Taste & Flair September 2023

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ISSUE 158 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 2023 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 Feed your imagination ENTERTAINING • FOOD • WINE • ARCHITECTURE • INTERIORS

WELCOME

September is a bitersweet time of year. It’s still summer, but autumn is already creeping in, heralded by sultry weather and a back-to-school feeling that some remember only too well. With the shifing seasonal mood in mind, Michelin plate awardee Michael Diacono prepared a late summer menu that even the most inexperienced host can handle and serve for lunch or dinner. His secret? Prepare everything in advance:

“the last thing you need is a mad rush with the doorbell ringing and guests standing outside while you’re still in the shower.” Andrew Azzopardi has some fine advice on which wines to serve with the menu and tells you all you need to know about wine’s aromas and flavours. Claire Borg picked the proverbial grove of lemons that she turned into lush desserts and savoury dishes infused with a citrussy tang. If you’re looking to hang onto the summer feeling for a while longer, try her biscuit tortoni. James Beard Award–winning author and photographer Meike Peters shares the recipes for some of her “simple, satisfying, and scrumptious meals to feed our midday cravings”. Her luscious, colourful dishes are a feast for the eyes and easy to prepare for a quick lunch at work or an indulgent evening in. In our architecture and interior design section, we tour a newly built contemporary family home and take a look inside a small, old house tucked away in a courtyard at the heart of a village. We hope you enjoy the read. We’ll be back again in October.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Cinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta

Editorial Board

Paul Caruana Galizia

Andrew Caruana Galizia

Matthew Caruana Galizia

Executive Editor

Corinne Vella

Editorial Assistants

Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia

Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net

Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor

Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt

Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt

Production Manager

André Camilleri

Production Assistant Conrad Bondin

The Grape Harvest (1884) - LéonAugustin Lhermitte’s large-scale oil-oncanvas painting, his fourth in as many years, cemented his reputation as a painter of modern rural life and earned him the admiration of Vincent Van Gogh for his masterful and sympathetic presentation of the vineyard workers. A gift in 1887 from art dealer William Schaus, the painting is now displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Prepress & Printing Print It

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com

No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the writen prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888

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8 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 EDITORIAL
Meike Peters’ Roasted Squash, Parsnip, and Grape &
Salad with Blue Cheese. See feature on page 44

A selection of Chesterfield style sofas and armchairs available in stock.

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10 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 T&F CONTENTS pg14 pg44 pg74 pg50 pg52 14 That’s entertainment Michael Diacono’s lunch party menu 28 For love of lemons Claire Borg sprinkles sunshine into mealtimes 44 What’s for lunch? Meike Peters’ scrumptious midday meals 50 The nose knows Andrew Azzopardi on wine’s aromas and flavours
Light and shadows Inside a Mediterranean style villa 74 Brighten up How an old house was transformed pg28
52

Agnes & Stephen’s Home Masterpiece

“We’ve lived here for 45 years and that means that we’ve had our fair share of hanging off ladders to repaint our home. It’s been orange, blue, magnolia - you name it! This time, we got some outside help and decided to go for these neutral colours using SigmaFacade for the walls and Sigma Contour PU in Ginger Loaf for the doors and windows. Good thing Sigma is so durable, because we don’t want to think of repainting ever again!

Sigma Coatings is a brand of
Agnes & Stephen T: 2166 8053 | info@sigmamalta.com | sigmamalta.com | SigmaMalta

Hangout at Hank’s

On those days when you crave quality casual eats in a welcoming spot where friends and family can share great times together, look no further than Henry J. Bean’s. More fondly known to regulars as Hank's, this everpopular eatery, located in St. George’s Bay, St. Julian’s, has become more than just your average casual bar and grill over the years. It's an embodiment of the American dining experience right in the heart of Malta.

Walk into Hank's and you’ll be instantly transported to an American-style eatery that looks like it’s straight out of the movies. The interior oozes cosiness. Think dark-wood walls adorned with vintage posters and a bar top that gleams with a polished sheen. Whether you grab a table right by the bar or sink into one of the comfy, leatherupholstered booths, you're always guaranteed retro-diner vibes.

Thanks to the widescreen TVs around the restaurant, Hank’s is a great spot to catch all the latest sporting events with mates over golden pints and sizable platers. At times like these, be sure to check out Hank's Chicago Board of Trade, a hearty combo of ribs, BBQ chicken wings, garlic bread, spicy potato wedges, onion rings, and mozzarella dippers, served with Louisiana sauce and blue cheese dip. It’s a soul-satisfying showcase for what Hank’s food is all about.

With summer still showering its golden rays, why not take your Hank's experience al fresco with a table on the terrace? From here, you can bask in the sunshine and enjoy the sea views. And if you head to Hank’s between 5.30pm and 7.00pm, any day of the week, you can also look forward to a “Happy Hour and a Half” for a fantastic 2-for-1 offer on a wide selection of cocktails, mocktails, and spirits. Raise a glass to great memories under the warm glow of a sunset and let the good times roll.

Of course, the heart of any top-notch eatery is its menu, and Hank's certainly does not disappoint with its celebration of classic comfort foods crafed in true-blue American spirit. The legendary burgers, juicy and packed with fresh ingredients, are an absolute must-try. The mighty Full Throtle burger packs not one, but two beefy 230g paties piled high with smoky bacon, savoury mushrooms, melted cheese, and crispy onion rings. It's a flavour explosion.

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Dive deeper into the menu, and the smokehouse grills are a standout which promise a smoky, savoury sensation with each bite that will leave you yearning for more. The Rackin’ Ribs are one such highlight. Smoked Chicago-style and smothered in a top-secret BBQ sauce, they’re slow-cooked to melt-off-thebone perfection. There’s also a great selection of vegan options, including an “all-leaf, no-beef” burger that will have even the staunchest of meat lovers fooled.

And what's a meal without a sweet ending? Hank's serves a dessert menu that is, to put it simply, sinfully delicious. Keep things classic with a warm Apple Pie served with vanilla ice cream, or dial up the sugar rush even further with fun, creative treats such as the Hank’s Sundae topped with brownie chunks, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream.

All in all, Hank’s prides itself on delivering a truly great, all-round diner experience for everyone in the family. The dedicated kids’ menu features tasty burgers, yummy hot dogs, chunky golden fries, and more. Plus, all diners enjoy free parking at the Corinthia Hotel St. George’s Bay for a hassle-free time, every time.

So, what are you waiting for? Head to Hank's and revel in the best of American dining right here in Malta. Explore the menu and make your reservation on www.henryjbeans.com.mt

13 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 PROMOTION &

LATE SUMMER LUNCH PARTY

My only secret for entertaining at home is preparation. I would never leave more than one dish that needs cooking or finishing off when our guests are at home. The table seting is Janine’s department, in which she excels. I start prepping the day before and plan to have everything ready by early afernoon if guests are coming to dinner, or late morning if they’re invited to lunch. The last thing you need is a mad rush with the doorbell ringing and guests standing outside while you’re still in the shower.

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Styling and photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage 82
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To start PICKLED

LAMPUKI

This dish is great as you need to make it a few days before then just serve it from the preserving jar. Make loads as it lasts for a week at least.

Serves 10

Preparation: 1 hour, plus 2 days to pickle

YOU WILL NEED:

1l white wine vinegar

1l water

300g sugar

1 large lampuka of approximately 2 kg, filleted

2 large carrots

1 large red onion

1 kohlrabi

4 fresh bay leaves

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 tablespoon all spice

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1. Place the vinegar, water, and sugar into a pot and bring it to the boil. Once the sugar is dissolved, take it off the heat and leave it to cool to room temperature.

2. Cut the filleted fish into 2cm cubes, leaving the skin on. Peel and slice the carrots and onions thinly. Remove the atached greens from the kohlrabi, peel and slice it then cut the slices into batons.

3. Place the fish, carrots, onion and kohlrabi into a large sterilised glass jar. Add clean bay leaves, mustard seeds, all spice and peppercorns.

4. Pour the cooled liquid over everything. Cover well with cling film then screw on the top of the jar. Place the jar in the fridge for at least 2 days before using and ALWAYS use clean tongs to serve. I served these with a mustard sauce and yellow cherry tomatoes.

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Mains

GRILLED ACCIOLA

I would naturally leave a simple dish to cook just before serving, and nothing is easier than a grilled piece of fish. I would avoid very bony fish, so these acciola steaks are ideal. When buying the fish ask the fishmonger to cut thick steaks of about 300g each. Keep the rest of the main course simple.

Serves 6 Cooking: 10 minutes, plus a few hours marinating

YOU WILL NEED:

6 steaks of fresh acciola (or any other steak fish) salt and pepper juice of 1 lemon fresh thyme, chopped extra-virgin olive oil

1. Place the fish in a dish and season it with salt and pepper. Pour the lemon juice over the fish steaks and sprinkle them with the chopped thyme. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.

2. Cover the dish with cling film and place it in the fridge till the evening. Remove the dish from the fridge 1 hour before cooking.

3. Heat up the BBQ or grill and simply grill the fish steaks for a few minutes on each side, (approximately 4 mins each side for thick steaks). Baste frequently with the marinade.

4. Serve the freshly-grilled fish on the spinach and pea salad.

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NANNA MARBECK’S FRIED AUBERGINES

My mother-in-law’s semolina dusted aubergines are delicious simplicity. Fry them in the morning you’re serving them.

Serves 6

Preparation and cooking: 90 minutes, including soaking

YOU WILL NEED:

2 medium aubergines

sea salt

semolina

extra-virgin olive oil, to fry

TO GARNISH:

toasted almond flakes

fresh coriander leaves

1. Peel the aubergines and slice them lengthways. Place them into a large bowl, sprinkle with sea salt, then cover with water. Let them stand for 1 hour, then drain them well and pat them dry.

2. Prepare a deep plate filled with semolina. Coat the slices lightly with semolina then shallow fry in extra-virgin olive oil till golden on each side. Drain the cooked slices on kitchen towel before arranging them on a serving plater. Cover the dish with cling film.

3. Just before serving, garnish the cooked aubergine with the toasted almond flakes and fresh coriander leaves.

BABY NEW POTATOES

These are deliciously different. Prepare them the day before serving and keep them chilled until an hour before serving. They’re good heated up in the oven too.

Serves 6 (with some extra)

Preparation and cooking: 1 hour

YOU WILL NEED:

1kg golden baby potatoes, washed • 1 teaspoon sea salt

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped • salt and pepper

1 teaspoon cumin seeds • 1 tablespoon honey

TO SERVE:

250g thick yoghurt (labneh)

1. Place the potatoes into a pot. Cover them with water and add the sea salt. Bring the pot to the boil and cook the potatoes until just tender (approximately 20 minutes). Drain the potatoes and cool them slightly.

2. Pour the extra-virgin olive oil into a large pan. Add the garlic and cook it to sofen but don’t allow it to colour. Add the cumin. Let the pan continue to cook or a second or two.

3. Now, add the drained potatoes and stir them well to coat them, then add the honey and season with salt and pepper.

4. Stir fry the potatoes for a few minutes then transfer them to a serving dish and let them cool. Place the covered dish in the fridge, and bring it out an hour before serving.

5. Serve the potatoes with the yoghurt (labneh) on the side.

20 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 & ENTERTAINING

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ROASTED PUMPKIN & ONION SALAD

The inclusion of sumac gives the salad a sour, citrusy taste which is so intriguing. You will find sumac in the middle eastern section of big supermarkets. Prepare this dish the day before serving.

Serves 6 abundantly

Preparation and cooking:

1 hour, approximately

YOU WILL NEED:

1kg peeled pumpkin or butternut

squash, cut into wedges

2 large red onions, peeled and sliced

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

salt and pepper

a good handful parsley, chopped

2 teaspoons sumac

1. Preheat oven to 180°C

2. Place the pumpkin and onions on a large baking tray. Drizzle with the extra-virgin olive oil and season well. Mix the pumpkin and onion using clean hands, making sure all ithe ngredients are coated with oil.

3. Bake for 40 minutes if you are using pumpkin, stirring occasionally. Buternut squash will take more time.

4. When done, let the pumpkin or squash cool down, then transfer it to a serving dish. Cover the dish with cling film and place it in the fridge.

5. 1 hour before serving, remove the dish from the fridge. Garnish it it with chopped parsley and sprinkle with the sumac.

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BABY SPINACH & PEA SALAD

Refreshing and vibrant, this is the perfect match for oily fish like acciola or lampuki

Serves 6

Preparation and cooking: 20 minutes

YOU WILL NEED:

1 packet baby spinach

200g frozen peas

salt and pepper

For the dressing:

1 teaspoon mustard powder

1 teaspoon sugar

salt and pepper

100ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons water

1. For the dressing, place all the ingredients into a jar and shake it well. Keep it in the fridge till needed.

2. In the morning, simply blanch the peas in salted boiling water, drain them and let them cool.

3. While the fish is grilling, toss the spinach and peas together with some of the dressing and place this onto a serving plater and serve the grilled fish on the salad.

24 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 & ENTERTAINING
Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt www.oxfordhouse.com.mt ELEVATE YOUR KITCHEN WITH NEFF APPLIANCES

To finish WATERMELON PANNACOTTA

This is the perfect way to end a meal on a balmy and humid September evening. You could prepare the dessert 2 days before serving.

Serves 6

Preparation and cooking: 1 hour

YOU WILL NEED:

40g gelatin sheets

200g watermelon

500ml whole milk

150g sweetened condensed milk

20g sugar

1. Place half the amount of the gelatin into a litle cool water and leave it to soak and swell for 15 minutes. Blend the watermelon in a food processor and divide it into 2 equal portions.

2. Place the whole milk into a small pot and bring it to the boil, then turn off the heat and let it cool slightly.

3. Squeeze the gelatin leaves to remove excess moisture then stir them into the milk to dissolve completely. Add the condensed milk and stir well. Add one portion of the processed watermelon and mix well.

4. Pour the mixture into 6 dariole moulds and place them in the fridge for at least 6 hours to set before making the second layer.

5. Repeat the process with the second batch of gelatin as before. Warm the remaining watermelon and dissolve the sugar in it. Press the gelatin leaves to remove excess water then dissolve them in the warm watermelon. Stir very well.

6. Let the mixture cool, then pour it over the set pannacota. Return the dariole moulds to the fridge and leave overnight, at least.

7. To serve, run a very sharp knife around the inside of each mould then turn the moulds onto a serving plate and jolt them to loosen the pannacota. I served these with poached peaches and more processed watermelon.

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Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage 82

When organizing a dinner, I try to find wines that are easy and fresh. It’s not usually the time to get too daring so choose wines that complement the meal without overpowering the flavours or tiring the guests.

Seeing that this is a three-course meal, I would want a wine that can work with both the starter and the main course. A local sparkling wine would be an ideal accompaniment to pickled lampuki , especially if you want to keep the theme local. I wouldn’t opt for a complicated Champagne, but could easily choose prosecco. The sparkling wine can double up as a welcome drink that can also be paired with the starter.

With the main course, of plain grilled acciola, it’s not the time to overcomplicate the wine. Choose a wine that is unoaked, fresh and zingy that will work with the fish - think of the wine as an addition to the lemon on the fish. New Zealand or French Sauvignon Blanc would work wonders, as would an unoaked chardonnay such as Chablis. You can choose a refreshing Italian white such as Pinot Grigio, or a Spanish Albariño, but try to steer away from anything that has too much body or weight.

Some of your guests might not be fond of white wine, so I would still offer a red wine choice. Make sure to keep your choice extremely light and with minimum tannins. I would opt for a young Burgundy or Oregon Pinot Noir or Beaujolais. The ever so slightly effervescent Lambrusco has been making a comeback in recent years and I would happy sip on a glass of chilled Lambrusco with this meal. It also reminds me of my childhood.

The dessert may allow you to be slightly more daring with your choice of wine. I think a demi-sec rose champagne would work wonders, especially if you didn’t opt for the sparkling wine at the beginning of the meal. Otherwise, I’d choose a late harvest Riesling or possibly a Moscato D’Asti to end the meal with a sweet, easy drinking and relatively low-alcohol wine.

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LEMONS

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Sprinkle some sunshine into mealtimes with Claire Borg’s luscious desserts and savoury dishes which she prepared and photographed for Taste&Flair.

LOVE OF

FOR LEMONS

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LEMON CURD

Lemon curd’s tart-but-sweet taste adds a delicious note to cakes, tarts, and other sweets. It’s also lovely as a topping for pancakes or ice cream, and a tangy accompaniment to cheese. Freshmade lemon curd will last 7-10 days, if stored in the fridge.

Makes 2 jars

YOU WILL NEED:

3 lemons

360g sugar

5 eggs

250g salted butter

1. Juice the lemons. Put the squeezed juice in a pan together with the buter and bring it to a boil.

2. Meanwhile beat the eggs and sugar together until evenly combined. Take the buter mixture off the heat and, while mixing constantly, pour it slowly into the egg mixture.

3. Transfer the combined mixture back to the cooking pot and bring it to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Make sure you are constantly whisking during the whole process.

4. Run the mixture through a fine metal sieve immediately afer taking it off the heat. Place it in a large bowl or container and cover it with cling film that just touches the surface. This will prevent a crust forming. Set the bowl aside to cool.

5. Once the mixture cools down, put it into sterile glass jars and store them in the fridge.

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BISCUIT TORTONI

This easy, no-cooking recipe is a taste of childhood in every mouthful. Maybe it’s the combination of ingredients and the memories of hot summer afernoons spent whipping up a dessert that then disappears in minutes. If there’s any lef over, it will last up to 7 days if stored in an airtight container.

Serves 6-8

YOU WILL NEED:

½ a packet of morning coffee biscuits, crushed

1 packet of lemon jelly

1 large tin of evaporated milk

5 tablespoons of icing sugar juice and zest of 1 and a half lemons 150 ml double cream

1. Before you start, place the tin of milk in the freezer for 30-40 minutes, so it becomes really cold.

2. Dissolve the jelly in 8 tablespoons of boiling water and set it aside to cool down completely.

3. Place the sifed icing sugar, lemon juice and zest, double cream and cold milk into a bowl. Use a beater to whip the mixture together until very well aerated. You’ll know it’s done when the mixture increases in volume and the beating starts to sound hollow.

4. Once ready, continue beating the mixture while pouring in the jelly. Incorporate it well then fold in the biscuits.

5. Pour the mixture into a bowl and leave it in the fridge for at least two hours. Before serving, sprinkle the top with some more crushed biscuits and some lemon zest.

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Lemon and Coconut Loaf

Makes 2 loaves

YOU WILL NEED:

300g plain yoghurt

4 eggs

400g sugar

zest of 2 lemons

juice of 1 lemon

pinch of nutmeg

400g flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

100g shaved coconut

150ml vegetable oil

FOR THE GLAZE

100g sifted icing sugar

Juice of ½ a lemon

1. Zest the lemons and mix the zest with the sugar. Leave it to infuse for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

2. Mix the yoghurt, eggs, lemon juice, and oil in a bowl and set it aside. Preheat the oven to 170°C.

3. Into another bowl, sif the flour and baking powder, and add the coconut, nutmeg, and lemon sugar. Mix well, then fold in the egg mixture until you have an even bater. Pour this into two lined loaf tins and bake the loaves at 170°C for 35 to 40 minutes.

4. To make the glaze, mix the lemon juice and sugar until it’s of a runny consistency. If the lemons are a bit dry add the juice of another quarter or half a lemon.

5. When the cakes are just out of the oven, drizzle them with the glaze, leting it run down the sides and let them cool. Decorate the top with toasted shaved coconut.

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The tang of lemon and scrumptious taste of toasted coconut is a perfect flavour combination for the sultry weather as late summer gives way to early autumn.
Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt www.oxfordhouse.com.mt Where every dish conducts a symphony of flavour. DISCOVER THE ORCHESTRA COLLECTION

Sicilian Lemon & Almond Biscuits

These delicious bites will last up to a week if stored properly, but they’re more likely to disappear as soon as they’re done.

Makes approximately 15 biscuits.

YOU WILL NEED:

250g pure ground almonds

200g castor sugar

¼ teaspoon fine salt

60g egg whites (from 2 eggs) juice of ½ a lemon zest of ½ a lemon icing sugar for coating

1. Beat the egg whites, salt, and lemon juice until they hold sof peaks, then slowly add the sugar and beat the mixture for a minute.

2. Mix the zest and the ground almonds in a bowl, then fold them into the egg white mix, and then mix them together until you have a sticky dough.

3. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Lightly wet your hands and roll the mixture into small balls, rolling each one in icing sugar before placing it on the baking tray.

4. Bake the biscuits in a hot oven set to 150°C for 20-25 minutes, then remove them from the oven and let them cool on a wire rack. Store them in an airtight container. They will last for about 5 -7 days.

36 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 & HARVEST
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Tabouleh

A staple of the dining table across the Middle East, tabbouleh epitomises Mediterranean cuisine with its mix of fresh and seasonal ingredients. It’s best if made a few hours ahead or even the day before serving.

Makes enough for 10 as a side dish

YOU WILL NEED:

500g couscous

300ml lemon Juice

100ml olive oil

2 cups very finely chopped parsley

1 cup very finely chopped mint

1 very finely diced onion

1 large peeled and finely diced cucumber salt and pepper to taste cherry tomatoes (optional)

1. Add the oil, salt and pepper to the dry couscous and mix it well. Next, add the lemon juice, stir the mixture well and let it stand for 15 minutes.

2. Now, add the finely chopped herbs, onion and cucumber and stir again. Chill in the fridge for a few hours or overnight until serving time.

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Meatballs wrapped in Lemon Leaves

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These lemon scented meatballs are an ideal makeahead dish as they may be served warm or cold.

YOU WILL NEED: untreated lemon leaves, i.e. no pesticides

toothpicks

200g minced beef

300g minced pork

100g cream cheese

zest of 1 lemon juice of 1 lemon

1 onion • 1 egg butter for onion and for baking

½ teaspoon dried sage

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons bread crumbs some fresh parsley, very finely chopped salt and pepper

1. Dice the onion very finely and cook it gently in buter until it is sof and translucent. Set it aside to cool.

2. Put all the other ingredients into a bowl, then add the cooked onion. Stir the mixture well. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Scoop up a spoonful of the mixture and use your hands to shape it into a ball. Wrap it in a lemon leaf and secure it with a toothpick. Repeat with the rest of the mixture.

3. Place the prepared meatballs in a baking dish, dot with buter, then add some white wine and season with salt and pepper.

4. Cover the dish with baking paper and foil and bake it at 160°C for an hour. Serve warm or cold.

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Lemon cheesecake

A classic dessert, finished off with home-made lemon curd.

Serves 8 people

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FOR THE BISCUIT BASE:

300g crushed digestive biscuits

100g melted butter

FOR THE TOPPING:

200g lemon curd

1 gelatine leaf

FOR THE FILLING:

1 block lemon jelly

200ml hot water, off the boil

350 ml double cream

300g cream cheese

3 tablespoon icing sugar juice and zest of one lemon

1. Line a springform cake tin with non-stick baking paper.

2. Dice the jelly and add it to the very hot, freshly boiled water. Let it dissolve then set the mixture aside to cool down.

3. Melt the buter and stir it into the crushed biscuits. Scoop the mixture into the lined cake tin and pat it down into an even layer on the base and up the sides too, to form the crust. Put the tin in the freezer to chill while you finish the rest of the recipe.

4. Mix the cream cheese, sifed icing sugar, lemon juice and zest together until smooth. Check the temperature and consistency of the lemon jelly (it should be cool and runny). Stir the jelly into the cheese mixture.

5. Whip the double cream in a separate bowl, then fold both mixtures together until smooth. Remove the chilled cake tin from the freezer and pour the mixture over the biscuit base. Put the cheesecake back in the fridge to set overnight.

6. To prepare the topping, sofen the gelatin leaf in cold water. Bring the lemon curd to a boil then remove it from the heat, then add the sofened gelatin leaf and stir till it dissolves. Set the mixture aside to cool.

7. Once the topping mixture has cooled down completely, pour it over the already set cheesecake. Chill it until set (at least an hour).

8. Serve with some whipped cream or simply decorated with fresh lemon wedges.

43 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 HARVEST &

WHAT’S FOR LUNCH?

Indulge in simple, satisfying, and scrumptious meals to feed your midday cravings with recipes by James Beard Award–winning author and photographer Meike Peters

Photography: Meike Peters

With a few tricks and clever flavour combinations to keep your mind, body, and soul happy, NOON makes it easy to treat yourself throughout the day. NOON: SIMPLE RECIPES FOR SCRUMPTIOUS MIDDAY MEALS & MORE is published by Chronicle Books (in English) and Prestel Verlag (in German) and launches on 5th September. You can order it at any bookstore or online all over the world.

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Photo by Anne Deppe

PARSNIP AND PEAR TART WITH GORGONZOLA AND THYME

Parsnip, pear, and blue cheese are a perfect autumn trio, especially when they meet in a butery tart. You could use Roquefort or Stilton, but I prefer the sweetness of Gorgonzola. It melts so smoothly into the parsnip and pear. To save time, you can opt for a store-bought crust, or prepare it in advance and keep it in the fridge or freezer. A slice of cold lefover tart with a green salad at noon makes the most satisfying and nourishing lunch. And when you pull the tart out of the oven the night before, still fragrant and warm, it’s the coziest dinner I can think of.

Serves 3 to 4

FOR THE PASTRY:

260g all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

130 g unsalted butter, cold

1 large egg

FOR THE TOPPING:

225g trimmed parsnips, rinsed and cut into thin wedges

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

fine sea salt

1 large, firm pear, cored and cut into wedges

110g Gorgonzola, cut into cubes

15 fresh small thyme sprigs

coarsely ground pepper

1. For the pastry, combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer

fited with the paddle atachment. Add the buter and use a knife to cut it into the flour until there are just small pieces lef. Quickly rub the buter into the flour with your

fingers until combined. Add the egg and mix on low just until the dough comes together. Form the dough into a thick disc, wrap it in plastic wrap, and freeze for 10 minutes.

2. For the topping, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the parsnip wedges for 4 to 5 minutes or until al dente. Drain gently, minding that the wedges stay in one piece, then briefly rinse with cold water and let them dry for a few minutes.

3. In a medium pot, whisk together the olive oil and honey over medium heat, then add the parsnips and gently toss until evenly coated. Season with a litle salt and remove from the heat.

4. Preheat the oven to 200°C.

5. On a work surface, place the dough between 2 sheets of plastic wrap

and use a rolling pin to roll out into a disc, large enough to line the botom and sides of a 30 cm quiche dish. Fit the dough into the quiche dish, pushing it into the dish, especially along the edges. Let the dough hang over the rim or trim with a knife. Use a fork to prick the dough all over. Bake for about 15 minutes or until golden. If the dough bubbles up, push it down with a fork.

6. Take the quiche dish out of the oven. Arrange the parsnip and pear wedges, alternating and like rays, in a circle on top of the prebaked pastry and drizzle with any of the honey-olive oil mixture that’s lef in the pot. Sprinkle with the Gorgonzola and thyme sprigs and bake for 19 to 22 minutes or until the pastry is golden and crispy and the cheese has melted. Let the tart cool for 10 minutes, then sprinkle with some pepper and enjoy warm or cold.

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ROASTED SQUASH, PARSNIP, AND GRAPE SALAD WITH BLUE CHEESE

In this salad, autumn is at last as bright and vibrant as the previous season. Parsnip, squash, and grapes, all roasted on one baking sheet, are layered with fresh green letuce and radicchio leaves. A quick vinaigrete and a handful of blue cheese crumbled on top—just for fun—round it out. This is the perfect salad for a day when you don’t mind turning on your oven and can let the veggies roast for thirty minutes while you do a bit more work at your desk or just relax. You can roast everything in advance and double the recipe to use lefovers for other salads, sandwiches, or soups.

Serves 2

FOR THE SALAD:

340g seeded squash, preferably peeled butternut or Hokkaido with skin, cut into 2.5cm wedges

170g seedless red grapes, on the vine

85 g peeled parsnip, cut into wedges

60ml olive oil

flaky sea salt

6 large radicchio leaves, torn into large pieces

8 small romaine lettuce leaves

40g Roquefort or Stilton, crumbled (optional)

FOR THE DRESSING:

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar

fine sea salt

finely ground pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C.

2. For the salad, spread the squash, grapes, and parsnip on a large baking sheet, but keep them separate. Drizzle with the olive oil and gently toss to coat, again keeping the squash, grapes, and parsnip separate. Season with a litle flaky sea salt and roast for 15 minutes, then gently flip the squash and parsnip over and continue roasting for 10 to 15 minutes or until the squash and parsnip are tender and the grapes start to sofen. Remove from the oven and let everything cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes.

3. For the dressing, whisk together the olive oil and vinegar in a small bowl and season to taste with fine sea salt and pepper.

4. Divide the radicchio and letuce leaves between two large plates and layer the squash, parsnip, and grapes (on the vine or snipped) on top. Sprinkle with the Roquefort, drizzle with the dressing, and serve immediately.

5. To prepare the salad for transportation, let the squash, parsnip, and grapes (off the vine) cool completely, then pack in a container and spread the radicchio, letuce leaves, and Roquefort on top. Keep the dressing separate in a jar and assemble just before lunch.

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FOR THE SOUP:

680g baby beets with their greens (or regular beets plus

2 large chard leaves)

fine sea salt

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

200ml water

310g peeled kirby or Persian cucumbers, coarsely grated

500ml buttermilk, cold

400ml kefir, cold

300ml full-fat plain yogurt, cold

10 medium radishes, trimmed and coarsely grated

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste

1 medium bunch fresh chives, chopped

1 small bunch fresh dill, chopped, reserving a few fronds for the topping

finely ground pepper

FOR THE TOPPING:

3 to 6 large eggs

18 thin cucumber slices

6 radishes, thinly sliced freshly grated lemon zest (optional)

1. For the soup, peel the beets and cut into small cubes, then finely chop the beet stems and slice the leaves. Transfer the beets, stems, and leaves to a medium pot and stir in 1 teaspoon of salt, the sugar, and the water. Cover the pot and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer

ADA’S COLD BEET SOUP WITH CUCUMBER, RADISHES, AND EGG

for 4 to 5 minutes or until al dente. Transfer the beets and cooking liquid to a medium bowl, let cool at room temperature for 10 minutes, and then chill in the fridge until cold.

2. In a medium bowl, mix the cucumbers with a generous amount of salt and let sit for 15 minutes, then drain and squeeze the cucumber.

3. For the topping, place the eggs in a pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Once the water is boiling, cook for 4 minutes for sof-boiled eggs. Drain the eggs and rinse with cold water. Peel the eggs, set aside, and cut in half lengthwise just before serving. In a large bowl, whisk together the butermilk, kefir, and yogurt, then stir in the beets and their cooking liquid, the drained cucumbers, grated radishes, lemon juice, chives, and dill. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and additional lemon juice.

4. Divide the cold soup among bowls, arrange a few cucumber and radish slices on top, and place a half or a whole egg in the middle. Sprinkle with a litle lemon zest and dill and serve immediately. You can keep the soup in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Adrianna Jackowska has the talent to make me smile even on my grumpiest days—and so does her Polish cold beet soup. She is the first person who convinced me that cold soup can be great. The soup she grew up with is called chłodnik. It’s vibrantly pink, and so crisp, it tastes like biting into a vegetable garden—I find it more refreshing than a salad. Traditionally made in spring or early summer, using baby beets and their tender greens, it’s thickened with grated raw cucumber and radishes and topped with fresh dill and chives. The vegetables are stirred into a chilled kefirbutermilk-yogurt mixture and crowned by a sof-boiled egg. Perfect frugal simplicity. Some add crayfish, which I don’t think it needs. Sticking to vegetables and making them shine without distraction is the pure beauty of this soup. And it’s quick to prepare: You cook the beets for five minutes and then mix it all together. Ada makes enough for six servings, as it stays fresh in the fridge for a few days, developing just the right depth and flavour on the third day, and is also perfect for inviting friends over.

Taste&Flair note: Milk kefir is a fermented dairy product similar in many ways to yogurt and buttermilk. It is cultured from kefir grains.

Serves 6

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ROASTED EGGPLANT AND BACON SANDWICH WITH BUTTER BEAN–BASIL PESTO

You could call this thick buter bean–basil pesto “puréed beans,” but that wouldn’t sound as tempting. This unusual pesto is similar to hummus yet lighter and fresher. It doesn’t need much olive oil but requires a full handful of fragrant basil leaves. It’s another one of these startling pantry wonders—we have all the ingredients lying around most of the time but don’t know what to do with them. You can keep the pesto in the fridge for days and use it as a spread on toasted bread or stir it into warm pasta. Layering it with roasted eggplant slices leads to a luscious sandwich.

Crispy bacon adds salty crunch and increases the fun, but it’s just as good when you keep it meat-free. If you’re looking for other combinations, try pairing the eggplant with hummus.

Makes 2-3 sandwiches

FOR THE SANDWICHES:

1 medium eggplant (about 250 g), cut into 1.25 cm circles

60 ml olive oil, plus more for cooking

flaky sea salt

coarsely ground pepper

2 to 3 slices bacon

2 to 3 spelt or rye buns, cut in half

FOR THE PESTO:

250g drained and rinsed canned butter beans (lima beans; or cannellini beans)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 handful fresh basil leaves, plus a few small leaves for serving fine sea salt

coarsely ground pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 220°C.

2. For the sandwiches, toss the eggplant and the 60 ml of olive oil in a medium baking dish. Arrange the eggplant slices side by side and

season with flaky sea salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes, then flip the eggplant slices and continue roasting for 10 minutes or until golden brown and sof; mind that they don’t burn.

3. Meanwhile, for the pesto, purée the buter beans, olive oil, and basil in a food processor or blender until smooth. Season to taste with fine sea salt and pepper.

4. In a medium, heavy pan, heat a small splash of olive oil over mediumhigh heat and cook the bacon, turning occasionally, for a few minutes or until golden brown and crispy.

5. Layer the warm or cold roasted eggplant slices and the buter beanbasil pesto on the botom halves of the buns. Place the bacon on top and sprinkle with basil leaves and pepper, then place a top on each bun and enjoy.

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ROASTED CHICKEN BREAST WITH PEACHCILANTROGINGER SALSA

The true star in this recipe is the peach salsa—no offense to the chicken. Briefly seared and finished off in the oven, the meat is perfectly tender, but the salsa has the kind of easy playfulness that creates pure joy in a dish. The result is layers of bold flavour, without drifing into anything complicated. You can substitute the peaches with dark plums—use three plums in place of the two types of peaches— which are easier to find throughout the year and create a more tart salsa than the sweeter peaches. Ginger and fresh cilantro, used generously, give the chicken vibrant pungency.

Serves 1

FOR THE SALSA*:

1 large yellow peach

1 large white doughnut peach

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro, plus a few chopped leaves for serving

½ to 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon olive oil

1⁄8 teaspoon fine sea salt

FOR THE CHICKEN: olive oil, for searing

1 medium boneless, skinless chicken breast

flaky sea salt

coarsely ground pepper

* This is enough salsa for 2 servings. You can either cook 2 chicken breasts or use any remaining salsa for sandwiches or as a condiment with any kind of mature cheese.

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C.

2. For the salsa, bring a small pot of water to a boil and blanch both peaches at the same time for 4 to 7 minutes or until you can easily peel off their skin; the cooking time depends on their ripeness. Drain the peaches and, using a knife or your fingers, peel off their skin under running cold water. Transfer the peaches to a cuting board, then cut in half and remove the pits. Chop the peaches

roughly and transfer to a medium bowl. Add the cilantro, ½ teaspoon of ginger, lemon juice, olive oil, and fine sea salt and mix gently. Season to taste with additional ginger and set aside.

3. For the chicken, heat a splash of olive oil in a small, heavy ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken breast and sear for 1 minute per side. Season with flaky sea salt and pepper, then roast in the oven for about 8 minutes or until the juices run clear when you prick the thickest part of the chicken with a skewer. Transfer the chicken to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes, then drizzle generously with the salsa, sprinkle with the cilantro, and enjoy.

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WHEN THE NOSE KNOWS

Andrew Azzopardi on what you need to know about a wine’s aromas and flavours.

Our sense of smell is one of the most powerful and influential. It can tri g ger memories, emotions and preferences. Smells can remind you of particular instances, evoke childhood memories or even affect your mood both positively or negatively. This is why food and wine can play around so much with our emotions. Whether it’s the chocolate aromas that put a smile on my wife’s face, or the smell of freshly baked bread that takes me back to my childhood days of self-control when dad used to buy a loaf of freshly baked bread from the baker afer mass every Sunday. (In hindsight, I can see that my self-control was rather poor –I’m quite sure I usually handed the loaf of bread to my mum with a large gaping hole at the edge.)

From a quite a young age I realised that my sense of smell was beter than that of the rest of my family. If anyone was unsure if the milk was still good, I was asked to decide on their behalf. I don’t mean to brag, but I was correct 100% of the time. I won’t go as far as calling myself a “super-smeller” but there were times that my heightened sense of smell would allow me to tell when foodstuffs are about to expire even 1 or 2 days before they are officially expired according to the label. A heightened sense of smell wasn’t always an advantage, especially in confined places such as the gym, airplanes, or that particular time during my student years when I shared a sleeping cabin with a stranger on the train. But litle did I know that it would one day give me extra confidence in pursuing my love for wine.

Smell is also an integral part of actually tasting flavours, which is why we can’t seem to taste anything whenever we

catch a cold. If you close your nose with a peg and taste a strawberry, you might taste some sweetness and sourness, but probably not the strawberry flavour. The sensation of flavour is actually a combination of taste and smell. This happens because, as you chew, you force air through your nasal passage. These food odours or odorants are detected by receptor proteins on hair-like cilia at the tips of the sensory cells in your nose, which in turn send neural messages to the brain. These two messages are what we perceive as a flavour or taste.

In 2006, Hervé This published the revolutionary book “Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor” where he discusses the physiology of flavour and explores how the brain perceives tastes, how chewing affects food, and how the tongue reacts to various stimuli. Examining the molecular properties of bread, ham, foie gras, and champagne, the book analyses what happens as they are baked, cured, cooked, and chilled. Hervé This also discusses how the shape of a wine glass affects the taste of wine which we can easily test. Pour some wine into a tumbler and the same wine into a proper wine glass and see how different the wine tastes from one glass to the other.

You might be wondering if it’s all down to the strawberries or lemons that may have been previously planted in the vineyards, when in fact the aromas that we smell in wine are mainly produced by chemical compounds formed during the winemaking process, such as fermentation, ageing, and maturation. Some of the most common compounds are esters, aldehydes, ketones, pyrazines, and phenols. These compounds can create a variety of aromas, such as fruity,

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Our sense of smell is one of the most powerful and influential. It can trigger memories, emotions and preferences.

floral, spicy, herbal, vegetal, nuty, toasty, smoky, and earthy.

Grapes themselves have flavours that may remind you of other fruits, but it is the fermentation that unlocks most of the chemicals and compounds that are shared with other fruits and foods. The wine may contain hundreds of different esters, ketones, pyrazines, lactones, thiols, phenols and other organic compounds that are mixed and matched in so many ways to reveal an array of different flavours and aromas.

It is ofen discussed whether the soil itself lends any particular flavours to the wines, and though there may be some evidence of this, it is more ofen than not the geological variations that affect the radiation and temperature of that particular area which unlocks different flavours in the grape as opposed to the actual soil. We ofen hear that slate soils or flint in the soil works its way into the vine revealing certain flavours. The romantic in me wants to believe this, but science has not pinpointed how. I still believe I can taste a certain salinity in Chablis and a flint smell or mineral character in Pouilly Fumé, however science still hasn’t supported the reason why and it’s certainly possible that we will discover more in the future.

Techniques during the winemaking process, such as fermenting in oak barrels or steel tanks will have a direct effect on flavours. Wine fermented in steel tanks will not interfere with the fruit compounds from the grape, while oak will add texture and flavours such as vanilla, caramel, coconut, toast, or cedar (some are lactones and thiols). The type of oak used, the size of the oak barrel, and whether the oak was toasted or not will also lend different flavours, as

would the age of the oak barrel and whether it was new or used before.

Once fermentation ends, the wine may be aged in a variety of vessels that will each impact the wine’s flavours. The winemaker may choose new or second-hand oak barrels or even egg-shaped concrete vessels or terracotta pots where the oxygen transfer rate (the rate at which oxygen is transferred into the ageing vessel) would have an impact on the resulting wine.

There are plenty of other different techniques to add flavour to the wine from when the grapes are picked, such as the strand of yeast used to ferment the wine. Some winemakers use indigenous yeasts from the vineyard, whereas other winemakers may choose to buy in yeasts that add or alter flavours and aromas. Fermentation techniques and blending may also add different flavours to the mix as does the vintage condition, such that warmer years may increase the possibility of riper fruit flavours or even dried or stewed fruits flavours.

While the apple trees that grew in the orchard before it was converted to a vineyard don’t lend flavour to the wines, other events such as forest fires can hugely impact the flavour of wine due to the volatile phenols in smoke permeating the grape skins. Commonly known as smoke taint, it's definitely a flaw that wine producers try to avoid at all costs. Given the shifing weather paterns and frequency of forest fires, that’s not something to be sniffed at.

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Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wines and Spirit Education Trust.
The sensation of flavour is actually a combination of taste and smell.
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This Mediterranean-style villa built for a young family was designed to frame the views.

Architectural, structural, and interior design and project management: CVC architecture studio

Design team: Ian Critien, Andrea Vassallo Cesareo, Bianca Darmanin, Samuel Cremona, Gabriel Micallef, Chiara Darmanin

Photography: Daryl Cauchi

M&E Engineering: Ing. Pierre Cassar

Main Contractor: Schranz Ltd.

The house, newly built in a villa area, is secluded behind vernacular boundary walls. The construction of the discreet design was entrusted to Schranz Ltd who also managed the finishing works including the mechanical and electrical installations, tile laying, plastering and painting, exterior flooring and landscaping.

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It’s a newly built house in a villa area, which involved excavation, construction, and finishing, but you wouldn’t notice it right away. A particular feature of this house is that it is set back from the surrounding streets, screened by abundant vegetation and surrounded by vernacular boundary walls. The contemporary building gradually comes into view as one approaches it along the private driveway.

The architects’ brief was to exploit the site’s location to maximise the views while maintaining privacy and seclusion, and to build in functional and entertainment areas to accommodate a young family. The project was not without challenges and design constraints. “The quality of the rock in the area was generally weak, so we designed a large raft foundation for the house,” says CVC Architecture Studio partner, Andrea Vassallo Cesareo.

The house, built on a slope on high ground, is spread over three levels connected with a Schindler lift supplied by Panta. Architectural and concealed lighting from Glow Projects was incorporated throughout the villa - both indoors and outdoors - as part of the lighting design. Here track lighting positioned along the split ceiling creates a warm and inviting overall illumination. Timber screen walls with inset doors set off the garage area from the main house at basement level and afford privacy to the bedroom area on the main entrance level. A steel-framed staircase links the basement to the middle level. Vassallo Joiners supplied the timber clad walls and solid oak stair treads.

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“There were structural challenges too because of the large floor spans and cantilevers. At the topmost level, the outdoor pool sits on 6m high columns for support, and the large outdoor areas have raised waterproofed flooring which overlies rainfall drains to protect the bedrooms below. The large, glazed apertures needed careful design and detailing, so we worked with a professional supplier. We had to keep the roofop clear to avoid disrupting the views from properties higher up the hillside, so all the services are hidden from sight in dedicated plant rooms in the basement.”

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PASSION FOR EXCEPTIONAL PROJECTS www.SCHRANZLTD.com Tel: +356 21418760
Photo Daryl Cauchi

Natural materials - honed carrara marble flooring, timber screen walls and solid oak stair treads - bring warmth to the interior.

At the front of the house, the large glazed windows lighten the building mass and frame the sweeping views all the way down to the sea from as many parts of the house as possible. At the rear, where the views are less prominent, the architecture language is grounded in the landscape, where a large travertine monolith conceals the garage door and other service areas, guiding you to the rear garden.

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The traditional layout is inverted, the bedroom zone is layered between the living spaces and outdoor pool installed on the upper level, and the indoor pool, gym, cinema, bar area, and home office in the basement. The interior design is ultimately a reflection of the home owners’ lifestyle, providing dedicated spaces in various areas of the house facilitating individual users’ enjoyment of those spaces.

The house is spread over three levels connected with a Schindler Lif supplied by Panta, which was designed to seamlessly blend into the home's interior, adding an architectural element that complements the design and aesthetics of the house. The lif enhances accessibility - providing convenience and comfort. Carrying heavy day-to-day items, such as groceries, or laundry, becomes much simpler. Installation of a lif also helps "future-proof" the home, as residents age or mobility needs change.

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CONTEMPORARY

On the open terraces on the upper level, raised flooring supplied by Satariano masks the drainage system that whisks away rainfall in wet weather, protecting the bedrooms on the floor below. Timber decking supplied by Brands International provides a nautical touch.

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&
CONTEMPORARY

Generally, it’s good design sense to seclude the bedrooms from the living spaces. The four bedrooms are positioned on the entrance level of the house, shielded by a timber screen wall for privacy Each of the bedrooms, with its own ensuite bathroom, is accessed through a central corridor. Two of the bedrooms overlook the sea views and the lower garden while the other two look out onto and have direct access to the quiet and shady internal garden. On the upper floor, the split-level living and entertainment space hosts a large kitchen with two freestanding islands and an open plan dining and living area that overlook the 14-metre long infinity pool and the views beyond.

A glass fronted fireplace by Prestige Fires, set into the partition in the living area, provides a warm focal point in the colder months, complementing the underfloor heating supplied by Klimaflo. The glass 3-sided gasburning fireplace with real flame burner technology is fully remotely controlled, including many functions like room temperature control, timer schedule, low and high flame, and more. The contemporary furniture from Satariano enhances the uncluttered look of the free-flowing internal space.

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“The main concept was to create a minimalist dwelling both in terms of architectural as well as interior design,” says Andrea. “However, this was not at the expense of creating a comfortable, warm and welcoming home. It was a priority to not create a cold and stark interior, so we sought to use natural materials within the interior colour palette. Internally, honed Carrara marble flooring was selected for the main entrance and living spaces.”

The downstairs kitchen (centre and bottom images), by Poliform from Onepercent, complements the space. The dark cabinetry provides a strong contrast against the light coming from the large windows, creating depth and visual interest. This contrast helps to define the cabinetry as a focal point within the space.

The glass-fronted top cabinets introduce a visual contrast, and serve as a platform to showcase design elements, introducing textural variety to the kitchen design. For the top floor, the different space incorporates a kitchen, also by Poliform from Onepercent, with a completely different feel and flow.

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SHAPE KITCHEN, DESIGN POLIFORM 235x325 S shape 08 23.indd 1 29/08/23 16:27

“This gives the place a certain richness which complements the custom-designed carpentry finished in natural oak. Real oak flooring was also used inside the bedrooms to create a warmer, more comfortable space. Externally, apart from the large glazing which brings the surrounding foliage within constant view, we used plain white plaster in conjunction with light-toned travertine cladding and composite timber shading slats. For areas with vehicular access, we used exposed aggregate concrete flooring which created a very natural feel.”

The main living and entertainment hub on the topmost level of the house enjoys unobstructed seaviews. The kitchen islands are positioned to enable visual communication and social interaction between the indoor and outdoor areas. The clean and modern appearance of suspended LED profile task lights from Glow Projects enhances the overall design of the upstairs kitchen. The contemporary look is enhanced by the sleek lines of the Poliform kitchen supplied by Onepercent. Light-coloured worktops reflect and amplify the natural and artificial light present in this bright kitchen, which contributes to an even brighter and more open-feeling space.

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The house is fully equipped with an intelligent automation system for all lighting and power throughout. A complete home automation solution was installed and commissioned by Astral Enterprises Ltd. A combination of leading brands and systems including a 7-zone multi room audio system from Denon HEOS, Bowers & Wilkins speakers, Denon AV Receiver, EPSON projector, along with the Philips Dynalite lighting control system, Doorbird intercom and Control 4 Luma Series CCTV system were all fully integrated by Astral with the Control 4 automation platform, which creates a truly sophisticated and integrated smart home environment.

Vertical slat screens supplied by Brands International, filter the sunlight creating an interesting shadow effect that shifts throughout the day. Indirect concealed lighting from Glow Projects adds a touch of elegance and sophistication above the indoor pool, creating a visually stunning effect that transforms

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the pool area.
Creating spaces worth living in. Triq Tal-Balal, San Gwann | 2095 9595 | info@brands.com.mt | www.brands.com.mt REFINED AESTHETICS, ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY, DURABILITY AND ENERGY EFFICIENCY. residential | commercial | indoor | outdoor Discover the full range of sunscreens, decking, profles and cladding modules for walls, ceilings and facades, designed to offer the look of natural wood, without requiring maintenance, thanks to a patented resin-shielded technology.

The inclusion of wall-mounted backlit keypads, touch screens, and mobile app control ensures convenient and seamless management of all aspects of the home, from entertainment to security, even remotely. Astral's emphasis on minimising wall cluter and the implementation of a robust WiFi network system further enhance the user experience, offering a high level of comfort, convenience, and security for the homeowners. Besides entertainment and security, the Control 4 automation platform also integrates day-to-day comforts, including under-floor heating, air conditioning, pumps, towel rails, electric windows, and electric blinds. State of the art underfloor heating by Klimaflo provides radiant heat, which rises evenly throughout the rooms, creating a comfortable and consistent temperature without the drafts and cold spots often

associated with traditional heating systems. Walking on a warm floor, especially during colder months, creates a luxurious feel that's highly appreciated in living spaces. Divided into zones, underfloor heating allows specific areas to be heated as needed.

Marble cladding and flooring in one of the ensuite bathrooms create an elegant and luxurious feel complemented by solid oak parquet supplied by Brands International in the bedroom.

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All successful projects are the result of the right chemistry between clients and architects. In this case, the homeowners who also had a design background, were crucial in the timely implementation of the project to a high standard.

“We were thrilled that the clients loved our vision for the finished property from the outset,” Andrea says. “The final was very similar to the proposed design, which was a long and exhaustive process in itself. In the end, constant collaboration with the client, quick decision-making and a creative flair were key factors for success.”

In the bedroom, soft tones and a neutral palette create an atmosphere of tranquility. Solid oak parquet supplied by Brands International enhances the look.

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Klimaflo, located in Swatar, is widely recognised for its exceptional professionalism in providing both heating and cooling solutions. Specialising in heating systems like central heating, underfloor heating, and sanitary hot water, as well as air conditioning systems for residential and commercial properties, Klimaflo has successfully managed some of the most prestigious projects in Malta.

Kindly contact us for your upcoming project.

2137 6968
@klimaflo 1, Tower Street, Swatar, B’Kara, BKR 4016
+356
| +356 9949 5000 projects@klimaflo.com

The juxtaposition of a modern suspended track light supplied by Spot On Supplies Ltd against the white-washed stone walls creates a compelling contrast. This balance between old and new adds visual interest, highlighting the uniqueness of the space.

LET THERE

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THERE BE LIGHT

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Architecture: Andrew Vinci, Robert Fenech, Vinci Architects Photography: Alex Attard

Finding a house that has seen beter times and refurbishing it to suit your needs gives new meaning to the dream of building a home. There’s an instant sense of belonging when one moves into a house with a history. All that’s lef to do is create the physical changes that make it more liveable and personal, though that is usually more easily said than done.

This house is tucked away in Naxxar's historic core and has no frontage of its own. It is accessed through a common alley that was roofed over by third parties, and which eventually opens up into a tiny private courtyard.

It had already been partially refurbished by its previous owners when the current home occupants moved in. They decided to spend a few months living there before making any changes of their own. The experience helped them identify their needs and preferences and how to make the house work for them, adding their own personal layer of history.

In its secluded seting, the house suffered from a lack of natural light, an element that is both precious and pivotal to this project. The main living spaces looked out onto the internal courtyard but thanks to the small windows and the internal dividing walls, they felt disconnected both from the external area and from each other.

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Whatever natural light made its way into the internal spaces was absorbed by the exposed stone surfaces, and diminished by an awkwardly positioned spiral stair case. The tightly wound dark iron structure that provided access to the bedrooms upstairs was placed in front of one of the small windows, further dulling the property’s interior.

The homeowners knew what they wanted. “Our clients are a dynamic couple with a love for hosting,” says Robert Fenech of Vinci Architects. “They wanted not just more natural light reaching indoors, but an improved flow throughout the property’s spaces. With those main

requirements in mind, we wanted to approach the project with as litle an intervention as possible, respecting the building's architectural heritage while reimagining the spaces to accommodate contemporary living.”

A wall partitioning the living areas was removed and replaced by a new arch that maintains the rhythm of the existing structure. This provided a more fluid space while remaining true to the building's identity. For access to the upper level, a new staircase in exposed concrete was built to replace the spiral staircase. It lines the far wall, acting as a backdrop and a centrepiece to the newly opened up space. The stairwell was modelled as a deep skylight

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traversing vertically and unobstructed to the roof level allowing natural light to flood the living areas, thanks to the staircase being detached from the backwall.

As a final architectural gesture, the openings from the living area onto the courtyard were remodelled as a trio of doorways positioned between the internal arches, allowing the indoor use to flow easily to the outdoors.

The materials, from the white walls to light travertine floors to the raw appeal of concrete, were carefully chosen to not only allow light to radiate to every corner but also provide a fiting backdrop to the home owners’ cherished mid-century furniture. Playing on the textures of the

new stairwell walls plastered plumb and painted and older ones below simply whitewashed allow the sunlight to cast intriguing paterns as it penetrates the interior.

Along the length of the living area, one wall is now boarded to a particular height, serving as a functional and ventilated barrier against dampness. It also serves to house a running mood light and as a backdrop to an exposed concrete bench modelled as an extension to the staircase. Additional artificial lighting is provided by a track light that is suspended linearly to the space and through its arches, visually linking the previously separate areas.

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Natural light now pours into the previously dark interior, making the living area more welcoming for the home owners and their guests. A suspended track light and inset lighting provided by Spot On Supplies Ltd visually link the once separate areas.

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80 ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2023 & TRENDS The next issue will be out in October 2023 with The Malta Independent on Sunday. For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 • sellul@independent.com.mt
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