Kauai Traveler by Traveler Media

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

U KA A’I TRAVELER LER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I

myhawaiitraveler.com

Treat ! f l e s r u Yo

FALLS OF WONDER

YOUR GUIDE TO THE MUST-SEE GUSHERS

LEGENDARY ROOTS

CAPTIVATING STORIES BEHIND NATIVE FLORA

HAWAIIAN HEALING

A SPA EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER

St. Regis

Princeville, Kauai Located in the Lobby on the 9th Floor

9:30am - 9:00PM daily

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LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW

8/7/18 3:52 PM

Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 Kukuiula Shopping Village (808) 742-2828

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Tours of

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CONTENTS 2

24 WELCOME TO KAUA‘I

62 LEGENDARY ROOTS

50 SOUTH SHORE

70 GO NORTH

68 NORTH SHORE

82 WHAT WE LOVE NOW

Paradise found

The sun-drenched coast from Po‘ipū to Polihale The majestic and magical wonder of nature

98 EAST SIDE

The Royal Coconut Coast

30 FALLS OF WONDER

Your guide to the must-see gushers

36 TIE THE KNOW WITH ALOHA

Captivating stories behind native flora Shop, dine and play in Kīlauea, Princeville and Hanalei Trending culinary experiences

84 CULIINARY Q&A

Executive Chef Hubert Des Marais

88 THE HOT SPOT Al Pastor Tacos

90 GO BOLD

Soulful wines for the season

Simple, unforgettable ways to add Hawaiian wedding traditions to your big day

94 LOCAL COMFORT FOOD A satisfying cultural experience

46 HAWAIIAN HEALING

RKL Ranch raises the bar for better beef

A spa experience like no other

100 COWS IN PARADISE

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

UNDERSTANDING PIDGIN, LESSON 49

Broke da Mouth /brōk dah mowt/: Extremely delicious to the taste.

"Dis Potagee Paella broke da mouth, Unko Roy!"

"Plantation Paella"

Tiger Shrimp, Clams, Chicken, Portuguese Sausage

Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawaii’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawaii, called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and fishermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine.

Located at The Shops at Kukui‘ula | Reservations (808) 742-5000 or visit eatinghouse1849.com

CONTENTS

U KA A’I TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I

Publisher

Kevin Geiger

Editor in Chief Mun Sok Geiger

Contributors

SHOP | 40

Coco Zickos Krystal Kakimoto Brooke Rehmann Mary Troy Johnston Ian McGuire

GOLF | 52

Copy Editor Joseph Kwak

Cover Image Ian McGuire

myhawaiitraveler.com www.traveler.media

ADVENTURE | 54

FOOD + DRINK | 76

Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 info@traveler-media.com

Copyright©2018 Traveler Media Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

BEACHES | 102 4

EVENTS | 110

PRINTED IN THE USA KAUA‘I TRAVELER

U · K

KUI‘U

LA PRESEN

guide You were still unpacking when your girls found their way to Robert at Huaka‘i Outfitters. The next thing you knew, the sea spray was drenching your skin as Kukui‘ula’s 32-foot Mahealani sped out of the harbor. The story continues at kukuiula.com/theguide

ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE Who hasn’t fanaticized about swimming in a secluded pool beneath a tranquil waterfall with a love interest? It seems so dreamy. It’s hard to forget the steamy scenes from Blue Lagoon and Cocktail. When I was younger, my older sisters made me cover my eyes whenever any movie got too racy, which made me want to see what was happening that much more. As a teenager, my friends and I would excitedly talk about boys we liked at school and wondered when and where we would experience our first kiss, and if it was going to be as magical as they made it look like in the movies. It was for my friend Josh, who was born and raised here. His first kiss was beneath a waterfall. As we were heading to the North Shore together, he pointed to Kalihiwai Falls as we passed it on Kühiö Highway and very nonchalantly tells my husband and me the story like everyone’s first kiss was out of a romantic movie. On the contrary, my first kiss was on a dare in eighth grade in front of a group of friends in Oklahoma—memorable, but light years away from what I had imagined. Today, if you want to swim in the beautiful Kalihiwai Falls, which is on private land, you can do so with Princeville Ranch for an unforgettable adventure. Of course you can go on your own and experience all kinds of mesmerizing waterfalls from the famous gushers to the hidden gems (Falls of Wonder, p. 30). 6

It’s hard to be on Kauaÿi and not be in love (or at least not be reminded of it). Everywhere you look, you see public displays of affection from honeymooners to soon-to-be married couples. If you are planning your nuptials, consider adding some Hawaiian wedding traditions to make your ceremony extra special. Whether you are getting married here or on the mainland, you can easily incorporate special island touches like wearing a lei or having the kahuna pule (minister) blow a conch shell to make your big day even more memorable (Tie the Knot with Aloha, p. 36). There are many exceptional destinations in the world, but what makes Kauaÿi so extraordinary is the people and culture along with the unique flora and fauna found here. I really enjoy hearing the Hawaiian myths behind the places, animals, and plants (Legendary Roots, p. 62). The stories are so fascinating! It makes everything I see more meaningful knowing the backstory and its place in Hawaiian history and culture. So the next time you see a striking lehua blossom or the delicate half flowers on a naupaka, think about the love stories behind the flowers to truly behold their beauty. Warmest aloha, Mun Sok Geiger Editor in Chief KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

NIGHT SHIFT

The Menehune is known in Hawaiian legends as the mischievous and playful inhabitants of Hawaiÿi’s forests. These nocturnal creatures sleep in caves and are described as standing around two feet in height with distended bellies and muscular builds. Stories of the Menehune are told to children throughout Hawaiÿi and the sharing of Menehunes’ humorous adventures are a fond memory for many locals. Menehune are known to enjoy dancing, singing, and cliff diving, but life is not all fun and games for the Menehune—they are known to be extremely intelligent and industrious craftspeople. The Menehune are credited for building many structures in Hawaiÿi in a single night such as Kïkïaola (Menehune Ditch), which is an irrigation ditch located near Waimea and the Menehune Fishpond (ÿAlekoko Fishpond) near Lïhuÿe. Both are significant in Hawaiian mythology and to the people of Kauaÿi and have been listed in the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. It is believed that if the Menehune couldn’t finish the job whether building roads, ditches, or temples in a single night, the work was left unfinished.

sss

LOCAL LINGO

GOATS GONE WILD

Ever find yourself driving around the island and see a strange creature hanging out on the side of the road or on top of a huge boulder? It’s likely that animal you saw was a feral goat, one of the few invasive mammals that have adapted well to their new tropical habitat. First brought to the island by Captains Cook and Vancouver in the late 18th century, these wild goats have made their homes roaming the harsh terrain, as well as steep mountain slopes. You may even see a few goats tied up in yards around the island, as they make for a great eco-friendly lawn mower. Because they prefer a drier environment, feral goats are usually sighted in Waimea Canyon or while hiking the Kalalau Trail where you may even come across some hunters while you are hiking the area. Goats munch on weeds as well as native, indigenous plants, making them more pest than pet. However, goats are utilized for more than just their lawn munching power—local cuisines such as Filipino food, often incorporate goat into their dishes, such as goat stews, goat adobo, and goat is surprisingly delicious in Korean-Mexican fusion tacos. And, Kauai Kunana Dairy uses goat’s milk to create a variety of creamy, tangy, and delicious chèvre cheeses as well as feta that are produced right here on island. Even though some locals consider these animals a pest, they are still cool to see in the wild. 8

Anyone who grew up in the 70s watching The Partridge Family or who was immersed in surf culture is familiar with the ubiquitous puka shell necklace. The puka shell is bead-like in shape, small and white, and is quintessential in jewelry like bracelets and necklaces that adorn all the resident slackers in your life. The first time you hear the word “puka” out here in Hawaiÿi, you may be reminded of this jewelry and this shell, but it’s more likely that the speaker was using the word to say something different: a hole. Named after the hole present in each puka shell, locals use this word in lots of different ways to refer to holes. What did you trip over? A big puka in the ground. How did you get the puka in your slippahs? Though it generally refers to a naturally occurring opening like a cavernous space, you can use it to refer to any hole like a delicious Hawaiian-style hot dog from Puka Dog in Köloa, which starts with a hole in the center of their fresh-baked bun that is toasted. This is not a word that many outsiders would know, so if you are trying to sound like a local, consider this puka in your vocabulary filled.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

A RARE SIGHT Hawaiÿi has many endemic birds found nowhere else on Earth like the striking ÿapapane (Hawaiian honeycreeper) and the beloved pueo (short-eared owl), but one of the most unique is the ÿio, or Hawaiian hawk. The only hawk that is native to Hawaiÿi, this medium-sized predator grows to about 18 inches in length. It is believed that the ÿio only breeds on the Big Island, although the hawk has been seen elsewhere around the state including Kauaÿi. In ancient Hawaiian folklore, the ÿio was used to represent the aliÿi, or royalty, in legends and lores. ÿIo live and hunt alone, mating one time a year and generally hatch one egg at a time. This bird of prey feeds on smaller animals, such as rodents, insects, and small birds. For those on the lookout, ÿio have two color phases: one dark, with a brown head, breast, and underwings; and a light phase with a dark head and lighter breast and underwings. If you are out on a hike and hear a high-pitched shrill, look up and see if you can catch a glimpse of this rare, endangered species found nowhere else on Earth.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

GARDEN VARIETY Whether it’s in a beautiful bouquet or in a well-manicured garden, heliconias are some of the most recognizably tropical plants you’ll encounter. Ranging in size from a towering 15 feet to the more humble knee-high height, each heliconia’s dramatic and exotic appearance is a lovely sight to behold. Originally from the Central America region, heliconias love wet and tropical climates, making Hawaiÿi an ideal place to take root. In Central America, hummingbirds pollinate the plant; however, because we do not have hummingbirds in Hawaiÿi, certain insects have stepped up to do the job here. The part of the plant that many people incorrectly consider the flower come in two types, erect and pendant—where the brightly colored bracts of the inflorescence hide a smaller, and more delicate flower, similar to ginger plants. Within those two types, though, includes an almost innumerable variety of colors, forms, and shapes. The “Andromeda” variety, with its striking pink, orange, and yellow bracts with black tips that look almost like a bird’s claw, is shorter, but makes a dramatic border in a garden. Other types, such as the Heliconia rostrata variety, hang down from their towering green leaves with bright red bracts and yellow and green tips, resembling a lobster claw or parrot’s beak. Other hanging heliconia look like graceful dancers caught in action. Keep your eyes peeled for these beautiful, unexpected plants on your travels, and see how many you can count! 12

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

LOCAL VIBE

FINDING GILL One of the most easily identifiable fish to spot in our reefs is the Moorish idol. Known here as kihikihi, meaning curves or zigzags, Moorish idols stand out with their vertical black, white, and yellow stripes, and long, graceful dorsal fin, which make them instantly recognizable. They are relatively small, growing to about 9-inches in size, and tend to hang out in small groups, but can occasionally be seen within a larger school. Their habitat includes the warm tropical waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, but within the United States can only be found here in Hawaiÿi. Feeding off small invertebrates, sponges, and algae, the warm waters of Hawaiÿi provide the perfect diet. Moorish idols are notoriously hard to keep in captivity and are therefore better admired from some old-fashioned dips in the ocean with a trusty snorkel. Prepare to be transfixed the first time you see this elegant fish swimming around a reef—and if you have kids in your life and have seen Finding Nemo, you can’t help but to think about Gill.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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SHOE ENVY

Shoe Envy features stylish, comfortable resort style footwear for the whole family. A few of the many brands that we carry are Olukai, Täōs, Naot, Pikolinos, Bernie Mev and Keen. Besides shoes you will also find unique handmade vintage clutches, leather handbags and accessories. >> www.shoeenvypoipu.com

MARTIN & MACARTHUR

Genuine Koa wood watches made with self-winding automaatic movements, Koa Eternity Rings, Koa sunglasses and fine Koa jewelry made with our private stock of Big Island Koa. We feature the finest craftsmen in Hawaii with the widest selection of Koa jewelry boxes, glass sculptures, outrigger canoes, and feather lei. >> www.martinandmacarthur.com

ACCENTS

From fresh food and drinks to locally made and island inspired accessories and gifts, Accents brings you the best Hawaii has to offer.

www.shopsofhawaii.com

TORI RICHARD

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LOCAL VIBE

MY KAUA‘I NAME

JENNIFER ACOBA

OCCUPATION

MARKETING MANAGER & OWNER LIAISON / KOLOA LANDING RESORT

HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I

22 YEARS

Favorite beach: Polihale. All the way west is one of our favorite beaches for family time, camping, sunsets, shell finding, star gazing, breathtaking mountain views and clear ocean waters, especially in the summer. Favorite food: Aloha ÿÄina Poi Company’s Külolo—simply the best and freshest külolo (pudding of taro and coconut cream) in all of Hawaiÿi. A sweet treat visitors must try. Favorite drive: Through the iconic Tree Tunnel where the light skips in and out of the giant eucalyptus trees. Favorite custom/tradition: Spending New Year’s Eve with the family, lots of fireworks and fire crackers, a delicious spread of homecooked food and laughter that last until the next year! Favorite hangout: Kökeÿe in the cool, sweet aroma of mauka (mountain) air. Family picnics, games in the meadow, hiking trails, adventures around every corner, cozy cabin nights—this is our family’s favorite hangout. Favorite place to take your guests: The original Kukuiÿula Market by the yellow submarine in Poÿipü for some fresh Makai Sushi and Loco Coco Shave Ice—these two brothers deliver the best on island. Favorite place to splurge: Skintique in Lïhuÿe is a delightful little salon where you can find the best facials, skin care and sunscreens on island. This little gem also offers the greatest pedicures to ensure your toes are perfectly happily exposed in ‘rubbah slippahs’ (flip flops) with some amazing island made foot scrubs.

my local faves

POLIHALE 18

Lucky you live Hawai‘i because…the simpler things in life mean the most here. The people are genuine and kind; a variety of culture and life make every day different and special, not to mention Hawaiÿi has some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. If you were a visitor, you would want to know: Luana (enjoy yourself, relax). Enjoy this special place on earth and leave it a little better than when you found it.

MAKAI SUSHI

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WHY DON'T YOU... SCALE A GIANT.. Rising from the lush valley along the Coconut Coast is Nounou Mountain, better known as Sleeping Giant due to its unmistakable profile formed along the mountain ridge. If you want to enjoy a scenic hike that offers panoramic and coastal vistas plus find a perfect spot for a picnic lunch, then the Sleeping Giant hike definitely tops the “must-do” list while visiting Kauaÿi. Choose from three main trails (West~1.5 miles, KuamoÿoNounou~3 miles, and East~1.75 miles)— each offers unique views from different sides of the mountain.

FIND YOUR BEACH. Kauaÿi is blessed with an abundance of stunning beaches from the hidden and secluded to the easily accessed and popular. As the oldest island in the state, the Garden Isle has had ample time to shape its diverse coastline and has more beaches per mile than any other island in Hawaiÿi. Check out the “Beach Guide” (page 102) to choose one that suits you best. 20

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

RISE ABOVE. You’ve heard by now that the only way to truly get a glimpse of the Garden Isle is through the air. Much of Kauaÿi is undeveloped, thankfully, so the pristine beauty is still intact. Take a helicopter tour to see the best of the island and appreciate nature’s extraordinary masterpiece in all its glory. Call Jack Harter Helicopters (808) 245-3774 or Sunshine Helicopters (808) 245-5953 to take in the majestic views from above.

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For the ultimate tour of Kauaÿi’s unspoiled backcountry, go off-roading on an ATV through gorgeous vistas, private working ranches, hidden waterfalls, movie locales, and more. Have fun learning about the history and culture during your rugged and carefree adventure! Try Kipu Ranch Adventures (808) 2469288, Princeville Ranch (808) 826-7669 or Kauai ATV (808) 742-2734. myhawaiitraveler.com

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ALOHA

It’s no surprise that Kaua‘i typically finds itself ranked as one of the top islands in the world. There are two of many distinctions Kaua‘i holds that contribute to landing on the top of many traveler's lists. The first is that Kaua‘i is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, so Mother Nature has had plenty of time to cut deep gorges into the valleys, shape dramatic sea cliffs and sculpt the majestic Waimea Canyon into “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Another primary distinction is that Kaua‘i is also home to the rainiest spot on earth, Mount Wai‘ale‘ale (rippling water), with an average yearly rainfall of 450 inches. Situated almost in the center of the island, this 5,148 ft. tall mountain provides Kaua‘i with the nourishment it needs to earn its monicker as the Garden Isle, with lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls and verdant tropical foliage.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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ALOHA

The scenery may steal the show, but it’s the various adventures in the idyllic setting that will get your heart racing. You can navigate one of the Island’s seven rivers on a kayak, trek through the rainforest of Alaka‘i Wilderness Area, wander through multiple jade gardens, hike trails of all levels, and be rewarded with secret waterfalls and golden sand beaches. You can even sit poolside at a five-star resort, where your only exertion is choosing a tropical refreshment. Whatever your pleasure, this emerald island promises a regal vacation. In case you haven’t noticed, tall buildings don’t obscure any of the natural splendors of Kaua‘i. This is because legislation mandates that no structure built on Kaua‘i is taller than a coconut tree. How it has managed to maintain that code after all these years is a mystery, but Kaua‘i is no stranger when it comes to standing its ground. Not even the Great King Kamehameha could take it down. In fact, in an attempt to prevent further attacks on both his people and his Island, King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s last reigning king, decided to cede Kaua‘i to Kamehameha in peaceful negotiations. Now that is the original “make love not war” mentality. This peaceful mindset has been passed on through generations and is apparent in island life today. Kaua‘i has the reputation of having the friendliest residents of all the islands. Not only is the Garden Isle the most beautiful, with paradise settings often portrayed in Hollywood movies, but the feel of the island is relaxed, with a laid-back attitude that resonates in the air as much as the sweet intoxicating aroma of its plumeria. 28

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

As balmy and dreamy as Kaua‘i is, it does experience a change in seasons, so make sure that you plan your activities accordingly. Actually, the entire state experiences basically two seasons. The Hawaiians named them kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). The summer months range from May through September and those of winter from October through April. Although the seasons are usually mild, you should watch out for excessive rain in the winter. In March 2006, it rained for 40 days and 40 nights, and while nobody spotted an ark in the horizon, there was massive flooding on all of the islands. Before making the famous 11-mile trek along the Näpali Coast, make sure that the skies are clear and there is no chance of rain. The change is weather also brings a change in surf.Winter months will bring large swells to the North and West shores, and the opposite goes for summer months. Heed all warnings on the beach to ensure the safety of your family. Kaua‘i’s main vein of transportation is the predominately two-lane Kaumuali‘i Highway. Named after the king, this 82-mile stretch of highway can really get backed up, especially during rush hour. And yes, paradise does have a rush hour. About 62,000 people live on this over five million year old “Fantasy Island,” and 36,800 residents drive. So to avoid any unwanted stress in paradise, make sure to schedule your road trips around peak travel hours. Aside from this, don’t worry if you need to get from one side of the island to the other, as you could do so in about 90 minutes. So if you like the idea of visiting Waimea Canyon, but would rather stay in the quaint and convenient town of Kapa‘a, near award- winning restaurants and cool boutiques, go ahead, as the average commute time to most places is 30 minutes. Kaua‘i has 552 square miles of diverse terrain, which making it the fourth largest island in the eight-island chain. Obviously, good things come in small land mass. Once you have experienced the diversity and the beauty of each town and its attractions, you will soon agree that the Garden Isle is the best island, offering all the elements of a perfect vacation—rural enough to get away, yet a stone’s throw away from indulgence. Perfect. E komo mai. Nou ka hale (Come inside, the house is yours). myhawaiitraveler.com

FALLS OF WONDER YOUR GUIDE TO THE MUST-SEE GUSHERS WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

For generations, people in Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i have honored various waterfalls in the islands by capturing them in mele (Hawaiian chants, songs, or poems), stories, and pieces of art admiring the ability waterfalls have to seamlessly blend grace and power. Whether stopping to enjoy the view of a waterfall seen during a scenic car ride or hiking for a chance to catch a glimpse of a famous waterfall that is more hidden, there can be a sense of reverence and wonder when viewing waterfalls in person. >>>

FAMOUS WATERFALLS Wailua Falls Featured in the opening scenes of the old television series Fantasy Island, Wailua Falls provided viewers with an enchanting backdrop that set the stage for a series situated in a tropical paradise. Every week, glimpses of the 80-foot, double-tiered waterfall filled screens of televisions across the country showcasing water dramatically falling from a rugged cliff into a 30-feet deep pond ornamented by local foliage below. In ancient times, stories tell of käne (men) jumping from the top of the falls into the pond below to prove their manhood, but in modern times, jumping from Wailua Falls is illegal due to the numerous injuries and deaths it has caused. While the best views of the falls can be seen from the parking lot, two hikes take onlookers to the base of the falls and pond below. One trail begins at the parking lot, but is a steeper descent with ropes tied to trees for hikers to grasp as they slide down the hill. A second path, located about a quarter mile down the road from the parking lot, is a more manageable and enjoyable way to get to the falls although it does take a little longer to complete. If traveling North from Lïhuÿe along Highway 56, take a left onto Maÿalo Road and travel about 3 miles until reaching a small parking lot located directly off the main road. Although parking is limited, the stunning views of Wailua Falls is well worth the wait for many visitors who note the best time to visit is during early morning hours on sunny days when light bounces through the mist creating rainbows arching over the pond. Manawaiopuna Falls Captured in the 1993 blockbuster, Jurassic Park, this 400foot waterfall was located in the lush valley that greeted guests to the theme park home to cloned dinosaurs. Manawaiopuna is located in Hanapëpë on Kaua‘i’s West Side and sits on private land making it only accessible via helicopter. Many tour companies offer aerial expeditions of the island and companies who venture to Manawaiopuna will offer a bird’s-eye view often delivering information on the geological formations seen and native foliage of the area. Call Jack Harter (808) 245-3774 or Sunshine Helicopters (808) 245-5953.

EASILY ACCESSIBLE WATERFALLS ÿÖpaekaÿa Falls Translating to “rolling shrimp,” the name of ÿÖpaekaÿa Falls harkens to the rare native shrimp named öpae that were once plentiful in the streams above the falls and could be seen rolling down the waterfall as tiny flecks of pink. Today, the öpae cannot be seen, but this magnificent fall has become one of the most visited falls on the island and is one of the few falls easily seen from a main road. Located in Wailua on Kaua‘i’s East Side, ÿÖpaekaÿa Falls is a 150-foot segmented fall that resides within 32

WAILUA FALLS KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MANAWAIOPUNA FALLS

‘ŌPAEKA‘A FALLS myhawaiitraveler.com

the Wailua River State Park region. The year-round flow and ease of access makes ÿÖpaekaÿa Falls a visitor’s dream because no matter the time of day or season, a wonderful fall can be seen. To get to ÿÖpaekaÿa Falls, when travelling North from Lïhuÿe, turn left onto Kuamoÿo Road (Highway 580) and head about 1.5 miles uphill until you reach the parking lot for ÿÖpaekaÿa Falls to your right. From here, unobstructed views of the falls are offered and the spot gives visitors an additional chance to rest with picnic tables and public restrooms available. Waipoÿo Falls During the rainier portions of the year, Waipoÿo Falls delights visitors to the West Side of the island who come for a chance to view this magnificent two-tier waterfall that drops 800-feet into Waimea Canyon. There are two opportunities to view Waipoÿo Falls from lookouts located off the main highway—the first chance comes past mile marker 10 on Highway 550 but the second chance, offering a closer view, occurs further up the road near mile marker 13. For those wanting a little more adventure in their lives and an opportunity to view Waipoÿo Falls from another angle, Canyon Trail (beginning between mile markers 14 and 15) takes hikers to the top of Waipoÿo Falls. Numerous glimpses of the falls occur throughout the trek and the end of the hike offers a series of small ponds for hikers to cool off in.

HIDDEN WATERFALLS Hanakäpiÿai Falls Nestled within fertile valleys of Kaua‘i’s secluded Näpali Coast, along the North Shore of the island, is a waterfall that goes unseen by many visitors and locals alike. A 2-mile hike to Hanakäpiÿai Beach along the strenuous Kalalau Trail plus a 2-mile hike up a narrow valley, both one way, takes visitors to a place that many describe as a rejuvenating fall and well worth the journey to get there. Hanakäpiÿai Falls is accessible only by foot along a rough and unmaintained trail beginning at Këÿë Beach in Häÿena. The hike takes climbers to nearly 760 feet elevation above Hanakäpiÿai Beach along an additional two-hour hike into the valley that is dotted with local vegetation including mountain apple trees and a bamboo forest along the way. The culmination of this difficult hike is a spectacular view of Hanakäpiÿai Falls whose rushing waters plummet over the edge of a cliff before falling nearly 300-feet into an emerald green pool. In ancient times, stories tell that this secluded area of Kauaÿi was inhabited by a race of little people called Menehune who named the area of the falls in honor of a great Menehune Chiefess Hanakäpiÿai known to have birthed a child at the spot of the waterfall, but died later due to complications. Please note that at the time of print this and other Kalalau Trails are currently closed due to the recent historic flooding on the North Shore. For trail updates and safety video, please visit http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/kauai/kalalau-trail/. 34

WAIPO‘O FALLS

HANAKĀPI‘AI FALLS

ULUWEHI FALLS

Uluwehi Falls (Secret Falls) Secret Falls is located in Wailua on Kauaÿi’s eastern side and is one of the few waterfalls accessible only by water making the journey to the falls a great adventure. After completing a 2-mile kayak ride up the Wailua River and a 1-mile hike inland, visitors are greeted with a 100-foot “bridal veil” fall of water trickling along a sheet of rock into a tranquil pond below. In the past, Hawaiian ali‘i (chiefs or nobility) traveled along the Wailua River and hiked the same paths to bathe in the pond of Secret Falls and refresh themselves in its waters. While the journey to the falls might sound arduous, all skill levels and ages are seen along the route and there are a few tour companies who guide visitors to this regal waterfall for a chance to see a hidden part of Kauaÿi. From gentle cascades and rushing torrents to famous falls and hidden gems, the variety of waterfalls found on Kauaÿi provides incredible photoops and incredible outdoor adventure. Just make sure to always keep safety in the forefront and respect private property.

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SAFETY FIRST

Remember that no view or experience is worth more than your well-being. Make smart decisions like checking the weather forecast before heading out on any hiking adventure. Stormy weather increases the possibility of flash flooding on land. If the DLNR happens to reopen the famed Kalalau Trail while you are here, do not attempt to hike to Hanakäpiÿai Falls if rain is predicted. Water levels can rise in a matter of moments making crossing any waterway super dangerous. Opt to wait for clear skies before trekking to the exquisite falls. Also, keep in mind that rain makes the ground dangerously muddy and slick. Make sure you have the proper supplies like sunscreen, a good pair of hiking shoes, food, plenty of water, and cell phone. It’s prudent to let someone know where you are headed especially if you are hiking alone. Before embarking on any Kaua‘i adventure, it’s a good idea to get advice from your concierge or someone who lives in the area. They are more familiar with the places you want to explore and can give you some valuable local knowledge to help guide you on your journey. Be safe, not sorry!

TIE THE KNOT

SIMPLE, UNFORGETTABLE WAYS TO ADD HAWAIIAN WEDDING TRADITIONS TO YOUR BIG DAY WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

PHOTO COURTESY: (LEFT) GRAND HYATT KAUA'I RESORT & SPA

- with aloha -

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

A dream wedding in Hawaiÿi is as magical as it sounds. Just imagine…you can get married barefoot in the sand and start your honeymoon immediately after the reception without the hassle of going through the dreaded airport security and long flight; your guests are at a premier vacation destination; and the natural beauty found here makes for incredible photographs for your treasured wedding album. You can be as casual or formal as you like and create a wedding perfect for you and your soon-to-be-spouse while staying within your set budget. But, a destination wedding isn’t ideal for everyone— especially those with a large guest list or family members that can’t travel. Whether celebrating your nuptials on a serene beach here on Kauaÿi or sharing your affinity for Hawaiÿi in a traditional wedding on the mainland, there are many simple, yet elegant, ways to incorporate the beautiful Hawaiian traditions in your ceremony to bring a bit of aloha to your big day.

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FLORAL LEI

BLESSING OF THE RINGS

Strings of flowers in varying hues and scents are common in the Islands and are often exchanged to show love, honor, and respect. At weddings, lei can be incorporated into the ceremony in a variety of ways to show the eternal bond between the couple and how sweet their love is for one another. Traditionally, the bride is outfitted in a floral crown called a haku lei. Fragrant blossoms are interwoven with green foliage and tied around her head to bring honor and attention to her. The bride and groom can also choose to exchange lei worn around the necks during the ceremony to show their admiration and respect for one another. The bride will typically be given a white lei made of fragrant flowers such as plumeria, pïkake, or white ginger while grooms are often seen wearing lei made of the fragrant maile vine interwoven with flowers of his choice. At some ceremonies, the kahuna pule, or holy man officiating the ceremony, will join the hands of the couple over a lei to symbolize the unending connection they are making while he offers a chant or oli to the heavens.

During the wedding ceremony, the kahuna pule often performs a ceremony to bless and purify the wedding rings prior their exchange. A bowl made of koa wood is used in this ceremony, which symbolizes strength and integrity. The kahuna pule will fill the koa bowl with salt water and then dip a ti leaf, symbolizing health, prosperity, and wealth, in the water which he will shake three times over the couple’s wedding bands. The salt water sprinkled on the rings purifies the union and throw all obstacles that hinder the couple back to the sea allowing nothing but happiness to come their way. A chant usually accompanies the ring blessing: Ei-Ah Eha-No. Ka Malohia Oh-Na-Lani. Mea A-Ku A-Pau. May blessings from above rest upon you and remain with you now and forever.

ATTIRE

While some brides opt for traditional white gowns, others will select a Hawaiian muÿumuÿu, which is a loose gown that drapes from the shoulders and falls at either the knees or ankles. Traditionally, a bride will wear a white muÿumuÿu with delicate patterns, but recently more brides are seen wearing muÿumuÿu of their wedding colors or in a stronger pattern matching the groom’s attire. Modern grooms can be seen wearing aloha shirts and loose slacks, but the traditional attire at Hawaiian weddings for grooms was, surprising to some, outfits of all white. White dress shirts were paired with white slacks creating a stylish silhouette for grooms while a colorful sash, typically red, was tied around their waists. MUSIC

A popular choice for the first dance as a married couple is the “Hawaiian Wedding Song.” Written in 1926 by Charles E. King, the song was originally titled “Ke Kali Nei Au” or “Waiting Here for You.” Al Hoffman and Dick Manning translated the song into English in 1958 and it was then given its new title. A mainstay at local weddings, the “Hawaiian Wedding Song” will not only bring some of the islands to your celebration, but also link you to the many couples in years past that celebrated their first dance to this tune. 38

CONCH SHELLS

Pü (conch shells) can be used throughout the wedding ceremony and have a variety of meanings in the Islands. While the bride walks down the aisle, some kahuna pule will blow a conch shell to call the earth, sea, wind, and fire to bear witness to the ceremony. Others opt to have a conch blown three times before the exchange of rings as a symbol of the Holy Trinity. The blowing of conch shells is a sacred ritual with a complex set of guidelines dictating how many blows should be sounded and to which direction and is done with utmost reverence. SHARING OF HĀ

Since ancient times, Hawaiians have shared the special custom of, when greeting one another, sharing hä. Hä, also known as breath or life force, is exchanged by two people pressing their noses together and inhaling at the same time. This special moment is not only a sharing of the physical space, but also an exchange of their essence. Some couples choose to incorporate this act into their ceremony prior to the traditional kiss, also known as honi. No matter the location, whether here or on the mainland, including some of these Hawaiian wedding traditions to your special day is a sure way to share your love of Hawaiÿi with each other, as well as with your guests, and add a little extra aloha to your celebration making it a unique experience for all.

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STYLE

Van Balen Fine Jewelry

SHOP KAUA‘I 40

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ISLAND STYLE

Mother & Keiki Starfish Pendant with Abalone Inlay and Diamonds in 14K Yellow or White Gold, chain included (top left); Horizon Pendant with Lapis Inlay and Pavé Diamonds in 14K Yellow or White Gold, chain included, matching earrings available (top right); Waterfall Hinged Bangle Bracelet with Diamonds in 14K Yellow Gold (mid left); Wave Hinged Bangle Bracelet with Diamonds and Opal Inlay in 14K Yellow Gold (bottom). Available at NaHoku in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops, Po‘ipu Shopping Village or NaHoku.com.

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STYLE

ISLAND STYLE Shop these glamorous designs available at Van Balen Fine Jewelry in The St. Regis Princeville Resort.

Tahitian Black pearls in every color for every occasion. Perfectly round, high quality, naturally colored strands with 12mm pearls,Â in any length requested. Prices range from $6000 and up.

Day or night ~ every lady needs a pair of pearl earrings. This pair of Tahitian black pearls showcase a round pair of 11 mm pearls highlighted by a quarter carat of white diamonds. Price $3200. Available in Golden Indonesian pearls, and South Sea white Australian pearls. Classic pearl stud earrings without diamonds are also available in every color, prices range from $525 to $2200.

Diamond rings are always a favorite! The perfect Anniversary gift, these sparkly bands can be worn individually or look amazing stacked together. Prices range from $1200. and up. Sizing included at no charge! Appraisal included.

A bracelet to die for ~ Congac diamonds and fancy yellow diamond center stones in various cuts, naturally colored and certified with white diamond accents. Price available upon request. Appraisal included.

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Award Winning Fine Jewelry since 1999

ISLAND SHOPPING NORTH SHORE SHOPPING VAN BALEN FINE JEWELRY Our internationally renowned pearl jewelry is hand made on Kaua‘i by Valerie Van Balen, crafted with exquisite attention to detail. In addition to her own creations, Valerie has traveled the globe discovering other world class jewelers, whom she now represents. This allows for a virtual “around the world” shopping experience, all within one relaxing location. We welcome you to visit our store and adorn yourself in our exotic pearl jewelry from Tahiti, Australia and Indonesia. We also carry an enticing selection of ethical diamonds in a multitude of shapes, sizes and colors. Our highly educated staff will provide you with flawless service, guaranteed. Enhance your visit to Kaua‘i by selecting from an unsurpassed collection of fine jewelry. Van Balen Fine Jewelry is the exclusive jeweler to the prestigious St. Regis Princeville Resort, open everyday from 9am to 9pm. (808) 826-6555. SOUTH SHORE SHOPPING GRAND HYATT SHOPS The shops at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i offer something for everyone. Na Hoku features an alluring collection of Tahitian pearls and more. Collectors Fine Art showcases wall art and handblown glass creations. Lamonts carries sundries, snacks and beverages. The Sandal Tree offers a selection of footwear and accessories. Reyn’s continues its tradition of aloha wear for the whole family. Visit Poipu Bay Golf Shop for designer collections for on and off the course. Try Water Wear for beachwear for every age group. Kohala Bay Collections features casual designer elegance.

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Valerie Van Balen Designer & CEO

St. Regis

Princeville, Kauai

ValVanBalen.com

808.826.6555

Monthly Giveaways!

Open Daily 9:30am - 9:00pm

SOUTH SHORE & LĪHU‘E GRANDE’S GEMS Grande’s Gems Hawai‘i has been featuring nature inspired and romantic jewelry since 1982. Our guests will find fun fashionforward and elegant jewelry in opal, multicolor gemstones, diamond, Tahitian, golden and south sea pearls. Sea life and tropical flower jewelry from Denny Wong and Mikel. Visit us at Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 and our newest location at The Shops at Kukui‘ula (808) 742-2828, or online at GrandesGemshawaii.com.

MENS HARDWEAR Mens Hardwear is all about the guys. Jewelry, knives, watches, and accessories for men in cool and edgy styles. Featuring men’s jewelry from Scott Kay, Edward Mirell, Triton, and Hellmuth. Tahitian pearl and opal designs from Mens Hardwear collection. Knives from William Henry Studio and Cold Steel. Visit us at our two locations on Kaua‘i, or shop online at menshardwear.com.

STYLE

ISLAND STYLE

14k gold necklace set with an Australian "pin fire" Crystal Opal and diamond accent (above). Sterling silver hand hammered double drop earring with chain link (above, right). 14k gold ring set with a rare Green Tourmaline and princess cut diamonds (right). Available at Grande's Gems at the Kauai Marriott Resort or The Shops at Kukuiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ula.

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NA HOKU An incomparable collection of the finest Hawaiian and Island Lifestyle jewelry for women and men; Na Hoku is recognized in Hawai‘i and the world for its exquisite islandinspired designs; from our original Hawaiian slipper (flip flop) pendant, our elegant Palm Tree Jewelry Collection, the timeless Na Hoku diamond solitaire engagement ring and bridal collections, to our extensive Plumeria Jewelry Collection and our traditional Hawaiian jewelry. Featuring unique collections by Kabana, Steven Douglas, Asch/Grossbardt, and Levian, as well as our exquisite Tahitian Pearl designs. Na Hoku jewelry captures the essence of Hawaiian and island lifestyle and is unmatched in quality and craftsmanship. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops (808) 7421863 and Poipu Shopping Village (808) 7427025 or at nahoku.com. REAL ESTATE HŌKŪALA Höküala, A Timbers Resort, enjoys a setting among the most spectacular in all of the Hawaiian Islands, a 450-acre natural amphitheater with an unobstructed panorama from the ocean to coastline to sculpted mountains beyond. In the poetic language of native Hawaiians, Höküala means ‘Rising Star’. It is fitting, then, that this epic resort will evolve gradually, beginning with Timbers Kaua‘i - Ocean Club & Residences, a residential enclave located on the ocean's edge of the Pacific. The award-winning Jack Nicklaus Signature Ocean Course, already rated among the very best, features the longest stretch of continuous oceanfront holes in all of Hawai‘i. Höküala offers a rare and delicate balance between adventure and serenity, discovery and accessibility. The evolving vision is to create a place and experience that unites us all in the celebration of the island, its culure, and its people. For more information, call (808) 7206688 or (800) 269-2364. Visit them online at hokualakauai.com/traveler.

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KUKUI‘ULA Inspired by the authentic Kaua‘i island culture, and named for the candlenut (kukui) torches that once guided the island’s fishermen back to shore, Kukui‘ula is a Kaua‘i community that offers our homeowners the laid-back lifestyle of classic Hawai‘i. At the heart of our carefully planned Hawai‘i luxury homes, nestled above Kukui‘ula Bay, are the Plantation House, Spa and Makai Pools. From here, the Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course follows the natural flow of the land through the community’s coffee fields, meadows and rolling hillsides — affording wide, panoramic vistas of the Pacific. Call (808) 201-0380 or visit kukuiula.com or lodgeatkukuiula.com.

ISLAND SHOPPING + LIVING YVONNE SUMMERFIELD Come discover Kaua‘i real estate with Kaua‘i's Only 10 Time Top 100 Realtor and you'll discover an island paradise. Yvonne specializes in residential real estate sales throughout Kaua‘i, including luxury homes and estates, oceanfront condos, resort & second home properties, vacation rental properties and land parcels. For exceptional representation call Yvonne Summerfield at (808) 346-7251 or visit YvonneSummerfield.com.

Out of 20,000 real estate agents in the State of Hawaii, 9 Realtors received this award. Only 1 is on Kauai.

#1 Top Selling Kauai Realtor, Most Sold Transactions since 2015

“Put The Power Of Performance & Results To Work Representing Your Best Interests”

hawaiian healing

A SPA EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

ANARA SPA 46

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) GRAND HYATT KAUA'I RESORT & SPA

fter long days basking in the warm Hawaiian sun or pushing levels of endurance on an all-terrain hike in Kauaÿi’s vibrant mountains, a well-deserved day of indulgence and rejuvenation is called for by replenishing the body, skin, and soul with treatments inspired by Hawaiian healing techniques and locally-derived botanical products carefully selected for their natural benefits. From massages based in local knowledge of healing to facials based around the flora and fauna found in the islands, the Anara Spa at the Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa and the Haleleÿa Spa at The St. Regis Princeville Resort offer two of the best locations on the island to enjoy a tranquil spa day filled with the beauty, power, and serenity of the islands. Located in sunny Poÿipü on Kaua‘i’s southern shore, the fullservice Anara Spa at Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi blends ancient healing traditions with the beauty of island-fresh botanicals creating a spa experience exemplary of the sacred healing powers of the island. From tropical facials to detox wraps, all services occur in open-air treatment rooms with adjacent private gardens allowing guests to indulge in nature during a peaceful meditative moment. Treatments are based on the Hawaiian principal of lökahi, which means a balance or harmony of all things. The treatments at Anara Spa are inspired by consultations with Hawaiian cultural experts to ensure the proper techniques and botanicals are appropriately paired during each treatment for maximum outcome. Anara Spa’s signature treatment, the Kauaÿi Clay, gives guests an opportunity to experience the Garden Isle through a variety of indigenous ingredients delivered over a course of different steps. First, warmed coconut oil is drizzled over the body. This myhawaiitraveler.com

hydrates the skin, preparing it to accept the ÿawa (kava root), which is lightly sprinkled and rubbed into the skin with warmed stones helping to exfoliate layers of dead skin away. The skin is now primed to accept the Kauaÿi Clay Mask, which is a blend of organic aloe to sooth skin, locally sourced noni juice, and ÿawa, which nourishes and feeds the skin. Once the body is wrapped, guests are left to relax and unwind allowing the product to seep deeply into the skin to work its magic. Afterwards, guests are encouraged to rinse off the mask in one of the spa’s open-air lava rock showers. After the shower, guests are treated to a full-body massage in which a rich cream created by blending rainforest botanicals is rubbed on the skin to restore hydration. In addition to their array of body treatments, Anara Spa also offers facials formulated to incorporate the locally created product line Honua Hawaiian Skincare whose name honors honua (earth) where the botanicals used in their products are born and grown. By combining Honua’s products and the ancient Hawaiian art of läÿau lapaÿau (healing based on traditional insights and herbs), Anara Spa unveiled three locally inspired facial treatments. Their ÿÄina facial (for land lovers) aims to feed skin with the Hawaiian superfood, kalo (taro) that nourishes skin with its combination of phytonutrients, vitamins, and minerals like BetaCarotene, Vitamins A and C, and skin-repairing manganese. Once the skin is cleansed and exfoliated, it is stimulated with nïÿoi (Hawaiian chili pepper) followed by a hula-inspired massage while calming ÿölena (turmeric) oil is gently rubbed into skin. Honua’s nourishing ÿÄina Mask culminates the treatment and is allowed to soak into the skin helping skin regenerate and repair. 47

For lovers of the ocean, Anara Spa’s Moana facial helps to revitalize sun-kissed skin and induce a soothing serenity. The skin is treated to a mask that begins with a base of limu koÿa (Hawaiian spirulina), which brings its high number of antioxidants that help to boost cell regeneration and fortifies skin against free radicals. To the limu koÿa, aloe is added to cool and calm skin as well as macadamia nut oil, which is known for its deeply nourishing and hydrating properties. And for a deluxe facial experience, their Lomilomi facial offers a full-sensory journey with ingredients sourced from mauka (mountains) to makai (the sea). The treatment begins with skin cleansing done by warmed stones to relax skin and open pores. A gentle papaya-hibiscus blend is applied to the face to deliver a gentle exfoliation and prepare the skin to accept a mask to nourish and add brightness. Gentle lomi massage is applied to the face to assist in products soaking in deeper and increasing blood circulation to the skin. When finished, your face looks brighter and feels incredibly soft. Anara Spa is located at the Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa; 1571 Poÿipü Road, Köloa, HI 96756. Open daily from 6am to 8pm. Call (808) 240-6440 for appointments or visit anaraspa.com. On Kaua‘i’s North Shore, the Haleleÿa Spa at The St. Regis Princeville Resort also aims to deliver Hawaiian-inspired spa treatments and locally sourced products to their guests as they follow ancient traditions they have blended with healing rituals and western techniques. Spa experiences at the Haleleÿa Spa are tailored to each guest’s preferences and utilizes botanicals found right on the island as Spa Director Carolyn Maldonado notes, “Our island is blessed with rich flora that brings us an abundance of ingredients with healing and harmonious properties.” For those wanting to revive their muscles and are looking for a full-body treatment to brighten skin and slough off dead cells, Haleleÿa Spa’s Kauaÿi Coffee Scrub and Cardamom Massage both stimulates and purifies skin leaving guests feeling relaxed 48

and glowing. The treatment begins with a blend of Kauaÿi coffee, black olives, crushed almonds, sugar, and fresh lemon juice being applied directly to the body to exfoliate and tighten skin. Once primed from the body scrub, a detoxifying massage releases tension from muscles using an intoxicating blend of cardamom, patchouli, vetiver, and black pepper. After the treatment, guests are encouraged to stay, rest, and recharge the mind before departing the spa. If skin is left parched and dry after too much fun in the tropical sun, the Haleleÿa Spa suggests guests nourish skin with their Rose Hydration Sun Soother Facial, which utilizes the best natural resources designed to cater to sun-exposed skin. This specially designed facial experience is geared towards soothing and nurturing the delicate skin as well as protecting it. And to fully release from daily stresses and strains, their fullbody Hawaiian Lomilomi Massage allows guests to experience a traditional Hawaiian healing technique passed down for generations from the earliest Polynesians. “The treatment incorporates the rhythms and nature found in the island, like the swing of the palm trees and the rolling of the waves,” Maldonado remarks. She adds that the Hawaiian Lomilomi Massage is “…a ritualistic form of healing that emphasizes the mind-body connection, while the smell of organic coconut oil stimulates the senses into sweet relaxation and meditation.” Whether seeking treatment to heal the skin, repair tired muscles, or nourish the soul (or all of the mentioned), the mind-body-location connection emphasized at both Anara Spa and Haleleÿa Spa highlight the important role Kaua‘i’s natural botanicals and Hawaiian therapeutic practitioners play in restoring the body for optimal well being. Haleleÿa Spa is open daily from 9am to 7pm. It is located at The St. Regis Princeville Resort; 5520 Ka Haku Road Princeville, HI 96722. Call for appointments (808) 826-9644 or visit stregisprinceville.com/ spa/. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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DESTINATIONS

THE SUNNY SOUTH PO‘IPŪ TO WAIMEA CANYON

tunnel of tall eucalyptus trees marks the gateway to Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore. Perfect weather and golden beaches make the south side of Kaua‘i a favorite hang out for both visitors and locals. Old Köloa Town is home to Hawai‘i’s first active sugar mill, the birthplace of the Hawaiian sugar industry, which was the state’s strongest economy for more than a century. Although the mill is inoperational now, the charming town thrives with activity from the many restaurants, boutiques and shops that line the wooden sidewalks. One of the best ways to really experience all the South Shore has to offer is by ATV, exploring its beautiful vistas, plantations and waterfalls. Fun! Just a couple of miles south of Köloa lies sunny Po‘ipü, a major resort destination with beachfront condos and restaurants developed around some of the best beaches on the Island. Once there, you will see why Po‘ipü Beach has been voted America’s Best Beach by the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, as Po‘ipü provides beachgoers a place to snorkel, swim, wade, boogie-board, kayak, surf and sunbathe. Swimming at all levels can be enjoyed, from the protected natural saltwater pools to the more exciting wave action for the experienced. With three bow-shaped bays, each with their own environment, Po‘ipü thrives with a multitude of marine life. Looking to satisfy the explorer in you? Then discover the secluded and diverse landscape of Mähä‘ulepü. With rugged limestone cliffs, ancient burial grounds and rocky sea caves, your journey will be unforgettable. If trekking by foot, start at Shipwreck Beach, located just east of the Hyatt. (Hint: If you see locals jumping from a 50-ft sand dune at Makawehi Point, you’re headed in the right direction.) Once in the ironwoods, you should be able to pick up the trail. If you have a 4WD and a watch, you can drive in. But 50

if you do drive, pay attention to the time, as the park closes at 6pm, and you don’t want to get locked in. At Prince Kühïo Park, you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He was known for spearheading the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act. This sets aside 200,000 acres of leasehold land for indigenous Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace. To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave when the tide is high. A visit to the Garden Island wouldn’t be complete without visiting a garden or two. The National Tropical Botanical Garden and the Allerton Garden are two stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. Just a little inland from the opulent coast, is the modest town of Kaläheo. Take a drive through the neighborhood and experience true island living. Stop and picnic in paradise in Kukui O Lono Park. Because the park is set up on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction, including the south coast and Läwa‘i Valley. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. By blending luxury and tradition, the South Shore of Kaua‘i is sure to provide something for everyone. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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GOLF

GOLF KAUA‘I Teeing it up on the island of Kaua‘i means negotiating pristine fairways, tropical landscapes and beautiful ocean vistas. But don’t let this natural beauty distract you, as the Garden Isle offers up some of the true tests of the game that will challenge your skills, and concentration. 52

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MAKAI GOLF CLUB

The Makai Golf Club at Princeville has long been considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier golf facilities. The distinct layout of the course strategically winds around serene lakes and native woodlands, while capitalizing on spectacular coastline views. With the recent renovation by original architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. complete, the course is now open for play! For reservations and information, please call (808) 826-1912 for tee times or visit makaigolf.com.

A Treasure By Design

POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE

Sprawled between lush mountains and rugged ocean cliffs on Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore, Poipu Bay Golf Course boasts 18 championship holes that are as visually stunning as they are challenging. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Poipu Bay is one of the most highly acclaimed resort courses in the Pacific. From 1994-2006, the course played host to the annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf, one of the most prestigious tournaments in the golf world. A round at Poipu Bay Golf Course affords you the opportunity to experience the sheer pleasures and daunting challenges of a course recognized as one of America’s finest and to “play where champions play.” Call (808) 742-8711 or visit poipubaygolf.com.

experienceTroon Golf At the Princeville Makai Golf Club

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PHOTO COURTESY: MARISA ESTIVIL

ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLAND The spirit of adventure thrives on the Garden Isle with secret waterfalls, beaches and hiking trails to excite the explorer in all of us. With so much to discover in the vast ocean, valleys, parks and rivers, the choices are endless and the unmatched beauty is complimentary. 54

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ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE GUIDE AIR TOURS JACK HARTER HELICOPTERS

Jack Harter is the Originator of Helicopter Tours on Kaua‘i. Jack’s motto is “Imitated by All, Equaled by None!” All of the employees at Jack Harter Helicopters work to carry on Jack’s reputation of providing safe, high quality tours that become cherished memories. Choose a 60 or 90 minute narrated tour offered in two types of helicopters. Their luxurious, air-conditioned, 6-passenger Eurocopter AStar features huge floor-to-ceiling windows for unsurpassed visibility and a two-way intercom system with BOSE noise canceling headsets. Adventurous travelers who seek a little more excitement may want to consider a flight in one of Jack Harter Helicopters’ 4-passenger Hughes 500 helicopters which are flown with the DOORS OFF. FAA Part 135 Certified. Call (808) 245-3774 or helicopters-kauai.com.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience Kaua‘i’s hidden wonders that can only be discovered from the air. See areas where no one has ever set foot. Your tour will include famous areas that make Kaua‘i a favorite location for Hollywood filmmakers. You will see lush valleys dotted with waterfalls, colorful Waimea Canyon and the impenetrable Näpali Coast known for its towering razor sharp cliffs and secluded beaches. Depart from Lï‘hue Heliport or the exclusive Princeville Heliport. Call (808) 245-5953.

EXPLORE KAUA‘I ATV TOURS

Venture into Kaua‘i’s lush, tropical paradise on the back of a semi-automatic, easy to use All Terrain Vehicle. Choose one of our daily ATV expeditions through the gorgeous mountains of Kaua‘i’s south side for an unforgettable experience on the road less traveled. Ride your own ATV on 22,000 acres of private dirt roads and trails. Enjoy breathtaking mountain and coastline views, unspoiled tropical landscapes inaccessable to the general public and a half mile tunnel through the heart of the Ha‘upu mountain range. Come join us for the ultimate off-road adventure. Call (808) 742-2734.

KIPU RANCH ADVENTURES

We are proud to be one of the top eco-tours in Hawai‘i. We enable visitors and residents alike to discover the rich history, landscape and legends that make Kaua‘i unique. Guests return to us year after year because of our enthusiastic dedication to high standards of quality and service. Adventure lovers enjoy the thrills of our ATVs while nature lovers and photography enthusiasts enjoy our Rhino and Ranger passenger tours. We also cater to private groups, families, companies and weddings. Spend a few hours with us and see why we are the number one ATV tour in Hawaii! You will be deeply moved by your experience of genuine aloha, history and tropical adventure. Call (808) 246-9288 or visit kiputours.com.

KOLOA ZIPLINE

Come experience the breathtaking beauty of Köloa; from the beauty of the natural settings to the preservation of the rich history of the land. Travel through and above a variety of ecosystems located on Grove Farm lands on 8 fantastic ziplines. Watch the sun set on our Sunset Tour and fly hands free over the jungle like your favorite super hero in our custom upgradeable Flyin’ Kauai’an Harness. Brave the island’s longest lines at Koloa Zipline! Call (808) 7422734 or visit koloazipline.com.

PRINCEVILLE RANCH ADVENTURES

Go mauka. Get away from the crowds and find yourself in nature. Explore a hidden part of Kaua’i rarely seen and experience the pure natural wonder of our 2,500-acre family ranch on the North Shore. Princeville Ranch has it all: ziplines, horseback riding, 4x4 off-roading, hiking, kayaking and secluded waterfalls. Glide over green valleys and jungles. We’ve got an extensive Kauai zipline course for all levels. Looking for excitement, speed, and flying mud? Blast through streams and get ready for “permagrin” because our fleet of 4x4 side-by-sides will take you to some amazing places. Enjoy panoramic views of our working cattle ranch on horseback. Both group and private rides are available, and we can accommodate beginners up to expert riders. Along the way, our friendly guides share the history and culture of both Kaua‘i and the Ranch. Or how about kayaking down a gentle, jungle stream and hiking through a lush rainforest? Or swimming plus a picnic at a stunning private waterfall? We even offer combination adventures so you and your family can mix up the fun. There’s an adventure for everyone at Princeville Ranch! Call (808) 826-7669 or visit us at princevilleranch.com.

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ADVENTURE SNORKEL, SAIL & SURF BLUE DOLPHIN CHARTERS

The highlight of any vacation has to be a Kaua‘i Näpali Coast sailing tour, sailing down the Näpali with dolphins surfing at the bow of your catamaran, is the ultimate in ecotourism and adventure travel. We offer the best ocean sightseeing experience and whale watching tours of any charter boat company in the Hawaiian Islands. Our Kaua‘i sailing tours also venture to Ni‘ihau, The Forbidden Island, and along the shores of Po‘ipü Beach for a romantic sunset sail. Everyone enjoys scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and the true spirit of aloha from our experienced, fun loving, crew. (808) 335-5553. Visit us online at kauaiboats.com. Located in Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele.

HAWAIIAN SURFING ADVENTURES

We provide quality surf instruction in beautiful Hanalei Bay, Kaua‘i, creating the memory of a lifetime. What makes us stand out from the competition? Our surf instructors are lifeguard certified, the lessons include top of the line surf boards and leashes/custom rash guards and our instructors are all big wave riders themselves. Yet, they know how to make sure your experience is fun while you accomplish your goal of surfing. Call us today at (808) 482-0749.

HOLOHOLO CHARTERS

The memories should last a lifetime, not the trip getting there. Our two boats, Leila and Holo Holo, get you to the action quicker than anybody else, so you have more time to snorkel, sightsee, relax and enjoy the pristine waters and spectacular cliffs of Kaua‘i’s Näpali Coast, and the “forbidden island” of Ni‘ihau. We offer morning snorkel sails along the Näpali Coast with an optional tour to Ni‘ihau. We also offer romantic Näpali sunset sails in the evening. Located in the Port Allen Marina Center in Elee‘le. Call (808) 335-0815 for reservations or visit us online at holoholocharters.com.

KAUA‘I SEA TOURS

Kaua‘i Sea Tours is unique among the boat tour operators on Kaua‘i, as they offer both traditional catamaran tours and adventurous zodiac boat tours of the Näpali Coast. Both tours are run by experienced boat captains, who are educated on Kaua‘i wildlife, conservation and history. Come aboard Kaua‘i Sea Tours for a “can’t miss” adventure! Take advantage of our unique permits to land on the Näpali Coast and hike into an ancient Hawaiian Fishing Village. Enjoy our delicious, catered lunch on board and view some of the most diverse marine life in Hawai‘i. We’ve been granted a State Parks Special Use Permit, which means you’ll see remote beaches where others can’t go. Tours depart from Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele, 4353 Wai‘alo Rd. Ste 2B-3B. Call (808) 8267254 for reservations.

SNORKEL BOB’S

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receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver fresh-air on every breath. Sumo™ Mask & Bigfoots™ fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & FREE 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie Board for the week. Open 8 to 5 Every Day. Located in Kapa‘a (808)823-9433 and Koloa (808)742-2206, or visit snorkelbob.com.

ATTRACTIONS NORTH SIDE ALAKA‘I WILDERNESS PRESERVE

The Alaka‘i Wilderness area is a mystical rainforest in the high plateau near Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale and is home to some of Hawai‘i’s rarest plants and endangered birds. On clear days, you can see breathtaking views of Hanalei and Wainiha valleys. The park includes nature trails and a boardwalk over marshy terrain to explore the most interior park in Kaua‘i. The Alaka‘i Swamp is 10 miles long and two miles wide. Wear appropriate hiking clothes (bring a sweater) and shoes. The boardwalk can be very slippery, wet and muddy at times. The trail ends at the vista of Kilohana on the edge of Wainiha Pali. Located off Hwy 550 adjacent to Köke‘e State Park. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather info in Köke‘e or hawaiitrails.org.

DRY AND WET CAVES

Maniniholo Dry Cave is said to have been dug out by Manini-holo, the chief fisherman of the Menehune in search of an evil spirit who stole the fish intended for the Menehunes. Scientifically, sea caves are formed by ocean waves pounding away at the lava for thousands of years. The grotto is covered with fern and vines and is located across Hä‘ena Beach Park off Rte. 560. Waikapala‘e Wet Cave and Waikanaloa Wet Cave are the remains of an ancient lava tube created by the forces of the sea. The cold water in the caves is fed by underground springs and the level of water depends on the tides. The caverns are said to have been used as a gathering place for chiefs in ancient times. Swimming is not recommended due to the presence of leptospirosis found in fresh water. Wear appropriate shoes to prevent injury from the slippery lava rock. Located western end of Rte. 560. Both wet caves are located just before mile marker #10 on the left, past Hä‘ena Beach Park.

HANALEI VALLEY OVERLOOK

More than beautiful, the Hanalei Valley is mystical, magical and substantial, with spectacular vistas and a half-mile patchwork of taro ponds. The fertile and ancient kalo lo‘i (the flooded taro fields) of Hanalei have fed the Hawaiians since the first Polynesians arrived here over a thousand years ago. Currently, it still produces most of the state’s taro for poi, a Hawaiian staple. You can see the 900-acre National Wildlife Refuge from the overlook. Located on Hwy 56 in Princeville.

KĪLAUEA LIGHTHOUSE

A National Historic Landmark, this lighthouse had the largest clamshell lens of any lighthouse in the world and served as a beacon since it was built in 1913 to guide passing sea and air traffic. The light was replaced in the 1970s with a low-maintenance light beacon. You can walk into the lighthouse but not the lantern room. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Call (808) 828-0168.

KĪLAUEA POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

A refuge for several species of seabirds, some nesting and some endangered, surrounds the lighthouse. Red-footed boobies, Laysan albatrosses, wedge-tailed shearwaters and the magnificent frigate bird with 7½-foot wingspan are just some examples of birds that can be seen at the refuge. Make reservations for the two-hour guided hikes through the refuge, available Monday through Thursday. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is $3 per person; children under 16 are free. Call (808) 828-0168.

LIMAHULI GARDENS

Beautiful botanical garden in a lush tropical valley is used to preserve native flora and fauna in its natural environment. It is also home to endangered plants. Built by early inhabitants, you can walk through the lava terraces and see the working taro patches in the ancient Hawaiian tradition. Reservations are required for guided tours. Self-guided tours are $15 for adults and free for children 12 and under. Wear comfortable walking shoes; umbrellas are provided (mosquito repellant may be necessary). Open Tuesday-Friday from 9:30am-4pm. Located on Rte 560 in Hä‘ena. Call (808) 826-1053 or ntbg.org.

NĀPALI COAST AND STATE PARK

The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile trek through the spectacular Näpali Coast. From Kë‘ë to Hanakäpï‘ai Beach is about 2 miles. There is an uneven trail (for the physically fit) to a waterfall and freshwater river pool about 2 additional miles back of the Hanakäpï‘ai Valley. The park consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, high sea cliffs, lush valleys and amazing views. The hike beyond Hanakäpï‘ai can be strenuous and is suitable for experienced hikers only. There are several campsites in the park, but make plans well in advance since permits are limited and the wait list can be long. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is at the end of Hwy 56. Call (808) 274-3444 or visit hawaii.gov/dlnr/ dsp/fees.html for camping information.

WAI‘OLI MISSION HOUSE

Built in 1837, the missionary home is set in beautiful Hanalei Valley and was restored by descendants of the first missionaries Lucy and Abner Wilcox. The house was restored in 1921 by the granddaughter and houses historical furnishings made from koa wood. Located off Kuhio Hwy. Free. Open Tues., Thurs., and Sat. 9am-3pm. Call (808) 245-3202. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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EAST SIDE FERN GROTTO

A beautiful, natural amphitheater of volcanic rock covered with enormous fishtail ferns, is the venue of choice for many weddings. The only way to reach the Fern Grotto is either to kayak upriver or book a boat ride. The latter has the reputation of being a bit cheeky and a tourist trap, but if you don’t feel like the exercise then be prepared to sing along. Nevertheless, you will enjoy the lush, tropical scenery along the way. Located in Wailua River State Park.

KAMOKILA HAWAIIAN VILLAGE

An authentic recreation of an ancient Hawaiian folk village illustrates ancient Hawaiian lifestyle on 3 acres of private land. The last king of Kaua‘i once resided here. Several huts and displays show how ancient Hawaiians lived, including a courtyard featuring Hawaiian games, such as spear throwing and Hawaiian bowling, which were essential in building skills. Admission: $5 adults, $3 children for self-guided tours. Located on the east shore of the Wailua River Valley at 6060 Kuamo‘o Road (Rte 580) across from Öpaeka‘a Falls. Call (808) 823-0559. 60

KEĀHUA ARBORETUM

The serene 30-acre refuge with streams and freshwater pools is a perfect setting for a picnic surrounded by mountains and lush foliage. The arboretum is divided by the stream and has a variety of foliage including monkeypods, mango, eucalyptus trees, ‘öhi‘a lehua and hibiscus. Picnic areas and pavilions can be found throughout the area for your enjoyment. There are two short hiking trails through the park. You can access the trailheads for Kuilau-Ridge Trail (incredible views from this trail) and the Moalepe Trail from this area. Open sunrise to sunset. Located down the road from the Wailua Reservoir on Hwy 580. Call (808) 241-4463.

ŌPAEKA‘A FALLS

This beautiful waterfall is the easiest to view, as it tumbles out of the jungle into a dramatic plunge over a high cliff about a 150-feet into the Wailua River. The name means "rolling shrimp," for the days when swarms of shrimp were seen rolling in turbulent waters at the base of the falls. The best time to view the cascading falls is mid-morning, and the best view is from the path along the highway. Located in Wailua off Hwy 56 on Kuamo’o Rd (Rte. 580) at mile marker 6.

ROYAL BIRTHSTONES

Royalty came to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the sacred birthstones of Pöhaku Ho‘ohönau. According to legend, if the child was to become a great chief, the heavens would rupture with thunder and lightning followed by rain. When the baby’s umbilical cord fell off, it was wrapped in kapa (cloth made from bark) and placed in the crevices of the Pöhaku Piko for safekeeping. Located Kuamo‘o Rd. (Rte. 580) in Wailua River State Park.

SLEEPING GIANT VIEWPOINT

This formation on Mt. Nounou that sort of resembles a giant is a landmark between Wailua and Kapa‘a. There are several myths and legends surrounding the Sleeping Giant. According to one, the villagers tricked a giant named Puni into eating stones to keep him from eating all the fish and taro, and he fell asleep with a full tummy, never to wake again. Mount Nounou Trail is about a two-mile trek through the forest to the summit of the Sleeping Giant’s belly with spectacular views of the Island and sometimes, O‘ahu can be seen 110 miles east. The hiking trail begins on Haleilio Road. To view the Sleeping Giant, look for the sign marking the viewing area near the Chevron station in Kapa‘a. Located off Hwy 56. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

ADVENTURE WAILUA RIVER STATE PARK

A popular place to spend a day for the wide range of activities, as well as the lush scenery of tropical foliage, Wailua River is the only navigable river in the state. Activities in the park include water skiing, kayaking, hiking trails, famous waterfalls, the Fern Grotto, an ancient Hawaiian Village, and seven sacred heiau and historic landmarks. At the mouth of the river, ancient petroglyph carvings on large stones can be seen depending on the amount of sand in the area. Once the banks were a favorite dwelling place for high chiefs and kings of Kaua‘i. If you want to kayak on your own without a guide, only three kayak rental companies rent kayaks for the Wailua River. Kayakers should stay on the right side of the river. No guided kayak tours are available on Sundays. Wailua River is located off Kuhio Hwy. Scenic views and historic sites can be accessed from Kuamo‘o Rd. Call (808) 241-4463

LI‘HUĒ & SOUTH SIDE ‘ALEKOKO (MENEHUNE) FISHPOND

Built for a young chief, this fishpond was unique in that it was built for the river instead of the coast like most others. The fishpond once covered 40 acres and consisted of a 900 ft. long wall that separated the fishpond from the stream, but today only remnants remain of the great wall. According to legend, the Menehune built the massive aquaculture facility in one night before sailing away on a floating island. Located off Hwy 50. Take Puhi Rd. to the end, and then turn left on Hulemalu Rd. The fishpond can be seen from the overlook.

GROVE FARM HOMESTEAD

The lovely plantation home was built in 1864 and opened as a living museum in 1978, featuring many displays and exhibits to paint the life of the sugar plantation days gone by. The historic home is beautifully furnished and has a staircase made from native koa wood. The grounds include giant trees and tropical flower gardens. Located south of Lihue on Highway 58. Admission is $20 and $10 for children 12 & under. Access is by tour only, which is offered twice a day Mon., Wed., and Thurs. at 10am and 1pm. Call (808) 245-3202 to make reservations in advance.

KAUA‘I MUSEUM

With artifacts, vintage photographs and exhibits, Kaua‘i Museum presents a factual look into Kaua‘i’s history. The galleries include a permanent collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts. Located 4428 Rice Street. Admission is $10. Call (808) 245-6931 for information.

KUKUI O LONO PARK

Because the park is set on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. The tranquil park is a lovely place to have a romantic picnic with sweeping ocean views of Läwa‘i Valley. Kukui O Lono means light of the god Lono. Located on Papalina Road off Hwy 50 in Kaläheo. myhawaiitraveler.com

NATIONAL TROPICAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

The National Tropical Botanical Garden is an exceptional preserve and houses the world’s largest collection of rare and endangered plants, and includes the Allerton, McBryde and Limahuli (North Shore.) The gardens are stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre tropical retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. McBryde Garden is set in seclusion between rugged cliffs, making it ideal for learning about the native plants while viewing rare and endangered Hawaiian species. Call (808) 742-2623 or visit ntbg. org.

PRINCE KŪHĪO PARK

At Prince Kühïo Park you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He is known as “People’s Prince” because of his great accomplishments for native Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace with a statue. While here, you can see the Hoai Heiau, the foundation of Prince Kühïo’s home, and the royal fishpond. Located on Läwai Road.

SPOUTING HORN

To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave. Located across from the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Läwai Road.

TREE TUNNEL

Giant eucalyptus trees planted over 150 years ago by Scotchman Walter Duncan McBryde create the Tree Tunnel, the gateway into Koloa and Po‘ipü. Turn south on Hwy 520, Maluhia Rd.

WAILUA FALLS

A stunning 80-foot tiered waterfall is easy to view close to the roadside lookout. Nicknamed the Fantasy Island waterfalls for the prominent opening scene of the falls for the hit television show. It’s best to view the falls in the morning when the sun adds to the beauty of the falls. The power of the falls depends on the rainfall. A slippery hike down a steep trail leads you to the bottom of the waterfalls for a cool swim. Located off Hwy 56, end of Ma‘alo Rd.

WEST SIDE CAPTAIN COOK’S MONUMENT

Captain James Cook, the British explorer, landed in Waimea Bay in January 1778 with his ships Resolution and Discovery, marking his first visit to the Hawaiian

Islands. Facing the sea, a statue of Cook stands in Waimea to mark the historic event that would forever change Hawai‘i. Located in Hofgaard Park in the downtown area.

KALALAU VALLEY LOOKOUT

The lookout provides panoramic views into the majestic valley—without breaking a sweat—from the 18 mile marker. It is one of the most spectacular views on earth with striking sea cliffs and the cobalt Pacific looks into the largest valley in Näpali. Kalalau Valley is dramatic, with jagged emerald ridges, and is best viewed in the morning to avoid the clouds. Further ahead is Pu‘u o Kila Lookout, which offers even more astonishing views of the valley and the deep blue ocean. Both lookouts are located at the end of the Köke‘e Road. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather information.

KŌKE‘E NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

This little museum provides interpretive programs and exhibitions about Kaua‘i’s climate, geology and ecology. The museum has great information about the forest, hiking trails and conditions and sells maps and local books. Located past the 15 mile marker off Köke‘e Road. Turn left after the park headquarters. The museum is next to Köke‘e Lodge just before the campground. Open everyday 10am-4pm. Free. Call (808) 335-9975 or visit kokee.org.

MENEHUNE DITCH (KĪKĪ A OLA)

Only remnants remain of what was once a great watercourse and aqueduct that extended 25 miles up the Waimea River—made from smooth lava stone brought from Mokihana. Legend has it that the Menehune, race of little people, built the ditch in one night for the high chief of Waimea to irrigate the taro patches for Waimea residents for payment of shrimp. Archaeologists say the historic site was built before Polynesians came, possibly by the Menehune. Located off Hwy 50 on Menehune Rd. just before the 23mile marker.

WAIMEA CANYON LOOKOUT

The Grand Canyon of the Pacific is a breathtaking gaping gorge with dramatic ridges and deep ravines shaped by the steady process of erosion and collapse of the volcano that formed Kaua‘i. It is roughly 10 miles long and 3,600 feet deep. The canyon is spectacular and majestic with jewel-tone colors of reds and greens. Take the scenic but narrow drive on Waimea Canyon Drive (Rte 550) from Hwy 50, or turn up the steep Köke‘e Road at Kekaha. The two roads merge into Köke‘e Road after a few miles up. Waimea Canyon Lookout is between mile markers 10 and 11. Check out the spectacular vistas from scenic lookouts at Pu‘u Hina Hina (3,336 feet elevation), where the private island of Ni‘ihau can be seen on clear days, and Pu‘u Ka Pele where the Waipo‘o Falls are visible after a heavy rainfall. Be prepared for cooler weather, and make sure you have some fuel in your car. Waimea Canyon Drive ends at Kalalau Lookout about 4 miles above the park. 61

LEGENDARY ROOTS Captivating stories behind native flora WORDS COCO ZICKOS

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Native plants are rooted in Hawaiian culture and are an intrinsic part of the islands. Hearty seeds found their way to the middle of the Pacific Ocean millions of years ago by way of elements like the tides, wind and birds, and evolved plant characteristics unlike anywhere else on Earth. Others were established by way of roots and cuttings, called “canoe” plants, brought via vessels guided by mighty Polynesian voyagers. These are the indigenous and native plants revered by Hawaiians. And while many of the original flora inhabitants have since gone extinct, a few are still relatively common across the islands and have stories associated with them that are based upon ancient moÿolelo (legends). The following are some species you might encounter during your tropical vacation, along with their magnificent mythological tales. The stories behind these plants are as alluring as they are visually appealing. Naupaka The flowers of this waxy green-leaf shrub that grows abundantly along most shorelines (naupaka kahakai), as well as in the mountains (naupaka kuahiwi), tell the tale of two star-crossed lovers. This indigenous plant is believed to represent the forbidden love of a princess named Naupaka, sister of volcano goddess, Pele, and a fisherman named Kaui. They adored each other, but could not be together because people of royal heritage were prohibited to marry commoners. One story goes that they traveled into the mountains to seek advice from a kahuna (high priest) who told them that he could not offer them any help. They prayed at a heiau (temple) and as they asked for guidance it started to rain, which was deemed a bad omen. Naupaka took a flower from her hair, tore it in half and kept one side while giving Kaui the other. Kaui returned to the shoreline with his half of the flower while Naupaka stayed in exile in the mountains with hers. If you look closely at the white or light yellow blossoms of the naupaka, you’ll see that the flowers bloom in halves, representing the sad love story of two ancient Hawaiians whose hearts were torn apart. It is said that when the two halves are brought together to make a whole flower, the two lovers are reunited. ÿIlima This is another common shrub typically found along the shorelines of Kaua‘i and O‘ahu. Also known as “black coral,” its golden blossom is the official flower of O‘ahu. Lei that are created with these flowers represent royalty and were often presented to those who held high rank. 64

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This native plant is tied to a story about the goddess, Hina. She was held captive in a cave below Waiänuenue (Rainbow Falls) on the Big Island by a mo‘o (lizard, reptile) named Kuna Loa. Her brave son, Mäui, a Hawaiian demigod, managed to rescue her from her the dwelling and killed the great sea creature. In honor of her release, Hina created and wore a gorgeous ÿilima lei. Another story goes that Laka, the goddess of hula, sometimes takes the form of ÿilima. The blossoms, in fact, are part of many stories involving Hawaiian entities. Pöhuehue and Kauna‘oa Pöhuehue is another shoreline shrub, a beach morning glory, and has purple or pink-colored flowers and thick, waxy leaves that are common among these indigenous coastal plants. It is often seen entangled with the yellow filaments of the native kaunaÿoa, the official flower of Läna‘i. The tale of these two plants is as entwined as they are often found and refers to the lovers, Pöhuehue and Kauna‘oa, who would spend all of their time together fishing, strolling along the beach and playing games. One day, however, they had an argument and Pöhuehue became so angry, he paddled his canoe all the way to Läna‘i where he stayed. Kauna‘oa was so upset by his sudden departure and spent years pining over him. Pöhuehue ended up dreaming of his lost love one evening, and the next morning plucked a yellow flower from the hau tree and placed it into the ocean. The flower made its way toward O‘ahu where Kaunaÿoa was swimming in Kahana Bay— the special place they once spent their days together. She knew it was from him since he used to always pluck them for her as a sign of his endearment. She followed a path of the flowers all the way to where Pöhuehue was on Läna‘i and now they are forever wrapped together along the coastlines. ‘Ulu ‘Ulu (breadfruit) is one of the most highly esteemed of the canoe plants, particularly on Kaua‘i where it is said to have been brought by the Tahitian voyager, Moikeha, who later became aliÿi nui (high chief) of the island. The plant symbolizes the Hawaiian war god, Kü. Legend has it that Kü once lived in human form as a farmer whose family suffered from famine. He couldn’t stand watching his wife and children starve so he planted himself in the ground. His wife cultivated the spot where he was buried until a sprout grew and turned into a breadfruit tree that was able to nourish and sustain them again. myhawaiitraveler.com

Kalo Another staple of the Hawaiian diet steeped in mythology is kalo (more commonly called taro). Taro patches (loÿi) abound along the wetlands of Hanalei. Here, the plant is harvested to make various food products like poi, the steamed and pounded root of the plant. To Hawaiians, kalo represents the “staff of life.” Their creation story centers around the gods, Wäkea and Ho‘ohökükalani, whose firstborn, Häloa, did not survive. Where the baby was buried, a kalo plant subsequently grew. According to legend, Häloa’s mother’s tears helped him sprout. Notice that each leaf of the taro is shaped like a heart and water gathers in the center of each leaf in the shape of a teardrop. Their second child, also named Häloa in honor of their firstborn, was a healthy boy who all Hawaiian people are believed to be the descendants of. The younger Häloa went on to nurture the kalo that sprouted from his older brother. The story is a reminder that the earth will provide if nourished and nurtured. ÿÖhiÿa Lehua The official flower of the Big Island, this is the state’s most abundant native tree. The tree’s fluffy flowers (lehua) resemble bright red holiday ornaments, but can also occur in different colors such as yellow, orange, pink or cream. Legends of this prized plant are as rich as the varied forms it comes in. The flower is another representation of two starcrossed lovers. The couple endured the fury of Pele who wished to wed the dashing warrior named ÿÖhiÿa, but his heart already belonged to a young woman named Lehua. Pele, scorched with emotions, turned ÿÖhiÿa into a gnarled tree to punish him. The Hawaiian gods empathized with Lehua who was destroyed by the loss, so they turned her into a beautiful blossom, united forever with her lover. It’s been said that if you pluck one of the flowers, it will rain the same day, symbolic of Lehua’s misery, once again, for being separated from the love of her life. Despite ÿöhiÿa lehua’s deep ties to the environment and culture, the plant is currently undergoing a terrible plight. A fungal disease called Rapid ÿÖhiÿa Death (ROD) has claimed vast acres of the endemic species since about 2010, mostly on the Big Island, though the disease was recently detected on Kauaÿi. The number one action visitors can do to help prevent the spread of the fungus is use the decontamination stations at trailheads before and after going into the forest. Many more plants have captivating stories tied to their roots. Next time you find native flora, imagine the legends it could have associated with it and remember to appreciate their cultural history and importance to the people of Hawaiÿi. 66

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DESTINATIONS

THE NORTH SHORE The North Shore is tranquil and draped in velvety green, with waterfalls cascading from heaven into a verdant valley and the sounds of gentle surf. At the top of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale sits Alaka‘i Swamp. From this wetland, streams of water flow to the beaches below. Along its journey, the water engraves deep, lush valleys, creating a fertile landscape for the cultivation of various crops on Kaua‘i’s North Shore. The Hawaiians divided this area into three land divisions: Ko‘olau, Halele‘a, and Nāpali. 68

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KO‘OLAU The rural communities of Moloa‘a and Kïlauea lay in the ahupua’a of Ko‘olau. Due to its isolation, the beach community of Moloa‘a is often overlooked by visitors. Just ten minutes north of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a Bay is a great place for swimming, snorkeling or reading a book. Unlike the rocky beaches of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a offers golden sand and turquoise water. Kïlauea is a former sugar plantation town. The most frequented visitor attraction here is the Kïlauea Lighthouse. The lighthouse is located on a 203-acre national wildlife refuge. Many migratory birds, such as the Pacific Golden Plover, the Laysan Albatross, and the Nënë propagate here. Sometimes you may even see humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals and spinner dolphins. HALELE‘A Six small beach towns make up the district of Halele‘a. Kalihi Wai is the first and is primarily known for its surf break. Kalihi Wai means “with a stream,” which is fitting, being that it’s next to one. Spend an afternoon kayaking up Kalihi Wai stream. ‘Anini Beach is just across the river. A bridge once connected the two towns until a tidal wave washed it away in 1957. Vacation homes line the beach here and the ocean stays relatively calm due to a wide fringing reef surrounding it. Windsurfing is very popular here. Up the road is Princeville, the Bel-Air of Kaua‘i. This lavish town sits on a plateau that extends from the upper mountains to lower sea cliffs. A short hike down one of these cliffs will take you to Queen’s Bath, a large protected saltwater pond. Princeville offers many amenities that Hanalei doesn’t (like a

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gas station), so fill’er up and head on down to Hanalei. Hanalei is what Kaua‘i probably looked like in the 1800s. Make sure to stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout, where you’ll find acres of taro fields covering the valley floor. Be on the look out for Beefalo (half cow, half buffalo). Hanalei has become a popular destination for visitors and surfers, and offers some of the largest waves on the island. The water is temperamental, so take heed to any posted warnings. If you can’t swim in the ocean, the Hanalei River feeds into the bay and provides a short but sweet kayak adventure. The valley of Wainiha is believed to be the last hideout of the Menehune, a race of little people. Along this narrow valley lie the remains of old home sites, heiau and taro patches. When you’ve reached the end of the road, you’ve reached Hä‘ena. Explore the wet and dry caves of Waikanaloa, Waikapala‘e and Maniniholo (dry). View Ka Ulu a Paoa, a distinguished hula heiau and discover the underwater sea caves at Kë‘ë Beach. More than likely you’ll end up spending longer than a day here. NÄPALI For the truly adventurous, the district of Näpali is only accessible by foot. The majestic park and coastline consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, dramatic sea cliffs, lush verdant valleys and amazing views. If you plan on doing the 22-mile round trip hike to Kalalau Valley, be prepared. First and foremost, secure a camping permit. Second, pack your bags rationally and third, train! If 22 miles is a bit too adventurous, there are many enjoyable day hikes around the area. Remember, always check the weather conditions before going anywhere.

GO NORTH SHOP, DINE AND PLAY IN KĪLAUEA, PRINCEVILLE AND HANALEI

WORDS COCO ZICKOS IMAGE IAN MCGUIRE

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istoric rainfall took a toll on Kaua‘i during the early morning hours of April 15. Friends, families, neighbors and volunteers rushed to help each other, making sure everyone was safe, especially on the North Shore. The resilient community pulled together and the majority of the island was almost immediately restored to its former glory. Hanalei, surrounded by jade mountains and accompanied by a picturesque beach, is still as vibrant as it ever was. The charming North Shore town remains a tropical postcard with its dreamy beaches, quaint historic buildings and a host of lovely little nooks and crannies. At the time of this writing, the only portion of the island that remains closed to visitors is on Kühiö Highway past Waiÿoli Beach Park at Hanalei Bay. This is the road that leads to Häÿena State Park, Këÿë Beach and the Kalalau Trail. Black Pot Beach Park, by the Hanalei Pier, at the eastern end of Weke Road is also closed. The majority of Hanalei Bay, however, is still safe, accessible and open for all kinds of recreation, including swimming and surfing or simply lounging in the sun. Shopping also continues to be a favored pursuit in this wetland region. Stores and galleries are open where you can find all kinds of collectibles and one-of-a-kind trinkets, such as vintage Hawaiiana from Yellowfish Trading Co. 72

Good food is also an intrinsic part of this community. Bar Acuda, a local hot spot specializing in European-style tapas, is one of the several restaurants that are welcoming guests with open arms. Also open are after-hour watering holes, such as the famed Tahiti Nui, where guests can sip mai tais and listen to live music. If you’re in town on a Saturday from 9:30am to noon, stop by the Hanalei Neighborhood Center & Ballpark, which hosts a farmers market where tropical fruits and handcrafted items flourish. And if those aren’t reasons enough to head north, consider the trek to visit any number of other places along the way, such as the tiny town of Princeville with its gorgeous cliffside vistas overlooking the Pacific and many hidden gems. You’d probably just breeze by the Princeville Center, the one and only place to shop in this resort community, without a second glance on your way to Hanalei if you didn’t know any better, but then you’d be missing out on local keepsakes and food that hits the spot in more ways than one. Ladies, you won’t find anything, for example, comparable to Beauty Bar Kauai on the island. This is your one-stop shop for luxury skin care products, fragrances and make-up. Plus, it’s where you’ll want to go if you have a romantic night planned or a wedding to attend, as this miniature, high-end Sephora-like shop, is a blow dry and make-up bar. Guys, while the ladies are pampering, you might have interest in KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) BALIHAIPHOTO.COM; (TOP) PRINCEVILLE MAKAI GOLF CLUB; (MID) AARON FEINBERG: (BOTTOM) IAN MCGUIRE

checking out Princeville Wine Market. Specialty wines and spirits from around the world are featured in this store that’s run by a professional and highly knowledgeable sommelier. Looking for something more Kaua‘i-specific? Check out one of the art galleries at the Princeville Center like Fish Eye Kauai, which showcases underwater photography. Also, Naturally Hawaiian Gallery features artwork by Patrick Ching—a park ranger-turned-artist who brings his love of the natural world into each of his paintings. And don’t forget about the keiki (kids). They’ll be spellbound stepping into Magic Dragon Toy & Art Supply—a tiny shop filled to the brim with all kinds of creative games, kites and trinkets. It’s conveniently located next to Lappert’s Hawaii Ice Cream & Coffee, which the whole family can enjoy after a fulfilling shopping expedition in Princeville. This quaint town is also an excellent location for sunset viewing. The St. Regis Princeville Resort, at the end of Ka Haku Road, has an awesome bar with an outdoor seating area that gives an impeccable view of Makana Mountain (also known as Bali Hai) and overlooks the ocean in a way that is beyond comparison. The hotel, which requires valet parking, even celebrates each sunset with a Champagne sabering ritual (popping off the cork with a knife) and toast. Golfers, Princeville touts one of the best courses on the island. Princeville Makai Golf Club has topped many golf course lists including most scenic. Besides being blown away by the views, the course, which is a Robert Trent Jones Jr. design, presents a fun challenge for the novice or experienced golfer. Kïlauea is another charming town consisting of an ethnically diverse humble community, which had its start as a sugar cane plantation. The Kïlauea Sugar Plantation developed in the late-1800s and the town grew along with its operations as workers migrated from countries as far as Portugal and Japan. This town was also once the location of the state’s largest guava plantation. The business closed in 2007 and landowners have since turned some of the acreage into Anaina Hou Community Park that consists of a variety of activities like an alluring path called the Wai Koa Loop Trail. The trail leads to the picturesque Stone Dam but is currently closed due to the floods. However, the fantastic Mini Golf & Gardens is still open for business and is a great activity for the whole family combining education with recreation. The gift shop here has products you might like to stash in your suitcase, and Banana Joe’s Fruitstand across the parking lot has edible goodies that will please any palate. myhawaiitraveler.com

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There are still many buildings that exist in Kïlauea that were constructed during the earlier plantation days such as the Kong Lung Historic Market Center, which now serves as the site of several local businesses like Island Soap & Candle Works where soaps like Mango Coconut Guava smell good enough to eat. Food establishments nearby are also aplenty, such as Palate Wine Bar & Restaurant with sumptuous cheese plates and specialty wine from around the world. Two “malls” actually comprise the shopping experience here— though a third is currently under construction. If you only have enough time to make one stop, check out what kamaÿäina (Hawai‘i residents) refer to as the historic stone building. It’s where you’ll discover trendy stores like Oskar’s Boutique with locally made clothing for men and women, as well as jewelry and other adorable doodads. Take your time here because dazzling keepsakes crowd every corner. Nearby is Hunter Gatherer, a modern store with a Zen-like vibe that you’d expect to find in cities but not on Kaua‘i. The owners’ great taste is obvious in the variety of products offered, many of which are Kaua‘i-made, like pottery, artwork and jewelry. As you elbow your way through this pint-sized store, you might notice a delectable smell wafting your way. It’s coming from Kauai myhawaiitraveler.com

Nut Roasters next door—another great place to check out. Taste test almonds and pecans sprinkled with tropical ingredients like coconut and Kona coffee, and grab a few bags of the homemade treats to take with you. The Daniel K. Inouye Kïlauea Lighthouse is another historic treasure that was built in the early 1900s to help maritime traffic recognize that they had reached landfall from the Far East, as this was the northernmost point in the Hawaiian Islands. Now, the lighthouse sits within the Kïlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, which was established in the 1980s to help protect Kaua‘i’s magnificent population of seabirds that nest along the cliffs Hawaiÿi’s oldest island. This is a favorite stop while visiting Kïlauea, not only because of the recently renovated lighthouse, but because hundreds of native and indigenous birds, like the ÿä (red footed booby), or the mölï (Laysan albatross), can be observed dancing in the air where spectacular scenic beauty abounds. Don’t miss out on a trip to the North Shore, which includes Kïlauea, Princeville and, of course, heavenly Hanalei. There is still plenty to see and do in one of the world’s most gorgeous locales. 75

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78 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 84 CULINARY Q&A

90 GO BOLD 94 LOCAL COMFORT FOOD

Yuzu Lemon Pepper Chicken Wings at Eating House 1849

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IMAGE COURTESY: CRAIG BIXEL

88 THE HOT SPOT

Internationally Acclaimed. Locally Inspired. Sweeping views of Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences inspired by Michelin awarded Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Featuring a selection of signature appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments inspired by his portfolio of restaurants around the world.

Open Tuesday – Saturday for Dinner For reservations, please visit kauaigrill.com, opentable.com or call 808 8 26 0600 5520 Ka Haku Road Princeville Hawai‘i

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KAUA‘I DINING SOUTH SHORE DONDERO’S Dondero’s will satisfy your soul as well as your appetite. The elegant ambiance and stellar service makes this a dining favorite for those with discriminating taste. The menu is designed as an Italian tasting menu, offering complimentary flavors and contrasting textures with a large selection of appetizers, homemade pastas, fresh fish, chicken, lamb and beef specialties. This light, modern Italian cuisine is carefully paired with wines from all over the world. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456.

STEVENSON'S SUSHI & SPIRITS The warm woods and intimate seating areas of this classic lounge create a welcoming atmosphere. Take a seat at the 27-foot, hand crafted koa wood bar or sink into a cozy chair or sofa in the booked lined room. Chef Jay creates delectable sushi creations nightly in this unique Kaua‘i bar boasting an extensive selection of Whiskies, Cognac and Port in addition to creative martinis and delectable tropical drinks. Enjoy a game of pool, backgammon or chess. Scrumptious sushi rolls are sure to please. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA The Shops at Kukui‘ula has become known as the premier dining destination on Kaua‘i for its selection of casual and fine dining experiences in a beautiful plantation style setting. Merriman’s Fish House and Eating House 1849 feature renowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine Chefs Peter Merriman and Roy

Yamaguchi while Tortilla Republic and Dolphin Sushi bring contemporary flair to Mexican and seafood cuisine. Casual options include Bubba Burgers, Living Foods Market & Café, Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers, and TR Taqueria & Margarita Bar as well as local favorites Uncle’s Shave Ice and Lappert’s Hawai‘i. Check out the weekly Kaua‘i Culinary Market, Wednesdays, 3:30 to 6pm, with a cooking demo at 5pm. Visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. TIDEPOOLS For the ultimate in ambiance, Tidepools is the place. With a backdrop of waterfalls, these thatched roof hale seemingly float above koi filled lagoons providing a distinctive open-air setting in which to savor contemporary Hawaiian style cuisine. Diners rave about the fresh island fish and steak options including macadamia nut crusted mahimahi, grilled opah, organic steak, or Hawaiian salt and garlic rubbed prime rib. Salads feature fresh island-greens and the desserts are luscious. Don’t miss this delightful experience. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456.

PHOTO COURTESY: IAN MCGUIRE

EATING HOUSE 1849 BY ROY YAMAGUCHI The Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawai‘i’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawai‘i. Called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and shermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town

with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine. Located at the Shops at Kukui‘ula. Call (808) 742-5000 for reservations.

Tidepools 78

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GRAND T I D E P O O L S AT G R A N D H YAT T K A U A I —

Ahh, the romance of a tiki-torch lit dinner in thatched roof bungalows floating above a koi-filled lagoon. Here you’ll find stellar service and contemporary Hawaiian cuisine featuring the freshest of fish and succulent steaks crafted with a distinct island flair. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456, visit tidepoolskauai.com or book online at opentable.com.

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WAILUA - EAST SIDE KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT Authentic Korean food with great Korean BBQ like galbi, chicken and pork served with soup, kimchee, vegetables and rice. Delicious Korean plates like shrimp tempura, Korean chicken, Mahi or meat jun (marinated mahi or ribeye dipped in egg and fried), bi bim bap (rice bowl with veggies and your choice of meat) and favorites like katsu, fried rice, noodles and dumplings all reasonably priced. Open Mon.-Sun. 11am-9pm. Kinipopo Shopping Village in Wailua. 4-356 Kuhio Hwy Building #E. (808) 823-6744. NAUPAKA TERRACE Inspired by the natural beauty of the Garden Island, Kauai Beach Resort creates unforgettable dining experiences that delight your senses. Indulge in delicious island specialties, fresh seafood, refreshing tropical drinks and live music as you gaze at the 80

coastline and sparkling ocean. Dine on island cuisine at Naupaka Terrace, one of the top restaurants on Kaua‘i, enjoy a poolside snack at Driftwood Bar & Grille, and enjoy refreshing drinks and island music nightly at Shutters Lounge. Located at the Kauai Beach Resort. Call (808) 245-1955. NORTH SHORE NALU KAI GRILL AND BAR Enjoy light Hawaiian influenced cuisine and sophisticated tropical libations in the shade of our gazebo or in the privacy of our dining cabanas. Should your preference be relaxing poolside soaking up the Hawaiian sunshine we feature a special poolside menu. Indulge the refinement of our unique offerings at the bar while enjoying breathtaking views overlooking Hanalei bay. Located at The St. Regis Princeville Resort. KAUAI GRILL A comfortable yet elegant hideaway—signature Jean-Georges sophistication realized far from home. Sweeping views of Hanalei bay and Bali Hai surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences from Michelin awarded Jean-George Vongerichten. Kauai Grill combines a curated selection of JeanGeorges’ greatest appetizers, side dishes and

accompaniments from his portfolio of domestic and international restaurants around the world with the highest quality of meats and freshest local fish available. Simply grilled preparations accompanied by bold condiments anchor the Kauai Grill experience at The St. Regis Princeville. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-10pm. For reservations call (808) 826-9644. MAKANA TERRACE Overlooking magical Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain is the main dining room at The St. Regis Princeville Resort, Makana Terrace, the perfect venue for sophisticated casual all day dining. The menus showcase the freshest Hawaiian grown produce flawlessly represented in the dishes prepared by the Executive Chef and his culinary team. On Wednesdays, The Mailani dinner experience captures the essence of Halele’a, through chant, hula and storytelling. Journey with us overlooking Hanalei Bay as we reveal the mystery of this special place. Mailani, is an elegant Hawaiian dining experience that honors the culture and traditions of Kaua’i. Dinner ThursdayMonday, Wednesdays for Mailani, Dinner Show. Located at The St. Regis Princeville Resort. Call (808) 826-2746 for reservations. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: IAN MCGUIRE

LĪHU‘E KUKUI’S Features a Pacific Rim gourmet buffet in an outdoor setting, plus American and local specialties. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Located poolside at the Marriott Kaua‘i Beach Resort. Located at 3610 Rice Street. Call (808) 245-5050.

GRAND S T E V E N S O N ’ S L I B R A R Y AT G R A N D H YAT T K A U A I — Poipu’s luxury nightspot offers sweeping views, scrumptious sushi, inventive cocktails, tropical drinks, aged whiskies, cognacs and ports. Sushi rolled nightly 6:00-10:00pm. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com.

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW

Warm your spirit and palate with a piping hot bowl of fiery ramen at Eating House 1849 and experience pure joy of eating local comfort food. An elegant take on traditional cuisine originating from Japan, the 1849 Spicy Ramen Bowl is a favorite at the plantation-inspired dining establishment. The recipe was developed by Hawai‘i’s legendary chef, Roy Yamaguchi, and features a rich yummy broth combining pork and chicken stock blended together with a sensational sesame sauce. The specialty is saturated with Yamaguchi’s culturally influenced AsianPacific flavors such as kakuni-style (Japanese braised) pork belly and Big Island ground pork soaked in peppery soy. Shrimp dumplings, bean sprouts, charred tomato, egg, crispy garlic, negi (Japanese bunching onion), rayu (chili oil) and toasted shiro goma (white sesame seed) provide this dish with the perfect kick and right amount of zest to make this a harmoniously flavorful meal. The eclectic mix of ingredients and pleasant jolt of spices make this unique meal a must-have for anyone who loves ramen or is seeking some comfort food—Hawaiian style. Eating House 1849 By Roy Yamaguchi is located upstairs at The Shops at Kukuiÿula in Po‘ipü. Call (808) 742-5000 or visit EatingHouse1849.com. 82

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HAWAIIAN SOUL FOOD

YOUR TA S T E B U D S DESERVE A V A C AT I O N .

Enjoy local and responsibly sourced ingredients at all six restaurants,

as well as farm to table menus, legendary steak and seafood dishes, myhawaiitraveler.com light and healthy options, and of course, delectable desserts.

Kauai Marriott Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining selections range from casual oceanside cocktails and snacks to true ďŹ ne dining.

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CULINARY Q&A EXECUTIVE CHEF HUBERT DES MARAIS WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

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PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) IAN MCGUIRE

orn in Virginia and raised in North Carolina, Chef Hubert Des Marais’s culinary career began when he was a young man working at the Green Park Inn Hotel in Blowing Rock, North Carolina. During this summer job, the stringent chef he trained under taught him the values of professionalism, discipline, attention to detail, and the philosophy that “the guest always comes first.” With this solid foundation, Chef Des Marais has since traveled the globe working in esteemed kitchens while gathering a repertoire of worldly flavors that he folds into each new dish that he creates. Now the executive chef of The St. Regis Princeville Resort, Chef Des Marais oversees a large team and shoulders the responsibility of all dining activities at this luxury resort while working with the natural beauty found in local ingredients to help guests experience true flavors of the island.

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What are some of your earliest memories in the kitchen and how do you think they impacted your decision to become a chef? My earliest memories are sitting in the kitchen while watching my grandmother cook in her home in Lenoir, North Carolina. She was preparing the family meals with vegetables harvested from her gardens and she taught me the basics—how to respect everyone, how to garden, how to cultivate, and how to prepare food with passion. My grandmother was my greatest inspiration and the reason behind why I became a chef. Throughout your travels and different work experiences, what are some truths about cooking or food that you have learned? I have learned that the connection of cooking allows you to communicate even if you do not share the same spoken language. You can learn about the true culture of people and their environment by observing their culinary traditions, and I have learned that there is no greater compliment than being invited into someone’s home to enjoy their traditional family dishes. What are some challenges that you’ve encountered working in such a remote place such as Kauaÿi? Seasonal weather affects many things due to our location in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and rough seas can prevent inter-island and mainland shipments from reaching us. The weather also affects the availability of local fish while major wind and heavy rain affects our more delicate leafy items such as lettuces. 86

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) IAN MCGUIRE; (BOTTOM/OPPOSITE) THE ST. REGIS PRINCEVILLE RESORT

What does a typical workday look like for you? I begin my days at 4:30am and focus on prioritizing what needs to be accomplished for today and the future. A good leader must have balance prioritizing what needs to be done to benefit our guests, our colleagues, our families, and ourselves. When I arrive in my kitchen, I greet everyone with genuine aloha and inspect all areas for cleanliness and organization. I then approve all food purchases and I meet with my team to plan the day by reviewing occupancy, scheduling, VIP guests, and create new menu items or daily specials. Throughout the day, I check all of our restaurant outlets and meet with colleagues to handle issues that may arise, and, if I am fortunate and things are running smoothly, I am home in time to cook dinner for my wife. With such long days, how would you spend your day off? My ideal day off would be spent with some time on the water either fishing or swimming. I would also want to relax with my wife and have a lovely meal either at home or out at one of our favorite restaurants. What are some of your culinary goals over the next year at The St. Regis Princeville Resort? My culinary goal over the next year is to make our restaurants Five-Star and Five Diamond. I want our winning team to be inspired every day from their hearts to give the highest level of service to our guests. What are some dishes you recommend guests try when dining at The St. Regis Princeville Resort? Each of our dining establishments offers something different for guests to enjoy. The Nalu Kai Grill and Bar poolside dining venue offers great burgers, fresh poke bowls, and fresh fish tacos in a casual setting overlooking the spectacular Hanalei Bay. When guests join us at the Makana Terrace, I recommend a dish of our locally sourced seafood, as it is this restaurant’s specialty. At The St. Regis Bar, I would recommend our fresh sashimi like the Kona Kampachi Sashimi with yuzu dressing, creamy avocado, and sliced serrano peppers or the Sunset Surfboard Platter of assorted sushi. Kauai Grill is our more formal dining restaurant known for simple preparations of the finest seasonal ingredients and their Grilled Lamb Chops with mushroom Bolognese and fresh asparagus is always a great entrée choice. What philosophy do you adhere to when running your kitchen? Outstanding food begins with the passion of all our chefs, using the freshest, locally sourced ingredients to make creative dishes. My philosophy is to create a positive environment where ideas and art through food is top of mind every day. Attention to detail makes the difference between a good kitchen and a great kitchen. My motto is to ‘Inspect what you expect.’ myhawaiitraveler.com

THE

HOT SPOT

LOVE & TACOS A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN

Faun first set eyes on her neighbor when she was fifteen. They married when she was twenty-three. Then, she became the coproprietor of a food truck, at the young age of twenty-seven. This is the story of Faun Lewis and Paulino Hernandez Garcia, who own and operate the Al Pastor Tacos food truck on Kaua‘i’s east side. Faun’s dream for her husband was to get him out of the restaurant kitchen where he spent most of his time and into another kitchen with an ocean view. That is how their taco truck came to be opened January 25, 2012, across the parking lot from Otsuka’s on Kühiö Highway in Kapa‘a, just steps away from the Keälia oceanside bike path. Before Al Pastor Tacos came trucking along, locals could only daydream of eating delicious fish tacos rivaling the best found on the Baja California Peninsula after a hard day of play. The food truck was named from the al pastor (meaning “shepherd style”) method of roasting marinated pork, popular in Mexico City, on a vertical rotisserie framed by heat grills, which constantly fire the meat. This type of cooking was brought to Mexico by the Lebanese who immigrated from the late 19th century through the 1930s. The Middle Eastern dish, lamb 88

WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON

shawarma, is the inspiration behind Mexican’s adapting the technique to pork. Faun describes marinating the pork overnight “using chiles and garlic” and building their “al pastor stack on the machine at the truck, fresh everyday.” The device resembles the rotisserie used for roasting the meat for gyros (a flatbread wrap popular on the mainland originating in Greece). The result is a dish that resembles “crispy bacon in a taco with huge flavors,” that, traditionally, must always be served with pineapple. The astute business (and life) partners were the first to prepare pork in this style on the island. It won over the locals immediately, who tend to fawn over the meat items while the tourists go all in for the fish tacos. One of the biggest sellers is lengua (beef tongue) tacos. Chefs appreciate tongue as one of the cleanest parts of the cow, and prepared correctly, for being extraordinarily tender. Even though Faun and Paulino try to source locally, they have had to order tongue from Maui to supplement the few available from local ranchers each week. Steak tacos are another of the local favorites. The appetite of tourists for the island catch is so large that it takes KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: RENE COTE

somewhere between 200 and 250 pounds each week of fresh fish to meet the demand for fish tacos. Al Pastor Tacos is a huge hit because they start with high quality ingredients including the freshest fish and handle their products with care. With deep roots in the community, the couple depend on local fishermen who are family and friends. The couple credit Frank Medeiros, a fisherman with 40 years experience, and Travis Caberto and Valaka, who have 15 years each. These fishermen troll for fish, equipping two lines with bait fish and lures, pulling the lines through the water behind the boat until they get a bite. Trolling is the preferred environmental method because it succeeds in actually catching the desired fish, allows for release of the rest, and limits hooking bycatch. It is also a traditional way of fishing in the Hawaiian Islands, especially for large fish. Indeed, mythologically speaking, the demi-god Mäui while trolling for fish hooked a slab of rock and pulled up the islands. Working so closely with a few knowledgeable fishermen, the restaurant is able to have the pick of the best and is able to rely on experts who can spot problems like “burning;” this term indicates muscular damage to the fish when it undergoes too much stress, a condition that affects the taste. When it comes to the beloved ÿahi (yellowfin tuna), Al Pastor buys fish under 150 pounds, because as Faun points out, “the smaller they are, the better and fresher tasting.” Moreover, smaller fish typically have not lived long enough to accumulate the mercury content of larger fish. When ono (wahoo) and mahi-mahi (dolphinfish) are available, they are included as the “catch of the day.” The fishermen bring their catch to the food truck’s certified kitchen early in the morning, and Paulino always breaks down the fish himself. In two or three days, another fish is needed, which accounts for an online description of “the fish being so fresh, it jumps off the plate.” As important, the simple, grilled-to-order preparation and light seasoning highlight the taste of the fish. Whereas Baja-style fish tacos are typically fried, ÿahi is the predominant fish on the island, and locals prefer it to be served raw in poke (raw-fish salad) or cooked towards rare. The food truck also offers garlic shrimp tacos, but these days wild shrimp are in short supply on the island. Nonetheless, the fishermen deliver the ocean shrimp they are able to catch, a real delicacy since restaurants tend to serve farmed shrimp. Arrive early for the shrimp before they sell out. Customer reviews online are filled with favorable comments about how attentive Faun is to customers. True to form, the always smiling food truck wahine (lady) noted that some customers preferred paper to styrofoam myhawaiitraveler.com

containers. Eventually, they went over to paper altogether to respond to her customer base and pursue environmentally-conscious practices, as can be seen in the recycle bins next to the truck. The island vegans and vegetarians have also been heard. Al Pastor Tacos prepares lard-free beans to suit their tastes. Regulars know that they do not even have to order as their preferences are already known when they show up at the window. Faun describes herself as “the heart of the service” and her chef husband as “the heart of the food.” From the start, the business was founded on aloha (love and compassion) with the intention of taking care of their ÿohana (extended family bound by mutual caring). In 2016, an article in USA Today by Marla Cimini recognized Al Pastor Tacos as one of fifteen food trucks nationally (and the only one in Hawai‘i) for “spinning comfort classics.” For years now, Al Pastor Tacos has not only been recognized as a premier food truck of Kaua‘i, but also as a premier eatery for good food. Returning after 16 years, Paulino, along with his wife, were able to visit his family in Oaxaca, Mexico in 2016, a trip he now makes once a year especially to see his mother. He is able to give support to his family helping with medical and educational expenses. Faun, who studied social work on the mainland for two years until she had to return to the island because her father was ill, makes it her mission to do outreach to the community, especially with young people. She sees the food truck as a chance to employ young teens and family members, to “train them how to work hard, learn the value of money and to save their money.” She understands the importance of “just letting them know they always have someone to talk to.” With both parents of Hawaiian descent and having been born on the Big Island, lived on Oÿahu and moved to Kaua‘i in 1992, Faun holds close to Hawaiian traditional values. It is easy to see why she is everyone’s favorite aunty. Faun did not speak Spanish when she first met her neighbor, Oaxacan Paulino, whose city in Mexico is a tourist draw for its internationally acclaimed cuisine. He did not speak English. With the help of a Spanish dictionary, they started their adventure. She says he was “heaven-sent” after the death of her mother. First came love, then came marriage, then came the food truck and a true Kaua‘i story of food from the heart. Al Pastor Tacos is open daily from 11am to 4pm and located across the parking lot from Otsuka’s on Kühiö Highway in Kapaÿa. Call (808) 652-6953 for more information. 89

GO BOLD

Soulful wines for the season WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

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hanging seasons can also bring a change in the preference of wines we reach for and cooler weather heralds a time when crisp summer wines are set aside for bigger, bolder wines adding warmth to the body and dinner table. Along with wines that are concentrated and flavorful, cooler months also welcome wines that carry special stories to be shared as they are poured adding context and memorability to the wine. While fragrant rosé from Southern France is often the rage during summer months, the same area also produces fleshy, opulent reds enjoyed when the temperatures begin to dip. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an appellation located within the Southern Rhône region of France, was recognized as a wine-growing region in 1933, however the area’s history with wine goes much farther back. Early settlements first focused on agriculture, but the region underwent change when Pope Clement V relocated the papacy to Avignon in the 14th century, located on the left bank of the Rhône River. A lover of wine, he brought vines to the area and elevated viticulture in the new seat of papal power, which became known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or “The Pope’s New Castle.” Originally, 10 varietals were allowed in wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape but that number now stands at 18 permissible varietals. The region also adheres to strict appellation rules including a minimum alcohol content of 12.5% and restricted yield limits per vine to encourage concentrated flavors. As a rule, no vineyard is created if the area is not arid enough to sustain lavender and thyme—two herbs that contribute to the garrigue (French for scrub or scrubland) scent that lingers in the background palate of many wines from the area. The 2015 Domaine de la Janasse “Tradition” ($40/bottle; klwines.com) pops brightly with raspberry, touches of dark chocolate, and interesting flashes of herbaceousness of shiso (perilla leaf) balanced with traditional flavors of the region like dark cherries, black tea, and hints of black pepper. The favorable myhawaiitraveler.com

weather conditions of 2015 resulted in a vintage that was capable of reaching its ripest maturity resulting in a lush, flavorful wine with aging potential. For a wine so bold and palatable, a dish like Asianinspired braised short ribs would offer enough substance in terms of flavor and weight to avoid being outdone by such a commanding wine. Ribs marinated in a blend of sweet brown sugar, zesty garlic, and savory shoyu (soy sauce) commands a wine with layered nuisance as in the “Tradition.” The wine’s finish of shiso will complement the Asian spices and herbs in the marinade and the silkiness of this wine’s tannins presents enough structure while not domineering the tenderness of the slow-cooked meat. Cooler months also encourage many to move their bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon out of their cellars and enjoy the spicy and succulent “king of grapes.” While famous from regions such as France and California, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon has been gaining traction over the past decade for its bold, assertive nature. Vines were first planted in Chile around 1540, but viticulture did not take off until the mid-1800s following a boom of wealth from mineral harvesting in the Atacama Desert. It became fashionable for the wealthy to vacation in France and bring home cuttings of vines to replant in Chile. Dark, fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon paired wonderfully with the conditions of regions of the Maipo Valley, which remains Chile’s largest wine region to this day. Here, warm days allow grapes to receive all the warmth possible from the sun and reach their full sugar ripeness while the dramatic drop in temperatures at night ensures bright acidity will remain in the grapes creating balance in the finished wine. Founded in 1883 with vines from Bordeaux, Concha y Toro vineyards is one of the largest producers of wine in South America and their 2015 Marques de Casa Concha ($19/bottle; wine.com) is a prime example of stellar Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. Ruby red in color and concentrated with dark fruits and firm tannins, this bottling begs for a pairing that features a flavorful sauce besieged with spices. Magic occurs when pairing this wine with a dish like succulent roast chicken served alongside a port wine and fig reduction as the dried figs and lemon zest in the sauce playfully pair with flavors of juicy, red cherries and currants found swirling in this wine. The cedar, smoke, and velvety finish of this bottle pairs sumptuously with moist, roasted chicken while enhancing each savory bite and its maturation in American oak casks adds a round vanilla element to the pairing adding levity to this food and wine pairing. 92

While big, bold reds are mainstays at dinner tables during winter months, sweet whites also have a role at dinner parties and can aid with difficult pairings or exotic dishes. When faced with a problematic pairing, many sommeliers turn to the internationally adored aromatic white grape, Riesling, which originated in the Rhine region of Germany, but shines in the Finger Lakes region of New York. The first vines in the Finger Lakes were grown in 1829 by an Episcopalian minister in his rectory garden and, over the upcoming decades, more grapes were grown in the region, but it wasn’t until 1982 that official American Viticultural Area (AVA) status was awarded to the Finger Lakes region. The Finger Lakes AVA is often compared to German wine regions along the Rhine River for its similar latitude situations along the globe and, as in Germany, the Riesling grape is a large player in Finger Lakes whose microclimates and glacier-sculpted landscapes provide ideal growing conditions for this grape. One very special style of wine famous from Finger Lakes is ice wine (eiswein in German) produced during superior vintages when the grapes and weather conditions come together to create highly-prized dessert wine. The tedious process of creating ice wine begins in the vineyard when grapes are hand-picked during early morning hours before grapes are allowed to thaw. The water in the grapes, now in the form of ice, is removed by an immediate pressing allowing the pure nectar from the grapes to be extracted resulting in a concentrated and aromatic juice that is turned into wine. The 2016 Wagner Vineyards Riesling Ice Wine ($25/375 mL bottle; wagnervineyards.com) presents a luxurious and full-bodied rendition of ice wine exploding with citrus and pineapple fruitiness combined with a zesty acidity and silk-like mouthfeel. While often paired with sweet desserts like apple tarts or custards, another exciting way to enjoy ice wine is when served as an aperitif or paired with appetizers like salted nuts, creamy cheeses, and even olive tapenade. The exciting flavors of rich garlic, briny olives, and salty anchovies can prove to be a difficult pairing, but the contrasting flavors from this ice wine provides palate cleansing bursts of citrus between bites and the generous amounts of sweetness found in this wine mellows the intense flavors. Whether enjoyed quietly at home or poured at a gathering with friends, the flavorful and intense wines we select during the cooler months of the year can help contribute to the significance and memorability of an evening. Thus, selecting one with both flavor and soul are important keys when choosing a bottle to enjoy. Cheers! KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL COMFORT FOOD

A SATISFYING CULTURAL EXPERIENCE 94

WORDS HADLEY CATALANO

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What is it about comfort food that always makes us feel good and hits the culinary spot in our hearts? There is nothing more satiating when you are ravenous after a long day playing in the surf or kayaking Wailua River or trekking the many trails of Waimea Canyon. The comfort foods of Hawai‘i, or local grindz as we call it, are oversized portions of multiethnic and hybrid dishes. You can forget about counting calories, as local cuisine never fails to be hearty and sinfully delicious. For the newbies looking for a little “in,” we’re here to provide an overview of the most popular local food dishes. Any hole-in-the-wall diner, mom-and-pop stand, food truck, or Hawaiian barbeque kitchen will customarily prepare the best comfort food on the island. These robust foods continue to be staple menu items for one reason—they’re incredibly good. Let’s begin with breakfast. Check out any local dining spot including McDonald’s and your morning wake-up call will start with a plethora of meat options, canned or un-canned, usually including choices of Portuguese sausage, link sausage, bacon— and, of course, the much loved SPAM also known as “Hawaiian steak.” Take your pick of one (or more) of these meats and add sides of “two scoops” of white rice, eggs and toast. This assortment is a filling way to start the day and definitely won’t leave you hungry. Another breakfast favorite would be savory fried rice. You will find that there are many restaurants and diners that claim to be “home of the best fried rice in Hawai‘i.” You be the judge. The usual mix of white rice, breakfast meats, eggs, vegetables and Asian-inspired sauces are combined to create a meal that will leave your taste buds happy. myhawaiitraveler.com

For those with no time to sit and dine, we recommend the wildly popular SPAM musubi. Praised for its portability and flavorsome qualities, musubis are a culmination of local foods rolled into one. While recipes vary, the typical musubi includes grilled SPAM that is cooked plain or with teriyaki sauce. The SPAM, sometimes with a fried egg and furikake (sesame seeds and seaweed flakes), is placed either on top or sandwiched between layers of white rice before being wrapped in nori (thin sheet of seaweed). It’s much like a larger version of sushi except the high quality raw fish is substituted with processed canned meat. For those not too keen on SPAM, musubis are also made with varieties of other meats including chicken, beef, fish and hot dogs. Hungry goers can easily pick up this affordable meal (usually around $2) at any convenience store or grocery deli. When it comes to lunchtime, there is one thing that is synonymous with local island cuisine—plate lunch. When standing in line at a local barbeque restaurant, you will 96

most commonly see the title Plate Lunch with dozens of yummy food options listed. Don’t be intimidated—be excited. Derived from Hawai‘i’s multiethnic fusion of cultures, plate lunches are basically tasty dishes from varied ethnic groups, portioned into one meal. The common choices from Japanese chicken katsu (panko-breaded chicken) and teriyaki beef to kälua pork (Hawaiian smoked pork) and laulau (fish or pork steamed in ti leaves) or Korean kalbi (short ribs) serve as entrée options. Choose one main dish or combine multiple—the options are usually endless. “Two scoops rice” and “one scoop macaroni salad” always accompany the traditional plate lunch, as rice is the essential starch while macaroni salad also presents a counterpart to the main courses. But these are only a few of the many entrées, as restaurants are constantly cooking up tasty meals to please the locals. Don’t be surprised to see plate lunches at all times of the day either—they are also popular dinner options as well. If a plate lunch seems like too much food for you, go for KAUA‘I TRAVELER

the saimin. This noodle soup dish derives from traditional Japanese cuisine developed during the island’s plantation days of the early 1900s. The soup features wheat noodles in a hot broth of dashi (Japanese-style broth). Add won bok cabbage, mustard cabbage, green onion, kamaboko (Japanese cured seafood product) and egg to make it a more satisfying meal. Saimin is a warm and comforting dish, perfect for cool evenings, rainy days or just about anytime. But the mother of all island favorites is the loco moco, a combination of several food items that you probably wouldn’t consider pairing. While there are a number of variations of this meal, the conventional recipe calls for a serving of white rice topped with a grilled hamburger patty, a fried egg and smothered with brown gravy. While this may not sound appealing, the flavors blend to create a taste that is exceptionally delicious and super filling—just make sure to be near a sofa when the food coma hits you. Another monumental local favorite is poke; the traditional Hawaiian fish dish that has become a staple here myhawaiitraveler.com

in the islands and even made its way onto menus across the mainland. Fresh, raw island fish like ‘ahi (yellowfin tuna) is cubed and marinated in sea salt, soy sauce, sesame oil, limu (seaweed) and chopped chili peppers or diced onions for a healthier choice to comfort food. While this is just one version of the preparation, poke can be made in various ways. Traditional Hawaiian-style includes just the basic ingredients of sea salt and limu. Over the years, Asian influences, local vegetables and a wide variety of other fishes have contributed to the many different recipes like kimchee tako (octopus) poke, spicy ‘ahi and marlin poke. Opt for a poke bowl for a more satisfying meal. So whether sitting in a tucked away diner or stopping at one of the Hawaiian barbeque chains, the options for local grindz are endless. Enjoy the many different flavors and ethnic dishes all fused into one “plate lunch.” These foods are a true taste of Hawai‘i’s local culture and sure to satisfy.

DESTINATIONS

EAST KAUA‘I The East Side of Kaua‘i is often referred to as the Royal Coconut Coast. Appropriately named, considering the royal history and the abundance of ancient coconut groves from Wailua to Kapa‘a. Back in the 1300s, this area was called Kawaihau (the ice water), and it was the location of choice for Hawai‘i’s royalty. Kawaihau is mainly divided into four areas: Wailua, Kapa‘a, Waipouli and Ke‘alia. The kings chose Wailua to be the capital of Kaua‘i. High chiefs believed that the area around the mouth of the Wailua River was sacred and called it Wailua Nui Hoano or Great Sacred Wailua. This sacred area extended two miles up the Wailua River. Seven heiau (shrine) were built in an arc from the shores of Wailua up Mount Wai‘ale‘ale ending on the Westside of Kaua‘i. Royalty would come to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the birthstones of Holoholok‘u. When a king was born, a kahuna (priest) would take the child up the mountain to a bell stone. He would strike the bell stone with a rock, sounding the birth of a new king. No commoner was allowed in this area unless they were servicing a chief. You can view the birthstones and five different heiau at the Wailua River State Park. Please remember that this is a special place of worship and needs to be treated with respect. Do not leave offerings or move any rocks. Below the Wailua River State Park is Lydgate Beach. Two rock-lined seawater pools make it a haven for year round swimming. Above Wailua Park is Wailua homesteads. Here you will find many hiking trails and freshwater swimming holes. 98

Waipouli (dark water) is a little town between Wailua and Kapa‘a. Before all of the commercial development, Hawaiian royalty used this area to set sail to other locations in the Pacific. Due to the sudden popularity of fractional ownership, Waipouli is now a mile-long strip of shops and modern conveniences. Old Kapa‘a Town is the remnant of an old plantation town. Most of the buildings have been renovated and filled with boutiques, bars and restaurants, making Kapa‘a a hip little hot spot. Although, there are many beach parks in the area, be very careful about swimming here. The East Shore is best known for fishing, and the rocky shoreline can be very dangerous during high tide. As the locals say, “Never turn your back to the ocean.” If you’re driving north from Kapa‘a town, you will come across a large crescent shaped, golden sand beach called Keälia. The Kapa‘a Stream flows across the south end of the beach. You may see kayakers paddling in the stream or people rinsing off after a salty dip in the ocean. The area around the beach was once a 2,000-acre sugar plantation. Today, in an effort to preserve our agricultural past, Plantation Partners have converted the area into the largest agricultural subdivision on the island. Today the Coconut Coast is lined with newly renovated resorts, spas, condominiums and residences. They provide a getaway for travelers from around the globe.

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PHOTO COURTESY: KENT CHASTAIN; (OPPOSITE)RENEE COTE

THE ROYAL COCONUT COAST

COWS IN PARADISE RKL Ranch raises the bar for better beef Perched upon the hilltop in Keälia is RKL Ranch, a cattle company owned and operated by newlyweds, Russell and Kristen Leong. It’s where they come to find solace after a long day as well as do their part to help Kauaÿi take the farm-to-table movement one step further by keeping their beef closer to home. The atmosphere is serene at this eastside ranch and so are the cattle that meander the pastures unfazed by human presence, including a rather large bull that doesn’t seem to mind anyone’s close proximity. The some 650-acre plot of land where the Leongs raise about 200 mother cows has been part of their success of the business, which has already gained epic momentum since opening earlier this year. What has really set their operation apart from others is that all of their livestock are 100% USDA local grass-fed beef. This means the meat has more omega-3 fatty acids, less total fat, as well as a heartier dose of antioxidant vitamins, such as vitamin E, and conjugated linoleic acid, a type of fat that is said to reduce heart disease and cancer. Moreover, no hormones or additives are used. And a huge plus is that all of the cattle remain on island throughout the entire process so you can get high quality meats fresh from their farm to your kitchen. 100

WORDS COCO ZICKOS

Rather than shipping the animals off island for harvesting as most cattle raised in Hawai‘i are, RKL Ranch rounds up their livestock every two weeks and takes them to Andrades Slaughterhouse and Cattle Company on Kaua‘i and to local butcher, Adrian Pu‘u. After chilling, the meat returns to the Leongs at which point the various cuts are taken straight to farmers markets for sale—the entire procedure is as low impact and as fresh as it gets. “It aligned perfectly with our mission to help Kaua‘i be self-sustainable,” says Kristen. “Keeping our hardearned dollars in the pockets of our local community.” They offer traditional cuts like top and bottom sirloin, tenderloin medallions, osso buco shanks, stew meat, ground beef, flap, flank and skirts. Additionally, they have premier cuts such as tomahawk and Delmonico steaks—all perfect opportunities for creating a sensational and elegant meal to make any evening special whether in a residential home or vacation rental. What’s more, they sell homemade beef jerky without any preservatives in a variety of flavors. The beef chips come in four different seasonings: teriyaki, Hawaiian chili pepper, adobo, and summer blend. And the sticks, which are a little softer, are either KAUA‘I TRAVELER

teriyaki or spicy teriyaki. The idea to develop the product came about after Russell dried some leftover marinated sliced teriyaki beef. “My husband loves to cook and create different recipes,” says Kristen. After tasting his creation, Kristen says, “…a light bulb went on.” They made several more batches and conferred with family and friends that it was a winning product and the edibles have since sold themselves. “People tell us we make ‘beef crack,’” jokes Kristen. “That’s satisfaction to me.” She adds that while her husband is the cook and comes up with the recipes, she does her best to help, but admits it’s not the same. “Sometimes it’s better off if I don’t try,” she says with a laugh that’s so infectious you can’t help but join her. Dehydrated bananas and eggs are among the other products that the Leongs sell at the Keälia, Kaua‘i Community Market, and Coconut Marketplace farmers markets each week. “It feels so good to be able to support local hardworking hands that we can have eye contact with and also be able to feed our family with healthier, not processed, food options,” says Kristen. “Like our motto says, ‘Shake your farmer’s hand!’” The dynamic duo also has plans to open a storefront, “The Meat House,” in Kapa‘a where they will sell local meats, vegetables and their cage-free eggs. It’s also their dream to offer grab-and-go pre-made lunches and püpü (appetizers) that people can take to work or the beach. But their main endeavor is to continue offering fresh, healthy beef at reasonable prices. “For our families’ dinner tables,” says Kristen. While there aren’t more peaceful moments than at the ranch, maintaining such a quality product doesn’t come without its challenges and arduous work. Russell also works full-time for his family’s construction business and after clocking in an 8-hour day, he either helps his wife and her children at farmers markets, prepares beef jerky or visits the ranch to make sure everything is running smoothly. But despite the busy days and having to juggle family time, they both love the lifestyle. “It’s what we do; it’s fun too,” he says. Russell and Kristen Leong, who the ranch is named after and who also enter team roping competitions together at rodeos around the island, are excited to see how their business will continue to grow. “We can’t change the world, but at least we can do our part,” says Kristen. RKL Ranch products are available on Mondays and Fridays at Keälia Farmers Market from 3pm to 6pm. On Saturdays, RKL Ranch is at the Kauaÿi Community Market located on the front lawn and parking lot at Kauaÿi Community College in Lïhuÿe from 9:30am to 1pm; on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Coconut Marketplace in Kapaÿa from 9am to 1pm. Visit kauaiproducemarketplace.com or RKL Ranch’s Instagram page for more information. myhawaiitraveler.com

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KAUA‘I BEACHES

HANALEI BAY

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SAND + SURF NORTH SHORE ‘ANINI BEACH PARK

This beautiful white sand beach has one of the largest coral reefs in Hawai‘i and has some of the best snorkeling in Kaua‘i for all levels. Swimming is among the safest in the North Shore, and a good place to learn how to windsurf. You can see magnificent sunsets from here. Grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy. Turn west on second Kalihiwai Rd between 25 and 26 mile markers. Take ‘Anini Road to beach.

HĀ‘ENA STATE PARK

This long stretch of white sand beach with a protective coral reef is a great snorkeling spot with a variety of colorful tropical fish when the water is calm. This is also a great place to beachcomb, surf, windsurf and fish. You can explore nearby sea caves carved out more than 4,000 years ago when the sea was higher. Camping, showers and restrooms are available. Located at the end of Kühiö Hwy.

HANALEI BAY

One of the most majestic places on earth, this spot is also a great place to learn to surf, frolic in the water, jump off the pier, or just enjoy the incredible scenery. The sunsets are spectacular and the moonlight over Hanalei Bay is magical. There are four beach parks included in the two-mile sandy crescent shaped bay, and all have lifeguards on duty except Waikoko Beach. Black Pot Park is located next to the Hanalei River mouth, with tropical foliage along the river’s edge, and is a local gathering place with a variety of water activities. The Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park is a popular spot for picnics. The water is generally calmer near the pier. Wai‘oli Beach Park is near the center of the bay, set in an ironwood grove. Waikoko Beach is located on the westernmost section, and is protected by Waikoko Reef, so it’s popular with snorkelers and families. Picnic area, tables, pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Located off Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Access beaches off Aku Rd or Weke Rd.

KA‘AKA‘ANIU “LARSEN’S” BEACH

This long, narrow ribbon of sand and shallow reef lies at the foot of a series of low hills and pastures. A protecting reef offers excellent snorkeling for the experienced, but only when the ocean is calm. Poor visibility in the water can occur in the late summer. Beware of its rocky bottom and dangerous rip currents, 104

and stay away from the channels. This secluded beach is also a good place to beachcomb and fish. There are two small pockets of sand on the opposite side of Pakala Point. No lifeguard and no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near the 20-mile marker, take Ko‘olau Rd. Take the left Beach Access Rd. to the end. Walk through the gate and follow the trail down.

KALIHIWAI BEACH

This wide sandy beach fringed with ironwood trees at the head of scenic Kalihiwai Bay is popular with boogie boarders and beginner surfers. Swimming is generally good in the summer. One of the nicest surfing breaks on the North Shore in the winter brings the more experienced out to this beach. Wide, shallow sand bar enables body boarders to ride decent waves in the front part of the beach. High surf periods create dangerous swimming conditions. Located off Kühiö Hwy west of Kïlauea on Kahihiwai Rd.

KAUAPEA “SECRET” BEACH

This exquisite, long and wide sandy beach with great views of Lighthouse Point is stunning. Swimming and snorkeling can be good when the ocean is calm. Swimming can be hazardous, so observe the ocean before entering. Look for the small waterfall flowing over the side of the cliff. You can see Moku‘ae‘ae Island, which is a bird sanctuary. Located off Kuhio Hwy on the same turnoff as Kalihiwai Beach. Take a right onto the first dirt road, drive to the end of the road and park. The hike down takes about 10-15 minutes.

KAWEONUI (SEALODGE) BEACH

This pocket of white sand beach backed by cliffs is a great place to snorkel and see honu in calm ocean conditions or just be secluded from the rest of the world. Beware of dangerous entry and currents. Offshore is a surf break known as “Little Grass Shack.” Located off Kamehameha Rd. Access beach from the trail at Building A at the SeaLodge Resort.

KĒ‘Ē BEACH

The Thornbirds and Lord of the Flies were filmed at this exquisite and very popular beach. With views of the Näpali Coast, it is great for snorkeling and swimming in the protected lagoon in calm conditions. Snorkelers and scuba divers can expect to see teems of tropical fish and honu (green sea turtles) on calm, clear days. Stay inside the reef for calmer waters. Beware of

strong currents and dangerous waves breaking on rocks and ledges. The currents are deceptively strong even on days when the water looks calm, so it’s best to stay in the reef-protected lagoon. The beach gets crowded with hikers and beachgoers, so get there early for a parking space. You may want to stay for the magnificent Näpali sunsets from the point. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is from here. Bathrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located at the end of the road on Hwy 56.

LUMAHA‘I BEACH (BALI HAI)

One of the most stunning and most photographed beaches in Kaua‘i, it was made famous as the location for the movie South Pacific. This large, wide beautiful golden sand beach is popular with a background of verdant foliage cliffs. Swimming is not recommended here, since there is no protective reef barrier to guard you against the tumultuous sea. Dangers include powerful waves sweeping up unsuspecting beachgoers off the rocks into the sea, strong undertow and dangerous shorebreaks. It’s a great beach to sunbathe and take in the incredible scenery. Access to the western part of the beach is located off Hwy 560 at Wainiha near mile marker 5. The eastern part of the beach is separated by a lava rock of Lumaha‘i is Kahalahala Beach. In calm conditions (summer), this beach can be a picturesque beach to swim in crystal clear warm water and explore the tidepools. No facilities or lifeguards. Park in the dirt parking lot. To access, hike down a steep jungle trail from the top of the lookout.

MĀKUA “TUNNELS” BEACH

This is one of the best snorkeling beaches due to the wide-fringing reef with a huge variety of fish swimming around in the shallow inner and outer reefs. The exceptional beach is surrounded by gently sloping sand and is well protected with incredible mountain scenery popular with swimmers, surfers, windsurfers and beachcombers. The best snorkeling is in the center by the crescent shaped reef. Scuba divers can explore the underwater caverns near the shore. Beware of sharp reefs, rip currents and dangerous water conditions. No facilities at this beach, but the facilities at Hä‘ena State Park are nearby. Lifeguard on duty. Take one of two dirt roads off Hwy 56 north of Hanalei near the 8 mile marker.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MOLOA‘A BEACH

Surrounded by rolling hills, this beach is secluded and off the beaten path, with a wide crescent shaped sandy beach perfect for couples to catch a spectacular sunset or sunbathe, swim, snorkel and beachcomb. Be cautious of dangerous water conditions. The southeast side of the beach offers the best swimming and boogie boarding with plenty of shade. The beach is located where the Molo‘a (matted roots) Stream feeds into the bay. Located off Ko‘olau Rd. between mile markers 16 and 17. Take the narrow Moloa‘a Rd. to the end and follow the signs to the beach.

NĀPALI COAST PARK

About a two mile hike down from the Kalalau Trail is Hanakäpï‘ai Beach. The beach is beautiful but dangerous to swim. A difficult two mile hike inland near the stream leads to the waterfalls and a spectacular pool. Kalalau Beach is a long and wide sandy beach backed by sand dunes, located at the end of the trail (9 additional miles). There are other beautiful pristine beaches such as Miloli‘i Beach and Honopu Beach in the park, but they are only accessible by boat. Swimming and wading is dangerous due to strong currents and powerful waves at all the beaches in this awe-inspiring park. Camping is allowed with a permit. No lifeguard on duty. Access the beach from Kalalau Trail from Kë‘ë Beach at the end of Hwy 56.

PALI KE KUA (HIDEAWAYS)

Two beaches separated by a rocky point both have excellent snorkeling with a variety of tropical fish when the water is calm. Check ocean conditions carefully before entering for rip currents and do not enter when there is high surf. The large false kamani trees offer shade on the bed of coarse sand. People are scarce due to limited parking and hidden trail. Located off Ka Haku Rd. Take the path next to Pu‘u Poa tennis courts just before you reach the Princeville Hotel gatehouse and hike down to the beach.

PU‘U POA BEACH

Protected by a narrow reef offers great snorkeling with teems of colorful fish in crystal clear water. Safe when the surf is not high. The sandy beach is located directly below Princeville Hotel. Park at the small public parking lot. Take the beach access steps by the guardhouse at the hotel entrance.

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WAIAKALUA BEACH

A fabulous secluded beach with a long, fringing reef and shade along the sandy beach. Snorkeling and swimming can be good if the ocean is calm. There is a cool freshwater stream at the far end of the beach. Beware of dangerous rip currents, surges and high surf. Located off North Waiakalua Rd. Before the road ends, take the dirt road on the left side all the way to the end. Take the trail to the left and it’s the beach on the left. The beach on the right, past the Kepuhi Point is Waipakä Beach.

EAST SIDE ‘ALIOMANU BEACH

Pretty sandy beach shaded by ironwood trees and fringed by one of Kaua‘i’s longest reefs, this beach is a favorite of locals for gathering seaweed and spearfishing. Swimming can be safe in the lagoon when calm. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Aliomanu Rd.

ANAHOLA BEACH PARK

Grassy park with a beautiful sandy beach with good swimming conditions most of the time in the cove on the east side of the bay due to a large protective reef offshore. Snorkeling is good at the nearby reef; fishing and beachcombing are also good. The beach used mostly by locals is good for boogie board, body board and surf south of the old pier. The ironwood grove offers shade. Picnic tables, restrooms and showers are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Anahola Rd.

DONKEY (KUMUKUMU) BEACH

A fantastic long sandy beach in a cove at the base of a pasture named Donkey Beach because of the herd of mules that rested on the beach in the early plantation days. The waves draw in many surfers but it’s not a good beach for beginners. The winters yield high surf making swimming dangerous. Beware of steep entry, dangerous shorebreaks, strong currents and rocks submerged in the surf. Snorkeling can be good in a secluded cove north of the stream and over a small hill. No facilities or lifeguards. Located north of Kapa‘a ~ 1/2 mile north of the 11 mile marker off Hwy 56. Parking lot is at the top of the path to the beach. Hike 10 minutes to shoreline and take right for the beach; turn north and walk past the stream for the secluded cove.

FUJI BEACH (BABY BEACH)

Protected shallow section in the reef by a long, natural breakwater makes it a great place to have some water fun with the kids while you soak up the sun on the sandy beach. No facilities or lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy behind the Chevron in Kapa‘a.

KEĀLIA BEACH

A long, exquisite sandy beach with powerful waves makes it a great spot to watch experienced surfers and boogie boarders. Swimming can be done on calm days at the far northern end of the beach, which is protected by breakwater, but be careful of strong currents and sharp reefs. Public parking. Lifeguard on duty but no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near mile marker 10 north of Kapa‘a in Keälia.

LYDGATE STATE PARK

A scenic family beach that is very popular since it offers something for everyone including a park. There are two large lava pools great for children and offers safe swimming and snorkeling for beginners. Rock wall protects swimmers year-round and the ironwood groves provide shade. Kamalani playground has a wooden volcano; jungle gym and bright ceramic sea creatures adorn the playground. Picnic pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Leho Drive just south of the Wailua River.

NUKOLI‘I BEACH

Beautiful long narrow stretch of beach with shallow bottom offers an array of water activities. The beach stretches for miles to Lydgate Park swimming and snorkeling can be good in the well-protected reef and shallow waters when surf is calm. Fishing and surfing are also good here. Check ocean conditions before entering. There are more secluded beaches further north near Wailua Golf Coarse. Located at the end of Kaua‘i Beach Drive.

WAILUA BEACH

Long, wide golden sand beach near the Wailua River is good for taking a stroll or watching the experienced boogie boarders, surfers or watching the river flow into the sea. Swimming is dangerous due to strong rip currents and rough water. Children sometimes play near the river mouth when the currents aren’t strong. No facilities and no lifeguard. Located across from Coco Palms Resort. The beach is easily accessible when traveling north off Kühiö Hwy. 105

SAND + SURF WAIPŌULI BEACH

A long stretch of golden sand without crowds isn’t good for swimming since the ocean is rough and the coastline is rocky or reef, but it’s a great beach to watch windsurfers and fishermen pull in their catch. The beach has lots of hidden coves for seclusion and can be romantic. There is also a nice trail to jog while you take in the glorious scenery. Monk seals have been spotted quite frequently here. Located off Kühiö Hwy. There are many access points behind Coconut Marketplace.

LĪHU‘E & SOUTH SHORE BRENNECKE’S BEACH

A small sandy beach is popular with boogie boarders and honu. Waves tend to be bigger here in the summer than winter. Grassy area with picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. Located on Po‘ipü Rd.

HO‘AI (PRINCE KŪHIŌ) BEACH

A beautiful sandy crescent shaped beach with water protected by an offshore reef great for keiki and novice snorkelers when water is calm. This beach is popular for the honu (green sea turtles) and local fishermen who frequent the beach. Restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located off Läwa‘i Rd. in front of the Prince Kühiö Park.

HO‘ONA “BABY” BEACH

Great sandy beach for keiki (children) since the water is calm in a small cove behind off shore lava rocks. Access the beach using the walkway on Ho‘ona Rd. off Läwa‘i Rd.

KALAPAKĪ BEACH

This is a beautiful sandy crescent-shaped beach with tranquil water and a great place to learn to surf on the offshore break with great views of pali in the bay. It’s a great place to swim when conditions are calm. Beware of strong rip currents during high surf. Located off Rice St. west of Lïhu‘e in front of the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort and Beach Club. Park in the public parking lot at the hotel.

LĀWA‘I (BEACH HOUSE) BEACH

Small sandy beach is popular with snorkelers when the water is calm for the variety of fish in the offshore reef. It’s also a popular surfing spot for the waves that break offshore. Surfing competitions are held regularly here in spring thru fall. The small pocket of sand disappears in times of high surf. Beware of seasonal strong currents. The beach is located next to the Beach House Restaurant off Läwa‘i Rd.

MĀHĀ‘ULEPŪ BEACH

A long, beautiful and romantic beach with mountain vistas is a two mile sandy strand along a reef-protected shoreline and high sand dunes. The beauty of this beach was captured in the movie Islands in the Stream where George C. Scott played Ernest Hemingway. It’s good for swimming only during extreme calm conditions. Windsurfing, beachcombing and shoreline fishing are popular activities. This is a sacred site 106

for native Hawaiians and for endangered plants and species. No facilities and no lifeguards. Beach is closed from 7pm to 7:30am. Follow the cane road past Shipwreck Beach. Stop at the guard gate to get through.

NININI BEACHES

Ninini Beach and Running Waters Beach are hidden and out of the way beaches with pockets of sand separated by a lava rock formation. Protected and secluded, the beaches are good for snorkeling on calm days. Park across the street from the Kaua‘i Lagoons Golf Course or the clubhouse parking lot and follow path to beaches. Between Kalapakï beach and the lighthouse on Ninini Point near the 13th green.

PO‘IPŪ BEACH PARK

Po‘ipü Beach in the county park is nationally ranked and popular because the sunny weather and calm water that surrounds the chain of beautiful wide, white sandy beaches. An offshore reef causes the waves to break before they reach the shore making it a keikifriendly beach. Swimming and snorkeling are great between the offshore reef and the coast while the breaking waves outside the calm waters create surfing and boogie boarding opportunities. The protected beach area is great for novice snorkelers. Dangerous water conditions can occur during periods of high surf. Beginning surf lessons are available as well as a nearby playground. Lifeguards, picnic tables, pavilions, showers and restrooms are also available. Located off Po‘ipü Rd. south of Ho‘owili Rd.

SHIPWRECK (KEONELOA) BEACH

A lovely beach to sunbathe but not a good swimming beach due to dangerous ocean conditions is named for an old unidentified shipwreck. On the left is Makawehi Point where you will see fishermen surf casts and brave locals jumping into the sea as did Harrison Ford and Anne Heche from Six Days, Seven Nights. It’s a good beach for boogie boarding, surfing and windsurfing for the experienced. Showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located in front of the Hyatt. Take public access road between the Hyatt and the Po‘ipü Bay Resort Golf Course.

WEST SIDE BARKING SANDS BEACH

The beach is a continuation of the long white sand beach with superb vistas of Ni‘ihau and incredible sunsets. The name is due to the sound the sand sometimes makes when sliding down the 60’ high dunes along the beach but watch out for the thorns from the kiawe trees. Swimming is not recommended on this beach due to dangerous ocean conditions. Located between Kekaha Beach and Polihale Beach on the northern part of the Pacific Missiles Range off Kaumuali‘i.

KEKAHA BEACH PARK

This is the first beach of the series and is an exquisite long stretch of white sand with spectacular sunsets and many great surfing spots along the way. The

beach offers clear views of Ni‘ihau. This area is almost always sunny and shade is absent. Picnic area, grills, pavilions, showers and restrooms are available. Swimming can be extremely dangerous. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kaumuali‘i Hwy.

PĀKALĀ (INFINITIES) BEACH

The beach is picturesque and surrounded by lush tropical foliage and trees and a favorite spot for experienced surfers. This is not a good swimming beach due to murky water known for shark sightings and other dangerous ocean conditions, but it’s a great place to watch the locals surf and catch a magical sunset. The reef is called “Infinities” because it creates long perfect waves. Located by 21-mile marker off Hwy 50.

POLIHALE BEACH

The longest and widest stretch of beach in the Hawaiian Islands, this 7-mile white sandy beach is breathtaking and considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Kaua‘i. The name means, “a leaping off place for spirits” or “house of death”. The usually sunny beach is framed by the majestic Näpali Coast and has sweeping sand dunes that can get up to 100 feet high and you can catch amazing sunsets with views of Ni‘ihau. This remote area is a great place to stargaze. The only safe place to swim is in the Queen’s Pond where the fringing reef offers protection from the extremely strong currents when the surf isn’t high; beware of sharp coral. Picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguards. Camping by permit only. Located at end of Rte 50. Take left onto the bumpy dirt road and drive several miles. Follow signs to beach.

SALT POND BEACH PARK

The protected reef in this pretty crescent shaped beach with lots of palms is great for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing. Swimming is usually safe year round in the large lagoon and the sunsets are spectacular. Salt ponds are nearby where generations past made salt by evaporating seawater in red earthen pans and still do today. Please do not enter the salt-making area. The beach is also great for windsurfing, boogie boarding and exploring the tidepools. Lifeguard on duty. Picnic tables, pavilions, grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located in Hanapëpë. Take left turn on Lele past town off Kaumuali‘i Hwy and right on Lokokai Rd. to park. EDITOR’S NOTE: There is a wise saying in Hawai‘i, “Leave only footprints and take only memories.” Please take all your trash and don’t take anything that does not belong to you including those that belong to the sea. It’s best to leave your valuables at your hotel and not in your car, so the time can be spent relaxing and not worrying. Conditions change with the seasons, so take the time to evaluate the sea and read the beach safety. It is highly recommended to visit beaches with lifegauards on duty. Visit kauailifeguards.org for more safety information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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CALENDAR

KAUA‘I EVENTS ONGOING LIVE MUSIC AT SHUTTER’S LOUNGE (Everyday) – Listen to great live music while dining on well-priced, delicious food every evening including late night fare and small plates at Shutter’s Lounge at Kauaÿi Beach Resort located in Lïhuÿe. Open Sunday through Thursday from 5pm to 11pm and 5pm to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Call Kauaÿi Beach Resort (808) 245-1955 for more information. GROVE FARM MUSEUM TOUR (Mon., Wed., Thurs.) – An unhurried, 2-hour guided tour of the 100-acre Grove Farm site preserves one of Hawaiÿi’s sugar plantation buildings, furnishings and collections, surrounding orchards and pasturelands. This homestead was the center of operations for the developing sugar plantation and involved the relationship of family life, plantation activity, household work, gardening and farming and continues as part of the experience of visiting Grove Farm. Advance reservations are required (10am to 1pm). Fee: $20 for adults and $10 for ages 5-12. Call (808) 245-3202. WAIMEA HISTORIC WALKING TOUR (Mondays) – Take a 2.5-hour walk back through time in the place where Captain Cook first landed in Waimea. Where the agricultural landscape changed from taro to rice to corn, watered by an intricate ditch system with a marvelous history dating back to the time of the legendary Menehune. Learn about the last King of Kauaÿi, the missionaries, and other famous citizens of Waimea along with the landmarks they left behind. Enjoy a taste of the past in one of the most historic towns in all of Hawaiÿi. Registration is required for participation and Special Group tours are available. Free. Call West Kauaÿi Tech & Visitor Center (808) 3381332 for more information. KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET (Wednesdays) – Meet Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors, as well as Kukui‘ula Village merchants and enjoy Chef Demonstration at 5pm with Kaua‘i grown produce, and listen to Hawaiian and local style music. Wine and beer garden, freshly grilled püpü and sweet treats, and 20 Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors make for a lively fun evening. Stay for dinner and shopping at the great retail shops and restaurants. Every 108

Wednesday from 3:30pm to 6pm at Kukui‘ula Village in Po‘ipü. HANAPĒPĒ FRIDAY NIGHT FESTIVAL & ART WALK (Fridays) – Come join the festivity! Every Friday evening, Old Town Hanapëpë is bustling with fun and activity! With a wide variety of shopping, local crafters, several excellent restaurants, a dozen art galleries, stilt walkers, classics cars, live music and entertainment, there is always something for the whole family to enjoy! From 6pm-9pm. Call Ed (808) 335-6469. ALOHA FRIDAY: MAKE A LEI, WEAR A LEI (Fridays) - Come and enjoy making fresh flower lei and learn the different methods of lei making. Materials are provided. Workshop in Waimea at West Kauaÿi Visitor Center. Free. For more info, call (808) 338-1332. KAUA‘I COMMUNITY MARKET (Saturdays) - New weekend value added farmers market hosted by the Kauaÿi County Farm Bureau and Kauaÿi Community College. Kauaÿi Community Market features a wide variety of locally grown fruit and produce, value added products like coffee, honey and goat cheese, plus culinary treats, breakfast and lunch items to eat at the market or take home. Learn ways to grow and prepare local foods, educational demos and garden tours held regularly. A great way to buy fresh and buy local, supporting Kauaÿi Grown products and Kauaÿi farmers from Hanalei to Kekaha. At Kauaÿi Community College front lawn and parking lot from 9:30am to 1pm. Free. Call (808) 652-3217. KAUAI ISLAND CRAFTERS FAIR (Saturdays) - You will find an amazing array of quality hand-made products from Kauai’s own crafters and artisans. Beautifully-crafted handbags, fabric angels, Hawaiian quilts, Hawaiian dolls, towel wraps, Kauaÿi scenic photography & paintings & fiber arts, carved hardwood tikis & bone jewelry, beachwear cover-up, sunrise shell jewelry, souvenirs and lots more by local Kauaÿi artists. This is where you will find that unique gift for that joyous occasion or special someone that will be cherished for years (8am to 2pm). Place: Church of the Pacific, 5-4280 Kühiö Highway, Princeville. Proceeds to benefit The Church of the Pacific. Contact (808) 635-4314.

‘OHANA DAY (Monthly) – The first Saturday of each month is ‘Ohana Day for family fun at the Kauaÿi Museum. Look forward to demonstrations, lectures and more during these special days. 10am to 5pm at the Kauaÿi Museum in Lïhuÿe. Free for kamaÿäina, and discounted for visitors. Call (808) 245-6931. PRINCEVILLE NIGHT MARKET (Monthly) - Princeville Night Market is a monthly festival, held every second Sunday, featuring live music and local artisans at the Princeville Shopping Center. Discover 40+ local artisans as you walk around the grounds from 4pm to 8pm. Listen to live music from several different bands. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! For more info, email PrincevilleNightMarket@gmail.com. KĪLAUEA ART NIGHT (Monthly) - Kïlauea Art Night is a monthly festival held on the last Saturday of each month featuring live music, local artisans and trendy food trucks. Line up for pulled-pork sandwiches and fresh fish tacos, stretch out on blankets while listening to the band. Walk around the grounds to discover 40+ local artisans. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! Held at Anaina Hou Community Park. Email KilaueaArtNight@ gmail.com for more info. KEIKI DAY AT NA ‘ĀINA BOTANICAL GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK (Sept. 29, Oct. 20, Nov. 17) – Na ÿÄina Kai’s playday is a monthly event held on a selected Saturday from 9am to 1pm where you can enjoy quality time with your kids in the “Under the Rainbow” Children’s Garden. Kids can get wet and play in Jack’s fountain, explore the jungle tree house and discover the many child-friendly features of the Children’s Garden. Bring a towel, and be prepared to get wet. Outside snacks are permitted and reservations are recommended ($10/person, free for children under 1 years old). For the monthly schedule and to make reservations, call (808) 828-0525 or visit naainakai.org/keiki-day.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

SEPTEMBER KAUA‘I MUSEUM PRESENTS ROBERT CAZIMERO IN CONCERT (Sept. 20) - A fundraiser to benefit our education program. Doors open at 5:30pm, No host cocktail/püpü at 6pm and concert from 7pm to 8:30pm. For more information or to order tickets, please contact the museum at (808) 2456931 or visit our website www.kauaimuseum.org. MĀLIE FOUNDATION: KAUA‘I MOKIHANA FESTIVALS (Sept. 23-29) – Kaua‘i Mokihana Festival is a weeklong celebration of Hawaiian culture and includes educational lectures, craft fairs, music and hula competitions at various locations around the island of Kaua‘i. The finale cannot be missed, as a solo competition will enchant the audience before the competing hälau and audience wait breathlessly as the judges announce the winners. Various venues and fees. Call (808) 651-1868 or visit MalieFoundation. org for detailed information on events and locations. OCTOBER EO E EMALANI I ALAKA‘I (Oct. 13) -Since 1988, Hui o Laka/Kökeÿe Museum has hosted “Eo e Emalani i Alakaÿi” to commemorate a historic event honoring Queen Emma’s 1871 visit to Kökeÿe and Alakaÿi Swamp. Each year people are chosen to represent Queen Emma, Kaluahi, and attendants. Invited hula hälau from around the state and Japan honor their queen with dances and chants honoring Kaleleonälani—Traveler of the Mountains. The event starts at 9am along with exhibits, crafts and snack sales in the Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow. After the Queen’s party rides into the Meadow at 11am, a dozen hälau perform dances myhawaiitraveler.com

and chants honoring Queen Emma. There is no admission although donations are accepted at the Kökeÿe Museum. Parking is limited with carpooling strongly suggested. Shuttle service is in the works from Kekaha and Waimea Neighborhood Centers. Call (808) 335-9975 or visit Kokee.org. ANNUAL HALLOWEEN EVENT AT NA ‘ĀINA BOTANICAL GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK (Oct. 20) – Games, prizes, face painting and more! Costumes are encouraged. Concessions are available for purchase. The Halloween Event is recommended for children ages 10 and under, but, of course, all are welcome! This has proven to be a Spook-tacular event for the whole family! Fee is $10/advance, $12/door. Event is from 4pm-7pm. To get tickets or for more info, call (808) 828-0525 or visit naainakai.org/keiki-day. NOVEMBER VETERANS DAY PARADE (Nov. 3) – The annual parade honors veterans and is made up of the following participants: the County of Kauaÿi as well as each military service and the civilian population of Kauai. Following the parade is the Coconut Festival Craft Fair with food and craft booths, live entertainment and hula. From 9:30am to 10pm; free. Starts at Makaha Road, down Kühiö Highway through downtown Kapaÿa and ends at Kapaÿa Beach Park on Nui Street. For more info, call Russel (808) 652-4802. DECEMBER KAUA‘I’S FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS (Dec. 1-29) – Santa’s gone Kauaian at the Festival of Lights! It’s a Kauai-style Holiday

Wonderland inside the Historic County Building. This December marks the 22nd Anniversary of this glorious celebration founded by artist Elizabeth Freeman in 1997. It showcases the beloved “Trash to Treasure” Folk Art decorations of Auntie Josie Chansky and the gorgeous new “up-cycled” creations designed by Elizabeth and crafted by our talented teen volunteers! Step inside and let the magic begin! In the twinkling interior guests will find delightful Kauai-style touches—from Rainbows & Roosters to Hula Bears and Dolphins. Don’t miss our Surfin’ Santa and the whimsical SPAM Can Tree! It’s the best place for Photos with Santa. Plus the dazzling Park Lights glow every night through New Year’s! All free! It’s truly a reflection of Kauaÿi’s Aloha Spirit! Open 6pm-8pm every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from December 1 – 29 including Christmas Eve! Visit KauaiFestivalOfLights.com for more information. NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION (Dec. 31) - From 5-8:30pm on the grounds of Poÿipü Beach Park in celebration of the successes of 2018 and future prosperity of 2019. The event includes food trucks and a familyfriendly movie in the park, activities for the keiki and spectacular display of fireworks. The event is free (except for food/drink) and open to the public providing attendees an opportunity to enjoy this traditional celebration in a beautiful, ocean-side environment. Bring your lawn chairs and blankets. Visit PoipuBeach.org for more info. All events are subject to change. Check out MyHawaiiTraveler.com for updates and more events. 109

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KAUA‘I FOR YOUR INFORMATION Area Code (808) for entire state

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance/Police/Fire Civil Defense Poison Control Wilcox Memorial Hospital

911 733-4300 1-800-362-3585 245-1100

AIRPORTS

Līhu‘e Ariport

AIRLINES

Alaska Airlines American Airlines go! Airlines Hawaiian Airlines Japan Airlines United Airlines

CREDIT CARDS

American Express MasterCard Visa Credit Card Directory

TRANSPORTATION

Hertz Car Rental Bus Taxi

246-1448

1-800-654-5669 1-800-433-7300 1-888-IFLYGO2 1-800-882-8811 1-800-525-3663 1-800-241-6522

1-800-221-7282 1-800-307-7309 1-800-847-2911 1-800-555-1212

1-800-654-3011 241-6410 246-9554

WEATHER/CONDITIONS Weather Forecast Marine Forecast

245-6001 245-3564

VISITOR INFORMATION Directory 1-800-555-1212 Information 411 Agricultural Inspection 245-2831 Hawai‘i County Parks 241-4463 Hawai‘i State Parks 274-3444 Fishing License 274-3344 Hunting License 274-3433 Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce 245-7363 Kaua‘i Visitors Information 1-800-262-1400

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