Time Out Tokyo magazine #32 by Time Out Tokyo

Tokyo Update

A SHINY NEW ART DESTINATION EMERGING

Acclaimed international art collective teamLab has done it again – this time transforming an abandoned rice terrace in Ibaraki into an immersive art installation. The installation features floating light fixtures and a unique ‘walk on water’ experience. In the surrounding nature, there are additional artworks exploring the interplay of light, movement and sound. teamLab: Hidden Traces of Rice Terraces is easily accessible as a day trip from Tokyo. à tinyurl.com/TOTteamlabibaraki

things Tokyoites are talking about

A brand new district opening in central Tokyo

DESPITE BEING THE WORLD’S most populous city, Tokyo continues to surprise with its ability to create new, vibrant spaces. Take Takanawa Gateway City, set to open in March 2025. In the new district you’ll find the largest Newoman shopping centre in the Shinagawa area, alongside Mon Takanawa: the Museum of Narratives, a cultural hub designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma, slated to open in spring 2026. The development also aims to honour the city’s history by preserving a section of the Takanawa Embankment, a significant Meijiera (1868–1912) landmark, offering a glimpse of Tokyo’s past amidst its ongoing evolution. à takanawagateway-city.com

Tokyo getting a new three-star restaurant

WITH THE LATEST MICHELIN GUIDE, Tokyo reaffirmed its status as the city with the highest total number of Michelin stars in the world.

Most notably, Tokyo now boasts a new three-Michelin-star restaurant, bringing the total number of three-star establishments to 12. Led by executive chef Daniel Calvert, Sézanne, located in the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, offers an innovative take on French cuisine. Better start saving – dining here will set you back ¥50,600. à tinyurl.com/TOTmichelin25

Shibuya banning public drinking all year round

ONE OF TOKYO’S most vibrant nightlife districts, Shibuya has recently struggled with overcrowding and rowdy behaviour during holidays and festivals. In response, city officials have introduced a year-round ban on public drinking. The new measure prohibits alcohol consumption on the streets from 6pm to 5am in major areas like Shibuya Center Street, Miyashita Park and Maruyamacho. This move aims to curb littering and alcohol-related disturbances in the bustling district. à tinyurl.com/TOTshibuyaban

WELCOME TO

Gakugeidaigaku

The former university town just two express train stops away from Shibuya is one

of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods.

By Lim Chee Wah

EVERY YEAR, Time Out reveals the most vibrant and exciting places on the planet by way of the World’s Coolest Neighbourhoods ranking. And we’re proud to report that Tokyo’s Gakugeidaigaku made it to No. 15 on the 2024 edition of the list.

Based on local insights and insider expertise gleaned through Time Out’s comprehensive network of on-theground writers and editors, the survey examined city neighbourhoods across the planet based on livability metrics including food and drink, arts and culture, street life and sense of community. Being one of the world’s greatest cities, Tokyo regularly features in the index, and this year Gakugeidaigaku emerged as the capital’s coolest neighbourhood – and one of the most exciting in the world. To be precise, Gakugeidaigaku isn’t the actual name of the neighbourhood, but the name of the Toyoko Line station that serves the area officially known as Takaban.

Spend a perfect day in Gakugeidaigaku

But the station name has been widely adopted to refer to this vibrant and diverse part of Meguro ward. What we love about this one-time university enclave is that Gakugeidaigaku flies firmly under the radar, having always lived in the shadow of its more famous neighbours, Jiyugaoka and Nakameguro, both a few stations away along the same Toyoko Line. This makes Gakugeidaigaku feel like an unexpected find with some serious street cred. While the crowds flock to the two more well-known neighbourhoods mentioned above, cool kids and insiders know that Gakugeidaigaku has a more relaxed vibe and is much less commercialised. Here you’ll find mom-and-pop grocers and local institutions like bathhouses co-existing with independent, creative restaurants, cafés and bars. And being just four stations away from Shibuya (two if you take the express train), ‘Gakudai’ makes the perfect antidote to all that city-centre madness.

PICK UP A FLUFFY, cloud-like Higuma doughnut to go while you make your way to the slick WR café for an excellent cup of coffee. By 11am, you should be at Onya, lining up for a bowl of the best udon in Tokyo.

For a post-lunch dessert, you could grab a classic taiyaki (fish-shaped cakes filled with red bean paste) at Meguro Hiiragi (left) or sit down for a dainty French pastry at Taisuke Endo before dropping by Yuyugin to shop for artisanal tableware. Then, spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing at Chiyo no Yu bathhouse. This traditional sento was given a thorough makeover in recent years by famed architect and bathhouse designer Kentaro Imai. In the evening, grab a seat at Yakitori Yaoya Hanare for charcoal-grilled chicken on skewers, before ending the night with Japanese craft beer at Another 8 Corner. n

HOW TO

Yakitori Yaoya Hanare

PLEASURES Unexpected

PLEASURES

For 15 years Time Out Tokyo has made it its mission to uncover the city’s secrets. Forget the iconic attractions, major museums and chain restaurants, we’re interested in the secret gardens, underground speakeasies and places that time forgot. As we celebrate our crystal anniversary, we’ve gathered together 15 off-theradar gems that will delight both seasoned Tokyoites and adventurous out of towners – but let’s keep them between us, shall we? à

Unexpected Pleasures

Soaking your feet while looking out across

the city

Things to do

One of Tokyo’s most exciting new openings of 2024 is the multipurpose complex next to the world’s largest seafood wholesale market, Toyosu Market. Designed to evoke an Edo-period streetscape, the expansive Toyosu Senkyaku Banrai is divided into two main areas: the Toyosu Edo-mae Market, featuring a variety of shops selling Japanese foodstuffs and restaurants offering Japanese cuisine and seafood, and the Tokyo Toyosu Manyo Club, a multi-level, 24-hour onsen that also offers accommodation. On the eighth floor you’ll find an impressive ashiyu (foot bath), where you can soak your tired toes while enjoying the mighty impressive views of Tokyo Bay. After all the walking around Tokyo, it’s the perfect way to unwind.

à 6-5-1 Toyosu, Koto (Shijo-mae Station). toyosu-senkyakubanrai.jp. Scenic Ashiyu Foot Bath Garden, 9am-10pm daily.

Putting yourself (and your plate) in the picture

Food and drink

Arts and culture

You get dinner and a show when you spend an evening at MoonFlower Sagaya Ginza. This unique dining space run by digital art collective teamLab seats just eight and combines seasonal dishes with a feast for the eyes. When a course is served, digital flowers, trees and vines appear to sprout from the plates and grow across the table, even climbing the walls. The playful, if enigmatic, menu (intriguing descriptions include simply “fishes are playing” and “river flows”) changes with the seasons, but features high quality ingredients such as Saga wagyu and Seiko crab. It is not cheap – expect to pay around ¥40,000 per person – and you’ll need to book months in advance, but it is certainly memorable.

à 6F Puzzle Ginza, 2-5-19 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Tokyo stations). moonflower-sagaya.com. 7pm-11pm daily.

3

Discovering Tokyo’s secret, and most photogenic, shrine

Things to do

The red run of torii gates at Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine is one of the most photographed spots in the country, but Tokyo’s equivalent is thankfully yet to flood Instagram. Nestled among the bustling skyscrapers of Akasaka, the traditional shinto Hie Shrine dates back some 800 years and boasts its own striking gate-lined staircase.

Once you’ve selfied your way to the top, you’ll discover the shrine’s tranquil grounds and ‘Treasure House’ with its sprinkling of relics including ancient letters and an ornate samurai sword. While Hie-jinja is best known for its annual Sanno Festival, one of Tokyo’s grandest, visiting during quieter times reveals its charm as a locals-only haven. Keep an eye out for the guardian monkey statues — an unusual sight in Japanese shrines — symbolising the shrine’s ties to eternal love (the spot is a popular spot for wedding photos).

Whether you’re looking to change your romantic fortunes, chasing the perfect photo op or seeking a soulful retreat, Hie-jinja Shrine proves that sometimes the best treasures are the ones hiding in plain sight.

à 2-10-5 Nagatacho, Chiyoda (Kokkai-Gijidomae, Tameike-Sanno stations). hiejinja.net. 6am-4pm daily.

Unexpected Pleasures

Cracking open a gachapon

Shopping

First imported from America in 1965, capsule toys – or gachapon – really caught the Japanese imagination in the 1970s. Machines dispensing these treats-in-a-pod were initially set up in front of sweet shops, with toys intended primarily for kids, but in recent years they have grown up – with everything from cheeky treats for adults to scale models inside. The very embodiment of an unexpected pleasure, the joy of capsule toys is that you don’t know what you’re going to get until you crack that ‘egg’. You can spin for a surprise across the city. At art supplies store Sekaido you could be rewarded with miniature replications of artworks including the Venus de Milo while handicraft shop Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten produces miniatures of traditional Japanese toys. If you don’t have time to dart around town collecting them all, head to #C-pla in the famous Shibuya 109 mall. Here you’ll find a wealth of machines offering everything from Hello Kitty minis to disturbingly detailed models of toilets (complete with flushable contents).

à 2-29-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). shibuya109.jp/shop/cpl. 10am-9pm daily.

Soaking in a subterranean sento

Things to do

A sento is an essential part of the Japan experience, but these communal bath houses are on the decline across the country – which makes Kosugi-yu Harajuku, an authentic ‘Showa retro’-style public bath hidden in the basement of a mall, a particularly unexpected pleasure. An outpost of long-established Koenji neighbourhood bath house Kosugi-yu, the basement branch features a ‘widescreen’ mural of majestic Mt Fuji (a staple of traditional sento) which flanks several baths. The traditional ‘hot water’ bath is a toasty 42-43°C, but there’s also a moderate ‘milk bath’ and a cold water option for those who don’t like it hot. Tradition has it that you end your session with a glass or milk, but for those who prefer something a little stronger there’s a stand-up bar from iconic brewer Sapporo on hand.

à B1F Tokyu Plaza Harajuku Harakado, 6-31-21 Jingumae (Harajuku, Meiji-Jingumae stations). kosugiyu-harajuku.jp. 7am-11pm, closed Thu. Adults ¥550, primary school children ¥200, younger children ¥100.

Sipping on cocktails in a hard-to-find speakeasy

Eating and drinking

The suave A10 has all the hallmarks of a classic Prohibition-era American speakeasy – low lighting, misty-eyed music, killer cocktails and, of course, secret entrance – without the downside of turning its patrons into criminals. Finding it is half the fun. To the untrained eye, the set of lockers across from Ebisu Park is just another streetside storage unit, but tug on the right box and the whole wall swings open to reveal a set of stairs leading down to the basement.

Beyond them you’ll find a suave record bar filled with vintage vinyl, from which a revolving band of curators plucks the soundtrack for the evening. A10 has a near endless selection of classic cocktails, but there are also house specials by the head bartender. There is a cover charge of ¥1,320 per person but, like the bar itself, the funds are worth finding.

à 1-12-11 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). a10club.jp. 7pm-3am daily. Table charge of ¥1,320 per person.

‘The suave A10 has all the hallmarks of a classic speakeasy: Finding it is half the fun’

Unexpected Pleasures

Swapping the concrete jungle for the real thing

Things to do

A jungle retreat is one of the last things you’d expect from Tokyo, but at Satologue on the outskirts of the city you can find just that. Launched in May 2024, this unique combination of sauna, restaurant and greenery is nestled deep among the trees near Okutama. Visitors can participate in guided nature walks – exploring the on-site vegetable gardens, wasabi fields and gardens. The initiative is housed in a previously abandoned farmhouse, revitalised by architect Yasushi Horibe, renowned for projects like the floating hotel Guntû. The lunchtime-only restaurant offers a seasonal French-inspired menu crafted from local ingredients, while the sauna, which utilises local timber and spring waters, is a work of art. Those wishing to explore the area further can rent electric bikes and tuk-tuks, and accommodation options are set to be added in 2025. If you’re feeling really adventurous, local tour operator Tokyo Mountain Tours offers a unique River Clean experience, which combines thrilling whitewater rafting with litter-picking stops helping you to play your part in preserving this very special place.

à 1 Tanazawa, Okutama Machi, Nishitama Gun (Kori Station).

Feasting on convenience store food hacks

Food and drink

What surprises could possibly be found in a konbini, Japan’s ubiquitous convenience stores which are seemingly on every corner? The answer lies in the food aisles. In recent times FamilyMart, 7-Eleven and the like have been upping their snack game by offering exclusive collaborations with local restaurants, including pizzas created by two-time World Pizza Champion Chef Yamamoto from Da Isa restaurant and instant noodles from upscale ramen-chain Afuri.

The real fun, however, is the new trend of Tokyoites mixing together what’s on offer to create something unique. For example, create a cut-price chicken burger to rival the work of the Colonel by grabbing a piece of Family Mart’s famichiki (fried chicken), one of the ready-sauced buns from the bakery section and a potato hash from the hot box which sits next to the registers. Alternatively create your own sangria by picking up one of the fresh smoothie packs from the freezer and instead of blending it in the in-store machine pouring over one of the bottles of sparkling wine from the fridge. A taste sensation. à Tokyo wide. 24 hours daily. Price varies.

Learning the art of a sneak attack in a museum

Arts and culture

Tokyo is not short of museums that will guide you through Japan’s fascinating history - but how many of them let you actually live it? Enter Samurai Ninja Museum Tokyo With Experience which, as the name suggests, has a range of action-packed activities to accompany its exhibits.

Opened in December 2023, the place focuses on Japan’s ancient iconic warriors, with English-language tours through its astounding array of samurai and ninja gear. After this things get up close and personal.

Experiences included in the entry fee include wearing a samurai armour replica and learning how to throw shuriken ninja stars. Those who want to fully immerse themselves can upgrade to the ninja training course, which features a lesson on stealth, dodging swords and using a blowgun. On the calmer end of the spectrum, a tea ceremony experience at the nearby ‘Maikoya’ offers offers relaxation without all the sneaking and star-throwing.

à 1-8-13 Nishiasakusa, Taito (Asakusa, Tawaramachi stations). mai-ko.com/samurai. 9am-6pm daily. Basic tickets adults ¥3,000 children ¥2,700. Experiences (including basic tickets) ¥6,000-¥12,000.

Turning yourself into an action figure

Shopping

Arts and culture

It’s no secret that Japan loves an action figure, and now you can get in on the act by creating your own micro doppelgänger at Small Worlds. The miniature museum’s unique 3D scanning technology allows you to create 1:80, 1:35 or 1:24 scale figures of yourself in your most heroic pose. It can also immortalise groups of friends and even pets. Colourful clothes, the more outlandish the better, are recommended to add vibrancy to mini-you and the tech can also capture most props you care to bring along. Prices start at ¥6,600 and figures are usually posted out a month after scanning (although you can spring for the express service if you really cannot wait). As well as allowing you to shrink yourself, the museum is also home to one of the largest collections of miniatures in the world, with real-life locations such as NASA’s space centre in the 1960s and fictional scenes from animes including Sailor Moon getting the titchy treatment. If you’re particularly proud of your own mini me, you can join them by becoming a ‘resident’ and having your figure placed in one of the museum’s exhibits for a year.

à 1-3-33, Ariake, Koto (Ariake Tennis no Mori, Kokusai-Tenjijo stations). smallworlds.jp. 9am-7pm daily. ¥2,700.

Taking a walk in the past

Arts and culture

Traces of Tokyo’s rich past can be found at the spectacular Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum, a picturesque branch of the Edo-Tokyo Museum, which allows you to take a surprising stroll through bygone days. Its seven hectares of space are divided into three areas, which house 30 carefully restored and preserved buildings, covering architectural designs between the 17th and 20th centuries. Walk through a merchant’s town in the eastern area and discover flower and umbrella shops, as well as the interior of a traditional public bath house.

The central and west zones of the park showcase the homes of the upper classes, such as part of the villa of former prime minister Takahashi Korekiyo and the residence of the 11th head of the Mitsui family, Takakimi Mitsui (which is under renovations until March 2025). All of them are accessible, but prepare for lots of slipping in and out of shoes.

à 3-7-1 Sakuracho, Koganei (Musashi-Koganei Station). tatemonoen.jp. 9.30am-4.30pm, closed Mon. ¥400, university students ¥320, junior high and high school students ¥200, free for younger children and junior high and high school students who live or attend school in Tokyo.

Unexpected Pleasures Discover experimental sushi with cocktail pairing in a Shibuya bar

Food and drink

In the inner sanctum of the Bellwood, one of Tokyo’s most revered bars, you’ll find some joyously odd couples. At the hidden Bell Sushi room – where only four guests can sit at a time – executive chef Ayaka Terai and legendary bartender Atsushi Suzuki have put together nigiri sushi and cocktail pairings that may well blow your mind.

Think maguro tuna topped with pickled carrot and crispy tempura batter to create a banh mi-inspired delight, washed down with a delightfully playful drink made with mugi shochu, fermented tea and sherry – a play on the quintessential green tea offered at sushi restaurants. If that’s not enough, shima aji mackerel is combined with jalapeno and a tortilla chip for sushi reminiscent of Mexican cuisine and can be offset with a shot-sized serving of a boozy pink ginger concoction to sip as a palate cleanser in lieu of gari (pickled ginger). And since this is a 12-piece omakase, the selection changes regularly, ensuring a fresh experience every time. Reservations, and a taste for adventure, are essential. After you’ve filled up on sushi, don’t rush off – you’re missing out if you don’t stay on for the bar’s inventive cocktails. The drinks here are inspired by Tokyo’s kissaten (traditional coffee shop) culture and feature unexpected ingredients such as black garlic and katsuobushi.

à 41-31 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). instagram.com/the_bellwood. 6pm-2am daily.

Unexpected Pleasures

Getting to work at an antiprocrastination café

Things to do

If you have a deadline looming but suffer from eternal procrastination, fear not: Tokyo has a surprising solution for you. The Manuscript Writing Café is a space for writers, work-fromhomers and other people under a time crunch, which – alongside the snacks and coffee you’d find at a regular co-working space – also includes gentle cajoling by staff until you’ve met your deadline.

Patrons book weekend slots in the warmly lit space, joining the convivial atmosphere created by working alongside a small group of others (the café only accommodates ten people at a time) working towards a goal. You can pick the level of vocal support you would like from the staff — mild (‘how’s it going?’), normal (‘you have an hour left, probably time to step it’) or hard (‘Put that phone down right now and get cracking!’) and regular bells let you know how long you have left. If that weren’t enough, you have to pay extra for any overtime, giving you a financial incentive to focus.

à 2-1-24 Koenjikita, Suginami (Koenji Station). koenjisankakuchitai.blog.jp. Sat & Sun 11am-6pm. ¥240 for the first 30 minutes and then ¥480 an hour after that.

Getting back to nature on a hidden roof garden

Things to do

In a city that never stops sprawling, upward expansion in Tokyo has reached great heights with a fantastic selection of rooftop gardens. If you know where to find them, these uplifting spots provide a place to feel the breeze, breathe some fresh(ish) air into your lungs and get lost in greenery. Favourites include Tokyu Plaza’s Omohara Forest, with its abundant greenery and small amphitheatre, Miyashita Park which features skate ramps with very big drops and the Meguro Sky Garden, built on the roof of a circular loop junction on the Metropolitan Expressway. Our tower-topping go-to, however, is the Ginza Six Garden. Perched atop Tokyo’s glitziest mall, this 4,000sqm space features seasonal foliage, meaning you can see red in autumn and cherry blossoms in spring. There’s a suitably stylish green space, complete with a small shrine, wooden decks to sit on and a water feature for kids to splash about in. The views are priceless.

à 6-10 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). ginza6.tokyo. 7am-11pm daily. Free.

‘As the world looks for a planetfriendly source of protein, creepy crawlies are stepping up to the plate’

Enjoying a cricket ramen that could save the planet

Food and drink

Eating insects isn’t just reserved for celebrities on ridiculous reality shows, you know. As the world looks for a planet-friendly source of protein, creepy crawlies are stepping up to the plate. In Tokyo Akihabara restaurant Antcicada is leading the way with a cricket ramen that has been winning praise since 2020. The restaurant is the brainchild of Shinohara Yuta, a chef who calls himself chikyu shonen (earth boy) and who is proud that more than 100 crickets go into each bowl of his soup, with additional deep fried critters also appearing as a garnish. You can wash the meal down with a jug of cricket ale, brewed on site and, yes, featuring yet more insects. Grubs up!

à 2-4-6, Nihonbashi-Bakurocho, Chuo (Bakurocho Station). antcicada.com. 11am-3pm, Sat & Sun 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm, closed Mon-Wed. n

Anemoia Tokyo

An innovative performance blending dance, folklore and immersive storytelling

In recent years immersive art has become a global phenomenon, and now one of Tokyo’s most renowned dance companies, Dazzle, has taken the concept a step further with their thoughtprovoking production, ‘Anemoia Tokyo’. This 70-minute theatre experience blurs the boundary between audience and performers, integrating viewers into the story alongside the characters.

The audience sometimes joins the performance as passive witnesses and other times as ancillary characters in a surreal journey. Everyone shares the same space and plays a role in the unfolding narrative.

What is Anemoia Tokyo?

The concept behind ‘Anemoia Tokyo’ is encapsulated in its name, a neologism referring to the nostalgia you feel for a time and place you’ve never been. In a secluded space beneath the rail tracks near Tokyo Station, the audience boards a special train with a diverse cast of characters, bound for a mythical dimension that exists between life and death.

characters on this journey, you step into the unknown with them and become witness to their quests.

Meet your fellow commuters on the secret train

The story of ‘Anemoia Tokyo’ is inspired by Japanese folklore. It features a diverse cast of characters, each with their own quest. There are the People of Modern Times, consumed by the grind of work and disconnected from life, and the Adventurer, a dreamer searching for a lost childhood friend. A Yin-Yang Master battles evil spirits to uphold his family’s ancient legacy, while the Vindictive Spirit seeks to claim Kaguya, a woman with lost memories, for himself. Then there’s the Oracle, a guardian keeping the spirit’s curse at bay.

Everyone who enters this realm is a seeker. Some are looking for lost love, others are in search of answers to their deepest questions. As you join the

desires and regret, searching for answers and resolutions.

once saved by humans. Lastly, there’s Sennin, an immortal hermit who watches over the lives of others. Together, these characters navigate a mythical dimension between the living and the dead, each driven by longing,

What to expect at ‘Anemoia Tokyo’

What sets ‘Anemoia Tokyo’ apart is its unique structure: the audience is divided into smaller groups, each getting to watch various

acts up close. The actors tell their stories through interpretative dance, making this an entirely nonverbal production that transcends language barriers. No knowledge of Japanese is required, and when necessary, instructions are provided in English. This production demonstrates the emotive power

of physical theatre and is easily enjoyed by everyone.

At one point in the performance, you are free to roam the space. You can follow a particular character throughout their adventure or explore multiple storylines. It’s like a ‘choose-your-own-adventure’ experience, where you later piece the narrative together from your own perspective.

The setting itself is perfect for such a mystical journey. The production takes place in a purpose-built space beneath actual train tracks, where the rumbling of passing carriages adds to the

ambient soundscape. The space is divided into several rooms, each housing an art installation or sculpture. Audience members are free to explore these rooms 30 minutes before the performance begins. Later, as the story unfolds, these installations take on new meanings as they become integral to the narrative.

The performers interact with the artwork, and your understanding of the pieces changes as the story evolves. It’s a captivating and immersive experience, where art and storytelling are deeply intertwined.

THE ESSENTIALS Show times

Tue, Thu-Sat, 4pm, 6.30pm, 9pm; Sun & hols, 1.30pm, 4pm, 6.30pm. No shows on Mon & Wed, unless it’s a national holiday. Doors open 30 minutes before show time.

Location

2-4-4 Otemachi, Chiyoda, Tokyo

Tickets

Ticket prices vary according to date, time and season. See the ticketing website for more information. Note that same-day tickets cost an extra ¥1,000 and can be bought on-site.

Eating & Drinking

The ultimate surf and turf

The best restaurants at which to splurge on omakase sushi and wagyu beef, two of the most coveted cuisines in Tokyo. By Emma Steen and Lim Chee Wah

WITH AN ABUNDANCE OF TOP-SHELF INGREDIENTS and seasonal produce, it’s no wonder Tokyo is often touted as one of the world’s best cities for people who like to eat. And gourmands in the capital have long sought omakase sushi, where the chef decides what you’re going to eat, and wagyu beef, famed for its fine marbling. So if you’re looking to splurge on exquisite sushi or prime-grade wagyu – and we really do mean splurge, because food this good doesn’t come cheap – here’s our pick of the top specialist restaurants in Tokyo.

Sushi Yatagarasu

THIS UPSCALE OMAKASE SUSHI

RESTAURANT near Ginza leverages its parent company’s wholesale seafood business and direct connections with 150 fishing ports across Japan to secure some of the freshest and rarest seafood at great prices. As a result, you can enjoy quality seafood for a fraction of the cost you’d expect to pay – ¥22,800 for the 17-piece Issekisancho course and ¥26,800 for the 22-piece Yatagarasu course.

The restaurant’s excellent connections ensures that, even at these prices, it serves highly prized fish rarely found elsewhere. The selection changes with the seasons, but past highlights include the exquisite sakura masu (cherry salmon), known for its rich fat content, the supremely creamy shiroebitei (white shrimp), hailed as the ‘diamond of Toyama’, and kuromutsu (gnomefish or bluefish), a deep-sea member of the seabass family known for its clean, delicate flavour.

With seating for just eight diners, Sushi Yatagarasu’s intimate setting allows for an elevated experience where every aspect, from the precise cut of the fish to the elegant shape of the sushi, is executed with care. More importantly, this commitment to perfection begins with the preparation of the fish, with the ikijime method used to kill the fish humanely and quickly after it is caught, preserving its flavour and ensuring the highest quality for every bite.

à Four One Bldg 2F, 4-20-2 Shimbashi, Minato (JR Shinbashi, Shiodome stations). 050 5594 3976. instagram.com/sushi_ yatagarasu. Thu-Mon, 2 seatings at 5pm & 8pm, closed Tue & Wed.

Towa

THIS MICHELIN-STARRED

RESTAURANT masterfully blends traditional Japanese techniques with contemporary twists. The meal begins with lighter courses, such as sashimi and simmered dishes, before beefing up with the introduction of wagyu creations, starting with a spring roll filled with tender oxtail – a signature cornerstone of Towa’s take on modern kappo dining. The menu continues with carefully grilled cuts of tongue and fillet, artfully complemented by seasonal vegetables to enhance both flavour and presentation. Among the standout dishes is the oxtail soup paired with a traditional Japanese broth, which varies with the seasons: aubergine in the summer, and

velvety taro root in the winter. Dinner at Towa is by reservation only, with a course meal set at ¥35,090.

à Tokyo Modern Form Nishiazabu Building 2F, 4-11-25 Nishiazabu, Minato (Hiroo Station). 03 6433 5680. instagram.com/ nishiazabu_towa. Mon-Sat, from 6pm.

Udatsu Sushi

FOUND ON A QUIET RESIDENTIAL STREET in Nakameguro, one-Michelin-starred Udatsu Sushi is built on a concept of combining traditional Edomae sushi with the work of Japanese contemporary artists. In other words, it’s about embracing new ideas while staying true to its traditional roots. Drawing from his butchery background, head chef Hisashi Udatsu adds unique touches to his Edomae sushi, with dishes such as fatty tuna smoked in hay, sticky dashi jelly on striped beakfish, lightly charred marbled tuna, and a trout and seaweed roll filled with fresh micro-herbs instead of rice.

Good relationships help Udatsu secure the best catch from the veteran fishmongers

Sushi Yatagarasu

Towa

Eating & Drinking

of Toyosu market as well as choice produce from Kajiya Farm, which grows pesticidefree herbs and edible flowers for some of the top restaurants in the country. The omakase menus start at ¥13,200 for lunch and ¥22,000 for dinner. A vegetarian option is available for those who book at least two days in advance.

à 2-48-10 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 050 3550 5938. udatsu-sushi.jp. Mon-Fri, one lunch seating at 12noon, Sat, Sun & hols, two lunch seatings at 11am & 1pm. Dinner, two seatings daily at 6pm & 9pm.

Sushi m

THIS AOYAMA RESTAURANT is led by two seasoned chefs, Hideo Omori and Matsuzawa Shunsuke, alongside Yoshinobu Kimura, who brings a decade of experience as head sommelier at the two-Michelinstarred Narisawa. Chef Omori has 12 years of experience in washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) and 15 years as a sushi chef. The French-trained Matsuzawa Shunsuke, meanwhile, honed his craft at the much-missed Ginza fine dining restaurant Thierry Marx. Together, they craft a distinctive style of sushi which honours the cuisine’s deep traditions while making room for the odd innovative twist. The ‘m’ in the restaurant’s name stands for the French word ‘mariage’, reflecting the restaurant’s goal of harmoniously pairing food and drinks. So expect unconventional offerings, such as amadai (tilefish) brushed with garum (fermented fish sauce) from Tokushima prefecture and served with a condiment blend of fresh seaweed, wasabi and sherry vinegar, and Nagasaki oyster nigiri paired with a Japanese orange wine. The sleek interior features 12 seats around an L-shaped hinoki cypress counter. An omakase course is ¥33,000, with drink pairings from ¥14,300.

à At Home Square 2F, 4 -24-8 Minamiaoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 6803 8436. sushi-m.com. Tue-Sat 5pm-8pm (last orders), closed Mon and two Sun per month.

Kayamori

THIS WAGYU-FOCUSED restaurant opened in 2022 and is the brainchild of Takafumi Kayamori, who trained as a yakiniku chef for 20 years. There’s a warm, dimly-lit dining room with eight counter seats from which diners can watch the chef at work, although the star of the show is the wagyu kappo cuisine, which is carefully selected by the owner and served in a variety of ways that go far beyond your bog-standard yakiniku.

This restaurant only has one thing on the menu: an ‘omakase course’, a chef-curated meal which features unique dishes made with seasonal ingredients which enhance the magnificent wagyu beef.

Everything is freshly prepared and, if you’re in luck, you’ll be treated to Kayamori’s hand-rolled beef sushi or homemade soba noodles, both of which highlight the chef’s boundless creativity.

à Voere Kitazawa 2F, 3-1-20 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Higashi-Kitazawa Station). 03 6804 9815. instagram.com/nidaime_kayamori. Tue, Wed, Sun 6pm-11pm, Thu-Sun 6pm-11pm, Thu-Sat 12noon2.30pm, closed Mon. n

Sushi m

Udatsu Sushi

Shopping & Style

VISITING A MEGA METROPOLIS like Tokyo can easily be draining with so much walking, navigating and exploring to be done. Thankfully the city is full of unique treatments to put the spring back in your step. From satisfying head spas to skin-nourishing Japanese facials, here are some of the most relaxing and beneficial treatments to help you unwind while you’re on vacation. So go on, treat yourself.

Glow up and wind down

Sit back, relax and treat yourself to a rejuvenating time with these unique spa and beauty treatments. By Kaila Imada

Cypress bath at En Hakkou Onnetsu Mokuyoku

Soaking at a sento bath house is commonplace in Japan, but have you ever heard of dipping into a cypress wood enzyme bath? This traditional Japanese deep-heat treatment allows you to immerse yourself in a warm mixture made from hinoki cypress wood and leaves as well as rice bran.

You’ll feel all warm and cosy, as the powder is heated to around 65-80 degrees Celsius by the fermentation heat produced by microorganisms, without the use of electricity or gas. The cypress wood enzyme bath at En Hakkou Onnetsu Mokuyoku is said to help improve blood circulation, promote skin health and enhance overall well-being.

The spa also offers private rooms in which you can enjoy the cypress baths with your friends or family for an additional ¥4,400. You can also enjoy unique refreshments including enzyme drinks and organic brown rice amazake.

à Treatments from ¥8,800. KG Bldg 2F, 2-27 Agebacho, Shinjuku (Iidabashi Station). en-mokuyoku.com/kagurazaka. 03 6265 3704. 11am-7.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-7.30pm.

Nail art at Riverside Custom Nails

No one does your nails quite like Japan, where salons elevate mani-pedis to a work of art.

Riverside Custom Nails in Nakameguro is an English-friendly salon where talented nail artists will transform your talons. From simple one-colour gel manicures to elaborate 3D nail art, the designs can be customised to your liking. If you are wondering where to start, just check out their Instagram (@marikonailart) for a bit of inspo – you’ll see some pretty extravagant creations from 3D nails inspired by the artist Yayoi Kusama to colourful tie-dyed tips.

Aside from the nail art, all services come with cuticle care and nail health checks. Pedicures can also be arranged, as well as gel extensions if you wish to lengthen your nails.

à Treatments from ¥8,500. 1-30-4 Aobadai, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). riversidecustomnails.com. 10am-8pm daily.

Riverside Custom Nails

En Hakkou Onnetsu Mokuyoku

Head spa at Rabbicour

If you’ve searched through Japanese beauty treatments on TikTok or Instagram, chances are you’ve come across a head spa. The indulgent treatments at these spas let you put some extra care into your hair and scalp routine.

Rabbicour in Ginza offers a range of extensive treatments including their signature head soak cream bath which aims to help alleviate fatigue, stiffness, eye strain, scalp problems and even hair frizz. Treatments include a consultation followed by a relaxing neck, shoulder and scalp massage, shampoo treatment and cream bath, which helps drain the lymph nodes and remove toxins from the body.

For an additional ¥1,000, Rabbicour lets you choose one of their fun themed rooms for you to experience your treatment in. The main salon is frequently booked solid. Thankfully Rabbicour has recently opened a second location in Ginza offering the same services but without the waitlist.

à First-time treatments from ¥12,800. 2F 7-5-19 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). rabbicour.com. 03 6274 6693. 10am-10pm daily.

Super sento at Spa LaQua

No visit to Japan is complete without a visit to a bath house or hot spring and Spa LaQua is the ultimate Tokyo oasis. The upscale super sento is open 22 hours a day, allowing you to soak in a hot spring bath under the night sky or enjoy a blissful massage before the break of dawn.

Spa LaQua is also a sociable space with a host of dining options and co-ed areas where you can mingle with friends while enjoying low-temperature saunas and bedrock baths.

Aside from bathing experiences, you can also choose from a selection of beauty treatments including Thai massages, aromatherapy head spas and Korean body scrubs.

à Adults ¥3,230, children ¥2,640. 1-1-1 Kasuga, Bunkyo (Korakuen Station). tinyurl.com/TOTspalaqua. 03 3817 4173. 12midnight-9am, 11am-12midnight daily.

Japanese facial at Mocci Beauty

If you’re interested in Japanese skincare, booking yourself a facial in Tokyo is a good place to start. Mocci Beauty in Azabu-Juban is English-friendly and not only offers intensive skin treatments, but therapies to help you relax and rejuvenate your body and mind.

At this salon run by esthetician Miki, you’ll be able to find a facial that best suits you based on your individual skin needs. One of the most popular treatments is the 90-minute Japanese glow hydra facial which is recommended for all skin types. This facial aids in improving sensitive, tired and dehydrated skin through deep-pore cleansing, a soothing vitamin infusion mask and EMS light therapy (electronic muscle stimulator that helps serums absorb into the skin).

à Treatments from ¥16,500. 501 Decimo Azabu, 3-7-5 Azabujuban, Minato (Azabu-Juban Station). mocci-beauty.com. 080 2294 2225. 10am-9pm daily.

LYMPHATIC MASSAGE AT MEINOU DRY HEAD SPA

A dry head spa is similar to your regular head spa, but you won’t get a full blowout or shampooing here. Meinou Dry Head Spa specialises in lymphatic drainage treatments (massages to relieve swelling around your lymph nodes and help remove toxins from the body) and head massages which are believed to aid healthier sleep patterns –making them the ideal option if you’re struggling with jet lag or coming off a long, uncomfortable flight.

While the focus is mainly on your head, these treatments also include neck and shoulder massages to help you alleviate stiffness in your arms, neck, shoulders and even your face. Treatments are more affordable than a full body massage, starting at just ¥6,000 for a 50-minute session.

à Treatments from ¥6,000. Akasaka 104, 7-5-15 Akasaka, Minato (Akasaka Station). tokyo-dryhead.com. 080 4177 2209. 10am-10pm daily. n

Mocci Beauty

Spa LaQua

The magnificent seven

Go old-school with our guide to the seven best traditional neighbourhoods in Tokyo.

By Kaila Imada

WITH ITS GLITTERING SKYSCRAPERS and love of cutting-edge technology, Tokyo is undoubtedly a twenty-first century metropolis. But behind all the modernity, there are parts of the capital that have retained the vintage charm and distinctive culture that helped make the city what it is today. Old Tokyo is sometimes referred to as shitamachi, a term that translates to ‘lower city’, and is typically associated with areas around Tokyo that thrived before World War II.

Unlike other cities that may have a single old town area, Tokyo’s shitamachi neighbourhoods are scattered throughout the city. They are usually identified by their architectural makeup, consisting of small winding alleyways and traditional Showastyle buildings. If you want to get a feel for the Japanese capital before it powered the post-war economic miracle, here are some of the most popular spots where you can immerse yourself in Tokyo’s nostalgic atmosphere.

Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street

Things to Do

1 Yanesen

An amalgamation of three smaller areas –Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi –Yanesen oozes a cool, bohemian old Tokyo atmosphere. It’s peppered with tiny mom-and-pop shops, trendy boutiques, cafés and art galleries, while there are also tranquil areas perfect for a stroll including cherry blossom hotspot Yanaka Cemetery and the beautiful Nezu Shrine.

DON’T MISS

Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street is bustling with life and offers a fun mix of shopping boutiques, street food vendors and souvenirs galore. Stop in for a drink at Echigoya Honten, a local institution where you can enjoy an alfresco beer or cup of sake among locals. à 3-13-2 Yanaka, Taito (Nippori, Nishi-Nippori, Sendagi stations). 03 3821 0983. tinyurl.com/TOTechigoyah. 11am-8pm, closed Tue.

2 Mukojima

Sitting quite literally under the shadow of Tokyo Skytree, Mukojima is another traditional neighbourhood that has retained its old-fashioned spirit. Aside from Skytree, which was erected in 2012, the downtown area still has a lovely preserved shitamachi zone with many structures from the 1920s and 1930s still standing. The area was once a flourishing entertainment district, and today, it’s one of the rare areas in Tokyo where you might spot a real geisha.

DON’T MISS

Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens is a gorgeous flower park which is worth a visit at any time of year but is especially beautiful in spring when fuji or wisteria start to bloom, and in summer when you can see a rainbow of hydrangeas.

à 3-18-3 Higashimukojima, Sumida (Higashi-mukojima Station). 03 3611 8705. tinyurl.com/MHgardens. 9am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm) daily, closed Dec 29-Jan 3. ¥150, free for primary school children and younger.

KUREMO/ISTOCK

Mukojima-Hyakkaen Garden

3 Fukagawa

This bayside district of eastern Tokyo is close to the city’s central business areas but has somehow maintained a laid-back ambiance. Today, Fukagawa often plays host to many of the city’s traditional festivals such as the Fukagawa Hachiman Festival, held at Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine, and the cherry blossom-filled Oedo Fukagawa Sakura Festival. The famous Tokyo dish fukagawa-meshi (clam rice) was also born in this neighbourhood and is a must-try if you’re in the area.

DON’T MISS

The street leading up to Fukagawa Fudo-do Temple is worth a stroll. Lined with time-worn shops, cafés and restaurants, it almost feels as if you’re walking down a street in Kyoto rather than Tokyo. A short walk away you’ll find Fukagawajuku, a restaurant specialising in this neighbourhood’s famous seafood dish.

à Fukagawajuku Tomioka Hachiman branch. 1-23-11 Tomioka, Koto (Monzen-Nakacho Station). 03 5646 8678. tinyurl.com/TOTfukagawajuku. 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm, Sat & Sun 11am-5pm, closed Mon.

5 Ningyocho

Situated within the central business district of Nihonbashi, Ningyocho translates to ‘doll town’ – it was once known for its many craftsmen that specialised in creating handmade dolls and puppets. As many theatres were destroyed towards the end of the Edo period (1603-1868), most of these craftsmen moved to Asakusa, but the area has kept its name. Today, you’ll find a mix of longstanding restaurants, sweet shops and traditional craft stores that still give off that shitamachi vibe. There are also two famous clock towers that come alive with a puppet show on the hour.

4 Iriya

Just north of the craziness around Asakusa, you’ll run into Iriya, a lowkey neighbourhood where you can still find remnants of old Tokyo. The district is home to several small temples and shrines as well as many old houses and residences that are kept in great condition, giving the area an old-world feel. While there may be no big tourist attractions, the neighbourhood hosts one of Tokyo’s unique flower festivals, the Iriya Asagao Matsuri or Morning Glory Festival, where you can marvel at thousands of colourful blooms.

DON’T MISS

Stop for a tea or coffee break at Rebon Kaisaiyu, a long-standing sento bathhouse that was converted into a heritage café. We recommend the coffee and ice cream set, a scoop of the fruitflavoured dessert paired with a fresh brew. à 2-17-11 Shitaya, Taito (Iriya Station). tinyurl.com/TOTrebon. 10am-6pm daily, closed irregularly.

DON’T MISS

Settle in for a luxurious wagyu sukiyaki meal at Ningyocho Imahan. The revered restaurant was established more than 120 years ago and offers some of the finest quality meat, which is cooked right at the table in front of you. à 2-9-12 Nihonbashi-Ningyocho, Chuo (Ningyocho Station). 03 3666 7006. tinyurl.com/TOTnimahan. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm (last orders 2pm), 5pm-10pm (9pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10pm (9pm).

Karakuri Tower

The Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine

Iriya

6 Kameido

Found in the Koto ward, Kameido is a traditional neighbourhood that’s been revived by young Tokyoites and families moving in. Its most famous landmark, Kameido Tenjin Shrine, has become a popular spot for people to pray for academic success. If you’re looking for that retro atmosphere, though, head to Kameido Katori Kachiun shopping street, where many of the buildings are still standing from the Showa era (1926-1989).

DON’T MISS

Enjoy lunch and a shopping spree at Sano Miso Kameido Main Store, one of Tokyo’s trusted purveyors of miso since 1934. Not only does it stock 70 kinds of the famed fermented soybean paste from all around Japan, you can also try it out for yourself at the shop’s eat-in area where you can order miso soup and even miso desserts. à 1-35-8 Kameido, Koto (Kameido Station). 0120 120 685. tinyurl.com/TOTsanomiso. 10am-6.30pm daily.

Things to Do

7 Tsukishima

This waterside neighbourhood on a reclaimed island on the Sumida River has seen a lot of redevelopment, but still stays loyal to its shitamachi roots, especially around Monja Street, known for its plethora of restaurants serving a popular local dish. Monjayaki is Tokyo’s answer to okonomiyaki and sees pan-fried batter served with a variety of mix-ins and toppings.

DON’T MISS

After you’ve had your fill of monjayaki, walk over to Bar Soda, a quaint little drinking den specialising in Mexican spirits including tequila and mezcal. They’ve also got some tasty bites like tacos in the unlikely event you’ve still got room. n à 1-16-8 Tsukishima, Chuo. 03 5534 9236 instagram.com/soda_tsukishima. 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-12midnight.

Monja Street, Tsukishima

Kameido Tenjin Shrine

Art & Culture

Cool sights

Your guide to the best Tokyo art exhibitions to see this winter. By Darren Gore

POKÉMON X KOGEI

AN EMBODIMENT OF MODERN Japanese pop culture meets the traditional crafts in this unabashedly fun exhibition. In roughly 80 works, all created for this event, of 20 artisans imagine what might result from an encounter between the creatures of the Pokémon universe, and the time-honoured craft that they have chosen to master. Following a highly popular run at the National Crafts Museum in Ishikawa, and a tour of the USA, the exhibition finally arrives in Tokyo, with a few bonus works courtesy of Azabudai Hills Gallery. Standout creations include a sculpture of Jolteon, a quadrupedal with spiny yellow fur, stunningly rendered in copper plated with gold and silver by Taiichiro Yoshida. Large, amphibian-like Pokémon Venusaur, meanwhile, is given form as a painted ceramic by Sadamasa Imai. A whole host of limited-edition merchandise based on the exhibits will be on sale for collectors and souvenir-hunters alike . à Azabudai Hills Gallery, Nov 1-Feb 2. Azabudai Hills Garden Plaza A, 5-8-1 Toranomon, Minato. 03 6402 5460. 10am-7pm (Fri, Sat, days preceding hols until 8pm), closed Dec 31.

Special Exhibition: The Japanese Art of Happiness –From Itō Jakuchū to Yokoyama Taikan and Kawabata Ryūshi

SINCE TIME IMMEMORIAL , cultures across the globe have shared a common desire: the simple wish for happiness and good fortune for themselves and their loved ones. This exhibition explores centuries of Japanese art expressing this wish, and is perfectly timed to span the New Year holiday, when such thoughts are foremost in our minds.

Some 60 works are on show, each conveying the wishes of the Japanese people for longevity, fertility, prosperity and other blessings. Evident in many of these, such as a 1952 painting of a snow-capped Mt Fuji by Yokoyama Taikan (1868-1958), are elements of the natural and animal worlds that today continue to symbolise good luck. Another example of this comes from revered painter Itō Jakuchū (1716-1800), in the form of cranes rendered in ink on paper. Each of the assembled works has been selected for its ability to inspire joy in the viewer.

à Yamatane Museum of Art, Dec 14-Feb 24. 3-12-36 Hiroo, Shibuya. 050 5541 8600. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (except Jan 13, Feb 24); Dec 29-Jan 2; Jan 14.

MORE SHOWS TO SEE

Ryuichi Sakamoto: seeing sound, hearing time

RYUICHI SAKAMOTO, WHO PASSED AWAY in 2023 aged 71, was one of Japan’s most globally influential musicians and composers. He also had a talent for creating multimedia art, and became a prominent social activist, concerned with pacifism and environmental issues.

For much of the past two decades, Sakamoto focused upon three-dimensional sound installations, and these comprise the bulk of this show. A series of these immersive large-scale works unfolds around the MOT’s vast exhibition spaces to mesmerising effect. The outdoor ‘Sunken Terrace’, for example, plays host to a literal ‘fog sculpture’ titled ‘Life-Well Tokyo’, produced in collaboration with artists Shiro Takatani, of Dumb Type, and Fujiko Nakaya. Inside several works draw upon the music that Sakamoto created for his 2017 album ‘async’, a recording that pursued asynchronicity in a bid to create entirely ‘untraditional’ music. Indoors and out, together these pieces form a poignant tribute to a much-missed member of the creative community.

à Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, Dec 21-Mar 30. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 050 5541 8600. 10am-6pm, closed Mon (except Jan 13 & Feb 24); Dec 28-Jan 1; Jan 14; Feb 25.

Kei Imazu: Tanah Air

THE WORK OF KEI IMAZU , a Japanese-born artist now based in Indonesia, explores how technological innovations have the power to influence human perception. Now, with Imazu increasingly gaining global attention, Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery presents her first major solo exhibition.

Tactile, ‘traditional’ artistic tools and materials meet digital imaging tech in Imazu’s

experimental approaches. Images sourced from a diversity of media are digitally sampled and processed, before being combined on canvas with oil painting. Elements from history and mythology, including those of her adopted Indonesia, join present-day concerns such as environmental issues and ecofeminism to form large-scale, analogue-digital collages that are truly of their time.

à Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Jan 11-Mar 23. 3-20-2 3F, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 050 5541 8600. 11am-7pm, closed Mon (open hols, then closed following day); Feb 9.

Machine Love CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGIES such as AI and the merging of virtual and real worlds are reshaping our planet at an everfaster pace. A wider look back at human history, meanwhile, reveals that art and technology have always progressed in parallel: computer art, where the two spheres become truly enmeshed with each other, is the latest example of this.

This boldly future-facing exhibition presents a selection of contemporary art whose creators have utilised AI, VR and game engines, as well as works produced entirely by generative AI. Together, these diverse exhibits explore radical new aesthetics, and revolutionary approaches to image-making.

Among works that alternate between digital and real space, highlights include enchanting video works by Japan’s Asako Fujikura, in which she uses 3D graphic rendering to create virtual cities where industrial materials move around as if alive. Beeple, meanwhile, an alias of US artist, designer and animator Mike Winkelmann, presents ‘Human One’ (2021).

This kinetic video sculpture is intended to represent the first ‘human’ born within the metaverse, as they travel through a changing digital landscape.

à Mori Art Museum, Feb 13-Jun 8. Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 050 5541 8600. 10am-10pm (Tue 10am-5pm).

Joan Miró SPANISH-BORN JOAN MIRÓ (1893-1983) has long been considered one of the most important artists of the twentieth century; revered for his poetic transformation of nature-derived shapes such as the moon and stars into abstract symbols. In this major retrospective, the various phases of Miró’s career are presented together in Japan for the first time. Overseen by the Fundació Joan Miró, based in the artist’s birthplace of Barcelona, this exhibition sees masterpieces held in collections across the world brought to Tokyo, to form a comprehensive overview of an artistic practice that encompassed painting, ceramics, sculpture and more.

Post-impressionistic early works, such as a 1919 self-portrait, give way to a resolutely surrealist approach as Miró becomes involved in the artistic current then sweeping Paris, where he spent much of the 1920s and ’30s. The subsequent three decades then see the artist develop and hone the singular style with

which he is most associated, exemplified here by exhibition highlight ‘The Morning Star’ (1940) and other selections from his ‘Constellations’ series. Finally, the show highlights how, even in his final years, Miró continued his lifelong search for new modes of expression.

à Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Mar 1-Jul 6. 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 050 5541 8600. 9.30am-5.30pm (Fri 9.30am-8pm), closed Mon (except Apr 28, May 5); May 7.

Hilma af Klint: The Beyond SWEDISH-BORN ARTIST Hilma af Klint (1862-1944) was a pioneer of abstract painting, whose work prefigured that of such revered figures as Piet Mondrian and Wassily Kandinsky. Yet, for decades, her work was known only to a handful of people The 21st century, however, has seen Klint receive some long overdue global recognition. A 2018 retrospective at New York’s Guggenheim Museum attracted the largest visitor numbers in that venue’s history, and now the prestigious National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo presents her first career overview to be held in Asia.

The exhibition centres upon selections from ‘The Paintings for the Temple’, a series which Klint, who was involved in the thenbooming spiritualist movement, produced between 1906 and 1915 after believing the project to have been ‘commissioned’ from another dimension during a seance. The artist perceived these works, which combine abstract and figurative elements, and organic and geometric forms, to have been created ‘through’ her by some external spiritual force. n

à The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, Mar 4-Jun 15. 3-1 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda. 050 5541 8600. 10am-5pm (Fri & Sat 10am-8pm).

Kei Imazu: Tanah Air

Art & Culture

Cool sights

Your guide to the best Tokyo art exhibitions to see this winter. By Darren Gore

POKÉMON X KOGEI

Special Exhibition: The Japanese Art of Happiness –From Itō Jakuchū to Yokoyama Taikan and Kawabata Ryūshi

à Yamatane Museum of Art, Dec 14-Feb 24. 3-12-36 Hiroo, Shibuya. 050 5541 8600. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (except Jan 13, Feb 24); Dec 29-Jan 2; Jan 14.

MORE SHOWS TO SEE

Ryuichi Sakamoto: seeing sound, hearing time

à Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, Dec 21-Mar 30. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 050 5541 8600. 10am-6pm, closed Mon (except Jan 13 & Feb 24); Dec 28-Jan 1; Jan 14; Feb 25.

Kei Imazu: Tanah Air

Tactile, ‘traditional’ artistic tools and materials meet digital imaging tech in Imazu’s

à Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Jan 11-Mar 23. 3-20-2 3F, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 050 5541 8600. 11am-7pm, closed Mon (open hols, then closed following day); Feb 9.

This kinetic video sculpture is intended to represent the first ‘human’ born within the metaverse, as they travel through a changing digital landscape.

à Mori Art Museum, Feb 13-Jun 8. Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 050 5541 8600. 10am-10pm (Tue 10am-5pm).

à Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Mar 1-Jul 6. 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 050 5541 8600. 9.30am-5.30pm (Fri 9.30am-8pm), closed Mon (except Apr 28, May 5); May 7.

à The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, Mar 4-Jun 15. 3-1 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda. 050 5541 8600. 10am-5pm (Fri & Sat 10am-8pm).

Kei Imazu: Tanah Air

Music & Nightlife

We’ll drink to that

It’s been quite the year for aficionados of vino, tipples, apéritifs and nightcaps. Here are some of the most exciting new bars that opened in Tokyo in 2024. By Time Out Tokyo

Draft

DON’T BE FOOLED BY THE NAME: this stylish new bar in Ebisu isn’t dedicated to beer, but rather to cocktails made with premium shochu. Draft’s timely opening coincides with the spirit’s growing popularity globally and its intention is to redefine perceptions of the drink and how it can be used. This is ably achieved by a lineup of around eight shochu cocktails, some of which are on tap, the innovation that inspired the bar’s name.

Highlights include the Japanese black tea and cream cheese cocktail, with hints of raspberries and Earl Grey with a cheese-y foam, and the spicy palo santo sour, which blends the toasty aroma of barley shochu with chai syrup and is served with a burning piece of wood. The food menu, meanwhile, comprises dishes that pair well with shochu, including oyster yakisoba.

à Ebisu Asahiya Bldg 4F, 1-4-2 Ebisuminami, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6452 4900. tinyurl.com/TOTdrafte. 5pm-2am daily.

The SG Tavern WORLD-RENOWNED JAPANESE BARTENDER Shingo Gokan is steadily building a global cocktail empire, from Speak Low in Shanghai to Sip & Guzzle in New York, but that’s not to say he’s slowing down business in Tokyo. His latest watering hole in the financial district of Marunouchi sees him collaborate with Yoshihiro Narisawa, whose namesake restaurant is consistently featured on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Like Gokan’s The SG Club, which draws its inspiration from the first Japanese diplomatic

mission to the US in 1860, The SG Tavern is inspired by a historical cultural exchange. This time the focus is on 19 young samurai who broke Japan’s isolationist policies in 1865 to study in the UK.

The SG Tavern’s menu retraces their journey. Drinks include highballs that reflect the ports these students docked at, to be paired with Narisawa’s iteration of classic comfort food like tuna caviar sushi rice, and, representing their destination, fish and chips.

à Marunouchi Eiraku Bldg, 1-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station). 03 6259 1886. tinyurl.com/TOTsgt. 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm daily.

The SG Tavern

ST LOUIS BAR BY KEI

KEI KOBAYASHI IS ARGUABLY the most prolific Japanese chef around. Famed for being the first Asian cook to be awarded three Michelin stars for a restaurant in France, he has been extending his presence back home this year with a string of new openings. One of which is this handsome bar in Ginza, created in collaboration with Saint-Louis, the oldest crystal glass manufacturer in France. With a contemporary Japanese aesthetic featuring dark walls, low mood lighting and a double bar, St Louis Bar by Kei is pristine and sophisticated, the kind of place you go to for intimate conversations. The menu is extensive to say the least, with a long list of classic and signature cocktails as well as an impressive array of domestic whiskies. If you’re looking to splurge, you can get the super-rare 25-year Yamazaki single malt for an eye-watering ¥40,000 a glass. The bar’s literal high point is the hidden outdoor terrace and rooftop space. Here you’ll find seating arranged around a small but tranquil Japanese-style gardens and a breathtaking view of Ginza’s shimmering skyline from the rooftop. à Toraya Ginza Bldg 12F, 7-8-17 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 6274 6612. maisonkei.jp/st-louisbar. 5.30pm-11.30pm (last orders 11pm), closed Sun & Mon.

Punch Room Tokyo

BARS IN GINZA tend to lean towards the genteel: small and cosy spaces serving mostly classic cocktails, where patrons speak in whispery tones. Which is why Punch Room Tokyo, set in the mezzanine lobby of the Tokyo Edition, Ginza hotel, is such a refreshingly informal addition to the district’s drinking scene.

This is a spacious and elegantly posh place, with dark walnutcoffered walls and ceilings reminiscent of a gentlemen’s club. The vibe, however, is relaxed and vibrant, with lots of plush chairs and couches to lounge around in, a rare find in Ginza.

As its name suggests, the bar’s menu revolves around the punch cocktail, but reimagined with Japanese spirits and flavours, and served in beautifully crafted bowls for sharing. The immensely enjoyable Big Red Dot, for instance, is made with Akadama sweet port wine, Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky, awamori (a white spirit from Okinawa distilled from rice), mango and coconut tea. à2-8-13 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 6228 7400. editionhotels.com/tokyo-ginza. Tue-Thu, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am, closed Sun & Mon.

Nanzuka Taken

ACCLAIMED GALLERY NANZUKA UNDERGROUND is changing the way we experience art, from their exhibition space-meetssushi restaurant 3110NZ by LDH Kitchen, to their latest art bar Nanzuka Taken.

Tucked away on the second floor of the new commercial complex Shibuya Axsh, the stylish space was designed by Snark Inc who also created Nanzuka’s flagship gallery as well as with art direction by Nanzuka’s own Shinji Nanzuka. Artist Tetsuya Nakamura, known for his contemporary sculptures, crafted all the furniture for the bar, including the sofas, bar counters, chairs and even the doorknobs.

You’ll of course be able to enjoy a host of artworks here, including the bar’s centrepiece – a standing table incorporating one of Hajime Sorayama’s signature sexy robots. Sorayama’s futuristic works are also displayed on the monitors around the bar and are accompanied by exhibits from some fantastic contemporary artists including Daniel Arsham and Hiroki Tsukuda.

As for drinks, you can enjoy a range of cocktails made in collaboration by chef Natsuko Shoji of local French eatery Été and the late Japanese pop artist Keiichi Tanaami, and choose from a wide-ranging selection of wines and whiskies. n

à Shibuya Axsh 2F, 2-17-1 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6712 6155. tinyurl.com/ TOTntaken. 5pm-12midnight, closed Sun & hols.

St Louis Bar by Kei

Punch Room Tokyo

Nanzuka Taken

Travel & Hotels

A new awakening

Fukui’s old port town Mikuni Minato is on the rise, thanks to a new hotel that converts its heritage buildings into luxurious accommodation.

By Lim Chee Wah

AT A TIME WHEN JAPAN is grappling with the problem of overtourism, venturing off the beaten path can reveal rewarding gems. Rest assured, you won’t miss out; the country’s rich tapestry of culture, history and tradition means even the quietest towns hold hidden charms.

Nestled against the Kuzuryu River in northern Fukui prefecture, Mikuni Minato may seem like a sleepy little place that time has forgotten. However, its storied past as one of Japan’s most prosperous port towns makes it a fascinating destination for those interested in history.

For more than a century until the Meiji era (1868-1912), Mikuni Minato thrived as a bustling port for cargo ships trading along the Sea of Japan from presentday Hokkaido to Osaka. The town’s prosperity was reflected

in its vibrant townscape, with buildings constructed from fine wood and beautiful shakudani stone that showcased the region’s rich materials and craftsmanship.

One distinctive architectural style that emerged during this golden era was the Kaguradate. These merchants’ houses are unusually long, featuring a gabled-roof facade, a living space with a garden at the centre and a warehouse space for storage.

Many of the old houses in Mikuni Minato have been faithfully preserved, especially along the town’s main avenue, Kitamae. One notable site is the old Kishina family residence, which you can visit for an intriguing glimpse into the affluent lifestyle of merchant families.

Since early 2024, the old town hasn’t merely been a museum; you can actually stay in these

Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato

heritage houses. Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato comprises nine restored traditional buildings converted into guest lodgings. The new hotel retained the original facades and structural integrity of the buildings. All accommodations include kitchens while the larger units offer separate living and sleeping areas for up to four guests. Some even feature deep-soak bathtubs with views of serene Japanese gardens.

Stay and help

At Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato, you can immerse yourself in the town’s culture and get a feeling for local life. More importantly, the hotel helps revitalise the local community, giving the town a new injection of life and the chance to preserve its tangible heritage.

With the sumptuous accommodation, you might be compelled to just stay indoors and relax, but there’s plenty to explore. A short walk away is the atmospheric Takidanji, a Buddhist temple dating back to 1375. The approach, flanked by tall, shady camellia trees, is breathtaking. Beyond the entrance, you’ll discover several prayer halls designated as National Important Cultural Properties, as well as a tranquil Japanese garden.

Another highlight is the Old Morita Bank Main Office, a distinctive building that exemplifies Western European architecture. Once owned by the Morita family, Mikuni Minato’s most influential merchant household, the building tells a story of their strategic shift from maritime commerce to banking.

You can also explore Mikuni Minato’s historic geisha quarter, Demura, and browse vintage crafts – including the region’s remarkable treasure chests that are emblematic of its maritime heritage – at Kondo Antiques. Additionally, consider a short trip to the dramatic Tojinbo sea cliffs for jaw-dropping coastal views.

FURTHER AFIELD

THE PERFECT DAY TRIP FROM MIKUNI MINATO

Rent a car when travelling to Mikuni Minato, so you can take a scenic road trip through verdant countryside to these remarkable attractions.

EIHEIJI TEMPLE

One of the restored buildings in Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato’s collection is home to a French fine dining restaurant, led by renowned chef Yoshino Tateru, who has overseen several Michelinstarred establishments in Japan and France. In one of the dining rooms, you can admire the former warehouse’s exquisite woodwork, with exposed beams and ceiling showcasing the region’s celebrated carpentry. The multicourse dinner, with optional wine pairing, features local and seasonal specialities including Echizen crab, Fukui pork and Wakasa beef, all plated to resemble abstract art, the chef’s personal passion.

If possible, plan your visit around the Mikuni Festival, held annually from May 19 to May 21. This spectacular event features a parade of floats showcasing legends and figures from history, each measuring 6.5 metres tall. A testament to the town’s prosperous past, this remarkable celebration offers a stunning sight that deserves more attention.

With the recent extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen connecting Tokyo to Fukui in around three hours (with a stop at Awara Onsen, from which the hotel provides free pick-up service), this region may soon see an influx of tourists. Consider this your invitation to visit Mikuni Minato while it remains an undiscovered gem. n

Auberge Homachi

Mikuniminato, 3-4-39 Minamihonmachi, Mikuni, Sakai, Fukui. 0776 82 0070. en.homachi.jp.

This temple complex belongs to the Soto sect of Japanese Zen Buddhism and functions as an active monastery. Nestled at the cedarcovered foothills of a mountain on the outskirts of Fukui City, the sprawling grounds house over 70 structures arranged around seven main temple buildings.

HEISENJI HAKUSAN SHRINE

With a history dating back to 717, this enchanting moss-covered shrine once served as a base for pilgrimages to the sacred Mt. Hakusan. Today, its lush grounds offer a serene slice of paradise, where prayer halls rest beneath the shadows of tall cedar trees.

FUKUI PREFECTURAL DINOSAUR MUSEUM

One of the best dinosaur museums in the world, this impressive museum also serves as the centre of Japan’s palaeontological research. It features an extensive collection of dinosaur skeletons and fossils, including the prefecture’s own Fukuiraptor kitadaniensis and Fukuisaurus tetoriensis, both excavated nearby.

Tateru Yoshino Mikuniminato

Heisenji Hakusan Shrine

Old Morita Bank Main Office

A traditional townhouse

Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai

What we know so far about Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai

Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan is less than a year away. Here’s what you can expect at the momentous event, plus how to get tickets. By Kaila Imada

OSAKA WILL MAKE HISTORY in 2025 as the first Japanese city to host the World Expo twice. It last staged the event in 1970, which holds the record as the best-attended Expo of the 20th century. With big plans in place, the Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai is sure to be just as memorable. World Expos have been taking place since 1851 and now occur every five years for up to six months at a time. These largescale events bring together innovations from around the world and are often the first places to showcase new technology. Over the years, the likes of elevators, electric cars and AED devices have been unveiled at Expos. You can discover the innovations and culture of each participating

country at its own pavilion during the event.

Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai is Osaka’s second and Japan’s third World Expo, following the Aichi Expo in 2005. It takes place from April 13 to October 13 2025 on the manmade island of Yumeshima in Osaka Bay.

World-renowned architect Sou Fujimoto is in charge of bringing the Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai site to life with a stunning design. Fujimoto plans to include plenty of nature by incorporating green spaces throughout the site as well as ample seating and rest areas, similar to the design from the Expo 2020 Dubai. As a showpiece, the venue will feature an enormous ring-shaped roof that’s 20 metres tall and has a

circumference of 2km. Visitors can walk along, inside as well as on top of this structure, which affords breathtaking views of the Osaka Bay.

Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai theme

Expo 2025 will revolve around the theme ‘Designing Future Society for Our Lives’. This statement is intended to make us think about how we want to live our lives and at the same time, maximise our potential. The theme also aims to inspire collaborations among the international community in designing a more sustainable society that supports diverse needs and wants.

This main theme is further divided into three sub-themes:

Time Out Tokyo is the official PR supplier for Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai

An artist’s impression of the Expo site

Architect Sou Fujimoto is behind the design of the site

‘Saving Lives’, ‘Empowering Lives’ and ‘Connecting Lives’. These three concepts will be showcased through various Expo projects including exhibitions, events and field experiments.

Meet the mascot, Myaku-Myaku

A key component of Expo 2025 is its eye-catching mascot. Myaku-Myaku shapeshifting water-like creature created by graphic designer and illustrator Kohei Yamashita. Since Osaka is known as Japan’s city of water, the mascot is presented

as a shapeshifter that can take on many forms, just like water. The name ‘Myaku-Myaku’ is also meaningful, as it conveys something being passed down through generations, like how the 1970 Expo has influenced the 2025 event.

Participating countries and companies

Expo 2025 is set to feature a total of and regions as well as nine international organisations. Some of the countries and regions

Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai

Ticketing information

Tickets for Expo 2025 are now available online. Here’s a breakdown of the ticket categories:

à Advance one-day ticket for the opening of the Expo (entry from April 13-26)

¥4,000, junior (12-17 years old) ¥2,200, child (4-11 years old) ¥1,000

à Advance one-day ticket for the first half of the Expo period (from April 13-July 18)

¥5,000, junior ¥3,000, child ¥1,200

à One-day super early bird ticket (can be used any time during the Expo period)

¥6,000, junior ¥3,500, child ¥1,500

à One-day early bird ticket (can be used any time during the Expo period)

¥6,700, junior ¥3,700, child ¥1,700

à Multiple-entry season pass (can be used from April 26 to October 3, entry after 11am) ¥30,000, junior ¥17,000, child ¥7,000

à Multiple-entry summer pass (can be used from July 19 to August 31, entry after 11am) ¥12,000, junior ¥7,000, child ¥3,000

that have confirmed their participation include Australia, Botswana, Brazil, Canada, China, Denmark, Iceland, India, Nepal, Peru, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Switzerland, Thailand, United Arab Emirates, the United Kingdom, the United States and Zimbabwe with many set to announce their plans soon. International organisations that will be present at next year’s Expo include the African Union Commission, Asean Secretariat, European Union, The International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement, International Solar Alliance, International Science and Technology Center, ITER, Pacific Islands Forum Secretariat, and the United Nations. n

à Special ticket (for those with a disability certificate) ¥3,700, junior ¥2,000, child ¥1,000

à T ickets available during the Expo period One-day ticket ¥7,500, junior ¥4,200, child ¥1,800

à Weekday ticket (entry from 11am) ¥6,000, junior ¥3,500, child ¥1,500

à Night ticket (entry from 5pm) ¥3,700, junior ¥2,000, child ¥1,000

You know you’re

Ginkgo leaf-shaped Icho-mamori from Akasaka Hikawa Shrine

Within the lush grounds of Akasaka Hikawa Shrine stands a 400-year-old ginkgo tree that has watched over the shrine for centuries, surviving wars and natural disasters. To commemorate this most stoic of trees Asakasa Hikawa-jinja created these cute ginkgo-shaped amulets to bless their owners with safety and vitality. ¥800 à 6-10-12 Akasaka, Minato (Akasaka, Roppongi, Roppongi-Itchome, Tameike-Sanno stations). akasakahikawa.or.jp. 6am-5.30pm daily; shop opens 9am-5pm.

Kanda Myojin Shrine

...the charms are charming

By Shota Nagao

MONEY MAY NOT BE ABLE to buy you happiness, but in Tokyo at least, it could buy you some good luck. Sold at almost any shrine and temple across Japan, the ubiquitous omamori amulets are said to do everything from protect you from harm to get you into a good school, they can even help you find love or save a troubled marriage. Whether or not these claims can be substantiated, the charms at least make cute and unique mementos from Tokyo.

Panda and Little Racoon omamori from Ueno Toshogu Shrine

Giant pandas have become the de facto symbol of Ueno and the Ueno Toshogu shrine is getting in on the action. Its adorable amulets feature the creatures’ features and make irresistible souvenirs, especially after visiting the resident pandas at the adjacent Ueno Zoo. Continuing the monochrome theme, racoon amulets are also available and worth stashing in your child’s school backpack as they are said to bring academic success. ¥800 à 9-88 Ueno Koen,Taito (Ueno Station). uenotoshogu.com. Oct-Feb 9am-4.30pm, Mar-Sep 9am-5.30pm.

Known for his laidback vibes, anthropomorphised teddy bear Rilakkuma is one of Japan’s most popular characters, especially among those who need the odd reminder to relax and wind down from time to time. If that sounds like you, head over to Kanda Myojin Shrine near Akihabara where you can find lucky charms in his likeness, which are thought to bring good luck and health to its owner. ¥1,000 à 2-16-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda (Ochanomizu, Shin-Ochanomizu, Suehirocho, Akihabara stations). kandamyoujin.or.jp.

IT omamori from Kanda Myojin Shrine

Located just a short hop away from the tech mecca of Akihabara, Kanda Myojin Shrine offers one of the most unusual charms in Tokyo. This black and gold amulet is made to look like a semiconductor chip which is supposed to help protect your sensitive digital data from pesky hackers and harmful leaks. While there’s no actual technical security

Kamimusubi Hand Bracelet omamori from Asagaya Shinmeiguu Shrine

Want to combine fashion with good fortune? Consider your wish granted with these cute bracelet-style amulets from Asagaya Shinmeigu Shrine. These wearable charms come in 12 stylish colours ranging from coral red to wisteria purple. Check the shrine’s website for additional limitededition and seasonal designs. ¥1,200 à 1-25-5 Asagayakita, Suginami (Asagaya Station). shinmeiguu.com. Nov-Mar 6am-5pm, Apr-May 5.30am-5.30pm, Jun-Sep 5am-5.30pm, Oct 5.30am-5pm; shop opens 9am-5pm. n