2014 WINTER VOL. 03 | Special Theme | Beyond the Main Course: Korea’s Rice | Tasty Story | Ancestral Recipes Sajeung Family House K-FOOD ISSUE The First Hansik Week
CONTENTS 2014 WINTER VOL.03
Special Theme
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Dinner Is Served
View Beyond the Main Course: Korea’s Rice
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Column 1 Rice, the Heart of Korean Cuisine
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Column 2 The Mentality That Makes Bap Special
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Column 3 New Values in a Rice–based Food Culture
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Theme Info All about the Rice
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Tasty Story
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It Tastes Better When Shared
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Ancestral Recipes Sajeung Family House
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K-FOOD ISSUE The First Hansik Week
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Seasonal Recipe Winter Fusion Hansik Dishes
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International Korean Menu Guide How to Romanize Mandut Guk
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Publisher: Kang Min-su Date of publication: January, 8, 2015 Publishing organization: Korean Food Foundation (www.koreanfood.net, www.hansik.org) PR team: Won Ji-suk, Lee Se-mi, Kim Bi-ni Address: No. 1306, aT Center, 27 Gangnam-daero (Yangjae-dong), Seocho-gu, Seoul Phone: 82-2-6300-2054 Fax: 82-2-6300-2055 Online: www.koreanfood.net, www.hansik.org, twitter.com/hansikkorea, facebook.com/hansikkorea, weibo.com/thetasteofkorea Planning, reporting and design: EEPOP (www.eepop.co.kr), 82-2-514-7567 This <HANSIK> can also be found at the KFF’s official website (www.koreanfood.net, www.hansik.org).
You can also view the magazine(Korean version) on your smartphone in a digital format by downloading the Korean Food app from the Apple App Store or Android Play Store or by scanning the QR code on the left. Keywords are Korean food, Korean Food Foundation, Korean food globalization, the Korean food magazine.
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Beyond the Main Course:
Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rice A staple in the Korean diet for thousands of years, rice continues to humbly hold its ground as the center of Hansik, a cuisine whose philosophy incorporates all elements of the universe. The subtle flavors of rice allow the other facets of Hansik, such as guk, namul, jeok and other banchan, to shine all the more brightly. As such, it is the undeniable starting point when it comes to explaining Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining culture. Cooking and styling by Lee Yun-hye (Food Studio Saigan) Photographed by Choi Jae-in Location Geumseongdang Shrine, Important Folklore Material No. 258 (Eunpyeong-gu, Jingwan-dong in Seoul)
Rice is served daily on kitchen tables nationwide, occasionally offered during ancestral rites and crafted into rice cakes for special or celebratory occasionsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;its simple beauty is exuded everywhere. Rice cakes, or tteok, especially, represent moments of great significance. Koreans have harvested grains since prehistoric times. Yet grains are also an ingredient of great irony, for it was only during hard times when Koreans consumed grains such as millet, foxtail millet, sorghum and corn to supplement depleted rice suppliesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;grains that were otherwise thrown away when rice was available. Now, however, they are heralded as superfoods and have been reinstated as a staple of Hansik.
Rice adapts to the seasons, augmenting provisions harvested from the mountains, fields and seas, highlighting the value of each season’s various flavors. Rice can warm your soul on a cold winter day or soothe an early–morning stomach in the form of porridge. Bringing life to a table of side–dishes as a mother’s embrace enlivens her children, rice brings us a story of infinite nourishment.
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Rice, the Heart of Korean Cuisine
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Of the many unique features of Korean cuisine, one of its most distinctive characteristics is that each and every meal is built around rice. Korea’s culinary and dietary histories, as well as many of its social traditions, are deeply embedded in this simple staple. While Korean pop culture continues to be exported around the world, one must ask whether Korean food can really possess the same meaning outside of its native country’s society and philosophy. In light of this question, one must look deeper into the roots of Korean food culture: rice. Written by Kim Sang-bo (Professor of Department of Traditional Cookery, Daejeon Health Sciences College) Photographed by Choi Jae-in
A 4000–year history with rice The most important item on the Korean dining table is its most abundant crop, rice. The reason for this is that rice provides the greatest amount of yield from a plot of land out of all grains, and thus feeds the most people. Although rice has less protein content than wheat, its good protein and vitamin content suggests that it can still be a nutritious staple even in the absence of accompanying dishes. However, there was once a time when millet was the staple in the Korean diet. This was approximately 4000 years ago, when rice was considered a precious grain. About 3000 years ago, however, the duke of Zhou from China’s Zhou Dynasty wrote in the section “Rites for the duke feasting a lord (Gongshi dafu li or 公食大夫禮)” in his work Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial (Yili or 儀禮), that “when receiving a lord, a duke should prepare a formal meal as well as an extra course.” The formal meal, which used standard white rice, was a basic course required for all occasions, while the extra course, which used millet instead, was a supplemental gesture offered to special guests. During the period of the Three Kingdoms (57 B.C.～A.D. 668) after the Bronze Age, King Daru (r. 28～77) of Baekje enforced rice farming on a national level in the southern provinces and counties. Finally, the general populace could enjoy what was once reserved for deities and distinguished guests. The surge in rice farming was rooted not only in rice’s pleasant taste, but in the excellent advantages rice offered in terms of regular harvests, measurement, transportation, distribution and preservation apart from its fragrant taste. As rice began displacing other grains in the nation’s pantries, the king of Baekje used tax money to further finance rice cultivation, managing to normalize its consumption on a daily basis. Other than captivating the palates of the people, rice has also been used as the main feature in ceremonial food for ancestral rites or wedding ceremonies.
Rice and the evolution of traditional Korean food culture Rice farming is inextricably linked to the presence of a lake or river. Freshwater fisheries thrive in paddy fields as water is required to irrigate the rice paddy. In turn, these waters become home to freshwater fish like carp, mandarin fish and freshwater prawns. This ready source of freshwater fish made it easy for people to start incorporating these ingredients into their diets as well. Small fish were useful for making jeotgal (salted seafood), and larger ones could be fermented and stored. The latter was carried out by first cutting open the belly, discarding the innards and then, after salting the fish for a period of time, inserting salted rice into the fish belly before allowing it to ferment. As people become more innovative, this fermentation process was applied to a wide
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variety of other vegetables, and in place of salted rice, salted rice-powder porridge was used to fill the belly. The fermentation process that gives us the modern kimchi is derived from this creativity. Although rice paddies led to the popularity of jeotgal, fermented fish and kimchi, an exploration of the Korean diet is not complete without discussing guk (soup). Korean food uses a strain of Japonica rice that is known to be rather sticky, and to prevent choking, the rice has long been paired with guk in meals. Records suggest that in the year 227, during the reign of the King Dongcheon (r. 227～248) of Goguryeo, the queen ordered one of her close aides to spill guk on the king’s attire while serving food in order to test the king’s affections for her.
The journey to becoming the center of Hansik It was with the rise of Confucianism during the Joseon Dynasty (1392～1910) that the ritual of setting Korean dining tables with rice, guk, jeotgal, kimchi, chopsticks and spoons became the norm. But as trends have come and gone, what remains consistent is the tradition of imbuing each dish with deep meaning, selecting components and a presentation that convey some small part of the logic behind the universe. One food table that carefully sticks to this tradition is that used in jesa, or ancestral rites. Although today’s jesa table may seem like a fastidious combination of items, the original jesa table was designed to be a thoughtful arrangement of what past Koreans would have believed to be the ideal meal. As Korean food continues to enjoy its higher profile abroad, it is important to emphasize its qualities that extend beyond the cuisine’s healthy nature: the beginnings of rice in Korean society, how these roots guided the growth of the Korean diet, why hansik came to be known as healthy and the historical and cultural background of Korean food. Not only is this message important to the global audience, Koreans themselves must also become more aware that hansik is more than simply food. Instead, it is necessary to remember that for thousands of years, Koreans have developed, cultivated and protected their very own unique food culture and used it as a system for caring for the body.
The author Kim Sang–bo is professor with the Department of Traditional Cookery at Daejeon Health Sciences College, as well as being the influential author of many publications on Korean food, including Another Look at Joseon Dynasty Royal Court Cuisine, A Modern Take on Sumunsaseol and A Story of Our Food Culture.
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Korea is a grain–based culture centered around rice, with the crop remaining a staple of the Korean diet since rice farming on the peninsula first started around 2000 B.C. Bap has continued to hold onto its place as the center of Korean food culture since farming took off and the country officially became an agricultural society during the late Three Kingdoms Era. With a 5000–year–old agricultural history on the peninsula, bap is, without a doubt, embedded in Korea’s spiritual DNA.
The value of Bap Rice has always been extremely valuable to Koreans, with eating long believed to be the key to keeping a person fit and strong. As would seem fitting, they took great care when making steamed rice, pairing it with an assortment dishes at every meal of the day; few ingredients complement hot, bitter, salty, bland or aromatic flavors as well as bap does, or creates such harmony in dishes. Because of this, past Koreans were devoted to this simple grain, which is at the center of Korean food culture. This sentiment is also demonstrated through the ancestral rites table. Of all the dishes that are prepared and set on the table, bap is prepared last, set on the table when it is nice and hot. Rice is also excellent source of nutritional value in the Korean diet, used to prevent and treat various illnesses or ailments that arise from a poor diet or daily routine. When foods made of rice are eaten regularly, the butyric acid that is formed when it is broken down in the large intestine can help suppress
The Mentality That Makes Bap Special Can you imagine a Korean table without bap, or cooked rice? Koreans have a saying that goes, “Agriculture forms the basis of national existence” referring to how the country has always placed the utmost value on agriculture, as well as every grain of rice produced because of it. Rice is an indispensable ingredient–some will assure you that it passes through farmers’ hands 88 times before reaching consumers–but there are other special meanings behind bap when it comes to Koreans. Written by Yoon Sook-ja (Director of Institute of Traditional Korea Food) Photographed by Kim Na-eun
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colon cancer and lower cholesterol in the blood. In addition, the fiber found in rice can also work together with copper, zinc and iron to prevent harmful heavy metals from being absorbed in the body. It also retains moisture and, thus, prevents constipation, and because it doesn’t release a lot of insulin, it helps prevent obesity, high blood pressure, atherosclerosis or other diseases linked to poor health and bad habits. In an agricultural society, rice represents abundance or wealth and, subsequently, it is no exaggeration to say that the year’s harvest had a direct impact on the well–being of the people. Rice is produced in accordance with the seasons, and was a food that could be consumed at any point of the year: an everyday staple when steamed; a juk, or rice porridge, when one was sick; or tteok, or rice cakes, when there was cause for celebration. This wasn’t all. It could also be simmered down to make yeot, or taffy; fermented when making wine; and also used as an ingredient when making vinegar. Its uses were so varied and prevalent that, after the Goryeo Dynasty (918～1392), rice became the benchmark for food and commodity prices and was used as a form of payment, extending its influence beyond food culture and into the realms of economics and social life. Rice wasn’t a just a part of Koreans’ daily lives, it represented an entire way of living.
An embodiment of all things Traditionally, rice wasn’t just something that people ate; it was a main sacrificial offering for the gods used during rituals such as gut or gosa (shamanistic exorcism or rituals). The reason rice was offered during sacred rituals was because, unlike barley or beans, rice was considered sacred. In the Gyeongsang– do, rice is kept in jars for house gods, such the dragon god or the god of childbirth, and these jars were said to represent the bodies of these deities. In the same way, shamans used grains of rice when fortune telling or offering psychic readings because they believed that rice was able to best relay the thoughts of the gods. In fishing communities, people took rice on board with them, and whenever they were met with a ferocious storm or will–o’–the–wisps (unexplained lights in damp areas), they scattered rice on the boat to ward off the evil and restore peace. The hallowedness of rice can also be seen when it comes to rice straw, and straw rope, or geumjul, is a great example. Ordinary straw rope is made by twisting the straw to the right, but geumjul is twisted to the left. During the ritual where the village prays to the gods to protect their village, or when a new baby is born, these geumjul were hung up, and this is a prime example of taboo. The rope’s use of rice straw is closely related to the belief that rice was sacred and had the ability to ward off evil spirits, and the people wanting to rely on these supernatural powers. Rice was also used to make the offerings for the ancestral rites table, either as bap on its own or along with tteok (rice cakes) and traditional Korean sweets. Once the ritual was carried out, people partook in eumbok, which involves the sharing of the sacrificial food and drink, including bap. In addition to representing family unity, the ceremony also represents wishes for prosperity of the household’s descendants through eating the blessed food given to them by their ancestors. As demonstrated by its incorporation across a wide swatch of traditional Korean culture, rice and bap are not simply sources of sustenance; they hold special meaning and promote the transmission of Korean culture to future generations. Since rice farming was first introduced, rice and bap became the source of Koreans’ physical and mental well-being.
The author Yoon Sook-ja is the director of the Institute of Traditional Korean Food. She is also the director of the Tteok Museum, and is the senior researcher in translating and interpreting traditional Korean recipes for modern audiences, along with related research and development projects. She is leading the way in the popularization and globalization of Korean food so that it may become better known around the world. Yoon obtained her master’s degree in Food and Nutrition at Sookmyung Women’s University and earned her Ph.D at Dankook University. She is currently a professor in the Traditional Korean Food department at Baehwa Women’s University. She is also president of the National Culinary Professor Association. She has published many books including The Story of Beautiful Festive Food and Korean Soul Food.
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New Values in a Rice–based Food Culture It’s been a while since Korean cuisine has attracted the interest of the world as a healthy cuisine. Korean food is known for being highly effective against obesity, cancer and other diseases tied to modern lifestyles and habits. Central to Korea’s cuisine is rice which played an important role in establishing local food culture, and is now receiving its due credit in the world. Written By Chun Hye-Kyung (Director of the National Academy of Agricultural Science, Rural Development Administration) Photographed by Kim Na-eun
The Creation of Korea’s unique food culture, with rice as the staple food The food Koreans eat every day, going beyond simple sustenance, is also a cultural product imbued with their lifestyles and spirit. National food culture is the sum total of the country’s national wisdom, the result of its ancestors devising and developing meals that would best fit their geographical and historical environments. Ancestors developed Korean agriculture around rice farming, owing to Korea’s hot and humid summers, which in turn resulted in a food culture where rice became the staple grain. Of course, as eating habits evolve, Korea’s rice consumption is decreasing; nonetheless, it is still one of the mostconsumed food items, and the rice–based diet is at the root of maintaining the nation’s health. With rice serving as the centerpiece that arrives accompanied by a variety of side dishes, Korean cuisine comprises a healthy diet that has a preventive effect against many of the diseases tied to modern habits and lifestyles, and in many respects, such as the diet composition, ingredients, and cooking methods, it is rather unique. Rice is a high–quality source of carbohydrates, and unlike other carbohydrate sources such as wheat or cassava, is digested slowly and thus slow to be absorbed into the bodies. When consuming bap (cooked rice) and banchan (side dishes) together, eating first one and then the other, blood sugar levels are slow to rise, and the eater feels sated. Mixing beans and other grains such as millet into the rice can increase these effects. In a food culture that consists of rice and side dishes, a single meal can contain a variety of foods–grain, of course, but also vegetables, legumes, meats, and fish. There’s also the possibility of planning low–calorie diets that still incorporate balanced nutrients. The spices, condiments and legumes that frequently appear at Korean tables in particular are rich in plant-based antioxidants and phytochemicals, and foods such as kimchi and namul (seasoned vegetables) contain a lot of dietary fibers and are reported to be effective at preventing obesity, cancer and other modern habit–and lifestyle–based diseases. Besides the above, Korean food is also characterized by a clean cooking method and its usage of a lot of fermented food products. Clean and light cooking methods include baking, steaming, parboiling and seasoning–all methods that limit the amount of fat added during the cooking process. Moreover, the oils used are mostly plant-based, such as sesame oil and wild sesame oil, with less unsaturated fatty acid than
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animal fats. Types of kimchi, and jang (fermented condiments) and other fermented foods are also known to be beneficial for intestinal health, as well as for the prevention of chronic diseases. According to 2012 statistics compiled by the Ministry of Health and the Korea Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, out of the daily 1,435.5 grams of food that each person consumes daily, the ratio of plant-based to animal-based foods was 79.4 percent to 20.6 percent, and the ratio of carbohydrates (65.6 percent) to protein (14.7 percent) to fats (19.7 percent) was very close to the recommended ratio (60～65 percent, 15–20 percent and 20 percent, respectively). These statistics reflect the conspicuously low national obesity rate compared to that of the U.S. or other OECD nations, which can be credited to a rice-based diet. According to the research of American scientist Dr. Ancel Keys (1904～2004), which compared the bloodstreams of both U.S. and Korean troops in the Korean War, showed that U.S. troops were suffering from clogged blood vessels while the Korean troops’ blood vessels were clean. Other examples, such as the Kempner Rice Diet developed by Dr. Walter Kempner in 1939 or Japan’s popular Suzuki Rice Diet proposed by a Japanese dietician Sonoko Suzuki, both support a similar idea. For four years from 2009 to 2012, the Rural Development Administration conducted joint research with Johns Hopkins University that demonstrated that the consumption of Korean food also had beneficial effects on non–Asian Americans, palliating the threat of lifestyle diseases including diabetes and cardiovascular disease. The research also represented an opportunity to objectively establish the nutritious excellence of local cuisine.
A rice–based food culture needs to be recognized anew as a valuable cultural asset Koreans live in an age of advancements where, as of recent years, they have multiple types of rice available and can select rice based on individual preferences and health conditions. Along with Hiami rice, which, due to its good taste and the fact that it is rich in essential amino acids, is frequently used in school lunches. There are also high–quality rice strains such as Samgwang and Chilbo that are now widely available. In response to the increase in the demand for brown rice, there are a number of new options on the market: Bodeurami, a non–glutinous rice for meals; Goami No. 4, which is rich in minerals and calcium; Goami No. 2 for dieters; Nunkeunheukchal, effective in reducing the effects alcohol; Josaengheukchal, effective in suppressing bacteria behind stomach infections; and other customized rice strains with various functions, all offering a greater number of choices for consumers. Regretfully, however, the value of a rice– based food culture is being forgotten. Even the general awareness of the different rice varieties has begun to disappear. But when it comes to rice, Korea is second to none in the world due to world–class technology and research talent, as well as an advanced production infrastructure. No matter how much eating patterns change, a rice–based food culture will continue to be a beautiful cultural heritage that acts as a prop to keep Korea and its society healthy, as it has been in the past. The 21st century is an age when culture and industry continue to converge. As the importance of a rice– based food culture is recognized as a cultural asset once more, I anticipate that rice will become a key product in the nation’s cultural industry. If Koreans all enjoy rice–based cuisine and continue to develop it with affection and pride, then local food culture can grow into a cultural product that anyone in the world can access and enjoy. Now is the time for us to shine the light on Korea’s rice-based food culture, one of the nation’s most valuable cultural assets, and help it bloom into a creative cultural industry.
The author Chun Hye-Kyung graduated from the science education department of Ewha Womans University and received her master’s degree at the food and nutrition program of the same school. She received her doctorate at Sookmyung Womans University’s graduate school for food science. Prior to her current posting with the National Academy of Agricultural Science (NAAS) at the Rural Development Administration (RAD), Director Jeon has also led RAD’s Research and Development efforts, the NAAS’ teams for both Hansik globalization research and agricultural product development, and the National Institute of Crop Science. She is the co-author of Good Morning, It’s Hansik.
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Theme Info
All about the Rice Rice has been the indispensable staple in the Korean diet since the Neolithic period. Although rice consumption has been gradually declining since the start of the new millennium, Koreans still live according to the belief that rice gives them energy, a notion that has solidified the grain’s inclusion on the Korean dining table. Rice goes harmoniously with a variety of side dishes to form a nutritious balance. Here are some useful facts about rice. Reference: How to Eat Well, How to Live Well, issue 44: Rice (2004).
The origins and history of rice
Jeollanam-do: top producer in Korea
It is estimated that rice started to be consumed in the Korean
Jeollanam-do: 173,000 ha (20%)
peninsula about 3000 years ago during the Neolithic period, and that rice became the grain of choice during the Three Kingdoms
Chungcheongnam-do: 153,000 ha (18%)
era.
Jeollabuk-do: 130,000 ha (15%) Source: Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs
Polishing rice for the right flavor
The correct way of storing rice grains:
In the process of polishing rice, pounding is a technique used
1. Low temperature and airtight conditions.
to transform rice into a form suitable for consumption. This process can involve 1 to 13 separate rounds of milling; the larger
It is recommended that grains be stored in an airtight container or plastic bottle and placed in the fridge’s crisper compartment.
the milling degree, the more polished the rice is. • Brown rice
2. No refilling of your rice storage container.
(0 degrees) is from rice that is threshed; in other words, it is
Mixing fresh grains with leftover old rice bran will make the new
unpolished rice with only the husk removed. Brown rice is full of
rice grains spoil faster.
nutrients since the bran and germ remain intact. • At 5 degrees,
3. Drop 2-3 pieces of gochu with the stored grains.
you find the intermediate product in between brown and white
This will keep away rice weevils.
rice, which also provides a nutritional punch similar to brown rice due to the bran and germ content. • White rice (10-13 degrees) experiences the greatest nutrient loss as the germ and bran are removed, but is also the most easily digestible and has the most aromatic fragrance.
Changes in rice consumption per capita 1982
130 kg
1990
119.6 kg
2000
How to select the best rice:
2012
93.6 kg 69.8 kg
1. Grains should be glossy and translucent. 2. Grains should be uniformly shaped. 3. Grains should not be discolored. 4. No cracks!
How do the nutrients in a single bowl of rice stack up?
5. The gap between the production and polishing dates should
1 bowl of rice (150g, 252kcal) = ½ cup of milk, ⅓ stalk of celery,
be minimal.
3 potatoes, 2 cabbage leaves, 2 leaves of spinach, ½ a broccoli
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Tasty Story 16 20 24 26
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It Tastes Better When Shared
Ancestral Recipes Sajeung Family House K-FOOD ISSUE The First Hansik Week Seasonal Recipe Winter Fusion Hansik Dishes International Korean Menu Guide How to Romanize Mandut Guk
Tasty Story Ancestral Recipes
Bugakâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;The Dignified Snack Sajeung Family House Written and photographed by Gregory David Samborski Food and location provided by Oh Hee-suk (wife to 12th heir of Papyeong Yoon clan, Sajeung family)
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When Oh Hee-suk married the heir to the Papyeong Yoon clan, Sajeung family, she knew she would need to be taught the clan’s 300-year-old ancestral recipes by her mother-in-law one by one. Among the many dishes she was expected to learn to make, the one she truly put her heart into was bugak (vegetable and seaweed chips), a recipe involving a laborious process with complicated steps and preparation; she felt that her family’s treasured bugak would go extinct without her careful study. Today, we get to know the Sajeung family’s specific method for making bugak, a dish that has been recognized as one of Korea’s traditional foods and continues to be preserved by the likes of talented chefs such as Mrs. Oh.
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Tasty Story 종가의 맛
Bugak
Welcome to Yoon Gyeong Nam House
living quarters. The sitting area was like most I’ve seen–deep brown
Twenty–four stories above the golden valley floor, we
wooden plank floors, orangy–yellow clay walls, and
traversed from one mountain range to another. All
glassless windows that opened out onto the mountain
that remained of the fall colors were bright dapples of
behind. On the veranda, five shallow wicker baskets
browns and yellows against the evergreens–dead leaves
were laid out in a patch of sunshine. Each basket
determined to stay off the forest floor a few more days.
contained thin slices of vegetables, including bright
The pale blue sky, brushed with wispy strands of cloud,
orange carrot discs, dried lotus root, seaweed and others
completed a scene that looked more like a watercolor
I was not familiar with. These are what I had come to
than reality. We arrived at the Yoon family house in the
taste today.
small town of Geochang. It was the smallest of the three jonggajip I had visited so far. On a property, about half a soccer field in size, was the main living area (Anche) and
Bugak–A Brief History & Process
separate guest quarters (Sarangche) both with their own courtyards. A set of giant doors led us into the quaint
I sat down with Mrs. Oh, a certified “Korean Food
property. The yard was mostly comprised of sand and
Master”, to learn more about Bugak. Mrs. Oh’s distant
dirt, with some bare bushes around the edges. At the
father–in–law, Yun Gyeong Nam, had contributed
second door, a large stone arched over a small drainage
towards many victories during the Japanese invasion of
slot and led us into the main courtyard in front of the
Korea from 1592～1598. With victory came status and
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Bugak was mainly a specialty snack for nobles. I felt honored to be given a taste despite my lack of nobleness!
Bugak Today My first thought was, “What’s the ‘proper’ way to eat these?” Mrs. Oh explained that traditionally chopsticks were used but recently Bugak had become a finger food, which she fully endorsed. I picked up the nearest chip, shaped like a small conch, and popped it into my mouth. Crunch, crunch crunch. It was delightful– light, puffy, a little sweet and a bit salty! Honestly, I was surprised that something which looked so healthy, could taste so good. My favorite chips were the chili pepper ones with just the right hint of spice. Now I knew why Bugak is considered a specialty in Korea and increasingly abroad. The sun dipped behind thus many visitors to the Yoon home, so a good host
the mountains. Of course it was impossible to leave
always had to have some fine food on hand. These foods
without a trunk full of Geochang apples, persimmon
needed to store well, look good, taste exceptional and be
and a big box filled with a variety of Bugak from the
ready in an instant. Bugak fit the bill.
gracious Mrs. Oh–actually, I’m munching my way
Bugak is made by deep frying an assortment of roots
through a package right now. I would choose Bugak
and vegetables, many of which most Westerners have
over crisps any day.
never heard of. The more familiar ingredients include potatoes, carrots, chili pepper and Korean laver. Camellia, burdock and chrysanthemum leaves, along with shoots of Ailanthus altissima, fall into the lesser known category. These ingredients are hand–cut, sun dried, and then coated with chapssalpul, a glutinous rice paste which helps preserve food, and then they are fried in perilla or soybean oil. As you can imagine, collecting, washing, cutting, drying, battering, frying and packaging Bugak was a labor– intensive process, and increased the value of the cuisine.
The writer and photographer of this column is Gregory David Samborski, a photographer and writer from Canada. He enjoys writing and photography, and has been viewing Korea’s people, objects and landscapes through his lens for the past seven years.
Furthermore, in earlier times, the oil and grains used in the process were rare and thus expensive. Therefore,
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Tasty Story K- FOOD ISSUE
The First
Hansik Week
Hansik, Containing ‘Delight’ For two days, from October 24 to 25, the plaza at Namsangol Hanok Village in Jung-gu, Seoul, was full of a delicious enthusiasm. It was the debut year of the Hansik Week festival, which presented the theme “Korean food: Deep rooted trees don’t wobble.” The festival featured a variety of zones designed to house exhibitions, experience and events, as well as various programs that entertained visitors throughout the event period. As the celebration ended in a festive mood, many visitors were convinced that the festival would prove to be a solid cornerstone in the movement to globalize Korean cuisine and its culture. Written by Lee So-yeong Photographed by Choi Hye-jeong
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hide their excitement. Finally, the moderator publically announced the start of the event. Among those present were Lee Dong–phil, the minister of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs; Kang Min–su, chair of the Korean Food Foundation; Seo Dae–won, director of the Korean Food Foundation; chefs Leo Kang and Judy Joo, brand ambassadors of Hansik Week; ambassadors to Korea from various nations with their spouses; and other dignitaries. Chair Kang opened the event with a commemorative speech, saying, “We are truly overjoyed to be in charge of this festival,” openly expressing his ambition “to approach this festival as an opportunity to emphasize the fundamentals of Hansik through its past, present and future,” amid hearty applause. The commemorative remarks delivered by chefs Kang and Joo–who had been appointed brand ambassadors for the festival and ceremony–also left an impression. “We feel a uniquely strong sense of duty about our titles as invited brand ambassadors,” said Kang, who spoke of how Korean food needs to move beyond now–familiar foods such as bulgogi or bibimbap and work toward globalizing foods with regional characteristics from all eight provinces in the nation. Joo added that for Korean food to be widely beloved, it was necessary to consider ways to adapt it to fit contemporary preferences rather than stubbornly adhering to traditional methods. Soon after, it was time for the celebratory cutting of the rice cake to commemorate the launch of the festival, with participants enjoying the appetizing food, excellent company and refreshing autumn air. 1
Teaching the fundamentals of Korean cuisine
It was 10 a.m. on Oct. 24. The first Hansik Week (sponsored
1. The rice cake cutting ceremony to commemorate the launch of the first Hansik Love, Hansik Week 2. Lee Dong-phil, minister of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, viewing the healthy meals from eight regions exhibition at the Cheonwoogak Stage.
by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the direction of the Korean Food Foundation) was about
to make its official debut, and the Hanok Village plaza was filled with an eclectic mix of visitors, young and old, and of diverse nationalities, lining up in twos and threes. Whether it was the novelty of the festival or the promise of new experiences, the visitors could not
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The participants were trying their hardest, engrossed as they were in the exotic fusion Hansik cooking. “Gochujang pork bulgogi is usually eaten wrapped in lettuce, so I wondered whether it would work with a tortilla, but it is truly delicious! I should try this at home,” said Park Ji-young from Seongbuk-gu, Seoul, savoring the meal. The Cheonwoogak Stage, featuring healthy spreads hailing from Korea’s eight provinces, was bustling all day. A seasonal autumn meal featuring Asian pear, pomegranate, sea bream, dried herring and 1
other specialties from each of the regions elicited a particularly positive response. The dishes on display were as picturesque as they were delicious, drawing professional and amateur photographers alike. The star of the festival was, of course, the experience zone,
Simple for anyone
w h e re a Ha n s i k c o o k i n g expert had been invited so that visitors could try their hand at creating enjoyable
Hansik snacks such as a sherbet of ripe persimmon or a palace tarae, a kind of honey cake once served to royalty. Visitors also had the chance to see the process 2 1. Korean Food Foundation Chair Kang Min-su making commemorative remarks for the “Hansik Love Competition” for College Students on Oct.25 2. The Judy Joo Hansik Demonstration 3. The Hansik experience zone at Namsangol Hanok Village
of making a Korean traditional alcoholic beverage called dongjeongchun, which is said to have only been served to the king because so little alcohol was produced relative to how much rice was used. The persimmon sherbet was especially popular–simple to make but delicious. The palace tarae performance, where a dough kneaded with honey was pulled at either
As soon as the cannons were
end until it became a thin, thread–like string of toffee,
fired for the salute marking
was unbelievably captivating. I couldn’t help but smile
the official opening of the
at the serious expressions on the faces of the children,
festival, the booths circling
wrapping the dough and stretching it in their adorably
the plaza started coming alive
small hands.
with activity. That’s when a
The food styling session from Kang Da–heon, director
spicy smell wafted subtly over to where I was standing–
of KTT, and Sohn Yeong–jin, director of the Korea
and I couldn’t help but try and find it. Following the
Food Service Industry Development Institute, who
directives of my nose, I stumbled upon chef Joo in the middle of the lecture titled “Judy Joo’s Hansik
demonstrated a sophisticated way of plating kimchi
Demonstration with Homemaking Power Bloggers.”
cabbage kimchi, if you align the leaves before rolling
The session featured cooking lessons with two of Joo’s
them up and slicing them, the result will look like a
own recipes for garlic fried chicken and gochujang pork
flower in bloom. Next, you place the leaves in a shallow
bulgogi tortillas.
dish, such as a measuring cup, gathering them together
The nutritious world of Hansik
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when serving it to guests was also helpful. With Napa
and tying it all with a chive strand for a cute pouch
Jun–hyeong and Kim Ji–hye featured a variety of events
shape. According to one of the bystanders who tasted the kimchi, “It’s a bit spicy, but it's so pretty that it’s
including a dialogue with the audience on traditional
like popping a landscape painting into your mouth.”
fantastic sand art show with Hansik as the theme.
tea, a fusion traditional Korean music show and a Besides the above, the festival also had a rich lineup of
A Diverse Event
On the first day of the festival
programs that attracted audiences all throughout the
chef Kang also led a discussion on the topic of “The Future of
event period, from a Seoul Taekwondo performance
Hansik” with students who
UNESCO to a roulette game, a street survey on Korean
are either studying in relevant
food and a photo zone where visitors could try on
and a corner to sign a petition to have Hansik listed by
fields or members of a Hansik Expedition. “There is a need to improve the marketing
traditional clothes.
system overall through menus that emphasize regional
College Students that happened on the second day
characteristics,” according to Kang, who also stressed
ended with students Lim Se–eun and Lee Yun–ju from
the need for attention to detail in any strategy aiming to
the Suwon Science College Global Hansik Cooking
globalize Hansik. The students responded that all this
Department taking the Minister of Agriculture, Food
needed to be accompanied by a public relations effort
and Rural Affairs Prize, and students Park Hye–mi and
that included culture, emotion and information on
Song Dae–eun from the Baewha Women’s University
Hansik so that non-Koreans would learn about Hansik
Traditional Cooking Department winning the Korean
in a more organic, contextualized way, and with this determined expression of their opinions, the students
Food Foundation Chair Prize. The first “Hansik Love, Hansik Week,” a celebration of
demonstrated hope for the future.
taste that complemented the beauty of the yellowing
Set against the skyscrapers and dimming sun, the
leaves, was an exuberant, festive occasion where
Moonlight Family Concert added yet more flavor to
inspiring hope in the future of Hansik worldwide.
On the other hand, the Hansik Love Competition for
the festival. The concert, emceed by comedians Park 3
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Tasty Story Seasonal Recipe
Tasting the Freshness of This Season with Seasonal Ingredients
Winter Fusion Hansik Dishes Gul Tteok Guk(Oyster rice cake soup) This crowd–pleasing dish incorporates the popular shellfish into the tteok guk that Koreans eat on the first day of the New Year. With its refreshing and clear broth, it’s a pleasant departure from the usual beef bone stock found in traditional Korean variation.
• Ingredients
• Preparation
500 g garaetteok (long sticks of rice cake) 1 cup fresh oysters 1 tablespoon radish juice ¼ block dubu 5 cups anchovy stock ½ cup sliced chives ½ teaspoon minced garlic Korean soy sauce, to taste Salt, to taste
Step 1. Rinse oysters in light brine. Drain and drizzle radish juice over. Step 2. Dice the dubu into 1 cm cubes and set aside. Slice chives. Step 3. Slice rice cake sticks diagonally into thin slices and place in boiling anchovy stock. When the rice cake is cooked, add the oysters and tofu and bring to boil. Step 4. Add minced garlic and Korean soy sauce, to taste. Step 5. Pour into serving bowl and garnish with sliced chives.
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The bounty that Korea’s mountains and fields have to offer is best tasted in autumn; with winter, the seasonal best moves into the ocean, and Korea’s winter seafood is as fresh as ice is cold. Read on for recipes that use fresh, seasonal ingredients to strengthen and warm up our bodies in the winter cold. Recipes and food styling Lee Yun-hye (Food Studio Saigan) Coordinator by Leem Sung-eun Photographed by Kim Na-eun
Spicy cockle salad With its special chewy texture and savory flavor, cockles are an all– time favorite for banchan. This recipe offers a twist and uses cockles with various fresh greens to produce a refreshing salad with a spicy kick.
• Ingredients
1 kg cockles 3 brussels sprouts 30 g water parsley 50 g bellflower ⅓ cucumber 5 sesame leaves 1 green Korean chili 1 red Korean chili ½ teaspoon sesame sesame oil, to taste • Marinade
Ingredients 2 tablespoon gochujang 2 tablespoon gochu flakes 2 tablespoon plum sauce 1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon chopped scallion 1 tablespoon starch syrup 1 teaspoon vinegar • Preparation Step 1. Wash cockles thoroughly several times. Step 2. Put cockles in boiling water and stir until cooked. Scoop cockles out, remove meat from shells and season meat with sesame oil. Step 3. Trim brussels sprout stems, pull the leaves apart, and blanch in boiling salted water. Slice water parsley into 4-5 cm lengths. Step 4. Trim bellflower into thin, short pieces, and rub salt to remove its bitter
taste. Rinse off the salt in cold water. Step 5. Slice the cucumber diagonally, and cut the sesame leaves into four parts. Julienne the chilies into thin strips. Step 6. Combine the marinade ingredients. Add prepared marinade to the salad greens and toss to mix well.
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Tasty Story International Korean Menu Guide
A Hot Winter Dish to Keep You Warm How to Romanize Mandut Guk (Dumpling Soup)
French Soupe de raviolis Soupe de raviolis farcis de viande ou de légumes, que l’ on fait bouillir dans un bouillon de viande. Italian Zuppa di ravioli Carne e verdure tritate avvolte in sottili sfoglie di pasta e bollite in brodo di manzo. Talvolta si aggiungono delle fettine sottili di garae tteok.
Mandut Guk
밀가루 반죽을 얇게 밀어 고기나 채소 로 만든 소를 넣고 빚은 만두를 육수 에 넣어 끓인 음식이다.
English Dumpling Soup Minced meat and vegetables wrapped in thin flour shells and boiled in beef broth. Oval shaped rice pasta may be added. Japanese マンドゥクッ（餃子スープ） 小麦粉をこねて薄くのばしたものに肉や野菜 を詰めて餃子を作り、スープに入れて煮た料 理。薄く切ったお餅を加えることもある。 Chinese 韩国饺子汤 在擀好的面皮上包入肉或蔬菜馅料，煮熟或蒸熟 即可， 有时还可以油炸或油煎。
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Spanish Sopa de albóndigas Albóndigas de carne picada y verduras envueltas en capas delgadas de harina y hervidas en caldo de carne. A veces se añaden rodajas finas de garae tteok. German Kloßsuppe Klein geschnittenes Fleisch und Gemüse wird in dünne Teigscheiben gewickelt und dann in Rinderbrühe gekocht. Das Gericht kann auch mit ovalen Reisnudeln serviert werden. Vietnamese Súp bánh bao Thịt xay và rau được cuốn trong vỏ bột mỳ mỏng và luộc trong nước bò. Có thể cho thêm mỳ gạo hình ô-van. نيجعلا تارك ءاسحArabic ةقرم يف ةيلغمو نيحطلا نم ةقيقر ةقبط يف ةفوفلم تاوارضخو مورفم محل رقبلا محل. ةيواضيبلا زرألا اتساب ةفاضإ نكمي.
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Cover Story First Food of the New Year: Tteok Guk On the morning of each Lunar New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day, a dish known as tteok guk is cooked using white rice cake. Tteok, or rice cake, is originally prepared for ancestral rites, an ingredient that began to be served on the first morning of a new year to bring reverence. Eating tteok guk is considered a sacred act, and the experience is believed to bring corresponding maturity, something that is reflected in the Korean saying that compares oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s age to the bowls of tteok guk one has consumed. The Hansik winter issue features bap, a humble yet quintessential presence in Korean cuisine, and tteok, a sacred food, as well as a variety of different grains.