The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2025 Issue 49

Luang Prabang

A CITY TIPTOEING THROUGH TIME

BED & BREAKFAST

CREATE ENDLESS MEMORIES

Luxury and style in the heart of Southeast Asia

49 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2025

48 A CITY GENTLY TIPTOEING THROUGH TIME

A guardian of tradition and monastic pageantry, tucked into northern Laos at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Nicholas Chrisostomou is beguiled by the former Laotian royal capital of LUANG PRABANG, which uniquely balances the sacred and the colonial, the Lao and the European, the traditional and the present. Photography by Aarin Husain.

104 THE ISLAND OF ETERNAL ENCHANTMENT

Kevin Pilley explores the sun-drenched island of CAPRI, where sheer limestone cliffs plunge into a sapphire sea, ancient villas whisper scandalous secrets, and winding paths lead to breathtaking vistas – each step a journey through a world of myth, indulgence, and timeless Mediterranean allure.

121 A NEW ERA FOR TOKAJ WINE IN HUNGARY

Just over 200 kilometres from Budapest, The Cultured Traveller visits SAUSKA's cutting-edge Tokaj wine estate, where history, terroir, and innovation converge in a striking new architectural landmark that has reshaped the landscape.

46 WIN FOUR NIGHTS IN KIRAZLIYAYLA FOREST

Set amidst pine trees in Uludağ National Park, SWISSÔTEL ULUDAĞ BURSA is a tranquil new mountain retreat and luxury wellness spa, surrounded by gorgeous nature.

Known locally as Tak Bat , every morning in Luang Prabang, people kneel and offer alms, usually in the form of food, to processions of Buddhist monks. This practice has a deep history and holds significant meaning in Luang Prabang

CONTENTS

8 CONTRIBUTORS

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

From the Spanish city of València's annual burning of giant puppets, LAS FALLAS to India's ancient Hindu celebration of the triumph of good over evil, HOLI, and the ultimate party in Amsterdam, held in honour of the Dutch King's birthday, KONINGSDAG, The Cultured Traveller rounds up the standout festivals and cultural events happening around the world during the coming months.

28 REST YOUR HEAD

From SINGITA's new safari lodge,

set in the heart of Tanzania's Serengeti, affording guests front row seats to The Great Migration, to the GBP 1.5 billion six-year reimagination of London's storied Old War Offices, transforming them into a plush RAFFLES HOTEL, The Cultured Traveller checks into a dozen rather special places, around the world, to rest your head.

70 SUITE ENVY: BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT

High above Lake Lucerne, where the crisp alpine air meets a legacy of refinement, Nicholas Chrisostomou road-tests the resort's one-of-a-kind ROYAL SUITE, where a world of hushed opulence unfolds, and timeless elegance and contemporary luxury converge in perfect accord.

80 ART CULTURE: DAN KITCHENER

Also known as DANK and renowned for his neon-drenched murals of East Asian urban landscapes, The Cultured Traveller chats with the celebrated British street artist about his inspiration, travels, and work.

90 SPOTLIGHT: GALLE FORT

An ancient promontory by the sea, just a few hours' drive from the island nation's capital, Nicholas Chrisostomou is drawn back to Sri Lanka’s 16th century living fort.

116 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

In the stately surrounds of Whitehall, Joe Mortimer is seduced by MAURO COLAGRECO's quintessentially British fine dining restaurant, where menus shift with the seasons and humble vegetables rule the roost.

126 66 70 90 34 44 80

126 TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

From traditional dishes to cutting-edge culinary creations, with local winemakers and innovative chefs leading the way, The Cultured Traveller uncovers why the Slovenian capital of LJUBLJANA is a must-visit for food lovers.

139 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 49 of The Cultured Traveller magazine.

140 SUITE WITH A VIEW

Perched amongst the treetops overlooking the Upper Seletar Reservoir and merging effortlessly with the rainforest canopy, MANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT's unique treehouses draw architectural inspiration from the seed pods of the handsome Purple Millettia.

JOE MORTIMER

➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ MAURO COLAGRECO AT RAFFLES LONDON

A UK travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News, Joe is an avid wine enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating a corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.

KEVIN PILLEY

➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ CAPRI, ITALY

UK-based Kevin Pilley is a former professional cricketer and was Punch magazine's chief staff writer. His humour, travel, food and drink work appears in magazines and online worldwide, and he has been published in close to 800 titles. And now The Cultured Traveller!

AARIN HUSAIN

➤ PHOTOGRAPHED LUANG PRABANG, LAOS

Based in The Golden City of Jaisalmer in the western Indian state of Rajasthan, with a youthful, keen eye for detail and deftly able to capture candid photos, Aarin has been shooting photos and taking video since he was old enough to hold a camera, and has already created three covers for The Cultured Traveller

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Joe Mortimer, Aarin Husain, Kevin Pilley, Howard Healy

WITH THANKS TO Arsen Novosel, Jason Friedman, Lee Sutton Amarilli Wiseman, Gregor Banič, Simeon Gönc Ksenija Mravlja, Chris Franzen, Marko Fluka

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté, London

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com

Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

➤ ISSUE 49

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ. LONDON W2 1AY, UK

COVER: A monk walking towards The Royal Palace Museum in Luang Prabang, which was once Laos' Royal Palace. Photographed by Aarin Husain.

ONE OF THE MANY DELIGHTS of travelling is realising that a destination enamours so much, you will most certainly return. Whereupon you can take your foot off the peddle, slow down the sightseeing, and relax into the pace of the place, safe in the knowledge that you’ll be back. The last time I felt this was in Beijing – China’s sprawling city of emperors, dragons and palaces. Almost one-year later to the day, it happens to me again in Laos’ former royal capital, but for entirely different reasons.

TUCKED INTO NORTHERN Laos at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Luang Prabang is surely one of few places left in the world where time is measured not in minutes or hours, but in the slow turning of the seasons, and the rhythm of saffron-robed monks’ gentle footsteps at dawn. A city of mist-laced mornings and golden twilight, while it is refreshingly detached from the modern world, Luang Prabang is not entirely untouched by time, but cradling it, trying hard to preserve it, and wearing it with grace, while allowing visitors to experience its many charms (page 48)

Also in our forty-ninth issue, first-time contributor Kevin Pilley, explores the famed Italian island of Capri, where sheer limestone cliffs plunge into sapphire waters, ancient villas whisper scandalous secrets, and winding paths and hundreds of steps lead to breathtaking vistas (page 104). Celebrated British street artist Dan Kitchener, takes time out of painting murals around the world, to chat with The Cultured Traveller about the

inspiration for his striking, neon-soaked works (page 80). And dedicated foodie and wine afficionado, Joe Mortimer, steps through an oak doorway on Horse Guards Avenue for an evening at Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London – the first UK outpost of the muchawarded Argentine chef, where menus shift with the British seasons and humble vegetables are the stars of the show (page 116)

AS ALWAYS, I HOPE THAT you find something in the next hundred or so pages, to tempt you to travel to somewhere you haven't yet visited, plan an epic adventure to a far-away land, sample a cuisine which is new to your palette, or seek out an artist whose work you haven't seen before.

Happy, inspiring, and cultured travels to you,

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com

From left to right: Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London; Haw Pha Bang temple, Luang Prabang; Capri ; Shinjuku Nights by Dan Kitchener (2023)

https://www.raffles.com/jaipur/

FROM THE SPANISH CITY OF VALÈNCIA'S ANNUAL BURNING OF GIANT PUPPETS, TO INDIA'S ANCIENT HINDU CELEBRATION OF THE TRIUMPH OF GOOD OVER EVIL, AND THE ULTIMATE PARTY IN AMSTERDAM, HELD IN HONOUR OF THE DUTCH KING'S BIRTHDAY, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ROUNDS UP THE STANDOUT FESTIVALS AND CULTURAL EVENTS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD DURING THE COMING MONTHS

LAS FALLAS

ATTRACTING VISITORS from around the world to the port city of València, which lies on Spain’s southeastern coast, this loud and exuberant celebration, which involves masses of fireworks and the burning of giant puppets, is held in honour of St. Joseph’s Day on 19th March. Las Fallas is believed to have originated in a pagan celebration of the spring equinox, and is first recorded as having been held in the late 15th century.

Each neighbourhood in València funds the construction of its own falla – the wood and papier-mâché sculptures at the heart of the fiesta, which are often 15 metres tall and sometimes poke fun at local and international politicians and celebrities. The fallas are placed at key points around the city, so people can wander around and enjoy them, before they are burned on night of the final day, accompanied by stacks of fireworks. 1-19 March 2025

www.visitvalencia.com

ITB BERLIN

THE WORLD'S LARGEST tourism trade fair may provide the necessary inspiration for your next cultured travelling experience! ITB Berlin is billed as a trip around the globe in a few hours and an opportunity to explore destinations in more than 150 countries. With thousands of exhibitors, ITB can sometimes be a bit testing to navigate, but thankfully it’s made easier by the fair being divided into regions and thematic sections, including responsible tourism, business travel, cultural tourism, adventure travel, medical tourism, travel technology and LGBT+ travel. A map of the exhibition is helpfully available online so that visitors can plan what to see before arriving. This mammoth event often has surprises around every corner, so expect everything from flamenco dancing to henna hand-painting, massages to cooking demonstrations and dance music to folk dancing. For travel industry professionals there are also press conferences, talks, product presentations and networking events. 4-6 March 2025 www.itb-berlin.de

MARKING THE beginning of spring in India, this ancient Hindu ritual is essentially a two-day celebration of the triumph of good over evil. Also known as the ‘Festival of Colours’ due to the bright powder participants throw at each other, the proceedings begin with the lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising how the god Vishnu helped burn the devil Holika, according to Hindu scriptures. The following day, Rangwali Holi is when people delight in covering their neighbours in water and a rainbow of gulal , or paint powder. Apparently, Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, liked to prank village girls in this fashion. While Holi is observed throughout the world, the best places to experience this festival are undoubtedly India and Nepal, especially Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan and Jaipur. 14 March 2025

http://incredibleindia.com

TAGATA HŌNEN MATSURI

HELD ANNUALLY AT THE Tagata Shrine in the city of Komaki, just north of Nagoya in Aichi Prefecture, Hōnen Matsuri is essentially a fertility festival marked every year on the fifteenth of March and watched by worshippers of all ages. In Japanese hōnen means ‘prosperous year’ implying a rich harvest and a matsuri is a festival. The Tagata Shrine is thought to date back 1,500 years and houses a female kami (or ‘god’) which embodies fertility and renewal. The grounds are strewn with phallic-shaped rocks, tastefully arranged amongst shady bushes

and trees, while the shrine itself contains a selection of wooden members of varying sizes. The festival's main event centres on a somewhat lively procession of a two-metre wooden phallus, known as O-owasegata , which is carved annually from white cedar, housed in a mikoshi (portable shrine), and carried to the main shrine on the shoulders of a group of men aged 42. Throughout the procession, sake is freely distributed by cheerful volunteers in close proximity to the main attraction, so it’s wise to walk a few metres away of the giant phallus if you plan to attend this festival!

15 March 2025

SONGKRAN

ORIGINALLY HELD ON DATES that were dependent upon the Thai lunar calendar, Songkran was originally a way for Thai people to sprinkle water on their family members to bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to images of their beloved Buddha. Also known as Thai New Year, Songkran is today commemorated on the same days every year, and has transitioned into a countrywide festival punctuated by friendly water fights and street parties lasting nearly a week. 13-15 April 2025

SNOWBOMBING

OFTEN REFERRED TO AS the ‘Glastonbury of mountain gatherings’ and traditionally held towards the end of the annual European ski season, Snowbombing takes place in the stunning Austrian resort of Mayrhofen in the heart of the Tirol. Boasting breathtaking mountain scenery of the Zillertaler Alps, days are spent skiing, boarding, and enjoying music in mountain-top locations, while feasting on sumptuous spreads and relaxing in saunas and spas. Nights herald a completely different

experience, with cutting-edge performances happening in a host of unique alpine venues, from pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest clearings and mountain stage sets. The DJ line-up for 2025 includes British rock band The Prodigy, which first emerged in the early 1990s and has since achieved worldwide recognition, and American DJ, record producer, remixer and songwriter, Armand Van Helden, who is considered to be one of house music's most revered figures, with a career spanning three decades. 7-12 April 2025 www.snowbombing.com

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL

DATING BACK centuries and symbolic of American West culture, cowboys are synonymous with Texas and California. Even today, from South Texas’ mesquite trees to the Panhandle’s open prairies, there are cowboys hard at work. Every year since 1994, about thirty minutes north of Los Angeles, the city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the world’s biggest annual cowboy gatherings. Staged to celebrate the state of California’s western heritage, family-friendly actionpacked festival routinely attracts thousands of loyal attendees for its multiple live music stages, authentic western activities, trick ropers, gun spinners and magicians, gold panning and hatchet throwing, as well as living history exhibits and an array of stalls selling Western gear. And the festival’s Dutch oven peach cobbler is reputedly so tasty that it has earned a reputation of its own! 12-13 April 2025

www.cowboyfestival.org

ROUKETOPOLEMOS

IT IS PERHAPS IMPLAUSIBLE

to believe that on an idyllic Greek island, one of the most important dates in the Christian calendar is marked in a rather crazy fashion. But this is the case on Chios. On the island’s eastern end, in the small town of Vrontados, many of the residents are ship owners or shipbuilders and legend has it that Christopher Columbus spent time here to learn how to use maritime charts. Other folklore relates that the Greek poet Homer was born or lived near Vrontados. In any event, amidst the olive trees and almond groves of this breezy seaside village are the churches of St. Mark's and Panaghia Ereithiani,

F1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX

A MAINSTAY OF the F1 calendar, the Bahrain race is a highlight of the Grand Prix season, for the atmospheric night-time 57-lap race is held at the famous 5.4-kilometre Grand Prix Track designed by German architect Hermann Tilke, who also designed the Sepang International Circuit in Malaysia. Fans can usually expect great racing and decent amounts of overtaking

built on hilltops around 400 metres apart. Like many proximate parishes around the world, there is a little rivalry between these two houses of worship and their respective congregations. But on Chios this is settled once a year with a rocket war on the night before Greek Easter Sunday, throughout which, as literally thousands of fireworks are being shot between the two, congregants go to church. The origin of Rouketopolemos is unclear, but it apparently dates back to the Ottoman era. The winning village is the one which scores the most direct hits on the other's church! Kelley Rourke.

19 April 2025 www.chios.gr/en

LONDON MARATHON

WHEN 6,747 PEOPLE WERE accepted to run the inaugural London marathon on 29th March 1981, and 6,255 crossed the finish line on Constitution Hill, a sporting phenomenon was born. Since then, the London Marathon Foundation has awarded more than GBP 110 million to projects that inspire activity. The 2025 TCS London Marathon on Sunday 27th April will be the 45th edition of the globally-famous race. World record holder Ruth Chepngetich (Kenya), Olympic silver medallist Tigst Assefa (Ethiopia), and the

in Bahrain, where the drivers have to contend with wind, racing under floodlights and the difficulty of finding a decent set-up within the wide temperature fluctuations between sessions. The track’s most challenging point is the tight, downhill off-camber Turn 10 left-hander. Meanwhile the fast run through Turn 12 is another highlight, allowing drivers to really feel their cars coming alive. 13 April 2025 www.bahraingp.com

surprise 2023 London champion Sifan Hassan (Netherlands) will head the race’s elite women's field. Meanwhile, the men's race includes the secondfastest marathoner in history – the peerless Eliud Kipchoge (Kenya). Even if you're not running, it's worth making the effort to get into the British capital to soak up the atmosphere on London's streets. Live music, food and entertainment line the 26 miles and 385 yards, as well as thousands of spectators cheering on the runners, many of whom, running for charity, are dressed in zany costumes . 27 April 2025 www.londonmarathonevents.co.uk

AFRIKABURN

HELD IN A SEMI-DESERT environment in Tankwa Karoo National Park, in South Africa’s Northern Cape Province, while AfrikaBurn is nowhere near as large as Burning Man, this spectacular festival is the result of the creative expression of participants who gather to create a temporary city of art, themed camps, costume, music and performance, with some of the structures burned towards the end.

28 April - 4 May 2025 www. afrikaburn.com

KONINGSDAG

THE NETHERLANDS’ annual celebration of the monarch’s birthday, known as Koningsdag, or King’s Day, originated in 1885 as Prinsessedag (Princess’s Day) in honour of Princess Wilhelmina, and became Koninginnedag (Queen’s Day) when she ascended the throne. The date shifted to 30 April under Queen Juliana and remained unchanged during Queen Beatrix’s reign, despite her January birthday. In 2013, King Willem-Alexander restored the

WALPURGISNACHT

ALTHOUGH THERE ARE many variations of Witches' Night (Walpurgisnacht), this festival is usually celebrated with dancing and bonfires on 30th April or 1st May in central and northern Europe. It is held exactly six months after All Hallows' Eve, more commonly known as Halloween. And, like Halloween, Walpurgis has its roots in ancient pagan customs, including celebrating the arrival of spring with bonfires at night, since the night of 30th April is halfway between the spring equinox and summer solstice. In Germany, Walpurgisnacht is the night

when the witches gather together at the Hexentanzplatz (witches' dance), from where they fly up as one to Mount Brocken where they convene with the devil. Legend says that evil ghosts represented by cold weather, snow and darkness meet with witches and demons in the Harz mountains. Their sinister cavortings around the fire are said to reunite them with the devil. Whilst this may sound like a load of superstitious nonsense, people from all over Germany head to Blocksberg mountain on 30th April, many dressed as witches, to mark Walpurgisnacht and celebrate the arrival of Spring.

30 April 2025

tradition, when he succeeded his mother as monarch. Today, festivities unfold nationwide, with Amsterdam at the heart of the revelry. Indeed, the capital transforms into an open-air party, as canals brim with orange-clad revellers aboard music-filled boats and live performances abound, while the city's parks host more family-friendly activities. Throughout, the colour orange, a tribute to the House of Orange-Nassau, dominates attire, decorations, and even food and drink.

27 April 2025 www.holland.com

RHEIN IN FLAMMEN

EVERY YEAR, THE picturesque River Rhine in Germany is lit up by dramatic and elaborate firework shows, in five different locations along this great, historic waterway. For onlookers, this multi-faceted event is nothing short of spectacular. Rhein In Flammen (Rhine in flames) kicks-off with the Bonn extravaganza on the first Saturday in May. Held at Rheinauen Park, thousands of fluorescent red Bengal fires light the way downstream for a fleet of

dozens of decorated and illuminated ships along a 26 kilometre stretch – the longest part of any Rhine in Flames spectacle. While many board ships to see the displays from the water and feel more immersed in the incredible pageant, there are plenty of places to watch the fireworks along Bonn’s promenade. Meanwhile along the river's banks, wine festivals attract locals and visitors alike and keep everyone suitably merry late into the night. 3 May 2025 in Bonn www.rhein-in-flammen.com

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL

OVER THE YEARS, THE Brighton Festival has firmly established itself as an annual celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film and literature, as well as a great supporter of the arts. Held annually in the bohemian British seaside city since 1967, the festival is a veritable creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment happenings, including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances. Many of the festival’s events

are specially commissioned and enjoy their first public outings every May. Previous guest directors of this critically acclaimed mixed arts fest have included actress Vanessa Redgrave, artist Anish Kapoor, and cartoonist David Shrigley. This year, the Grammy-nominated sitarist, classical and contemporary musician, composer and activist Anoushka Shankar will be acting as the festival’s guest director, and will lead a huge multi-arts line-up. 3-26 May 2025 www.brightonfestival.org

THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

KNOWN AS THE cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala and rich in history, brimming in cultural heritage and boasting a wealth of archaeological treasures, Thrissur’s annual elephant festival attracts those with a weakness for colourful Indian celebrations that both delight and assault the senses at the same time. In a region in which elephants are a common feature of religious festivities, Thrissur Pooram stands out as an observance that is especially endowed with the presence of these giants which are, of course, the main attraction, decorated with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings. Ornate parasols –carried by the elephant riders on tall bamboo poles – add to the stunning, overall visual feast of it all, complete with fireworks, folk dancing, revelry and plenty of drumming. 5-7 May 2025

www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

Anoushka Shankar

PROCESSIONE DEI SERPARI

ALSO KNOWN AS THE ‘SNAKE FESTIVAL’, Italy’s Procession of Serpents is held in celebration of Saint Domenico, for miraculously removing serpents from farmers' fields in the Italian region of Abruzzo in the 11th century. Every year, the people of the small, medieval town of Cocullo, in the Province of L’Aquila in Abruzzo, catch four types of harmless snakes which are then draped over a wooden statue of Saint Domenico until it is almost completely covered, at which point it is carried through the streets, held high in the centre of a long procession.

1 May 2025

FERIA DE ABRIL

SEVILLE’S MOST well - known festival, The Feria de Abril, or April Fair, traced its origins to 1847, when it began as a livestock market. Over time, it evolved into a grand social event, blending Andalusian traditions with vibrant festivities. Initially held in Prado de San Sebastián, it moved to the purpose-built Real de la Feria in the 1970s, where it remains today. Modern celebrations last a week, beginning with the alumbrao a ceremonial lighting of thousands of bulbs at the fairground entrance.

Rows of casetas privately owned marquees line the streets, hosting gatherings filled with music, dance, and local cuisine. Flamenco-clad sevillanas and elegantly dressed horse riders add to the spectacle. Afternoons feature equestrian parades, while evenings bring energetic performances and amusement rides. Public tents welcome visitors keen to experience the lively atmosphere, ensuring that the occasion remains both a timehonoured tradition and an open invitation to all. 6-11 May 2025 www.visit-andalucia.com

GIRONA FLOWER FESTIVAL

LOCATED IN CATALONIA beside the River Onyar, the historic Spanish city of Girona is best known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter and the Roman remains of Força Vella fortress. But for ten days every year, Girona's buildings, courtyards, monuments and gardens are adorned with more than one hundred somewhat spectacular floral displays and arrangements, staged alongside a programme of traditional Spanish events and culinary happenings. Whole streets become art installations, accompanied by music, lights, fountains and the intoxicating scent of thousands of flowers. Befitting its status and central location on the city’s bustling square of Plaça del Vi, Girona’s town hall always comes up with a well-executed and rather fantastic display. Throughout its flower festival, the wonderful ensembles of striking colours and penetrating aromas that accompany the cultural heritage of this beautiful Catalan city, make Girona a must visit destination. 10-18 May 2025

EUROVISION SONG CONTEST

THANKS TO NEMO notching up a third win for their country in 2024 with The Code , the country where it all started, when Switzerland first won the contest in 1956, will again host the Eurovision in 2025, in St. Jakobshalle, Basel. Often questioned as to whether it is a song contest or in fact a political platform, it will be the 69th edition of the Le Grand-Prix Eurovision de la Chanson Européenne (as the contest is also known), and today the competition is as popular as ever, having gleaned a new generation of followers in recent years. As we went to press, a total of 37 European countries have confirmed their participation in the 2025 Eurovision, including Montenegro, which returns after a two-year absence. 17 May 2025

https://neurovision.tv

HAY FESTIVAL WALES

FOR TEN DAYS ANNUALLY at the end of May, when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny, thousands of literary buffs, young and old alike, descend upon Hay-on-Wye in Wales' beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, essentially to sit and read books. The now world-famous Hay Festival celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, lyricists and comedians, novelists and environmentalists, not to mention the power of great ideas to transform peoples' way of thinking. Hay strives to give everyone from children to professors an opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word. The 2025 edition sports a varied programme, punctuated by a number of events featuring internationally acclaimed novelists with new work. You can also catch British soul and R&B legend Billy Ocean Billy Ocean in concert, performing all of his greatest hits. One of the biggest recording stars Britain has ever produced, Ocean recently released his 40th anniversary album, Suddenly 22 May - 1 June 2025 www.hayfestival.com/wales

THE FRENCH OPEN IS held over two weeks at the Stade Roland-Garros in Paris. It is currently the only Grand Slam tournament in the world on clay. Located at the edge of the Bois de Boulogne and the Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil and named after the French aviator Roland Garros, the venue for the French Open was built in 1928 to accommodate French players' appearances in the Davis Cup. Expanded and updated many times over the years, the stadium today covers 12 hectares and has 18 clay courts, including its Philippe-Chatrier central court which now has a retractable roof and floodlights. This year’s tournament will see Carlos Alcaraz defending the RolandGarros title he won in 2024 by defeating defeating Alexander Zverev in five sets, at the same time making three-surface history to become the youngest man to earn a major trophy on clay, hard, and grass.

19 May - 8 June 2025

www.rolandgarros.com

ROLAND-GARROS

Nemo, Eurovision's 2024 winner

Carlos Alcaraz

CINCO DE MAYO

COMMEMORATING THE MILITARY victory of the Mexicans over the French on 5th May 1862, the festival of Cinco de Mayo is celebrated in the state of Puebla with costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, happy children, mariachi bands, parties and dancing filling the streets. If you happen to be in Puebla for Cinco de Mayo, be sure to sample mole poblano , which is turkey or chicken covered with a deliciously thick green chili sauce. 5 May 2025 www.visitmexico.com

➤ SERENGETI ➤ SANTORINI ➤ PENANG ➤ LOWER HUTT ➤ TOKYO ➤ LAGUNA BEACH ➤ SINGAPORE ➤ COTONOU ➤ SYDNEY ➤ MILAN ➤ JAKARTA ➤ LONDON

SINGITA KILIMA

IN NORTHERN TANZANIA, SPANNING MORE THAN 350,000 acres on the western corridor of the iconic Serengeti ecosystem (which extends into southwestern Kenya), the private Grumeti Reserve is a sanctuary of untamed beauty and exclusivity, offering an intimate glimpse into Africa’s raw, majestic wilderness. Far from the bustling tourist routes, Grumeti is a haven for wildlife, where the drama of the Great Migration unfolds every year and herds of wildebeest and zebra traverse golden plains, shadowed by stealthy predators. The reserve also offers an unmatched sense of tranquillity, its rolling savannahs and acacia-dotted landscapes alive with the timeless rhythm of nature.

Perched atop a secluded hill within this vast wilderness, utterly cocooned by nature, exclusive-use Singita Kilima opened late last year. Sheltered by a forest of ancient trees on a remote hillside overlooking

the Serengeti plains, the property's elevated position offers sweeping views of the reserve, placing guests in the heart of the action whilst being surrounded by serene beauty.

Kilima’s free-spirited aesthetic offers total seclusion, with the added luxury of a front-row seat to the Great Migration. Accommodating up to 10 guests in five beautifully appointed suites, Kimila is perfect for a family or group of friends seeking an elite safari adventure. The architecture features earthy colour palettes and textured patterns, with intimate spaces for guests to savour the surrounding wilderness, as well as an impressive array of private facilities. Synonymous with the renowned Singita experience, a dedicated team of staff, including a field guide, chef, butler, and housekeepers, are on hand to ensure an unforgettable safari experience, tailored to each guest’s specific needs. www.singita.com

head

FROM A NEW EXCLUSIVE USE SAFARI LODGE SET IN THE HEART OF TANZANIA'S SERENGETI, AFFORDING GUESTS FRONT ROW SEATS TO THE GREAT MIGRATION, TO THE GBP 1.5 BILLION SIX-YEAR REIMAGINATION OF LONDON'S STORIED OLD WAR OFFICES, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS INTO A DOZEN RATHER SPECIAL PLACES, AROUND THE WORLD, TO REST YOUR HEAD

CANAVES ENA

WITH ITS DRAMATIC CALDERA AND TRADEMARK whitewashed villages, Santorini has been the jewel of the Cyclades for decades and is a destination that has long captivated travellers. This volcanic island, shaped by a cataclysmic eruption thousands of years ago, is a masterclass in contrasts, with rugged cliffs plunging into the indigo Aegean Sea softened by the golden glow of legendary sunsets. And whilst much of Santorini has embraced the modern traveller, the island still retains its deep connection to its Minoan past, ancient winemaking traditions, and seafaring heritage.

On the island’s northern tip lies Oia, a fishing village turned icon of Cycladic charm. Its labyrinth of narrow streets is adorned with blue-domed churches, sugar-cube houses, and weathered Venetian mansions, all perched precariously on the edge of the caldera. Historically, Oia thrived as a maritime hub, its captains’ houses a testament to its prosperous past, while its architecture reflects both function and a striking harmony with the landscape.

Canaves Collection is a family-owned group of boutique Santorinian hotels founded in the 1980s, all of which are steeped in authentic Greek character and charm. Created by the Chaidemenos family (which was one of the first to introduce tourism to Oia), the group’s flagship property was recently transformed into new-look Canaves Ena, with all of its 18 rooms except one, built into its own cave, set in Oia’s cliffside.

Formerly wine cellars, stables and homes, Canaves Ena’s caves have been reimagined into simple yet heavenly suites, every one of which faces the caldera and is unique in layout and size. And being located just a fiveminute walk from the center of Oia, with direct access to the street, means that guests can explore the village in the morning, before the cruise ships arrive and the village becomes hideously crowded!

www.canaves.com

ICONIC MARJORIE HOTEL

OFTEN REFERRED TO AS THE “PEARL OF THE ORIENT,”

Penang is a captivating blend of cultures, cuisines, and colonial heritage. Situated on the northwest coast of Malaysia, this island-state is renowned for its UNESCO-listed George Town, where shophouses and temples whisper tales of the past amidst a modern, creative vibrancy. Beyond its historical allure, Penang entices with its lush hills, golden beaches, and its reputation as the country's culinary capital, where hawker stalls serve up flavours that linger in the memory long after a trip has ended.

Venture beyond Penang’s well-trodden paths and you’ll uncover neighbourhoods such as Bayan Lepas, located on the city’s southeastern coast. Established in the late 19th century, the area was once a quiet agricultural village known for its pepper plantations and coconut groves. Today, Bayan Lepas is a thriving hub, home to Penang International Airport and Malaysia's first free trade zone, created in 1972. Yet despite its somewhat modern transformation, Bayan Lepas retains a distinct sense of heritage, with pockets of traditional kampung houses and oldworld markets providing a glimpse into its humble beginnings.

Set within the heart of vibrant Bayan Lepas, just a 10-minute drive from the airport, every element of new Iconic Marjorie Hotel has been meticulously crafted to offer a multi-sensory stay experience infused with contemporary Peranakan elegance.

Contained within the first high-rise building in Penang to be awarded a gold rating by the Green Building Index (GBI) and spread across 32 floors, 298 guest rooms including 38 suites offer a tranquil retreat from the bustling metropolis beyond, combining modern amenities with intricate detailing. Guests staying in premium rooms and suites enjoy access to the 24-hour Tiffin Lounge, which offers complimentary all-day refreshments and evening cocktails. And located on the 13th floor, Senses Bar offers panoramic vistas perfect for sundowners at the end of a busy day of exploring.

www iconicmarjorie.com

THE SEBEL WELLINGTON

NESTLED ALONG THE BANKS OF THE HUTT RIVER AND JUST a short drive from Wellington, Lower Hutt offers visitors a delightful introduction to New Zealand’s captivating landscapes and rich history. Part of the Wellington region, this vibrant little city was one of the country’s earliest European settlements, its roots tracing back to the mid-19th century when it served as a hub for industry and trade. Today, Lower Hutt blends its historical significance with a modern appreciation for art, culture, and the great outdoors. Indeed, the Hutt Valley is brimming with outdoor adventures and unmissable experiences.

Surrounded by natural beauty, from the forested trails of the Eastbourne hills to the expansive coastline of Petone, where settlers first arrived, outdoor enthusiasts can take advantage of a wealth of pursuits, from exploring the lush tracks of Belmont Regional Park, to cycling along the scenic Remutaka Rail Trail, and refuelling at Brewtown - a one-stop craft beer hub, containing four breweries and a distillery. And art and history aficionados will enjoy the Dowse Art Museum, renowned for its contemporary exhibitions, and the Petone Settlers Museum, which tells the story of the area’s early European and Māori communities.

Overlooking the Hutt River and centrally located on the High Street in the city centre, stylish new-build 60-room apartment-hotel, The Sebel Wellington, opened last year providing a range of accommodation options to suit every type of traveller. For people who want to stay in the

heart of the city, but avoid the hustle and bustle of Wellington central, the hotel is perfectly located and provides easy access to an array of nature and walking trails.

Fully serviced rooms range from studios to one-bedroom apartments and all include kitchenettes and dining areas. And for those who don’t wish to cook, the hotel's on-site restaurant and pasticceria, Grazie, serves delicious, homemade Italian fare, with fresh pasta, pizza, breads and pastries all made in-house.

www.thesebel.com

The Sebel Wellington

Lower Hutt

THE TOKYO EDITION, GINZA

A ENERGETIC CITY THAT SEAMLESSLY INTERTWINES THE ultra-modern with the timeless, Tokyo is a metropolis that offers something for every traveller. From the neon-lit streets of Shibuya to the tranquil beauty of Meiji Jingū, Tokyo’s kaleidoscope of experiences is everevolving yet deeply rooted in tradition. The city's wide variety of gastronomic offerings, from fine dining restaurants to humble ramen shops, is legendary, while its fashion-forward districts like Harajuku and Omotesando reflect global style trends.

At the heart of the bustling Japanese capital lies affluent Ginza - Tokyo's most prestigious shopping and dining district. Established in the early 17th century, Ginza was originally a centre for the production of silver coins, and its name (derived from the Japanese word for “silver”) reflects this historical significance. By the late 19th century, it had transformed into a commercial hub, with Western influences shaping its architectural and cultural landscape. Today, Ginza is a refined enclave of luxury boutiques, high-end department stores, lauded restaurants, and sophisticated cafés, attracting both international visitors and Tokyo’s elite.

For their second hotel in Tokyo, the EDITION brand and its creator, the American entrepreneur, hotelier and real estate developer, Ian Schrager, once again joined forces with renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma to create a new avant-garde hotel in Ginza. Indeed, The Tokyo EDITION, Ginza has extended the brand’s distinct blend of energy and sophistication to a corner of the city where few luxury hotels ventured before.

With a Japanese-tinged modern brasserie, a multitude of innovative bar concepts, including Japan’s only punch-focused cocktail bar and Ginza’s first natural wine bar, not-to-mention 86 exceptionally spacious rooms and suites, the 14-floor hotel has injected a new generation of luxury into the heart of one of Tokyo’s most desirable destinations. And punctuated by 34 out of the city’s 183 Michelin-starred restaurants, makes Ginza home to the highest concentration of Michelin-listed restaurants in Japan, with the EDITION sitting at the heart of a happening dining scene where a wealth of delicious Japanese cuisines cater to every budget. www.editionhotels.com

CASA LOMA BEACH HOTEL

A CAPTIVATING COASTAL HAVEN IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with seven miles of coastline, Laguna Beach has long drawn visitors with its stunning landscapes, charming village atmosphere, and thriving arts scene. Once an artists’ colony, the town continues to celebrate its creative heritage, with galleries, festivals, and public art installations scattered throughout its streets. The town’s scenic beaches, framed by dramatic cliffs and majestic canyons, offer a serene respite, while its rich history—marked by early Californian influences and Native American roots—adds depth to its appeal. A visit to Laguna Beach promises a harmonious blend of natural beauty and artistic inspiration, with attractions such as the famed Pageant of the Masters and numerous boutique shops offering an authentic local experience.

At the heart of this enchanting resort town, just steps from the shoreline, courtesy of a USD 15 million top-to-toe makeover, what was once the beloved Inn at Laguna Beach has been transformed into the new Casa Loma Beach Hotel.

Influenced not only by the beauty of its clifftop landscape but also a laidback Mallorcan mindset and the vivacity of California’s coastal spirit, the property now provides the perfect base for exploring the artistic and natural wonders of the area, while affording its guests a private, sensual, and understatedly-elegant refuge just steps from Laguna Main Beach, pretty much hiding in plain sight, ensconced by rocks and lush greenery.

Akin to staying at an old friend’s coastal villa, where hospitality feels familial, public spaces are tastefully appointed, evocative of the town’s creative roots, and encourage beachside reflection. Meanwhile the 70 newly-appointed guest rooms, more than half of which feature private balconies or patios and sea views, blend a Mediterranean sensibility with the comforts and colours of the Pacific, complete with custom beds, builtin desks, inviting sofas, and cosseting throws. location. www.casalomalagunabeach.com

ARTYZEN SINGAPORE

A CITY WHERE INNOVATION MEETS HERITAGE, SINGAPORE never ceases to captivate, even for those who think they’ve seen it all! A dynamic interplay of tradition and innovation, the island state balances a rich tapestry of heritage with its gleaming, forward-thinking modernity. Its historic enclaves – from the shophouses of Joo Chiat to the spiritual serenity of Little India – stand in striking contrast to its futuristic skyline, where Marina Bay Sands and Supertrees dominate. But Singapore’s true magic lies in its details: a perfectly brewed kopi in a hawker centre, the scent of frangipani wafting through its green sanctuaries, or the hushed efficiency of award-winning Changi Airport.

Amidst this dynamic metropolis lies Orchard, Singapore’s most prestigious boulevard. While known globally for its luxury shopping, Orchard’s history runs deep. Once a plantation district in the 19th century, it evolved into a vibrant commercial hub in the 20th century. Today, aside from shops, it is also home to cultural landmarks including the National Museum of Singapore, which chronicles the island’s compelling past, and the Istana, the official residence of the President, with its manicured grounds reflecting Singapore’s colonial heritage. Casually strolling through Orchard, one chances upon a harmonious blend of history, culture, and modern refinement.

Located just off Orchard Road close to the city’s botanical gardens, striking new modern 142-room lifestyle hotel, Artyzen Singapore, has been cleverly built on a relatively compact piece of prime real estate, whilst paying homage to the heritage of a mansion that formerly occupied the site and was owned by avid botanist, Tan Hoon Siang. Standing in the same spot today is a beautifully designed statement

tower that resembles a vertical hospitality garden, punctuated by overflowing pockets of planting, trellised greenery, and draping botanicals. First impressions seriously impress, and the building positively beckons guests to enter and explore.

Once inside the hotel, a feeling of warmth is palpable on every floor, courtesy of a lovingly curated blend of heritage, modern luxuries, cultural artefacts, and statement artworks. This aesthetic continues throughout the hotel, right up to a sky garden on the top floor, which commands impressive panoramic vistas of the surrounding cityscape and features a rooftop pool, part of which is glassbottomed and protrudes past the building’s edge, making for a somewhat unique swimming experience.

Ranging from generously proportioned entry-level Deluxe Balcony Rooms of some 45 square metres, to the huge Penthouse Suite, every guest room deftly balances sophistication with warmth, combining polished concrete, herringbone timber, colonial touches and brass accents to create refined, inviting, and intensely comfortable spaces, which function perfectly and provide the perfect base from which to explore Singapore.

Artyzen Singapore is also home to a selection of dining and drinking options, including the rather good one Michelin-starred Quenino by Victor Liong, which celebrates the vibrant culinary diversity of Southeast Asia, courtesy of innovative tasting menus that blend Southeast Asian flavours with subtle Australian influences. www. artyzenhotelsandresorts.com

SOFITEL COTONOU MARINA HOTEL & SPA

LOCATED IN THE SOUTH OF THE COUNTRY ON THE COAST, Cotonou is the bustling economic and cultural heart of Benin and offers an intriguing blend of West African vibrancy and colonial heritage. Situated along the Gulf of Guinea, the city has long been a vital port, historically serving as a gateway for trade, particularly during the height of the transatlantic slave trade. Today, Cotonou is Benin’s largest city and its commercial powerhouse, yet it retains a distinctive charm with its lively markets, palm-fringed beaches, and a dynamic street life that pulses with energy, providing travellers with an off-the-beaten-track destination brimming with cultural treasures.

The city’s cultural fabric is woven with diverse influences, from its rich Fon and Yoruba heritage to its colonial French past. This is reflected in a vibrant arts scene, with local artisans producing intricate sculptures, textiles, and woodwork that adorn the city’s many galleries and markets. Striking colonial-era architecture punctuates the city at every turn. Museums showcase Benin’s cultural treasures. And Cotonou’s central market, the Marche Dantokpa, is one of the largest in West Africa, and offers an array of goods ranging from spices to handmade crafts.

Stylishly combining Beninese culture, French joie de vivre, and first-class hospitality, new Sofitel Cotonou Marina is surrounded by lush parkland, a few steps from the beach on a 29-hectare estate, five minutes’ drive from the airport and a few kilometres from the city centre. Tastefully

celebrating the region’s cultural richness throughout, the hotel features 174 well-appointed rooms and suites furnished with every conceivable luxury. These include five duplex suites, with private pools, for more secluded stays.

Leisure guests are spoiled with five bars and restaurants, multiple swimming pools and tennis courts, a very well-equipped gym, and a sumptuous 1,000 square-metre on-site spa, featuring bespoke rituals and treatments created with premium KOS Paris products. Meanwhile, the hotel’s state-of-the-art entertainment complex is home to a cinema, casino, and bar and nightclub concept, SO Lounge. www.sofitel.accor.com

HOTEL MORRIS

AN ENTICING CITY WHERE STRIKING MODERNITY MEETS DEEP historical roots, Sydney continues to universally captivate with its blend of coastal beauty and urban sophistication. While its iconic harbour and beaches draw much attention, the heart of the city pulses with a cultural vibrancy that reflects both its colonial past and its multicultural present. The Central Business District (CBD) stands at the crossroads of this dynamic city, its streets rich with history and architectural variety, from grand 19th-century buildings to sleek, contemporary edifices.

Within the CBD, visitors can trace the city’s history through landmarks like the Sydney Town Hall, a stately Victorian-era building that stands as a testament to the city’s growth. The State Library of New South Wales, with its impressive dome and quiet reading rooms, offers a peaceful respite not-to-mention a glimpse into the city’s literary heritage. And just a short walk away, Australia's oldest botanical garden provides a tranquil space to reflect on the city’s relationship with nature, while nearby Circular Quay remains a symbol of Sydney’s enduring connection to the sea.

Running through the heart of the CBD, Pitt Street is one of Sydney’s earliest thoroughfares, its roots extending back to the colonial era, when it was part of the city’s initial grid plan. Today, the street retains a sense of old-world charm, woven into the fabric of the modern city.

Built in 1929 and designed in the Inter-War Palazzo style by famed Italian architect, Virgil Dante Cizzio, historic West End Hotel stood at 412 Pitt Street as Australia’s tallest hotel for more than 30 years. Before closing for renovation, the building was a lowly backpacker's hostel. But following an

extensive refurbishment, this Art Deco gem has been re-born as boutique 82-room Hotel Morris, which is part of Accor’s Handwritten Collection. Signage has been sensitively restored to its former glory. Reborn public spaces, hung with Murano chandeliers, deftly blend historic and contemporary design. Stylish guest rooms are decorated in a warming palette of rich ochre and deep reds and are furnished with modernist pieces. And the hotel’s prime location, at the southern end of Sydney’s CBD, puts guests in the heart of everything the city has to offer.

https://hotelmorris.com.au

CASA BRERA

NESTLED IN THE HEART OF LOMBARDY AND RENOWNED for its haute couture boutiques, vibrant nightlife, and happening culinary scene, Italy’s fashion and design capital is also home to some of the world’s most celebrated cultural treasures. From Leonardo da Vinci’s iconic The Last Supper , to the magnificent gothic Duomo and grand renaissance Sforza Castle, the city offers a wealth of artistic and architectural marvels that reflect its storied past.

Located in Milan's historical city centre just a stone’s throw from the iconic Teatro alla Scala, tranquil Piazetta Bossi is a charming and lesserknown square that offers a quiet escape from the bustling streets nearby. Named after the 19th-century architect Luigi Bossi and surrounded by elegant buildings, this small piazetta is the perfect place to pause for a quiet moment during a busy day of sightseeing or shopping.

Recently opened, new Luxury Collection hotel, Casa Brera, occupies a carefully restored 1950s Rationalist building in Piazetta Bossi, harmoniously blending Milanese heritage with sophisticated design and cosmopolitan hospitality flair, courtesy of Spanish architect and interior designer, Patricia Urquiola.

101 elegantly designed guest rooms, including 15 suites, reflect the spirit of Milanese art, culture, and design, utilising beautiful woods, marble and granite to create contemporary accommodations that are elegant and timeless. Larger rooms feature modular Poliform furniture, cosy seating, custom artworks, and a smooth continuity between the sleeping area and bathroom. At the top end, individually-designed signature suites offer

stylish apartment-like living in the heart of Milan, complete with large terraces made for entertaining.

Downstairs, the hotel’s culinary direction is guided by acclaimed Michelin-starred chef, Andrea Berton, who curates the gastronomic offerings in all-day-dining Living lounge, Italian fine-dining Scena restaurant, which is focused on authentic and innovative Milanese cuisine, and Etereo skybar and restaurant on the top floor, which offers guests magnificent panoramic 360-degree vistas across Milan, complete with an outdoor pool and terraces furnished with sunbeds and sofas. www.casabrera.com

25HOURS HOTEL THE ODDBIRD

THE VIBRANT CAPITAL OF INDONESIA, JAKARTA IS A sprawling metropolis where modernity thrives amidst deeprooted tradition. A gateway to the country’s rich cultural diversity, despite its rapid development, Jakarta retains its soul through its many landmarks, lively arts scene, and the warmth of the Indonesian people. From bustling street markets and historic neighbourhoods, to gleaming skyscrapers and sophisticated dining, the city offers a kaleidoscope of experiences for the seasoned traveller, and, as one explores, it reveals layers of history and contemporary life in a dynamic fusion.

Nestled in the southern part of Jakarta, the green garden district of Senopati lies between the Sudirman Central Business District and the residential enclave of Kemang. Historically, it was once a quiet suburban neighbourhood, but over the past two decades, it has been transformed into a cultural and culinary hotspot. Today the area is a mosaic of trendy cafes, chic boutiques, art galleries, and gourmet restaurants, drawing a cosmopolitan crowd of locals and visitors alike.

Standing above Ashta Mall in the heart of Senopati, 25hours Hotel The Oddbird rises 38 floors encompassing 210 rooms, 135 serviced apartments, 11 creative lounges, a ballroom, and three restaurants and bars, all blending the city’s rich history with modern aesthetics. Interiors feature a fun and eclectic mix of original vintage mid-century pieces and contemporary furniture, including mismatched chairs and handcrafted tables with intricate Indonesian patterns, and curated local and international art. Together, these elements create an inviting, story-filled vibe, evoking nostalgia and creating a comfortable starting point for expeditions into the city.

Upstairs, urban or garden inspired rooms blend lush jungle and retro styles, come in a variety of sizes, and feature panoramic views over Jakarta's skyline. The largest “Gigantic Garden” rooms offer separate bed and living rooms with spacious seating areas and floor-to-ceiling windows. Crowing the hotel is a spa, gym, and rooftop pool complete with cabanas for relaxing.

https://25hours-hotels.com

RAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO

IF WALLS COULD TALK, THOSE OF LONDON’S OLD WAR Office would make a remarkable dinner party guest. Beguiling, elegant, and steeped in history, the Old War Office bore witness to some of the most important events of the last century. It was here, at the intersection of Whitehall and Horse Guards Avenue in the heart of Westminster, that wartime leaders like Sir Winston Churchill and Earl Kitchener shaped the course of modern history. Today, this vast building is home to Raffles London at The OWO, the first UK property from a hospitality brand that’s no stranger to celebrating the heritage of storied properties.

After a six-year renovation and GBP 1.5 billion investment from the Hinduja family and co-owner ONEX, The OWO is home to 120 guest rooms and suites and 85 private apartments, as well as nine restaurants, three bars, and a spectacular subterranean Guerlain Spa. The original Edwardian Baroque exterior designed by Scottish architect William Young remains unchanged and most of the interiors

have been faithfully restored to their former glory. Stepping through the building’s western entrance, guests are greeted by a porter in full-length cape and the spectacle of the grand central staircase, where impassioned arrivals and dramatic exits have played out for almost 120 years. Overhead and representing unity, a chandelier made of 3,085 pieces of Venetian glass, by Italian studio iDOGI, hangs as a symbol of peace in a building where wars were managed, and is part of The OWO’s extensive art collection.

Two and a half miles of labyrinthine corridors — once patrolled by an army of bicycle messengers — are today lined with crimson red carpets and curtains that echo the uniforms worn by the Royal Horse Guards across the street. The original black and white mosaic floor has been painstakingly remade after years of degradation thanks to a rather charming tradition: at the end of their tenure former employees of the Old War Office were permitted to pry off two tiles and turn them into cufflinks.

Among the 120 guest rooms reimagined by the late French designer and architect Thierry Despont, the 34 suites exude grandeur, enhanced by detailing that roots each in the building’s history. The Ministerial Suite occupied by The Cultured Traveller features an original painting by T. E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia), created shortly after his secondment at the Old War Office.

Of the nine dining venues at The OWO, the hotel's signature restaurant is one Michelin-starred Mauro Colagreco and Mauro’s Table, helmed by the eponymous Argentine chef, whose Mirazur restaurant in Menton holds three Michelin stars.

Leisurely libations are poured in the oak-panelled surrounds of The Guards Bar and Lounge, a svelte snug with red leather seating and parquet floors. As well as the London Sling — a distinctly British take on the Singapore original — the cocktail list includes eight Raffles signature creations based on the component flavours of a Singapore Sling; a liquid tasting menu (GBP 160 for eight mini cocktails), and an exquisite pairing of Louis XIII cognac and caviar. True to the setting, the menu is peppered with quotes from writers and statesmen, including James Bond creator, Ian Fleming. And downstairs, the top-secret reservationonly Spy Bar claims to mix the best martini in London.

Deeper below London's streets, the hotel's Guerlain Spa is a palatial, four-floor sanctuary offering treatments fashioned by the Parisian perfume house, personalised wellness programming courtesy of Pillar Wellbeing, and a magnificent 20-metre swimming pool. Soothing treatments start with a balm of wild herbs and bergamot, and conclude with serene moments in the relaxation room.

From the tips of its four corner turrets to the depths of its basement levels, Raffles London at The OWO embodies the grand eloquence of 20th century architecture and the refined elegance for which Raffles is known. A living museum where every room tells a story and secrets lay hidden behind every doorway, this impressive building is an intrinsic part of modern British history and an invaluable addition to Westminster’s luxury hotel landscape. www.raffles.com/london

spend four days surrounded by nature at swissôtel uludag bursa

OPEN YEAR-ROUND,

Swissôtel Uludag Bursa is a tranquil mountain retreat and luxury wellness spa surrounded by fragrant pines in the beautiful Kirazliyayla Forest, located in Turkey’s Bursa region, which is famed for its stunning natural beauty.

Set midway up Mount Uludağ at a comfortable altitude of 1,500 metres, and housed within a cluster of immaculately restored 1940s heritage buildings designed by two celebrated Turkish architects, the 173-room five-star property, including 50 suites, welcomes guests with an abundance of natural daylight and lush botanicals, together with the warm, genuine hospitality for which Swissôtel is famous. Soothingly elegant, every guest room and suite is something of a sanctuary, equipped with modern technology and every comfort needed for a relaxing spa break.

Swissôtel Uludağ Bursa focuses on vitality and rejuvenation, with a holistic approach to mental and physical renewal, fitness, and well-being, and offers a diverse range of elevated treatments and wellness experiences infused with the vibrancy of the destination, including meditation, yoga, detox and dietary programs. Meanwhile guests enjoy delicious, sustainable cuisine, featuring flavourful dishes lovingly crafted from fresh, locally-sourced seasonal ingredients. https://all.accor.com

LUANG PRABANG LAOS

a city tiptoeing through time

A GUARDIAN OF TRADITION AND MONASTIC PAGEANTRY, TUCKED INTO NORTHERN LAOS AT THE CONFLUENCE OF THE MEKONG AND NAM KHAN RIVERS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU IS BEGUILED BY THE FORMER LAOTIAN ROYAL CAPITAL, WHICH UNIQUELY BALANCES THE SACRED AND THE COLONIAL, THE LAO AND THE EUROPEAN, THE TRADITIONAL AND THE PRESENT PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARIN HUSAIN

THERE ARE VERY FEW PLACES LEFT in the world, where time is measured not in minutes or hours but in the slow turning of the seasons, the rhythm of monks’ gentle footsteps at dawn, and the languid drift of rivers bending through the hills. An exquisite, unspoilt yet softly timeworn jewel at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, the former Laotian royal capital of Luang Prabang is one such place. It is a city of mist-laced mornings and golden twilight, where saffron-robed monks move in silent processions, the past lingers in temple courtyards and beneath the slatted eaves of imposing wooden houses, an air of quiet reverence permeates every brick-cobbled lane, and streets are punctuated by charming colonial-era architecture and striking temples at every turn.

Tucked into northern Laos, Luang Prabang has a way of pulling visitors into its rhythm, slowing one’s pulse and sharpening one’s senses, and it’s not long before I feel the stillness, calm, and a unique hush that seems to emanate from the earth itself. Completely devoid of traffic signals, it is a city that refreshingly feels removed from the unsettled and fast-paced modern world not entirely untouched by time, but cradling it, trying hard to preserve it, wearing it with grace, and allowing visitors to experience its multitudinous charms.

A CITY OF RIVERS AND KINGS

Luang Prabang’s story begins in the ebb and flow of the mighty Mekong, a wide, latté-coloured river that has long been much more than a waterway, for it is the lifeblood of Laos, a conduit for trade, a source of sustenance, and a mirror of history. It was along this great artery that early Lao civilisations flourished, and by the 14th century, Luang Prabang had risen as the heart of the Lan Xang kingdom, known for centuries as “The Land of a Million Elephants.” Here, kings ruled under the divine glow of Buddhism, their temples rose in intricate splendour, and the city became a beacon of faith and a centre of culture.

Draped in monarchical pageantry and shrouded in spiritual significance, Luang Prabang remained the capital of Laos for centuries. But history, ever restless, saw power shift to Vientiane in the 16th century. Luang Prabang, left as a small principality in relative seclusion, then became a guardian of tradition rather than a political player, its isolation perhaps the very thing that remarkably kept its essence intact for us to enjoy today.

GOLDEN SPIRES AND WEATHERED WOOD

Wander through Luang Prabang and the layers of its history unfold in architecture that chronicles stories of both splendour and quiet resilience. The cityscape is an intricate dance between the sacred and the colonial, the Lao and the European, the traditional and the present. There are more than 30 temples, their gilded roofs catching the light like fire at sunset and their mosaic-clad walls shimmering with celestial tales, every one erected by a different monarch through the ages,

The dawn giving and receiving of alms

and each telling a different, fascinating tale. Chief among them is Wat Xieng Thong, meaning "Temple of the City of Flame Trees", which was constructed between 1559 and 1560 by King Setthathirath, during the golden era of the Lan Xang kingdom. With its nine, distinctive, pagoda-style cascading roofs, gold stencilled decorations, and glass tile murals, Wat Xieng Thong is Luang Prabang's religious emblem and one of the country's oldest temples.

Another aspect to Luang Prabang’s enchanting aesthetic is a remnant of French Indochina’s imprint. Faded, shuttered mansions stand shoulder to shoulder with wooden Lao homes, their facades softened by the patina of time. Some of these houses have been lovingly restored, while others are boardedup, and some are on the verge of collapse but somehow still manage to provide shelter. And dotted throughout the city, grand colonial-era buildings, their ochre walls dappled with bougainvillaea, house art galleries and cafés, their past lives as administrative offices or trading houses almost forgotten. This juxtaposition of Lao tradition and European influence gives

the city a singular character old-world Indochina at its most evocative and appealing.

A MONASTIC HEARTBEAT

For all its charm and history, I soon discover that it is the spiritual pulse of Luang Prabang that defines its soul. Every temple is a quiet sanctuary where golden Buddhas sit in meditation, incense curls in the air, and murals whisper ancient stories to those who take the time to pause and look. The city is peppered with so many of them, that rarely is any temple busy, and, if it is, there is almost certainly another quieter one close by. But the most sacred ritual unfolds not within the city’s temple walls, but throughout Luang Prabang at dawn.

Every morning at just after 6am, as the first light stains the sky pink, lines of monks some just young boys, others men whose faces carry the wisdom of decades walk barefoot through the city, collecting alms from the faithful. The act is simple, almost silent. A flick of the wrist as a handful of sticky rice is placed into a waiting bowl. A murmured blessing.

wander through luang prabang and the layers of its history unfold in architecture that chronicles stories of both splendour and quiet resilience

Haw Pha Bang temple

Fruit is popped in an open bag. And then they move on, vanishing into the hush of the morning, leaving behind only footprints and a lingering sense of something ancient, something unbroken. The giving and receiving of alms happens every morning in Luang Prabang, 365 days per year.

LUANG PRABANG’S SOUL: ITS PEOPLE

To step into Luang Prabang is not only to enter a city of mistcloaked hills and stilted wooden houses, but to encounter a people whose presence shapes the very atmosphere of the place. There is a quiet grace to the Laotian spirit, a gentleness that lingers in every greeting, in the unhurried cadence of daily life. Nowhere in the country is this more evident than in Luang Prabang, where warmth is not an affectation but an intrinsic part of being. Young monks move through the morning streets with bare feet against cool stone, their gestures measured and serene; fishermen along the river’s edge, cast their nets with patient precision, as if each ripple holds an unspoken story; elders sit on shaded porches, their smiles slow and knowing, as if they have all the time in the world. Even the simplest of exchanges ¯ such as a - cup of tea offered with both hands, or a murmured “sabaidee” accompanied by a soft nod are infused with an unspoken kindness and a quiet generosity. It is a city that does not rush and does not raise its voice, but instead welcomes all with a stillness that lingers, inviting those who arrive to move through its streets not as tourists, but as guests in an ancient and unhurried world.

VILLAGES WITHIN THE CITY

Luang Prabang’s main thoroughfare, Sisavangvong Road, also known as "Foreigners Street", was straightened and made level by the colonial French. So today, most of the shops, houses and buildings that line the road are either higher or lower, with steps up or down to their entrances. Either side of Sisavangvong, villages and neighbourhoods which were formerly specialised craft and food centres, have been absorbed

Haw Pha Bang temple

luang prabang has a way of pulling visitors into its rhythm, slowing one’s pulse and sharpening one’s senses

Sisavangvong Road

into the city over time, placing quaint lanes, tree-lined alleys and inviting houses within a few steps of the city’s main thoroughfare. This is part of Luang Prabang’s uniqueness, so be sure to set aside time to get lost amongst the city's hidden architectural gems, cute cafés, and veiled monasteries and gardens. With the Mekong meandering along the lower edge of the city, and Sisavangvong and Sakkaline roads running parallel, you will always find your way home in Luang Prabang.

FLAVOURS OF THE LAOTIAN LAND

Of the many, Xieng Moine neighbourhood is almost certainly the most charming in its human scale and lack of over decoration. Modest, unpretentious, and simply delightful to spend a few hours ambling around, a great fire at the end of the 19th century destroyed large parts of the village, so most of what you see today is well-preserved early 20th century. The municipal office in charge of the area's conservation has been very sensitive to architecture and preserving the urban

landscape, so numerous quiet and atmospheric areas abound away from the main street. And in Xieng Moine lane you’ll find a rare surviving example of a pre-colonial Lao style aristocratic mansion - Heuan Chan Heritage - together with some lovely little shops and restaurants. These include Asian gastrobar Lost in Baan, which is set within a restored 1960s house designed in a Vietnam war style with American influences. https://lostinbaan.com

FLAVOURS OF THE LAOTIAN LAND

If Luang Prabang is a city of serenity, its cuisine is a reflection of its deep connection to the land. Here, food is not just sustenance but an extension of culture, a bond between people and place. The flavours of Laos are woven through the meals: the fragrance of lemongrass drifting from a steaming broth, the smokiness of river fish grilled over an open flame, and the satisfying bite of sticky rice, which is the heart of every meal.

A Historic Prince’s Residence,

Step into a storied past at the former residence of Prince Souvanna Phouma, where heritage meets homely comforts. Nestled in the heart of Luang Prabang, Homm Souvannaphoum Luang Prabang is a home away from home, surrounded by history and the warmth of Laotian hospitality.

Your Luang Prabang getaway awaits hommhotels.com

Phone: +856 71 254 609

Email: reservations-luangprabang@hommhotels.com

What sets Luang Prabang’s culinary landscape apart is its respect for tradition. Ingredients are foraged from the surrounding forests, plucked from the banks of the Mekong, or cultivated in fertile river valleys. Herbs are used with precision, each leaf and root selected not just for taste, but for balance and harmony. Local meals are shared and tied to ritual and custom. In a world where food trends come and go, here, the old ways endure.

Of the many modern eateries in the city, cute Villa Puck Luck in Ban Vatnong serves tasty, authentic Thai food at bargain prices @villapuckluckrestaurantguesthouse , while enchanting Little Lao Culture Bar serves traditional Lao cuisine made from fresh seasonal ingredients bought daily in the local market, and delectable hand-crafted cocktails, each with a story to tell @little.lao.culture.bar.

GUARDIANS OF THE PAST, STEWARDS OF THE FUTURE

Despite its deep ties to history, Luang Prabang is not a museum, nor is it completely frozen in time. Tiptoeing through time, yes. It is a living, breathing city, trying to adapt while

fiercely protecting its heritage. Conservation efforts, led in part by UNESCO since the city’s World Heritage designation in 1995, have ensured that development does not overshadow tradition. But the city’s true custodians are its people ¯ the artisans who continue to weave silk using techniques passed down for generations, the monks who maintain the temples with quiet devotion, the elders who share their stories with the next generation, and curators of the city’s traditions, such as French historian Francis Engelmann, who has lived in Luang Prabang for 25 years, and Laotian fabric specialist, Linda McIntosh, who owns gorgeous Asiama Galerie www.asiama.fr. It is the efforts of these people, together with the local Ministry of Culture, that keep Luang Prabang’s spirit alive, ensuring that the city’s essence remains undiluted, even as the modern world drifts ever closer.

LANTERNS ON THE WATER: A CITY CELEBRATES

Though Luang Prabang is a place of deep tranquillity, its calendar is punctuated by moments of extraordinary festivity,

Sisavangvong Road

Heuan Chan Heritage

to witness luang prabang from a boat on the mekong is to see the city as it has been for centuries ‒ softened by haze, crowned by distant hills, and reflected in the unhurried tide of a river that seems to hold the secrets of empires and lost worlds

perhaps none more luminous than the twin celebrations of Bun Ok Pansa and Lai Heua Fai.

As the rains retreat and the rivers swell with the season’s last downpours, the city prepares for a spectacle both spiritual and spectacular. Bun Ok Pansa marks the end of Buddhist Lent, a time of reflection for monks who have spent the preceding three months in monastic retreat. But with the final prayers come a transformation, the solemnity gives way to celebration, and Luang Prabang’s temples come alive with hundreds of lanterns and lights fashioned by the monks' hands.

Lai Heua Fai, the city's fire boat festival, follows as night falls. After a procession along Sisavangvong Road which ends at Wat Xieng Thong, elaborate boats made from bamboo and paper, adorned with candles and lanterns, are blessed before being set alight and launched on the Mekong. The flames dance on the water’s surface and their reflections stretch into the darkness. And whilst there is a hushed reverence in the air, quietly beneath it, the faces of families gathered on riverbanks are lit by the golden glow, as Luang Prabang once again surrenders to its timeless rhythm of devotion, remembrance, and celebration.

A MEKONG DUSK

To witness Luang Prabang from a boat on the Mekong is to see the city as it has been for centuries softened by haze, crowned by distant hills, and reflected in the unhurried tide of a river that seems to hold the secrets of empires and lost worlds. At sunset, longboats drift into the current, their wooden hulls creaking as lanterns flicker against polished teak. The sky, once pale and delicate, deepens into a symphony of amber, vermilion, and indigo, the last traces of daylight dissolving into the horizon. Along the banks, fishermen pull in their nets, the rhythmic splash of water breaking the evening’s quiet. A temple bell tolls somewhere beyond the tree-lined shore, its echo rippling across the water. There is no rush and absolutely no urgency ¯ only the Mekong’s eternal passage and a constant reminder, that in Luang Prabang, time moves at its own pace.

A CITY UNLIKE ANY OTHER

Luang Prabang does not dazzle with skyscrapers or pulse with the energy of an urban sprawl. In fact, the city does not demand attention, at all. Instead, it unfolds gently, revealing itself in moments a temple door left ajar, offering a glimpse of candlelight flickering before a golden Buddha; the scent of woodsmoke curling through the dusk; the lull of the Mekong as it carries the stories of centuries past. It is a place where history is not confined to books but lingers in the air, where the past and present exist in quiet equilibrium. To visit Luang Prabang is to step, if only briefly, into a world where time moves differently, where tradition is not nostalgic but a way of life, and where beauty is found not in grandeur, but in the delicate, unspoken poetry of an ancient city that refuses to be forgotten. www.tourismluangprabang.org

FREE THE BEARS

NESTLED IN A GORGEOUS MOUNTAIN VALLEY, 30 MINUTES’ drive from the city centre, close to rural Baan Nong Tok village, no trip to Luang Prabang is complete without having a private tour of multi-species Luang Prabang Wildlife Sanctuary, to learn about the issues faced by wild bears, and the worthwhile work not-for-profit charity, Free The Bears, is doing to rescue them from cages, and provide them with a life free from pain and misery.

Amongst others, the sanctuary is home to moon bears and sun bears, both targeted for their bile and body parts. Most arrive traumatised after years of confinement, their natural instincts suppressed by neglect. Now, within spacious enclosures designed to encourage exploration, they climb, forage, and bathe in pools – simple freedoms long denied. Specialised veterinary teams oversee their rehabilitation, ensuring each animal receives the nourishment and medical attention needed to rebuild strength.

Beyond rescue efforts, the sanctuary plays a vital role in conservation. Community outreach and education programmes promote awareness of wildlife protection, helping to reduce demand for bear products. Research initiatives contribute valuable data on welfare and rehabilitation, supporting wider efforts to protect these threatened species. The facility also provides care for other rescued animals, reinforcing its commitment to ending exploitation across Laos.

Every visit to the sanctuary directly funds the charity’s mission, supporting rescues, medical treatment, and enrichment activities that enhance the bears’ well-being. By choosing ethical wildlife experiences, visitors become part of a movement dedicated to protecting these remarkable creatures, and Free the Bears is rewriting the future for animals once trapped in suffering. https://freethebears.org

Mary, a sun bear at Luang Prabang Wildlife Sanctuary

MANDALAO ELEPHANT CONSERVATION

LOCATED APPROXIMATELY 20 KILOMETRES FROM LUANG

Prabang city center, where the Nam Khan River carves a winding path through jungle-clad hills, MandaLao Elephant Conservation stands as a sanctuary of compassion. This extraordinary refuge offers a future for elephants once burdened by logging and tourism, replacing hardship with dignity and care.

Unlike conventional sanctuaries, MandaLao rejects rides and performances, instead fostering meaningful encounters between visitors and these intelligent creatures. Here, elephants roam freely, guided only by experienced mahouts who understand their complex needs. Guests walk alongside them, observing natural behaviour in an environment where kindness replaces control.

Yet the organisation’s work extends far beyond daily care. Rescued elephants, many bearing the scars of labour, receive expert veterinary treatment

and nourishing diets that restore strength. Conservationists collaborate with local communities, ensuring traditional knowledge supports modern welfare practices. By protecting surrounding forests and promoting ethical tourism, MandaLao safeguards not only the elephants but also their fragile habitat.

Every visit directly funds MandaLao's mission. Contributions support rescue efforts, medical care, and sustainable projects that reduce humanwildlife conflict. Education plays a crucial role – school outreach programmes inspire future generations to protect Laos’s most iconic species. Offering something rare, MandaLao is a sanctuary where elephants are neither entertainers nor commodities but respected beings with stories of resilience. Here, amongst ancient trees and quiet waters, the past is gently rewritten, one peaceful step at a time.

https://mandalao.org

ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG

HIDDEN FROM THE ROAD AMONGST EMERALD FOLDS, Rosewood Luang Prabang is a masterpiece of refined hospitality indulgence, seamlessly woven into the lush jungle that surrounds it. A mere 15-minute drive from the UNESCO-listed heart of Luang Prabang and 20-minutes from the airport, this exquisite boutique retreat reinterprets the romance of French-Indochinese heritage with an artistry that feels almost dreamlike. Here, nature and design are not just complementary but symbiotic, each enhancing the other in a composition of rare elegance.

Crafted by the visionary designer and landscaper, Bill Bensley, the hotel is an ode to colonial nostalgia, tempered by the rich traditions of Laos. Its design is a symphony of teakwood, silk, and antique brass, evoking an era when explorers and poets sought inspiration in the mysteries of Southeast Asia. The main building, a grand yet intimate structure, gazes over a meandering stream, its breezy verandas and shuttered windows recalling a time when

The Great House

the world moved at a gentler pace. Hidden brick pathways lead to 23 lovingly designed rooms, suites, and villas, some perched on the forested hillside, others appearing to float serenely beside cascading waters. Within, intricately carved furnishings, handwoven textiles, and vintage curios tell a story of far-flung journeys and artistic devotion, and offer guests every creature comfort.

The beautiful gardens are a spectacle in themselves – an orchestration of tropical abundance. Towering palms cast delicate shadows over vibrant frangipani, while orchids cling to ancient trees with quiet defiance. Beneath this canopy, an ever-present symphony of birdsong and rustling leaves creates an atmosphere of utter serenity. A private waterfall tumbles through the estate, its crystalline descent harmonising with the sound of trickling streams criss-crossed by quaint wooden bridges.

In every detail, Rosewood Luang Prabang embodies a deep reverence for place, its beauty unfolding in layers of local craftsmanship coupled with nature’s own artistry. It is not merely a hotel but a reverie – a truly timeless retreat where the past lingers in the flicker of lantern light and the scent of rain-kissed earth, providing discerning travellers with a luxe base from which to explore Laos' former royal capital.

https://rosewoodhotels.com

Elephant Bridge Bar

Riverside Villa

THE ROYAL SUITE

➤ B Ü RGENSTOCK RESORT, LAKE LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND

suite envy a timeless hospitality icon above the clouds

HIGH ABOVE LAKE LUCERNE, WHERE THE CRISP ALPINE AIR MEETS A LEGACY OF REFINEMENT, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU STEPS INTO THE RESORT’S PREMIER ONE-OF-A-KIND SUITE, WHERE A WORLD OF HUSHED OPULENCE UNFOLDS, AND TIMELESS ELEGANCE AND CONTEMPORARY LUXURY CONVERGE IN PERFECT ACCORD

THERE ARE PROBABLY VERY FEW places in the world where nature, hospitality and luxury intertwine so seamlessly as they do at Bürgenstock. A pinnacle of alpine majesty, perched high above the tranquil waters of Lake Lucerne, this legendary resort commands one of Switzerland’s most breathtaking panoramas. Here, the drama of the Alps unfolds in every direction, their rugged peaks softened by shifting veils of mist, while the glassy surface of the lake below reflects an ever-changing sky.

THE JOURNEY ITSELF IS PART OF THE enchantment. Whether arriving by catamaran from Lucerne and ascending via the historic funicular, or winding through forested mountain roads as I did, cossetted by the hotel's 6.3 litre dark blue Bentley Flying Spur, the transition from the everyday world to one of rarefied serenity is immediate. This is a place where the air is crisp, the silence profound, and the sense of escape absolute. Though only a short distance from Switzerland’s cultural heartland, Bürgenstock feels like a world apart – a secluded realm suspended between sky and water, where time slows and the soul expands. And it is palpable immediately I check-in.

A LEGACY ETCHED IN STONE

Bürgenstock’s story begins in the late 19th century, when Swiss entrepreneurs Franz Josef Bucher and Josef Durrer envisioned a retreat unlike any other. Drawn by the

region’s sublime natural beauty, they embarked on an ambitious project, hewing their vision into the very rock of the mountain. In 1873, the Grand Hotel Bürgenstock welcomed its first guests, setting a new standard for alpine hospitality.

With its sweeping terraces and stately façades, the hotel swiftly became a destination for European aristocracy, who journeyed here in pursuit of fresh air, restorative landscapes, and the discreet sophistication of Swiss service. Over the decades, the resort expanded, each addition enhancing rather than altering its essence. The arrival of the funicular in 1888 transformed access to the mountaintop, and soon, Bürgenstock had established itself as a sanctuary of refined indulgence, where seclusion and grandeur existed in somewhat splendid equilibrium.

A RETREAT FOR THE WORLD’S LUMINARIES

It was not long before Bürgenstock’s discreet charms caught the attention of the world’s most illustrious figures. Throughout the 20th century, the resort became a haven for those whose – were otherwise illuminated by the public gaze. Royalty, statesmen, and cultural icons sought solace in its quiet corridors, drawn to its unassuming elegance and the unspoken promise of discretion.

Audrey Hepburn, entranced by the tranquillity of the Swiss mountains, not only frequented the resort but also chose to marry Mel Ferrer in the charming chapel nestled within the estate. Sophia Loren and ➤

Lounge, Royal Suite

Carlo Ponti made it their home for a time, residing in a villa that overlooked the vast expanse of the lake.

Charlie Chaplin, a connoisseur of both privacy and beauty, found in Bürgenstock the perfect retreat from the weight of global adulation. Even political figures, from heads of state to visionary leaders, have found respite here, drawn by the resort’s hushed luxury and its location close to the heart of Europe, yet blissfully removed from its intrigues. At Bürgenstock, influence and renown melted into the Alpine air, leaving only the individual, free to wander the woodland paths or simply gaze out over the water, uninterrupted.

AN ERA OF GILDED GLAMOUR

The mid-20th century marked the resort’s most dazzling epoch. As the world emerged from the shadows of war, a new era of optimism and indulgence unfolded. Bürgenstock, with its poised architecture and rarefied charm, became a stage for this renaissance of elegance.

The resort’s terraces brimmed with the effortless glamour of the international jet set – ladies in silk scarves and sunglasses, gentlemen in crisp tailoring, champagne glasses catching the light of enchanting sunsets. It was a place where conversations unfolded in a murmur of languages, where film stars and ➤

Dining Room, Royal Suite

industrialists mingled beneath chandeliers, and where the sheer drama of the landscape served as the ultimate backdrop to lives lived at the height of refinement.

Unlike the ostentation of the Riviera or the glitzy allure of Hollywood, Bürgenstock’s appeal lay in its understated grandeur. Here, wealth did not shout – it whispered, woven into the fabric of a resort that prized discretion above spectacle. Those who arrived were not seeking an audience; they sought only the serenity of a retreat that held the world at arm’s length, allowing them to slip into a life of quiet yet unadulterated splendour, their every whim catered to at a flash.

A RENAISSANCE IN THE CLOUDS

As the years passed, the world changed, and Bürgenstock – though never forgotten – retreated into a more subdued existence. Its legend remained intact, its spirit undimmed, but time had left its mark. Then came the vision to restore it, not simply to its former glory, but to something beyond – a reinvention that would honour its past while embracing the future.

The transformation was meticulous. Every stone, every pathway, every architectural detail was reimagined with a reverence for history and a commitment to modernity. The result was a resurrection that did not erase the past but rather enhanced it, breathing new life into spaces that had witnessed generations of elegance.

TODAY,

BÜRGENSTOCK IS ONCE AGAIN AT THE forefront of European luxury, and is an enclave where history and contemporary refinement exist in seamless harmony. The grandeur of its early years remains, but now it is interwoven with a modern sensibility, coupled with an appreciation of space, of stillness, and, most importantly, of a luxury that is defined not by excess but by experience. And at the heart of this rarefied retreat lies the pinnacle of its guest accommodations – a oneof-a-kind suite, perched atop the property, embodying the very essence of Bürgenstock’s legacy. ➤

Lounge, Royal Suite

Office, Royal Suite

BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT'S ROYAL SUITE

Occupying a large part of the hotel's seventh floor, Bürgenstock’s Royal Suite is a masterstroke of contemporary alpine luxury, spanning some 308 square metres. Designed by Rüssli Architekten AG, Lucerne, and MKV Interior Design, London, the suite embraces a

philosophy where nature takes centre stage, its interiors deftly crafted to frame the breathtaking Lake Lucerne vistas that unfold through walls of panoramic floor-toceiling windows. Indeed, my first sight of them literally stop me in my tracks, and during my stay, the plush surroundings routinely play second fiddle to what is unfolding outside.

IN EVERY ROOM AND INTERCONNECTED SPACE

– which flow seamlessly from one to the other – it is evident that every detail has been meticulously curated to create a sanctuary of restrained opulence. American walnut parquet flows underfoot, meeting walls of raw Greek quartz. A double-sided fireplace is the centerpiece of a vast living space, and lends a sense of warmth to the huge room, which is filled with an array of oversized sofas and plush armchairs. This is perhaps why the suite was home to Kamala Harris during the June 2024 Summit on Peace in Ukraine, held at Bürgenstock.

At one end of the lounge, a polished black Steinway grand takes centre stage, and doors open onto a massive rooftop terrace, offering an unparalleled vantage point over the shimmering lake and the surrounding mountains. An al fresco space where nature and luxury converge, the terrace is the perfect place for relaxing in the sun, or hosting a soirée. At the opposite end, the living space opens into a generous dining room where a dozen guests can feast on fine food and enjoy the same magnificent views, beneath an artistic, twinkling chandelier.

Terrace, Royal Suite

Bedroom, Royal Suite

FROM THE BED OF THE MODEST BEDROOM, I look directly at Lake Lucerne. But the beauty of the master suite is its private wellness facilities, which include a sauna, a steam room, a large jacuzzi-bath, and a spa treatment room – the latter already set-up for me. It is quite something to amble from your bedroom into a private treatment room and enjoy a massage, without having to see anyone apart from the therapist.

THROUGHOUT, THE SUITE'S INTERIORS ECHO the hotel’s overarching design ethos – where the elements of stone, timber, and metal create a seamless dialogue between indoors and out. Arana marble with a brushed surface graces the bathrooms, its deep veining an echo of the rugged landscapes beyond, while accent walls of Dematiou

stone – flamed and brushed for texture – ground the space in natural authenticity.

UNDOUBTEDLY ONE OF THE MOST remarkable accommodations in Europe, not to mention an interior architectural triumph, Bürgenstock's Royal Suite is much more than a place to stay; it is an experience in itself, and a floating haven above the pristine beauty of Lake Lucerne, where history, seclusion, and refinement effortlessly merge.

A stay in The Royal Suite at Bürgenstock Resort costs from CHF 16,000 per night and includes breakfast; a mini-bar stocked with soft drinks; spa, gym, and cinema access; and use of the MS Bürgenstock Catamaran and Bürgenstock Funicular. https://burgenstockresort.com

En Suite, Royal Suite

IN CONVERSATION WITH

daniel kitchener

ALSO KNOWN AS DANK, AND RENOWNED FOR HIS NEON-DRENCHED MURALS OF EAST ASIAN URBAN LANDSCAPES, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHATS WITH THE CELEBRATED BRITISH STREET ARTIST ABOUT HIS INSPIRATION, TRAVELS, AND WORK

WIDELY KNOWN AS DANK,

British street artist Dan Kitchener is renowned for his electrifying urban landscapes and neon-drenched cityscapes. With a background in illustration and design, Kitchener has cultivated a distinctive style that draws inspiration from the vibrant energy of metropolitan life, particularly in East Asia. His work, often depicting rainy, atmospheric night scenes illuminated by glowing streetlights and neon signs, captures the dynamism and beauty of urban environments in a cinematic fashion.

Kitchener’s artistic journey has been profoundly influenced by his travels, particularly to Tokyo, Hong Kong, and other major Asian cities. These experiences have shaped his signature aesthetic—blurry, impressionistic cityscapes that evoke movement, light, and the ephemeral nature of modern life. His technique, which employs freehand spray painting with remarkable precision, creates depth and texture, lending his pieces a dreamlike yet hyper-real quality. Among his most notable works are Shinjuku Nights, a large-scale mural encapsulating the dazzling vibrancy of Tokyo’s nightlife, and Electric City, which showcases his mastery of colour, light, and perspective. His murals, often painted on towering walls across cities worldwide, transform urban spaces into immersive, atmospheric worlds. Kitchener’s ability to fuse the grit of city life with an almost ethereal beauty has cemented his reputation as one of the most innovative street artists of his generation.

www.dankitchener.com

Please share a little about your early artistic influences? Were there any defining moments?

I had a very creative upbringing. Ever since I could hold a pencil, I drew and painted, and I was always very much encouraged by my parents, especially by my mother, who used to take us to the woods and different places to draw what we saw. I was also very keen on drawing cartoons, collected comics avidly, and entered numerous competitions, wining Young Cartoonist of the Year and some other prizes, which really boosted my enthusiasm and confidence.

Your background is in illustration and design - how did this shape your approach to largescale murals?

While illustration and design are elements of my creative background, my first passion has always been pure drawing –simple pencil or charcoal on paper – and this forms the basis of all the works I create, from digital art to huge murals. Being able to draw is fundamental to what I do, and it is vital for me to freehand draw everything, without ever using grids, guides, or projections.

I was very lucky to be able to unleash my creativity in first job, in TV postproduction, creating wonderfully elaborate animations for mainly music industry clients, including Paul McCartney, Kylie, Miley Cyrus, and Lenny Kravitz. Having always been fascinated by animation, the opportunity to create this type of work, and see it on TV or as huge stage screens, was a dream come true. The job also allowed me to explore lighting, composition, theatrical staging, and tell stories using imagery. Learning all of these disciplines over the years, feeds into the style and content of the murals I now paint all over the globe.

Your work is renowned for its cinematic, neon-soaked cityscapes. What is it about urban life - particularly at night - that captivates you?

I’ve always been drawn to the city at night, because it's so full of atmosphere, mystery and intrigue, as well as danger and excitement. For me, a city at night is when it comes to life with so many stories and I am fascinated by it. The neon-soaked

streets of Tokyo have always particularly sparked my imagination. The first of my seven trips to Tokyo was a visual explosion for me – I wandered the streets fro midnight 'til 3am taking over 5,000 shots, in an almost trance-like state, seeing potential painting after potential painting. That first trip has always stayed with me, and been the inspiration for numerous artworks around the world, both on canvas and in murals, based on the photos I took in Tokyo.

Many of your murals have a dreamlike, almost blurred quality, reminiscent of motion photography. Was this a conscious stylistic choice or something that evolved naturally?

I am fascinated by the imperfect and don’t like perfectly posed compositions. Life isn’t perfect or composed – it can move in a blur. I prefer the organic, natural feel of photography that has blurs, double exposures, and movement. Often I am in motion when I take shots – this lends a sense of realism and life to a photo, as it does to my murals, which feel authentic and are relatable.

How do your travels, particularly to Tokyo and other East Asian cities, inform the atmosphere and energy of your work? My travels provide me with a vast and endless source of inspiration and so many ideas that I just don't have enough time to explore them all. Plus, long flights provide me with peace and time to draw and sketch – I call it my mile-high sketching club – for I can draw without distraction for hours on end.

There is often a sense of solitude within the bustling cityscapes you create. Is this a reflection of personal experience, or a commentary on modern urban life? Yes, perhaps. I’ve felt quite alone in busy urban spaces, for people are blurred and move around whilst I stand still. We have lost connection with ourselves, although, within this, there’s a beauty and a simplicity to the world. I truly feel there is beauty everywhere – it just depends on how you look at it. I like to stand, look, and absorb the energy at all times of the day. I am also a keen marathon

London, United Kingdom (2023)

IMAGE: STREETARTATLAS

ART CULTURE

DANIEL KITCHENER

runner and always run when I am in a city on a mural trip – this helps me feel the city wake-up and allows me to see the changing times and lighting. I feel I can connect with a place by doing this. In fact, running is vital to my mural trips, both in the UK and overseas.

Your murals frequently depict rain-soaked streets - what is it about rain that makes it such a compelling subject?

Rain creates so much atmosphere, nostalgia, peace and calm, as well as beautiful reflections in the streets, like reflecting a different world in the pavement, distorting reality. To me, rain lights-up a city and creates

a visual explosion of colours. And while everyone runs out of the rain, I walk into a rain storm. My greatest inspiration has come from actively seeking out storms in Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Miami, laying down on the wet streets to get low shots, and filming puddles and street level pics, often while attracting bemused looks from passers-by, as I walk around full of joy. I love being in the rain.

Your large-scale murals are incredibly detailed. Talk us through the creative process. I first see a wall via photos and then during site visits, if possible. I will usually get inspired immediately and

use this base from which to work. It's important for me to be able to change direction totally if I feel the wall better lends itself to a different image. I am never set in stone with what I paint, and have to see the wall in person, and how it's approached on foot and seen by passers-by. I've often totally changed direction, since I never paint a mural I feel won’t suit the wall, because it's a living piece of art. I then use my vast photographic library to find images that fit my ideas for the walls, or I'll take fresh photos around the city. I love this really natural and organic approach to painting a new mural.

Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland (2023)

ART CULTURE

DANIEL KITCHENER

Do you work freehand or do you meticulously plan compositions before beginning?

I use my own photographs as visual references, but work freehand and sketch out a new mural by eye. Working freehand gives me the ability to adapt and change as the mural develops and to add things and go in different directions. I don't cut corners for speed and I won’t project an image on a wall to save time because it's important to me to sketch freehand since this forms the soul of the mural.

How do you navigate the challenges of working on such an imposing scale, often in unpredictable outdoor conditions? Its always, always a challenge. Often I feel that the image is the easy part, for the challenge is everything else around. No one sees the physical,

mental and environmental challenges, they only see the finished result. But each mural helps me learn something new about myself and the world around me. As challenging as some of them often are, I love being tested.

Street art is inherently public - do you ever consider how your audience will interact with your work while you’re painting? Yes, of course. I relish opportunities to speak with people and often these conversations take me in different directions. I want people to love what I’ve created and hope it resonates with them in some way and brings joy.

You’ve painted murals all over the world. Are there any particular pieces that hold special significance for you?

My epic mural in Wynwood Walls in Miami, on one of the neighbourhood's

most iconic walls, is probably the highlight of my career to date, and has become one of the most photographed murals in the area. I can't thank enough, Jessica Goldman and Peter Tunney, founders of Goldman Global Arts, which curates large, conceptual projects globally.

Shinjuku Nights and Electric City have become some of your most recognisable works – please tell us the story behind them? These works are based on my photographs of Tokyo. I painted murals of them as well as canvases.

Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's most famous neighborhoods. With its skyscrapers, neon lights, yakitori stalls, and stores all vying for attention, buzzing Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's most famous neighborhoods, has always fascinated me, and was the location of most of my

Miami, United States (2019)

early Japanese exploration. Literally full of electric neon life and culture, excitement, colour and vibrancy, I wanted to convey my passion for Shinjuku in these works.

Your work has been exhibited in galleries as well as on the streets. Do you approach these two spaces differently?

Paintings on canvas of course require a different approach and I have to be far more restrained. With murals, I can put my whole body into creating large sweeping motions. But the idea and energy behind them is the same for both, and I often paint large scale canvas works which bridge the gap between canvases and street art, like murals on canvas. I love the details on canvas works and distilling the essence of a mural to fit the

proportions of a canvas. It's a wonderful way to have authentic art with a street feel, in the home.

Have you ever faced resistance or challenges in securing legal spaces for your murals?

Not resistance, so much. But it's sometimes tricky to get walls because people don’t really understand what the work will be like and are worried that it might offend, which it never does, of course. of course. Often I sit down and show people examples of my work and talk with them about what I'm going to paint to put their minds at rest.

How do you see the role of street art in contemporary urban culture ?

Street art is a wonderful way for the general public to engage with art

and experience real art being created as they watch. And open-air urban galleries have switched so many more people onto the arts, which can only a good thing, especially when street art has changed peoples live and inspired younger generations. There are so many artists painting murals today – when I started, hardly anyone was painting street art!

Do you believe street art should remain transient and ephemeral, or do you see value in preserving certain works?

As much as id like my work to always remain, I think that the everchanging landscape is important to keep street art alive and full of energy. In fact, I feel that this is vital to the street art movement.

Los Alcázares, Spain (2024)

ART CULTURE DANIEL KITCHEN ER

How has the street art scene changed since you began, particularly in the UK? It has totally changed. When I started painting in Brick Lane 18 years ago, no-one knew what street art was, people would stop and stare, and it felt edgy, underground, and a bit anarchistic and rebellious. I would skulk around streets to paint! Today, street art is pretty mainstream and the general public has gotten used to it, to a degree.

In a digital age when street art is widely shared online, does this affect the way you think about your work’s longevity and reach? Its a good thing that so many people see my work and that of other artists, but I do perhaps feel that this, in a way, makes the art too disposable. Nowadays, people are so used to seeing huge murals, that may take weeks to paint, that they just pass them in the street, or swipe right to the next image, which diminishes the value of the work, and the time spent creating it.

What emotions or ideas do you hope to evoke in those who encounter your murals?

My hope is that people are uplifted by my work, see beauty and light, and it instils in them a sense of joy. I paint with this in mind, hoping that this energy and light comes across in my work. I receive messages saying how seeing my work

has changed someone's day. Even if one person says this, I am happy.

Have you ever had particularly memorable interactions while painting?

I am lucky to have had, over the years, many people tell me how my work is affecting them and how grateful they are to me. Or I’ve had people message me after I’ve finished a work, and tell me it has lit up their life, perhaps on the way to work, for instance.

What advice would you give to aspiring street artists hoping to establish themselves in the field?

Focus on the art - only ever focus on the art - not on the fame, money, or your ego.

Hone your skills, draw everyday, paint, and practice. Don’t paint for social media - paint for yourself from your heart. And don’t cut corners just to post on Instagram! Most of all, have passion for what you do, explore, experiment, play, and don’t be afraid. If you have passion, it will come across in your work.

Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations that you’re particularly excited about?

As my journey as an artist unfolds, I’ve learnt to just let things present themselves. I trust in this so I don’t plan too much. Life has a way of taking us to the places we need to be.

Wollongong, Australia (2024)

Toome, Northern Ireland (2024)

IMAGE: DAN KITCHENER

Leeuwarden, Netherlands (2023)

GALLE FORT

SRI LANKA

a living chronicle of centuries

AN ANCIENT PROMONTORY BY THE SEA, JUST A FEW HOURS' DRIVE FROM THE ISLAND NATION'S CAPITAL, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU IS DRAWN BACK TO SRI LANKA’S 16TH CENTURY LIVING FORT

THERE IS SOMETHING

deeply mesmerising about Galle Fort, something in the way the light shifts over its ancient ramparts, in the way the scent of salt lingers in its narrow lanes, and in the way time itself seems to flow differently within its walls. And, once seen, it is rarely somewhere you are likely to visit just once.

Perched on the southwestern coast of Sri Lanka, this fortified peninsula, encircled by the ceaseless rhythm of the Indian Ocean, has been shaped by the tides – both of history and the sea itself. Here, where the monsoon winds once carried merchant ships laden with silks and spices, echoes of distant worlds still seem to romantically murmur through the air as you wander its narrow streets.

TO ARRIVE IN GALLE IS TO STEP INTO a realm that belongs not to any single era but to many. Its ochre-hued bastions, sturdy yet obviously timeworn, rise against the azure sky, sentinels of a past layered with conquest, commerce, and cultural entanglement. Yet within its walls, life continues with an unhurried grace, as if the centuries have folded into themselves, creating a place where the past lingers, but never in silence.

A LEGACY CARVED IN STONE

Galle’s recorded history stretches back over two millennia, long before the first European s ails appeared on its horizon. Ancient traders from Arabia, Persia, and India knew it well, drawn by its strategic location and abundant

riches – cinnamon, ivory, and gemstones that glowed like captured sunlight. But it was in 1505 that a new chapter was inked into the town’s fate, when the Portuguese first landed upon its shores.

THE FORTRESS THAT STANDS TODAY, however, is not their legacy. Their initial fortifications, hastily constructed and militarily crude, were soon overshadowed by the more formidable designs of the Dutch, who wrested control of Galle in 1640. The Dutch East India Company, recognising its importance as a maritime stronghold, reinforced the promontory with a series of formidable walls, moats, and bastions, ensuring its dominion over the surrounding waters.

WHAT THEY BUILT WAS MORE THAN A military outpost – it was a testament to colonial ambition, an enclave of European order in the tropics. The fort became a self-sufficient township, complete with warehouses, churches, administrative halls, and a grid of streets that bore the imprint of meticulous Dutch urban planning. Even today, its streets retain names bestowed upon them centuries ago, a palimpsest of colonial nomenclature etched into the stone.

THE FLOURISHING OF A COSMOPOLITAN HUB

By the 18th century, Galle Fort had reached its zenith. A city within walls, it thrived as a hub where cultures met, mingled, and interwove. Sinhalese artisans, Dutch merchants, Malay navigators, and Moorish traders all found a place here, their lives entangled in the rhythms

of trade and tide. With its deep harbour welcoming vessels from every quarter of the known world, Galle was a place of convergence, its streets a tapestry of languages, attires, and customs.

YET, DESPITE ITS PROSPERITY, THE fort’s dominance was not to last. When the British seized control of Sri Lanka in 1796, the tide of commerce shifted. Colombo, with its larger, more modern harbour, soon eclipsed Galle as the island’s primary maritime gateway. The fort remained, but its significance dwindled, its streets no longer the lifeblood of an empire. The years that followed saw it recede from the foreground of global affairs, its grand colonial buildings ageing in quiet dignity, its ramparts standing as weathered witnesses to history’s inexorable march.

A TIMELESS ENCLAVE OF ARCHITECTURAL GRANDEUR

Today, the fort endures as one of the best surviving colonial strongholds in all of Asia, its architectural landscape an evocative blend of Dutch, Portuguese, and British influences. Its thick walls, brimming with history, stand impervious to the encroachments of time, their surfaces worn smooth by the salty embrace of the monsoon winds. Within, narrow streets unfold in a labyrinthine warren, their edges lined with gabled rooftops, wooden shutters, and pillared verandahs that speak to a past both austere and elegant.

AMONG THE FORT’S MOST COMMANDING features are its bastions – solid, immovable, built for the defence of empires long vanished. Sitting on the southernmost point of Galle Fort, the Flag Rock Bastion, once a strategic lookout, now serves as a place where locals and visitors gather at dusk, watching the sun melt into the waves. The Moon Bastion, the Star Bastion – each has its own history, its own silent stories embedded in stone.

THE RELIGIOUS AND CIVIC EDIFICES scattered throughout the enclave are no less remarkable. Situated near the entrance to the fort, the Groote Kerk, or Dutch Reformed Church, was built in 1755 and is one of the oldest Protestant churches in Sri Lanka, its interior a study in simplicity and solemnity, with tombstones of

Dutch settlers embedded into the floor. The Meera Mosque, its white domes and arched colonnades a striking contrast to the fort’s predominantly European aesthetic, speaks to the enduring presence of the Muslim community. And rising above it all, the old lighthouse, a sentinel of light against the dark expanse of the ocean, remains a symbol of Galle’s maritime past.

A LIVING HERITAGE, RESILIENT AND RENEWED

While history looms large over Galle Fort, it is no relic. It breathes and positively hums with life. The rhythm of daily existence unfolds much as it always has – early mornings punctuated by the calls of stilt fishermen returning from the sea, afternoons drowsy with the scent of frangipani drifting through quiet courtyards, evenings alive with the distant strains of temple bells mingling with the murmur of waves against the stone.

IN THE COURTYARDS AND KITCHENS OF old colonial houses, culinary traditions endure, passed down through generations. Coconut-laced curries, fragrant with pandan and lemongrass, simmer gently over open flames. Hoppers, delicate and crisp at the edges, arrive at tables filled with aromatic sambols and slow-cooked chutneys. The influence of centuries of trade is evident in every bite, a fusion of indigenous flavours with the culinary legacies of those who once docked in Galle’s harbour.

FESTIVALS BRING THE FORT’S CULTURAL vibrancy to life, nowhere more vividly than during the annual Galle Literary Festival every February, when the town transforms into a gathering ground for writers, poets, and thinkers from across the world. The spoken word reverberates against ancient walls, adding yet another layer to the fort’s storied existence. galleliteraryfestival.com

A SENTINEL OF STORIES BY THE SEA Galle Fort is not simply a place, or a destination, but an inheritance – a chronicle of conquest and commerce, of ambition and endurance. It has stood for centuries against the forces of empire and the ravages of time, yet remains largely unchanged in essence, its spirit as resolute as its stone ramparts. To walk its historic streets is to traverse centuries. To stand upon its walls is to gaze not just upon the restless ocean, but upon the ever-turning wheel of history. And here, within the fort's bastions, beneath the timeless Sri Lankan sky, the past does not merely echo – it endures.

Stilt Fisherman

DRINKING AND DINING IN GALLE FORT

SET ON SRI LANKA’S southwestern coastline, the region surrounding Galle is rich in agricultural and maritime abundance, and its food culture is deeply influenced by both the land and the sea, with local farms supplying coconuts, papayas, bananas and other produce, while the Indian Ocean provides an array of fresh catches including tuna, prawns, and crabs. This fusion of fresh, tropical ingredients shapes the modern cuisine served in Galle Fort’s eateries, where innovation meets tradition.

SITUATED IN THE OLD DUTCH Hospital, which is one of the oldest buildings in Galle Fort, The Tuna & The Crab is a relaxed, contemporary hybrid Japanese and seafood restaurant serving some of the best food in the

area, while principally celebrating the best of Sri Lanka's tuna and crustaceans. Created by celebrated chef Dharshan Munidasa and launched just over a decade ago, this is the place to kick-back and enjoy a refined seafood experience embodying Japanese culinary principles, fashioned from the freshest local ingredients. Not to be missed is the restaurant's signature Sri Lankan Mud Crab, coated in a deliciously thick sauce made with freshly milled black pepper. For leisurely dinners, tasting menus deliver bold, clean flavours that highlight Galle’s maritime heritage. If you only have time for a pit-stop, a range of Japanese-style bento box sets are excellent value, starting at USD18, and are a stylish way to re-fuel midway through a busy day.

www.tunaandthecrab.com

SET JUST METRES FROM THE ocean within sleek, Art Deco-inspired surrounds, Charlie’s Bar & Bistro at The Charleston hotel offers a stylish and contemporary dining experience, complete with superb cocktails that incorporate flavours and spices hailing from the Indian subcontinent. Be sure to reserve seats on the popular terrace, if you want to order sundowners and watch the sun gently disappear behind the horizon. Inside, there is plenty of bar and table seating to get comfy for a leisurely feast of Tiger Prawn Curry, made from fresh, locally caught tiger prawns, coconut milk, roasted masala, and curry crab broth. Or dive into a dessert of sugar-dusted cinnamon doughnuts, served with homemade chocolate sauce and mango and coconut ice-cream. Whatever you eat and drink

Charlie's Bar & Bistro

The Tuna & The Crab

at Charlie's will undoubtedly please, so be sure to allow enough time to fully enjoy the delicious fare, standout service, and gorgeous setting. And don't leave without trying a gin-based Lemongrass Galle cocktail, or two! www.charliesbar.lk

HISTORIC 300-YEAR-OLD GALLE

Fort Hotel is home to Ropewalk bar, which is renowned for its signature Arrack-based cocktails. A somewhat timeless spirit distilled from the sap of the coconut palm, Arrack has begun its journey to global recognition, not least thanks to the rather excellent cocktails prepared at Ropewalk, which it is worth sampling at least one of, even if you're not an Arrack fan. Made with sous-vide ginger and lemongrass syrup, fresh lime juice, and Old Cask Arrack spiced for 45days, the bar's eponymous Ropewalk cocktail is the one to try. And whilst the photogenic bar inside, designed by Eranga Tennakoon, is the place to sip a cocktail, be sure to move to the hotel's beautiful veranda out back, overlooking the tranquil pool, to order food and enjoy the lush surroundings. www.galleforthotel.com

NESTLED WITHIN THE HEART of Galle Fort, The Bungalow is an enchanting restaurant, bar, and pair of guest rooms, which offer a uniquely secluded and homely experience. Set within a 17th-century heritage building, guests are shaded by lush botanicals and established trees as they tuck into hearty, flavourful and good value dishes delivered by a passionate and attentive team. Start with a refreshing Watermelon and Feta Salad with basil. Follow with the moreish, silky and aromatic spicy Butter Chicken. And finish with fresh hot Churros, served with an irresistible chilli chocolate dip. After your meal, kick-back with a singleestate tea hailing from one of Sri Lanka's finest plantations. Once comfy in The Bungalow, you may be hardpushed to leave. www.bungalowgalle.com

Ropewalk

The Bungalow

STAY AT THE SUN HOUSE

18 UPPER DICKSON RD, GALLE 80000

ABOUT FIVE-MINUTES BY TUK-TUK from Galle Fort, The Sun House is the seaside town's original boutique hotel. As such, the property encapsulates a fascinating history and legacy of hospitality. Established in an era marked by dynamic cultural interplay, the property has undergone thoughtful modernisation while entirely honouring its original character and retaining all of its charm. Today, this storied establishment has deftly woven together legacy stories and modern comforts, offering guests a retreat that is both distinguished and comfortable – a true home-away-from-home.

ONCE THROUGH ITS GATES AND ENSCONCED within, the hotel's supremely secluded setting is soon evident. And with it, a sense of privacy and a palpable air of calm, sufficient to soothe the mostweary of travellers, or nurture those most fatigued by the hectic world outside The Sun House's protective walls.

MATURE AND VERDANT GARDENS SURROUND the main house and adjoining guest rooms, providing ample places to sit and ponder. Lovingly restored original interiors reveal an intimate ambience where every detail speaks to a commitment to authenticity. From the meticulously arranged lighting to the carefully curated furnishings, everything contributes to an aesthetic that honours both heritage and originality. And every guest room and suite is crafted with such attention to detail, that visitors are instantly immersed in an environment reflective of a storied past without sacrificing contemporary creature comforts. Indeed, rooms are so inviting and cosy that it is easy to forget that you are actually staying in a hotel.

THE SUN HOUSE IS NOT MERELY A PLACE TO stay – it is an experience that celebrates its heritage and architecture. Elegant in its character, its narrative unfolds across every space and established garden path, offering a subtle yet profound dialogue between tradition and progress. For those seeking a hotel that marries history with current sensibilities, this refined haven in Galle provides an invitation to rediscover the art of leisurely living and reflective relaxation, complete with attentive service and delicious home-cooked meals. https://thesunhouse.com

The Sun House

The Sun House

CAPRI ITALY

the island of eternal enchantment

KEVIN PILLEY EXPLORES THE SUN-DRENCHED ISLAND OF CAPRI, WHERE SHEER LIMESTONE CLIFFS PLUNGE INTO A SAPPHIRE SEA, ANCIENT VILLAS WHISPER SCANDALOUS SECRETS, AND WINDING PATHS LEAD TO BREATHTAKING VISTAS – EACH STEP A JOURNEY THROUGH A WORLD OF MYTH, INDULGENCE, AND TIMELESS MEDITERRANEAN ALLURE

For centuries, Capri has captivated travellers, poets, and dreamers, each seduced by its ineffable charm. Rising from the sapphire waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, this fabled island – just a short ferry ride from Naples –has been a place of indulgence and inspiration, where rugged cliffs plunge into iridescent coves, and winding paths lead to vistas that seem almost otherworldly.

It is an isle of paradoxes, where decadent history meets untamed nature, and where the echoes of Roman emperors mingle with the chatter of modern-day visitors. Yet, to truly experience Capri, one must explore it on foot, away from the bustling Piazzetta and high-end boutiques, along its sinuous paths and stone-carved stairways, which reveal an island as intoxicating as the limoncello sipped in its shaded terraces.

A LANDSCAPE OF LEGEND

Capri’s topography is a study in drama – steep limestone cliffs, hidden grottoes, and verdant terraces cascading towards the sea. Mythology clings to the island like sea mist. It was here, legend has it, that the Sirens lured sailors to their doom, their haunting songs carried across the waves. Homer’s Odysseus, tied to the mast of his ship, resisted their call –just as today’s visitors must resist the constant entreaties of boatmen offering tours of the famed Blue Grotto.

TO ARRIVE IN CAPRI IS TO STEP INTO A WORLD where time slows. The first glimpse from the ferry – an ethereal white silhouette against an impossibly blue sky – has lost none of its magic, just as it entranced Norman Douglas, Somerset Maugham, and a host of other literary luminaries. But Capri is best understood not from the water, nor even from the confines of a sun-drenched café table, but through the rhythm of one’s own steps.

THE ISLAND OF STEPS

Walking in Capri is not for the faint-hearted. Everything is either up or down, and the island’s steep inclines are an inevitable part of the experience. The locals have long mastered the art of ascent and descent, their lives dictated

The Phoenician Steps

by ancient stairways chiselled into the rock. The Phoenician Steps, or Scala Fenicia, linking Marina Grande with Anacapri, are among the most formidable – 921 vertiginous steps hewn by Greek settlers, later traversed by monks, traders, and weary travellers. A funicular offers an easier alternative, but for the purist, the climb is a rite of passage.

Elsewhere, the Via Migliera, a scenic path leading to the Philosophical Park, offers a gentler stroll, culminating in panoramic views of the Faraglioni Rocks – Capri’s iconic limestone sea stacks, sculpted by time and tide. The Sentiero dei Fortini, a rugged coastal trail, traces the ruins of old watchtowers, revealing hidden coves and vertiginous drop-offs where the waves crash with relentless energy.

ECHOES OF EMPIRE

Capri has long been a sanctuary for those seeking seclusion and excess in equal measure. The Roman Emperor Tiberius, tiring of the political intrigues of Rome, retreated here in AD 27, ruling the empire from his cliff-top Villa Jovis. The ruins, perched 300 metres above the sea, still whisper of imperial decadence – of lavish banquets, secret passageways, and the scandalous escapades that inspired Suetonius’ more lurid accounts.

Further down the island, the 20th-century Villa Lysis tells another story of hedonistic escape. Built in 1905 by the exiled French poet and aristocrat Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen, it remains a testament to Capri’s enduring allure for artists, misfits, and free spirits.

A STROLL THROUGH TIME

The heart of Capri town beats in La Piazzetta, a small but lively square where locals and visitors mingle over espresso and aperitivi, beneath the watchful gaze of the 17th-century Church of Santo Stefano. From here, cobbled lanes wind past bougainvillaea-draped villas, leading to the tranquil Gardens of Augustus, or Giardini di Augusto, where terraced pathways spill over the cliffs, offering sublime views of Via Krupp, the famous serpentine footpath carved into the rock.

For those in search of cultural intrigue, the island’s past reveals itself in the homes of its more recent luminaries. Axel Munthe’s Villa San Michele, in Anacapri, is a masterpiece of understated beauty, with its shaded arcades and panoramic terraces. The modernist Villa Malaparte, an architectural wonder perched above the sea, remains a striking emblem of Capri’s avant-garde spirit. Even the ghost of Lenin lingers here, his time on the island commemorated by Italy’s only monument to the Soviet leader, a curious relic of a forgotten visit.

IMAGE: HERV É SIMON

Villa Lysis

Villa Malaparte

La Terrazza di Lucullo

SCENT AND SENSIBILITY

Away from the main thoroughfares, Capri is an island of scent. The air is thick with the fragrance of jasmine, wild myrtle, and sun-warmed citrus. Lemon groves spill down terraced hillsides, their fruit transformed into the island’s signature limoncello, best enjoyed ice-cold on a shaded terrace. Wisteria tumbles over ancient stone walls, and broom flowers, known locally as the “flower of St. Costanzo,” blaze yellow against the limestone cliffs.

Vineyards cling to the hillsides, producing crisp whites and robust reds that pair effortlessly with the island’s cuisine. Here, the simplest dishes sing – fresh vongole tossed with handmade pasta, buffalo mozzarella still warm from the morning’s milking, and delicate ravioli Capresi, a local speciality that speaks of generations of culinary tradition.

A REWARDING INDULGENCE

No visit to Capri would be complete without a moment of indulgence. For those seeking respite after a day’s exploration, La Terrazza di Lucullo at the Hotel Caesar Augustus offers a feast for the senses – both culinary and visual. Perched on a cliff edge, with a sweeping panorama of the Bay of Naples, it is a place to linger over a plate of gnocchi alla Sorrentina, paired with a glass of Falanghina.

Gardens of Augustus

La Piazzetta

Capri town

The Faraglioni Rocks

FURTHER INTO CAPRI TOWN, THE LEGENDARY Grand Hotel Quisisana has long been the preserve of the well-heeled and well-connected. But for a more intimate experience, the newly reopened La Palma, the island’s oldest hotel, offers a nod to its bohemian past. Here, cocktails are named after Italian gestures – order a “Ma Che Vuoi” with a flourish, and you may just be rewarded with a knowing smile from the bartender.

CAPRI'S ENDURING MAGIC

To visit Capri is to enter a world where beauty reigns supreme. Whether it is the play of light on the Faraglioni at

sunset, the heady scent of citrus in the air, or the languid pleasure of an evening spent with nothing more pressing than a chilled Negroni in hand, the island’s spell is inescapable.

It is a place that rewards those who take the time to wander – to climb its ancient stairways, to discover its hidden paths, to lose themselves in its quiet corners. Capri is more than a destination; it is an experience, an intoxicating blend of nature, history, and indulgence. And as the sun sets behind its carob-dotted cliffs, casting the island in hues of amber and rose, one thing becomes clear – Capri is not just a place to visit. It is a place to return to, time and time again. www.capri.com

SET WITHIN THE STATELY SURROUNDS OF WHITEHALL, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER REVIEWS MAURO COLLAGRECO'S ONE MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT AT LONDON'S HISTORIC OLD WAR OFFICE; VISITS SAUSKA'S SPECTACULAR NEW CUTTING-EDGE WINERY IN HUNGARY'S TOKAJ REGION, AND EXPLORES THE SLOVENIAN CAPITAL'S BURGEONING FOOD SCENE

MAURO COLAGRECO AT RAFFLES LONDON

➤ THE OWO, LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

SAUSKA'S TOKAJ WINERY

➤ RÁTKA, HUNGARY

LJUBLJANA'S FOOD SCENE

➤ SLOVENIA

JAZ by Ana Roš, Ljubljana

REVIEW

IN THE STATELY SURROUNDS OF WHITEHALL, JOE MORTIMER IS SEDUCED BY A QUINTESSENTIALLY BRITISH RESTAURANT WHERE MENUS SHIFT WITH THE SEASONS AND HUMBLE VEGETABLES RULE THE ROOST

MAURO COLAGRECO AT RAFFLES LONDON ➤ THE OWO, LONDON, UK

STEPPING THROUGH AN OAK doorway on Horse Guards Avenue held open by a liveried doorman in a burgundy cape is a suitably ceremonial start to an evening at Mauro Colagreco, the signature dining experience at Raffles at The OWO. As the first UK outpost for the eponymous Argentine chef, whose Cote d’Azur restaurant Mirazur was

awarded three Michelin stars and the number one spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2019, this Whitehall destination instils high expectations. As does the setting.

London’s Old War Office was the home of the British Army from 1906 until 1964 and the stage on which numerous historical events were set. Everything from the

mosaic tiled floors to the elaborate moulded ceilings was faithfully restored to its original glory under the auspices of the late New York designer Thierry Despont during a six-year renovation that concluded in September 2023 with the opening of Raffles at The OWO.

TWENTIETH-CENTURY OPULENCE is replaced by a more residential feel in the restaurant, where modest shades of gold and burnished beige form the backdrop for colourful pieces from the hotel’s extensive art collection, including four illustrations by Sussex-based artist Claudia Lowry depicting seasonal British fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers; a tantalising teaser for the gastronomical journey that follows.

IT’S QUIET WHEN WE ARRIVE at 8pm on a chilly mid-January evening, but so are most restaurants in London during the doldrum days after Christmas and New Year. Nothing lifts the spirits like a glass of bubbles, and since a celebration of British ingredients is about to ensue, it is fitting that we start with a glass of English sparkling wine served from a Champagne trolley, the first of many fanciful touches that weave theatre into the evening.

A QUARTET OF AMUSE-BOUCHES, each in their own wild diorama, make up the prologue: mushroom and truffle tartlets on a mound of walnuts; slivers of smoked mackerel with pine jelly on a tide of seaweed; salty-sweet cauliflower chocolate caviar on a bed of straw; and prawn parcel in a supershort pastry shell on a forest floor of pine — all accompanied by pillowy bread and a dangerously moreish ginger-infused dipping-oil. It’s a playful prelude to the seasonal story that’s about to unfold.

“HAVE YOU EVER SEEN ONE OF these before?” asks the maître d’ wheeling over a cart laden with fresh garden produce and holding

Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London

Raddish

Bread course Mauro Colagreco

IMAGE: MATTEO CARASSALE

aloft a colourful bushel of green, pink and white leaves. We dutifully shake our heads as he explains that it’s rainbow kale, one of the 70-odd British vegetables and fruits used in the restaurant. Today we are feasting upon the ‘Land and Sea’ tasting menu, a seasonal celebration of the British landscape, where humble ingredients are given their moment in the spotlight, supported by a cast of fresh produce sourced from local suppliers across the British Isles.

EACH OF THE FIVE COURSES are identified on the menu by their lead ingredient: Radish, Potato, Beetroot, Kale and Pear. Although meat is demoted to a supporting role, it remains a prominent component in

most dishes and can’t help but claim the spotlight in others.

The first course, Radish, features a beautifully poached scallop nestled under a tangle of mooli ribbons cured in tangy orange, served in a froth of fermented sea buckthorn oil and green cardamom. Its, fresh, zesty and softly bitter, complemented superbly by the paired glass of New York State Riesling.

The salted cod salad in the second course, Potato, gives structure to the dish, in which the dominant flavour comes from a caramelized potato foam dotted with zingy pearls of Oscietra caviar. The humble spud is the undisputed hero of the dish; a bowl of concentrated, buttery delight with an intensity of salty potato

flavour that’s balanced nicely with a glass of bone-dry Loire Valley Chenin Blanc.

In the year-and-a-bit since opening, Colagreco and his London head chef, Leonel Aguirre, have built a network of suppliers from across the British Isles, working specifically with farmers and suppliers that champion sustainable agriculture. One of them is Paul Rhodes Bakery in Greenwich, whose London heritage sourdough loaf makes an unexpected appearance in a brief interlude between courses, along with a fluffy, triple-whipped Devonshire butter. Its deliciousness is quietly contemplated while reading an excerpt from Pablo Neruda’s Ode to Bread, printed out and served alongside chunky slices.

Cheese trolley

A PLUMP PIECE OF MONKFISH sits at the heart of Beetroot, served with a medley of earthy beets in different guises: sweet candy cane striped Chioggia, silky-smooth beet purée and soft roasted beetroot accompanied with a matelote sauce (usually found in a French fish stew) and long-pepper emulsion foam. There’s no hiding the perfectly cooked slice of ex dairy cow sirloin in the Kale dish, served between delicate fans of peacock kale with a deeply delicious lapsang souchong jus; served with a hearty shot of beef consommé on the side. It’s both theatrical and satisfying, enhanced further by the juicy dark-berry flavours of a Santa Barbara Syrah that demands an encore.

THE FINAL ACT, PEAR, GETS a standing ovation. Shaded by a gossamer-fine speculoos crisp and a globe of brioche ice cream, the earthy pear terrine fits perfectly atop a buttery crumb base. Accompanied by a glass of luscious Tokaji Aszu, Napoleon’s tipple of choice, this is a masterclass in balance and my stand-out dish for its harmonious combination of sweet, salty and crunch.

THROUGHOUT THE PERFORMANCE

, a beautifully illustrated card depicting each hero ingredient is delivered alongside each dish, providing a brief history of its arrival and cultivation in the UK. As well as providing fodder for spirited conversations around things like the origin of potatoes and the essence of Britishness, the cards firmly ground each ingredient in its historical context, and celebrate its role in the nation’s agricultural heritage.

MAURO COLAGRECO IS NO stranger to seasonality or championing lesser-known ingredients. At his adopted home in Menton in the South of France, the produce grown in his five gardens is used exclusively in

Pear

Digestif Trolley

Mirazur, which was also awarded a Michelin Green Star in 2020 for its environmental initiatives. In 2022, Colagreco was named UNESCO

Goodwill Ambassador for Biodiversity,

a role that has seen him champion sustainable food choices and production in front of world leaders at COP16 in Cali. Today, that work continues in London.

While the effort to put vegetables at the forefront is one that challenges our basic carnivorous preconceptions of dining, it is an idea that has found a solid foothold in the menus of Mauro Colagreco at Raffles at The OWO. By building dishes around vegetables and celebrating seasonal produce as a lead actor rather than an afterthought, Colagreco is changing the way we think about food for the better. This was a thought-provoking meal that demonstrated extraordinary refinement and attention to detail; a true celebration of seasonal British produce and the natural cycles that bring food to our table.

MAURO COLAGRECO AT RAFFLES LONDON

FOOD SERVICE

ATMOSPHERE

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Mauro Colagreco HEAD CHEF: Leonel Aguirre

ADDRESS: The OWO, 57 Whitehall, London SW1A 2BX, United Kingdom

TELEPHONE: +44 (0)20 3907 7520

EMAIL: maurocolagreco.london @raffles.com

WEBSITE: www.raffles.com/london

CUISINE: Seasonal British

OPENING HOURS: Lunch ThursdaySaturday 12.00 - 14.00. Dinner Tuesday - Saturday 18.00 - 22.00

LUNCH: 3-course set lunch menu GBP 60 with cheese selection GBP 18

DINNER: 3-course à la carte Discovery Menu GBP 110

IDEAL MEAL: 5-course Land and Sea tasting menu GBP 165, with GBP 125 or GBP 425 wine pairing

RESERVATIONS: Essential

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: Over 12 years old welcome

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PARKING: Chargeable valet

TCT REVIEWER: Joe Mortimer for dinner

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and wine, service, and the atmosphere in the dining room

Red Berry & Shiso

a new era for tokaj wine

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER VISITS SAUSKA'S CUTTING-EDGE TOKAJ WINE ESTATE, WHERE HISTORY, TERROIR, AND INNOVATION CONVERGE IN A STRIKING NEW ARCHITECTURAL LANDMARK THAT HAS RESHAPED THE LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARCHMOSPHERES.COM

SAUSKA TOKAJ RÁTKA, HUNGARY

A WINERY IS never just a place where wine is made. More often than not, it is a tapestry

of history, ambition, and artistry, interwoven with the land from which it draws its lifeblood. At Sauska’s Tokaj estate, these elements are not merely present – they define its very essence. Here, centuries-old winemaking traditions meet a forward-thinking vision, creating wines that honour both the past and the future.

CHRISTIAN SAUSKA, THE MAN behind this ambitious enterprise, is no ordinary vintner. His journey did not begin among the rolling vineyards of Tokaj, nor in the cellars of a family deeply entrenched in the winemaking tradition. Instead, it all began in a world seemingly far removed from viticulture – one of precision engineering and global business.

BORN IN HUNGARY, SAUSKA GREW up with an appreciation for craftsmanship and attention to detail, qualities that would later define his approach to wine. His early years were shaped by an education in electrical engineering, a discipline that demands both technical mastery and a relentless pursuit of perfection. It was not until his move to the United States, however, that his passion for wine truly began to take root.

IN AMERICA, SAUSKA BUILT a successful career in advanced lighting technologies, working at the forefront of innovation in optics and luminescence. The work was demanding, the environment competitive, but the rewards were great. Yet, amidst the rush of corporate life, he discovered something that would alter his trajectory – a deep and abiding fascination with wine, which first manifested itself as a personal pursuit, a curiosity nurtured through travel, tastings, and an evergrowing cellar of bottles from the world’s most revered regions. Bordeaux, Napa, Burgundy – each experience refined Sauska's palate and strengthened his resolve. Wine, he realised, was more than a beverage; it was a living expression of place, time, and human ingenuity.

Reception

Winery

THIS REALISATION SOON EVOLVED into something more than admiration. It became a calling. While still immersed in his corporate career, Sauska made the bold decision to return to his homeland and invest in the art of winemaking. At this time, Hungary, with its deep-rooted traditions and unparalleled terroir, was something of a sleeping giant on the world wine stage. He saw potential, not just for revival but for reinvention. And so began a journey that would eventually lead to the creation of one of Hungary’s most pioneering wineries.

TO UNDERSTAND SAUSKA’S WINES, one must first understand Tokaj itself. Nestled in the northeast of Hungary, this historic wine region is a sanctuary

for viticulture, its landscape shaped by time and volcanic activity. The winery sits just outside the village of Mád, an area that has been at the heart of Tokaj winemaking for centuries.

The Sauska estate occupies a privileged position on the southern slope of Padi Hill, where vineyards stretch towards the horizon, their orderly rows a quiet testament to the toil of generations. This is not just any wine region. Tokaj is one of the oldest classified wine-producing areas in the world, recognised by UNESCO for its unparalleled contribution to viticulture. The land, with its undulating topography and ancient volcanic soils, offers something truly rare: a terroir capable of producing wines of astonishing depth and complexity.

IF GREAT WINE IS BORN IN THE vineyard, then Sauska’s success is rooted in the unique geology beneath its vines. The soils here are rich in rhyolite, zeolite, and andesite – remnants of volcanic eruptions that occurred millions of years ago. This mineral composition lends an unmistakable purity and tension to the wines, enhancing both structure and longevity. But terroir is not merely about soil. The climate plays an equally vital role. The long, warm summers and cool autumns create ideal conditions for slow, even ripening, allowing the grapes to develop nuanced flavours while maintaining their vibrant acidity. The presence of the Bodrog and Tisza rivers introduces morning mists that encourage the development of Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot responsible for Tokaj’s legendary sweet wines. It is this confluence of elements –soil, climate, and tradition – that gives Sauska’s wines their signature finesse.

WHILE TOKAJ’S LEGACY HAS long been synonymous with its worldrenowned Aszú wines, Sauska has never been one to simply follow the expected path. The winery’s portfolio is a study in balance – respecting the traditions of the region while embracing a broader, more contemporary vision.

The Tokaji Aszú, made from handselected botrytised grapes, remains a centrepiece of the collection. These wines, aged patiently in Hungarian oak, exhibit extraordinary depth –honeyed apricots, saffron, and orange peel intertwined with a striking acidity that ensures freshness and longevity. But Aszú is not the sole expression of Tokaj’s potential. In a bold move, Sauska has also focused on dry wines, proving that the Furmint grape – so often the backbone of sweet wines – can stand alone with poise and precision. The estate’s dry Furmint is taut and electric, its mineral backbone enlivened by citrus, pear, and a whisper of white flowers. Hárslevelű, another indigenous variety, adds a touch of

softness to certain blends, bringing notes of honey and spice. But perhaps the most surprising evolution at Sauska has been the introduction of sparkling wines. Drawing on the expertise of acclaimed consultant Régis Camus, the winery has embraced the Méthode Traditionnelle, crafting sparkling wines that rival those of Champagne. These cuvées, composed primarily of Furmint, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, exhibit a remarkable balance of tension and complexity, redefining what Hungarian sparkling wine can achieve.

GREAT WINEMAKING REQUIRES not just vision but an environment that nurtures both innovation and tradition. Nowhere is this philosophy more evident than in Sauska’s new state-of-the-art winery, perched atop Padi Hill. Designed by BORD Architectural Studio, the structure is a striking departure from conventional winery aesthetics.

Rather than a single imposing edifice, the design is defined by two sculptural, lens-shaped volumes that seemingly hover over the landscape. These 36-metre-wide circular forms house the public areas, including the restaurant and bar, creating an immersive experience that is both intimate and expansive. Yet the choice of architecture is not merely stylistic. Every aspect of the building has been meticulously planned to harmonise with the environment. Large glass facades invite the outside in, offering uninterrupted views of the vineyards while flooding the interior with natural light. The winery’s position on the southern slope maximises solar exposure, contributing to both energy efficiency and an enhanced visitor experience. And the materials chosen – concrete, wood, and steel – reflect a deep respect

for the natural surroundings, blending seamlessly with the volcanic terrain.

BEYOND ITS STRIKING aesthetics, the facility is a triumph of technical innovation. Equipped with cutting-edge vinification technology, it allows for absolute precision at every stage of the winemaking process. Gravity-fed systems ensure minimal handling of the grapes, preserving their integrity from harvest to fermentation. Temperaturecontrolled fermentation tanks allow the winemakers to fine-tune the expression of each vintage, while an underground ageing cellar provides the perfect conditions for wines to evolve gracefully over time. This marriage of form and function is particularly evident in the way the winery facilitates both production and hospitality. A seamless flow between workspaces and visitor areas allows guests to witness the winemaking process in real-time, fostering a deeper appreciation for the craft. And the restaurant, with its panoramic vistas, elegant minimalist design and beautiful detailing, serves as the most fitting of stages for Sauska’s wines and the delicious seasonal cuisine of chef Attila Bicsár, offering pairings that highlight the wines' nuanced character.

SAUSKA’S TOKAJ ESTATE IS MORE than a winery – it is an oenological statement. A statement that Hungarian wine belongs on the world stage. A statement that innovation and tradition need not be at odds. A statement that great wine is as much about place as it is about process. For those who are lucky enough to visit, the experience is unforgettable. For those who taste the wines, the story of Tokaj is told in every sip. https://sauska.hu/en/tokaj

Padi Restaurant

FROM TRADITIONAL DISHES TO CUTTING-EDGE CULINARY CREATIONS, WITH LOCAL WINEMAKERS AND INNOVATIVE CHEFS LEADING THE WAY, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU UNCOVERS WHY THE SLOVENIAN CAPITAL IS A MUST-VISIT FOR FOOD LOVERS

LJUBLJ FOOD SCENE

ANA

LJUBLJANA ➤ SLOVENIA

SLOVENIA IS A LAND that shapes its flavours, and its captivating heart, Ljubljana, is a city of balance – where oldworld charm meets contemporary ambition, where tradition informs innovation, and where a reverence for the land defines what arrives on your plate. Slovenia’s capital is set against a landscape that has long dictated the rhythm of life for its farmers, fishermen, and winemakers. Encircled by rolling hills, fertile valleys, and the emerald ribbon of the Ljubljanica River, the city’s surroundings are as generous as they are diverse.

SLOVENIA’S COMPACT GEOGRAPHY grants it a rare culinary advantage: it borrows from the Alpine, Mediterranean, and Pannonian worlds. To the north, highland pastures yield exceptional dairy, while the Adriatic coast, just over an hour away, supplies the markets with fresh seafood. The country’s eastern plains, once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, bring a rustic, hearty sensibility to many dishes, while the Karst region’s rugged limestone terrain nurtures the distinctive flavours of prosciutto and truffles.

For generations, these landscapes have shaped the way Slovenes eat. Farming here has never been about excess; it is about balance, about taking what the land willingly offers. In Ljubljana’s food markets, the influence of this ethos is clear: wild mushrooms foraged from the deep forests, plump river trout caught in pristine waters, and heirloom grains that have nourished Slovenian families for centuries. Today’s chefs may have their eyes set on the future, but their foundations remain firmly rooted in this landscape of abundance.

IMAGE: ANDREJ TARFILA

IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN

JAZ by Ana Roš

TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

FROM HEARTY CLASSICS TO STREET-FOOD DELIGHTS

There is comfort in tradition and Slovenian cuisine is deeply tied to its agrarian past, yet it is anything but stagnant. Traditional dishes are robust, wholesome, and often born out of necessity. Žganci, a simple yet deeply satisfying dish made from buckwheat flour, has sustained generations of workers, while štruklji, delicate rolled dumplings filled with cottage cheese, walnuts, or tarragon, embody the country’s penchant for both sweet and savoury comfort. Stews are ubiquitous, from jota, a hearty mix of sauerkraut, beans, and potatoes, to bograč, a slowsimmered dish reminiscent of Hungarian goulash.

Yet Ljubljana is not only a city of time-honoured recipes – it is also a place where food adapts to modern tastes. The

city’s growing street-food culture is a testament to this evolution. Central Market, the beating heart of Ljubljana’s daily food trade, is where farmers, butchers, and cheesemakers showcase the country’s bounty. Among the stalls, one might find Slovenia’s famed sausage, klobasa, served with crusty bread and a dollop of fiery mustard, or burek, a flaky, cheese-filled pastry of Ottoman origin, enjoyed by locals at all hours.

Equally beloved is čevapčiči, a dish shared with Slovenia’s Balkan neighbours, featuring grilled minced meat, typically accompanied by flatbread and ajvar, a smoky red pepper spread. Meanwhile, ocvirki – crisp pork cracklings – find their way into everything from breads to hearty polentas. What makes Ljubljana’s street food remarkable is not just its variety, but its insistence on quality;

Stri č ek chef Blaž Marincelj

Ljubljana Castle Vineyard

Ljubljana Castle

Strelec

City view from Ljubljana Castle

even the simplest of bites reflect the same commitment to fresh, locally sourced ingredients that define the city’s finer dining establishments.

A NATION ROOTED IN WINE

To understand Slovenia’s gastronomic identity, one must first appreciate its wine culture. Despite its small size, Slovenia boasts an extraordinary viticultural tradition, with thousands of wineries producing some of the most compelling wines in Central Europe. Winemaking is not just an industry here – it is a way of life, seamlessly woven into the country’s identity.

Nowhere is this more evident than in the hills that surround Ljubljana. Even the city’s most iconic landmark, Ljubljana Castle, has its own vineyard, a nod to the capital’s historic relationship with viticulture. Though the Belpin and Rdečegrac grapes grown on the castle's 1,050 vines produce relatively little, they

are a testament to Slovenia’s deep-rooted connection to winemaking, and the castle's wines are popular. www.ljubljanskigrad.si/en

BEYOND THE CAPITAL, ONE OF the most revered names in Slovenian winemaking is Movia. Situated in the Brda region, Movia is more than just a winery – it is a philosophy. Founded in 1820, the estate is known for its biodynamic approach and an unwavering commitment to purity. Movia’s signature wines, from the luminous Lunar to the expressive Ribolla Gialla, embody an ethos of minimal intervention, allowing the land to speak for itself. And while charismatic owner of Movia winery, Aleš Kristančič, is the wild guy of Slovenian wine and almost certainly the country's most well-known winemaker, Kristančič is something of an oenological visionary and the 23 natural wines he produces are truly outstanding. https://movia.si

Stri č ek

Ana Roš

IMAGE:

TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

UNBEKNOWN TO EVEN SOME OF the most seasoned of gourmands, Slovenian wines, particularly its whites, have long been regarded as some of Europe’s best-kept secrets. Varieties such as Rebula, Malvazija, and Šipon express the nuances of their terroir with remarkable clarity. Meanwhile, the country’s orange wines (whites made using extended skin contact) have found an eager audience of sommeliers and collectors. With winemaking traditions that date back over 2,400 years, Slovenia is not merely following global trends,

it is reclaiming its place among the world’s great wine-producing nations.

PIONEERING A NEW CULINARY ERA

At the forefront of Slovenia’s contemporary food scene are chefs who honour tradition while challenging its boundaries. Few have done so with the same impact as Ana Roš, whose work at Hiša Franko has propelled Slovenian gastronomy onto the world stage. Selftaught yet fearless, Roš crafts dishes that are as poetic as they are precise, drawing from the rich bounty of the Soča

Valley. Her culinary philosophy is one of intuition and exploration, combining hyper-local ingredients with refined, unexpected techniques.

But Roš is not alone in redefining Slovenian cuisine. A new generation of chefs is shaping Ljubljana’s dining landscape, each with a unique approach to innovation. Whether embracing fermentation, championing indigenous ingredients, or introducing contemporary twists to rustic classics, these chefs are ensuring that Slovenia’s food culture remains dynamic, exciting, and utterly singular

Ales Kristan č i č of Movia

DINING IN LJUBLJANA: A CITY OF FLAVOURS

Tucked away in an unassuming corner of Ljubljana, Striček is a hidden gem where the city’s culinary heritage is celebrated with sincerity. Its menu is an ode to Slovenia’s rural traditions, featuring seasonal dishes that highlight local produce. From slow-cooked meats to inventive takes on humble vegetables, each plate tells a story of Slovenia’s agrarian roots while embracing a modern sensibility. Striček’s approach to dining is personal, welcoming, and above all, focused on flavour. Open from 6am 'til 6pm Monday to Friday only, and

owned and run by the Marincelj clan for three generations, the restaurant’s homely atmosphere allows guests to feel as though they are sitting down to a family meal, but one elevated by chef Blaž Marincelj’s expert but humble touch. Every dish is constructed to evoke nostalgia while still surprising the diner with unexpected flavour combinations. The simplicity of the menu is its charm, allowing the ingredients to shine. Whether it’s the rich flavours of locally sourced meats or the delicate freshness of seasonal vegetables, Striček is a celebration of the Slovenian land’s offerings. And the roasted veal liver is not to be missed!

www.stricekrooms-ljubljana.si

A MORE CASUAL YET EQUALLY intriguing venture from Ana Roš, JAZ is a vibrant expression of contemporary Slovenian cuisine. Located in the city centre, this restaurant plays with bold flavours and unexpected pairings, offering a menu that reflects Roš’s signature spontaneity. Here, you might encounter delicate river fish paired with fermented foraged herbs or a reimagined version of a traditional dumpling, proving that even the most familiar dishes can be transformed into something extraordinary. JAZ is a testament to Roš’s fearless creativity, where each dish challenges preconceptions while still maintaining

JAZ by Ana Roš

Movia Winery

IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN

IMAGE: NIKE KOLEZNIK

a deep respect for the region’s flavours. It’s a playful, modern take on Slovenian cuisine, yet it never loses touch with the authenticity that has come to define Roš’s work. https://jaz.anaros.eu

HOUSED WITHIN THE HISTORIC walls of Ljubljana Castle, one Michelinstarred Strelec blends medieval grandeur with avant-garde gastronomy to create a unique year-round dining experience, complete with panoramic views across the city. Talented chef Igor Jagodic crafts an experience that is both immersive and refined, weaving together historical influences with cutting-edge techniques. Dishes often feature wild

The Restaurant IMAGE: DEAN DUBOKOVIC

game, rare herbs, and forgotten grains, resurrecting centuries-old recipes while infusing them with contemporary flair. Diners at Strelec are treated not only to a fine meal but to a journey through Slovenia’s culinary history. The ambiance of the castle itself, combined with the restaurant’s modern approach to ancient recipes, creates an unparalleled dining experience. Opt for the five-course tasting menu with paired wines and every dish will surely impress.

www.restavracija-strelec.si/en

WITH A NAME AS UNASSUMING

as its exterior, The Restaurant is a masterclass in understated excellence. Nestled in the heart of Ljubljana, it is a sanctuary for those who appreciate precision and restraint. The menu is ingredient-driven, allowing each component to shine without unnecessary embellishment. From meticulously aged beef to delicately smoked river fish, every dish is a study in balance. The focus is on simplicity, allowing the natural flavours to speak for themselves. It is an ideal place for the discerning diner, where every detail – from the composition of a dish to its presentation – is honed to perfection.

www.therestaurant.si/en

THOUGH NOT IN LJUBLJANA

itself, three Michelin-starred Hiša Franko is a pilgrimage-worthy destination for any serious gastronome visiting Slovenia. Ana Roš’s flagship restaurant in the Soča Valley is a world unto itself, where ingredients are sourced from nearby meadows, rivers, and farms. The menu is a fluid narrative of the seasons, with dishes that evoke both the raw beauty and quiet elegance of the Slovenian countryside. Roš’s philosophy at Hiša Franko is one of deep connection to the land and its rhythms. Every meal tells a story, not just of the region’s produce but of its people, culture, and traditions. Each plate is a sensory journey, where flavours are not only tasted but felt, making it clear why Roš has garnered international acclaim. www.hisafranko.com

Chef Ana Roš at Hiša Franko

Hiša Franko

IMAGE: SUZAN

GABRIJAN

A BURGEONING CULINARY CAPITAL

With its rich tapestry of culinary influences, Ljubljana is rapidly cementing its place as a gastronomic destination. From the influences of its varied landscapes to the creativity of its chefs, the city offers a dining experience that is as diverse as it is unforgettable. The restaurants of Ljubljana and the surrounding regions showcase the best of Slovenian culinary heritage while pushing the boundaries of what food can

be. Whether in the intimate warmth of Pri Stričku or the cutting-edge creativity of Hiša Franko, a palpable sense of gastronomic excitement fills the air at every turn.

AT THE SAME TIME, THE CITY’S deep connection to its land and its wines – from the vineyards of Ljubljana Castle to the biodynamic practices of Movia – reminds diners that Slovenia’s culinary soul is deeply tied to its natural

environment. Ljubljana’s food scene is about more than just fine dining; it is about celebrating the flavours of a nation that has spent centuries refining its culinary craft. And for the modern traveller with a discerning palate, Ljubljana is a city well worth exploring –one dish at a time.

With thanks to Visit Ljubljana www.visitljubljana.com/en and the Slovenian Tourism Board www. slovenia.info/en/

Ales Kristan č i č of Movia

GRAND HOTEL UNION EUROSTARS

1 MIKLOŠIČEVA CESTA 1, LJUBLJANA 1000

NESTLED IN THE VERY HEART OF LJUBLJANA, JUST STEPS from the historic Triple Bridge connecting the historical medieval town on the southeastern bank with Prešeren Square, Hotel Union has been an enduring symbol of the city’s since its opening in 1905. Its foundations were laid at a time when Ljubljana was undergoing a transformation – an era of Austro-Hungarian grandeur, when the city embraced Art Nouveau flourishes and a growing sense of identity.

The hotel quickly became a social hub, welcoming a steady stream of aristocrats, artists, and dignitaries who passed through the Slovenian capital on their way to Vienna or the Adriatic coast. With its stately façade and refined interiors, it was a place where old-world charm met modern comfort, offering guests a taste of cosmopolitan luxury in an intimate, picturesque setting.

THROUGH THE DECADES, THE HOTEL BORE WITNESS TO THE SWEEPING changes of the 20th century, from the twilight of the empire to the rise of Yugoslavia and, ultimately, Slovenia’s independence. Yet, despite the passage of time, its spirit remained intact. The building itself has been lovingly

preserved and adapted, blending historic elegance with modern touches to ensure that it remains as relevant today as it was over a century ago.

MOST IMPORTANTLY FOR CULTURED TRAVELLERS, THE HOTEL'S LOCATION is unsurpassed. To step outside is to find oneself at the epicentre of Ljubljana – where cobbled streets lead to riverside cafés, the Baroque beauty of the Old Town unfolds in every direction, and the castle watches serenely from above.

Whether for a leisurely stay or a brief encounter with history, the Grand Hotel Union Eurostars remains an essential part of the city’s hospitality tapestry, and is the best base from which to explore the charismatic Slovenian capital. https://www.eurostarshotels.co.uk

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 49 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

A

AFRIKABURN

➤ www.afrikaburn.com

ARTYZEN SINGAPORE

➤ www.artyzenhotelsandresorts.com

ASIAMA GALERIE

➤ www.asiama.fr

B

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL

➤ www.brightonfestival.org

BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT

➤ https://burgenstockresort.com

C

CANAVES ENA

➤ www.canaves.com

CAPRI TOURISM

➤ www.capri.com

CASA BRERA

➤ www.casabrera.com

CASA LOMA BEACH HOTEL

➤ www.casalomalagunabeach.com

CHARLIE’S BAR & BISTRO

➤ www.charliesbar.lk

D

DAN KITCHENER

➤ www.dankitchener.com

E

EUROVISION SONG CONTEST

➤ https://eurovision.tv

F

F1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX

➤ www.bahraingp.com

FREE THE BEARS

➤ www.freethebears.org

G

GALLE LITERARY FESTIVAL

➤ https://galleliteraryfestival.com

GRAND HOTEL UNION

EUROSTARS

➤ www.eurostarshotels.co.uk

H

HAY FESTIVAL WALES

➤ www.hayfestival.com/wales

HIŠA FRANKO

➤ www.hisafranko.com

HOMM SOUVANNAPHOUM

LUANG PRABANG

➤ www.hommhotels.com

HOTEL MORRIS

➤ https://hotelmorris.com.au

I

ICONIC MARJORIE HOTEL

➤ www.iconicmarjorie.com

ITB BERLIN

➤ www.itb-berlin.de

J

JAZ BY ANA ROŠ

➤ https://jaz.anaros.eu

LLJUBLJANA CASTLE

➤ www.ljubljanskigrad.si/en

LONDON MARATHON

➤ www.londonmarathonevents.co.uk

LOST IN BAAN

➤ https://lostinbaan.com

LUANG PRABANG TOURISM

➤ www.tourismluangprabang.org

MMANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT

➤ www.banyantree.com

MANDALAO ELEPHANT

CONSERVATION

➤ www.mandalao.org

MAURO COLLAGRECO AT RAFFLES LONDON

➤ www.raffles.com/london

MOVIA WINES

➤ https://movia.si

PPAN PACIFIC ORCHARD

➤ www.panpacific.com

RRAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO

➤ www.raffles.com/london

ROLAND-GARROS

(FRENCH OPEN)

➤ www.rolandgarros.com

ROPEWALK BAR

➤ www.galleforthotel.com

ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG

➤ www.rosewoodluangprabang.com

SSAUSKA TOKAJ

➤ https://sauska.hu/en/tokaj

SINGITA KILIMA

➤ www.singita.com

SLOVENIAN TOURISM BOARD

➤ www.slovenia.info/en

SNOWBOMBING

➤ www.snowbombing.com

SOFITEL COTONOU

MARINA HOTEL

➤ https://sofitel.accor.com

STRELEC, LJUBLJANA

➤ www.restavracija-strelec.si/en

STRIČEK, LJUBLJANA

➤ www.stricekrooms-ljubljana.si

SWISSOTEL ULUDAG BURSA

➤ www.swissoteluludagbursa.com

TTHE BUNGALOW

➤ www.bungalowgalle.com

THE RESTAURANT

➤ www.therestaurant.si/en

THE SEBEL WELLINGTON

➤ www.thesebel.com

THE SUN HOUSE

➤ https://thesunhouse.com

THE TOKYO EDITION, GINZA

➤ www.editionhotels.com

THE TUNA & THE CRAB

➤ www.tunaandthecrab.com

VVALENCIA TOURISM

➤ www.visitvalencia.com

VISIT LJUBLJANA

➤ www.visitljubljana

MandaLao Elephant Conservation, Luang Prabang

IMAGE: JORDAN BROWN

suite with a view

GRAND MANDAI TREEHOUSE

MANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT BY BANYAN TREE ➤ SINGAPORE

SET WITHIN A 126-HECTARE integrated wildlife and nature reserve in northern Singapore, on the edge of the island nation’s bustling cityscape, Mandai Rainforest offers an enchanting escape into the lush embrace of Mother Nature, its emerald canopies and winding trails set against a gentle backdrop of exotic birdsong and rustling leaves. A world away from the city’s towering skyscrapers, the rainforest unfurls its secrets in quiet whispers, inviting guests to lose themselves in a place where nature reigns and the air is thick with the scent of damp earth and verdant foliage.

NESTLED WITHIN THE RESERVE AND conceptualised by award-winning WOW architects

with biophilic design at its heart, new 338-room Mandai Rainforest Resort by Banyan Tree occupies a 4.6-hectare site designed around mature trees, and seamlessly blends-in with its natural surroundings. Perched amongst the treetops overlooking the Upper Seletar Reservoir and merging effortlessly with the rainforest canopy, the resort’s Grand Mandai Treehouses draw inspiration from the seed pods of the handsome Purple Millettia trees which are indigenous to the region. Spacious, airy, and secluded, complete with a private outdoor space overlooking the lush surroundings, these unique treehouses provide the perfect escape from hectic city life and an opportunity to reconnect with nature.

www.banyantree.com