The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2024 Issue 45

Siem Reap

THE GATEWAY TO ANGKOR WAT’S INCREDIBLE TEMPLES

WASHINGTON, D.C. ➤ SHINTA MANI FOUNDATION

THE PUXUAN SUITE ➤ RUFUS WAINWRIGHT

LONDON’S BEST BRITISH RESTAURANTS

Detox & Regeneration

THE POWER OF THE MOUNTAINS, THE KNOWLEDGE OF MEDICAL EXPERTS, THE HEALING EFFECTS OF EUROPEAN AYURVEDA ®

.

Soft purification, revitalizing detox, and a healing new beginning - all with respect to our mantra „I feel really good!“ Our repeatedly awarded concept of European Ayurveda ® helps to balance body, mind, and soul. You will experience a unique time-out that is perfectly tailored to your needs. The holistic symbiosis of the medical experience and expertise of many years with the traditional Indian healing philosophy will turn your stay at the European Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof into an exclusive hideaway. Located in the middle of nature on the border between Tyrol and Bavariathe perfect energetic place for the path to a healthier life.

48 THE GATEWAY TO ANGKOR WAT’S INCREDIBLE TEMPLES

According to local folklore, the backdrop to the foundation of Cambodia’s second largest city is a saga of love and deceit, power struggles and battles. Today, Nicholas Chrisostomou discovers that Siem Reap, whose origins date back to 802 AD, is an alluring destination that straddles the best of two worlds – the ancient past and the vibrant present.

98 THE GENUINELY ORIGINAL SONGWRITER

To say that Rufus Wainwright was born into a musical family is something of an understatement. Today a true luminary of the contemporary music scene, The Cultured Traveller chats with the prodigious singer-songwriter, who, in an industry often plagued by conformity, continues to stand as a beacon of individuality and artistic brilliance.

116 STILL THE QUEEN OF CHIC

Born a penniless orphan in Saumur in August 1883, from opening a small millinery shop in Paris in 1910, Gabrielle Chanel created an iconic global fashion brand, that generated sales of more than USD 17 billion in 2022. Adrian Gibson visits the first UK retrospective solely devoted to the legendary French couturière’s work, at London’s V&A museum.

46 SOUTH AFRICA’S MOTHER CITY AWAITS

One lucky reader will check into the new Pullman Cape Town City Center for a three-night stay to enjoy everything that the charismatic ‘Mother City’ has to offer. Included in the stay are daily breakfasts, round-trip airport transportation, and a full-day sampling delectable South African wines in the Cape Winelands.

One of the 216 smiling faces of the Buddhist deity, Avalokiteshvara, which adorn the Bayon Temple in the Angkor Archaeological Park, Siem Reap

78

92

13

CONTENTS

8 CONTRIBUTORS

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

70

Awards season is upon us, together with the first of the year’s music festivals, and a number of notable cultural events are happening around the world in the coming months, including Hollywood’s night of nights, commonly known as THE OSCARS; the massive annual two-day rock and Latin American music festival, VIVE LATINO, held every spring in Mexico City; the Gulf’s leading equestrian event and the planet’s richest annual horse race, the DUBAI WORLD CUP; California's glossy, glam and sultry answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury, COACHELLA; the atmospheric Andalusian festival of FERIA DE ABRIL in Seville, and the ultimate Dutch party, held

annually in honour of King WillemAlexander’s birthday, KONINGSDAG.

28 REST YOUR HEAD

From a new two island Maldivian resort, purpose designed to provide every family’s dream getaway, to a stylish nature-focused boutique hotel in the southeast of Sri Lanka, on the edge of the island nation’s popular Yala National Park, The Cultured Traveller explores a dozen new properties around the world that each offer a unique stay experience in an enticing destination, including Auberge Resorts Collection’s new experience-driven BOWIE HOUSE, located in Fort Worth’s buzzing cultural district; celebrated fashion designer Anna Trzebinski’s tranquil retreat, EDEN NAIROBI, in the leafy suburb of Lang'ata; and elegant new HONEYROSE HOTEL, which embraces the vibrant energy of downtown Montreal’s cultural district, and transports guests back to the glorious 1920s.

112

70 SUITE ENVY

Overlooking the famed Forbidden City and deftly combining art, culture and hospitality within its contemporary walls, Nicholas Chrisostomou checks into a sprawling PUXUAN SUITE at the Ole Scheeren-designed PuXuan Hotel in Beijing, and enjoys a uniquely up-close-andpersonal connection with the ancient heart of the Chinese capital.

78 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

America’s capital positively hums with world class cultural offerings, beautiful green spaces and a burgeoning foodie and arts scene, making it one of the most delightful cities in the United States to visit. Alex Benasuli encounters iconic architecture and breathtaking vistas around every corner in WASHINGTON, D.C..

92 HOSPITALITY FOR GOOD

Empowering communities through education and sustainable development, and founded by hotelier Sokoun Chanpreda and designer Bill Bensley, the SHINTA MANI FOUNDATION has become a real beacon of hope for the underprivileged of Cambodia, and demonstrates how the hospitality industry can effect significant, positive change.

105 LONDON’S BRITISH RESTAURANT SCENE

Crammed with some of the world’s most iconic landmarks, the charismatic British capital never fails to deliver on every cultural level, particularly when it comes to its food scene. So, it’s a pleasure for The Cultured Traveller team to visit a selection of London restaurants, which standout for serving the best traditional, innovative and contemporary British cuisine. including THE PEM BY SALLY ABE, BERNERS TAVERN at The London EDITION, Adam Handling’s FROG in Covent Garden, and THE DRAWING ROOM at the new Raffles London hotel on Whitehall.

121 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 45 of The Cultured Traveller magazine.

122 SUITE WITH A VIEW

Situated in the world-famous Chianti wine region, waves of terraced hills provide the bucolic backdrop for COMO Castello Del Nero’s charming ochre-hued 12th century 740-acre castle estate, over which its COMO TERRACE SUITE looks out.

IMAGE: TONY HAUSER

CONTRIBUTORS

MIRANDA PENN TURIN

➤ PHOTOGRAPHED ➤ RUFUS WAINWRIGHT

A freelance photographer and director who has been specialising in portraiture, music, fashion and beauty for more than 30 years, Miranda was born in Boston, splits her time between New York and L.A., and shoots all over the world. Miranda is honoured to be the official photographer for Voices4Freedom – a humanitarian organisation committed to abolishing human trafficking.

ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ WROTE ➤ EXHIBITION REVIEW

For more than two decades, Adrian has worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of the world’s leading stores, in London and Dubai, including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new talent wherever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends.

ALEX BENASULI

➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ WASHINGTON, D.C.

London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa, as well as North and South America intimately. As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an off-the-beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Miranda Penn Turin, Adrian Gibson, Howard Healy

Alex Benasuli, Joe Mortimer

WITH THANKS TO

Shelley Sofier, David Stirling, Lee Sutton, Ewan Taylor

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté, London

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com

Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com

Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

➤ ISSUE 45

© 2024 Coco Latté. All rights reserved

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Download the digital edition of issue 45 of The Cultured Traveller magazine at ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/ 45

Follow The Cultured Traveller on @theculturedtraveller @culturedtraveller

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ. LONDON W2 1AY, UK

COVER: Angkor Thom, Angkor Archaeological Park, Siem Reap, Cambodia

SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM

FIVE-STAR LUXURY IN A UNIQUE HISTORICAL AMBIANCE

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers five-star luxury in a unique historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur, the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites (including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful Garden Terrace, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy the varied selection of dishes available at award-winning restaurant Bridges, Mediterranean Oriole Garden Bistro and on the beautiful Garden Terrace; an oasis of peace and tranquility, situated in the heart of the city. In the afternoon, you can withdraw to the Library ‘Or’ to enjoy The Grand Afternoon Tea, with or without a glass of champagne. If you are looking for the perfect place to unwind in the heart of Amsterdam, pamper yourself at Sofitel SPA with a beauty treatment or relax after a few laps in the pool.

EDITOR’S LETTER

SINCE THE START

countries that some of my (well-educated)

were alarmed to hear that I was visiting. None of the countries were blacklisted by the UK government. And experiencing their cultures was absolutely fascinating, not to mention eye-opening. But the surprising response from my peers, was an indication that the way certain places are perceived is having a serious impact on the decisionmaking of would-be travellers.

If everything we are fed as “news” is to be believed, in addition to one fifth of the planet currently being too dangerous to visit for one reason or another, we should also consider steering clear, as tourists, from a number of other countries. For instance, nations less tolerant to liberal religious beliefs or sexual orientation, or places where our lifestyle choices or willingness to question the status quo could cause problems. Although they are extremes, I would never suggest visiting North Korea or Iran, for example. Clearly, you would need to be a little unhinged to want to visit Kim Jong Un's or Ali Khamenei’s domains! But while I may not agree with the outlook of certain governments, or perhaps their traditions and values conflict with mine, surely these are some of the things that used to fascinate us most about travelling? Experiencing a completely different culture was, for decades, one of the main reasons why many of us jumped on planes to faraway lands in the first place.

IN ISSUE 45 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER, we visit two thriving cities which are poles apart in almost every way. One was planned from its very inception, in the 18th century, and is dominated by politics. The other was founded by settlers at the turn of the ninth century and tourism is its lifeblood. The facets of the American

capital of Washington, D.C., and the Cambodian city that Angkor created, Siem Reap, could not be more different, but both are equally enticing to travellers for very different reasons (pages 78 and 48)

A TRUE LUMINARY OF THE contemporary music scene and a beacon of artistic individuality, singer-songwriter, Rufus Wainwright, chats about his new musical, amongst other things, complete with photography by the talented Miranda Penn Turin (page 98). Adrian Gibson visits the first UK retrospective solely devoted to the legendary couturière Gabrielle Chanel’s work (page 116). And Bill Bensley talks to us about the foundation he co-founded 20 years ago, that has become a beacon of hope for the underprivileged in Cambodia (page 92)

PACKED WITH INSIGHTFUL ARTICLES AND culture-rich pieces, I hope that this issue of The Cultured Traveller broadens your horizons and gives you some insights into distant lands that perhaps are not so far away at all.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com

From left to right: Rufus Wainwright; Angkor Wat in Siem Reap; Washington, D.C.; Gabrielle Chanel

OF 2024, I have travelled to a few

friends

A five-star urban destination with a rebellious twist, SO/ Uptown Dubai represents an avant-garde world of visionary design and covetable style, tied closely to art and fashion. Partnerships and ongoing programming will connect SO/ Uptown Dubai with the wider fashion industry, as it supports and hosts existing and emerging talent. The hotel features 188 design-led rooms and statement suites, which merge a fashion-forward outlook with indulgent elements.

THE 5-STAR LUXURY DESTINATION TO KNOW

Uptown Tower, First Al Khail Street

M. +971 48 20 8888 | booksodubai@so-hotels.com

news

STANDOUT FESTIVALS, AWARD CEREMONIES AND FASCINATING CULTURAL EVENTS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD IN THE COMING MONTHS

BRIT AWARDS

ONE OF THE UK’S most prestigious music award ceremonies and almost always an unforgettable night filled with electrifying performances and well-deserved recognition for an array of exceptional artists, the annual Brit Awards is a celebration of the best of British music and a testament to the incredible talent that continues to shape the industry, recognising every year the hottest new pop stars as well as honouring musical

legends who have made a significant impact. This year, London-born singer-songwriter Raye made history with a record-breaking seven nods, the most nominations ever received by any female artist, following the 2023 release of her long-awaited debut album, My 21st Century Blues . Raye parted ways with her record label, Polydor, after claiming in a series of tweets that she had been held back from releasing her debut album.

2 March 2024

https://www.brits.co.uk

THE OSCARS

BEAMED AROUND THE planet from the evocatively named Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, and Broadcast live on ABC on “Oscar Sunday”, Hollywood’s night of nights, popularly known as the Oscars, is a prime opportunity for some serious star gazing, people watching and gossiping. From the moment nominations are announced through to the glitzy ceremony itself, the fortunes of nominees often swing up, down and sideways, depending on everything from box-office numbers to shifting cultural and political winds. By the time the actors, actresses, filmmakers, directors and celebrities alike strut and pose on the red carpet for the 96th Academy Awards – which have recognised excellence in cinematic achievements since 1929 – those in the know will have already set themselves up in style and comfort at the Beverly Wilshire hotel in the heart of Beverly Hills, or The Polo Lounge of the Beverly Hills Hotel, both of which have been the favoured haunts of the Hollywood elite for decades. Where will you be watching the Oscars?!. 10 March 2024

https://oscars.org

Raye

COMBAT DE REINES

IN THE MIDDLE OF spring, the mountains and valleys of southern Switzerland are full of the sound of cowbells. And the cows, newly released from their winter stables, yearn for a tussle, push and shove each other, and lock horns trying to establish who is the strongest of the herd. A traditional event held primarily in the canton of Valais, dating back to the 1920s, Combat de Reines ('Battle of the Queens’) is a series of head-to-head fights of cows (not bulls), which sees farmers enter their strongest cows into the competition, in the hope of winning the strongest cow title and a beautiful cowbell. Regional elimination heats are held from the end of March, culminating in the crowning of the queen at the national final in April. Similar events take place in Savoie and Haute-Savoie in France and in the Aosta Valley in Italy.

March - April 2024

www.valais.ch/en

VIVE LATINO

STARTED BY OCESA

more than twenty years ago, Vive Latino is a massive, annual two-day rock and Latin American music festival held every spring in Mexico City, this year at the Autódromo Hermanos Rodríguez, which is close to the center. Music lovers pack the venue on both days, endlessly moving, clapping, singing and rocking to the beats of a line-up of more than one hundred acts playing a variety of sounds spanning every Latino music genre. Yet while Vive Latino primarily pays homage to Latin American musicians, bands and singers, the festival also regularly features international artists on its multiple stages, and Grammy award-winning American rock band Kings of Leon will be making a special appearance this year. Hailing from Nashville, Tennessee, the band formed in 1999, is composed of brothers Caleb Followill, Nathan Followill and Jared Followill, with their cousin Matthew Followill, and is responsible for some of the biggest indie anthems of the past two decades.

16-17 March 2024

https://vivelatino.com.mx

ST. PATRICK’S DAY

ST. PATRICK’S DAY

has been an official Christian feast day in Ireland since the early 17th century. Held to commemorate Ireland’s patron saint and the arrival of Christianity, legend has it, that the association with shamrocks and the "wearing of the green”, hark back to Saint Patrick’s use of the three-leaved plant to explain the Holy Trinity to the pagan Irish. Celebrated today in more countries than any other national festival, is an indication of the far-reaching influence of the Emerald Isle’s expatriate population. However, there’s nothing like experiencing St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland itself, where the public holiday is the climax of a long party. The official festival – established by the Irish government decades ago – includes four days of street parades, concerts, céilithe (traditional music sessions), theatre performances and fireworks. While the best place to be immersed in the revelry is undoubtedly Dublin, cities, towns and villages throughout Ireland hold their own parades and festivals. 17 March 2024

https://stpatricksfestival.ie

CHERRY BLOSSOM SEASON

ONE OF THE MOST COLOURFUL events of the year in Japan and locally known as hanami , enjoying the blooming of cherry blossoms ( sakura ) in the island nation’s parks and countryside is an important and ancient Japanese tradition.

Mid-March - Early April 2024

CUMBRE TAJÍN

EVERY MARCH, IN the central Mexican state of Veracruz close to the ancient pre-Hispanic ruins of El Tajín, once the ancient capital of the Totonac Indians, the vibrant and colourful festival of Cumbre Tajín brings to life this historic part of Latin America while preserving and promoting the heritage of the Totonac people. With the Totonaca culture pivotal to the festival, the commitment of Cumbre Tajín is to promote and preserve the indigenous traditions that have made Mexico such a unique destination for travellers. A veritable cultural celebration, this event seduces visitors with its primal traditions, national and international music, plus a range of immersive, family-friendly activities

featuring everything from ancient customs to regional dancing, gastronomy, puppet shows, healing arts and many forms of artistic expression, including traditional acrobatic spinning los Voladores de Papantla

20-24 March 2024

ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL

FREQUENTLY

namechecked one the world’s best festivals by DJ Magazine, David Guetta, Hardwell, Steve Aoki, Armin Van Buuren and Tiësto are just some of the DJ superstars who will be headlining one of the industry’s favourite electronic dance music events, when it explodes in Miami’s Bayfront Park over the last weekend of March. Bayfront Park spans 32 acres of downtown Miami and sits right on beautiful Biscayne Bay, making the location for Ultra Music Festival pretty much unrivalled. This year’s line-up sees the return of Calvin Harris after a 10-year hiatus from the festival. Harris hasn't performed at Ultra's Miami festival since 2013. The Scottish DJ and producer has worked with many of music's biggest stars including Rihanna, Katy Perry, Pharrell, Dua Lipa and more. Martin Garrix will also be taking the main stage. With the exception of 2018, the Scared to Be Lonely artist has been an UMF headliner since his debut in 2014. 22-24 March 2024

https://ultramusicfestival.com

SEMANA SANTA

EASTER IS THE MOST celebrated of religious festivals in Colombia and the country’s majority Catholic population gets this underway with Semana Santa , or holy week. Beginning just before Easter at the end of Lent, a variety of events commence on Tuesday through to Holy Saturday, culminating with a Good Friday parade depicting the passion of Christ prior to his crucifixion. Located in the south of the country and punctuated by more churches per inhabitant than any other city in Colombia, historic Popayán is

F1 ROLEX AUSTRALIAN GRAND PRIX

THE SECOND OLDEST surviving motor race in Australia (after the Alpine Rally), the Australian Grand Prix is held at Melbourne’s famous Albert Park Grand Prix Circuit and is the third round of the packed 24-race 2024 season, after Bahrain and Saudi Arabia. Albert Park is an exhilarating circuit for drivers and spectators alike, because it boasts a thrilling combination of fast straights and demanding slow speed turns with multiple overtaking opportunities, with several spots on the track where the drivers

regarded as the nation’s ‘Religious Capital’. Consequently, it hosts huge processions and musical shows in its town centre and churches throughout the week, with crowds from near and far flocking to the area to revel in the country’s rich cultural traditions. Popayán was also Latin America’s first UNESCO World City of Gastronomy, with an array of tasty seasonal food and snacks served throughout Semana Santa. Visitors can also join post-procession celebrations, or attend concerts performed by local and international musicians.

24-31 March 2024

require a well-sorted chassis to allow them to throw their cars into a corner. Melbourne is also one of the faster tracks on the calendar, with Lewis Hamilton’s 2019 pole lap set at an average of over 235km/h. Australia’s cultural capital and often included on lists of the world’s best cities, Melbourne boasts an eclectic nightlife, tantalising food and wine and a dynamic arts scene, and steps up a few gears when Formula 1 rolls into town, making it a vibrant metropolis for a city break.

22-24 March 2024

www.australia-grand-prix.com

DUBAI WORLD CUP

ATTRACTING THE CREAM

of Dubai society as well as international glitterati, and held in arguably one of the world’s most ostentatious cities, the Gulf’s leading equestrian event and the planet’s richest annual horse race is as much about being seen as it is a tribute to the beauty of Arabian horses. The Dubai World Cup meeting is the culmination of 15 meetings held during the 2023-24 season, including the new-look Dubai Racing Carnival, during which more than 100 horses conditioned by dozens of trainers

hailing from a variety of countries will have competed for the prestigious prizes on offer. The main event at Meydan Racecourse on 30th March will see USD 30.5 million presented to the winners of the day’s nine races, made up of eight thoroughbred races and one Purebred Arabian race. To date, the after-race concert has been headlined by some of the pop world’s biggest names, so this year’s finale will likely be no exception. And the day’s proceedings will naturally conclude with a massive firework display.

30 March 2024

https://dubairacingclub.com

THE BIBA STORY

THIS FASCINATING exhibition, at London’s Fashion and Textile Museum, explores how fashion phenomenon Biba blossomed into the world’s first lifestyle label, and sparked a revolution in how people shopped.

22 March - 8 September 2024 https://fashiontextilemuseum.org

COACHELLA

CALIFORNIA'S GLOSSY, glam and sultry answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury, held at the Empire Polo Club in the Colorado Desert over two consecutive weekends, Coachella is the first major international music event in the annual festival calendar. Essentially a massive, well-organised cultural playground, hosting up to 100,000 people at any one time, Coachella is attended by sweaty fashionistas, designer hippies and musical trendsetters. Known for its

show-stopping all-star line-up and breathtaking large-scale art installations, the 2024 roll call for this veritable Indio music fest is no exception. This year’s headliners have deep Southern California ties, and are led by singer-songwriter Lana Del Rey, who tops the bill on both Fridays of the festival, while the much-loved Orange County band, No Doubt, will be reuniting to play for the first time in nearly a decade. Rapper-singers Tyler, the Creator, will headline the Saturdays, and Doja Cat the Sundays. 12-14 + 19-21 April 2024 https://coachella.com

THE NAGOL (LAND DIVING)

THIS ANCIENT annual ritual – not for the faint hearted – is essentially the precursor to 21st century bungee jumping. On Pentecost Island in a remote part of the South Pacific, brave men and boys of the Sa tribe hurtle towards the ground headfirst from wooden towers of up to thirty metres tall. With nothing more than tree vines tied around their ankles and no safety equipment whatsoever, they plummet groundward at speeds of more than 40mph, praying that their vine is just the right length. During the preparation period, the men seclude themselves from the women of the tribe and refrain from all sexual activity. Before diving, tribal members on the ground sing and dance in an effort to help the divers be brave. Since the vines act as bungee cords, each diver is invited to build his own platform and select his own vine so that no one else can be blamed if a fatal accident occurs! If a vine is too short, the diver will crash into the tower. If it’s too long, he will almost certainly break bones or possibly even perish.

Saturdays in April, May, June 2022

SONGKRAN

DERIVED FROM THE Sanskrit word sankrānti and also known as Thai New Year or the Thailand Water Festival, Songkran was originally a way for Thai people to sprinkle water on their family members and elders to bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to images of their beloved Buddha, and was held on dates that were dependent upon the Thai lunar calendar. Today, Songkran is commemorated on the same days every year, and has transitioned into a countrywide festival which sees pretty much everyone let their hair down and have fun in friendly water fights and street parties that last nearly a week, held during what is often the hottest month of the year in Thailand. The streets of Bangkok particularly teem with locals and visitors soaking each other with buckets of water, hoses, water guns and anything that they can basically get their hands on to drench each other!

13-15 April 2024

BOHAG BIHU

SOUTH OF THE EASTERN Himalayas along the Brahmaputra and Barak River valleys, Assam is bounded to the north by the kingdom of Bhutan and the state of Arunachal Pradesh, to the east by the states of Nagaland and Manipur, to the south by the states of Mizoram and Tripura, and to the west by Bangladesh and the states of Meghalaya and West Bengal. Famed for its tea plantations, wildlife, national parks and plethora of archaeological sites, three times a year, Assam celebrates important non-religious Bihu festivals, the first of which, Bohag Bihu, is the most important.

On the first day of the Hindu solar calendar, marking the Assamese New Year, Bohag Bihu celebrates the arrival of spring weather and is essentially a rice sowing festival to honour the fertility goddess Krishna, cattle and elders. Feasting, dancing, musical performances and other events feature, while children don flower-garlands and walk the streets welcoming the new year.

14-20 April 2024

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL

SYMBOLIC OF AMERICAN

West culture and dating back centuries, cowboys are synonymous with Texas and California. Even today, from South Texas’ mesquite trees to the Panhandle’s open prairies, there are cowboys hard at work. Every year, about thirty minutes north of Los Angeles, the city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the world’s biggest cowboy gatherings, which celebrates the state’s western heritage. Established since 1994, this action-packed cowboy festival routinely attracts thousands of loyal attendees for its multiple live music stages, authentic western activities, trick ropers, gun spinners and magicians, gold panning and hatchet throwing, as well as living history exhibits and an array of stalls selling Western gear. And the festival’s Dutch oven peach cobbler is reputedly so tasty that it has earned a reputation of its own!

20-21 April 2024

https://cowboyfestival.org

FERIA DE ABRIL

FLAMENCO AND MUSIC are inherent to this atmospheric annual Spanish festival, which began life in 1847 as a livestock fair, drawing farmers and merchants from all over Andalusia to Seville, to sell and trade their animals.

14-20 April 2024

https://visit-andalucia.com

AFRIKABURN

WHILE NOWHERE NEAR as large as its mother event, Burning Man, AfrikaBurn is most definitely a festival rising in popularity, that's attracting more and more visitors every year, since being founded in 2007. The festival is the spectacular result of the creative expression of participants who gather to create a temporary city of art, themed camps, costume, music and performance, with some of the temporary structures burnt towards the end of the event. Held in a semi-desert environment

at Quaggafontein in the Tankwa Karoo National Park, in South Africa’s Northern Cape Province, the site is around 400 kilometres from Cape Town and far from civilisation, so you've really got to want to be there to make the trek. An onsite 'gift economy' means that there is no commercial exchange at the event at all – no vending, no cash bars and no branded promotion of services or products – the aim being real social interaction. Essentially, AfrikaBurn is a 21st Century festival exercise in total self-reliance. 29 April - 5 May 2024 www.afrikaburn.org

VALLENATO LEGEND FESTIVAL

A MELODIC FESTIVAL where both South and North American artists convene, as they have done since the late 1960s, the Festival de la Leyenda Vallenata is one of the most important musical gatherings in Colombia and presents audiences with a variety of meringue, folk, paseo and other Latino music. The four-day festival is held in the city of Valledupar, which is located between the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and the Serranía del Perijá mountain ranges, within a region of diverse temperatures and terrains. Shows at the Vallenato demonstrate how the music of farm-folk, African slaves and European settlers of the city’s past, influenced and manifested into the Latino sound we associate with the continent today, with the accordion featuring characteristically throughout. Dancers are seen parading the streets, and awards are given in contests for songwriting and musicianship within various styles of music, that include best accordion player and best new Vallenato song.

30 April - 4 May 2024

www.festivalvallenato.com

FRIEZE NEW YORK

THE AMERICAN COUSIN of Britain’s most important annual artistic happening, Frieze New York has become one of the foremost contemporary art fairs stateside, showcasing works by hundreds of artists. The Big Apple incarnation is fun, colourful and as much of a social event for locals and overseas visitors as it is a serious art market for dealers and curators. Here the pleasure is attending, people watching, exploring the art and discovering talented newcomers beyond the

TRUJILLO NATIONAL CHEESE FESTIVAL

WITH THE FOURTH largest consumption of cheese in the world, Spain’s intense love of cheese is demonstrated by the hundreds of Spanish cheese makers who gather together annually every spring for the mammoth Trujillo National Cheese Festival, which is reputedly the largest in the world. Held in Trujillo, in the Cáceres region of Spain, the festival features more than three hundred varieties produced by artisan cheese makers, providing visitors with an opportunity to try many rare types of cheese that are not found

outside of the Extremadura region. During the course of the four-day festival, thousands of foodies descend upon the town's historic main square, Plaza Mayor, which is transformed into a colourful cheese village. Awash with the smells of local and national cheeses, here visitors sample cheeses, eat and drink in one of the many restaurants, and generally feast on the finer culinary things in life. Dozens of booths in the square also offer tastings, talks and all manner of cheesy treats. .

1-5 May 2024

https://formaggiastic.com

obvious well-known pricey names. Held at The Shed cultural center adjacent to the High Line in west Manhattan (pictured), this year’s Frieze New York will bring together the world’s leading galleries to showcase ambitious solo, group and themed presentations by pioneering artists, and will not only offer an opportunity to discover up-and-coming talent, but also engage with some of art history’s most important figures.

1-5 May 2024

www.frieze.com/fairs/frieze-new-york

PROCESSIONE DEI SERPARI

ITALY’S ANNUAL PROCESSION of Serpents (also known as the ‘Snake Festival’) is held in celebration of Saint Domenico, for miraculously removing serpents from farmers' fields in the Italian region of Abruzzo in the 11th century. Domenico – an Umbrian abbot who lived in Cocullo for around seven years, towards the end of the 10th century – became associated with this event when he left the town one of his teeth, which is kept, to this day, as a holy relic in the local church. Ever since, the faithful have believed in the saint's powers to protect

teeth and heal snake bites. This unique festival is also said to originate from the ancient worship of // Angitia//, a Roman goddess of snakes who is worshipped by people in central Italy. Every year, the people of the small, medieval town of Cocullo, in the Province of L’Aquila in Abruzzo, catch four types of harmless snakes which are then draped over a wooden statue of Saint Domenico. More and more snakes are added until the statue is almost completely covered, at which point it is carried through the streets, held high in the centre of a long procession.

2 May 2024

The Shed

KONINGSDAG

A NATIONAL HOLIDAY AND THE ultimate Dutch party held annually in honour of King WillemAlexander’s birthday, Koningsdag is renowned for being one of the biggest and most colourful festivals in the Netherlands, especially in Amsterdam (pictured).

27 April 2024

www.holland.com

rest your

➤ LHAVIYANI ATOLL ➤ FORT WORTH ➤ VAL D’ISÈRE ➤ NAIROBI ➤ MONTREAL

➤ IBIZA ➤ PARIS ➤ BUDAPEST ➤ CHICAGO ➤ YALA NATIONAL PARK ➤ ST. JULIAN’S ➤ EDINBURGH

JAWAKARA ISLANDS

HOME TO COUNTLESS SPECIES OF MARINE LIFE AND COMPRISING 54 islands, Lhaviyani Atoll (also known as Faadhippolhu Atoll) is located in the northern region of the beautiful Maldives, 145 kilometres north of Malé, the capital, with its international airport. A picture postcardperfect combination of tranquility and adventure, four of the atoll's islands are inhabited and home to around 12,000 residents. The remainder of the atoll consists of luxury resorts, uninhabited islands, sandbars, lagoons, coral reefs and white sand beaches. Lhaviyani is famed for Kureddu Caves, a dive site known locally as the Turtle Airport for its large population of green sea turtles, often seen alongside soldier fish, stingrays, big napoleons, porcupine fish, lion fish, moray eels, scorpion fish and more.

Located in Lhaviyani Atoll, new Jawakara Islands resort combines two islands - Mabin and Dheru - linked by an over-sea walkway, in one 290-villa property purpose designed to be every family’s dream destination for a luxury getaway. Focused on family friendly experiences, every detail has

been carefully considered to provide an all-encompassing luxury multi-generational Maldivian vacation.

Mabin is home to 202 villas while Dheru is home to 88, all of varying sizes and configurations, ranging from entry-level Beach Villas, to three-bedroom Beach Pool Villas which sleep up to eight people.

Guests can choose to have an action-packed holiday including surfing, diving and water sports, or enjoy a much more relaxed break, spent in the resort's two spas. One spa features eight double treatment rooms and is located in Mabin’s tropical jungle, while the other spa, with its six treatment rooms and yoga retreat, sits above the crystalline waters of Jawakara lagoon.

Dining caters to all tastes and pockets and ranges from a buffetstyle all-day-dining venue, to a high-end á la carte Asian-Pacific restaurant, and everything in between, providing options for every family member. An upscale fast-food outlet even offers innovative takes on classic comfort dishes.

https://jawakara.com

head

FROM A NEW TWO ISLAND MALDIVIAN RESORT, PURPOSE DESIGNED TO PROVIDE EVERY FAMILY’S DREAM GETAWAY, TO A STYLISH NATUREFOCUSED BOUTIQUE RESORT IN THE SOUTHEASTERN REGION OF SRI LANKA, ON THE EDGE OF THE ISLAND NATION’S POPULAR YALA NATIONAL PARK, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS OUT A DOZEN NEW PROPERTIES AROUND THE WORLD THAT EACH OFFER A UNIQUE STAY EXPERIENCE IN AN ENTICING DESTINATION

BOWIE HOUSE, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION

BACK IN THE 1800S, WHEN MILLIONS OF CATTLE ROAMED wild Texas' land and ranches, Fort Worth was the middle stopping point on the long journey to the railways and markets in the Midwest and beyond. After the railroad came to Fort Worth in 1876, it became a playground for both cowboys and infamous outlaws. They came to town to enjoy the rowdy riches of the booming local livestock exchange, which earned the city its nickname of “Cowtown”. Today Fort Worth is a large, modern metropolis with plenty of cowboy charm offering an authentic Texas experience. And despite the exploding growth of the past few decades, and a bustling corporate downtown, Fort Worth's Stockyards National Historic District - the part of town that reflects Texas’ past - has remained largely the same. Here, you'll still find remnants of a bygone era, including weekly rodeos, music-filled honky-tonks, and a working herd of hometown cattle, plus new museums, trendy restaurants and watering holes.

Auberge Resorts Collection’s new experience-driven luxury hotel, Bowie House, opened its design-led doors late last year in Fort Worth’s energetic cultural district, just a few miles west of downtown on Camp Bowie Boulevard, close to three world-class art museums, whose collections span the entire history of art across many cultures.

A luxury urban retreat, Bowie House merges the classic Western personality of Texas with a decidedly modern feel, and deftly captures the city’s approachable sophistication, cultural vibrancy and equestrian spirit. The hotel is also a love letter to the community - a living room for visitors and locals alike, if you will. The hotel’s supper club style spin on Texan cuisine in its three dining and drinking venues, luxurious day spa, and unique experiences with a Texan soul - from private dining at The Modern Art Museum to donning a custom Nick Fouquet hat - offer discerning globetrotters an opportunity to revel in and appreciate every facet of this burgeoning metropolis. While each of the property’s 88 Studios, 12 Lofts and 6 Suites - several with open-air balconies - are imbued with the warm spirit of the West, and many enjoy beautiful views over the Cultural District or lush courtyard gardens.

www. aubergeresorts.com

A true local experience for inspired cosmopolitans

ÉTOILE DU NORD

LOCATED IN FRANCE'S UPPER TARENTAISE VALLEY NEAR

the Italian border, Val d’Isère is one of the world's most prestigious winter-sports destinations, renowned for its extensive ski area and challenging off-piste terrain, high-quality accommodation and very lively après-ski. Perfect for keen intermediates and advanced-level skiers and snowboarders, yet also a popular mainstream resort, Val d’Isère is best suited to those of intermediate to advanced ability, although the wide range of terrain in its extensive ski area means it can successfully cater for all ability levels. Combined with nearby Tignes, a Tignes - Val d'Isère ski pass provides access to over 300 kilometres of slopes and exceptional off-piste. And Val d’Isère’s position at a snow-sure altitude of 1,850 metres makes the resort a sound choice for anyone planning a late-season ski trip.

Over the years, Europe’s largest luxury chalet specialist, Bramble Ski, together with its luxury arm, Haute Montagne, have systematically elevated the traditional skiing holiday to new heights, with a variety of tailored mountain experiences suited to every discerning traveller, and a collection of more than 150 chalets and apartments in some of Europe’s finest alpine resorts.

The latest chalet to join Haute Montagne, Étoile du Nord consists of two impressive and contemporary adjoining chalets located in the heart of Val d’Isère.

A decade in the making, Manuel Nogueira of London-based AndArchitects led the project, in collaboration with interior designer, Nickie Dobree. Using contemporary design principles to reinterpret the traditional chalet, no corner of high-spec Étoile du Nord was overlooked. From dramatic floor-to-

ceiling seven-metre windows that front both wings, to full-height marble slabs lining bathroom walls, bespoke furnishings, and thoughtful detailing crafted by talented local artisans, the overall rural-chic design of Étoile du Nord is standout in Val d’Isère.

The east wing of Étoile du Nord sleeps up to 14 guests in seven bedrooms, while the west wing sleeps another 14 guests in six bedrooms, including bunk rooms for teenagers or young children. Guests can indulge in luxurious spa areas, enjoy movie nights in private cosy cinemas, expend excess energy in games rooms, swim in indoor/outdoor swimming pools and soak in multiple hot tubs. And a 24-hour concierge service and private chefs are on call to attend to guests’ every need.

https://www.etoiledunord.fr

IMAGES: PHILIP VILE

EDEN NAIROBI

KENYA’S BUZZING UP-AND-COMING CAPITAL OF NAIROBI is fast becoming one of the African continent’s hippest destinations. Traditional and creative, the city is also rich in culture and history, whilst being modern and edgy, all at the same time. From its ritzy suburbs to the busy central business district, Nairobi is a multi-faceted city worth exploring, and an array of incredible wildlife experiences beckon just a short distance from the CBD. Indeed, Nairobi is the only major city in the world where you can see lions, giraffes and rhinos, courtesy of its national park, which offers the usual game drives, plus overnight stays at a tented camp. nairobitentedcamp.com

Located in the leafy, upscale suburb of Lang'ata, south-west of the city’s CBD bordering the Ngong Forest, which is teeming with Kenya’s natural flora, Eden Nairobi feels much like a tranquil retreat, hidden away amidst lush grounds populated by chirping birds and surrounded by lush botanicals. Occupying the former family home built by Tonio and

Anna Trzebinski, the boutique hotel is today something of a living museum, punctuated by around 200 paintings, ceramics, and sculptures, collected throughout a lifetime, making it a mustsee for travellers interested in art, design and authentic Kenyan cultural artefacts.

Presided over by a team of incredibly warm and hospitable staff, which makes everything feel accessible and comfy, every one of the nine rustic-chic guest bedrooms was individually fashioned by celebrated fashion designer Anna Trzebinski herself, and is lovingly decorated with hand-picked objets d'arts and artworks. These include a cottage, created for artists seeking inspiration from Eden, or guests staying for longer to get a complete immersion in contemporary Nairobi. Meanwhile a stylish bar and a beautiful restaurant overlook an idyllic lake and are surrounded by a giraffe sanctuary, which can be accessed via a separate entrance for walks.

www.eden-nairobi.com

IMAGES: JERRY RILEY

HONEYROSE HOTEL

A VIBRANT METROPOLIS NESTLED IN CANADA’S FRENCHspeaking province of Quebec, that beckons travellers with its unique blend of European charm and North American flair, Montreal offers a kaleidoscope of experiences that inspire and entertain, making it a prime destination for discerning cultured travellers. From the charming cobblestone streets of Old Montreal to the city’s bustling art scene and captivating architecture, Montreal offers visitors a rich history, diverse culture and an exceptional culinary scene brimming with new restaurants and happening bars. With nearly 100 multi-day events each year, Montreal is truly a city of festivals. The city’s beautiful neighbourhoods simply ooze charm. And vibrant street art splashed across buildings adds to the creative vibe for which Montreal has long been celebrated.

Embracing the vibrant energy of downtown Montreal’s cultural district, located in the city’s Le Quartier des Spectacles, new 143-room Honeyrose Hotel deftly takes guests back in time, courtesy of its vintage, art deco-inspired aesthetic that evokes a glorious earlier era, recalling 1920s grandeur.

Contemporary public spaces, replete with accents of velvet, gold and rich timbers, provide an enveloping warmth. At the core of the hotel’s captivating design are nods to honey – a symbolic evocation of a golden gift from nature – and rose – a French flower that signifies passion and love. The combination of these two elements help to create an enchanting hospitality

experience, together with a wealth of laid-back luxuries adorning its three sizeable restaurants, grand ballroom, 15th-floor indoor pool and in-house shops. And throughout the hotel, spaces are enlivened by the works of local artists displayed in visually striking fashion, including Roxy Peroxyde’s paintings hanging on the walls of guest rooms, and pieces by set designer Juliette Sarrazin in Muze Lounge & Terrasse, which features a Californiainspired menu of delectable market fresh fare. www.marriott.com/yultx

MONDRIAN IBIZA

LOCATED NEAR SANTA EULALIA ON SPAIN’S FAMOUS WHITE Isle, the small, picturesque town of Cala Llonga is surrounded by pine-covered hills that seemingly melt into its sandy cove and more than 200 metres of beach.

Widely considered to be the best natural harbour on Ibiza’s east coast and one of the island’s most idyllic locations, whilst Cala Llonga may only be a 20-minute drive from happening Ibiza Town, this sheltered, chilled-out spot feels a world away from the island's renowned club scene. Calm and shallow crystal-clear waters are ideal for swimming; the surrounding landscape offers plenty of opportunities for exploration and hiking; the beachfront is dotted with an array of restaurants and cafés, and a range of water sports provide entertainment for adventure enthusiasts.

Rooted in art, design and culture, the stepped white façade of 154-room Mondrian Ibiza is a striking new addition to Cala Llonga – one of Ibiza's cherished coastal gems.

Spanish design studios Beades Architects and Cuarto Interior embraced organic forms to create an Ibithincan incarnation of design-led Mondrian’s signature style. The immersive entrance appears to be carved from nature itself, with nooks for modern seating and art. An intimate reception area draws guests into the building via vivid blue walls and flooring and a reflective gold desk that sits in vibrant contrast. And close to the lobby, day-to-night lounge Sun & Moon is a central gathering place boasting plush seating, artful interiors, and walls of windows that look out onto the shimmering sea.

The hotel’s palpable light and airy sensibility is carried through to its

spacious guest rooms and suites, each of which is a serene interpretation of the local landscape. Woven headboards and chairs, sculptural lighting, and clean-lined furnishings create the feel of a retreat. Many rooms have private balconies offering seductive views. And three onsite pools provide equally captivating vistas, with plentiful space to gather, play and bask in the Spanish sun.

www.mondrianibiza.com

LA FANTAISIE

PARIS' BUSY 9TH ARRONDISSEMENT HAS LONG BEEN A classic destination for visitors. Extending from the Opéra Garnier in the south to the foot of Montmartre in the north, it is renowned for its Belle Epoque beauty, imposing Haussmannian buildings holding court over wide avenues and grand boulevards, elegant department stores, large theatres, hilly residential streets and village-like atmosphere in parts. Brimming with bohemian charms and hidden gems and jammed with secret museums, quirky galleries and vibrant cafés, the 9th arrondissement is popular with bon viveurs and upwardly mobile young households and is hence home to trendy micro neighbourhoods where creative juices positively flow.

Renowned Swedish designer Martin Brudnizki’s first foray into the Parisian hotel scene, opening in mid-2023 in the heart of Faubourg-Montmartre in the 9th arrondissement, new boutique hotel La Fantaisie is located on architecturally eclectic Rue Cadet, which is a relatively small yet bustling street punctuated by elegant 19th century apartments and cute shops.

Something of a bucolic refuge in the centre of the City of Lights, the project involved the complete overhaul of former 1970s L’Opéra Cadet hotel, and included transforming an underground car park into an urban spa and rejuvenating the historic courtyard garden created by acclaimed 16th Century gardening brothers, Jacques and Jean Cadet, after whom the street was named. The result is a maximalist and somewhat decadent hospitality retreat, drawing upon nature as its chief inspiration.

Tapping into the local rhythm and opening out onto Rue Cadet, yet providing a total disconnection from the hustle and bustle of the urban environment outside, Fantaisie is not just a destination for international travellers, but a meeting place for in-the-know locals and connoisseurs of the area. And via its 63 rooms and 10 suites, guests are transported into a dreamlike world thanks to the use of rich upholstery, lavish headboards and ornate walls and ceilings bedecked in floral wallpaper.

www.lafantaisie.com

IMAGES: J É ROME GALLAND

DOROTHEA HOTEL

SOMETHING OF AN EVOLVING UNFINISHED SYMPHONY,

exuding grandeur and ceremony citywide, a long and chequered history has dealt Budapest more than its fair share of highs and lows. But the long-buried story of Hungary’s epic history is once again being told, courtesy of grassroots producers, resurgent winemakers and an aspirational population breathing new life into the Hungarian capital. Of course, tourism has for a long time opened the doors to travellers from across Europe, many of whom have discovered Hungary’s rich cultural heritage for the first time. But today, real estate developers and hoteliers are queuing up to breathe new life into resplendent old buildings, three of which are occupied by the swish new Dorothea Hotel.

The vision of acclaimed architect and designer Piero Lissoni, and named after Archduchess Maria Dorothea, who was an influential character in Hungary in the 1800s, Dorothea Hotel is the result of painstakingly merging three historical buildings in the very center of the city in Belváros-Lipótváros, otherwise known as District V. The political, financial, commercial and touristic hub of Budapest, as a visitor, you simply could not wish for a more central location in the Pest side, from which to explore the city.

Despite the 216-room property’s size, the hotel skillfully and gently evokes the charm of Hungary’s golden age, and feels very much like a city centre sanctuary where the grand past merges with the contemporary present, and the capital’s bustling streets are left behind once past the main doors, resting amongst the majestic columns in the foyer, seemingly in Dorothea’s embrace.

Guest rooms and suites are divided into two design categories, contemporary and heritage, with the former characterised by a soft beige

colour palette with orange accents, dark timber flooring and peacock blue curtains. Located in the oldest Weber building and identifiable by doors sporting portraits of women from the 1800s, heritage rooms are more elegant and subtle, with four-poster beds. At the heart of the hotel is a vast enclosed inner courtyard, which stretches from the ground floor towards the sky and is topped by a cavernous glass roof. An airy architectural triumph, the lush space is home to Pavilon Restaurant & Bar, where guests sip curated cocktails and dine on modern interpretations of Hungarian cuisine fashioned from fresh locally sourced ingredients. Complete with a chic bar and delicatessen on street level, and a sprawling sanctuary-like full-service subterranean spa, with an indoor pool, sauna, steam room and a very well-equipped gym, it is easy to spend an entire day and night in Dorothea’s company without venturing outside the hotel at all. www.dorotheahotel.com

1051 Budapest, Dorottya utca 2.

THE ST. REGIS CHICAGO

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE UNITED STATES, CHICAGO

IS a cultural crossroads where urban buzz meets Midwestern friendliness, soaring architecture meets pristine sandy beaches, and an array of international cultures come together in the city's 77 neighbourhoods. A truly year-round city-break destination, from world-class museums and award-winning restaurants, to a thriving live music scene, vibrant street art and a plethora of green space, not to mention some of the world’s best music festivals, there is literally something to do in every season.

Designed by world-renowned architect Jeanne Gang of Studio Gang, the 101-storey Vista Tower that’s home to The St. Regis Chicago, is the thirdtallest building in the metropolis and something of an architectural marvel which will forever change the Windy City’s skyline.

Inspired by the geometry of the frustum - a form that exists in nature, specifically in crystal, fluorite and sapphire formations - the key to the design of the tower, or its particular “building block” if you like, is a 12-storey truncated pyramid. Stacked and nested, right-side up and upside-down, the frustums form the tower’s flowing volumes, and this unique geometry has created a tall building with eight corners instead of four, providing inhabitants with daylight and fresh air from multiple sources, while also providing green space atop the building’s various heights, and reflecting the colours of Lake Michigan and the Chicago River in its facades.

Throughout the hotel’s multiple public-facing areas, including a

sumptuous spa, the interiors draw inspiration from Chicago’s rich architectural history, with metallic materials and colours, such as copper and rust, interwoven with geometric, angular lines, offering a nod to The Great Chicago Fire and the city’s geographic interconnectivity of waterways, buildings and green spaces.

Conceived by Gensler, the hotel’s 159 guest rooms and 33 suites across 11 floors offer a place of respite and rejuvenation, thoughtfully executed in a palette of natural stone and wood finishes, which both creates a connection to nature and juxtaposes minimalistic design with spectacular views.

www.stregischicago.com

HILTON YALA RESORT

LOCATED 300 KILOMETRES FROM THE CAPITAL OF COLOMBO and covering some 979 square kilometres bordering the Indian Ocean, Yala National Park is situated in the southeastern region of the island nation and is the most visited national park in Sri Lanka.

Yala was designated as a wildlife sanctuary in 1900 and is best known for its important conservation of Sri Lankan elephants, Sri Lankan leopards and aquatic birds. The park is also home to sloth bears, deer, monkeys and buffalo.

In the heart of Yala sits the ancient Buddhist monastery of Sithulpawa, believed to date back to 2nd Century BC. The monastery straddles a collection of rocky outcrops deep in the heart of the park and there are said to be hundreds of caves and shelters in and around the complex, that housed monks for centuries in years gone by.

Nestled on the edge of Yala National Park, Hilton’s third property in Sri Lanka is a sanctuary of wellness and enriching experiences, which encourages guests to embark personal journeys of mindfulness and self-discovery. Surrounded by lush greenery overlooking the Indian Ocean, Hilton Yala Resort provides an elevated escape offering immersive and rewarding experiences which deftly showcase the park’s beauty and are designed to immerse guests in the wonders of nature, beginning with the resort's striking architecture and its outdoor pool, which blends seamlessly with its breathtaking surroundings.

42 stylish rooms, suites and villas feature contemporary interiors decorated in neutral tones with safari chic accents and local artworks.

Large windows draw the eye to the resort’s natural surroundings, which are home to an abundance of flora and fauna. Ground floor rooms feature

private pools, while those on the level above offer private hot tubs, providing a serene space for guests to unwind after a game drive.

The protection of Yala’s biodiversity and environmental sustainability are key to Hilton Yala Resort’s ethos, with the property having been designed to ensure the utmost care for the surrounding environment, ecosystem and local communities. This extends to the resort’s environmentally responsible safari offerings. Locally trained rangers and wildlife experts ensure that guests experience the best of Yala National Park via personalised, twice daily game drives which are dedicated to conveying a sense of awareness and appreciation of the Yala’s wildlife and ecosystem. www.hiltonyalaresort.com

AC HOTEL ST. JULIAN’S

ONCE A SMALL FISHING VILLAGE, TODAY ST. JULIAN’S

IS A buzzing coastal town packed with hotels, eateries, bars and clubs on Malta’s northern coastline, a short drive from the capital of Valletta. Renowned as Malta’s entertainment capital, St. Julian’s is a hive of activity surrounded by the shimmering sea. A town where history blends with contemporary vibes, while San Giljan (as it’s known locally) retains much of the typical Mediterranean culture inherent in the Maltese islands, for those looking for a lively vacation experience, St. Julian’s is a vibrant base from which to explore everything that Malta has to offer.

Located in the heart of St. Julian’s town, within close proximity to beaches and restaurants, new design-led AC Hotel St. Julian’s opened last year on a quiet lane, just a stone's throw from St. George's Bay. Designed by Italian architects Fabris & Partners, the hotel is unfussy, sleek and elegant, deftly juxtaposing form and function, with a traditional Maltese colour palette running throughout its public spaces, leisure facilities and guest rooms. Indeed, the extensive incorporation of calming colours and natural materials within the hotel, evoke a strong sense of place and a genuine connection to the locale.

106 modern guest rooms and suites feature plush bedding, coffee machines and a thoughtfully designed workspace, and guests can unwind on the hotel’s rooftop, where creative cocktails and moreish tapas are served poolside, complete with panoramic vistas of St Julian’s skyline and the Mediterranean. www.ac-hotels.com

St. Julian’s, Malta

W EDINBURGH

THE CENTERPIECE OF A GBP 1 BILLION REDEVELOPMENT

of the former St James Centre in Edinburgh, and the result of a design competition that saw five international architecture firms present their visions for the new retail-hotel-housing St James Quarter, W Edinburgh’s central 12-storey Ribbon Building features a striking, freeflowing exterior façade, conceptualised as a bundle of ‘coiled ribbons’.

Designed by Jestico + Whiles and bold to say the least – seemingly crafted from a winding bronze-coloured ribbon of steel – the building has been likened to spirals of paper, in reference to the many printing presses which occupied surrounding areas in times past. For some, the

eye-catching building evokes the fun and festival spirit of Edinburgh and is a positive new landmark in the heart of the city. For others, poking above Edinburgh's historic skyline and puncturing the city’s beloved panorama as the building does, has caused outrage. But whichever you look at the new W Edinburgh, there are almost certainly no finer views in the city than from the hotel’s top floor terraces, which offer guests breathtaking 360-degree views from Arthur’s Seat to the North Sea. And igloos on the roof allow guests and locals to enjoy the incredible views whatever the weather.

https://www.marriott.com

WIN

CHECK INTO THE NEW PULLMAN CAPE TOWN CITY CENTER FOR THREE NIGHTS TO ENJOY EVERYTHING THAT THE VIBRANT ‘MOTHER CITY’ HAS TO OFFER. INCLUDED IN THE STAY ARE DAILY BREAKFASTS, ROUND-TRIP AIRPORT TRANSPORTATION, A THREE-COURSE DINNER IN THE HOTEL AND A FULL-DAY WINE TOUR IN THE CAPE WINELANDS

spend a long weekend in vibrant cape town

CAPE TOWN’S SPECTACULAR location at the northern end of the Cape Peninsula, in the shadow of Table Mountain, with near-vertical cliffs falling into the cold waters of the Atlantic to the city's west, and the warmer Indian Ocean waters to the city’s east, make for an inimitable setting unmatched by any other metropolis on the African continent. Coupled with stunning surrounding scenery and fringed by gorgeous beaches and miles of magnificent coastline has made the ‘Mother City’ a very popular tourist destination for decades.

5-star Pullman Cape Town occupies a soaring architecturally standout building in the city's central business district, within walking distance of Bree and Long Streets and a multitude of excellent restaurants, and the V&A Waterfront is five minutes’ away by taxi. The hotel encompasses restaurants and bars, a fitness centre and an urban haven-like pool deck. The hotel’s modern 214 rooms and suites enjoy 24-hour in-room-dining, beds laid in luxury linens, oversized bathrooms with walk-in showers and stunning vistas of Table Mountain and Lion’s Head.

https://pullman.accor.com

REAP SIEM

THE GATEWAY TO ANGKOR WAT’S INCREDIBLE TEMPLES

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EXPLORES THE CAMBODIAN CITY DATING BACK TO THE NINTH CENTURY, THAT HAS, IN RECENT YEARS, BECOME AN ALLURING DESTINATION, STRADDLING THE BEST OF TWO WORLDS - THE ANCIENT PAST AND THE VIBRANT PRESENT

ACCORDING TO LOCAL FOLKLORE, the backdrop to the foundation of the northwestern Cambodia city of Siem Reap is a saga of love and deceit, power struggles and battles. Its name literally meaning 'Siam defeated’ – which is itself a constant reminder of the centuries-old conflict between the Siamese and the Khmer – many believe that Siem Reap, the origins of which date back to 802 AD, is intrinsically connected with the ancient encounters between the Thai and Cambodian kingdoms. Modern historians disagree, but everything about Siem Reap is as intriguing as its backstory.

Today the city attracts visitors with tantalising dining, colourful cafés, stylish boutiques, friendly residents, and one of the best food scenes in Southeast Asia. Marry these with a relaxed river-town atmosphere and a plethora of sophisticated luxury hotels, and you have all the makings of an alluring destination, and something of an Asian gem, which is pleasantly gritty around the edges. Of

course, the marvels of Angkor Wat are one of the main reasons for visiting this part of the world. But cultured travellers are increasingly spending time exploring the facets of the city that Angkor created, and for good reason.

FOR DECADES SOMETHING OF A CROSSROADS where explorers, archaeologists and adventurous globetrotters stayed, ate and grabbed a few beers between visits to Cambodia’s ancient Angkor Wat temple complex, the Siem Reap of today is a lively metropolitan melting pot of artists, designers, performers, hospitality veterans and travellers, together with a genial expat community that adds a warm zest to the place.

Traditional arts and crafts have been revived and a number of praiseworthy initiatives help vulnerable children find their voices through art, performance and circus. Local artists are constantly experimenting with new means of creative expression. And if you’re something of a foodie, Siem Reap’s food scene will undoubtedly excite

Aspara Dancers Bayon Temple

Siem Reap

Cambodian kids at Angkor Wat

you (as it does me) with its variety and authenticity. Whether or not the temple ruins, some seven kilometres north of the city center, are on your itinerary, Siem Reap is the perfect place to pit-stop for a culture-infused city break whilst in Southeast Asia.

IF YOU HAVE NEVER VISITED THE TEMPLES of Angkor Wat - collectively known as the Angkor Archaeological Park - seeing the sun slowly rise behind the largest religious monument in the world is an unmissable experience, at least once, for the reflection cast on the pond in front of Angkor Wat is a stunning sight, and the massive temple looks sublime silhouetted against the rising sun and a pinky-orange sky. And right now the morning crowds are much, much smaller than pre-pandemic levels. But whether or not you catch the sunrise, Angkor Wat and the other

Angkor temples are still incredible at any time of the day.

A tuk-tuk will get you to Angkor Wat in 20-25 minutes and the park opens at 5am. But by far the coolest way to see Angkor’s wonders, is to ride pillion on an Italian scooter, courtesy of a curated and accompanied Vespa Adventures sunrise tour. Whizzing around reduces the amount of walking, in what can be an incredibly hot, humid and sticky country. And after sunrise, you can explore many more monuments and hidden ruins in Angkor Archeological Park by avoiding the busy roads and tourist buses, and using jungle trails and hidden laneways to travel from temple to temple much more quickly than on four wheels. https://vespaadventures.com

While in the park, it would be a crime to miss the pyramid temple of Bayon, which is dedicated to Buddha and located within what was once the great Khmer city of Angkor

at the heart of angkor thom and originally called jayagiri , bayon, with its 216 huge smiling faces, was the central state temple of jayavarman vi

Thom, built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman

VII. At the heart of Angkor Thom and originally called Jayagiri, Bayon was the central state temple of Jayavarman

VI. Epitomising the creative genius (and perhaps inflated ego) of Cambodia’s most celebrated king, its 54 towers are decorated with 216 huge smiling faces of the Buddhist deity Avalokiteshvara - a Khmer cultural and spiritual beacon, radiating compassion and unity. Visit Bayon in the morning or late afternoon for the best light on its serene stone faces.

You can usually hit all the major sights in the park within seven, maximum eight hours, if you’re on the back of a Vespa, and next you should visit Ta Prohm, about a kilometre east of Angkor Thom.

Built in the late 12th and early 13th centuries in the Bayon style and originally called Rajavihara, Ta Prohm was dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII, and is one of the few temples in the Angkor park where

inscriptions provide information about its dependents and inhabitants. Almost 80,000 people were required to live in or attend at the temple, including more than 2,700 officials and 600 dancers. A temple of towers, enclosed courtyards and narrow corridors, built without mortar, much of Ta Prohm is impassable today, clogged by huge stone blocks dislodged by enormous banyan tree roots growing out of the ruins. This, and being featured in the 2001 film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, has made Ta Prohm one of the most popular temples in the park, and something of a reminder of the power of the jungle.

Also built in the Bayon style in the late 12th and early 13th centuries, the painstaking two-year restoration of Ta Kav Gate was completed in 2023, making the west gate of Angkor Thom worth seeing before leaving the park. Long overlooked due to decades of wear and tear wreaking havoc on its façade, the structure had almost become a ruin, due

Ta Prohm Temple

to deterioration stemming from not only its age and Cambodia’s climate, but also from roots and vegetation penetrating the gate. The three-headed elephant structures at the gate's four corners are standout, as are the large carved Brahma faces which crown the structure.

SPENDING WHAT IS ESSENTIALLY A FULL DAY

in the Park before lunchtime, clambering around temples and ruins in the heat, is an exhausting business whichever mode of transport you opt for. So, after visiting Angkor Wat, chill-out by a hotel pool, unwind and recharge, and perhaps have a soothing spa treatment.

If you are lucky enough to be staying in one of the ten individual Bensley Collection Pool Villas at Shinta Mani Angkor hotel in the Old French Quarter, you can luxuriate in your private pool, before getting ready in your chic

CITY FOCUS

SIEM REAP

monochrome haven, for a night out at the circus!

https://shintamani.com/angkor

FOUNDED IN 1994 BY NINE ARTISTIC Battambang students, who were fuelled by a belief in art's transformative power, Phare Ponleu Selpak began by offering free drawing classes to disadvantaged young people. Before long, their initiative evolved into a multifaceted creative hub, offering formal education from kindergarten to 12th grade, and professional training in the performing and visual arts. From all of this creativity, one key program soon emerged, which was to provide jobs to graduates and generate revenue to fund the non-profit school: Phare, The Cambodian Circus.

Much more than a conventional acrobatic circus, the performers create and perform stories based on their own

Phare Circus

Old French Quarter

Ta Kav Gate

IMAGE: NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

IMAGE: OYEN

RODRIGUEZ

if you have never visited the temples of angkor, strolling around the largest religious monument in the world is an unmissable experience

CITY FOCUS

SIEM REAP

life experiences. Drawing from recent history, folklore and modern society, they cleverly blend drama, dance, live music and circus arts from the heart, in an attempt to share a piece of themselves with audiences. This they achieve beautifully. And given that the performers come from unimaginably difficult social and economic backgrounds, watching a Phare performance is dazzling, entertaining and emotional in equal measure, and an experience which should not missed while in Siem Reap. https://pharecircus.org

AFTER THE CIRCUS, HEAD INTO THE CITY’S

Old French Quarter, near the Siem Reap River, for some entertainment of a very different kind. Officially named Street 8 and running parallel to Sivatha Boulevard, Pub

Street is packed with eateries, bars, shops and hawker stalls. Very much the heart of the city's nighttime economy and probably one of Cambodia’s best-known party destinations, it’s fun to walk the street and people-watch, en route to eating at a less noisy and more civilised venue!

If you’re in the mood for some bartering, hundreds of brightly lit shops make up the Angkor Night Market, next to Pub Street, selling everything from Khmer art to jewellery, handicrafts, lacquerware and souvenirs.

Unpretentious, busy and centrally located nearby, on the corner of Street 2 and Street 9, Khmer Kitchen may be basic and unfussy but its food is tasty and flavourful. Very well established in Siem Reap, the staff are friendly and helpful and here you can dine inexpensively (and swiftly) on authentic Cambodian cuisine. Start with Fried Spring Rolls and Khmer

Shinta Mani Angkor Hotel

CITY FOCUS

SIEM REAP

since it was once an important buddhist shrine, monks travel from across cambodia, and from all over the world, to visit angkor wat

CITY FOCUS SIEM REAP

Dumplings and follow with the Khmer Curry or homemade Khmer Kitchen Soup, the latter made with your choice of fish, chicken, pork, beef, shrimp or tofu. www.khmerkitchens.com

FROM SAVOURY SOUPS AND STIR-FRIES TO grilled meats and sweet pancakes, street food in Cambodia is every bit as wide-ranging and appetising as that of Thailand, with fish sauce an essential ingredient in Khmer cuisine, replacing salt in almost every dish.

Typically eaten for breakfast or an afternoon snack, and quintessentially Cambodian, foodies will definitely want to sample Num Banh Chok, ideally at one of the villages outside the city center, where many families still freshly make the rice noodles by hand, before topping with fish-based yellow kroeung gravy and tossing with a variety of farmed and foraged greens and herbs before eating.

Traditionally made with fish, Amok is another popular Cambodian dish. The fish is marinated in a mixture of spices and coconut milk before it’s steamed

in banana leaves. The resulting fragrant and flavourful dish is enjoyed with rice or noodles.

To escape the tourist traps and be taken to select street food vendors at off-the-beaten-track locations around Siem Reap, book a guided food tour with Lost Plate for a unique experience that simply cannot be replicated on foot. Accompanied by a guide deeply rooted in the city, if you have the energy on your first evening in Siem Reap, a Lost Plate food tour will both orientate and satiate you in one go, and give you an overview of Cambodian food culture, with hotel pick-up and drop-off included if you’re staying in the center. https://lostplate.com

AFTER BREAKFAST, GRAB A TUK-TUK AND HEAD southeast of the city towards Veal Village, which is where one of Siem Reap’s hidden cultural gems is located. Committed to keeping Khmer art alive, and promoting traditional arts and crafts to the younger generation, Lim Muoy Theam was born in Cambodia, but fled to France as a young boy during the Khmer Rouge era, where he studied interior design and art at the Ecole des Beaux-

Angkor National Museum

Wat Bo Temple

Royal Independence Gardens Theam’s Gallery

IMAGE: NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

Arts in Paris. Today, the renowned Cambodian artist lives and works at Theam’s Gallery, which is essentially a living museum, galleries and gardens. Theam's trademark lacquer pieces capture moments in the lives of ordinary Cambodians, from farmers herding cattle to monks collecting alms, juxtaposing the beauty and mundanity of daily life in Cambodia. A tranquil Khmer cultural experience, allow time to browse, pause and soak in the atmosphere at Theam’s, for the gardens are truly beautiful. https://theamsgallery.com

AROUND 40 MINUTES’ DRIVE FROM THEAM’S, heading out of town, Tonlé Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia and one of the most diverse, fertile and productive ecosystems in the world. Designated a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1997, the lake is home to numerous floating villages, as well as the 31,000-hectare Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary, which is one of the region's most important breeding grounds for endangered water birds. Tonlé Sap changes in size with each season, and is at its largest during monsoon

(May to October), when the floating villages lining the lake teeter just above the water on stilts, including homes, shops, restaurants, schools and even hospitals. If you decide to visit the lake, head to Kompong Phluk for a less touristy experience.

BACK IN SIEM REAP, A VISIT TO THE ANGKOR

National Museum provides a glimpse of the Khmer empire’s art and culture, and is a good place to break the day and browse its galleries for an hour, in air-conditioned comfort, before heading back outside. The 1,000 Buddha Gallery is standout, featuring a late 12th-century Sumedha Hermit statue of Buddha lying prone, which is one of the museum’s most rare artefacts.

https://angkornationalmuseum.com

From the museum, it’s barely a 500-metre walk to the compound of the former royal residence and lovingly maintained adjacent Royal Independence Gardens. It was within the royal residence that King Sihanouk and General Lon Nol plotted Cambodia’s independence from the French in the 1950s.

Tonlé Sap

CITY FOCUS

SIEM REAP

Claycult Studio

Louise Loubatieres

The Little Red Fox Espresso

Located just west of the royal residence is the Preah Ang Chek Preah Ang Chorm religious shrine, containing the sacred statues of two Angkorian princesses, which were originally housed within the 1000 Buddhas Gallery at Angkor Wat. The statues were moved all over Siem Reap to protect them, eventually settling here in 1990. Locals throng to the shrine to pray for luck, and it is an atmospheric place to visit around dusk, when the incense swirls and bats living in the surrounding trees begin to stir.

At the other end of the gardens is the sprawling Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, built in the 1930s in the French Art Deco style and brimming with hospitality history, complete with one of the most beautiful swimming pools in the city. www.rafflessiemreap.com

SIEM REAP’S UNDERLYING CREATIVE VIBE IS

NOT only evident in the city’s performers and artists, but also in its blossoming shopping scene, which is punctuated by 250-metre Hap Guan Street, a little south of the Old French Quarter. Once an inconspicuous run of bland shophouses, today the street has been revitalised and re-branded Kandal Village and is home to an eclectic mix of funky, individually owned and run businesses which includes galleries, fashion boutiques, homewares shops and one of the city’s best cafés. Allocate a couple of hours towards the end of your stay in Siem Reap to shop for beautifully designed and handcrafted contemporary gifts at Louise Loubatieres’ gorgeous store louiseloubatieres.com and pit stop at The Little Red Fox for an award-winning Lemongrass & Ginger Latté, deftly encompassing two of Cambodia’s most traditional flavours. https://thelittleredfoxespresso.com Up the road, pick-up some certified Kampot Pepper, organic teas and local spices to take home, at KHLA. www.epices-khla.com And if you’re feeling peckish, Italian restaurant, Mamma Shop, serves an array of authentic homemade pasta dishes.

A CITY OF AWE-INSPIRING TEMPLES, DELICIOUS

food, tranquil waterways, fascinating galleries and museums, positively oozing culture and artistry from every pore, Siem Reap is nothing short of a Southeast Asian cultural jewel. Upbeat, largely English speaking and easy-to-navigate, Cambodia’s second-largest city embraces travellers like old friends and makes visiting the Angkor Archaeological Park a positive and stressfree experience, enabling travellers to make incredible new memories, and relax and enjoy Cambodia, its warm people and the Kingdom’s genuine hospitality.

Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor

BENSLEY COLLECTION POOL VILLAS

JUNCTION OF OUM KHUN & 14TH STREET, SIEM REAP

NESTLED WITHIN THE LABYRINTHINE STREETS OF SIEM REAP, between the Royal Independence Gardens and the Old Market area, the city's Old French Quarter is a time-worn enclave steeped in historical resonance and punctuated by an array of architectural gems. Evoking a bygone era of colonial charm, this district serves as both an enduring testament to Cambodia’s multifaceted past and an illustration of Siem Reap’s happening present.

The origins of the Old French Quarter can be traced back to the late 19th century, when French colonialists established a foothold in the region, and the area emerged as a hub of cultural exchange and commercial activity. Today, akin to stepping back in time, its streets are adorned with colonial-era mansions and quaint cafés, exuding an air of European sophistication, and the atmosphere tells tales of the city’s transformative journey, while the buildings stand as silent witnesses to Siem Reap’s storied past.

Located in the leafy heart of the old French Quarter and lovingly fashioned by renowned architect and interior designer, Bill Bensley, Shinta Mani Angkor hotel and its Bensley Collection Pool Villas offer a uniquely warm and inviting design-led hospitality experience, just steps away from the river and within walking distance of many of the city centre’s main cultural attractions and shopping, including the Angkor National Museum and Kandal Village’s boutiques.

The main hotel contains more than 100 guest rooms and suites in a variety of configurations, suitable for everyone from single travellers and families to couples seeking space to unwind in luxury, amidst Bensley’s trademark maximalist design style, which works rather well in Cambodia’s colourful second city.

On-site culinary offerings include the excellent Kroya restaurant, which showcases authentic Khmer cuisine with a contemporary twist, presented inside a gorgeous dining room bedecked with architectural detailing, or outside at oversized suspended tables. Not to be missed is the 26-day butter-aged beef tenderloin, prepared //lok lak// style and served with a pair of soft-boiled sous vide eggs and a moreish Kampot lime and pepper sauce. We soon find out, that having such an excellent restaurant in the hotel, offering reasonably priced top-notch fare, is most welcome after a full day of visiting temples!

A no-brainer for the refined, discerning traveller, the ten individual Bensley Collection Pool Villas each enjoy a private nine-metre lap pool and complete privacy, and provide a uniquely sophisticated and modern stay experience in Siem Reap.

Roomy, spacious and secluded, surrounded by lush botanicals and tall trees, each 150 square metre villa is a chic monochrome haven of inside-outside spaces, including a rooftop lounge complete with an oversized day bed, and connected glass-walled bathroom and dressing

areas which blur the lines between the villa and outdoors. Indeed, it’s hard to resist taking a bath in the show-stopping stone tub, and showers are something of a tropical experience. But what sets apart Bensley Collection Pool Villas from other luxury lodgings in Siem Reap, is the excellent round-the-clock WhatsApp-connected butler service afforded to villa guests. Efficient but in no way intrusive, having a butler on call is priceless in Siem Reap, especially when ordering room service, arranging a massage in the hotel’s sanctuary-like spa, booking tickets for Phare Circus, or coordinating transportation, in one of the hotel’s SUVs, to head out-of -town on an excursion. Nothing is too much trouble for the hotel’s bevvy of super-polite and well-trained butlers, and pool villa rates include a range of benefits which make staying at Shinta Mani Angkor a dream hospitality experience. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU https://shintamani.com/angkor/

THE PUXUAN SUITE

➤ THE PUXUAN HOTEL AND SPA, BEIJING, CHINA

suite envy

DEFTLY COMBINING ART, CULTURE AND HOSPITALITY, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS INTO A TRANQUIL SUITE OVERLOOKING THE FORBIDDEN CITY, THAT ALSO PROVIDES UNIQUELY UP-CLOSEAND-PERSONAL CONNECTIVITY TO THE ANCIENT HEART OF THE CHINESE CAPITAL

suite serenity in the heart of beijing

FEW HOTELS IN BEIJING, IF ANY in fact, afford its in-house guests such up-close-and-personal connectivity to the ancient heart of the Chinese capital, together with its impressive history, that The PuXuan does. And guests staying in one of the hotel’s four presidential-like PuXuan Suites enjoy the extraordinary opportunity to wake-up and take breakfast in the privacy of their serene lodgings while gazing directly at the rooftops of the legendary Forbidden City; sip tea in the privacy of their own tea room, on eye level with landmark Wanchun Pavilion atop Prospect Hill in regal Jingshan Park, and observe

the sun setting over the old Imperial City from the comfort of their beds, with the skyline of Beijing City in distance. Indeed, when I check into a PuXuan Suite at the state-of-the-art PuXuan Hotel for a four-day stay, it takes some time for what is laid out before me on a panoramic platter, to actually sink in. And thence begins my Beijing immersion and Forbidden City experience.

LOCATED AT THE INTERSECTION OF WANGFUJING Street and WuSi Street, within a stone’s throw of the National Art Museum of China and 20-minutes’ walk from the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, The PuXuan is a designer hotel symbolically juxtaposing

commerce, art and hospitality, contained within an eyecatching, landmark, mixed use building.

Designed by internationally acclaimed German architect, Ole Scheeren, who was also responsible for Beijing’s striking CCTV Headquarters, the hotel and art centre below occupy the place where China’s New Cultural Movement originated after the Qing Dynasty, thus inhabiting a unique site straddling the past, culture and business in a synthesis of Beijing’s heritage and future. Deftly embedded in the historic fabric of central Beijing despite its somewhat unique appearance, the hotel forms part of a hybrid institution between museum, event space, cultural lifestyle centre and cosmopolitan retreat for travellers and locals alike, the latter offering a true oasis in the very heart of the city. The building is also integrated into the city’s public transport infrastructure, with a subway station just metres from the hotel’s entrance.

EMBODYING THE CITY’S TRADITIONAL URBAN fabric, thriving metropolitan energy and burgeoning art scene, below the hotel, the Guardian Art Center stages and accommodates auctions and exhibitions throughout the seasonal arts calendar, often expanding its cultural programming into a range of diverse events and symposiums. Essentially an adaptable art complex for exhibitions and events, the seamless integration of The PuXuan hotel and its restaurants and spa into the same building as the world’s first custom-built auction house, creates an all-encompassing lifestyle concept centered on the experience of art, culture and hospitality in slick, modernist surroundings which celebrate a contemporary design aesthetic throughout. Both the building’s mixed uses and the neighbourhood’s ancestral heritage were cleverly incorporated into Scheeren's design for the art centre and hotel. Paying respectful yet contemporary homage to one of the capital’s most important and

distinct quarters, the architecture carefully inscribes the building into its surrounding context, yet stands out for its cutting-edge design and modernity.

ONE OF BEIJING’S MOST DISTINCTIVE

architectural features is its hutongs. Narrow lanes with old houses on each side where Beijingers still live, many of them elderly, hutong living is unique to China, and in recent years there has been a shift to preserve and restore these old structures.

Immediately behind the building that contains the Guardian Art Center and PuXuan Hotel is ancient CuiHua Hutong, which dates back to the Ming dynasty and is one of the city’s oldest hutongs. In the dark grey stone-like panels which wrap the lower half of the building, Scheeren's design acknowledges the hutongs’

importance to the city and references the scale of nearby hutong houses. The panels are perforated by several thousand circular openings, which were generated by projecting the legendary shan shui / (natural scenery) painting, created by the Yuan dynasty painter Huang Gongwang, Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains, onto the building's facades, thereby creating a subtle light filter through an abstracted landscape silhouette.

THE LUMINOUS REFLECTIVE UPPER PORTION

of the building, which is home to The PuXuan, responds to the larger scale of the surrounding contemporary city in the form of a floating ‘ring’ that creates an inner courtyard and gardens, and further resonates with the prevalent typology of Beijing’s hutong houses. Formed of blue translucent glass bricks, this upper rectilinear

volume contains The PuXuan's 92 guest rooms, 24 suites, multiple meeting spaces, restaurants and expansive spa. Whether reflecting the changing seasons or simply the different times of the day, the way the sun bounces off the hotel skillfully creates a continuous resonance and architectural connection between the building and the typology of Beijing in an utterly inimitable way.

INSIDE

THE BUILDING, MQ STUDIO WAS responsible for all interior design and styling, decoration, art installations and landscaping associated with the hotel.

Combining eastern and western influences throughout the property in handsome public spaces peppered with valuable artworks, the spaces are calm and ordered yet warm and inviting. Despite the clean lines, minimal furnishings and polished styling, the overall effect is one of understated luxury, uniquely crafted with local, cultural references. And curated by the Guardian Art Center, the hotel’s art collection includes works by some of the finest contemporary artists in the region today.

LOCATED ON THE SEVENTH FLOOR IN THE

south-west corner of the hotel, room 728 is a 150 square metre dual-aspect PuXuan Suite, of which there are four in the building. Immediately upon entering, an air of understated refinement is palpable, and the suite’s clean lines, precision and symmetries impress, stylishly combining to render the space peaceful and harmonious throughout. It is both an inordinately elegant temporary Beijing home and functional base from which to set out for my daily adventures in the Chinese capital, complete with a presidential free-standing desk facing Wanchun Pavilion, where I put pen to paper.

THE

SUITE ENVY

SUITE’S SERENE INTERIORS – PRECISELY fashioned with a luxe combination of light-hued timbers, and furnished with beautiful handcrafted artisanal furniture by Hermès-backed Chinese lifestyle brand Shang Xia – balance past and present by deferring to the awe-inspiring Forbidden City views, visible beyond floor-to-ceiling walls of windows running the length of two sides of the suite.

ARTWORKS, BOOKS AND VASES

ARE strategically placed where they accentuate the suite’s interconnecting spaces, rather than litter or obstruct. These include pieces by talented young Qingdao-born ceramicist, Qian Wang. And a beautiful ink wash mountain painting by Guo Zilong, which hangs in a dedicated tea preparation area set for two people. Zilong’s work features in many private collections and one of his pieces is hanging in the National Art Museum of China.

WHILST VERY SPACIOUS FOR A ONE-BEDROOM

suite, metal mesh screens can be drawn to separate spaces and provide additional privacy to say the sleeping area, dressing room, walk-in wardrobe and bathroom, creating a more intimate one-bedroom suite within the overall apartment-like space. These transformable volumes both define the circulation of the suite and reflect how each guest interacts and lives inside it, from open and revealing, to closed and private. Within a day, I have configured the suite to suit my taste and needs and, for me personally. it functions flawlessly. A literal sanctuary in the heart of Beijing’s most historic district, I could not want for more a more tranquil abode from which to explore the opulence of the Forbidden City and the majesty of China’s Great Wall.

A night in a PuXuan Suite at The PuXuan Hotel And Spa costs RMB 11,000 and includes an array of benefits. https://thepuxuan.com

WASHINGTON, D.C. UNITED STATES

america’s charismatic capital

AMERICA’S CAPITAL POSITIVELY HUMS WITH WORLD CLASS CULTURAL OFFERINGS, BEAUTIFUL GREEN SPACES AND A BURGEONING FOODIE AND ARTS SCENE, MAKING IT ONE OF THE MOST DELIGHTFUL CITIES IN THE STATES TO VISIT. ALEX BENASULI ENCOUNTERS ICONIC ARCHITECTURE AND BREATHTAKING VISTAS AROUND EVERY CORNER IN D.C.

FOUNDED IN THE 1790 S ON a swamp plain, with broiling hot summers and freezing cold winters, as the capital of the ragtag group of thirteen original American colonies that established themselves as a fledgling republic after winning the War of Independence against the British, the District of Columbia (as D.C. was then known), had humble beginnings and few prospects other than hope and dreams. Little did anyone know, that as the United States grew in population, size and stature to become the most powerful nation on earth, Washington, D.C. would take its place as one the world’s greatest cities.

IN TYPICAL AMERICAN VISIONARY CAN-DO spirit, Washington was designed from the outset to become a great capital. Well-known French

architect and city planner Charles L’Enfant was commissioned by President Washington himself to plan the nation’s new capital. Broad streets and magnificent avenues emanating from rectangular squares, interspersed with monuments, museums, embassies, federal buildings, parks and landscaping, were all set out in L’Enfant’s 1791 plan. Even the city’s centrepiece – the grand avenue now known as National Mall – was envisioned from the start. Centuries later, Washington’s elegant layout and low-rise cityscape, together with a prevalence of neoclassical, Georgian, gothic and Empire architectural styles, combine to give the city a decidedly European flair, which is not unlike Paris and Berlin.

SITUATED ON THE BANKS OF THE Potomac River and surrounded by pockets of forest and simply splendid countryside, D.C. is also blessed with a plethora of beautiful natural

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN WASHINGTON, D.C.

settings. This makes the American capital something of a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, as well as providing many means of respite from the heat and humidity of high summer.

Washington’s original location was chosen, in part, as a bridge between the northern and southern states of America’s East Coast. Today, the city’s graciousness and slightly slower pace – especially compared to the hustle and bustle of the country’s more industrial northern urban centres – often causes Washington to be referred to as the most northern of the southern cities, or as having a “Southern Flair”. For whilst the city overall has almost certainly moved figuratively northward in the past hundred or so years, D.C. continues to reflect its Southern exposure in a number of ways, not least the magnolias, crape myrtles, dogwoods and cherry trees which soften its architectural contours.

Washington Monument Thomas Jefferson Memorial

THE MOST DOMINANT FEATURE OF Washington’s grand and confident skyline remains the eleven-storey hollow white marble Egyptianstyle obelisk that is the iconic Washington Monument. Built to commemorate the first president of the United States, it is the tallest stone structure and the largest obelisk in the world and usually open daily for visitors to take a lift to the top. Since completion in the 1880s, it has been decreed that no building in the capital should rise higher. It is this that gives Washington its more lateral and relaxed perspective.

Gazing out from the top of the 150-metre structure, the views are nothing short of breathtaking. On one axis, all of the National Mall up to the Capitol Building is clearly visible. Whilst on the other side, one can see way past the World War II Memorial and Reflecting Pool towards the Lincoln Memorial at the western end of the National Mall. The other axis takes in the White House and the Tidal Basin, home of the Jefferson Memorial and the throngs of cherry trees for which Washington has become famous.

WHILST GETTING A BIRD’S EYE VIEW OF the city and its grand architecture from atop a monument or the seat of a helicopter tour is memorable, the National Mall and all its glories are really best enjoyed on ground level. For it is here, with your feet on terra firma, that you can get a proper feel for the stature of the imposing buildings which surround and dominate Washington’s center.

From one end of the Mall to the other is roughly four kilometres, so don some comfy shoes and enjoy the walk. There’s nothing like strolling around Washington on a gloriously sunny day. However, if you’re on a whistle-stop visit, touring the area on two wheels can considerably shrink the distances, and allow you to cover much more ground in a shorter amount of time.

FLANKING THE EASTERN END OF THE Mall, the massive neo-classical United States Capitol remains one the world’s most ardent symbols of democracy. The sprawling building –

Martin Luther-King Monument

flanking the eastern end of the mall, the massive neo-classical united states capitol remains one the world’s most ardent symbols of democracy

which contains over 500 rooms – is home to the United States Congress and is the seat of the legislative branch of the U.S. federal government.

THIS AREA OF THE MALL IS ALSO HOME to some the city’s most illustrious cultural venues, including the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum, the National Museum of Art, the Hirshhorn Museum (one of the country’s leading museums for contemporary art), and the museums of American History, Natural History, American Indian and so many more. Whilst it would take weeks to visit all the museums and exhibitions in culturally rich D.C., apart from private collections such as the Phillips (billed as America’s first museum of modern art), most of the city’s museums are free to enter. https://washington.org

ONE OF THE NEWEST ADDITIONS TO Washington’s cultural offerings and one of its most emotionally powerful, is the much-lauded Museum of African American History and Culture. Designed by British-Ghanaian architect David Adjaye, and jutting up from the ground in sharp angular tiers, the striking building is blanketed with bronze-coloured aluminum latticework, appearing from a distance as a textured brown and making a sombre, almost brooding contrast to the more traditional stone and classical façades that populate the area around it.

THOUGH BIG, BOLD AND AWE-INSPIRING is the dominant style of the architecture and vibe in and around the Mall, there are countless other spots in close proximity that offer a more-gentle energy in which to quietly absorb the splendour of Washington or seek respite from the summer heat.

Many of the museums have courtyard or sculpture gardens that offer intimate experiences of the magnificent parade of the magnolia and cherry blossoms during spring, when the Tidal Basin erupts in a spectacular array of candy pink-coloured blossom, on cherry trees gifted to D.C. from Tokyo many years ago. This event that has become Washington’s signature annual moment.

AROUND THE TIDAL BASIN, THE LOWER key Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Martin Luther King memorials are as moving as they are beautiful. For some however, Washington’s many war memorials are the most powerful, not least, the arresting black granite Vietnam Veterans Memorial, which bears the names of 58,000 men and women who gave their lives or remain missing. https://nps.gov/vive/

THE IMAGE OF AN OVERSIZED PRESIDENT

Lincoln enshrined within his own temple is one of the most enduring symbols of both D.C. and American democracy. And like Abraham Lincoln himself, his memorial is an enduring symbol of the country’s strength, wisdom and unity.

Museum of African American History and Culture

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Lincoln was the country’s sixteenth president, was responsible for abolishing slavery, and presided over the defeat of the Confederates during America’s Civil War. Anchoring the western end of the Mall with views over the Reflecting Pool, the Lincoln Memorial is a must see in a city quite literally filled with must-sees. Try visiting the memorial at night for a different yet still powerful experience. https://abrahamlincolnonline.org

THROUGHOUT THE CENTRE OF WASHINGTON, ample park benches, picnic spots and vantage points offer incredible views and peaceful opportunities to digest everything around you, in whatever way and pace suits. Night-time

is a particularly special time to view the city’s monuments. Lit up spectacularly and surrounded by far fewer people, wandering around Washington by night is an otherworldly and serene experience.

MASSACHUSETTS AVENUE IS WASHINGTON’S impressive embassy row. Block after block of this elegant wide thoroughfare showcase some of the best architecture in the city.

Georgetown, to the west of the city centre, is one of most historically intact neighbourhoods in the United States. Street after street of colonial and federalist-style buildings give Georgetown the feeling of the pre-war and post-revolutionary independent town that it once was. Today, Georgetown boasts

Georgetown The

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN WASHINGTON, D.C.

some of the most expensive residential streets in the city and is one of the most charming areas for shopping, dining and sipping a cocktail.

South of M Street, you will find a serene urban oasis with the historic C&O Canal running through it. The perfect place to picnic in the middle of a day of sightseeing, the area is popular with residents, office workers and visitors. And along the C&O Canal’s side streets, including Grace Street and Thomas Jefferson, you’ll find some of the best bakeries, coffee and tacos in town, as well as some hidden architectural gems, and remnants of the neighbourhood’s industrial history.

WHILE D.C.’S MONUMENTS, GRAND boulevards and corridors of power are perpetually awe-inspiring, it is the city’s leafy residential neighbourhoods – both the well- established and the rapidly gentrifying – that are often an unexpected source of delight to visitors.

For strolling beyond the imposing edifices of Washington’s grand center lies a city rich with attractive and vibrant communities, not to mention a food scene on par with the best in the country.

THE AREA BETWEEN DUPONT AND LOGAN circles teems with late 19th and early 20th century houses with tidy front gardens, colourful window boxes and decorative iron gates and railings. This aesthetically pleasing area is a true joy to amble around without any particular agenda.

If you’re craving culture in DuPont Circle, the nation’s first museum of modern art is well worth a post-lunch look-see. Founded in 1921 by industrialist Duncan Phillips and one of the city’s most intimate museums, its permanent collection features works by Renoir, Rothko, Bonnard, O’Keeffe and Diebenkorn, amongst others. Renoir’s sublime Luncheon of the Boating Party is probably the most well-known painting in the building. www.phillipscollection.org

Off

the most dominant feature of the city’s confident skyline, remains the elevenstorey white marble egyptian-style obelisk, that is the washington monument

TRAV ELLER LOWDOWN WASHINGTON,

A SHORT STROLL FROM THE PHILLIPS Collection, Off The Record has been the preferred watering hole for movers and shakers for decades. Located below ground in The Hay-Adams Hotel (one of the city’s most prestigious hotels), just across the street from the White House, Off The Record is in many ways quintessential D.C.. Replete with red velvet upholstery, wood panelling and a gentlemen’s club-meets-speakeasy vibe, the the somewhat darky lit space is a unique and somewhat mysterious bar and lounge. Order a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned and just imagine the backroom deals and political pacts being made with the devil, as you slowly sip your cocktail and eavesdrop on the hush-hush conversations happening close-by.

www.hayadams.com/dining

WASHINGTON’S 14TH STREET SCENE literally has something for everyone. A commercial district that connects the already gentrified streets on either side of Logan Circle towards the funkier neighbourhoods to the north, numerous bars, restaurants, galleries, boutiques, coffee shops, music venues and vintage stores fill this vibrant area with energy and excitement, catering to locals and visitors alike.

UP-AND-COMING D.C. LIES TO THE EAST OF the Capitol Building and Union Station. Decades ago, H Street was synonymous with race riots and urban blight. Today it is increasingly a thriving hub for D.C.’s progressive classes, and is brimming with artisanal bakeries, independent coffee shops and a lively music scene. The weekly farmer’s market is very popular, and the H Street Festival in the autumn is a highlight of D.C.’s annual cultural calendar. www.hstreetfestival.org

WASHINGTON USED TO BE CONSIDERED staid and boring. Whilst the city still oozes power and stature, times have definitely changed. 21st century Washington is now more dynamic than ever before and has a heart and soul away from its status as the capital of the most powerful country on earth. There is no doubt that the city universally inspires and humbles with its striking architecture and towering monuments. But it is in the city centre’s surrounding neighbourhoods that a more intimate and emotional connection to Washington is made. And it is here, when one scratches below the surface of Washington’s gleam, that visitors strike real hospitality gold.

HOSPITALITY FOR GOOD

THE SHINTA MANI FOUNDATION

CAMBODIA

luxury hotels making a real difference

EMPOWERING COMMUNITIES THROUGH EDUCATION AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT, THE SHINTA MANI FOUNDATION HAS BECOME A REAL BEACON OF HOPE FOR THE UNDERPRIVILEGED OF CAMBODIA, AND DEMONSTRATES HOW THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY CAN EFFECT SIGNIFICANT, POSITIVE CHANGE

HOSPITALITY FOR GOOD

IN THE HEART OF SIEM REAP LIES

a pioneering organisation dedicated to transforming lives and uplifting communities. The Shinta Mani Foundation, founded twenty years ago by Cambodian hotelier, Sokoun Chanpreda, has become a beacon of hope for the underprivileged in the region, and demonstrates how the hospitality industry can make a serious difference.

WITH A MISSION TO ENHANCE EDUCATION

, healthcare, and sustainable development, this nonprofit organisation has made significant strides in empowering individuals to break the cycle of poverty. Through its innovative programs and unwavering commitment, the Shinta Mani Foundation has emerged as a catalyst for positive change in Cambodia, thanks in large part to Chanpreda’s business partner, the renowned hospitality designer and hotelier, Bill Bensley, the proceeds from the sales of whose art, go directly to the Foundation.

THE STORY OF THE SHINTA MANI

Foundation begins with Chanpreda’s inherent passion for making a difference. On his first visit to Cambodia, Bensley witnessed the poverty and lack of opportunities faced by the local community in Siem Reap and felt compelled to take action.

INITIALLY FOCUSING ON EDUCATION,

the foundation was set-up to provide children with access to quality schooling, and equip them with the necessary skills for a brighter future. Over the years, the scope of the foundation's work expanded enormously to encompass healthcare, vocational training, and sustainable development initiatives.

SINCE 2010, THE FOUNDATION HAS WORKED

closely with Global Dental Relief, an organisation committed to providing free dental care to children globally. With the help of volunteer dentists, hygienists and general assistants, Global Dental Relief is able to deliver both treatment and preventive care in clinics that cater for children from remote schools and villages. The organisation also provides toothbrushes and oral health education in schools, and supplies essential nutrition to children in dire situations.

Working in collaboration with Global Dental Relief, the Foundation has provided dental care to more than 16,000 Cambodian children to date. Significantly, the partnership has also established a mobile dental clinic in the vicinity of the Angkor Wat temple complex, paving the way for first-time dental care and oral health education for children residing in neighbouring villages.

The Som Family

Learning about dental care with the help of the Dental Dinosaur

Farming fresh rock melons at the Shinta Mani Farm

A Hospitality Talent School culinary student

The eldest sibling of the Som family, Srey Lish, teaching her younger siblings

HOSPITALITY FOR GOOD

Former Hospitality Talent School student working in the spa at Shinta Mani Angkor, Siem Reap

Former Hospitality Talent School students working at Shinta Mani Angkor, Siem Reap

Tim Thy received a Shinta Mani Foundation micro-loan to buy a tuk-tuk

EMPOWERING INDIVIDUALS WITH sustainable livelihoods is another key focus of the Foundation. Through vocational training programs, it equips young adults with skills in hospitality, agriculture, and handicrafts, enabling them to secure gainful employment or even start their own businesses. And the Foundation’s own hospitality training school in Siem Reap has trained hundreds of young Khmers in the skills needed to work in hotels – not just in Cambodia, but also overseas. To date, the school has graduated more than 300 students, some of whom have gone on to work in 5* hotels in other parts of the world. This approach has not only personally uplifted individuals, but also had a very positive economic effect on their communities.

IN THE SOUTH CARDAMOM

RAINFOREST

, the core purpose of luxury tented camp Shinta Mani Wild, is to protect the vast expanse of forest on which it is sited, from illegal poaching and logging. Before the camp opened in 2018, the Foundation forged a partnership with the Wildlife Alliance NGO, whose armed rangers patrol the forest and have the ability to prosecute offenders. To date, they have confiscated some 2,700 chainsaws and protected hundreds of hectares of Cambodia’s precious rainforest.

Guests are able to join the armed Wildlife Alliance rangers on their daily patrols, who teach them in a hands-on way about their work catching poachers and loggers; rescuing and caring for wildlife in need; undertaking research into local wildlife by way of camera traps, and clearing the forest of snares.

Ongoing, a percentage of Shinta Mani Wild’s income is dedicated to keeping eight rangers employed 24/7, thus equating to the protection of 2,000 hectares of forest and saving 500 wild animals every year. In time, it is hoped that this sustainable model will be copied around the world.

THIS YEAR, THE FOUNDATION WILL BUILD new 100 homes; provide baby formula for at least 40 newborns, and hopes to permanently stop poaching and logging in the Cardamom Forest. And in conjunction with the Wildlife Alliance, four wild tigers from India will hopefully be reintroduced into the Cambodian wilderness, to repopulate this endangered species.

AT THE CORE OF THE FOUNDATION'S MANY triumphs are its collaborative approach to every project and initiative, and Bensley’s passionate and unwavering support. By working closely with local communities, government agencies, and

other NGOs, the Foundation both maximises its impact and fosters long-term relationships. And its programs are designed to be community-driven, thus empowering individuals and communities to take ownership of their own development.

WITHIN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY,

THE Shinta Mani Foundation has emerged as a shining example of how luxury hotels can empower and transforming the lives of those less fortunate. Rural families in Cambodia have become stronger, and numerous countryside Khmer communities have been transformed into thriving centers of activity. And the vision and dedication of Chanpreda and Bensley, continue to propel the organisation forward, no doubt touching the lives of generations to come. https://shintamanifoundation.org

Micro-loan receipient, Yous Ny, at her village store

MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

THE GENUINELY ORIGINAL SONGWRITER

A TRUE LUMINARY OF THE CONTEMPORARY MUSIC SCENE, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHATS WITH PRODIGIOUS SINGERSONGWRITER, RUFUS WAINWRIGHT, WHO, IN AN INDUSTRY OFTEN PLAGUED BY CONFORMITY, CONTINUES TO STAND AS A BEACON OF INDIVIDUALITY AND ARTISTIC BRILLIANCE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIRANDA PENN TURIN

MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE INTERVIEW

TO SAY THAT RUFUS WAINWRIGHT WAS born into a musical family is something of an understatement. Indeed, when asked whether his was a musical household, he unsurprisingly responds, “that certainly was the case.”

Wainwright emerged from a family of musical greatness and was immersed in the world of melody and harmony from the get-go. His parents, folk singers Kate McGarrigle and Loudon Wainwright III, instilled in him a profound appreciation for the power of music from a tender age.

Often referred to as "Canada's Cultural Capital”, Wainwright hails from the musical mecca of Montreal. A hive of musicality for more than a century, brimming with everything from burlesque and jazz to rock and dance music, it's a city that would shape his creative identity.

Influenced by a rich array of genres over the years, from opera to pop, Wainwright effortlessly weaves together an eclectic musical tapestry that defies categorisation. His enchanting stage presence and charismatic persona have made him a captivating live performer, enthralling audiences with soul-stirring performances. And his distinctive blend of theatricality, poignant lyricism and emotive melodies has garnered him a devoted following across the globe.

Yet Wainwright’s musical prowess extends beyond his entrancing vocals. A gifted pianist, effortlessly commanding the keys with finesse and dexterity, his compositions are imbued with a timeless elegance, evoking a sense of nostalgia and introspection. With each musical endeavour, he fearlessly explores the depths of his emotions, painting vivid sonic landscapes that captivate and transport listeners. And his discography is a testament to his versatility and artistry. From his critically acclaimed self-titled debut album, to the ambitious and audacious Want Two, Wainwright has consistently pushed the boundaries of his creativity, earning him a multitude of accolades and recognition over his 25-year career.

Now Wainwright has applied his unwavering commitment to artistic integrity and immense passion for his craft to writing the music and lyrics for new West End musical, Opening Night, at the Gielgud Theatre in the heart of London’s Theatreland. https://rufuswainwright.com

You were born into a very close-knit and musically orientated family. How did this impact your childhood?

Your first musical memory as a child? And the first instrument you played?

My mother used to sing French Canadian folk songs to put me to sleep. I’ve always gravitated towards the piano.

When did you realise that you wanted to be a musician?

I never thought about it. My mother could tell pretty early on that I had a lot of talent, and then I started to express a real ambition and love of performing. We were off to the races around the age of three.

Was there a particular event which prompted you to begin composing music?

My parents wrote songs about each other and their own personal lives. So song writing was a familiar language that I wanted to learn to be able to express myself in.

Your musical inspirations in your youth?

My first inspiration was Al Jolson. I have no idea why, but I was obsessed with him. Then came Judy Garland, which of course lasted. All of that intertwined with the Beatles. Then when I heard Chopin for the first time, I started to go more classical.

The first time you performed in front of a live audience? That’s a great question… I guess I would have to have been around five or six? I grew up going to folk festivals and we often ended the set with a big family sing along. I’m sure I crawled up there.

i grew up going to folk festivals and we often ended the set with a big family sing along

every artist has to have a massive ego to survive in this business

How do you handle the fans and the fame side of things?

I’m very fortunate in that my level of fame is quite manageable. I’m not hounded by the paparazzi or crazed young people. That being said, I have to be mindful and I have to pay attention to certain signals. In the end it’s about following your gut.

Which musical instruments, or contemporary electronic elements, do you most enjoy working with?

I’m not quite sure, but I will say that recently I had dinner at an event in LA and I was sitting next to the man that created Roland keyboards. That blew my mind, because we grew up playing those, and my mother and aunt went through a serious synthesizer phase, so I guess Rolands.

Your favourite venue anywhere to perform live?

Probably the Royal Albert Hall in London. It has the very unique quality of being incredibly glamorous and funky at the same time. It’s very grand and also intimate. It’s a bit of a paradox.

Your most recent album, Folkocracy , is an endearing tribute to your roots and 25-year career. What were your inspirations for the album?

It seems like there is a bit of a resurgence of Americana music courtesy of people like Brandi Carlile, or the Dixie Chicks before her. I realised I grew up singing folk music, and that is the basis of my sound, and that I should assert myself into that, because it is sort of my core and you have to keep the core tight.

Folkocracy in punctuated by a selection of collaborations, not least of which are features from Sheryl Crow, Chaka Khan and John Legend. What do you most enjoy about collaborating with an artist, and who would you still like to collaborate with?

I like how dangerous it is, in the sense that every artist has to have a massive ego to survive in this business, and so when you're about to begin the process, it is like two warriors stepping up to the plate, deciding whether to join forces or annihilate each other. I like that electricity. I’ve always wanted to do something with Bjork,

and we’ve talked about it finally, so it looks like it might happen at some point.

Your work has ranged from Shakespeare to opera and everything in between. What has been your favourite work to date?

I can’t say. It’s like naming a favourite child – it changes hourly.

What do you know now, about your musical talents and capabilities, that you didn’t know when you released your self-titled debut in 1998?

That’s an interesting question. I think I didn’t know how deep my voice would get over the years. I, like a lot of singers, including Elton John and my dad, sounded like little monkeys when we began with these high young voices. Now I have much more resonance. If I had known that at the outset, I would have probably been much less nervous.

Tell us about your new musical, Opening Night , which is based on John Cassavetes’ 1977 film about theatre. For me, John Cassavetes’ movie Opening Night has long been a shining beacon representing both excellence in cinema and the might of live theatre.

Schloss Elmau

An intense marriage of film and stage, it is about a very personal mental and creative survival that I think we can all relate to on a very deep human level. I’ve been waiting for ages to write my first musical, and with this fantastic story, plus the incomparable Sheridan Smith, not to mention the incredible Ivo van Hove, I don’t think I could have aimed any higher.

Has finally making a musical tested you in new ways?

It’s an opportunity for me to try and exercise all of my tools that I’ve amassed over the years. Be it opera or Broadway or folk music. I feel like finally I'm in an area where I can create quite the exotic salad of music.

Was casting Opening Night difficult?

Yes, very difficult. It’s a very demanding role on every front: acting, singing or being able to do eight shows a week. It was a hard process, but I am very happy with the result.

What should the audience expect?

They should expect to get their money’s worth.

What’s your favourite hotel in the world?

Schloss Elmau, situated between GarmischPartenkirchen and Mittenwald in a sanctuary of the Bavarian Alps, in Germany. Its unique setting and unusual offerings ignite my interest.

Has your teenage daughter shown any inclination to perform?

She will be the next Taylor Swift tomorrow.

Where do you holiday as a family?

We try to spend quite a bit of time in Canada to see the family and get a break from American politics.

What advice would you give a fledgling singer-songwriter?

It’s all about the process. Make music every day.

IN ISSUE 45, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TEAM OF FOODIES SCOURS LONDON’S FLOURISHING RESTAURANT SCENE, TO HAND-PICK THE STANDOUT EATERIES THAT SERVE THE FINEST TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY BRITISH CUISINE, INCLUDING:

THE PEM BY SALLY ABE FROG BY ADAM HANDLING

THE HARWOOD ARMS BERNERS TAVERN

THE WOLSELEY CITY

45 JERMYN ST.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TEAM VISITS A HANDPICKED SELECTION OF LONDON RESTAURANTS, WHICH STANDOUT FOR SERVING THE BEST TRADITIONAL, INNOVATIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

BRITISH CUISINE

LONDON’S BRITISH RESTAURANT SCENE

The Harwood Arms

Jason Atherton

CRAMMED WITH some of the world’s most iconic landmarks, the charismatic British capital never fails to deliver on pretty much every cultural level, particularly when it comes to its food scene and creating memorable gastronomic moments.

Beautifully complex, comprising a glorious patchwork of dishes hailing from various parts of the United Kingdom and its islands, British cuisine is sometimes difficult to define but is always interesting, hearty and downright delicious. And from the staples of fish and chips and sticky toffee pudding, to Sunday roasts with all the traditional trimmings and decadent Beef Wellington, there is something in the repertoire of English fare to amply satisfy every member of the family, not to mention the most cultured of travellers.

On the following pages, The Cultured Traveller team roadtests a number of restaurants in London, which serve some of the best British cuisine available in the capital right now, complete with attentive service.

IMAGE: JUSTIN DE SOUZA

The Wolsesley City

45 Jermyn St

Frog by Adam Handling

TASTE & SIP RESTAURANT SCENE

BERNERS TAVERN

10 BERNERS STREET

➤ LONDON W1

A PERENNIAL FAVOURITE with Londoners, relatively hidden in plain sight just off the less glamorous end of Oxford Street, Jason Atherton’s all-day restaurant, Berners Tavern, routinely impresses with its magnificent dining room and expertly executed British fare to match.

Quietly located within Ian Schrager’s London EDITION hotel, it’s not until you’re through the doors that the space wows with its artwork-filled walls, soaring triple-height ceiling, intricate stucco plasterwork and mammoth chandeliers. Anchored by a very long cocktail bar along one side of the restaurant, it’s simply rude not to have a cheeky G&T before lunch, or a handcrafted cocktail while people watching in the evening. Indeed, the crowd varies from trendy millennials to businessmen, ladies who lunch and families gathering for a Sunday roast. Yet despite all the visual entertainment, Berners is a warm, spacious and understated venue, where one can just as easily have a swift Full English as a louche lunch.

The food makes the most of fresh local produce in a range of truly British dishes with Mediterranean touches. Our eight-hour slow-cooked Cumbrian Herdwick shoulder of lamb literally falls off the bone –the meat so tender, it is hard not to resist eating every shred. Served with a pearl barley risotto and roasted root vegetables, we conclude that it must surely be one of the most impressive British dishes to share in London, until the pistachio and honey Alaska is flambéed tableside and we order digestifs.

If you enjoy a touch of decadence and theatre with your food, inimitable Berners Tavern never fails to deliver, and is the perfect place to pit-stop midway through a day of shopping in London. www.bernerstavern.com

IMAGE:

NIKOLAS

KOENIG

IMAGE: CLAIRE MENARY

THE DRAWING ROOM AT RAFFLES LONDON

57 WHITEHALL

➤ LONDON SW1

KNOWN TODAY THROUGHOUT the world as a quintessentially English tradition, the concept of Afternoon Tea first appeared in the mid-19th century, when Anna Maria Russell, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, introduced it in 1840. The Duchess got hungry at around four o’clock in the afternoons, and the evening meal wasn’t served until 8pm. Because no one wants to wait that long to eat, the Duchess often asked for a tray of tea, bread, butter and cake, late afternoon. It became a habit, and before long, she invited friends to join her for her afternoon snacks. Afternoon Tea was thus born. Today, it can be enjoyed at numerous venues across London, some serving more elaborate offerings than others.

Located just off the Whitehall entrance to grand Raffles London hotel, and overlooking Horse Guards via large sash windows, The Drawing Room provides

CHENESTON’S

3 KENSINGTON COURT

➤ LONDON W8

NESTLED WITHIN THE SMART confines of the refined Milestone Hotel in leafy Kensington, directly opposite Hyde Park and Kensington Palace, Cheneston’s restaurant deftly encompasses culinary heritage in its fine British cuisine infused with a subtle contemporary twist.

Named after the Anglo-Saxon name for Kensington, Cheneston’s is set within a sumptuous wood-panelled dining room,

guests with a bird's eye view of the mounted Household Cavalry soldiers, as they guard the official entrance to Buckingham Palace. Here, a sumptuous Afternoon Tea is served every day from 12 noon until early evening, beginning with a Heritage Carrot Tart, featuring a range of sandwiches, and accompanied by pastries,

scones and cake. Naturally, a choice of premium teas is included. But for those celebrating something, a glass of Gusbourne English sparking rosé can be added to complete an afternoon of decadence, set within a stately reimagined British drawing room perfect for such an occasion.

www.raffles.com/london

seating just two dozen guests, making every meal feel like something of a special occasion. Elegant dishes coming out of chef Daniel Putz’s kitchen are evidently lovingly crafted from the finest and freshest ingredients, particularly highlighting British producers, including H. Forman & Son, which has been creating the world’s finest smoked salmon for almost 120 years. The restaurant’s Grilled Dover Sole, served with creamed spinach and crushed new potatoes, is almost certainly one of the finest in London (£72).

https://milestonehotel.com

TASTE & SIP RESTAURANT SCENE

THE HARWOOD ARMS

WALHAM GROVE

➤ LONDON SW6

HELMED BY A SEASONED team hailing from the three Michelin-starred Ledbury in Notting Hill and set within an inviting rustic-chic space in the heart of backstreet Fulham, The Harwood Arms was transformed in 2009 from a somewhat run-down local pub, dating back to the mid 19th century. Fifteen years later, the busy venue has established itself as a culinary landmark, famed for its moreish fine game dishes, excellent seafood and legendary all-day Sunday roasts, not to mention its homemade Venison Scotch Eggs, one of which you simply must order.

Being the only Michelin-starred pub in London and often voted the

best gastropub in the UK, keeps regulars coming back, and tempts new patrons to drop-in and see what all the fuss is about. Thus the pub’s reservations book is booked for weeks and often months in advance, with a mixture of well-heeled locals and foodies in the know, which makes for an extremely pleasant ambiance and the ideal atmosphere in which to relax and truly enjoy the delicious fare – whether a leisurely dinner, roast with all the trimmings, or lunch in the middle of a working day.

What the Harwood does exceedingly well, is skillfully showcase prime British ingredients via honest yet imaginative cooking. A gamefocused menu of reworked time-honoured British classics is

difficult to choose from, despite not being a large menu. And when dishes arrive, they are generous and hearty in equal measure, and impress with their presentation the minute they’re placed on the table.

The Cultured Traveller kicks-off a Friday lunch visit with Venison Paté and one of the aforementioned Venison Scotch eggs, neither of which disappoints, and silence falls as the starters are quite literally devoured. The Cumbrian Pork main course for two is equally scrumptious, accompanied by a generous variety of creative sides. And a sweet symphony of shortbread, hazelnuts and sherry, the Apple Parfait dessert is the perfect end to a glorious meal. If the Harwood is your local, you are very lucky indeed! https://harwoodarms.com

Josh Cutress, Head Chef

TASTE & SIP RESTAURANT SCENE

THE PEM BY SALLY ABE

22-28 BROADWAY

➤ LONDON SW1

NAMED AFTER THE FAMILY pet name given to the suffragette probably best known for trying to attach a flag to King George V's horse at the 1913 Derby, Emily Wilding Davison, The Pem is set within the Conrad London St James hotel, located in Britain's royal and political heartland, close to Whitehall and Westminster Abbey. Whilst being a pretty large restaurant, it is surprisingly something of a hidden gastronomic gem, for the food is some of the best one can presently enjoy in the British capital.

Bedecked in a feminine palette of pinks, reds and wine colours, the dining room is warm and welcoming. Deftly divided up by screens and booths, The Pem offers a multitude of seating options, including a spacious PDR, and is helmed by Sally Abé, who arrived in London in 2007 at the age of 20 and never left. Since then, Abé has worked at The Savoy, Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms, where she secured a Michelin star for the famed pub.

Making the most of the freshest in-season produce, Abé’s food at The Pem can best be described as exquisitely presented sophisticated British cuisine, skillfully fusing a multitude of flavours in each beautiful dish. Reinventing historic British cuisine in an entirely original way, the food seriously impresses, and even a three-course lunch is enough to get a good feel for Abé’s culinary talents and satiate the most hungry of diners.

Every bite of a Saddleback Pork Belly Lardons starter is a flavourful mouthful of Yorkshire, with black pudding and generous amounts of Wiltshire truffle masterfully rounding the dish. When we visited,

mains range from a Pan Seared Cornish Monkfish (£28) to Roast Cotswold Venison (£35) and a divine Wild Mushroom and Truffle Suet Pudding served with buttered Savoy Cabbage (£25). Abé is renowned for her desserts, and the Lemon Meringue is quite possibly the best The Cultured Traveller has ever tasted, complete with yoghurt sorbet and caramelised white chocolate, garnished with hazelnut. (£10). The meal is complimented by a couple of glasses of wines hailing from Austria and Georgia, perfectly paired by a knowledgeable and friendly sommelier.

If you are a serious foodie, and you must choose one restaurant in London at which to lunch on refined British cuisine, make it The Pem. The food is truly exceptional.

https://thepemrestaurant.com

Sally Abe

THE WOLSELEY CITY

68 KING WILLIAM STREET ➤ LONDON EC4

IT RIGHTFULLY TOOK THE Wolseley some two decades to launch a second London site, and it was worth the wait, for The Wolseley City is every bit as glam as the original Piccadilly restaurant.

Boasting a lavish Art Deco dining hall complete with gothic chandeliers, golden Howard Carter-era Egyptomania touches,

45 JERMYN ST.

CORNER OF JERMYN ST. AND DUKE ST.

➤ LONDON SW1

OLD-SCHOOL GLAMOUR

meets contemporary London in this bright, modern brasserie set within the heart of St. James’s at the back of Fortnum’s on Piccadilly, which has always been a destination for well-heeled locals.

Once inside the stylish Martin Brudnizki-designed restaurant and seated at one of the luscious orange booths, the stuff of old-fashioned bistro-style gastronomy awaits, complete with menus adorned with artworks by the wonderful Dutch illustrator Zeloot, which show a series of modern day stories about the dandy Beau Brummell, arbiter of men’s fashion and original champion of Jermyn Street.

and giant black and white striped columns, the majestic restaurant immediately impresses as soon as you enter, and very much fits the Wolseley blueprint, occupying the sprawling ground floor of what was formerly the Monument branch of House of Fraser.

Priding itself on simple dishes done well, the European menu with a French leaning is largely the same as Piccadilly, punctuated by some perfectly executed British

classics, including a moreish ‘Monument’ fish pie of cod, salmon and prawns (£23.75); exceptional Gin & Juniper Cured Smoked Salmon, served with buttered soda bread (£19.75), and Sunday roasts of Herefordshire Beef served with roast potatoes, honey roasted root vegetables, Yorkshire pudding and a red wine jus, which are not to be missed if you happen to be in the City over a weekend (£35).

https://thewolseleycity.com

The menu offers everything from brunch classics and Oxtail and Vegetable Broth, to Gatelands Farm Calves’ Liver and a Cumbrian Rib Eye. Obviously, The Cultured Traveller kicks-off the proceedings by summoning a trolley of caviar, which is priced by the gram and served with blinis, baked new potatoes and scrambled eggs. Our Siberian Sturgeon is priced at a

reasonable £2.50 per gram. The service is friendly and swift and the room is permanently buzzing. One bottle of wine becomes two and a quick lunch ends up lasting a few hours. A memorable and lively dining experience, courtesy of a wealth of beautiful design touches throughout the restaurant, we leave full and happy, vowing to return.

https://45jermynst.com

TASTE & SIP RESTAURANT SCENE

BRASSERIE OF LIGHT

ENTRANCE ON DUKE STREET ➤ LONDON W1

THANKS TO A SEPARATE entrance on Duke Street and set on the edge of Selfridges department store, Brasserie of Light offers early morning, all-day and after-hours dining for guests and shoppers alike, outside of the store’s opening hours.

Fashioned by renowned hospitality interior designer, Martin Brudnizki, soaring atrium-like Brasserie of Light features bold, colourful and elegant interiors heavily influenced by the Art Deco era, all of which are bathed in masses of natural light courtesy of massive east-facing windows.

At night, the vast space takes on a buzzy feel, thanks to the

THE ENGLISH GRILL

39 BUCKINGHAM PALACE ROAD ➤ LONDON SW1

SET WITHIN OPULENT surroundings hung with Murano chandeliers, there is perhaps nowhere within a stone’s throw of Buckingham Palace that exemplifies British cuisine more adeptly than the brasserie-style English Grill restaurant at The Rubens Hotel overlooking the Royal Mews, five minutes’ walk from Victoria station. Here, talented chef Ben Kelliher and his team, focus on

showcasing homegrown vegetables and premium seasonal British produce, deftly transforming them into classic, generously portioned dishes executed with culinary flair, served to guests with a touch of tableside theatrics. Meats supplied by Aubrey Allen, Royal Warrant Holder to The Queen, are grilled to perfection in a charcoal fired Josper. And an array of desserts includes an unmissable Crêpe Suzette, which is flambéed at the table (£22.50), and a rather excellent trolley of cheeses hailing from across the British Isles.

https://rubenshotel.com

liberal use of mirrors throughout the venue and a funky musical soundtrack. But the dazzling centerpiece of Brasserie of Light is undoubtedly the massive crystalencrusted statue of Pegasus, created especially for the venue by famed artist Damien Hirst, which towers over diners' heads. The show-stopping artwork is Hirst’s largest-scale artwork in London

to date, and complements the restaurant’s eclectic mix of British and internationally inspired dishes, executed with finesse and served by efficient and friendly staff for whom nothing is too much trouble. Order the Eggs Royale and a Bloody Mary for the perfect breakfast before a busy day of browsing Selfridges.

https://brasserie-of-light.co.uk

FROG BY ADAM HANDLING

34-35 SOUTHAMPTON STREET ➤ LONDON WC2

LONDON'S EVER-CHANGING restaurant scene is one of the most competitive on the continent and it takes guts, hard work and sheer determination to succeed in the British capital, let alone land accolades. Reaping widespread acclaim for his stylish, contemporary British fare, which focuses on seasonality and minimal wastage, at the age of 35, fast-rising chef and restaurateur, Adam Handling, has already made his mark on the industry, garnering much praise in the process, including winning last year’s Trencherman’s Award for creativity and innovation and being bestowed with an MBE.

Nestled on Southampton Street in the colourful heart of

London’s bustling Covent Garden, Handling's flagship restaurant is fun, slick and very much in touch with global culinary trends. Universally acclaimed by the critics and absolutely loved by regulars for its friendly and uplifting atmosphere, despite its Michelin star and numerous awards, Frog by Adam Handling doesn’t tell you how to dress, or quieten guests who may enjoy their meal a touch too much. On the contrary, it is a modern fine dining restaurant that welcomes all and wants everyone to enjoy the experience of Handling’s innovative cooking, which entertains the eyes and treats the tastebuds to an inimitable gastronomic experience imbued with sophisticated theatrics.

Making the best use of the freshest and highest quality produce hailing from around the British Isles, Frog's food champions sustainable British luxury and is served to guests seated at tables facing the semi-open kitchen. The restaurant’s chefs also forage together locally for seasonal ingredients.

Every guest at Frog dines on a theatrical tasting menu, with a special menu offered for vegetarians. Various wine pairing options are offered including alcohol-free, premium wines and Cali Burgundy. A delightful experience from start-to-finish, the proceedings are punctuated by chefs and sommeliers coming to the table, making the meal an interactive one. And because it takes a good threehours to dine at Frog, guests have no choice but to relax and enjoy the culinary fun.

www.frogbyadamhandling.com

IMAGE: JOHN HERSEY

IMAGE: JASON ALFRED PALMER

IMAGE: JUSTIN DE SOUZA

Adam Handling

EXHIBITION REVIEW

ADRIAN GIBSON VISITS THE FIRST UK RETROSPECTIVE SOLELY DEVOTED TO THE LEGENDARY FRENCH COUTURIÈRE’S WORK, AND IS HAPPY TO SEE THAT SOME OF THE MYSTERIES SURROUNDING ‘COCO’ ARE TACKLED HEAD ON, INCLUDING HER NAZI TIES, AND FEUD WITH CHRISTIAN DIOR

FOLLOWING A HIGHLY successful 2020 stint at the Palais Galliera (undoubtedly Paris’ fashion sanctuary), the Gabrielle Chanel exhibition travelled to both Melbourne and Tokyo before touching down at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum in September 2023 to rave reviews. Yet while this is surprisingly the first time that a UK retrospective has been dedicated entirely to Chanel – charting the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley, through to her first millinery boutique on Rue Cambon in 1910, and the establishment of her eponymous brand – it was always going to be a challenge for the V&A to make the exhibition its own. Being the V&A, we needn’t have worried, for by drawing on the museum’s own extensive collection of Chanel pieces, and adding 120 rare items to the exhibition that was first shown in Paris, the British incarnation of Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is unique to London, and no doubt one of the reasons why it has been something of a museum blockbuster.

EXPLORING THE BRITISH INFLUENCE IN Chanel’s designs is the focus of ‘The Chanel In Britain’ part of the exhibition, which takes pride of place just a few rooms in, beginning with the opening of Chanel’s first store in London in 1927.

Partly born out of her 10-year relationship with the Duke of Westminster and socialising with aristocracy, Chanel always loved British fabrics, and could often be found fishing and hunting in hiking boots and tweed. As well as footage from one of Chanel’s British fashion shows in 1932, there are photos of her with the Duke and other romantic interests, alongside a 1928 portrait of her with a Dachshund, painted by her friend, Winston Churchill.

GABRIELLE CHANEL. FASHION MANIFESTO ➤ VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

EXHIBITION REVIEW

DESPITE HER GREAT SUCCESS, CHANEL closed the doors of her house in 1939, when France declared war on Germany and World War II began. This is chronicled in a small, dimly lit room in the exhibition. Other couturiers left the country, but Chanel stayed in Paris, and the exhibition tackles this controversial time head on. It’s acknowledged that the Nazis considered Chanel to be a trusted source in 1941. But recently unearthed documents, presented at the V&A, show that she joined the French Resistance in 1943, and was most likely playing both sides, and doing whatever it took to survive and help her family and friends.

CHANEL REMAINED CLOSED AFTER THE war, whereupon she took 15 years out of the industry, partly to resolve some personal difficulties. Via the next few rooms, the exhibition gradually builds up to her 1954 return to fashion, which is marked at the V&A by a spectacular space, filled floor-to-ceiling with more than 50 of Chanel’s trademark suits in a rainbow of candy colours. Visitors are encouraged to take a seat and absorb the array of tailored perfection.

At 71 years old, in an interview with Life magazine, when asked about her return to fashion, she said, “Why did I return? One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.”

BEYOND BLACK AND WHITE FILM OF SALON shows at Chanel’s original Rue Cambon store, there follows a corridor lined with 2.55 handbags and two-tone slingbacks. Launched in February 1955, hence its code name, the legendary 2.55 quilted leather handbag could be carried by hand or slung over the shoulder on its double-chain strap, which was often interlaced with leather to stop the chain from jangling. Mademoiselle really did think of everything for her customers, which is perhaps the key to the longevity of her designs.

EXHIBITION REVIEW

THERE FOLLOWS A ROOM DEDICATED to fragrances, from her iconic signature No.5 fragrance, as worn by Marilyn Monroe to bed, to Pour Monsieur, her first men’s fragrance launched in 1955; a showcase of her opulent 1960s evening wear and costume jewellery, and a corner dedicated to her stunning costume work on Alain Resnais’s 1961 movie, Last Year at Marienbad

THE FOCAL POINT OF THE IMPRESSIVE final room, is a grand, mirror-lined staircase, very much like Chanel’s own, in her atelier on Rue Cambon. Standing on its stairs are mannequins wearing intricately detailed monochrome evening dresses, including a dress Elizabeth Taylor wore to meet Princess Margaret in 1967.

NEVER WORK SHY, CHANEL CONTINUED TO work right up until her death on 10th January 1971 at The Ritz in Paris, where she had lived for more than two decades, referring to the Ritz as ma maison. Her 188-square-metre second floor residence, with a view over Place Vendome, is now a hotel suite. Today, you can sleep where Chanel slept for a mere EUR 40,000 per night.

GABRIELLE CHANEL. FASHION MANIFESTO ends on a somewhat poignant note. Just around the corner from the final room and its showstopping staircase, past a cabinet of books and biographies bearing Chanel’s image, is a somewhat sombre and deceptively simple black wool suit from 1969, over a simple white priest-like shirt, topped with a hat. Deftly embodying Chanel’s house codes and colours, the suit is believed to have been worn by the designer herself, although no photos exist of her wearing it. It was purchased by the V&A in 1978, when the “Personal Collection of Chanel” was auctioned by Christie’s.

BORN INTO POVERTY IN RURAL FRANCE and brought up by nuns, Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is first and foremost the story of a formidable and driven woman, who became the architect of the modern woman’s wardrobe, and created an iconic, global fashion brand, that generated sales of more than USD 17 billion in 2022. That’s quite a feat for a penniless orphan, who opened a tiny millinery shop in Paris in 1910.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 45 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

45 JERMYN ST.

➤ https://45jermynst.com

AAC HOTEL ST. JULIAN’S ➤ www.ac-hotels.com

AFRIKABURN

➤ www.afrikaburn.com

BBENSLEY COLLECTION

POOL VILLAS

➤ https://shintamani.com/angkor

BERNERS TAVERN

➤ www.bernerstavern.com

BOWIE HOUSE

➤ www.aubergeresorts.com

BRASSERIE OF LIGHT

➤ www.brasserie-of-light.co.uk

BRIT AWARDS

➤ www.brits.co.uk

CCANNES FILM FESTIVAL

➤ www.festival-cannes.com

CHENESTON’S

➤ https://milestonehotel.com

COACHELLA

➤ www.coachella.com

COMO CASTELLO DEL NERO

➤ www.comohotels.com

DDOROTHEA HOTEL

➤ www.dorotheahotel.com

EEDEN NAIROBI

➤ www.eden-nairobi.com

ÉTOILE DU NORD

➤ www.etoiledunord.fr

FFASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM, LONDON ➤ www.fashiontextilemuseum.org

FROG BY ADAM HANDLING ➤ www.frogbyadamhandling

FRIEZE NEW YORK ➤ www.frieze.com/fairs

HHILTON YALA RESORT ➤ www.hiltonyalaresort.com

HONEYROSE HOTEL ➤ www.marriott.com

JJAWAKARA ISLANDS ➤ https://jawakara.com

LLA FANTAISIE ➤ www.lafantaisie.com

LOST PLATE FOOD TOURS ➤ https://lostplate.com

LOUISE LOUBATIERES ➤ www.louiseloubatieres.com

MMONDRIAN IBIZA ➤ www.mondrianibiza.com

PPHARE CIRCUS ➤ https://pharecircus.org

PULLMAN CAPE TOWN CITY CENTER ➤ https://pullman.accor.com

RRAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D'ANGKOR

➤ www.rafflessiemreap.com

RIGGS WASHINGTON DC ➤ www.riggsdc.com

RUFUS WAINWRIGHT ➤ www.rufuswainwright.com

SSHINTA MANI ANGKOR

➤ https://shintamani.com/angkor

SHINTA MANI FOUNDATION

➤ https://shintamanifoundation.org

SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM

➤ www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com

TTHEAM’S GALLERY

➤ https://theamsgallery.com

THE DRAWING ROOM, RAFFLES LONDON ➤ www.raffles.com

THE ENGLISH GRILL

➤ https://rubenshotel.com

THE HARWOOD ARMS

➤ https://harwoodarms.com

THE LITTLE RED FOX

➤ https://thelittleredfoxespresso.com

THE PEM BY SALLY ABE

➤ https://thepemrestaurant.com

THE PUXUAN HOTEL & SPA ➤ https://thepuxuan.com

THE ST. REGIS CHICAGO

➤ www.stregischicago.com

THE WOLSELEY CITY ➤ https://thewolseleycity.com

VVESPA ADVENTURES

➤ https://vespaadventures.com

VIVE LATINO

➤ www.vivelatino.com.mx

WW EDINBURGH

➤ www.marriott.com

suite with a view

SITUATED IN THE WORLDfamous Chianti wine region, 40 minutes south of Florence, waves of terraced hills provide the bucolic backdrop for COMO Castello Del Nero’s charming ochre-hued 12th century 740-acre castle estate, which encompasses orchards and manicured gardens within its expansive grounds. Complete with Renaissance frescoes, interiors by Milanese designer Paola Navone, first-class wellness facilities, a Michelin-starred restaurant and medieval wine cellars, a discerning traveller could really want for nothing more from a Tuscan resort.

LOCATED WITHIN THE MAIN BUILDING, the COMO Terrace Suite offers around 100 square metres of luxurious seclusion, including a generous living room and a divine bedroom laid with the finest Egyptian linens. Yet the suite’s star attraction is its huge private terrace, decked out with sun loungers and an al fresco dining area, to make the most of the incredible sweeping views out onto the estate, with its towering turrets of vines, olive groves and feathery cypress trees.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.comohotels.com/italy/como-castello-del-nero

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor was the first luxurious grand hotel of its kind to open in Siem Reap.

DISCOVER THE MARVELS OF ANGKOR WAT

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor’s location in the leafy Old French Quarter of Siem Reap, facing the Royal Palace and close to the Angkor National Museum, makes it the perfect spot to begin your Angkorian adventure.

RAFFLES.COM/SIEM-REAP