Time Out Osaka Special Launch Issue

Osaka Update

THE KUIDAORE BUILDING’S RETURN

Get your chopsticks out – Kuidaore Taro is back. The giant mechanical clown embodying Osaka’s ‘eat until you drop’ ethos will once again be beating his drum in the heart of Dotonbori, as the beloved Kuidaore Building he’s attached to reopens after renovations this spring with an enhanced lineup of some 20 enticing eateries.

à 1-7-21 Dotonbori, Chuo. nakaza-cuida ore.com/en.

The post-Expo gamble

things Osakans are excited about right now

The Expo saunas

IT’S THE QUESTION EVERY OSAKAN is asking: once the Expo winds down in midOctober, what will happen with Yumeshima, the artificial island in Osaka Bay hosting the grand gathering? Well, a significant part of it will most likely be turned into a casino. Players including MGM Resorts and Osaka’s own Orix Corp want to start building an ‘integrated resort’ on the island before the end of the year, with the slot machines set to light up in late 2030. 1 5 4 3

WHILE HOT-SPRING BATHING is still Japan’s go-to form of wet and sweaty relaxation, Nordic sauna culture has been making massive inroads across the country in recent years. Osaka is no exception, with a steam room (plus a cold plunge, mind you) now a requisite feature of any self-respecting spa facility or boutique hotel in the city. Even Expo 2025 will have saunas, in the form of tents made from energy-efficient resin film and set up in the bayside Future Life Zone to exemplify a ‘soft and warm future society’.

The Michelin nod

OSAKA BEING ONE OF THE HOTTEST food cities in the world is hardly news to us locals, but we can’t deny it feels good having the latest edition of the august Michelin Guide trumpet that same message to gourmands across the globe. The luxury-loving tyre company’s list of the ten most exciting foodie destinations in 2025 shouts out Osaka’s ‘dynamic dining scene’ and 84 starred restaurants.

The arrival of Gundam

WHAT BETTER WAY TO SHOWCASE Japan’s futuristic innovations than exhibiting the world’s largest robot before the eyes of the world’s nations? Merch masters Bandai’s Guinness World Record-setting 18-metre-tall Gundam will be welcoming visitors to the Expo 2025 site from April 13.

Avant-garde again

SOME OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL experimental art movements of Japan’s postwar era originated in Osaka. New gallery complex Ichion Contemporary showcases the legacy of boundary-breaking collectives such as the Gutai group across six levels in a strikingly slender building near Umeda.

à 9-7 Nozakicho, Kita. 11am-6pm, closed Mon, Sun & hols. ichion-contemporary.com.

ART ALERT

Fairs to spare

ART WILL LITERALLY BE ALL AROUND in Osaka from spring to autumn this year. The sprawling Study: Osaka Kansai International Art Festival 2025 will be taking over exhibition halls and neighbourhoods across the city with an eclectic programme featuring art and artists from a whopping 158 countries, while leading contemporary art fair Art Osaka is set to showcase a star-studded lineup of galleries in June.

à osaka-kansai.art/en

à artosaka.jp

Patina Osaka

THE SINGAPORE-BASED AND LUXURYFOCUSED Capella Hotel Group’s first Japanese property is opening this spring right in the heart of historic Osaka, with Osaka Castle on one side and the site of the ancient Naniwa Palace on the other. The views of both landmarks from the 20th-floor sky lobby are sure to be spectacular. à patinahotels.com/osaka

Starchitect in the spotlight

FORMER PRO BOXER, PRITZKER PRIZE RECIPIENT and all-round boss architect Tadao Ando makes a triumphant return to his native Osaka with ‘Youth’, an extensive retrospective that illuminates Ando’s world through everything from sketches and models to a full-scale replica of the Church on the Water in Hokkaido.

à Mar 20-Jul 21 at VS. (Grand Green Osaka). vsvs.jp.

HOT HOTELS

New places to stay in the city

Four Seasons Hotel Osaka

IN BUSINESS SINCE AUGUST 2024 , the Four Seasons makes the most of its perch inside the One Dojima skyscraper, high above the Dojima and Tosabori rivers. Besides striking views of the City of Water, you can look forward to a luxurious take on the modern ryokan experience on the hotel’s conceptual Gensui floor.

à fourseasons.com/osaka

The

Osaka Station Hotel, Autograph Collection

ANOTHER 2024 NEWCOMER , this ultracentral urban oasis occupies the site of the first Osaka Station from 1874. Pledging to offer a journey across the history and culture of railways, the property encompasses 418 rooms, including a palatial 37th-floor suite. The buffet breakfast is served in a restaurant modelled on a luxury train’s dining car. à osakastation-hotel.jp/en

10 things to do at Grand Green Osaka

Feel the pulse of the city at this buzzy new destination right next to Osaka Station

UMEDA IS THE HEART AND SOUL OF OSAKA , the city’s business, shopping, culinary and transportation hub, where millions of people go to work and play every day. And right in the middle of it all lies Grand Green Osaka, a former cargo yard transformed into a multipurpose development incorporating art, culture and leisure into everyday city life. Opened in September 2024, the glistening complex offers an engaging and sustainable vision of Osaka’s future across an 11-acre urban park. The area features three luxury hotels, dozens of shops and restaurants and some spectacular architecture. Here are 10 things to check out at the hottest spot in Osaka right now.

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Meet under a magnificent roof

Known simply as the ‘big roof’, the area’s most recognisable symbol stands at the entrance to Umekita Park. Designed by Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of the Pritzker-winning architectural unit SANAA, this massive undulating steel structure caresses the Rohto Heart Square Umekita facility, a home for events ranging from concerts to conferences, as well as the experiential space Plat Umekita and the stylish Talks cafe and bar You can get a closer look at the roof’s spaceship-like surface from a network of elevated walkways above it.

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Kick back amidst lush greenery

Combining pictureperfect city views with a wealth of cosy nooks to relax in, Umekita Park right outside JR Osaka Station is the living, breathing centrepiece of Grand Green Osaka Its southern section serves as the venue for a diverse programme of gigs, performances, sports events and seasonal happenings as well as fun weekday evening and weekend classes and experiential workshops, while the northern part, set to open in spring 2027, will have a more forested feel.

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quirky artworks

While there’s plenty of retail therapy to be enjoyed at Osaka, some of the best things in the area are free – including the openair artworks that dot Umekita Park. At the edge of the greenery stands Yumemitai, sculptor Ram Katzir’s stainless-steel depiction of dreamers, while Iwate-based Scottish artist Kate Thomson and colourful cocoon sculptures by Jun Kaneko along the park’s paved walking paths.

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Work together

Boasting both a supremely convenient location and stateof-the-art facilities, Grand Green Osaka is fast emerging as one of Osaka’s most in-demand places to do business. While the South Building has plenty of traditional office space and a business lounge, in the North Building work gets done at Jam Base, an ‘innovation platform’ designed to facilitate collaboration. Centred on an airy nine-storey facility facing Umekita Park, it encompasses rental offices, conference rooms, a coworking space and much more, inviting professionals from diverse fields to interact and be inspired by each other.

Watch visions clash

Featuring an eyeglass façade conjured up by the world-renowned Tadao Ando, creative . is a symbol of the cultural kaleidoscope that is Osaka. The interior comprises four exhibition and event spaces, including a vast main studio with 15-metre-high walls, where diverse ideas across everything from futuristic technology to

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latest in immersive digital entertainment by donning an , the experience will

otherworldly flora and fauna while learning to use your

Stay in the midst of the action

Occupying floors 1 and 10 to 25 of the North Building, the premium lifestyle hotel Canopy by Hilton Osaka Umeda is the first Japanese venture under the Canopy by Hilton brand. Extending across 308 spacious rooms, the property caters especially to inquisitive travellers seeking to immerse themselves in the local culture throughout their stay. This commitment shines through in the chic, playful design, which draws heavily on conspicuous Osaka imagery – the ceiling at the entrance evokes a takoyaki pan, for instance – as well as in food and drink offerings pairing local culinary traditions with contemporary touches.

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Unwind in total tranquillity

One of the world’s most iconic luxury hotel brands finally lands in Japan with the April 2025 opening of the Waldorf Astoria Osaka. Perched high above the city in the South Building of Grand Green Osaka, the property pledges to combine the Waldorf Astoria’s legendary service and timeless elegance with a measured balance of stillness and wellness. If you’re looking to splurge on an Osaka stay – even if it’s only for one night –this is a hotel that should merit serious consideration.

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looking to explore innovative flavours at restaurants representing the pinnacle of global gastronomy or pick up some fashion that won’t fade, Grand Green Osaka has you covered. There are more than 50 shops and restaurants across the complex’s park and two main buildings, North (open now) and South (opening in March 2025), ranging from high-end boutiques and branches of Michelin-starred restaurants to shops dealing in daily essentials and casual eateries for every taste. And when you need a break from it all, retreat to the spa facility in the South Building, complete with hot-spring baths, saunas, and an infinity pool overlooking Umekita Park

Hide away high above the city

If you envision the perfect hotel as an oasis of calm not too far removed from the urban bustle, you might just fall in love with Hotel Hankyu Gran Respire Osaka. Set to open in March 2025 in the South Building, the 482-room property will occupy floors 7 to 27 of the structure. Guests staying in the rooms on floors 26 and 27 will have access to the intimate, grownups-only Club Lounge, where you can relax over self-serve coffee and cocktails, and will receive a complimentary ticket to the hot-spring spa in the same building.

Umekita Park

The city on a plate

2025 is shaping up to be Osaka’s year. The arrival of the Expo will ensure the eyes of the world are on the city and we’re more than ready for our close-up. From the neighbourhoods that are reinventing themselves to the arrival of Time Out Market, the launch of Donkey Kong Country and the reinvigorated coffee, music, arts and cocktail scenes, it’s all going off. Allow us to serve up nine reasons to get excited about the Big O

Its neighbourhoods are reinventing themselves

Things to do

Befitting a city whose Expo will serve as a laboratory for the society of the future, Osaka’s neighbourhoods are forwardthinking, adaptable and open to change. Take Nakazakicho, an unassuming district tucked behind Osaka Station which, having been spared the Second World War bombings that devastated much of the city, has kept its old-school charm intact. Until not long ago, however, it was largely abandoned and semi-derelict, but today it’s Osaka’s hipster hub, with cafés, restaurants, galleries and boutiques lining its winding lanes. Salon de Amanto, the art café that sparked Nakazakicho’s revival, turned a dilapidated 19th century building into a lively community space, and other small businesses followed suit, revitalising the neighbourhood. It’s a similar story in Kitakagaya, where artists and creatives have turned factories and warehouses into studios and galleries, bringing life to an industrial area that struggled after the decline of the local shipbuilding industry – see p31 for more on Osaka’s unique art town. Indeed, Osaka’s neighbourhoods are no stranger to reinvention – Umekita used to be largely disued railway sheds until it was transformed by the ambitious Grand Green project. Likewise, the once unfashionable Fukushima neighbourhood has become a culinary hub in recent years, while Tsuruhashi – the city’s Koreatown, the largest in the country – has benefited from increased interest in food and culture from across the Sea of Japan. On its atmospheric shopping streets there are plenty of places selling kimchi, Korean corn dogs and tteokbokki, the addictive street food of rice cakes in spicy sauce, while other retailers ride the Korean wave with K-pop items and cosmetics for sale.

Kitakagaya

Nakazakicho

Time Out Market is set to shake up eating out

Eating and drinking

Some things never change. Walk around any night of the week and you’ll see takeout takoyaki drawing huge queues, okonomiyaki pancakes being grilled in smoky diners and signs flagging the deadly sin of double-dipping at popular kushikatsu joints. Osaka has long been the nation’s kitchen and that old local adage about eating yourself bankrupt –– remains apt, although it does rather depend on your appetite, not to mention your financial situation.

Osaka’s culinary culture is diverse, going far beyond street eats, but what it has in common is a suspicion of formality, a rejection of the austere, buttoned-up restaurants found elsewhere. However, this preference for social, affordable and occasionally inelegant dining does not mean that Osakans have unrefined palates – just look at all those Michelin stars the city’s restaurants have garnered in recent years.

A local love of new ideas, bold flavours and culinary experimentation – and a determined shunning of airs and graces – makes Osaka the perfect location for a Time Out Market, where the most exciting food in the city can be enjoyed in a welcoming space, including as a takeaway enjoyed in the park upstairs. For elevated takes on Osaka classics you can try newwave kushikatsu at Kushiage001 by Kushiage010, and fresh takes on okonomiyaki and takoyaki at Koala Shokudo – for a full line-up turn to p28.

Osaka

Kushiage 010

Kushiage 010

The sports scene is kicking off

Things to do

Osaka is a city that lives and breathes sport, with a passionate fan base ready to cheer on everything from baseball to sumo and even high-speed boat racing.

‘It’s an adrenaline rush, blending strategy with sheer speed’

Baseball is king, and the Hanshin Tigers, based at Koshien Stadium, are at the heart of it. Known for their fiercely loyal (and long-suffering) fans, the Tigers finally broke their 38-year  Japan Series drought by winning the biggest prize in Japanese baseball in 2023. The team they beat in the season ending Climax Series was Osakan rivals the Orix Buffaloes, who had beaten the Tigers to claim the 2022 title. The city hopes that the two will meet again in 2025’s end of season showpiece.

Football fans rally behind Gamba Osaka and Cerezo Osaka in the J.League. Gamba, historically one of Japan’s top clubs, finished fourth in 2024 while Cerezo, led by their vibrant pink kits, came in tenth.

For something more traditional, sumo fans pack the Edion Arena every March for the Grand Sumo Tournament, where Osaka’s lively crowds create an electric atmosphere. Fans of a more flamboyant form of wrestling, meanwhile, flock to Osaka-Jo Hall and Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium for bouts of puroresu, a local take on America’s WWE that features males and female wrestlers from across the country and is guaranteed to raise a smile.

And then there’s kyotei – speedboat racing. This fast-paced sport sees daredevil racers skim across the water at venues like Boat Race Suminoe, a purposebuilt artificial lake at the heart of the city. It’s an adrenaline rush, blending strategy with sheer speed.

A puroresu bout

Boat Race Suminoe

Its mixologists are magic

Eating and drinking

Tipplers are spoilt for choice in Osaka, where the options for sipping an exquisite cocktail are always growing, and run from the quirky to the sophisticated.

At the wonderful Bible Club, hidden away down a secret staircase in Chuo, they’ve taken the prohibitionera theming extremely seriously, with antique glasses, furniture and decorations, even going so far as to source a US flag with 48 stars. This low-lit drinking den knocks up sensational mixes including the Barn Burner, which comes with a wedge of burnt hay to aerate the bottom of the glass and a satisfying smack of winter wheat bourbon. Another favourite is the B’isco sour, which incorporates the taste of Bisco biscuits, a local favourite manufactured by Glico, of the famous running man advert. An international spread of guests listen to jaunty 1920s music and nibble cubes of almond cake between swigs of their cocktail, often settling in for the night.

Those who move on elsewhere are well advised to turn their steps towards Bar Nayuta, just a short saunter away. Even more challenging to locate, up several flights of stairs in an otherwise anonymous block, Nayuta repays the effort to visit many times over. This pocket-sized venue is lit by candles and dominated by a gleaming, well-stocked bar staffed by super knowledgeable mixologists. There are no menus here – the charming barkeep will give you a brief interview about your flavour preferences before creating a completely new cocktail designed just for you. Equally mysterious, dinky and brilliant is Craftroom, a tenseater in Umeda that’s been named one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars, the first in the city to bag the award, and has made a name for its updates on classic cocktails.

If you prefer your drinkeries clearly signposted and spacious, however, head straight for the nonecooler Living Room at the W Hotel. This laidback space is a haven of calm from the busy streets below: order yourself an exotic alcoholic mix (one option includes honey from local urban bees) and kick back to the mellow sounds of the inhouse DJ: bliss.

The gigs are getting greater

Arts and culture

Things to do

Raw, unpretentious and unapologetically rough round the edges, Osaka’s music scene is a reflection of the city’s character – and all the better for it. There are many live houses (the Japanese term for a small live music club) to choose from. America-mura neighbours Livehouse Pangea and Livehouse Bronze are great for discovering up-and-coming rock and indie bands, while nearby Hokage specialises in the punkier side of things. Jazz fans will love Club 845 in Namba while at Dotonbori’s Club Under the psy-trance and techno begins late and keeps going till the trains start up again.

There’s also Namba Bears, a hole-in-the-wall live house which has spent the past 39 years championing the kind of nonconformist sounds that could only come from Osaka. Set up by Seiichi Yamamoto, formerly of Osaka noise legends Boredoms, Bears is DIY through and through. The entry fees are low, the drinking policy is BYOB (there’s a cooler box filled with Asahi if you arrive empty-handed) and the acoustics are so deafeningly loud that earplugs are an indispensable item. For unmissable club nights, meanwhile, you’ll want to hit up Joule, a triple-storied space with a monster dancefloor and roof terrace, featuring everything from house to hip-hop.

‘Joule is a triplestoried space with a monster dancefloor and roof terrace’

Joule

Namba Bears

The coffee options are hotter than ever

Eating and drinking

Osaka’s caffeine scene has come on leaps and bounds in recent times. Java junkies will adore LiLo Coffee Roasters, where the chooseyour-own-adventure menu lets you select your beans, method (V60, espresso, siphon or aeropress) and whether you’d like it hot or iced –the baristas, working with a veritable science lab of brewing equipment, are happy to offer suggestions. While you can’t go wrong with the original branch of Lilo, we’re fond of its Kissa,

a short walk away, which blends specialty coffee with the ambience of a mid-20th century kissaten (traditional café). With its signage, walls, chairs and counter all jet black, Honmachi hole-in-the-wall Notequal by Dripclassic is unsurprisingly big on darker blends, while the Brooklyn Roasting Company, with three branches in the city, is another fine option for those who favour more intense brews; at their Kitahama branch the flawless espresso drinks can be savoured on a terrace overlooking the Tosabori River. And then there’s Mel – short for Melbourne, where owner Masahiko Fumimoto fell in love with coffee – a standing roomonly space which specialises in drip coffee from lighter roasts, although there’s a La Marzocco espresso machine on hand for fans of flat whites. It’s so good, in fact, that it’s been selected for the new Time Out Market Osaka (see p28).

LiLo Coffee Roasters

Donkey Kong now calls the place home

Things to do

With its silver-screen themed rides and attractions, Universal Studios Japan has been thrilling kids and adults since 2001. But things stepped up a notch with the opening of Donkey Kong Country at the tail end of 2024. An addition to the already ace Super Nintendo World, the new zone includes games, rides, food kiosks dishing out DK-themed snacks and Donkey Kong’s house, where you can meet the titular gorilla in person.

The standout attraction is Mine Cart Madness, a fast-paced rollercoaster that recreates the railjumping action of the games, launching riders from barrels and sending them hurtling over broken tracks. You really do feel like your cart is leaving the safety of the rail, which will have you laughing or screaming, depending on your disposition.

Donkey Kong Country

Universal Studios Japan

Be a pilgrim

Interested in anime and manga culture? Here’s an engaging way to experience it in Japan – and at Expo 2025

For fans of Japanese comics and animated shows, travelling to or within Japan carries with it special excitement – not least due to the chance of coming across real-life locations depicted in your favourite manga or anime. The last decade or so has seen an increase in comics, films and TV shows set in real places (many with near-photorealistic backgrounds), and aficionados have made it a hobby – nay, a religion – to seek out these locations in journeys that’ve become known as ‘anime pilgrimages’.

For example, the city of Kumano in southern Mie prefecture, famed for its beaches and the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, is best known among otaku as the setting for 2013 anime TV series Nagi-Asu: A Lull in the Sea. Fans of the story –which follows the academic life and amorous tribulations of four teens from the sea who have to learn to live on dry land after the closing of their underwater middle school – will be able to spot familiar locations from Nagi-Asu through the city, including bridges, piers, shrines and shops.

Other fans prefer to seek out the birthplace of, or other location

associated with, their favourite manga artist or animator.

For instance, the city of Hita in Kyushu’s Oita prefecture makes the most of being the hometown of Hajime Isayama, creator of the world-conquering Attack on Titan manga series.

The Attack on Titan in Hita Museum displays Isayama’s original drawings and belongings such as a writing desk, while statues of characters appearing in Attack on Titan dot the streets.

Plan your journey…

…at the Anime Manga Tourism Festival, a part of Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan

What is it?

A celebration bringing together destinations from all over Japan noted for their connections to popular works of manga or anime, the Anime Manga Tourism Festival serves as an exciting starting point for discovering the country through pop culture.

At the festival, cities, towns and villages that have inspired famous comic artists and animators will be showcasing themselves at ‘hometown booths’. Visitors will also be able to enjoy manga- and anime-related exhibitions, catch screenings of popular titles, and discover new manga at the Comics Library. All this will be accompanied by a programme of live performances that’s set to include everything from cosplay shows to talks featuring guest stars from across the otaku universe.

Who will be there?

Exhibitors in the ‘hometown booths’ zone are set to include Kumano and Hita, as well as Tottori prefecture, birthplace of luminaries from Gosho Aoyama (Detective Conan) to Shigeru Mizuki (GeGeGe no Kitaro); the city of Goto, Nagasaki, home to Nizo Yamamoto, art director on Studio Ghibli classics including Princess Mononoke; the Kitakyushu Manga Museum, representing the hometown of Galaxy Express 999 creator Leiji Matsumoto; and the Chibi Maruko-chan Land museum in Shizuoka.

When and where is it?

April 30 to May 2 (11am-5pm) at the Expo Exhibition Centre on Yumeshima, Osaka. n

à

Nagi-Asu: A Lull in the Sea

An artist’s impression of the Anime Manga Tourism Festival Attack on Titan in Hita Museum

The Expo is coming back...

Arts and culture

Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan is the biggest thing to come to the city since, well, the previous Expo. Orchard answers your burning questions about the event.

I hear an Expo is coming to Osaka. What’s that all about?

It’s a global event that brings together the countries of the world to showcase some of their most exciting innovations and technology in custom-made pavilions for up to six months at a time.

Is it a new thing?

Nope, sometimes called World’s Fairs, they’ve been taking place since 1851, and they’ve launched some of the most exciting innovations of their time, from Heinz tomato ketchup to hydrogen-powered cars, from ice cream cones to electric plugs and from telephones to touchscreen computers.

Has Osaka played host before?

It certainly has! It held the mega event in 1970 and it was a huge success, drawing in the biggest audience for any Expo in the 20th century. You can still visit the site, which has been turned into a commemorative park, known for its thousands of cherry blossom trees and the iconic 70-metre-tall Tower of the Sun which has stood proudly for 55 years since Expo ’70. Cutting-edge technology

including mobile phones and IMAX cinemas were introduced to the world at the event.

Isn’t it unusual to get an Expo twice?

It is – Osaka’s the only Japanese city to have done so. It’s a big feather in its cap. And it’s drawing a lot of interest, with 161 countries and regions attending alongside nine international organisations.

So what can we expect from the 2025 version?

The theme is ‘Designing Future Society for Our Lives’, with three sub-themes: ‘Saving Lives’, ‘Empowering Lives’ and ‘Connecting Lives’ which will be highlighted through the exhibitions and events. The starchitect Sou Fujimoto was charged with the design and has done a spectacular job, even creating a vast new roof structure 20 metres high and two kilometres long that visitors can walk around, taking in amazing views of the bay. All this plus Myaku-Myakus as far as the eye

What’s a Myaku-Myaku?

It’s the mascot of Expo 2025, a water-like creation dreamt up by designer Kohei Yamashita. As a nod to Osaka’s status as the city of water, MyakuMyaku can transform to take on many different forms, just like water. The name also alludes to passing on the flame

I’m in! How do I attend?

The Expo will run from April 13 to October 13 2025, on Yumeshima, a manmade island in Osaka Bay.

à For further details, including how to get tickets – advance one-day admission starts from as little as ¥4,000 – head to tinyurl.com/TOTosakaexpo

It has a big year ahead

Arts and culture

The Expo isn’t the only event in town. Here are the cultural highlights of the coming months.

Gundam Next Future

Final Exhibition

WHEN: April 1-14

WHERE: Grand Front Osaka Robo icon Gundam will be all over Osaka this spring as the popular character celebrates its 45th birthday. Having towered over the city of Yokohama for almost four years, an 18-metre-tall model of the Bandai bot is moving to Osaka and will be unveiled at the Expo site in April. During its stay in Yokohama the figure bagged a Guinness World Record as the world’s largest mobile humanoid robot, but organisers have confirmed that it will be remaining stationary during his stay in Osaka. Because you can never get enough Gundam, a separate event will be running from April 1-14. ‘Gundam Next Future Final Exhibition’ will feature props, artworks and the debut of the anime Mobile Suit Gundam GQuuuuuuX

à More info: bandainamco.co.jp

Study: Osaka Kansai

International Art Festival

WHEN: April 13-October 13

WHERE: Various venues

This ambitious art festival aims to transform the city into one large gallery with exhibitions, fairs and installations held across town. Among the highlights will be a new exhibit at Osaka Culturarium Tempozan exploring the theme of ‘What is a human being?’ through works by artists such as George Segal, Patricia Piccinini, Mel Ramos and Ron Mueck. Elsewhere a community-led project will turn daily life in Nishinari into an immersive art experience and a major Japan-Korea art fair will be held at the Osaka International Convention Centre from June 21-23. With everything from giant installations at JR stations and digital art projected onto buildings, this sprawling festival is set to be literally unmissable.

à More info: osaka-kansai.art

The National Treasures of Japan Exhibition

WHEN: April 26-June 15

WHERE: Museum of Fine Arts

To celebrate both the reopening of the Osaka Municipal Museum of Fine Arts after a two-year-long facelift and the Osaka-Kansai Expo, the city is hosting a truly unmissable exhibition. The National Treasures of Japan Exhibition will bring together around 130 of Japan’s most revered cultural artifacts – all government designated National Treasures –making it the largest showcase of its kind ever held in Osaka. Expect a dazzling display of historic craftsmanship, with special attention given to treasures linked to Osaka itself. Whether you’re an art aficionado or a history buff, this is your chance to get up close with pieces that rarely leave their storied homes including samurai swords, antique furniture and masterpieces by Kano Eitoku and Ogata Korin.

à More info: osaka-art-museum.jp

Osaka Comic Con 2025

WHEN: May 2-4

WHERE: Intex Osaka

Get your wigs and spandex ready, the biggest pop culture event in Japan is back! Comic Con 2025 will fill the Intex Osaka with can’tmiss panels, celebrity signing sessions and all the cosplay you could ever want. The guest list is as closely guarded as a superhero’s alter-ego, but the calibre of stars who have appeared in recent years – Jason Momoa! Tom Hiddleston! Millie Bobby Brown! – means expectations are high.

à More info: osakacomiccon.jp

Summer Sonic

WHEN: August 16-17

WHERE: Expo ’70 Commemorative Park

What this music festival lacks in terms of a picturesque setting, it more than makes up for in convenience. While other festivals in Japan boast views of rolling hills or stunning lakes, Summer Sonic

has easy access from the city, an abundance of clean toilets and an invariably cracking line-up – and sometimes that’s all you need. The 2025 line-up is being kept under wraps, but headliners over the years have include Blur, Kendrick Lamar and Beyoncé .

à More info: summersonic.com

Halloween Horror

WHEN: September-November

WHERE: Universal Studios Japan

USJ’s Halloween Horror events are the stuff of legend. For over a month the entire theme park is given over to the joys of halloween. There are family-friendly events in the daytime with scarier experiences after dark. Previous highlights have included a Chuckythemed haunted house, a circus of performing zombies and horror mazes populated with members of the Universal monster family. In 2024 the festival included an allnighter and nocturnal fear fans are hoping they do the same this year.

à More info: usj.co.jp n

Gundam

Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts

Beyoncé performing at Summer Sonic

Study: Osaka Kansai International Art Festival

Comic Con

Halloween Horror Nights

“Osaka’s food reflects its rebel spirit”

MATT GOULDING’S GUIDE TO WHAT TO EAT IN THE CITY

In association with

Matt Goulding’s Osaka

The globetrotting food journalist and freshly appointed culinary ambassador on what makes Osaka one of the world’s most delectable cities

OVER THE COURSE OF A TWO-DECADE JOURNALISTIC CAREER , Matt Goulding has literally eaten his way around the globe. He’s delved deep into culinary cultures on five continents by way of three books, countless articles and several award-winning documentaries, most recently ‘Omnivore’, a visual and storytelling tour de force in which each episode focuses on a single ingredient. Japan is one of the ‘Rice, Noodle, Fish’ author’s favourite food countries, and no place on these shores makes Goulding tick quite like Osaka – the city that coined the word kuidaore, or ‘eating yourself broke’. We caught up with Goulding, who in 2024 was appointed culinary ambassador for Osaka prefecture, to get his picks of essential things to eat and experience in Japan’s gourmet capital.

What makes Osaka a great food city?

There’s delicious food everywhere in Japan, but Osaka stands out because it feels almost like a different culture. People are really open, there are a lot of conversations happening in restaurants, and you make a new friend every time you go have a meal. Just last night I went into a restaurant – a classic Osaka place, 12 people around a counter – and on the way out we were exchanging phone numbers and making plans for the future.

In a lot of ways, it reminds me of Spain, where I live. There’s this idea of a movable feast; you don’t just go have one meal for three hours, but you have a few bites in one place, then maybe go have some horumon (grilled offal), and then go to a teppanyaki place, kind of building up energy over time. Also, the food reflects the city’s rebel spirit. People in Osaka aren’t afraid to stand out a bit and have their voices heard, push back against conformities, and that’s true in the food space too. It’s cool to see that freedom in cooking.

What are some of your favourite culinary experiences in Osaka?

One place that comes to mind is Koala Shokudo. Koala-san is kind of an institution here. He has a teppan and does classic Osaka eats, but also dishes like cream of blue cheese over a big wedge of cabbage cooked for 25 minutes over the teppan so it’s almost melting. He’s a surfer and a super mellow, very low key guy. The whole vibe is just right.

Another really special place is Tonkatsu Koshiro, run by Yuji Kawabata, who owns a number of izakaya around the Namba area. He’s long been a fixture in the restaurant world, and a year ago he opened up this tonkatsu counter. It’s omakase style: you have 10 or 12 servings with different cuts of pork, different expressions of the idea of breaded and fried pork. The food is very serious, but the vibes aren’t. Ultimately that’s how people like to eat, right?

“Have an improvised night of eating and drinking that unfolds and takes you in certain directions. That’s the magic of Osaka”

What would you recommend for a first-time visitor?

Everybody who comes here should try to have a kappo experience. Counter-style cooking has become so common around the world, with the idea that you get to see everything cooked, you have a seasonal, changing menu, and the dishes are passed across the counter to you. But all that really started here – its origins are in Osaka. Kappo is Osaka’s version of a kaiseki meal; seasonal ingredients, an open kitchen and a counter, but a little more relaxed. Don’t get me wrong – there are some very formal kappo places – but plenty more accessible options, where you can have a great meal and great sake for ¥8,000 or so.

wouldn’t normally gravitate towards taste delicious in that environment. Osakans get excited when they see an outsider coming in and taking to that. This has happened to me so many times. They’ll be like, ‘You have try this cut here,’ and soon they’ll be grilling it for you.

You also have to cover the quintessential Osaka cuisine, so you do want to sit down to have an okonomiyaki experience and a takoyaki street experience. But you’ll want to walk a few blocks from the chaos of Dotonbori – that way you’ll find similar but higher quality food and places packed with locals. The general approach, again, is that of a movable feast. You’ll want to hit two or three places, have an improvised night of eating and drinking that unfolds and takes you in certain directions. That’s the magic of Osaka.

What do you see in Osaka’s future? Change has been precipitous over the past few years, and the city is becoming more user friendly. Japan in general is good at taking advantage of opportunities, and [this year’s] World Expo is an opportunity Osaka can turn into an expression of its best urban self. The government is leading the charge, but I see all these local businesses tapping into that same energy. This is going to be an incredible year for the city, and I know Osaka will be one of the best destinations in the world for 2025.

Osaka Food Lab

Another one is horumon. Sure, not every visitor comes into Osaka thinking like, ‘Hey, I wanna eat some grilled off-cuts of meat.’ But horumon is embedded deep in the culture, where the idea of letting nothing go to waste is really important. As you cook your own food over a charcoal grill, you’ll find that things you

We sat down with Matt Goulding among the containers and crates that comprise Osaka Food Lab, an experimental space underneath the Hankyu railway tracks next to Nakatsu Station. Aiming to provide an avenue for up-and-coming food professionals to try out new concepts and flavours, the Lab hosts a diverse programme of pop-ups, markets and other tasty events. ‘Osaka Food Lab, where people get together to propose and exchange new ideas and cultivate culture, embodies the fact that food is about more than just food,’ Goulding says. à osakafoodlab.com/english

Sushi Sawamura

JOYS OF OMAKASE

– anticipating what seasonal seafood delicacies you might be served while marvelling at the choreographed action in the open kitchen – among contemporary, calming hues of light wood. An array of the freshest ingredients are brought in from

Grand cuisine

Eat your way around Grand Green Osaka, a culinary destination for every occasion

OPENED IN SEPTEMBER 2024 in the heart of ever-buzzy Umeda, Grand Green Osaka counts among the city’s hottest new destinations for art, culture, urban relaxation and – crucially – great eats. Across its two main buildings, North and South, as well as the soothing Umekita Park, the multipurpose complex is home to dozens of food and drink purveyors, from a cool parkside café to intimate restaurants with Michelin pedigree. Here are eleven tasty spots to put on your radar.

Wabi

MARRYING PREMIUM WAGYU SUCH AS KOBE AND OMI BEEF with the freshest local ingredients, Wabi’s ‘wagyu kaiseki’ – a meaty take on the ultra-seasonal style of cooking considered the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine – makes for a distillation of the country’s rich culinary culture. Each luxurious meal is finished off with a cup of matcha prepared fresh right in front of you.

à South Building – opening March 21 2025

offshoot staffed by kimono-clad servers. You’ll be able to pair healthy, feather-light morsels highlighting traditional Kyoto ingredients such as heirloom vegetables and freshwater fish from Lake Biwa with fine wine and sake, including the exquisite Zenri, a rarity served only at a dozen restaurants in all of Japan.

à South Building – opening March 21 2025

you up nicely for a leisurely day in Umekita Park. Bring your carefully crafted latte to a seat by the picture windows and gaze out at the greenery, or fill up a picnic basket with sandwiches and salads crafted out of fresh, organic, farm-to-table ingredients and find a spot under the sun. Delicious vegan options are available too.

à Umekita Park – open now

Gokan Parloir

JAPAN DOES FRUIT LIKE NOWHERE ELSE , and at venerated Kitahama pâtisserie Gokan’s new outpost you can sample the lushest, shiniest and sweetest domestic strawberries, oranges, melons, mangoes and peaches as part of a jaw-droppingly beautiful line-up of tarts and parfaits.

à South Building – opening March 21 2025

Tully’s Coffee & Yurindo

A CAFÉ, BOOKSTORE AND ART WORKSHOP with attitude, this triple treat of a hangout aims to fuel your creativity with both inspiration and caffeine. Most of the tomes on the shelves are in Japanese, but there’s plenty of fun stationery and knickknacks to peruse and a diverse line-up of artsy events to check out. The light-filled atrium next to the shop provides a relaxing place to meet friends, chat and socialise.

à North Building – open now

Marufuku The Coffee Parlour A THROWBACK TO SIMPLER AND SMOKIER DAYS , Marufuku has been serving up strong

Sushi Sawamura

Kyoto Gion Tempura Endo

Talks Café & Bar

that does something really different with the iconic dish can be a challenge. the bill: this shop lets you cook your octopus dumplings yourself, on a purpose-made griddle mounted into your table. (Don’t worry: the staff will show you how.) On your way out, stop to check out the selection of cute takoyaki T-shirts.

à North Building – open now

Grand Chefs’ Valley to highlight the most eminent aspects of Japanese cuisine and Osakan culinary culture without restricting reservations to insiders. Operating next to restaurants presented by some of the region’s most in-demand chefs will be a ‘secret’ pop-up set to welcome culinary celebrities such as the Insta-famous

“The mixture of restaurants, bars, and cafés spread out across Grand Green Osaka contains a lot of pleasant surprises, from Craft Beer Base Leaf, where they have more than a dozen beers on tap brewed right there in Umekita, to Boo boo boo, where you can stock up on musubi and natural wine for an impromptu picnic right outside in the park. I particularly love the collection of highly specialised food options. Between this special mix and the plans for Time Out Market, it’s obvious that the forces behind Grand Green Osaka are working hard to ensure this urban space has a strong Osakan identity.” —Matt Goulding

Takonotetsu

Craft Beer Base Leaf

Grand Chef’s Valley

Eat, drink, shop

The best places to refuel in Umeda, Osaka’s shopping paradise

UMEDA IS WHERE OSAKANS

GO TO INDULGE in some serious retail therapy – the sprawling underground malls, massive department stores and countless specialist outlets combining to attract hundreds of thousands of shoppers every single day. And given the fact that all those people need to be fed, too, it’s no surprise that the area has a veritable glut of food courts and restaurant complexes offering a kaleidoscope of flavours across all price points. Here we’ve rounded up the best of the bunch.

Hankyu Sanbangai

For a back-alley atmosphere: Hankyu Kappa Yokocho

WALKING NORTH UNDERNEATH THE TRAIN TRACKS from Hankyu Osaka-Umeda Station will eventually bring you face to face with one of the most recognisable creatures from Japanese folklore. An old-timey likeness of the green, turtle-like but upright-standing kappa, a mischievous river sprite known for subsisting mostly on cucumber, marks the entrance to bar and restaurant arcade Hankyu Kappa Yokocho.

For every dish in the book: Hankyu Sanbangai

UNLESS YOU’RE ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE who have a hard time deciding what to have for lunch, the restaurant areas in this labyrinthine facility underneath the Hankyu Osaka-Umeda railway station will feel like coming across a cave full of jewels and gold. Across its two interconnected buildings, Hankyu Sanbangai boasts around 120 restaurants, cafés and food shops, with casual eateries and bakeries especially well represented.

For TikTok-ready treats and takoyaki: Hep Five

IT’S GOT A ROOFTOP FERRIS WHEEL , a loud red-and-white colour scheme, masses of even louder teenagers shuffling in, out and about, and a pair of giant whales hanging from the atrium ceiling. So you won’t be surprised to hear that this fashion-forward mall dedicated to street styles and pop culture doesn’t dial things down when it comes to food either.

Tamlo, Hep Five’s seventh-floor restaurant and café zone, deals nearly exclusively in photogenic eats, from omelette-topped spaghetti at Cheese and Honey to pastelcoloured sweets at shops such as Korean Kitchen K-Lovers and area between the eateries is decked out in grey with ample white-tile surfaces and intense lighting that’ll almost ensure your food shots are influencer-grade. For a more typically Osakan experience, check out Takoyaki Market on the ground floor, where five shops specialising in the city’s famous octopus balls vie for supremacy.

umeda-sc.jp/en/hep-five

Luckily, the culinary offerings at this halfcentury-old spot are significantly more varied than the moniker might suggest, with the patinated walls hiding around two dozen snug eateries and watering holes. The prices feel like reminders of a bygone age, too: a bowl of authentic Osaka udon can be had for as low as ¥350, while ¥1,000 and change will get you a beer and a handful of yakitori skewers or a hearty serving of oden stew at most of the oldschool izakaya.

kappa.hankyu.co.jp

If you aren’t counting calories, make a beeline for the Umeda Food Hall basement floor of the North Area, where you’ll find 18 restaurants dealing mostly in soul-soothingly filling dishes. You have your obligatory ramen, udon, okonomiyaki and curry, but also bibimbap, Sendai-style beef tongue, grilled xiaolongbao dumplings, and pork cutlets lathered in miso sauce, a moreish Nagoya favourite.

umeda-sc.jp/en/hankyu-sanbangai

For cosmopolitan class: Chayamachi Arco

AT THE END OF A LONG DAY OF SHOPPING , rejuvenate yourself with an indulgent dinner at one of the seven restaurants that make up this sophisticated culinary cluster under the Hankyu railway tracks. Some of the restaurants employ dark brick-and-wood surfaces and low lighting to bring about an intimate atmosphere, while others build on the urban bustle of the street beyond the windows.

Mediterranean flavours are represented expertly by Gastroteka Ugari, where you can wash down pintxos and other Basque favourites with wine from a tightly curated selection of Spanish reds, and Torero Takeuchi, an Italian restaurant run by a Michelin-listed chef and specialising in black beef from the Osaka area. There’s more steak and wine on offer at CarneSio , while Rosokuya serves up spicy noodles, Kushiage Kitchen Dan entices with deepfried kushiage skewers, and Sushi to Sake Chayamachi Marry does – you guessed it – sushi and sake. arco.hankyu.co.jp

Hep Five

Chayamachi Arco

Hankyu Kappa Yokocho

For fancy gifts:

Hankyu Department Store Umeda Main Store

AN OSAKA INSTITUTION WITH A HISTORY DATING BACK TO 1929 , the Hankyu Department Store Umeda Main Store offers 15 floors of retail therapy – including particularly well-stocked fashion and beauty sections – all directly connected to OsakaUmeda Station. Befitting of perhaps the grandest shopping sanctuary of them all in this world-class food city, the culinary choices at Hankyu are extensive. Floors 12 and 13 house some 25 upscale restaurants, with sushi, unagi and tempura joints sharing the space with Chinese, Korean and Italian options.

For breathtaking bentos: Hanshin Department Store

Umeda Main Store

Things get more aromatic down in the hallowed basement food hall, where stalls serving Osaka’s famous kushikatsu (skewered and deep-fried meat, veg and everything in between) rub shoulders with polished purveyors of edible gifts like Isshindo, masters of fruit-filled mochi confections (daifuku); Tsujirihei Honten, who make magic (and cakes) with matcha; and cheesecake shop Gramercy New York, which puts an Osakan spin on the timeless NYC dessert. website.hankyu-dept.co.jp/fl/english/honten

OSAKA HAS BEEN THE MERCANTILE CAPITAL of Japan for centuries, and no retail establishment embodies this history better than the expansive, bustling and folksy Hanshin department store. Its twostorey basement food hall, or depachika, is a particular draw: you could start drinking from noon in the Hanshin Bar Alley on the B2 floor, grab an essentially Osakan lunch for pocket change at the ‘snack park’ one storey above, or finish all your souvenir shopping across the booze emporium that is Liquor World and the photogenic shelves of Oyatsu Terrace, a hub for sugary gifts. But you’d be remiss to leave before perusing the majestic bento section, where endless rows of vividly coloured packed meals are displayed like artworks in a gallery. hanshin-dept.jp/hshonten/english

what makes the area so special is that right next to these you’ll find tiny, lively, deeply satisfying establishments that cry out for your patronage: a six-seat whisky bar, a thrumming kushiage spot, an izakaya with owners that make you feel like family. Umeda can be the most polished part of Osaka at the same time as being a place where locals really lean into the postwork tradition of eating and cavorting with your coworkers.” —Matt Goulding

Hanshin Department Store Umeda Main Store

Hankyu Department Store Umeda Main Store

Welcome to Umeda

Your

area map

1 4 3 2 Umekita Park

Arco

Hankyu Department Store Umeda Main Store

Department Store Umeda Main Store

The four corners of the neighbourhood

1 Fukushima

Known for its vibrant nightlife and brilliantly revitalised postwar-era shopping street – which, by the way, hosts a monthly fortune-telling festival –Fukushima rewards foodies with a plethora of essentially Osakan restaurants, including some with Michelin pedigree.

2 Osaka Ekimae Building area

Four interconnected office blocks built in the 1970s and early ’80s, the Osaka Ekimae buildings hide a sprawling basement level that’s a treasure trove of tiny bars and hole-in-the-wall eateries specialising in booze-compatible nibbles.

Nakazakicho

3

Nakazakicho is only a stone’s throw to the west of Umeda but has a completely different vibe. The artsy, laid-back neighbourhood boasts a plentiful selection of crafts shops, vintage stores and cool cafés.

4

Nakatsu and Toyosaki

Quiet residential areas between Umeda and the Yodo River, Nakatsu and adjacent Toyosaki are ideal for a leisurely stroll. Spot centuries-old shrines and temples amidst the apartment buildings and explore the myriad little eateries, cafés and bakeries.

Eating & Drinking Market research

Your guide on what to eat in Time Out Market Osaka – the new food and cultural space serving up the best of the city under one roof

IF YOU’VE VISITED LISBON, BARCELONA, NEW YORK OR DUBAI , chances are you’ve come across a Time Out Market. These buzzing spaces are one-stop shops where you can get a taste of the city’s greatest restaurants, bars, culture and entertainment. More than a decade after the first Time Out Market opened in Lisbon back in 2014, East Asia is finally set to join the club with the opening of Time Out Market Osaka on March 21. This new cultural and culinary hub will be part of the Grand Green Osaka

AYAMUYA IS THE FIRST restaurant in Osaka to receive a Michelin star for its yakitori, or grilled chicken skewers. Now you’ll be able to get a taste of this award-worthy fare at Time Out Market, where the restaurant will be serving up familiar favourites such as fried chicken and chicken cutlet sandwiches.

Critters Burger

CRITTERS BURGER STARTED OUT as a humble food truck back in 2008 and has since grown into one of Osaka’s most-loved burger joints. Founded by chef Kenjiro Kurita, Critters cooks up chunky wagyu beef patties and serves them in homemade buns baked with Hokkaido wheat and natural yeast.

Gihan Siumei

DIG INTO AUTHENTIC HONG KONG-STYLE kettle-roasted meat at this eatery run by Yoshiyuki Wei, the chef-owner of acclaimed Chinese restaurant Ichino Funairi in Kyoto. Cooked in a purpose-built oven, the meats served at Gihan Siumei include crispy pork, roast duck and char siu pork. There are also a range of dim sum options available.

Gion Tokuya

WHILE JAPAN’S SAVOURY DELIGHTS have conquered world cuisine, its sweet treats remain relatively under the radar. Gion Tokuya may be about to change all that. The original branch opened in Kyoto, reviving the city with wagashi – dainty, traditional Japanese sweets made to accompany tea – and kakigori, mountains of shaved ice with toppings such as tea or azuki beans.

Ayamuya

Critters Burger

Gion Tokuya

Julian Sucré Acid

JULIAN SUCRÉ ACID IS A MASH-UP three popular Osaka sweets purveyors that have come together to create ice cream just for Time Out Market. Masuhiro Yokota, owner of Julian Ice Cream, has teamed up with Osaka’s leading bakery Le Sucre Coeur and pâtisserie Acid Racine for this unique concept. One must-try is described as the ‘modern take on a popular Japanese coffee shop dessert’, featuring pie crust with soft serve ice cream and sweet sauces.

Kankokushokudo Iru

BRINGING A TASTE OF KOREA to the city since 1979, Kankokushokudo Iru is an institution with recipes by its founder Pa Sam-soon carefully passed down through the generations. Its ginseng chicken soup is the stuff of legend.

SOMETHING TO DRINK?

Bar 1

Beer and cocktails are the focus at this bar, which will have brews from all four of Japan’s major beer companies – Asahi, Sapporo, Kirin and Suntory. It will also offer a variety of cocktails, including originals and seasonal mixes, along with a selection of wines by the glass and regional sake.

Bar 2

Mel Coffee Roasters

Inspired by Australia’s coffee culture (the Mel is short for Melbourne), Masahiko Fumimoto’s coffee shop has been caffeinating Shinmachi since 2012. Now Time Out Market-goers can enjoy the fruits of the team’s obsessive eye for detail.

Eating & Drinking

Kitaro Sushi

KITARO SUSHI SPECIALISES in sharikoma, a unique type of sushi characterised by its small balls of vinegared rice which make it easy to snack on. The rice is topped with fresh fish sourced from markets all over Japan and the sushi is crafted right in front of your eyes. The restaurant will also offer other dishes created with seasonal ingredients.

Bar 2

Spirits take centre stage at Time Out Market Osaka’s other bar. Expect a curated selection of Japanese offerings, with a particular focus on the country’s thriving whisky scene, alongside bottles from across the world. Mocktails, smoothies and other soft drinks will also be available at both bars.

Koala Shokudo

IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO ENJOY a fresh take on Osaka staples like okonomiyaki, yakisoba and takoyaki paired with great wine, then the Time Out Market outpost of Koala Shokudo is for you. A popular establishment in the famous Tenjinbashisuji shopping street, Koala Shokudo offers a menu of teppan specialities made with carefully selected ingredients including black pork, wagyu beef tendon and fresh vegetables. Menu highlights include the kurobuta pork belly yakisoba and the tonpeiyaki featuring pork wrapped in a fluffy omelette.

Julian Sucré Acid

Kitaro Sushi

Koala Shokudo

Kankokushokudo Iru

Mel Coffee Roasters

Bar 1

Eating & Drinking

Kushiage001 produced by Kushiage010

KUSHIAGE001 RAISES the humble Japanese pub food of deep-fried skewers to an artform. The sister restaurant of 010, a winner of consecutive Michelin Bib Gourmand awards, the Time Out Market outpost cooks up creative kushiage that showcase the best Japanese seasonal ingredients alongside creative skewers inspired by cuisines from around the world.

Pizza Timewarp Lacerba

THIS PIZZA JOINT IS RUN by chef Masaaki Fujita of Osaka’s renowned restaurant Lacerba, where he cooks up everything from regional Italian cuisine to Neapolitan pizza. With hopes of creating ‘neo-pop’ pizza that suits the creative spirit of Osaka, Pizza Timewarp Lacerba will be serving up orthodox Neapolitan pies along with creative renditions such as pizza with black pork, Okinawan brown sugar and cacao.

Nikutoieba Matsuda

RUN BY A BUTCHER-CUM-CHEF , Nikutoieba Matsuda has been dazzling wagyu-lovers in neighbouring Kashihara since 2020. Now Osaka can join in the party with Matsuda’s delicately prepared Yamato beef available in the city for the first time.

Passion Udon Sanshu

THIS NOODLE SHOP is an offshoot of Jonetsu Udon Sanshu, a highly regarded restaurant championed by Osaka’s udon lovers. At the Market, owner Tatsuya Kubo will be crafting authentic Sanuki udon, known for its chewy texture, paired with an eclectic range of toppings from local beef to seasonal tempura.

Saboten Taqueria

AN OUTPOST OF MEXICAN FINE DINING restaurant Milpa in Osaka’s Horie district, Saboten Taqueria is helmed by chef Willy Monroy, who has also been with Noma Kyoto since 2023. Monroy strives to make food that Mexicans would be excited to taste, conjuring up dishes like tacos and ceviche with seasonal Japanese ingredients.

Kushiage 001

Nikutoieba Matsuda

Saboten Taqueria

Pizza Timewarp Lacerba

Passion Udon Sanshu

Seiichiro, Nishizono

Seiichiro, Nishizono

THIS POPULAR OSAKA PÂTISSERIE was founded back in 2014 by chef Seiichiro Nishizono, who has only upped his innovative sweets and desserts game since. At Time Out Market Osaka, Nishizono will be serving up a new parfait using a unique combination of flowers, herbs and spices which represent Japan’s four seasons.

Watanabe Curry

CHEF OSAMU WATANABE will be cooking up his distinctive style of curry, made with a combination of Japanese sea bream and chicken soup stock along with Sri Lankan

of ramen for noodle fiends using flavours from around the world. Highlights include the beef hakubutsu soba made with beef bone broth and the vegan soy sauce soba.

A NEW FOOD AND CULTURAL HUB

It is not just the city’s best food and drink that will come together at Time Out Market Osaka – the space will also curate unique cultural experiences. The full schedule will be announced soon, but expect intimate concerts, expertly guided sake tasting sessions and screenings of films by some of the most compelling visionaries in Japanese cinema. The venue also features a specially commissioned mural by Shun Nakao, the trailblazing artist whose works combine graffiti and anime culture with a vibrant ’80s aesthetic.

THE DETAILS

Time Out Market Osaka, Grand Green Osaka South Building B1F, 5-54 Ofukacho, Kita. timeout.com/time-out-market-osaka Open 11am - 11pm, Monday to Sunday (last orders at 10:30pm)

Zagin Diversity

Watanabe Curry

It takes a village

Travelling with food journalist Matt Goulding to discover the culinary culture of southern Osaka

THERE’S A GOOD REASON OSAKA IS REFERRED TO AS THE KITCHEN OF JAPAN

The city boasts a storied history as a former national capital and a key distribution hub, and its distinct food culture attracts millions of visitors annually. Among them is Emmy-winning food journalist Matt Goulding, known for his work with the media company Roads & Kingdoms and his Apple TV+ series Omnivore. Through this work, Goulding’s admiration for Osaka’s culinary scene drew the attention of Osaka Governor Hirofumi Yoshimura, earning him the title of prefectural culinary ambassador in 2024.

In his new role, Goulding recently travelled to southern Osaka. The area, made up of the Minami Kawachi and Senshu regions south of the city of Osaka, is the driving force behind the prefecture’s famous culinary culture, having long provided Osaka with the fresh seafood and unique vegetables it is known for. During the trip, he visited with Governor Yoshimura and local restaurateurs, artisans and producers to learn more about the true cooks in the kitchen of Japan. ‘It takes a village to make a meal,’ Goulding told us, and as we travelled throughout the area, the truth of that became more

“You don’t get a food culture as high quality as Osaka’s without the fundamentals, and that starts with ingredients”

agricultural heritage. Oasi is a veritable shrine to the region, showcasing everything from local ceramics to organic wine and heirloom vegetables. ‘This is what a restaurant should be,’ Goulding explains, ‘a showcase of the local ecosystem.’

point for discovering Minami Kawachi, a region characterised by its rich artistic and

For ceramicists like Toru Ryuji Iwasaki, the influence of the local ecosystem is apparent in their work. Having experimented primarily with decorative pottery for 20 years, Hatta says his current calling is towards more traditional, everyday pieces that embody the wind, earth and natural surroundings of the region.

Describing colour as the most important aspect of his craft, Iwasaki achieves vivid hues with a combination of glazing and airbrushing techniques, evoking Minami Kawachi’s fresh fruits, nuts and flowing rivers. Despite their stylistic differences, Hatta and Iwasaki agree that their work is ultimately a product of their surroundings. ‘I think that’s the most fascinating thing about pottery,’ Hatta says. ‘The final touches are left to nature.’

Minami Kawachi is home to a burgeoning wine community and, for local organic wine

Soutaro Noma, the influence of the surroundings is more subtle. ‘My wine is made up of thousands of invisible factors,’ he tells us. ‘Everything from the rain, soil and sunlight to my mood when I’m touching the grapes.’ Despite the relative infancy of the natural wine industry in Minami Kawachi, Goulding says he believes its future is in good hands. ‘Food and wine are always best when approached from a holistic standpoint,’ he notes. ‘And clearly, Noma san is representing that in what he’s doing.’

Back at Oasi, a defining characteristic of the restaurant is its emphasis on traditional Naniwa vegetables. Local farmers such as Yuka Inui have a long history of producing ebi imo, a traditional Japanese taro known for its shrimp-like shape and culinary desirability, particularly in seasonal cuisine. Ebi imo requires careful cultivation, and the labourintensive farming techniques essential to its value are upheld by producers like Inui. A fourth-generation ebi imo farmer, she tells us that her parents’ passion for their work inspired her to continue their legacy. Now, she says, she hopes to play a key role in preserving and advancing southern Osaka’s food culture. ‘You need people like Inui san doing exactly what she does,’ Goulding remarks. ‘The more you lose people like Inui san, the more you lose culinary identity.’

Further west by Osaka Bay in the city of Hannan, Naniwa Sake Brewery is one of a dying breed of producers upholding the region’s sake culture. Among only ten remaining establishments of its kind in the region, the heritage-listed brewery has maintained its 300-year tradition of crafting sake by hand,

Naniwa Sake Brewery

Soutaro Noma

Yuka Inui

Toru Hatta’s ceramics

Ryuji Iwasaki

using water sourced from the nearby Izumi Mountains. While many competitors prioritise mass production, Kazuhiro Naruko, the 10th-generation head of the family-owned brewery, explains that Naniwa’s brewers focus on quality; their sake has won the gold prize at the annual Japan Sake Awards on eight occasions. Supported by the local community, Naruko says that his company’s mission is to promote not only sake culture but Hannan itself and the history and cultural heritage of the prefecture.

Nearby, Izumisano Outdoor Seafood Market has long sustained Osaka’s appetite for seafood. The market is a major source of Osaka staples like black sea bream, torigai

(Japanese cockles) and blue crab, with the port’s daily haul auctioned off at 2pm and dispatched nationwide. Above the market, Masahiro Amano and his restaurant, , breathe new life into the local community. As a town, Izumisano effortlessly blends traditional charm with a vibrant local music culture, which the Yellow Shrimp showcases with regular events and festivals. These happenings, Amano says, have been a way to attract renewed interest in the area from both locals and international visitors. ‘We’re hoping that through music and collaboration with locals, we can attract not just older people but younger people too,’ he explains. ‘That’s our dream – to bring people together, think about the local area and how we can sustain it.’

In his new role, Goulding’s job is ultimately to showcase the broader appeal of the prefecture, and getting outside of the city, he says, is essential to that. ‘It’s an energy; it’s a body of people unlike any other in Japan, and all the things they create just happen to be especially delicious, thoughtful and invigorating,’ he describes. ‘You don’t get a food culture as high quality as Osaka’s without the fundamentals, and that starts with ingredients. In a place that’s been named the kitchen of Japan for centuries, you better believe that that kitchen is well stocked.’

WHERE TO STAY

Designed by Tatsuno Kingo, the architect behind Tokyo Station, Nanten-en is a traditional ryokan inn in the city of Kawachinagano, south of Osaka and around 40 minutes by train from Namba Station. The heritage-listed building sits upon the Koya Kaido, a 1,000-year-old pilgrimage road. Exhibiting traditional sukiya (Japanese teahouse) style architecture and surrounded by gardens, the ryokan draws its bath water from a natural radium hot spring and serves dishes spotlighting local seasonal ingredients such as ebi imo.

Nanten-en

The Yellow Shrimp

Oasi

kitchen knife. Here’s our look for. By

OSAKA IS A CITY THAT KNOWS ITS WAY around a blade. From samurai swords to the knives used by Michelin-starred chefs, some of Japan’s finest silverware has been forged by the city’s blacksmiths. Osakan knives are known as sakai, after the traditional blacksmith district, but you can now pick one up across the city. But before you start slicing through your savings, here’s everything you need to know about how to give your kitchen a cutting edge.

The right knife for the right job Japanese knives are specialised, each designed for a specific function. Here are the most common types you’ll find in Osaka’s shops:

1

GYUTO – The Japanese answer to the western chef’s knife, gyuto knives are versatile all-rounders. With thinner blades than their western counterparts, they excel at slicing meat (the name translates as ‘cow sword’), but are also great for chopping vegetables and mincing herbs. If you’re only getting one knife, this is a strong contender.

2

SANTOKU – Literally meaning ‘three virtues’, the santoku is designed for slicing, dicing and chopping. It has a shorter, slightly wider blade than the gyuto, making it great for home cooks who want a compact but versatile knife.

3

NAKIRI – With its rectangular shape, with straight edges and squared-off tip, the

nakiri is perfect for chopping vegetables with precision. Unlike a western cleaver, which it resembles, it’s not designed for cutting through bone, but it makes light work of your five-a-day.

4

DEBA – If you plan on preparing whole fish, a deba is essential. This heavy, single-bevel knife is used for filleting and even chopping through small bones.

5

YANAGIBA – Long, thin, and razorsharp, the yanagiba is the go-to knife for slicing raw fish. Named after a willow leaf, its design ensures delicate, precise cuts, essential for making beautiful sashimi.

Get a grip

Japanese knives come with two main types of handles:

WA-HANDLE (Japanese-style) – Typically made from dark woods like magnolia or ebony, these handles are lightweight, ergonomic, and often octagonal or D-shaped for a comfortable grip.

YO-HANDLE (Western-style) – Heavier and often made with riveted wood or synthetic materials, these handles resemble those found on European knives, offering a familiar feel for those used to western choppers.

HOW TO Spot a quality knife

Not all knives are created equal, and price alone isn’t always a reliable indicator of quality. Here’s what to look for:

THE WAVE EFFECT

A high-quality Japanese knife should have a visible ‘wave’ around three-quarters of the way up the blade, a result of the quenching process that hardens the steel.

TRIPLE-LAYERED STEEL

Many premium knives are made using three layers of steel. When examining the blade, look for the distinct lines where these layers meet.

A SLIGHTLY CURVED TIP

A good-quality knife should not have a completely straight tip. A very square tip is more prone to chipping.

Dark wood handles resist rot and last longer than lighter wood alternatives.

WHERE TO BUY

IF YOU’RE SERIOUS about finding the best knife, head straight to Sennichimae Doguyasuji, Osaka’s legendary kitchenware street. This bustling shopping district is packed with specialist stores selling everything from cast-iron takoyaki pans to wasabi graters, but the real stars are the knife shops. Here are a few must-visit spots:

Sakai Ichimonji Mitsuhide – One of Osaka’s most prestigious knife shops, Sakai Ichimonji Mitsuhide has been selling blades in Sennichimae Doguyasuji for over 70 years. Their collection includes over 2,000 blades.

14-8 Namba Sennichimae, Chuo (Namba Station, Nankai line). global.ichimonji.co.jp. 06 6633 9393. 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-6.30pm Sat, Sun and holidays.

Jikko Osaka Ura-Namba Shop – Opened in 2024 near Sennichimae Doguyasuji, Jikko claims to be the world’s smallest knife shop, with over 100 knives packed into a shop the size of five tatami mats. Jikko has a larger outlet on Ebisubashi-Suji.

9-11 Namba Sennichimae, Chuo (Namba Station, Nankai line). jikkocutlery.com. 06 6567 9232. 10am-6pm daily.

Tokuzo - A bright modern shop, Tokuzo carries knives to suit every budget and the friendly staff will happily guide you to your new favourite piece of cutlery.

14-8 Namba Sennichimae, Chuo (Namba Station, Nankai line). tokuzo.com. 06 653 68857. 10am-5.30pm daily.

English-speaking buyers, Tower Knives near Tsutenkaku Tower offers a curated selection of high-quality Japanese knives, with friendly staff who can guide you through your purchase.

1-4-7 Ebisu Higashi, Naniwa (Ebisucho Station, Sakaisuji line). towerknives.com. 06 6643 9400. 10am-6pm daily.

Sakai Takayuki – If you want to make a pilgrimage to where it all started, Sakai Takayuki is one of the oldest blacksmiths in the region. Its knife gallery is based in the district that gave it its name and where its smiths still forge knives using traditional techniques, making it a great place to invest in a blade with real history.

2-2-22 Kurumanocho Nishi, Sakai, Sakai (Sakai Station, Nankai line). aoki-hamono.co.jp. 072 229 3737. 10am-5pm Mon-Fri n

DURABLE HANDLES

Sennichimae Doguyasuji

Sennichimae Doguyasuji

A tale of two cities

Whether you want to stay in the bright lights of Tokyo or are keen to visit Osaka in its Expo year, the New Otani has a hotel you will love.

The New Otani chain has provided hospitality and luxury to guests since September 1964, when its Tokyo flagship hotel opened on the eve of the Olympic Games. More than 60 years later, Hotel New Otani Tokyo continues to set the standard for top-quality accommodation in the capital, while in this landmark Expo year, its Osaka hotel offers comfort and convenience for visitors to the Kansai metropolis. Here are five things you’ll love about the New Otani hotels in Tokyo and Osaka.

Hotel New Otani Tokyo

The breakfast

Hotel New Otani Tokyo excels when it comes to the most important meal of the day. There are several options: authentic Japanese breakfasts at Kioi Nadaman; a buffet with a view on the 40th floor of the Garden Tower; or American or continental breakfasts alongside

the splendid Japanese greenery at the Garden Lounge. But for a breakfast feast so renowned that people travel from great distances just to try it, Satsuki is the place. For Japanese food aficionados its extensive breakfast buffet offers freshly-made onigiri, shoyu ramen with minced pork, ikura (salmon roe) and a vast array of sushi and tsukemono (pickles). There’s also bone-in Iberian ham, French pastries from Pierre Hermé Paris and a yoghurt bar with superfood toppings.

The gardens

The 10-acre landscape gardens at Hotel New Otani Tokyo predate the rest of the complex by approximately 400 years. Once owned by samurai lords, this pocket of tranquillity at the heart of the world’s biggest city features a traditional stone garden with rare red stones from the coast of Niigata prefecture, the scarletcoloured Taikobashi Bridge over a busy koi pond, and some 60 cherry

trees that blossom a blushing pink every spring and are lit up spectacularly at night. Sakura is a highlight of every springtime tourist’s Tokyo itinerary, and it’s right here at the heart of the hotel complex.

The location

It can sometimes feel like Hotel New Otani Tokyo is a long way from the bustling metropolis, but its peaceful location is in fact in the heart of the city. There are several metro stations within walking distance, giving visitors access to many of Tokyo’s subway lines, and plenty to visit nearby including the Toyokawa Inari Shinto shrine, the National Diet Building and the Imperial Palace.

View & Dining The Sky

One of the most indulgent culinary experiences in the capital can be found on the 17th floor of the main building. Panoramic views of the city accompany a sumptuous buffet

with live cooking stations creating western, Japanese and Chinese dishes – the sushi and tempura stations and the wagyu beef at the teppanyaki are highlights.

Executive House Zen

Executive House Zen is a hotel within a hotel – a luxury boutique offering, inspired by Japanese traditions of hospitality, which is guaranteed to make any Tokyo stay extra special. The experience begins with exclusive check-in at the Zen Lounge, where complimentary drinks and light meals – not to mention a glorious view of the city skyline, the Akasaka Palace and Mount Fuji – are available from morning to night (chocolates and macarons from Pierre Hermé Paris make the perfect end-of-day treat). The emphasis on comfort, luxury and personalised service extends to the spacious, beautifully appointed guest rooms, some of which come

Executive House Zen in Hotel New Otani Tokyo

Hotel New Otani Tokyo’s Japanese garden

and Japanese places specialising in tempura, oden and sake (Isshin); soba and udon (Nakajima), sukiyaki and hotpot (Fujio), yakiniku barbecue (Jojoen Yugentei) and Edo-style sushi (Kenzan). The pick of the bunch, however, is Keyaki, a teppanyaki restaurant on the top floor where skilled chefs flip meat and fish on the grill to a stunning backdrop of Osaka Castle and the city skyline.

The patisserie

Executive chef Shinsuke Nakajima’s bread and pastries at Patisserie Satsuki deserve their own mention. Among the gorgeously crafted items on sale at this alluring lobby-level store are Mont Blanc chestnut cakes, strawberry mille-feuilles, mamekan (a traditional Japanese dessert made with sweet red beans and agar cubes) and Japanese-style shortcakes with colourful layers of fresh fruit and fluffy sponge.

equipped with cypress wood bathtubs for the full Japanese bath culture experience.

à Hotel New Otani Tokyo. 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda, Tokyo. 03 3265 1111. newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo

Hotel New Otani Osaka

The location

As is the case in Tokyo, Hotel New Otani Osaka is located in a bubble of tranquillity at the heart of the city. On the banks of the Daini Neya river, a short walk from the 16th century Osaka Castle, the hotel is ideally located for the city’s most popular tourist attractions, including Universal Studios Japan.

The restaurants

There are more than a dozen restaurants, bars and cafés at Hotel New Otani Osaka, including upscale French eatery Sakura, elegant Chinese venue Taikan En,

The guest rooms

The rooms at Hotel New Otani Osaka, just like those in Tokyo, put an emphasis on comfort.

From the superior rooms with their views of Osaka Castle to the extra spacious deluxe rooms, the accommodation is always elegant, tastefully furnished and very comfortable. A series of fabulously renovated new family rooms with space for up to seven guests call on ancient Japanese style, with delicate screens, beautiful hinoki baths and a suite of welcome amenities including locally made sake.

The journey to Expo 2025

The most anticipated event in Japan is taking place in Osaka this year – and it’s super-easy to get from Hotel New Otani Osaka to the Expo 2025 site. The journey on the Osaka Metro Chuo Line from Morinomiya Station, close to Hotel New Otani Osaka, to the newly built Yumeshima Station, at the entrance to the Expo site, is simple, direct and takes around 40 minutes.

à Hotel New Otani Osaka. 1 Chome 1-4-1 Shiromi, Chuo, Osaka. 06 6941 1111. newotani.co.jp/en/osaka n

Hotel New Otani Osaka

Keyaki restaurant

Best things to do in Dotonbori

Our pick of the best restaurants, cafés and bars in Osaka’s most popular nightlife and entertainment district.

By Emma Steen

KNOWN FOR ITS BUSTLING STREETS filled with delicious street food, exciting nightlife and colourful neon signs – including the iconic Glico running man, a symbol of the area since 1935 – Dotonbori has something for everyone. You can sample local specialities like takoyaki (octopus fried in balls of wheat batter) and okonomiyaki (savoury pancake), shop for souvenirs, and explore the many fascinating attractions that make this vibrant neighbourhood a must-visit destination.

Takoyaki Juhachiban

It’s easy to spot this popular food stall on the main street of Dotonbori – just look for the giant 3D takoyaki ball popping out above the storefront. The secret to its takoyaki is in the batter, which is blended with dashi stock and milk to create a creamy texture. Next comes the octopus, the red pickled ginger and the tiny shrimp before tempura bits are generously sprinkled on top. The pièce de résistance comes

courtesy of the chefs rolling the tempura bits into the batter to create a crunchy texture. Once the takoyaki is ready, it’s turned quickly and frequently to ensure even cooking. After ten minutes, it’s ready – crispy on the outside and slightly creamy on the inside. It’s the perfect snack to fuel your adventures in Dotonbori, and a must-try for adventurous eaters travelling to Osaka.

> 1-7-21 Dotonbori (Namba Station). 06 6211 3118. d-sons18.co.jp/free/shop_dotonbori. 11am-9pm daily.

Hozenji Temple

You wouldn’t expect there to be room for a temple in this bustling district of neon signs, souvenir shops and casual eateries, but the area has been home to Hozenji Temple since 1637. This little prayer site is dedicated to the Buddhist deity Fudo Myo-o, a militant messenger of esoteric teachings. Though this protector of Buddhism is often depicted with a glaring face and swords, the statue enshrined here is covered in green moss, formed as a result of visitors splashing water over it. This ritual is believed to help make one’s dreams come true and provide support during difficult

times, like how Fudo Myo-o aided the Namba community through generations of war and adversity.

> 1-2-16 Namba (Namba Station). 06 6211 4152. houzenji.jp. Open 24 hours. Free.

Hozenji Sanpei

Down the charming alleyway of Hozenji Yokocho is the long-running Hozenji Sanpei restaurant, which has been churning out okonomiyaki for 50 years. Here, you can watch as the

Things to Do

chefs cook the savoury pancakes on a large teppan grill in the centre of the restaurant. The batter is seared before the toppings are added, allowing the pancake to become crispy on the outside while remaining soft and fluffy inside. There’s both counter and table seating, and there’s usually a line outside the restaurant of eager eaters.

>1-7-10, Dotonbori (Namba Station). 06 6211 0399. hozenji-sanpei.gorp.jp. 5pm-11pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-3.30pm, 5pm-11pm Sat-Sun. Closed Tue.

Kamigata Ukiyo-e Museum

Nestled in the heart of Dotonbori, this museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of traditional Japanese woodblock printing. What sets this museum apart is that it only displays works made in Kamigata, which is what the Kansai region of West Japan was called during the Edo period (1603-1867). Back in those days, the region was considered more culturally sophisticated than present-day Tokyo, with traditional institutions such as Kabuki theatre. In addition to poring over the roughly 30 works displayed in the museum’s permanent exhibition, visitors can take part in a woodblock printing experience where they learn the ins and outs of creating their own ukiyo-e artwork (reservation required).

>1-6-4 Namba (Namba Station). 06 6211 0303. kamigata.jp/kmgt. Tue-Sun 11am-6pm. Closed Mon. Entry ¥700 (adults), ¥300 concessions. Printing experience extra.

Glico-ya

Glico may be best known as the maker of the addictive chocolate-covered Pocky sticks, but the confectionery company, which was founded in Osaka 103 years ago, also has a vast range of snacks that you probably haven’t heard of. The Glico-ya store, found beneath the company’s big blue billboard, serves as a one-stop shop for edible souvenirs. Popular items include super-sized Pocky as well as candy boxes made in collaboration with popular anime franchises.

an immersive experience that transports clubbers to another world. Every week sees a new set of guest DJs from different parts of Japan and overseas. Past names include psychedelic talent Hanabi Mosaico Records, Tokyo DJ Ayakateen and Madd Maxx of United Beats Records. Entry fees vary depending on the event but usually hover between ¥2,000 and ¥3,500, with a drink included.

>B1, 7-9 Soemoncho (Nipponbashi Station). 06 6213 7200. instagram.com/club_under. 10pm-5am Wed-Sat. Entry varies.

Club Under

>Nakaza Kuidaore Building 1F, 1-7-21 Dotonbori (Namba Station). 06 6484 0240. 10am-10pm daily.

Almost every night is a party at Club Under, a basement music venue that opened in early 2022 to cultivate the local community of trance and techno lovers. With a kaleidoscopic ambience of flashing lasers, violet-hued webbing and digital projections, the space offers

In need of directions, or maybe a meat-free snack? Make a pit stop at this tourist centre and vegan restaurant, café and bar, where you can grab some plant-based takoyaki or kushikatsu while researching options in the area. Aside from offering multilingual support to tourists, Pivot Base showcases destinations around Kansai and Japan with videos playing on screens throughout the space.

>1F Nakaza Kuidaore Building, 1-7-21 Dotonbori (Namba Station). 070 3228 7614. dotonborinight.com/pivot. 11.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat-Sun.

Art & Culture

The ultimate Osaka art crawl

Osaka is bursting with inspiring galleries and museums, but how much art can you pack into one day? The Time Out Osaka team set off to find out

MORNING

Nakanoshima

THE NATURAL PLACE TO BEGIN our one-day dash of visual inspiration is Nakanoshima, aka ‘Museum Island’. Sandwiched between the Dojima and Tosabori rivers, this threekilometre-long stretch is packed with cultural institutions including the Osaka Prefectural Nakanoshima Library, Osaka Science Museum and Nakanoshima Park, the city’s first public park opened in 1891. But today we’re only here for the art, so our first stop is the island’s newest addition. Proving that good things are worth waiting for, Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka (NAKKA) finally opened in 2022 after almost 40 years of planning. The jet-black, cube-like architecture makes for an imposing sight, but a playful cat sculpture by Kenji Yanobe at its doorsteps hints at the joys that await. Past the feline sentry you’ll find one of Japan’s most diverse collections of art, which includes 6,000 modern and contemporary works by Osakan and international artists including Yuzo Saeki, Salvador Dalí, René Magritte and Jean-Michel Basquiat. You could easily spend

the day here, but time is tight – so we focus on the permanent collection on the second floor, including Saeki’s ‘Postman’ and ‘Osaka in the Snow’ by Yoson Ikeda, which depicts this very neighbourhood as it was almost 100 years ago. From NAKKA it is a short walk to the grand dame of the city’s art scene, the National Museum of Art, Osaka. This museum’s avantgarde metal structure, designed by the late Argentine architect César Pelli, is a work of art in its own right, with a sail-like formation inspired by the movements of bamboo. The museum space proper sits underground and has a frequently rotating mix of Japanese and international contemporary art plucked from its collection. Most pieces date from the 1950s onwards and our whistlestop tour takes in work by French conceptualist Christian Boltanski, Osaka-born installation artist

and sculptor

In need of restoration we head to Graf, an impeccably styled shop and café run by the Kansai region’s leading design studio, for a lunch set that looks almost as good as it tastes. From here we leave the island and take a ten-minute stroll to Yoshimi Arts. Overlooking the Hanshin Expressway, this compact gallery represents artists including Minako Nishiyama, noted for her withering take on the kawaii aesthetic and the representation of women in popular culture. It’s powerful stuff and leaves us with a lot to contemplate as we head north to our next destination…

Chiharu Shiota

Michio Fukuoka.

National Museum of Art, Osaka

Nakanoshima Museum of Art , Osaka

Nakanoshima Park

AFTERNOON Kita

KITA, OSAKA’S NORTHERN DOWNTOWN , is going through a renaissance with new openings such as Grand Green providing the area with an architectural shot in the arm. We start our afternoon at the iconic Umeda Sky Building, but instead of joining the queue for the viewing deck, swerve left to the Koji Kinutani Tenku Art Museum. Koji Kinutani has been an influential force in the Japanese art world for more than 40 years and this beautifully serene space on the 27th floor is dedicated entirely to the artist. Home to the largest collection of Kinutani’s pieces anywhere, including a show-stopping 3D video installation, it also boasts the colourful Tenku café, sprawling views of the city and a studio space where you might be lucky enough to spot the artist himself. Dazzled, we head south, cutting through Umeda Station to streetside gallery YOD and its broad range of contemporary art, from graphic design to mixed media. With a particular focus on artists from the mono-ha movement, which emerged in Tokyo in the 1960s as a response to rapid development and industrialisation, it is a gloriously Japanese-centric affair, keen to prioritise homegrown talent.

EVENING

Kitakagaya and Nagai Park

WITH ENERGY LEVELS WANING , we are beginning to doubt the wisdom of our ambitious art and design crawl, but luckily the emerging Kitakagaya art district has exactly what we need to put the pep back in our step. Kitakagaya was once the hub of Osaka’s shipbuilding industry, and many of its former factories and warehouses have been repurposed to house art spaces and artists’ studios. The walls of this neighbourhood are covered in murals; we also saw striking sculptures, hidden stencil graffiti and illustrated manhole covers. On our all too brief visit we were able to see how Kitakagaya, with its vacant buildings and lower rents, has become Osaka’s creative haven over the past few years – and why its strong sense of community spirit has been so inspiring to local artists and makers.

At its heart is Chidori Bunka. This renovated 60-year-old bunka jutaku, a type of two-storey housing complex built mainly in the Kansai region in the 1950s and 1960s, has become one of the most exciting spots in the city, with workshops and a barbershop flanking an exhibition space which hosts performances by Contact Gonzo, an acclaimed contemporary art collective which has performed in Europe and the US. Just as importantly for our flagging collective, Chidori Bunka is also home to a café specialising in Basque cheesecake and warming Dutch pancakes. We end our day of art with Japan’s worldconquering digital art collective TeamLab at its Botanical Garden in Nagai Park. Their ‘Digitised Nature’ project, open to visitors after dark, looks at the relationship between nature and art, with the goal of showcasing the park’s natural beauty in a different light. The pieces are both immersive and interactive, responding to changes in the weather and the movements of visitors as well as those of birds and insects in the garden. It is trippy stuff and the perfect end to a memorable day.

Get out of town

For a different artistic experience just a short train ride from Osaka, visit the Gion Kagai Art Museum and immerse yourself in the culture and aesthetic of geiko and maiko, Kyoto’s iconic women entertainers. From admiring exquisite kimono and watching graceful dances to sipping local sake at the in-house Art Cafe, the museum makes for an essential Kyoto experience.

à Gion Kagai Art Museum. Yasaka Club, 570-2 Minamigawa, Gion-machi, Higashiyama, Kyoto. gion-museum.com/en. 11am-7pm, closed 1st and 3rd Wed and mid-March to early May. ¥1,500, ¥700 concessions.

Kitakagaya street art

TeamLab Botanical Garden

Koji Kinutani Tenku Art Museum

LGBTQ+

Out on the town

Drag performer Velma Belle guides you through some of their favourite spots in the city

ORIGINALLY FROM SALT LAKE CITY, Utah, Velma has been living and performing in Osaka for more than eight years. Part of All Star Saloon, a troupe of entertainers that host nights where ‘gender, sexuality, age and race are no longer important’, Velma is a born entertainer. Who better then to guide us through the most joyous LGBTQ+-friendly spots in the city?

How would you describe the LGBTQ+ scene in Osaka?

Osaka’s LGBTQ+ scene is vibrant, diverse and welcoming. While it may not be as large as Tokyo’s, it has a strong sense of community and an exciting nightlife, especially in areas like Doyamacho. You’ll find everything from cozy bars where everyone knows your name to high-energy drag performances and club nights. There’s a warmth to Osaka’s queer scene that makes it feel like home, whether you’re a local or just visiting.

How open is the city?

I think Osaka is one of the most open and progressive cities in Japan, with a reputation for being friendly and accepting. While Japan as a whole still has work to do in terms of LGBTQ+ rights, Osaka has a strong, visible queer community, and many businesses

are LGBTQ+-friendly. People here tend to embrace individuality, and if you’re open to experiencing the city with an open heart, you’ll feel right at home.

Where do you perform and what can audiences expect?

I perform at various venues across Osaka, but mainly at Bar Theatre Ludo, near Shinsaibashi station. I bring a mix of glamour, live vocals and burlesque to the stage. You can expect dazzling costumes, a lot of camp, and a lot of sensuality. I love incorporating theatrical elements into my performances, whether it’s classic musical theatre, sultry jazz, or a modern pop twist. I hope my performances are unforgettable – sexy, elegant, and always a little cheeky.

What can you tell us about All Stars Saloon? It seems like a fun night out…

All Stars Saloon is the cabaret variety show in Osaka, held at Bar Theatre Ludo about once a month. The lineup is always top-tier, featuring everything from burlesque and drag to dance, magic, comedy, and plenty of sex appeal. It’s an electrifying, high-energy show where every performance is unforgettable. Honestly, it’s the best show in Osaka – there’s nothing else like it!

‘There’s a warmth to Osaka’s queer scene that makes it feel like home’

Where would you head for...

...Your first night out in the city

Doyamacho! It’s the heart of Osaka’s LGBTQ+ scene, packed with bars and clubs. A great place to get a feel for the community.

...A chill drink

Bar Ruiz in Shinsaibashi, a cozy spot with a relaxed vibe, great drinks and friendly staff.

...A big night out

Explosion is the club for an all-night party. Drag shows, DJs and a wild, queer-friendly crowd – it’s always a blast.

...A recovery coffee

9 Borden Coffee on Tempozan. Strong coffee, cool and chill atmosphere, and exactly what you need after a big night out. n

à Follow Velma on Instagram @thevelmabelle

Music & Nightlife

The six best bars in Amerikamura

From karaoke dive bars to bespoke cocktail dens, this lively district is packed with nightlife venues for every taste.

By Emma Steen

WELCOME TO AMERIKAMURA , or Amemura as it’s known by locals, one of Osaka’s most bustling retail and entertainment districts. With a strong American influence, Amemura is filled with an eclectic mix of Westerninspired fashion and trendy bars. The district’s name, which translates to ‘America Town’, is a testament to the area’s culture and history – it’s been a centre of youth culture since the early 1970s.

Just a ten-minute walk from Dotonbori, Amemura is a popular destination for young trendsetters who come to shop, socialise and enjoy the vibrant nightlife. The district boasts some exceptional bars, which serve up everything from classic cocktails to craft beers and Japanese-inspired tipples. Whether you’re looking for a laid-back atmosphere or a more upscale experience, you’re sure to find a bar that suits your taste in Amemura.

Good Times Reggae Bar

IF YOU’RE IN THE MOOD for some good vibes and great music, head to this laidback bar dedicated to all things reggae, where you can relax to the sounds of classic and modern tracks. It’s also the place to hear occasional live music from local and international reggae musicians; perfect for connecting with other music lovers. Don’t miss out on the drinks, either: the jovial bartender stocks an excellent variety of whiskeys and rums, making Good Times a worthy spot both for connoisseurs and those looking to expand their boozy horizons. à 3F, 2-10-21 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chuo (Namba Station). 070 4412 6889. reggaebar-goodtimes-osaka. com. 8pm-5am daily.

Moonshine

YOU CAN BELT OUT SONGS in English, Japanese and many other languages at Moonshine, which makes it one of the most popular international karaoke venues in Osaka. The bar is always packed with an energetic and diverse crowd, creating a lively and exciting atmosphere. If you get hungry after singing your heart out, you can refuel with a classic American hot dog with all the toppings. You’ll find some interesting drinks, too, including local craft beer and homemade cocktails, plus the bar’s signature Moonshine drink à 2-12-8 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chuo (Namba Station). 090 5154 5142. instagram.com/ moonshineosaka. 7pm-3am (until 5am Fri & Sat).

Good Times Reggae Bar

Mustang

Sitting pretty near one of the busiest street corners in Amerikamura, Mustang is a pleasant place to while away an evening; the interior is warm and inviting, with a vintage feel and rock ‘n’ roll décor – including a colourful assortment of bras donated and signed by patrons over the years. It’s also a great venue for trying some new drinks, from classic cocktails to crazy shots set on fire. Whether you’re there for a relaxed evening with friends or a solo nightcap, Mustang always delivers.

à 2-13-1 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chuo (Namba Station). 090 5154 5142. instagram.com/mustangosaka. 6pm-5am daily.

RBCB – Rock Bar Cherry Bomb

ROCK MUSIC FANS IN OSAKA should add RBCB to their must-visit list. Hidden away on the fifth floor of an inconspicuous building, the bar has been serving local and visiting rockers for over a decade and boasts an interior reflecting rock’s rebellious spirit, with dark walls, velour seats and vintage paraphernalia from posters and album covers to plastic skeletons and American licence plates. Tacos are served on Tuesdays and homemade pizza on other nights, while the drinks are fittingly heavy-hitting, too – from creative cocktails such as the ’Cherry Bomb’ to original craft beers made in collaboration with Tokyo Aleworks.

à 5F, 2-4-8 Higashi-Shinsaibashi, Chuo (Namba Station). 080 5339 6471. instagram.com/rbcb_osaka. Sun 8pm-2am, Mon 8pm-3am, Tue 6pm-3am, Wed-Sat 8pm-3am.6pm-3am, Wed-Sat 8pm-3am.

Music & Nightlife

Nayuta

Marked only by an occult-looking symbol, the entrance to this moody and intimate venue near Triangle Park is through a tiny door. Once inside, guests are not greeted with a menu but instead offered a bespoke cocktail. The imaginative bartenders will create a custom cocktail that either reimagines a classic or is entirely original based on your spirit of choice or preferred style of drink. The gothic and mysterious atmosphere of Bar Nayuta adds to its allure as a ‘nocturnal apothecary’. The bar uses a range of in-house bitters, infusions and liqueurs to create cocktails that are unique, making it well worth the effort to find.

à 5F, 1-6-17 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chuo (Namba Station). 06 6210 3615. bar-nayuta.com. 5pm-3am daily.

Ghost

GHOST IS THE GO-TO PLACE in Osaka for those who love hip-hop and R&B. As soon as you step inside, you’ll be captivated by the design, which features a futuristic, almost space-age aesthetic. The talented bartenders are always happy to mix up something special tailored to your tastes, but the real highlight of Ghost is the dance floor. With stateof-the-art lighting and sound systems, this is the perfect place to let loose and dance the night away to the latest beats spun by talented local and international DJs.

à B1F, 2-17-3 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chuo (Namba Station). 06 6214 0545. ghostosaka.com. Thu-Sun 10pm-5am.

One per fect day in Kansai

Several of the Osaka area’s top attractions are located outside of the city limits. Complete your day trip with a stop at these popular food and shopping facilities around Kansai

Visit: Tsurumiryokuchi Expo '90 Commemorative Park

In 1990, Osaka hosted The International Garden and Greenery Exposition, a large-scale gardening event that featured 83 countries. On the site today is this beautiful park with seasonal flowers and a large pond at its centre. It’s split into different sections, with the Mountain Area particularly photogenic thanks to its windmill, rose garden, Japanese garden and small farm. You can also try horse riding in the park at Tsurumi Green Horseriding School or soak in a hot spring at Suishun natural onsen. à 2-163 Ryokuchikoen, Tsurumi (Tsurumi-Ryokuchi Station). tsurumi-ryokuchi.jp. Hours vary by facility.

ALSO WORTH VISITING:

Panasonic Museum

Explore the world of Panasonic Group at this corporate museum dedicated to the history of the internationally renowned electronics company. Set inside a recreation of the company’s former Kadoma headquarters from 1933, the attraction showcases late Panasonic founder Konosuke Matsushita’s views on life and management, plus the company’s products from different eras.

à 1006 Oazakadoma, Kadoma (Nishisanso Station). tinyurl.com/panasonicmuseum. 10am-5pm, closed Sun & hols. Free.

Osaka Castle

A 20-minute train ride from Kadomashi Station (near LaLaport Kadoma) gets you to Temmabashi, just a 15-minute walk from Osaka Castle. With a history dating back to 1583, Osaka Castle is now preserved as a museum with exhibits that tell the story of the building’s turbulent history. There’s also an eighth-floor observation deck for views of the city.

à 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo (Morinomiya, Osakajokoen stations). 06 6941 3044. osakacastle.net. 9am-5pm daily.

Stop by:

Mitsui Shopping Park LaLaport Kadoma and Mitsui Outlet Park Osaka Kadoma

There’s something very new about this shopping centre – and it’s not just because the property only opened in April 2023. This spacious venue offers a unique two-in-one concept, where discount shopping facility Mitsui Outlet Park is nestled within the larger mall LaLaport.

Bargain hunters will love Mitsui Outlet Park Osaka Kadoma for its array of local and international brands, all offering deep discounts. In fact, this is the outlet mall nearest to Osaka city centre. Taking over the entire second floor are close to 100 shops, including highly coveted brands such as Coach, Polo Ralph Lauren, Nike, Under Armour, Beams, Ray Ban and more. Better yet, about 80 percent of them offer tax-free shopping.

Meanwhile, LaLaport Kadoma is home to many shops selling local and regional gifts and

souvenirs. Kyotanba Ajimu no Sato is the Kyoto specialist, where it carries foodstuff from Japan’s premier heritage destination, including black bean sweets, locally made miso and condiments, plus a wide array of matcha products from tea and confectionery to even curry.

As its name suggests, Hokkaido Umaimono-Kan is where you’ll find the gourmet offerings of Japan’s northernmost prefecture. There’s a lot of corn products here – naturally so, since Hokkaido corn is widely praised – featured alongside local produce such as kombu seaweed and ready-to-eat Hokkaido soup curry meals. For instant gratification, get the shop’s soft-serve ice cream, available in Hokkaido milk and melon flavours. You’ll find more fresh produce and groceries from local farms, especially beloved Japanese fruit in pristine condition, at Nosanbutsu Chokubaisho Shun no Eki right across the hallway.

The food options at LaLaport Kadoma are also not to be missed. For one, it houses an offshoot of Osaka city’s top foodie attraction, Kuromon Market. And here it’s air-conditioned, so you can enjoy classic Japanese and Osaka dishes from takoyaki and sushi to tonkatsu and gyoza in comfort. Kuromon Sanpei, especially, is well-loved for its super fresh kaisendon rice bowls topped with thick-cut sashimi.

Prefer ramen? Make a beeline for the Food Terrace on the third floor. The noodles at Ramenya Mitsuba Kadoma Shucchoujo and Ramen Nagomi are exceptional. Then, all there’s left to do is take a breather on the breezy rooftop, where kids can frolic at the little playground while everybody else just relaxes on the grassy lawn. Your perfect day, sorted.

à 1-11 Matsuocho, Kadoma (Kadomashi Station).

mitsui-shopping-park.com/mop/osakakadoma/english. See website for opening hours.

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Visit:

Tower of the Sun at Expo ’70

Commemorative Park

Taking pride of place at this sprawling park that formerly hosted the Osaka World Expo 1970 is the Tower of the Sun by the late Japanese artist Taro Okamoto. This approximately 70m-tall structure has three exterior faces representing the past, present and future. Inside the tower is Okamoto’s massive ‘Tree of Life’, which tells the story of evolution.

You can also visit the two gardens that surround the tower. In the Natural and Cultural Gardens, you can enjoy seasonal flowers and take a stroll along the Sorado, an aerial promenade with views across the park. The famous Japanese Garden, on the other hand, is created with the best Japanese landscaping techniques.

Tickets for the Tower of the Sun can be booked in advance via the website (priority entry to those with reservations). Adult tickets cost ¥720 (¥310 for primary and middle school students). You can also get a set ticket with access to the tower and the Expo ’70 Commemorative Park for ¥930 (¥380 for school students).

à 1-1 Senribanpakukoen, Suita (Bampakukinenkoen Station). taiyounotou-expo70.jp/en. 10am-5pm, closed Wed (opening hours correspond to those of Expo ’70 Commemorative Park).

Stop by: Expocity

The first thing you’re sure to notice at Expocity, the multipurpose complex near the Expo ’70 Commemorative Park, is the jaw-dropping Osaka Wheel. At 123m high, it is Japan’s tallest Ferris wheel. Around it are several entertainment attractions including interactive aqua-zoo Nifrel and indoor variety sports facility VS Park.

Taking pride of place in this sprawling property is LaLaport Expocity. The massive shopping mall is home to major Japanese stores such as Loft, ABC-Mart and Jins – it even has a Sanrio store as well as the official Studio Ghibli

shop Donguri Republic. For a fun Japanese experience, visit Gashacoco and spend your loose change spinning for capsule toys. Here the hidden surprises come in many forms, from famous character figurines and toys to tote bags and pouches.

You should definitely make your way to the Food Pavilion on the third floor, even if it’s just to get a good view of the beloved Osaka icon, the Tower of the Sun, from one of the seating areas. But do stay as this food court serves up amazing local specialities. First and Original Takoyaki Aiduya is renowned for being one of the pioneering takoyaki purveyors in

onion and pepper mayo, and without sauce (the secret lies in the batter that’s infused with dashi). Complete your meal with perfectly golden karaage fried chicken from Torisanwa and deliciously chewy Kagawa-style udon (available in soup as well as soupless preparations) from Sanuki Udon Magokoro. Then, make your way down to Tsujirihei Honten on the first floor for decadent uji matcha desserts.

If you’re travelling in groups, Osaka Konamon Okonomiyaki Goroppe Shokudo is the place for you. Located in the outdoor restaurant area near Expocity’s entrance, this okonomiyaki restaurant has long tables and best of all, affordable, all-you-caneat okonomiyaki. Otherwise, go around the corner to Peanuts Cafe and enjoy a meal with Snoopy and friends.

à 2-1 Senribanpakukoen, Suita (Bampakukinenkoen Station). mitsui-shopping-park.com/ lalaport/expocity. See website for opening hours.

Visit: Azur Maiko Beach

An 800-metre stretch of white sand with views toward the stunning Akashi-Kaikyo bridge that connects the mainland to Awaji Island, Kobe’s Azur Maiko Beach makes for an ideal escape from the city on a hot summer day. The compact park by the beach encompasses barbecue facilities, pleasant walking paths and a popular spa facility.

Maiko Beach offers especially picturesque vistas at sunset on clear days, when the calm waters of the Seto Inland Sea to the right and Osaka Bay to the left glow in shades of blue and gold and the scenery of Awaji Island slowly fades out of sight.

à 1 Kaigandori, Tarumi, Kobe (Tarumi, SanyoTarumi stations). kobe-park.or.jp/azur/english.

Stop by:

Mitsui Outlet Park Marine Pia Kobe

Just under 50 minutes from Osaka Station – and a nine-minute walk from Tarumi or Sanyo-Tarumi station – this glistening new outlet mall offers shopping with beautiful views. Reopened in November 2024 after more than a year of renovations, Mitsui Outlet Park Marine Pia Kobe in Hyogo prefecture is right on the water and within easy walking distance from Azur Maiko Beach.

The mall boasts a whopping 145 shops, including fashion, outdoor, hobby and homeware stores, conveniently set up across two floors so that all shops can be accessed without having to step outdoors. Besides being the ideal venue for some rainy day retail therapy, Marine Pia Kobe offers plentiful

dining options, including an airy food court with a terrace looking out towards the Akashi-Kaikyo bridge and the Seto Inland Sea in the distance.

The grounds encompass a park built around an artificial lagoon, with a great variety of children’s playgrounds and, in the shadow of a palm tree grove, a monument spelling out ‘Be Kobe’ – the perfect spot for snapping a few Insta-ready shots with the Akashi-Kaikyo bridge in the background. All in all, Marine Pia Kobe has enough to keep the entire family occupied for hours while making for a scenic shopping destination just a short hop from Osaka city.

à 12-2 Kaigandori, Tarumi, Kobe (Tarumi, Sanyo-Tarumi stations). mitsui-shopping-park.com/mop/kobe. See website for opening hours.

You know you’re in Osaka when…

…eating has its own rules

By Marcus Webb

OSAKA IS A PLACE THAT LOVES TO EAT gastronomic scene has its own unique customs and quirks. Here’s how to dine like a local.

Shout at waiters

Well, maybe shouting is a bit much, but

of a snarling, stick-wielding chef, known as the Daruma

When walking into a restaurant or izakaya you may well be gesticulated at yourself. If a member of staff makes an X gesture with their index fingers in front of their face it means the place is either full or about to be. Smaller venues often take just one booking a night so even if you can spy empty seats the X is non-negotiable. Equally, an O sign with fingers or the entire arm means everything is ok. Interestingly this is why the buttons on PlayStation controllers are X and O.