Hospitality June 2022

Page 38

FEATURE // Calzone

In the fold Deep-fried or baked, there’s a calzone for everyone. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

“You want those little charred bits and blisters because they’re the best parts.” – Tony Percuoco

CALZONE HAILS FROM Naples, Italy,

Calzone has been around since the

to eat on the go. While it’s not the most

for Italians to get rid of leftover

and was quizzically created as a food takeaway-friendly snack that comes to mind, calzone, which translates

to ‘pants legs’, provided a satisfying

solution to those who favoured using their hands instead of cutlery.

The half-moon pizza riff has

experienced various bouts of

popularity over the years, largely

ingredients. There are two types of

calzone: the larger, oven-baked version called al forno (from the oven) and

its smaller, crispy counterpart known as fritto. “The original is cooked in a wood-fired oven, while the fritto is deep-fried,” says Lucio De Falco.

The chef describes calzone al forno

thanks to screentime on The Sopranos,

as the “cousin of the Margherita pizza”

who appreciate something familiar,

to Neapolitan traditions at his two

but it’s been a must-order for those yet different at Italian restaurants.

Hospitality speaks to Tony Percuoco

from Ristorante Tartufo and Lucio De

Falco from Lucio’s Pizzeria about their experiences growing up with calzone, how it compares to its round sibling

and why the upscale pizza pocket will always have a place on their menus. 38 | Hospitality

18th century and presented a means

and makes his version according

Sydney restaurants. “People had the idea of taking a pizza, folding it in

half and cooking it,” he says. “It’s a

folded pizza base made using common ingredients such as ricotta and salami, which match so well together. The

fillings have changed over time, and

each region uses alternate ingredients.


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