Magazine spring by TheTasteof Korea

2015 SPRING VOL . 04 | Special Theme | Hansik, Blooming | Tasty Story | Ancestral Recipes Chang Nyung Joâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Family House K-FOOD ISSUE Madrid Fusion 2015

CONTENTS 2015 SPRING VOL .04

Special Theme

Dinner Is Served

View Hansik, Blooming

Column 1 Hansik : A Cuisine that People around the World Enjoy

Column 2 Jongga, the Essence of Korean Food Culture That Is Blooming across the Globe

Column 3 Hansik Becomes an Industry

Theme Info Hansik : Taking the World by Storm

Tasty Story

It Tastes Better When Shared

Ancestral Recipes Chang Nyung Jo’s Family House

K-FOOD ISSUE Korean Food Foundation participate in Madrid Fusion 2015

Seasonal Recipe Spring Fusion Hansik Dishes

International Korean Menu Guide How to Romanize Sanchae Bibimbap

Publisher: Kang Min-su Date of publication: March 18, 2015 Publishing organization: Korean Food Foundation (www.koreanfood.net, www.hansik.org) PR team: Won Jis-uk, Lee Se-mi, Kim Bi-ni Address: No. 1306, aT Center, 27 Gangnam-daero (Yangjae-dong), Seocho-gu, Seoul Phone: 82-2-6300-2054 Fax: 82-2-6300-2055 Online: www.koreanfood.net, www.hansik.org, twitter.com/hansikkorea, facebook.com/hansikkorea, weibo.com/thetasteofkorea Planning, reporting and design: EEPOP (www.eepop.co.kr), 82-2-514-7567 This <HANSIK> can also be found at the KFF’s oﬃcial website (www.koreanfood.net, www.hansik.org). You can also view the magazine(Korean version) on your smartphone in a digital format by downloading the Korean Food app from the Apple App Store or Android Play Store or by scanning the QR code on the left. Keywords are Korean food, Korean Food Foundation, Korean food globalization, the Korean food magazine.

View

Hansik, Blooming The world is watching the Korean dining table. Admiring the fresh flavor and beauty of the elegantly colored obangsaek side dishes, further delighting that this food contains our own unique philosophy. Hansik, not just mere food but a Korean culture blossom on the international dining table. Cooking and styling by Lee Yun-hye (Food Studio Saigan) Photographed by Kim Na-eun Location National Hangeul Museum, Jangchungdan Park

Our ancestors enjoyed the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offerings as they were, fresh from nature. During spring, they filled the dining table with ingredients rich with our landâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s energy. And showed the wisdom of using brass and silver cutlery to filter out impurities in the food.

Plants that encapsulate the spirit of medicine and food share the same origin. Those with their nutrients kept intact through food preparation methods that have graced our dining table for many years serve up a healthy image of hansik. Hansik is a cuisine with a rich story. When you prepare a side dish, when you place a spoon on the table these contain the wisdom and philosophy of our ancestors. Now, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look forward to extending beyond just us toward blossoming as an international heritage.

Column

通

Hansik: A Cuisine that People around the World Enjoy The appeal of hansik and its innate natural goodness is growing as more people around the world show greater interest in the slow food movement. Hansik is known to international consumers as a healthy cuisine prepared from wholesome, unprocessed ingredients that are delivered fresh from nature. This article explores how Koreans can better ensure that, when it comes to seats at the global culinary dining table, a place is always set for hansik. Written by Kim Haeng-ran (Agricultural researcher, Functional Food & Nutrition Division, National Academy of Agricultural Science, Rural Development Administration)

The healthy food, Hansik The Korean wave is in full strength in China and Southeast Asia right now. One of the consequences of this cultural movement is that foreign audiences have been given an introduction to hansik, allowing them to think of Korean dishes as part of a typical meal. Foreigners’ awareness of the peninsula’s food, however, remains limited to popular items such as chimaek (fried chicken and beer), topokki and bibimbap. Should the Korean wave recede, so will foreign interest in Korean food. As such, it is important to strategize ways to cultivate foreign interest in a more diverse range of hansik, and to also explore how this interest can be maintained over the long term. In some parts of the world, food can act as a cultural index for a region. This relationship is partly due to the reality that, during times of economic hardship, food is often perceived as nothing more than a source of nutrients that one consumes to ensure physiological survival; developing an actual culinary culture is a step beyond this survival stage that occurs when a community begins to advance and flourish. Food can also serve as a symbol or image of a nation. For instance, Japanese cuisine’s efforts to retain the intrinsic flavors of its ingredients encapsulates the country’s regard for minimalism, while Chinese food evokes the fiery image of wok fire. Similarly, Italian food is synonymous with nature and sun, French food with art and Mediterranean delights with good health. What about Korean food? Our nation’s food culture has its roots in medicinal ingredients, or yaksikdongwon, the idea that eating serves to nurture and, at the same time, preserve health. Recent scientific studies have given the nod to hansik as a health-conscious cuisine, and this recognition has extended beyond the laboratory and into the dining hall. The American publication Health listed kimchi as one of the world’s top five healthiest

foods, while the United Kingdom’s Financial Times heralded Korean food as a nutritionally balanced option with great potential in obesity prevention. Between 2009 and 2012, Korea’s Rural Development Administration conducted a joint research project with the Beltsville Human Nutrition Research Center (part of the Agricultural Research Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture) and a research team from Johns Hopkins University. For 14 weeks, two groups of American test subjects of non-Asian ethnic background were assembled, with one offered hansik and the other a typical American meal plan. The research outcome supported the notion that a diet of Korean food can reduce the risk of lifestyle diseases such as diabetes and cardiovascular diseases. On an unrelated note, the participants also reportedly enjoyed their Korean meals. On top of the K-food craze, there are now other reasons to tuck into a meal of the country’s culinary delights.

Scientific evidence to push the globalization of Hansik Studies conducted on Korean test subjects have supported the notion that kimchi consumption can reduce the risk factors for obesity. In particular, subjects who consumed well-aged kimchi saw twice as much reduction in human body fat content compared to those who ate less mature kimchi, as well as a 10 mg/dL drop in cholesterol levels. It has also been established that the fermentation of vegetables, chili peppers, jeotgal (salted pollack roe, squid, or oysters) and various other ingredients that occurs during the making kimchi creates lactobacillus, a highly functional and beneficial bacteria. The wisdom of our ancestors in using fermentation is now being supported by modern science. The benefits of Korean food are not limited to cooking methods alone. Garlic is one of the most representative ingredients in the peninsula’s cuisine, and with garlic consumption per capita reaching up to 7.5 kg per annum, Korea is one of the largest consumers of garlic in the world. The health benefits of garlic have long been known, such as its role in improving blood cholesterol levels. In over 20 different research studies involving a total of 1,395 participants, a daily intake of 0.6-1 g of garlic powder (containing the equivalent nutrition of approximately 3 grams of garlic) over a period of 107 days saw a reduction of cholesterol levels by 13.64 mg/dL. The year 2014 saw similar scientific studies suggesting that garlic was a “functional ingredient,” opening the doors for advertising garlic’s effect on cholesterol reduction and commercializing garlic as a health food. Korean seasoned garlic is not the only local ingredient that is now promoted in such a way; other local ingredients are starting to make inroads to establish their status as functional ingredients. Meanwhile, efforts made on behalf of food industry, academia, government and researchers have enhanced the image of hansik and attested to the cuisine’s health benefits. In spite of this lobbying, a lot more must be done to draw attention to hansik on the global stage; while there have been substantial advances made in this area by individual interest groups, the momentum needs to be synthesized into a coherent, united campaign. Moreover, food culture should be all-embracing: Hansik should be enjoyed by anyone around the world-as easily accessible as Japanese or Italian food – and anyone with a keen interest should have the chance to learn to prepare a good, healthy hansik meal.

The globalization of a Hansik with both health and cultural value Among the different proposals for the globalization of hansik, one of the first points to consider is that there needs to be an ongoing push for research and support in this area. Food culture is said to be the most difficult to change among the different aspects of one’s daily life (food, clothing, shelter), meaning that the globalization of hansik will not be an easy task in the short term. Hansik globalization industries have yet to develop a firm infrastructure, and in terms of a long-term vision, we should explore product differentiation and evaluation of functional health benefits, as well as consumer trends and preferences in different cultural regions. In addition,

it is necessary to actively support the implementation of relevant trade law and export systems to facilitate the movement of food and ingredients. Second, strategic promotion should highlight both the health and functional characteristics of Korean food and culture, such as developing characters or mascots aligned with the image of hansik as a health-conscious choice, creating relevant media campaigns and organizing public outreach efforts through exhibitions and events. Developing a means of eliciting feedback regarding these initiatives will prevent them from being oneoff events. Third, in order to be embraced by a global market, traditional hansik needs to be adapted for the palates of its target regions. The process of altering the cuisine’s seasoning to meet a region’s preferences will draw consumers in, and with this will come curiosity and interest in exploring the more authentic, traditional methods for preparation. Comparable to how we Koreans have localized the sushi and spaghetti, it is worth exploring how hansik’s flavors could be adjusted to suit foreign tastes. Finally, it is imperative to increase the competitiveness of domestic and international Korean restaurants. To improve the quality of our product, we could encourage both meal and menu development and standardization, the improving of hygienic and professional standards and creation of tableware specifically designed for serving hansik. The most important requirement is for the Korean people to love and appreciate their own culinary heritage. With young Koreans now choosing bread over rice cake, it might seem hypocritical to tout the value of Korean food abroad; rather, we should also endeavor to reignite interest in hansik among the country’s natives living here. Many people are accustomed to eating the same dishes since birth, meaning that private and public efforts are required to lead this innovation, such as providing guidance to food industries, or encouraging locals to serve cakes made of rice cake instead of flour. When Korean culture is brought up in discussion among foreigners, concepts such as taekwondo or the country being a ‘divided nation’ are typically brought to mind. By successfully promoting hansik as a healthy food, we can look forward to hansik, as opposed to any other imagery, becoming the international symbol for Korea.

The author Kim Haeng-ran, an agricultural researcher, received her Ph. D. in food science from Ewha Womans University, and is executive director of both the Korean Society of Dietary Education and the Korean Society of Community Nutrition. She co-authored ‘Korea’s Traditional Local Cuisine’ and ‘Good Morning, Hansik.’

Column

Jongga and the essence of Hansik culture After familiarizing myself with 142 households and more than 400 dishes over the course of 16 years, I came to one conclusion about jongga cuisine: the everyday jongga dining table is no different from your usual Korean meal. However, ritual foods are an entirely different story; no matter the cost, the wife of the eldest jongga son, the jongbu, must ensure that sufficient food is prepared so that a feast may be amply shared with village neighbors. The eldest son in a jongga household, or the jongson, is the representative of his family or clan who dedicates his life to upholding the traditions of jesa (rituals honoring ancestors). Ancestral rites involve having the family’s descendants bow in silent acknowledgement of their ancestors’ virtues, and are also a living display of traditional food culture. Such rituals represent a blend of deep cultural meaning, from the ceremonial tableware to the customs and conventions of the ceremony to the spiritual ideology embedded in each part of the process. A notable ritual is the bulcheonwi, or ‘immovable ancestral tablet’ ritual (held to commemorate a distant ancestor who had been commended for extraordinary contributions, 不遷位), which has been submitted for consideration as a UNESCO World Intangible Cultural Heritage listing.

Jongga, the Essence of Korean Food Culture That Is Blooming across the Globe In Korean culture, the term ‘Jongga’ refers to a household that has descended from a distinguished ancestor, a legacy passed down through the eldest son of each subsequent generation. The concept of jongga is viewed by some as the essence of Korean culture and the root of the Korean psyche; some would even suggest that the traditional food of jongga households represents the foundation of hansik culture. In recent times, foreigners have shown keen interest in Korean food, and subsequently in jongga as well. This trend beneﬁts the global promotion of hansik as jongga goes beyond mere food; understanding the jongga tradition will mean understanding the spirituality of Korean food culture. Written by Lee Yeon - ja (Director of Jongga Culture Research Institute) Photographed by Gregory David Samborski

Another there is the dining table that symbolizes filial piety, the suyeonsang, or birthday (longevity) table. This dining table made international news when it was lavishly recreated for England’s Queen Elizabeth II, who visited Andong on her birthday. The event piqued the world’s interest in jongga food and its symbolism in relation to the Korean spirit and culture.

Jongga and its globalization August 2010 saw the move toward registering several jongga households with UNESCO, and also a general excitement that jongga food was soon to be recognized as a native dish. Such discussion was frequent in the media, leading foreigners to actively seeking out famous jongga households to learn about Korean traditional food. Overall, the result of this international attention is a wider recognition for the value of jongga and the essential role it has played in preserving the daily living culture and thus was of great importance to understanding Korean food. In light of this surge of interest in Korea’s traditional clan culture over the past decade, the tight gates of jongga households, closed for hundreds of years, have slowly begun to open up to outsiders. The image of the jongson and jongbu as stern authority figures has slowly given way to that of gentle and smiling hosts greeting visitors, and historic, outdated hanok have been renovated with new amenities such as washrooms and boilers. Old furniture pieces are being restored and given new life as interior decor pieces, and fresh ingredients from local gardens are served upon the dining table. Jongga tableware, food, and dining table all come with distinctive decorative embellishments: the dishes with unique decorative patterns, the food with garnishes symbolizing the harmonious obangsaek (the five colors representing elements of the universe), and the dining table with hanji (handmade paper) tablecloth. In addition, the increasing popularity of jongga cuisine has also revitalized surrounding neighborhood farms. The increasing number of tourists looking for authentic jongga tourist experiences is a testament to these efforts having not gone to waste. Jongga tourism packages are easily available: You may find yourself delighting in a course of seven dishes served in traditional brass bowls while you sit in an authentic sarangchae (a detached room in a hanok where, historically, men entertained male guests) with pillars engraved with gems of wisdom. Alternatively, you might enjoy a good night’s rest in a chamber that witnessed the birth of a great historical figure such as Yi Hwang (1501–1570), a great neo-Confucian scholar from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) who appears on the KRW 1,000 note. Another noteworthy cultural artifact is the long line of jongga cookbooks that have been produced over the generations. Famous examples include the ‘Suunjapbang (Various Recipes for High Cuisine),’ handed down from generation to generation for over 500 years to descendants of the Gwangsan Kim clan, Yean branch in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. There is also the first Hangul cookbook, titled ‘Eumsikdimibang (Understanding the Flavor of Food),’ that was written over 330 years ago by the jongbu Lady Jang. The latter is presently held by the Jaeryeong Yi clan, Seokgye jongga, and efforts are being made to have it recognized by UNESCO. The flavors and techniques associated with these dishes are such that a mere mouthful of an authentic jongga meal would promote Korean food more effectively than the most aggressive marketing campaign. Once locked within the confines of the hanok’s anchae (inner quarters), the efforts invested by each clan have meant that the true and pure flavor of jongga cuisine can be presented just as it had been back in the days of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910). For this very reason, the cultural value of traditional jongga food remains unparalleled, and is an invaluable gift to the descendants of each jongga family. The author Lee Yeon-ja is the director of Hanbaedal Institute of Korean Traditional Tea Culture and of the Jongga Culture Research Institute. Active in the study of Korean ancestral culture, she participates in research projects and also acts as advisory committee member for the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage’s survey of traditional foods and the National Rural Development Administration’s hansik panel. Apart from having published books such as ‘People of Jongga Clan Households’ and ‘Stories of the Jongga Clans,’ she also co-authored Jongga Ancestral Rituals and Food Culture.

Column

Economists are currently estimating that the global food industry will be valued at nearly KRW10 quadrillion (USD10 trillion) by the year 2030; the Internet, automobile, semiconductor and IT markets can hardly compare. In light of this pending economic boom, greater attention is being cast toward hansik, a commodity embodying both tradition and culture that has extended far beyond simply being Korean traditional food, giving it infinite potential to be developed into an industry. As the globalization of hansik continues to gain momentum, it is crucial to look at Korean cuisine from a diﬀerent perspective in order ensure its true value as an industry is not understated or overlooked. Written By Kim Young-gab (Professor, Hospitality and Tourism Management Department, Hanyang Cyber University) Photographed by Kim Na-eun

Hansik Becomes an Industry Redefining Hansik from an industrial perspective The globalization of hansik is a topic of great discussion in the restaurant industry. But before hansik can raise its status as a global product, its identity and potential as an industry must first be explored. If hansik is to stay true to its existing definition, it must be ‘Korean,’ and it must be traditional in nature. These days, however, the “nationality” of our food is becoming ambiguous, and there is a big gap between traditional dishes and the dishes being made today. For this reason, the term may be in need of a redefinition of sorts. In my opinion, hansik should be defined as food that is prepared mainly using ingredients produced or grown in Korea, food that has developed from the peninsula’s rich culinary heritage and, though usually consumed by Koreans, can be enjoyed by anyone. Establishing a definition of hansik is extremely important, as its nuances will reflect the cuisine’s current direction, and will thus determine its future. The definition of hansik should be something that is made by Koreans and enjoyed by both native Koreans and people the world over. From an industrial point of view, hansik can be said to be available at approximately 600,000 restaurants or stores in Korea. The domestic food service market, on average, is believed to generate about KRW60 trillion annually, though business analysts estimate that, when considering the percentage of patrons paying by credit card, the domestic casual dining market could actually be worth between KRW120 trillion and KRW200 trillion. The number of restaurants is also estimated to be between 450,000 and 830,000. Of Korea’s entire food service industry, hansik-related stores or restaurants make up around 60 percent and account for 80 percent of total sales. Though it is difficult to determine the exact percentage of the entire market that is made up of hansik-related stores, the hansik market generates roughly KRW100 trillion for the Korean economy annually. These statistics indicate that the hansik market is approximately five times larger than the domestic IT market, which generates around KRW20 trillion in revenue each year, and is double that of the automobile market, which is value at approximately KRW42 trillion (assuming that 1.4 million cars worth KRW30 million are sold).

Calculating the value of traditional food culture In most countries, the globalization of food culture is directly related to the country’s economic growth. When looking at famous dishes from around the world, one can see that the popularity of each can be correlated with the country’s fiscal standing, but when compared with industrial products or services, food is typically the last product to enter the global market. In the case of Korea, industrial products such as semiconductors, smartphones, automobiles and manufacturing firms have grown to become some of the world’s best. But as India and China continue to catch up to Korea’s success and Japan is strives to make their prices competitive by, for example, lowering the exchange rate and thus keeping their products affordable and with a competitive edge, the future of Korea’s manufacturing firms appears less certain. In response to this economic climate, the development of the industry surrounding hansik is one way to maintain the competitiveness of the country’s manufacturing industry. As seen in the definition of hansik, Korean food culture that is based on tradition and is rooted in national identity I something that cannot be replaced by any new technique or skill. Moreover, the ingredients that are produced are indigenous to or defined by regional or environmental characteristics and are thus difficult to replicate or replace; they cannot help but act as a natural obstacle that is difficult to overcome no matter what techniques, effort or research are put into it. A food culture that is created naturally by a region’s environmental or human characteristics is clearly set apart from things that can be developed through research and development. As such, one can assume that it won’t be long before hansik takes its place as the nation’s leading export, as no other country can compete with the superiority of Korea’s native cuisine.

Creating an exceptional concept and making high-quality Hansik a priority The potential of building an industry around hansik is directly related to the global popularity of Korean ware, which has led the way for Korean food’s worldwide recognition as being a healthy cuisine. In response, domestic food service companies are no longer simply importing famous foreign restaurant chains; instead, they are choosing to concentrate on creating medium to large food brands under the hansik concept, with great success. Many have been very successful, contributing to the overall growth of the hansik industry. More recently, a hansik buffet has begun gaining popularity, seeing sales that exceed those of Western–style or seafood buffets. With the ongoing increase in the number of fusion restaurants seen in Korea, it has become difficult to categorize many restaurants as specifically Korean restaurants. What can be presumed, however, is that the number of restaurants that use hansik as their main menu or concept will continue to rise. As these types of enterprises become more profitable, however, a closer inspection will occasionally reveal instances where quality has been compromised in favor of quantity. A large percentage of such restaurants claim to be traditional or authentic hansik restaurants, but their menus will simply consist of grilled pork or beef without the other amenities that make the hansik experience unique. Though typically minor operations– a lot of these restaurants are quite small in size and revenue–their influence on the larger industry must be addressed. In order to establish hansik as a competitive industry and one that is loved by people around the world, we must focus not only on quantity but on quality as well. Part of this involves developing exceptional store and restaurant concepts and raising the quality of Korean food products are issues that must addressed urgently. Moreover, rather than using price as a main promotional tool, resources should instead be directed toward fostering and training talented hansik chefs and building brands using their public personas.

The author Kim Young-gab is currently a lecturer at the Hospitality and Tourism Management Department at Hanyang Cyber University. He is also the vice president and editor-in-chief of the Foodservice Management Society of Korea, and a member of the policy planning committee at the Korea Franchise Association. He is the author of numerous books and publications on the Korean food industry, including ‘Food Service Startup Guides’, ‘Food Service Marketing’, ‘Trade Area Analysis’ and ‘Service Management for Foodservice Industry’.

Theme Info

Hansik: Taking the World by Storm Around the world, hansik (Korean traditional food) is being recognized for its fresh taste and for being nutritious and healthy. We’re proud to introduce hansik and take a look at why this time-honored cuisine has become so popular. Reference Korean Food Foundation, Rural Development Administration, The Korean Journal of Food and Cookery Science Illustrated by Kim Bo-gyeom

‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ creates a hansik page

Number of Korean food restaurants around the world China : approx. 5,500 Japan : approx. 4,900 USA : approx. 1,300

The website titled ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’, which is frequently visited by the world’s foremost food connoisseurs and experts, has dedicated one of its lists to Korean food culture and hansik, providing an introduction to the peninsula’s culinary heritage as well as relevant information for food lovers around the globe.

Kimjang culture added to UNESCO list Kimjang, the practice of making and sharing kimchi, became only the sixth food-related item to be recognized and added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The decision was made by UNESCO as they acknowledged that kimjang was not only the practice of making kimchi but was a food culture that preserved the Korean people’s identity and sense of belonging.

Bulgogi, the best commercialized convenience hansik Foreigners were asked to choose which hansik food item they’ d consider buying if it was made available for purchase as a convenience food. The top ﬁve choices were: 1. bulgogi (18.8 percent) 2. bibimbap (18.3 percent) 3. samgyetang (9.1 perce) 4. jjimdak (braised spicy chicken with vegetables) (7.0 percent) 5. guksu (noodles) (6.5 percent)

What impression does hansik make on foreigners? When foreigners were asked what came to mind when they thought of hansik , they said it was delicious ( 16 percent ) , spicy(14 percent), unfamiliar(9 percent), unique(6 percent), interesting(5 percent) and served hot(5 percent).

Tasty Story 16 20 24 26

It Tastes Better When Shared

Ancestral Recipes Chang Nyung Joâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Family House K-FOOD ISSUE Korean Food Foundation participate in Madrid Fusion 2015 Seasonal Recipe Spring Fusion Hansik Dishes International Korean Menu Guide How to Romanize Sanchae Bibimbap

Tasty Story Ancestral Recipes

Tradition, Beauty & Symbolism in a Meal Chang Nyung Joâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Family House

Down a narrow winding road, in the tiny town of Gangneung (on the East Coast of Korea), lies Chang Nyung Joâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jonggajib. The location was chosen to symbolize family: the home represents the child; the bamboo forest out back represents the mother cradling it; the tall pines on the ridge of the hill behind the jonggajib represent the father. Written and photographed by Gregory David Samborski Food and location Choi young-gan(wife of the heir to the Joâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Family)

Life is in the Details Clay pots for storing spices line the front wall and a garden grows around them, and even within some of them. Turtle carvings can be found everywhere: in wood and stone on the walls, doors and stairs. Being aquatic creatures, turtles were thought to protect the home against fire and to assure longevity. Mrs. Choi, a warm, motherly woman, welcomed me to her cozy abode with a bow. What differentiated her jonggajib from others I had visited, was that it was not only a well-maintained cultural asset, but was also still home to Mrs. Choi and her family. Little details like the clay-colored bricks of meju that hung drying from the rafters made the place homey. Mrs. Choi was eager to show me her property and urged me to come and see the dried flowers laid

into the hanji covered windows of her sarangchae.

My wife would say I’m a picky eater when it comes

She then led me to a large room filled with cooking

to Korean food; I, on the other hand, insist there

relics of the past—the tools her ancestors used to

are only a handful of foods I take issue with, such as

create their unique regional food—‘Saoui Cheot

shellfish, watery soups mixed with bones, and wet

Saengilsang.’

seaweed. This, however, was the first time during my nine years in Korea that I sat down to more than ten dishes on a table and enjoyed EVERY ONE of them!

The Tradition of Saoui Cheot Saengilsang

I even enjoyed the miyeok-guk—seaweed soup!

Saoui Cheot Saengilsang, is a special meal prepared

Rice, the prominent dish, was served in three

by the mother-in-law for the son-in-law on his

equally scrumptious forms: slightly sweet, sticky

first birthday after marriage into the family. It is

rice seasoned with a kind of cinnamon and nutmeg

delivered to his home in a basket and is meant to

mix; a coarse, yet delectably fluffy rice cake with

extend happiness, health and general well-being to

bits of herb and bean; and the star of the show—

the newlywed couple. Many of the foods, including

wootgitteok.

the way in which they are presented, have deep symbolic meaning. Saoui Cheot Saengilsang is a custom unique to Gangneung and is still currently

The Significance of Wootgitteok

practiced by a few families. Despite the fact that I

Wootgitteok, much like the icing on a cake, is

was neither a resident of Gangneung nor Mrs. Choi’s

designed to go on top of songpyeon to hide its

son-in-law I was given the opportunity to indulge in

imperfections and make it more aesthetically

the seventeen dishes that filled our table!

appealing. It begins as a circular base of thin white ttoek. Green, yellow and pink squares of tteok are carefully inlaid in an alternating pattern, and then adorned with slices of jujube and walnut. Finally, a pink rhododendron, complete with tiny stem and leaves, is meticulously placed on the remaining white surface of the tteok. The shape of wootgitteok also has significance. The design mimics the sun, assuring sunshine will be brought into the lives of the couple. The rhododendron on each of the six sun rays signifies six floral bouquets that hopefully will be presented to the couple during six or more special occasions in their lives. At first I found it difficult to eat the Wootgitteok because I did not want to destroy the work of art. The flowers were so smooth and delicate that they looked like they had been painted on in watercolors! Eventually, however, I overcame my inhibitions and discovered that the Wootgitteok tasted every bit as delicate as it looked. The tteok was extremely moist,

and the combination of smooth, soft textures, mixed with sweet syrup and chunky toppings, created a melody of tastes and textures. During the rest of my time at Mrs. Choiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jonggajib, I learned more about its history while experiencing many more wonderful flavors. I also learned that you, too, can do this by visiting the restaurant Mrs. Choi owns, Seojichogaddeul, next to her home. She assured me she would be happy to share the history and customs of the region with you when you come for a meal.

The writer and photographer of this column is Gregory David Samborski, a photographer and writer from Canada. He enjoys writing and photography, and has been viewing Korea's people, objects and landscapes through his lens for the past seven years.

Tasty Story K- FOOD ISSUE

Barley Gochujang and Jangajji: Tantalizing and Captivating Taste Buds around the World Representatives from the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the Korean Food Foundation participate in Madrid Fusion 2015 The Korean Food Foundation participated in the Madrid Fusion 2015, held between Feb. 2 and 4 this year, and took the opportunity to showcase Korea ’ s unique vegetable fermenting culture. The event offered the opportunity to display various traditional fermented foods such as jang (sauce), jangajji (pickled vegetables), fermented extracts and other seasonings and condiments and received a highly positive response among those in attendance. Here, we’ll relive the buzzing atmosphere of the event, which has captivated the taste buds of food aﬁcionados around the world. Photographed by Korean Food Foundation

Representatives from the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the Korean Food Foundation attend Madrid Fusion 2015

for gochujang (red pepper paste), jangajji, fermented

Madrid Fusion, which celebrated its 13th year this

Fermented Vegetables.’ The team also invited attendees

season, is a globally recognized exhibition that attracts famous chefs and food experts from all over the world.

to try an array of hansik dishes such as muchim (seasoned vegetables) and saengchae (julienned

Showcased through an eclectic range of display booths,

vegetable salads) that either incorporate the fermenting

extracts, dried vegetables and roots, traditional wine and various condiments and types of seasoning, all under the theme of ‘The Root of Healthy Hansik:

conferences and workshops, the exhibition was the

process themselves or were made with fermented

ideal platform for sharing new trends and techniques in

goods. The booth attracted more than 2,000 curious

global food culture. This was the second time that the

onlookers, including world-renowned culinary masters

Korean Food Foundation attended the event in the past

such as Carles Tejedor of famed Spanish restaurant

three years, and the foundation took the opportunity

Via Veneto, as well as Miguel Cobo and Honorato.

to put Korea’s traditional fermenting culture on display

The high-profile attendees took a keen interest in

for the world.

the information regarding hansik–and vegetable

This year, the presenters showcased the ingredients

fermentation in particular–saying that the presence of

both has been growing in the European region, with

the foreign audience, and many, including the media,

more and more chefs using jang in their dishes. Media

took great interest. Apart from the food and beverage

interest was also high, with more than 40 local media

options, the booth hosted quizzes and events related to

stations, including the national broadcaster, opting to

jang held for the entirety of the three–day exhibition,

cover the activity at the Korean booth.

ensuring that a good time was had by all. According to Kim Dong–hee, secretary general of the Korean Food Foundation,saying, “We were also able to

Demonstration by monk Wookwan, a Korean temple cuisine expert from Gameunsa Temple

see and learn from other countries and participants at the event in terms of how they promoted their cuisine and culture. With this experience, we will strive to

On the afternoon of Feb. 3, 200 visitors gathered at

promote hansik, which embodies our culture and

the multipurpose hall in order to attend the temple

history, and will work hard at making it possible for

cuisine demonstration by the Venerable Wookwan,

us to communicate with the world through hansik

head monk of Gameunsa Temple. Ven. Wookwan

someday.”

showed the audience how to make Korean traditional

At this year’s Madrid Fusion event, the foreign

barley gochujang, as well as two salads-nokchatyip mu mallaengi muchim (spicy green tea leaves and dried

audience response to fermented foods was far beyond

radish salad) and sagwa mallaengi muchim (spicy dried

being recognized as healthy and, in a similar manner,

the foundation’s original expectations. Korean cuisine is

apple salad)-using gochujang, and the event proved

the appeal of fermented foods, which are the core of

to be extremely popular. Audience members were

hansik, has grown over time. Rather than being put

particularly delighted when five attendees were given

off by the hansik dishes on offer, the foreign audience

some of the barley gochujang to take home. On top of

responded positively when given the opportunity to

this, Korean traditional wine and bite-sized treats were

taste the distinctive flavors for themselves. Above all

available for tasting at the promotion booth. Korean

else, the event was an excellent opportunity to further

traditional wine was served either on the rocks or as a

explore the potential globalization of Korean cuisine in

gin and tonic-style cocktail, making it more familiar to

the future.

7 1,4,6. At the Madrid Fusion 2015 event, the Korean Food Foundation showcased the ingredients for gochujang (red pepper paste), jangajji, fermented extracts, dried vegetables and roots, traditional wine and various condiments and types of seasoning under the theme of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Root of Healthy Hansik, Fermented Vegetablesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2. Monk Wookwan demonstrates how to make barley gochujang, a vital ingredient in Korean cuisine. 3,7. Monk Wookwan showcasing the unique Korean vegetable fermenting process that drew the attention of the global audience at the fermented foods demonstration event 5. Korean traditional wine and bite-sized treat tasting event 8. Korean ambassador to Spain, Park Hee-kwon, visiting the Korean Food Foundation promotion booth 9,10,11,12,13,14. The Korean Food Foundation held a variety of events promoting fermented foods at the Madrid Fusion 2015 event.

Tasty Story Seasonal Recipe

Full of Spring’s Freshness

Spring Fusion Hansik Dishes Burdock Japchae Burdock root is a prized ingredient in Korean traditional medicine. Although a common side dish item, here the root is used as an innovative replacement for glass noodles in this japchae recipe twistan excellent blend of crunch and taste.

• Ingredients 300g burdock root 5 green chilies 1 carrot(cut into 6 cm strips) 1/2 bag enoki mushrooms 2 tablespoons perilla oil 2 tablespoons roasted whole grains Sauce : 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon cooking oil 1 tablespoon oligosaccharide 1 teaspoon sugar Small amount of sesame oil and sesame seeds, to taste

• Preparation Step 1. Peel the burdock root and clean it thoroughly. Finely slice the plant into thin strips 6 cm in length and blanch in boiling water. Remove seeds from the chilies and julienne chilies and carrot. Step 2. Remove the bases of the enoki mushrooms and toss everything in the marinade. Step 3. Add the perilla oil and cooking oil to a hot pan and stir-fry the burdock strips. Mix in sauce with chilies and carrot, and continue to stir-fry. Turn oﬀ the ﬂame and add mushrooms for a final light cooking. Step 4. Transfer to serving plate and

sprinkle with roasted whole grains to serve. 1

Jukkumi(webfoot octopus) salad Fragrant and chewy jukkumi (webfoot octopus), the finest seafood in spring, is a great defense against lifestyle diseases and fatigue. Usually prepared in spicy sauce, jukkumi’s addition to a salad enhances the crisp and zesty taste, and serves as an excellent side dish.

• Ingredients

5-6 jukkumi 3-4 kumquats Salad greens of your choice • Dressing

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar Small serving of minced cheongyang gochu, 1 teaspoon each minced garlic, crushed onions and sesame oil, Lemon juice and ground pepper to taste

• Preparation Step 1. Coat the octopus with flour and rinse with cold water to clean it . Separate the tentacles from the heads. Divide the tentacles into 2-3 parts. Step 2. Mix the ingredients for the dressing and refrigerate to cool. Step 3. Steam the octopus heads in a pot of boiling water to cook thoroughly, adding the tentacles toward the end to blanch. Season the octopus with the dressing. Step 4 . Wash the salad greens and dry thoroughly. Halve and deseed the kumquats, then add them to the pan to lightly grill.

Step 5. Toss the kumquats , salad greens and octopus pieces with salad dressing and serve immediately. 1

Tasty Story International Korean Menu Guide

The colorful flavors of spring reawaken the taste buds. How to Romanize Sanchae Bibimbap (mountain vegetable bibimbap)

이탈리아어 Bibimbap con verdure di montagna Una versione di Bibimbap con erbe selvatiche di montagna, germogli e radici. Da miscelare a tavola con gochujang piccante. Un piatto ricco di profumi e sapori delle erbe selvatiche di montagna. 스페인어 Bibimbap de verduras de montaña Una versión de bibimbap cubierto con verduras silvestres de las montañas, hierbas, brotes y raíces. Para mezclar en la mesa con gochujang picante. Un plato lleno de aroma con el sabor de las verduras silvestres. 산에서 나는 각종 나물을 밥 위에 올리

Sanchae Bibimbap

고 고추장에 비벼 먹는 음식이다. 각각 특유의 맛과 향을 지닌 산나물들이 어우 러져 입맛을 돋운다.

영어 Wild Vegetable Bibimbap A version of bibimbap topped with wild mountain greens, herbs, sprouts, and roots. Mixed at the table with spicy gochujang. A fragrant dish filled with the flavor of wild mountain vegetables. 일어 サンチェピビムパッ（山菜ピビムパッ）山でとれるナムルに火を通してご飯の上にのせ、コチュジャンを混ぜて食べる。山菜の豊かな味と香りが食欲をそそる一品。 중국어 山菜拌饭山菜拌饭是用辣酱拌上各种煮熟或炒熟山野菜而成，各种山野菜特有的美味，可使人食欲大增。 프랑스어 Bibimbap aux légumes sauvages Bibimbap garni de légumes sauvages. Le riz s'imprègne de façon harmonieuse du goût et du parfum de chacun des légumes sauvages. A mélanger avec la sauce de pâte de piment.

독일어 Bibimbap mit Gemüsesorten aus dem Gebirge E i n e Va r i a t i o n v o n b i b i m b a p m i t w i l d e m Grüngemüse, Kräutern, Sprossen und Wurzelgemüse aus den Bergen. Wird am Tisch mit scharfer Gochujang Gewürzpaste gemischt. Ein aromatisches Gericht mit dem Geschmack wilder Gebirgsgemüsesorten. 베트남어 Bibimbap rau trên núi Một phiên bản bibimbap có các loại rau, thảo mộc, mầm và rễ từ núi xếp lên trên. Được trộn ngay tại bàn cùng với nước sốt gochujang. Một món nhiều hương vị với hương các loại rau vùng núi. ‫ لبجلا راضخ‬아랍어 ‫ لاكشأ نم رخآ لكش‬Bibimbap ‫معاربلاو باشعألاو تاتابنلا نم ةقبطب ىطغم‬ ‫ةيلبجلا ةيربلا روذجلاو‬. ‫ ةصلص عم ةلواطلا ىلع طلخت‬gochujang ‫ةراحلا‬ ‫مسمسلا تيزو‬. ‫ةيلبجلا ةيربلا راضخلا ةهكنب زيمتي ذيذل قبط وهو‬.

Cover Story Kimchi : Korea’ s Quintessential Dish If you ask any person with an interest in world cuisine to identify Korea’s signature dish, the answer will invariably be kimchi. Made by fermenting vegetables with salt - originally for preser vation purposes - kimchi possesses a bitter, savory flavor, and is very nutritionally rich. The dish is now gaining international acclaim for its abundance of vitamins and minerals, as well as its low fat content. In this month’s Hansik, we compiled a variety of stories about Korean cuisine, a food tradition that continues to attract attention from culinary enthusiasts from around the globe. Due to the ancient wisdom and philosophical depth that led to its creation, we look forward to witnessing kimchi’s lasting success in meals abroad.