The Cultured Traveller - Tenth Anniversary Edition, September-November 2024 Issue 47

The Ultimate Field Watch - Tested on Normandy’s Beaches in 1944

Released to commemorate the 80th Anniversary of D-Day, our new M36 is a meticulously crafted timepiece inspired by the iconic watches supplied to the British forces during the Second World War.

Designed by Vertex in Great Britain, built in Switzerland to the highest standards, and crafted from robust 316L grade stainless steel, the M36 is designed to withstand the challenges of both daily wear and adventurous endeavours and is water resistant to 100 metres.

The M36 uses top quality sapphire crystal, box-shaped for a distinctly vintage look, while offering unbeatable scratch resistance. The dial features moulded X1 Super-LumiNova numerals, and finely printed indexes, that ensure visibility in low-light. And the M36’s hands are crafted from rhodium and treated with X1 Super-LumiNova to enhance legibility.

The M36 features a classic 36mm case, making it suitable for all wrist sizes.

The M36 is powered by the Swiss made automatic winding Sellita SW261 movement, renowned for its precision and reliability.

Emphasising its rugged heritage, the M36 is presented in a custom military-grade tactical case, complete with three different straps, including a classic expanding metal bracelet.

As always, Vertex timepieces are designed with purity of purpose in mind, and the new M36 is no exception.

THE VERTEX M36 FIELD WATCH

A limited edition timepiece

GBP 2,150

Vertex Watches, 15 Shepherd Market, London W1J 7PH www.vertex-watches.com

VERTEX WATCHES - PURITY OF PURPOSE

A WORLD OF SERENITY, TRANQUILITY, AND AUTHENTICITY

Nestled on Oman’s pristine southern coast, Alila Hinu Bay offers a serene retreat where mountains meet the sea.

Experience peace in our beachfront hideaway, indulge in Spa Alila, savor local and international flavors, and embrace the coastal charm. Refresh your spirit by embracing tranquility.

HAYYAK!

Tel +968 2337 3300 hinubay@alilahotels.com

A WORLD ABOVE THE MOUNTAINS

Located in Oman’s picturesque Hajar Mountains, soaring over 2000 meters high, Alila Jabal Akhdar is a serene retreat that offers tranquility amidst steep gorges and breathtaking rock formations.

With a perfect blend of tradition and sophistication, guests can enjoy thrilling activities, global culinary delights, and a variety of enchanting experiences for unforgettable moments.

MARHABA!

A local Bon Buddhist lady in 800-year-old Lubra Village, in the Baragaon region of Lower Mustang, Nepal

ISSUE 47 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2024

50 THE GATEWAY TO A WEALTH OF TIBETAN CULTURE

Nestled in the shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges in northern Nepal, and positioned on the ancient trade route to Tibet, Nicholas Chrisostomou explores remote LOWER MUSTANG, with its captivating landscapes, ochre cliffs, and windswept plateaus that offer a stark contrast to the kingdom’s lush valleys in the south.

114 ART AND AESTHETICS IN INDIA’S FAMED PINK CITY

Hidden within a web of ancient walls, JAIPUR has been an open-air exhibition since it was founded in 1727. Built by master craftsmen and shaped into a cauldron of creativity, Joe Mortimer discovers that the famed pink city is the artistic heart and soul of Rajasthan.

96 TRANSCENDING CONVENTIONAL BOUNDARIES WITH A LENS

Encompassing editorial, commercial, and fine art, and one of the industry’s most sought after photographers, MIRANDA PENN TURIN ’s distinctive work is celebrated for weaving narratives that captivate and resonate on an emotional level. The Cultured Traveller chats to the acclaimed American photographer.

68 IS THIS CENTRAL EUROPE’S FINEST HOTEL SUITE?

Designed by acclaimed interdisciplinary architect Piero Lissoni and seemingly hovering over the Hungarian capital, overlooking the city’s rooftops in every direction, Nicholas Chrisostomou road-tests Budapest’s newest presidential suite, perched atop DOROTHEA HOTEL.

48 WIN A FOUR-NIGHT STAY IN DUBAI’S HISTORIC HEART

The winner of our Tenth Anniversary Edition prize will stay at slick new MERCURE DUBAI DEIRA, which is located in the heart of one of the most historic parts of the city, where age-old souks sit side-by-side with modern architecture.

30 REST YOUR HEAD

14

NEWSFLASH

From the Greek island of Aegina’s annual celebration of the pistachio nut, AEGINA FISTIKI FEST, and Australia’s annual two-kilometre beachfront sculpture exhibition, set on the spectacular Bondi to Tamarama coastal walk, SCULPTURE BY THE SEA, to the LOPBURI MONKEY BANQUET for macaques in Thailand, and Naomi Campbell’s new exhibition at London’s V&A, NAOMI IN FASHION, in NewsFlash, The Cultured Traveller team rounds up standout events happening around the world during the coming months.

Each offering a unique stay experience in a beguiling destination, The Cultured Traveller checks into twelve new hotels around the world, including solar powered Norman Foster-designed reserve-like NUJUMI resort, surrounded by the untouched crystalline waters of Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea; expansive one-of-a-kind private villa in Tanzania, SINGITA MILELE, which offers a front-row seat to the Great Migration, and Auberge Resorts Collection's stylish South Carolina coastal getaway, THE DUNLIN.

78 CITY FOCUS: LJUBLJANA

Brimming with cultural and architectural thrills at every turn, Demelza Oxley is captivated by Slovenia’s compact, charming and unassuming capital city of LJUBLJANA, which buzzes with its own distinct identity.

106 TURRETS & TOWERS:

CASTLE ELVIRA

Oozing style and glamour from every artistic nook and cranny, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits bijou Italian CASTLE ELVIRA in Puglia, which has charmed everyone who has stayed within its charismatic walls, since it debuted in 2022.

127 FASHION ICON:

ZANDRA RHODES

The iconic fashion pioneer, designer, and national treasure, ZANDRA RHODES, chats to The Cultured Traveller about a new memoir which tells the fascinating story of her colourful life thus far.

138 TASTE & SIP REVIEW: RIJKS

Located within Amsterdam’s iconic Rijksmuseum, every dish served at Michelin-awarded RIJKS celebrates local, seasonal ingredients, and is a testament to the chefs’ commitment to quality and creativity.

143 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER:

PAPER MOON LONDON

Nicholas Chrisostomou checks out the smart new London outpost of a family-

owned Italian restaurant brand, that was born in Milan in the nineteen seventies.

148 SHANGHAI’S FOOD SCENE

A vibrant blend of traditional flavours and global cuisines, China’s largest city offers everything from street food to fine dining and everything in between. Brian Bergey explores SHANGHAI’s sizzling streets.

158 SUITE WITH A VIEW: MLN KONGDE LODGE

Perched at an altitude of 4,250 metres on the edge of Kongde Ri, directly facing five of the world’s highest mountains, including Everest, MLN KONGDE LODGE is seemingly on top of the world.

161 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in the Tenth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller magazine.

162 ANNA SUI’S TRAVEL TIPS

Very much an icon of today’s fashion industry, American designer, ANNA SUI, shares her tips for flying between the States, Asia, and Europe.

30

148 50

33

138

JOE MORTIMER

➤ SPOTLIGHT ➤ JAIPUR

A UK travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News, Joe is an avid wine enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating a corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.

BRIAN BERGEY

➤ FOOD SCENE ➤ SHANGHAI

Born in Portland, Oregon, Brian is co-founder and CEO of Lost Plate Food Tours, a culinary tour company with locations throughout China and SE Asia. As a previous global tech executive and serial expat, he is passionate about creating memorable experiences for other travellers. Since leaving the States some 15 years ago, Brian has lived in London, Singapore, and Beijing and is happiest when he’s globetrotting.

DEMELZA OXLEY

➤ CITY FOCUS ➤ LJUBLJANA

British-born and currently thriving in Copenhagen, freelance product designer Demelza channels her spare time into globetrotting and exploring her passions for design, nature, and gastronomy. At the time of writing, she has visited almost 60 countries, and Demelza’s impressive portfolio includes work for Bang & Olufsen, not to mention crafting materials for use in British Airways' First Class suites.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Joe Mortimer, Howard Healy, Aarin Husain Demelza Oxley, Brian Bergey

WITH THANKS TO

Jason Friedman, Namgyal Sherpa, Pradyot Rana

Elena Sen, Lee Sutton, Zandra Rhodes, Jeannette Ho

Harvey B-Brown & Steve Riseley, Cameron McNeillie

Miranda Penn Turin, Kelly Robinson, Polona Ponikvar Maša Puklavec Polutnik, Aleksandra Lipej

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté, London

Editorial ➤ words@theculturedtraveller.com

Subscriptions ➤ subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

➤ ISSUE 47 © 2024 Coco Latté. All rights reserved

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Read the digital version of the Tenth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller magazine here: ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/ 47

Follow The Cultured Traveller on @theculturedtraveller @culturedtraveller

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ. LONDON W2 1AY, UK

COVER: The Nilgiri Mountains as seen from Shinta Mani Mustang resort in Lower Mustang, Nepal. Shot by Aarin Husain in June 2024.

GIVEN THE CELEBRATORY spirit of this issue, it feels completely appropriate that the cover story should champion two things that are most important to The Cultured Traveller, namely remote, unspoilt destinations, ripe for discovery, and the part that Mother Nature plays in a world which we are blessed to be able to criss-cross and explore.

I’M SURE THAT I’M NOT the only one for whom a socalled “hidden gem” has turned out to be about as undiscovered as the Eiffel Tower! So it is with great excitement, not to mention a degree of trepidation, that I travel to Lower Mustang in the north of Nepal, to delve into the ancient culture of an enchanting kingdom of untamed lands bordering Tibet (page 50)

Also in this Tenth Anniversary Edition, Joe Mortimer heads to Rajasthan and discovers a cauldron of art and creativity behind Jaipur’s famous pink walls and imposing forts (page 114) Meanwhile, in the heart of central Europe, Demelza Oxley is captivated by Slovenia’s charming and unassuming capital of Ljubljana, which buzzes with its own distinct identity (page 78).

Acclaimed American fashion photographer, Miranda Penn Turin opens her albums especially for us, and chats about her life through a lens and her valuable humanitarian work (page 96). And British fashion’s unstoppable dame, the inimitable Zandra Rhodes, talks to The Cultured Traveller about her revealing new memoir and the wonderful stories it tells (page 127).

A DECADE OF #CULTUREDTRAVELLING IS something of a landmark, and so I must obviously thank everyone who is involved in making this publication happen – from our writers, designers, and printers, to every destination, hotel, restaurant, and vineyard that has so warmly hosted us over the years, and made our assignments such a treat.

Happy, inspiring, and cultured travels to you all,

Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com

From left to right: Dame Zandra Rhodes ; Jaipur; Photo shot by Miranda Penn Turin in Rwanda; Ljubljana

Indulge in the epitome of opulence amidst the regal ambiance of Matild Palace, nestled along the picturesque Danube River. Immerse yourself in unparalleled vistas from our meticulously designed rooms, signature suites and rooftop bar. Discover a world of luxury at Matild Palace, where every moment is a celebration of grandeur.

EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT WWW.MATILDPALACEBUDAPEST.EU

FROM THE GREEK ISLAND OF AEGINA’S ANNUAL CELEBRATION OF THE PISTACHIO NUT, TO A TWOKILOMETRE COASTAL SCULPTURE EXHIBITION IN AUSTRALIA, AND A BANQUET FOR MACAQUE MONKEYS IN THAILAND, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ROUNDS UP STANDOUT EVENTS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD DURING THE COMING MONTHS

AURORA

FESTIVAL

IN THE NORTHERN Aegean Sea, the small Greek island of Samothrace is home to the mythological Sanctuary of the Great Gods, also known as the Samothrace Temple Complex. One of the principal Pan-Hellenic religious sanctuaries located on the island, the temple was built around 1000 BC by the Thracians to worship their fertility deities. The sanctuary was also the location of a mystery school that attracted worshippers from the entire Greek and Roman world for more than a thousand

years. Today, Samothrace is home to annual psychedelic and trance music Aurora Festival, for people who want to discover the cosmic secrets of this sacred island. Aurora is used by many people as a spiritual forum, to express their concerns about the environment, world peace, racism and other cultural current affairs. Many prominent Greek artists, painters, musicians and other creative types also participate in the five-day event, together with a number of well-known DJs.

30 August - 3 September 2024 www. facebook.com/aurorafestival.gr

REGATA STORICA DI VENEZIA

FOR MORE THAN 2 YEARS, Venice’s colourful carnival is undoubtedly the city's most famous annual event. But devoted fans of La Serenissima, as the city is affectionately nick-named, never miss the Regata Storica. Dating back to the 13th century, this intensely historical event takes place on the first Sunday of September annually, and is an opportunity to view the city's iconic waterways as they might have looked when Venice ruled the seas, and Venetian artists like Canaletto immortalised Venice in paintings. Often led by an ornate, historical boat, known as a bissona , a regal water procession kicks off the regatta at 4pm, beginning in the waters off St. Mark's Square, and ending at the gothic palace of Ca' Foscari. Consisting of a flotilla of antique boats, elaborate bissone and sumptuous gondolas, complete with sailors and passengers sporting period costume, this extravagant spectacle is an incredible sight to behold. University crews from different countries, in eight-oared galleons, also compete in a captivating race.

1 September 2024 www.regatastoricavenezia.it/en

The Sanctuary of the Great Gods

ONAM

FEATURING HUNDREDS of kilometres of coastline and beaches fringed by the Arabian Sea, Kerala is defined by its varied and layered landscape, both geographically and culturally. Having been exposed to so many foreign influences over the years, it’s a world away from the rest of India, and boasts a unique culture and diverse religious traditions. According to popular legend, Onam harvest festival is celebrated to welcome King Mahabali, whose spirit is said to visit Kerala at the beginning of Chingam, the first month of the Hindu Malayalam calendar. This is a time when, after three months of heavy rains, the skies clear and turn blue, forests become a lush, deep green, lakes and rivers overflow, and lotuses and lilies are in full bloom. People put flower mats in front of their houses to welcome the king, reap the harvest, celebrate, and generally rejoice. Traditional activities during Onam are centered around worshipping, music, dancing, sports and, above all else, eating, the most impressive part of the festival being a grand, 26-dish feast called Sadya 15 September 2024

https://onamfestival.org

AEGINA FISTIKI FEST

SET IN THE SARONIC Gulf, Aegina is renowned throughout Greece as an island of artists. Hundreds of painters, sculptors, photographers and potters routinely decorate yards, gardens, halls, streets and various other parts of Aegina with their works, including some internationally famous artists among them. Fifteen years ago, a small group of enthusiastic individuals with vision created the Aegina Fistiki Fest,

essentially to promote and support the cultivation of the island’s characteristic pistachio nut. Today, some of the nation’s best singers and most talented composers have become the festival’s focus, performing to audiences of thousands alongside dance groups, musicians, and theatrical shows. The opening ceremony is usually a colourful extravaganza not to be missed.

12-15 September 2024

https://fistikifest.gr

GREEN MOON FESTIVAL

TOGETHER WITH THE nearby Colombian islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina, San Andrés forms part of its namesake archipelago and is surrounded by the Sea of Seven Colours, which has been declared by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve, due to the area’s immense biodiversity. Islanders believe in the mysticism and magic of the Green Moon and its power to make the wishes of those who dream of it, come true. Such rich Caribbean culture and miles of

breathtaking coastline make San Andrés an utterly idyllic destination and, of course, provide excuses to celebrate. Founded of the tropical rhythms of calypso, reggae, soul and gospel, combined to create a distinctly native island sound, during this festival, the music is influenced by European colonists and Africans, and international performers from neighbouring Caribbean nation also invited to take part, with guest musicians flying in from all over the world. Mid-September 2024

www.facebook.com/fundacion.greenmoon

BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL

HELD EVERY YEAR SINCE 1956, showcasing exceptional British filmmaking alongside international work, the 2024 BFI London Film Festival’s programme spans features, shorts, fiction, documentary, artists’ moving images, restorations, animation and films for families, as well as a number of titles destined for awardsseason glory. The 68th outing of this much-loved movie fest will present a wide array of features in more than a dozen venues, representing a variety

OKTOBERFEST

DRINK BEER BY the litre, feast on traditional Bavarian foods, be entertained by live bands, and carouse away the days and nights with thousands of other revellers from all over the globe at the world's largest volksfest, held annually in Munich, the Bavarian capital. Oktoberfest is a 16-day folk festival running from mid-September through to the first weekend of October, held in the city’s Theresienwiese area

of languages, genres and filmmaking styles. The huge schedule of events, the quantity of films shown as well as the large number of creators in attendance make this festival one of the most important of its kind in Europe. This year’s opening night gala will be the world premiere of Blitz , directed, produced and written by Academy Award and BAFTA winner Steve McQueen. The world premiere of Blitz marks a return to the festival by the London-born director who has opened it twice before, with Widows in 2018 and Mangrove in 2020. 9-20 October 2024 www.bfi.org.uk/lff

(often called the Wiesn, for short), close to the center of Munich. The Schottenhamel tent is the place to be if you want to catch the official opening ceremony on 21st September, since it is here, at 12 noon, that the Mayor of Munich taps the first keg of Oktoberfest beer. Now in its 189th year, the festival is a mammoth event, spread over 35 hectares, with dozens of beer tents and a massive fairground.

21 September - 6 October www.oktoberfest.de/en

CÍRIO DE NAZARÉ

ONE OF THE MOST sizeable Catholic manifestations on the planet and widely regarded as the "Christmas of the Amazon", since it is has been held on the banks of the famous river since 1793, Belém do Pará, in the north of Brazil, annually plays host to Círio de Nazaré in honour of Our Lady of Nazareth. On the second Sunday of October, a wooden image of Our Lady proceeds from Sé Cathedral to Sanctuary Square in what is one

of the world's largest religious processions, lasting around five hours. Blending sacred and profane elements, reflecting the rich multicultural nature of Brazilian society, vast numbers travel from across the country to attend Círio. And while local devotees build altars and welcome visitors warmly, children noticeably accompany their parents throughout the festivities, thus ensuring the transmission of this important Brazilian heritage between generations. 13 October 2024 www.ciriodenazare.com.br

FRANKFURTER BUCHMESSE

FIRMLY ESTABLISHED as one of the most important events in the global literary calendar and the largest book fair in the world, thousands of publishers, authors, retailers, illustrators, librarians and multimedia suppliers from around the globe, converge on the German powerhouse city of Frankfurt for its annual book fair to exchange information, launch books, and negotiate the sale of international publishing rights. Now in its 76th year, visitors can look forward to an especially large number of stages, authors, stars and experts from the world of publishing and the media. For 2024, the book fair’s guest nation is Italy – a country renowned for its vitality and progressive spirit. This spirt is reflected in a long history of scientific discovery and fine art, as well as a rich literary tradition. 16-20 October 2024 www.buchmesse.de

NEW YORK CITY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

BORN IN 2007 AS A one-nighter called SWEET, the New York City Wine and Food Festival (NYCWFF) is considered to be the largest foodie gathering in the state, featuring more than 80 events providing something for every palate. NYCWFF is widely recognised for its tasting events that celebrate America’s favourite foods, intimate dinners with world-famous chefs, late night parties, hands-on classes, educational seminars and wine tastings. Driving the festival is a

commitment to support New York’s leading provider of life-sustaining meals and nutrition counselling, God’s Love We Deliver. Over the course of the festival’s four days and offering a diverse range of dishes and culinary experiences at a range of price points across New York City, culinary giants, celebrity chefs, mixologists, vintners and foodies from around the globe unite to eat and drink with 100% of the festival’s proceeds going to hunger relief organisations. 17-20 October 2024

https://nycwff.org

SCULPTURE BY THE SEA

STAGED ON THE spectacular Bondi to Tamarama

coastal walk and dotting this famous two-kilometre Australian coastline with pieces ranging from the arty to the otherworldly, Sculpture by the Sea is one of Sydney’s most popular events, with some half a million visitors viewing more than 100 sculptures produced by artists from around the world. What began in 1997 as a single-day event run by volunteers, is today a vast free exhibition that captures the imagination of Sydney and its visitors for three weeks every spring. The largest annual sculpture exhibition in the world, Sculpture by the Sea generates an almost unprecedented level of love and goodwill amongst the general public and visiting travellers alike.

18 October - 4 November 2024

https://sculpturebythesea.com

DIWALI

FESTIVALS FORM AN integral part of India’s culture and are at the heart of people’s day-to-day lives across the vast nation. The country’s biggest annual celebration of Diwali – commonly referred to as The Festival of Lights – is an ancient five-day festival celebrated on the 15th day of the Hindu month of Kartika. It marks the victory of light over darkness, hope over despair, and the freedom of Guru Hargobind Ji from imprisonment in 1619 by Mughal Emperor Jahangir, who at the same time released 52

VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE

NEW YORK CITY’S

annual Halloween parade is perhaps America’ wildest public participatory event, held in arguably one of the most vibrant and diverse cities on the planet. Unlikely to disappoint, the 51st annual Village Halloween Parade promises to be as wild, colourful and creative as ever, and will see tens of thousands of costumed party-goers parade through the streets of the Big Apple. Founded more than half a

political prisoners from Gwalior Fort. Hence, Diwali is the cause for much reverence and nationwide good cheer. An important tradition in India, participants clean their homes before the festival and celebrate with friends and family by sharing food and exchanging gifts. At night, houses are lit with electric lights, candles, lamps and torches and numerous fireworks are set-off, providing spectacular displays that symbolise the awareness of inner light and the triumph of good over evil.

25-29 January 2023

1 November 2024

century ago by master mask-maker and puppeteer, Ralph Lee, this year’s ghouls will be led by puppeteers Alex Kahn and Sophia Michahelles together with hundreds of puppets, dozens of bands of varying musical styles, dancers, circus performers and floats, all watched by a multitude of spectators. After the parade, everyone will adjourn to Webster Hall for the official after party shenanigans.

31 October 2024

https://halloween-nyc.com

JAZZFEST BERLIN

INCREDIBLY POPULAR as a music destination for both fans and artists alike, Berlin is simply teeming with musical variety. From jazz to opera and everything in between, some of Berlin's clubs are open all weekend while many of its music venues attract some of the biggest names. Founded in 1964 in West Berlin by the Berliner Festspiele and originally called the Berliner Jazztage, JazzFest Berlin is an annual, globally renowned jazz festival. Curated by Nadin

Deventer who strives to create an open and diverse festival, which showcases established and younger jazz artists with different musical backgrounds, the festival collectively celebrates the diverse styles of jazz music. Increasingly presenting artists from all around the globe, with an emphasis on contemporary European jazz, gigs are held in Berlin's well-established jazz clubs across the city, including Quasimodo and A-Trane.

31 October - 3 November 2024

www.berlinerfestspiele.de/en/jazzfest-berlin

TRACING ITS ROOTS back to 1980, Bacolod’s world-famous MassKara festival was introduced as a way to boost morale after poor sugarcane sales, plus a tragedy that took the lives of 700 people. Since then, this vibrant and highly colourful festival in the affectionately known “City of Smiles” has become a much revered annual happening. 27 October 2024

https://lovepilipinas.com

BARRILETES GIGANTES FESTIVAL

WHILST MANY countries worldwide mark the Christian festival of All Saints’ Day with family gatherings and silent prayers, Guatemala's residents transform their country into a land of colour with their Barriletes Gigantes festival, which translates to "giant kites" in English. Dating back to the pre-Colombian era, before the arrival of European influences on the American continent, this traditional festival is a year-long endeavour which takes place in the towns of Sumpango and Santiago Sacatepequez on the first day of November annually. Made from thick paper stretched over bamboo frames, with some more than nine metres in diameter, the enormous kites are hand-painted by locals throughout the year, and flown over the graves of their family members while flowers are strewn on the ground below. With dozens of kites on display, all promoting peace and companionship for the living, Barriletes Gigantes is a fascinating and colourful festival to experience.

1 November 2024

BLACK-NECKED CRANE FESTIVAL

CONSIDERED A sacred bird in Bhutan and the only alpine crane species in the world, the black-necked crane is celebrated annually during this unique festival, which takes place in one of the county’s oldest and largest Nyingmapa monasteries. Revered as a symbol of longevity, every November, several hundred cranes travel from their summer breeding grounds on the Tibetan Plateau, to this picturesque Bhutanese valley, to feed on the dwarf bamboo that grows in its alpine wetlands. An opportunity for the Bhutanese

to rejoice and celebrate the arrival of this endangered and majestic bird – which is an inseparable part of their daily lives during the winter months – locals sing folk songs and perform cultural dances and conservation-themed dramas themed around the environment and the protection of the graceful cranes, whose presence is believed to bring about bountiful harvests and prosperity. Drawing an increasing number of travellers, the one-day festival also creates a valuable revenue stream for the Bhutanese.

11 November 2024

THAT LUANG FESTIVAL

LAOS BOASTS literally hundreds of Buddhist monasteries, temples and stupas. Located on the north-eastern bank of the Mekong, Vientiane's relaxed atmosphere is something of a rarity amongst the world's capitals. Its grand stupa, Pha That Luang, was built over an ancient stupa in the 16th century by King Setthathirath, when he moved the capital. It has since become the national symbol of Laos and is profoundly revered by all its countryfolk. Once a year for three days, That Luang stupa is the focus of a three-day religious festival celebrated at full moon in November, beginning with a pre-dawn gathering of thousands of pilgrims from Laos and Thailand, who listen to prayers and sermons chanted by hundreds of monks all representing Lao wats. There follows a grand procession to pay homage to Lady Si Meuang, who was crushed to death as the city’s foundation pillar was about to be planted.

15 November 2024

STRAWBERRY FIELDS

HELD IN A BEAUTIFUL Murray River site in Tocumwal, a New South Wales town in Yorta

Yorta Country on the Victorian border, Strawberry Fields was founded in 2009 and celebrates the finest present-day music, complete with art installations, market stalls and workshops, whilst simultaneously respecting the ancestors and elders of the people of Tocumwal and Berrigan Shire where the festival is held. Visitors are invited to arrive on the Thursday, to secure the best camping sites and mark the start of the festival at a party that night, before embarking on days of adventures which include exploring music in all its forms and discovering new grooves across numerous stages set on the riverbanks. Live jazz quartets play alongside musical legends, disco DJs and emerging new artists, laying down everything from techno and house to hip-hop, funk and experimental sounds, making Strawberry Fields a veritable musical carnival for those lucky enough to attend. 15–17 November 2024 www.strawberry-fields.com.au

LOPBURI MONKEY BANQUET

AROUND THE SAME time as America celebrates Thanksgiving, the last Sunday of November in Thailand, is reserved for the Lopburi Monkey Banquet, which is held north of Bangkok in the central provincial capital of Lopburi. In this part of the world, countless monkeys have adapted to life in an urban environment and become an inherent part of the local culture. Despite their pick-pocketing tendencies and unpredictable attitudes, these fellow primates have free reign of the metropolis and are welcome to enter public buildings and traverse roads just like any other citizen. And, once a year, the world’s wildest dinner party is held in honour of the city’s macaque monkeys at the historic Khmer temple of Prang Sam Yot. As you can imagine, the sight of some three thousand macaques tucking into a lavish feast – which includes tons of fresh produce, rice, ice cream and other tasty monkey treats – is a spectacle not to be missed.

24 November 2024

Pha That Luang (stupa), Vientiane

rest your

FROM A NEW SOLAR POWERED, NORMAN FOSTER-DESIGNED RESERVE-LIKE RESORT, SURROUNDED BY THE UNTOUCHED CRYSTALLINE WATERS OF SAUDI ARABIA’S RED SEA, TO AN EXPANSIVE ONE-OF-A-KIND PRIVATE VILLA IN TANZANIA, OFFERING A FRONT-ROW SEAT TO THE GREAT MIGRATION, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER PRESENTS TWELVE NEW HOTELS AROUND THE WORLD, THAT EACH OFFER A UNIQUE STAY EXPERIENCE IN A BEGUILING DESTINATION

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➤ MAKUNUDHOO ATOLL

➤ KIAWAH RIVER ➤ CAP CANA

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➤ TOSSA DE MAR ➤ GRUMETI RESERVE

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➤ MYKONOS ➤ TAMUDA BAY

➤ UMMAHAT ISLANDS

SONEVA SECRET 2024

ONE OF THE WESTERNMOST INHABITED AREAS OF THE year-round glistening Maldives, within the administrative region of Haa Dhaalu Atoll, remote, secluded and unspoilt Makunudhoo Atoll is surrounded by sparkling crystal-clear waters which are home to colonies of majestic manta rays, pods of curious dolphins, and gentle whale sharks, alongside shoals of colourful tropical fish. It is here that Soneva recently unveiled its newest hospitality gem, building upon almost three decades of making incredible Maldivian memories for thousands of discerning holidaymakers.

Soneva Secret 2024 features just 14 beach and overwater villas. They include lagoon Crusoe Villas, accessible only by boat, and the Maldives' first completely floating villa, Castaway. As well as oversized master suites, including roofs that slide back to reveal star-strewn skies, every villa also features spacious adjoining bedrooms.

The brand’s renowned ultra-intuitive service reaches new heights at Soneva Secret Resort, for every villa is serviced by a dedicated, barefoot

team of two – one guardian and one assistant – who are committed to curating incredibly personalised stays, in tandem with one-of-a-kind experiences.

The resort’s 14 private chefs (one for each villa) conjure up delectable bespoke menus and craft curated culinary journeys, which are savoured in the privacy of the villas, or enjoyed in the island’s most picturesque spots, in the company of Mother Nature.

Other dining experiences include Out of This World – a castaway dining tower, observatory and wine cellar set in the lagoon, reachable by zip-line, and the resort’s casual dining and lounge-styled hub, known as The Living Room, which is also home to a library, boutique, ice cream room, chocolate room, and a cheese and charcuterie room.

By day, guests embark upon sunset dolphin cruises, and guided snorkelling expeditions in the company of the resort’s resident marine biologist. And by night, they navigate the clear skies and observe the Milky Way, casually twinkling above.

www. soneva.com

THE DUNLIN

LOCATED 25 KILOMETRES FROM HISTORIC CHARLESTON in South Carolina, Kiawah River is an enchanting waterfront community where the Lowcountry's natural beauty is seamlessly intertwined with refined living.

Set along the picturesque banks of the Kiawah River, the community offers an idyllic retreat, enveloped by expansive marshlands, meandering waterways, and ancient oak trees draped in Spanish moss. Residents and visitors alike enjoy a plethora of outdoor pursuits, from kayaking through serene creeks to exploring scenic trails that showcase the area's diverse flora and fauna.

Nestled within the Kiawah River community on Johns Island, stylish new Auberge Resorts Collection's hotel, The Dunlin, opened last month, named after a beautiful local shorebird.

A charming coastal escape and the first of its kind in this unique destination, The Dunlin feels very much like a sophisticated Southern summer home, and embodies whimsical charm and unparalleled experiences in unspoilt nature, designed to awaken the explorer within.

Amanda Lindroth-designed interiors invite guests to experience the bliss of coastal living, with elegant guest rooms and suites reflecting the region's traditional architecture whilst deftly providing a pleasing blend of comfort and sophistication. Guests enjoy exceptional service, fine dining that showcases local flavours, and a range of first-class leisure amenities including a serene spa and outdoor pool.

Nothing short of a haven of tranquility and refinement, The Dunlin not only provides unforgettable stays, but also celebrates the rich heritage of South Carolina, and the simple joys that come with living on the river.

https://aubergeresorts.com

SANCTUARY CAP CANA

A JEWEL ON THE EASTERNMOST TIP OF THE DOMINICAN Republic, Punta Cana is where the Caribbean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean in a dazzling display of nature’s grandeur. Renowned for its pristine beaches, this tropical paradise is framed by swaying coconut palms and brilliant turquoise waters that stretch as far as the eye can see. The coastline, with its powdery white sand, is an idyllic setting for relaxation and adventuring alike, offering endless water sports opportunities, from snorkelling in vibrant coral reefs to exhilarating deep-sea fishing.

Punta Cana is equally captivating inland, with lush, verdant landscapes punctuated by a rich tapestry of flora and fauna. The serene countryside, dotted with small villages, provides a glimpse into local Dominican culture and traditions. The area’s natural beauty is further highlighted by the sprawling ecological parks, where visitors can explore tropical forests, cascading waterfalls, and hidden caves. Punta Cana’s breathtaking scenery and tranquil atmosphere make it a premier destination for travellers seeking both relaxation and adventure.

Located just 15 minutes from Punta Cana International Airport and the Caribbean’s finest golf course, sprawling new 324-room all-inclusive

adults-only resort, Sanctuary Cap Cana, combines storied Colonial-style architecture and carefully considered design with impeccable service and lavish accommodation across 19 categories inspired by the timeless beauty of Europe’s Mediterranean coast. These include private island suites, with exquisitely furnished terraces and private pools overlooking the sea.

Part of The Luxury Collection, guests can choose from six tranquil pools for relaxation, or spread out in a private cabana on the beachthe perfect place to lounge all day, soak up the sun, and unwind while savouring local and international cuisine and delectable handcrafted cocktails. Meanwhile, for those seeking a haven for the senses, the resort’s sumptuous Sanctuary Spa is a sublime oasis of pure indulgence, where Ayurvedic treatments and hydro and cutting-edge therapies combine to provide the ultimate spa experience.

Set in one of the Dominican Republic’s most coveted areas, with the turquoise waters of the Caribbean as its backdrop, Sanctuary Cap Cana provides discerning travellers with the most memorable of luxury vacations in a convenient all-inclusive format.

www. sanctuarycapcana.com

SIX SENSES KYOTO

NESTLED IN THE KANSAI REGION ON JAPAN’S HONSHU ISLAND, Kyoto is a city where ancient tradition seamlessly blends with modern charm. Sitting in a valley surrounded by lush mountains, that are particularly stunning during cherry blossom season and the autumn months, Kyoto was the imperial capital of Japan for more than a thousand years. Steeped in history, today Kyoto serves as the heart of Japanese culture, religion, and art, and is home to numerous UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the serene Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) and the majestic Fushimi Inari Shrine, famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates.

Throughout the city, traditional wooden machiya houses and tranquil Zen gardens reflect Kyoto’s historical significance, while its bustling markets, such as Nishiki Market, offer a taste of local life.

Kyoto’s rich tapestry of history and culture, and its picturesque and intensely historic architectural landscape, make it an essential destination for those seeking to experience the real soul of Japan.

Situated amongst the ancient capital’s heritage shrines and iconic palaces, Six Senses Kyoto opened earlier this year, drawing its design inspiration from the Heian period (794-1185), which is considered by many to be the golden age of art and culture, that gave birth to the concept of miyabi (courtly elegance). This heritage is reflected in the hotel’s contemporary Japanese architecture, which incorporates elements of traditional arts and crafts to create a unique and elegant ambiance.

This design narrative extends to the hotel’s 81 guest rooms and suites, which universally offer a sanctuary for contemplation. Specialty suites – from a garden suite with an enchanting private Japanese courtyard, to an impressive three-bedroom penthouse suite – offer extended space for reconnection. All bedrooms promote peaceful slumber via bespoke organic mattresses, temperature regulating pillows and duvets, and organic cotton sheets.

A highlight of the hotel is undoubtedly its peaceful Zen-inspired spa, which integrates traditional healing techniques with modern science. A Kyoto-exclusive Ah-un treatment symbolises the pursuit of inner peace, balance, and awakening in Zen, through a series of rituals and harmonising body and sound therapies. Watsu (aquatic bodywork) relieves any tension in the mind and body through hydro-therapeutic moves and stretches in the city’s only dedicated pool for the treatment. And for those looking for a smart solution to swiftly rebalance after flying, before moving onto the next destination, the spa's Biohack Recovery Lounge is equipped with a variety of state-of-the-art devices.

www.sixsenses.com

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers five-star luxury in a unique historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur, the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites (including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful Garden Terrace, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy the varied selection of dishes available at award-winning restaurant Bridges, Mediterranean Oriole Garden Bistro and on the beautiful Garden Terrace; an oasis of peace and tranquility, situated in the heart of the city. In the afternoon, you can withdraw to the Library ‘Or’ to enjoy The Grand Afternoon Tea, with or without a glass of champagne. If you are looking for the perfect place to unwind in the heart of Amsterdam, pamper yourself at Sofitel SPA with a beauty treatment or relax after a few laps in the pool.

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - 1012 EX Amsterdam T +31(0)20 555 31 11 - www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com

LA ROQQA

A TRUE GEM ON THE TUSCAN COAST, PERCHED ON THE Monte Argentario peninsula, Porto Ercole is a picturesque seaside town that offers a harmonious blend of storied history and coastal beauty just one and a half hours from Rome. This enchanting village, nestled along the Tyrrhenian Sea, boasts a rich maritime history dating back to the Etruscans, which later flourished under Spanish control in the 16th century.

Porto Ercole’s architecture is a captivating blend of past and present. The town is dominated by impressive fortresses, such as the 16th-century Forte Stella and the formidable Forte Filippo, which stand as testaments to its past strategic importance. The historic centre is a labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets lined with pastel-coloured houses, leading to a modest harbour where small yachts juxtapose traditional fishing boats. Elegant piazzas, buzzing with local life, and quaint churches which echo tales of centuries gone by, further add to the town’s beguiling charm.

Owned by a Swedish family who spent their summers on nearby Argentario Island, after spending three years completely renovating the property, La Roqqa is something of a new hospitality destination in the area they love.

A luxury boutique 55-room hotel overlooking the harbour, La Roqqa was designed by Palomba e Serafini Associati Studio to combine artisanal furnishings with key pieces from the 1960s and 1970s, with a colour scheme that reflects Porto Ercole’s local buildings. Exuding contemporary and cosmopolitan chic throughout, complete with a gem of rooftop restaurant

and bar, while the hotel is immersed in the social and architectural fabric of the community that surrounds it, in time, La Roqqa will surely transform this delightfully sleepier part of the riviera into a year-round hive of fun and frolicking. www.laroqqa.com

Porto Ercole

ZEL COSTA BRAVA

100 KILOMETRES NORTH OF BARCELONA AND THE SAME distance south of the French border, nestled on the rugged Costa Brava coastline in Catalonia, historic Tossa de Mar is a captivating seaside town renowned for its beaches, lighthouse, and fortified medieval village, the latter being the only example still standing on the Catalan coast. A serene Spanish haven where nature’s beauty and historical richness converge, the town is embraced by the Mediterranean Sea on one side and lush, rolling hills on the other, creating a stunning natural landscape and providing panoramic vistas across the Mediterranean Sea.

The first place in the world to declare itself an Anti-Bullfighting City in 1989, Tossa de Mar's coastline is adorned with golden sandy beaches and secluded coves. And the surrounding hills are blanketed with fragrant pine forests, offering scenic hiking trails, alive with the fragrance of rosemary and thyme, complete with spectacular views of the azure waters below.

Barely 10 minutes from Tossa de Mar and the second hotel co-created by Rafael Nadal and Meliá Hotels International, ZEL Costa Brava opened its doors this summer to welcome lovers of wellness and the Mediterranean lifestyle.

Styled as a home-away-from-home where active well-being, relaxation, rest, and fun all seamlessly intertwine, an exceptionally wide variety of activities are available in the hotel to revitalise the body and mind, while connecting guests with an active lifestyle community.

To ensure the healthy, physical and emotional balance of its guests, ZEL Costa Brava features a large spa with a heated outdoor pool overlooking

the mountains; a sea-view sun terrace; a steam room; a sauna; a sizeable gym kitted-out with state-of-the-art equipment, and two rooms for group and personalised training sessions. And, thanks to its prime location, guests can participate in more than 40 different sports.

A hotel concept with a refreshing aesthetic based on the spontaneity, energy and family values of the Mediterranean, whether couples or families, ZEL Costa Brava provides the ideal setting for a holiday focused on rest, fun, and well-being. www.hellozel.com

SINGITA MILELE

NESTLED IN THE HEART OF THE WESTERN SERENGETI, THE Grumeti Reserve is a hidden gem in Tanzania's vast wilderness.

Spanning over 350,000 acres, this private reserve is positioned along the migratory route of the great wildebeest migration, making it a prime location for witnessing one of nature’s most spectacular events. All around, the reserve's landscape is a mosaic of rolling savannahs, lush riverine forests, and undulating hills, interspersed with pristine streams and the meandering Grumeti River.

Teeming with diverse wildlife, towering giraffes and majestic elephants roam the reserve’s plains, while stealthy leopards and powerful lions lurk in the shadows, epitomising the raw beauty of the African wilderness. The reserve is also home to an array of antelope species, hippos wallowing in the river, and vibrant birdlife – from colourful bee-eaters to mighty eagles.

Three years in the making, led by South African HK Studio, Singita Milele is an expansive one-of-a-kind villa offering complete privacy and a front-row seat to the Great Migration, when the surrounding reserve becomes a theatre of life

and death, as thousands of wildebeest and zebras brave the crocodile-infested waters of the Grumeti River.

Villa guests enjoy the epitome of Serengeti luxury, courtesy of five individuallydesigned suites – Journey, Pride, Coalition, Dazzle, and Crash – each with its own unique identity that pays tribute to the Serengeti’s iconic wildlife. Layered in natural tones and textures to echo the surrounding wilderness and the features of their namesake species (namely giraffe, lion, cheetah, zebra, and rhino), each suite has outdoor showers, a bar-deli, and a private deck, with some also enjoying lounge areas, dressing rooms, and workspaces. Unique contemporary African art and curated design pieces, fashioned by local artisans, feature throughout the property, further celebrating the setting and deepening Singita Milele’s unique sense of place, with its unspoiled beauty and abundant wildlife.

Whether exploring the bush on foot or surveying the reserve in an open-air gameviewing vehicle, guests universally enjoy unforgettable safari experiences. And in the evenings, a private boma and firepit ensure enchanted starlit evenings to recount the day’s incredible adventures in the wild heart of the Serengeti. www.singita.com

THE VIEW AGADIR

SITUATED ON THE SUN-DRENCHED ATLANTIC COAST OF Morocco, Agadir is a vibrant city renowned for its long sandy shores, sheltered waters, modern amenities, and one of the country’s liveliest night scenes. Nestled at the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, this coastal gem enjoys more than 300 days of sunshine per year, making it a year-round destination.

Rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1960, its history punctuated by resilience, today Agadir is a modern African metropolis which retains its rich heritage. The city’s medina, which was reconstructed in traditional style, is a testament to Moroccan craftsmanship. Wander through its labyrinthine alleys to discover bustling souks brimming with spices, textiles, and handcrafted goods, while the aroma of local cuisine fills the air, enticing visitors to sample tagines and fresh seafood.

Agadir is also a good base for hiking trips nearby, especially in Paradise Valley, with its emerald waters at the bottom of towering rock walls. The Souss-Massa National Park is a prime place for birdwatching. And those able to navigate the twisting mountain roads are rewarded with charming, traditional Berber villages where ancient traditions live on.

With direct access to Agadir's most picturesque beach, the latest addition to the View brand opened in March 2024 and has already elevated the bar of Moroccan hospitality in the region, with its emphasis on bling-free elegance, sustainability and personalised service, coupled with authenticity and a sense of place. Indeed, the design of The View Agadir draws its inspiration from a register of nomadic codes influenced by Moroccan culture. And

the patterns adorning the textiles throughout the property are of rich significance, representing friendship, family happiness, and hospitality. Committed to buying from and working with Moroccan artisans, cooperatives and businesses that are as responsible and ethical about the environment, hand-crafted pieces created by local artists adorn the walls of the hotel's 272 rooms and suites, with a palette of blue, white and neutral colours creating serene spaces in which to unwind. And private balconies and terraces enjoy calming vistas of the pool, palm-fringed gardens, and the shoreline and ocean beyond https://theviewhotels.com

Agadir Medina

Just 15 minutes’ from the airport, set against the serene backdrop of the Atlas Mountains’ snow-capped peaks, Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech offers an array of luxurious suites and spacious villas to suit leisure and business travellers alike.

An award-winning 18-hole golf course, a variety of restaurants and bars, swimming pools, a well-equipped fitness center, and a sumptuous spa make our world-class resort the perfect place to enjoy a Marrakech cultural immersion, a relaxing and rejuvenating escape, or an action-packed adventure-filled vacation, complete with attentive service and genuine hospitality.

HYDE BODRUM

NESTLED ON THE SOUTHWESTERN COAST OF TURKEY, Bodrum is a dazzling Aegean jewel renowned for its historic charm, archaeological sites, azure waters and happening beach clubs. Mild winters and hot, sun-drenched summers make Bodrum a popular year-round destination for locals and international globetrotters alike.

Bodrum’s history is rich and varied, dating back to ancient times, when it was known as Halicarnassus. It is the birthplace of Herodotus, the 'Father of History,' and is home to the site of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Today, the remnants of this illustrious past blend seamlessly with the town’s modern allure. And in recent years, a number of new boutique hotels and luxury resorts have opened to cater for the increasing number of discerning travellers.

Opening earlier this year, adults-only all-inclusive Hyde Bodrum hotel brought an infectious energy to the chilled-out shores of the peninsula, with music-filled days and carefree nights, and varied programming ranging from yoga sessions to live performances, and electric DJ sets to match the cosmopolitan vibe.

Framed by a lush, pine-scented national park and flowing down towards the golden sands and turquoise waters of Torba Bay, Hyde Bodrum encourages guests to connect with the spectacular natural beauty of its setting, as well as each other. Signature Hyde elements, including massive

art installations and an endless sofa in the lobby, inspire spontaneous interaction and conversation between both strangers and friends. Oversized windows and expansive open spaces create inviting, light-filled guest areas throughout. Five restaurants and bars cater to guests’ every culinary desire. And spanning a range of categories, from entry-level General Admission rooms, to rock star VIP Platinum suites, each of the hotel’s 212 rooms, suites and villas are designed to recharge and revitalise, complete with thoughtful amenities needed after a day of exploration or non-stop partying.

www.hydehotels.com

NAMMOS HOTEL MYKONOS

A CYCLADIC GREEK ISLAND GEM IN THE AEGEAN SEA, YEARin-year-out, Mykonos enchants visitors with its striking natural beauty, serene landscapes, energetic party scene, and rich cultural heritage.

The island’s pristine beaches, including Agios Sostis and Agios Ioannis, boast crystal-clear waters and golden sands, perfect for long, lazy afternoons bathing in the sun and sipping cocktails. Mykonos Town, with its whitewashed buildings and bustling, winding alleyways, is an energised hive of activity virtually every night during the summer season. And historic attractions abound island wide and beyond, with the ancient ruins of Delos, a short boat ride away, unmissable for culture vultures. Mykonos’ famous windmills still stand as sentinels overlooking the harbour, while the16th-century Panagia Paraportiani church, with its unique architectural blend, is a testament to the island’s spiritual heritage. Whether planning to dance ’til dawn or explore the island’s fascinating history, a visit to Mykonos is always memorable.

Situated in the south of the island, between Platis Gialos beach and Ornos beach, some five kilometres from Mykonos Town, Psarou Beach is one of Mykonos’ busiest and most popular and routinely attracts globetrotting celebrities. Set directly on Psarou Bay’s golden sands, Nammos Hotel Mykonos is home to 26 luxurious rooms and suites, as well as three exceptional private villas, all enjoying breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea and serviced by butlers 24/7.

Just a few steps away lie the recognisable teal and white umbrellas of Nammos Beach club, where hotel guests can lounge in private cabanas or recline on plush daybeds, in the thick of Psarou Bay’s party scene, complete with a non-stop roll-call of some of the world’s top DJs during the summer months. As the sun sets over the Aegean, guests can feast on fine Mediterranean cuisine at Nammos Restaurant or order a selection of delectable fare to be delivered to their rooms. And the morning after, an onsite spa offers a range of rejuvenating treatments sufficient to elicit life from even the most disco damaged of guests! www.nammoshotels.com

THE ST. REGIS LA BAHIA BLANCA RESORT

SITUATED ON MOROCCO’S NORTHERN ALBORAN COAST, lapped by the shimmering Mediterranean Sea, Tamuda Bay is an emerging destination that offers relaxed luxury and tranquility in equal measure. Positioned between Tétouan and the Spanish enclave of Ceuta, Tamuda Bay a treasure trove of natural beauty and cultural richness, deftly combining the finest elements of Morocco’s coastal allure, including pristine beaches, rolling hills, and verdant greenery. And its Mediterranean climate ensures mild winters and warm, sunny summers, making it an inviting destination throughout the year.

Culturally, the region is also rich with history. The UNESCO World Heritage city of Tétouan offers a glimpse into Morocco’s Spanish-Moorish past, with its well-preserved medina and Andalusian architecture. Ancient ruins whisper tales of Roman and Phoenician civilisations, providing a fascinating glimpse into the region’s past. And visitors can explore immersive local markets brimming with artisanal crafts, vibrant textiles, and traditional Moroccan cuisine.

Marking the debut of St. Regis Hotels in Morocco, new La Bahia Blanca Resort recently opened offering an oasis of luxurious indulgence in the epicenter of Tamuda Bay.

Exuding Moroccan charm throughout and paying tribute to the area’s Andalucian cultural heritage in the resort’s design, 100 rooms and suites offer breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea, and guests enjoy direct

access to a beautiful white sand beach, together with the brand’s renowned signature butler service.

The resort’s culinary offerings include an all-day dining restaurant, beachside bar and grill, and an iconic St. Regis bar with an adjacent Library. Meanwhile an abundance of leisure facilities includes a full-service spa, a large pool, and a state-of-the-art fitness center. www.stregis.com

Fringed by the sparkling waters of the western Aegean Sea, and set against a lush, hilly backdrop adorned with colourful bougainvillea, Maçakızı is truly in a hospitality world of its own.

NUJUMA

A VERITABLE PARADISE FOR NATURE ENTHUSIASTS , NESTLED in the crystalline waters of Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea, the Ummahat Islands offer a serene escape into unspoiled natural beauty, characterised by stunning coral reefs, pristine beaches, and vibrant marine life.

One of the Kingdom's regenerative tourism destinations on the west coast of the country, The Red Sea is surrounded by the world's fourth-largest barrier reef system and an archipelago of more than 90 untouched islands. In this enchanting setting, visitors can embark upon extraordinary snorkelling and scuba diving adventures to uncover seldom visited sites beneath the waves. Vivid coral reefs, that have thrived for more than five thousand years, are home to over 165 endemic reef fish, dolphins, sea turtles, stingrays and Napoleon wrasse. Meanwhile on land, the islands' shores are fringed by rich mangroves, known to be one of the most productive ecosystems in the world. And within these lush habitats, a variety of sea birds, marine invertebrates and havali guitarfish can be spotted. Beyond the turquoise waters, adventurers can explore the coastal mainland via guided trails across majestic desert dunes.

Powered solely by 100 percent renewable solar energy and nestled within The Red Sea’s captivating Blue Hole cluster of islands, where pristine coral

reefs thrive beneath the surface and a celestial canopy above paints an endless tapestry of stars, the private island retreat of Nujuma is a rare 63-villa resort branded a Ritz-Carlton Reserve estate. Set amidst one of the world's most secluded and protected archipelagos, at Nujuma, every encounter reveals something new and brings guests closer to the beauty of the destination.

Designed by Foster and Partners, Nujuma’s sweeping shellinspired architecture and elegant interiors are crafted with natural materials imbued with calming sea and sand tones, and geometric patterns reminiscent of the region’s design motifs. Arabic artefacts, traditional ceramics, woven Saudi patterned rugs, and intricate wall hangings celebrating local craftsmanship, harmoniously flow through the canopied interiors. Lush landscaping of indigenous plants elegantly frames the pathways between the pavilioned spaces and accommodations. And a selection of overwater and beach villas, offering up to three bedrooms, spacious living areas, and private pools overlooking the sea, provide guests with marvellous, transformative views of this stunning part of the world. www.ritzcarltonreserve.com

explore the city's historic heart from mercure dubai deira WIN

A FOUR-NIGHT STAY FOR TWO PEOPLE AT MERCURE DUBAI DEIRA , INCLUDING ROUND-TRIP AIRPORT TRANSFERS; DAILY BREAKFASTS; ONE PAN-ASIAN DINNER; ONE SUMPTUOUS LUNCH FOR TWO; A COOKING CLASS; A PRIVATE GUIDED TOUR THROUGH HISTORIC DEIRA; AN IN-ROOM COUPLE’S MASSAGE, AND A ROOM SERVICE DINNER

PRIZE DRAW

LOCATED AT AL YAZIA Plaza in the heart of one of the most historic parts of the city, where age-old souks sit side-by-side with modern architecture, Mercure Dubai Deira stands as a new beacon of contemporary hospitality.

Situated within a leisurely stroll of a number of cultural attractions, including the gold and spice markets, and offering easy access to the city’s public transport system, the hotel is the perfect base from which to explore exciting Dubai.

Dining at Mercure Dubai Deira is a journey of culinary delights, and features all-day-dining Farmstead; Pan-Asian restaurant Blue Panda; lobby lounge café Souk Nook, and vibrant Atmos pool bar for sundowners.

A well-equipped rooftop fitness center offers panoramic vistas of the city, as does a sparkling infinity pool, where guests can enjoy the Dubai skyline in style, while sipping a handcrafted cocktail. https://mercure.accor.com

Mercure Dubai Deira

LOWER MUSTANG NEPAL

the gateway to a wealth of tibetan culture

NESTLED IN THE SHADOW OF THE ANNAPURNA AND DHAULAGIRI RANGES IN NORTHERN NEPAL, AND POSITIONED ON AN ANCIENT TRADE ROUTE TO TIBET, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EXPLORES REMOTE LOWER MUSTANG, WITH ITS CAPTIVATING LANDSCAPES, OCHRE CLIFFS, AND ANCIENT GOMPAS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARIN HUSAIN

Jomsom Valley

IN A WORLD WHERE INCREASING globalisation has connected even the remotest corners of our planet, the thrill of discovering truly unexplored and unspoilt destinations has become increasingly rare. The intrepid traveller often finds that many so-called "hidden gems" have already been polished by the footprints of countless visitors. But in the midst of the soaring Himalayas, there remains a place where ancient

culture and untamed landscapes endure, mostly unblemished by the modern world.

POSITIONED ON AN ANCIENT TRADE ROUTE to Tibet, until relatively recently, Lower Mustang remained an unchartered treasure, largely inaccessible to international tourists. Its rugged terrain and remote location, shielded by mountains all around, kept it off the beaten path. Only in the past

few decades, with the easing of travel restrictions and the development of trekking routes has this ancient region begun to reveal its secrets to the outside world.

Nestled in the shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges in northern Nepal, and previously pretty isolated, Lower Mustang today invites adventurous travellers to uncover its pristine landscapes and explore its intensely rich cultural heritage.

OFFERING AN AUTHENTIC ESCAPE INTO a realm where time seems to have stood still, Lower Mustang allows visitors to experience the scare purity of true exploration amongst its arid valleys and windswept plateaus. In stark contrast to the lush green valleys of southern Nepal, Lower Mustang is moody and ruggedly beautiful.

Carved by the Kali Gandaki River, valleys’ stark, ochre-hued cliffs rise majestically against azure skies,

Crossing Jomsom Valley towards Thini Thini village

their ancient strata seemingly whispering tales of millennia. Dotted with eerie monasteries, timeless villages, and sacred temples, the barren terrain evokes an ageless sense of solitude. And the interplay of light and shadows on the arid hillsides creates a mesmerising dance, captivating the hearts of all who visit with its otherworldly charms.

HISTORICALLY, LOWER MUSTANG WAS part of the Kingdom of Lo, an independent Tibetan Buddhist kingdom that flourished for centuries. The region’s strategic location along the trade route between Tibet and India made it commercially important. Today, the remnants of this kingdom can be seen in the ancient settlements and secluded hamlets that pepper the landscape, each echoing tales of a rich and storied past.

The region’s culture is deeply intertwined with Tibetan Buddhism, and Lower Mustang is home to numerous gompas, some of which date back more than 500 years, where the daily rhythms of life are still guided by ancient rituals and regular prayer.

REACHING LOWER MUSTANG BY PLANE is an adventure in itself. The journey begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara – a gateway city nestled beside a tranquil lake and surrounded by the Annapurnas. From Pokhara, a short but exhilarating flight on a small aircraft takes us to Jomsom, the entry point to Lower Mustang. As our plane approaches Jomsom Valley, strong winds require the pilot to make a sudden tight bank and noisy turn, which unexpectedly provides us with a dramatic, if somewhat startling introduction to the region's untamed charms.

Khinga stupa, Jwang village

THE SCENERY WE ARE GREETED WITH AS WE exit the tiny airport is dramatically different to Kathmandu a few hours earlier. We could almost be on a film set. Jomsom town is a small settlement that serves as a vital hub for the region. With its mix of traditional stone houses, basic shops and grocery stores, and narrow dusty streets, Jomsom exudes a rustic charm. The town's backdrop is dominated by towering snow-capped peaks creating a dramatic contrast to its modest, earthy architecture. Despite its remote location, Jomsom slowly pulses with local life; instantly offers us a glimpse into the spirit of the region's inhabitants, and we begin to better understand the rare experiences that lie ahead in the coming days.

OUR LUGGAGE IN ONE VEHICLE AND US IN another, we set off for Shinta Mani Mustang in the company of Abishek, one of the resort’s guides. Calm and reserved, he was born in the area and is extremely knowledgeable. As he drives us up a bumpy track towards our base for the next five days, we get a better view of the long and broad valley into the middle of which we have just landed. The scenery is striking in a sensitive yet ethereal way.

I CAN’T PUT MY FINGER ON IT, BUT THERE’S A tangible transformative quality to Shinta Mani Mustang which is palpable as the threshold is crossed, akin to entering a spiritual retreat which is in seamless alignment with its setting, at a height of

All photos : Marpha Village

3,000 metres above sea level. Most evidently, the buildings sit naturally within their surroundings and don’t visually impair the milieu in any way.

Once inside, Bill Bensley’s soothing décor is a harmonious blend of Tibetan tradition and sophisticated modernity. Warm hues of deep reds and dark browns envelop the serene interiors, alluding to the rugged landscapes outside. Handwoven textiles, adorned with intricate patterns, are draped across covetable leather and timber armchairs. Soft candlelight flickers against walls hung with Tibetan art, creating an atmosphere of mysticism. Checking-in is like returning to a home-away-from-home, and as I walk to my room, of which there are just 29, I genuinely feel overcome by

a sense of peace and calm, which feels completely appropriate for the ancient mountain kingdom.

THE BEAUTY OF SHINTA MANI MUSTANG is that a curated and tried-and-tested program is prepared for every guest, and all excursions and meals – whether picnicking on the edge of Dumba Lake, or dining on a themed feast in the resort’s Nilgiri restaurant – are included in the nightly rate. Showcasing Lower Mustang’s cultural highlights, my itinerary features a variety of carefully selected sights, including a number of villages and monasteries, together with routes which offer extraordinary vistas and once-in-a-lifetime photo ops.

A little worn-out having just completed a 12-day expedition to Everest Base Camp, I decide to skip most of the suggested treks. Instead, in a bid to repair my tired body, I plump for a daily treatment in the resort’s spa and begin by meeting with Tsewang Gyurme Gurung.

An 11th-generation amchi, Tsewang practices one of the oldest and most well-documented medicinal systems in the world, known locally as Sowa Rigpa. During my personal consultation, his perception of my life habits is uncanny and he imparts some useful, detailed advice which I attempt to heed. Tsewang also runs the property’s wellness centre and personally curates the treatments I am to have over the coming days, including a special, personalised tea. It’s not until I check-out that I realise how much Tsewang’s care and supervision contribute to a distinct sense of renewal I feel at the end of my stay.

Left to right: Lubra village; monastery overlooking Lubra; Marpha village

THROUGHOUT THE FIVE DAYS, WE ARE efficiently ferried around by Abishek and his colleagues, who are amply equipped for the day’s events. The first village visited is Thini, embraced by mountains on the other side of the valley. To get there, we drive down to Jomsom, park the 4x4 and walk, first crossing a long suspension bridge, followed by a short hike up to the village.

Perched on a rugged hillside, Thini is completely deserted when we arrive at around lunchtime, and the silence is almost spooky, like all of the village’s inhabitants have somehow been removed. Only the rustle of prayer flags and the occasional creak of a wooden gate break the surreal stillness. Weathered stone houses line sandy narrow alleys, a few of their doors ajar, hinting at life. The absence of villagers creates a peaceful, almost meditative atmosphere, as if the village itself is resting, waiting for its inhabitants to return. We meet a few cows, a couple of dogs, and spot an old man sleeping inside his

tiny shop. Otherwise there is no-one. We later discover that Thini’s people are working the fields; adjust the timing of other village visits accordingly; and Marpha, the next day, provides some insight into Nepalese rural life.

SURROUNDED BY NATURE AND FAMOUS for its apple orchards, traditional stone houses line Marpha’s narrow flagstone streets, which appear to have been more recently constructed to attract passing trekkers to pit-stop. Largely original otherwise, Marpha is charming and well worth visiting, not least to meet renowned chef and local civic leader, Mrs

Kamala, who prepares an authentic meal, especially for us, in her adorable home set over two levels in the heart of the village. Her homemade Thakali cooking is delicious. Radiating genuine kindness, Mrs Kamala is a delight to be around and we leave her company feeling warm inside.

THE FOLLOWING DAYS ARE SPENT GETTING AN overall feel for the lay of the land by visiting a number of monasteries, Buddhist temples, and villages that time forgot – every one essentially deserted. This makes wandering around an utter delight, not to mention a privilege, none of which is lost on us as we

Mount Dhaulagiri

Muktinath

Lubra village

cross countless rivers and valleys, negotiate mountain ridges, and cover some fair distances on our quest for culture and knowledge. Since permits are still required for tourists to enter Mustang, and the kingdom was only opened up to the general public in the 1990s, exploring the region feels like a real adventure of discovery, and, apart from Muktinath, we don’t bump into other tourists for the duration. Few places left on earth offer travellers such space to explore and sightsee.

LOCATED AT AN ELEVATION OF MORE THAN 3,500 metres, between Kagbeni and the famed pilgrimage site of Muktinath, the historical Tibetan village of Jharkot is seemingly frozen in time. Again almost deserted, we amble between crumbling ruins, ancient dwellings and empty houses, and walk round an old gompa. A frayed stupa must be decades, if not centuries old. A face makes a brief appearance at a lofty window to look at us, but retreats the second she’s been spotted, never to resurface. We pass what apparently used to be a palace and meet a friendly horse in residence. An elderly local lady, clutching a small bag of groceries, pays no attention to us while proceeding to spin some sacred prayer wheels that are probably older than she, each wheel a unique expression of devotion. The tableau is surreal yet

somehow strangely normal now and emblematic of the authenticity of Lower Mustang.

IN AMONGST VISITING TEMPLES, MEETING locals, wandering around derelict forts and exploring ageold villages, certain meals are niftily arranged in different locations by the Shinta Mani Mustang team, often in unique settings, or places inaccessible to others which surely require special permissions. One such event is literally held atop an old monastery in the ancient village of Jhong. After ascending dozens of steps to the roof of the building, upon which a table is already laid, complete with everything you’d expect in a restaurant, we are rewarded with spectacular panoramic vistas of the entire valley and a delicious four-course lunch. Even the monastery’s toilets have been spruced-up by Shinta Mani to ensure they are clean and fully equipped. Satiated after a good lunch, we make our way to a revered pilgrimage site for Hindus and Buddhists.

CRADLED IN THE HEART OF THE HIMALAYAS, Muktinath is a sacred sanctuary where the heavens are said to meet the earth. Located in a valley at the foot of the Thorong La mountain pass, it is one of the world's highest temples, perched at an altitude of 3,762 metres, at the summit of 250 steps which everyone must climb to reach it.

Jharkot village

Parang village

An ancient Vishnu temple complex, also known as Mukti Kshetra, which literally means "the place of liberation", Muktinath draws hundreds of Hindus and Buddhists daily, all seeking spiritual enlightenment. They worship the Hindu deity Vishnu and Buddhist deity Avalokiteśvara respectively, and, while the air is thick with the scent of juniper and the murmurs of prayer, they walk under 108 sacred water spouts, which are fed by crystal-clear natural springs. Believing that these waters cleanse devotees of their sins and purify their souls, for all who make the

journey to visit this sacred site, Muktinath is both a spiritual embrace and a journey into the divine.

THE LAST VILLAGE WE VISIT IS LUBRA, AN 800-year-old settlement only accessible by traversing the Panda Khola River gorge, whose lunar like terrain is both arresting and breathtaking in equal measure. We stop and get out of the 4x4 multiple times to survey the incredible scenery, before making our way to Lubra.

One of the last remaining strongholds of the ancient Bon religion of Tibet and Nepal, that

has been observed since time immemorial, the people of Lubra have their own distinct set of beliefs and practices and are unwaveringly committed to preserving the village’s heritage for generations to come. A veritable journey back in time to the roots of Bon Buddhism, seeing Lubra and meeting some of its people is a fitting end to an intense immersion of Lower Mustang, that is as fascinating as it is eye-opening, the memories made surely destined to be lifelong.

IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO VISIT LOWER MUSTANG are not be struck by the timeless quality of life and the fact that traditions have remained largely untouched by modernity. The stark beauty of the enduring landscapes, combined with the warm hospitality of the Thakali people, creates a unique atmosphere that is both magical and welcoming. Providing adventurous travellers with a rare glimpse into an ancient realm where history, culture, and nature are inextricably linked, Lower Mustang utterly enchants those lucky enough to experience this remarkable part of Nepal.

SHINTA MANI MUSTANG

JOMSOM, MUSTANG, NEPAL

15 MINUTES' DRIVE FROM JOMSOM AIRPORT, WHICH IS connected to Kathmandu via two short flights, Shinta Mani Mustang stands as a beacon of contemporary and understated luxury amidst the stark beauty of the Himalayas.

Taking its architectural cues from Thakali culture, the property was built in 2017 by Nepalese architect, Prabal Thapa, in Baglung stone and local timber, to blend harmoniously with the rugged surrounding landscape. Low-slung and elegant, the long two-storey structure is beautifully unpretentious and radiates warmth and calm throughout, palpable upon arrival. Over-sized windows frame breathtaking views of the mountains to the front, making the dramatic landscape an inherent part of the experience.

Run as Moksha Mustang for its first few years of operation, in April 2022, the property was taken over by highly respected Nepalese hospitality brand, Sherpa Hospitality Group, which is helmed by the son of the first Nepalese woman to summit Everest, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa. Also owners of a collection of deluxe lodges in the Everest and Annapurna regions, not to mention uber-cool Nomad hotel in Kathmandu and a number of restaurants

in the capital, Sherpa Hospitality joined forces with pioneering hotel designer Bill Bensley, and Shinta Mani hotel brand, to transform the property into a Himalayan haven and luxury jumping-off point for Mustang. This they have achieved and more, positioning Shinta Mani Mustang as a destination resort for five-night minimum stays, to give guests ample opportunity to explore the local Nepali-Tibetan highland culture, as well as appreciate the incredible views, rather good in-house food, and inviting spa. At the end of a five-night stay, The Cultured Traveller team would have been more than happy to stay longer!

Inside, Bensley has transformed the interiors to echo the tranquility of the Himalayan surroundings. Rich, earthy tones dominate the palette, with deep reds, warm browns, and gilt touches creating a serene and inviting atmosphere. Handwoven Tibetan rugs adorn the polished wooden floors, while intricate tapestries and local art pieces hang gracefully on the walls, offering a tactile connection to the area's cultural history. Plush seating areas, softly illuminated by lanterns, provide intimate spaces for reflection and relaxation. At sunset every day, a huge cauldron of fire is lit outside, to

signal the start of the evening, which usually begins with hand-crafted cocktails in atmospheric Aara Bar, facing the Nilgiri mountains, followed by dinner in the resort's 60-seat Nilgiri restaurant. Here, chef Krishna Subedi conjures up different culinary surprises every night, including themed menus and regional specialties. Guests can also order something moresimple and every dietary preference is catered for.

Breakfasts are hearty, leisurely and highly enjoyable affairs, served by attentive waiters al fresco on the patio, and are a marvelous way to begin a day of exploration.

The 29 lofty guest rooms at Shinta Mani Mustang are nothing short of private sanctuaries of comfort and elegance. 45 square metres and fashioned in the style of suites, each is thoughtfully designed to offer a luxurious retreat, featuring king-sized beds dressed in fine linens, dressing areas, armchairs, and a blend of modern and traditional furnishings that exude taste and sophistication, with welcome added touches of Bensley’s quirkiness here and there. Massive windows look directly towards the spectacular mountain range in-front of the property, its peaks covered in snow and clouds drifting by, day and night. If there is anywhere in the world to sleep with the curtains open, it is here, for the uninterrupted views are both hypnotic and addictive in the best possible way, and an utter delight to wake-up to. https://shintamanimustang.com

Suite The Living Room

SEEMINGLY HOVERING OVER THE HUNGARIAN CAPITAL, LOOKING ACROSS ITS ROOFTOPS IN EVERY DIRECTION, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ROADTESTS BUDAPEST’S NEWEST PRESIDENTIAL HOTEL SUITE

STRADDLING THE MIGHTY DANUBE, which separates hilly Buda from flat Pest, and often resembling an evolving unfinished symphony as one wanders its storied streets, a long and chequered history has dealt Budapest more than its fair share of highs and lows. But the story of Hungary’s epic history is being told once again, this time with added vigour, courtesy of a determined and aspirational population revitalising all aspects of the nation's majestic capital, which meanwhile gently exudes grandeur and ceremony citywide.

Long hidden behind the Iron Curtain, the Hungarian capital today offers one of the most happening metropolitan panoramas in Europe, brimming with rich

cultural heritage from every pore. Hence in recent years, Budapest has rightfully regained its reputation as one of the most vibrant capitals of central Europe, not least for its ability to both embrace and champion the past, present and future. Indeed, old frequently meets new in Budapest, not least in its burgeoning food scene, cool restaurants, buzzing cafés, and renowned nightlife. Not to mention a wealth of imposing historic buildings juxtaposed with contemporary architecture, and iconic city landmarks reborn by real estate developers. And of late, hoteliers particularly have been queuing up to breathe new life into some of the city’s resplendent old buildings, three of which are now occupied by the swish new Dorothea, which opened at the end of 2023.

NAMED AFTER AUSTRIAN ARCHDUCHESS

Maria Dorothea of Württemberg, who was a pivotal figure in the city’s history, an influential character in 1800s Hungary, and fuelled Budapest’s economic development in the 19th century, Dorothea Hotel is located slap-bang in the middle of lively BelvárosLipótváros, otherwise known as District V, on the edge of Vörösmarty Square. Occupying an entire city block, the hotel fills three grand buildings, all steeped in history, that date back to different eras.

The oldest, the Neo-Renaissance Weber building, was erected in 1873 and acted for decades as the headquarters of the United Budapest Metropolitan Savings Bank. Built in 1913, the Art Nouveau Mahart building was home to the headquarters of the

Hungarian River and Sea Shipping Company. And the youngest of the trio, the Modernist, Münnich building, is almost eighty years old and sports Art Deco and Bauhaus embellishments. The daunting job of bringing together these three historic buildings fell to Milan-based Lissoni & Partners.

COURTESY OF ACCLAIMED INTERDISCIPLINARY

architect and designer Piero Lissoni and his team, the resulting hotel is a visually pleasing yet somewhat modest blend of architecture and interior design, that deftly fuses history and modernity in Lissoni’s signature elegantly minimalist style. Standing as a unified whole behind the buildings' preserved original façades, the hotel maintains

architectural harmony with its surroundings and blends-in with the cityscape. Indeed, one could easily walk past Dorothea without knowing that behind its unpretentious entrance lies a sprawling 216-room hotel, painstakingly merged from three buildings and arranged around a vast covered internal courtyard.

INSIDE,

THE HOTEL

SKILFULLY

AND tenderly evokes the charm of Hungary’s golden age, and feels very much like a calm hospitality haven, where the stately past merges with the contemporary present, and the capital’s bustling streets are left behind once past the main doors and pausing amongst the magnificent columns in the foyer, seemingly in Dorothea’s embrace. Humble yet stylish and well-dressed public spaces cleverly pay homage to Budapest’s cultural heritage, while more than 600 pieces of photographic art, by local artist Zoltán Tombor, inject a playful element.

GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES ARE DIVIDED into two design categories, Contemporary and Heritage, the former being characterised by a soft beige colour palette with orange accents, dark timber flooring, and peacock blue curtains. Located in the (oldest) Weber building and identifiable by doors sporting portraits of women from the 1800s, sourced from the Hungarian National Gallery, Heritage rooms are smarter and more subtle, and feature four-poster beds, and large windows which frame soft furnishings accented with subtle floral embroidery inspired by local folk motifs.

AT THE HEART OF THE HOTEL, THE VAST inner garden and courtyard stretches from the ground floor, soars towards the sky, and is topped by a

cavernous glass roof. An airy architectural triumph, the space is home to Pavilon Restaurant. Here, guests and locals alike sip curated pre-dinner cocktails at the bar, and dine on moreish modern interpretations of Hungarian cuisine fashioned from fresh ingredients sourced within a 200 kilometre radius of Budapest, including some hailing from Pavilon’s succulent herb wall.

A chic bar, coffee shop and deli on street level, Anton, subtly references the Danube via shimmering blue shingles.

Below ground, a sprawling sanctuary-like fullservice subterranean spa complex, complete with multiple treatment rooms, an indoor swimming pool, sauna, steam room, and a very well-equipped gym,

invites guests to switch-off, relax, and unwind with a holistic facial using high-end German Babor products.

WIDELY RECOGNISED AS A MASTER OF international design, Piero Lissoni is responsible for the creation of everything from emotive objects and functional accessories characterised by pure lines, to sleek kitchens, covetable furniture, and even yachts, as well as highly-designed buildings, of course. Fashioned by Lissoni’s team, it is perhaps unsurprising therefore, that the Dorothea is crowned by what is undoubtedly the finest hotel suite in Budapest today.

Named after the Archduchess’s influential husband, Palatine Joseph, Dorothea’s hospitality crown jewel is a huge, dual-aspect, one-bedroom hideaway atop the

hotel. Completely secluded and overlooked by no-one, the suite uniquely enjoys 270-degree vistas across the heart of the Hungarian capital, via walls of floor-to-ceiling windows that curve around the main space, together with generous wraparound terraces looking out over Budapest’s rooftops, that include a wet area and private party-sized jacuzzi. The views in all directions – particularly towards St. Stephen’s Basilica – are nothing short of mesmerising, sufficient to persuade me to remain within the suite's stylish confines for an entire weekend, and not venture out of the hotel until I head to the airport.

LIGHT TIMBERS LINE THE FLOORS OF THE main entertaining space, which is divided into

generous areas for lounging, eating and drinking, and includes a bespoke marble dining table that easily accommodates eight, seated in soft, cosseting shellshaped carvers. Throughout, statement furniture by everyone from heritage German brand Knoll to iconic 20th century French designer Charlotte Perriand, sits side-by-side with covetable modern pieces that include sofas by B&B Italia and a chaise by Louis Vuitton. The overall effect, despite being design-led, is warm, inviting and entirely liveable. There is even a separate table for two, to breakfast or catch-up with emails while enjoying the incredible scenery, although I don’t open my laptop once.

A well-equipped jet-black kitchen contains

everything a chef could possibly need to rustle-up a meal, complete with a professional coffee machine, and is all hidden by an architectural dark-wood cocoon that resembles a giant piece of installation art. A powder room, close to the entrance, provides a private space for guests to freshen-up.

DOMINATED BY AN OVERSIZED MODERN four-poster laid with Egyptian linens, the bedroom is completely dedicated to sleeping and is closed-off from the world by massive black-out curtains. A walk-in wardrobe, with a therapeutic infrared sauna, leads to a spacious terrazzo-floored bathroom with the obligatory walk-in rain-shower and deep-soaking tub.

No detail having been over-looked, everything functions perfectly.

I WAKE-UP TO SPELLBINDING VIEWS OF the spires and domes of Budapest’s churches and synagogues, and realise that they are not merely architectural elements, but symbols of the city’s diverse traditions and resilient history, much of which is reflected within the exceptional suite in which I am staying, and embodied in the lovingly designed hotel on top of which it is seemingly floating.

A night in The Palatin Presidential Suite at Dorothea Hotel costs EUR 8,000 including breakfast. https://dorotheahotel.com

LJUBLJANA

A EUROPEAN METROPOLITAN CULTURAL GEM

BRIMMING WITH CULTURAL AND ARCHITECTURAL THRILLS AT EVERY TURN, DEMELZA OXLEY IS CAPTIVATED BY SLOVENIA’S COMPACT, CHARMING AND UNASSUMING CAPITAL CITY, BUZZING WITH ITS OWN DISTINCT IDENTITY

NESTLED IN THE HEART OF CENTRAL EUROPE between Austria and Croatia, with Italy and Hungary at its borders, the Slovenian capital is a captivating blend of rich history, old-world charm, and cosmopolitan energy. Situated along the banks of the Ljubljanica River, framed by the lush, rolling hills of the Julian Alps to the north, and the picturesque Karst region to the south, Ljubljana’s geographical position has long rendered it a significant crossroads of diverse cultures and traditions, resulting today in a beguiling capital with its own distinctive identity, which is worthy of exploration over a long-weekend city-break.

IMAGE: LUKA ESENKO

LEGEND HAS IT THAT LJUBLJANA WAS founded by the Greek mythological hero Jason and his companions, the Argonauts, who stole the golden fleece from King Aetes and fled across the Black Sea and up the Danube, Sava, and Ljubljanica rivers, stopping at a large lake close to the source of the Ljubljanica. Here, they supposedly disassembled their ship, to be able to carry it to the Adriatic, reassemble it, and return to Greece. But the lake was home to a monster, which Jason fought, killed, and is now referred to as the Ljubljana Dragon, and features on the city’s coat of arms.

NOTWITHSTANDING MYTHOLOGY, THE CITY’S history stretches back over two millennia, with its origins rooted in Roman times, when it was known as Emona. Through the centuries, Ljubljana flourished under various influences, from the medieval Holy Roman Empire to Austro-Hungarian rule, each era

leaving its indelible mark on the city’s architectural and cultural tapestry.

After Ljubljana was ruined by a devastating earthquake in 1895, and inspired by ancient Athens, innovative architect Jože Plečnik reimagined and rebuilt the city in a way that not only improved it, but also set a new standard for other European cities. Putting pedestrians and public spaces first, Plečnik also made the progressive decision to close the city centre to motorised traffic – something other European cities would not do for decades. Following the dissolution of Yugoslavia in January 1991, Slovenia declared its independence. Since then, Ljubljana has gradually and quietly flourished, largely under the radar of tourists.

TODAY CROWNED BY ITS MAJESTIC CASTLE , modern Ljubljana harmoniously blends its historical

Ljubljana Castle

heritage with understated contemporary flair. It’s a graceful city – easily walkable and pretty unpretentious. The old town’s Baroque facades and quaint cobblestone streets contrast elegantly with modernist architecture and sleek new buildings that symbolise Slovenia’s progressive spirit. And as a green capital, Ljubljana’s commitment to sustainability is evident in its abundant parks and numerous pedestrian-friendly zones, not to mention a thriving café culture set along its riverbanks.

A MODERN, NEW HOTEL WITH AN EMPHASIS on comfort, located in the very center of the city within easy reach of everything we want to see and do, The Cultured Traveller stays at air-conditioned 148-room Occidental Hotel, complete with friendly staff and hearty breakfasts to fuel busy days or exploration. www.barcelo.com/en

Funicular to Ljubljana Castle

THE PERFECT PLACE TO START AN IMMERSION of the Slovenian capital is undoubtedly Ljubljana Castle.

Perched regally atop Castle Hill in the center of the city, it stands as a testament to the city’s rich history and architectural evolution. It’s best to take the modern funicular up, and amble down at a leisurely pace.

Originally constructed in the 11th century as a medieval fortress, it was extensively rebuilt in the 15th century to fortify against Ottoman invasions. The castle underwent significant transformation again in the 17th century, becoming a grand Renaissance residence. By

the 19th century, it had been repurposed as a military garrison and later as a prison. Today, Ljubljana Castle is a fascinating cultural hub offering interesting museums, art galleries, and historical exhibits, all embodying Slovenia’s enduring legacy and timeless charm.

For younger visitors, the castle’s 60-minute interactive Time Machine storytelling experience features actors in period costume, who breathe life into the pivotal events and figures that have shaped its storied past. Maeanwhile, a peek into the prison cells acts as a sombre reminder of the castle’s darker past.

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Do take the time to climb the steps to the top of the castle’s tower, which was raised by 1.2 metres in 1982, making the upper viewing platform exactly 400 metres above sea level. From this incredible vantage point, you can see the distant peaks of the Julian Alps, and look down on the red-tiled rooftops of the old town, and the shimmering Ljubljanica River which meanders through the city’s heart, its banks adorned with blooming flora and pastel-hued cafes. www.ljubljanskigrad.si/en

HOUSED WITHIN THE CASTLE’S CENTURIESold walls and with a Michelin Bib Gourmand award to its name for many years, before descending the hill, pause for lunch at Gostilna na Gradu. Renowned for its deliciously modern take on Slovenian fare, with an emphasis on seasonal produce, the restaurant is committed to preserving the nation’s culinary heritage. www.jezersek.si/en/locations/ljubljana-castle

Also within the castle, gourmands can dine on five, seven, or nine-course degustation menus of fine cuisine prepared by chef Igor Jagodic, served at the highest point in Ljubljana, at one Michelinstarred Restaurant Strelec. Set within the picturesque round Archer's Tower, dishes are modern and creative with intermittent French and Mediterranean influences, and every menu is a veritable celebration of Slovenian cuisine, reimagined with contemporary flair using the finest local ingredients. www.restavracija-strelec.si/en

AN ALTERNATIVE HUB CLOSE TO THE CITY center, that serves as a safe haven for ideas, creativity and expression, eclectic Metelkova Mesto is renowned for its alternative arts and lively nightlife. Transformed from a squat in a former military barracks, the district boasts a kaleidoscope of street art, graffiti, art installations, and avantgarde clubs, and hosts a plethora of events including exhibitions, concerts, theatrical performances, and clubnights. As I amble around, my visual senses constantly engaged, I chance upon a surreal building which features ghouls intertwined amongst scaffolding, whilst another is adorned with colourful, recycled mosaic elements.

It’s definitely worth spending an evening at Metelkova Mesto and seeing where the night takes you, in venues such as Klub Menza pri koritu, with a programme spanning everything from poetry readings to rock gigs; to Mizzart Gallery, with its psy trance fiestas, and Klub Gromka for lectures, alternative performing arts events, films and live gigs. www.metelkovamesto.org

AFTER BREAKFAST, WANDER AROUND

Ljubljana’s beautiful historic centre to discover the timeless masterpieces of visionary architect, Jože Plečnik, whose vision transformed the city and made it a prime example of how classical and modern styles could be combined to serve its inhabitants. In 2021, UNESCO recognised Plečnik’s achievements, and inscribed his works in Ljubljana and his "humancentered design" on the World Heritage List.

Majestically spanning the Ljubljanica, and welcoming visitors into the old town to a backdrop of the striking salmon-pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, the Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) has connected both sides of the river for more than two centuries. In 1842, the medieval wooden and strategically important central bridge of the three, that used to link south-eastern Europe with the Balkans, was replaced. Between 1929 and 1932, the

side pedestrian Plečnik-designed bridges were added, thus creating a unique architectural landmark.

Home to more than 1.3 million books, the National and University Library also stands as evidence of Plečnik's talent. Completed in the late 1930s, the building's façade is an arresting blend of bricks and stone blocks, with upper windows cleverly designed to resemble open books turned face-down. Inside, 32 columns, crafted from lustrous dark Podpeč limestone, flank a magnificent staircase, which sets the tone for the building’s grandeur throughout. The impressive Grand Reading Room is open to the general public on Saturday afternoons. https://www.nuk.uni-lj.si/

Visiting Plečnik's house provides a unique insight into his life and creative process. Preserved for more than a century, since he died in 1921, the house is essentially a time capsule of his creative genius and is complemented by an exhibition that showcases his prolific body of work.

https://mgml.si/en/plecnik-house

Ljubljanica River

Old town

IMAGE: ANDREJ TARFILA

The National and University Library

IMAGE: ANDREJ TARFILA

SOME 20 KILOMETRES SOUTH OF THE CITY centre, Morostig is a museum and nature park set in the Ljubljana Marshes, where you can delve into the region’s ancient past and explore prehistoric pile dwellings, early lake dwellers, and the biodiversity of the area. A number of extraordinary discoveries were made at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, including the world's oldest known wooden wheel, dating back to around 3100-3350 BC, which was unearthed in 1875 by Slovenian archaeologist Karel Dežman. For those who have the time, an afternoon spent at Morostig provides a profound connection to Slovenia's rich prehistoric heritage. https://morostig.si/en

Back in the city centre, a historic, reimagined 19th century sugar factory provides an equally fascinating venue for an afternoon of culture. A dynamic contemporary space, art, history and innovation intersect at Cukrarna courtesy of exhibitions, thought-provoking performances and a palpable creative energy that pulses through every nook and cranny of the building, complete with windows punctuati ng exposed brick walls and flooding the galleries with natural light. https://cukrarna.art/en

Opposite Cukrarna, Rog is an energetic urban regeneration project and something of a creative incubator. Once an old factory, the space was reborn as Rog Center last year, and is now a haven for designers and sustainable businesses to create anything they wish, in nine production labs where both traditional tools and the latest technologies are at their disposal, complete with a library and skilled mentors on hand. https://center-rog.si/en

JAZ by Ana Ro š

Cukrarna

IMAGE: MIRAN KAMBIC

Triple Bridge (Tromostovje)

Wind-up your culture-infused day at sleek TaBar restaurant in the company of young and immensely talented chef, Jakob Pintar. His inventive tapas dishes with a Slovenian twist, burst with contemporary flavours while showcasing the freshest local ingredients, and are deftly paired with a wide selection of mostly Slovenian wines, including orange wine. www.tabar.sh

Of course, Ljubljana’s culinary landscape is not solely about fine dining. Every Friday from the end of March through October, from 10am until 9pm on Pogačarjev Square in the city centre, Open Kitchen (Odprta Kuhna) food market invites everyone to meet Slovenian chefs and taste different Slovenian foods in a relaxed, laid-back environment. www.odprtakuhna.si/en/

FOR THOSE ON A JOURNEY OF ARTISTIC discovery, a visit to non-profit typography and

printing studio, TipoRenesansa, is a must.

Founded in 2010 by calligrapher Marko Drpić and his wife, jewellery designer Maja Licul (both also graphic designers), their lovingly recreated old letterpress printing shop in the centre of Ljubljana, is the last place in Slovenia where one can experience how printing was done before technology took over.

www.tiporenesansa.com

After printing your own poster, borrow a bicycle and take a leisurely ride west to green oasi, Tivoli Park, where you'll discover a standout Swiss House, locally known as Švicarija. Built in 1835 to resemble an alpine lodge, it contains artists' studios upstairs and the Stojan Batič Memorial Sculptural Studio on the ground floor, which is a faithful reconstruction of the celebrated sculptor's Ljubljana studio.

Nearby, the distinguished International Centre of Graphic Arts (MGLC), set within the Tivoli Mansion

IMAGE:

from the top of the castle’s tower, you can see the distant peaks of the julian alps, and look down on the redtiled rooftops of the old town and the shimmering ljubljanica river, which meanders through the city’s heart

showcases an international collection of modern graphic art, complemented by a working print studio, and is renowned for hosting the prestigious Ljubljana Biennale of Graphic Arts. Don’t miss trying a piece of Prekmurska Gibanica in the museum café – a delicious, traditional layered pastry, with fillings of poppy seed, walnut, farmer's cheese, and apple. https://mglc.si/en

DESIGNED AS AN EVERYDAY PLACE FOR everyone, much like the Slovenian capital, round-off your stay in Ljubljana with an affordable gastronomic journey at JAZ by Ana Roš. Helmed by the acclaimed chef whose creative reimagining of Soča Valley’s traditional dishes is largely responsible for putting Slovenia on the global culinary map, Mother Nature provides the inspiration for Roš’s simple, seasonal shared dishes served at JAZ, which is hidden away in a side-street courtyard. Every plate is masterfully put together using local seasonal ingredients and touches the soul with its fresh and young flavours. A deliciously unpretentious ending to an urban adventure in a humble capital, perhaps. https://jaz.anaros.eu

LJUBLJANA’S MIX OF AUTHENTICITY AND modernity captivates all who visit. Its streets, alleyways, varied architecture and serene river all beg to be explored. From the hilltop castle to lively markets and riverside cafés, the city neatly blends history with contemporary culture. With a strong commitment to sustainability and a welcoming atmosphere, Ljubljana is a destination that lingers in the memory. Whether wandering the historic old town or enjoying tasty local cuisine, the city’s innate sense of grace and calm leaves an intensely pleasing lasting impression, making Ljubljana a place you’ll almost certainly wish to return to. www.visitljubljana.com/en

IMAGE: ANDREJ

TARFILA

miranda penn turin

THE MULTI AWARD WINNING INTERNATIONALLY ACCLAIMED AMERICAN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER, CHATS WITH THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HER LIFE THROUGH A LENS AND HER VALUABLE WORK WITH HUMANITARIAN ORGANISATION VOICES4FREEDOM

The opening shot of a story titled Lucid Dream, shot at Red Rock State Park in California and published in Spirit and Flesh magazine. 2013

BORN IN BOSTON, Massachusetts and specialising in portraiture, fashion, and beauty for more than thirty years, has earned a reputation for being both versatile and extremely easy to work with, making her one of the industry’s most sought after photographers. Celebrated for her distinctive approach and artistic vision, her oeuvre is marked by a nuanced interplay of light and shadow, a testament to her profound understanding of the medium’s technical and aesthetic dimensions.

Penn Turin’s work transcends conventional boundaries, weaving a narrative that captivates and resonates on an emotional level. She has an exceptional ability to encapsulate the essence of her subjects, rendering them with a depth and authenticity that is both compelling and thought-provoking. And her portfolio is as varied as it is impressive, encompassing editorial, commercial, and fine art photography. Every image Penn Turin creates is imbued with a distinctive flair, characterised by a keen eye for detail and a masterful use of composition. Consequently, Penn Turin’s work has appeared in dozens of magazines, including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Details, and Elle, to name but a few. And she is the creative force behind music videos, fashion films, and TV commercials.

Dividing her time between New York and Los Angeles (when she is not shooting all over the world), Penn Turin’s work continues to inspire and challenge, pushing the boundaries of what photography can achieve, and leaving an indelible mark on the visual arts landscape. mirandapennturin.com

Tilda Swinton, shot in the Hollywood Hills for Modern Luxury 2004

When did you first pick up a camera?

I have a snapshot somewhere of a Polaroid Swinger my mom bought me when I was seven or eight. When you looked through the viewfinder, photoreactive pixel-like squares would form either YES or NO to let you know when the light was right to shoot.

Do you think that being born in Boston presented unique opportunities to a fledgling photographer?

In order to be a successful photographer in Boston, one has to shoot everything – people, cars, food, computer parts – or that’s how it was when I was assisting there. It was a great opportunity to learn those skills, even if I never needed them. You’d be amazed at what you have to build in order to take a clean shot of a polished silver bowl, or how to make burgers look edible!

When did photography become more than a hobby? And do you recall there being a pivotal moment?

I was an English major at the University of Pennsylvania, informally minoring in photography. I had always wanted to be a writer and was studying for it, but really didn’t want to teach or work as an editor in a publishing house because I knew I’d be bored to tears. I was standing on the green in front of the campus library, talking about this with a guy from my photo class, and he said, “why not be a photographer?” That was my hinge moment. I couldn’t tell you his name.

Which photographer’s work did you most admire in your formative years?

When I first started taking photography seriously, at around the age of 16, my heroes were Duane Michaels and the Czech photographer, Josef Koudelka. Duane Michaels is such a vital guy – I was on a zoom with him earlier this year, and at 92 he is sharp, funny and opinionated. I still love his work. He did a lot of in-camera double exposures, told stories, and wrote directly on

The cover of Christina Aguilera's album Stripped , shot in Los Angeles. 2002

photos before anyone else did. His work is really smart and beautiful.

Josef Koudelka did a big photo book on Roma culture called Gypsies that is rich, complex, and visually stunning. I adored it when my high school photography teacher showed it to me. I also fell in love with his Widelux images. He finds beauty everywhere and is a member of Magnum, so a photojournalist in the grandest sense.

And today?

There are so many brilliant photographers working today! I mainly gravitate towards portraiture and fashion, but stray into lots more, and especially love great animal photography. He’s a classic, of course, but my touchstone has always been Helmut Newton. Right now I love Txema Yeste, Nick Brandt, and Ruven Afanador. One thing they all have in common is drama, which can be manifested in so many ways, not least the angle, the lighting, the subject matter, and the styling. I love photographers who appreciate drama.

Your greatest education as a young photographer?

Assisting was unquestionably the most comprehensive education I could have gotten. I not only learnt about lighting (which is essential, of course), but also how to relate to clients and meet collaborators. I always encourage young photographers to not skip this step –it’s too valuable.

His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. 2015

How early on did you develop a photographic style?

As a young assistant I worked for a short time with a female fashion photographer in Boston. She was very established and shot big campaigns and editorial. When I first met her, we went for a walk with her Doberman and she told me how important it was for female photographers to support each other. Fantastic, I thought. A kindred spirit. But over the course of the next month, she was intensely abusive. She shrieked at me, and occasionally threw things. One morning, I arrived at her studio at 7am and she screamed, “you fucking cunt! Where’s my coffee?!”

I didn’t stick around long after that.

BUT. She was a decent fashion photographer and watching her work with models inspired me. Afterwards, I focused on fashion, and learned to locate what I love in an image.

What’s your driving intention when you shoot?

I’m always looking for the epic in an image. This can be expressed in captured emotion, an outstanding location, or exemplary work by a creative team. ‘Epic’ of course depends on each viewer’s response to an image as well.

An early photo that you are most proud of?

In 1993 I shot an editorial for a New York-based magazine called Core. It was a latex story featuring a Polish model, Nikka Smolitz, who I’d worked with on a campaign in Germany. We shot at Pier 64 in Chelsea, which was an empty raw warehouse at the time. The model, the styling, the hair and make-up, the location were, for me,

Archbishop Desmond Tutu. 2015

the perfect storm. I’ll always love that story. All props to stylist Rory Gevis and h/mu artist Dawn Jacobson – their work is spectacular.

When did you first meet the Dalai Lama?

I met His Holiness the Dalai Lama in April of 2015. I was contracted to spend ten days with him and Archbishop Desmond Tutu to photograph them for the cover of The Book Of Joy. The entire ten days were non-stop and documented. In my first moment meeting him, we were shooting the reunion between him and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, who prefers to be called Arch. As His Holiness led a friend into his home, he turned for a second to look at me, reached out with a smile, and patted my afro.

Were you a spiritual person before you met him?

I am a spiritual person, but not a Buddhist. My spirituality is more of a one from column A, two from column B, kind of thing. He hates strobe lights, so photographing His Holiness was a challenge. I had to arrive prepared with an idea of how to tackle the issue of having no lighting in an unknown environment. I brought a white fabric backdrop and some silk to soften the daylight. I hung the silk and the backdrop from a balcony at his temple. Luckily it worked perfectly. But the biggest challenge was the timeframe, since I only had a few minutes with His Holiness, and the same with Arch, before they started inviting other people to join them in the photos. They are both so generous, that they knew everyone would want that.

I was brought onto The Book Of Joy project by an amazing woman named Peggy Callahan, who is now

a dear friend. During our initial meeting, she said something like, “After we finish in Dharamshala, a bunch of us are going to Varanasi to help slaves come to freedom – you’re welcome to join us, would you like to come?” I think my response was “hell yes!” There are some 50 million slaves in the world, including slaves in every major country worldwide. I still find this shocking. We focus on India because there are roughly 19 million slaves there –the greatest number in any one country. To get an idea of what we do, check out the V4F website. voices4freedom.org

In especially touching situations, how do you manage your emotions and focus on capturing the shot? When I’m shooting, I’m thinking about the shot and telling the story. I don’t let emotions disrupt the process. In my V4F work, I’ve met 14-year-old girls who have been repeatedly raped; people whose children have been kidnapped and trafficked; and people whose loved ones have been thrown into 1,200-degree brick kilns. I have a duty to them to tell their story with the greatest clarity and skill possible. It’s not about me. But I did have one moment in a rice field in India..

The women were all enslaved and miserable, but stoic. One of them was sick with hungry children at home, but too afraid to leave because the slave owner would literally kill her. These are strong people resigned to their fate. When our partner explained the process of coming to freedom to them in Hindi, they all burst into tears. That village is completely free now, they have their own commerce, clean water, and a school. Seeing all those labour-hardened women break down at a glimpse of hope, was the one time I cried.

Indian village. 2015

Freed slaves in India. 2015

visiting india every year to work with voices4freedom is an honour

Juana Burga at Sacsayhuaman, near Cuzco, Peru. 2017

Tell us about your images of the Dalai Lama and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, that grace the cover of The Book of Joy , which spent months on the New York Times top fifteen bestseller list.

These two Nobel laureates and best friends have had the most radically different lives possible. Since his escape in 1959, His Holiness has been protected by round-theclock guards and been free to study, practice, and lead Tibetan Buddhists and millions of followers worldwide. Arch is a very cosmopolitan man; a father; a warrior for human rights in South Africa, and a victim of torture. Yet despite having experienced terrible cruelty, his credo is forgiveness. The Dalai Lama’s philosophy is simply kindness. I think my images of them resonated with a lot of people, and who doesn’t want joy?!

What took you to Rwanda?

I visited Rwanda with my friend Brenda Rogers, who was, at the time, an art director at Coty. She asked me to accompany her and the team from Angel Rider – an NGO that creates and delivers rugged wheelchairs to people in need, in areas with rough terrain. The wheelchairs are manufactured in Rwanda too. During our trip, we went to a lot of remote locations, including refugee camps for the Congolese people – some of the most fierce, unbeaten people I’ve ever encountered. We also went to a settlement of Twa villagers – Angel Rider had provided them with a big water tank, they just wanted to check to make sure it was operational. I have a shot from that village that I love.

The most fun you’ve had during a shoot?

It’s impossible to choose just one! The Joy project, of course, Tilda Swinton is incredible to photograph. The Stripped packaging shoot for Christina Aguilera was a blast. And virtually every trip with the team from Coty/ OPI was amazing.

During your thirty-year career to date, you have captured the glamorous, the heroic, and everyone in between. What’s your preferred subject matter today? My favourite subject matter is whatever is in front of my camera. I love what I do.

Pick a moment in your career that you’re most proud of?

Going to India every year to work with Voices4Freedom is an honour and I’m proud and grateful to be a part of the team.

When you are off the clock, what do you most enjoy photographing?

Honestly, I really love shooting animals, which stemmed from a project shooting crows and ravens at the beginning of lockdown. I expanded it to animals this past year. It’s fantastic how easy it is to feed this project – no bullshit, no red tape. I’ll never stop shooting either of these, it’s too much fun. I always shoot with my Nikons – either my

D850 or the Z9. The lens is almost always a Sigma 60-600 – not the fastest or lightest but super versatile.

Your favourite hotels in the world?

The Four Seasons in Kyoto is elegant and not far from Gion and the Fushima Inari Shrine. A storied mansion dating back nearly five centuries, Palacio del Inka in Cusco is a dream, with an amazing restaurant and fantastic staff. On the outermost edge of the Olympic Peninsula in western Washington State, wonderfully rustic Kalaloch Lodge has cabins overlooking a flat beach that’s reflective like a mirror and home to hundreds of bald eagles. And the views of Mýrdalur valley, from family-run Hotel Dyrhólaey in south Iceland, are amazing. In fact, the whole of Iceland is insanely beautiful. https://www.dyrholaey.is

Miranda Penn Turin

puglia’s theatrical hospitality princess

OOZING STYLE AND GLAMOUR FROM EVERY ARTISTIC NOOK AND CRANNY, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS BIJOU ITALIAN CASTLE ELVIRA JUST OUTSIDE LECCE, WHICH HAS CHARMED EVERYONE STAYING WITHIN ITS CHARISMATIC WALLS, SINCE DEBUTING IN 2022

TURRETS & TOWERS CASTLE ELVIRA

Situated amidst the sun-drenched heel of Italy’s boot in the Salento peninsula of Puglia, Lecce and the surrounding area offers travellers a captivating blend of historical allure and natural beauty. Often referred to as the "Florence of South Italy” for its stunning Baroque architecture, Lecce enjoys a prime location surrounded by the azure waters of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, together with a delightful climate. During spring and summer, Lecce basks in long, golden days of warmth, with temperatures rising comfortably into the high twenties, making al fresco dining the norm for a good six months of the year.

CHARACTERISED BY ROLLING OLIVE GROVES , fragrant orchards, sprawling vineyards, and ancient dry-stone walls, the countryside encircling Lecce

exudes a timeless, calming, and pastoral quality. Brimming with unpretentious charm at every turn, the region’s flora is dominated by gnarled olive trees and vibrant Mediterranean herbs, while its fauna includes a variety of bird species that intermittently flit through the landscape.

Before the sun sets, the soft, golden light that bathes everything serves to enhance Puglia’s allure, creating a picturesque backdrop that has inspired artists and writers alike, and enamours everyone who visits the region today. Such bucolic charm, combined with a rich agricultural heritage and punctuated by fascinating tales and historic architecture, makes the province irresistibly enchanting. It is within this special setting that Castle Elvira is positioned, a triumph of historic preservation, stylish design-led luxury, and exceptional hospitality.

VIA ANDRANO, UPON WHICH THE 37-ACRE

Elvira estate is set, is referred to by locals as the ‘road of good health’, the surrounding air renowned as being the sweetest in Italy and possessing life giving properties. As we pull into the driveway and glide through the electric gates towards the imposing turreted edifice at the end, the air is filled with the scent of blooming citrus and the soft rustle of olive trees, and relaxation is pretty much immediate.

Rustic, charming, and serenely beautiful are my first impressions, until I cast my eyes upon the castle.

A picture-postcard architectural jewel, it is so perfectly and exquisitely presented, with palpable passion, that it could conceivably be a Hollywood illusion. But real it is, and the castle’s owners, Steven Riseley and Harvey B-Brown have lavished so much love and attention on their exquisite property, that there is probably nowhere quite like it in Europe, certainly not as attentively run and fastidiously maintained. For I soon discover that to call Castle Elvira a mere hotel would be an injustice, as my stay experience transcends the boundaries of normal hospitality.

HAVING CHANCED UPON THE PROPERTY IN A state of dereliction in 2018, and seen it through a fouryear floor-to-ceiling renovation and conversion, from the ground-up and beyond into its extensive gardens, Riseley and B-Brown obviously know every delightful nook and glamourous cranny of their castle and its chequered past.

TURRETS & TOWERS CASTLE ELVIRA

Legend has it that the castle was built in the late 1800s by a wealthy Neapolitan couple, as a 17th birthday gift for their only child, a girl named Elvira. Overwhelmed with gratitude for her parents, Elvira planned a surprise meal to thank them, and handpicked wild mushrooms from the castle’s grounds. Unfortunately, she mistook poisonous mushrooms for Porcini, and when her parents returned, they found their beloved daughter dead. Heartbroken, they fled the castle and never returned. Abandoned for the following century, the castle fell into decay and ruin, until Riseley and B-Brown purchased it and set about restoring it in Elvira’s memory.

STANDING-OUT

FOR ITS INTRIGUING

BLEND

of history, legend, and meticulous restoration, having been lovingly revived from a near-forgotten state, today the castle deftly embodies the joy of Elvira, together with the theatrics and extravagance of Riseley and B-Brown in equal measure, and unsurprisingly delights everyone who stays within its embracing confines. And what truly sets Castle Elvira apart, is the exceptional attention to detail. Evidently the project wasn’t merely about preserving history; it was about reimagining it with panache. The re-born

castle seamlessly marries 19th-century grandeur with contemporary luxury, offering guests not just a place to stay but an immersive experience where every corner tells a story.

THE CASTLE IS HOME TO FOUR INDIVIDUALLY designed suites, which vary in size and layout. Each is an opulent palazzo-styled private apartment-like space bedecked in art, sculpture and bespoke furnishings. Mine is the King Suite, complete with a spacious dressing room and bathroom with an oversized Carrara marble tub, and a walk-in shower concealed within what was formerly a castle staircase. A giant TV is hidden by a mirror, but I don’t turn it on for days, for I spend the entirety of my time relaxing, eating, drinking, or simply chilling-out, much to my amazement, since I’m not one to easily switch-off.

DOWNSTAIRS,

A VARIETY OF ROOMS INCLUDE lounge areas, a formal dining room, a show kitchen, and some back-of-house spaces. The public rooms are liberally furnished with a pleasingly diverse mix of old and new pieces, running the gamut of antiques to furniture by notable 20th and 21st-century designers, including Tom Dixon and B&B Italia, complete with a Bechstein grand piano. A decadent private subterranean cinema

Grayson

TURRETS & TOWERS CASTLE ELVIRA

is accessed by a lift which services all levels of the castle, including a rooftop bar boasting spectacular 360° views. Paintings, prints, artworks and sculptures are liberally distributed throughout the property, every piece of which is for sale.

Notable works include a giant acrylic hand by Jonathan Adler (a veritable master of modern American glamour); a number of exquisitely detailed drawings by visionary Spanish artist, Adolfo Arenas Alonso; some wonderful pieces by Manchester-born designer, Timothy Oulton; a hauntingly beautiful original Eve Arnold photo of Marilyn Monroe; a bust fashioned from ties by British-Israeli artist, Michal Cole, and a selection of Adored & Adorned pieces cocreated by B-Brown himself, whose work is infused with cinematic flair and bold storytelling. “Grayson”, a massive gorilla hanging atop the staircase, right outside my suite, is soon snapped and posted on my socials.

WITHIN A FEW MINUTES’ WALK OF THE castle, two swimming pools are set within its lush grounds, together with a restored tower and old farmhouse which together offer another four quirky suites, each referencing Elvira’s fairytale-like past.

THROUGHOUT MY STAY, THE SERVICE IS attentive and faultless, as every guest is treated like family by Riseley and B-Brown and their bevvy of

affable staff for whom nothing is too much trouble, including personal airport pick-ups and local rides to nearby towns.

Evenings begin with sundowners atop the castle, sipping aperitivo while taking-in the panoramic vistas across the luxuriant Puglian landscapes. And end laughing over wood-fired pizzas and palatable local wines in the unstuffy on-site restaurant and bar, which is a hive of activity throughout the summer months, populated by locals, tourists-in-the-know, and residents alike.

IN THE FEW YEARS SINCE CASTLE ELVIRA burst onto the Italian scene, quite literally oozing glamour from every pore, the Puglian estate has captivated everyone from seasoned vacationers and discerning globetrotters to fashionistas and Hollywood actors, and now The Cultured Traveller Standing as a testament to timeless elegance, in their first hospitality project, Riseley and B-Brown have successfully achieved what numerous hoteliers have never accomplished in their entire careers, and for this, they and their castle are to be celebrated. www.castleelvira.com

THE ICONIC 5* HOTEL

IN THE HEART OF CORTINA D’AMPEZZO THE QUEEN OF THE DOLOMITES

DESTINATION SPOTLIGHT

Jal Mahal, Jaipur

JAIPUR INDIA

art and aesthetics in the pink city of jaipur

HIDDEN WITHIN A WEB OF ANCIENT WALLS, JAIPUR HAS BEEN AN OPEN-AIR EXHIBITION SINCE IT WAS FOUNDED IN 1727. BUILT BY MASTER CRAFTSMEN AND SHAPED INTO A CAULDRON OF CREATIVITY, JOE MORTIMER DISCOVERS THAT THE CITY IS THE ARTISTIC HEART AND SOUL OF RAJASTHAN. PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARIN HUSAIN

an early start and a steep hike uphill from tranquil man sagar lake are rewarded with spellbinding views of amer fort, haloed by the golden glow of dawn

HIGH ABOVE JAIPUR, ON A tributary of the Great Wall of Amer, the sounds of sunrise drift through the early morning haze. Voices, car horns, and the din of a waking city join the chorus of birdsong around the hilltop watchtower where I’m stood. An early start and a steep hike uphill from tranquil Man Sagar Lake are rewarded with spellbinding views of Amer Fort, haloed by the golden glow of dawn.

Climbing higher still, we reach the imposing triple archway in the northern wall of Jaigarh Fort, which supplied cannon, arms and armour to its neighbour Amer via secret tunnels hewn into the slopes of the Aravalli Hills. Looking backwards, the mighty wall, built to protect the town of Amer and later, the fledgling city of Jaipur, snakes across a lush landscape.

ALTHOUGH HE LIVED DURING AN ERA WHEN forts and walls were a necessity, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who established the city of Jaipur in 1727, also found time to appreciate the finer things in life. A man of science and the arts, the city was built in a gridiron pattern according to the traditional architectural principles of the Hindu texts Shilpa Shastra and Vastu Shastra, with broad tree-lined avenues (chaupars), sprawling bazaars and public squares emanating outwards from the City Palace. Six-metre-high walls dotted with watchtowers surrounded the new city, and access was controlled by eight sandstone gateways, lovingly adorned with white floral motifs.

URBAN PLANNING SKILLS ASIDE, THE MAHARAJA wanted to create a city where art and culture thrived. He invited artists and craftsmen from all over the country to make Jaipur their home and provided space for them to work and trade. The carefully planned city was divided into 36 kharkanas or workshops dedicated to different artistic genres. In these creative districts, artists, potters, stonemasons and woodcarvers honed their crafts and dwelt amongst their peers. And architects, artisans and craftsmen from across the nation came together to mould India’s first planned city – a symphony of traditional Hindu and Mughal architecture, where public areas combined form and function, and new art schools positively nurtured young talent.

Within the UNESCO World Heritage city of today, their descendants continue to ply their wares in labyrinthine bazaars, where women haggle over jewellery and gemstones, and hand-stitched jutti slippers, colourful textiles and embroidered clothing spill from bustling doorways, and hauls of colourful hibiscus petals are piled high in sun-kissed open markets. From the beautiful symmetry of Hawa Mahal,

where ladies of the court peeked out from 953 intricately carved jharokha balconies, to the master craftsmanship of its temples and palaces, the city remains a living exhibition of Rajasthani arts, with perhaps no building more emblematic of Jaipur than Jal Mahal.

SURROUNDED BY THE TRANQUIL WATERS OF Man Sagar Lake, Jal Mahal, affectionately known as the “Water Palace”, is something of an architectural gem. Constructed in the 18th century by Maharaja Madho Singh I, the exquisite five-storey palace is a blend of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, and served as a serene retreat for the royal family, where they relished the cool breezes and escaped the summer heat amid ornate hallways and delicate chhatris crowned by temple-like spires. When the lake is full, four levels of Jal Mahal are submerged, presenting an ethereal illusion of a floating palace standing silent sentinel of Jaipur’s opulent past.

ANTICIPATING THE ARRIVAL OF HRH ALBERT

Edward Prince of Wales in 1876 (heir apparent to the British throne and the future Emperor of India), the young Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh II ordered that every building in the city should be freshly decorated to welcome the royal visitor. After a coat of paint made with pigment from the local sandstone, Jaipur took on a dusky rose blush and the ‘Pink City’ nickname was coined. Writing about his visit, Sir William Howard Russell, a celebrated journalist who was tasked with writing an account of the royal tour, compared the buildings to “solid strawberry creams streaked in white Arabesque”. Thus, the ritual of redecorating the buildings of the old city, with a fresh coat of this celebratory hue, is repeated every two years.

to

the east of jaipur, the cascading pools of galta-ji temple have drawn faithful hindus and holy men since time immemorial

FAIRMONT JAIPUR

CONVENIENTLY LOCATED 40 MINUTES’ DRIVE FROM THE airport and half-an-hour from the city centre, palatial Fairmont Jaipur epitomises the opulence and grandeur of Rajasthan’s royal heritage and offers a curated blend of traditional Rajputana architecture and contemporary luxury, which ensures that every stay is majestic and modern in equal measure.

Since most arriving guests are treated like royalty, don’t be surprised if the soundtrack to your arrival is the rhythmic beating of huge Rajasthani nagada drums, a blizzard of fragrant rose petals swirls around you, and an elaborately-dressed local musician, plucking away at a traditional folk instrument of the stringed variety, accompanies you through the hotel’s geometric courtyard inspired by Agra’s Char Bagh into the imposing main lobby. Meanwhile, grand Mughal arches, delicate ornamental jaali work and swathes of lavish velvets echo the elegance and theatrics of bygone eras.

Dining at Fairmont Jaipur is a gastronomic journey through the diverse flavours of Rajasthan and beyond. The hotel’s signature restaurant, Zoya, offers an eclectic menu, blending local dishes with international cuisine, all crafted with the finest ingredients. Anjum tea lounge invites guests to indulge in quintessentially British afternoon tea, accompanied by an array of artisanal teas and delectable pastries. And Zarin restaurant serves excellent Pan-Asian fare.

In the hotel’s sumptuous spa, traditional therapies meet contemporary wellness practices, ensuring that treatments impart complete rejuvenation. The spacious gym is incredibly well-equipped. And grand banquet halls and verdant lawns provide an idyllic setting for weddings and special events crafted by a dedicated team of planners.

Upstairs, each of the opulently decorated 245 guest rooms and suites is meticulously designed, adorned with rich fabrics, furnished in timeless pieces, and offers panoramic vistas of the surrounding landscape. Complete with warm, personalised and genuine hospitality, makes Fairmont Jaipur the perfect base from which to explore the inimitable Pink City. www.fairmont.com/jaipur

City Palace

JAIPUR’S ARTISTIC HERITAGE IS CAREFULLY preserved in the Albert Hall Museum, which was established in the same year as the Prince of Wales’ visit and named in his honour. Designed by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob, chief engineer of Jaipur during its time as a Princely State of the British Raj, the building was originally intended as a new town hall until the new Maharaja, Sawai Madho Singh II, decided it would better utilised as a repository for arts and antiquities, and serve as a new national museum for Jaipur state. A vault for its cultural heritage, if you will.

Today, its collection of artworks, sculptures, wood engravings, musical instruments, block prints and weaponry chronicle the history of craftwork in the region. Meanwhile the building is itself a wondrous medley of Rajput and Mughal architecture, with domed chhatri roofs, hundreds of marble archways, and colonnaded courtyards painted in cool mint green.

AT THE DAWN OF THE 1900S, IN PREPARATION for his journey to London for the coronation of King Edward VII, Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II demanded that his entourage provide a ready supply of holy water from the Ganges. Having established that purified silver was the most appropriate material in which to transport the blessed water, the silversmiths

of the Mistri Khana, one of the 36 kharkanas, set to work forging two giant vessels fashioned out of 28,000 silver coins from the royal purse, each large enough to carry 2,000 litres of water.

It came to pass that the two largest silver vessels in the world began their journey from Jaipur to London, brimming with the Maharaja’s prized elixir. Today, the Gangajalis take pride of place in the Diwan-e-Khas, or the Hall of Private Audience, which is a covered auditorium within Jaipur’s City Palace. With its elaborate chambers bejewelled in colourful cut glass and mirrors, its interior gateways beautifully decorated in naturalistic scenes, and row upon row of finely carved stone and marble pillars, every corner of this most magnificent royal abode is testament to the creative process of Jaipur craftsmen.

Patrika Gate, Jaipur

Bihari Ji Ka Mandir Temple

City Palace

nahargarh fort is a formidable presence atop the steep hills above, its steadfast ramparts commanding uninterrupted views over the entire city

IF LIFE WITHIN THE WALLED CITY WAS ONE OF artistic nourishment, the landscape beyond took on a more martial and spiritual tone. To the east of Jaipur, the cascading pools of Galta-Ji Temple have drawn faithful Hindus and holy men since time immemorial, and it remains an important pilgrimage site. Today, the complex has been colonised by an army of primates, and pilgrims share the cascading holy pools with fearless macaques and beady-eyed langurs.

LOOKING WEST TOWARDS THE SETTING SUN, across the arrow-straight streets of downtown Jaipur, Nahargarh Fort is a formidable presence atop the steep hills above, its steadfast ramparts commanding uninterrupted views over the entire city. The road from Nahargarh leads north along a ridge to Jaigarh Fort, once a vital supply route, now a popular sunrise spot. Descending carefully down the steep steps of the wall towards the sanctity of Sagar Lake, the heat of the day begins to take hold; birdsong echoes through the lush foliage; monkeys run amock in the dusty car park, and cows slowly amble along the road towards Amer town.

WHILE LIFE MAY ROLL FORWARD AT A somewhat slower pace since the exodus of residents in

central Jaipur, restoration projects around the city are breathing new life into ancient structures.

Where townsfolk once exchanged stories and gossip, the waters of Panna Meena ka Kund stepwell glow iridescent green below symmetrical staircases. And the decorative 17th century walls of Bihari Ji Ka Mandir temple, preceded by its magnificent elephant-flanked archway, are resplendent once more after a careful restoration.

A short stroll away, Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing celebrates the history of Jaipur’s oldest art form in a beautifully restored three-storey haveli (mansion) built into the Great Wall of Amer, bringing together two defining characteristics of this formidable Rajasthani jewel.

GAZING BACK THROUGH THE MIDDAY HAZE at the Pink City below, it’s impossible to resist her timeless charms. From the romance of her ancient palaces and chaotic markets to the majestic forts and serene temples that pepper her hillsides, Jaipur is a testament to the spirit of artistic innovation that permeates the landscape of Rajasthan. Graceful and magnificent, this three-hundred-year-old city is a living museum where tradition and modernity coexist in harmony, and stories are etched in every stone.

Hawa Mahal

british fashion's unstoppable dame

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU SITS DOWN WITH THE ICONIC FASHION PIONEER, DESIGNER, AND NATIONAL TREASURE, TO CHAT ABOUT THE NEW MEMOIR WHICH TELLS THE FASCINATING STORY OF HER COLOURFUL LIFE THUS FAR

HAVING DRESSED EVERYONE from Princess Anne and Lady Diana to Hollywood actress Lauren Bacall and rock royal Freddie Mercury, Zandra Rhodes has been a leading figure in British design for some six decades, and as is recognisable across the planet for her bright pink bob as she is for her colourful clothes, metallic gowns, and screen-printed fabrics. And despite being an octogenarian, the self-confessed workaholic shows little sign of slowing down, and is as prolifically busy as ever.

PERFECTLY MADE-UP AND SPORTING A striking jacket with heavily fringed cuffs, paired with pleated metallic pink pants, on our way to lunch on a sunny Summer’s day, Rhodes politely tells a London cabby to drop us at the corner, because she’d rather walk the last 500 metres than make the taxi go round the block. Practical, gracious, and always moving forwards, this is the essence of the lady, and just a few of the reasons we’ve struck-up a friendship in recent years. Fascinating to talk to, an utter delight to spend time with, and a truly unstoppable fashion force of nature, I am often in awe of Rhodes’ energy and creativity (not to mention her tales), and know no-one who isn’t similarly enthralled when in the inimitable company of this national treasure.

WHILST RHODES FIRST FOUND FAME IN the 1960s, when we meet, she has literally just opened-up about her past in a new memoir, and has been signing books, doing interviews, chairing

discussions, hosting livestreams, and appearing on telly non-stop for days, travelling up-and-down the country in the process. Yet she is still excited to see me and chats enthusiastically about Iconic: My Life in Fashion in 50 Objects written by Ella Alexander, who deftly managed to condense 83 extraordinary years into 337 pages.

Charting Rhodes’ creatively rich and fascinating life, Iconic tells the story, via fifty key items, of a young working-class woman who worked incredibly hard to become one of fashion’s most influential visionaries. Illustrated by Rhodes herself, objects in the book serve as jumping-off points to chapters which discuss key moments, career milestones, and significant people who have shaped her life thus far.

ZANDRA LINDSEY RHODES WAS BORN IN 1940 in Chatham, Kent. She studied printed textile design at the Royal College of Art, where her bold and unconventional approach set her apart. In 1969, Rhodes launched her own label, quickly gaining recognition for her dramatic use of colour, patterns, and innovative textiles. Her work challenged the norms of fashion design, with iconic pieces like her signature "punk" collections in the 1970s, which were as much about art as they were about clothing.

Rhodes' designs have dressed numerous influential figures, cementing her reputation as a designer who bridges the gap between fashion and

Baby Zandra with her mother, Beatrice

Princess Diana wearing Zandra Rhodes, 1986

pop culture. Beyond the catwalk, she has contributed significantly to the arts, founding the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey in 2003, which continues to celebrate and educate on the importance of textile and fashion design. Rhodes has also designed textiles for interiors, featuring her prints on furniture and homewares.

Despite shifting trends, Rhodes has remained true to her unique vision, with her vibrant hair and flamboyant style making her as iconic as her creations. Indeed, her impact on the British fashion industry is profound, positioning her as a true pioneer, who continues to influence both emerging designers and the wider cultural landscape. https://zandrarhodes.com

Zandra's sketch of a dress for Princess Diana

Your colourful career has already spanned six decades. Yet this is your first memoir. What took you so long?! I’ve always been so busy that I never had time to think about it. Until, Ella Alexander, who I’d known from when she first was at Vogue, probably just after university, asked had I thought of a memoir, and suggested we started working on a book together.

When was that?

Probably about three years ago. We started to sit down regularly and winkle things out, which was quite amazing, because they were all moments in my life that I don’t really talk much about day-today. Then I introduced Ella to my friends, and the adventure gradually began from there, and grew.

Was the process cathartic, did you enjoy it, and were there any tricky moments?

There were some moments that I found very difficult, and it all probably was cathartic. I had never really spoken about my father until then, who was a rough diamond and was exactly like Alf Garnett, from British sitcom Till Death Us Do Part.

Yet your mother was so glamorous?

I know, well they met ballroom dancing in Chatham. She made her own Come Dancing dresses and they were Kent champions at one point.

Do you think that she was attracted to the rough side of your father?

No, not at all. I think that when he was dressed-up in evening dress, he looked quite fantastic, like Errol Flynn. And I think what it really was, was when they were in their relationship, my father told her a secret about his mother, who I believed to have been a prostitute, because maybe my father had said that. She was my grandmother on my father’s side, and she had boarders. Anyway, while her husband was away, she had affairs with the various boarders. In those days, in the early 1900s, this was very naughty. One of the men found out that she was having an affair with someone else, and he cut her head off. Apparently there was a huge scandal and it was in all the newspapers.

My sketch of the bust Andrew Logan made for my birthday

My mother in the 1950s

How did you find out all of this?

Well, the truth only came about when my sister’s granddaughter uncovered it.

What do you think your mother thought?

Although she and my father looked very glamorous together, especially when they were ballroom dancing, I think my mother, when he told her his secret, probably felt obliged to marry him, to keep the secret.

Did you not know about this until you started working on Iconic ?

I didn’t know any of it until my sister’s granddaughter researched our ancestry.

What would you say is the greatest thing you learnt early in your career?

I think not to give up, because I was a textile designer, and couldn’t sell my textiles. Yet I believed I knew how they should look in clothes. Then I met some mad Ukrainian-American models who told me to come to America, where they said I’d find a backer and make my fortune. Putting together a collection gave me a new confidence.

Did you then go to America?

Yes, in 1969, a month after Woodstock. The Americans didn’t know I was a textile designer, and saw me as a fashion designer, which was a little like being re-born.

Who did you first meet across the pond?

The magical Diana Vreeland, with her dyed black hair, who said about my clothes, “these are amazing” and “we are going to photograph them on Natalie Wood”. Then she picked-up the phone and called a top New York boutique and asked them to carry my clothes. That was the start of my whole career.

Was this a time when New York was at its most mad?

This was at the height of the Swinging Sixties, when Twiggy was a star in America, and the Americans were very pro English and loved The Beatles, all of which worked in my favour.

Karl Lagerfeld's fan

Freddie Mercury in my cape design

And New York’s nightlife?

It was wonderful. I had a great friend, Richard Holly, who was the same age as me and a Texan designer. He had an apartment on West 81st Street and I met all of his very exotic friends.

What were you wearing back then?

I was dressed in my best chiffons and my white Biba boots, my hair was tied with flowing scarves, and red lipstick curls were drawn on my face.

Was there interest in your clothes?

Yes. I didn’t find someone to back me. But I took orders in New York. Came back to London. Produced the orders. Sold them. And the business built up from there.

Where was your London base?

My studio was in Bayswater, by Royal Oak tube station, set within a house with a shop on street level which belonged to a car salesman. On the first floor, up some rickety stairs, we knocked two rooms into one to accommodate a print table to print fabric. On the next floor was my design room and office. On the top floor was a big cutting table. Over the years, I ended-up owning the whole building and was there until 1995.

My design worn by Princess Anne for her engagement portrait

My CBE medal

Your most famous clients?

Freddie Mercury and Lauren Bacall, amongst others. Unfortunately, Lauren stepped on a pin while I was fitting her for a dress. While she was howling, I had to get on my hands and knees to remove the pin from her sacred foot.

And Freddie Mercury?

Well, I told him that he’d have to come in the evening, because otherwise I had machinists and everyone in the building, and I didn’t have a special changing room. I don’t even think I had a screen in the corner. I gave him a pleated bridal top to try-on and see how he felt in it. And the rest, as they say, is history.

How have you managed to keep your feet on the ground ? I keep my feet on the ground because reality isn’t always what it seems.

Please name a career high?

One of my most notable career high was in 1973, when I got a phone call from English Vogue asking me to send in some very dressy ballgowns, because the magazine was going to photograph a very famous woman. I thought it was Elizabeth Taylor. Anyway, I sent in this fabulous embroidered fairytale white gown. It was only a month later, I was told that my dress had been chosen to announce Princess Anne’s engagement to Captain Mark Phillip, which was photographed by Norman Parkinson. It was a lovely picture. I didn’t get the wedding dress, by the way. Historically, you don’t always fare well if you do the wedding dress!

And a career low point?

Towards the end of the 1980s, my shop had closed on Bond Street, I was selling clothes wholesale from my warehouse in Shepherd’s Bush, and I was travelling around America doing shows, when I had to let go 20-30 staff, which was awful.

Was there a turning point?

In 1993, John Galliano produced a collection with lots of flowing chiffons, and everyone said, “Oh, that’s very Zandra Rhodes”. Suddenly people started to notice what I was doing. But I’ve always thought that life’s ducking and diving anyway. At a time when they didn’t want me to make appearances in American anymore, I was offered to do opera, so there’s always been something to keep me busy.

Valentino x Zandra Rhodes Loveblade design

Me in my Piers Atkinson hat at the Platinum Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

FASHION ICON

Sounds like you have gotten strength from your lows as well as your highs?

Yes, and my friends. I am lucky enough to have friends who are not fair weather, who have seen me when I’m down, and have seen me when I’m up.

Is there a chapter in Iconic which you particularly like?

I quite like the Gongfu teacup chapter, set in Kensington Palace, when I was doing a fitting for Princess Margaret. The Princess asked me, “would you like a cup of tea?”. To which I replied, “that would be very nice, yes, thank you.” A maid then came into the room with the biggest tea tray I had ever seen, and she had to walk sideways with it. On the tray was a teapot, one empty cup, and one full cup. Now, why would you travel in with a full cup of tea? Obviously, there must have been something in it! Also on the tray, was a plate with three of the tiniest biscuits I’d ever seen. I kept thinking, surely she’s going to offer me a biscuit. But she didn’t. So the biscuits were still there when I left the Palace.

Where do you find your incredible energy?

My mother was always working, and my father was either pootling about on his bike, or out cycling, so I come from a family of doers. We always have to be doing something. My sister never sits still. If I have time, there is always a job to be done. And I don’t notice my age if I’m busy!

If you could re-live any era, which would it be?

The late 60s and early 70s, because that period was a formative time in my career; it was an electric time for me, and it was a great time for the UK.

Surely you have enough stories for another book?! Well, I would like to do a book about the work I did in the Swinging Sixties and early 70s, and we are currently trying to sort that out. I think I have the energy for another book, so watch this space!

Any tips for fledgling fashion designers? Don’t give up and try to follow the adventure wherever it takes you, even if it means moving overseas to another country.

IMAGE: RICHARD DOWKER

SET WITHIN THE FAMED DUTCH MUSEUM OF THE SAME NAME, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER REVIEWS ONE MICHELIN-STARRED RIJKS IN AMSTERDAM; VISITS THE NEW LONDON RESTAURANT OF HERITAGE ITALIAN BRAND, PAPER MOON , AND EXPLORES SHANGHAI ’S SIZZLING FOOD SCENE RIJKS

➤ AMSTERDAM THE NETHERLANDS

PAPER MOON

LONDON

➤ UNITED KINGDOM

SHANGHAI’S FOOD SCENE ➤ CHINA

REVIEW

LOCATED WITHIN AMSTERDAM’S ICONIC RIJKSMUSEUM, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU DINES AT A RESTAURANT WHERE EVERY DISH CELEBRATES LOCAL SEASONAL INGREDIENTS, AND IS A TESTAMENT TO THE CHEFS’ COMMITMENT TO QUALITY AND CREATIVITY

Chef Joris Bijdendijk

RIJKS

➤ AMSTERDAM THE NETHERLANDS

BEGINNING WITH CAS SPIJKERS in the 1980s, who was considered by many to be the founding father of fine dining in the Netherlands, the Dutch culinary scene has evolved dramatically over the years, and the past few decades have seen the city’s restaurants move away from their hearty and traditional roots to more vibrant and inventive gastronomy, which at the same time has created a dynamic culinary destination in Amsterdam, that now attracts foodies from around the globe.

HISTORICALLY, SIMPLISTIC

Dutch cuisine was considered somewhat boring by its continental neighbours, with dishes like mashed potatoes-based stamppot and thick split pea soup erwtensoep reflecting the country’s agricultural heritage for too long. However, as Amsterdam gradually became a melting pot of cultures, its food scene slowly began to diversify and expand. The city embraced influences from its colonial past, incorporating flavours from overseas, while also welcoming a wave of international chefs who brought with them new techniques and ideas. And a subsequent fusion of food traditions prompted a culinary revolution in Amsterdam, with chefs reinterpreting traditional Dutch ingredients in increasingly inventive ways. ONE OF THE MOST NOTABLE trends in Amsterdam’s restaurants

has been a strong focus on locally sourced ingredients and a firm commitment to sustainability. Many restaurants pride themselves on offering farm-to-table menus that celebrate the rich bounty of the Dutch countryside. Seasonal vegetables, North Sea fish, and artisanal cheeses also play a starring role, with chefs now routinely creating dishes that are as sustainable as they are delicious. Today, while food classics like deep-fried bitterballen and stroopwafels remain beloved staples on the Dutch capital’s streets, and there will always be people queuing

ATMOSPHERE FOOD

IMAGE: CHANTAL ARNTS

Mille-feuille of beetroot

for Flemish fries at Vleminckx, the kitchens of Amsterdam’s restaurants are buzzing with innovation and creativity, and Amsterdam’s multicultural spirit is vividly reflected in its diverse dining landscape, at the forefront of which is RIJKS, helmed by chef Joris Bijdendijk.

A PROMINENT FIGURE IN THE Netherlands’ modern culinary scene, Bijdendijk is renowned for his innovative approach, dedication to eco-friendly practices, and pushing the boundaries of Dutch cuisine. His culinary journey began at Ron Blaauw Restaurant in Amsterdam, followed by the Pourcel brothers’ much lauded south of France restaurant, Le Jardin des Sens, in the kitchens of which classical techniques prevail. Bijdendijk’s cooking style is probably best described as rooted in French tradition whilst reimagined with a distinctly Dutch sensibility. He is passionate about showcasing local, seasonal ingredients, often foraging for wild herbs and plants to incorporate into his dishes, and his food is celebrated for its clarity of flavour and minimalist presentation, where every ingredient is allowed to shine.

Currently the driving force of two Michelin-starred restaurants,

a newspaper columnist, author of several books, an SVH Master (the Netherlands’ highest culinary accolade), and co-founder of the Low Food movement, Bijdendijk has been executive chef of RIJKS since it opened in 2014, located within the Philips wing of Rijksmuseum, one of Amsterdam’s most iconic landmarks, with its vast collection of works by Dutch masters.

WITH ITS SOARING ARCHES AND intricate brickwork, Rijksmuseum’s grand neo-Gothic architecture sets a unique and impressive stage for the culinary experience that awaits at RIJKS, and this has obviously not been lost on Bijdendijk and interior designer, Paul Linse. Indeed, the recent major remodeling of RIJKS by Linse has transformed the restaurant into a series of spaces that are both elegant and inviting; emphasise transparency and warmth, and provide the perfect place for interaction, both between diners and

between diners, chefs and sommeliers. Moreover, Linse has skillfully embraced the building’s historic features and combined them with contemporary elements that reflect the restaurant’s forward-thinking ethos. The interior is characterised by warm, earthy tones, sleek lines, and the extensive use of wood and natural stone, creating a sophisticated yet welcoming environment. Soft lighting highlights the room’s understated luxury, large windows allow glimpses of Museumplein, and upon entering the restaurant, one is immediately struck by the seamless blend of history and modernity, not to mention the chit-chat and palpable anticipation of more than 100 people, gathered in the largest Michelin-star-awarded restaurant in the Netherlands, to enjoy a gourmet meal on a Saturday evening. And judging by the restaurant’s popularity, for 10 years now, Bijdendijk and RIJKS’s head chefs, Yascha Oosterberg and Friso van Amerongen, have consistently delivered.

Yellowtail kingfish, mandarin, leek, celeriac

OPEN AND ACCESSIBLE, WE walk through a few dining spaces to reach our spot at a high-top adjacent to a large and very open kitchen that is seemingly part of the restaurant. Literally everything is on display and the kitchen is a hive of activity, the buzz and electricity it generates permeating the closest diners, including where we are perched, at the perfect vantage point to observe the culinary comings and goings, almost feel the heat, and enjoy a flavourful and relaxed night. We almost feel part of the kitchen, which is exciting in itself, as the meal begins.

RIJKS IS ALL ABOUT SERVING top-quality modern Dutch fare while showcasing the finest and freshest seasonal ingredients from the Low Countries, with sustainable dishes taking center stage. Bijdendijk and his team works closely with local farmers and producers to bring out the best in every product, with attention to both taste and environment paramount. They also strive, year on year, to reduce the restaurant’s ecological footprint. These qualities are reflected in changing tasting menus and à la carte dishes that represent the best seasonal produce.

SOME DELECTABLE HANDcrafted pre-dinner cocktails are served with a variety of moreish amuse, the most delicious of which is Dutch shrimp with Jerusalem artichoke, horseradish, and a delicate apple-hollandaise. Then we move to a table where whipped yeast butter, topped with crispy chili oil, is served with warm crusty bread and potato sticks with sesame. The whipped butter is irresistible.

A STARTER OF HIGH-QUALITY sashimi-grade yellowtail kingfish, served with mandarin, leek, and celeriac, is a fruity and citrusy dish of fresh well-balanced flavours that awakens and deftly sets-up the palate for the further courses to come. And it's obvious from this very first plate,

Rooster crest, kaffir lime, potato, sea buckthorn berry

that simplicity, authenticity, and quality are key to RIJKS’s cuisine, not to mention the complete unification of flavours. As subsequent courses arrive, whilst each appears to be pretty simple on the plate, some only consisting of a few ingredients, it is the flavours which are the star of the show, rather than overly artful presentation.

THE RESTAURANT'S SIGNATURE mille-feuille of beetroot dish, tastes of the earth, impresses with its clever marriage of salty and sweet flavours, and is finished with a rich, extra buttery Tomasu beurre blanc and fresh parsley oil. Yet the dish doesn’t wow when placed on the table. It is the flavours that do the talking and create incredible symphonies in the mouth. And the meal proceeds in the same appetising fashion all evening, every dish delighting with its unique tastes

and bold flavours.

Towards the end, a Hanenkam dish is so simply presented that it can’t possibly taste good. But once in the mouth, the combination of the crispy rooster’s crest and orangey beurre blanc are like nothing I have ever tasted before.

RELAXED FINE DINING

executed with style, flair and fun, the RIJKS experience is a masterful blend of Dutch culinary tradition and contemporary innovation. A celebration of local and seasonal ingredients, every dish is a testament to Joris Bijdendijk’s commitment to quality and creativity, providing diners with a gastronomically unforgettable journey through the flavours of the Netherlands in a setting that marries history with modern elegance.

RIJKS

CO-OWNER & CHEF PATRON: Joris Bijdendijk

ADDRESS: 2 Museumstraat, 1071 XX Amsterdam, The Netherlands TELEPHONE: +31 20 674 75 55

EMAIL: reserveren@rijksrestaurant.nl

WEBSITE: rijksrestaurant.nl

CUISINE: Modern Dutch

LUNCH OPENING HOURS:

Tuesday - Sunday 11:30 - 14:00

DINNER OPENNG HOURS:

Tuesday - Sunday 18:00 onwards

LUNCH PRICE: 4-course menu EUR 65 (without wine)

DINNER PRICE: 6-course menu EUR 120 + wine pairing EUR 80

IDEAL MEAL: 6-course dinner menu EUR 120 + premium wine pairing EUR 120

RESERVATIONS: Advisable.

Walk-ins welcome

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: Highchairs available. Children’s meals EUR 25

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PARKING: No private parking

TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

Scallop, codium, Willem’s Wermoed vinaigrette, radish

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS OUT THE SMART NEW LONDON OUTPOST OF A FAMILYFOUNDED ITALIAN RESTAURANT BRAND, THAT WAS BORN IN MILAN IN THE NINETEEN SEVENTIES

NEWCOMER

PAPER MOON LONDON LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

FOUNDED IN 1977 BY

Pio Galligani and his wife, Enrica Del Rosso, what began as a small, family-run establishment in Milan’s fashion district

quickly garnered a reputation for its warm hospitality and high quality authentic Italian cuisine, soon attracting a loyal clientele that included the Milanese, Italian glitterati, and international celebrities.

REMAINING UNWAVERINGLY popular through the decades, its

reputation gradually growing outside of Milan led to the opening of new outposts in some of the world’s most cosmopolitan cities, including New York, Hong Kong, and Istanbul, with each Paper Moon location reflecting the brand’s signature design aesthetic: a harmonious blend of contemporary design and timeless elegance,

characterised by clean lines and muted colour palettes, complete with a sophisticated yet relaxed ambience that positively invites diners to linger over their meals.

AT THE HEART OF PAPER MOON’S appeal is its dedication to classic Italian cuisine. Its menus showcase traditional dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients, from homemade pastas and wood-fired pizzas, to freshly prepared seafood dishes and carefully crafted meat courses. Throughout, an emphasis on quality and authenticity has remained a cornerstone of the brand’s identity, ensuring that every meal is something of a celebration of Italy’s culinary heritage.

BRINGING THE AUTHENTIC AND timeless flavours of Italy to one of the British capital’s most storied addresses, Paper Moon London opened last year, set within Britain’s former Old War Office on Whitehall, which is now known as The OWO and is home to an opulent new Raffles hotel.

Burrata

Capesante

In its former incarnation, the historically important Grade II-listed EdwardianBaroque behemoth was inhabited by a number of leading statesmen, including Sir Winston Churchill, and served as inspiration for Ian Fleming’s James Bond series.

One of nine restaurants which have opened within The OWO, Paper Moon is accessed directly from the street, so the hotel can be completely avoided on arrival, and the serious business of eating can begin without delay.

WE ENTER THE RESTAURANT

across a beautiful original white mosaic floor which paves a tasteful and intimate foyer, somewhat reminiscent of the elegant hallway of a wealthy family’s home, the walls of which are lined with framed movie scenes. Even though there is no-one to greet us, it’s a warm and relaxed arrival, which sets the tone for the lunch ahead, as we naturally gravitate towards a mature olive tree directly ahead.

EVOKING THE AMBIENCE OF A contemporary Italian mansion fashioned with style and taste, the restaurant is visually divided into a foyer, bar and library, and main dining room. All seamlessly unite the building’s original architecture with a refined and tasteful

interior design which beckons guests to sit, relax, and enjoy. A warm, tonal colour palette of grey, beige and sage green is punctuated by golden textures, theatrical curved mirrors, antique brass sconces, cascading curtains, and monochrome photos of pop culture icons. Stools at the bar are upholstered in deep orange leather, and are perfectly positioned to observe the comings and goings on a busy night.

IN THE DINING AREA, LARGE

original windows offer guests views onto Horse Guards Parade, tables are laid in crisp white linen, and seating is silver-grey and comfy, with cushions for everyone. Staff are suited and booted, attentive, polite, and err on the side of restraint (although they loosen-up later). We sit at a round table adjacent to a centerpiece olive tree set within a circular marble counter, and the meal begins.

EXECUTIVE CHEF LEONARDO

Pieri Buti’s journey to London began in Rome, where he juggled the demands of culinary school while working as a commis in his cousin's restaurant. This early experience ignited a lifelong passion for cooking, which is evident in the four delicious starters we kick-off with, of which the Selezione di Tartare and seared scallop dishes are standout.

Linguini

We cannot get enough of the tuna and mango tartare, which is literally a marriage of fish and fruit made in culinary heaven. Served with a green pea cream and lemon confit, the scallops are perfectly seared and so we re-order one each. And a plate of Vitello Tonnato is one of the best I’ve ever tasted, coated with just the right amount of creamy tuna sauce, and garnished with Pantelleria capers.

AS THE AFTERNOON PROGRESSES, we sample a variety of Italian dishes with a modern twist, all of which are executed with skill, beautifully presented, and taste sensational. Of the pastas, the restaurant’s signature pappardelle with tomato, cream and bacon is simply divine, not to mention

moreish. We break-up the mains with a Margherita, which is probably as good as pizza gets in London. And a large plate of lamb, served with a summery southern Italian homemade peperonata, and a thyme-infused sauce, is grilled to perfection.

THE MEAL IS CROWNED BY A delectable Tiramisu, and a glorious sticky toffee-topped tarte tatin, the latter served with buttery vanilla icecream. OK, apple flan is a French dish, but it's the only non-Italian item we eat and drink all afternoon, which includes a lively and citrusy Fontodi Meriggio Sauvignon Blanc (with 10% Trebbiano), which is spot-on for the earlier courses. And an inspired wine choice to accompany the larger plates,

in the form of a delightful rosé wine, blended from three grape varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), hailing from prestigious Tenuta Guado al Tasso winery in the heart of Tuscany.

IT’S RARE FOR A HIGH-END Italian restaurant to deliver on every level but Paper Moon London does just that. The eating environment is welldressed, well-designed and smart yet laid-back. The staff are undoubtedly gifted. The atmosphere is convivial. And, most importantly, the setting is conducive to long, spirited meals, where the exceptionally good food takes centre stage and stirs the souls of everyone eating.

www.papermoonlondon.com

Tiramisù

BRIAN BERGEY EXPLORES SHANGHAI’S VARIED AND VIBRANT FOOD SCENE, WHERE CENTURIES-OLD CULINARY TRADITIONS MEET CUTTING-EDGE INNOVATION. FROM STREET FOOD STALLS TO MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS, CHINA’S LARGEST CITY OFFERS A DAZZLING ARRAY OF FLAVOURS THAT CAPTIVATE, SATISFY, AND DELIGHT

SHANGHAI’S FOOD SCENE

SIZZLING

CHINA'S LARGEST AND most cosmopolitan city sits majestically on the country’s eastern coast, where the Huangpu River meets the East China Sea. A sprawling mega metropolis of some 30 million people, seemingly stretching endlessly towards the horizon, Shanghai is a bustling hub of commerce, culture, and innovation.

Established as a small fishing village just over a millennium ago, since the 80s, when its population was around 5 million, the city has grown particularly quickly, evolving into a global powerhouse that blends a rich history with cutting-edge modernity. And the city’s diverse demographic, shaped by waves of migration and numerous international influences, contributes to its dynamic character, making it a melting pot of traditions and cuisines and somewhat unique in Asia. For all intents and purposes, Shanghai is a city of many identities.

PUDONG, THE CITY’S FINANCIAL district, is home to China’s tallest skyscrapers, the top three of which are national symbols of the Republic’s modernity and economic prowess. Yet Shanghai’s famous skyline (best seen from The Bund) didn't even exist 30 years ago. Today, this district is home to countless luxury hotels, rooftop bars reaching into the clouds, glitzy shopping malls

selling every designer brand, and streets full of Western restaurant chains. However, just a short subway ride across the river, the scenery is noticeably more traditional.

CITY BLOCKS FULL OF INTERCONNECTED longtangs (lanes) are a classic architectural feature of residential Shanghai. Hidden behind rows of shops lining the main streets, these lanes form Shanghai’s local neighbourhoods, each block filled with dense mazes of alleyways that lead to rows of twoand three-storey houses which are home to hundreds of residents. These longtangs are also the cornerstone of Shanghai’s cultural identity and are renowned for their bustling street food culture, along with local markets where residents shop daily for fresh produce, meats, and seafood. And in between is the city’s French Concession.

Established in 1849 as a designated area for French nationals to live and conduct business away from Chinese jurisdiction, this district is brimming with European charm. With its tree-lined streets and colonial-era buildings, it now serves as the city’s epicenter for trendy cafes, art galleries, and lively nightlife. Grab brunch with some homemade kombucha at expat-owned eateries in the morning, and try locating the city’s top cocktail bars and speakeasies by night. No matter what you find, the French Concession

offers a unique glimpse into Shanghai’s seamlessly blended cultures.

SUCH DIVERSITY

AND international influence have created a unique culinary scene in Shanghai. Often regarded as one of the best destinations for globetrotting foodies, where else can one tuck into a street food breakfast for under a Pound; pitstop for an authentic Chinese lunch for a fiver per head; sip happy hour cocktails atop a skyscraper, and dine on fine Michelin-starred fare, all on the same day? This has though, over the years, caused some confusion as to what authentic Shanghai food really is.

WHEN ASKED ABOUT SHANGHAI’S best-known foods, most people will likely struggle to come up with anything other

than xio lóng bāo (soup dumplings). Shanghai can’t claim ownership to most of China’s culinary highlights, such as Peking Duck from Beijing, Cantonese Dim Sum, or the numbingly spicy Hotpot and Mapo Tofu from Sichuan. This is due to the fact that Shanghai’s traditional cuisine is characterised by preparing fresh ingredients with light and sweet flavours, which are delicious, but less memorable than the aforementioned.

Also, the migration of other Chinese nationals into Shanghai means that it’s just as easy to find an Italian pizza joint or a Turkish kabab shop, as it is to find a Sichuan hotpot restaurant or a Xinjiang-owned BBQ joint. This, in turn, means that finding truly local eateries in Shanghai is more difficult than in Beijing, for instance. Aunties

who transformed their traditional longtang homes into bijou restaurants, with a few tables in their front rooms, are being traded for flashy main street storefronts with lit-up menus and out-ofsight kitchens to emphasise cleanliness. While the food may be the same, the prices increase, and the overall experience lacks authenticity.

LOST PLATE FOOD TOURS

specialises in taking visitors to endangered, local eateries throughout China. Yet one of the company’s challenges is navigating the everevolving culinary landscape in major cities like Shanghai, and finding traditional restaurants that locals have been experiencing for generations. The good news is that although these restaurants are becoming more scarce,

ALL IMAGES: LOST PLATE FOOD TOURS

Breakfast street foods

Street food vendor

Can Company whipped latté

it is still possible to stumble across them. It just takes someone in-the-know, and Lost Plate have become experts. https://lostplatefoodtours.com

THE EARLY MORNING HOURS IN Shanghai’s residential areas tend to offer easier-to-find street food of sorts. Of course, street-filled carts have been replaced with one-room brick and mortars, but the food is all the same. As the older generation heads to the market to pick up their groceries for the day, and the working classes start their commute, these small eateries are filled with delicious grab-ngo specialties. From crepe-like pancakes wrapped with savory and spicy sauces, an egg, and a crispy wafer, known locally as Jiānbing, to an assortment of fried doughs decorated with sesame seeds and filled with anything from sweet red bean paste to ground pork with green onions, you can eat something different for breakfast every day for a month in Shanghai.

JUST BEHIND SOUP DUMPLINGS on Shanghai’s list of most popular dishes

is Hóngshāo ròu, or red braised pork belly. Traditionally, this dish was only enjoyed during festivals and celebrations as served to impress guests. This is because meat was traditionally expensive and hard to come by, but also because of the difficulty and time it takes to prepare the dish. Chunks of pork belly are seared to release the oil, and then stewed for hours in dark soy sauce and cane sugar, until a rich and sticky sauce coats each piece of meat. It’s a dish that requires high-quality ingredients and skilled preparation, is better than any thick-cut bacon you’ll ever eat, and is available at small restaurants in Shanghai’s French Concession.

For delicious shengjian bao (pan-fried pork or shrimp dumplings) and scallion oil noodles, head to Shanghainese diner Dong Tai Xiang, of which there are multiple outlets in the city. Offering very good value for money, other menu highlights include banmian (stirred noodles with dried shrimp and spring onion) and moreish shrimp wontons.

WHAT ABOUT DESSERT? CHINA’S central and northern regions aren’t known for their after-dinner sweets, but the south’s Cantonese region is. From sticky rice balls swimming in a bowl of coconut milk, to warm ginger pudding made with sweetened milk, dessert shops in this region often have larger selections than dinner menus. But Shanghai does have shops which specialise in the classic Cantonese dessert of fresh mango and sago, served with chilled coconut milk. It’s the perfect sweet end to a night exploring Shanghai’s lesser-known main dishes. Sitting on Yuyuan Lu (street), Tangwu is one of Shanghai’s most popular Cantonese dessert spots.

BUT WITH EVERY TRADITIONAL bite you find, there’s something less traditional also worth trying in Shanghai, which is a city where local chefs and shop owners tend to push their creativity further than an outsider may be used to, because they aren’t bound by long-developed norms.

Soup dumplings

Braised pork belly

TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

Coffee is an excellent example of this. In fact, Shanghai boasts one of the world’s highest number of coffee shops per-capita and is responsible for introducing an entire country-wide generation to the caffeinated beverage. This is particularly obvious in the French Concession.

Can Company (a highlight of Lost Plate’s breakfast tour) offers a seasonal rotation of beans, each with its own bespoke roast, and features traditional Chinese ingredients. Here, you can pick up a latté made with fermented rice wine and whipped espresso, topped with the shop’s logo created by torching cocoa powder through a stencil.

A restaurant promoting plant-based options that boldly combine ingredients from a variety of cuisines to create Sichuan-focused Asian inspired-dishes, the fact that Duli can survive, let alone thrive, shows that a substantial part of Shanghai’s population prefers new or unusual flavors and ingredients. Found

on Yanping Lu (street), Duli’s whole kernel corn bao bun filled with Sichuan peppercorn falafel, and Mapo Tofu Hummus, are unmissable.

AT THE OTHER END OF SHANGHAI’S food scene, a number of fine dining establishments have garnered international acclaim, further trumpeting the city as one of the world’s great gastronomic centres. And the city’s Michelin-starred restaurants reflect Shanghai’s cultural and gastronomic diversity, with establishments offering everything from avant-garde European cuisine to meticulously crafted Shanghainese dishes, with some Chinese chefs reinterpreting classic dishes with modern flair, using local ingredients in imaginative ways while honouring their culinary roots.

Amongst the standout stars of the city’s fine dining scene is PHÉNIX, a Michelin-starred restaurant that deftly

marries tradition and innovation. Located in The PuLi hotel, PHÉNIX offers a refined menu that celebrates the finest seasonal ingredients, expertly prepared with a French sensibility. The restaurant’s elegant yet understated aesthetic provides a unfussy backdrop for a dining experience that is both sophisticated and satisfying, and captures the essence of Shanghai’s evolving culinary identity. https://thepuli.com

SHANGHAI’S CULINARY SCENE obviously has a lot to offer, but it is hard for the average visitor to find authenticity. Without speaking the local

IMAGE: LOST PLATE FOOD TOURS

French Concession

language, or being able to use familiar apps like Yelp or Google Maps which are unavailable in the mainland, visitors sadly often gravitate toward the familiar. It’s difficult to muster up the courage to walk into a small hole-in-the-wall without knowing what they sell or how to order, but visiting the sourdough pizza joint next door with an English menu and familiar dishes is easy, and maybe that’s fine if you’ve spent a week traveling through China and you’re looking for the familiar. But it would be a shame to leave Shanghai having only eaten pizza and fine French fusion food. So, at the end of the day, a culinary exploration of Shanghai is what you make of it.

SHANGHAI’S CHARM LIES IN ITS ability to harmonise the old with the new, showcasing how Chinese traditions can thrive alongside contemporary global trends. And so a meaningful visit requires one to experience both ends of this spectrum. Companies like Lost Plate Food Tours make one end of it accessible, removing the necessity for research, and guiding travellers to endangered hidden gems that embody the spirit of old-Shanghai. And by visiting these traditional restaurants, we all do our part to support and preserve traditional Shanghai food culture, in a city that seems almost addicted to modern development.

IMAGE: LOST PLATE

Mango dessert

THE PULI HOTEL & SPA

1 CHANGDE ROAD, JINGAN DISTRICT, SHANGHAI

A VERITABLE URBAN RESORT NESTLED IN THE HEART OF bustling JingAn district, The PuLi offers a luxurious retreat amidst the dynamic vibe of China’s largest city. Conveniently situated within walking distance of the charming French Concession, with its leafy streets and boutique shopping, the hotel is just a brief drive from The Bund, where Shanghai’s historic and modern skylines converge in breathtaking style.

Architecturally, The PuLi strikingly juxtaposes sleek contemporary modernity and traditional Chinese elegance in timeless fashion, its minimalist exterior giving way to a warm, sophisticated interior, where natural materials, including timber and stone, create an inviting ambience. The hotel’s expansive lobby, with its elegant art installations and tranquil water features, sets a serene tone for arriving guests, and also provides a chic forum for meeting friends, socialising, eating, and drinking at Shanghai’s longest cocktail bar. Off the lobby, a beautiful library provides respite for those who simply fancy relaxing with a book.

Upstairs, 229 stylish rooms and suites, bedecked in dark woods and sleek furnishings, are warm and comfortable and many boast incredible panoramic views from inside The PuLi’s glass tower. Open-plan studio rooms, each with a large sofa and sliding screens to separate different areas, make the perfect base from which to explore Shanghai.

The PuLi’s spa is an urban oasis of calm, offering a comprehensive range of treatments designed to rejuvenate and relax. Not to be missed is the stunning indoor infinity pool, which looks out over JingAn Park.

Service at The PuLi is outstanding, with attentive staff providing personalised care that makes every guest feel valued. Dining at the hotel equally impresses, and is helmed by Michelin-starred PHÉNIX restaurant, which offers a sophisticated culinary experience that skilfully blends French and international flavours, make the best use of the freshest seasonal ingredients. www.thepuli.com

Garden Terrace

suite with a view

PREMIUM ROOM 204 ➤ MLN KONGDE LODGE, KONGDE RI, NEPAL

WHILE THE TRAIL FROM LUKLA all the way to Everest Base Camp is dotted with hamlets and is alive with tourists and locals alike, the Kongde path, taken by Khumbu Sherpas in centuries past, is a lesser-known trail that offers adventurers a purer interaction with Mother Nature.

ALMOST CERTAINLY THE HIGHEST HOTEL on the continent, perched at an altitude of 4,250 metres on the edge of Kongde Ri, completely encircled by mountains, Kongde Lodge is seemingly on top of the world. The historic 16th century trading post of Namche Bazaar resembles a colourful Lego town below. Five of the world’s highest mountains surround the lodge, namely Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyo, Gyajung Khang, and Ama Dablam. And the lodge’s

largest room offers its inhabitants an array of breathtaking panoramas, from dawn through to dusk, via many windows at the front of the building.

TO SAY THAT KONGDE LODGE IS AN exceptionally rare Himalayan experience would be a serious understatement. Its deeply layered north view of the Khumbu valley, capped by Mount Everest on the horizon, is utterly unmatched. Stars in the sky above are so numerous and bright, that lodge guests feel like they’re one of them. And the incredible setting can be enjoyed from the warmth of the lodge’s inviting lounge and bar, or one of many cosy window seats that frame the spellbinding views. There truly is no place like Kongde Lodge on earth.

https://mountainlodgesofnepal.com

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

A

ANNA SUI

➤ www.annasui.com

C

CASTLE ELVIRA

➤ www.castleelvira.com

D

DOROTHEA HOTEL

➤ www.dorotheahotel.com

F

FAIRMONT JAIPUR

➤ www.fairmont.com/jaipur

H

HYDE BODRUM

➤ www.hydehotels.com

L

LA ROQQA

➤ www.laroqqa.com

LOST PLATE FOOD TOURS

➤ www.lostplatefoodtours.com

M

MERCURE DUBAI DEIRA

➤ www.mercure.accor.com

MIRANDA PENN TURIN

➤ www.mirandapennturin.com

MLN KONGDE LODGE

➤ www.mountainlodgesofnepal.com

MOUNTAIN LODGES OF NEPAL

➤ www.mountainlodgesofnepal.com

N

NAMMOS HOTEL MYKONOS

➤ www.nammoshotels.com

NEPAL TOURISM BOARD

➤ www.ntb.gov.np

NUJUMA

➤ www.ritzcarltonreserve.com

O

OCCIDENTAL HOTEL, LJUBLJANA

➤ www.barcelo.com/en

P

PAPER MOON LONDON

➤ www.papermoonlondon.com

PHÉNIX (RESTAURANT)

➤ www.thepuli.com

R

RAJASTHAN TOURISM

➤ www.tourism.rajasthan.gov.in

RIJKS (RESTAURANT)

➤ www.rijksrestaurant.nl

S

SANCTUARY CAP CANA

➤ www.sanctuarycapcana.com

SHINTA MANI MUSTANG

➤ www.shintamanimustang.com

SINGITA MILELE

➤ www.singita.com

SIX SENSES KYOTO

➤ www.sixsenses.com

SONEVA SECRET 2024

➤ www.soneva.com

TTHE DUNLIN

➤ www.aubergeresorts.com

THE PULI HOTEL & SPA

➤ www.thepuli.com

THE ST. REGIS LA BAHIA

BLANCA RESORT

➤ www.stregis.com

THE VIEW AGADIR

➤ www.theviewhotels.com

V

VISIT LJUBLJANA

➤ www.visitljubljana.com/en

Z

ZANDRA RHODES

➤ www.zandrarhodes.com

ZEL COSTA BRAVA

➤ www.hellozel.com

Marpha Village, Lower Mustang

Jomsom, Lower Mustang

TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE TOP

anna sui

INSPIRED BY NEW YORK’S PUNK AND CLUBBING SCENES, THE AMERICAN FASHION DESIGNER LAUNCHED HER FIRST READYTO-WEAR COLLECTION ALMOST 45 YEARS

AGO. TODAY VERY MUCH AN ICON OF THE INDUSTRY, THIS IS HOW ANNA SUI FLIES BETWEEN THE STATES, ASIA, AND EUROPE:

LUGGAGE I’m a devout Tumi customer. My favourites are from my first collaboration with Tumi in Spring 2012. I also have an expandable piece, which is perfect for short trips of less than one week. I keep wanting to buy the next size up, because every time I travel, on the way home, I only just fit all of my purchases into my luggage. Thank goodness for the expandable feature! I also love Globe-Trotter luggage, and I have a gorgeous case that I haven’t used yet. Not sure why I’m saving it.

PRE-FLIGHT I usually arrive at the airport at least 1.5 – 2 hours before the plane takes off, so I don't feel pressured if there are long queues. This also gives me some time to explore gift shops in search of local handicrafts.

CARRY-ON I like to travel light: Toothbrush (to brush after every meal); a light sweatshirt or sweater; a scarf because it’s sometimes freezing on a plane; iPhone; charger, and a pen.

IN-FLIGHT On long-haul flights I can usually fall asleep. If not, I limit myself to two movies. I almost always have books and magazines with me on a flight because I can catch-up with stuff on a plane. I am currently reading Me and Mr. Jones: My Life with David Bowie and the Spiders from Mars, which was written by Suzie Ronson, who created David Bowie’s iconic Ziggy Stardust look. Another book I’m reading is Do Something: Coming of Age Amid the Glitter and Doom of 70’s New York by Guy Trebay. I subscribe to MOJO magazine so I can catch up on the latest music news, especially classic rock.

zone I am in. This usually minimises jet lag. After years of travelling between America, Asia and Europe for work, this has always seemed to help.

FOOD & DRINK If I’m flying out of London, my secret snack is one of Pret A Manger’s Hoisin Duck Salad Wraps. It’s like Peking Duck in a sandwich!

ACCESSORIES Marimekko is a Finnish textiles company founded in the 1950s and I love its black and white Unniko flower design. I carry my eyeglasses, jewellery and cosmetics in Marimekko travel pouches. Also, I always have a crossbody bag with me on my travels, because it fits all of my essentials, passport, money, wallet, etc.

BODY CLOCK I’m a believer in staying up until midnight no matter where I have travelled to, to get onto the time

CAN’T TRAVEL WITHOUT Something HANRO, because the cotton is so soft.

Anna Sui x Tumi case