Retail Beauty Spring 2022

Elle Macpherson

The Body, the Business Woman

EASY

Expert Skincare Insights

SEALED WITH AScent The

Wrap

HEMP SOOTHING BODY BALM

HEMP CONDITIONING LIP BALM

HEMP NOURISHING FACE & BODY OIL

HEMP INFUSED MOISTURISER

HEMP SEED OIL –The New Holy Grail of Skincare.

Seasonal change is upon us, and as the colder and drier months swing by we need to dial up our skincare regime. You’ll notice your skin doesn’t behave at all like it used to, going from nourished and plump to dry and dull overnight. Thankfully hemp seed oil is one natural ingredient that can go a long way in keeping your skin happy and hydrated throughout all seasons –especially for those with sensitive or irritable skin

Nutrient rich and filled with vitamins A & E and omegas 3 & 6 this wonder oil works to promote skin health by regulating the skin’s oil production without clogging pores. Ideal for sensitive skin, hemp seed oil is effective at reducing fine lines and wrinkles whilst boosting skin hydration. It is also suitable to use on breakouts and eczema prone skin.

The Hemptuary® Skincare range, made with 100% natural ingredients, harnesses the best of nature. Simple, yet effective, the collection is packed full of high-nutrient oils that boast benefits for your skin.

The marvel ingredients found in our Hemptuary® products include; Organic Hemp Seed Oil, Manuka Oil, Sea Buckthorn, Calendula Flower Extract and, Avocado Oil; many of which have anti-fungal, antiinflammatory and, antibacterial

properties that may assist with healing wounds and relieving irritable skin conditions. Additionally, these oils may help to suppress wrinkle development, increase skin thickness and elasticity, improve sun damage, and protect against dryness.

Hemptuary® was born last year after AFT Pharmaceutical’s Director of International Business, Louise Clayton, discovered the amazing benefits of hemp seed oil on the skin whilst evaluating the hemp plant as part of a larger pharmaceutical project.

Louise, who has managed and led successful natural skincare brands over the last 20 years, says, “creating our beautiful, hempbased brand was driven by a simple philosophy – to harness the best of nature to nurture your skin. By monitoring industry trends and researching the most remarkable ingredients nature has to offer, our team of skincare experts love nothing better than creating simple, effective formulations that work.”

The collection of five Hemptuary® products includes a Hemp Soothing Body Balm, Hemp Nourishing Face & Body Oil, Hemp Conditioning Lip Balm, Luxurious Hemp Face & Body Soap, and Hemp Infused Moisturiser.

HEMP FACE & BODY SOAP

TRY HEMPTUARY TODAY FOR FREE!

For a FREE SAMPLE, email hemptuary@aftpharm.com with your store name, address and phone number.

New Look, Age-Defying Skincare.

Recover the ‘triangle of youth’ with these gentle and nourishing formulas scientifically designed for mature skin.

Reinventing skincare for mature skin, the new look Advance Superlift range from Skin Physics® addresses concerns of hydration & elastin breakdown, the main cause of visible sagging and drooping in maturing skin.

Ideal for those aged 55+, the range features five science-backed formulas that combine advanced peptides, vitamins, minerals and botanical actives, to lift the appearance of sagging contours, restore cheekbone and jawline definition and smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The advanced skincare range includes:

Neck Lifting & Firming Cream | $79.95

A targeted age recovery formula that helps to visibly tone & firm the fragile skin of the neck, lift the appearance of a sagging jawline & double chin and smooth ageing skin on the chest.

Face Lifting & Toning Cream | $69.95

A multi-action, anti-gravity formula that helps to restore definition of facial contours, smooth and hydrate the skin for a tighter and uplifted facial appearance.

Eye Contouring Serum | $59.95

A scientifically designed formula for a complete 360° revival and prevention of the signs of ageing and fatigue around the eye contour.

Lifting & Firming Complex | $34.95

An advanced anti-ageing complex that helps to restore skin firmness and elasticity and improve the appearance of deeper wrinkles & sagging contours for a complete v-shape recovery.

Deep Hydration Lifting Masks | $29.95

Microfibre face & neck masks uniquely designed to mould to the shape of the face, jawline and neck. Infused with intensely rehydrating levels of Hyaluronic Acid & Natto Gum to help restore lost moisture for visibly smooth & hydrated skin in just 15 minutes.

For more

This lightweight, milky serum is bursting with a unique blend of nutrients that work to keep skin soft and hydrated. Support the balance of your skin microbiome with non-dairy probiotic ACB yoghurt, plus vitamin-rich BeauPlex® VH and soothing Jojoba Milk.

To stock, call The Jojoba Company on (02) 9651 3030 or email orders@thejojobacompany.com.au

Lactobacillus

Beauplex Vitamin for 4 weeks

The Body, Beauty and Business

Back in 1989, Elle Macpherson was given the nickname ‘The Body’ by Time magazine after appearing on their front cover. The entrepreneurial model then started to build a brand around body products, the body consciousness and body wellness. In 2014 she co-founded the business WelleCo, which specialises in health and wellness products including plant proteins and dietary supplements. This issue, I was fortunate enough to sit down with the incredibly intelligent Elle – who was set to become a lawyer before her modelling career kicked off – to find out what it took to go from ‘The Body’ to successful businesswoman in the beauty and wellness space, page 40.

Another hugely successful businesswoman I had the pleasure of meeting was Brianne West, Founder and CEO of Ethique, the world’s first zero-waste beauty brand. We met at Naturally Good expo, where Brianne spoke about the importance of purposedriven companies, and how they are outperforming others in almost every way - from culture and talent hire, brand equity and even profit, page 74.

Competition at retail is tougher than ever before. Each week it seems there’s a new challenger brand jostling for shelf space. How do you get on shelf and stay there? Jessica Maree Gordoun, founder of Ranged, has been on both sides of the table, and understands the fundamentals of what it takes to make a brand successful in retail. Jessica shares her three golden rules to growing brands in retail, page 68.

In June this year, the global mainstream media gave blanket coverage to the news that Revlon had filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in the US. The Revlon Australia and New Zealand

subsidiary had to spring into action to assure retailers and customers that the local arm of the heritage colour cosmetics brand was still doing very well indeed. Elisabeth King chats to Tracey Raso, Managing Director of Revlon, Pacific Region, about the much-loved brand’s continuing dominance and success in both markets, page 18.

It seems as though these past few winter months have felt like a lifetime - but spring has finally sprung! Consumer engagement in the fragrance category is growing worldwide, as people once again socialise. Quality, differentiation and wellness are some of the main drivers leading to the growth of niche and prestige perfumery. We are celebrating the turn of the season with a focus on fragrance, particularly as Michael Edwards’ latest edition of Fragrances of the World is now out, page 48. We also chat to Lotte Duty Free Fragrance Specialists, who share their top retail sales tips and tricks, page 52, and have rounded up some of our top juices for our fine fragrance photoshoot, page 46.

There’s so much more in this jam-packed issue I haven’t even begun to mention – the latest in eye creams, K-Beauty megatrends, what’s driving Australian retail – we hope this issue of Retail Beauty will keep you reading for a long while!

“Consumer engagement in the fragrance category is growing worldwide, as people once again socialise”

retail_beauty_ retail_beauty_ RetailBeautyMagazine retail-beauty

Elle Macpherson on all things Welleco.

re’drinks is a range of naturally flavoured beverages with a unique selection of active ingredients.

re’drinks not only tastes amazing, but benefits your body and mind from the inside out. Rethink what you put in your body, make re’drinks part of your health and wellbeing routine.*

re’new moves the daily beauty routine from night time to any time. Containing 15g of Hydrolysed Collagen, a new era in youthful skin awaits.

re’lax is a new era in relaxation, using ashwagandha to assist with alleviating physical, chemical and biological stressors.

re’focus can extend cognitive performance and brain power through the natural, vegan power of phytolin.

re’store uses a gentle blend of sea kelp to help de-bloat and settle the stomach, the natural way.

In Essence In Box Seat for Global Rise in Mood-Boosting and Immunity Aromatherapy

Tracey Raso, Managing Director of Revlon, Pacific Region

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The Next K-Beauty Megatrend

Selling Beauty in the Retail Beasts by Jessica Maree Gordoun

Integrations by Nick Larcher

Science and Nature

Recognising their influence, the founding sisters of In Essence dedicated their lives to educating the community on how to transform their health and wellbeing naturally. With their passion and knowledge, the forerunners went on to achieve Australian industry recognition for the medicinal use of pure essential oils. Today, the company is an industry leader with over 30 years’ experience in sourcing and blending Mother Nature’s most powerful pure essential oils. In Essence is dedicated to delivering holistic health and wellbeing solutions through the power of pure essential oils backed by science.

CONTACT DETAILS

RETAIL BEAUTY Publisher

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Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286

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Power

Market by Jarna McLean

by Brianne

Kisnorbo, Celebrity MUA

Dopamine Beauty by Michael Brown

INFLUENCER

Makeup Art Therapy by Tashi Jade Bell

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Contributors

ASSOCIATE EDITOR BUSINESS FEATURES

ELISABETH KING

Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty

CLAYTON ILOLAHIA

Clayton works in communication and evaluation for Fragrances of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

TASHI JADE BELL

Tashi Jade Bell is a self-taught MUA with a passion for colour, who first discovered the magic of makeup and skincare in 2010 when she visited Sephora in NYC. She began creating beauty and fashion content in 2013, beginning on YouTube, and it wasn’t long before she was a part-time content creator. Beauty has also worked as a form of therapy for the former lawyer, who previously specialised in private equity and venture capital for over 10 years, but was forced to retire from her stressful career due to treatment resistant depression and anxiety. Tashi Jade Bell now uses her social media presence, which currently has over 75,000 followers on Instagram @paint_ bytashijadebell, as a form of art therapy. Tashi Jade Bell is also a co-host of @thebeautybusinesspodcast.

MICHAEL BROWN

Growing up as a dancer, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of make-up artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra. Michael is also co-host of the Nova podcast Skinfluence.

NIKITA PAPAS

An established PR and Communications Director, Nikita Papas has garnered 15+ years of experience within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. As a qualified and experienced business marketer, he understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive brand journey. A visionary content producer, Nikita is renowned for creating persuasive copy, and seamless visual narratives that ignite desire, engagement, and ultimate brand success. He connects with the most enviable beauty and fashion brands, media tastemakers, influencers, and creative agencies.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED

Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

Good

Vibes

Good Vibes - In Essence In Box Seat for Global Rise in Mood-Boosting and Immunity Aromatherapy

by Elisabeth King

Aromatherapy, or essential oil therapy, became one of the hotspots of the wellness industry during the Covid-19 crisis. Leading international market researchers and analysts such as Market Research Future and Vantage Market Research predict that the global aromatherapy market will experience double digit growth over the next five years to reach sales of between US$2.49 billion and US$4.9 billion per year.

There has been a huge surge in demand for essential oils with immunity and anti-bacterial effects during the pandemic. As an alternative to pharmaceutical drugs, sales of aromatherapy treatments targeting stress, anxiety and insomnia also soared in Australia and worldwide.

MARKET LEADING POSITION/ SLEEP, STRESS AND ANXIETY A MAJOR FOCUS

In Essence, a market leader in sourcing the finest essential oils and delivering premium, solutions-based treatments, has been widely regarded as the most trusted pure essential oils brand in Australia for more than 30 years. Maggie Maroussis, Head of Learning and Development for Heritage Brands, says that the brand’s TGA-listed therapeutic products will remain a strong focus for the year ahead.

“One of the biggest uplifts in sales has been for sleep-promoting products such as ie: Sleep, a blend of 100% pure Lavender, Mandarin, Roman Chamomile and Valerian”, she says. “We also launched ie: Sleep No Lavender last year and it sold out immediately. Consumers who don’t like lavender loved the sedative effects of Marjoram.”

We are seeing people suffering from sleep problems across all ages and genders, says Maroussis. “Our treatments are effective and safe and we are seeing an uptick in the number of male customers. The Covid-19 pandemic also saw a huge increase in the number of consumers suffering from stress and anxiety. The packaging of our ie: range looks medicinal and speaks directly to customers. The ie: Anxiety SKU is a blend of Sweet Orange, Lavender, Ylang Ylang and Frankincense to calm and soothe. While ie: Stress relieves nervous tension, stress and headaches with a mix of 100% Pure Orange, Mandarin, Geranium, Patchouli and Bergamot”.

A GROUNDBREAKING NEW DIFFUSER

Essential oils aren’t the only aromatherapy category on a roll. The global aromatherapy diffuser market was valued at US$1.826 billion in 2021 and is projected to register a compound annual growth rate of 7.85 per cent to 2027. A trend fueled by consumers worldwide looking to create a spa feeling at home and the rise in popularity of immunity-boosting essential oils.

The In Essence Waterless Diffuser was one of the brand’s most successful launches this year. It’s a bespoke diffuser which suits all lifestyles, says Pat Princi-Jones, In Essence consultant and celebrated aromatherapy expert. “A first generation product, it has the latest nebulising technology, resulting in a high potency aroma dispersed without the need for heat or water. The undiluted essential oil molecules when inhaled are quickly absorbed into the body and depending on the chosen blend, can provide a profound effect on both physical and emotional states, including calming the mind, promoting sleep, and uplifting the mind and body.”

Waterless essential oil diffusers are the perfect travel companion. “Our waterless diffuser is compact and cordless, so it’s a great pick for travel,” says Princi-Jones. “Waterless diffusers allow users to experience the potency of the essential oil or blend of their choice straight from the bottle.”

BOOSTING IMMUNITY TO REMAIN A MAJOR CONSUMER CONCERN

The Covid-19 pandemic transformed the business as more consumers turned to aromatherapy to boost their immunity levels, says Princi-Jones. “The efficacy of essential oils has been proven by scientific research and they offer a holistic approach to wellness. Effective essential oils such as 100% Pure Lemon, Eucalyptus, Marjoram and Australian Sandalwood, for example, used in In Essence blends help to relieve mild fever, sore throat and other symptoms of the common cold and flu.”

Sales of In Essence ie: Breathe, Immune and Sleep have gone ballistic over the past couple of years, she says. “Social media has also been a huge help in targeting new markets. Younger consumers have really researched using diffusers and the scientific backing behind essential oils and know that there’s no marketing spin. Young mothers are also a major market in themselves as they deal with high levels of daily stress. We recommend Lavender to promote sleep and Geranium massaged onto affected areas to relieve aches and pains, adding 3 drops of Geranium to 1 tbsp. Sweet Almond Massage Oil. Diffusing the ie: Sleep blend will create a haven for sleep.”

IN ESSENCE - FAST FACTS

• In Essence was founded in 1986 and built up an unrivaled reputation for its healing and lifestyle essential oil products.

• Heritage Brands, the entrepreneurial beauty and wellbeing company whose portfolio includes more than 20 household name brands such as Australis, Innoxa and Cedel, acquired In Essence and Oil Garden from Australian Natural Brands in 2012. The acquisition made Heritage Brands the market leader in the aromatherapy category in Australia.

• In Essence sources oils from a network of farmers and producers committed to supplying authentic, unadulterated oils for medicinal use in Australia and from around the world. All products are cruelty-free and not tested on animals.

• All In Essence oils are bottled in Victoria after undergoing a stringent quality assurance program.

• Core product ranges include - ie: natural effective relief, which treats 11 major concerns from colds and flu to sleeplessness, Lifestyle Blends such as Harmony and Relax, Exotic Blends, the Australian Native Collection, the Australian Native Landmark Blends, Carrier Oils and a range of 8 diffusers.

AUSTRALIAN-MADE/STRONG RETAILER FOCUS

Consumers preferred to buy Australian brands before and during the Covid-19 pandemic and we are seeing that they are continuing to do so, says Maroussis. “In Essence is an iconic Australian brand and the fact that our products are TGA-listed and of the highest quality is very important to Aussie consumers. But we plan to have more of a global presence in the future. New Zealand and China are already two of our best international markets.”

In Essence products are available online but looking after key retailers remains a top priority for In Essence, she says. “Every new retailer receives a gift of a blend and we offer extensive education tools to their service teams and to consumers. We also organise inperson training and they can also pick up the phone at any time if they need any query answered.” ■

For more information, go to: www.inessence.com.au Always read the label and follow directions for use

Maggie Maroussis

Strength in Numbers

by Elisabeth King

Tracey Raso, Managing Director of Revlon, Pacific Region, Talks About the Brand’s Market Leading Position and Future Growth Plans.

In June this year, the global mainstream media gave blanket coverage to the news that Revlon had filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in the US. The Revlon Australia and New Zealand subsidiary had to spring into action to assure retailers and customers that the local arm of the heritage colour cosmetics brand was still doing very well indeed.

Australia and New Zealand are the second biggest market for Revlon outside the US. Retail Beauty talks to Tracey Raso, Managing Director of Revlon, Pacific Revlon about the much-loved brand’s continuing dominance and success in both markets.

NUMBER TWO IN TOTAL COSMETICS MARKET/NUMBER ONE IN LIP, EYESHADOW AND FOUNDATION AND CHEMIST WAREHOUSE

Consumer demand for our products locally remains strong, says Raso. “Consumers love our brands, which is why we continue to have a leading market position in Australia and New Zealand. In Australia, Revlon enjoys the #2 brand position across the total cosmetics market, thanks to prestige quality products at an accessible price point, continuous innovation and inclusive brand positioning.”

Revlon also holds the enviable position of the #1 ranking in the lip category with a 29 per cent market share, she says. “We also hold the #1 rankings in foundation and eyeshadow, with respective market shares of 23 per cent and 29 per cent. Constant innovation is a given across the beauty industry and consumers are hungry for all the trends they see across social media and Revlon continues to deliver.”

Revlon New Zealand is also in a dominant position, adds Raso. “We are the #1 cosmetics brand with a significant 27.7 per cent market share of the pharmacy channel in cosmetics. Revlon is 12.1 per cent ahead of the number two brand, Maybelline New York, and 15. 1 per cent ahead of the third placegetter in the New Zealand market, L’Oréal Paris.”

Globally, makeup sales have been on the upswing and the Australian market has mirrored the trend. 2020 was a challenging year but the total makeup category in Australia grew by 1.8 per cent in 2021, she notes. “Throughout this time Revlon maintained its #2 makeup ranking and continues to gain market share in pharmacy year-to-date—its largest sales channel. The brand also has a #1 ranking in cosmetics in Chemist Warehouse, Australia’s number one cosmetics pharmacy retailer. During the first half of this year, we reinvigorated our core business led by the ColorStay and Super Lustrous franchises and elevated support and activation plans to drive consumer demand.”

ONE MILLION AUSTRALIAN SHOPPERS/ POSITIVE IMPACT OF DELTA GOODREM AND NEW LAUNCHES

We have one million shoppers buying Revlon products in Australia alone, says Raso. “We successfully grew our shopper base in 2021 by 29 per cent - about 192,000 shoppers - which was ahead of key competitors for the period.”

The first half of 2022 has been one of our strongest annual starts to date, she says. “Kicking off the year was the re-launch of Revlon’s #1 product and #1 foundation brand in Australia—ColorStay Longwear Makeup. The new improved formulation with skincare ingredients is exceeding expectations and is currently the #1 new product launch of 2022 in the pharmacy channel.”

As the number one lip brand in Australia, it was only fitting for Revlon to drive innovation in the category in 2022 with ColorStay Matte Lite Crayons, she adds. “It was also the first campaign spearheaded by Delta Goodrem as our first Australian brand ambassador. With a fully integrated launch at retail and an impactful launch campaign, the Matte Lite Lip Crayons were the #1 lip launch in pharmacy year-to-date. Both launches have helped Revlon to attract new customers to the brand.”

Delta Goodrem’s appointment as the brand’s first local ambassador last year was a significant testament to the strength and performance of Revlon Australia and New Zealand globally as the #2 region in the world outside of the US, says Raso. “Since the launch of Delta, the positive impact on brand health in conjunction with new product launches and strengthened communication plans has been overwhelming. A prominent strategy for driving Delta was to drive local relevance and shift brand perceptions to improve consideration—or how likely consumers are to choose Revlon.”

The results speak for themselves. Consideration has increased to 69 per cent, a 7 per cent increase year-on-year, for the 25 to 39 age group—a key growth demographic for the brand, she notes. “For lip specifically, Revlon has overtaken MAC as the #1 brand, which we haven’t experienced since 2017. Overall, with all the tactics in place across the last six months, the brand’s image is shifting from our 90 year heritage as a classic brand to a new positioning as a modern, trendy and innovative brand.”

EXCLUSIVE PARTNERSHIPS/ GIVING BACK/ STRONG RETAILER SUPPORT

Over the coming months, the focus on Delta will continue with an upcoming launch for one of our leading lip franchises, which will take Revlon to a new generation to further enhance the modernity and relevance of the brand with consumers, says Raso.

“In July, we took part in a philanthropic campaign to celebrate and give back on International Lipstick Day on the 29th of the month. We united with the Delta Goodrem Foundation and Chemist Warehouse for an exclusive partnership and the company donated $2 from every purchase of Super Lustrous lipstick to Look Good Feel Better, the national program which helps men and women suffering from cancer to improve their appearance and self-esteem. Next year, Revlon will continue to focus on consumer-driven innovation across the lip and face categories with new technology to continue our on-going ‘skinification’ of makeup.”

Supporting retailers has been a strong pillar for Revlon in Australia and New Zealand for decades. But in the last 12 months, we have increased the level of support for all retailers, prioritising big bets while focusing on our strengths and levers to put Revlon at the forefront of consumers’ minds, she says. “From in-store theatre to product education, participation in key event and promotional periods, it

TRACEY RASO - FAST FACTS

• Tracey Raso joined Revlon as Marketing Director in 2011, becoming the General Manager in 2015.

• In 2017, she was appointed as Managing Director, Pacific Region, Revlon Australia and New Zealand.

• Over the past five years, she has helmed the company to increased market share and sales growth and presided over the successful integration of the Elizabeth Arden business.

• Prior to joining Revlon, Raso held senior marketing positions in the alcohol, food and personal care industries, working for leading multinationals such as Diageo, Colgate-Palmolive and Campbell Arnott’s.

• She is also the chair of the Accord Australasia board, the industry body representing the hygiene, cosmetic and speciality products industry.

is critical to work collaboratively with each retailer across varying channels and play to their strengths. Integrating Delta Goodrem into retailer plans has been crucial for the brand to excite, engage and drive relevance for the brand.

“Revlon has always stood for best-in-class merchandising to create a consistent brand look and feel at every touchpoint. This requires significant collaboration with retailers to execute effectively, facilitate speed to market and showcase our strength as a global brand with the ability to work locally. We are consistently monitoring the evolution of in-store and online experiences to stimulate creativity and shape our go-to-market strategies.”

CONSUMER INSIGHTS AND SOCIAL MEDIA DRIVE GROWTH

“Everything we do at Revlon is driven by consumer insights,” notes Raso. “We are continuously tracking buyer behaviour, industry trends and competitor activity to ensure we are meeting consumer expectations. Our existing customers have followed the brand for decades. They are loyalists that engage with the brand and have been at the forefront of many of our #1 products.”

Social media is the most valuable tool we have to understand how our consumers are engaging with our products, she says. “For example, with the rise in beauty tool sales during the pandemic, we saw many women adapting to at-home skincare regimes inspired by K-Beauty trends from Korea. This trend has naturally progressed into the cosmetics sector with so-called ‘dolphin’ or ‘glassy’ skin and brightening concealers and bright pink palates became increasingly popular.”

For Revlon, it’s all about discovery, therefore channels such as TikTok and Pinterest and relationships with creators and influencers have become an integral part of our marketing strategies, says Raso. “A key example of how these platforms have driven growth is our Volcanic Roller in the beauty tools sector. This iconic product went viral on TikTok globally, thanks to content creators. Sales have increased exponentially with 137 per cent growth year-to-date. It’s also become a hero item picked up by the influential daigou market in Australia.” ■

Next year, Revlon will continue to focus on consumer-driven innovation across the lip and face categories with new technology to continue our on-going ‘skinification’ of makeup.

CEO TENNEALLE O’SHANNESSY TO EXIT ADORE BEAUTY

Following the announcement that Tennealle O’Shannessy, CEO of Adore Beauty, is poised to exit the business early next year, the e-tailer’s shares bounced up and down before stabilising.

As Covid-19 restrictions have eased, Adore Beauty saw a revenue slowdown in its third quarter to $42.7 million - a growth of only 9 per cent.

O’Shannessy became CEO of Adore Beauty in August 2020, following the stepping down of co-founder Kate Morris. Morris is still a director of the company.

Quadrant, a leading private equity firm, bought 60 per cent of Adore Beauty in 2019 and the company launched a highly publicised IPO on the Australian Stock Exchange on October 2020.

Leading analysts predict double-digit CAGR for Adore Beauty over the next five years because of its huge 11,700 product range, customer loyalty and strong online performance. A positive outlook in spite of the fact that the company’s stock has dropped 72 per cent of its value over the past 12 months.

O’Shannessy will remain at the helm until February next year during a global search for her successor.

Her next role will be to helm IDP Education, a global leader in education services which operates in 50 countries.

Marina Go, Chair of Adore Beauty, praised O’Shannessy’s leadership over the past two years, leaving the business wellpositioned for the growth predicted by anlaysts.

2022 PHARMACY ASSISTANT OF THE YEAR STATE FINALISTS ANNOUNCED

The Pharmacy Guild of Australia, National President, Professor Trent Twomey, has announced the 64 state finalists for the 2022 Pharmacy Guild of Australia / Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award (PATY).

“This year we received a record number of nominations, and were blown away by the high-quality nominees,” he said. “Congratulations to the 64 finalists across Australia.”

The state finalists had the opportunity to participate in their respective state workshops, held from August 15 to 26. The workshops provide a unique professional development opportunity for finalists.

Following participation in the state workshops, a winner will be selected to represent each state and territory.

“The foundations of our long-term growth strategy are now in place with our mobile app, loyalty program, and first ‘owned brand’ all launched and scaling strongly in a market benefiting from the structural shift to e-commerce, which has seen us increase our active customer base by 90 per cent in two years,” she added.

The state winners will then go on to participate in the face-to-face national workshop held on Thursday, October 27, at the Pharmacy Assistant National Conference in Brisbane.

For the first time in two years, due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the 2022 PATY Award and Glucojel Super Star Award will be

announced in person during the Conference Dinner at the Pharmacy Assistant National Conference on Saturday, October 29.

“I wish all finalists the best for the upcoming workshops and look forward to the announcement of the state winners later this month,” Professor Twomey said.

The Pharmacy Guild of Australia, National President, Professor Trent Twomey.

PATY 2021 National Winner Ashleigh Hutson from Bardens Amcal Pharmacy in the Northern Territory.

is developed by experienced midwives and pharmacists, gently helping mums prepare for the birth of baby and beyond. All ingredients are specifically adjusted to the particular needs during pregnancy, as well as for the birth preparation and breastfeeding time.

ULTRA VIOLETTE INTENSIFIES GLOBAL EXPANSION

One of the main reasons many people don’t apply sunscreen as regularly as they should is because they don’t like the texture of many products.

In early 2019, Melbourne entrepreneurs, Ava Matthews and Rebecca Jefferd, launched Ultra Violette. A game-changing range of nextgeneration, high SPF sunscreens that not only looked good, but also felt great to wear because of a high percentage of skincare ingredients.

The brand’s hero product is Queen Screen. In late 2021 Dream Screen SPF50 Tinted Veil made its debut and became an instant hit as a benchmark tinted moisturiser.

Ultra Violette was launched in Sephora Australia and New Zealand in 2020 and is now the beauty retailer’s #5 best-selling skincare brand. Total sales reached $10 million in 2021.

Last year saw the launch of the brand in the UK through major retailers such as Space NK, Cult Beauty and Net-A-Porter. Ultra Violette also entered the Hong Kong market via upmarket department stores Lane Crawford and Joyce. Europe and Southeast Asia are the twin targets this year. In April, selected Ultra Violette products rolled out in 14 markets, including France and Germany, through Sephora online and the entire range will follow suit in-store by next year.

Following its success in Hong Kong, Ultra Violette is now available online and in 40 Sephora stores in five Southeast Asian markets, including Malaysia.

Our ultimate goal is to build a global brand and ensure that customers all over the world can future proof their faces with Ultra Violette, says co-founder Rebecca Jefferd.

“We had this in mind when we first partnered with Sephora ANZ in 2020 and they have been an incredible support in championing our small Aussie brand and sharing our success with their European and southeast Asian counterparts.

“Sephora and the broader LVMH team have been an incredible supporter of local brands, and we are thrilled to be expanding within their network as the number one prestige beauty retailer globally.” Ultra Violette is available through its own dedicated website – www.ultraviolette.com.au – Sephora, Adore Beauty and The Iconic.

AUSTRALIAN ONLINE PERFUME AND COSMETICS SALES REACH $2 BILLION

A week is a long time in love, war and politics. The timeframe may be longer when the topic is e-commerce, but the speed of market growth in online sales of perfume and cosmetics in Australia has been stratospheric.

Ten years ago, online perfume and cosmetics sales in Australia reached $353.9 million, reports IBISWorld. By the time the Covid-19

pandemic arrived at the beginning of 2020 e-commerce sales in the category had ballooned to $1.529 billion.

A growth rate of 17.8 per cent year-on-year over the past five years has fast-tracked the sector to $2 billion this year, reveals the international market research data firm.

To put things in an even more upbeat perspective, the boom in online perfume and cosmetic sales has outpaced the general retail category, says IBISWorld.

The sector is heavily skewed towards female consumers and more than 2425 online businesses offer fragrance, personal care and beauty products.

The largest pure-play beauty retailer in Australia is Adore Beauty. But major players such as Chemist Warehouse, Priceline and the leading department stores have dynamically increased their online offerings to boost their credentials as omnichannel retailers in the category.

It’s the same story in the US, says IBISWorld. The US online perfume and cosmetics market is expanding rapidly at an annualised rate of 6.7 per cent to reach US$16 billion by the end of the year.

A stat that is of major interest to Australian beauty brands looking to establish an online presence in the US, rather that opt for the more expensive on-shelf route in US bricks and mortar stores.

Ultra Violette founders Rebecca Jefferd and Ava Chandler-Matthews.

PROTECTED, RIGHT FROM THE START.

Calendula Baby Care

Natural baby care you can trust. The Weleda baby Calendula range nourishes and protects baby’s delicate skin right from the start. With precious extracts of handpicked organic calendula, it supports the skin’s healthy development, wrapping baby in a layer of tender loving care.

YOU ARE NATURE.

HONG KONG’S LARGEST BEAUTY RETAILER TO TARGET AUSTRALIA

Sa Sa International, the number one beauty specialist in Hong Kong, has a long and successful history. Founded in 1978 by Simon Kwok Siu-ming, the cosmetics empire boasts over 270 stores selling 17,000 products from 600 brands plus its own brand ranges.

In 2015, Forbes, the prestigious financial media company, named Sa Sa as one of “Asia’s 200 Best Under a Billion” companies

It was also the first retailer to launch Japanese and South Korean beauty brands in Hong Kong. Sasa.com, the company’s online division, debuted in 2000 and Sa Sa also has partnerships with the two Chinese e-commerce giants, Alibaba’s Tmall and JD.com.

The Covid-19 pandemic hit Sa Sa hard. Visitors from mainland China accounted for 70 per cent of its sales in Hong Kong and Macau. The company also came under pressure when Sephora re-entered the Hong Kong market in 2019.

Sa Sa has revamped its online store and is targeting expansion in Australia, Malaysia, Europe and North America. According to the company, online sales surged 89.3 per cent in the year to March this year to US$23.2 million.

Sa Sa has been actively pursuing an OMO (offline-merge-online) strategy over the past few years in a bid to boost its local and crossborder sales through borderless marketing.

The company will focus first on its online business in Malaysia, where it has 72 outlets.

According to a financial statement - “The group will continue to increase its online investment, actively expand online sales channels in different regions, and strive to build the brand effect of its exclusive products. Through the integration of physical stores and online platforms, it will move towards a more comprehensive OMO operation model.”

SWEDISH HEALTH MAJOR ACQUIRES AUSSIE BRAND MODIBODI FOR $140 MILLION

The leakproof underwear market has exploded in recent years. Modibodi, the leading Aussie contender in the sector, is also an international player in the surging market with annual sales of $56.7 million in 2021.

Launched in 2013 by Kristy Chong, Modibodi markets its products mainly through a DTC business model and a growing number of retailers including The Iconic, Coles and Big W. Essity, the Swedish hygiene and health company, has acquired Modibodi in a deal worth $140 million. The acquisition values the brand at an optimistic 24 times EBITDA because of its 18 per cent annual growth rate.

Essity has plenty of skin in the leakproof underwear and feminine hygiene game with its strong portfolio of brands, including Libresse, Bodyform, TOM Organic and TENA. In a one-two move, the Swedish mover-and-shaker also bought an 80 per cent stake in Canadian company, Knix Wear, last week, which was recently named the sixth fastest growing company in Canada.

I am proud of all we have created at Modibodi over the past nine years and pleased that Modibodi is joining Essity, says Kristy Chong. “As a global leader in hygiene and health, Essity can provide the expertise and capital to take the brand forward during its next phase of growth, and achieve even greater impact.”

The acquisition of Modibodi strengthens Essity’s position in leakproof apparel and enables faster growth within better-for-you, better-for-the-planet solutions,” adds Magnus Groth, CEO of Essity.

“Modibodi has the qualities we are looking for with leading market positions, strong brand and sustainability credentials, as well as excellent digital marketing and e-commerce capabilities.”

Sa Sa founders Eleanor Kwok and her husband Simon Kwok Siu-ming.

Atoderm

AUSTRALIANS PREFER BRANDS COMMITTED TO REDUCING USE OF PLASTIC

The beauty business has been a prime mover in introducing initiatives to reduce its use of plastic packaging for some time. A strategy that has been pursued by major multinationals such as L’Oréal and organic Australian brands such as Inika alike.

A sustained move towards sustainability that is certainly striking a chord with Australian consumers reveals recent research from the Australian Retailers Association (ARA) in collaboration with the Queensland University of Technology (QUT).

Plastic reduction programs top the list of the five leading environmental and social concerns important to Australian consumers. Such steps forward increase customer loyalty and trust and promote more positivity towards brands and retailers than store-wide discounts, notes the study.

The attitudes of respondents is in sync with further government bans on single use plastics, introduced on July 1. Western Australia, for example, has banned several items including single use cutlery, stirrers and straws and the ACT has prohibited the use of plastic straws and cotton buds with plastic sticks.

Consumers have spoken, says Paul Zahra, CEO of the ARA. “They want to see action on plastics given their unacceptable impact on the natural environment, and they are going to be drawn to the brands that are showing leadership on this front compared to those who are dragging the chain.”

Sustainability and climate action are a critical focus for the retail industry, he adds. “The ARA is committed to supporting the sector through initiatives like our Net-Zero Roadmap in the transition to the low carbon, circular economy of the future.”

KATE GILDEA PROMOTED TO ENTERPRISE MARKETING & DATA DIRECTOR AT ESTÉE LAUDER ANZ

Kate Gildea first joined The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) in 2013 as Communications Manager for Estee Lauder and Tom Ford Beauty. But the widely-respected executive has enjoyed a stellar career in the Australian beauty industry, including senior positions at Coty, ModelCo, Parfums Christian Dior and Cosmax.

The alum of University of Queensland Business School, also helped to launch the Aerin Beauty brand in Australia. In 2018, Gildea graduated from the Google Squared Plus Digital Marketing Program. Two years later, she was granted an ELC S-HERO Award, which recognises exceptional female talent in the company’s Asia/Pacific region.

Gildea has been promoted to Enterprise Marketing & Data Director ANZ. She succeeds Carolyn Scott in the role, who built up considerable industry cred during her 23 years with the multinational.

Gildea now reports directly to Emmerentia Wilding, Managing Director ANZ, and serves on ELC ANZ’s Executive Leadership Team.

Kate’s career story is an inspiring one, adds Wilding. “It demonstrates the power of putting one’s hand up to tackle opportunities when they present themselves. I look forward to watching her continue to go from strength to strength.”

Following her initial role at ELC ANZ, Gildea became the Corporate Media Marketing and Communications Lead as part of the Enterprise Marketing & Data Team in 2017. She was instrumental in the development of best-practice media strategies across Australia and New Zealand, collaborating closely with agency partners to drive the company’s digital transformation.

Gildea now oversees Media, Consumer Insights & Strategy, CRM, Creative and Corporate Communications.

She has also built up a strong reputation in every position she has held and credits the influence of inspiring mentors throughout her career. Committed to the education and mentorship of future leaders, Gildea is the ID & E Lead for ELC ANZ and a member of its Reverse Mentor Program.

Kate Gildea

Emmerentia Wilding

Paul Zahra, CEO of the Australian Retailers Association.

AUGUSTINUS BADER TAPS BOBBI BROWN AS CHIEF CREATIVE ADVISOR

Augustinus Bader became a household name when a laundry list of the world’s A-listers gave the thumbs-up to his anti-ageing skincare range. We’re talking the likes of Jennifer Aniston, Victoria Beckham, Kim Kardashian, Priyanka Chopra and Hailey Bieber.

The German-born professor is one of the world’s leading scientific minds and is an expert in stem cell biology research. In 2018, the Augustinus Bader Skincare brand was launched with two hero products - The Cream and The Rich Cream. Both contain the patented TFC8 (Trigger Factor Complex) technology, which supercharges the skin’s natural repair processes.

When the subject is makeup, Bobbi Brown is as influential in her field as Dr Bader is in skincare. She has been appointed Chief Creative Advisor to the Augustinus Bader Skincare brand.

One of the world’s most feted makeup artists, Brown sold her namesake brand to Estée Lauder in 1995. In 2016, she exited the brand to concentrate on the next chapter of her working life and emphasise inner beauty through food, lifestyle and skincare. In 2020, she founded a new DTC brand called Jones Road, which is dedicated to the minimalist makeup aesthetic she pioneered and cruelty-free products.

Brown’s new role with Augustinus Bader will focus on creative and product development, educational programs, promotional activations and major events.

I’m thrilled to make my long-standing obsession with Augustinus Bader official as a creative advisor, says Brown.

“Having been a devotee of Professor Bader’s TFC8 technology and ground-breaking approach to skincare since I was first introduced to The Rich Cream three years ago, I am really excited to partner with his team to continue innovating the future of beauty and wellness.”

Bobbi Brown is not only a celebrated industry expert but a forward-thinking entrepreneur who has, over the past several decades, played a major role in shaping culture, adds Charles Rosier, CEO of Augustinus Bader. “We feel deeply aligned in our dedication to healing, inspiring, and evolving the way we take care of our skin and ourselves.”

Augustinus Bader products are available on www.augustinusbader.com/au/skincare and leading clinics and e-tailers.

PRESTIGE BEAUTY SALES REACH

BILLION AS IN-STORE SALES OUTPACE E-COMMERCE

As life returns to normal in the US, prestige beauty sales surged 16 per cent in the second quarter to reach US$6 billion, reports The NPD Group.

Makeup was a big winner with revenues rising 18 per cent to US$2 billion. Lip products had the fastest growth rate in the category of 28 per cent.

Upmarket fragrances also continued their climb back with sales growth of 13 per cent over the period to US$1.5 billion.

The continued popularity of skincare featuring vitamin C and retinol boosted sales in the sector by 12 per cent to US$1.7 billion.

Prestige haircare remained a hot favourite during Q2, posting growth of 24 per cent to US$781 million.

In addition to its strong revenue growth, beauty is the only industry with rising unit sales so far this year across the 14 discretionary retail industries tracked by NPD in the US - a testament to its resilience considering the beauty industry reverted to 2015 sales levels in 2020, says Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor, The NPD Group.

“Premiumisation is happening among the three categories performing the best; while fragrance and hair’s average prices are up due to consumer spending on higher-price, luxury items.”

But as more US consumers return to shopping in-store, online sales of prestige beauty products have taken a dive. According to a new report from software major 1010data - the 2022 E-Commerce Beauty Spotlight - the US, the largest beauty market in the world, saw a 14 per cent decline in online prestige beauty sales this year.

But the drop is only relative. Online prestige beauty sales are still up by contrast to pre-pandemic levels and premium beauty merchants in the US enjoyed revenues of US$3 billion over the past 12 months.

One key to success in 2022 and beyond will be for retailers to focus on their in-store presence and online education and marketing to meet their customers where they want to be, notes Jonah Ellin, chief product officer for 1010data.

Bobbi Brown

Professor

Augustinus Bader

BIGGEST EARNING US BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE COMPANIES FOR 2021

Like fashion, beauty and personal care is ruled by only a small number of countries when it comes to best-selling international brands. The US and France are the Big Two with South Korea and Germany bringing up the rear.

2021 was a tumultuous year worldwide, but the beauty and personal care industry continued to be a bright spot with worldwide sales rising to UD$715 billion.

Here are the top 15 US players and their global sales last year.

1. Procter & Gamble - US$57 Billion - Key Brands - Olay, Gillette, Head & Shoulders, Pantene and SK-II

2. Estée Lauder - US$16.2 Billion - Key Brands - Estée Lauder, Clinique, M.A.C, Jo Malone

3. Colgate-Palmolive - US$14.1 Billion - Key Brands - Colgate, Palmolive Naturals, Tom’s of Maine, Filorga and Elta MD Skincare.

4. Bath & Body Works - US$7.9 billion

5. Johnson & Johnson - US$7.7 billion - Key Brands - Aveeno, Neutrogena, OGX, Clean & Clear

6. Church & Dwight - US$4.8 billion - Key Brands - Nair, Batiste, Viviscal and Toppik

7. Coty - US$4.6 billion - Key Brands - Rimmel, Covergirl, Clairol, Kylie Skin and fragrance licenses including Gucci and Marc Jacobs

8. Clorox - US$4.1 Billion - Key Brand - Burt’s Bees

9. Amway - US$43.5 Billion - Key Brands - Artistry skincare and Satinique haircare.

10. Mary Kay - US$2.8 billion

11. Young Living - US$2.2 billion - Key Products - essential oils and diffusers

12. Revlon - US$2 billion - Key Brands - Revlon, Elizabeth Arden and Almay

13. Nu Skin - US$1.6 billion

14. Rodan + Fields - US$1.5 billion

15. Jeunesse - US$1.3 billion

JULIANNE MOORE TAPPED AS NEW AMBASSADOR FOR HOURGLASS COSMETICS

Over the past decade there has been a noticeable increase in older celebrities fronting beauty campaigns. Think Helen Mirren, Jane Fonda and Celine Dion for L’Oréal and Ellen DeGeneres and Queen Latifah for Covergirl.

This year, Nicole Kidman teamed with US haircare brand, Vegamour, as spokesperson and investor. While Sarah Jessica Parker collaborated with RoC Skincare to launch a limited edition of her favourite anti-ageing products from the brand.

Julianne Moore continues the trend with a one-year deal with Hourglass Cosmetics. The 61-year-old will be fronting the brand’s latest “We Glow” campaign which debuts its new launch - Ambient Soft Glow Foundation.

Moore is only the second ambassador for Hourglass, following in the footsteps of supermodel Rose Huntington-Whiteley. Her 20-year-old daughter, Liv Freundlich, will also appear in the campaign and there are four other “connected duos”, including Twyla Tharp, the legendary dancer and choreographer, and her mentee, Destiny Wimpye.

Our culture is often focused on outer beauty and trying to combat ageing, says Moore. “I appreciate the refreshing appeal of this campaign in showing that beauty also comes from within, and from relationships we share.”

The new Ambient Soft Glow Foundation contains white tea extract and Vitamin E. Boasting 16 hour wear and imperfectionblurring ingredients, it is available in 32 shades.

Hourglass Cosmetics was founded in 2004 as a cruelty-free luxury brand by Carisa Janes, a veteran of Urban Decay. It was acquired by Unilever in 2017 and became the first colour cosmetics brand in the multinational’s Prestige division, alongside Dermalogica, Murad, REN and Living Proof.

The brand is sold in more than 1000 doors worldwide, including Sephora, Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman and Mecca in Australia.

Hourglass became completely vegan in 2020. Hero products include Arch Brow Volumising Fiber Gel, Veil Mineral Primer and Ambient Lighting Powder.

Julianne Moore and her daughter Liv Freundlich.

GEN Z CONSUMERS LOOKING TO PRESTIGE HAIRCARE

Hair care sales surged during the Covid-19 pandemic worldwide as professional hair salons were shuttered in leading markets and consumers had more time for DIY treatments.

The skinification of hair boom is set to continue, says The NPD Group. The data tracker predicts that haircare sales in the US, the world’s largest single beauty market, will surge by 14 per cent over the next 12 months and global revenues will double by 2024.

Major markets super-charging the international haircare market include the US, Germany, India and China. L’Oréal Professional Products division, for example, posted Q1 2022 sales of US$1.04 billion and Olaplex estimates its 2022 net sales will exceed US$800 million - up from US$598 million last year.

Older Gen Z consumers aged 18 to 24 have become a major force in the haircare market, says NPD. Their favourite products - apart from shampoo and conditioner - are hair spray, leave-in treatments, hair oils and serums.

In the US, more than 33 per cent of Gen Zers use hair masks regularly, by contrast

to 18 per cent of overall hair product users. More than 50 per cent purchased a hair treatment in the past six months and 54 per cent plan to buy one over the next six months.

Younger US consumers have a similar profile to Australians of the same age and NPD fingers the following five prestige haircare brands they are most interested in buying:

• Olaplex

• Aveda

• Living Proof

• Devacurl

• Bumble & bumble

The top five more reasonably priced brands - with the exception of red hot contender Olaplex - are:

• Dove

• Aussie Hair

• L’Oréal Paris

• Olaplex

• Tresemme

GLOBAL NATURAL BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE MARKET WORTH US$12.5 BILLION

Global sales of natural beauty and personal care products rose 5.4 per cent in 2021 to reach US$12.5 billion, reports Ecovia Intelligence. But the UK-based specialist researcher warns that 2022 may deliver slower growth because of a surge in raw material prices, rising inflation and economic uncertainty.

North America and Europe remain the largest regional markets for natural and organic beauty and personal care products. But the Asia/Pacific region has the highest growth rate.

High investment is coming into the Asian natural and organic products market with large cosmetic firms launching their own lines, whilst the financial community is investing in established brands, says Ecovia COSMOS and Natrue remain the gold standards of natural and organic

certification. More than 40,000 natural beauty and personal care products worldwide are certified by the Big Two Europe-based organisations. But there are now more than 30 standards worldwide, notes the researcher.

L’Oréal and Unilever are the top multinationals in the natural and organic personal care market, either releasing new products from established brands such as Garnier and Kiehl’s, or acquiring new brands in the sector such as Thayers Natural Remedies and Youth to the People.

Debuting natural and organic versions of bestsellers is another strategy fuelling the market. Colgate-Palmolive, for example, launched its first COSMOS-certified vegan toothpaste in 100 per cent recyclable plastic tubes in Australia in 2021. Hailed as an industry first, the product’s HDPE materials are based on the same plastic used to make 2 litre milk bottles and other recycled plastic containers.

Omnichannel distribution has been a major driver of growth in the natural and organic personal care market, says Ecovia. The category has long moved away from

traditional sales channels such as health and organic food shops in nearly all major markets, even though they remain important in North America and Europe. The sector is well-established in department stores, specialist beauty retailers and pharmacies.

During the Covid-19 pandemic e-commerce and digital marketing have boosted sales and have become increasingly important channels in Australia and worldwide.

newest cult-favourite skin care brand.

S kin Control, owned by Australian Therapeutic Supplies, is Australia’s fastest growing new acne care brand. The products are cruelty-free and vegan-friendly, and made using natural ingredients where possible so they can be used on all skin types.

The range is made up of innovative skin care solutions that are, affordable, effective and unique, and provide a natural alternative to other products currently in the market.

“We sourced inspiration from high-end luxury skin care brands and adapted them to suit the local masstige market, whilst not compromising on quality,” Michael says.

“The feedback we’ve received from people who’ve used our products has been incredible. This helps explain why these products have been so successful in Australia and New Zealand’s major pharmacy and grocery retailers.”

Michael says helping clear the skin of Australia’s youth with innovative skincare solutions that are unique and affordable is one of the most rewarding parts of the job.

“Every day we receive messages from people who’ve used our products, telling us how much they love them and how we’ve helped them to regain their confidence,” he says.

“This motivates us to keep working hard to constantly improve and find new products which can address the needs of our shoppers. We’re building a skin-positive movement and want to help people

skin solutions Clear

Growing up, Michael Porter experienced acne and found that a lot of the mainstream brands on the market would inflame it further or were simply unaffordable. “There was no quick fix that would help improve the appearance of my blemishes. Everything at the time was either too expensive or in-effective,” Michael says. “This is what drove us to help find a solution for young people, which is both affordable and actually works.” Cue the launch of Skin Control.

feel empowered about their skin, knowing its normal to have a blemish and that’s part of life. We understand that when it comes to good skin it’s all about progress not perfection, so our range includes products that are both a ‘quick fix’ and others which can be added into your skin care routine to help with ongoing issues.”

Skin Control offers high quality products which are accessible to everyone and actually work.

“We’re unpretentious and want to help everyone on their clear skin journey. We understand that in these challenging financial times, our customers don’t want to be stressed about the affordability of our products, so we’re priced at a level which is inclusive for everyone, whilst still offering a high margin to retailers. To further help, we offer a range of bundle packs where you can make further savings when purchasing multiple items.”

Using real people with real skin struggles has been paramount to the brand’s success so early on, Michael says.

“We try to work with influencers and models from diverse backgrounds who’ve had struggles with managing their own skin, to ensure that our message resonates. Two of our biggest advocates are ex-Victoria’s Secret Angel Bridget Malcolm and former Married at First Sight star and skin care queen Martha Kalifatidis. A lot of our inspiration comes from our customers who want to breakup with breakouts, they’re very forthcoming about what they want to see next – so we aim to deliver on it every time.”

THE RANGE

Pimple Patch AM

Contains 24 ultra-thin, chemical free patches, to not only help conceal the pimple, but also allow for makeup to be applied over the top of it. Acting as a second skin it maintains optimal conditions in a moist healing environment. The natural acne treatment, absorbs puss and pore fluid whilst reducing redness, scabbing, and scarring. Made with essential oils.

Pimple Patch PM

This #1 seller, contains 24 patches in multiple sizes, for optimal coverage. The thicker pads stay in place and are perfect for overnight wear. For use on sensitive skin. Made with hydrocolloid and tea tree.

Pimple Patch XL

Contains 12 extra-large patches, perfect for larger breakouts or a cluster of pimples. Can be used on the face, neck, chest & back. Hypo allergenic for use on sensitive skin. Patches can be cut to size. Made with tea tree.

Blemish Banish

A small bottle with a big impact. This fast-acting, spot drying solution is an alternative treatment to pimple creams and lotions. Using natural antiseptic ingredients, helps combat surface blemishes, drying them out overnight. Suitable for all skin types. Made with calamine, tea tree oil and salicylic acid.

Breakout Bar

Perfect for acne prone and oily skin. Specially formulated with a combination of salicylic acid, activated charcoal & tea tree. This magic trio of ingredients works to draw out impurities from the skin, leaving it fresh, clear and nourished.

Blackhead Blaster Teatree

A clever innovation to come out of the Korean beauty industry is a new alternative to traditional pore strips. The 3-Step Kit removes blackheads gently and safely. It opens pores, removes the impurities then closes them again. For use on sensitive skin. Made with tea tree.

Anti-Acne Mist

A soothing spritz to hydrate, refresh and calm acne-prone skin. Formulated to help combat surface blemishes, this is the perfect pick me up for stressed skin. Dermatologically tested. Suitable for all skin types. Made with tea tree oil, salicylic acid & witch hazel.

Peel Pads

Accelerate cellular turnover, clear out pores and remove dull surface cells. These clever little exfoliating discs are soaked in a gentle solution that works to refine and resurface the skin, whilst reducing the incidence of breakouts. Simple and fast, these will leave an immediate glow and maintain a healthy and happy complexion over time. Made with salicylic, glycolic, and hyaluronic acids.

Pimple Patch Micro Dart

Perfect to treat and protect early stage, under-the-skin spots. The fast acting, microscopic dart technology, gently penetrates key ingredients into the skin whilst protecting and cleansing the pimple. Made from salicylic acid, tea tree and cica.. ■

TO LEARN MORE

If you’re interested in hearing more about our cuttingedge brand, or becoming a potential stockist, contact Skin Control at www.skincontrol.com.au/contact-us

from the Naturally Good Expo Hot Products

Wotnot Naturals

Anti-aging, SPF 40, BB Cream is the ultimate multi-tasker. This hero product gives flawless coverage, hydrates and nourishes leaving skin feeling silky smooth, luminous and protected from the sun’s harmful rays. Key ingredients, plant collagen and green tea extract, deeply moisturise , helping to even out the complexion. Specifically formulated for sensitive skin, it is lightweight and non-greasy, toxin free, reef-safe and 100% natural. info@wotnot.com.au www.wotnot.com.au

Mimi Kids Haircare

Better, safer and easier, MIMI takes the stress out of caring for kids’ hair. 100% natural ingredients, scientifically formulated and made in Australia. MIMI teaches kids how to care for their hair in three easy steps. The results; are healthier hair, happier kids and less stressed parents!

Why Is Washing Kids’ Hair So Stressful?

Good news. Kids aren’t the problem; shampoo is! Biologically, kids have finer/ drier hair with thinner, more sensitive scalps. Synthetic detergents commonly found in shampoo are too harsh on kids’ hair, stripping away natural oils while irritating scalps and eyes. It’s no wonder, kids hate washing their hair! hello@mimihaircare.com.au www.mimihaircare.com.au

The Herb Farm

“It all began, 30 years ago, with a love of nature and a curiosity about its potency… Lynn, our founder, was fascinated with herbal remedies and their ability to positively impact health and wellbeing. This led her to create The Herb Farm – a company that celebrates the natural therapeutic qualities of herbs and fuses the power of nature with traditional knowledge to bring a new skincare vision to life; the creation of beautiful, powerful, all-natural treatments that feel like healthy food to hungry skin. We believe that our outer beauty reflects our inner well-being and that it all starts with growing our confidence and connection; being at peace with ourselves and the world around us. Enhancing natural beauty with simple, natural and ethically produced products, The Herb Farm makes conscious, natural, therapeutic skincare so that people can feel confident in their beauty. We bring skincare back to its roots.” info@theherbfarm.com.au www.theherbfarm.com.au

Pod Organics

Brings you a range of uniquely formulated, bespoke skincare and self-care essentials that are clean, natural and created with a conscience for pregnancy, newborn and beyond. We pride ourselves in creating a range of bespoke products that are Lavender free, vegan and 100% organic and natural. Each product is designed to bring joy and luxury to everyday essentials, while soothing and calming the most sensitive and delicate skin. Only the most pure and natural ingredients are used to bring you and your little ones skincare that blends nutrient rich botanicals chosen for their antioxidant, healing and restorative abilities.

enquiries@podorganics.com.au www.podorganics.com.au

Alcapoc Natural Skincare

Boutique clean beauty brand, Alcapoc Natural Skincare was launched by Dickson Lam in November 2021 after 5 years of formulation and development. Seeking to bring humans closer to nature by offering a sensory experience through its natural product range. Alcapoc only uses nature's finest and most effective ingredients from around the world. Alcapoc has a core range of Elixirs and Face Oils that cater to all skincare concerns, formulated for sensitive skin. This brand is already making huge waves in the clean beauty space. Divinity (Elixir of Anti-aging) and Jorá (Face Oil for Oily & Combination Skin) were recently awarded the Beauty ShortList Mama & Baby 'Editor's Choice Award 2022'. Divinity was also a Finalist in The Green Edit 'Best of Australian Beauty Product 2022'. sales@alcapoc.com www.alcapoc.com

Best Multi-Purpose

Guaranteed to simplify any beauty routine.

Hemp Worx Nourishing Beauty Oil - https://hempworx.com.au

Glo Skin Beauty Beta-Clarity Pro 5 Liquid Exfoliant - www.gloskinbeauty.com

Velo Skinwear BB Cream T3 - www.velobeauty.com

Ultra Violette Queen Screen SPF 50+ - https://ultraviolette.com.au

MCoBeauty Cheek & Lip Tint in Tango - https://mcobeauty.com

The Jojoba Company Jojoba & Enzyme Radiance Mask - https://thejojobacompany.com.au

Skin Physics Caffeine + Multi Benefit Eye Serum - https://skinphysics.com.au

The Herb Farm Restoring Ginkgo Eye Cream - https://theherbfarm.com.au

Bioderma Sensibio H2O Eye Bi-phase Makeup Remover - www.bioderma.com.au

Natio Blush and Bronze Palette in Sun Kissed - www.natio.com.au

Trinny London Lip2Cheek in Pia - https://trinnylondon.com

Runway Room Peach Punch Mineral Cream Stick – www.runwayroom.com Weleda Skin Food - www.weleda.com.au

Elementa Hyaluronic Acid Solution 2% - https://elementabeauty.com.au

Grown Alchemist Tinted Age-Repair Lip Treatment (swatched) - https://grownalchemist.com

Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.

Beauty Products

Sensibio H2O eye

5 MINUTES WITH...

Macpherson Elle

Age-defying supermodel-turned-entrepreneur Elle Macpherson started WelleCo in 2014 as a natural evolution of her own wellness journey. ‘The Body’ sits down with Michelle Ruzzene to reflect on the challenges and benefits of building a business when you are your own boss and brand.

YOU HAVE BEEN DESCRIBED AS AN “ACCIDENTAL” ENTREPRENEUR – IS THIS TRUE?

I wouldn’t describe myself an accidental entrepreneur - there are no accidents in life. I’ve always had an interest in business, and I was motivated in the beginning to be financially independent and free. I tend to use my heart as a compass and have a ‘give-it-a-go’ philosophy. This has always enabled me to recognise opportunities that come to me and benefit from their potential.

HOW DID YOU GO FROM SUPERMODEL TO SUPER BUSINESS MOGUL?

I started licensing my name and image in 1989 to enrich my brand and it became my business model – excuse the pun. I started off modelling as a job. It became a career, and with that career, I built a brand. And with that brand, I applied that to other people’s businesses and brands through licensing. Today, I’ve evolved, and I

no longer license my name, preferring to create my own business, as I did with WelleCo. I’m a shareholder, Creative Director and I sit on the board. WelleCo is a business created as a result of my own personal wellness journey.

YOU TRADEMARKED YOUR NAME IN 1994, FOUNDING ELLE MACPHERSON INC.

In 1989, I was approached by a New Zealand based company to promote their lingerie. I chose an unconventional strategy — a licensing arrangement bearing my name with designs that I could co-create with them. Elle Macpherson Intimates was born and became a great success. While commonplace today, this idea was unorthodox at the time. In 2005, I again expanded my brand with the creation of Elle Macpherson The Body products, partnering with Boots Alliance. The bath and body line were distributed through Boots in the UK generating £10 (AUD$17.5) million in retail in its first year.

HOW DID THE IDEA FOR WELLECO COME ABOUT?

WelleCo was born in 2014 as a natural evolution of my own wellness journey. I had begun to notice how run down I felt, and my usual host of vitamins and supplements were no longer effective. I was struggling with my sleep, my skin was dry and dull, my hair was brittle, and I felt unmotivated. I didn’t feel like myself that way. I wanted answers, so I sought the advice of Dr Simone Laubscher PhD, a clinical nutritionist and naturopath, at her Harley Street clinic in London. She helped me to better understand my body which, it turned out, was severely inflamed. She blended a custom anti-inflammatory super greens formula for me which later became The Super Elixir. Within weeks, my energy surged back, I felt lighter and leaner, and my skin and digestion improved. It was great!

WHY IS WELLECO SO SUCCESSFUL?

WelleCo is successful because it is based on my real-life personal experience and deep, long-term passion in the subject. A global purpose underpins WelleCo, with strong core values that reflect my own and implementing a meaning and benefit that is bigger than the brand or collection themselves. It also is formulated with extremely high integrity ingredients and the business has a will to deliver the highest quality and most effective benefits without compromise. WelleCo recognised the power that lies in wellness, as well as the link between natural beauty and its expression into the world through being well, a strong benefit which we convey in our beauty-through-wellness message.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO BUDDING BRAND MAKERS?

Identify what you love and give it a purpose bigger than yourself, bigger than just your business aims.

WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO BE?

Be here. Be now. My favourite place to be is wherever I am. It’s not a destination, it’s how you feel in your heart.

WHAT ARE THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOURSELF?

I would say passionate, purposeful, and precise.

HOW DO YOU WIND DOWN AFTER A BUSY DAY?

I love family time to relax and get re-centred in love and laughter. When the day is done, my first priority is to reconnect with loved ones. A real treat for me is when the boys are visiting home in Miami (they are both off on their own adventures now), we love having dinner together and catching up. I relish evening relaxation when I quietly sip my nightly cup of Sleep Welle Calming Tea. That really helps the mind, emotions and body to rest, recover and rejuvenate. It’s a non-negotiable, especially after a full-on day.

WHAT BUSINESS CHALLENGES HAVE YOU ENCOUNTERED ALONG THE WAY?

Many. Thankfully, I always find that it’s the challenges that bring growth and innovation. Business is seldom a smooth road, but if I had to name one challenge, I would have to say it’s been when the outside world around me becomes demanding and intense. That’s when I focus on staying relaxed yet alert so I can follow my own heart as my compass, rather than reacting to what is being demanded of me. It’s those times that I find difficult to stay in touch with my inner self, my values, my truth and self-faith. Stabilising that inner connection means finding stillness in amongst the general fracas and there is the real challenge. I’ve found the best cure is to just focus on one day at a time.

CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?

My career highlight is the present. It’s the now. Working with WelleCo. Being in a business where the purpose is greater than ourselves. It’s about helping people rediscover the beauty within themselves. Beauty is soul deep.

Other highlights include:

• Six Sports Illustrated covers

• Merchandising my own calendars

• Being coined, The Body by Time magazine

• Hosting Saturday Night Live in 1996

• Playing Joey’s girlfriend, Janine Lacroix on Friends in 1999

• Closing the Olympics in 2000

• Entrepreneurial ground-breaking choices such as licensing

• Starting WelleCo in 2014

ONE THING ON YOUR BUCKET LIST?

I actually don’t have a bucket list because I do things as they come up. I don’t save them all up and think ‘one day I will do all of this’. I do things in the flow as opportunities arise. If they resonate with me, I do them in the present.

THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU HAVE EVER RECEIVED?

Trust your inner sense. And create something, destroy nothing - that way you are always in alignment with your own natural creation power.

SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT?

Love. ■

www.welleco.com.au

Identify what you love and give it a purpose bigger than yourself, bigger than just your business aims.

The Immune Elixir, which launched in August. The Super Elixir greens powder.

Clean Natural Beauty

Launched in 2008, Nude by Nature is not only Australian owned, but a major point-of difference has always been the inclusion of the Australian native ingredients, now so much in demand around the world. CEO Mark Thompson sits down with Retail Beauty to share what it takes to become, and remain, the number one mineral makeup brand.

Nude by Nature was certainly a brand ahead of its time? Explain:

We took a very visionary approach from the start as we set out to create cosmetics that weren’t laden with synthetic chemicals and known toxins, launching the first natural mineral foundation and it resonated so well with consumers. Fast forward to today and the natural mineral foundation that we first launched and has remained our hero - we have a brand that consumers now demand based on an ingredient philosophy we’ve held for over a decade.

We’re also incredibly proud that we are Australian owned, especially when so many cosmetic brands were and are multinationals and foreign owned. We know that local resonates with consumers - that sense of community, supporting local business and the quality credentials from Australia is what consumers are seeking - it’s even more important to us all today. We also subscribed to a local made ethos where technically possible, and we produce many of our cosmetics locally, including our dominant market position complexion ranges such as our hero natural mineral powder, as well as our vegan skincare. So, whether you want clean skin, primed skin, flawless coverage or a setting product to finish the look, Nude by Nature has a locally produced product to suit.

You launched with only four products - a mineral powder foundation, a bronzer, a finishing powder and a make-up brush. How many SKUs are there today?

I need to count them up! From one natural mineral cover, we now have a range in almost every make-up segment as well as a 100 per cent clean skincare range. We have over 500 products in cosmetics alone, from our number one mineral powder foundation to our finishing powder, eye, lip and brow ranges. In addition, we have 12 products in our skincare lineup. We are a market leader in make-up brushes, so as a brand this gives us a big footprint and product range developed specifically to suit our cosmetic range. We also extend our range each season with seasonal kits – they are always sought after in pharmacy during the Christmas season.

The mineral powder foundation was made with 100 per cent natural ingredients that was completely free from synthetic chemicals when it was created - is it still the same formula today?

As they say, if it ain’t broke! We’ve always stayed true to our clean ingredients so we find we don’t need to make many changes to our formulas along the way so Natural Mineral Cover is virtually the same today as it was when it was launched.

It still contains natural mineral pigments such as iron oxides without the need for talc or silicones. But we have added Kakadu plum extract, the world’s richest form of vitamin C along with the flexible mesh sifter to eliminate waste and mess as consumers use it.

Are you still Australia’s number one mineral make-up brand? Why?

Yes, we are still the number one mineral makeup brand, in fact, Nude by Nature’s Natural Mineral Cover foundation is the number one selling cosmetic product in pharmacy, one selling every 27 seconds so we continue to grow! It’s amazing to think that this Aussie local brand is now the 5th biggest brand in pharmacy. Foundation is the largest cosmetic category in Australian pharmacy so we are a must stock item given we are the number one selling foundation.

Consumers are using the mineral foundation with our other best sellers to achieve the look.

Nude by Nature launched in New Zealand in 2012. In 2015, you rolled out throughout the UK and Europe, then launched in Canada in early 2018. Where are you stocked today?

We are still stocked in those countries and are consistently increasing ranging. For example, Farmers NZ have recently taken our skincare, Chemist Warehouse NZ are growing significantly, and Superdrug UK are excited by our new brand direction and natural ethos as it resonates with their local shoppers. It’s exciting to see global demand for local brands and Nude by Nature is proudly leading in the charge in these regions.

Tell us about your skincare range, launched in 2021, in the middle of a pandemic? How did Covid-19 impact the launch?

Covid-19 has certainly brought its challenges to the whole beauty industry and we did see some slower sales as consumers stayed indoors. However, there was strong interest in self care during the pandemic so those everyday rituals of skin cleansing and at-home treatments has seen strong consumer reviews for our serums and facial oils, exfoliators and night cream! We have been overwhelmed with the consumer testimonials on our skincare range and we are super excited that consumers are back in store picking up make-up and then purchasing our toxic free skincare products.

What are some of your key ingredients and their benefits?

We use an Australian botanical Bioactive Concentrate which is a 10-plant potent extract, rich in antioxidants. We also use Kakadu plum for its rich vitamin C and antioxidant content found in our moisturising lotion, olive seed powder for exfoliation in our facial scrub –it’s a great

natural alternative to microplastics. We also boost our hydrating serum with both hyaluronic acid and Arct'Alg®, a proprietary marine extract that is clinically proven to increase hydration.

What are some of the biggest misconceptions when it comes to natural beauty?

“Every product that calls out natural is natural!” Consumers assume completely natural when they read those words. However, many brands that claim natural tend to greenwash. When compared to a range of popular pharmacy brands across skincare and cosmetics, Nude by Nature ingredient profile came out 100 per cent clean. Even the ingredients we use to preserve the product is naturally derived. We are always dismayed when brands call out a certain percentage eg: 77 per cent natural. In our language (and agreed by most savvy consumers these days) that’s the same as 23 per cent not natural! There are no sneaky asterisks in our formulas!

What’s next for Nude by Nature?

We are excited about our refreshed brand visual identity rolling out now! We started off as a maverick in the beauty industry, shaking things up with the first to market mineral foundation- a natural product in a sea of non-natural chemical cosmetics. So, we have been looking back to go forward- bringing back some of that maverick, sassy attitude to our brand and communicating clean in a new way to resonate with a new gen who demand what we have to offer. We are also super excited about the rapid growth of sustainable products, and we are on a journey like others with several exciting initiatives in this space underway- holding ourselves true to the concept of clean. We are the O.G of clean beauty and we intend on staying that way! ■

www.nudebynature.com.au/pages/clean-natural-beauty

made

Meet pharmacy’s O.G. of clean cosmetics

In 2008 there was plenty of junk going on inside beauty bags. In response, Nude by Nature developed a mineral powder foundation made with 100% natural ingredients, completely free from synthetic chemicals.

Its mineral foundation quickly became a cult staple as Australia’s #1 selling cosmetic product, tapping into the clean beauty trend that’s even more relevant today.

IF IT’S HALF CLEAN WE’RE HALF INTERESTED

Australian owned Nude by Nature have nothing nasty and nothing to hide in their cosmetic, brushes and skincare range. Just 100% clean, 100% natural ingredients with high performing actives that actually work.

They keep out unnecessary chemicals, synthetic ingredients and toxins and keep in potent botanical extracts and naturally derived ingredients that deliver amazing results. They’re proudly cruelty-free, not tested on animals and PETA-certified.

A must have brand in Pharmacy.

NUDE BY NATURE VEGAN SKINCARE

Clinically and dermatologist tested skincare is a recent addition to Nude by Nature and boasts strong consumer reviews online.

A core range of top sellers plus trending category serum and facial oils, the range is Australian made, vegan and its packaging comprises cartons made from FSC certified board and is recyclable.

formulas clean results clean conscience

No sneaky asterisks in Nude by Nature’s ingredient list. Just 100% clean, 100% natural ingredients without toxic chemicals and synthetics - free from gunk you don’t need.

Nude by Nature select the right natural ingredients and only use what’s potent and proven to do the job. High performance ingredients that work with your skin to deliver results.

Nude by Nature don’t test their products on animals or sell in countries that do. They’re proudly cruelty-free, PETA certified and committed to doing right for people and the planet.

MOISTURE SHINE LIPSTICK

ABSOLUTE VOLUMISING MASCARA

by Nature is a must-have staple in Australia’s dynamic Cosmetics category with one

by Nature product sold every 27 seconds!

Disrupting, Space Efficient Display

Nude by Nature has a range of display units for pharmacy, featuring top selling products including the iconic Natural Mineral Cover foundation, Finishing Powder, Australia’s Only 100% Natural Volumising Mascara and award-winning make-up brushes.

Nude

Nude by Nature’s

free range is loved by those with sensitive skin, and reading their

its five-star praise for the gentle formulations.

“Customers seek pharmacy expertise for products that help their skin - whether that be skincare or clean cosmetics. We make sure that our ingredient ethos remains true to clean; no talc in our mineral foundation, coal tar in our mascara or carmine in our lip range” explains Megha Chandan, Head of Product Development. “We don’t compromise on our clean formulations, so when people buy Nude by Nature they’re getting very high-quality products at affordable prices and the peace of mind that they’re not sacrificing natural, clean or toxin free”.

“We don’t compromise on our clean formulations...”

Making scents of spring

This season’s best new fine fragrances.

Purple Suede Goldfield &

BDK Parfums

Australia - www.goldfieldandbanks.com

www.inessence.com.au

- www.gucci.com

www.jomalone.com.au

www.jeanpaulgaultier.com

- www.libertineparfumerie.com.au

Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.

Carolina Herrera Bad Boy Cobalt EDP - www.puig.com P. Frapin 1270 Extreme - www.libertineparfumerie.com.au

Clarins Aroma Eau Extraordinaire Treatment Fragrance - www.clarins.com.au

The Scent Of Peace Natural Bond No 9 - www.libertineparfumerie.com.au Trudon Belles Matières Reggio Diffuser  - https://trudon.com.au

Ella by Megan Potter EDP - www.meganpotter.com.au

he latest reference book by Fragrances of the World founder Michael Edwards is now available. The new edition lists almost 5000 launches from 2020 + 2021. Often referred to as ‘the fragrance bible,’ the Fragrances of the World reference book remains the most comprehensive and accurate record of fragrance history in existence and an essential training guide for Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Wheel and classification system.

The book’s format follows previous editions with fragrances listed according to their classification in one of the 14 fragrance families. Within each family, fragrances are ordered by note and subnote. The book also has a fragrance index and a brand index. The simplicity of it is genius. When Michael Edwards created his first reference book in 1984, he understood that the fragrance

families held the key to people’s likes and dislikes.

“Perfume fascinates people, but it can also frustrate them because brands and perfumers each describe their fragrances differently. The reality is that if you ask people for the names of their three or four favourite fragrances, almost invariably, you are going to find that at least two of those fragrances belong to the same fragrance family.”

The reference book is an invaluable guide that recommends fragrances based on the fragrance families. A unique feature of this edition is a pictorial genealogy with noteworthy and iconic fragrances of each family. In this issue, we present the Floral family, and the Retail Beauty website displays the full list

The fragrance Bible T

of iconic and noteworthy fragrances for the Floral group.

This edition is the first in a new series of Fragrances of the World reference books. As the number of new launches continues to grow exponentially, it has become impossible to list a complete history of fragrances in one book. To give some indication of size, the Fragrances of the World database holds information on over 44,000 fragrances. Going forward, each reference book will list the fragrances launched during the two previous years. Collectors will be able to build a complete library of reference books; a systematic record of fragrance launches over time. ■

www.fragrancesoftheworld.com to purchase your copy today. Retail Beauty subscribers receive a 20% discount on books with the promo code FOTW20.

The perfume expert’s largest independent guide to fragrance classification.

Michael Edwards

loral

Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Wheel holds the key to everyone’s likes and dislikes with a classification system so innovative it had to be copyrighted. For the past four decades, the Reference Guide has taken the guesswork out of matching fragrances. The current guidebook includes a genealogy of each fragrance family, with noteworthy and iconic fragrances from the past century.

From single flower concertos to sypmhonies of complex bouquets, today’s headspace technology lets perfumes clone the scent of flowers from which no oil can be extracted by traditional methods.

Visit retailbeauty.com.au to explore the iconic fragrances of every floral family on the Fragrance Wheel.

ANAÏS L’ORIGINAL Cacharel

LOVE AGAIN Yves Saint Laurent

Guy Laroche

NORELL Norell

TEA ROSE Perfumer’s Workshop

CHARLIE Revlon

AMAZONE Hermès

FOR WOMEN Perry Ellis

Laura Biagiotti

Estée Lauder

GIRL Tommy Hilfiger

HAPPY Clinique

MAGNOLIA Grandiflora

HER BLOSSOM Burberry

PERLA SIGNATURE

Perla

1 DE CHANEL L’EAU ROUGE Chanel

Lotte Duty Free Sydney.

BreakthroughBeauty

Lotte Duty Free reveals that the total Australian travel retail market was worth AU$1.124 billion per year pre-Covid and South Korea’s largest travel retailer has very big plans to grow the sector.

The multinational recently opened a 3000 square metre, three-storey flagship store in Sydney as a major building block for its ambitious strategy.

Beauty, especially fragrance, is a huge part of the mix of the international and local brands across on hand to tempt travellers.

LAURA ANNE HUBBARD Beauty, Make up and Fragrance Specialist

Fragrance is a really personal expression, and just like beauty and fashion, it also has an aspect of nostalgia. I love to get to know a little about the customer’s personal scent style and preference. Based on this information we take a fragrance journey around the store. ‘Vanilla? Floral? Smokey? Fruit?’ I also recommend layering fragrance to add depth and a unique touch so that you smell like YOU, it’s a defined and sophisticated way to wear fragrance. My personal favourite is Tom Ford’s Ombre leather layered with Bitter Peach for a deep magnetic and sexy musk, defined by peachy fruitiness, which complement each other well.

CINDY CHUNG –Fragrance Specialist

It is important to ask open-ended questions to discover what the customer uses and what they are looking to try. I actively listen and also wear a perfume that I personally find appealing. Every brand has a story, so a tip I would give is to retell that story to offer a unique and special experience for the customer. This is so they can grasp the brand’s concept and are not only purchasing the new fragrance, but also the story and meaning behind that unique scent.

MICHELLE LU Fragrance Specialist

Ask what fragrance the customer is using now and what scents they prefer, to discover and understand the customer’s need. Build up a connection with a customer by offering a lovely hand massage with a fragrance combination.

Spend time with the customer, discovering the right fragrance that represents their personality and style. Finally, spray the customer’s favourite scent when they are leaving the store to create a memory in store, and which they can enjoy for the rest of the day while remembering the experience they had.

JULIE VILLALUZ Fragrance Specialist

1. Welcoming eye contact is important but avoid highly complimentary introductions which can be artificial.

2. Ask if they are seeking a gift or wanting to experiment with a new scent, or even just replacing something they already have.

3. Gather fragrance names they already wear; this will help you guide what their taste is to determine which scents they will be willing to try.

4. Gather three to four fragrances for them to try that suits their taste scents.

5. It is important to really show interest to customers, to connect with their stories. Choosing a fragrance isn’t just about a smell, emotion is a powerful factor.

DANIEL COLACO Beauty, Make up and Fragrance Specialist

I actively listen to a customer and find out what their favourite notes are and what they’ve worn in the past. Give them three options and always save the best for last. Treat your customer like an old friend who is coming to visit and just have fun with it!

Retail Beauty asked the Lotte staff: “What are your top tips for selling fragrance?”

Esxence Returns to Milan

June saw the welcomed return of Esxence in Italy after a two-year hiatus brought on by the pandemic and global travel restrictions. This was the 12th edition of the Milanese exhibition, which always provides an important platform for promoting artistic perfumery.

By Clayton Ilolahia – Evaluation & Communications Manager, Fragrances of the World

This year had a record-breaking turnout. During the fourday event, more than 280 brands were presented, and 9200 attendees visited from around the world.

The concept chosen for this year’s Esxence was Through The Mirror, “which translates into beauty, singularity, awareness, intimacy and conscience. That mirror was the characteristic feature this year, enabling us all to see the many different facets of reality and offering us a pathway through, to go exploring new worlds, such as the world of artistic perfumery and of art.” – www.esxence.com

Esxence was started in 2009 and has grown year on year. This year’s venue was the MiCo Milano Convention Centre, a larger space than in previous years, which helped cater for the booming growth of

niche fragrances. The event was a confluence of fragrance and beauty brands, retailers, distributors and consumers. Exhibitors came from 31 countries and made up 70 per cent of the presenting brands. Several brand owners commented on the diversity of retailers they met over the four days. They saw visitors from countries outside the European Union they had not seen at past exhibitions.

For a brand to present at Esxence, an application is submitted and must be approved by Esxence’s technical committee. The highly curated event divides the floorplan into a main section for regular presenters at Esxence and a spotlight section, where new and emerging brands gain important exposure to retailers, distributors and the public. This year’s event included the Experience Lab for a second time; Italy’s first event that is dedicated to niche beauty.

Twenty-five conferences and meetings were attended by some of the most authoritative names in the industry. Michael Edwards is an Esxence veteran. While he did not attend in person this year, he gave a virtual masterclass on his Fragrance Wheel, using examples from Esxence to illustrate each of his fragrance families. Other speakers gave insightful presentations on the overlap of fragrance with digital and new technology and overviews of emerging markets outside the EU such as China and Africa.

Michael Edwards says niche perfumery is the industry’s nursery. It is often the place where new ideas are forged and tested before being adopted by larger brands with bigger commercial imperatives. Seeing so many niche brands in a short period of time and in the same space, new niche trends were much easier to spot. The trend of creating comfort scents in the wake of a global pandemic continued. These fragrances used soft, powdery notes like ambrette seed, modern musks, aldehydes and iris butter to provide a cocooning effect. Neela Vermeire’s new Fragments Collection is all about “regeneration, mystic warmth” and “tender comfort.” In contrast, rebellious Etienne de Swardt’s latest fragrance for Etat Libre d’Orange is simply called Frustration. Familiarity also creates comfort and the perpetually reinvented Fougère or Fern accord proved to be popular amongst this year’s new launches at the exhibition. Some notable ones were Berlin brand J.F. Schwarzlose’s Fougair, Masque Milano’s Slight of Fern and Mark Buxton’s Why Not a Fougère.

Ingredients often play a key role in niche fragrance storytelling and this continued. Southern Italy produces remarkable citrus essences, and they were the focus of Laboratorio Olfattivo’s Viaggio in Italia collection, created with cult perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, former in-house Nez at Hermès. Each fragrance paid tribute to a single citrus essence: Bergamot, lime, lemon, and blood orange. The result is a lively collection of fragrances evoking a Southern Mediterranean lifestyle.

Niche fragrance veteran Nicolas Chabot launched a new brand called Headspace Parfums. A fan of molecular perfumery, Chabot developed seven fragrances with the leading oil house International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). He asked some of the most creative noses in the industry to incorporate IFF’s Headspace technology into their creations. Headspace is a technique where the air surrounding an object is analysed for odour. Chemists and perfumers use the analytical data to recreate the scent in a laboratory. This technique is invaluable for capturing the true-to-life scent of flowers, especially rare or endangered ones where cultivation for perfumery is unsustainable. Headspace Parfums “captures the uncapturable” with Tubereuse Headspace, a fragrance that uses notes of tuberose, tobacco, galbanum and vanilla to recount the scent of cigarettes in bed after the act of lovemaking.

Sustainability was another big topic of conversation. Brands were not only talking about environmental sustainability, but they were also talking about operational sustainability. Niche brands can be nimble due to their size, but they were not immune to multiple geopolitical events that impacted business. Paper and glass shortages, as well as some ingredient shortages, challenged business continuity. Brands owners and managers spoke about their experience managing through Covid-19. Many needed to simplify operations during the various lockdown periods to reduce operational costs. Then there was the challenge of transitioning from a walk to a sprint once business returned to full speed. Businesses without the necessary acumen struggled in this volatile environment.

Despite so many challenges, the mood at Esxence was extremely upbeat. The niche community was visibly moved by the reunion and although many aspects of operating a niche fragrance brand continue with challenges, many of the brands I spoke with reported positive sales figures for the year to date. This mood was promising. ■

Esxence will return to Milan in 2023, from March 30 until April 2.

A side of

Sandalwood

Jennifer Jambon was crowned the global winner of the Sandalwood Reimagined fragrance competition, announced at the World Perfumery Congress. The competition was held by Quintis Sandalwood, in partnership with the American Society of Perfumers (ASP). Jennifer was one of 10 finalists, spanning five countries, selected from more than 300 entrants with each demonstrating their own unique approach to formulating with Indian sandalwood. Michelle Ruzzene caught with Jennifer, an established perfumer at Argeville, to find out what it takes to create an award-winning fragrance.

WHY DID YOU ENTER THE COMPETITION?

I really enjoyed creating with sandalwood and work on creative projects. The Sandalwood Reimagined competition provided the unique opportunity to explore my creativity and have my fragrance experienced by some of the most respected experts in the field of perfumery. There was also $10,000 prize money up for grabs!

WHAT DID YOU HAVE TO DO TO ENTER?

The competition encouraged participants to use Indian sandalwood as their muse, removing parameters of a commercial fragrance brief, like consumer profile and budget.

DESCRIBE YOUR FRAGRANCE.

The violet leaf combined with magnolia and mimosa blossom to give a natural floral green start. Then the precious sandalwood rounds the powdery orris to give a creamy rich texture to the fragrance. Finally, balsamic benzoin, mystic olibanum, and gourmand tonka bean enrich the perfume’s body and liner on the skin.

WHAT INSPIRED YOUR FRAGRANCE?

I had the opportunity to visit Quintis’s sandalwood plantation during the harvesting of the precious ingredient. I keep the memory of the enveloping fragrance of sandalwood in the vast forest inspiring freedom.

IT’S NOT THE FIRST TIME YOU’VE WON THIS COMPETITION?

I won the last Quintis Reimagined sandalwood competition six years ago! The prize was a trip to Australia to visit Quintis sustainable plantations. It was unforgettable and unique experience so I wanted to participate again.

WHAT CHALLENGES DID YOU OVERCOME IN CREATING THE FRAGRANCE?

The most difficult part was to decide on the olfactive direction to have an interesting, original with personality and harmonious fragrance. I made few trials to balance different facets and give volume to my fragrance.

WHO JUDGED THE AWARDS?

Judging the fragrance creations were an independent panel of fragrance masters, who have collectively worked with major fragrance companies like Givaudan, Firmenich, IFF, Mane, Symrise and Takasago, and have created fragrances for iconic brands like Estée Lauder, Ralph Lauren, Coty, DKNY, and Maesa.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE WITH THE NEXT GENERATION OF PERFUMERS/ SCENT CREATORS?

Keep the formula short and simple to be able to balance correctly. Spending time to think about this idea before starting formulation and try your fragrances on skin to make sure you are happy with the blooming and lasting. ■

Fanny Ginolin, assistant perfumer at Takasage, was also announced as the winner in the emerging perfumer category, and took home $2,000 as prize money.

ABOUT QUINTIS SANDALWOOD

Quintis Sandalwood established the first sustainable Indian sandalwood plantation in 1999, and now owns and manages the largest Indian sandalwood plantation in the world. It spans over 12,000 hectares across northern Australia and is home to more than 5.5 million trees.

ABOUT THE AMERICAN SOCIETY OF PERFUMERS

The American Society of Perfumers, Inc (ASP) is a non-profit organization founded in 1947, with a current membership of approximately three hundred professional US-based perfumers. The main goal of the ASP is to uphold the high standards of professional perfumery in the US while representing their members internationally. They provide support to members through apprenticeships and networking events, ensuring the continuation of the traditions of classical perfumery.

Jennifer Jambon, winner of the Sandalwood Reimagined competition.

Help Australians face cancer with confidence this September

Show your support throughout Feel Better Month to help us provide our confidence-boosting program to all Australians undergoing treatment for cancer.

Visit lgfb.org.au/feelbettermonth or email fundraising@lgfb.org.au for details on getting involved.

Haircare Essentials

The must-have products for healthy, shiny hair.

www.sephora.com.au

Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.

Evolis Professional Reverse Treatment Mask - www.evolisproducts.com.au Klorane Hair Strengthening Serum - www.klorane.com/au-en Batiste Plant Powered Dry Shampoo Bamboo Fibre & Gardenia - www.batistehair.com.au

Sisley Hair Rituel by Sisley Precious Hair Care Oil - www.sisley-paris.com/en-AU

Revamp Progloss Liberate Cordless Ceramic Compact Hair Straightener - https://revamphair.com.au Kemon Actyva Bellessere Oil - www.ozhairandbeauty.com

John Frieda Frizz Ease Weightless Wonder Featherlight Smoothing Crème - www.johnfrieda.com/en-au

Christophe Robin Purifying Mask with Thermal Mud - https://mcmbeauty.com

FOR YOUR EYES ONLY

Expert insights to care for the delicate eye contour.

By Nikita Papas

PHOTOGRAPHY SAM BISSO MODEL FREDERIKKE OLESEN HAIR & MAKEUP HELGE BRANSCHEIDT STYLING MARKUS GALIC

Diamonds In The Sky

The market is saturated with an array of products and promises. From a consumer perspective, the navigation aligned to purchasing a performance-driven, eye contour product can be overwhelming. Assisting consumers should ideally begin with identifying their skin type and key concerns.

IN THE ZONE

‘Eyes are windows to the soul’. Poetic proverbs aside, our eyes command paramount attention, and are instrumental to facial processing. The delicate eye contour sits in what is technically known as the periorbital region of the face – a zone that comprises the upper eyelids to the eyebrows, and the lower lids to the upper part of the cheek. “The skin in the eye contour is significantly thinner, and more fragile compared to other parts of our face and body. Lubricating sebaceous glands, and collagen - the primary structural component of the dermis, responsible for strengthening and supporting skin - are less concentrated in this zone. As we age, our collagen levels become depleted, tissues and muscles weaken, and the fat pads underneath our eyes begin to descend and bulge –the associated puffiness can also be attributed to an accumulation of fluid (water retention). Furthermore, the eye contour is subject to constant micromovements – both voluntary and involuntary”, explains dermatologist, Dr Eleni Yiasemides (SouthDerm, NSW). What does this mean? Unfortunately, our eye contour is vulnerable to dryness, irritation, and environmental damage that exacerbate the visible signs of ageing – loss of firmness, fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and dullness. Factor in genetics and poor lifestyle choices that can contribute to persistent dark circles and puffiness, and our preoccupation with products to specifically treat the eye contour is completely justified. Show me the light.

MADE FOR SENSITIVE

Many skincare professionals - including dermal therapists, dermatologists, and cosmetic physicians - advocate the use of dedicated skincare products that are formulated specifically for the delicate eye zone. The market is saturated with an array of products and promises. From a consumer perspective, the navigation aligned to purchasing a performance-driven, eye contour product can be overwhelming. Assisting consumers should ideally begin with identifying their skin type and key concerns. “The skin surrounding our eyes showcases a thinner epidermis,

and a weaker barrier function that can lead to transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and irritation. Dry skin is compromised skin. Minimalist, fragrance-free products that combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients will promote well tolerated hydration and moisturisation”, says Rachel McAdam (Scientific Communications Manager, L’Oréal Active Cosmetics Division). Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturisation is aligned to skin’s ability to retain water moleculesboth elements are required to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Eye Cream offers a lightweight, non-greasy formula enriched with soothing Neurosensine, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), and the brand’s unique, antioxidant-rich Thermal Spring Water, to hydrate and soothe the eye contour. Mindfully packaged in an airtight vessel to preserve the purity of the formula, the recent inclusion of prebiotic Sphingobioma supports the skin microbiome and minimises sensitivity. CeraVe Eye Repair Cream is formulated with three essential, skin-loving Ceramides to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier, calming Niacinamide, and Hyaluronic Acid to attract moisture and consequently promote plumper, smoother looking skin. “Dermatologist-approved, both products are ideal for sensitive, allergy-prone skin – fragrance-free, parabenfree, hypoallergenic, and non-comedogenic”, says McAdam. Everything you need, and everything you don’t. For those seeking ‘made for sensitive’ products with hero botanical infusions, Weleda Hydrating Eye Gel contains moisturising Prickly Pear Extract, Vitamin E-rich Wheatgerm Oil, and a combination of soothing Aloe Vera and Cucumber Fruit Extracts. Designed with a cooling, metal roll-on applicator, the weightless formula absorbs swiftly to increase moisture levels by up to 93% withing 30 minutes.

Ophthalmologist tested, Clinique All About Eyes offers a sublime, cream-gel formula that actively targets under-eye circles and puffiness. Key ingredients include Mulberry Root Extract to combat free radical damage and brighten, stimulating Caffeine to decongest and firm, and Green Tea Extract (rich in Polyphenols) to prevent oxidative damage.

LET THERE BE LIGHT

Dark circles present a common concern for many consumers – our pursuit for a brighter-looking eye contour is relentless. “Dark circles can be attributed to a range of factors including ageing, genetics, hyperpigmentation, and fatigue. From our mid-twenties, the progressive loss of collagen and elastin leads to the degeneration of skin tissue. The delicate skin in the eye zone becomes increasingly fragile, and the resulting transparency exposes the presence of blood vessels that can darken the appearance of this zone. The look of dark circles can be intensified by the anatomy of the under-eye area. A prominent ‘tear trough’ (the hollowed area that extends from the inner corner of the eye toward the cheekbone), can create shadowing and make dark circles more apparent. Some people naturally produce extra pigment (melanin) around their eyes, and the sun’s damaging UV rays can also trigger melanin production leading to hyperpigmentation”, says Dr Yiasemides. With regards to poor lifestyle habits including smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, inadequate sleep, and not drinking enough water, it’s safe to assume that we are all familiar with the consequences. These habits create a fatigued appearance that can intensify the look of dark circles and puffiness. Be kind to your body. Truth be told, no one product (or procedure) can completely diminish the look of dark circles, but we can alleviate the condition with hybrid formulations – those that combine ingredients to strengthen the skin barrier function (such as Ceramides), with specific actives (such as Niacinamide and Vitamin C) + radianceboosting optical brighteners.

Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Eye Crème is powered by a triple Vitamin C brightening complex, and light-reflecting pigments derived from Banana Powder, to provide universal colour-

correcting benefits. The hydrating, illuminating formula includes Gold to enhance the delivery of Vitamin C, and is designed to create a crease-resistant base for improved concealer wear. Tula Rose Glow & Get It is a brightening eye balm infused with antiageing Rosehip Oil (a gentle, plant-based Retinol alternative), hydrating Rose Water, plumping Hyaluronic Acid, firming Caffeine, and probiotic extracts to balance the skin microbiome. Exclusive to MECCA, the convenient, ‘take-anywhere’, creamy balm-stick formula includes illuminating particles to reduce the look of dark circles, and impart part a radiant glow. La RochePosay Pigmentclar Anti Pigmentation Eye Cream is expertly formulated with PhE-Resorcinol to promote a unified complexion, Ferulic Acid (a powerful anti-ageing antioxidant), and Caffeine to boost microcirculation and firm. Suitable for sensitive eyes, the addition of light-reflecting pigments alleviates dullness, and the appearance of dark circles. Applied via a sculpted, cooling metal applicator, the hydrating, fluid texture melts into the skin to create an ideal makeup base.

THE POWERHOUSES

According to Dr Yiasemides, eye contour products that hydrate, moisturise, and soothe the delicate orbital contour should be prioritised. Products formulated with lipid-rich, barrierstrengthening ingredients such as skin-identical Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Peptides, Provitamin B5, and Vitamin K (aligned to skin-recovery) are ideal. Certain actives, particularly exfoliating AHAs and BHAs, and additives including alcohol, fragrance, preservatives and sulphates, have the potential to irritate sensitive, allergy-prone skin types. For those that can tolerate actives, Dr Yiasemides’ star ingredients include clinically proven Retinol (a Vitamin A derivative) to resurface and refine,

and brightening Vitamin C, to mitigate damage caused by free radicals, and improve the appearance of dull, uneven skin. Renowned as a market leader in Ceramide technology, Elizabeth Arden has introduced Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Cream to its anti-ageing skincare arsenal. Powered by encapsulated pure Retinol (to enhance stability, penetration and performance), the efficacious formula also holds a Peptide complex, barrier-fortifying Ceramides, Niacinamide, and soothing Panthenol (Provitamin B5). The verdict - a considered fusion of actives and caring ingredients to address the signs of ageing and promote a healthy, radiantlooking eye contour.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix is designed to support and accelerate the skin’s natural nocturnal repair process. 360° Mesh Matrix Technologypowered by a blend of Visco-Elastic Polymer and multi-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acids - acts to cushion the visible impact of accumulated micro-movements in the delicate eye area. Showcasing the brand’s expertise in microbiome science, Lancôme Advanced Génefique Eye Cream is supercharged with Bifidus Prebiotic Fractions to rebalance the skin microbiome, Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate and plump skin, and Vitamin CG – a gentler, more stable derivative of Vitamin C that delivers enhanced antioxidant, collagen-boosting, and clarifying benefits. Dr Naomi Catfish Blurring Eye Cream is an innovative, cosmeceutical-grade product that offers an immediate blurring effect to alleviate the look of imperfections. The formula is infused with Hyaluronic Filling Spheres, Kangaroo Paw Flower Extract, and the brand’s exclusive Proprietary Brightening Cocktail to boost collagen production, target pigmentation, restore luminosity and firmness. Rationale #6 The Eye Crème showcases a high-performance formula anchored by Retinol to encourage cell generation, DNA Repair Enzymes to

address the signs of photo-ageing, replenishing Ceramides, and antioxidant-rich Baobab Pulp Extract, to hydrate and counter the look of fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. Next-gen powerhouses sorted.

WORDS OF WISDOM

“With regards to the eye contour, ‘less is always more’ – this refers to the product’s ingredient listing, and to applying a restrained amount of the formula. Layer the product onto cleansed skin after applying your facial serum, and follow with a moisturiser. Be gentle. Think of the application as a ‘gesture’ - sweep the formula from the inner corner to the outer corner to promote lymphatic drainage, and pat the residue onto the eyelid. Consider alternating the products you deploy for your AM v’s PM routine – lightweight formulations are ideal in the morning, and richer ones - particularly those that hero Retinol - are better suited in the evening”, recommends George Gougoulis – an established aesthetician, industry expert, and Director at The Facial Maestro (VIC). The vulnerability of the fragile skin in the eye zone can be attributed to its biological characteristics, and to our lifestyle choices. Consult a skincare professional to recommend efficacious products (and ingredients), to address the specific concerns of your eye zone. It’s estimated that 90% of ageing results from harmful (cancercausing) UV exposure. Invest in a dermatologist-approved, broad spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen, and integrate this skincare ‘essential’ into your daily (year-round) AM routine, as the last step prior to applying makeup. Under-eye concealers? Clever. Colour-correctors? Genius. Be sure to research and trial – consider the formula, shade, and texture with due care. Sunglasses? They are vital – seek out reputable retailers, and styles that are labelled with Category 3 (as a minimum) or UV 400. Eyes – diamonds in the sky. ■

My Journey

JAMEE PARKER a-beauty founder and creative director

Beauty is in Jamee Parker’s blood. As the daughter of the late Michelle Doherty, founder of cult beauty brand Alpha-H, Jamee knows what it takes to build a brand from the ground up. She started a-beauty, an editorial x e-commerce site that features only Australian beauty, almost two years ago, at the height of the pandemic. As the site prepares to celebrate its second birthday, the mother-of-two shares with Michelle Ruzzene her journey.

WHERE DID YOU GROW UP?

I was born in New Zealand and Mum and Dad made the permanent move across the ditch when I was eight in 1995 so I suppose I spent the early parts of childhood in Auckland with the rest of my time on the Gold Coast. I was a pretty adventurous kid; we were outdoors a lot and I loved to climb trees and I loved animals.

YOUR BEAUTIFUL MOTHER UNFORTUNATELY PASSED AWAY AT THE AGE OF 57 IN 2020 AFTER A TWOYEAR BATTLE WITH CANCER – HOW DOES SHE CONTINUE TO INSPIRE YOU?

Mum continues to inspire me every day in all aspects of my life. She was a brilliant businesswoman, a nurturing and supportive mother, a beautiful daughter and sister, and a kind and considerate friend. No matter what challenges I am facing, I do often find myself thinking about how she would approach things, and ask myselfwhat would Mum do?

WHAT WOULD YOU TELL YOUR 18-YEAROLD SELF?

Say yes to things and regret it later, as opposed to saying no and wondering what if. This has been a mantra that has served me so well later in life so if I had just gotten onto the band wagon earlier, who knows where I would be today.

HOW DO YOU PLAN YOUR WEEK?

Mondays we focus on social media and content for The Edit; Tuesdays are for graphic design, EDM planning and creation along

with adhoc marketing tasks; Wednesdays we have a good look at on-site activity and metrics; and then Thursday is usually a planning, replenishment orders etc. kind of a day and I WFH on a Friday as I have the girls at home with me.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO START A-BEAUTY?

Mum was diagnosed with cancer a week after I found out I was pregnant with my first daughter Peaches. Alpha-H was also in the initial stages of acquisition so I felt a lot of pressure to try and keep things sailing smoothly so Mum could get the treatment she needed without it impacting the acquisition. I worked really hard - I was spearheading the brand’s launch into the Sephora network globally so was still flying globally until I was 34 weeks and no longer able to fly long-haul distances - and then I was back on a plane when my daughter was nine weeks old for a three-week trip to Europe to launch into 14 countries… so it was kind of around this time that I thought I needed to slow down a little. Sadly, once the acquisition took place (Riverside Company acquired Alpha-H for an undisclosed amount in 2019) I no longer felt it was the right fit for me there so I resigned from my position and took a leap of faith into starting a-beauty.

HOW DID THE PANDEMIC IMPACT THE BUSINESS?

The pandemic created a lot of opportunities for eCommerce, however, it also saw a rise in new online shopping destinations and multi-brand retailers. We are playing the long game and understand that running a successful business doesn’t happen overnight, so we are focusing on laying the foundations to be here for a while.

TELL US ABOUT THE BENEFITS OF WORKING IN A FAMILY BUSINESS (ALPHA-H)?

I loved working in the family business and one of the main benefits that comes to mind is that it taught us to multi-task and get to know all jobs and facets of the business, not just the glamourous side. Dad had us in the filling room and packing orders from a young age, and Mum taught us how to answer the phones and help with customer care. They both believed that you need to know your business inside and out if you are to succeed. You need to know every role within the business so that was something that’s always stuck with me.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ‘FAILURE’, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT?

Going too deep into a buy can always be a little much when you are starting out. I suggest working closely with a brand to on-board with their best sellers and build out your assortment from there so you can see what resonates with your customers.

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY HEADED?

People are still loving the convenience of online shopping for the products they already know and love, but exploring new brands and products will most likely continue in B&M because consumers still like to play with textures and smell things before truly committing. It’s been amazing to see our customers really embrace our philosophy which is to support local and think about where products are made and the faces behind them. We’ll continue to see beauty shoppers make the switch from international brands to homegrown ones as they discover what incredible products are being made here in Australia.

WHAT IS THE ONE COMMON MYTH ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY THAT YOU WANT TO DEBUNK?

Business success happens overnight. Total myth. Success is not built overnight. It’s a slow burn - so learn to ride the highs and the lows.

WHAT’S YOUR HERO BEAUTY PRODUCT?

I am obsessed with the Ere Perez Carrot Colour Pots – they’re the perfect multi-tasking makeup product for busy working mums on the go. ■

Access a-beauty online at https://abeauty.co.

a-beauty Founder Jamee Parker.

The late Michelle Doherty.

We’ll continue to see beauty shoppers make the switch from international brands to homegrown ones as they discover what incredible products are being made here in Australia.

Eco Ethics is the next K-Beauty megatrend to look out for

South Korea’s skincare category continues to grow despite current economic uncertainties. The facial skincare market alone is forecast to reach KRW 5.47 trillion (approx $6.1 billion) this year, which is a 1.6 per cent increase from 2021, according to Mintel Market Sizes

By Hwa Jun Lee, Senior Beauty and Personal Care Analyst, Mintel

TRENDS

This steady growth trend also highlights the dominance of eco ethics in the K-Beauty industry. Over the last three years, new product launches have seen ethical claims like environmentally-friendly packaging nearly double to 24 per cent compared to 13 per cent in 2020, according to Mintel New Products Database (GNPD)1 .

Rising consumer consciousness around ethical and sustainable issues is driving a socially responsible response from brands. To put this into perspective, 32 per cent of Australian consumers say that they are willing to spend more on a beauty or grooming product that is environmentally friendly.2

RECYCLING BECOMES THE NEW NORM

South Korean brands like Tirtir have focused on recycling. Launched in 2021, the Tir:cycle campaign encourages customers to bring empty Tirtir product bottles (made of glass or plastic) to its physical stores with incentives such as discounts and coupons to encourage participation. Beauty brand Melixir also launched a similar campaign with global recycling company TerraCycle.

Brands are taking this a step further through packaging innovation. For example, Benton Goodbye Redness Centella Powderwash retails in a 30g pack, using 100 per cent sugar canederived, tree-free, biodegradable, and soy ink-printed paper, bearing the Earth Pact and FBC (free from bleaching chemicals) logos.

ETHICAL INGREDIENTS AND SOURCING

To strengthen sustainability claims, brands need to be transparent with their communication. As interest in the safety and environmental impact of ingredients used in beauty products increases, consumers will demand detailed information on the origin of ingredients. Over one-third (36 per cent) of Chinese consumers are willing to spend more on a beauty or grooming product that provides information on ingredient sourcing.3

Ma:nyo Zaódam Acorn Mask Pack is one example. It is formulated with fresh acorns from Hongcheon, South Korea, that are fermented twice for 72 hours to maximise the active ingredients. It also contains green tea from Boseong, Centella Asiatica from Jeju island, and bamboo shoots from Damyang which have a soothing effect on the skin.

Highlighting locally sourced ingredients in a sustainable way will stand out and forge a deeper connection to local communities while feeding consumer appetite for eco-friendly beauty products.

VEGAN FORMULATIONS

Vegan skincare is also gaining popularity in South Korea. Our research indicates that a vegan formula is strongly associated with sustainability and brands can combine this with other eco-friendly aspects of ethical beauty.

Dr. Ceuracle’s Vegan Kombucha Tea Gel Cream has been vegan-certified by the Korea Agency of Vegan Certification and has undergone eco-ethical manufacturing processes. It retails in FSC Mix-certified packaging made with upcycled and recyclable material. It is also free from elementary chlorine and plastic.

WHAT’S NEXT

As consumers demand more from brands and become increasingly sophisticated in their understanding of environmental issues, brands will be under pressure to ensure they are incorporating sustainability into their core business practices. According to Mintel Trend Rethink Plastic, brands and consumers are reviewing their behaviours to prevent plastic pollution. We expect South Korean beauty brands to continue to move in this direction, focusing on packaging and product formulation. ■

References:

1 - Between January 2019-December 2021

2,3 - 1,000 Australian internet users aged 18+; 1,000 Chinese internet users aged 18+; Mintel Global Consumer, August 2021

Hwa Jun Lee

Melixir’s iconic plastic-free store.

Benton Goodbye Redness Centella Powder Wash.

Dr. Ceuracle’s Vegan Kombucha Tea Gel Cream.

How to sell in the retail beasts

beauty

I have been a buyer for major retailers for the better part of my career, so I can safely say that few categories have accelerated in terms of growth and innovation at the speed of the Beauty category generally (with the beauty products category globally still set to grow 4.4 per cent during 2021-2027 according to Market Watch). Beauty being so varied and competitive means that getting products into major retail and more pertinently, products staying in major retail can be a real challenge for many smaller brands.

By Jessica Maree Gordoun, Director at Ranged

In my current business, Ranged, I now help small to medium sized brands (some of which are in the Beauty space) get ranging in major retailers think Coles, Woolworths, Chemist Warehouse and Priceline and stay in the range long term. Now that I have been on both sides of the table, I understand the fundamentals of what it takes to make a brand successful in retail. I like to think of these as three golden rules to growing brands in retail.

1. INCREASE SALES OF EXISTING PRODUCTS IN EXISTING RETAILERS

• First and foremost, you need to know your sales numbers. Whilst not the sexiest aspect of running a beauty business, measuring sales performance is essential. The most important metric you are looking to measure is units per store per week (UPSPW). This is the cleanest way for a retailer to analyse your sales on a level playing field verse other brands. Make sure you know what the benchmark UPSPW is for the category and then compare how your brand performs against that benchmark. Retailers are cagey when it comes to data (unless you are willing to pay a small fortune for data), however most offer a free version to get the basic sales data. If all else fails, monthly purchase orders are also a great way to understand performance patterns over time.

• Once you’ve analysed your sales, the best way to influence your performance is through retail promotions/discounts. Most large retailers operate this as a scan deal, so they deduct an agreed unit funding off every sale during the period the product is on said promotion. This is a good customer acquisition strategy and one of the best ways to guarantee sales uplift in retail. However, make sure you know what the costs are for this activity before you sign up for it as this can be an unprofitable exercise particularly at half price.

• And then of course, the best way for you to influence your own product sales in retail is unsurprisingly…marketing! Whilst I am not a trained marketer, I have accumulated some understanding of best practice for retail focused marketing. A good rule of thumb for new brands should stick to is to focus 80 per cent of their effort on brand awareness, 10 per cent on consideration/conversion and 10 per cent frequency/loyalty. In particular, this marketing spend needs to be directed to creating brand awareness and conversion as close to the point of purchase as possible eg: geotargeted ads in key stores, sampling near stores in shopping centres and creating viral video content around new news (ie: product launches or promotions in retail) to start funneling the customers from brand awareness into consideration. Along the way make sure you are measuring ROAS and are iterating your approach.

2. INCREASE YOUR DISTRIBUTION AND RETAIL CUSTOMERS

• Once you have cracked the formula to making your sales work in your existing customer base, it is time to look for new avenues to sale. For beauty products, there are numerous options in Australia. For major retailers you are really looking at Coles, Woolworths, Chemist Warehouse and Priceline and for boutique/department retailers you are looking at Mecca, Sephora, David Jones and Myer. Different retailers will have different expectations on retail pricings, margins, UPSPW, supply methods and funding. So, it is certainly not a one-size fits all model when it comes to building your commercials and presentations for each retailer. So do your homework!

• For managing multiple smaller one-off store accounts, many find distributors the cleanest route to market. I personally have had great experiences with national distributors managing IGAs, independent pharmacies and e-commerce businesses. It is important you work in lockstep with distributors to drive the best outcomes and together open more doors and small accounts.

3. BUILD YOUR NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (NPD) PIPELINE

• When thinking of new products to develop, brand clarity is key. Understand what your brand stands for and stick to it, for instance, if you are a sustainable, organic skin care brand focused on Millennial women it wouldn’t be wise to develop new products targeting Baby Boomer women looking for cosmeceuticals, unless you’re intending to start a sub-brand. Whilst an extreme example it is helpful to think of it this way, would you buy a women’s skincare serum from Lynx? Didn’t think so.

• Get your inspiration from across the pond, knowing what’s trending in other markets can help you offer a point of difference in the Australian market. I personally think the US and UK are good comparable markets and move at a much faster pace than Australia in most categories. Make sure you look at the data to validate your discovery. The data from the US from research sites such as Market and Markets will provide good insights on trends and the growth in certain categories and ingredients.

• Finally, make sure to talk to your buyers in the retailers you are currently ranged in. They see more data than anyone else in the industry and they know what their beauty category strategy is, so to use a biblical quote; ask and you shall receive.

Happy selling! ■

To set a disclaimer here, the advice in this article is general and may not be right for all brands, however if you have any questions please visit my website www.ranged.com.au and submit bespoke questions.

The most important metric you are looking to measure is units per store per week (UPSPW).

Jessica Maree Gordoun.

Doubling down on omnichannel integrations:

what retailers need to know to stand out

By Nick Larcher, Marketing Director for Australia, ShopFully

Australians are spending more than ever on health and beauty. This only increased during the coronavirus pandemic, with consumers investing more than ever into their skincare and beauty regimes—a recent survey of over 900 of ShopFully’s Australian customers found that 90 per cent of those shopping in the category spent up to $1,000 on products during the pandemic.

Despite this, consumers are looking to secure more ‘bang for their buck’ amid the rising cost of living and inflation. In fact, research indicates that Aussie shoppers are planning their shopping trips to secure the best deals, with over half the nation (57 per cent) turning to Internet searches and slightly less (46 per cent) to digital catalogues.

With most retailers offering the same access to beauty brands, consumer purchasing decisions are being made based solely on experience and price. To generate cut-through and drive purchases, retailers and brands looking to claim their stake in the nearly $4.4 billion Australian cosmetic and toiletries market must implement omnichannel marketing strategies that, where possible, emphasise physical stores.

REDISCOVERING THE POWER OF DIGITAL CATALOGUES

Recent research from ShopFully and Nielsen Media Analytics into the marketing investments of Australian retailers, brands and marketing agencies found the majority plan to increase spending on digital platforms such as websites, cross-media marketing and mobile apps by more than 25 per cent in the next three years.

Digital catalogues continue to command a significant proportion of brand marketers’ budgets, with the research indicating spend is set to increase by 10 to 50 per cent over the next three to five years. Already, digital catalogues receive a significant portion of the marketing budget, with the retailer and brand decision-makers surveyed spending, on average, over 20 per cent of their overall marketing budget on the format to boost the frequency of consumer purchases (24 per cent) and driving foot traffic in-store (22 per cent).

It’s no surprise, given three-quarters (75 per cent) of the nation turn to the medium when deciding what to purchase. In fact, digital catalogues are to be top of mind for Aussies looking to buy health and beauty products, and over one-fifth (21 per cent) of shoppers have headed in-store after browsing a digital catalogue that they’ve spent eight minutes reading.

Embracing the omnichannel

The peak of the pandemic highlighted the most successful beauty retailers were the omnichannel businesses that adopted an integrated, digital approach that maximised mobile touchpoints.

In the fast-evolving industry, operating without an understanding of how each customer touchpoint feeds into the next runs the risk of losing consumers before conversion. It is essential for both retailers and brands to marry the physical and digital worlds, in turn capitalising upon the moments in which consumers are most likely to fulfil the desired outcomes.

Online is just the start of the customer journey, with 71 per cent of Australians planning their shopping digitally before setting foot in-store. From there, a customer is able to view which store a product is available, before going in-store to touch, feel and eventually purchase.

Across the entire path to purchase, Aussies are tapping into their smartphones as an anywhere remote control for shopping, be that solely from the comfort of their own homes or in-store.

CATCHING UP TO THE REST OF THE WORLD WITH PROXIMITY MARKETING

Proximity marketing is not new, with retailers and brands across Europe already profiting from the localised strategies. However, in Australia, the nation’s 21 million smartphone users present an untapped opportunity that marketers have the key to unlock.

The impact of geo-based marketing has helped drive several important benefits, including increased foot traffic, increased customer loyalty and better efficiency in targeting consumers close to the physical store. In fact, industry decision-makers from nine in 10 brands and seven in 10 retailers confirmed geo-personalised messages to be effective. This is reflected in the consumer research, with nearly three in five Aussie shoppers having visited a store to make a purchase after receiving a targeted push notification.

Used in conjunction with app prompts or notifications, such as social media ads, personalised emails and Google ads, most retail professionals are turning to proximity tools as the next stage of their marketing strategy.

The in-store experience is not going anywhere, and digital technologies will only continue to expand in breadth and in capability. To gain a competitive edge in an already oversaturated beauty and health sector, Australian retailers must act on the opportunity to enhance a brand’s connection with its customers and stand out from the crowd. ■

Online is just the start of the customer journey, with 71 per cent of Australians planning their shopping digitally before setting foot in-store.

The State of the

What’s selling in Australia—and why?

By Jarna McLean, Director, Health & Beauty, IRI Asia Pacific

Market

What’s driving Australian Retail?

This decade has so far been fashioned by climate-driven disasters and a global pandemic. Add economic, geo-political and social uncertainty and the backdrop is kind of grim.

Though far from positive, these circumstances do play an important role in shaping how each of us think, feel and shop. Thus, driving the state of the Australian Retail Industry, a performance that regardless of, and arguably because of the afore mentioned backdrop, is looking rather bright.

For the most part, Australian’s remain positive and resolute, looking to brands for fun not just function. However, the emotional and physical tax of the last two years is forging a holistic approach to wellbeing, continuing the Better for Me trend with a key focus on improving mental health.

Another trend shaping retail is focused on Better for Planet. Australian’s are demanding that brands do better. To be successful in the future, brands need to not just address sustainability but also their social responsibilities.

STATE OF THE RETAIL INDUSTRY

Off the back of five months of consecutive growth, Australian Retail has reached a record annual turnover of $383 BILLION. Based on data from the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS), for the 12 months to May value sales grew by 5.1 per cent versus one year ago and an impressive 15 per cent versus two years ago. What make these numbers remarkable is that for more than a third of the year, seven out of ten Australians experienced prolonged lockdowns, significantly impacting sales across discretionary spend sectors like hospitality, clothing and department stores.

So, what were people buying if they were rarely leaving the house? Mostly items aimed at improving the home and time spent within it. Unsurprisingly, Australian’s also embraced online with e-commerce sales surging across all sectors, including Beauty and Personal Care where IRI Shopper Panel data shows significant shifts away from bricks and mortar over the last two years. At the peak of the lockdown in Australia, online sales accounted for $1 in every $10 spent on beauty products, up from 2c for every $1 at the start of the pandemic.

BETTER FOR ME

The rapid rise in Better for Me is apparent in Grocery retailing where IRI Market Read Data shows categories such as Health Foods, Natural Beauty and Vitamin and Mineral Supplements are growing up to four times faster than total supermarkets (in the 12 months to March 2022). Though the Better for Me trend is far from new, Mood Food, or more generally, products focused on mental and emotional wellbeing are on the rise and set to be a key driver of growth in packaged goods.

So why are people seeking products that stimulate mental and emotional wellness? The 2021 National Study of Mental Health and Wellbeing (NSMHW), conducted by the ABS, found that 15 per cent of all Australian’s were reporting high or very high levels of psychological distress, with women and younger Australians more likely to report severe mental distress. As Australians become more aware of their mental health, consumers will be looking for products that offer mental and emotional health benefits.

Those products that call out their active ingredient, specific use or need state are winning at the check-out. Some examples are the rise of products labelled as rich in omega-3, pre-biotics or antioxidants; all known to assist in reducing instances of depression, as well as products labelled with their specific function such as beverages for ‘focus’, snacks that solicit ‘calm’ and various ‘stress-relieving’ goods.

Fermented food sales are also on the rise, with category value doubling in Grocery over the 12 months to March 2022. Often associated with gut health, fermented foods are happy foods too, playing a part in mental health and wellbeing through stimulating an increased production of serotonin. Consumers are also looking to supplements for a quick fix to reduce stress and boost brain health, with value sales up 60 per cent on the prior year for associated vitamins.

At the peak of the lockdown in Australia, online sales accounted for $1 in every $10 spent on beauty products, up from 2c in every $1 at the start of the pandemic.

BETTER FOR PLANET

Consumers have high expectations of brands; however, shoppers require simplicity and value at point of purchase. IRI research* shows that over 50 per cent of Australian shoppers intend to buy more ecofriendly products, however less than 30 per cent actively purchase. Ease of navigation is a core barrier to the critical masses. Brands that address this whilst also hitting multiple sustainability pillars, at minimal cost, are winning in store.

A focus on Reuse, Recycle and Reduce is allowing for new subcategories to emerge in store. Period Pants, with less than two years since launch in grocery retail, are now worth $13 million annually. Oral care is also having a revolution with an additional 118K households purchasing a bamboo toothbrush in the last year, driving value growth of 40 per cent. In homecare, products with ecoclaims (think biodegradable, plant-based, compostable, all-natural) on packaging are growing almost five times faster than the rest of category.

So, what next? IRI predicts that ethical values and sustainability will merge over the coming years. A trend already taking shape in the beauty sector with the launch of the EcoBeautyScore Consortium, whose aim is to develop an industry-wide environmental impact scoring system. Consumers are demanding more from brands and retailers are listening. The challenge will be to deliver products that hit multiple sustainability and ethical cues at appealing price points. ■

* IRI Shopper Panel Survey March 2021; n = 6,073

Sources:

Australian Bureau of Statistics, Retail Trade, May 2022

IRI Shopper Panel MAT to 27/3/2022

IRI MarketEdge Grocery Weighted, MAT 22/02/2022

ABS First insights from the National Study of Mental Health and Wellbeing, 2020-21

Puma x Modibodi leak-free period underwear.

ROCC bamboo toothbrushes are biodegradable.

The Power ofPurpose

by Brianne West

But how many bottles, jars, tubes and containers of beauty ‘stuff’ do you think the average woman uses in the morning? Five? Ten?

Thirteen, that’s how many. Thirteen jars, containers and bottles that are not only (usually) made of plastic, or non-compostable materials but are filled with ingredients that are typically between 70-95 per cent water. The remaining ingredients are usually sourced through very murky supply chains, laden with child labour, human rights abuses and environmental destruction.

The beauty industry is anything but beautiful. Downright ugly, even.

So how could a cosmetics company fail to change the world, if it did things differently?

If it put people and planet before profit, kept its supply chain transparent and its carbon footprint under control.

That’s why I started Ethique. To change the world by doing business differently.

Instead of plastic-heavy packaging that’s carbon-intensive to produce, we use only home-compostable packaging that will break down in soil to return nutrients to the earth. The result is salon-quality shampoo and conditioners with a carbon footprint ten times smaller than liquid equivalents.

We shun palm oil, which is associated with deforestation and unethical working practices, and instead invest in alternatives from ethical, transparent sources: olive oil, coconut oil, rice bran and sugarcane.

Rather than opting for the mass-market option for ingredients, we prioritise direct trade. It means we can be sure our suppliers get a genuinely fair wage and have a source of income year-round, and that we can support them to grow through environmentally friendly farming techniques. It costs us more – by a factor of five or more! – but it’s worth every penny for the planet and we still manage to be profitable.

A cosmetics company sounds frivolous, doesn’t it? Something that could never change the world.

Direct trade is one of the biggest things we do. The alternatives, opaque supply chains and unfair trading practices, keep farmers and producers trapped in a cycle of poverty, and that is where the root of other issues like child labour and child trafficking stem from. It’s of course incredibly complicated, but simply by working with, instead of against producers of ingredients like cocoa butter for chocolate, or palm oil for almost everything in the supermarket, we would lessen these problems and in turn protect the environment.

Admittedly, that’s a lot of different values – or, as some people call them, “constraints”. But really, they’re what power our business. We have been profitable since 2017. From 2016, to 2019 we grew 999% (really would have liked just 1% more there), and we have continued to grow through the pandemic. We are available in retail stores in 22 countries, with a big footprint in six of them, have a solid online business that services 43 countries and offices and warehouses in New York, London, Leeds and Tennessee. The team has exploded from just eight in 2020, to 35 now. And late in 2020, we closed a very large investment round that has enabled us to grow faster and remove more plastic bottles from distribution. That number now sits at over 20 million.

We have managed to do all of this, despite all these so called “restrictions” that I have placed on the company, like being cruelty free, regenerative, climate positive and so on. And the reason for that is because consumers are more educated and aware than ever before. They are demanding better from brands: more transparency, more accountability and better choices. Unfortunately for the mega corporates of the world, it is very hard to turn a big ship fast, and consumers can see through their empty promises and delayed pledges to be carbon neutral by 2040, or to be deforestation free by 2035. They want them to do better now, which is why the rise of social enterprises, or for-profit businesses

with purpose, are being founded and being invested in faster than ever before.

What I am trying to say, is that managed right, a business that is socially and environmentally sustainable, is also financially sustainable. Try not to see values and genuine commitments to the environments as constraints or restrictions. Instead, see them as an opportunity to change the world and the driving force behind your business.

Don’t forget the power of purpose. Having a purpose beyond making profit means people care about your company and your message and drives brand loyalty. So make sure you have something that actually matters. It can be anything that matters to you – it doesn’t need to be some big grandiose purpose. But it does need to be something that actually matters to you, that you centre your organisation around. This is why Ethique has been as successful as it is.

And finally, be different.

I see a lot of businesses out there, where the founder struggles to say what is different about their product versus the others on the market. If you can’t say why your product is different to the others out there on the market, how can a customer? You have to make choosing your product a no-brainer. It can be something product related, like quality, or that it’s plastic free, or a company quality, like having a donations scheme or being living wage certified. But it has to be something that is relevant to the customer, that your desired target cares about. Not something that is largely irrelevant. I’m always surprised at how many times I come across founders who have just created a product the same as many already out there. I cannot stress this enough, do something different. ■

ABOUT BRIANNE:

Brianne West is a New Zealand entrepreneur and founder and CEO of Ethique, a regenerative beauty and lifestyle brand founded to rid the world of plastic bottles. Fast forward a decade and Ethique is now distributed in more than 22 countries globally, is valued at more than $100 million, and has prevented the manufacture and disposal of over 20 million plastic bottles worldwide.

The beauty industry is anything but beautiful. Downright ugly, even.

THE NATURALLY GOOD BEAUTY VIP

Secret Product Picks

Retail Beauty hosted a bespoke Beauty VIP Experience at the Naturally Good Expo, where a panel of five experts provided cutting-edge insights and knowledge on how to grow within the beauty industry. We spoke to each of them to find out the top three beauty products (or brands) they can’t live without. You’re welcome.

SAMEA MAAKRUN Sasy n Savy, Global Manufacturer & Exporter

Yes Hair Cruise Control Curl Cream – I love using it as it’s creamy and smooth. The active organic ingredients detangles the hair, replace moisture and fill gaps to seal in hydration for lasting polish and hold. It simplifies the hold and curl process.

Phycohealth Sea Scrub – An innovative company who grow seaweed has partnered with local Sydney rock oyster farmers to develop this luxurious seaweed cleanser. It not only strips away pollutants, but it gently helps to shed that four-day older skin layer for radiant skin. Gentle enough to use every day.

Sasy n Savy Golden Silk Shimmer Lotion – I love to use it all year round when I go out in the evening. It easily absorbs into the skin and is enriched with vitamins, antioxidants, nutrients, mineral and protein. It nourishes, hydrates and firms the face and body leaving a subtle shimmer effect on the skin.

BAHAR ETMINAN Brand Maker, Digital Publisher, Consultant, Author, Podcaster

Alcapoc – This is a curated range of four skincare products inspired  by ancient global remedies and ideal for sensitive skin.  The brand has a sophisticated soul and is absolutely beautiful to use.

Mimi – A lifestyle brand is an innovative and welldesigned offer for the Tween hair and beauty market. The founders really understand the psychology of their target customer  and the products are excellent quality.

Frank and Bare Deodorant – This is a beautiful natural brand without sacrificing results. The fragrances are modern and fresh and the range extensive. Nothing hippy or dippy about this collection.

DAVID WILLEY Youth Marketing Australia, Founder

The Aussie Man  Ultimate Anti-Ageing Skincare Kit – Naturally, being my own brand I’m going to pick this one. It has everything a guy needs for great skin.

Aspect Dr Hyaluronic Serum – Seriously hydrating and great for the skin when you just need something that bit stronger.

Hi Smile PAP+ Whitening Powder – This stuff is fantastic and so easy to apply. It genuinely works too!

ALBINA REALE Chemist Warehouse Retail Group, Head of Beauty

Flower Beauty Petal Pout Lip Color Naked Blush – This is my go-to lip color that takes me from Day to Night!  I am a lippy girl and would sleep in it if I could..  Love this brand as it conditions and wears all day, making reapplying effortless.

Avène DermAbsolu Recontouring Mask – My new obsession. This 10-minute mask twice a week is a non-negotiable for me.  Firms, hydrates, and illuminates my skin every time, with its powerhouse of ingredients - pro vitamin C, bakuchiol and niacinamide.

My Organics Restructuring Fluid Potion – I can’t accept to have a bad hair day - and I don’t have to with this! I have been using this for years and nothing comes close.  My hair is coloured, blow dried and straightened regularly. But this magical potion rehydrates and tames with ingredients like avocado and Argan oil to protect each strand.

DEMMIE VASILEVSKI Chemist Warehouse, Category Buyer - Cosmetics & Beauty Tools

Maybelline Lifter Gloss Ice This lipgloss is my everyday ride or die lip-gloss! A perfect sheer gloss that hydrates my lips with its hyaluronic acid properties providing hydrating for hours on end. Not to mention its gorgeous packaging feels super luxe in my handbag.

Flower Foundation Buffing Brush – This is my go to foundation brush for an even and smooth complexion. The sturdy handle and soft bristles allow an even distribution of product – this brush is easily comparable to high end makeup brushes at a quarter of the price!

Revlon Beauty Tool Jade Facial Roller – A tool I can’t live without! The Revlon Beauty Tool Jade Facial Roller is made from real jade and is a must in my skin preparation routine. Prior to my makeup application I use this facial roller to reduce puffiness and boost circulation for a tight and lifted effect.

www.naturallygood.com.au

Out & About

NATURALLY GOOD

Retail Beauty hosted an inaugural Beauty VIP Experience at Naturally Good Expo, held at Sydney’s International Convention Centre. All panellists engaged in a Q&A session, providing the audience with cutting-edge insights on how to grow within the beauty industry. This was just one of the highlights of the expo, which was declared the most successful show since the start of the pandemic. The annual two-day B2B expo – the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere – showcased more than 200 exhibitors from around the nation in diverse areas of beauty, food, beverages, health and homewares, as well as more than 30 influential business speakers. This year the beauty and personal care industry was well-represented with many brands featuring innovative products with added health benefits. Beauty was also front and centre at the first-ever 2022 Naturally Good Awards event, where Ethique was crowned Best Beauty & Cosmetics Product for its Curliosity Solid Conditioner & Co-wash for Curly Hair. The expo will return to Sydney next year in June at the ICC. www.naturallygood.com.au

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty.

panel from

Youth Marketing Australia Founder David Willey, host Nicci Herrera, Sasy n Savy Founder Samea Maakrun, podcaster Bahar Etminan and Albina Reale and Demmie Vasilevski from Chemist Warehouse.

DREAM BALL

After a two-year hiatus, more than 500 of the cosmetic industry’s most generous supporters came together at The Star, Sydney to celebrate Dream Ball in support of Look Good Feel Better.

Guests wasted no time taking to the dance floor, with Samantha Jade getting the party started early in the evening and DJ Havana Brown ending the night on a high.

The charity’s Patron, Kerri-Anne Kennerly, was back with a bang as Master of Ceremonies and ambassadors Eleanor Pendleton, Leigh Campbell, and Zoe-Foster Blake, accompanied by husband Hamish, joined as special guests for the evening.

The annual event raises vital funds that allow Look Good Feel Better to provide their confidence-building program to cancer patients around the country. Thanks to the generous supporters in the cosmetic and fragrance industries, their important partners in retailing, media, publishing, and supply, and other members of the charity’s community, a phenomenal $355,500 was raised. This means 3,555 Australians can now benefit from the Look Good Feel Better program over the coming 12 months.

Rosi Fernandez, Chair of the Cancer Patients Foundation Board thanked the industry on the evening. “As crucial members of our community of supporters, our sincere gratitude goes to all of you. Your endless generosity with donating the product that allows our workshops to run each and every year, and your financial contributions - throughout the year and of course tonight - are testament to the very real impact we can all make when we pledge to use our positions and expertise to make a real difference.”

For 32 years, the unwavering support of the industry has meant that more than 170,000 Australians have had the opportunity to learn practical strategies to manage the physical, psychological and social impacts of cancer treatment. The charity thanks all who helped make the night such a huge success. For partnership opportunities or to be a part of Dream Ball 2023, email Partnerships Manager Danielle Lill at danielle.lill@lgfb.org.au.

GLORIOUS GARDEN PARTY

Guests took part in an immersive experience transporting them into a world filled with colour at the WANDERful World Blush Collection launch. A total of eleven shimmering shades of blush were showcased, in addition to the cult Benefit favourite, Hoola Bronzer, which has been around for an incredible 21 years. Guests were invited to visit each colour matching station, plus indulge in some flower arranging and candle making for the launch, held at a private residence in Vaucluse. The blushes are infused with freshwater pearl and synthetic sapphire for a luminous, smoothing effect. www.benefitcosmetics.com/en-au

The event was held at Vaucluse.

A guest is colour matched.

Candle making at the  event.

Jack Owen Bennett.

BASTILLE DAY CELEBRATION

Lancôme united beauty lovers through the universal aspiration of happiness in an Evening with Lancôme, held at The Grounds of Eveleigh. Joined by Australian media personality Jesinta Franklin, the event marked Lancôme’s commitment to creating a happier tomorrow through Lancôme’s global Write

Future program, empowering women through mentorship and education. It was also the official launch of My Lancôme Rewards, designed to surprise and delight loyal customers. www.lancome.com.au

event was held on Bastille Day.

dined at The Grounds of Eveleigh.

Franklin.

RISE AND SHINE

Sunday Riley founded Sunday Riley Modern Skincare on a shoestring budget back in 2009, and since then, has gone from strength to strength. The latest formula to hit the shelves is the CEO Afterglow Brightening Vitamin C Gel Cream. To celebrate the launch in Australia, media and influencers were invited to a breakfast event to celebrate the launch of the gel cream at a private residence in Darling Point where host Gemma Watts shared some insightful quotes from the Houston-born-andbred founder. www.mecca.com.au/sunday-riley

01. Host Gemma Watts.

Retail Beauty editor Michelle Ruzzene with Mecca staff.

Jessica Durrington, Sunday Riley Senior Manager, PR & Influencer Marketing.

MULTITASKING MASKS

Minenssey launched its Multimasking Range with a ‘Nourish Your Skin, Heal Your Soul’ event at The Grounds. The Multimasking Range gives you the power to customise your masking routine based on your skincare requirements, said Minenssey founder Cheryl Ross. Rather than applying one mask to the entirety of your complexion, select one of three masks – T-Zone Refining Mask, Z-Night Restore Mask, and O-Polish Enzyme Resurfacing Mask – to target your unique skin concerns and unlock your glow. https://minenssey.com

Host Nikki Phillips.

Minenssey founder Cheryl Ross addresses media.

Bend by Courtney guides a meditation

SHAKE IT UP

UK brand Shakeup Cosmetics is “on a mission to break down the barriers and stigma around men’s cosmetics”. The brand was founded in 2019 by twin brothers, Shane Carnell-Xu and Jake Xu, who struggled for years to find the perfect cosmetics products that were best suited for their needs. So after extensive research, they set out to create their own range of vegan, cruelty-free cosmetic products, designed specifically for men’s skin types and concerns. The brand, distributed by Chemcorp International, and launched in Australia in May, is available at Myer and online beauty retailers Lookfantastic and Adore Beauty. To celebrate the launch, an intimate cocktail party was at O Bar and Dining, Sydney with host Kris Smith, where Michael Brown colour-matched guests. PR by 360PR. www.shakeupcosmetics.com

Joel Notley, Tim Dormer and Johnson Ashak.

Host Kris Smith.

Celebrity makeup artist Michael Brown.

From left Lisa Solomons from 360PR, Erica Galea from Chemcorp, Michael Brown, Kris Smith, and Jessica Kalogeras and Sylvia Lechowicz from Chemcorp.

Shakeup Cosmetics founders Shane Carnell-Xu and Jake Xu.

A guest is colour matched by Michael Brown.

ANIMAL INSTINCT

Roja Dove is a British perfumer whose fragrances are sold at department stores worldwide and distributed in Australia through Agence de Parfum. Born and raised in Sussex, Roja began his career in perfumery in 1981 when he joined the French perfume house Guerlain, and in 2011, he set up Roja Parfums. He spoke via video to guests who gathered at QT Sydney in The George Room, which was turned into a mini jungle, for the launch of his latest juice, Apex. Roja said Apex was inspired by “primal instincts”. Celebrating the natural wonders of the world and all who roam it, Apex is fresh, fruity chypré accord with spiritual and sensual undertones. PR by Élysée Collective. www.libertineparfumerie.com.au

SUPER SUPPLEMENTS

Launched in 2008, New Zealand brand Go Healthy is the number one supplements brand in its home country, with its focus on product purity, potency and innovation. It announced the expansion of its Australian offering with the launch of a brand-new range – Go Healthy Pro Series – to media over lunch at 12-Micron, Barangaroo. The Pro Series range includes 18 new products designed to support overall health and wellbeing. Go Healthy launched in Australia in early 2018, rolling out more than 60 products into pharmacies nationwide. Go Healthy Australia’s General Manager, Alex McDonald, said: “We now partner with around 1500 pharmacies in the Australian market. We’ve got a great range, about 100 products and growing.” PR by Soda Communications. Some products in the Go Healthy range. www.gohealthy.com.au

Director,

Australia General Manager,

TAKE YOUR VITAMINS

Former MasterChef Australia star Jimmy Seervai launched Life Botanics earlier this year with three initial formulations, Stress + Anxiety, Hair + Energy, and Digestion + Skin, which kicked off a ‘vitamins war’ with rival company JS Health, owned by Jessica Sepel, that has played out on social media. The newest additions to the Life Botanics range include Debloat + Detox, Libido + Energy and Skin Hydration + Hyaluronic Acid, which were showcased over a celebrity packed lunch at Rashays Restaurant, with stunning brand ambassador Jodi Gordon in attendance. Speaking exclusively with Retail Beauty, Jodi said Life Botanics was “a wonderful Australian brand making quality vitamins that were affordable to all”. The award-winning former Neighbours and Home & Away actor, who earlier this year entered a facility for alcohol rehabilitation, said she had since made some “big changes” in her life and that she was focused on a healthy lifestyle. PR by Markson Sparks. https://lifebotanics.com.au.

Have you met...

JADE KISNORBO

Australian celebrity hair and makeup artist

HOW DID YOU GET INTO MAKEUP?

I did a degree in physiology (scientific study of functions and mechanisms in a living system) but when I finished, I worked really hard in sales job and I hated it! My husband (Patrick Kisnorbo, head coach at A-League club Melbourne City) and I were living in England at the time, and every time someone came over, I would always do their hair and makeup – I loved making people feel good. So, I spent all my money on the BEST make-up school in London, and since that day, I’ve never looked back.

Australian celebrity hair and makeup artist Jade Kisnorbo has a reputation for creativity, versatility and producing simply flawless looks. Jade’s knowledge and capabilities across hair, skincare and make up has led her to become a premium ambassador for some of the largest beauty brands both locally and internationally. Michelle Ruzzene caught with the working mum to see what it takes to be one of the most influential MUAs in the country.

WHERE DID YOU LEARN YOUR SKILLS?

By saying yes to everything! When I finished my course in London, I remember one of the teachers saying that only five per cent of us would actually make it in this industry. It took seven years for me to really hone my skills in London, before we moved back to Melbourne, and I felt as though I was starting all over again. But I was fortunate enough to meet such kind people - in Melbourne people help each other. In London, no-one really helps you, you’re pretty much on your own. You’re only as good as your last jobthat’s really the motto I live by.

MOST REWARDING PART OF THE JOB?

I learn something from every single person I meet. You almost have a spiritual connection with them – in that intimate moment they’re sharing things with you that probably they haven’t with others. You really learn a lot about people from all walks of life. I also love the art of it. You ask the client: ‘What do you want? What do you want to feel? What are you wearing today?’ It’s such a process that you go through. You must ask the right questions to get the right outcome. It’s such a beautiful process and by the end of it, when they look in the mirror, it makes you feel so good. I’ve also made some of my best friends through work.

YOUR BEAUTY ICON?

Lisa Eldridge – she is one of the most experienced and respected makeup artists on the international fashion and beauty circuits. Her YouTube tutorials are amazing. She is just so clever. Celebrity wise, J-Lo because she’s always been so beautiful and healthy, and Hailey Bieber is just always so stunning.

Jade's beauty icons include

Lisa Eldridge,

J-Lo and

Hailey Bieber.

YOUR ADVICE TO BUDDING MAKEUP ARTISTS?

Every single person has a network. Even if it’s your mum, think about any opportunity that you can use. Be persistent, make that follow-up phone call and check in with any potential opportunities. Be flexible. If someone calls and you’ve only got 15 minutes notice, make it work. And lastly, have your own goals. Work towards your own idea of success, not everyone else’s.

YOUR GO-TO SPRING BEAUTY LOOK?

I do love a good cream bronzer. And sticking to the basic, like having beautiful, fresh skin with really well-groomed brows and lashes. Take the time to add a few layers of mascara. And nice nude eyeliner to look awake and bright.

AND WHAT’S ONE PRODUCT YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT?

Concealer! I’m a serial concealer purchaser, I buy them all the time. You can create a whole look with concealer, just layering it, or by mixing it into moisturiser. It’s a must for evening out skin tone.

THE WORST MAKEUP FAUX PAS?

Blocky brows. It’s fine to add volume and to add shape to them, but not from the very first hair – otherwise you get that blocky shape at the start. People go a little bit too crazy sometimes with their brows. ■

Jade holds online makeup masterclasses. Her next one will be Wednesday, October 20 at 7.45pm. More info at https://jadekisnorbo.com

You’re only as good as your last jobthat’s really the motto I live by.

What is Dopamine Beauty

By Michael Brown

Makeup is the best self-expression in my opinion, even more than fashion. Both can be fun, creative and colourful. Or on the flipside, it can be downplayed and tonal. But as makeup is for the face, and we all know no two faces are the same, I feel the uniqueness of makeup expression is even stronger than fashion. The two really can play off each other, with a hint more expression and creativity through makeup.

Over the past few years we have seen a big rise in skincare awareness, knowledge and general skin health (thank you Covid-19 lockdowns), which I’m not mad about.

As a makeup artist, I have been aware for a very long time what a big part skincare plays into makeup application and longevity of wear.

We have seen trends such as Glass Skin, Dolphin Skin and of course, the ‘No Makeup’ makeup look. All of these have had a few things in common - great skin prep, skincare infused makeup

Boost your mood, and your look, with this latest trend.

formulas and that neutral toned, fresh faced beauty. I mean, you can’t go wrong!

As we move away from colder months, layering rich textured moisturisers to give our skin any glow possible from the cold and rainy days, we are seeing big trends in using more colour on our face. From eyes, to cheeks and lips, this one one trend we’ll be seeing a LOT of… Dopamine Beauty!

WHAT IS DOPAMINE BEAUTY?

Dopamine Beauty is using colour accents within makeup artistry to lift your mood. It’s proven that colour can be uplifting and remind you of certain memories, places or events, or just being attracted to certain colours can increase dopamine reactions and emotions within ourselves that can be blissful, motivating and addictive . It’s similar to how some fragrance scents can be, it can take us on a journey or to a place or feeling.

The colour category in makeup artistry has increased dramatically of late with more brands adding more shades to keep up with demands of higher sales of coloured makeup.

I remember a time when I worked for a large cosmetic group and retailers were constantly discontinuing bright shades of makeup, as sales were lower than neutral toned shades. But, colour bars in-store can start looking very ‘beige’, and uninviting or exciting, which obviously then doesn’t attract customers to come and look, test and play. So, for me personally, I am so excited to see the rise of colour within makeup looks, which can definitely play a big part to your mood, creativity and confidence in general.

HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH COLOUR?

Like everything, there needs to be balance for a look to really come together, but in saying that, there really are no rules with makeup artistry. However, there are just a few guidelines when it comes to application and highlight and shade choices, which I’ll explain below.

One thing we have to remember is not to take away what we have learnt from the recent past trends of the no makeup, makeup look.

Keep up the good skin prep, even add the glass skin and neutral highlight and shade tones to give the face structure and definition.

But instead of keeping everything neutral, add a pop lip for a playful look, or a bold lip for a bold glam statement – adding in the smallest amount of colour can bring out more personality or the vibe you want to portray.

For the eyes, coloured liners back, big time! Graphic lines, wings and cut crease looks are all over social media and yes, you may choose to keep these neutral or monochrome. But think about adding a coloured shade on top of your neutral line drawn - it’s just a hint and will up the mood to your look.

A pop coloured shadow in the inner eye tear duct area of the eye can boost and lift your neutral colour palette eye shadow look or using colours to add contouring structure to your eye area, rather than the typical neutral shades.

IF YOU ALWAYS REMEMBER THE CONTOURING RULES;

Light and bright shades bring an area forward to lift and matte or deeper shades recedes and area to create more of a hollow, then you will still give your eyes a defined, structured look it needs.

Remember, it’s all in the self -expression, nothing is off-limits and you just be you! Enjoy the feeling makeup can do for you,

your customers and others around you – it can really attract people!

So this Spring/Summer, try some colour, from the tiniest hint (maybe a brighter blush) to coloured graphic eyes, it’s all what you are comfortable with.

Top Tip: For any motivation or inspiration, just watch Ru Paul’s Drag Race, tone it down a notch, and you are ready for that dopamine rush! ■

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au

For the eyes, coloured liners back, big time!

@d.aleksandria

Makeup as a form of

Art Therapy

by Tashi Jade Bell

I was first diagnosed as having depression and anxiety over ten years ago. I was working as lawyer in a big international firm and I was ‘high functioning’. My firm was understanding to a point but operating at a high functioning level wasn’t sustainable for me.

Iworked hard and was available 24/7 for my clients for over ten years. A usual work week for me was working from 7am until 2am and then working through the weekend, often in the office. The partners of the firm all witnessed this, but I kept getting more projects piled on me. To them, I was just a “CGU” - a Cash Generating Unit.

I ultimately lost my job after a nervous breakdown at the office. With that, I lost all sense of self. My world collapsed around me. I didn’t know who I was anymore, as I had poured my heart and soul into my job as a lawyer. I made many sacrifices including putting off having children as well, which I bitterly regret. All of my personal sacrifices came to naught.

Now almost after six years of having lost my job as a lawyer, I have what is called ‘treatment resistant depression and anxiety’. I’ve tried over 15 different anti-depressants, had Electroconvulsive Therapy(ECT) and Electromagnetic Therapy (EMT) treatments and stints at private mental health institutions. I also tried cognitive behaviour therapy which didn’t work for me. So, with that, I am in medical retirement. These days, I fill my “good days” with my hobbies which are beauty and fashion-related content creation.

MAKEUP AS A FORM OF ART THERAPY

I now use makeup as a form of art therapy and self-expression. Art was one of the subjects that I took in high school that I excelled in and enjoyed. I loved painting portraits and photography.

I could be painting and doing photography, but makeup as an art form is so much more fun. The different textures and smells do appeal to me. From having painted on large canvases, I get the

challenge of working on ‘canvases’ (my models) that are much smaller and all with different skin textures. I am a self-taught makeup artist. I’ve simply transferred my skills as an artist painting on canvases to painting on faces.

I’ve been doing a series of makeup looks called #arttherapy on my Instagram @paint_bytashijadebell. The series allows me to push my creative boundaries and serves as an art form that combines painting/drawing, fashion styling, graphic design and photography.

I find this form of ‘art’ to be therapeutic and it helps me to cope with my mental health issues. To me, it is like the practice of Tibetan monks who create and then destroy intricate mandalas made from coloured sand. It is mediative for me and gives my mind something beautiful to focus on.

When I was first approached to contribute to Retail Beauty, I was asked to do an article on this #arttherapy series. So, I’ve decided to approach this in a ‘who, what, when, where, why’ format.

THE ‘WHO’

My models or ‘canvases’ as I call them, come from all walks of life. Some of them don’t even have an interest in makeup, but are quite happy to sit for me. I love working on different skin types and there are no limits on age, gender and/or race.

I like to make it fun for my canvases, so sometimes, it’s a glass of Moët or feeding them yummy food.

THE ‘WHAT’

I like trying out different techniques in applying makeup. I am also always on the lookout for products that I can use for a look.

I also don’t really use makeup products as they are intended to be used. For example, I often use eyeshadows and clear lip gloss to create a lip colour. I also like creating my own glitter for the eyes and the face.

I love colour, so my looks are often colourful. I like to experiment with different and unusual colour combos. I’m so happy that the HBO hit Euphoria started the free (and colourful) makeup trend. Makeup should be a form of self-expression. I really love experimenting with different textures and my looks often include the use of glitter, edible gold foil and crystal embellishments.

‘The What’ also addresses the question of what products I use. I love beauty products and I’m not a brand snob. I often use both drugstore and high-end makeup. As I love colour, some of my most used items come from Mecca Max, Revolution Makeup, Maybelline, NYX, L’Oréal, Kosas, Pat McGrath, About Face Beauty, Norvina Cosmetics, Natasha Denona, Tarte and KVD Beauty.

I love About Face Beauty as their values and attitudes towards makeup as a form of self-expression resonate with me. I used their Matte Fluid Eye Paints to create my ‘Dots’ look. That was a time consuming one to do and each dot is applied using a nail art dotting tool. My other most reached for products come from Kosas, as they are makeup with skincare benefits.

I like to use different types of tools to apply makeup. I’ve used nail art dotting tools and spatulas in a few of my looks. I also often use my hands (sanitised of course) to apply makeup. I’m always on the lookout for ‘tools’. A lot of the products I use were gifted to me, but I also spend a significant amount of my own money to purchase products. I like discovering beauty gems and emerging indie brands. I’m also very often in art stores looking for different tools. I’ve used art brushes/sponges to achieve different results.

THE ‘WHEN’

Anytime really. When you are in medical retirement at a relatively young age, you find things to do on better days. I like creating time consuming intricate looks. So, if time permits, I’ll go for a full crystal embellished look. Usually, my ‘canvases’ can only stay for a few hours, so I do try to plan out the looks. I create a list of the products that I want to use as well as planning for the number of looks.

I also do makeup looks on myself, especially if it is a very time consuming one. I spent a whole day creating my #pridemonth look. Each crystal was glued on individually.

This form of art is temporal. There is something calming and oddly satisfying about the removal of makeup that might have taken hours to apply.

THE ‘WHERE’

I draw inspiration from all areas, from music to books and perfumes and fashion. Some of my looks are inspired by fantasy or historical characters - like my ‘Sun and Moon God/dess’ and ‘Viking Queen’ looks. I also take inspiration from nature, as seen in my ‘Koi Pond’ look. Sometimes, the looks are inspired by my model’s personality. As an example, the ‘Forever Young’ look I did was very much inspired by the fun personality of my canvas, Tutti.

THE ‘WHY’

I do it as a form of self-expression and as a form of meditation. A lot of work is involved, from selecting/sourcing what products and props I want to use, to the graphic design element and photo retouching. The behind the scenes work also makes me improve my skills on various new design programs. When I am sticking on tiny crystals on someone’s face, I have to focus. I also worry I might poke someone in the eye/mouth! When I am working with ‘canvases’, it is also therapeutic that I have this person-to-person interaction. My depression and anxiety has made me a bit of recluse, so this personal interaction is valuable to me. ■

By Tashi Jade Bell @paint_bytashijadebell www.paintbytashijadebell.com

My Pride look.

Forever Young with Tutti.

Some of my favourite products.

Super Hair

Power greens are not just for smoothies! SheaMoisture has launched its Moringa & Avocado collection, formulated with a superfood blend to nourish, revitalise, and leave hair seven times shiner. It features four products in the collection - Moringa & Avocado Power Greens Shampoo, Moringa & Avocado Power Greens Conditioner, Moringa & Avocado Power Greens Reconstructor and Moringa & Avocado Power Greens Hair Tea Rinse. Each product is infused with moringa to strengthen and coat weak hair strands for a thicker, fuller appearance and avocado, loaded with potassium and amino acids to keep hair moisturised, shiny and supple. The power greens blend is a blend of moringa, kale and matcha tea to deliver powerful nourishment. https://sheamoisture.com.au

Sweet Lips

One Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask sells every three seconds worldwide. The South Korean cosmetics brand, owned by Amore Pacific, has launched its new Sweet Candy and Mango (Limited Edition) Lip Sleeping Mask flavours with an upgraded formula. This nourishing leave-on lip mask soothes and moisturises for smoother, more supple lips overnight. Enriched with Vitamin C and coconut oil, its berry mix complex offers a nutritiously sweet and fragrant blend of pomegranate, grape and raspberry juices to help condition lips. Its exclusive moisture wrap technology boasts hyaluronic acid and minerals to form a protective film over the lips to lock in moisture and active ingredients. Laneige is currently Sephora Australia’s #1 product in lip care. Available at Adore Beauty, Sephora Australia and New Zealand. www.laneige.com

Date Night

Dr Chris Moss, his wife Andrea Moss and the Liberty Belle Rx team have launched their incredible new anti-ageing and leaveon Date Night Deep Hydration Mask. The mask is formulated with a selection of actives and supporting ingredients that include ceramides, skin identical lipids, papaya extract, hydration saccharide, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, squalane, vitamin E, avocado oil and acai sterols. Date Night optimises deep and surface hydration, strengthening skin barrier integrity and function while the papaya extract gently exfoliates to help promote cell turnover. Date Night is formulated for all skin types including sensitive skin and is protected using the Liberty Belle Rx airless technology. Australian made and vegan friendly. Available exclusively at libertybellerx.com and at David Jones. https://libertybelle.com.au

Hemp Hero

BodyBlendz has launched a revolutionary Hemp Hero body range. Utilising a special concentration of 10 per cent coldpressed hemp seed oil, grown in Australia, the trio of products energise and regenerate the skin, while unclogging pores and diminishing the appearance of uneven, bumpy skin. The range includes Hemp Hero Body Wash, Hemp Hero Coffee Scrub and Hemp Hero AHA Lotion. The products are suitable for all skin types and consist of only vegan and natural ingredients. https://au.bodyblendz.com

Reuse, Recycle

Dove has launched a Triple Moisturising 1.5L Re-Fill Body Wash Pouch to help care for the planet. The new re-fill pouch features 50 per cent more product and 70 per cent less plastic when compared to the original 1L Dove Triple Moisturising Body Wash. The re-fill pouch still has the same nourishing formula as the 1L pump bottle, being kind to the skin for lasting nourishment and protecting its microbiome. Simply fill up the empty 1L bottle with the resealable refill pouch, and return the pouch to any RedCycle Bin when empty. The new 1.5L Dove Re-fill Triple Moisturising Body Wash Pouch is available now at Woolworths and Coles supermarkets nationwide and independent retailers. www.dove.com/au

Better than Ever

Better Brand takes a unique approach to fragrances, breaking free of traditions by creating three gender neutral scents, encouraging people to explore their identity, express themselves and celebrate their freedoms. To be better, the brand has created distinctly different fragrances made from chemical free Australian botanicals and native extracts. Packaged in 100 per cent recyclable and sustainable fragrance keepers, Better Brand also offers refills and a buyback program. These packaging solutions assist in

reducing greenhouse gas emissions and keeps products out of landfill. The Better Brand fragrance family includes: Ocean Wild, Fresh Intent and Smoky Notes, each individually available in three forms: solid, serum or mist. Ocean Wild: Notes of Saffron + Coconut Water + Ginger + Sea Salt + Driftwood. Fresh Intent: Notes of Fresh Earth + Herbs + Saffron + Tobacco Leaf + Hints of Tea + Fresh Rhubarb. Smoky Notes: Notes of Soft smoke + Suede Leather + Tobacco Leaf + Dry Grass. www.thebetterbrand.com.au

Fresh Fragrance

Back and better than ever is the revamped Fresh Signature Scent Collection. From energising citruses to floral escapes, the Signature Scent Collection features five forward-looking fragrances: Hesperides Grapefruit

Eau de Parfum, a blend of crisp citrus and clean florals; Rose Morning Eau de Parfum, a romantic and velvety floral bouquet; Sugar Lemon Eau de Parfum, a balance of zesty citrus notes with a hint of sweetness; Sugar Lychee Eau de Parfum, a fruity harmony inspired by the sweet lychee fruit; and Fresh Life Eau de Parfum, an earthy citrus with woody undertones. The collection is available at Sephora, Sephora.com.au and Sephora.com.nz. www.fresh.com/au

Get Glowing

In the short time they’ve been on Australian shelves, Glow Lab’s signature natural skincare, haircare and body care products have quickly become popular with consumers who are looking for genuinely effective, ingredient-rich solutions that are affordable but deliver high-end results. The products are made in New Zealand by a clever, wee team of science and cosmetic chemists on-site. Glow

Lab Cream Body Wash Triple Moisturising is a deeply nourishing cream body wash, enriched with the hydrating benefits of glycerin, shea butter, coconut oil and vitamin E, which means softer, smoother skin. Glow Lab’s superhydrating friends betaine and pro-vitamin B5 further hydrate and help to maintain the skin’s moisture barrier. This is a gentle formulation, suitable for all skin types. Glow Lab is available at Woolworths, Coles, Big W and Chemist Warehouse. www.glowlab.co.nz

Second Life

Hand and body wash bottles can be given a second life with Ecoya’s fragranced Hand & Body Wash Refills that are now available as part of their popular bodycare collection. The refills are available in four of their bestselling bodycare fragrances: Guava & Lychee Sorbet, French Pear, Lotus Flower and Sweet Pea & Jasmine. Ecoya products are founded and nurtured in Botany Bay Australia, designed in Auckland New Zealand and handcrafted in Australia. In a one litre refill pouch, this collection is vegan friendly and free from parabens, propylene glycol, silicone and artificial colours. www.ecoya.com.au

Premier Skincare

French skincare brand Caudalie outlines eight age markers; wrinkles, fine lines, loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, loss of volume, dehydration, dark spots and loss of radiance. After 10 years of research, Dr David Sinclair, an Australian professor of genetics and co-director of Harvard Medical School’s Paul F Glenn Center for Biology of Ageing Research, discovered an enzyme named TET (Ten-Eleven Translocation), that enables skin ageing to be reversed. The Caudalie Natural Formulation Laboratory worked to find a pharmaceutic active ingredient capable of boosting this TET enzyme, and found Honokiol, from magnolia and obtained by eco-extraction. Combined with resveratrol, its effects are multiplied, enabling it to act directly on the skin’s youth proteins and correct the eight sings of ageing. It has been named TET8 and it can be found in the new Caudalie Premier Cru collection, which includes Premier Cru The Cream, which is refillable, Premier Cru The Eye Cream and Premier Cru The Serum. Available at Sephora and Sephora.com.au. https://en.caudalie.com

Green is Good

The mantra at Hemptuary is ‘green is good’. That’s why at Hemptuary they have chosen to use organic hemp seed oil as their hero ingredient, known for its rich, antioxidant properties and its ability to calm, hydrate and revitalise the skin. Nutrient rich and filled with vitamins A and E and omegas 3 and 6, this wonder oil works to promote skin health by regulating the skin’s oil production without clogging pores. Made in New Zealand, Hemptuary products use gentle, result-driven formulas that work—creating some of the best hemp skincare in Australasia. All products have recyclable packaging, cruelty-free, naturally fragranced, GMO free, paraben free, silicone free and sulphate free. www.hemptuary.com.au

Signature Scent

Born from a collective and intrinsic appreciation towards the ethereal qualities and emotive capabilities of fragrance, Owners Ciara Mahoney and Elle Wallace gave light to SŚAINT. Speaking to a new generation of conscious consumers, SŚAINT offers cruelty-free, clean, gender-neutral scents, handcrafted in Sydney. SŚAINT’s core range includes four signature scents, Twenty Two, Cosmic Bang, Smokeshow and Modus Vivendi. Each scent has been carefully curated to offer a unique character of self, an allencompassing ode to experience, aspirations and olfactory memories. While is already stocked at multiple outlets, including The Iconic and A-Beauty, it is now also available at Sephora Australia. www.ssaint.com.au

Advertiser index

Alcapoc Pages 36-37 www.alcapoc.com.au

Billy Goat

Inside back cover www.heatgroup.com.au

Bioderma Pages 25 and 39 www.bioderma.com.au

Ethique

Inside front cover, 3 www.ethique.com.au

Hemptuary Pages 4-5 www.hemptuary.co.nz

In Essence

Front and back cover www.inessence.com.au

Inspire Brands

Pages 27 and 29 www.inspirebrands.com.au

Mimi Kids Pages 36-37 www.mimihaircare.com.au

Nude By Nature

Pages 42-45 www.nudebynature.com.au

Pod Organics Pages 36-37 www.podorganics.com.au

Redrinks Page 11 www.redrinks.co

Shea Moisture Page 13 www.chemcorp.com.au

Skin Control Pages 32-35 www.skincontrol.com.au

Skin Physics Pages 6-7 www.skinphysics.com.au

The Herb Farm Pages 36-37 www.theherbfarm.com.au

The Jojoba Company Pages 8-9 www.thejojobacompany.com.au

United Brands Page 15 www.unitedbrands.com.au

Weleda

Pages 21 and 23 www.weleda.com.au

Wotnot Naturals

Pages 36-37 www.wotnot.com.au

Delivering holistic health and wellbeing solutions through the power of Pure Essential Oils backed by science.