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Golden Century is a Sydney institution that has been in business for almost 30 years. Here, we talk to owners Eric and Linda and their son Billy about the impact of Sydney lockout laws on restaurants, losing chefs due to visa constraints and why they haven’t reached the pinnacle of success just yet. By Annabelle Cloros.
olden Century is a haunt for many things — tanks of live seafood, David Chang, cuisine that prides itself on consistency, and of course, the many chefs that trickle in for supper after service. Eric and Linda Wong opened the restaurant on Sussex Street in 1990 and are proud of Golden Century’s multi-generational appeal. Most Sydneysiders have enjoyed a meal at the venue, or at least heard stories about their legendary XO pippies — which we can report are bloody delicious. But Golden Century didn’t reach its cult-like status without the grit and determination of Eric and Linda, who still work seven days a week.
LEADING FROM THE TOP The importance of a present management team at a venue cannot be underestimated, and staff are often more receptive and engaged if they see the top dog completing the same tasks as them, such as clearing tables or interacting with customers. 8 Hospitality June 2018
“When our staff see the boss, they know [we] still have to work and look after customers,” says Eric. “One time, someone asked Linda how many days she worked and she responded with eight.” While many owners look forward to the day they can step back from day-to-day operations, Eric and Linda still get as much enjoyment running the business in 2018 as they did in 1990. Striving to be better is an admirable quality to have, and the Wongs still think Golden Century hasn’t hit the big time — at least from their perspective. “I don’t think we’re successful yet,” says Eric. “Some of my relatives say, ‘Eric, you’re so successful already — why are you still working every day?’ And I say, ‘Because I love Golden Century — I love my job and I enjoy work.” Eric also cites another perk of the job — the food. “Everyone has to work hard, get money and then go to Golden Century for a meal. But for me, I’m lucky because I can enjoy a meal and still keep my money,” he laughs.
FAMILY VALUES Family businesses form a large part of Australia’s professional landscape, and there’s often a deeper level of care teamed with a common goal to succeed. Family values are very much present at Golden Century and are shared between management and staff alike. “Some of my staff have worked here since day one and there are more than 30 employees who have worked here for over 15 years; they all say Golden Century is a family,” says Eric. “When you have a business, capital is essential, but the team is just as important.”
STAFFING AND VISA CHALLENGES Golden Century requires a hefty workforce thanks to their extensive operating hours from 12 noon to 4am. The restaurant currently employs around 140 staff — including full-time, casual and part-time workers — and are constantly on the lookout for more people, but admit they are struggling to recruit Australian workers.
