is known for its more muscular structure, minerality, dark spice and brooding dark, wild fruit, without the forward red fruit and soft almost sweet, round character. Of our Pinot Noirs, the choice of best vintage is a question of personal preference. Not everyone agrees. I particularly like the 2001, 2018 and 2022. Although the 1981 (our first vintage) was impressive well beyond expectations when tasted it in 2022. Our Pinot noirs can age

Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Anthony Hamilton Russell.

impressively. Our Chardonnay is particularly known for its dry mineral spine and almost electric vibrancy. It is more towards the varied citrus and pear end of the fruit spectrum as opposed to a more open, “sweeter” tropical end of the fruit spectrum. Of our Chardonnays, I particularly like the 2018, 2021 and 2022 vintages.

Have the climatic conditions changed in any discernible way since you took over the vineyard?

Despite the effects of global warming, that are much talked about and written about in many of the world’s winelands, we have got cooler and wetter over my 32 years. The long-term average of the maximum temperatures for the four hottest months of the year, building up to and during harvest, was 25°C in the early 1990s. We are currently on a 24-year average of 24.6°C for the same period. Annual rainfall has moved from a long-term average in the early 1990s of 750mm to an average of 841mm for the last 24 years. Grape growing and winemaking have not changed in response to climate as much as they have to achieve subtle improvements for a purer better expression of our site and soils.

How do you mitigate against those conditions to ensure quality and consistency?

We have evolved our practices for better, purer and more beautiful site expression, not really for any currently perceived climate change.

You also make wine in Oregon. What made you decide on the Willamette Valley?

We have made wine in Oregon’s Willamette Valley from the 2018 vintage. I first visited the area in the early 1990’s, and several times subsequently. I was extremely impressed by the quality development and growth of the area – for Pinot Noir in particular – and it was my conviction that that would be where the most interesting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay would be made in the States. At least as far as the aesthetic that appealed to us most. That has come to pass.

We wanted to make wine in the Northern Hemisphere, where our winemaker can travel when things are quiet here, and in Oregon, given our reputation in the States and some fortuitous relationships, we were able to go straight in and source grapes from their equivalent of Grand Cru sites. I am very proud of what we have achieved in the Willamette Valley to date.

How do the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines you make in Oregon compare to those made in Hemel-en-Aarde?

The styles are different, as they should be. The common thread however remains a more restrained, classic style, focusing less on grape variety and more on the expression of site and soil.

Oregon has a beautifully pure, more lifted, open fruit profile and a bright minerality. The structure of the Pinot Noir is perhaps a little less muscular, with less dark spice than our Hemel-enAarde Valley expression.

The Chardonnay has a fairly similar mouthfeel and bright energy but has a less citrus fruit profile and more of an apple and stone-fruit profile, otherwise it has the same leanings. The Hemel-en-Aarde Valley expression has in some vintages a little more density.

Have soaring inflation, energy costs and supply issues affected you and other winemakers in South Africa? Yes, they have. Those that can, have increased price. Those that can’t have faced tighter margins.

How disruptive was the pandemic? Did you embrace any new technology or best practices that you might not have done beforehand? It was highly disruptive. There were significant periods when the sale of any alcohol was banned in South Africa, and even a period where exports were banned as well. This placed many producers under serious financial pressure. For producers traditionally selling a high percentage to restaurants internationally, things were compounded.

Zoom tastings and meetings were new to us and we became highly

hemel-en-aarde means heaven and earth, which gives you some idea of how beautiful the area is

The estate's small tasting room

Emul Ross, winemaker

active in that area. With a greatly reduced ability to travel, and the money and time that freed up, we were able to spend more time on various improvement projects.

Fortunately, several international markets required additional wine with the increased demand for wine that lockdowns created. We ended up having a near record year.

Is the South African wine industry affected by labour shortages like others around the world ?

I would say we have a skills deficit rather than a labour shortage. We invest heavily in training as do most in our industry.

Tell us a bit about your particular winemaking process: would you describe yourselves as an innovative or traditional winery?

A lot of what is seen as innovation, is simply a re-application of very old practices in a slightly new way. We have been regarded as innovative in many ways, but our overall winemaking philosophy would be regarded as traditional with minimal handling. Perhaps modern traditionalist would describe us best.

In Europe, we are seeing huge demand for zero-alcohol wine. Is this something that you may considering dabbling in?

No. Wine is partly about the most beautiful possible delivery of the wonderful mild euphoric, alcohol, at moderate levels. Alcohol is an important component of the appeal of wine. It is a by-product of a natural process and is very much a part of wine’s ability to unlock and express all those appealing mysteries of site and soil.

What initiatives have you explored in recent years to reduce your environmental footprint or energy consumption?

We think of ourselves as “ecologically beneficial” farmers and we have introduced organic practices to our area. Recognising the drawbacks of monoculture, we focus on increasing diversity both within the vineyards, our soils and our broader surrounds.

We have been WWF Conservation Champions for many years and I have been a past chairman of our wine area’s nature conservancy. We have more species of plants in our area

than there are in the United Kingdom, including many that we protect, that are endangered or critically endangered. Being a Conservation Champion requires, amongst other things, an annual audit and a high score for sustainable farming and winemaking practices.

Through our farming practices we have more than doubled our soil carbon

the wines of the hemel-en-aarde valley appellation can at times bear an uncanny resemblance to red and white burgundy

Pinot Noir barrel maturation cellar

Braemar House

content, tying up a significant amount of atmospheric CO2. We have also greatly increased our soil microbial and fungal diversity – along with overall quantity.

Do you collaborate with any other wineries or non-wine businesses on products or events?

We collaborate on several events, showcasing our Hemel-en-Aarde area and showcasing the grape varieties we work with for all of South Africa. Our industry is highly collaborative, almost collegiate, in the way it operates.

We also spend a lot of time exchanging ideas with the teams of other properties we respect. For winemaking, vineyard management and marketing. It is in everyone’s interest to raise the overall quality and reputation of South African wine.

South African wines continue to make their mark on the global stage. What role can winemakers play in promoting South African culture and heritage around the world? Travel, travel and more travel. The more winemakers and proprietors personally interact with the international wine

trade and consumers, the better known and respected South African wine will become. While it certainly helps, it just doesn’t have the same impact when this interaction is conducted by generic marketing organisations.

What has been your greatest success or proudest moment since taking over the vineyard?

Successfully contributing to building a vibrant Pinot Noir and Chardonnayfocused Hemel-en-Aarde area, with more than 20 producers now, from initially just us, is something I take most pride in. The impact on the overall community in terms of employment, pre-school education, skills development and further opportunity for growth has been significant. And with our joint efforts in conservation, we have collectively had a hugely positive impact on our environment.

To what extent are you embracing the opportunities offered by wine tourism? Is this a priority for you, or are you more focused on the wines themselves?

We see ourselves first and foremost as wine producers for the world. We are not retailers. We are not restaurateurs. And we are not in the tourism business. We love receiving guests at our tasting room, but this is to enable them to get a feel for where the wine they enjoy comes from and learn more about it. It isn’t to push sales.

How was the 2023 harvest and how are things looking for the year ahead?

The 2023 harvest is safely in barrels in the cellar and the Pinot Noir, in particular, is tasting fantastic. The harvest was not without its challenges, but then a harvest seldom is. It was a particularly cool year with earlier post-harvest rains than usual. Luckily, we finished our harvest before these presented a problem.

2024 is building well with a particularly cold wet winter ensuring proper dormancy and the likelihood of timely and even budbreak in spring. As is always the case with winemaking, there are many risks ahead and many opportunities.

hamiltonrussellvineyards.com

Great Dane "Ophelia" with Anthony Hamilton Russell

IN THE SHADOW of Table Mountain,

Cape Town’s spectacular location at the northern end of the Cape Peninsula - with nearvertical cliffs falling into the Atlantic’s cold waters to the city's west, and the warmer Indian Ocean waters to the city’s east - makes for an inimitable setting unmatched by any other metropolis on the African continent. Coupled with stunning surrounding scenery and fringed by gorgeous beaches and miles of magnificent coastline have made the ‘Mother City’ a global tourist destination for decades. And at the core of Cape Town’s attractions is its happening restaurant scene, which is constantly buzzing with innovation, passion and originality. Today, an array of restaurants offer a range of cuisines reflecting the many international influences which have had and continue to have an indelible effect on South Africa's food culture.

Named after Prince Alfred, who began construction of the harbour in 1860, and his mother, Queen Victoria, Cape Town’s bustling V&A Waterfront is a mixed-use city district unto itself. Spanning more than 120-hectares, it encompasses a number of cultural landmarks together with a range of shopping, dining and entertainment options. In 2017, The V&A was given

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS OUT A SLICK NEW ASIAN FUSION RESTAURANT LOCATED IN THE HEART OF CAPE TOWN’S BUSTLING VICTORIA AND ALBERT WATERFRONT

NEWCOMER

NEWCOMER

a massive boost when the worldclass Zeitz MOCAA museum was unveiled, designed by British starchitect, Thomas Heatherwick. Both an international architectural and cultural magnet, the Zeitz MOCAA prompted a renewed interest in the V&A and soon attracted a number of new businesses to open within walking distance of the now internationally famous landmark museum, including some new destination dining establishments.

FOLLOWING ITS OVERNIGHT

success in Johannesburg – where the brand’s first glamorous, high-energy restaurant opened on Sandton's iconic Nelson Mandela Square in 2021 – TANG opened a year ago in the heart of Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront, focusing on Japanese izakaya-style small plates and classic Cantonese cuisine with a contemporary twist.

IT’S HARD NOT TO BE PUT-OFF by TANG’s location right in the middle of a shopping mall and walking through shoppers to get to an upmarket restaurant. Try not to be. For once through its stylish entrance and met by a helpful hostess, the restaurant is sophisticated and modern in equal measure, skillfully blending elements of Asian culture with good design and instantly transporting guests far away from the busy malls outside.

A little less flashy than its Jo’burg parent yet also designed by Tristan Du Plessis – global winner of the 2019 Restaurant and Design Awards – the Cape Town venue exudes a warm and inviting atmosphere and is punctuated by earthy tones, sleek wooden furniture and Asian-inspired artwork, with intricate screens creating intimate dining areas. By day, large windows flood the dining room with natural light and afford diners waterfront views, making the most of the restaurant’s location on the Victoria Basin, with Table Mountain in the distance. The liberal use of pale oak, honed travertine and imported marbles create a light and uplifting feel, which du Plessis and TANG’s owner – seasoned entrepreneur, Nicky van der Walt – felt was suited to its waterside setting and more in tune with Cape Town’s vitality.

Gold leaf Wagyū beef nigiri and salmon nigiri

PRESIDED OVER BY A WELLorganised and friendly team which makes guests welcome from the get-go, we manage to get a few seats at a showstopping sushi cum cocktail bar close to the entrance and fashioned entirely from marble. Smart and busy, complete with armchair-like stools, it feels like the happening heart of the restaurant and an appropriate place for a pre-dinner aperitif and something small to nibble on before the main business of eating begins in earnest.

HAVING CUT HIS TEETH AT perpetually packed Cape Town favourite, Willoughby & Co., as well as acting as group chef for the Kove Collection of luxury restaurants and boutique hotels, TANG’s group executive chef, Vixa

Kalenga, is amply qualified to helm the culinary teams at both restaurants.

Despite being a Sunday night, the restaurant is very busy and a distinct buzz in the dining room is palpable. Yet whilst the atmosphere is energetic and the decor obviously high-end, the vibe is relaxed and unstuffy. Indeed, it appears to be all about the food and service rather than being seen, and a funky background soundtrack sets a cool tone for the evening’s proceedings, as the chitter-chatter of happy diners mingles with the clinking of glasses and TANG’s sushi chefs showcase their culinary prowess for all seated at the bar to see.

AN EXCELLENT LYCHEE MARTINI is followed by some Hakutsuru sake, which is light, gentle, incredibly drinkable and the perfect pairing for our lobster and duck salads which are crisp and generous.

An exquisitely presented platter of sushi follows, that includes spicy salmon roses and seared tuna sashimi, with some gold leaf Japanese A5 wagyū nigiri taking center stage – the fine beef, with its beautiful marbling, surely only needing a few turns on the robata before being garnished with gold leaf and served. The sushi is perfectly paired with an elegant and intense Hamilton Russell Chardonnay.

AS THE EVENING PROCEEDS AND the volume of the music is notched-up a touch, so is the symphony of sound and flavours. Around us are shoppers enjoying a quick bite, young families having an intimate meal, couples on romantic rendezvous, friends celebrating birthdays and larger tables marking special occasions. TANG is obviously a restaurant for everyone, and the collective enthusiasm is somewhat contagious.

WE SAMPLE AN ARRAY OF OTHER dishes all of which universally deliver a range of taste sensations. Of these, the thinly sliced raw octopus tiradito stands out, garnished with a tangy orange sauce and a savoury and simple

Black Cod Miso

Chef Vixa Kalenga

Wagyū gyoza

Matsuhisa dressing. A dish not-to-bemissed is the artfully presented yellowtail jalapeño sashimi, set in a yuzu-ponzu sauce. But the pièce de résistance of the entire meal is undoubtedly the combination of two of the restaurant’s signature dishes, black cod miso and a Peking duck. Plated simply, the flaking miso-marinated fish is cooked to perfection and is the outstanding dish of the night.

ALREADY FIRMLY ESTABLISHED on Cape Town’s restaurant scene, TANG makes good use of a range of premium ingredients and rare spices to present upscale Asian fare with a unique flair, in surroundings which are both luxe and polished yet warm and inviting, complete with swift and attentive service.

cpt.tanghospitality.com

Salted caramel fondant

PUNCTUATED BY 14TH CENTURY GENOESE WALLS RUNNING THROUGH IT, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS A STYLISH NEW ALLDAY-DINING VENUE IN THE HEART OF ISTANBUL’S LIVELY BEYOĞLU DISTRICT

NEWCOMER

I-GURU ISTANBUL, TURKEY

MASSIVELY RICH IN cultural heritage, the mega-city of Istanbul is quite literally strewn with UNESCO World Heritage sites, with many landmarks dating back to Roman times. Indeed, the largest metropolis in Turkey – which serves as the country's economic, cultural and

historic hub – is also one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world today, encompassing a variety of cultures and ethnic backgrounds within its vast limits. Straddling Europe and Asia, Istanbul is truly a city where one can uniquely experience Middle Eastern and Western cultures in the same place.

TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

LOCATED ON THE EUROPEAN side of Istanbul both geographically and culturally, Galata is the former name of Istanbul's Karaköy neighbourhood. On the northern shore of the Golden Horn, quite literally towering over Karaköy's shops and streets, the Galata Tower is one of modern Istanbul's major landmarks. First built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinianos in 507-508 AD, the Genoese rebuilt the current tower in the mid14th century to a height of 70 metres, making it the highest point within the

walls of their Genoese colony called Galata. Sadly, the local municipality began to demolish most of the walls in the 1860s. But several wall sections, multiple towers and a gate still survive, including the main tower itself, its rare fusion of Roman, Genoese and Ottoman architecture making it a major tourist attraction. Karaköy neighbourhood is today part of Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district, which is one of the city's most vibrant and happening areas, featuring a concentration of bars, cafés and buzzing nightspots.

Mumbai Margarita

LARGE PARTS OF GALATA'S

historic surviving Genoese walls, dating back more than 700 years, were lovingly incorporated into Ecole St. Pierre hotel, which opened a few years ago set within what was originally a French school founded in 1842 and known as Collège des Frères St. Pierre. Adjacent to the old school (now hotel) is a historic dormitory building which dates back to the same period.

Painstakingly restored by its present owners at great expense, the old dormitory was reborn less than a year ago as i-Guru, named after the nuns and teachers who slept in the building 180 years earlier. A multi-purpose café, bar and lounge-style restaurant, to say that i-Guru is located in the epicentre of lively Beyoğlu would be something of an understatement. And pivotal to the venue is its large al fresco terrace out

front, bordered by Beyoğlu’s bustling streets and presided over by a giant panda mural by Saudi-born street artist, Leo Lunatic. leolunatic.com/en

THANKS TO THE SYMPATHETIC

marriage of the old and storied and new and contemporary within i-Guru’s twostorey home – complete with artistic lighting and a plethora of thoughtfully chosen art pieces and installations – the venue skillfully unites its historic 19th century surrounds within its funky modern aesthetic while exuding a cool and laidback feel throughout. There is no formality at i-Guru. Far from it, i-Guru is a pleasantly relaxed and unpretentious place to have breakfast, coffee, lunch or a cocktail, or gather with friends for dinner to a backdrop of groovy sounds and spend the night people watching, with the food as

pleasingly down-to-earth as the décor, yet tasty and moreish.

A colourfully appetising fusion of Mediterranean flavours, the artichoke salad with grilled prawns – liberally peppered with pomegranate, parmesan and cherry tomatoes – makes for a delightfully fresh and wholesome lunch. While for something more hearty, i-Guru’s Italian meatballs dish is a warming bowl of love, laden with a herb-rich tomato sauce. Even the restaurant’s signature beef burger –loaded with caramelised onions, local pickles and a delicious mushroom sauce, and served with hand-cut fries – is rather excellent. And not to missed are an array of standout cocktails, one of the best of which is the Mumbai Margarita, made with white tequila, elderflower liqueur, homemade triple sec, fresh lemon juice and a sweet floral rosehip marmalade.

Complementing the culinary experience at i-Guru is an extensive selection of local and international wines, with a friendly sommelier to guide guests through the extensive list, which ranges from excellent Turkish reds to delicate French whites.

MUCH MORE THAN A MERE dining experience, i-Guru is a stylish, innovative and flexible meeting place, enclosed by centuries of history and complete with views of the Galata Tower, which make it the perfect place to pause and unwind during a visit to Istanbul and soak in the city’s charismatic cultural tapestry.

estphotel.com/iguru

Chocolate parfait

Italian meatballs

THERE’S NO STOPPING

FRESH OUT OF A RECENT SABBATICAL,  THE CULTURED TRAVELLER  INTERVIEWS THE ONE MAN DJING PHENOMENON WHO SIGNED HIS FIRST RECORD DEAL JUST OUT OF PUBERTY, WAS VOTED THE WORLD’S BEST DJ AT THE AGE OF 25 AND HASN’T LOOKED BACK SINCE

MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

What is your first musical memory as a child?

I’ve always loved music. I started piano lessons and playing the drums very early in life, so those were really my earliest vivid musical memories as a child. But it wasn’t until I was about 12/13 when it became a huge obsession in my life. Growing up I was always surrounded by music so once I found DJing it just felt like a natural fit to me.

Was there a particular event which prompted you to become a DJ?

An MTV documentary about the Dutch dance music scene sparked my interest in DJing. Shortly after that, I began producing my own music. It’s strange looking back and thinking that what started out as a hobby quickly became my everyday life.

Who inspired you in the early days? And today, who do you most respect in the industry?

The likes of Tiësto, Ferry Corsten and Marco V – who were featured in the aforementioned MTV documentary – were artists I began seeking out because they were pioneering a new electronic music sound and were super inspiring to me at 12-13 years of age. I have a huge respect for any artist or act – Carl Cox or The Prodigy, for example – which has continued to follow its own path and pushed the boundaries of

IMAGE: CHRIS LAVADO

IMAGE: REIN KOOYMAN

playing in ibiza for the first time in 2010, at tiësto’s famed club life party at 10,000-capacity venue privilege, was a real pinch me moment in my early career

IMAGE: PASCAL GRIESEL

creativity. That kind of enthusiasm and passion have always been very inspiring to me.

How did it feel to sign record deal at the age of 14?

I remember being crazily excited about what the future held because signing a record deal at 14 years old felt like my ‘made it’ moment back then. Of course, it was a big occasion, especially because I was still just a young kid. But like anything, it took time to grow and develop and it was only the beginning of a new chapter for me at that time.

Was it difficult to stay grounded and focused at school, while being a professional DJ out of schooling hours?

Not really, but my parents are a big reason for that. They always supported me in my music career, but we agreed early on, that if I was going to pursue this dream, then my schoolwork would not suffer because of it. I’m thankful that they instilled that discipline in me early on, because I believe it has helped me remain grounded throughout my entire career.

What’s the story behind your DJ name?

The name was my dad’s idea. Translating my surname into Latin and hey presto, you get “Hardwell”. So, what started as a simple idea, became this big thing with a life all of its own. All the while it constantly reminds me of being free to express myself, staying passionate and focused on my vision and dreams.

Where and when was your first DJing gig?

My first gig was actually at a friend’s birthday party. I remember it well because I almost felt sick I was so nervous. What’s funny is that on the night of my comeback show in Miami last year, I remembered my very first gig and how I felt as a young kid.

You were recently named an honorary citizen of your city Breda. How did it feel to be bestowed with this recognition and what does it mean, to you, to join your friend and mentor Tijs Verwest, aka Tiësto, in this honour?

Breda is my home and its where all of my dreams began. Although it is a small city, wherever I’ve gone, I’ve always championed the sounds and artists of Breda. Many of them – including Funkerman, W&W, Dannic, Tim Hox and others – have released music on my record label, Revealed Recordings. Well before I established my own career and record label, in my early years, I fondly remember buying my first vinyls at Tiësto's shop in Breda and later, in 2011, working with him on our collaboration Zero 76, which references Breda’s dialing code. The city has always remained close to my heart and so I was deeply moved to be honoured in such a way.

Your 2013 documentary I Am Hardwell charted the growth of the dance music phenomenon as well as your meteoric rise. How do you feel that the dance music industry has changed in the decade since then?

The industry has become more conscious of the impact on individuals of meteoric success and the pressures such a swift rise can bring with it. This increased awareness about the impact on an individual’s mental health is obviously a good thing and will hopefully help younger artists realise that gradually building a career over a steady period of time is a positive thing. You don’t need to be an overnight success to make it in this industry. There are many different paths to achieving one’s goal.

In 2014, you were voted the world’s number one DJ again. Did that change anything for you?

The best thing was just having the chance to absorb it more the second time around. The first time it happened, I experienced a whirlwind of emotions and expectations. Even though I had spent years dreaming about this one goal, I wasn’t really prepared for the craziness of it all when it first happened.

What does “making it” mean to you? Is success often misunderstood?

It’s tough to say because I’m sure it’s different for everyone, but in my view, I think most people believe when you do eventually “make it”, that is it. Everything falls into place and all will be perfect. In reality, nothing really changes that much. You are still you, with the same thoughts and feelings. The process is the part you should enjoy, the rest is largely temporary. Be happy in the successes, but also don’t make it all about the success.

Whilst you most often perform in stadiums, you must have a favourite, more intimate club to play in?

Venues are hard to choose between because every club has its own atmosphere and the crowd depends on

IMAGE: SNAPEPHOTO

the country you’re in. It’s not exactly an intimate club, but I love Ushuaïa! It has this special feeling of being in Ibiza, where you’re at a daytime party, but the venue is incredible, with an amazing sound system. It’s a very special venue.

At your height, you were playing 200 shows per year, which must surely have taken its toll?

Flying so much can take its toll on the body. This is why pilots are limited to the number of hours they’re allowed to fly in any calendar year. I love touring and being on the road, playing shows. But I needed to find the right balance that worked for me, so I can tour and still have that headspace to be creative in the studio.

What ultimately led to you feeling the need to take a break?

I’d gotten to a point where I decided that being Hardwell 24/7 left me with too little energy, love, creativity and time to be a normal person. I had grown as an artist more than I could ever have expected, but I had not grown as a person. So I decided to step away for a moment and be myself again for a while.

There is a lot of pressure to perform and continuously produce hits. Do you think this pressure is sometimes ignored by industry bosses?

Streaming, social media and video are all fantastic tools for artists and fans, but they also mean there’s a thirst for satisfying a constant demand. So I think that the industry has, as a whole, come to expect more, but this is simply because it’s the world we all live in now. However, there’s now a lot of awareness around the pressures not just artists, but all people, feel in their careers, which is hopefully leading us all in the right direction.

During your sabbatical, you also took time out of the studio. Was it difficult to get back into the groove? Not really, because when I walked back into the studio, for the first couple of weeks, I spent my time just listening through my record collection and reconnecting with the dance records from back in the day, when I was 12 or 13 years old. I wanted to reconnect with the records that inspired me at the beginning of my career and use them as inspiration for finding a new pathway for my music. I soon began experimenting, with no pressure to meet a release deadline or a particular show date, and from there, the evolution of what became my latest album, Rebels Never Die, started to take shape.

How did it feel to play Miami’s Ultra Music Festival last year, after your time out?

Because I was playing all new and un-released music, I had no idea what to expect from the fans, since what I was premiering was going to be a completely new Hardwell sound. For that reason, I was incredibly nervous, not because of performing, but because I knew it was going to be very different for some fans. In the eventuality, the reception from the fans was amazing. In all of my life, I had never experienced a show like that. It was an unbelievable buzz to come back in that way.

Since your return, what has changed in the music scene? I’m pleased to see key issues such as sexism, inequality and racism being addressed. Dance music was born out of unity, inclusivity and like-minded people, so this evolution in the scene is a positive step forward and are important issues that needed attention.

Your home sound laboratory was designed by Dutch studio designer, Jan Morel?

Jan’s a genius. He’s designed and built three studios for me now and I honestly don’t think I could trust anyone more with the job of building me a studio. Like Jan, I’m a big fan of Genelec, which is a part of all my studios. His ability to give me the perfect sound balance in the room and create this space where the music is right there in the room, is a very special talent.

Tell us about your 2022 album, Rebels Never Die , which was made solely by you?

The album is a melting pot of styles. I never set out to make a new album, but after a while, I had several albums worth of material. I’m old school and still love the concept of albums, so it just felt like the right way to go about it. I wanted to make a statement with my come back. I could have made the decision to play 50% old and 50% new music, but I felt like that wouldn’t have made the right statement. To me, at the time, it was important to let the world know I was returning with new music, and an album, and a completely new Rebels Never Die stage show was how I wanted to do it.

You've been DJing and producing music for almost two decades. How has your music style evolved over the years, and what has influenced those changes?

My belief has always been

IMAGE: REINOUT BOS

that has an artist you’re always learning and adapting to how the scene is evolving, as well as your own musical environment. When I started out, I was listening and playing music like early tech-trance, house, techno and other forms of electronic music. I even DJd hip hop before all of that. Over the years my sound evolved into what later became tagged as ‘big room’. Nowadays, my sound is a lot more on the tougher edge with big acid hooks, driving bass lines and techy mainstage melodies, which is very similar to a lot of the music I was listening to and playing in my early teenage years. In my opinion, music should be constantly evolving and so should the artists who create it.

Your favourite Hardwell remix to date?

I still really love my remix of Sky Full Of Stars for Coldplay. But more recently I remixed Calvin Harris

Miracle featuring Ellie Goulding, which I also love. It’s such a great track and seeing the response to it in Ibiza, when Calvin dropped it, was amazing. Another one, is the remix my buddy Maddix and I did for David Guetta vs Benny Benassi Satisfaction That’s another amazing track!

You are known for interacting on various social media platforms. Is staying in touch with your fans part of your ethos?

Social media can be a wild beast, so these days

I’m more conscious of not getting too lost down the rabbit hole of just scrolling. But one of the absolutely amazing things about social media is the way it allows me to directly connect with fans. You can only be in one place at any one time in person, but with social media you’re able to let fans in on your world in that moment, and also communicate directly with them, which I love.

you don’t need to be an overnight success to make it in this industry. there are many different paths to achieving one’s goal

Your most memorable DJing moments?

Playing in Ibiza for the first time in 2010, at Tiësto’s famed Club Life party at 10,000-capacity venue Privilege, was a real pinch me moment in my early career. Another is taking my “I AM HARDWELL” world tour to Madison Square Garden for a special sold-out show. And my 2015” World’s Biggest Guestlist” party in Mumbai was an event that will always mean a great deal to me, because more than 70,000 people joined me at the Mumbai's D.Y. Patil Stadium to make a social difference. That particular event lifted 18,000 young kids from the slums of Mumbai and put them into long-term education. We had over 10 million fans from over 80 countries tune into watch the event via livestream and donate to the cause. In 2017, at a similar event, we lifted 100,000 young children into education.

Is Revealed Recordings nurturing a wealth of new talent?

Absolutely! We have so much amazing music coming through the label right now and an army of exciting talent too, which includes Maddix, KAAZE, Tim Hox, VINNE and many others. I always wanted the label to be not just a platform for my own music, but a springboard for other artists to grow their careers.

You criss-cross the world to play DJ gigs. Do you have any tips to combat jet-lag and tiredness associated with travelling?

Personally, I am better spreading out my touring schedule these days. I was always in a rush to do more, but now I believe that everything from my music, my health and my DJing have improved by not having such a busy flight schedule.

What’s your favourite hotel in the world?

Miami is a city with a great energy and feels like a second home to me. It’s also famous for its hotels. The Miami Beach EDITION is a very special oceanfront hotel that never fails to deliver an incredible experience. With one of the co-founders of Studio 54 behind the hotel’s design, it’s no surprise it strikes a perfect balance between classy and quirky. The hotel even has its own nightclub and ice-skating rink.

What advice would you give to budding DJs reading this interview?

I still believe that “if you can dream it, you can do it”. But I also like to encourage emerging talent to enjoy the journey. Don’t rush it. Put in the time and believe in the process and the rest will follow.

What’s next for Hardwell?

Right now, after releasing my Rebels Never Die album, I’m just enjoying working on individual singles, both solo and collaborations, like my recent single Anybody Out There with Azteck and Alex Hepburn. I also have a big techno anthem coming up on Oliver Helden’s record label, Hilomatik, which is a collaboration with Space 92 called The Abyss djhardwell.com

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR THE NINTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

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suite with a view

PRESIDENTIAL SUITE ➤ FAIRMONT QUASAR ISTANBUL, TURKEY

LOCATED IN THE LIVELY Mecidiyeköy neighbourhood in affluent Şişli on the European side of the city, Fairmont Quasar Istanbul’s singular presidential suite seemingly hovers above the entire metropolis, boasting astonishing panoramic vistas in every direction towards the Bosphorus Straight directly ahead. Filling roughly a third of an entire floor of the towering hotel, the suite is set just close enough to Istanbul’s streets to hear the sounds of the city which form the basis of its distinctive and colourful character.

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