front of house
Game-changer With the staff shortage growing by the day, most people think of dwindling apprentice numbers and the struggle to find a good chef. But what about those magical beings that set tables, talk customers through a wine list, deliver plates of food and complete a restaurant experience? It’s time to shine a spotlight on the other half of a restaurant and take note of the successes and hardships experienced by front of house. By Annabelle Cloros.
T
he primary reason people go to restaurants is to eat and drink. Food is often the primary motivator to get customers into a restaurant, but there are two forces at play as soon as they walk through the door. The difference between awkwardly waiting a few minutes for a table and a prompt, courteous welcome can make or break a dining experience. But it’s up to the industry to change the way we look at front of house from an inbetween job to a long-term career that’s just as viable and rewarding as one in the kitchen. Kylie Javier Ashton from Momofuku Seiobo and The Fink Group’s Jeremy Courmadias are two industry leaders enacting change from the ground up.
THEN AND NOW The way we think about front of house has slowly but surely started to shift, both from an internal and external perspective. Diners are increasingly aware of how their waiter
34 Hospitality June 2018
Bennelong restaurant
or waitress describes the food, if they make suggestions for a wine pairing and even how frequently they fill up their water glass. Chefs are also placing more trust in wait staff and there is no longer a divide of ‘us vs them’. But it hasn’t always been this way. “The industry has changed a lot from when I started 12 years ago,” says Javier Ashton. “The focus went to the chef and has been there for the past 10 years. Now, people are starting to understand the value of front of house because you can’t run a restaurant without it.” Courmadias worked in the UK for almost half of his career, and notes the differences of the value of service compared to Australia. “In the UK, service is seen as a profession and an important part of the industry,” he says. “In Australia, the industry is still very much seen as a go-between job that you do on the way to doing something else.” The Fink Group general manager also notes the impact of reality TV on the industry.
