The Cultured Traveller, December 2024-February 2025 Issue 48
Shingon Buddhist temple, Daigo-ji, in Fushimi-ku, Kyoto, Japan
48 THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT JAPANESE CULTURE
The pinnacle of Japanese history and civilisation, the former capital of the land of the rising sun also combines big city sophistication with small town charm. Very much Japan's cultural heartbeat today, Alex Benasuli explores dark wood pagodas, torii gates, and thousand-year-old temples in KYOTO.
84 THE TREK OF A LIFETIME TO EVEREST BASE CAMP
Weaving through breathtaking Nepalese landscapes, ancient monasteries, winding rivers, and Sherpa culture, Nicholas Chrisostomou embarks upon an epic adventure to the spectacular foot of the world's highest peak, which sits at more than 5,300 metres above sea level.
76 THE EXTRAORDINARY ARTISTIC LEGACY OF HEIDI HORTEN
The Cultured Traveller explores the artistic legacy of Austria's wealthiest woman, who amassed a near billion-dollar art collection during her lifetime, which is now on permanent display in a magnificent new museum in the heart of Vienna.
128 THE ARCHITECT OF BESPOKE HAIR ELEGANCE
With a global empire of hair spa salons and a lifelong commitment to his craft, visionary hairdresser, ROSSANO FERRETTI, chats to The Cultured Traveller about his revolutionary ‘Method’ haircut and transforming hairdressing into an art form.
46 WIN A LIMITED EDITION BRONZE VERTEX WATCH
Retailing at more than two thousand pounds, VERTEX's limited edition bronze B36 timepiece was inspired by the iconic watches historically supplied to British forces, and was meticulously crafted to commemorate the 80th anniversary of D-Day.
28 REST YOUR HEAD
12 NEWSFLASH
From the French city of Lyon's dazzling citywide display of street and architectural illuminations. FÊTE DES LUMIÈRES, and the Anatolian city of Konya's annual MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL of Turkey's mesmerising whirling dervishes, to one the Caribbean's oldest surviving street festivals, JUNKANOO in the Bahamas, and New Zealand’s vast multi awardwinning music festival, RHYTHM & VINES, in NewsFlash, The Cultured Traveller rounds-up standout events happening around the world during the festive season and beyond.
From a secluded one-of-a-kind boutique hotel in Sri Lanka, THE ROUND HOUSE, surrounded by fields of tea and cinnamon, to Ritz-Carlton's sumptuous new uper-yacht with six restaurants and more than 200 suites, ILMA; Haute Montagne's latest ultraluxe chalet, LORD OF SNOW in Courchevel 1850, and the reborn lodge, SINGITA EBONY, which launched the brand three decades ago, The Cultured Traveller explores a dozen unique places to rest your head across the planet.
68 SUITE ENVY: THE SIAM
Set along the banks of the mighty Chao Phraya, standing as an oasis of enchanting design, timeless elegance, and Thai heritage, Nicholas Chrisostomou checks-into a serene riverside villa at THE SIAM.
98 SPOTLIGHT: KANDY
Surrounded by lush hill country, and the island nation's second largest city after Colombo, Carolyn McKay is enchanted by the history, architecture, and traditions of Sri Lanka's former royal capital of KANDY.
114 TASTE & SIP REVIEW: BUNGALO34
In a waterside location in Dubai, overlooking the Arabian Gulf, an outstanding riviera-style restaurant hugely impresses with its personalised décor, delicious and unpretentious cuisine, attentive service, and warm atmosphere.
119 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER: NIHONBASHI
The first Sri Lankan eatery to make it onto the coveted Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list, and remain there for six years, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the new location of celebrated chef and restaurateur Dharshan Munidasa's Japanese restaurant, NIHONBASHI.
124 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER: CAFÉ SAVOY
MasterChef Finland judge and chef-
patron of one of Finland most revered restaurants, The Cultured Traveller checks out Helena Puolakka's new French brasserie, located in the heart of Helsinki.
130 CHRISTMAS GIFTS GALORE
Whether you're shopping for a fashionista, foodie, a homebody, or an art aficionado, there's something for pretty much everyone in Adrian Gibson's curated round-up of fabulous gifts.
141 LITTLE BLACK BOOK
Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 48 of The Cultured Traveller magazine.
142 SUITE WITH A VIEW
Featuring just 24 bedrooms and suites slotted into a 16th-century palazzo, AMAN VENICE's Grand Canal Suite boasts magnificent eye-level views of the famed city's main waterway.
114
13 124 84
98 130
ALEX BENASULI
➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ KYOTO, JAPAN
London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa, as well as North and South America intimately. As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an offthe-beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.
CAROLYN MCKAY
➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ KANDY, SRI LANKA
Via her photography, writing, and teaching, Carolyn has lived in Jakarta, London, and New York and visited numerous countries in between, documenting her travels with her camera along the way. Currently based in Sri Lanka and using her Indian Ocean base to explore Asia, Carolyn likes nothing more than perusing flea markets, good quality coffee, and people watching.
ADRIAN GIBSON
➤ CURATED OUR ➤ CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE
For more than two decades, Adrian has worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of the world’s leading stores, in London and Dubai, including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new talent wherever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL
EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN
ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING
RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI
THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS
Adrian Gibson, Carolyn McKay, Alex Benasuli
Carol Sachs, Howard Healy
WITH THANKS TO Jason Friedman, Namgyal Sherpa, Elena Sen Pasang Temba Sherpa, Lhakpa D. Sherpa, Pia Sääf Shalini Canagasabey, Lee Sutton, Juliet Dunne
The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté, London
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Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
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The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.
Read issue 48 of The Cultured Traveller here ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/ 48
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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ. LONDON W2 1AY, UK
COVER: A Japanese woman gazes at the Yasaka Pagoda in Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto. The five-storey pagoda is the last remaining structure of a 6th-century temple complex known as Hōkan-ji.
THE ICONIC 5* HOTEL
IN THE HEART OF CORTINA D’AMPEZZO
THE QUEEN OF THE DOLOMITES
WITH SO MUCH TURMOIL ongoing in the world, not to mention the impending change of government in the States, it's perhaps a little difficult for some of us to think about travelling overseas at the moment. I get it. Just recently, as I was flying from Dubai to Athens, the Israel Gaza war prompted the closure of Jordanian air space, extending the flight, because the pilot was forced to take a longer route. However, once at my destination and seated in the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus waiting for a concert to begin, getting there was already a distant memory and Athens' unique energy had taken over. That's the thing about travel - we may moan about getting somewhere, or encounter delays caused by one thing or another, but once there, it's all about the destination and experiencing something new, or something different. Earlier this year, this was brought home to me when I was lucky enough to trek to Everest Base Camp. A journey I had never before dreamt of taking, or thought I could possibly complete, ended-up becoming an experience of a lifetime, at the same time imbuing me with a newfound sense of reverence for Mother Nature (page 84).
ALSO IN THIS FORTY-EIGHTH ISSUE OF The Cultured Traveller, Alex Benasuli explores the ancient former capital of the land of the rising sun and enjoys every second of his time in Kyoto (page 48). Meanwhile, Carolyn McKay visits another former capital, in Sri Lanka, where she is moved by the history, architecture, and traditions of Kandy (page 98)
In Vienna, we meet the driving force behind the city's newest cultural landmark, and learn about the life of Austria's wealthiest woman and her incredible art collection (page 76). And because the festive season is upon us, Adrian Gibson curates an array of inspired Christmas gifts, suggesting something for everyonefashionistas, foodies, and art aficionados alike (page 130)
WHILST THINGS MAY NOT always go precisely to plan, flights are occasionally delayed, and airports are busier than we'd like, nothing beats the memories one can make when exploring a new destination. This Christmas, if you take time to plan a new year trip to somewhere a little out of your comfort zone, I feel quite sure that it will turn out to be your experience of a lifetime.
Season's greetings from my home to yours,
Nicholas
Editor-in-Chief
@TCTEditor nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com
Chrisostomou
From left to right: Kandy, Sri Lanka; Kyoto, Japan; Statue of Tenzing Norgay at Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre, Nepal; Heidi Horten
THE WORLD SEEMINGLY COMES ALIVE OVER THE FESTIVE SEASON, WITH EVERYTHING FROM CHRISTMAS MARKETS TO MUSIC FESTIVALS AND COLOURFUL CARNIVALS HAPPENING ACROSS THE PLANET. IN NEWSFLASH, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ROUNDS-UP AN ARRAY OF EVENTS THAT ARE WORTH CHECKING-OUT DURING THE COMING MONTHS
GLOW WILD AT WAKEHURST
NESTLED IN THE heart of the beautiful Sussex countryside and often referred to by some as a “living botanical laboratory”, Wakehurst wild botanic gardens is home to Kew Gardens’ Millennium Seed Bank and a diverse landscape that is used daily by scientists. Every festive season, deftly combining art, beauty, and horticulture with Christmas spirit, the Wakehurst team painstakingly builds a Glow Wild light trail through the gardens, carefully
positioning every piece of bespoke art, with the artists themselves helping to setup their one-of-a-kind creations. This year’s theme is The Enchanting World of Trees, and the trail features pieces by an array of international artists, more than 1,000 hand-crafted lanterns, and two large animal figures at the heart of the trail. And for the first time in the trail’s 11 year history, you can experience the magic of Glow Wild on Christmas Eve. Until 1 January 2025 www.kew.org/glowwild
FÊTE DES LUMIÈRES
RELIGIOUSLY ATTRACTING tens of thousands of people, once a year, the French city of Lyon is transformed into a sparkling metropolitan wonderland, courtesy of a dazzling citywide display of street and architectural illuminations. Essentially extending the traditional 8th December festival, when Lyon residents celebrate the Virgin Mary, Fête des Lumières was born from an age-old tradition dating back to 1643. Today, this extravagant urban affair comprises a multitude of professionally run light performances spread over a four-night programme. Each evening is headed by a different theme, complete with video, music and sound effects to compliment the dynamic imagery seen throughout the city, including in its rivers and parks. And whilst professional lighting designers, hailing from all corners of the planet, share their imaginative installations, local folk also get involved by burning candles on their windowsills and balconies, further enhancing the overall spectacle. 5-8 December 2024 www. fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr
IMAGE: JEFF
EDEN
KRAMPUSNACHT
DESCRIBED IN AUSTRIAN folklore as a horned, anthropomorphic half-goat half-demon which haunts the central European mountainous region that supposedly birthed the creature, //Krampus// comes alive during an annual festival which spreads some good old-fashioned pre-Christmas terror! Nowhere does this devil rampage more shockingly than in the town of Klagenfurt on the eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee in south Austria. Here, the biggest and most rowdy Krampusnacht unfolds every year, brimming with
ghastly demons quite literally everywhere. The highlight of Krampusnacht is essentially an alcohol fuelled Krampuslauf race, which winds through the pedestrian-friendly city centre of Klagenfurt, with a thousand alpine-jogging contestants dressed as scary, horned devils. So terrifyingly demonic are Krampus costumes that a constant debate rages throughout Austria, involving a number of eminent psychologists and reputable schools, which want the creature completely banned from society, because it's so scary to children.
5 December 2024
HORNBILL FESTIVAL
NORTH EAST INDIA IS unique in that it is home to a number of differing tribes, each having its own cultural celebration or agricultural festival. Largely covered by forests and mountains that render it pretty isolated from the rest of the world, more than half of the region’s population is heavily dependent upon agriculture. Hornbill (named after the bird) is something of the ultimate Indian festival, for it sees the coming together of all seventeen of the neighbouring Naga tribes, in the Indian state of Nagaland, to celebrate their unique cultural heritage, supported by local organisations and councils. The tribes spend ten days in Naga Heritage Village in Kisama, near Kohima, and partake in a variety of activities. There's everything from craft events, sculpture displays, food markets and stalls selling herbal products to traditional music, sporting events, fashion shows, tribal ceremonies and arousing performances. Locals even crown Miss Nagaland in a beauty pageant. 1-10 December 2024
www. hornbillfestival.com
MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL
HELD IN THE ANATOLIAN CITY OF Konya and also known as Şeb-i Arûs , Mevlâna attracts visitors from all corners of the world, and few people haven’t heard of Turkey’s mesmerising whirling dervishes, or mevlevi . Accompanied by orchestral music and dressed in their voluminous white robes, their ecstatic, trance-like spinning and chanting makes for a truly spellbinding spectacle. 10-17 December 2024
https:// goturkiye.com
WINTER SOLSTICE
THE NORTHERN Hemisphere's shortest day and the Southern Hemisphere's longest day is the moment that the sun is directly above the Tropic of Capricorn in the Southern Hemisphere. This is the southernmost latitude it reaches during the year. After the winter solstice, the sun begins moving north again. Coinciding with the winter solstice, Yule is an ancient Pagan festival that brings crowds to the prehistoric monument of Stonehenge, the stones of which have silently marked the winter solstice for thousands of years. The site is also aligned in the direction of the sunrises on the annual solstices. With some dressed in Druid robes or bedecked with Pagan garlands, thousands gather early in the morning (some religious, some not) to a backdrop of drumbeats, chanting, and songs, to quietly watch the sunrise on the winter solstice and begin the festival of Yule. To date, English Heritage has been committed to providing free access to Stonehenge for solstice celebrations. 21 December 2024 www. english-heritage.org.uk
KWANZAA
AN ANNUAL, WEEK-LONG
African-American celebration of life, predominantly held in the United States, Dr. Maulana Karenga first introduced Kwanzaa in 1966 in response to the commercialism of Christmas, as a ritual to welcome the first harvests. Though often considered an alternative to Christmas, many people actually celebrate both, not least because Kwanzaa is a cultural holiday with a spiritual quality, rather than a religious holiday. Honouring
African heritage in African-American culture, Kwanzaa is observed from 26th December through 1st January, culminating in a feast and gift-giving. Each day is dedicated to one of Kwanzaa's seven core principles, with seven candles used to represent concepts of the holiday: umoja (unity); kujichagulia (selfdetermination); ujima (collective work and responsibility); ujamaa (co-operative economics); nia (purpose); kuumba (creativity) and imani (faith).
26 December 2024 - 1 January 2025 www. officialkwanzaawebsite.org
PROTOTYPE
A CO-PRODUCTION of Beth Morrison Projects and HEREtwo leaders in the creation and presentation of contemporary, multi-disciplinary opera-theatre and music-theatre - it took just five years for PROTOTYPE to prompt The New Yorker magazine to announce that the festival was “essential to the evolution of American Opera". Indeed, five years later, and PROTOTYPE is today, almost certainly, the most important presenter of innovative new operas, experimental theatre and musical works in New York, mounting both complete
JUNKANOO
WHEN NASSAU'S main artery of Bay Street is a heaving sea of sight and sound, Junkanoo is in town! Delighting and entertaining all who experience this annual happening, and the high point of the festive season for all Bahamians, Junkanoo traces its roots back to the late 18th century music and dance spectacles of West Africa, and is one of the oldest surviving street festivals in the Caribbean. Legend has it, that slaves of old, decorated themselves using
performances as well as works-in-progress through partnerships with local performing arts venues. Since launching, PROTOTYPE has produced and presented well over a hundred performances, shared the works of numerous local, national and international artists, exposed visionary work to tens of thousands of people, and filled dozens of stages across New York City’s multiple boroughs. This year’s 10-day programme features rising stars and established performers, and includes the world premiere of Eat the Document by John Glover and Kelley Rourke. 9-19 January 2025
https:// prototypefestival.org
RHYTHM & VINES
whatever scrap materials were available, the easiest to lay their hands on being paper and feathers, while flour paste was used to paint their faces. Nowadays, Junkanoo is a vibrant celebration of life and freedom and the major cultural festival of the Bahamas. But you'll need stamina to be part of Junkanoo, because it is celebrated twice during the festive season, in the early hours of Boxing Day, followed by the main event, one week later, on New Year’s Day. 26 December 2024 + 1 January 2025
www. bahamas.com/junkanoo
THE FIRST COUNTRY in the world to enjoy the first sunrise of 2025 will be New Zealand, and what better place to wave goodbye to 2024 and welcome a fresh new year than Rhythm & Vines. Held for more than 20 years at Waiohika Estate family vineyard, close to the city of Gisborne, New Zealand’s vast, annual, and multi award-winning music festival is spread across three days and multiple stages. Past headliners
have included Calvin Harris and Mark Ronson and this year’s line-up is no less impressive, headlined by American rapper Ice Spice (pictured) who is the newest artist to come out of the Bronx - the birthplace of Hip-Hop. Also headlining will be UK Garage and bassline star, Sammy Virji, and Australian electronic dance music producer, Christian Benson, known professionally as Luude. 29-31 December 2024
www. rhythmandvines.co.nz
SKATE AT SOMERSET HOUSE
A STYLISH LONDON TRADITION FOR MORE THAN two decades, don your finest winter fashions to trip the ice fantastic at this fabulous outdoor rink, where you will look the very picture of glamour whether an amateur or seasoned skater. Après skate, refuel with gourmet fare at The Chalet by Jimmy Garcia, or sip rosé rink-side at the Skate Lounge. Until 12 January 2025 www. somersethouse.org.uk
HAY FESTIVAL CARTAGENA DE INDIAS
THE HAY FESTIVAL originated in Hay-OnWye in Wales in 1988 and has since grown into one of the most powerful and acclaimed literary festivals in the world. In addition to hosting high profile and emerging writers, guests and speakers that include politicians, economists, musicians, scientists, comedians, philosophy lecturers and film industry professionals, and a host of other intellectual talent from all over the world. In 2007, the Hay launched in Cartagena as a means to include Nobel Prize winner Gabriel
García Márquezas as star speaker - who it is believed had until then refused invitations to attend the festival in the UK. This coincided with the 40th anniversary of the release of his book, One Hundred Years of Solitude.
Nowadays the festival is the most important literary event in Latin America, hosting lively debates and many conservation and education based projects that form part of the calendar, attracting students, journalists, members of the public, and writers to the culturing inspiring city of Cartagena. 30 January - 2 February 2025 www. hayfestival.com/cartagena
THE TAPATI RAPA NUI
LYING 3,500 kilometres off the coast of Chile and renowned worldwide for its archaeological sites – including 887 monumental carved human moai figures with oversized heads – somewhat remote and volcanic Easter Island, is a Chilean territory in Polynesia. For two weeks every February, the festival of Tapati Rapa Nui is held to commemorate the arrival of the island's first Polynesian settlers and their supreme chief, Hotu Matu’a, who together populated the then uninhabited island. Celebrated during the austral summer, which coincides with the high season of the southern hemisphere, Tapati promotes Rapa Nui ancestral customs through song, dance, arts, traditional dress and ancient traditions. An exotic and uniquely Polynesian festival like no other, visitors are encouraged to slide down steep slopes on banana trunks and participate in dance competitions, and the culmination of the festival is when two families boogie it out on the dance floor to crown the Queen of Tapati.
1-14 February 2025
www.easterislandspirit.com/tapati-festival
Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL
THE FIRST SAPPORO Snow Festival was held in 1950 and consisted of just six snow statues built by local high school students. Today the festival is one of Japan's most popular winter events, and has snowballed into a sprawling white wonderland, attracting people from around the world to the capital of the mountainous northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, a popular ski spot probably best known for its beer. Known as Yuki Matsuri locally, the snow festival centers on Odori Park in downtown Sapporo, where giant sculptures of snow and ice stand along a trail of more than a kilometre which is illuminated at night. There are two other sites: Tsudome, a community dome with large snow slides and a tobogganing zone, where the festival starts a few days earlier. And Susukino Ice World, where visitors can touch and ride some of the sculptures.
4-11 February 2025
www. snowfes.com/en
QUÉBEC WINTER CARNIVAL
WHILE MOST OF US spend the winter months doing our best to avoid ice and snow, the inhabitants of the picturesque Frenchspeaking province of Québec City do the very opposite, and positively revel in the frigid surroundings, celebrating the joie de vivre of carnival season in freezing, sub-zero fashion. Québec City held its first large carnival in 1894, but the annual event was interrupted by two wars and an economic crisis before the first official edition of the Québec Winter Carnival took place in 1955. The largest winter shindig in the world has been an annual event ever since, and comprises parades, an outdoor amusement park, giant ice slides, and snow sculpture competitions, not to mention a fair amount of eating, drinking, and general merry making, plus traditional dogsled and canoe races. Not to be missed is the Ice Palace, constructed with compacted snow bricks and lit up at night with thousands of coloured lights.
7-16 February 2025
https:// carnaval.qc.ca/en
SUPER BOWL LIX
THE MOST IMPORTANT day of the professional American football season, when millions of fans who can’t make it to the stadium are glued to the couch for the duration of what is often the most watched American television program of the year, Super Bowl LIX will be the 59th Super Bowl and the 55th modern-era National Football League championship game. It will be played at the Caesars Superdome in New Orleans, Louisiana, and will be the 11th time the city has hosted the famous game, which will decide the league champions for the 2024 NFL season. The Super Bowl’s halftime show has always attracted major talent. Janet Jackson had her infamous wardrobe malfunction in 2004. Previous headliners have included Michael Jackson, Prince, Madonna, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé. This year, California rapper Kendrick Lamar (pictured) will headline what is one of the most important shows of the year. 9 February 2025
www. nfl.com/super-bowl
Kendrick Lamar
VENICE CARNIVAL
THE WORLD’S oldest and grandest carnival of all, has led revellers through the ancient backstreets and canals of the beautiful and vibrant Italian city of Venice for generations, revealing hidden parties, exclusive costume balls, and countless secret rendezvous, with many party goers dressed in magnificent 18th century costumes and beautifully ornate masks. 22 February - 4 March 2025 https:// carnevale.venezia.it/en
TAIWAN LANTERN FESTIVAL
MARKING THE arrival of spring after new year, held during the “Yuan Xiao” period and dating back decades, the annual lantern festival is one of the most important and romantic dates on the Taiwanese calendar. Whilst many activities happen all over Taiwan during the Lantern Festival, including thousands of sky lanterns rising over Pingxi District in New Taipei, the main event consists of four exhibition areas, one central installation, and six other major installations
BERLINALE
THE BERLIN INTERNATIONAL Film Festival is one of the world’s leading cinematic events, held annually in February, drawing thousands of visitors every year, transforming the city into a cultural epicentre. Founded in West Berlin in 1951, the festival has become a global hub for film enthusiasts, showcasing a diverse array of films from across the globe. With screenings that span genres, styles, and cultural backgrounds, the Berlinale celebrates both established filmmakers and emerging voices,
offering them a prestigious platform. The festival’s coveted Golden Bear award symbolises the highest recognition, while the Silver Bears acknowledge individual achievements in acting, directing, and screenplay. A distinctive feature of the Berlinale is its commitment to social issues; many selected films engage with current socio-political themes, creating dialogue around pressing global concerns. With its eclectic programme and influential industry market, the Berlinale remains a current and vital force in international cinema. 13-23 February 2025 www. berlinale.de
as part of a massive lantern collection covering over 100 hectares. Located at National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, the festival's central exhibition area features the main lantern, three other major lanterns, and a number of themed displays, with innovative content combined with traditional lantern art and cross-discipline lighting technology, and works by both local and international artists. While lanterns take to the skies, locals traditionally eat rice dumplings with sweet and savoury fillings, known as tangyuan 12 February 2025
SAUTI ZA BUSARA
LITERALLY MEANING
‘sounds of wisdom’ in Swahili but so much more than a music festival, Sauti za Busara showcases some of the best emerging musical talent from across the African continent, and takes place in the old Stone Town part of Zanzibar City every February. Organised by a non-profit NGO, not only does Sauti za Busara send traditional African sounds around Stone Town’s historic Old Fort for three days and nights, providing an opportunity for local and international artists to perform side-by-side, but
the festival also fuels the growth and professionalisation of the region’s creative sector, and promotes Zanzibar as a destination for cultural tourism. Namechecked by the BBC as "one of Africa's best and most respected music events", film screenings and comedy shows fill the gaps between the many musical performances, and daily networking sessions offer opportunities for artists, managers, promoters, media and other professionals to meet, connect and exchange. 14-16 February 2025 https:// busaramusic.org
SAIDAIJI EYO
HELD ANNUALLY IN the capital city of Okayama Prefecture in the Chūgoku region of Japan, Okayama’s Saidai-ji Eyo gets more international attention than most, for it is essentially thousands of nearly naked men scrambling to find lucky objects. Commonly known as 'Hadaka Matsuri’ ('Naked Festival’), in a ritual that started more than 500 years ago, the loincloth-clad men enter the temple in the evening to purify their bodies. Having stood in the cold until 10pm, the lights are turned off and a priest throws a pair of wooden shingi (sticks) into the crowd. For the next few hours, the men jostle to be the first to carry one of the sticks out of the temple, be blessed with luck for a year and win a cash prize. While the shingi are the main object of desire, dozens of other lucky objects are also tossed into the crowd for good measure. The result is a mass, drawn-out scramble of male flesh which has been known to turn nasty! carnival-like feel.
9 15 February 2025
ADELAIDE FRINGE
HELD IN THE SOUTH
Australian beachside capital of Adelaide between mid-February and mid-March every year and founded more than 60 years ago, the Adelaide Fringe is the largest arts festival in the southern hemisphere and features more than 7,000 artists from Australia and around the world. Even during the midst of the pandemic in 2021, more than 600,000 tickets were purchased. Being an open access festival, anyone brave enough to step on stage is literally welcome to
perform. This means that originality and diversity are at the heart of the Adelaide Fringe, with audiences ranging from children to grandparents and performers coming from all walks of life. Indeed, the eclectic and vibrant range of events that fill the festival’s 31 days and nights include cabaret, theatre, comedy, circus, music, visual arts and workshops, offering something for everyone, complete with markets and a spectacular nightly animated 'Parade of Light’.
21 February - 23 March 2025 https:// adelaidefringe.com.au
ATI-ATIHAN
WHILE FILIPINOS ARE KNOWN worldwide for their gracious hospitality and friendly nature, Ati-Atihan is probably the most spectacular of the Philippines’ annual celebrations, and allows visitors a glimpse of their wild, colourful and playful side. Essentially a non-stop, show-stopping visual treat of exhibitionism, costume, music and dance, Ati-Atihan is also believed to be the oldest festival in the country.
21 January 2025
rest your
ZALLAQ ➤ AHANGAMA
THE ST. REGIS AL MOUJ MUSCAT RESORT
LOCATED ON THE GULF OF OMAN’S BLUE WATERS AND home to some two million people, the ancient port city of Muscat offers visitors a relaxed glimpse into the Sultanate’s immense history and rich culture, together with a calm blend of old-world Arabian charm and unpretentious modernity.
Renowned for its mosaic-covered mosques, enchanting architecture, warm and welcoming residents, and a plethora of historic sites, Muscat is dedicated to preservation, so even modern buildings are dotted with domes and punctuated by Arabesque windows and other traditional features, which makes the cityscape somewhat unassuming and unique for the Gulf. The resulting destination is seemingly trapped in time yet punctuated by modern museums, vibrant markets, and an array of luxury hotels.
Tucked behind Muscat’s international airport, Oman’s first St. Regis hotel is within walking distance of the beachfront enclave of Al Mouj, which means "The Wave”. A fresh, new development of low-rise residential blocks, enclosing a cluster of street cafés and restaurants
leading towards a small marina, this delightful new part of the city fills the lovely sandy beach that connects it with The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort, which has been designed to evoke the elegance of a serene cruise liner, courtesy of its curvaceous superyacht-style design.
As a hotel, The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort deftly blends Omani heritage and striking contemporary architecture with the glamour of the St. Regis brand, bringing a welcome Riviera-esqe feel to the city’s waterfront.
All of the hotel’s 250 extremely spacious and lavishly appointed guest rooms and suites boast private balconies, with one-to-threebedroom duplexes suites also featuring private plunge pools. At 60 square-metres, standard entry-level rooms offer guests junior-suite like comforts, including sofas and over-sized bathrooms, not to mention a soothing colour palette of oceanic tones, imbued with rich tan and local natural stone, nodding to Oman’s breathtaking natural landscapes. https:// stregis.com
head
FROM A ONE-OF-A-KIND CIRCULAR BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN SRI LANKA, SURROUNDED BY FIELDS OF TEA AND CINNAMON, TO A NEW LUXURY SUPER YACHT WITH SIX RESTAURANTS AND MORE THAN 200 SUITES, CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN, AND THE REBORN SAFARI LODGE THAT LAUNCHED THE SINGITA BRAND THREE DECADES AGO, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER EXPLORES A DOZEN UNIQUE PLACES TO REST YOUR HEAD ACROSS THE PLANET
COMO METROPOLITAN SINGAPORE
A SOMEWHAT FUTURISTIC CITY WITH A UNIQUE AND DIVERSE culture, consistently ranked one of the world’s wealthiest, and renowned for its opulence and hospitality, in many ways Singapore is also a city of excess. A huge Asian financial center with a high standard of living, the island state boasts dozens of Michelin-starred eateries, ranging from street food outlets to high-end restaurants, and yet Singapore’s dining scene continues to grow.
Love it or hate it, Singaporean architectural landmark, Marina Bay Sands hotel contains more than 2,500 rooms within its three towers. The entire Las Vegas-like complex was built on reclaimed land. Now a fourth tower is in the process of being built, which will add a further 1,000 rooms to Marina Bay Sands’ inventory.
Even Gardens By The Bay, which has attracted more than 50 millions visitors since opening in 2012, boasts the world’s largest glass greenhouse, covering 1.28 hectares under its striking Calatrava-like roof.
Thankfully for travellers who crave peace, quiet, and a semblance of tranquility when they’re not pounding the city’s streets, new COMO Metropolitan Singapore hotel exudes a welcome air of refined style.
Something of an urban oasis, nestled on a side street yet located in the heart of the main shopping thoroughfare of Orchard Road, the 156-room COMO opened its sophisticated doors little more than a year ago and is the brand's first property in its native Singapore.
Quietly luxurious, complete with a sprawling Como Shambhala spa, a cutting-edge gym, yoga and pilates studios, a glass-walled roof-top infinity pool, guests enjoy spectacular skyline views from stylish rooms and suites spread over 11 floors. The hotel is part of the COMO Orchard complex, which includes the first Asian outpost of superstar French pâtissier, Cédric Grolet, and a multi-label fashion store curated by Club 21, featuring Thom Browne, Jacquemus, and Simone Rocha.
The hotel’s Sky Bar boasts all the panoramic cityscape views one could possibly wish for, and the property is home to Korean steakhouse, COTE, which blends Korean barbecue cuisine with carnivore-pleasing American classics.
For a metropolitan sanctuary amidst Singapore’s polished hustle and bustle, choose the COMO to switch-off in style at the end of a busy day.
www. comohotels.com
L'ABBAYE DES VAUX-DE-CERNAY
LOCATED 45 MINUTES SOUTHWEST OF PARIS IN AN AREA protected from industrial development, in the Île-de-France region of northern France, verdant Upper Chevreuse Valley Regional Natural Park contains a wide variety of unique historical sites all of which have been slowly shaped by time. A predominantly rural natural open-air heritage museum, the park is both inhabited and open to everyone, and brings together a remarkable set of natural, cultural, and ancient attractions. All human activity which evolves in the region deeply respects the environment, which is criss-crossed by an array of biking trails that take in the best of the wonderful scenery.
Set within the heart of the park, Cernay-la-Ville is a suburban village which was formerly renowned for being home to landscape painters, who were attracted by the beauty of the place. A few kilometres from the town centre lies a former Cistercian abbey that dates back to the 12th century, surrounded by 185 acres of unspoilt countryside.
Lovingly restored and reimagined as a chic new country hotel by The Paris Society hospitality group, l'Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay opened just over a year ago after a meticulous EUR 60 million four-year restoration and redesign, and now combines the spirit of a contemporary members club with British country manor charm and refined Parisian elegance. Home to 145 well-dressed bedrooms and suites fashioned by French
Dior designer Cordélia de Castellane, the estate's tranquil lake invites guests to pedalo, fish, or chill-out in boats on the water. Three on-site restaurants marry seasonal produce with traditional French cuisine. Art studios, a cinema room, and a kids’ club keep younger guests busy. And a sumptuous spa, curated in collaboration with premium skincare brand Tata Harper, boasts seven treatment rooms, a wellness area, and a heated outdoor swimming pool. www. abbayedesvauxdecernay.com
HOTEL SOSEI SAPPORO
A PORT CITY ON THE SOUTHWEST PART OF THE ISLAND OF Hokkaidō, located to the north of Tokyo, Sapporo is bordered by the Sea of Japan to the west, the Sea of Okhotsk to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the east and south. Gaining worldwide fame in 1972 when the city hosted the Winter Olympic Games, Japan’s fifth largest conurbation combines metropolitan life and the attractions of much larger cities with access to a world of wonderful nature, with the entire region transforming into a winter wonderland from December each year.
As well as local arts, crafts and traditional culture, great food, vibrant nightlife, and an annual snow festival held in February, Sapporo is also a popular gateway to the region for many travellers starting their Hokkaidō adventures.
Within walking distance of the urban oasis of Odori Park, and one of Japan's largest entertainment districts, Susukino, Hotel Sosei Sapporo is located on the historic site of Japan's very first beer brewery, which was founded during the Meiji period. Later becoming the Sapporo Brewery, having been passed down from the days of the 1876 Kaitakushi business, the brewery led to the industrial development of the city. This frontier spirit and unique history is reflected in the hotel’s design, providing guests with a unique blend of Japanese and Western elements, while also revealing stories of the past, complete with a carefully considered nod to the future.
118 luxe rooms and suites blend of global hospitality with personal charm and make the perfect base from which to explore all that the vibrant city has to offer, including world-class shopping, beautiful Nagayama Memorial Park, landmark Sapporo TV Tower, and Japan's only museum dedicated to beer, which explores the long history of Sapporo. www. hotelsoseisapporo.com
MANLY PACIFIC
A BUSTLING, FAST-PACED, AND COSMOPOLITAN METROPOLIS, which combines Belle Epoque architecture at every turn with grand leafy avenues, lively cafés, superb dining and happening nightlife, Argentina’s dynamic capital of Buenos Aires is a wonderful destination for a city break. From La Boca’s brightly coloured buildings and cobblestoned streets, to San Telmo’s antique shops and colonial architecture, Buenos Aires is imbued with Latin passion throughout its unique mix of old and new and everything in between.
Located in the centre of Buenos Aires, within 15-minutes’ walk of the Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Calle Arroyo has become one of the city’s most desirable streets, and was even baptised by Eduardo Mallea as the “elbow of aristocracy in Buenos Aires”. Displaying a distinctly classical French style via its many beautiful mansions and residences, the street boasts a many important and historical buildings, as well as architectural gems from the porteño past.
In the heart of the fashionable Recoleta neighbourhood, on stylish Calle Arroyo, Hotel Casa Lucia opened its doors earlier this year. A veritable love letter to Argentina, set within the historic Edificio Mihanovich building (which was at one time the tallest building in Latin America), Casa Lucia captures the charm of historic Buenos Aires while celebrating the contemporary flair of the nation’s artistic creativity. Bringing together the latest creative talent from a variety of local design houses, including South American Fernanda Schuch Studios, the hotel’s historic roots deftly work in tandem with modern, designer furnishings and
imposing contemporary art to create beautiful and inviting spaces from the striking lobby upwards.
Many of the hotel’s 142 guest rooms and suites boasts balconies with outdoor showers and sun loungers, and offer residents the unique opportunity to dine al fresco in complete privacy while enjoying spectacular views across the city. Rooms are also hung with contemporary art by awardwinning Argentine artist Cristián Mohaded, whose work is on display in the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Musée Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
On street level, Cantina Restaurant draws inspiration from authentic Argentine aromas and flavours, while capturing the essence of the land with fresh, local ingredients. And next door, Le Club Bacan is a spirited cocktail bar, helmed by cocktail master Martín Suaya, that has already become a popular gathering spot for locals and travellers alike.
https:// manlypacific.com.au
THE HOXTON VIENNA
THE GRAND CAPITAL OF AUSTRIA HAS ALWAYS BEEN A bastion of tradition, history and elegance. Some would say that it is also shy and retiring. Granted, Vienna is not the most exciting of European capitals and it is happily not a “party city”. But almost everywhere you walk, the city impresses with its imposing buildings, lavish palaces, lush parks, all-round grandeur, and stately architecture. And in recent years, a cluster of hip new hotels has been adding fun and frolicking to the city’s burgeoning hospitality scene. The most recent of these is The Hoxton Vienna, which opened last year in the Austrian capital’s third district – a neighbourhood close to Stadtpark, which is renowned for being home to some of the city’s best art and design schools, and museums.
Formerly home to the Austrian Chamber of Commerce, The Hoxton Vienna fills the entirety of an architecturally important 1950s Carl Appel-designed landmark building, which served as a key starting point for the hotel’s interior design scheme, and has been carefully preserved and positively celebrated throughout the 196 bedrooms which reference early 20thcentury Austrian design. From geometric patterned curtains to ruched headboards, even the smallest rooms feel calm and welcoming, with local photography adorning the walls, bold painted ceilings, and warm timber accents.
An expansive, light-filled double-height lobby is framed by original travertine-clad walls and terrazzo flooring, and is furnished with inviting sofas, comfy armchairs, and mid-century lighting. Fashionable and bustling, the lobby serves as a crossroads for in-house guests and visitors passing through en route to one of the hotel’s many food and beverage offerings, which include a cutesy bistro on street level, Bouvier, with an
open kitchen and a terrace for al fresco dining in the summer. A low-key coffee and sandwich shop, also on the lobby level, serves fresh pastries and lunch rolls by day, and wine and cocktails in the evenings.
Down a level, and you will find speakeasy-inspired subterranean bar and jazz club, Salon Paradise, that deftly captures the essence of the creative, free-spirited and experimental Beat Generation. And crowning the building, Cayo Coco brings loud tropical energy to Vienna with its punchy pisco sours, over-sized rum cocktails, and Caribbean barbecued bar snacks, complete with a heated swimming pool for late-night dips, plenty of space for open-air socialising dining, and captivating views offering almost 360-degree views across the city’s rooftops towards the Austrian Alps.
A trendy yet relaxed palace of fun, humming in the heart of the Austrian capital, The Hoxton Vienna can very much be a one-stop-shop for those who wish to sleep, eat, drink, and party in one lively central Viennese location. https:// thehoxton.com
SINGITA EBONY
NESTLED WITHIN NORTH-EASTERN SOUTH AFRICA’S ICONIC
Greater Kruger National Park, Sabi Sands Game Reserve offers an exquisite blend of pristine wilderness and unrivalled wildlife experiences. Covering 65,000 hectares of untamed bushveld, this private reserve is famed for its unfenced 50-kilometre boundary with Kruger, creating a harmonious coexistence that allows animals to roam freely between the two areas.
The landscape is a tapestry of rivers, grasslands, and acacia-dotted savannas, providing an ideal habitat for Africa’s Big Five: lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhinoceros. Sabi Sands is particularly renowned for its prolific sightings of the elusive leopard, with many people enjoying remarkably close encounters. Beyond the Big Five, one can also spot cheetahs, hyenas, wild dogs and an incredible variety of birdlife, including vultures, eagles and storks, making it a true Eden for wildlife enthusiasts.
Very much the matriarch of the collection, having opened in 1993 and been the very first lodge, Singita Ebony has been transformed courtesy of a chic redesign, which has breathed new life into the traditional safari experience, to meet the changing needs of today’s modern traveller.
Skilfully bridging the old and new, the Cécile & Boyd refresh has opened a new chapter for the lodge where the Singita story began, giving Ebony a newfound sense of space and freedom, with several new lounge and deck areas encouraging relaxed, uninterrupted views, antiques and heirlooms filling every space, modern artworks crafted by local artisans adorning the walls, and a saturated palette of hues and textures taking its cues from Mother Nature.
https://singita.com
LORD OF SNOW
NESTLED IN THE FRENCH ALPS, COURCHEVEL IS THE CROWN jewel of Les Trois Vallées, the largest interconnected ski area in the world. Its four villages, each perched at varying altitudes, offer skiers direct access to more than 600 kilometres of impeccably groomed pistes. From the gentle greens, ideal for beginners, to the more technical black runs for the adventurous, Courchevel caters to all abilities with effortless elegance. The Saulire and Creux pistes are particularly beloved for their breathtaking views and thrilling descents. And for those seeking off-piste challenges, the Vallée des Avals offers pristine powdercovered terrain.
Beyond skiing, Courchevel boasts a range of Michelin-starred restaurants, offering refined Alpine cuisine and international fare, and visitors can also enjoy art galleries, classical music performances, and cultural festivals throughout the season.
After four years in the making, ultra-luxe chalet specialists, Haute Montagne, have just introduced a veritable new superyacht in the snow, in the form of show-stopping ski-in ski-out Lord of Snow, located on the Bellecote piste in Courchevel 1850.
Designed by renowned French architect, Sophie Decoopman, who is famed for her ability to sensitively combine tradition with refined
modernity, every inch of the 1,200 square-metre six-floor chalet has been meticulously designed. And using a wealth of natural materials –including European larch cladding, oak parquet flooring, and real Lauze (slate) on the roofs – has harmonised the immense seven-bedroom state-of-the-art property with its alpine surroundings, thus providing ski lovers with an unrivalled experience in one of the world's most prestigious ski destinations. https:// hautemontagne.com
THE RITZ-CARLTON RABAT, DAR ES SALAM
A TRANQUIL OASIS JUST OUTSIDE THE BUSTLING CITY OF Rabat, Dar es Salam is set amidst verdant forests and rolling hills, whilst architecturally blending traditional Moroccan elements with understated modern touches, and embracing the area’s Hispano-Moorish heritage, thus creating a harmonious environment that reflects the country’s rich heritage.
The city is best known for championship-calibre Royal Golf Dar es Salam, which was designed by premier British–American golf course architect, Robert Trent Jones. Something of a prestigious retreat, the course offers a natural setting with lush fairways, serene lakes, and groves of eucalyptus and cork trees.
Beyond golf, the area provides a gateway to Rabat’s many cultural treasures. Nearby, visitors can explore the ancient Kasbah of the Udayas, the historic Hassan Tower, and the contemporary art collections at the Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, all offering a glimpse into Morocco’s layered past and vibrant present.
Nestled within 440 hectares of forest and lush gardens just steps away from the golf course, the new Ritz-Carlton Rabat, Dar Es Salam is the brand’s first property in Morocco, and offers guests attentive, first-class service, sumptuous interiors, and a stunning natural setting that combine to create a majestic sanctuary of luxury and serenity in the heart of Rabat.
Soaring ceilings showcase meticulous craftsmanship, beautifully embellished with muqarnas - an iconic Arab-Andalusian architectural element from the Almoravid era. The hotel’s richly decorated dome, with geometric and floral patterns, dominates the lobby, while the walls are adorned with Moroccan gebs frescoes, transforming plaster into masterpieces and illustrating the mastery of local artisans. The same level of detail is evident throughout the palace-like hotel, from its 100 guest rooms and 17 suites, all with private terraces facing the pool and the gardens, to the sumptuous 180 square-metre Royal Suite, and on to the lavish spa with saunas, hammams, ten massage rooms and two couple’s suites. https:// ritzcarlton.com
ILMA
CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN ABOARD A FULLY- STAFFED luxury yacht offers an unparalleled escape into timeless beauty and opulence. Imagine gliding through azure waters, calling at Greece’s sun-drenched islands, where the whitewashed charm of Santorini and the rich history of Syros await, to a backdrop of vineyards rolling down verdant hills. Sail on to Italy’s Amalfi Coast, where Positano’s pastel-hued cliffs and Sorrento’s colourful harbours invite exploration. In the Balearics, Ibiza’s legendary nightlife contrasts with the serene coves of Menorca. Meanwhile, the French Riviera, with its glamorous towns of Saint-Tropez and Cannes, embodies the very essence of Mediterranean yachting and the jet-set lifestyle associated with it. Every destination reveals a new chapter of Mediterranean allure, marked by exquisite cuisine, pristine beaches, hidden coves, and exclusive coastal retreats.
Ilma is the latest addition to The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection, following the company’s debut in the ultra-luxury yachting space with Evrima in 2022. Meaning “Water" in Maltese, Ilma pays homage to the sea, presenting guests with an exceptional experience, from spacious suites with private ocean view terraces, and world-class dining curated by Michelin-starred restaurant chefs, to a sweeping pool deck offering spectacular sea views at sea, and enchanting itineraries which drop anchor at both well-known and intimate ports of call.
With one of the highest staff-to-guest ratios in the luxury cruising sphere, 241-metre Ilma offers voyagers occupying its 224 residentialfeeling suites an unparalleled level of service, synonymous with The Ritz-Carlton brand. And in addition to luxurious accommodations, the newbuild superyacht features five restaurants, six bars, a wine vault, a sumptuous spa, an expanded marina with a new mezzanine feature, and a dynamic open-air space for entertainment and sunbathing on the top deck.
https:// ritzcarltonyachtcollection.com
RAFFLES AL AREEN PALACE BAHRAIN
A SMALL ISLAND KINGDOM NESTLED IN THE PERSIAN Gulf, Bahrain is a captivating fusion of ancient heritage and modern development. Manama, the capital, rises as a gleaming skyline of architectural marvels, from the striking Bahrain World Trade Center to the bold twin towers of the Four Seasons Hotel, soaring 200 metres above Bahrain Bay and reflecting a growing city brimming with energy. Yet, amidst the urban growth, the city preserves its soul with historical treasures like the UNESCO-listed Bahrain Fort and bustling Manama Souq, where traditional crafts and spices reflect centuries of trade. Cultural institutions such as the Bahrain National Museum provide a gateway into the island’s rich past, while the grand Al Fateh Mosque is both the Kingdom’s largest place of worship and one of the largest in the world.
A tranquil resort-like town on Bahrain’s west coast, Zallaq is beloved for its Al Areen Wildlife Park and Reserve, impressive mosque, fabulous stretch of pristine beach, the largest water park in Bahrain, and now the country’s first and only all-villa palace-like hotel.
Set within a serene desert-like oasis, Raffles Al Areen Palace Bahrain opened in 2024, bringing the brand's impeccable service standards to Bahrain via 78 secluded, elegantly designed and beautifully landscaped private villas.
Cocooned by lush gardens, every villa is incredibly spacious and features its own temperature-controlled private pool and jacuzzi, one, two, or three bedrooms, and Raffles' signature butler service. Interiors are pristine white, with plants cascading all around, Arabic accents and motifs, and pale timbers, with every detail carefully considered and every amenity provided for guests, including seven pillow options, custom scents to suit different moods and times of the day, and both indoor and open-air showers.
www. raffles.com
TREBARTHA EAST THE ROUND HOUSE
NESTLED ON SRI LANKA’S SOUTHERN COAST, AHANGAMA is something of a quiet gem between the bustling towns of Galle and Weligama. Embraced by swaying coconut palms and stretches of golden sand, where stilt fishermen still cast their lines at dawn, Ahangama’s uncrowded surf breaks draw wave enthusiasts from across Asia, while its surroundings teem with natural beauty. Just 20 kilometres away, Galle’s UNESCO-listed fort invites visitors to stroll its cobbled streets, lined with Dutch colonial architecture, art galleries, pavement cafés, and boutiques. And nearby Koggala Lake, dotted with small islands and alive with birdlife, offers tranquil boat trips.
A short drive inland leads to Trebartha East - The Round House, a one-of-a-kind retreat-like boutique hotel, perched atop a small hill surrounded by paddy fields and tea and rubber plantations, with dense rain forest visible beyond.
A landscape quite unlike anything one would expect so close to the Indian Ocean, as guests arrive at The Round House, they are either greeted by the morning song of tropical birds, or the loud wailing-like
calls of peacocks echoing across the property. Nothing short of an intimate hideaway for seasoned travellers, or a place to kick-back and enjoy the seclusion and privacy, the 360-degree panoramic vistas of the surrounding landscape make for a rather spectacular and awe-inspiring welcome. Yet, whilst the setting is truly beautiful, the architectural triumph which has been erected upon it is equally stunning, not only complementing the area’s natural splendour, but also paying homage to the five-hectare cinnamon plantation encircling it, not to mention Sri Lanka’s cultural heritage.
Having purchased the estate in 2017, husband and wife Patrick and Benny Latham set about constructing a distinctive and sustainable house, that both showcased local craftsmanship and demonstrated their shared passion for art and good design.
Designed by Sri Lankan architect Narein Perera (who is also a professor of architecture and a university lecturer), construction of the house began in 2019 using locally sourced timber, deftly incorporating key elements of the island nation's architectural vernacular in the
building’s heart and soul. Substantial delays in the build were caused by the COVID-19 pandemic and the subsequent, much-publicised island-wide economic troubles. Nevertheless, despite such massive roadblocks, the project was completed in 2023, highlighting the tremendous dedication of Perera and his team.
The result is a magnificent building that is not only beautiful to look at and genuinely enamours from all angles, but is also a joy to stay in, offering different views from every room, deck, stylish nook and quiet cranny. And whilst The Round House is a true visual delight to behold, its beauty is further elevated once the now thriving plantation has been explored on foot, having been rejuvenated with more than 40,000 new cinnamon plants courtesy of the Lathams.
The estate also features a garden path stretching for a kilometre, bordered by an array of indigenous flora, fauna, and fruit trees, which provides guests with a real immersion in the local environment. And consistent with The Round House’s ethos, the culinary team focuses on fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, offering both delicious, traditional Sri Lankan fare and international dishes, all very much farm-to-table.
Akin to residing in the unpretentious, beautifully designed home of friends with incredibly good taste and an enchanting art collection, the stay experience is no less personal than the property, with manager Kasun and his attentive team keen to please, yet not lingering too long or overservicing guests.
The Cultured Traveller literally wants for nothing during our short stay and we're sad to leave such unique lodgings that have evidently been lavished with considerable love. But with two more rooms due to be added next year, it is highly likely that The Round House and the captivating estate over which it presides, will only get even better over time in the caring custody of the Lathams, and we will surely return. www. trebartha-east.com
PRIZE DRAW
INSPIRED BY THE ICONIC WATCHES HISTORICALLY SUPPLIED TO BRITISH FORCES, VERTEX’S METICULOUSLY CRAFTED 36 RANGE WAS CREATED TO COMMEMORATE THE 80TH ANNIVERSARY OF D-DAY ON 6 JUNE 1944, AND ECHO THE SPIRIT OF RESILIENCE AND PRECISION THAT WERE VITAL ON THAT IMPORTANT DAY
FOUNDED IN 1912 BY HOROLOGICAL VISIONARY, Claude Lyons, Vertex has a long tradition of creating reliable, precision timepieces. Designed to perform under the very harshest conditions, Vertex was the only British watchmaker commissioned to supply timepieces to the military as part of Great Britain’s World War 2 war effort. With a rich history intertwined with military and adventure, and helmed today by the great-grandson of the brand’s founder, Vertex continues to embody excellence and ingenuity in its every one of its watch designs, honouring its heritage while looking forward to the future.
Vertex’s meticulously crafted 36 range was inspired by the iconic watches supplied to British forces on D-Day, commemorating its 80th anniversary on 6 June 1944. These historic timepieces echo the spirit of resilience and precision that were critical on that day. Vertex supplied 1,776 watches for the D-Day landings.
The Vertex Bronze 36 features a classic 36mm case, making it suitable for all wrist sizes, and uses top sapphire crystal, box-shaped for a distinctly vintage look while offering unbeatable scratch resistance. The watch dial guards the Vertex theme with moulded X1 Super-LumiNova numerals and finely printed indexes that ensure visibility in low-light conditions. The hands of are crafted from rhodium and treated with X1 SuperLumiNova, enhancing legibility and maintaining the watch’s classic aesthetic. Inside, the watch is powered by a SW261 movement, known for its exacting reliability.
Every Vertex Bronze 36 comes uniquely packaged in a rugged, custom-made military-grade tactical case, complete with a number of different straps.
https:// vertexwatches.com
Vertex's London store
a limited edition vertex bronze 36 watch WIN
The Five-Storied Pagoda at the Tō -ji Temple Complex
KYOTO
JAPAN
japan's cultural heartbeat
THE PINNACLE OF JAPANESE CIVILISATION, HISTORY AND CULTURE, THE FORMER CAPITAL OF THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN ALSO COMBINES BIG CITY SOPHISTICATION WITH SMALL TOWN CHARM. VISIONS OF GOLDEN LEAF-ACCENTED DARK WOOD PAGODAS, VERMILLION-COLOURED TORII GATES, AND KIMONO-CLAD WOMEN ARE NOW FOREVER SEARED INTO ALEX BENASULI 'S MEMORY
Kurama, North Kyoto
Kurama, North Kyoto
FOR MORE THAN A MILLENNIUM, UNTIL 1868, Kyoto served as the capital of Japan and the seat of its political, military and religious power. It is therefore perhaps somewhat unsurprising, that a Japan of samurais and geishas, of grand temple complexes and sublime gardens, of mountain backdrops and crystal-clear streams, and of cherry blossoms and autumn foliage, are all grandly showcased in Kyoto. Indeed, the ancient city's glorious past, immense culture, and gorgeous nature-filled spaces are to be discovered around every corner.
YET, WHILE KYOTO IS MORE POPULAR AS A TOURIST destination today than ever before, the city’s myriad of attractions ensures that there is plenty of room for everyone. Hidden spots are still be to found and numerous once-in-alifetime moments can be experienced. This is an exotic and seductive place, where your jaw will literally drop multiple times each day, and all your romantic notions of the Land of the Rising Sun will be more than satisfied.
THEY SAY THAT IN KYOTO, THERE’S A TEMPLE FOR every mood, taste, and time of the day. With over 2,000 of them spread across the city, it would take months, if not years, to explore them all. Large temple complexes with multi-tiered pagodas and immaculately landscaped gardens give way to smaller, Shinto shrines. And while many of the country’s most important buildings and antiquities are to be found in Kyoto, it is the depth of what is on offer that is truly staggering. Pace yourself. See the highlights but allow time to wander around and to go a little off-piste. Invariably you will stumble upon another marvel within minutes. For all the throngs of visitors filling the streets and temple courtyards, there are also quieter scenic routes that wind through residential neighbourhoods, replete with intimate cafés, art galleries, and authentic noodle shops, that all offer natural breaks from the sightseeing.
IF YOU ONLY HAD A FEW hours in Kyoto, the delightful Philosopher’s Walk, in the northern Higashiyama district, would be the best way to feel immersed quickly. The two-kilometre path follows a canal which is enveloped by hundreds of cherry blossom trees,
Daigoji Temple
making it one of the city's most popular walks during the spring.
From one side of the path, some of Kyoto’s most beautiful temples are accessible, overlooked by the rolling Higashiyama mountains. During autumn, the same cherry trees and mountain forests explode in shades of red, yellow and orange. In the hot and humid summer months, the canal waters, shaded by the tree canopies, offer some respite from the heat. Meanwhile, on the other side of the path and leading down the slope through upscale residential streets, cafés, casual restaurants and quirky boutiques abound. Just beyond the northern end of the walk, take a taxi or the metro and make your way to the temple of Ginkaku-ji.
KNOWN AS THE “SILVER PAVILION”, GINKAKU-JI was originally built in 1484, though it has been rebuilt and renovated many times since, following earthquakes and fires over the centuries. “Silver” refers to the moonlight shadow cast upon the dark wood exterior of its central pavilion. The foreground of the temple boasts one of Japan’s most celebrated
sand gardens, meticulously raked into Zen-like concentric circles, with a massive sand cone as its apex. This “Sea of Silver Sand with Moon Viewing Platform” (as this garden is formally called) is designed to encourage spiritual contemplation and provides an intro to Japanese garden. The much larger “moss” garden on the other side (of a massive wooden gate) is laid out as a series of winding pathways, that make their way up the foothills of the mountain slope, with ponds, streams, bridges, tea houses and temple buildings as focal points. The views over the entire garden, the temple buildings, and northern Higashiyama, are breathtaking.
JUST BEYOND THE SOUTHERN END OF THE Philosopher’s Walk, around a 40-minute walk from Ginkakuji, lies the equally impressive Nanzen-ji temple, which dates back to the mid 13th century. Nanzen-ji’s rock garden is meant to evoke tigers and cubs crossing through water. Like most temples in Kyoto, the inner buildings house priceless collections of fine arts. In the case of Nanzen-ji, these are screen doors with tigers depicted in gold leaf. A mid-19th century Meiji-era
Ginkaku-ji Temple
housed within the longest wooden structure in japan, the sight of a thousand statues of kannon, the buddhist goddess of mercy, neatly lined in rows, is truly incredible
aqueduct, plus a hidden waterfall 200 metres higher up at the rear of the complex in the Higashiyama Forest, add to the allure of Nanzen-ji.
IN BETWEEN GINKAKU-JI AND NANZEN-JI, ALONG OR just off the Philosopher’s Walk, you will chance upon a handful of other temples, including magical Hōnen-in, and peaceful Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji. One can easily spend hours or even days, soaking up the peaceful atmosphere and natural beauty of this part of Kyoto.
TO THE SOUTH OF HIGASHIYAMA AND OFTEN likened to China’s terracotta warriors, a visit to Sanjūsangendō is quite literally unmissable. Housed within the longest wooden structure in Japan, built by the famous warlord Taira no Kiyomori for Emperor Go Shirakawa in 1164, the sight of a thousand statues of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, neatly lined in rows, is truly incredible. The smaller Kannon, each with 11 heads and 42 arms, flank a much larger central 1000-armed Senjū-Kannon, which was carved by the celebrated sculptor Tankei in 1254. The word impressive barely conveys the feeling of gazing upon this army of gold leafed statues, illuminated from above. www. sanjusangendo.jp
A SHORT WALK FROM SANJŪSANGEN-DŌ IS TŌFOKUji, another jewel in Kyoto’s’ crown of larger temples. Tōfoku-ji is usually less crowded than the others. It also has one of the best gardens to experience the autumn foliage, with scores of soaring maple trees, an abundance of water features, and a variety viewing points from which to appreciate the scale and beauty of one of Japan’s most important Zen temples from different angles.
Around the corner is Funda-in, a sub-temple of Tōfoku-ji. This hidden gem has one of the oldest dry landscape gardens in Kyoto, and a series of traditional Japanese-style rooms -
Funda-in
Daigoji Temple
concealed behind shoji-style sliding doors - house breathtaking screen paintings and delicate antiques.
TWENTY MINUTES SOUTH FROM TŌFOKU-JI, IS THE busy, brash, and obviously more commercial Fushimi Inari Shrine. At first glance, its temple buildings - interspersed with street food vendors, religious merchandise stall holders - seem quite different to the more contemplative and elegant temple sites elsewhere in the city. However, make no mistake, this is perhaps the most important site in all of Kyoto and almost certainly its most Instagramed.
Fushimi Inari’s iconic status is secured by the thousands of vermillion coloured torii gates, some dating back over a millennium, that straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings and ascend Mount Inari. The visual effect of multiple ribbons of brightly hued gates, forming parallel and seemingly endless pathways upwards, is truly mesmerising. The further up you climb through the gates and bamboo forests, passing thousands of moss-covered stone foxes along the way, the more you will have this remarkable place to yourself. Wear comfortable shoes, for the climb can take anything up to two
hours. But the spectacular panoramas from the top, across Kyoto, are well worth the effort to get there! https:// inari.jp
THE RIVERSIDE SUBURB OF ARASHIYAMA IS another part of Kyoto which displays the city’s seductive charms. Easily accessed by metro, bus or taxi, Arashiyama is easily worthy of a half-day, if not a whole. This leafy, western district - nestled along the Katsura River under the watchful eye of the Arashiyama mountains - makes for extremely pleasant walking, moderate hiking and cycling, particularly during mid-March and mid-December during Hanatōuro, when thousands of lights and flowers softly-illuminate streets filled with shrines and temples. The soaring bamboo forest behind the temple of Tenryū-ji and the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge are two of the best places to experience Hanatoro and Arashiyama in general.
THE LARGEST AND MOST IMPRESSIVE TEMPLE IN Arashiyama is Tenryū-ji, which dates back to 1339 and is one of Kyoto’s five great Zen temples. Its walking and garden paths are as striking as its main buildings. Nearby, Ōkōchi Sansō
Fushimi Inari Shrine
The Bamboo Forest in Arashiyama
Yasaka Shrine, Gion
Gion
whilst you will see kimono-attired women in the streets, temples, and hotel lobbies in kyoto, in gion they are even more prevalent
the ancient city's glorious past, immense culture, and gorgeous nature-filled spaces are to be discovered around every corner
is a must for garden lovers. This former villa of one of Japan’s most famous actors from the last century, has multiple tea houses, traditional wooden buildings dotted around immaculate gardens, and views over Arashiyama.
AS IS THE CASE IN HIGASHIYAMA, WHILE THE traditional tourist highlights are exemplary, you are encouraged to wander and explore. There are temples and shrines almost everywhere and the nature around Kyoto is breathtaking. If you are looking for mountain paths, rolling rivers, babbling brooks, and bridges straight out of a classic wood block print, you will find them all in Arashiyama, which also makes an excellent starting point for adventures in the mountains nearby.
FOR THE LITTLE LESS ACTIVE, THE 25 -MINUTE Sagano Scenic Railway, which connects Arashiyama to rural Kameoka through mountainsides, forested ravines and along the Hozugawa river, is an excellent way to see the incredible scenery. And the period carriages with their wooden benches - a faithful reproduction of the original late 19th century trainonly adds to the charming experience.
www. sagano-kanko.co.jp/en
THERE WILL COME A POINT IN YOUR VISIT TO KYOTO where you will likely become temple saturated. Walking around for hours at a time stimulates an appetite and the need to unwind. Gion, historically Kyoto’s entertainment district, adjacent to Higashiyama, is still the area with the highest density of bars and restaurants, as well as traditional Geisha hostess lounges. Whilst you will see kimono-attired women in the streets, temples, and hotel lobbies in Kyoto, in Gion they are even more prevalent. ➤
Katsura River, Arashiyama
Togetsukyo Bridge
Sagano Scenic Railway
THE HANAMI-KOJI AREA OF GION (ON THE SOUTH side of Shijo-dori) has the best-preserved streets, with the highest concentration of traditional, wooden machiya merchant houses. The side streets also provide multiple characterful dining and drinking options.
Gion Manzara is a popular but intimate restaurant, set within a traditional house, that serves Kyoto-style home cooking on brightly coloured Japanese ceramic dishes, appealing to both tourists and locals alike www.manzara.co.jp/gion/
A short walk away, the area between Yasaka Shrine leading up to Kiyomizudera Temple offers another cluster of well-preserved streets, with numerous choices for more casual dining, as well as some decent souvenir shopping.
COLLECTORS OF FINE ART, OR THOSE LOOKING FOR special treasures, should head to Shinmonzen-Dori in Gion, which is lined with reputable antique and art dealers, some of whom have been trading for more than a century. To stay in the heart of Gion, The Shinmonzen is a stylish boutique hotel of
just nine suites, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Tadao Ando, housed within a new wooden machiya house that took a decade to create. Inside, the hotel's extensive art collection, which includes works by Damien Hirst and Louise Bourgeois, lends the place the feel of a gallery.
https:// theshinmonzen.com
Meanwhile, to the east of the city and offering a more serene stay experience, nestled on a hilltop close to the UNESCO-listed Kiyomizu-dera temple complex, Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto blends traditional Japanese architecture with modern sophistication. Designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma, this intimate 52-room retreat is enveloped by a tranquil bamboo forest and the picturesque Higashiyama Mountains. After a busy day of sightseeing, relax in a natural onsen or rejuvenate in the sumptuous spa, before feasting on curated kaiseki menus at kappo-style Ryozen restaurant, made using seasonal Kyoto ingredients. The hotel is also home to the city's only Noh stageinspired Bamboo Pavilion, which celebrates Japan’s traditional performing arts. www. banyantree.com/japan/kyoto
Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto
The Shinmonzen The Shinmonzen
OVER IN ARASHIYAMA, MICHELIN- STARRED KYOTO
Kitcho Arashiyama is one of the best places (if not most expensive), to indulge in multi-course, exquisitely presented Japanese haute kaiseki cuisine. https:// kyoto-kitcho.com/en.
Nearby, Café Hassui sits on Hozugawa River and serves warm drinks, light bites and evening cocktails, in a sophisticated yet welcoming setting, with both indoor and outdoor seating, the latter enjoying charming water views. www. suirankyoto.com/hassui
WHETHER YOU HAVE A FEW HOURS OR A FEW WEEKS, spending time in Kyoto is like being in an imperial dream that one doesn't want to end. With Japan’s glorious and hugely storied past on display around every corner, visitors leave Kyoto more entranced than ever by its intriguing motherland spirit, where art, architecture, nature, tradition and attention to detail effortlessly come together, creating a unique and deeply satisfying cultural experience. https:// kyoto.travel/en
Kyoto Tower
Kyoto Kitcho Arashiyama
whether you have a few hours or a few weeks, spending time in kyoto is like being in an imperial dream that one doesn't want to end
RIVERSIDE POOL VILLA
➤ THE SIAM, BANGKOK, THAILAND
suite envy intense calm amidst the hectic thai capital
SET ALONG THE BANKS OF THE MIGHTY CHAO PHRAYA, STANDING AS AN OASIS OF ENCHANTING DESIGN, TIMELESS ELEGANCE, AND THAI HERITAGE, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS-INTO A SERENE RIVERSIDE VILLA AT THE SIAM
ENCOMPASSING A NUMBER OF THE
World's 50 Best, Bangkok’s upscale hotel scene is a vibrant blend of Thai tradition and contemporary opulence, offering an extraordinary variety of experiences for discerning travellers. With sky-high metropolitan vistas, impeccable Thai hospitality, and a varying range of ancient and modern design, the city’s elite hotels somewhat redefine urban living. Grand lobbies adorned with statement artworks and suites that overlook Bangkok’s twinkling skyline reflect a standard of sophistication that appeals to both locals and international guests alike. Yet within the array of five-star properties, one particular luxury hotel stands out for its uniquely intimate, heritage-infused experience.
NOTHING SHORT OF A RIVERSIDE HAVEN, SET along the banks of the Chao Phraya, The Siam hotel stands as an oasis of timeless elegance and heritage, melding the rich cultural history of Thailand with the sophistication of a world-class retreat. Conceived by the Sukosol family - one of Thailand’s most prominent families in the realms of music, art, and hospitalitythe hotel is both a personal passion project and a tribute to Bangkok’s artistic soul. Kamala Sukosol, the family matriarch, is not only a celebrated jazz singer but also a revered figure in the Thai hospitality industry. Her vision, coupled with the creative drive of her youngest son, Krissada Sukosol Clapp, has crafted The Siam into an extraordinary destination where art, architecture, and personal history coalesce.
THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE SIAM, BOTH bold and tranquil, reflects the old-world grandeur of Bangkok’s heritage while embracing a sense of contemporary minimalism. Designed in collaboration with acclaimed architect and designer Bill Bensley, the hotel stands as a series of interconnected, low-rise buildings adorned with dark woods, high ceilings, and lush greenery. Bensley’s design skillfully captures the romantic essence of the early 20th century, paying homage to the Art Deco period, while subtly intertwining Siamese aesthetics, all the while set against the rhythm of the river. As I approach the property from the water, on the hotel's elegant launch, The Siam appears like a hidden estate from a bygone era, offering an enticing glimpse into Bangkok’s rich cultural tapestry and, as I soon discover, the Sukosol family’s artistic legacy.
STEPPING INSIDE, IT IS EVIDENT FROM THE get-go, that Bensley’s attention to detail has extended way beyond the architecture into every corner of the hotel’s interiors. The eclectic décor is a lovingly curated blend of antiques, artworks, and furnishings from the Sukosol family’s private collection. Each space within The Siam reveals its own story, punctuated by antiques, sculptures, vintage posters, and tasteful pieces. Timeless furniture adorns the common areas, reflecting both a reverence for history and an intimate glimpse into the family’s world. The public spaces exude a restrained elegance, with marble floors, polished wood, and touches of Thai silk, with custommade furnishings creating an atmosphere that feels both nostalgic and entirely unique. ➤
YET IT IS KRISSADA SUKOSOL CLAPP, AN accomplished musician and actor, who brings a distinctly personal touch to The Siam. His passion for both the arts and his family’s heritage infuses the property with a rare warmth. Clapp's involvement is not simply that of an owner, but rather a curator, and I understand that he personally selected many of the artworks and mementoes that adorn the walls. Indeed, his artistic vision veritably shapes the very character of The Siam, lending a sense of authenticity and intimacy that is palpable throughout. And it is this dedication to storytelling, combined with the Sukosols’ obvious love for creativity, that sets The Siam apart from every other Bangkok hotel, and gives it the distinct aura of a private sanctuary, rather than a commercial operation.
WITHIN MINUTES OF STEPPING ONTO DRY land, I feel a million miles away from the bustling city yet still rooted in its culture, while at the same time entering a world of highly personalised hospitality. The hotel’s atmosphere is tranquil, almost meditative, with an undeniable air of exclusivity and privacy. I am gently ushered into a slower rhythm, where I am able to savour each moment, and observe every detail. Meanwhile the warm staff, attentive yet unobtrusive, create an environment that feels as effortless as it is luxurious.
AS I WANDER AROUND THE PROPERTY, WHICH feels much like the sprawling mansion of a wealthy, well-travelled philanthropist with impeccable taste, I chance upon lush gardens, established trees, and a ➤
serene swimming pool, to a backdrop of lightly trickling fountains. By now, my mood is soothed and the city is a distant memory. Inside, a massive, long reflecting pool in a soaring central light-flooded atrium, is bedecked with towering birds of paradise plants. I can't resist pausing to take a photo.
THE 38 ROOMS AND SUITES AT THE SIAM continue this theme of refined, intimate luxury. Spacious and airy, each feels more like a private residence than a hotel suite, designed to evoke a sense of calm and wellbeing. The décor mirrors the public spaces, with a blend of antiques and contemporary comforts. Marble bathrooms, fourposter beds, and private balconies or gardens offer guests a secluded retreat from the outside world.
And subtle Thai touches are mild reminders of the destination’s cultural richness.
MY ACCOMMODATION FOR THE COMING DAYS is a 130 square metre Riverside Pool Villa. The hotel's highest accommodation category, there are just three, all located mere metres from the Chao Phraya. Walking through the tall, understated doors that mark the entrance feels like stepping into a secret sanctuary crafted with a discriminating sense of peace and character. Dappled light filters through tropical foliage, casting shadows over a covered terrace dominated by an oversized daybed large enough for two or more. A spiral staircase leads up to a private terrace facing the river, set with two luxe loungers for secluded sunbathing. I spend every morning here, sipping my
coffee whilst watching the passing boats. Amidst such a hectic city, it is a supremely civilised way to start the day.
Downstairs, a private open-air plunge pool offers cooling respite from the extreme heat of a Thai summer. Beyond, the main inside accommodation begins with a theatrically elevated, super king-sized bed, set beneath a vaulted ceiling. The dramatic monochromatic colour scheme which dominates throughout the interiors, is sprinkled with colourful amenities, soft furnishings, and a Deco-inspired sofa upholstered in exquisite, handwoven Jim Thompson fabrics. .
The next space is a combination of a walk-inwardrobe and dressing room, punctuated by a vintage, boudoir-style dressing table and matching chair.
The pièce de résistance is a gigantic bathroom fit for royalty, hung with massive lanterns, the centrepiece of which is a monolithic stone tub, which, despite not being a bath person, I make time to have a soak in.
STRIKING AN INTENSELY INVITING, ALMOST reverent tone, and gracefully blending Thai elegance with contemporary ease, rich in texture yet deliberately unembellished, every detail of the villa has obviously been very carefully chosen to offer a sense of repose. Together with subtle nods to Siamese heritage, they achieve a hospitality harmony that is effortless and exacting, making staying in a Riverside Pool Villa at The Siam a remarkable experience that lingers long after I depart.
A night in a Riverside Pool Villa at The Siam costs THB 60,000 including breakfast. www.thesiamhotel.
HEIDI HORTEN COLLECTION
VIENNA, AUSTRIA
the extraordinary of austria's wealthiest
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER EXPLORES THE ARTISTIC LEGACY OF HEIDI HORTEN, WHO AMASSED A NEAR BILLION-DOLLAR ART COLLECTION DURING HER LIFETIME, WHICH IS NOW ON PERMANENT DISPLAY IN A MAGNIFICENT NEW MUSEUM IN THE HEART OF VIENNA
WHEN SHE DIED in June 2022 aged 81, literally days after the unveiling of her eponymous new museum, Austria’s wealthiest woman left behind an extraordinary legacy, deftly blending elegance and resilience with a profound love for art. Married three times, with a fortune valued in the billions, Heidi Horten spent her later years ardently devoted to collecting art, an endeavour that markedly flourished during the 1990s, a period when she reinvented herself following her first marriage. ➤
artistic legacy wealthiest woman
Left: Hypnosis by Erwin Wurm (2008). Below: Gran Elefandret by Miquel Barceló (2007)
Her journey, marked by both immense wealth and a genuine appreciation for creativity, culminated in one of Europe’s most remarkable private art collections. More than a simple pursuit of luxury, her passion for collecting became a meaningful way to genuinely support artists and celebrate their work.
MRS HORTEN’S FIRST MARRIAGE WAS to German businessman Helmut Horten, a retail magnate who amassed considerable wealth in post-war Europe. Though their union was cut short by his death in 1987, it provided her with the financial foundation that would eventually set the stage for her ventures into the art world. Yet it was not until her second marriage that she developed an intense enthusiasm for collecting, opening a new and enduring connection to the art world that transformed her later years.
HEIDI HORTEN’S SECOND MARRIAGE rekindled her zest for life, sparking a chapter filled with creativity and inspiration. It was during this time that she met Agnes Husslein in London. A high flying Sotheby’s art expert and Director of Development
for the European Guggenheim Museum, with a discerning eye and a natural instinct for recognising artistic potential, Husslein became not only a trusted advisor but also a personal guide, ushering Mrs Horten into the vibrant worlds of modern and contemporary art. Courtesy of Husslein, Mrs Horten was introduced to celebrated contemporary artists, and coached in the subtleties of collecting with a clear sense of purpose and perspective.
UNDER HUSSLEIN’S GUIDANCE, MRS
Horten’s collection grew from classical works into a dynamic, thoughtfully curated assembly of 20th-century masterpieces, including pieces by Pablo Picasso, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Francis Bacon. The collection became a reflection of her expanding tastes, blending established icons with rising stars. Husslein was instrumental in fostering this evolution, forging connections with influential gallerists and
Ansicht Atrium
Agnes Husslein
introducing Mrs Horten to creators who challenged conventions and expanded her vision. Her mentorship enabled Mrs Horten to transform from an art enthusiast into a discerning collector with a deep sense of responsibility and pride for the works she gathered.
admired not only for its value, but also for its thoughtfulness and historical scope.
THE BOND BETWEEN
MRS HORTEN
AS THE COLLECTION DEVELOPED, Husslein’s role became even more integral. She was not merely suggesting acquisitions; she played a pivotal role in shaping an artistic legacy for Mrs Horten. Each new addition brought coherence and purpose to the collection. Rather than being a simple gathering of prestigious names, it grew into a carefully curated narrative of modern and post-modern artistry, tracing revolutions, and showcasing varied voices from the 20th and 21st centuries. The collection soon earned recognition as one of Europe’s finest,
and Husslein was one of mutual respect and a shared enjoyment of art. Through Husslein’s influence, Mrs Horten began to view her collection as more than an assortment of renowned artists, but rather as a cultural being with the power to educate and inspire. Husslein’s understanding of the art world granted Mrs Horten access to an elite network of artists and dealers, allowing her collection to achieve its true potential. Together, they curated a legacy that reflected Mrs Horten’s personal journey and her commitment to the arts. ➤
Heidi Horten in the 1970s, Düsseldorf, Germany
Heidi Horten in 2019 with her dog, Bauxi, in front of Study for a Portrait of John Edwards by Francis Bacon (1985)
CULTURE HEIDI HORTEN COLLECTION
TOWARDS THE END OF HER LIFE, MRS Horten grew increasingly determined to share her collection with the world. While her wealth had allowed her to amass a cultural treasure, it was her vision, fostered by her relationship with Husslein, that led her to take the next step. The idea of a museum took root - a place to house her life's artistic work and make it accessible to the public, at the same time positioning Vienna at the heart of the modern art scene.
SERVING AS A TESTAMENT TO MRS
Horten’s enduring belief in creativity’s transformative power, and under the close supervision of Husslein, a site in the heart of the city was secured for the creation of a new museum to house the collection.
Located a stone’s throw from the Vienna State Opera, the historic rear wing of the city’s former 1914 archducal office building,
invisible from the street, underwent a remarkable rebirth, in an incredibly short timeframe of some two years from startto-finish, to transform it into a museum of international standing and appeal.
Led by a team of innovative architects and driven by Husslein, the transformation saw, within the hemmed-in site, the construction of cutting-edge galleries spanning multiple floors, which cleverly weave the surroundings into the building. This begins with an arrival dialogue between the museum and visitors, via a courtyard planted with trees and punctuated with sculptural works, which makes the site feel like a secret island of art, ripe for discovery. A bench running the length of the sculpture garden both frames it and gestures visitors to enter the building, which is unique for any Viennese museum and sets a welcoming tone for what’s to come inside.
SINCE MRS HORTEN WAS ESSENTIALLY living with the priceless works she amassed during her lifetime, the museum was similarly designed to share the same highly personal engagement with art, enhanced by the selection of materials and textures used, that also convey a sense of intimacy, together with a warming interplay of daylight and artificial lighting, which is also unique for Vienna.
IN A CITY WHERE MOST OF THE museums are somewhat stuffy and impersonal, the Heidi Horten Collection is contrarily intensely inviting, and encourages visitors to move through its airy and uncluttered spaces with a sense of fluidity. Throughout the three pristine floors linked by staircases that appear to float, the art is noticeably allowed to breathe. Thus, visitors enjoy an enhanced viewing experience, and are offered moments of quiet introspection amidst the visual splendour. Indeed, the overall ethereal quality of the museum's interiors make the Heidi Horten Collection a captivating and unmissable addition to Vienna’s cultural landscape.
RENOWNED FOR HER LOVE OF COLOUR and contrasts between the old and the new, Heidi Horten’s incredible artistic legacy is now enshrined within the walls of a truly magnificent museum, which expertly showcases her lifelong passion for art.
And her dedication to collecting and preserving masterpieces will now live on ad infinitum, offering future generations the chance to appreciate Heidi Horten’s vision and the creative beauty that she saw in the world. https:// hortencollection.com
Agnes Husslein and Heidi Horten in 2018, at Vienna's Leopold Museum. Behind, Buste d’Homme by Pablo Picasso (1969)
EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK
➤ SAGARMATHA NATIONAL PARK, NEPAL
the trek of a lifetime
FIRST-TIME TREKKER NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EMBARKS UPON AN EPIC ADVENTURE TO THE FOOT OF THE WORLD'S HIGHEST PEAK, WEAVING THROUGH BREATHTAKING NEPALESE LANDSCAPES, ANCIENT MONASTERIES, WINDING RIVERS, AND SHERPA CULTURE PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROL SACHS
Everest Base Camp of Thamserku Expedition
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
THE WORDS "I'M TREKKING TO Everest Base Camp" are not some I ever envisaged uttering in my lifetime. Indeed, when it was first muted that I join the expedition, I instinctively said "no". Granted, I'm partial to a not-hugely-challenging hike at least once-a-year, often on my birthday, to prove (to myself) that I'm not that old, yet. And last year, I even pushed myself to hike the India Venster trail up Table Mountain in Cape Town, which is classified as the mountain's most dangerous, necessitates scrambling, and is a one-way route. When all of my South African friends refused to accompany me, my guide was an inspiring 60-something lady from the Greek island of Milos, who got me to the top in around three-hours, before the skies dramatically parted and we had to get down by cable car down ASAP, for fear of being stranded. When I then caroused 'til the early hours that night (to celebrate turning another year older), and woke the next day without any post-climb aches and pains, even I was impressed. But not for a second did I imagine, that the following year, I would be flying to Nepal to embark upon an epic trek to the world's most famous base camp, more than five kilometres above sea level.
DAY TWO: KATHMANDU VIA LUKLA TO PHAKDING
Having spent the previous day and night in the Nepalese capital, shopping for climbing gear, meeting the group, being briefed, and preparing for an inordinately early start, the scale of the expedition doesn't really hit me until our small plane is coming in to land at Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, which is perched on the edge of a cliff and nestled between two mountains, leaving no room for pilot error. As we board the twin turboprop in Kathmandu, a friend directs me to sit up front and center, to get the best view. "Best view of what?" I reply. "You'll see" he says, with a wicked smile.
APPROACHING LUKLA, THE AIRCRAFT NOISE alone is enough to unsettle even the most seasoned traveller. Add to this a seriously steep descent and the world's shortest landing strip (barely 500 metres long) and I don't think I need say much more. Thankfully, I haven't Googled the airport before the flight, for it is reputedly the most dangerous on the planet.
Touching down, a shiver of excitement ripples through me, mingling with an undercurrent of unease. All around, I’m struck by both the beauty and the intensity of this place. The air is cool and noticeably more-thin, hinting at the altitude that
may well present a challenge. But I'm excited more than anything else, and somewhat thrilled to tread some of the same rugged paths that mountaineers have walked for decades, on their way up to the roof of the world. Saying that, even as exhilaration courses through me, I can’t ignore a subtle tension tightening my shoulders. The ascent to Everest Base Camp (EBC) is a journey into the unknown for me, both physically and mentally. I’ve never ventured so high before, and the whispers of altitude sickness and exhaustion echo in my mind, gnawing at my confidence.
WHAT I DO KNOW IS THAT THE NEXT TEN days or so promise breathtaking landscapes, winding trails, and soaring heights. Yet they will also demand resilience and endurance I’m not sure I possess, not to mention a modicum of patience, since I will be trekking with some people I have known for five seconds. The latter presents a set of different challenges for which I am woefully unprepared, having shied away from group activities for decades. But I am told that the expedition is so well staffed by sherpas and support crew, that should I wish to separate and do my own thing at any point, I am welcome to do so, and will be equally well taken care of. In time, this transpires to be the reason why my EBC trekking experience is so personal and memorable.
PERCHED ON THE EDGE OF THE HIMALAYAS and the gateway to the entire Everest/Khumbu region of Nepal, Lukla is no ordinary mountain town. Sitting at 2,860 metres and originally a Sherpa village, Lukla rose to prominence when its famous airport opened in 1964, opening up the valley to even more trekkers and climbers. Its evolution from a quiet settlement to a bustling hub reflects Nepal’s intertwining history of adventure and resilience.
After such a thrilling landing, my first stroll along Lukla’s narrow pedestrianised main thoroughfare is an experience that lingers. Small, scruffy shops jostle with cafés and tatty pubs. Fringing the pavement, low-quality trekking gear is stacked alongside toilet rolls and tubes of toothpaste, while Tibetan prayer flags flutter in the wind above. I can almost feel the tales of the Everest climbers who have walked the same paving stones as I am walking now, and the town is palpably alive with whispers of past expeditions and the quiet anticipation of more yet to come.
WE PAUSE TO RE-GROUP AT MLN LUKLA Lodge which lies at the very end of the town. A well-known establishment to trekkers, for it has ➤
MLN Lukla Lodge
MLN Monjo Lodge
MLN Phakding Lodge
been the first or last stop for thousands, a hearty breakfast awaits, together with time to re-pack our all important backpacks in readiness for our first trek that morning. Looking at everyone else's more serious backpacks than mine, and a general proliferation of equipment and all-weather wear, I wonder whether I’ve prepared enough, or if it’s even possible to prepare enough for such a journey. I'm repeatedly warned that weather conditions are unpredictable in such a high-altitude region and can change very quickly. Gazing at the majestic panorama in-front of me, I feel caught between anticipation and doubt, already awed by the mountains, but equally aware of the daunting challenge they present and what lies ahead.
LEAVING LUKLA BEHIND, THE TRAIL towards Phakding unfurls through landscapes that often feel almost mythical. Because the first trek is largely downhill, I'm able to appreciate the deep green forests lining the path, punctuated by small bursts of vividly colourful springtime flowers, including rhododendrons and miniature irises. Terraced fields cling to steep slopes. I spot villagers tending to their crops. I feel alive and energised. Soon we arrive at the small settlement of Chheplung, its giant prayer wheels reflecting its deep Buddhist heritage. I spin them clockwise as I pass. A Nepalese prayer wheel is a cylindrical drum, often made of metal or wood and mounted on a spindle, containing scrolls of paper inscribed with Buddhist mantras, most commonly Om Mani Padme Hum. Every rotation is said to send prayers and blessings into the world, multiply the mantra’s power, and spread goodwill and peace. So I spin every wheel I come across.
I HEAR IT BEFORE I SEE IT, BUT MY FIRST glimpse of the Dudh Koshi River stops me in my tracks. True to its name, the “Milk River's” foaming waters cascade over smooth boulders, their icy blue-green hues shimmering in the sunlight. The sound of its rushing current is both invigorating and soothing and remains my welcome, constant companion for the next few hours, together with the appearance of suspension bridges, which gradually increase in length and height over the days that follow, providing increasingly thrilling crossings. As nature's raw beauty slowly becomes more spectacular and somewhat ethereal, the higher we go, both humbling and profoundly uplifting me, the bridges provide a tangible link to the real world.
ALONG THE WAY, A MONUMENT TO devotion and artistry, intricately carved with Tibetan script, the surface of Thado Koshi's enormous
Mani stone bears centuries-old mantras, invoking blessings for all who pass. Sherpa porters and trekkers alike all pause momentarily. And these sacred relics of Himalayan Buddhism are comforting sentinels on my journey.
OUR FIRST NIGHT'S STOP FROM LUKLA, deftly blending into the natural surroundings and perched just above the Dudh Koshi's tumbling waters, MLN Phakding Lodge offers a haven of tranquillity amidst the verdant Himalayan landscape, together with a wealth of creature comforts. My homely room, lined in natural timber, overlooks the ever-present river below and the team has kindly set-up a desk and chair for me to write. This is sherpa hospitality at its most kind and thoughtful. I rest, take a hot shower, and sit down with the group to an impromptu wine dinner, during which celebrated Argentinian winemaker, Jose Zuccardi, speaks about some of his vintages being served. Mindful of the longer and more demanding trek that lies ahead the next day, it's not easy to tear myself away from the good conversation and fine wines, but sadly I must. I sleep like a baby under a heated blanket.
DAY THREE: PHAKDING TO MONJO
While the group is up and out the door at 8am, I stay behind to work until noon, have some homemade soup for lunch, and set off with a sherpa guide, Lahkpa, who accompanied me on our first day of trekking, when we moved ahead of the main group. Over the coming week, I trust Lahkpa with my life. It's amazing how quickly bonds are forged and friends are made when one's away from the complications of day-to-day life.
THE TREK FROM PHAKDING BEGINS WITH A steady, almost tranquil walk along the Dudh Koshi, its relentless rush offering a soothing rhythm. On the opposite bank begins the scattered hamlet of Sano Gumela. We cross the river and gently ascend through grassy forests of blue pine and silver fir. The scent of the trees, fresh and resinous, fills the air, and the stillness is broken only by the occasional bird call. It's a delightful setting and as we ascend higher, I’m rewarded with vistas that instantly necessitate a photo stop - the mountains looming large, their jagged peaks piercing the sky, overwhelming me with their splendour.
TURNING OFF THE WELL-TRODDEN EVEREST trail, we make our way towards the village of Thulo Gumela, where the ensuing climb is gradual but steady, surrounded by the silent, dense pines that seem to be holding their breath. The final ➤
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
hundred metres or so, up to Rimishung Monastery, are the toughest yet and a little taste of things to come, I guess.
A cornerstone of spiritual life in the region and a sacred site, locally known as Pema Choling Gumba, when we arrive at the monastery, perched high above the valley, a dozen or so children are playing out front and a day-long celebration of Buddha Jayanti is unfolding within what I imagine would otherwise be a place of total serenity. But not today. Instead, we are treated to dancing by locals in traditional dress, performing to a hall full of villagers and their families. A panel of elders, seated at a long table, look on. Meanwhile the main interior shrine, brightly painted with images of numerous deities, is silent and radiates spiritual energy, inviting a personal moment of quiet reflection. Combined with its awe-inspiring surroundings, visiting Rimishung, with its rich heritage dating back more than 500 years, and deep connection to the teachings of Tibetan Buddhism, is an intense and reflective moment for me.
DESCENDING FROM RIMISHUNG, WE
follow a lesser-known trail that weaves through Gumela, continuing towards Zam Fute. Here, monumental mani walls stand as testaments to time, their stone carvings intricate and ancient, each one telling stories of devotion and history. Before long, we rejoin the classic Everest trail, encountering other trekkers also heading to Monjo. Along the way, we pass through a village called Benkar at 2,800 metres, which is predominantly inhabited by the Sherpa community, including my trusty guide Lahkpa's family. I'm invited into his home and his wife makes tea and introduces me to their baby son. It's a wonderfully natural moment that connects me to my guide and now his family. Photos around the house include Lahkpa at the summit of various
mountains, reinforcing the Sherpas' deep connection to the Himalayas. I pause for a rest before we move on through the village, the fertile land surrounding it allowing its residents to grow much of their food, including potatoes, barley, wheat, and vegetables on terraced fields carved into the hillsides.
We push on towards Monjo, the day’s journey leaving me a little physically weary but spiritually nourished, each step adding to the insightful beauty of my Himalayan adventure thus far. My legs are noticeably heavier as the trail ascends, but the thought of reaching Monjo keeps me moving forward.
Located at the end of the village at 2,850 metres, we arrive at pretty MLN Monjo Lodge at around 5pm. It feels like home at once. My cosy room at the front enjoys breathtaking mountain vistas, and I watch a herd of horses slowly amble along the path opposite, just beyond a garden and large greenhouse where the lodge's chef grows many of the ingredients used in his delicious food.
After a nourishing dinner, a monk from the local monastery brings a router to my room so I am connected and able to get some work done. Such is his genuine warmth and kindness, that he waits in the lounge downstairs until he is sure that I have what I need.
DAY FIVE: MONJO TO NAMCHE BAZAAR
We are up early the next morning for what we unanimously expect to be the toughest trek of the expedition towards Namche. Starting off easy with a gentle walk down into the valley, soon after leaving Monjo, we reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park at Jorshale, where the group's excitement grows. Thereafter, the path is punctuated by many suspension bridges crossing the growing river, filled with countless steps, and we encounter ➤
En route from Thame to Namche helipad
noticeably more people, most of which are sherpas carrying goods.
CONSTANTLY MOVING UPWARDS, THE scenery becomes more spectacular the higher I go, until reaching the confluence of two rivers –one from Thame and the other from Khumbu - where an incredibly high suspension bridge is the first time I cross with haste, passing other people mid-way, which makes me nervous. Thereafter is the hardest trek to date, ascending steeply through dense forest. We stop every so often so I can refuel with a protein bar before continuing upwards. But it's tough.
About halfway up, in a clearing where fellow trekkers have paused for sustenance and a toilet break, I get the the first glimpse of Mount Everest in all her glory. It's an incredible sight and energises me onwards, as we head upwards, my legs beginning to burn.
As we continue the steady climb towards Namche Bazaar, the entirely upward trek necessitates frequent pauses for a slug or water or simply to breathe normally.
WHEN WE FINALLY REACH THE ENTRANCE to Namche, it’s not over. The last stretch, winding up through the village and around the top, on the upper slopes of Namche, proves to be the most challenging. In the interim, we have a coffee break in town. I'm exhausted and my legs are bloody sore, but the town's ancient energy is palpable and there is an undeniable romance in the air.
Having ascended some 600 metres, the sense of accomplishment when we reach MLN Namche Lodge at 3,440 metres, makes the day's exertions worthwhile. But my body is not reacting well to the medication I'm taking to prevent symptoms of altitude sickness, Diamox (acetazolamide), and I am completely floored.
I understand that Diamox doesn't agree with everyone and unfortunately I'm completely knockedout for the next few days. Weak, lightheaded and dizzy, with zero appetite, I stay in my room, try to get a bit of work done, but mostly just rest, sleep, observe the clouds drifting past my window, intermittently obscuring the view of the Lego-like town below, and wait it out.
The following day, I miss out on the hike to Khumjung village, the home of the Sir Edmund Hillary School, that was built in 1961. I don't leave my room at all, and am kindly looked after by the wonderful team at MLN Namche Lodge, who ensure I have enough hot water and some food staples. The electrolytes I brought to Nepal with me come in very handy at this point!
DAY SEVEN: NAMCHE BAZAAR
I manage a little breakfast in my room and am then persuaded to take a gentle walk, up a hill behind the lodge to Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre. Having stopped taking Diamox a few days earlier, the air feels thinner and breathing is not as easy as it was, but I take it slowly to the top, encouraged by a friend, and am rewarded with an incredible panorama, surrounded by an array of mountains including Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Thamserku, most of which are obscured by cloud cover, but the air is fresh, the skies are bright blue, and it feels good to be with Mother Nature again.
As I am standing in-front of a life-size bronze of Tenzing Norgay, the clouds part revealing Everest behind the statue. In the same shot, I snap the world's highest mountain and a statue of a man who forever changed mountaineering history. It's a magic moment that comes at the perfect time. From then on, I focus on being fit enough to trek some 15 or 16 kilometres the following day to Thame, which is the longest leg thus far.
THAT AFTERNOON, LAHKPA ACCOMPANIES me on a walk around bustling Namche Bazaar. With its origins dating back to the 16th century, the town has long served as the gateway to the Himalayas and been a place where trade routes converge and cultures meet. Once a simple sherpa trading post, its evolution into a bustling market town is both fascinating and humbling, with its special charm lying in its unique blend of tradition and modernity, with bars and trekking shops sitting side-by-side with local butchers and grocers. High up on the opposite side of the town, we head to Namche's monastery, which is hung with colourful Thanka paintings of Tibetan deities. I have a decent meal that night and by the time we leave the next morning, at least I've acclimatised to the altitude and am off the medication.
DAY EIGHT: NAMCHE BAZAAR TO THAME
I breakfast with Lahkpa at MLN Namche Lodge before bidding goodbye to my home for the past three nights and heading off, slightly nervous, but also happy to be back in the open air.
MOST TREKKERS AND TOURISTS IN NAMCHE take the northeast trail out of town, towards Everest. Instead, we head northwest towards Thame, along a path obviously less trodden. It's just me and Lahkpa and nature in all her glory. Trekking in such ➤
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
dramatic settings becomes addictive and I realise that I've missed it. I sing along to music playing in my ears as we meander through a dense forest and a number of small villages, each preceded by a small Buddhist shrine, known as a chorten. Often shaped like a dome or spire, they symbolise peace and spirituality and are typically painted white and adorned with colourful prayer flags, representing the Buddha’s mind and teachings.
AFTER A FEW HOURS, THE WEATHER
changes suddenly, the sky turns grey and it begins to drizzle. Lahkpa puts me in a particularly unflattering poncho and we continue. A bridge ahead of us is completely engulfed in mist at the other end and appears to lead into the abyss. Crossing it is somewhat un-nerving. As soon as the clouds clear the poncho is discarded and we stop for a delicious lunch of local food.
Refueled and making our way through a beautiful valley, I am entirely in my element, alone but for Lahkpa, enjoying the stunning scenery. It's a bit of a long grind, and towards the end we are drenched by a downpour and arrive at MLN Thame lodge at 3,800 metres, soaked and exhausted. But there's a warm welcome waiting, I re-join the group, and that evening we are entertained by a group of local dancing mothers who utterly delight us all.
DAY NINE: THAME TO KONGDE
Regarded as a holy mountain by settlers in the Khumbu region, I awake to spectacular views of Kongde Ri, set against clear blue skies. Clouds preclude a planned helicopter pick-up from Thame to our next lodge, so we must trek back in the same direction as my previous day, which is a bit of a pain in the ass. But the route is altered slightly, the weather is glorious, and as we come down through the valley, we are all in awe of the incredible sights that greet us, with Everest in the distance.
On the outskirts of Namche, a helicopter whisks us up to MNL Kongde Lodge at 4,250 metres, which is the highest hotel in the region. Also the highest altitude I've ever experienced, thankfully I'm unaffected and blessed with an incredible panorama from my room, which includes Everest at eye level and Namche in the foreground. It's a mesmerising sight and it's mine for the next two days and nights. That evening, tales are exchanged around the wood-burner in the lodge's cosy lounge, and I show the bartender how to make a proper G&T!
DAY TEN: FARAK RI
After a good breakfast, we set off on what turns out to be a five-hour acclimatisation trek to the top of Farak Ri, behind the lodge. Definitely the toughest trek so far and much more demanding, especially navigating a treacherous, rocky ridge towards the end, I make it to the peak, encircled by guides. Meanwhile some of my fellow trekkers opt not to attempt the final leg, which baffles me having got 95% of the way.
COMING DOWN PROVES TO BE MORE
difficult that I envisage, and I have a fleeting "moment" as I come off the peak, when I momentarily freeze and doubt by ability to continue. Sherpas guide me down and I feel noticeably encircled by their care. At one point, Lahkpa offers to carry me down, which I politely refuse. But I do give him my backpack to carry, so I can focus all my efforts on descending safely. It's a great comfort to see MNL Kongde ahead and eventually I am back "home", in the warmth of the lodge, enjoying drinks in the lounge and looking forward to the exciting days ahead at Everest Base Camp.
DAY ELEVEN: KONGDE TO EVEREST BASE CAMP
After breakfast, three separate helicopter flights transport us from Kongde via Lukla and Pheriche to Everest Base Camp. Hats off to trek organiser Jason Friedman for transporting all of us, with our luggage, to EBC with military precision. It's quite an operation. For the third flight, from Pheriche to EBC, regulations dictate that we are ferried two at a time, which adds even more planning to an already intensely complicated day.
TO SAY THAT LANDING AT EBC IS otherworldly is a huge understatement. Surrounded by the towering snow-capped peaks of Lhotse, Changtse, Pumori, and Nuptse, the landscape is nothing short of breathtaking, I've never seen anything like it before and I am genuinely lost for words. What makes the experience even more exceptional, is the fact that the camp is pretty much empty, due to the fact that all Everest climbers finished summiting the preceding week, and cleared out after descending the mountain, taking the communications tower with them. For some reason, the prospect of being out of touch with the rest of the world doesn't particularly bother me.
Located south of Everest, Lhotse towers over the camp, its wide and prominent mountain face looking down on us from its 8,516-metre peak - the fourthhighest in the world. Lhotse's immense, majestic presence is a graceful constant over the coming days. ➤
Namche Bazaar
Mount Everest from MLN Kongde Lodge
DUE TO THE ALTITUDE (WE ARE 5,364 metres up, after all) my chest is tight and breathing is difficult. But I'm fine for the first few hours, settle into my tent, and move around the camp with care, since we are essentially living on a slowlymelting glacier.
After some lunch in a dome-like structure at the center of the camp, where we spend much of our time when we are not in our individual tents, the group sets out for the Khumbu Icefall.
Difficulty breathing slows me down considerably and in terms of walking and moving around, I've physically aged thirty years in a matter of hours. Mentally I'm A OK, but I cannot do what I want to and I become frustrated. I attempt a slow walk across the treacherous terrain towards a viewpoint, accompanied by a guide and a fellow trekker. But barely five hundred metres in, I have to turn back, for fear of not having enough energy to make it back to camp. I stop frequently to breathe and snap a few photos, and desperately want to go further, but it's impossible.
As I near the camp, my legs give way beneath me and I'm carried to my tent where my boots are pulled off and I'm put to bed, where I remain all night under close supervision. In and out of consciousness, I sleep fitfully and hallucinate much of the night.
DAY TWELVE: EVEREST BASE CAMP
I wake-up the next morning dreadfully sleep deprived and weak. When four members of the group (all a generation younger than I!) decide to pay for their own helicopter to back to Lukla, I feel less pitiful and decide to stay. After all, it's not every day one is encircled by such a tableau of overwhelming sights, nestled within the lap of the Khumbu Glacier, surrounded by vast stretches of fractured ice scattered like a natural mosaic. All around, glacial blue hues intertwine with the greys of ancient rock, their stark beauty illuminated by the brilliant sunlight of a high Himalayan spring. Despite having difficulty breathing, I'm not going anywhere. Not yet anyway.
I SPEND THE DAY IN-AND-AROUND THE camp. I sit at the edge of my tent, facing a burbling glacial stream within mere metres of my boots, sipping tea and enjoying the sound of water running downhill, undisturbed by social media or other first world intrusions. It's just me and Mother Nature. When the others return from their adventures, I join them to hear their stories. With less people
in the group, more laughter ensues, and my time at EBC becomes some of my most memorable.
At dusk, as the sun dips below the jagged skyline, the sky is lit up by streaks of colour which are mirrored in the icy expanse below. And we collect as a group to gaze at the plethora of stars twinkling in the sky above.
DAY THIRTEEN: EVEREST BASE CAMP
Reminding us all that Mother Nature dictates what we can or cannot do in her Himalayas, much of the day is spent by the trek organisers, trying to arrange helicopter transfers to Lukla for an end-oftrek party that night. However, despite their best endeavours, we remain at Base Camp for an extra unplanned day and night, and use the time to make a dent in the remaining stash of wine, including having an unconventional alfresco Sunday brunch in the snow. It takes just a bottle and a half of wine to make half a dozen of us merry.
DAY FOURTEEN: EVEREST BASE CAMP TO KATHMANDU
In the crisp morning air, the distant roar of an avalanche echoes through the valley, a reminder of the mountains' sublime yet indifferent power. All around, the atmosphere carries an otherworldly quality, simultaneously serene and electric, imbued with the determination of climbers past and the spiritual weight of the sacred mountains. And whilst breathing is still an issue, when the helicopter eventually arrives to transport us back to the real world, I am genuinely sad to leave, or Everest Base Camp is a place that defies earthly comparison.
THE END OF MY TREK OF A LIFETIME comes in the form of a spectacular high-altitude helicopter ride, during which the pilot takes us up to even greater heights, towards the face of elegant mount Lhotse, before flying us down the valley to Lukla. An out-of-this world finale, as I arrive back in Kathmandu that afternoon, having descended some 4,000 metres in a matter of hours, it is the sheer magnificence of the Himalayas that lingers most vividly in my mind - a realm where human ambition meets the untamed majesty of Mother Nature, for whom I now have a newfound and lasting reverence.
https:// mountainlodgesofnepal.com/journeys
DESTINATION SPOTLIGHT
Sri Dalada Maligawa
KANDY
SRI LANKA
sri lanka's last kingdom
SURROUNDED BY LUSH HILL COUNTRY, AND THE ISLAND NATION'S SECOND LARGEST CITY AFTER COLOMBO, CAROLYN MCKAY IS ENCHANTED BY THE HISTORY, ARCHITECTURE, AND TRADITIONS OF SRI LANKA'S FORMER ROYAL CAPITAL
NESTLED AMIDST THE verdant central highlands of the teardrop island nation of Sri Lanka, surrounded by lush tea plantations and abundant rainforests teeming with wildlife, the historic city of Kandy seems a world away from the urban sprawl of the country’s administrative capital, Colombo, several hours west.
DECLARED A WORLD HERITAGE SITE by UNESCO in 1988, upon arriving in modernday Kandy, you could be mistaken for thinking that it is just another bustling, commercial, and rapidly developing Indian Ocean metropolis. But it doesn’t take long to discover that this dynamic city has a rich and stately pedigree that dates back centuries, a history which is still very much a source of pride and admiration today for the predominately Sinhalese population, as well as for Buddhist pilgrims who visit year-round from around the world.
This heritage is no more evident than when one sets out early morning to explore Kandy
Lake. The manmade body of water, also known as Bogambara Lake, is the legacy of the last Kandyan king, and was created in the early 19th century, just a few years before his kingdom was finally appropriated by the British Empire.
AS THE SUN BEGINS TO RISE, BEFORE the traffic and the heat of the day build, there is a palpable pause in Kandy, as the dawn light glimmers across the still waters, and one can feel a sense of the great standing that this former city once held. Close your eyes, and you can almost hear laughter and music emanating from the island in the centre of the lake, for local legend says that it was used by the King’s harem, and was connected to the Royal Palace by a secret underground tunnel.
KANDY WAS ONCE A ROYAL CITY KNOWN as Maha Nuwara (Great City) and reigned the island for more than three centuries until 1815. Under the island-wide Kingdom of Kotte, which unified the island in the early 15th century, the Kandyan Kingdom, with its realm extending
Young monks walking along the embankment of Kandy Lake
Kandy's old town Queen's Hotel
across the central and eastern areas of Sri Lanka, maintained a semi-autonomous state, appointing Kandy as its capital in 1469.
During the 1500s, whilst the Portuguese conquered vast areas of the island around the coast, Kandy maintained its independence as a Buddhist and Sinhalese stronghold, protected in part by its geographic position surrounded by jungle terrain, as well as the tenacity of its devout population.
IN 1590, IN THE FIRST YEAR OF HIS REIGN, King Vimaladharmasuriya brought the sacred tooth relic of Buddha to Kandy, to ensure that it was protected from the Portuguese, and as a political ploy, for it was deemed that only those who had custody of the tooth, had the right to rule.
A few years later in 1592, as the Portuguese's rule of the island widened, Kandy become the last surviving capital of the Sinhalese monarchy.
AMIDST THE UNCERTAINTY
surrounding Buddha’s death in 486 BC, it is believed his left canine was snatched from the flames of his funeral pyre. Hidden in her hair,
the sacred relic was smuggled to Sri Lanka by Princess Hemmamali, where it was secreted in various locations around the island for many years, until its final move to Kandy.
The first temple that was purpose built for the sacred tooth by King Vimaladharmasuriya, was soon destroyed by the Portuguese. And the second temple, constructed on the same site, was later burnt by the Dutch.
THE ELABORATE TEMPLE COMPLEX
which still houses the relic today, known as Sri Dalada Maligawa, was built in the early 1700s. Commonly known as The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, it remains a place of pilgrimage for believers from across the island and around the world. All Sri Lankan Buddhists make a journey to the temple at least once in their lifetime.
Subject to being dressed appropriately, all are welcome to join the hundreds of devotees who visit the temple daily, either in the early morning or evening, to walk through to the inner sanctum where the sacred relic is venerated, encased in seven gold caskets, each bedecked with precious gems. https:// sridaladamaligawa.lk
THE STOICISM THAT ENABLED THE Kandyan Kingdom to maintain its grip on power and separateness from the encroaching Portuguese, continued throughout the establishment of Dutch Ceylon, and then into the early years of British colonialisation.
Whilst the British ended more than 2,500 years of sovereignty in Sri Lanka in 1815, when the Kandyan Kingdom finally ceded, Kandy is still proudly recognised as the cultural and historical centre of the island. Much of the art, history and culture unique to this community has survived, in contrast to other areas where many endemic traditions were subdued or lost, owing to the hundreds of years of dominion by the Portuguese, Dutch, and British.
NOWHERE IS THIS PRIDE MORE EVIDENT than during the annual Kandy Esala Perahera, also known as The Festival of the Tooth, which is held in Kandy at around the time of the Esala Full Moon Poya, usually at the end of July. A significant holiday celebrated in Sri Lanka on the full moon in the eighth lunar month, Esala is
one of the twelve full moon or Poya days, that are considered auspicious by Sri Lankan Buddhists. All twelve are public holidays.
The Esala Full Moon Poya commemorates the day that Buddha delivered his first sermon at the deer park of Isipathana, and perahera processions take place all around Sri Lanka on this day. But the biggest celebrations, by far, are in Kandy, where pomp, pageantry and artistry joyfully collide with customs, religion and ancient traditions, and the casket carrying the sacred tooth relic plays an integral role. The festivities involve elaborately costumed dancers, musicians beating traditional drums and blowing trumpets, decorated elephants and fire eaters, and masked characters portraying stories that have been retold for centuries. If you are in Kandy at this time of the year, be sure to secure tickets and revel in the this colourful and energetic festival that continues for many days. https:// kandyesalaperahera.com
AT ANY TIME OF THE YEAR, ONE CAN learn more about the culture and traditions of this important area of Sri Lanka by visiting the Kandy
Buddhist monks in Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens
Museum, which is housed within a section of the former Royal Palace. Nearby, under the auspices of Sri Dalada Maligawa, the International Buddhist Museum offers a unique insight into Buddhism throughout Asia and the rest of the world.
TIME SPENT IN KANDY IS NOT COMPLETE without an unhurried wander through the city's original "old town" heart. Here, old and new stand side by side and some fine examples of British colonial architecture, such as the Post Office and the Town Hall, standout amongst the organised mayhem. If you have time, pause for a beverage at the Queen’s Hotel. Formerly a governor’s residence, it is today one of Sri Lanka's longest running hotels and something of a landmark. Within its portals, Victorian architecture delightfully intersects with South Asian traditions and Sri Lankan hospitality. https:// queenshotel.lk
THE TEMPLE OF THE SACRED TOOTH
Relic may be considered the most important temple, but it is not the only one worth visiting in this culturally rich region. From the nearby
hamlet of Bahirawa Kanda, a 27-metre Buddha, seated in the Nirvana pose, overlooks the former royal city and surround areas. One of the tallest Buddha statues in Sri Lanka, it is part of the Sri Maha Bodhi Viharaya temple, which was built in 1972 on an ancient site dedicated to the deity known as Bhairava. It is believed that animal sacrifices, and possibly human sacrifices also, were made here for the protection against evil.
SLIGHTLY FURTHER AFIELD ARE THREE smaller but significant temples, often referred to as the "Three Temple Loop". The temples of Embekka, Lankathilaka and Gadaladenyia were built in the 14th century, before the establishment of the Kandyan empire. The seven kilometretrail between the three, meanders through small villages and paddy fields. These places of worship bear witness to Sri Lankan heritage and craftsmanship. Embekka is recognised for its intricately carved wooden pillars and features, whilst Lankathilaka boasts a powerful presence from Panhalgala, the rock upon which it is built.
Sri Maha Bodhi Viharaya
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic or Sri Dalada Maligawa
Tower Square
perahera festivities involve elaborately costumed dancers, musicians beating traditional drums and blowing trumpets, and masked characters portraying stories that have been retold for centuries
Kandyan dancers
And nearby Gadaladeniya, built in 1344, reflects a harmonious blend of Buddhist and Hindu traditions and practices. When refuge is needed from the city's hustle and bustle, and its kaleidoscope of old and new, do as the locals do and retire to the cooler climes of the nearby hills!
NOT FAR TO THE SOUTHWEST, THE shaded avenues of the Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens encourage slow strolls enveloped by a colourful array of tropical flora and fauna and intoxicating scents. With more than 4,000 species across the 62-hectare site, and renowned for its stunning collection of orchids, the gardens were formally established in 1821 under British rule, although the area had previously been used as a royal garden, as well as a temporary royal residence during the Kandyan Kingdom.
FOR THOSE SEEKING A LITTLE MORE adventure, in the opposite direction lies the Knuckles Mountain Range with its distinctly shaped peaks. Camping and trekking opportunities abound in this area rich with biodiversity. In between the peaks, seemingly at every turn in the road, there are numerous tea plantations, many of which originate from the mid-1860s when a Scottish tea planter, James Taylor, introduced the industry of tea farming to British Ceylon. Today, Sri Lanka is one of the world’s largest exporters of tea. Estates welcome visitors for tours, which highlight the labour intensive and timeconsuming process, from hand-plucking bushes all the way through to the ancient machinery still used to wither, roll, and dry. A good cup of Sri Lankan tea is the perfect way to end a plantation tour.
AWAY FROM THE BEACHES AND PALM trees often associated with Sri Lanka, the city of Kandy, along with its surrounding former kingdom, genuinely inspires wonder, exploration, and respect. And the significant role Kandy plays in the preservation of the island's culture and ancient traditions is evident at every turn. A charming blend of old and new, filled with friendly people brimming with pride and tenacity, it's well worth setting aside 48-hours to explore Kandy, when visiting the resplendent isle of Sri Lanka.
away from the beaches and palm trees often associated with sri lanka, the city of kandy, along with its surrounding former kingdom, genuinely inspires wonder, exploration, and respect
Tuesday - Sunday: All day until 1am Bar, Restaurant & Club Privé
IN A CITY OF HUNDREDS OF EATERIES, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER REVIEWS A STANDOUT RIVIERA-STYLE RESTAURANT IN DUBAI, BORN FROM THE DEDICATION OF A RESTAURATEUR WITH DECADES OF HOSPITALITY EXPERIENCE; VISITS THE NEW COLOMBO LOCATION OF SRI LANKA'S FINEST JAPANESE RESTAURANT, AND KICKS BACK IN A MASTERCHEF FINLAND JUDGE’S NEW FRENCH BISTRO IN HELSINKI
Bungalo34, Dubai, UAE
REVIEW
IN A WATERSIDE LOCATION OVERLOOKING THE ARABIAN GULF, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU IS BLOWN AWAY BY AN INDIVIDUAL RIVIERA-STYLE RESTAURANT THAT IMPRESSES WAY BEYOND ANY PREVIOUS DINING EXPERIENCE IN DUBAI PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIET DUNNE
BUNGALO34
➤ DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
THE ENTREPRENEURIAL WOMAN behind some of South Africa's and the United Arab Emirates' most successful culinary ventures, is a testament to the power of passion and the influence of cultural heritage. Born in South Africa to Greek parents, Natasha Sideris' early life was shaped by an artistic mother, a strong sense of family, and a rich,
multifaceted culture. Her Greek roots, with their deep connection to hospitality and food, alongside her South African upbringing, gave her a unique lens through which to view the world, and created a somewhat maverick young businesswoman who was driven and determined. And growing up in the restaurant business, by the side of a father who
was a qualified chef and successful restaurateur, surrounded by a fusion of traditions and her family’s kitchen serving as a centre for both community and creativity, became the pillars upon which Sideris' remarkable success was built.
THOUGH SIDERIS STUDIED
psychology and sociology at university, her passion for hospitality was already ingrained, and it wasn't long before she opened her first eponymous eatery. Reputedly established with money borrowed from a loan shark, the first Tashas café opened in 2005, in the neighbourhood shopping centre of Atholl Square in Johannesburg. Intended to be a sole business which would finance her ongoing studies, everything changed when the café was
a "rip-roaring success" with queues round the block, and friends had to help serve some 1,000 customers per day. The rest, as they say, is history. Almost two decades later, there are 15 Tashas locations in South Africa. And towards the end of last year, Sideris premiered the first UK outpost of Tashas, which sits across from Battersea Power Station's main mall, and has already become a go-to place for locals, brunching families, and ladies who casually lunch.
AFTER CHOOSING THE MIDDLE
East for the brand's first overseas expansion outside of South Africa, Sideris relocated to Dubai, which had become a metropolitan melting pot of cultures, complete with a vibrant and very much burgeoning restaurant scene. With a keen sense of business, a great deal of ambition, and an understanding of what Dubai’s everevolving culinary landscape needed, the first Tashas in Dubai embodied the kind of informal sophistication that has come to define modern dining in the region. Its success led to six locations in the UAE, with Sideris becoming one of the Emirates' most notable restaurateurs, strengthened by a reputation for treating staff exceptionally well in a country that sometimes does not. Indeed, I discover that during the Covid pandemic, all Tashas staff were paid before any partners or execs took money out of the business.
YET, SIDERIS' JOURNEY TO becoming the culinary success she is today was not without its challenges, not only facing the typical hurdles
Natasha Sideris
of entrepreneurship, but also the particularities of building a brand in a city like Dubai, where taste and trends shift very rapidly. Despite such obstacles, Sideris' ability to fuse the old with the new – drawing from multiple culinary traditions while embracing modern influences – have allowed her to create spaces that resonate with a diverse clientele. Her personal touch is evident in every restaurant, where the balance between the contemporary and the traditional feels natural.
AS IS
USUALLY
THE CASE WITH a successful entrepreneur, as Sideris' success has grown, so have her ambitions. And when everything is ticking along nicely, one tends to be more creative, and has the luxury of being able to lavish attention on a passion project. For Sideris, this creativity has manifested itself in Bungalo34 - a stand-alone boutique, bar, and restaurant housed within Nikki Beach Resort on Pearl Jumeira, which is brimming with gorgeous attention to detail and reflects her experiences, travels, and heritage, together with her unique vision for hospitality in Dubai. Indeed, Bungalo34 is perhaps the most personal venue that Sideris has created
to date and I feel this the moment I arrive, leaving the city behind and entering a warm, welcoming, and cosseting world of Sideris' making. As I sit at the bar and order a Bungalo34 Spritz, I'm quietly impressed that such an individual place exists in the UAE, and my plan to stay for just a few hours soon goes out the window.
THE NAME BUNGALO34 ITSELF holds a personal connection to Sideris’ own life. It is attributed to the number of a secluded bungalow at the Astir Palace hotel in the seaside town of Vouliagmeni, along the Athens Riviera, a place Sideris
has visited year after year for two decades. Dating back more than 60 years to when the hotel first opened, the warm and familiar atmosphere of the bungalow is something of a refuge and a sanctuary, offering her the kind of peace and reflection that inspired the creation of the restaurant. A place where she enjoys genuinely relaxed downtime with friends and family and elicits a wealth of wonderful memories, the bungalow has come to represent a special place of comfort, tranquillity, and personal significance in Sideris’ life, and remains a calm constant in her otherwise fast-paced lifestyle.
Amalfi Lemon Pasta
ONCE I MEET THE LADY, IT IS apparent that Bungalo34 is a natural extension of Sideris and her philosophy. The main dining room particularly, divided into two levels by a few steps, feels intimate yet undeniably stylish, and its walls are hung with works which have obviously been hand-picked by someone with good, eclectic taste. I'm drawn to a number of the pieces and enjoy some private time, before dinner service begins, to view and appreciate the collection of paintings, sculpture and art pieces that have been lovingly brought together at Bungalo34. Courtesy of the restaurant's waterfront position,
I also just catch the sun setting over the Arabian Gulf’s blue waters, before friends join me for the meal.
TO A BACKDROP OF FUNKY, soulful music that literally makes my toes tap but doesn't intrude on the conversation, delivered by an unassuming DJ who presides over the restaurant from a modest booth, what unfolds is a meal which is as delicious and hearty as it is passionately presented and intentionally unfussy. This is good, wholesome fare, executed to perfection and served by a team of staff who obviously love what they do and take pride in making guests happy. Before long, the room is alive with happy people (on a Tuesday night), and we purposely slow down the proceedings to revel in the palpably positive atmosphere, and enjoy each other's company and the unique space in which we are eating.
AMONGST THE MANY DISHES
we sample, it is the ones fashioned from the simplest yet freshest of ingredients that most impress. A creamy lemon pasta inspired by Italy's Amalfi coast, served on beautiful handmade crockery, is incredibly moreish and epitomises Bungalo34's culinary formula of simple food, prepared well, with passion.
Whole Baked Seabass
A signature dish of grilled tiger prawns finished in a spicy buttery sauce, tinted with lemon and garnished with shoestring fries, is demolished tout de suite. While a whole seabass, taken from the restaurant's beautiful display of fresh fish and crustaceans that we pass on the way in, having been slowly and gently baked in the oven, is lingered over more longingly. Despite being almost full, it is impossible not to pick at the tender fish, delicately flavoured with baby roasted tomatoes, shallots, chilli and herbs, until there is nothing left but bones. Somehow, we find space for a delectable chocolate mousse, served in a huge conch-like dish with sides of bite-sized cookies and luscious caramel sauce, and a Banana Split that would put a smile on
anyone's face, theatrically drizzled with sauce tableside.
AN EXCEEDINGLY SPECIAL place, particularly for the Middle East, to visit Bungalo34 isn't to simply have a "dining experience". On the contrary, sitting down at Bungalo34 is to immediately feel like you belong, feast on good food, relish conversation between friends and enjoy time out from day-to-day life, whilst being surrounded by visually enjoyable, unpretentious and uplifting surroundings. I depart feeling happy, utterly contented and satiated in every way, and cannot wait for my next visit to what feels like an extension of Natasha Sideris’ own, inviting home.
BUNGALO34
CULINARY DIRECTOR: Jill Lee Okkers HEAD CHEF: Conor Dirks
CREDIT CARDS: All major except Amex PARKING: Complimentary valet
TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner
Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room
Chocolate Mousse
ESTABLISHED SINCE 1995, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS THE NEW COLOMBO LOCATION OF THE FIRST SRI LANKAN RESTAURANT TO MAKE IT ONTO THE COVETED ASIA'S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS LIST, AND REMAIN THERE FOR SIX YEARS
NEWCOMER
NIHONBASHI COLOMBO, SRI LANKA
DHARSHAN
Munidasa’s journey is a masterclass in passion, precision, and cultural harmony.
With a Sri Lankan father and a Japanese mother, Munidasa’s heritage is as rich as his culinary vision. Growing up in Colombo and Tokyo, he was influenced by the flavours and cooking traditions of both cultures. However, his interest in the culinary arts truly emerged during his university years in the United
States, where he taught himself to cook in the absence of familiar flavours. This self-guided education would later become the foundation of an extraordinary career, one that has not only transformed the dining landscape of Sri Lanka, but has also gained him international acclaim.
Dharshan Munidasa
IN 1995, AT JUST 24 YEARS OLD, Munidasa opened his first restaurant, Nihonbashi, in Colombo. His mission was to bring authentic Japanese cuisine to Sri Lanka, rooted in his deep appreciation for his mother’s culture. Nihonbashi was groundbreaking at the time, offering traditional Japanese dishes that celebrated the purity and simplicity of Japanese culinary philosophy. Sourcing ingredients directly from Japan and embracing timehonoured techniques, Munidasa established Nihonbashi as a place of dedication and respect for Japanese dining. His efforts introduced Sri Lankans to the artistry of sushi, sashimi, and tempura, all meticulously crafted with an unwavering commitment to quality. The restaurant became a sensation, and Munidasa quickly gained a reputation as one of Sri Lanka’s most talented chefs.
MUNIDASA’S AMBITIONS
extended beyond Japanese cuisine. In 2011, he co-founded Ministry of Crab with two of Sri Lanka’s cricketing legends, Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara, this time with a focus on showcasing Sri Lanka’s seafood treasures, especially its legendary lagoon crabs. Ministry of Crab was as much an homage to Sri Lanka’s natural bounty as it was a bold statement about the country’s place on the culinary map. Featuring dishes like garlic chilli crab and pepper crab, Munidasa’s creations spotlighted local ingredients in their most authentic form, seasoned only as necessary to amplify their natural flavours. Within a short time, the restaurant earned a place on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, drawing diners from around the world
and cementing Munidasa’s position as Sri Lanka’s most celebrated chef.
MUNIDASA’S VISION CONTINUED to expand, taking him beyond Sri Lanka’s shores. Recognising the potential to bring his distinctive style of cooking to an international audience, he opened Ministry of Crab locations across Asia, with outposts in India, Maldives, Singapore, Thailand, and China. Each of these restaurants embodies Munidasa’s philosophy of respecting ingredients and honouring local culinary traditions while maintaining his meticulous standards. These overseas ventures showcase not only the beauty of Sri Lankan crabs, but also Munidasa’s ability to adapt and innovate, bringing his unique approach to diverse culinary landscapes. His
Chikurin Room at Nihonbashi, Colombo
work overseas has played a pivotal role in introducing global diners to the flavours of Sri Lanka, reinforcing his status as a true culinary ambassador.
IN ADDITION TO NIHONBASHI and Ministry of Crab, the opening of a Carne Diem Grill restaurant marked a bold step into the world of fine meats, offering a unique approach to grilling, with a focus on high-quality cuts and carefully sourced ingredients. Like his other establishments, Carne Diem Grill celebrates the essence of the
ingredients, emphasising minimal intervention and showcasing meat in its most authentic form.
THROUGHOUT HIS CAREER , Munidasa has remained dedicated to showcasing the integrity of ingredients, whether through Japanese precision, Sri Lankan spices, or a carefully balanced fusion of the two. He has built a reputation as a perfectionist, a chef who treats cooking as both science and art. With every restaurant, Munidasa curates not just a menu but a cultural experience, inviting diners to appreciate the nuances of taste, texture, and tradition. His influence now extends far beyond Sri Lanka, shaping perceptions of Sri Lankan cuisine and redefining the standards of fine dining within and outside the country.
IN MAY 2024, MUNIDASA RETURNED to his culinary roots with the re-opening of Nihonbashi in a contemporary new location at the entrance to Colombo’s Port City area. Set against an entirely different backdrop than its predecessor, and visible from the capital's main coast road, the new restaurant is a fittingly modern update that speaks to honouring the legacy of the original Nihonbashi, while symbolising the journey of a chef who has spent nearly three decades reshaping the way food is experienced in Sri Lanka and across Asia.
Sashimi Moriawase
PERHAPS UNSURPRISINGLY FOR the first restaurant in Sri Lanka to ever feature on Asia’s 50 Best list (where it remained for six consecutive years), and one that procures the finest tuna, crabs and shrimp, the top notch food at Nihonbashi has always been a masterful blend of Japanese tradition and meticulous artistry, each dish reflecting Munidasa’s commitment to authenticity, focusing on purity of flavour and the highest quality ingredients.
IN NIHONBASHI'S NEW INCARNATION, as a chef might perhaps forage for unusual local ingredients, Munidasa walked the quarries of Sri Lanka to find the perfect materials for the restaurant's bar, Yakitori counters, and private dining rooms, uniquely utilising these first before completing the restaurant's design around them. They include giant boulders upon which the bar rests, and the towering bamboo seen throughout. After passing through a lane of vermilion torii gates, which straddle the restaurant's entrance, the overall effect of Munidasa's personalised input is inviting and warm,
much like the man himself, and gestures diners to relax and unwind soon after arriving. This I find out first hand, on a Saturday evening in November, when I perch myself on a stool at a high-top table infront of the bar, where I remain quite happily for hours, while sampling dishes and sipping French wine in the company of the charismatic chef-patron. Nihonbashi mark two is an outwardly relaxed and comfortable place to spend an evening and happily devoid of airs and graces, which cannot be said for many high-end Japanese restaurants.
WHAT I PARTICULARLY ENJOY
about the food at Nihonbashi, is the manner in which Munidasa both precisely celebrates Japanese gastronomy and creatively incorporates flavours unique to Sri Lanka in his dishes. My favourites of the night are a time-honoured Tai Chazuke dish, dating back three centuries to the town of Kitsuki in Japan's Oita prefecture, which is traditionally made with sea bream on rice with tea. Munidasa's interpretation sees delicate slices of sea bream sashimi placed atop
a mound of Japanese rice and topped with an egg yolk. Sizzling olive oil and garlic, theatrically heated table-side in-front of me (the aroma of which is itself somewhat intoxicating) is then poured over the top, lightly cooking the fish and the egg. Breaking the yolk and glazing the fish add a creamy and rich texture to the dish. The range of flavours I taste are extraordinary for such a humble collection of ingredients. The other standout dish is a crab shell filled with hand-picked Sri Lankan mud crab meat, topped with a panko crust and deep-fried. The creamy result is a divine marriage of sweet and savoury. The dish is served with homemade tartar sauce on the side, but for me, needs no such embellishment, and is simply perfect as is.
WHATEVER YOU EAT AT
Nihonbashi, whether it be a relatively simple hot tempura prawn and cold wasabi mayo rice wrap, known as Ten Sabi Temaki, or a soup-less spicy prawn ramen, minus the hot broth to deal with in the Sri Lankan heat, you can be sure that it has been fashioned from the freshest and most high-quality ingredients available, and prepared with care, honestly, and love. These are the hallmarks of Dharshan Munidasa's culinary career and the same qualities are evident in his new Colombo Nihonbashi restaurant, which is ingrained in Japanese tradition and infused with genuine Sri Lankan hospitality.
www. nihonbashi.lk
Spicy Prawn Soupless Ramen
Gyuu No Tataki
NEWCOMER
SET IN THE HEART OF THE UBER-COOL FINNISH CAPITAL, WHICH IS TODAY HOME TO AN ARRAY OF TOP NOTCH RESTAURANTS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU DINES AT MASTERCHEF FINLAND JUDGE AND ESTABLISHED CHEF-PATRON, HELENA PUOLAKKA'S NEWEST EATERY
CAFÉ
SAVOY HELSINKI, FINLAND
WITH ITS SPRAWLING forests, pure lakes, and ethereal Northern Lights, many of Finland's culinary
offerings are as captivating as its breathtaking landscapes. Its food culture draws deeply from an enduring relationship with nature and the seasons, celebrating ingredients at their freshest. The Finnish people’s respect for traditional methods and the wilderness’s bounty melds seamlessly with
a progressive, forward-thinking approach to food. As a result, in recent years, the country has experienced a culinary renaissance that is transforming local fare from simple staples into a vibrant gastronomic tapestry, routinely enticing gourmands from across the planet, including me!
NEWCOMER
HELSINKI STANDS AT THE centre of this evolution, championing a sophisticated, contemporary restaurant scene while honouring Finnish roots. Over the past two decades, the city has seen an influx of innovative restaurants that balance finesse with authenticity, and chefs who’ve drawn inspiration from the land around them. Diners in Helsinki are now as likely to find dishes crafted from foraged berries, game, and Baltic fish, as they are to encounter more global influences, all tied together with a uniquely Finnish sensibility. Yet amidst this dynamic food scene, it’s difficult to overlook the impact of one particular culinary figure: Helena Puolakka.
PUOLAKKA’S NAME HAS ALMOST become synonymous with Finnish fine dining, although her influence extends well beyond Finland’s borders. After training in some of the finest kitchens in France and the UK, including those of Pierre Koffman and Pierre Gagnaire, Puolakka brought home her expertise and passion for showcasing natural ingredients, fusing classical techniques with Nordic flavours in a way that feels both reverent and revolutionary. Her contributions have invigorated Helsinki’s culinary offerings, drawing numerous accolades and inspiring a generation of chefs to approach Finnish cuisine with fresh eyes.
ONE OF PUOLAKKA’S CROWNING achievements is her role as chef-patron of Savoy, one of Helsinki’s most renowned restaurants, having served guests for more than 85 years.
Occupying the top two floors of a landmark 1930s building overlooking Esplanade Park, Savoy boasts original heritage interiors and furniture by Aino and Alvar Aalto, which are protected by Helsinki City Museum. Under Puolakka’s guidance, Savoy continues to celebrate its storied past while embracing modernity. Every dish is exquisitely crafted with precision,
IMAGE: ANTON-SUCKSDORFF
Salad Niçoise
honouring Finland’s heritage ingredients. Think reindeer, perch, and wild mushrooms, reinterpreted with a lightness and finesse that reflect Puolakka’s classical training. Her influence has completely reinvigorated the restaurant, striking a careful balance between preserving Savoy’s essence and incorporating a contemporary twist. Yet, Puolakka’s vision goes beyond maintaining Finnish culinary institutions..
IN NOVEMBER 2022, PUOLAKKA unveiled Café Savoy, on the ground floor, street level of the same historic building which is crowned by Savoy restaurant.
A study in understated elegance, walled on two sides by windows which invite the city into the restaurant, the space feels at once urbane and unpretentious. Inspired by a beach towel, the mustard, white, and green mosaic striped floor at the entrance gestures diners to come in towards a 1920s farmhouse table that serves as a reception desk. A large open kitchen is very much part of the dining room and is set as a stage for chefs to shine. Everything cooking is very much on show and this immediately puts me at ease. Whilst a large space, the simplicity of the restaurant's layout is refreshing. I grab a stool at the bar, order a G&T, and peruse the menu while waiting for friends to arrive.
DESIGNED BY ACCLAIMED STUDIO
Joanna Laajisto, the restaurant's interior exudes the warmth of a welcoming living room, thoughtfully conceived as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. The design merges Scandinavian simplicity with a cosmopolitan flair. Wood panelled walls contrasting with oak flooring and sofas upholstered in a restrained yet gorgeous custom Annala wool fabric anchor the space in a sense of tactile comfort, while the large windows flood the room with light, deftly connecting diners to the city beyond. Vintage-inspired lighting fixtures, mid-century seating, and artfully arranged greenery create an atmosphere that is both convivial and intimate.
THE INTENTION HERE IS CLEAR: to establish a “default destination", a reliable culinary home-away-from-home that hums with relaxed yet vibrant energy. Chef-patron Puolakka oversees the restaurant’s operation and vision, bringing her finesse and sensibilities to bear on its identity. The kitchen, however, is the domain of chef Matias Poutiainen, who cooked upstairs for 12 years before taking the culinary reigns of Café Savoy. His experience and dedication to detail ensures that every plate reflects Café Savoy’s philosophy of refined simplicity.
WHEN I MEET FRIENDLY SOMMELIER
Heidi Reis, who is openly passionate about anything and everything related to food and wine, I am immediately impressed by her knowledge of different wine regions, realise that we are in good hands, and settle into the meal ahead, which I soon discover pays homage to the flavours of southern France.
I kick-off with a classic Salad Niçoise, laden with rich olive oil-soaked Ortiz tuna, accompanied by an excellent dry Langhe Bianco Sto Fuori Italian white. Hailing from Barolo, made from Timorasso grapes, and brimming with fruity and floral nuances, the wine is an excellent match for the salad, which is itself perfect in every way.
Slow cooked lamb shoulder from Sisteron, creamy polenta, capers
Matias Poutiainen and Helena Puolakka
The delicious Pâté en Croûte which follows is encased in a generous, beautifully golden pastry crust. Again, the dish cannot be faulted. This is timeless, simple French cuisine, impeccably executed. And the modest French Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame Cabernet Franc red served with it, from the mid-Loire, doesn't overpower the flavourful, meaty pâté.
The meal continues in the same accomplished vain, and is akin to dining at a refined and reliable, long-established Parisian bistro. Everyone at the table is relaxed, happy, satiated, and impressed. My lobster linguine main course is particularly special. And we even have a little room left to share a dessert.
A FLAWLESS AND RELAXED experience from start to finish, which expertly honours the south of France's culinary heritage, to dine at Café Savoy is to gather with friends in comfortable surrounds and enjoy the simple pleasures of socialising, eating excellent food, sipping fine wines, and letting the conversation flow. I will surely be back.
https:// cafesavoy.fi/en
IMAGE: MIKKO RYHÄNEN
IMAGE: MIKKO RYHÄNEN
rossano ferretti MINUTES WITH 5
SOMETHING OF AN ARCHITECT OF BESPOKE HAIR ELEGANCE, WITH A GLOBAL EMPIRE OF HAIR SPA SALONS AND A LIFELONG COMMITMENT TO HIS CRAFT, HAIRDRESSER ROSSANO FERRETTI CHATS TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HIS REVOLUTIONARY ‘METHOD’ HAIRCUT AND TRANSFORMING HAIRDRESSING INTO AN ART FORM
You have been an incredibly successful hairdresser for decades – what keeps you going and drives you day-to-day?
I’m inspired by the power of transformation and the joy of bringing out someone’s natural beauty via their hair. I’ve always believed in creating elegance without complication, and that belief keeps my drive alive, as does meeting people from around the world, understanding their needs, and creating beauty that feels unique to them.
As a child, what were your interests?
I loved art, architecture, and nature –essentially anything that allowed me to create and connect with beauty. I was always drawn to details and loved observing people, their gestures, and their unique ways of expressing themselves. I actually wanted to become an architect, but hairdressing captured my heart and allowed my creativity to flourish early-on.
Tell us about growing up in the small Italian village of Campegine?
Simple. I sometimes I felt out of place, since everyone wanted to stay there, while I wanted to explore the world. Growing up in such a small village taught me to value people, traditions, and the art of genuine connection. My family was incredibly close and I grew up watching my mother and grandfather create beautiful hair in their small, two-chair village salon. That instilled in me a deep respect for the craft, that remains with me to this day.
Where did you learn about hairdressing?
My family were my first teachers but I knew that I wanted to go further. So, I saved everything I could and eventually made my way to London to study formally.
What was London like in the 1970s for a 15-year-old from an Italian village?
Bursting with life, colour, and new ideas, London was both thrilling and overwhelming. And coming from a small Italian village, it felt like a completely different, fascinating world to me. I threw myself into the city, eager to absorb everything, from the people to the culture. The experience opened my mind and creativity.
Were you daunted at all?
There were moments of doubt, of course, for I was young and far from home. But I was also very determined. I saw every challenge as an opportunity, and the city’s energy kept me going, even when things got tough.
As a young hairdresser, who did you look up to and admire?
People like Vidal Sassoon, who helped shape the hairdressing industry, inspired me deeply. But beyond famous names, I was inspired by anyone who approached hair, beauty, fashion and design with passion and creativity. Many times, I have also been inspired by great chefs, since I love food and the concept of putting different ingredients together to create unique dishes.
Your lifetime goal as a hairdresser?
To change the way people see themselves and to elevate hairdressing to an art form. I want people to feel empowered and authentically beautiful, and I want to inspire future generations of hairdressers to think outside the box.
You are renowned for abandoning geometry in your haircutting techniques and cutting and styling based on true suitability. What brought this about?
For me, hair should enhance one’s natural beauty, not follow strict rules, and I realised early in my career that traditional techniques didn’t consider an individual’s unique features and personality. By
the Ferretti Metodo Cut, together with my sister Lorenza, we found a way to cut hair that moves effortlessly and complements each person’s face and lifestyle. It’s about creating harmony rather than fitting into a mold. Today, our method is referred to as the 'Invisible Cut'.
When did you first charge GBP 1,500 for a haircut?
15 years ago, as my reputation was growing around the world. I think is important to understand that cutting hair is an art and when done well can be a life changing experience. Hair is a way that people can express who they are and who they want to be and as such can be priceless to some people, like paying a large sum for a bottle of wine, a Michelin-starred meal, or the best seats at a sporting event or concert. I have not cut hair commercially for a very
long time now, although I am often asked, and the sums offered today far exceed those of 15 years ago! Today however, my goal is to support, educate and inspire.
Do you find incredible hairdressing talent via your TV competitions?
There’s so much talent out there, and I’m all for creating platforms for new stylists to showcase their skills. I’m always inspired by the passion and creativity I see, and it’s incredible to be able to mentor and guide the next generations.
You now have more than 20 Hair Spas around the world, many of which are in hotels, such as your new salon at the Park Hyatt Vienna. What makes them different? They are designed to offer an experience, not just a service. We combine luxurious care with a serene and private environment. Every visit is tailored to the client’s needs, and it’s not just about the hair – it’s about feeling relaxed, beautiful, and rejuvenated. Our Hair Spas in luxury hotels, such as our salon at the beautiful Park Hyatt Vienna, blend hospitality with the art of hairdressing. parkhyattvienna.com
When you are not working, where and how do you relax?
I love spending time with my family and being in nature. I especially enjoy being by the sea because there’s something incredibly calming about the sound of waves. I also enjoy cooking – it’s a creative outlet that allows me to express myself in a different way, away from the world of hair.
www. rossanoferretti.com
developing
Park Hyatt Vienna Hotel
2024 CHRISTMAS GIFT COLLECTION
WITH SO MUCH CHOICE ON THE HIGH STREET AND ONLINE, NOT TO MENTION SOCIAL MEDIA BOMBARDING US WITH ADS, IT'S NOT AS EASY THESE DAYS, AS ONE WOULD IMAGINE, TO FIND THE RIGHT CHRISTMAS GIFTS. THANKFULLY, ADRIAN GIBSON HAS BEEN SCOURING THE MARKETPLACE TO HELP RELIEVE YOUR STRESS! SO, WHETHER YOU'RE SHOPPING FOR A FASHIONISTA, FOODIE, A HOMEBODY OR AN ART AFICIONADO, THERE'S SOMETHING FOR PRETTY MUCH EVERYONE IN THIS CURATED ROUND-UP
ZANDRA RHODES X CELIA B
MARYANN DRESS
THE ZANDRA RHODES X CELIA B Maryann Dress is the perfect festive gift for a fashionista who loves expressing themselves with colour and print.
Designed by the veritable British queen of colourful prints, Dame Zandra Rhodes, in collaboration with celebrated Spanish designer, Celia B, this striking shirt dress is guaranteed to bring joy and brighten eyes. And with its daisy print in a rainbow of colours, it can be worn all year round to make a dramatic fashion statement.
GBP 299 https://celiab.com
ROYAL COLLECTION TREE DECORATION
INSPIRED BY THE Household Troops, who have been guarding the British Sovereign since 1660, your Christmas tree this year can be as well guarded, by this cute, hand-crafted felt guardsman decoration, dressed in full ceremonial uniform, complete with a tiny red coat, a bearskin hat, and gold brocade detailing. He is even patriotically holding a celebratory Union Flag! GBP 16 www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk
NEPTUNE ISLINGTON BISTRO GLASSES
BACK IN 1996, TWO BEST FRIENDS DECIDED to go into business together, selling hammocks, of all things, In the first year, they sold more than 5,000. 28 years later and they have more than 30 Neptune stores in the UK and Europe. The brilliant clarity, glamorous silhouette, and weighty feel of these Islington glasses make them the perfect choice for special get-togethers. Mouthblown in Poland by artisans, each glass is finished with an optic twist that beautifully catches and reflects the light.
GBP 45 for two glasses www.neptune.com
STERLING EFFORTS FEATHER PENDANT
HUSBAND AND WIFE TEAM, ROBB AND JESS WALLES, PRIDE THEMSELVES on lovingly handcrafting sterling silver jewellery, providing a friendly and personalised service to create bespoke pieces, and working closely with clients on a one-to-one basis, to turn their ideas into reality. This silver feather pendant is one of their latest designs, and is handmade in Robb’s modest workshop using a variety of silver smithing, texturing, and forming techniques. Every piece is individual and can be made in any size. From GBP 120 www.sterlingefforts.com
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN CANDLE
THE INTOXICATING WOODY scent of this giant, limited-edition candle, takes its inspiration from the traditional pine Christmas tree, hence its name, "Mon Beau Sapin", which is the French version of the the traditional German Christmas carol "O Tannenbaum". Contained within a beautiful Limoges porcelain jar, decorated as a homage to the brand's flagship Paris store, the candle burns for approximately 98 hours. GBP 285 www.franciskurkdjian.com
DRIES VAN NOTEN IMPOSSIBLE COMBINATIONS
IMPOSSIBLE COMBINATIONS IS a set of four new luxury eaux de parfum by renowned Belgian designer, Dries Van Noten, that are presented in beautiful two-tone bottles that will surely become highly collectable, now that the fashion pioneer has announced his retirement.
From GBP 225 each www.driesvannoten.com
BRITISH BOXERS BERWICK ROBE
THIS HIGH QUALITY BERWICK DRESSING GOWN BY British Boxers, in a bold check design, is the perfect attire to lounge around in relaxed style on Boxing Day. Fashioned from the softest brushed cotton, the robe features two elegant pockets, inside ties so that it hangs beautifully, and a belt. A wonderful gift for the man who has almost everything.
GBP 125 www.british-boxers.com
DAVINES COMPASSIONATE MEN'S GIFT SET
FOUNDED IN PARMA IN 1983 BY THE BOLLATI FAMILY, Davines started as a research laboratory, producing high-end haircare products for cosmetic companies worldwide. After 10 years, Davines began producing its own products, which are now available around the world. "Pasta & Love" is the brand's multipurpose men's range and this gift set includes beard and body wash, a softening shaving gel, and a post-shave moisturising cream.
GBP 54 davines.com
THE STANDARD SALT AND PEPPER SHAKERS
IF YOU HAVE EVER HAD LUNCH AT THE Standard’s Grill Restaurant, you may have noticed a pair of adorable doggies staring on your table. Now you can own your own, hand-painted with his and her collars.
USD 30 www.shopedition.com
technique not usually used in blankets, resulting in a brush stroke-like texture, the colours palette gently evokes beautiful Icelandic landscapes, including grassland, moss, lichen, sky and the mountains and will bring some winter GBP 221 www.shopedition.com
MATHMOS TELSTAR LAMP
THIS YEAR, MATHMOS HAS revisited one of its classic 90s lamps and revamped it with a slick update. This Telstar Rocket lamp now comes in a sleek matt gold finish and is available in eight colourways including a striking pink and yellow combo. All use Mathmos' new long-lasting lava formula. The packaging is also cool, and features graphics inspired by a 1960s Japanese film poster for the cult film, Barbarella GBP 88 www.mathmos.com
STONE & MASON TORTOISESHELL PEBBLE BAG
PERFECT FOR A NIGHT ON THE TOWN OR TRIPPING THE LIGHT FANTASTIC at a Christmas bash, this versatile tortoiseshell pebble-shaped bag by British mother-daughter duo, Stone & Mason, comes with a dual-purpose golden chain-link strap, meaning the bag can be worn crossbody or held as a clutch. It also comes with a matching crystal gua sha tool, which helps reduce puffiness in the skin the morning after!
GBP 265 https://stone-and-mason.com
EBIT PANEL COAT
FOUNDED BY SIMON WHITEHOUSE at the height of pandemic lockdowns, which was a time of isolation and struggle for many, EBIT (Enjoy Being in Transition) seeks to change the status quo surrounding mental health in the fashion community. This beautiful coat is made of sweatshirt fabric but instead of a typical hoodie, it is used in a more sartorial fashion, providing giving comfort in an elegant manner. The oversized fit gives a feeling of protection and cocooning oneself through the traumas of everyday life.
GBP 695 https://modes.com
BUCKINGHAM PALACE SLOE GIN
HAVE YOURSELF A RIGHT ROYAL TIPPLE this Christmas with Buckingham Palace’s very own sloe gin! Handpicked sloe berries are suffused with the Palace's very own dry gin to create this rich and intensely flavoured aperitif of a light ruby colour, reminiscent of plums, cranberries, cloves, and kirsch, creating a clean and medium aroma with an intense nose leaving you warm inside.
GBP 30 www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk
FABERGÉ HERITAGE SURPRISE PENGUIN LOCKET
HANGING FROM AN 18 CARAT YELLOW GOLD trace chain, this dapper, hand-painted Fabergé egg locket is made from 18 carat white gold and is dressed in black vitreous enamel. Inside, the cute penguin is set with a glittering white diamond eye, as he dances on a sparkling silicate agate base, which replicates the icy landscape of the Antarctic. 17 further brilliant cut round white diamonds adorn this utterly enchanting and unique piece, which will surely be passed down through generations.
GBP 12,960 www.faberge.com
SET OF ADAM HANDLING COOK BOOKS
CELEBRATED BRITISH CHEF ADAM HANDLING’S LIMITED edition boxed set of three recipe books, essentially tell the story of his restaurant group, and the road to his first Michelin star. The three books, Frog by Adam Handling, Why Waste?, and Perfect, Three Cherries encompass everything that he and his team have learned and developed over the years. Perfect for a devoted foodie or a dedicated amateur chef.
GBP 160 www.adamhandling.co.uk
MAISON GAMES BACKGAMMON SET
MAISON GAMES PRODUCES beautifully crafted luxury versions of everyone's favourite games, that are super stylish, functional, and make elegant gifts. Games can also be personalised for an extra special present.
From GBP 200 www.maisongames.com
STUDIO VOLTAIRE EXHIBITION CATALOGUE
STUDIO VOLTAIRE WAS CREATED more than 25 years ago by a group of artists and creatives and is today one of the UK’s leading not-for-profit arts and educational organisations. This catalogue was produced for one of Studio Voltaire's exhibitions earlier this year, when Beryl Cook and Tom of Finland were paired to much acclaim. A great gift for a culture vulture or fan of either of these two iconic artists.
GBP 20 www.studiovoltaire.org
PENHALIGON'S ROSE PLEASURES GIFT BOX
PENHALIGON'S HAS BEEN PRODUCING LUXURY fragrances for more than 150 years.This box set features one of its best selling scents, "Halfeti", which is named after a Turkish province where Byzantine, Armenian, Egyptian and Ottoman heritages all come together. The area was famed for its blood red roses that lined the banks of the river Euphrates. Layers of creamy rose and sweet spices fragrance a bottle of eau de parfum, twinned with a hand and body wash.
GBP 225 www.penhaligons.com
DSQUARED2 LEATHER DUFFLE BAG
FRESH FROM THE CATWALKS OF MILAN, THIS purposefully worn, brown leather duffle bag is ideal for a weekend away. Made in Italy and designed by fashion’s terrible twins, Dean and Dan, it features metallic branding, double zip fastening, and two handles.
GBP 1,275 www.dsquared2.com
JO GIBBS TUNNOCK'S PAPERWEIGHT
DESIGNER, CRAFTSWOMAN, ARTIST AND INTERIOR DECORATOR , Jo Gibbs trained at Chelsea Art College and worked in Italy for ten years as a fashion textile designer. Upon returning to the UK, both disillusioned and inspired by today's throwaway culture, she set up her own studio, dedicated to sourcing high quality objects and adding a stylish twist. Gibbs loves nothing more than upcycling discarded items and giving them a new lease of life, such as this stylish glass paperweight, made using the foil wrapper from a heritage Tunnock's Teacake. GBP 55 www.jogibbslondon.com
FORTNUM & MASON CHRISTMAS FEAST HAMPER
EVERYONE WILL FIND SOMETHING TO LOVE ON CHRISTMAS DAY, inside this indulgent Fortnum & Mason luxury hamper. The Londonbased inventor of the humble Scotch Egg has left nothing to chance this year, with this huge selection brimming with sweet treats, moreish foods, savoury delights, and delectable tipples. GBP 1,000 www.fortnumandmason.com
VERTEX BRONZE B36 WATCH
THIS METICULOUSLY CRAFTED SOLID BRONZE timepiece by heritage British watchmakers Vertex, was inspired by the iconic watches supplied to British forces on D-Day, and made to commemorate its 80th anniversary on 6 June 1944. Water resistant to 100 metres and echoing the spirit of resilience and precision that were critical on that day, the Vertex B36 features a classic 36 millimetre case, making it suitable for all wrist sizes, and uses top sapphire crystal, boxshaped for a distinctly vintage look while offering unbeatable scratch resistance. Inside, the watch is powered by a SW261 movement, known for its exacting reliability. The Vertex B36 is presented in a unique custom-made, military-grade tactical case, complete with a number of different straps. GBP 2,295 https://vertex-watches.com
LITTLE BLACK BOOK
WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 48 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE
SKATE AT SOMERSET HOUSE ➤ www.somersethouse.org.uk
SUPER BOWL LIX
➤ www.nfl.com/super-bowl
TTHE HOXTON VIENNA
➤ www.thehoxton.com
THE RITZ-CARLTON RABAT, DAR ES SALAM
➤ www.ritzcarlton.com
THE RITZ-CARLTON YACHT COLLECTION
➤ www.ritzcarltonyacht collection.com
THE SHINMONZEN ➤ https://theshinmonzen.com
THE SIAM ➤ www.thesiamhotel.com
THE ST. REGIS AL MOUJ
MUSCAT RESORT
➤ www.stregis.com
TREBARTHA EAST -
THE ROUND HOUSE ➤ www.trebartha-east.com
V
VENICE CARNIVAL
➤ www.carnevale.venezia.it
VERTEX WATCHES
➤ www.vertexwatches.com
VISIT KYOTO
➤ https://kyoto.travel/en
Kongde Ri, Nepal
Everest Base Camp, Nepal
suite with a view
FEATURING JUST 24 UNIQUE
bedrooms and suites slotted into 16th-century Palazzo Papadopoli’s original rooms, Aman Venice is located in San Polo, on the much quieter side of the Rialto Bridge, far from tourist-rammed San Marco.
Its name originating from the presence of Campo San Polo, the largest square after San Marco, San Polo is one of the city’s smallest, oldest, and most charming districts, and is enclosed in a vast loop by the Grand Canal.
The original owners of the palazzo, Venetian aristocrats Count Gilberto and Princess Bianca Arrivabene, still live in the top floors of the building. But below them, priceless frescos and massive Murano chandeliers are paired with decadent silks
and sleek furnishings, deftly reinterpreting Aman’s trademark minimalist aesthetic.
BOASTING MAGNIFICENT EYE-LEVEL VIEWS
of Venice's main waterway, the Grand Canal Suite offers an elegant and contemporary retreat in the heart of the city, its expansive interior comprising a king-sized bedroom and separate sitting room, each offering a different view. In the former, large picture windows frame the canal, while in the latter, the filigree, arched window creates drama and offers a different aspect. Both rooms are flooded with natural light and authentic, characterful features, including an original fireplace, gilt mirror, and a beautiful fan window.
