Discover Setouchi by train
Dotted with more than a thousand islands large and small, the Seto Inland Sea between Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu is a marvel of natural beauty. The archipelago and its shores comprise the Setouchi area, where picturesque scenery meets a forward-looking blend of art, culture and cuisine.
With the Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train running along the Honshu coast of the Inland Sea the entire way between Shin-Osaka and Hakata stations, Setouchi is most convenient to explore by train. The Setouchi Area Pass provided by JR West allows for unlimited rides on JR trains throughout the region over a 7-day period. Some buses and ferries are also included.
The Setouchi Area Pass costs ¥22,000 (¥11,000 for children aged 6–11) and can be purchased online via the JR-West Online Train Reservation site before or during your trip. Passes are only available to foreign nationals entering Japan on a tourist visa.
Seat reservations
Setouchi Area Pass holders can reserve seats on trains in the area at no extra cost. Seat reservations can be made at station ticket offices and ticket vending machines. Online reservation is available for passes purchased via the JR-West Online Train Reservation site until they are exchanged for a physical pass.
Oversized baggage
Travelling on the Sanyo Shinkansen with a big bag in tow? If the total dimensions of your suitcase are between 160cm and 250cm, you’ll need to choose a seat with ‘oversized baggage’ space when making a seat reservation. There’s no extra fee for these seats.
JAPAN
SETOUCHI AREA*
*JR West Setouchi Palette Project area
ShinYamaguchi
Kokura
Hakata
Yamaguchi
Shimonoseki
Fukuoka Airport
Kitakyushu Airport YAMAGUCHI
Shin-Onomichi
JR Sanyo Shinkansen
JR train lines
Ferries
Buses
HIROSHIMA
Shin-Osaka
Kameoka
Your ultimate guide to Setouchi
Breathtaking landscapes, world-class art, unforgettable culinary experiences, architecture both traditional and trailblazing – the expansive Setouchi region has it all. But finding – and getting to – the real highlights can be a challenge, especially for first-time visitors.
With this guide, we’ve taken the work out of exploring the area. On pages 5 to 13 you’ll find seven easyto-follow model itineraries, each one centred on a specific JR railway station in Setouchi and tailored especially for Setouchi Area Pass holders.
Kobe (p5)
Kobe is a bustling port city with a population of 1.5 million – a fact you wouldn’t believe while exploring the surroundings of the local Shinkansen station, which has a crystal-clear stream burbling underneath it and lush greenery visible directly from the platform.
Okayama (p6)
Home to one of the three ‘great gardens’ of Japan, Okayama is steeped in history and has a mild climate considered ideal for growing fruit. The historic townscape of nearby Kurashiki, once a busy rice distribution centre due to its prime location on the Inland Sea, also evokes bygone days.
Kagawa (p7)
Kagawa is located on the island of Shikoku, across the Seto Ohashi Bridge from Okayama. The prefecture and its capital, Takamatsu, are famed for their thriving art scene; several key venues of the international Setouchi Triennale art festival are in Kagawa.
Fukuyama and Onomichi (p8-9)
Once a prosperous castle town, Fukuyama is proud of its past: the local Shinkansen station stands right in front of the fortress that lent the city its name. A 20-minute train ride from Fukuyama takes you to Onomichi, a shipbuilding centre and the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, a scenic 70-kilometre cycling route across bridges connecting six Inland Sea islands.
Hiroshima and Miyajima (p10-11)
A global symbol of the importance of peace, Hiroshima is a vibrant commercial and culinary centre on the delta of the Ota River, shaped by the river’s six channels and knitted together by bridges. The sacred Miyajima Island, a Unesco World Heritage site, lies just a short train and ferry ride away.
Yamaguchi (p12)
Out on the western tip of Honshu, mountainous Yamaguchi is bounded by the sea on three sides, ensuring a steady supply of superb seafood. Known as ‘the Kyoto of the West’, the city can be reached via the Shin-Yamaguchi Shinkansen station.
Kitakyushu (p13)
Alight at Kokura Station to explore the rugged charms of Kitakyushu, a powerhouse of a port city that gave birth to Japan’s modern steel industry in the early 1900s and remains a key industrial hub –as well as one of the country’s premier sushi cities.
Photo: Wai Chung/Dreamstime
Shin-Kobe Station
Walk (10 mins)
Kobe Nunobiki Ropeway
Get a scenic overview of Kobe in ten minutes by riding this aerial lift up the slope of Mt Rokko.
Kobe Nunobiki Herb Garden
A sprawling showcase of all things herb, set along a winding path that takes you through a dozen different fragrant gardens.
à1-4-3 Kitanocho, Chuo, Kobe. www.kobeherb.com/en
Walk (30 mins)
Falls
Bask in the spray of the 43-metre-high Ontaki, the largest of the four cataracts that make up Nunobiki Falls.
Ontaki Chaya
Walk (30 mins)
Try yudofu, a hotpot-like dish with tofu, veg, pork and conger eel boiled in a light dashi broth, at this century-old eatery overlooking the Ontaki waterfall.
à45 Nunobiki Yuenchi, Fukiaicho, Chuo, Kobe / Closed Thu. ontaki.jimdofree.com
Bus 92 from Nunobiki bus stop, alight at Kamitsutsui 1-chome (10 mins)
09:00 11:00 17:00 18:00 09:30 11:30 13:00 15:00 10:00 START
Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum
See captivating displays of myriad woodworking instruments and learn how Japanese carpentry evolved from the Stone Age to the present.
à7-5-1 Kumochicho, Chuo, Kobe / Closed Mon (Following weekday if Mon is a holiday). dougukan.jp
Yokoo Tadanori Museum of Contemporary Art
Each exhibition here highlights a different aspect of the indomitable artist’s immense oeuvre. The ‘eyeball’ and ‘mirror’ corridors contribute a permanent touch of psychedelia.
à3-8-30 Haradadori, Nada, Kobe / Closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). ytmoca.jp
Koalas, capybaras, tortoises, goats – it’s cute animals galore at the retro Oji Zoo, located just outside the Yokoo Tadanori museum.
Bus 92 from Kamitsutsui 1-chome bus stop, alight at Nunobiki (10 mins)
Stylish gallery and shop highlighting Japanese and international artists, tucked away inside a nondescript apartment building. Look out for the special exhibitions and events.
à2F, 7-4-4 Kumochicho, Chuo, Kobe. instagram.com/obg_eu
Bus 2 from Kumochi 6-chome bus stop, alight at Kanocho 2-chome (6 mins)
Yoshoku Paris
Get acquainted with Kobe’s proud tradition of Japanised ‘Western’ food by way of sublime deep-fried shrimp, beef katsu and faucet-poured beer.
à2-2-12 Nunobikicho, Chuo, Kobe. instagram.com/paris_boozys
Photo: Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway
OKAYAMA
08:00
Hotel Granvia Okayama
Directly connected to Okayama Station and hard to beat when it comes to convenience.
Higashiyama Line tram from Okayama-Ekimae Station, alight at Shiroshita Station (8 min)
Walk (10 min)
08:30
Okayama Korakuen Garden
The immaculately manicured lawns, pretty ponds and artificial hill of this samurai-era garden make a memorable backdrop for your morning stroll.
à1-5 Korakuen, Kita, Okayama. okayama-korakuen.jp/section/english
Hekisuien
Recharge with coffee and a skewer of freshly fried, delectably crispy kibidango (bite-sized millet dumplings) across the moat from Okayama Castle. à1-6 Korakuen, Kita, Okayama. instagram.com/hekishuien
Walk (10 mins)
Higashiyama Line tram from Shiroshita Station, alight at Okayama-Ekimae Station (8 mins)
JR Sanyo Line train from Okayama Station, alight at Kurashiki Station (18 mins)
Walk (15 mins)
Ohara Museum of Art
Anchored by El Greco’s Annunciation, the Ohara’s star-studded collection is also notable for its range of Japanese modern and contemporary art. Mingei pottery is displayed in a historic rice warehouse next door.
à1-1-15 Chuo, Kurashiki / Closed Mon (open on holidays). ohara.or.jp
Walk (5 mins)
13:00 14:00 15:00 15:30 18:00 11:00 09:00
Yuurin-an Okayama Premium Wagyu House
Yuurin-an’s wagyu roast beef over rice arrives covered with a smoke-filled cloche, and you’ll want to have your camera ready when the dome is lifted.
à11-24 Honmachi, Kurashiki / Closed Wed, Thu (open on holidays). instagram.com/yuurin_an_wagyu
Kurashiki Bikan Historical Area
Historic Kurashiki centres on a canal lined with centuries-old storehouses which have been turned into shops, cafés and museums.
Kurashiki Denim Street
Kojima south of central Kurashiki makes some of the best-quality jeans in the world. Browse the wares and dig into indigo-coloured soft serve here.
à1-10-11 Chuo, Kurashiki. instagram.com/denim.streets
Crafts enthusiasts flock to this captivating shop stocking wares by the Kurashiki company credited with bringing Japanese washi masking tape to the masses.
à5-12 Honmachi, Kurashiki / Closed Tue. instagram.com/tane_mt
Walk (17 mins)
JR Sanyo Line train from Kurashiki Station, alight at Okayama Station (18 mins)
Bus 502, 533 or 535 from Okayama Station, alight at NTT
Okayama-mae (5 mins)
Walk (4 mins)
Kurashiki Tane Naritaya Naka
Must-try dishes at this quintessential Okayama izakaya include sushi rolls and torisu – slices of chewy chicken thigh and glass noodles marinated in ponzu.
à1-2-43 Omotecho, Kita, Okayama / Closed Sun. okayama-naritaya.com/tatenpo/nakaten
Photo: Kurasiki Tane
KAGAWA
09:30
Okayama Station
If you have a day to spare, head to Naoshima, the island from where Setouchi’s transformation into a world-class artistic destination began.
Seto Ohashi Bridge
Score a window seat on the JR Marine Liner to admire the islanddotted Inland Sea through the steel structure of the world’s longest double-deck bridge.
JR Seto-Ohashi Line Marine Liner train from Okayama Station to Takamatsu Station (55 min)
Rainbow Loop Bus from Takamatsu Station, alight at Konyamachi (6 min)
Takamatsu Art Museum
The permanent collection centres post-war Japanese modern and contemporary art from Isamu Noguchi to Takashi Murakami, and the special exhibitions are just that – special.
à10-4 Konyamachi, Takamatsu / Closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). instagram.com/ takamatsuartmuseum
min)
Merikenya Takamatsu Ekimae
Relish Kagawa’s famed udon noodles hot in soup broth, cold dipped in savoury sauce or with a side of tempura, from early morning to late evening.
à6-20 Nishinomarucho, Takamatsu. merikenya.com
Book Marute
This artsy seaside bookstore spotlights the work of local artists, authors and creators from zinemakers to internationally renowned luminaries like the Takamatsu-born Genichiro Inokuma.
à3-2 Kitahamacho, Takamatsu. instagram.com/bookmarute
Walk (15 min)
JR Kotoku Line train from Takamatsu Station, alight at Yashima Station (16 min)
Yashima-Sanjo Shuttle Bus from Yashima Station to Yashima-Sanjo (20 min)
Yashimaru
Architect Takashi Suo’s visionary mountaintop visitor centre takes the shape of an irregularly winding corridor covered with 30,000 roof tiles made from local granite.
à1784-6 Yashima Higashimachi, Takamatsu / Closed Tue (Wed if Tue is a holiday). instagram.com/yashimaru_takamatsu
Yashima-Sanjo Shuttle Bus from Yashima-Sanjo, alight at Kotoden Yashima Station (10 min)
Kotoden Shido Line train from Kotoden Yashima Station to Kawaramachi Station (16 min)
Walk (5 min)
Dorsia Takamatsu
The wood-cloaked café interior catches the eye, while Japanese coffeeshop classics like ‘Napolitan’ spaghetti and colourful ice cream floats guarantee plenty of culinary amusement. The indemand Masanao Hirayama serves as Dorsia’s art director.
à2-1-6 Shiogamicho, Takamatsu. instagram.com/dorsia_kobe
Walk (12
Photo: Takamatsu Art Museum Photographer: Shintaro Miyawaki
FUKUYAMA
14:30 START
09:00
Fukuyama Station
Kick off your day in Fukuyama with a bus ride to the picturesque fishing town of Tomonoura.
Tomotetsu bus from Fukuyama Station to Tomonoura (30 min)
10:00
Shinshoji Zen Museum and Gardens
Seek out the vast grounds of Shinshoji Temple to learn about Zen Buddhism first-hand through activities like tea ceremonies, meditation and copying sutras. à91 Kamisanna, Numakumacho, Fukuyama. szmg.jp/en
Tomonoura and its narrow alleys lined with traditional merchant homes served as inspiration for Studio Ghibli’s wondrous anime film Ponyo
Photo: Fukuyama Convention & Visitors Association
Tomotetsu bus from Tomonoura to Fukuyama Station (30 mins)
12:30
Tomonoura Iti Setouchi
The ground floor of what was once a huge department store is now a community-focused container for a coworking space plus indie shops and cafés, including trendy grocery Need the Place. à1-1-1 Nishimachi, Fukuyama. instagram.com/iti_setouchi
Tomotetsu bus from bus stop no. 6 at Fukuyama Station for Chitosebashi/Abuto/Tsuneishi/Utsuminokyo (on weekdays) or Miroku no Sato (on weekends and holidays), alight at Tenjinyama (30 mins)
Walk (15 mins)
Walk (15 mins)
Tomotetsu bus from Tenjinyama bus stop to Fukuyama Station (20 mins)
JR Sanyo Line train from Fukuyama Station, alight at Onomichi Station (30 mins)
Walk (7 mins)
18:00 STAY
The Restaurant @ Onomichi U2
You don’t have to be a cyclist to appreciate the marine delicacies served at biking base U2’s signature eatery. The seafood platters are especially good value.
Hotel Cycle @ Onomichi U2
After dinner, retreat to the cosy Hotel Cycle under the same roof, where all rooms are equipped with bike racks and exude a sense of cool calm.
à5-11 Nishi-Goshocho, Onomichi. instagram.com/onomichi_u2
ONOMICHI
09:00
Onomichi Station
Bus for Shimin Byoin/Higashi-Onomichi Station/Shakomae from Onomichi Station, alight at Nagaeguchi (5 mins)
Senkoji Temple Mountain Ropeway (3 mins)
Senkoji
Peak Observatory
A monumental viewing platform with spectacular vistas of Onomichi, the Onomichi Bridge and the island-dotted Inland Sea in the distance.
à20-2 Higashi-Tsuchidocho, Onomichi.
Onomichi City Museum of Art
The mostly Onomichi-related art pairs nicely with the views of the city from the picture windows on the second floor of this Tadao Ando-designed museum.
à17-19 Nishi-Tsuchidocho, Onomichi / Closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). onomichi-museum.jp
09:30 15:00 17:00 18:00 10:15 11:30 13:00 14:30 START
Senkoji Temple
Senkoji claims a 1,200-year history and certainly feels almost as ancient as the many giant boulders its halls and pagodas stand among.
à15-1 Higashi-Tsuchidocho, Onomichi. instagram.com/onomichi.senkouji
Komedoko Shokudo
We love this fermentation-focused portside canteen’s moreish burger patty, doused in a sauce made with low-sodium Fuchu miso. Plant-based options are available, too.
à5-2 Higashi-Goshocho, Onomichi / Closed Mon. instagram.com/ komedokoshokudou
Shimanami Japan Onomichi Port Bicycle Rental Terminal
All fuelled up after lunch? It’s time to hop in the saddle and cycle the Shimanami Kaido. Prices for rental bikes start from ¥3,000 per day. àHigashi-Goshocho, Onomichi. visitshimanami.com
Onomichi – around Mukaishima –back to Onomichi
This two-hour, 20-kilometre loop lets you get a taste of the Shimanami Kaido scenery without exhausting your energy reserves. After returning your bike, recharge with a cup of pure 100-percent juice made from the wide variety of citrus fruits grown on the islands near Onomichi.
Kankitsu Stand Orange
à1-1 Higashi-Goshocho, Onomichi. instagram.com/kankitsustand_orange
Ittoku
At the end of a day of healthy choices, reward yourself with a teppanyaki feast. Ittoku’s speciality, the omelette-like tonpeiyaki, is best washed down with stiff citrus drinks.
à1-10 Nishi-Tsuchidocho, Onomichi / Closed Mon. instagram.com/ onomichi_ittoku
Walk (15 mins)
HIROSHIMA
START
09:00
Hotel Granvia Hiroshima
The station-connected Hotel Granvia Hiroshima is set to get a further boost from the spring 2025 opening of sister property Hotel Granvia Hiroshima South Gate above Hiroshima Station.
Meipuru-pu bus from Hiroshima Station Shinkansen Entrance (north side), alight at Hiroshima Castle (6 mins)
09:30
Hiroshima Castle
The 16th-century original was levelled by the atomic bombing, but its contemporary reconstruction drives home what a formidable fortress Hiroshima Castle once was.
à21-1 Motomachi, Naka, Hiroshima. rijo-castle.jp
Meipuru-pu bus from Hiroshima Castle bus stop, alight at Peace Memorial Park (10 mins)
11:00
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Atomic Bomb Dome
This essential museum makes the horrors experienced by Hiroshima’s A-bomb victims about as tangible as possible for present-day visitors. The iconic Atomic Bomb Dome is nearby. àHiroshima Peace Memorial Museum: 1-2 Nakajimacho, Naka, Hiroshima. hpmmuseum.jp/?lang=eng Atomic Bomb Dome: 1-10 Otemachi, Naka, Hiroshima.
Hiroshima Dentetsu No. 2 tram from Genbaku Dome-mae Station, alight at Tatemachi Station (5 mins) Walk (3 mins)
13:00 14:00 15:00 17:00
Kunimatsu
A serving of Hiroshima-style soupless dan dan noodles won’t leave you weighed down – unless you do like the locals and dunk a bowl of rice into the leftover chilli sauce.
à8-10 Hatchobori, Naka, Hiroshima / Closed Sat, Sun. kunimatsuhiroshima.com
Obscura Coffee Roasters Hondori
Speciality coffee masters Obscura’s Hondori café stands out with its earthy, African-inspired colours and mingei tableware, which is available to buy.
à3-1 Hondori, Naka, Hiroshima. instagram.com/obscuracoffeeroasters
Hiroshima Orizuru Tower
Seek out the calming and contemporary rooftop observation deck for sweeping views of the city before examining the ground-floor souvenir shop.
à1-2-1 Otemachi, Naka, Hiroshima. instagram.com/hiroshima_ orizuru_tower
Walk (4 mins)
Hiroshima Dentetsu No. 6 tram from Kamiyacho-Nishi Station to Hiroshima Station (16 mins)
Hiroshima oysters are prized for their rich taste – a property you can appreciate to your stomach’s content here. The delicacies are available both raw and cooked.
àEkie Dining 1F (inside Hiroshima Station), 1-2 Matsubaracho, Minami, Hiroshima. kanawa.co.jp/en/kanawaekie
Kanawa Ekie
Walk (5 mins)
Walk (10 mins)
Photo: Hiroshima Tourism Association
Photo: Hiroshima Tourism Association
Photo: Hiroshima Orizuru Tower
Photo: Kanawa
MIYAJIMA
09:00
JR Sanyo Line train from Hiroshima Station, alight at Miyajimaguchi Station (27 mins)
Walk (3 mins)
JR Miyajima Ferry from Miyajimaguchi pier to Miyajima (10 mins)
Omotesando Shopping Street
A bustling street lined with traditional-style shops hawking a dizzying variety of local eats and treats. Try the maple-leaf-shaped momiji manju cakes. àMiyajimacho, Hatsukaichi.
Starbucks Coffee Itsukushima Omotesando
There’s plenty of local flavour in the décor at Miyajima’s Starbucks. One artwork highlights shamoji paddles used to serve and stir rice, which were invented on the island. à459-2 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi. store.starbucks.co.jp/detail-1354
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine and its bright red torii seem to float on the water at high tide, while at low tide you can walk right up to the iconic gate. à1-1 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi. itsukushimajinja.jp/en
Café Lente
Pair the no-frills homemade curry and local beer with picture-perfect views of the Itsukushima torii, visible beyond a grove of pines. à1167-3 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi. instagram.com/cafe_lente
Ingenious displays recreating elements of Miyajima’s marine ecosystem let you peek under the water surrounding the island. à10-3 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi. miyajima-aqua.jp/englishlp
Walk (25 mins)
JR Miyajima Ferry from Miyajima to Miyajimaguchi pier (10 mins)
Ryoko no Tomo Honpo
Furikake is having a moment in the culinary world. Get your fix straight from the company that invented the umami-packed seasoning blend way back in 1904. à1-11-8 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi. instagram.com/ryokounotomo
Walk (3 mins)
JR Sanyo Line train from Miyajimaguchi Station, alight at ShinHakushima Station (25 mins)
Astram Line tram from Shin-Hakushima Station, alight at Hondori Station (4 mins)
Walk (3 mins)
Hiroshima Kagura at the Hiroshima Prefectural Citizen’s Culture Center
Demons, samurai heroes and fearsome monsters take the stage here every Wednesday night at 7pm from April to December for subtitled showings of Japan’s oldest performing art. à1-5-3 Otemachi, Naka, Hiroshima. rccbc.co.jp/event/kagura/en
Walk (10 mins)
Okonomimura Miyajima Public Aquarium
Taste Hiroshima’s soul food with a side of local banter at this rambunctious three-storey establishment that consists entirely of okonomiyaki stands.
à5-13 Shintenchi, Naka, Hiroshima. okonomimura.jp/foreign/ english.html
Walk (5 mins)
Walk (5 mins)
Photo: Hiroshima Kagura Regular Performances
YAMAGUCHI
09:00
Shin-Yamaguchi Station
TIP
Pulled by a steam locomotive, the SL Yamaguchi tourist train chugs between Shin-Yamaguchi and Tsuwano stations nearly every weekend from May.
JR Yamaguchi Line train from Shin-Yamaguchi Station, alight at Yudaonsen Station (20 min)
Walk (13 min)
09:30
The Bakers Loaf
Walk (5 mins)
Pleasant café where you can carb up with crisp and firm French toast or your pick from dozens of other freshly baked breads and pastries.
à4-2-18 Yudaonsen, Yamaguchi / Closed Mon. instagram.com/thebakers.loaf
JR Bocho Line bus from Yudaonsen-dori bus stop, alight at Shokokaikan-mae (5 mins)
Walk (5 mins)
Yamaguchi Center for Arts and Media (YCAM)
YCAM is one of Japan’s leading media art institutions, noted for its original exhibitions created by artists such as Ryuichi Sakamoto together with the centre’s crew of specialists.
à7-7 Nakazonocho, Yamaguchi / Closed Tue (Wed if Tue is a holiday). ycam.jp/en
Walk (6 mins)
JR Bocho Line bus from Shokokaikan-mae bus stop, alight at Bijutsukan-mae (5 mins)
Walk (4 mins)
13:00
Kawara Soba Yanagiya Yamaguchi
Ichinosaka River
The riverside Yanagiya sports an eyecatching tiled roof, and for good reason. Their speciality is kawara soba: teainfused noodles cooked on and eaten off a roof tile.
à2-2 Shinbaba, Yamaguchi / Closed Wed, 3rd Thu of the month. instagram.com/ yanagiya.yamaguchi
Walk (18 mins) OR Taxi (7 mins)
Mizunoue Kiln
Potter Gakuji Masui describes his practice as a balancing act between control and chance – a duality evident in his graceful tableware, fired on the grounds of a Buddhist temple.
àAt Toshunji Temple, 5-27 Mizunouecho, Yamaguchi. instagram.com/ mizunouegama
Rurikoji Temple and Kozan Park
Tranquil Zen temple and park with scenic views, a pretty pond and a National Treasure-designated pagoda (cloaked in scaffolding until spring 2026 due to repairs).
à7-1 Kozancho, Yamaguchi. inforurikoji.wixsite.com/rurikoji
Taxi (7 mins)
Coffeeboy Yamaguchi
Walk (6 mins)
The pour-overs are always on point at this urban oasis of a café, which feels contemporary despite opening more than two decades ago.
à2-2-5 Dojomonzen, Yamaguchi. coffeeboy.co.jp/shoplist/yamaguchi
JR Akiyoshi Line bus from Chugoku Denryoku yab-mae bus stop, alight at Shimoyuda (5 mins)
Walk (5 mins)
Sake to Sakana Kingyo
Watch the best of the day’s catch get cut up into sashimi or grilled on skewers while you sip local sake at this fish-focused izakaya.
à1-10 Sufucho, Yamaguchi. instagram.com/saketosakana_kingyo
Walk (6 mins)
Oyado Onn Yudaonsen
A smart take on the classic Japanese spa resort, Onn marries tatami-mat surfaces and wooden detailing with contemporary cool. Private hot-spring baths available.
à4-5-2 Yudaonsen, Yamaguchi. onn-yudaonsen.com
KITAKYUSHU
START
09:30
Kokura Station
As you leave the station, spot the Kitakyushu Monorail’s trains rolling in and out of the same structure high above you.
Kokura Castle
Get your morning pick-me-up at the central keep’s top-floor Castle Cafe, which features a rotating line-up of local indie coffeeshops.
à2-1 Jonai, Kokurakita, Kitakyushu. kokura-castle.jp
Walk (5 mins)
Nishitetsu bus 28 from Kitakyushu City Office bus stop, alight at Kokura Station Bus Center (7 mins)
Walk (5 mins)
11:00
Kitakyushu Manga Museum
Most artists spotlighted here have a local connection, including Galaxy Express 999 creator Leiji Matsumoto, who grew up in Kitakyushu.
àAru-Aru City, 2-14-5 Asano, Kokurakita, Kitakyushu / Closed Tue (Wed if Tue is a holiday). ktqmm.jp
Walk (5 mins)
Nishitetsu bus 21, 23 or 49 from Heiwa-dori bus stop, alight at Kifunemachi (13 mins)
12:30 Tanga Market
Boasting more than a century of history, Tanga Market is always bustling with grocery-shopping locals. The atmospheric arcade hides a few cosy sit-down eateries, too. à4-2-18 Uomachi, Kokurakita, Kitakyushu. tangaichiba.jp/en
Toto Museum
Study the evolution of toilets from Japan’s first ceramic flush throne to the fabled Washlet at WC world champions Toto’s majestic museum.
à2-1-1 Nakashima, Kokurakita, Kitakyushu / Closed Mon. jp.toto. com/en/knowledge/visit/museum
14:00 16:00
10:00 17:30
Any Nishitetsu bus from Kifunemachi bus stop to Kokura Station Bus Center (17 mins)
JR Kagoshima Line train from Kokura Station to Mojiko Station (13 mins)
Mojiko Retro Area
This restored and reconstructed waterside district offers a trip back in time to Moji Port’s glory days at the turn of the 20th century.
The abundant and diverse seafood procured from the waters on both ends of the Kanmon Straits sustains Kitakyushu’s reputation as one of the top sushi cities in Japan. Super-fresh local fish can be savoured at a variety of price points.
Kaito
This conveniently located Moji Port sushi stalwart offers some of the best value in town.
à3-3 Minatomachi, Moji, Kitakyushu / Closed Wed (open on holidays). kaito.ne.jp/kaitomojikou
Walk (15 mins)
Walk (15 mins)
Photo: Kokura Castle
Photo: ©Mojiko Co-creation Project Team Consortium
Photo: Kitakyushu Manga Museum
Photo: Tanga Market
Shop Setouchi
Bite into the best of the region or score a quirky memento of your trip with our Setouchi souvenir picks
Carpentry tool keyrings
Show off your fondness for woodworking with these adorable, handmade mini planes, hammers and saws. Note: they’re wildly popular and often sell out.
à¥1,000. Available at Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum, Shin-Kobe (p5). *Items cannot be ordered online or held for purchase later.
Setouchi Lemon Jelly
A dollop of this bright yellow jelly made with Onomichi’s brand-name Setouchi lemons adds zest to drinks and desserts alike.
à¥788. Available at Omiyage Kaido Ekie Hiroshima in Hiroshima Station (p10-11)
Aji Stone Disks
The rock-solid souvenir selection at Yashimaru in Takamatsu is anchored by these smiley plates illustrated by Masanao Hirayama and made from Aji Stone, a type of high-quality granite quarried nearby.
àFrom ¥11,000. Available at Yashimaru, Takamatsu (p7)
Kajitsu Kobo Setouchi Vegetable Crayons
Doodling protects the Earth – if you do it with these crayons made from local fruit and vegetable refuse. à¥2,200. Available at Omiyage Kaido in Okayama Station (p6)
Beifull gaufrettes
Gluten-free rice cracker-like cookies combining Hiroshima rice flour and seaweed salt with Setouchi lemon cream for a gently sweet, pleasingly light snack.
à¥756 (pack of 8). Available at Omiyage Kaido Ekie Hiroshima in Hiroshima Station (p10-11)
Photo: Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum
Yuyake Navel Orange Cakes
The cute retro package hides three flavours of moist cake topped with an orange slice: ‘plain’ (with sweet red bean paste), matcha, and chocolate.
à¥1,134 (pack of 3). Available at Omiyage Kaido Ekie Hiroshima in Hiroshima Station (p10-11)
Ryujin no Sato Nagishio salt
Setouchi has been a major salt producer for centuries, and the Nagishio line of traditionally made sea salt upholds that legacy in a delicious way. Two flavours are sold in stores: one for meat and one for rice balls.
à¥1,140. Available at Omiyage Kaido Ekie Hiroshima in Hiroshima Station (p10-11)
Toto Super-Mini Toilets
Toto’s tiny toilets are made at the same factory and from the same sanitary ceramic material as the Washlet masters’ full-sized thrones.
à¥1,650. Available at Toto Museum, Kitakyushu (p13)
JR Premium Select Setouchi Chu-Hi
Taste the flavours of Setouchi fruits like grapes, peaches and hassaku oranges in boozy form with this colourful line of canned vodka cocktails.
à¥214. Available at Okayama and Onomichi stations (p6, 8-9)
Choro Q Shinkansen toy trains
Train geeks of all ages will love the pullback offerings in this series, including the Sanyo Shinkansen’s N700 and the iconic Doctor Yellow test train.
àFrom ¥1,320.
Available at Shinkansen stations
All item details and prices are as of December 1 2024 and subject to change.
© TOMY
Ride the Sea Spica and see the Inland Sea from the water
Need a break from train travel? Opt for a boat trip on the Sea Spica, a sleek sightseeing cruiser travelling between the ports of Onomichi and Hiroshima. A one-way trip takes around four and a half hours, including a stopover at an island along the way, leaving you with plenty of time to take in the scenery. See the QR code for the 2025 cruise calendar and tickets.
Get golden guidance
While we’re all about providing local expertise so you can discover the best of Japan on your own, we do recognise the value of a well-informed real-life guide, too. Gold-Guide’s all-star team of English-speaking guides are on hand to take you behind the scenes in Setouchi. Check out their tours in Kobe, Hiroshima and the Kansai area at gold-guide.com
