Kauai Traveler by Traveler Media

U KA A’I TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I

KAUA‘I TRAVELER myhawaiitraveler.com

CITIZENS

OF THE SEA OCEAN LIFE ENCOUNTERS

Princeville Resort

SUMMER 2019

Award winning designs, exceptional quality and unsurpassed service. Allgemstones, diamonds, pearls are unique and certified. The exclusive Van Balen line is handmade in Hawaii.

5520 Ka Haku Road Princeville, HI 96722 9:00am-9:00pm daily 808.826.6555 info@ValVanBalen.com

LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW $6.99

CULINARY FUSION

TASTING FLAVORS FROM THE PAST

LEGENDARY WAILUA THE SACRED RIVER VALLEY

KŌKE'E IS CALLING

EXPLORE UNTOUCHED BEAUTY

Cover-C4-KT19v2.indd 1

3/27/19 1:55 PM

Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 Kukuiula Shopping Village (808) 742-2828

GrandesGemsHawaii.com

Tours of

Na Pali Coast Snorkeling Fun Sunset Dinner Cruise Guaranteed Dolphins Spacious Catamarans

Ask us about scuba diving!

808-335-5553

www.bluedolphinkauai.com

KAUAI Find all 12 dolphins to get a free t-shirt when booking direct. Call us for hints!

CONTENTS 28 WELCOME TO KAUA‘I

64 CITIZENS OF THE SEA

34 SOUTH SHORE

70 LEGENDARY WAILUA

Paradise found

The sun-drenched coast from Po‘ipū to Polihale

68 EAST SIDE

The Royal Coconut Coast

96 NORTH SHORE

Ocean life encounters

The sacred river valley

80 THE HOT SPOT

Hualani's Restaurant at HŌkūala Kaua‘i

82 CULINARY Q&A

Executive Chef Eric Barsness

The majestic and magical wonder of nature

84 MADE IN AMERICA

36 KŌKE‘E IS CALLING

86 WHAT WE LOVE NOW

48 LITTLE SHOP OF SMILES

89 CULINARY FUSION

60 GOING THE DISTANCE

92 FARM TO KEIKI

Explore untouched beauty Kiko Simple Goods

Protecting native species from extinction takes extreme measures

West Coast Wines

What's trending on the culinary scene Tasting flavor from the past

Rooted in learnin

98 THE CHOSEN ONES

Favorite local beaches

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

UNDERSTANDING PIDGIN, LESSON 49

Broke da Mouth /brōk dah mowt/: Extremely delicious to the taste.

"Dis Potagee Paella broke da mouth, Unko Roy!"

"Plantation Paella"

Tiger Shrimp, Clams, Chicken, Portuguese Sausage

Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawaii’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawaii, called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and fishermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine.

Located at The Shops at Kukui‘ula | Reservations (808) 742-5000 or visit eatinghouse1849.com

CONTENTS

UA’I KA TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I

myhawaiitraveler.com Publisher

Kevin Geiger

Editor in Chief Mun Sok Geiger

Contributors

SHOP | 42

SPORT + ADVENTURE | 52

Coco Zickos Krystal Kakimoto Brooke Rehmann Mary Troy Johnston Ian McGuire Natalia Mastrascusa Andy Beth Miller

Copy Editor

Brooke Rehmann

Cover Image Tor Johnson

www.traveler.media

FOOD + DRINK | 74

www.theory.co

Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 info@traveler-media.com

BEACHES | 104 4

EVENTS | 110

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

GRAND A N A R A S PA AT G R A N D H YAT T K A U A I —

Feel all tension melt away with a soothing facial or massage as traditional healing customs blend with fresh island botanicals to refresh and renew. m m m m

FloatPod therapy offers a peaceful space for total relaxation and escape. Weekly and monthly passes available for fitness center and yoga and fitness classes. Full service hair and nail salon. Boutique features comfortable island-wear for every occasion.

For a Hawaiian spa experience like no other, call 808 240 6440 or visit grandhyattkauai.com. M AE - 982

ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE H

ow do you define paradise? For me, it’s a place where I am surrounded by natural beauty, food is plentiful and organic, people are genuinely nice, and I feel safe. By my definition, Kauaÿi is paradise. There are endless gorgeous beaches and a wealth of natural wonders to explore with my family to make lasting memories—all without having to buy pricey park passes, pay for parking and stand in ridiculously long lines. It’s awesome being able to select a beach based on what mood we are in that day and what watersport, if any, we plan to do. With so many idyllic beaches with swaying palm trees, shade from ironwoods, soft golden sand, vibrant reefs full of tropical fish, “finding your beach” is a champagne problem anyone is happy to tackle (The Chosen Ones, p. 98). Another favorite pastime for our family is hiking. And lucky for us, there are a variety of scenic trails to choose from to suit all levels of nature’s explorers. Kökeÿe State Park offers insane views of dramatic cliffs and your best chance to see native honeycreepers like ÿapapane, ‘i‘iwi, and ‘amakihi in the lush forests. Take a walk in the mist of the Alakaÿi Swamp Trail, which will take you to an incredible view of Wainiha Valley and Hanalei Bay. Stand atop the grand Kalalau Valley, venture to the astounding edges of the Näpali Coast and immerse yourself in rainforests brimming with native foliage in this remarkable, pristine region (Kökeÿe Is Calling, p. 36). 6

It’s hard not to be enveloped in nature on the Garden Isle and appreciate the gifts of serenity and beauty. The hustle of the modern world and its everchanging technology takes a back seat allowing us to renew our spirit and soul. Here, the pace of life is slower and grounded in nature. Even little preschoolers get an early start learning to garden and grow their own food in a farm-to-school education program. Planting a wholesome foundation in young minds to make healthy food choices, grow their own food, and support local farmers are some important lessons in the nature-based education (Farm to Keiki, p. 90). The year-round bounty of organic fruits and veggies, fresh seafood, sunshine, waterfalls, beaches, mountain trails, endless outdoor activities and the Aloha Spirit equals paradise. It’s amazing how one word can evoke so many pleasant thoughts and dreams—from fantasies of total relaxation to experiencing all the adventures a destination has to offer. Enjoy every second and soak in the magic of Kauaÿi…paradise.

Warmest aloha, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler-media.com Editor in Chief KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Keia la —

—

[ T O D A Y ] WE RUN WITH THE SEA.

Obtain a property report or its equivalent as required by Federal or State Law and read it before signing anything. No Federal or State Agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the property. This is not an offer or solicitation in CT, NJ or NY or in any state in which the legal requirements for such offering have not been met. Warning: The CA Dept. of Real Estate has not inspected, examined, or qualified this offering. Fees, memberships and restrictions may apply for certain amenities. Details available. Price and availability subject to change. ©January, 2019. Kukui‘ula Development Company (Hawaii), LLC. All rights reserved.

We have a naturally profound need to experience the extraordinary. For those drawn to places rich in ways to play, immersed in sublime beauty, and blessed with a soulful reverence for ohana and tradition, Kukuiâ&#x20AC;&#x203A;ula is such a spirited place. Here, on Kauaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sunny South Shore, you will find a magical setting like no other to create a home in the Hawaiian Islands.

LOCAL VIBE

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

WET SADDLE

Now that you’re strapped into your snorkeling gear and ready to head out into Hawaiÿi’s pristine coral reefs, keep an eye out for one of our island’s most common reef fish, the hïnälea lauwili, or saddle wrasse. With its long greenish blue body with bright orange vertical stripe near its head that looks like a saddle, the hïnälea lauwili looks the colorful part for our warm, tropical waters. Males tend to have a white stripe near their head, though, like other wrasses, the saddle wrasse is capable of sex reversals throughout their lifespans. Endemic to Hawai‘i, the saddle wrasse grows to about 10 inches in length. These opportunistic fish feed on a diet of crunchy invertebrates such as crustaceans, mollusks and urchins, as well as algae and fish eggs. Spawning season occurs in the spring and summer during low tide and new moon phases, when groups of fish dart up towards the surface, releasing a cloud of eggs and sperm before a quick descent back towards their reef homes below. Keep an eye out for them during the day, as this is their most active time, before they too need a break from a long active day in Hawai‘i and burrough into patches of sand during the night.

TINY FLOCKS

Some birds in Hawaiÿi are indigenous and endemic to our islands, while some have stowed away in more recent years to make these beautiful islands their new homes. The African silverbill was only first spotted in Hawaiÿi in the 1970s, making them a newcomer here, likely an escaped caged pet or two. Only 4 ½ inches long with pale brown and light gray feathers with a blue-gray beak, these avian creatures formerly called the Sahara Desert their home. This means the drier parts of our island like the West Side are ideal places to catch a glimpse of these little birds. Males and females are very hard to distinguish from each other due to their similar appearances. The African silverbill feeds mostly on grass seeds, along with an occasional aphid. For those listening closely, small flocks sound similar to the tinkling of little bells, like a high-pitched repeating “tseep” sound. Be sure to keep an eye (and ear) out for these little songbirds on your travels.

LOCAL LINGO

In a rush? Ready to head out on your next adventure? Well, then you better hele on! Meaning “to go” or “to move,” hele (pronounced “heh-lay”) is the perfect expression for when you’re ready to get a move on. With add-ons, you can easily change the meaning. Want to tell someone to come? Then you would tell them to hele mai. Ready for that same person to exit stage right? Hele aku means to “go away.” Don’t be surprised to see this expression on signs, including at local bike rentals, where the name is applied perfectly, or hear locals using the term when they’re ready to go cruising. So next time you’re ready to head out the door, tell everyone hele. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Our Wave collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold.

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry

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LOCAL VIBE

ISLAND COWBOY Visions of cattle ranching with horse-riding cowboys in open prairies are probably not the first mental image you conjure up when you think of Hawai‘i. Yet, for many, the ranching lifestyle is synonymous with life here in the tropics. Paniolo (cowboys) have played an important role in Hawaiian history and culture since the mid-1800s. King Kamehameha I was gifted several heads of cattle and sheep by Captain George Vancouver in 1793, and because the King imposed the death penalty to anyone who killed the cattle, they were free to multiply and did so in remarkable numbers. By the time Kamehameha III took reign, the mass of wild cattle were wreaking mayhem throughout the countryside. So he sent a high chief off to California in 1832, which was still part of Mexico at the time, to round up a few cowboys needed to

demonstrate and teach the skills necessary for Hawaiians to learn how to properly handle horses and cattle. Hawaiian cowboys, just like the cowboys on the mainland, are direct descendants of the Mexican vaqueros (cowboys). Some etymology experts believe the word “paniolo” came from the Hawaiian pronunciation of español since there is no “s” sound in the Hawaiian language and all words must end in a vowel. There are rodeos throughout the year on Kauaÿi where skilled paniolo get to show off their roping and riding skills to an enthusiastic crowd. The paniolo values that began so long ago continues today to encompass the same spirit of independence, freedom and ethics in the life of many paniolo working the open ranges throughout Hawaiÿi.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Serving Lunch & Dinner Grass-fed Kauai Beef Locally sourced ingredients Wood fired grill Exhibition Kitchen Patio Dining Large selection of Craft beers on tap JASON PHILLIPS PHOTOGRAPHY

Be sure to check out our new sister restaurant, Oyster 369.

Raw, chilled and brick-oven roasted Shellfish & Seafood Located right next door to Street Burger | www.oyster369.com

LANAI-LINED LUXURY

Looking for oceanfront? You won’t get any closer than this. Discover the private residences of Timbers Kaua’i with panoramic views at every turn. And if you chose to leave the serenity of your private lanais, at your doorstep is 13 miles of nature trails hugging the Pacific, an infinity-edge pool, a restaurant and spa featuring fresh ingredients from the onsite farm as well as an award-winning Jack Nicklaus signature course boasting the longest stretch of oceanfront golf on all of Hawaii. This is the lanai life.

Own. Stay. Play. Dine. Join us for a visit or a lifetime... TimbersKauai.com/ktm 808.465.2186

TIMBERS COLLECTION l Aspen l Bachelor Gulch l Cabo San Lucas l Jupiter l Kaua‘i l Kiawah Island l Maui l Napa l Scottsdale l Snowmass l Sonoma l Southern California l Steamboat l Tuscany l U.S. Virgin Islands l Vail

This advertisement does not constitute an offer to sell nor the solicitation of an offer to purchase made in any jurisdiction nor made to residents of any jurisdiction, including New York, where registration is required. Tower Kauai Lagoons LLC uses the Timbers Resort,® Timbers Collection® and certain other Timbers brand names under a limited non-transferable license in connection with the sales and marketing of the Hokuala Kauai™ – A Timbers Resort® (the “Project”). If this license is terminated or expires without renewal, the Project will no longer be identified with nor have any right to use the Timbers® marks and names. All renderings depicted in this advertisement are illustrative only and may be changed at any time. All rights reserved.

LOCAL VIBE

ROCK GRAFFITI Ever stop at a roadside attraction, hike to a beautiful beach, or admire a beautiful vista, and notice a collection of stacked rocks? Perhaps you wondered if these rocks had been stacked for generations, a rare sign of ancient Hawaiian life still witnessed today? Alas, most of these stacked rocks, or ahu, are not exactly a facet of ancient Hawaiian culture, but the product of unwitting visitors acting in a less than pono, or righteous, way. For many in Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i, these stacked rocks are seen as a form of graffiti, and the removal of rocks from certain places in order to stack them could be tampering with ancient heiau (temples) that are not commonly marked. Hawaiians did build ahu, also known as rock cairns, for ceremonial purposes, as well as directional markings, but these ancient ahu were much more carefully built and often significant in size. Instead of being tempted to reconstruct the gorgeous natural beauty of your surroundings and leave your own individual mark, visitors should resist the temptation to stack rocks.

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

NA HOKU

Created to account for the individuality, taste and style of the women who wear it Na Hokuʼs Hawaiian and Island Lifestyle jewelry features hand engraved heirloom, floral and sea-life designs. Many pieces are set with diamonds, Tahitian pearls, fresh water pearls, Mother of Pearl, and Opal. Na Hoku also carries jewelry designed by Kabana, Asch/Grossbardt, and Steven Douglas. >> www.nahoku.com

SHOE ENVY

Shoe Envy features stylish, comfortable resort style footwear for the whole family. A few of the many brands that we carry are Olukai, Täōs, Naot, Pikolinos, Bernie Mev and Keen. Besides shoes you will also find unique handmade vintage clutches, leather handbags and accessories. >> www.shoeenvypoipu.com

MARTIN & MACARTHUR

Genuine Koa wood watches made with self-winding automaatic movements, Koa Eternity Rings, Koa sunglasses and fine Koa jewelry made with our private stock of Big Island Koa. We feature the finest craftsmen in Hawaii with the widest selection of Koa jewelry boxes, glass sculptures, outrigger canoes, and feather lei. >> www.martinandmacarthur.com

ACCENTS

From fresh food and drinks to locally made and island inspired accessories and gifts, Accents brings you the best Hawaii has to offer.

www.shopsofhawaii.com

TORI RICHARD

Since our founding in 1956, Tori Richard is proud to continue our 60-year tradition of quality made-in-Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i craftsmanship and playful eclecticism for the resort lifestyle. From the finest textile printing techniques and unique fabrications, to the one-of a kind prints that adorn and delight, Tori Richard captures a piece of Hawaii like no other.

www.toririchard.com

LOCAL VIBE

FLOWERING BIRDS One of the most iconic flowers of our beautiful tropical islands is bird of paradise. Not actually an avian species, these “birds” are more flora than fauna. With their spiky orange sepals, and striking blue petals, these horizontal flowers look like birds that have just taken off in flight and are perfect for tropical floral arrangements. Native to South Africa, bird of paradise love warm and sunny weather, making them the ideal plants to grow here in the tropics. These beautiful flowers are found surrounded by evergreen vertical leaves, resembling those of a banana plant, with the brightly colored flower rising up around clusters of leaves, creating a striking visual when several flowers are in bloom. Once cut, a bird of paradise, also known as crane ﬂower or crane lily, can last for up to two weeks, making them an ideal addition to any floral centerpiece. Looking to grow some yourself? Keep in mind that plants started from seed can take up to five years to flower, though small offsets will take less time.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

SUNSHINE

HELICOPTERS

WATCH THE VIDEO!

(808) 245-5953 sunshinehelicopters.com

LOCAL VIBE

MY KAUA‘I NAME

MIA CHAVEZ

OCCUPATION

MARKETING MANAGER AT PRINCEVILLE RESORT

HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I MOVED FROM

23 YEARS

SAN FRANCISCO Favorite food: I love all types of food and being in Hawaiÿi, we are so fortunate to have so many different cultural cuisines. Family parties in Hawaiÿi will have at least 5-6 types of food on the dinner table. If I had to choose one I would say Japanese. I have always been so fascinated by the preparation and presentation of Japanese food; and in Hawaiÿi we have access to some of the freshest seafood for these dishes! Favorite drive: My favorite drive is coming out to the North Shore. I am in awe every day on my drive out. I am lucky to have these lush green mountain ranges as my backyard and as I walk into work everyday I look up and see the Namolokama ridge and remind myself how lucky I am to live in a real life postcard. Favorite hike: My favorite hike is the Sleeping Giant Trail—it’s perfect for me and my kids. It’s close to where we live and always has a nice cool breeze once you get to the top!

Favorite place to catch the sunset/sunrise: My favorite place to catch the sunset is right here at Princeville Resort. We have such a great backdrop for the sun to set over the Makana mountain range. It’s always a showstopper. Favorite discovery: My favorite recent discovery is the Japanese Grandma Café in the historic Hanapëpë Town. It is a quaint little stop on the West Side with seating for no more then 20. The staff is always super friendly and they create some of the best and freshest Japanese dishes I have ever had!

my local faves

KAUA‘I SALT 22

Lucky you live Hawai‘i because… my island home is like no other. The sense of ÿohana (family) here has always been something I have admired; and now that I have started my own ÿohana, I would not want them to grow up anywhere else. The mix of cultures, rich history and island way of life is something many take for granted. I love Hawaiÿi and all that it has to offer. To be able to wake up in paradise everyday is such a blessing and this will always be my home.

MT. MAKANA

SLEEPING GIANT KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (BOTTOM LEFT) KUULEI SANTOS

Favorite Hawaiian product: My favorite Hawaiian product is paÿakai (Hawaiian salt). We are so fortunate on Kauaÿi to have salt beds and I feel a great sense of respect for the people who keep this tradition alive. It is a hard commodity to come by and I am so fortunate to be able to still receive some when it’s available.

Mofl0 2 &RS S ™

deliver fresh air on every breath. Here’s how it works: Trading CO2 (exhale) for O2 (inhale) occurs in billions of alveoli cells in the bronchial tubes & lungs, but not in the 4-6 inches from the trachea to the mouth hole—the stretch known as dead-air space. A primitive snorkel triples dead-air space, so you rebreathe the same air, which is like wearing the same sox or not changing your skivvies. Burning lungs & a heavy heart affict the snorkeler breathing CO2. Would you rather sigh in an elevator or get 93% fresh air on every breath?

Mofl02™ FRESH-AIR SNORKEL K and the all new Mofl02RS ™—Rally Sport, for the Now comes

fuel effcient among us. More concise lungs need less volume in a snorkel. RS means less effort to clear, and it comes with a standard or small mouthpiece. With double-valve twin chambers, the

Mofl02™

& Mofl02RS ™ clear easy as PHWEEGA! You will love no headaches & more umph in your glug. So GET DOWN & co come up to

MoflO2 &RS ™

by the day, y the week or for keepss

No snuks, leaks or pond scum in the gear wash.

Kapaa on Kuhio Hwy., north of Coconut Marketplace 823-9433 Koloa on Poipu Rd., south of Koloa Town 742-2206 $9/week snorkel sets • 24 hr. Interisland Gear Return • All Islands 8-5 Every Day

Do you dream of taking your family off-roading in the jungle, but never had the chance? We offer two, three, four-hour excursions, the perfect mix of adventure and touring luxury suitable for the whole family.

KIPUTOURS.COM 808.246.9288

WHY DON'T YOU... COUNT YOUR LUCKY STARS. After you’ve filled your days with fun in the sun, look to the night sky and be amazed at the billions of stars that seem closer and brighter than you’ve ever seen before. From remote locations like Polihale to heavenly Hanalei, you can stargaze pretty much anywhere on Kauaÿi since there are so many awesome locations with little to no light pollution. Anyone can join K.E.A.S.A, The Kauai Educational Association for Science and Astronomy, for their monthly Starwatch. For their schedule, directions and additional information, visit keasa.org or call (808) 332-7827.

INDULGE IN NATURE’S AROMATHERAPY. With so many intoxicating, heavenly scents from beautiful, fragrant flowers from melia (plumeria) and pïkake (jasmine) to gardenias and tuberose found on the Garden Isle, your head may spin from the sensory overload in the best way possible way.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

SWIM WITH THE LOCALS. Spend some time in the tropical waters looking for colorful residents of the sea such as the parrotfish, butterflyfish, boxfish and Hawaiian sea turtles. There are plenty of healthy reefs in Kauaÿi to choose your snorkeling adventure—just make sure you use reef-safe sunscreen to keep them healthy. If you need gear, head to Snorkel Bob’s for great selection, prices and convenience. At the Coconut Marketplace in Kapaÿa (808) 823-9433 or South Shore on Poÿipü Road (808) 742-2206.

CELEBRATE EACH MAGICAL SUNSET. Watching the everchanging colors of the sky from brilliant reds and vivid purples to pastel pinks as the sun bids farewell is a sight you won’t take for granted. There are many exceptional locales to watch the sun sink into the sea from the comfort of the länai (patio) at your oceanfront resort to aboard a luxurious catamaran with a cocktail in your hand—all with sublime scenery. Try Blue Dolphin Charters (808) 335-5553, Holo Holo Charters (808) 335-0815 or Kauai Sea Tours (808) 335-5309.

myhawaiitraveler.com

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I THE GARDEN ISLE

ALOHA

It’s no surprise that Kaua‘i typically finds itself ranked as one of the top islands in the world. There are two of many distinctions Kaua‘i holds that contribute to landing on the top of many traveler's lists. The first is that Kaua‘i is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, so Mother Nature has had plenty of time to cut deep gorges into the valleys, shape dramatic sea cliffs and sculpt the majestic Waimea Canyon into “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Another primary distinction is that Kaua‘i is also home to the rainiest spot on earth, Mount Wai‘ale‘ale (rippling water), with an average yearly rainfall of 450 inches. Situated almost in the center of the island, this 5,148 ft. tall mountain provides Kaua‘i with the nourishment it needs to earn its monicker as the Garden Isle, with lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls and verdant tropical foliage.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

myhawaiitraveler.com

ALOHA

The scenery may steal the show, but it’s the various adventures in the idyllic setting that will get your heart racing. You can navigate one of the Island’s seven rivers on a kayak, trek through the rainforest of Alaka‘i Wilderness Area, wander through multiple jade gardens, hike trails of all levels, and be rewarded with secret waterfalls and golden sand beaches. You can even sit poolside at a five-star resort, where your only exertion is choosing a tropical refreshment. Whatever your pleasure, this emerald island promises a regal vacation. In case you haven’t noticed, tall buildings don’t obscure any of the natural splendors of Kaua‘i. This is because legislation mandates that no structure built on Kaua‘i is taller than a coconut tree. How it has managed to maintain that code after all these years is a mystery, but Kaua‘i is no stranger when it comes to standing its ground. Not even the Great King Kamehameha could take it down. In fact, in an attempt to prevent further attacks on both his people and his Island, King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s last reigning king, decided to cede Kaua‘i to Kamehameha in peaceful negotiations. Now that is the original “make love not war” mentality. This peaceful mindset has been passed on through generations and is apparent in island life today. Kaua‘i has the reputation of having the friendliest residents of all the islands. Not only is the Garden Isle the most beautiful, with paradise settings often portrayed in Hollywood movies, but the feel of the island is relaxed, with a laid-back attitude that resonates in the air as much as the sweet intoxicating aroma of its plumeria. 32

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

As balmy and dreamy as Kaua‘i is, it does experience a change in seasons, so make sure that you plan your activities accordingly. Actually, the entire state experiences basically two seasons. The Hawaiians named them kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). The summer months range from May through September and those of winter from October through April. Although the seasons are usually mild, you should watch out for excessive rain in the winter. In March 2006, it rained for 40 days and 40 nights, and while nobody spotted an ark in the horizon, there was massive flooding on all of the islands. Before making the famous 11-mile trek along the Näpali Coast, make sure that the skies are clear and there is no chance of rain. The change is weather also brings a change in surf.Winter months will bring large swells to the North and West shores, and the opposite goes for summer months. Heed all warnings on the beach to ensure the safety of your family. Kaua‘i’s main vein of transportation is the predominately two-lane Kaumuali‘i Highway. Named after the king, this 82-mile stretch of highway can really get backed up, especially during rush hour. And yes, paradise does have a rush hour. About 62,000 people live on this over five million year old “Fantasy Island,” and 36,800 residents drive. So to avoid any unwanted stress in paradise, make sure to schedule your road trips around peak travel hours. Aside from this, don’t worry if you need to get from one side of the island to the other, as you could do so in about 90 minutes. So if you like the idea of visiting Waimea Canyon, but would rather stay in the quaint and convenient town of Kapa‘a, near award- winning restaurants and cool boutiques, go ahead, as the average commute time to most places is 30 minutes. Kaua‘i has 552 square miles of diverse terrain, which making it the fourth largest island in the eight-island chain. Obviously, good things come in small land mass. Once you have experienced the diversity and the beauty of each town and its attractions, you will soon agree that the Garden Isle is the best island, offering all the elements of a perfect vacation—rural enough to get away, yet a stone’s throw away from indulgence. Perfect. E komo mai. Nou ka hale (Come inside, the house is yours). myhawaiitraveler.com

DESTINATIONS

THE SUNNY SOUTH PO‘IPŪ TO WAIMEA CANYON

tunnel of tall eucalyptus trees marks the gateway to Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore. Perfect weather and golden beaches make the south side of Kaua‘i a favorite hang out for both visitors and locals. Old Köloa Town is home to Hawai‘i’s first active sugar mill, the birthplace of the Hawaiian sugar industry, which was the state’s strongest economy for more than a century. Although the mill is inoperational now, the charming town thrives with activity from the many restaurants, boutiques and shops that line the wooden sidewalks. One of the best ways to really experience all the South Shore has to offer is by ATV, exploring its beautiful vistas, plantations and waterfalls. Fun! Just a couple of miles south of Köloa lies sunny Po‘ipü, a major resort destination with beachfront condos and restaurants developed around some of the best beaches on the Island. Once there, you will see why Po‘ipü Beach has been voted America’s Best Beach by the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, as Po‘ipü provides beachgoers a place to snorkel, swim, wade, boogie-board, kayak, surf and sunbathe. Swimming at all levels can be enjoyed, from the protected natural saltwater pools to the more exciting wave action for the experienced. With three bow-shaped bays, each with their own environment, Po‘ipü thrives with a multitude of marine life. Looking to satisfy the explorer in you? Then discover the secluded and diverse landscape of Mähä‘ulepü. With rugged limestone cliffs, ancient burial grounds and rocky sea caves, your journey will be unforgettable. If trekking by foot, start at Shipwreck Beach, located just east of the Hyatt. (Hint: If you see locals jumping from a 50-ft sand dune at Makawehi Point, you’re headed in the right direction.) Once in the ironwoods, you should be able to pick up the trail. If you have a 4WD and a watch, you can drive in. But

if you do drive, pay attention to the time, as the park closes at 6pm, and you don’t want to get locked in. At Prince Kühïo Park, you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He was known for spearheading the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act. This sets aside 200,000 acres of leasehold land for indigenous Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace. To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave when the tide is high. A visit to the Garden Island wouldn’t be complete without visiting a garden or two. The National Tropical Botanical Garden and the Allerton Garden are two stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. Just a little inland from the opulent coast, is the modest town of Kaläheo. Take a drive through the neighborhood and experience true island living. Stop and picnic in paradise in Kukui O Lono Park. Because the park is set up on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction, including the south coast and Läwa‘i Valley. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. By blending luxury and tradition, the South Shore of Kaua‘i is sure to provide something for everyone. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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KŌKE‘E is calling EXPLORE UNTOUCHED BEAUTY

PHOTO COURTESY: (LEFT) MENZES DICKSON

WORDS COCO ZICKOS

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Stand atop the majestic Kalalau Valley, venture to the ornate edges of the Näpali Coast and immerse yourself in rainforests dripping with native foliage in Kökeÿe State Park. This incredible region of undeveloped ÿäina (land) lets you peer into Kaua‘i’s ethereal vistas where mountain topography meets paradise. This northwestern locale is unlike anywhere else on the island and offers bountiful opportunities to commune with endemic flora and fauna.

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The journey to this natural mecca begins at the historic town of Waimea. This is where the road that climbs the gorgeous red gorge of Waimea Canyon starts its steep ascent to Kökeÿe. Lovely views abound along the way, including tumbling waterfalls like the mighty Waipoÿo and broad, craggy cliffs that plunge into profound valleys. Kökeÿe State Park begins around mile marker 14, when the smell of eucalyptus combines with crisp mountain air to awaken your senses. Bring a jacket because temperatures at this higher elevation average in the 60s during the day and 50s at night. After hitting all of the Waimea Canyon lookouts, a recommended stop is Kökeÿe Museum where you’ll learn about the rich natural history of the area. This quaint rustic repository, founded in the 1950s, offers information about endangered Hawaiian species, and how cattle and the sandalwood industry inflicted great damage upon this mountainous terrain during the 1800s. You can also learn about the reforestation efforts of members of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) who, during the 1930s, were responsible for creating today’s tree-filled Kökeÿe. Linger longer at this central Kökeÿe hub in May or October when Hui o Laka, the nonprofit that operates the museum, hosts family-friendly events. Banana Poka Round-Up takes place in May on the grounds of the historic CCC camp—one of the few in the nation that remain largely intact. This event raises awareness about the local environment and includes cultural activities like lei making. The Eö e Emalani i Alakaÿi, or Emalani Festival, takes places at Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow and commemorates the journey Queen Emma took through the uplands of Kökeÿe to Kilohana Vista in 1871. This festival occurs in October and includes a reenactment of the queen’s arrival with her entourage and equine companions, as well as hula performances and music. If you’d like to slip away from the crowds, lace up a pair of hiking shoes and experience pristine scenery by plodding along any number of Kökeÿe trails. People of all ages and athletic abilities have an equal opportunity to submerge in the serenity of Kökeÿe forests. Options range from an easy Nature Trail located behind the 38

museum to more advanced hikes. Just remember to always check the weather before heading out on any hiking adventure because paths can become slippery and dangerous. Nuÿalolo (8 miles round-trip) and Awaÿawapuhi (6 miles round-trip) trails are both excellent options for the physically inclined. The former consists of a daring cliff-hugging adventure, while the latter plunges deep into the forest. Each trail’s midway point offers some of the most immaculate panoramic views of the Näpali Coast. Emerald peaks preside over ravines that cuddle up next to a crisp blue ocean, creating an exceptional picnic post. Relish in this moment because you’ll be walking an arduous upward trek all the way back to your car. Or, opt to amble along the upper boundaries of Kalalau Valley some 4,000-feet above sea level on the Pihea Trail. Located at the end of the road, the path starts at the Puÿu o Kila Lookout. If you get there early, you may hear the delicate chirps of native birds while you traverse the upper edge of Kalalau Valley on this footpath. After approximately 2 miles, keep going for an all-out hearty adventure into the depths of Kauaÿi’s boggy wilderness. The Alakaÿi Swamp Trail is where a boardwalk draped in perpetual mist leads hikers a few more miles to a stunning view of Wainiha Valley and Hanalei Bay. This famed boardwalk, originally made of redwood during the 1990s, was constructed to protect the pristine environment and help travelers migrate through the muddy montane. Several years ago, Kauaÿi Na Ala Hele program’s staff members started painstakingly replacing the wood, which has since rotted due to the region’s ample rainfall, with recycled plastic lumber. If you embark on this adventure, pack for damp conditions and make sure heavy rain is not in the forecast. And leave early enough before the sun rises to catch the elusive view at Kilohana Lookout, the midway point, before it’s cloaked in afternoon clouds. Kökeÿe is steeped in natural elements but the Pihea and Alakaÿi Swamp trails are the most imbued with native species. Birders and botanists can find species that evolved in isolation over millennia that are found nowhere else in the world. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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You’ll find the state’s most abundant native tree, ÿöhiÿa lehua, and its wispy red flowers, on the Awaÿawapuhi Trail, while its shorter shrubs grow along the Alaka‘i Swamp Trail. Lichen and hearty ferns, such as häpuÿu, a Hawaiian tree fern with large, fluffy fronds that uncurl as they grow, prefer the Alakaÿi Wilderness Preserve’s marshy wetland. The pükiawe bush, sprinkled with red berries, ÿohe naupaka, a shrub with waxy leaves and yellow trumpet-shaped flowers and the ÿölapa tree, are other native plants scattered throughout Kökeÿe. This magical location is also home to eight Hawaiian forest bird species. The beauty and sounds of these delicate creatures can be enjoyed in a few areas of the park. Hiking is usually required, as well as plenty of patience, to find the small, plucky birds. Keep your eyes open, especially for the crimsoncolored ÿapapane who sip the nectar of the ÿöhiÿa lehua blossoms in many parts of the forest. It’s less likely you’ll find puaiohi, Kauaÿi’s grey thrush; akekeÿe, Kaua‘i’s yellow-green honeycreeper; or ÿakikiki, another endemic Garden Isle species, as they are critically endangered. But you could catch a rare glimpse of an ‘anianiau, Hawai‘i’s littlest honeycreeper; an ÿelepaio, a curious bird that might seek you out first; an ‘i‘iwi, a distinct honeycreeper with an elongated, curved beak; or a Kaua‘i ‘amakihi, a small olive green honeycreeper. Follow up an active adventure like birding with a respite at Kökeÿe Lodge where body and soul can recharge with a warm bowl of Portuguese bean soup or a fresh cup of coffee by the fireplace. Or, receive the most out of Kökeÿe’s allure and spend the night snuggled in the woods. Hear nothing but the song of native crickets at night and wake up to the delightful trills of birds in the morning and gain a jump-start to the day before the whirl of traffic and throngs of people arrive. Several locations are available for camping, as long as proper permits are obtained beforehand. Another no-frills overnight option is The Cabins at Kokee Park—a small step above camping and an equal opportunity for spending more time in this captivating countryside. Kökeÿe State Park offers sweeping views of some of the most gorgeous vistas on Kauaÿi. Plan at least a half-day scenic tour of this pristine location that showcases some of the Garden Isle’s best natural artistry from the great chasms of Waimea Canyon to the lush valleys of the Näpali Coast. Visit http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/kauai/kokee-statepark/ for more information. 40

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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STYLE

Van Balen Fine Jewelry

SHOP KAUA‘I 42

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

ISLAND STYLE

The essence of Hawaiian lifestyle and tradition has been captured in the Na Hoku collection of fine jewelry. Hawaiian for “stars,” Na Hoku also stands for incomparable quality and craftsmanship. At Na Hoku, you will find original pieces set with Tahitian pearls, diamonds and colored gemstones, as well as collections by renowned designers such as Kabana®, Le Vian® and Eﬀy®. Every piece of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry is designed to accent the individuality, taste and style of the one who wears it, and will forever be a memento of a treasured time in the islands. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops (808) 742-1863 and Poipu Shopping Village (808) 742-7025. NaHoku.com.

One-of-a-kind LEIKO clutch purses (above). Vintage lines capture the essence of the 1960’s era. Some come from Tutu’s old dresses or uncle's favorite aloha shirts. These vintage fabrics are really great memories—its a special part of our lives when things were simple, wholesome and stress-free. Sophisticated suede leather mid-heel sandal (right) with adjustable ankle strap and buckle, lightly padded insoles. Available at Shoe Envy in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops.

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STYLE

ISLAND STYLE Shop these glamorous designs available at Van Balen Fine Jewelry in The St. Regis Princeville Resort.

Tahitian Black pearls in every color for every occasion. Perfectly round, high quality, naturally colored strands with 12mm pearls,Â in any length requested. Prices range from $6000 and up.

Day or night ~ every lady needs a pair of pearl earrings. This pair of Tahitian black pearls showcase a round pair of 11 mm pearls highlighted by a quarter carat of white diamonds. Price $3200. Available in Golden Indonesian pearls, and South Sea white Australian pearls. Classic pearl stud earrings without diamonds are also available in every color, prices range from $525 to $2200.

Diamond rings are always a favorite! The perfect Anniversary gift, these sparkly bands can be worn individually or look amazing stacked together. Prices range from $1200. and up. Sizing included at no charge! Appraisal included.

A bracelet to die for ~ Cognac diamonds and fancy yellow diamond center stones in various cuts, naturally colored and certified with white diamond accents. Price available upon request. Appraisal included.

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

ISLAND SHOPPING NORTH SHORE SHOPPING VAN BALEN FINE JEWELRY Our internationally renowned pearl jewelry is hand made on Kaua‘i by Valerie Van Balen, crafted with exquisite attention to detail. In addition to her own creations, Valerie has traveled the globe discovering other world class jewelers, whom she now represents. This allows for a virtual “around the world” shopping experience, all within one relaxing location. We welcome you to visit our store and adorn yourself in our exotic pearl jewelry from Tahiti, Australia and Indonesia. We also

carry an enticing selection of ethical diamonds in a multitude of shapes, sizes and colors. Our highly educated staff will provide you with flawless service, guaranteed. Enhance your visit to Kaua‘i by selecting from an unsurpassed collection of fine jewelry. Van Balen Fine Jewelry is the exclusive jeweler to the prestigious St. Regis Princeville Resort, open everyday from 9am to 9pm. (808) 826-6555. SOUTH SHORE SHOPPING GRAND HYATT SHOPS The shops at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i offer

something for everyone. Na Hoku features an alluring collection of Tahitian pearls and more. Collectors Fine Art showcases wall art and handblown glass creations. Lamonts carries sundries, snacks and beverages. The Sandal Tree offers a selection of footwear and accessories. Reyn’s continues its tradition of aloha wear for the whole family. Visit Poipu Bay Golf Shop for designer collections for on and off the course. Try Water Wear for beachwear for every age group. Kohala Bay Collections features casual designer elegance.

Princeville Resort

5520 Ka Haku Road • Princeville, HI 96722 808.826.6555 • info@ValVanBalen.com

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STYLE

ISLAND STYLE

14k gold necklace set with an Australian "pin fire" Crystal Opal and diamond accent (above). Sterling silver hand hammered double drop earring with chain link (above, right). 14k gold ring set with a rare Green Tourmaline and princess cut diamonds (right). Available at Grande's Gems at the Kauai Marriott Resort or The Shops at Kukuiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ula.

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

ISLAND SHOPPING + LIVING SOUTH SHORE & LĪHU‘E GRANDE’S GEMS Grande’s Gems Hawai‘i has been featuring nature inspired and romantic jewelry since 1982. Our guests will find fun fashionforward and elegant jewelry in opal, multicolor gemstones, diamond, Tahitian, golden and south sea pearls. Sea life and tropical flower jewelry from Denny Wong and Mikel. Visit us at Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 and our newest location at The Shops at Kukui‘ula (808) 742-2828, or online at GrandesGemshawaii.com. MENS HARDWEAR Mens Hardwear is all about the guys. Jewelry, knives, watches, and accessories for men in cool and edgy styles. Featuring men’s jewelry from Scott Kay, Edward Mirell, Triton, and Hellmuth. Tahitian pearl and opal designs from Mens Hardwear collection. Knives from William Henry Studio and Cold Steel. Visit us at our two locations on Kaua‘i, or shop online at menshardwear.com.

REAL ESTATE HŌKŪALA Höküala, A Timbers Resort, enjoys a setting among the most spectacular in all of the Hawaiian Islands, a 450-acre natural amphitheater with an unobstructed panorama from the ocean to coastline to sculpted mountains beyond. In the poetic language of native Hawaiians, Höküala means ‘Rising Star’. It is fitting, then, that this epic resort will evolve gradually, beginning with Timbers Kaua‘i - Ocean Club & Residences, a residential enclave located on the ocean's edge of the Pacific. The award-winning Jack Nicklaus Signature Ocean Course, already rated among the very best, features the longest stretch of continuous oceanfront holes in all of Hawai‘i. Höküala offers a rare and delicate balance between adventure and serenity, discovery and accessibility. The evolving vision is to create a place and experience that unites us all in the

celebration of the island, its culure, and its people. For more information, call (808) 7206688 or (800) 269-2364. Visit them online at hokualakauai.com/traveler. KUKUI‘ULA Inspired by the authentic Kaua‘i island culture, and named for the candlenut (kukui) torches that once guided the island’s fishermen back to shore, Kukui‘ula is a Kaua‘i community that offers our homeowners the laid-back lifestyle of classic Hawai‘i. At the heart of our carefully planned Hawai‘i luxury homes, nestled above Kukui‘ula Bay, are the Plantation House, Spa and Makai Pools. From here, the Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course follows the natural flow of the land through the community’s coffee fields, meadows and rolling hillsides — affording wide, panoramic vistas of the Pacific. Call (808) 201-0380 or visit kukuiula.com or lodgeatkukuiula.com.

NA HOKU An incomparable collection of the finest Hawaiian and Island Lifestyle jewelry for women and men; Na Hoku is recognized in Hawai‘i and the world for its exquisite islandinspired designs; from our original Hawaiian slipper (flip flop) pendant, our elegant Palm Tree Jewelry Collection, the timeless Na Hoku diamond solitaire engagement ring and bridal collections, to our extensive Plumeria Jewelry Collection and our traditional Hawaiian jewelry. Featuring unique collections by Kabana, Steven Douglas, Asch/Grossbardt, and Levian, as well as our exquisite Tahitian Pearl designs. Na Hoku jewelry captures the essence of Hawaiian and island lifestyle and is unmatched in quality and craftsmanship. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops (808) 7421863 and Poipu Shopping Village (808) 7427025 or at nahoku.com. ISLAND LIVING AT KUKUI‘ULA myhawaiitraveler.com

LITTLE SHOP OF SMILES WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

KIKO Simple Goods, known to the locals as just “KIKO,” is a charming, small shop in Kapa‘a. Like none other, the space evokes all of the feelings of a really good friendship, one that constantly clicks and is accompanied by lots of laughter, warmth and fun. The shop is built on the close friendship of two women, Micki Evslin and Vicky Fennell, who met in Guam in 1977, and a mother-daughter relationship, as Vicky’s daughter, Natasha Biggart, is the third owner. It is not surprising, then, that so much connectedness among these remarkable women gives the place a welcoming feeling, similar to a warm embrace. After decades of talking about opening their own shop, the women decided to take the leap four years ago. Micki called Vicky and said they “were running out of time” (both sharing the young age of 67). The timing was ideal as Natasha was available to manage the store. She had studied art and interior design and worked as a buyer for a designer who, she describes, “had a beautiful lifestyle shop in Montauk” in the Hamptons coastal region of New York. Several qualities resulted in a commonality among the owners, that they see themselves as “closeted artists,” share a love for travel with life experiences all over the world, and appreciate things of beauty, but not so much in a formal sense as a simple one. Although the three initially agreed that each would have a veto in buying, Micki says, “It’s rarely invoked because we all tend to like the same things.” Their common eye gravitates to “Japanese handicrafts and graphics” and “useful things like brushes, brooms, lights, myhawaiitraveler.com

textiles and household goods,” as well as what is required to make art, such as “good pencils, pens, papers, dyes, paints, etc.” It is hard to know the best place to begin at KIKO, with such a diverse range of appealing books, art, clothing, and handpicked items. Visitors are sure to feast their eyes on things they have never seen before and things that will make them smile. Definitely, the art on the large back wall and scattered throughout is a smile teaser. Jo (Johannette) Rowley, whose studio is in Honolulu, experiments in ceramic heads and faces from a fantasy world. “They often have a childlike innocence and whimsy made possible by her tremendous skill,” Micki states admiringly. “We even carried some heads she created with her eyes closed, and they sold immediately. She often attaches little red birds to her heads, seemingly randomly, because they have a personal meaning.” Jo is an artist who seems to be very familiar with flights of fancy. Of her experience with clay, the artist writes, “I love the way you can take a handful of earth, and create something wonderful, special, interesting, thought provoking, amusing…I am inspired by all the strange and wonderful things that enter into my awareness.” Significantly, her work has been exhibited at the Honolulu Museum of Art, but visitors can admire and purchase her works at KIKO’s. Kaua‘i artist Fanny Bilodeau is best known for her sense of humor in painting island chickens and catching them in the act of all sorts of imagined antics, for instance, driving 49

golf carts and vintage woodies. She has titled several of her paintings Hens Misbehavin’. For KIKO, she has used a different medium, creating sculptures of fish out of pieces of driftwood. When visitors enter the shop, they immediately set gaze on Fanny’s wall hangings, some with fully exaggerated fish tails splashing wildly and others more minimalist, constructed from a few pieces of wood. Born in Zaire (presently the Democratic Republic of the Congo) and schooled in Belgium, she grew up criss-crossing continents, much as her creative instincts travel to different subjects and media. Her studio houses jars filled with materials she has painstakingly collected while combing the beaches of Kauaÿi, incorporating the natural elements into her sculptures. KIKO also sells her beach glass with a hue resembling celadon for display in clear glass jars or for customers to use in their own creations. Bon Moore is another local artist who makes coloring books for the store from her intricate designs. Born in Fukui, Bon studied art in college in Hyogo, and clearly exhibits Japanese influences in her drawings. With the multiplicity and specificity of the lines she uses in her illustrations, it is almost as if her drawings are fibrous. That impression is close to the mark as Bon learned how to extract and work with coconut and other local plant fibers when she came to the island. Consequently, her drawings seem to have a “woven” quality or, at least, the sensitive precision of a weaver. She, too, explores different media and creates a variety of products from woven lauhala (the leaves of the hala tree used traditionally for handicrafts on island) to coconut and shell earrings. Her experience as an artisan inspires her art, which fits in well with the aesthetic of the shop. KIKO does not see itself as a gallery, but a space that presents opportunities to all kinds of artists and “makers,” who find beauty in the primitive and natural. If you are feeling bookish, KIKO definitely has an answer for your desire, at any stage and age of bookishness. Customers often comment on how much they like the children’s selections and books by local authors. Natasha is the owner gifted with the book-picker sense. When I asked her what was her secret to book buying, she responded, 50

“It’s just a collection of books we’ve loved and would love to read.” Once again, the owners’ deeply personal touch succeeds. For example, the store features copies of Bernard Evslin’s Heroes, Gods and Monsters of the Greek Myths, thinking it would be “fun,” according to Natasha, to carry the book written by Micki’s late father-in-law. As the book sparked my interest, I ordered it, only to find out it had sold over ten million copies, and I have been happily reading these myths told as stories, a genre which is familiar on an island where everyone seems to have an interesting story and likes to engage in talk story (chatting with friends). As a writer, I was immediately drawn to The Elements of Style (Illustrated), a later edition of the foundational text by William Strunk, Jr. and E.B. White originally published in 1918 and often required college reading since that time. It is updated and uplifted with 57 illustrations by Maira Kalman, with the Los Angeles Times describing it as “so friendly, so classic, so delightful…” Natasha promised her brother, who had collected the various editions of Strunk and White, that she would carry the book if she ever opened a shop. And if you love to cook or just like reading recipes, KIKO’s has an enthralling cookbook selection. There was never a business plan for the store, only an agreement among three women, closely related, that they would carry things they loved. It would, indeed, be hard to superimpose a plan on something that grew organically from linked personalities. How does one explain that a small, flexible spatula would be found in the same space as Burmese baby shoes, healing Chinese oil next to bags made from vintage rice sacks (by a matron in her nineties in Honolulu), Mexican otomi (indigenous embroidered) pillows in front of, well, Fanny’s two-foot driftwood sculpture of a chicken riding on a pig, chasing a fishing pole dangling a corn cob at the end of the line? I asked Natasha what three words she would use to describe KIKO, and she summed it up perfectly—“eclectic, fun, collective.” KIKO is located in Old Kapaÿa Town on Kühiö Highway and is open every day from 10am to 6pm. Call (808) 822-5096 or visit KikoKauai.com for more information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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PHOTO COURTESY: KIPU RANCH ADVENTURES

ADVENTURE

SPORT + ADVENTURE The spirit of adventure thrives on the Garden Isle with secret waterfalls, beaches and hiking trails to excite the explorer in all of us. With so much to discover in the vast ocean, valleys, parks and rivers, the choices are endless and the unmatched beauty is complimentary. 52

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

M MULTI-YEAR WINNER!

“Our pilot was terrific and his narration was superb. The whole staff was friendly, attentive and helpful from the minute we arrived for check-in until we waved Aloha.

The entire experience was the

absolute high point of our vacation.” Satisfied JHH Customer

Eurocopter AStar Doors On

“Going to Kauai and not taking a helicopter flight is like going to the Sistine Chapel and not looking up.” The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook

Hughes 500 Doors Off

Now all you have to do is decide…

Dfi Dfifiwfififly wfi fly “Doors-On” fir “Doors-Off”?

808.245.3774 www.helicopters-kauai.com

Off-Island Toll-Free: 1.888.245.2001 FfififiPfirtfififi5fiCfirtfififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififi Tour paths will vary according to weather conditions. Weight Restrictions Apply. 24-Hour Cancellation Notice Required.

SPORT + ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE GUIDE AIR TOURS JACK HARTER HELICOPTERS

Jack Harter is the Originator of Helicopter Tours on Kaua‘i. Jack’s motto is “Imitated by All, Equaled by None!” All of the employees at Jack Harter Helicopters work to carry on Jack’s reputation of providing safe, high quality tours that become cherished memories. Choose a 60 or 90 minute narrated tour offered in two types of helicopters. Their luxurious, air-conditioned, 6-passenger Eurocopter AStar features huge floor-to-ceiling windows for unsurpassed visibility and a two-way intercom system with BOSE noise canceling headsets. Adventurous travelers who seek a little more excitement may want to consider a flight in one of Jack Harter Helicopters’ 4-passenger Hughes 500 helicopters which are flown with the DOORS OFF. FAA Part 135 Certified. Call (808) 245-3774 or helicopters-kauai.com.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience Kaua‘i’s hidden wonders that can only be discovered from the air. See areas where no one has ever set foot. Your tour will include famous areas that make Kaua‘i a favorite location for Hollywood filmmakers. You will see lush valleys dotted with waterfalls, colorful Waimea Canyon and the impenetrable Näpali Coast known for its towering razor sharp cliffs and secluded beaches. Depart from Lï‘hue Heliport or the exclusive Princeville Heliport. Call (808) 245-5953.

EXPLORE KAUA‘I ATV TOURS

Venture into Kaua‘i’s lush, tropical paradise on the back of a semi-automatic, easy to use All Terrain Vehicle. Choose one of our daily ATV expeditions through the gorgeous mountains of Kaua‘i’s south side for an unforgettable experience on the road less traveled. Ride your own ATV on 22,000 acres of private dirt roads and trails. Enjoy breathtaking mountain and coastline views, unspoiled tropical landscapes inaccessable to the general public and a half mile tunnel through the heart of the Ha‘upu mountain range. Come join us for the ultimate off-road adventure. Call (808) 742-2734.

KIPU RANCH ADVENTURES

We are proud to be one of the top eco-tours in Hawai‘i. We enable visitors and residents alike to discover the rich history, landscape and legends that make Kaua‘i unique. Guests return to us year after year because of our enthusiastic dedication to high standards of quality and service. Adventure lovers enjoy the thrills of our ATVs while nature lovers and photography enthusiasts enjoy our Rhino and Ranger passenger tours. We also cater to private groups, families, companies and weddings. Spend a few hours with us and see why we are the number one ATV tour in Hawaii! You will be deeply moved by your experience of genuine aloha, history and tropical adventure. Call (808) 246-9288 or visit kiputours.com.

Ranked #3 in best courses you can play in hawaii. - Golfweek

One of the top 5 greatest golf settings in the united states.

- Nat. Geo. Traveler

PRINCEVILLE RANCH ADVENTURES

Go mauka. Get away from the crowds and find yourself in nature. Explore a hidden part of Kaua’i rarely seen and experience the pure natural wonder of our 2,500-acre family ranch on the North Shore. Princeville Ranch has it all: ziplines, horseback riding, 4x4 off-roading, hiking, kayaking and secluded waterfalls. Glide over green valleys and jungles. We’ve got an extensive Kauai zipline course for all levels. Looking for excitement, speed, and flying mud? Blast through streams and get ready for “permagrin” because our fleet of 4x4 side-by-sides will take you to some amazing places. Enjoy panoramic views of our working cattle ranch on horseback. Both group and private rides are available, and we can accommodate beginners up to expert riders. Along the way, our friendly guides share the history and culture of both Kaua‘i and the Ranch. Or how about kayaking down a gentle, jungle stream and hiking through a lush rainforest? Or swimming plus a picnic at a stunning private waterfall? We even offer combination adventures so you and your family can mix up the fun. There’s an adventure for everyone at Princeville Ranch! Call (808) 826-7669 or visit us at princevilleranch.com.

GOLF MAKAI GOLF CLUB

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The Makai Golf Club at Princeville has long been considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier golf facilities. The distinct layout of the course strategically winds around serene lakes and native woodlands, while capitalizing on spectacular coastline views. With the recent renovation by original architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. complete, the course is now open for play! For reservations and information, please call (808) 826-1912 for tee times or visit makaigolf.com.

POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE

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KOLOA ZIPLINE

Come experience the breathtaking beauty of Köloa; from the beauty of the natural settings to the preservation of the rich history of the land. Travel through and above a variety of ecosystems located on Grove Farm lands on 8 fantastic ziplines. Watch the sun set on our Sunset Tour and fly hands free over the jungle like your favorite super hero in our custom upgradeable Flyin’ Kauai’an Harness. Brave the island’s longest lines at Koloa Zipline! Call (808) 7422734 or visit koloazipline.com.

Sprawled between lush mountains and rugged ocean cliffs on Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore, Poipu Bay Golf Course boasts 18 championship holes that are as visually stunning as they are challenging. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Poipu Bay is one of the most highly acclaimed resort courses in the Pacific. From 1994-2006, the course played host to the annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf, one of the most prestigious tournaments in the golf world. A round at Poipu Bay Golf Course affords you the opportunity to experience the sheer pleasures and daunting challenges of a course recognized as one of America’s finest and to “play where champions play.” Call (808) 742-8711 or visit poipubaygolf.com. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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SPORT + ADVENTURE

SNORKEL, SAIL & SURF BLUE DOLPHIN CHARTERS

The highlight of any vacation has to be a Kaua‘i Näpali Coast sailing tour, sailing down the Näpali with dolphins surfing at the bow of your catamaran, is the ultimate in ecotourism and adventure travel. We offer the best ocean sightseeing experience and whale watching tours of any charter boat company in the Hawaiian Islands. Our Kaua‘i sailing tours also venture to Ni‘ihau, The Forbidden Island, and along the shores of Po‘ipü Beach for a romantic sunset sail. Everyone enjoys scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and the true spirit of aloha from our experienced, fun loving, crew. (808) 335-5553. Visit us online at kauaiboats.com. Located in Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele.

HOLOHOLO CHARTERS

The memories should last a lifetime, not the trip getting there. Our two boats, Leila and Holo Holo, get you to the action quicker than anybody else, so you have more time to snorkel, sightsee, relax and enjoy the pristine waters and spectacular cliffs of Kaua‘i’s Näpali Coast, and the “forbidden island” of Ni‘ihau. We offer morning snorkel sails along the Näpali Coast with an optional tour to Ni‘ihau. We also offer romantic Näpali sunset sails in the evening. Located in the Port Allen Marina Center in Elee‘le. Call (808) 335-0815 for reservations or visit us online at holoholocharters.com.

KAUA‘I SEA TOURS

Kaua‘i Sea Tours is unique among the boat tour operators on Kaua‘i, as they offer both traditional catamaran tours and adventurous zodiac boat tours of the Näpali Coast. Both tours are run by experienced boat captains, who are educated on Kaua‘i wildlife, conservation and history. Come aboard Kaua‘i Sea Tours for a “can’t miss” adventure! Take advantage of our unique permits to land on the Näpali Coast and hike into an ancient Hawaiian Fishing Village. Enjoy our delicious, catered lunch on board and view some of the most diverse marine life in Hawai‘i. We’ve been granted a State Parks Special Use Permit, which means you’ll see remote beaches where others can’t go. Tours depart from Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele, 4353 Wai‘alo Rd. Ste 2B-3B. Call (808) 8267254 for reservations.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA™ & LI’L MO BETTA™ are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver fresh-air on every breath. Sumo™ Mask & Bigfoots™ fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & FREE 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie Board for the week. Open 8 to 5 Every Day. Located in Kapa‘a (808)823-9433 and Koloa (808)742-2206, or visit snorkelbob.com.

ATTRACTIONS NORTH SIDE ALAKA‘I WILDERNESS PRESERVE

The Alaka‘i Wilderness area is a mystical rainforest in the high plateau near Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale and is home to some of Hawai‘i’s rarest plants and endangered birds. On clear days, you can see breathtaking views of Hanalei and Wainiha valleys. The park includes nature trails and a boardwalk over marshy terrain to explore the most interior park in Kaua‘i. The Alaka‘i Swamp is 10 miles long and two miles wide. Wear appropriate hiking clothes (bring a sweater) and shoes. The boardwalk can be very slippery, wet and muddy at times. The trail ends at the vista of Kilohana on the edge of Wainiha Pali. Located off Hwy 550 adjacent to Köke‘e State Park. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather info in Köke‘e or hawaiitrails.org.

DRY AND WET CAVES

Maniniholo Dry Cave is said to have been dug out by Manini-holo, the chief fisherman of the Menehune in search of an evil spirit who stole the fish intended for the Menehunes. Scientifically, sea caves are formed by ocean waves pounding away at the lava for thousands of years. The grotto is covered with fern and vines and is located across Hä‘ena Beach Park off Rte. 560. Waikapala‘e Wet Cave and Waikanaloa Wet Cave are the remains of an ancient lava tube created by the forces of the sea. The cold water in the caves is fed by underground springs and the level of water depends on the tides. The caverns are said to have been used as a gathering place for chiefs in ancient times. Swimming is not recommended due to the presence of leptospirosis found in fresh water. Wear appropriate shoes to prevent injury from the slippery lava rock. Located western end of Rte. 560. Both wet caves are located just before mile marker #10 on the left, past Hä‘ena Beach Park.

HANALEI VALLEY OVERLOOK

A Treasure By Design

More than beautiful, the Hanalei Valley is mystical, magical and substantial, with spectacular vistas and a half-mile patchwork of taro ponds. The fertile and ancient kalo lo‘i (the flooded taro fields) of Hanalei have fed the Hawaiians since the first Polynesians arrived here over a thousand years ago. Currently, it still produces most of the state’s taro for poi, a Hawaiian staple. You can see the 900-acre National Wildlife Refuge from the overlook. Located on Hwy 56 in Princeville.

KĪLAUEA LIGHTHOUSE

A National Historic Landmark, this lighthouse had the largest clamshell lens of any lighthouse in the world and served as a beacon since it was built in 1913 to guide passing sea and air traffic. The light was replaced in the 1970s with a low-maintenance light beacon. You can walk into the lighthouse but not the lantern room. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Call (808) 828-0168.

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KĪLAUEA POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

A refuge for several species of seabirds, some nesting and some endangered, surrounds the lighthouse. Red-footed boobies, Laysan albatrosses, wedge-tailed shearwaters and the magnificent frigate bird with 7½-foot wingspan are just some examples of birds that can be seen at the refuge. Make reservations for the two-hour guided hikes through the refuge, available Monday through Thursday. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is $3 per person; children under 16 are free. Call (808) 828-0168.

LIMAHULI GARDENS

Beautiful botanical garden in a lush tropical valley is used to preserve native flora and fauna in its natural environment. It is also home to endangered plants. Built by early inhabitants, you can walk through the lava terraces and see the working taro patches in the ancient Hawaiian tradition. Reservations are required for guided tours. Self-guided tours are $15 for adults and free for children 12 and under. Wear comfortable walking shoes; umbrellas are provided (mosquito repellant may be necessary). Open Tuesday-Friday from 9:30am-4pm. Located on Rte 560 in Hä‘ena. Call (808) 826-1053 or ntbg.org.

NĀPALI COAST AND STATE PARK

The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile trek through the spectacular Näpali Coast. From Kë‘ë to Hanakäpï‘ai Beach is about 2 miles. There is an uneven trail (for the physically fit) to a waterfall and freshwater river pool about 2 additional miles back of the Hanakäpï‘ai Valley. The park consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, high sea cliffs, lush valleys and amazing views. The hike beyond Hanakäpï‘ai can be strenuous and is suitable for experienced hikers only. There are several campsites in the park, but make plans well in advance since permits are limited and the wait list can be long. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is at the end of Hwy 56. Call (808) 274-3444 or visit hawaii.gov/dlnr/ dsp/fees.html for camping information.

WAI‘OLI MISSION HOUSE

Built in 1837, the missionary home is set in beautiful Hanalei Valley and was restored by descendants of the first missionaries Lucy and Abner Wilcox. The house was restored in 1921 by the granddaughter and houses historical furnishings made from koa wood. Located off Kuhio Hwy. Free. Open Tues., Thurs., and Sat. 9am-3pm. Call (808) 245-3202.

EAST SIDE FERN GROTTO

A beautiful, natural amphitheater of volcanic rock covered with enormous fishtail ferns, is the venue of choice for many weddings. The only way to reach the Fern Grotto is either to kayak upriver or book a boat ride. The latter has the reputation of being a bit cheeky and a tourist trap, but if you don’t feel like the exercise then be prepared to sing along. Nevertheless, you will enjoy the lush, tropical scenery along the way. Located in Wailua River State Park. 58

KAMOKILA HAWAIIAN VILLAGE

An authentic recreation of an ancient Hawaiian folk village illustrates ancient Hawaiian lifestyle on 3 acres of private land. The last king of Kaua‘i once resided here. Several huts and displays show how ancient Hawaiians lived, including a courtyard featuring Hawaiian games, such as spear throwing and Hawaiian bowling, which were essential in building skills. Admission: $5 adults, $3 children for self-guided tours. Located on the east shore of the Wailua River Valley at 6060 Kuamo‘o Road (Rte 580) across from Öpaeka‘a Falls. Call (808) 823-0559.

KEĀHUA ARBORETUM

The serene 30-acre refuge with streams and freshwater pools is a perfect setting for a picnic surrounded by mountains and lush foliage. The arboretum is divided by the stream and has a variety of foliage including monkeypods, mango, eucalyptus trees, ‘öhi‘a lehua and hibiscus. Picnic areas and pavilions can be found throughout the area for your enjoyment. There are two short hiking trails through the park. You can access the trailheads for Kuilau-Ridge Trail (incredible views from this trail) and the Moalepe Trail from this area. Open sunrise to sunset. Located down the road from the Wailua Reservoir on Hwy 580. Call (808) 241-4463.

ŌPAEKA‘A FALLS

This beautiful waterfall is the easiest to view, as it tumbles out of the jungle into a dramatic plunge over a high cliff about a 150-feet into the Wailua River. The name means "rolling shrimp," for the days when swarms of shrimp were seen rolling in turbulent waters at the base of the falls. The best time to view the cascading falls is mid-morning, and the best view is from the path along the highway. Located in Wailua off Hwy 56 on Kuamo’o Rd (Rte. 580) at mile marker 6.

ROYAL BIRTHSTONES

Royalty came to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the sacred birthstones of Pöhaku Ho‘ohönau. According to legend, if the child was to become a great chief, the heavens would rupture with thunder and lightning followed by rain. When the baby’s umbilical cord fell off, it was wrapped in kapa (cloth made from bark) and placed in the crevices of the Pöhaku Piko for safekeeping. Located Kuamo‘o Rd. (Rte. 580) in Wailua River State Park.

SLEEPING GIANT VIEWPOINT

This formation on Mt. Nounou that sort of resembles a giant is a landmark between Wailua and Kapa‘a. There are several myths and legends surrounding the Sleeping Giant. According to one, the villagers tricked a giant named Puni into eating stones to keep him from eating all the fish and taro, and he fell asleep with a full tummy, never to wake again. Mount Nounou Trail is about a two-mile trek through the forest to the summit of the Sleeping Giant’s belly with spectacular views of the Island and sometimes, O‘ahu can be seen 110 miles east. The hiking trail begins on Haleilio Road. To view the Sleeping Giant, look for the sign marking the viewing area near the Chevron station in Kapa‘a. Located off Hwy 56.

WAILUA RIVER STATE PARK

A popular place to spend a day for the wide range of activities, as well as the lush scenery of tropical foliage, Wailua River is the only navigable river in the state. Activities in the park include water skiing, kayaking, hiking trails, famous waterfalls, the Fern Grotto, an ancient Hawaiian Village, and seven sacred heiau and historic landmarks. At the mouth of the river, ancient petroglyph carvings on large stones can be seen depending on the amount of sand in the area. Once the banks were a favorite dwelling place for high chiefs and kings of Kaua‘i. If you want to kayak on your own without a guide, only three kayak rental companies rent kayaks for the Wailua River. Kayakers should stay on the right side of the river. No guided kayak tours are available on Sundays. Wailua River is located off Kuhio Hwy. Scenic views and historic sites can be accessed from Kuamo‘o Rd. Call (808) 241-4463

LI‘HUĒ & SOUTH SIDE ‘ALEKOKO (MENEHUNE) FISHPOND

Built for a young chief, this fishpond was unique in that it was built for the river instead of the coast like most others. The fishpond once covered 40 acres and consisted of a 900 ft. long wall that separated the fishpond from the stream, but today only remnants remain of the great wall. According to legend, the Menehune built the massive aquaculture facility in one night before sailing away on a floating island. Located off Hwy 50. Take Puhi Rd. to the end, and then turn left on Hulemalu Rd. The fishpond can be seen from the overlook.

GROVE FARM HOMESTEAD

The lovely plantation home was built in 1864 and opened as a living museum in 1978, featuring many displays and exhibits to paint the life of the sugar plantation days gone by. The historic home is beautifully furnished and has a staircase made from native koa wood. The grounds include giant trees and tropical flower gardens. Located south of Lihue on Highway 58. Admission is $20 and $10 for children 12 & under. Access is by tour only, which is offered twice a day Mon., Wed., and Thurs. at 10am and 1pm. Call (808) 245-3202 to make reservations in advance.

KAUA‘I MUSEUM

With artifacts, vintage photographs and exhibits, Kaua‘i Museum presents a factual look into Kaua‘i’s history. The galleries include a permanent collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts. Located 4428 Rice Street. Admission is $10. Call (808) 245-6931 for information.

KUKUI O LONO PARK

Because the park is set on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. The tranquil park is a lovely place to have a romantic picnic with sweeping ocean views of Läwa‘i Valley. Kukui O Lono means light of the god Lono. Located on Papalina Road off Hwy 50 in Kaläheo.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

The National Tropical Botanical Garden is an exceptional preserve and houses the world’s largest collection of rare and endangered plants, and includes the Allerton, McBryde and Limahuli (North Shore.) The gardens are stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre tropical retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. McBryde Garden is set in seclusion between rugged cliffs, making it ideal for learning about the native plants while viewing rare and endangered Hawaiian species. Call (808) 742-2623 or ntbg.org.

PRINCE KŪHĪO PARK

At Prince Kühïo Park you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He is known as “People’s Prince” because of his great accomplishments for native Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace with a statue. While here, you can see the Hoai Heiau, the foundation of Prince Kühïo’s home, and the royal fishpond. Located on Läwai Road.

KALALAU VALLEY LOOKOUT

The lookout provides panoramic views into the majestic valley—without breaking a sweat—from the 18 mile marker. It is one of the most spectacular views on earth with striking sea cliffs and the cobalt Pacific looks into the largest valley in Näpali. Kalalau Valley is dramatic, with jagged emerald ridges, and is best viewed in the morning to avoid the clouds. Further ahead is Pu‘u o Kila Lookout, which offers even more astonishing views of the valley and the deep blue ocean. Both lookouts are located at the end of the Köke‘e Road. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather information.

KŌKE‘E NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

This little museum provides interpretive programs and exhibitions about Kaua‘i’s climate, geology and ecology. The museum has great information about the forest, hiking trails and conditions and sells maps and local books. Located past the 15 mile marker off Köke‘e Road. Turn left after the park headquarters. The museum is next to Köke‘e Lodge just before the campground. Open everyday 10am-4pm. Free. Call (808) 335-9975 or visit kokee.org.

MENEHUNE DITCH (KĪKĪ A OLA)

Only remnants remain of what was once a great watercourse and aqueduct that extended 25 miles up the Waimea River—made from smooth lava stone

brought from Mokihana. Legend has it that the Menehune, race of little people, built the ditch in one night for the high chief of Waimea to irrigate the taro patches for Waimea residents for payment of shrimp. Archaeologists say the historic site was built before Polynesians came, possibly by the Menehune. Located off Hwy 50 on Menehune Rd. just before the 23mile marker.

WAIMEA CANYON LOOKOUT

The Grand Canyon of the Pacific is a breathtaking gaping gorge with dramatic ridges and deep ravines shaped by the steady process of erosion and collapse of the volcano that formed Kaua‘i. It is roughly 10 miles long and 3,600 feet deep. The canyon is spectacular and majestic with jewel-tone colors of reds and greens. Take the scenic but narrow drive on Waimea Canyon Drive (Rte 550) from Hwy 50, or turn up the steep Köke‘e Road at Kekaha. The two roads merge into Köke‘e Road after a few miles up. Waimea Canyon Lookout is between mile markers 10 and 11. Check out the spectacular vistas from scenic lookouts at Pu‘u Hina Hina (3,336 feet elevation), where the private island of Ni‘ihau can be seen on clear days, and Pu‘u Ka Pele where the Waipo‘o Falls are visible after a heavy rainfall. Be prepared for cooler weather, and make sure you have some fuel in your car. Waimea Canyon Drive ends at Kalalau Lookout about 4 miles above the park.

SPOUTING HORN

To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave. Located across from the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Läwai Road.

TREE TUNNEL

Giant eucalyptus trees planted over 150 years ago by Scotchman Walter Duncan McBryde create the Tree Tunnel, the gateway into Koloa and Po‘ipü. Turn south on Hwy 520, Maluhia Rd.

WAILUA FALLS

A stunning 80-foot tiered waterfall is easy to view close to the roadside lookout. Nicknamed the Fantasy Island waterfalls for the prominent opening scene of the falls for the hit television show. It’s best to view the falls in the morning when the sun adds to the beauty of the falls. The power of the falls depends on the rainfall. A slippery hike down a steep trail leads you to the bottom of the waterfalls for a cool swim. Located off Hwy 56, end of Ma‘alo Rd.

WEST SIDE CAPTAIN COOK’S MONUMENT

Captain James Cook, the British explorer, landed in Waimea Bay in January 1778 with his ships Resolution and Discovery, marking his first visit to the Hawaiian Islands. Facing the sea, a statue of Cook stands in Waimea to mark the historic event that would forever change Hawai‘i. Located in Hofgaard Park in the downtown area. myhawaiitraveler.com

SPORT + ADVENTURE

NATIONAL TROPICAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

GOING THE DISTANCE PROTECTING NATIVE SPECIES FROM EXTINCTION TAKES EXTREME MEASURES WORDS COCO ZICKOS

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

Steve Perlman isn’t afraid to dangle from the edge of a crumbling cliff. He doesn’t wear a cape, but he certainly has super powers when it comes to saving native plant species from the brink of extinction. Death-defying tasks are part of his decades-long mission to preserve the lives of Hawai‘i’s most endangered flora—the majority of which cling to life in the most precarious places. One such plant that Perlman, the University of Hawai‘i’s Plant Extinction Prevention Program’s (PEPP) statewide specialist, is responsible for finding and rescuing is the ÿälula (Brighamia insignis), or “cabbage-on-a-stick.” These peculiar-looking Hawaiian palm-like plants, which have a succulent, baseball-bat-like stem with a cluster of large leaves on top, once thrived on Kaua‘i. However, invasive ungulates, introduced plants and the extinction of a hawk moth that used to pollinate the ÿälula’s tubular, fragrant flowers, are among the factors that contributed to the demise of the species. Over the centuries, its population declined so intensely that hundreds of individuals were pushed to the literal edge of sheer Näpali Coast cliffs. Sadly, two major hurricanes blew through the islands since Perlman started his task of protecting his favorite native plant in the 1970s, which eliminated all of the wild individuals except for a sole survivor on Kaua‘i. The good news is that Perlman was able to collect seeds from numerous ÿälula prior to their untimely deaths. Perlman, known as an “extreme botanist,” has had thrilling adventures exploring all of the Hawaiian Islands. He hikes through miles of remote, pristine forests, tackles treacherous terrain, such as slippery rocks along the base of Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, and has taken several hundred helicopter and boat trips to unfathomable locations. “I love wilderness, forests, hiking up mountains no one else had ever climbed,” says Perlman. myhawaiitraveler.com

Because of his dedication, many species have made a significant comeback in managed settings. The National Tropical Botanical Garden, where he worked for most of his career scouting remote areas of Kaua‘i for rare plants and collecting various fruits, seeds, spores and cuttings, is home to many of these propagated species. Hundreds of ÿälula, for example, grow at its nurseries and on its grounds, including Limahuli Garden & Preserve. The species also flourishes in dozens of other botanical gardens around the globe. “I love the work I do and enjoy exploring the South Pacific still,” says Perlman. “I also hate seeing the native plants that I love going extinct before my eyes, so I am passionate about saving them.” Hawai‘i is the most isolated cluster of islands in the world, which makes its flora special—90 percent of its plants are endemic and found nowhere else in the world. Several million years ago only around 250 species of plants reached Hawai‘i by seed and subsequently evolved into about 1,300 native species. Kaua‘i, the island Perlman primarily focuses on, is the oldest in the island chain and therefore home to the most endemic species. Isolation, on the other hand, makes plants extremely vulnerable and they are especially sensitive to changes like habitat loss, invasive species and climate change. Hawai‘i, therefore, lays claim to almost 40 percent of the entire endangered plants in the U.S. and is considered the “extinction capital of the world.” PEPP focuses on about 237 plant species in Hawai‘i that have less than 50 individuals remaining in the wild that are in imminent risk of extinction. Of these, about 16 are potentially extinct in the wild and haven’t been seen in a while. It takes scientists like Perlman to find them, and once they do, PEPP takes immediate measures to protect and perpetuate them. PEPP consists of eight people who, like Perlman, are committed to saving Hawaiÿi’s native plant species. Among their responsibilities are making sure the wild “founders” are protected at all costs. Various methods to achieve this are the construction of fences to save the individuals from invasive species and the removal of non-native plants. Scientists collect seeds and other parts of the plant to preserve them off-site for storage and propagation. The progeny grow in nurseries, as well as protected locations in the wild in hopes of establishing new populations. Joan Yoshioka, PEPP’s statewide manager, says there are many highs and lows of plant conservation. The highs include when a species makes a progressive comeback or when a plant is rediscovered in the wild. But the lows can be really low. Sometimes after spending a decade attempting to restore a plant species in the wild, goats will completely obliterate them. “Makes 62

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

me want to jump for joy and sob helplessly at the same time,” says Yoshioka. Another difficulty botanists face is mitigating the effects of inbreeding due to diminished genetic diversity. That’s why it’s necessary for the PEPP’s team of brave scientists to keep searching for wild individuals because Yoshioka doesn’t want to witness any more permanent devastating loss of native species. In her lifetime, she’s experienced several plant and bird species’ extinctions and refuses to see any more. “My motto is, ‘Not on my watch!’” she says. She encourages visitors to “look below the veil of the packaged Hawai‘i” because native species are much different than the commonly seen introduced plants. “I think visitors will be surprised to know that the orchids they see as the image of Hawai‘i are not Hawaiian species at all,” she says. In fact, Hawai‘i has three orchid species with small, delicate yellow or green flowers that aren’t traditionally “showy.” One of the species is known to have less than 30 individuals left in the wild and the other two are rare. Peristylus holochila has one known individual left on Kaua‘i in the Alaka‘i Swamp, which scientists check every year, as it still creates seeds. It’s called the “Hawaiian bog orchid” because it prefers cooler, high elevations. Perlman rediscovered the plant in the late 1970s on Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale and great strides have been made to propagate the species. “If these species are lost to extinction, a bit of our Hawai‘i disappears with them and I think a bit of ourselves,” says Yoshioka. “Don’t forget, these were the first Hawaiians…here long before humans set foot on its shores. They deserve our respect because as we all feel at PEPP, they are our family, our ÿohana. And in Hawai‘i, we care for ‘ohana.” Perlman cares so much about the fate of his botanical family that, even though he’s in his 70s, he has no plans to retire or put away his hiking boots. He will continue taking risky journeys into extremely remote areas where the native Hawaiÿi wilderness grasps for life. “These species evolved over millions of years. They are the plant diversity of the world. The gems and jewels of creation,” he says. “We should save every single species. Extinction is forever.” The Plant Extinction Prevention Program protects the rare native species that are threatened and endangered from becoming extinct and lost forever. PEPP is supported by state and federal grants and donations from public and private institutions. To learn more or to donate, please visit pepphi.org. myhawaiitraveler.com

CITIZENS OF THE SEA OCEAN LIFE ENCOUNTERS WORDS ANDY BETH MILLER

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

s Kauaÿi is widely known as “The Garden Isle,” the fact that it is covered with lush rainforests, majestic mountains, and a wealth of tropical flora and fauna is not at all surprising. With such an abundance of eye-catching foliage, exciting sights, and endless adventures to be had on land, many overlook the equally fascinating offerings that are found just off Kauaÿi’s spectacular shores. The ocean is full of fascinating, colorful creatures with unique characteristics and charm. Learn a little about the common sea critters you will see off the Hawaiian waters to better appreciate each animal. It seems only fitting to start our introductions with Hawaiÿi’s official state fish—the humuhumunukunukuäpuaÿa. Pronounced “who-moo-who-moo-noo-koo-noo-koo-ah-poo-ah-ah,” the name usually trips up most visitors who just can’t seem to get through the entire name; but once you learn it, it’s hard not to say it without a little pride. Fair warning: once your keiki (children) learn to say it, they are going to want to say it—a lot. The humuhumu, for short, is a type of tropical triggerfish that you’ll often see swimming among the more shallow reefs off Kauaÿi. Its signature look, which closely resembles a Picasso painting, is etched with splashes of blue, a dash of black, triangular zigzags of bright yellow making it a striking sight—a true masterpiece of the sea. Another common finned sea critter is the Moorish idol. Beautiful, elegant, and eye-catching due to its vertical neon yellow, white, and black stripes that line its delicate and thin dorsalfinned body, this fish skyrocketed to fame after one of its own hit the big screen. Remember good ol’ Gill from Finding Nemo? Well, that tough as nails leader of the aquarium residents in one of Hollywood’s most beloved ocean flicks was none other than a Moorish idol. But, perhaps the most fascinating fact about the Moorish idol is that, when it injures its dorsal fin, the fin will actually regenerate itself quite quickly. Puhi ÿöni‘o, the whitemouth moray eel, is one of the less touchy feely critters in Kauaÿi’s sea. In fact, it can be downright dangerous. It has a brown body, which is covered in white polka dots, and the inside of its mouth is white. Hence, its trademark name. Nothing seems too menacing about this eel, at least until it comes out of its puka (hole) in the reef and bares its sharp teeth. The next sea critters are a colorful bunch, as their bodies are vivid and easy to identify. The uhu, or parrotfish, are fascinating, especially in regards to their reproduction process. When the males, who are always followed around by a gaggle of females, die, one of the females (the strongest “alpha” of the bunch) actually switches sex and becomes male in order to continue the reproductive cycle. The yellow tang practically glows and offers sea turtles a nice cleaning by removing algal growth from their shells. The boxfish has an interesting shape and looks like it swallowed a box and is beautiful to boot. Then, there’s the weke, or goatfish, which reminds you of an older gentleman with a goatee that can be seen just below their mouths. They use these whiskers to act as a detector of sorts in

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order to spot their next meal near the dark bottom of the sea. These are the more social sea critters, as they like to lounge around and travel together in schools. One fascinating fact about goatfish is that they were often used in ancient Hawaiian ceremonies, when an individual needed to experience a spiritual release or opening. As “weke” literally means “to open” in Hawaiian, you could say that the name stuck. Two elongated fish are cornetfish and trumpetfish. They are perhaps the oddest looking of the bunch, as they are both extremely long and thin, and they are often confused with one another when spotted by us land dwellers. The cornetfish most often is silver and can be found hovering just above the reef. As for the trumpetfish, it’s a keen hunter, and it can actually camouflage itself, changing color at will and even accumulating stripes in order to hide itself within its surroundings. As for the non-fishy ocean creatures found here, the honu is perhaps the most well-known. The Hawaiian green sea turtle can reach up to 400 pounds! One of the honu’s favorite places to frolic is Poÿipü Beach, so keep your eyes peeled, as they often come ashore to sunbathe. Just remember, the honu was once near extinction and is now protected by the government, which means no touching or harassing these gentle animals. Another protected marine species (standard rule is that humans myhawaiitraveler.com

must stay at least 150 feet away at all times) is the ÿïlioholoikauaua, or the Hawaiian monk seal. With only about 1,400 monk seals left in the wild, it is one of the most endangered seal species in the world. So, of course, seeing one is super special, especially considering about a 1,000 reside in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands leaving just a few to be sighted here. Although they look cuddly and approachable just remember that they can get aggressive, especially if they feel threatened. Respect their space whether you see them soaking up the sun on a sandy beach or playfully swimming in the sea. Naiÿa, or Hawaiian spinner dolphins, are the show runners of many snorkel and sail tours in Kauaÿi. This is because these beautiful and intelligent sea creatures are often seen doing somersaults and joyfully jumping out of the sparkling waters to the delight of day seafarers, while they’re out and about cruising through the waves. The ocean is a magical and wonderful place of discovery. Please respect its residents and enjoy in a pono (righteous) way. Keep in mind that sea turtles, dolphins and monk seals are protected under state and federal laws. If you see a marine animal in distress, please call NOAA’s hotline at (888) 256-9840. To report harassment of a protected species, call NOAA’s Office of Law Enforcement (800) 853-1964. 67

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EAST KAUA‘I THE ROYAL COCONUT COAST

The East Side of Kaua‘i is often referred to as the Royal Coconut Coast. Appropriately named, considering the royal history and the abundance of ancient coconut groves from Wailua to Kapa‘a. Back in the 1300s, this area was called Kawaihau (the ice water), and it was the location of choice for Hawai‘i’s royalty. Kawaihau is mainly divided into four areas: Wailua, Kapa‘a, Waipouli and Ke‘alia. The kings chose Wailua to be the capital of Kaua‘i. High chiefs believed that the area around the mouth of the Wailua River was sacred and called it Wailua Nui Hoano or Great Sacred Wailua. This sacred area extended two miles up the Wailua River. Seven heiau (shrine) were built in an arc from the shores of Wailua up Mount Wai‘ale‘ale ending on the Westside of Kaua‘i. Royalty would come to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the birthstones of Holoholok‘u. When a king was born, a kahuna (priest) would take the child up the mountain to a bell stone. He would strike the bell stone with a rock, sounding the birth of a new king. No commoner was allowed in this area unless they were servicing a chief. You can view the birthstones and five different heiau at the Wailua River State Park. Please remember that this is a special place of worship and needs to be treated with respect. Do not leave offerings or move any rocks. Below the Wailua River State Park is Lydgate Beach. Two rocklined seawater pools make it a haven for year round swimming. Above Wailua Park is Wailua homesteads. Here you will find many hiking trails and freshwater swimming holes. Waipouli (dark water) is a little town between Wailua and Kapa‘a. Before all of the commercial development, Hawaiian royalty used this area to set sail to other locations in the Pacific. Due to the sudden popularity of fractional ownership, Waipouli is now a mile-long strip of shops and modern conveniences. Old Kapa‘a Town is the remnant of an old plantation town. Most of the buildings have been renovated and filled with boutiques, bars and restaurants, making Kapa‘a a hip little hot spot. Although, there are many beach parks in the area, be very careful about swimming here. The East Shore is best known for fishing, and the rocky shoreline can be very dangerous during high tide. As the locals say, “Never turn your back to the ocean.” If you’re driving north from Kapa‘a town, you will come across a large crescent shaped, golden sand beach called Keälia. The Kapa‘a Stream flows across the south end of the beach. You may see kayakers paddling in the stream or people rinsing off after a salty dip in the ocean. The area around the beach was once a 2,000-acre sugar plantation. Today, in an effort to preserve our agricultural past, Plantation Partners have converted the area into the largest agricultural subdivision on the island. Today the Coconut Coast is lined with newly renovated resorts, spas, condominiums and residences. They provide a getaway for travelers from around the globe. 68

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LEGENDARY WAILUA THE SACRED RIVER VALLEY

WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON

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The Wailua River, which is 20 miles long, winds its

way through an enormous river valley often referred to as the greatest river valley of the state. Surrounded by marshland, agricultural land, interesting rock masses and chartreuse pastures next to forest green bluffs that form curvaceous and wandering crestlines, the river has an abundance of natural isolation that has preserved its majestic scenery. Simply put, it is one of the most scenic rivers in the world. In historical terms, it was also one of two ahupua‘a (traditional land divisions), the other being Waimea, that was home to Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), both also known as chiefly centers. Standing out in the imaginations of many generations of people on Kaua‘i, Wailua River was the source and ending for many adventures. No telling how many journeys started on that river as canoe voyagers from Kaua‘i sought the mysteries of other places. No telling how many journeys were destined for the Wailua as expectant mothers, members of the royal family, sought to deliver their babies on the birthing stones on the bank of the river in hopes of producing a future king. The kings of the island all began life on those sacred birthstones. In his 19th century Sandwich Island Notes, George Washington Bates states the following: “The Wailua River stands associated with the very genius of romance and superstition. Every object on the banks, every rock in the stream, and every cliff by which it is overlooked, has attached to it some legend of lovers, warriors, priests and kings.” Places such as this are known as wahi pana (legendary place). Indeed, Wailua is a legendary river in more than one sense of the word. Literally, it is a river that figured in Hawaiian myths and legends. The subject of a well-known Hawaiian legend, the shark man Nanaue, was supposed to have been swallowed by a whale and, then, disgorged alive and unharmed on the sandy beach at the mouth of the river. Even the demigod Mäui, according to several moÿolelo (oral stories) lived in Wailua. To the north of the river at a place called Papa ‘Alae (Mudhen Flats), Mäui “discovers the secret of fire from the ‘alae (mudhens), the fire-keeping bird kupua (demigod) who lived there” as retold by Dr. Kuÿualoha Hoÿomanawanui in Hülili (Vol. 8). Actual legend has also spawned personal legend. People have recounted remarkable experiences that hark back to the original story of the legend. Such are tales on Kauaÿi of people who have witnessed huakaÿi pö (night marchers). The story has been carried from generation to generation, parent to child. To this day, there are reports of how ghostly marchers move to the beat of drums in different places on the island, one of them the ridge that overlooks the Wailua River. Theirs is not a festival procession, but an angry march of warriors, according to some interpretations, a menacing search for the land they have lost to modernity.

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In Waimea Williams’ 2004 book Aloha, Kauaÿi: A Childhood, she recounts how one of her classmates was haunted by having seen the night watchers and only told the story once. People are superstitious of retelling their experiences unless they provoke another encounter. Those who come across their path are supposed to prostrate themselves before the marchers to escape from harm. “Sightings” are recurrent enough that The Garden Island, the local newspaper, published a story in 2006 entitled, “Night marchers spook in processions of spirits.” The allure of Wailua River Valley is not only maintained in oral history, but also in historical artifacts that speak to its legendary nature as the seat of aliÿi. A complex of heiau (shrines) located in the area are a constant reminder of the sacredness of the old Hawaiian culture. They have also been a fascinating source of study for archaeologists who have tried to understand their history. Wendell Clark Bennett, who wrote the 1931 volume, Archaeology of Kauai, states, “A heiau is the religious structure or temple of the Hawaiian. Today it consists only of the stone foundations…” which also provided space for more temporary items, structures, including thatch houses and wooden towers, ceremonial drums, and 72

objects with religious symbolism. Unfortunately, much is left to the imagination when viewing a heiau as the temporary objects no longer are in existence, so it is the stones that must tell the story of the place. The stones were selected for their mana by the creators of the heiau, that is, the spiritual power inherent in the natural forms, which suggests that these sacred places (and the knowledge and wisdom that inhere in them) are better felt than viewed, more completely known from mystical insight than physical inspection. Starting at the base of Kuamoÿo Road, it is possible to tour several sites of heiau on the left side adjacent to the river. Towards the bottom of the road, the island’s oldest heiau, traditionally named Ka Lae o Ka Manu (Crest of the Bird), is visible. It is within close walking distance to Pöhaku Hoÿohanau, the place of the royal birthing stones, set in front of a rock-walled recessed enclosure overhung by an enormous boulder. Pöhaku Piko is a part of the same stone complex and is the area where the newborn child’s umbilical cord was tucked away for safekeeping. A short drive up the road brings one to Poliahu Heiau, which is located on a bluff with a commanding view of the Wailua River running into the ocean.

As heiau served different purposes, this particular one is an example of a luakini heiau (a sacrificial place) dedicated to Kü, the god of war. Within the heiau, a kahuna (priest) presided over ceremonies meant to ensure success in war. Remarkably, the location is tied to the warrior purpose of the site since it provides a view, from mauka (mountain side) to makai (ocean), much as a fortress is located to provide a view of invaders. Visitors to these sites are asked to show their respect by keeping their distance from the rock formations. In contemporary times, the Wailua River Valley continues to be legendary in terms of its unparalleled beauty. Wailua is the name for “two waters,” in reference to the joining of the north fork with the main body of the river. The source of the water is Mount Waiÿaleÿale, the volcano that formed the island and one of the rainiest places on earth. As a watershed with water so plentiful, the valley is perfectly situated for two spectacular waterfalls, the Uluwehi Falls (Flourishing Plants), also known as “Secret Falls” to locals, and Opaekaÿa Falls (Rolling Shrimp). To get to Secret Falls, visitors take a kayak trip down the river and then must hike to the falls with the trail often as muddy as one might expect given its rainy situation. myhawaiitraveler.com

The float down the river is mostly adorned by the enormous flowers of the hau bush (Hibiscus tiliaceus), one of the plants that arrived by canoe with early Polynesian explorers. Since, as an invasive, the sea hibiscus has taken over the banks of the river, and so has its large flowers, reflecting clearly in the water as if in a mirror, and described by Bates two centuries ago in his travelogue as they “extend their picturesque branches and kiss the bosom of the gentle waters.” According to Dr. Hoÿomanawanui, the Hawaiians even had a name for the wind, Mälua, “that bears away the hau blossoms of Wailuanuiahoÿäno,” utlilizing the ancient name for the lower Wailua River Valley. Residents who live on the rim of the Wailua River are exposed to its beauty from another perspective, describing the mists that rise from the valley and constantly wrap around Mount Waiÿaleÿale. Whether myth, history, mysticism, beauty or all of the above draws you to Wailua River, you will become immersed in the experience. Water as a life force is strongly felt in that surrounding. According to one of the guides, once you enter the river, the pull is so great that you will feel compelled to make the journey. 73

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76 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 80 THE HOT SPOT 82 CULINARY Q&A 84 MADE IN AMERICA 86 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 89 CULINARY FUSION 92 FARM TO KEIKI

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GRAND T I D E P O O L S AT G R A N D H YAT T K A U A I —

Ahh, the romance of a tiki-torch lit dinner in thatched roof bungalows floating above a koi-filled lagoon. Here you’ll find stellar service and contemporary Hawaiian cuisine featuring the freshest of fish and succulent steaks crafted with a distinct island flair. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456, visit tidepoolskauai.com or book online at opentable.com.

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KAUA‘I DINING SOUTH SHORE DONDERO’S Dondero’s will satisfy your soul as well as your appetite. The elegant ambiance and stellar service makes this a dining favorite for those with discriminating taste. The menu is designed as an Italian tasting menu, offering complimentary flavors and contrasting textures with a large selection of appetizers, homemade pastas, fresh fish, chicken, lamb and beef specialties. This light, modern Italian cuisine is carefully paired with wines from all over the world. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. EATING HOUSE 1849 BY ROY YAMAGUCHI The Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawai‘i’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawai‘i. Called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and shermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with

the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine. Located at the Shops at Kukui‘ula. Call (808) 742-5000 for reservations. STEVENSON'S SUSHI & SPIRITS The warm woods and intimate seating areas of this classic lounge create a welcoming atmosphere. Take a seat at the 27-foot, hand crafted koa wood bar or sink into a cozy chair or sofa in the booked lined room. Chef Jay creates delectable sushi creations nightly in this unique Kaua‘i bar boasting an extensive selection of Whiskies, Cognac and Port in addition to creative martinis and delectable tropical drinks. Enjoy a game of pool, backgammon or chess. Scrumptious sushi rolls are sure to please. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA The Shops at Kukui‘ula has become known as the premier dining destination on Kaua‘i for its selection of casual and fine dining experiences in a beautiful plantation style setting. Merriman’s Fish House and Eating House 1849 feature renowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine Chefs Peter Merriman and Roy

Yamaguchi while Tortilla Republic and Dolphin Sushi bring contemporary flair to Mexican and seafood cuisine. Casual options include Bubba Burgers, Living Foods Market & Café, Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers, and TR Taqueria & Margarita Bar as well as local favorites Uncle’s Shave Ice and Lappert’s Hawai‘i. Check out the weekly Kaua‘i Culinary Market, Wednesdays, 3:30 to 6pm, with a cooking demo at 5pm. Visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. TIDEPOOLS For the ultimate in ambiance, Tidepools is the place. With a backdrop of waterfalls, these thatched roof hale seemingly float above koi filled lagoons providing a distinctive open-air setting in which to savor contemporary Hawaiian style cuisine. Diners rave about the fresh island fish and steak options including macadamia nut crusted mahimahi, grilled opah, organic steak, or Hawaiian salt and garlic rubbed prime rib. Salads feature fresh island-greens and the desserts are luscious. Don’t miss this delightful experience. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. LĪHU‘E KUKUI’S Features a Pacific Rim gourmet buffet in an outdoor setting, plus American and local specialties. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Located poolside at the Marriott Kaua‘i Beach Resort. Located at 3610 Rice Street. Call (808) 245-5050. WAILUA - EAST SIDE KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT Authentic Korean food with great Korean BBQ like galbi, chicken and pork served with soup, kimchee, vegetables and rice. Delicious Korean plates like shrimp tempura, Korean chicken, Mahi or meat jun (marinated mahi or ribeye dipped in egg and fried), bi bim bap (rice bowl with veggies and your choice of meat) and favorites like katsu, fried rice, noodles and dumplings all reasonably priced. Open Mon.-Sun. 11am-9pm. Kinipopo Shopping Village in Wailua. 4-356 Kuhio Hwy Building #E. (808) 823-6744. NAUPAKA TERRACE Inspired by the natural beauty of the Garden Island, Kauai Beach Resort creates unforgettable dining experiences that delight your senses. Indulge in delicious island specialties, fresh seafood, refreshing tropical drinks and live music as you gaze at the coastline and sparkling ocean. Dine on island cuisine at Naupaka Terrace, one of the top restaurants on Kaua‘i, enjoy a poolside snack at Driftwood Bar & Grille, and enjoy refreshing drinks and island music nightly at Shutters Lounge. Located at the Kauai Beach Resort. Call (808) 245-1955.

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GRAND S T E V E N S O N ’ S L I B R A R Y AT G R A N D H YAT T K A U A I — Poipu’s luxury nightspot offers sweeping views, scrumptious sushi, inventive cocktails, tropical drinks, aged whiskies, cognacs and ports. Sushi rolled nightly 6:00-10:00pm. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com.

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Street Burger

OYSTER 369 Oyster 369 is an intimate upscale eatery focusing on fresh seafood and shellfish - raw, chilled and brickoven roasted. Whether enjoying a rotating selection of oysters on the half shell, Iced Shellfish Platters featuring locally grown Maine lobsters, Dungeness Crab, Peel-n-Eat Shrimp, Oysters & Clams, or sizzling hot Mussels from the wood-fired brick-oven, you are certain to enjoy the freshness and inspired cuisine. An exciting wine list as well as 26 taps of craft beers, compliment the seafood delicacies. Nestled just next door to the burger joint Street Burger, Oyster 369 is 78

open evenings from 5pm, Tuesday through Saturday, and is sure to delight your tastebuds. Located at 4-369 Kuhio Hwy, Kapa‘a. Call (808) 212-1555 for more information or oyster369.com. NORTH SHORE NALU KAI GRILL AND BAR Enjoy light Hawaiian influenced cuisine and sophisticated tropical libations in the shade of our gazebo or in the privacy of our dining cabanas. Should your preference be relaxing poolside soaking up the Hawaiian sunshine we feature a special poolside menu. Indulge the refinement of our unique offerings at the bar while enjoying breathtaking views overlooking Hanalei bay. Located at the Princeville Resort. KAUAI GRILL A comfortable yet elegant hideaway—signature Jean-Georges sophistication realized far from home. Sweeping views of Hanalei bay and Bali Hai surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences from Michelin awarded Jean-George Vongerichten. Kauai Grill combines a curated selection of JeanGeorges’ greatest appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments from his portfolio of domestic and international restaurants around the world with

the highest quality of meats and freshest local fish available. Simply grilled preparations accompanied by bold condiments anchor the Kauai Grill experience at the Princeville Resort. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm10pm. For reservations call (808) 826-9644. MAKANA TERRACE Overlooking magical Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain is the main dining room at the Princeville Resort, Makana Terrace, the perfect venue for sophisticated casual all day dining. The menus showcase the freshest Hawaiian grown produce flawlessly represented in the dishes prepared by the Executive Chef and his culinary team. On Wednesdays, The Mailani dinner experience captures the essence of Halele’a, through chant, hula and storytelling. Journey with us overlooking Hanalei Bay as we reveal the mystery of this special place. Mailani, is an elegant Hawaiian dining experience that honors the culture and traditions of Kaua’i. Dinner ThursdayMonday, Wednesdays for Mailani, Dinner Show. Located at the Princeville Resort. Call (808) 826-2746 for reservations.

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PHOTO COURTESY: JASON PHILLIPS PHOTOGRAPHY

STREET BURGER Street Burger is Wailua’s hippest urban-chic eatery, offering handcrafted, locally-sourced burgers, hand-cut fries, and the east side’s largest selection of local and craft beers on tap, accompanied by a fun, exciting wine list. Come dine at this upscale burger-joint—pull up a stool at the chef’s counter or relax on the patio with sweeping views of Sleeping Giant. Open for lunch and dinner, Street Burger will excite your taste buds, and satisfy your craving for an American classic. Enjoy with friends, family or just a quick bite on your way home. Located at 4-369 Kuhio Hwy, Kapa‘a. Call (808) 2121555 for more information or streetburgerkauai.com.

YOUR TA S T E B U D S DESERVE A V A C AT I O N .

Enjoy local and responsibly sourced ingredients at all six restaurants, as well as farm to table menus, legendary steak and seafood dishes, light and healthy options, and of course, delectable desserts.

Kauai Marriott Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining selections range from casual oceanside cocktails and snacks to true ďŹ ne dining.

THE

HOT SPOT

HUALANI'S RESTAURANT AT HŌKŪALA KAUA‘I

Ingenuity meets island sensibilities at Hualani’s Restaurant, the newest addition to Höküala Kauaÿi, a Timber’s Resort. Here, chefs source the finest ingredients that the island has to offer from land and sea and elevate the philosophy of “farm-to-table” from just one aspect of a restaurant’s theme into the central pillar around which Hualani’s was created. Chef Luis Pous further elaborated on this farm-to-table movement by developing his relationship with Kauaÿi farmer, Cody Meyer, who he met during his travels around the world. What began as an organic conversation between the two has evolved into an on-property organic farm that supplies Hualani’s with much of its seasonal fruits and produce freshly picked. “We hope guests feel the soul of the island in the food that we put 80

WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

out,” says Chef Pous. “We don’t manipulate anything and allow the ingredients to shine. Somehow, everything tastes different on the island, not because of what we do to it, but because of where we get it.” Guests should begin their meal with the crowd favorite Palm Hearts and Mango Salad where a bed of organic local field greens is topped with plump tomatoes, mild yet sweet palm hearts, and sliced cucumbers before being finished with their housemade mango ginger vinaigrette that incorporates the tropical sweetness of mango flesh with a prickle of heat from just ground ginger root. One of Chef Pous’s favorite entrées is the Pork Laulau. He enjoyed this local dish at so many markets on the island that he knew he wanted to share this dish with his guests. In the traditional Hawaiian KAUA‘I TRAVELER

version of laulau, large chunks of pork are wrapped in raw taro leaves and baked in an underground oven called an imu for hours until tender. At Hualani’s, chefs slow-cook pork in the oven until fork-tender and serve it alongside a savory taro leaf purée and tie the dish together with a roasted pineapple glaze for a beautiful, elevated interpretation of the local staple. Freshly caught fish is another large aspect of Hualani’s menu and the chefs work with local fisherman to provide daily catch to incorporate the best offerings from the sea into their creations. One signature dish is their Seared ÿAhi Tuna that begins with a thick filet of highly sought ÿahi (yellowfin tuna) that is cooked at a high temperature for a short time that results in a fish that is perfectly seared on the outside and tender on the inside. Okinawan sweet potatoes and pickled cabbage accompany the seared ÿahi as well as their citrusbased ponzu sauce for a satiating entrée. Another standout is the flavorful Local Shrimp Katsu Stir Fry with Kauaÿi shrimp, pineapple and vegetable from the Farm at Höküala and rice. The mixologists at Hualani’s also draw inspiration from the tropical beauty and fresh ingredients of Kauaÿi when creating their custom cocktails that are the perfect pairing for the bold flavors found on the menu. Guests can enjoy an uplifting cocktail plush with flavors of the islands in the Happy Madison that begins with Kula Toasted Coconut Rum that is blended with Captain Morgan Spiced Rum along with orange juice, cranberry juice, and pineapple juice before being finished with their 151 soaked toasted coconut that adds a surprising texture to this cocktail. For those wanting to sip on something light and refreshing, Oceans 11 is a must-try not only for the flavors in this cocktail, but also for an opportunity to taste Ocean Organic Vodka that is distilled from organic cane sugar and deep ocean water on the island of Maui. To this, sweet grapes, fragrant basil leaves, and effervescent ginger beer is added creating a refreshing and palate-cleansing drink to enjoy with nearly every dish on the menu. An exceptional treat for guests at Hualani’s is the exceptional Farm-to-Table Chef’s Tasting Dinner that is offered every Thursday night when the chefs can turn up their creativity and get truly imaginative with the changing ingredients from Farmer Cody and his organic garden. “This is a chef’s dream and it is an amazing collaboration between the team,” says Chef Pous, who adds, “with the diverse cultures and natural heritage here, it is so easy to be inspired and we hope we bring some of that inspiration to you.” Whether joining them for lunch, dinner, or pau hana cocktails, the chefs, mixologists, and staff of Hualani’s await to entertain your senses with their innovative menu that aims to be an expression of the flavors of the island. Hualani’s Restaurant is open daily from 11am to 3pm, and 4pm to 9:30pm. It is located at Höküala Kaua‘i, a Timber’s Resort at 3370 Alaÿoli Way in Lïhuÿe. Call (808) 320-7399 or visit hokualakauai.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

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CULINARY Q&A EXECUTIVE CHEF ERIC BARSNESS WORDS COCO ZICKOS

here’s a new chef steering the culinary ship at the Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa’s fine dining establishment, Tidepools. Chef de Cuisine Eric Barsness is at the kitchen’s helm and plans to revitalize the already exquisite menu with seasonal dishes that take advantage of the year-round bountiful produce the island provides. Crafting new recipes is something Chef Barsness aspired to do since he was a child growing up in Los Alamos, N.M. His professional prowess includes obtaining an associate degree at the California Culinary Academy. He gained more experience while working at various establishments on the mainland, including the Thomas & Mack Center in Las Vegas. But it was after moving to Kaua‘i (for love) that he picked up local culinary chops. Chef Barsness learned the tricks of the trade at Roy’s and Red 82

Salt in Poÿipü, as well as Mark’s Place, a celebrated eatery among kamaÿäina. In fact, the first dish he was ever truly proud of, a cioppino with a fiery tomato coconut broth, was concocted at Roy’s and became one of the restaurant’s most acclaimed dishes. Now, one of his favorite meals to create at the legendary Tidepools restaurant is a melt-in-your-mouth butter poached lobster with Kauaÿi shrimp, pickled green papaya, somen noodles and shiitake glaze fitting to enjoy in such an exquisite setting. Whether he’s diving into new luxurious and enticing flavors at Tidepools or kicking back with his family grilling in the backyard, what makes being a chef so exciting for Barsness is the opportunity to keep learning and mastering the art of creating contemporary tropical dishes. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

How did you know you wanted to become a chef? I knew when I was around 8 years old. I would go pick raspberries with my grandma in her raspberry patch and we would make jam. I thought that was so cool! What’s the most rewarding aspect of your job? Getting to play and create good food with my team that we can all be proud of. How do you come up with new ideas for the menu? What is your inspiration? I constantly have ideas running through my head, it never stops. I love trying new things that I have never tried before, using new ingredients. How would you describe the style and taste of food that you serve at Tidepools? We are a seafood and steak restaurant crafting contemporary Hawaiian dishes by melding the flavors and influences of the island into each dish. There are so many cultures that make up the local scene; it’s fun to play and fuse the flavors within those cultures. What is the most popular dish at Tidepools? The Hawaiian Catch. It’s a nice blend of fresh locally caught fish plus lobster, shrimp and scallop with a fusion of flavors and textures. What advice do you have for someone to have the most enjoyable experience at Tidepools? Come hungry and be open to new flavors. If someone wants to order something uniquely Hawaiian-style, what would you recommend? Poke or Hawaiian Catch. The ÿAhi-Hamachi Poke Duo has kukui nut, ogo, avocado, cucumber and sweet Maui onion. Can you reserve specific tables and, if so, where do you recommend? Yes, you can. We do large parties in the waterfall room. Or, groups up to 6 at the famous Table 42 is a favorite—it’s a thatched hut that sits out on its own. How would you describe the scenery at Tidepools? Open-air, tiki-torch lit, great views of the Shipwreck cliff at sunset. Depending on location, you’ve got views of the waterfall, the beautiful grounds at the resort and, of course, the whole restaurant is set over a koi pond. Any pointers on how to make the most of an evening at Tidepools? Come early for sunset and see the change in ambiance go to a romantic tikitorch-lit night. Is Tidepools a place you’d recommend for special occasions? Yes, it’s such a unique, beautiful location with a relaxed open-air atmosphere, great service and delicious food. It’s a special treat any day of the year. myhawaiitraveler.com

MADE IN AMERICA WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Over the past 300 years, America’s love affair with wine has matured, moving wine from the fringes of society to the center of the table. This once European area of expertise has grown to become a multi-billion dollar industry that combines technological enhancements embraced by Americans blended with Old World sensibilities and techniques inherited from overseas. California leads the American wine industry producing nearly 90% of the nation’s wine with nearly 250 million cases annually. Yet, despite its current success, California’s wine roots have a far humbler beginning, which dates to the 1800s when Franciscan missions planted grapes to make sacramental wine. The Gold Rush brought an influx of immigrants to the state that brought their winemaking techniques with them, but wine production came to a screeching halt during the 1920s when Prohibition banned the manufacturing, sale, and transportation of alcoholic beverages. Despite Prohibition’s repeal in 1933, it took decades for the knowledge and skills lost to be regained and implemented, leading to Americans’ love of sweeter, cheaper “jug wines” in the interim. 84

And California wines were unable to garner international respect until the Judgement of Paris in 1976 when a 1973 Chateau Montelena, a California Chardonnay, and a 1973 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon beat eight French wines in a blind taste competition breaking the myth that great wines were only made in France. Today, there are over 4,000 wineries in the state and over 100 varietals in play, yet Cabernet Sauvignon has achieved the reputation as one of the dominant varietals of California. As with many New World wines, California Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be a robust, full-bodied, fruit-forward wine with a lush, sensuous quality stemming from the long, sunny days, which allow the grapes to achieve full maturation. An epitome of California Cabernet Sauvignon is the 2012 Selene “Dead Fred Vineyard” ($50 per bottle; winecountryconnection.net), which offers a palate dripping with blueberry syrup and black currants mingled with seductive notes of brown sugar. The heft of this wine calls for a dish bearing equal power such as a beef stir-fry that begins with succulent sirloin with KAUA‘I TRAVELER

deep flavors that will be complemented by the dark fruits of this wine. The blend of oyster sauce, minced garlic, and freshly cut scallions can overpower most wines, but hints of smoky coffee and earthy molasses in this bottling will maintain its strength despite the dish’s intense flavors creating a dynamic of concentrated balance. Moving north of California, Oregon boasts a much smaller holding of vineyard acreage yet still are in the Top 5 states in terms of wine production with over 700 wineries, which are mostly boutique or family-owned. Pinot Noir, the thin-skinned red grape from Burgundy, is a very delicate grape that grows exceptionally well in Oregon’s colder regions. The notoriously temperamental grape has prospered and become one of the most prominent varietals in the state. In Willamette Valley, an American Viticultural Area (AVA) running from the Columbia River to the city of Eugene, the wet winters and dry summers provide the perfect growing conditions for this grape known for its difficulty to cultivate. When young, Oregon Pinot Noir bears a flavor profile of cherries, raspberries, and strawberries; yet, with age, this wine develops further fruit complexity and earthiness. The 2017 Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot Noir ($21.99 per bottle; wine.com) offers the fruit-forward characteristics of many New World wines blended with Old World expression of terroir. Ruby red in color, this divine wine pairs wonderfully with a dish of tender short ribs marinated in a teriyaki sauce (Japanese cooking sauce blending soy sauce, sugar, and sweet cooking wine). The melt-in-your-mouth beef would be overpowered by a wine rich in tannins making this Pinot Noir the perfect match in body without being slack brought myhawaiitraveler.com

out by the vein of acidity innate in the grape. The sweetness of the teriyaki marinade plays with the sweet flavors of strawberry purée and the refreshing acidity in this wine, while the saltiness of the marinade is balanced by the bright youth in the flavors of this bottling. Traveling further north, Washington has proven to be another stronghold in the world of American wine whose long hours of sunlight and consistent temperatures allow the grapes to truly settle into their surroundings. The defining geographical feature of Washington State is the Cascade Mountain Range, which provides protection for the vineyards in the east from weather fronts and precipitation from the west. While almost 70 varietals are grown in Washington, a standout over the past years has been wine created from the delicate, yet commanding, Riesling grape. Famous throughout the world, Riesling’s crisp profile of white fruits and flowers yields a wine truly expressive of the place it is grown in. The 2017 Columbia Valley Dry Riesling ($10 per bottle; stemichelle.com) is a tremendous steal created by the oldest winery in the state, Chateau Ste. Michelle. Lime rind, white peaches, and crisp green apple radiate from this wine, which begs to be paired with a dish like scallops sautéed in herbed brown butter. The minerality of the wine parallels the sea-like minerality of the scallops while the bright acidity and fresh fruit flavors cuts the brown butter to keep the palate from fatiguing. From robust bottles of Cabernets from California to the tantalizing glasses of Riesling from Washington State, the wines of the West Coast have proven year after year to be as nuanced and as powerful as their European counterparts and definite forces to be reckoned with. 85

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW

BROKE DA MOUTH

rom humble food truck beginnings to a “bona fide” restaurant, NOM Kauai has hit its stride. The move in 2018 to the larger space was financed by Chef Thomas’ $10,000 winnings from the Food Network’s show, Cooks vs. Cons. Thomas and Alicia Fuquay, the married owners of NOM Kauai, have mastered the casual brunch until late lunch offering. Recipes from Thomas’s Florida grandmother reinvented by him and the couple’s experience on an island brimming over with fresh produce explains the singular success of this buzzy food-fuelling spot. Chef Thomas displays all the cooking techniques of soul food cooking from pickling, blackening and frying to slow cooking and baking. The buttermilk biscuits are “to die for,” as we say in the South. Alicia explains how temperamental biscuits can be, sensitive to changes in “temperature, humidity and coldness of the butter.” She says, “we roll out the biscuits completely by hand” and strive for the same quality and taste each time. The milk is acidified in-house to turn it into creamy buttermilk. The item the couple is most proud of is the Southern Chick. It is a take on traditional biscuits and sausage gravy, but in the form of a breakfast

sandwich complete with buttermilk fried chicken, cheddar cheese, and a sunny side egg topper. Put that chicken in between halves of a Belgian waffle made in-house and sweetened up with scratch-made pineapple butter and maple syrup, and you get the sandwich that launched the original food truck. For a southern twist on a Hawaiÿi favorite, The Nom Loco Moco is made from shortribs braised in shoyu (soy sauce) for six hours. In place of rice, fried coconut grits form the base while the dish is topped with an egg and additionally flavored with the braising liquid. The restaurant’s interior evokes the feeling of a fun bistro, where the menu is chalked in on blackboards that nearly cover the walls. Red walls serve as a reminder of the little red food truck where the couple’s culinary adventure began. NOM Kauai is located in the same shopping strip as Big Save Grocery Store at 4-1101 Kühiö Highway in Kapaÿa. Open Wednesday through Monday, 7:30am to 2:30pm. Phone (808) 635-5903 or visit nomkauai.com. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MORNING BUZZ

devoted local following accompanies Anni Caporuscio wherever she goes. Small Town Coffee is in its fourth location, in a red school bus in the old Kojima’s parking lot and as loved as ever with regulars still hanging out for over 13 years and actually talking to each other and not on their phones. Anni is the award-winning barista you will find daily at the bus and also co-owner with Jeremy and Julie Hartshorn. Super fans will tell you Small Town serves up the best coffee they’ve ever had—so good that customers often go for regular brewed coffee. Anni says that after “people wake up a bit, we sell a ton of lattes with non-traditional milks like fresh coconut milk or fresh macadamia milk.” The coffee beans are meticulously and thoughtfully roasted by Imua Coffee Roasters in Wailua. The bus barista describes the aim to achieve a “medium to light” effect and, ultimately, “a good representation of the layers of flavor” with no “hint of burned or rancid carbon.” A favorite request is the homemade chai. The recipe shall remain forever secret, but Anni bewitchingly admits to making the blend, which is more like a “yogi myhawaiitraveler.com

tea” with its reduced sugar content, in a “big cauldron,” taking “half a day to make five gallons at a time.” Over 10 years of research went into the process, especially tasting and smelling, as she notes “half of chai is the smell.” Everything is done wholeheartedly at Small Town, from the bakery goods with vegan and gluten-free offerings. It was also the first spot to start serving organic bagels made on island by Ya Quddus (also served by Monkeypod Jam) in regular and exotic flavors, even made from kiawe (mesquite) flour. Whatever the secret, people show up for Small Town at workdays, helping with recycling and donating plants to the barista who loves plants as much as coffee. Small Town Coffee Company is located in a red school bus in the old Kojima’s parking lot at 4-1543 Kühiö Highway in Kapaÿa, on the way to surf spot at Keälia Beach. Open everyday from 6am to 4pm.

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SLOW JAMS

ruit is known to be juicier and sweeter on the Garden Island, and more diverse than almost anywhere. Aletha Thomas, the owner of Monkeypod Jam, has utilized the exciting variety of island fruits in the 55 different kinds of preserves she has created. She and her team have been busy prepping seasonal fruits in their jam kitchen in Läwai for the next confiture reveal. The team has their hands full processing mounds of Meyer lemons, Tahitian limes, pink grapefruit and several varieties of oranges, for instance, cara cara known for the depth of its sweetness and red interior and calamansi, also related to the kumquat. It is destiny that Monkeypod Jam produces such exotic artisanal combinations as Cara Cara Orange Ginger Marmalade and Lemon Sage Marmalade, along with curds (similar to jam with addition of eggs and butter), sauces, salsas and chutneys. The owner’s favorite is her Spiced Tomato Jam, a mélange of slow-cooked island tomatoes, ginger and chilis, as savory on a scone as it is on a grilled cheese. That’s the end result of 5,000 pounds of tomatoes purchased from a local farm. Before a use was found for the farm’s “off-grade” (aka unshapely) produce, the tomatoes were composted. Aletha is a strong supporter of island farmers and creating edibles from abundance. On your way to Kökeÿe or Polihale, pop into the café for a breakfast burrito with chipotle aioli or lunch’s most popular item, chicken curry sandwich. The menu features seasonal specialties, such as pickled ‘ulu (breadfruit), that Aletha describes as tasting like hearts of palm or artichokes. Enjoy a private sampling of preserves at the tasting bar and a gift shop stocked with an array of island products. What suits your fancy, White Pineapple Salsa or Lilikoÿi (passion fruit) Curd? Monkeypod Jam is located on the South Shore of Kauaÿi at 2-3687 Kaumualii Highway, nestled between the 7-Eleven and the post office. Open Monday thru Saturday, 7am to 4pm. Products are also available at farmers markets and stores across the island. To order ahead a fabulous picnic lunch, call (808) 378-4208. Check events for upcoming cooking classes at monkeypodjam.com.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

CULINARY FUSION TASTING FLAVORS FROM THE PAST WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

PHOTO COURTESY; (IAN MCGUIRE)

awaiÿi, the Aloha State, is one location in the world renowned for its blend of people, ethnicities, and cultures. Many credit this to the arrival of immigrant workers on sugar and pineapple plantations during the 19th and 20th centuries as the foundation for the society we have come to know in the islands. Days began early on plantations and workers’ only relief came at their lunchtime break. During this shared time of respite, workers from different countries shared dishes from their homelands, which helped to create the cuisine enjoyed in the islands today. The first immigrants brought to work on the plantations came from China and brought with them the tradition of wrapping tender bits of char siu (roasted barbeque pork) in dough followed by steam cooking. These portable snacks became wildly popular in the islands and were known in Hawaiian as mea ÿono puaÿa, which translates to “delicious pork thing.” The name has since evolved and these tender delicacies are known today as manapua that can be found across the state in Chinese bakeries and other local eateries.

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WAILUA SHAVE ICE

MANAPUA

MALASADAS AT EATING HOUSE 1849

SPAM MUSUBI

KIMCHI MAKING

KIMCHI FRIED RICE AT KIAWE ROOTS 90

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At Hanalima Bakery, they are continuing the tradition of steaming manapua daily for those looking for a warm snack on the go. Their savory filling begins with succulent pieces of roasted pork that are mixed with a proprietary blend of sauces creating their signature flavor. Diced green onions and minced water chestnuts finish the mixture to add a bit of crunch and then the yeasty dough is filled with a heaping spoonful of this tasty filling before it is sealed and steamed. Hanalima Bakery; 4495 Puhi Road Lïhuÿe, HI 96766; hanalimabaking.com; (808) 246-8816. Open Monday to Friday from 6am to 1pm. The next group of immigrants came from the country of Japan and created two food items that have become synonymous with snacks in Hawaiÿi. The first dish Japanese immigrants brought were kakigöri where fine, snow-like shavings of ice are topped with flavored syrups. Although it originated in China around the 7th century, kakigöri spread in Japan around the 11th century when aristocrats would enjoy ice shavings topped with sugar or molasses syrup. In Hawaiÿi, locals continued the tradition of shaving ice and adding sweet toppings so shave ice can be enjoyed by all year-round. Wailua Shave Ice, located in Kapaÿa, offers Hawaiian-style shave ice topped with a variety of local fruits and syrups that feature no artificial flavors, dyes, or high-fructose corn syrup. While their menu changes weekly to accommodate seasonal fruits, they do have many crowd favorites including Lilikoÿi Cream that features fresh passion fruit and vanilla bean infused milk atop a bed of snow-soft shave ice as well as their Lava Flow that features pineapple juice atop shave ice that is finished with coconut foam and freshly made strawberry and pineapple purées. Wailua Shave Ice; 4-1306 Kühiö Hwy., Kapaÿa, HI 96746; wailuashaveice.com; (808) 634-7183. Open Monday to Saturday from 11am to 8:30pm, and Sundays from 12:30pm to 8:30pm. Along with the ever-popular shave ice, Japanese immigrants are also heralded for creating one of Hawaiÿi’s most beloved snacks, the Spam musubi. As World War II brought a flood of American soldiers to the islands, so too came the Army’s favorite processed meat, Spam. In this time of war and reduced access to food, Spam provided relief to local families looking for food sources. Japanese immigrants compressed bricks of steamed rice and topped this with slices of Spam. Once wrapped with a sheet of nori (dried seaweed), the dish resembled Japanese sushi with a local flair. Pono Market, opened in the late 1960s, has become a staple in the community with lines wrapping around the store during the morning and lunch rush as people pour in to purchase handmade Spam musubi. This tiny, family-owned shop sells hundreds of Spam musubi daily in flavors ranging from traditional Spam musubi wrapped in crunchy nori to a Teriyaki Spam musubi where the generous portions of Spam are coated with a sweet, salty, and tangy blend of shoyu (soy sauce) and sugar. Pono Market; 4-1300 Kühiö Hwy., Kapaÿa, HI 96746; (808) 822-4581. Open Monday to Saturday from 6am to 4pm and closed on Sundays. Shortly after the first Japanese began immigrating to Hawaiÿi, the Portuguese followed and brought with them a confection that is so adored in the islands that it has its own day. Malasadas, which roughly translates to “undercooked” in Portuguese, are made by frying bits of yeast dough followed by an immediate roll in granulated sugar. In Portugal, malasadas are typically enjoyed during the festival day of Terça-feira Gorda (Fat myhawaiitraveler.com

Tuesday). On this day, the remaining lard and sugar from households are used to make these delicious balls of dough before Lent begins. In Hawaiÿi, this day is known statewide as Malasada Day when people of all ages indulge in this sweet treat. Celebrity Chef Roy Yamaguchi has taken this traditional Portuguese treat and put his modern twist on it at Eating House 1849 where he works with local ranchers, farmers, and fishermen to deliver tastes of Hawaiÿi’s past fused with techniques of today. His rendition of malasadas begins with dough that is deep fried until golden brown and immediately dusted with a blend of granulated sugar and cinnamon from Hönaunau on the Big Island His fragrant malasadas are served alongside his signature rum dipping sauce that elevates this simple dessert into a mouthwatering vision. Eating House 1849 is located at The Shops of Kukuiÿula in Poÿipü; www. eatinghouse1849.com; (808) 742-5000. Open nightly from 5pm to 9:30pm. During the later years of immigration to the state, Koreans moved to the islands and brought their science of fermenting vegetables to create delicious and healthy side dishes. One staple in Korean cuisine is their banchan (side dish) known as kimchi, which is made from salted and fermented vegetables blended with chili powder, scallions, garlic, ginger, and salted seafood. This pungent dish is known to be full of vitamins, minerals, and gut healthy bacteria. Kimchi plays a star role in Kiawe Roots’ Kimchi Fried Rice where they blend tastes of Korea with cooking techniques from across Asia in their dish that epitomizes local comfort food. Beginning with a bed of steamed rice, chefs at Kiawe Roots precisely align a smorgasbord of toppings that include potatoes simmered in shoyu and sugar, crisped bacon, and generous amounts of kimchi. Diners are encouraged to mix all the toppings together and create different flavor combinations with each bite as the tart, acidic, and savory flavors of kimchi tie the entire dish together. Kiawe Roots is located at The Shops of Kukuiÿula in Poÿipü; www.eatatkiawe. com; (808) 631-3622. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 9pm, and Mondays from 5pm to 9pm. One of the last groups to immigrate to Hawaiÿi to work on plantations was from the Philippines. Beginning in 1906, thousands of Filipinos moved to Hawaiÿi and many have stayed in the islands for generations to come. Along with their colorful heritage, Filipinos also brought one of their most treasured desserts to the islands as well. Halo halo begins with crushed ice being put into a tall glass and topped with evaporated milk, custards, sweetened fruits and even corn and beans. TJ Variety Store might seem like an unexpected place to grab dessert, but year after year it has been voted as the best place on Kauaÿi to enjoy halo halo. Toppings like sliced coconut in cream sauce, ube (purple yam) ice cream, and fruits suspended in gelatin are some of the sweet options to top the crushed ice with. Each gigantic serving is made to order and guaranteed to cool you down on a hot day. TJ Variety Store; 3-3257 Kühiö Hwy. #101 Lïhuÿe, HI 96766; (808) 2457711. Open daily from 8:30am to 8:30pm. From sweet to savory and all the flavors in between, Hawaiÿi’s blend of people contribute to the many flavors of the islands. Now that you are well informed of the creative food that makes Hawaiÿi such a tasty destination, go out and experience the delicious offerings the locals have come to appreciate. 91

FARM TO KEIKI ROOTED IN LEARNING WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

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he future resides in the hands of the keiki (children). And because those children of today will be the leaders of tomorrow, it’s imperative that we teach them the values and skills that will lead to long, healthy, successful lives. That’s why besides writing for Kauaÿi Traveler, I also teach college level early childhood education classes at some of the local colleges and universities here in Hawai‘i. That’s how I met Tiana Kamen, the author of a new curriculum called Farm to Keiki: Cooking, Gardening and Nutrition with Children. As a nutritionist with a Master of Science degree in Nutrition, and passionate advocate of land-based education, Tiana has used her knowledge and partnerships in the community to encourage more farm-to-school education. Farm to Keiki’s curriculum focuses on the produce of our islands, and aims to teach teachers, children, and families how to grow and use the ingredients grown right here in our own island backyard. Having searched for Hawaiÿi-specific content regarding this topic geared towards young children myself, I was excited to hear about Tiana’s project. Other countries, including Polynesian neighbors such as Aotearoa, or New Zealand, have started similar projects, and farm-to-school opportunities exist around Hawaiÿi, but few are geared specifically for the very youngest of children, when lifelong healthy habits are established. Besides the focus on children, Tiana also hopes to promote healthy habits with teachers and families—those on the front lines that will guide children towards cementing the skills necessary to have a healthy life. With her new book, teachers are provided curriculum ideas, as well as lots of yummy recipes using local ingredients, such as kalo (taro), ÿulu (breadfruit), and many others, complete with beautiful pictures and diagrams. As someone who grew up with healthy habits (“my mom was into health before it was cool”), Tiana spent her life cooking and making her own food, including sprucing up standard dorm cuisine. After college, she began working with the farm-to-school movement in Hawaiÿi and nationwide. She started the Kauaÿi School Garden Hui, was a founder of the Hawaiÿi School Garden Hui, and National Farm to Preschool Subcommittee. All of these groups shared a similar mission, to grow gardens, provide locally grown foods in schools, and to promote nature-based education. They also aimed to support local farmers, grow future farmers, and make education fun and relevant to all. She worked as an education specialist at the Limahuli Garden & Preserve, part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden, taking children from across the islands on field trips. “I always tried to use the food that was growing in the garden, and serve that to the kids,” she says, explaining that if they harvested kalo, she would have something ready in advance for the kids to eat using that ingredient. When they harvested sugar cane, she would have the children help press it into real sugar cane juice. The children loved seeing the products often grown in their yards or neighborhoods converted into easily accessible healthy, delicious food. This was when her desire to learn more about nutrition and its healing properties inspired her to go back to school for her master’s degree.

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After attending a children’s garden conference in California in 2010, she met a woman on a bus who was running a project called Farm to Preschool. This conversation launched Farm to Keiki that same year, after the educator from Occidental College mentioned that part of their grant was to help pilot other similar projects across the country. And since preschool has a lot fewer procurement regulations than the K-12 education system, and also because early healthy habits are easier to establish than reprogram later in life, the focus on the youngest children was put into action. She has received funding through a variety of funders over the years, and most recently through the Department of Health, which has helped make the curriculum free online. They also provide funding for her to visit each island and host one free workshop for educators. I recently encouraged my own students to attend, and they came back incredibly excited and enthused to use this new learning in their own classrooms. One of the challenges, though, has been the high demand for the curriculum and the workshops. As a one-woman team (surrounded by lots of caring mentors and supporters), it’s somewhat of a struggle to lead 30-participants-to-1-instructor workshops and provide everyone with the hands-on learning necessary to make this type of curriculum a success. Another challenge is funding even more workshops to be able to meet the demand that’s out there. “You can’t really learn Farm to Keiki in one workshop, it takes many hours of practice and self-discovery to grow things and cook them,” she says. However, this is where the importance of partnering with the local colleges can help, as the teachers learn this knowledge from the get-go, making the transition easier once they are established teachers in the field. Even though there are many challenges, the process has also been rewarding. And it’s not even just that the kids are gaining healthy lifelong habits, but that the greatest changes often come from the adults. “It trickles into their own lives. One teacher wanted to do Farm to Keiki as a school project, and she started to do it with the kids, but then she did it with her family too. She went to the farmers market for the first time, and now Sunday is local food night at her house. It’s changed her health, her whole life.” Besides learning healthy eating habits, gardens also have the ability to teach other skills, such as social/emotional skills, connection to the ÿäina (land), and the ability to 94

promote peace. Gardens are great for all students of all learning abilities—especially kids with special needs or behavioral challenges. “Everyone can be successful in the garden. Even if your home life is challenging, the garden is always there for you.” Beyond that, this type of curriculum makes learning tangible and meaningful—why learn to count on a worksheet if you can learn to count the peapods that you can later eat? Teachers aren’t the only one really excited about her curriculum, but so are visitors and non-educators alike. Tiana sells the book at local farmers markets, and she tells me that all sorts of people buy her book. “Lots of tourists are really interested in learning more about Hawaiÿi. There aren’t a lot of Hawaiÿi-specific resources out there. They can learn about the plants, there’s lots of pretty pictures, and they can bring these lessons home with them— especially if they have kids or grandkids—it’s something they might be interested in including in their lives.” She even shared about an educator from Alaska who wanted to use the book to teach about Hawaiÿi in a culturally relevant way. All readers come away with recipes such as kalo hummus, ÿulu mashed potatoes, smoothies, purple sweet potato haupia pie, plus tips on how to utilize other locally grown ingredients, such as nïoi (Hawaiian chili peppers), niu (coconut), maiÿa (bananas) and many, many more. For those who are interested in looking to support Farm to Keiki, Tiana suggests donating books to local schools (or even schools on the mainland), contributing time and skills to schools to help implement these lessons, following Farm to Keiki’s Instagram and/or Facebook page, or signing up for the mailing list to be a part of their expanding community and share their own ideas and resources. Donations are also accepted to help fund future workshops across the islands. “I would want to leave with the parting words of having everyone take a moment to think about where their food comes from, what types of food they are putting in their, and children’s, bodies; and if they can make a greater effort to support local farmers, grow a garden, and encourage healthy eating in children’s lives. This is important, and we just want the world to think about it.” To learn more about Farm to Keiki and to receive a free online version of the book and sign up for their mailing list, visit www.farmtokeiki.org. Find them on Instagram @ farm2keiki, Facebook, or email tiana@farmtokeiki.org. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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DESTINATIONS

THE NORTH SHORE The North Shore is tranquil and draped in velvety green, with waterfalls cascading from heaven into a verdant valley and the sounds of gentle surf. At the top of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale sits Alaka‘i Swamp. From this wetland, streams of water flow to the beaches below. Along its journey, the water engraves deep, lush valleys, creating a fertile landscape for the cultivation of various crops on Kaua‘i’s North Shore. The Hawaiians divided this area into three land divisions: Ko‘olau, Halele‘a, and Nāpali. 96

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

KO‘OLAU The rural communities of Moloa‘a and Kïlauea lay in the ahupua’a of Ko‘olau. Due to its isolation, the beach community of Moloa‘a is often overlooked by visitors. Just ten minutes north of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a Bay is a great place for swimming, snorkeling or reading a book. Unlike the rocky beaches of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a offers golden sand and turquoise water. Kïlauea is a former sugar plantation town. The most frequented visitor attraction here is the Kïlauea Lighthouse. The lighthouse is located on a 203-acre national wildlife refuge. Many migratory birds, such as the Pacific Golden Plover, the Laysan Albatross, and the Nënë propagate here. Sometimes you may even see humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals and spinner dolphins. HALELE‘A Six small beach towns make up the district of Halele‘a. Kalihi Wai is the first and is primarily known for its surf break. Kalihi Wai means “with a stream,” which is fitting, being that it’s next to one. Spend an afternoon kayaking up Kalihi Wai stream. ‘Anini Beach is just across the river. A bridge once connected the two towns until a tidal wave washed it away in 1957. Vacation homes line the beach here and the ocean stays relatively calm due to a wide fringing reef surrounding it. Windsurfing is very popular here. Up the road is Princeville, the Bel-Air of Kaua‘i. This lavish town sits on a plateau that extends from the upper mountains to lower sea cliffs. A short hike down one of these cliffs will take you to Queen’s Bath, a large protected saltwater pond. Princeville offers many amenities that Hanalei doesn’t (like a

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gas station), so fill’er up and head on down to Hanalei. Hanalei is what Kaua‘i probably looked like in the 1800s. Make sure to stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout, where you’ll find acres of taro fields covering the valley floor. Be on the look out for Beefalo (half cow, half buffalo). Hanalei has become a popular destination for visitors and surfers, and offers some of the largest waves on the island. The water is temperamental, so take heed to any posted warnings. If you can’t swim in the ocean, the Hanalei River feeds into the bay and provides a short but sweet kayak adventure. The valley of Wainiha is believed to be the last hideout of the Menehune, a race of little people. Along this narrow valley lie the remains of old home sites, heiau and taro patches. When you’ve reached the end of the road, you’ve reached Hä‘ena. Explore the wet and dry caves of Waikanaloa, Waikapala‘e and Maniniholo (dry). View Ka Ulu a Paoa, a distinguished hula heiau and discover the underwater sea caves at Kë‘ë Beach. More than likely you’ll end up spending longer than a day here. NÄPALI For the truly adventurous, the district of Näpali is only accessible by foot. The majestic park and coastline consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, dramatic sea cliffs, lush verdant valleys and amazing views. If you plan on doing the 22-mile round trip hike to Kalalau Valley, be prepared. First and foremost, secure a camping permit. Second, pack your bags rationally and third, train! If 22 miles is a bit too adventurous, there are many enjoyable day hikes around the area. Remember, always check the weather conditions before going anywhere.

THE CHOSEN ONES FAVORITE LOCAL BEACHES WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

WORDS ANDREW WALSH

Swaying palm trees and gentle ocean mists are part of many visitors’ dreams when they imagine their Hawaiian getaway; but crowds, jampacked parking lots, and lots of commotion aren’t often part of this fantasy. As with many popular tropical destinations, following the lead of locals can be a smart choice when selecting a beach to spend one of your precious vacation days at, especially when the options seem endless. Here are our five go-to beaches chosen for desired attributes of vibe, beauty, location and overall experience.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Hidden far from the main road is a secret spot for many locals to enjoy when they want to relax. Anahola Beach, located on Kaua‘i’s East Side, is an expansive white sand beach that is separated into two general sections with the northern end of the bay featuring a shorebreak that creates ample waves for surfers and body boarders to enjoy while the southern end has earned a reputation for calmer waters because of an offshore reef that impedes the incoming waves. On this end of the bay, you’ll often find families spreading out their beach blankets while keiki (children) play in the fine, white sand. Along with the abundance of ocean to delight in, this beach also features ample shade from the enormous ironwood trees that line the beach, which provide numerous cool spots for beachgoers to rest when they’re not in the water. Whether swimming in the clear waters or leisurely walking along powder-soft sand, Anahola Beach offers nearly everything a beachgoer would want including lifeguards on duty as well as picnic tables, showers, and restrooms minus the crowds and bustle of busier beaches. To reach Anahola Beach, when driving on Highway 56, turn onto Anahola Road and follow this road until you reach the ocean at Anahola Beach Park.

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Anahola

Anahola Beach

Keālia Beach

Many visitors coast past Keälia Beach as they leave Kapaÿa Town on their way to the North Shore without stopping to check out what this local hotspot has to offer. This half-mile long beach, situated between two rocky points, offers year-round surfing where locals rush towards the water for a chance to surf some of the best waves on the island. While the water can be rough and conditions can be wild due to the lack of reef to offer protection from incoming swells, visitors can enjoy watching some of the most talented surfers on the island shred through waves at Keälia Beach. The northern end of Keälia Beach can provide calmer conditions for people wanting to swim or snorkel, but another draw to this beach is the views it offers. Mornings can bring brilliant red sunrises and between the months of December to February, you can find groups of people sitting on the beach watching humpback whales breach. Keälia Beach is located right off the main road along Highway 56 with a parking lot near mile-marker 10 and offers lifeguards, picnic tables, restrooms, showers, and a nice paved path for biking or walking.

KeAlia

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hanalei Hanalei Bay Beaches

Nestled between Hanalei River and Waipä River is a three-mile expanse of sparkling blue waters and golden sand that lures locals to its shores year-round. With magnificent mountains providing a backdrop for beachgoers, the Hanalei Bay beaches are almost a dream-like experience. While the Hanalei Bay beaches might seem like one long shoreline, locals know that different parts of the bay offer different ways to enjoy the water. You’ll often find experienced surfers catching waves in the middle of the bay, a portion affectionately nicknamed “Middles,” where waves coast in from the open ocean with ease. Surfers with less experience will often hug the surf spot near Hanalei Pier where the waves are more manageable, and you’ll also find teens jumping off this pier for a bit of a thrill. Keiki can find safe spots to splash in the water near Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park, locally known as “Pavilions,” where lifeguards are stationed and the waters become calmer while those wanting to snorkel or scuba dive, can find a sunken shipwreck that provides for an underwater adventure. And for those wanting a drink or püpü (appetizer) to replenish, a quick walk from Puÿu Poa Beach at the eastern end of Hanalei Bay will take them right to the Princeville Resort Kauai. To get to the beaches of Hanalei Bay, while driving on Highway 560, turn onto Aku Road and take a right or left onto Weke Road. Follow the road until you reach the various beaches. myhawaiitraveler.com

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po'ipu Po'ipū Beach

Located on the sunny South Shore, Poÿipü Beach is a spot that offers everything you would imagine a beach would making it a popular choice for locals and visitors alike. Named one of “America’s Best Beaches” by Travel Channel, Poÿipü Beach is actually one bay divided into two by a mound of land separating the two bays called a tombolo. This area, called Nukumoi Point, is a favorite spot where endangered Hawaiian monk seals, the state mammal of Hawaiÿi, can be seen sunbathing. Half of this beach is protected by a rock wall that provides safety from incoming waves and it is on this side of the beach that you will find young children splashing and wading in the waters. The other end of the beach is open to the incoming ocean and you will find more seasoned swimmers, surfing, stand-up paddling, and snorkeling on this end of the beach. Lifeguards are posted at Poÿipü Beach seven days a week. The beach park includes amenities such as showers, restrooms, picnic tables, and trees to offer shade. There are also many great restaurants nearby. To reach Poÿipü Beach, drive along Poÿipü Road and turn down Hoÿowili Road where you can find a parking area for this beach at the intersection of Hoÿowili Road and Hoÿone Road.

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Polihale Beach

For a chance to experience the unadulterated beauty of one of the most pristine beaches on Kauaÿi, locals trek out to Polihale Beach and enjoy one of the most secluded beach experiences the island has to offer. After driving to the end of Highway 50, a 5-mile drive along an old, unpaved cane haul road is another part of the journey it takes to reach this isolated beach. Once you arrive, the immaculate views of this sprawling golden beach and endless ocean will take your breath away. As the longest continuous stretch of beach in the state, it’s easy to find your own piece of paradise at Polihale away from other beachgoers. Far from civilization, the only sounds you will hear are waves crashing on the beach and birds flying overhead creating an experience to feel like you are one with nature. The majestic Näpali Cliffs flank one side of Polihale Beach that help create the vibe of stepping back in time and experiencing the island as it was hundreds of years ago. Little vegetation or natural shading is available at this beach so locals often bring umbrellas or tents to create some shade from the hot sun. The main part of the beach has very strong currents that makes swimming at this beach dangerous, but locals will often spend a day laying out or taking walks along the white sand beach and hunt for shells. Queen’s Pond, a portion of Polihale Beach enclosed by a protective coral reef, does offer some waters for swimmers to enjoy. And, on clear days, it’s possible to see Niÿihau, the Forbidden Island. Along with the relaxing setting like no other, Polihale Beach draws nature lovers to the remote spot to enjoy one of its dazzling sunsets or a magical night of stargazing.

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SAND + SURF NORTH SHORE ‘ANINI BEACH PARK

This beautiful white sand beach has one of the largest coral reefs in Hawai‘i and has some of the best snorkeling in Kaua‘i for all levels. Swimming is among the safest in the North Shore, and a good place to learn how to windsurf. You can see magnificent sunsets from here. Grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy. Turn west on second Kalihiwai Rd between 25 and 26 mile markers. Take ‘Anini Road to beach.

HĀ‘ENA STATE PARK

This long stretch of white sand beach with a protective coral reef is a great snorkeling spot with a variety of colorful tropical fish when the water is calm. This is also a great place to beachcomb, surf, windsurf and fish. You can explore nearby sea caves carved out more than 4,000 years ago when the sea was higher. Camping, showers and restrooms are available. Located at the end of Kühiö Hwy.

HANALEI BAY

One of the most majestic places on earth, this spot is also a great place to learn to surf, frolic in the water, jump off the pier, or just enjoy the incredible scenery. The sunsets are spectacular and the moonlight over Hanalei Bay is magical. There are four beach parks included in the two-mile sandy crescent shaped bay, and all have lifeguards on duty except Waikoko Beach. Black Pot Park is located next to the Hanalei River mouth, with tropical foliage along the river’s edge, and is a local gathering place with a variety of water activities. The Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park is a popular spot for picnics. The water is generally calmer near the pier. Wai‘oli Beach Park is near the center of the bay, set in an ironwood grove. Waikoko Beach is located on the westernmost section, and is protected by Waikoko Reef, so it’s popular with snorkelers and families. Picnic area, tables, pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Located off Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Access beaches off Aku Rd or Weke Rd.

KA‘AKA‘ANIU “LARSEN’S” BEACH

This long, narrow ribbon of sand and shallow reef lies at the foot of a series of low hills and pastures. A protecting reef offers excellent snorkeling for the experienced, but only when the ocean is calm. Poor visibility in the water can occur in the late summer. Beware of its rocky bottom and dangerous rip currents, 104

and stay away from the channels. This secluded beach is also a good place to beachcomb and fish. There are two small pockets of sand on the opposite side of Pakala Point. No lifeguard and no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near the 20-mile marker, take Ko‘olau Rd. Take the left Beach Access Rd. to the end. Walk through the gate and follow the trail down.

KALIHIWAI BEACH

This wide sandy beach fringed with ironwood trees at the head of scenic Kalihiwai Bay is popular with boogie boarders and beginner surfers. Swimming is generally good in the summer. One of the nicest surfing breaks on the North Shore in the winter brings the more experienced out to this beach. Wide, shallow sand bar enables body boarders to ride decent waves in the front part of the beach. High surf periods create dangerous swimming conditions. Located off Kühiö Hwy west of Kïlauea on Kahihiwai Rd.

KAUAPEA “SECRET” BEACH

This exquisite, long and wide sandy beach with great views of Lighthouse Point is stunning. Swimming and snorkeling can be good when the ocean is calm. Swimming can be hazardous, so observe the ocean before entering. Look for the small waterfall flowing over the side of the cliff. You can see Moku‘ae‘ae Island, which is a bird sanctuary. Located off Kuhio Hwy on the same turnoff as Kalihiwai Beach. Take a right onto the first dirt road, drive to the end of the road and park. The hike down takes about 10-15 minutes.

KAWEONUI (SEALODGE) BEACH

This pocket of white sand beach backed by cliffs is a great place to snorkel and see honu in calm ocean conditions or just be secluded from the rest of the world. Beware of dangerous entry and currents. Offshore is a surf break known as “Little Grass Shack.” Located off Kamehameha Rd. Access beach from the trail at Building A at the SeaLodge Resort.

KĒ‘Ē BEACH

The Thornbirds and Lord of the Flies were filmed at this exquisite and very popular beach. With views of the Näpali Coast, it is great for snorkeling and swimming in the protected lagoon in calm conditions. Snorkelers and scuba divers can expect to see teems of tropical fish and honu (green sea turtles) on calm, clear days. Stay inside the reef for calmer waters. Beware of

strong currents and dangerous waves breaking on rocks and ledges. The currents are deceptively strong even on days when the water looks calm, so it’s best to stay in the reef-protected lagoon. The beach gets crowded with hikers and beachgoers, so get there early for a parking space. You may want to stay for the magnificent Näpali sunsets from the point. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is from here. Bathrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located at the end of the road on Hwy 56.

LUMAHA‘I BEACH (BALI HAI)

One of the most stunning and most photographed beaches in Kaua‘i, it was made famous as the location for the movie South Pacific. This large, wide beautiful golden sand beach is popular with a background of verdant foliage cliffs. Swimming is not recommended here, since there is no protective reef barrier to guard you against the tumultuous sea. Dangers include powerful waves sweeping up unsuspecting beachgoers off the rocks into the sea, strong undertow and dangerous shorebreaks. It’s a great beach to sunbathe and take in the incredible scenery. Access to the western part of the beach is located off Hwy 560 at Wainiha near mile marker 5. The eastern part of the beach is separated by a lava rock of Lumaha‘i is Kahalahala Beach. In calm conditions (summer), this beach can be a picturesque beach to swim in crystal clear warm water and explore the tidepools. No facilities or lifeguards. Park in the dirt parking lot. To access, hike down a steep jungle trail from the top of the lookout.

MĀKUA “TUNNELS” BEACH

This is one of the best snorkeling beaches due to the wide-fringing reef with a huge variety of fish swimming around in the shallow inner and outer reefs. The exceptional beach is surrounded by gently sloping sand and is well protected with incredible mountain scenery popular with swimmers, surfers, windsurfers and beachcombers. The best snorkeling is in the center by the crescent shaped reef. Scuba divers can explore the underwater caverns near the shore. Beware of sharp reefs, rip currents and dangerous water conditions. No facilities at this beach, but the facilities at Hä‘ena State Park are nearby. Lifeguard on duty. Take one of two dirt roads off Hwy 56 north of Hanalei near the 8 mile marker.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MOLOA‘A BEACH

Surrounded by rolling hills, this beach is secluded and off the beaten path, with a wide crescent shaped sandy beach perfect for couples to catch a spectacular sunset or sunbathe, swim, snorkel and beachcomb. Be cautious of dangerous water conditions. The southeast side of the beach offers the best swimming and boogie boarding with plenty of shade. The beach is located where the Molo‘a (matted roots) Stream feeds into the bay. Located off Ko‘olau Rd. between mile markers 16 and 17. Take the narrow Moloa‘a Rd. to the end and follow the signs to the beach.

NĀPALI COAST PARK

About a two mile hike down from the Kalalau Trail is Hanakäpï‘ai Beach. The beach is beautiful but dangerous to swim. A difficult two mile hike inland near the stream leads to the waterfalls and a spectacular pool. Kalalau Beach is a long and wide sandy beach backed by sand dunes, located at the end of the trail (9 additional miles). There are other beautiful pristine beaches such as Miloli‘i Beach and Honopu Beach in the park, but they are only accessible by boat. Swimming and wading is dangerous due to strong currents and powerful waves at all the beaches in this awe-inspiring park. Camping is allowed with a permit. No lifeguard on duty. Access the beach from Kalalau Trail from Kë‘ë Beach at the end of Hwy 56.

PALI KE KUA (HIDEAWAYS)

Two beaches separated by a rocky point both have excellent snorkeling with a variety of tropical fish when the water is calm. Check ocean conditions carefully before entering for rip currents and do not enter when there is high surf. The large false kamani trees offer shade on the bed of coarse sand. People are scarce due to limited parking and hidden trail. Located off Ka Haku Rd. Take the path next to Pu‘u Poa tennis courts just before you reach the Princeville Hotel gatehouse and hike down to the beach.

PU‘U POA BEACH

Protected by a narrow reef offers great snorkeling with teems of colorful fish in crystal clear water. Safe when the surf is not high. The sandy beach is located directly below Princeville Hotel. Park at the small public parking lot. Take the beach access steps by the guardhouse at the hotel entrance.

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WAIAKALUA BEACH

A fabulous secluded beach with a long, fringing reef and shade along the sandy beach. Snorkeling and swimming can be good if the ocean is calm. There is a cool freshwater stream at the far end of the beach. Beware of dangerous rip currents, surges and high surf. Located off North Waiakalua Rd. Before the road ends, take the dirt road on the left side all the way to the end. Take the trail to the left and it’s the beach on the left. The beach on the right, past the Kepuhi Point is Waipakä Beach.

EAST SIDE ‘ALIOMANU BEACH

Pretty sandy beach shaded by ironwood trees and fringed by one of Kaua‘i’s longest reefs, this beach is a favorite of locals for gathering seaweed and spearfishing. Swimming can be safe in the lagoon when calm. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Aliomanu Rd.

ANAHOLA BEACH PARK

Grassy park with a beautiful sandy beach with good swimming conditions most of the time in the cove on the east side of the bay due to a large protective reef offshore. Snorkeling is good at the nearby reef; fishing and beachcombing are also good. The beach used mostly by locals is good for boogie board, body board and surf south of the old pier. The ironwood grove offers shade. Picnic tables, restrooms and showers are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Anahola Rd.

DONKEY (KUMUKUMU) BEACH

A fantastic long sandy beach in a cove at the base of a pasture named Donkey Beach because of the herd of mules that rested on the beach in the early plantation days. The waves draw in many surfers but it’s not a good beach for beginners. The winters yield high surf making swimming dangerous. Beware of steep entry, dangerous shorebreaks, strong currents and rocks submerged in the surf. Snorkeling can be good in a secluded cove north of the stream and over a small hill. No facilities or lifeguards. Located north of Kapa‘a ~ 1/2 mile north of the 11 mile marker off Hwy 56. Parking lot is at the top of the path to the beach. Hike 10 minutes to shoreline and take right for the beach; turn north and walk past the stream for the secluded cove.

FUJI BEACH (BABY BEACH)

Protected shallow section in the reef by a long, natural breakwater makes it a great place to have some water fun with the kids while you soak up the sun on the sandy beach. No facilities or lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy behind the Chevron in Kapa‘a.

KEĀLIA BEACH

A long, exquisite sandy beach with powerful waves makes it a great spot to watch experienced surfers and boogie boarders. Swimming can be done on calm days at the far northern end of the beach, which is protected by breakwater, but be careful of strong currents and sharp reefs. Public parking. Lifeguard on duty but no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near mile marker 10 north of Kapa‘a in Keälia.

LYDGATE STATE PARK

A scenic family beach that is very popular since it offers something for everyone including a park. There are two large lava pools great for children and offers safe swimming and snorkeling for beginners. Rock wall protects swimmers year-round and the ironwood groves provide shade. Kamalani playground has a wooden volcano; jungle gym and bright ceramic sea creatures adorn the playground. Picnic pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Leho Drive just south of the Wailua River.

NUKOLI‘I BEACH

Beautiful long narrow stretch of beach with shallow bottom offers an array of water activities. The beach stretches for miles to Lydgate Park swimming and snorkeling can be good in the well-protected reef and shallow waters when surf is calm. Fishing and surfing are also good here. Check ocean conditions before entering. There are more secluded beaches further north near Wailua Golf Coarse. Located at the end of Kaua‘i Beach Drive.

WAILUA BEACH

Long, wide golden sand beach near the Wailua River is good for taking a stroll or watching the experienced boogie boarders, surfers or watching the river flow into the sea. Swimming is dangerous due to strong rip currents and rough water. Children sometimes play near the river mouth when the currents aren’t strong. No facilities and no lifeguard. Located across from Coco Palms Resort. The beach is easily accessible when traveling north off Kühiö Hwy. 105

SAND + SURF WAIPŌULI BEACH

A long stretch of golden sand without crowds isn’t good for swimming since the ocean is rough and the coastline is rocky or reef, but it’s a great beach to watch windsurfers and fishermen pull in their catch. The beach has lots of hidden coves for seclusion and can be romantic. There is also a nice trail to jog while you take in the glorious scenery. Monk seals have been spotted quite frequently here. Located off Kühiö Hwy. There are many access points behind Coconut Marketplace.

LĪHU‘E & SOUTH SHORE BRENNECKE’S BEACH

A small sandy beach is popular with boogie boarders and honu. Waves tend to be bigger here in the summer than winter. Grassy area with picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. Located on Po‘ipü Rd.

HO‘AI (PRINCE KŪHIŌ) BEACH

A beautiful sandy crescent shaped beach with water protected by an offshore reef great for keiki and novice snorkelers when water is calm. This beach is popular for the honu (green sea turtles) and local fishermen who frequent the beach. Restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located off Läwa‘i Rd. in front of the Prince Kühiö Park.

HO‘ONA “BABY” BEACH

Great sandy beach for keiki (children) since the water is calm in a small cove behind off shore lava rocks. Access the beach using the walkway on Ho‘ona Rd. off Läwa‘i Rd.

KALAPAKĪ BEACH

This is a beautiful sandy crescent-shaped beach with tranquil water and a great place to learn to surf on the offshore break with great views of pali in the bay. It’s a great place to swim when conditions are calm. Beware of strong rip currents during high surf. Located off Rice St. west of Lïhu‘e in front of the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort and Beach Club. Park in the public parking lot at the hotel.

LĀWA‘I (BEACH HOUSE) BEACH

Small sandy beach is popular with snorkelers when the water is calm for the variety of fish in the offshore reef. It’s also a popular surfing spot for the waves that break offshore. Surfing competitions are held regularly here in spring thru fall. The small pocket of sand disappears in times of high surf. Beware of seasonal strong currents. The beach is located next to the Beach House Restaurant off Läwa‘i Rd.

MĀHĀ‘ULEPŪ BEACH

A long, beautiful and romantic beach with mountain vistas is a two mile sandy strand along a reef-protected shoreline and high sand dunes. The beauty of this beach was captured in the movie Islands in the Stream where George C. Scott played Ernest Hemingway. It’s good for swimming only during extreme calm conditions. Windsurfing, beachcombing and shoreline fishing are popular activities. This is a sacred site 106

for native Hawaiians and for endangered plants and species. No facilities and no lifeguards. Beach is closed from 7pm to 7:30am. Follow the cane road past Shipwreck Beach. Stop at the guard gate to get through.

NININI BEACHES

Ninini Beach and Running Waters Beach are hidden and out of the way beaches with pockets of sand separated by a lava rock formation. Protected and secluded, the beaches are good for snorkeling on calm days. Park across the street from the Kaua‘i Lagoons Golf Course or the clubhouse parking lot and follow path to beaches. Between Kalapakï beach and the lighthouse on Ninini Point near the 13th green.

PO‘IPŪ BEACH PARK

Po‘ipü Beach in the county park is nationally ranked and popular because the sunny weather and calm water that surrounds the chain of beautiful wide, white sandy beaches. An offshore reef causes the waves to break before they reach the shore making it a keikifriendly beach. Swimming and snorkeling are great between the offshore reef and the coast while the breaking waves outside the calm waters create surfing and boogie boarding opportunities. The protected beach area is great for novice snorkelers. Dangerous water conditions can occur during periods of high surf. Beginning surf lessons are available as well as a nearby playground. Lifeguards, picnic tables, pavilions, showers and restrooms are also available. Located off Po‘ipü Rd. south of Ho‘owili Rd.

SHIPWRECK (KEONELOA) BEACH

A lovely beach to sunbathe but not a good swimming beach due to dangerous ocean conditions is named for an old unidentified shipwreck. On the left is Makawehi Point where you will see fishermen surf casts and brave locals jumping into the sea as did Harrison Ford and Anne Heche from Six Days, Seven Nights. It’s a good beach for boogie boarding, surfing and windsurfing for the experienced. Showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located in front of the Hyatt. Take public access road between the Hyatt and the Po‘ipü Bay Resort Golf Course.

WEST SIDE BARKING SANDS BEACH

The beach is a continuation of the long white sand beach with superb vistas of Ni‘ihau and incredible sunsets. The name is due to the sound the sand sometimes makes when sliding down the 60’ high dunes along the beach but watch out for the thorns from the kiawe trees. Swimming is not recommended on this beach due to dangerous ocean conditions. Located between Kekaha Beach and Polihale Beach on the northern part of the Pacific Missiles Range off Kaumuali‘i.

KEKAHA BEACH PARK

This is the first beach of the series and is an exquisite long stretch of white sand with spectacular sunsets and many great surfing spots along the way. The

beach offers clear views of Ni‘ihau. This area is almost always sunny and shade is absent. Picnic area, grills, pavilions, showers and restrooms are available. Swimming can be extremely dangerous. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kaumuali‘i Hwy.

PĀKALĀ (INFINITIES) BEACH

The beach is picturesque and surrounded by lush tropical foliage and trees and a favorite spot for experienced surfers. This is not a good swimming beach due to murky water known for shark sightings and other dangerous ocean conditions, but it’s a great place to watch the locals surf and catch a magical sunset. The reef is called “Infinities” because it creates long perfect waves. Located by 21-mile marker off Hwy 50.

POLIHALE BEACH

The longest and widest stretch of beach in the Hawaiian Islands, this 7-mile white sandy beach is breathtaking and considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Kaua‘i. The name means, “a leaping off place for spirits” or “house of death”. The usually sunny beach is framed by the majestic Näpali Coast and has sweeping sand dunes that can get up to 100 feet high and you can catch amazing sunsets with views of Ni‘ihau. This remote area is a great place to stargaze. The only safe place to swim is in the Queen’s Pond where the fringing reef offers protection from the extremely strong currents when the surf isn’t high; beware of sharp coral. Picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguards. Camping by permit only. Located at end of Rte 50. Take left onto the bumpy dirt road and drive several miles. Follow signs to beach.

SALT POND BEACH PARK

The protected reef in this pretty crescent shaped beach with lots of palms is great for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing. Swimming is usually safe year round in the large lagoon and the sunsets are spectacular. Salt ponds are nearby where generations past made salt by evaporating seawater in red earthen pans and still do today. Please do not enter the salt-making area. The beach is also great for windsurfing, boogie boarding and exploring the tidepools. Lifeguard on duty. Picnic tables, pavilions, grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located in Hanapëpë. Take left turn on Lele past town off Kaumuali‘i Hwy and right on Lokokai Rd. to park. EDITOR’S NOTE: There is a wise saying in Hawai‘i, “Leave only footprints and take only memories.” Please take all your trash and don’t take anything that does not belong to you including those that belong to the sea. It’s best to leave your valuables at your hotel and not in your car, so the time can be spent relaxing and not worrying. Conditions change with the seasons, so take the time to evaluate the sea and read the beach safety. It is highly recommended to visit beaches with lifegauards on duty. Visit kauailifeguards.org for more safety information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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CALENDAR

KAUA‘I EVENTS ONGOING LIVE MUSIC AT SHUTTERS LOUNGE (Everyday) – Listen to great live music while dining on well-priced, delicious food every evening including late night fare and small plates at Shutters Lounge at Kauaÿi Beach Resort located in Lïhuÿe. Happy hour Lanai Menu is available from 5pm to 6:30pm daily. Live music nightly from 7pm to 10pm. Open from 5pm to 11pm Sunday thru Thursday and 5pm to midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Call Kauaÿi Beach Resort (808) 245-1955 for more information. GROVE FARM MUSEUM TOUR (Mon., Wed., Thurs.) – An unhurried, 2-hour guided tour of the 100-acre Grove Farm site preserves one of Hawaiÿi’s sugar plantation buildings, furnishings and collections, surrounding orchards and pasturelands. This homestead was the center of operations for the developing sugar plantation and involved the relationship of family life, plantation activity, household work, gardening and farming and continues as part of the experience of visiting Grove Farm. Advance reservations are required (10am to 1pm). Fee: $20 for adults and $10 for ages 5-12. Call (808) 245-3202. WAIMEA HISTORIC WALKING TOUR (Mondays) – Take a 2.5-hour walk back through time in the place where Captain Cook first landed in Waimea. Where the agricultural landscape changed from taro to rice to corn, watered by an intricate ditch system with a marvelous history dating back to the time of the legendary Menehune. Learn about the last King of Kauaÿi, the missionaries, and other famous citizens of Waimea along with the landmarks they left behind. Enjoy a taste of the past in one of the most historic towns in all of Hawaiÿi. Registration is required for participation and Special Group tours are available. Free. Call West Kauaÿi Tech & Visitor Center (808) 3381332 for more information. KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET (Wednesdays) – Meet Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors, as well as Kukui‘ula Village merchants and enjoy Chef Demonstration at 5pm with Kaua‘i grown produce, and listen to Hawaiian and local style music. Wine and beer garden, freshly grilled püpü and sweet treats, and 20 Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors make for a lively 108

fun evening. Stay for dinner and shopping at the great retail shops and restaurants. Every Wednesday from 3:30pm to 6pm at Kukui‘ula Village in Po‘ipü. HANAPĒPĒ FRIDAY NIGHT FESTIVAL & ART WALK (Fridays) – Come join the festivity! Every Friday evening, Old Town Hanapëpë is bustling with fun and activity! With a wide variety of shopping, local crafters, several excellent restaurants, a dozen art galleries, stilt walkers, classics cars, live music and entertainment, there is always something for the whole family to enjoy! From 6pm-9pm. Call Ed (808) 335-6469. ALOHA FRIDAY: MAKE A LEI, WEAR A LEI (Fridays) - Come and enjoy making fresh flower lei and learn the different methods of lei making. Materials are provided. Workshop in Waimea at West Kauaÿi Visitor Center. Free. For more info, call (808) 338-1332. KAUAŸI COMMUNITY MARKET (Saturdays) - New weekend value added farmers market hosted by the Kauaÿi County Farm Bureau and Kauaÿi Community College. Kauaÿi Community Market features a wide variety of locally grown fruit and produce, value added products like coffee, honey and goat cheese, plus culinary treats, breakfast and lunch items to eat at the market or take home. Learn ways to grow and prepare local foods, educational demos and garden tours held regularly. A great way to buy fresh and buy local, supporting Kauaÿi Grown products and Kauaÿi farmers from Hanalei to Kekaha. At Kauaÿi Community College front lawn and parking lot from 9:30am to 1pm. Free. Call (808) 652-3217. KAUAI ISLAND CRAFTERS FAIR (Saturdays) - You will find an amazing array of quality hand-made products from Kauai’s own crafters and artisans. Beautifully-crafted handbags, fabric angels, Hawaiian quilts, Hawaiian dolls, towel wraps, Kauaÿi scenic photography & paintings & fiber arts, carved hardwood tikis & bone jewelry, beachwear cover-up, sunrise shell jewelry, souvenirs and lots more by local Kauaÿi artists. This is where you will find that unique gift for that joyous occasion or special someone that will be cherished for years (8am to 2pm). Place: Church of the Pacific, 5-4280 Kühiö Highway, Princeville.

Proceeds to benefit The Church of the Pacific. Contact (808) 635-4314. ‘OHANA DAY (Monthly) – The first Saturday of each month is ‘Ohana Day for family fun at the Kauaÿi Museum. Look forward to demonstrations, lectures and more during these special days. 10am to 5pm at the Kauaÿi Museum in Lïhuÿe. Free for kamaÿäina, and discounted for visitors. Call (808) 245-6931. PRINCEVILLE NIGHT MARKET (Monthly) - Princeville Night Market is a monthly festival, held every second Sunday, featuring live music and local artisans at the Princeville Shopping Center. Discover 40+ local artisans as you walk around the grounds from 4pm to 8pm. Listen to live music from several different bands. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! For more info, email PrincevilleNightMarket@gmail.com. KĪLAUEA ART NIGHT (Monthly) - Kïlauea Art Night is a monthly festival held on the last Saturday of each month featuring live music, local artisans and trendy food trucks. Line up for pulled-pork sandwiches and fresh fish tacos, stretch out on blankets while listening to the band. Walk around the grounds to discover 40+ local artisans. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! Held at Anaina Hou Community Park. Email KilaueaArtNight@ gmail.com for more info. PAU HANA TRIVIA NIGHT (May 3, June 7, July 5, Aug. 2) – Every first Friday of the month is Pau Hana Trivia Night at Anaina Hou Community Park from 6pm to 8pm. Come start the weekend with us in the beautiful Porter Pavilion. There are food trucks, beer, wine, and trivia with Katie, Kauaÿi’s “Trivia Girl.” Bring the kids! There’s a big lawn for the keiki to run around on and/or board games to borrow. Everyone is welcome! Come early to save your team a table. Anaina Hou Community Park is at 5-2723 Kühiö Hwy in Kïlauea. With questions, please email Katie: thetriviagirl@gmail.com. KEIKI DAY AT NA ‘ĀINA BOTANICAL GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK (May 18, June 29, July 27, Aug. 24) – Na ÿÄina Kai’s playday is a monthly event held on a KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: MIKE TERUYA

selected Saturday from 9am to 1pm where you can enjoy quality time with your kids in the “Under the Rainbow” Children’s Garden. Kids can get wet and play in Jack’s fountain, explore the jungle tree house and discover the many child-friendly features of the Children’s Garden. Bring a towel, and be prepared to get wet. Outside snacks are permitted and reservations are recommended ($10/person, free for children under 1 years old). For the monthly schedule and to make reservations, call (808) 828-0525 or visit NaAinaKai.org/keiki-day. MAY ANNUAL VISITOR INDUSTRY CHARITY WALK (May 11) - The Hawaii Lodging and Tourism Association Kauaÿi Chapter will host the 39th Annual Visitor Industry Charity Walk. The walk will start at 7am at the Vidinha Soccer Field and take walkers through a 3-mile route. The Charity Walk is open to the public and everyone is welcome to participate. All walkers should have minimum donation regardless of age, which includes food, fun and entertainment. Please note that no pets are allowed on the Charity Walk. For more info and to register, call (808) 651-5480 or visit CharityWalkHawaii.org. BANANA POKA ROUNDUP (May 26) – A festive family event for young and old, this annual forest education fair combines education of Kauaÿi’s forest environment with myhawaiitraveler.com

good fun and Hawaiian music including games for kids, crafts, lei-making, make baskets, drawings, snacks, silent auction and a crowing contest. At Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow in Kökeÿe State Park, 10am to 4pm. Free admission with donations accepted. Call (808) 335-9975 or email info@kokee.org.. JUNE 31ST ANNUAL TASTE OF HAWAII: THE ULTIMATE SUNDAY BRUNCH (June 2) - Taste of Hawaii was not only the first event of its kind in Hawaiÿi, it has consistently been a statewide favorite attracting more than 2,000 attendees annually. Voted the “Best Community Event” on Kauaÿi several times, the event will once again take place at Smith’s Tropical Paradise. With more than 25 chefs, 15 beverage vendors, and 10 musical acts, it’s an afternoon of endless food, drink, and dancing hosted by the Rotary Club of Kapaÿa. Visit TasteOfHawaii.com or call (808) 346-7095 for tickets ($100). JULY 34TH ANNUAL KŌLOA PLANTATION DAYS (July 19-28) - Over 25 events celebrate the plantation heritage and modern-day vitality of South Shore communities of Köloa and Poÿipü during this 10-day, family-oriented festival. Each year, the festival brings visitors and residents together to learn about Köloa’s

multicultural history, experience a diverse range of local foods, culture and activities, explore the area’s unique ecology and archaeology, and enjoy the warm hospitality of the South Shore’s resorts, golf courses, and other neighborhood venues. You’ll find rodeo events, “talk stories” about growing up on the plantation, live music events, cultural performances, film nights, culinary demonstrations, craft fairs, guided walks and hikes, activities and games just for keiki (children), sporting events, and the historic parade and park celebration. Visit KoloaPlantationDays.com for full schedule of events or call Melissa (808) 652-3217. AUGUST 18TH ANNUAL HEIVA I KAUAŸI IORANA TAHITI CULTURAL FESTIVAL (Aug. 3-4) – This is a Kauaÿi Tahitian dance and drumming competition featuring traditional and contemporary solo and group dance plus professional dance exhibitions daily. Pacific Island artists and cultural demonstrations, delicious island foods and Polynesian crafts available; silent auction daily. Tickets are $7/person/day (children 12 and under are free) at Kapaÿa Beach Park from 10am to 4pm (gates open at 9am). Sponsored by HTA & County of Kauaÿi. For more info, call (808) 822-9447 or visit HeivaIKauai.com. All events are subject to change. Check out myhawaiitraveler.com for updates and more events. 109

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KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

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KAUA‘I FOR YOUR INFORMATION Area Code (808) for entire state

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance/Police/Fire Civil Defense Poison Control Wilcox Memorial Hospital

911 733-4300 1-800-362-3585 245-1100

AIRPORTS

Līhu‘e Ariport

AIRLINES

Alaska Airlines American Airlines go! Airlines Hawaiian Airlines Japan Airlines United Airlines

CREDIT CARDS

American Express MasterCard Visa Credit Card Directory

TRANSPORTATION

Hertz Car Rental Bus Taxi

246-1448

1-800-654-5669 1-800-433-7300 1-888-IFLYGO2 1-800-882-8811 1-800-525-3663 1-800-241-6522

1-800-221-7282 1-800-307-7309 1-800-847-2911 1-800-555-1212

1-800-654-3011 241-6410 246-9554

WEATHER/CONDITIONS Weather Forecast Marine Forecast

245-6001 245-3564

VISITOR INFORMATION Directory 1-800-555-1212 Information 411 Agricultural Inspection 245-2831 Hawai‘i County Parks 241-4463 Hawai‘i State Parks 274-3444 Fishing License 274-3344 Hunting License 274-3433 Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce 245-7363 Kaua‘i Visitors Information 1-800-262-1400

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Raft Adventures

Luxury Catamaran

Beach Landing Picnic Hike

Snorkel Na Pali

Sunset Dinner Cruises

Sea Caves & Waterfalls

Playful Dolphins

Cocktails & Buffet

Book Online or Call to Save!

kauaiseatours.com

SEA CAVES & WATERFALLS

CULTURAL SITES

DOLPHINS & SNORKELING

U KA A’I TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I

KAUA‘I TRAVELER myhawaiitraveler.com

CITIZENS

OF THE SEA OCEAN LIFE ENCOUNTERS

Princeville Resort

SUMMER 2019

Award winning designs, exceptional quality and unsurpassed service. Allgemstones, diamonds, pearls are unique and certified. The exclusive Van Balen line is handmade in Hawaii.

5520 Ka Haku Road Princeville, HI 96722 9:00am-9:00pm daily 808.826.6555 info@ValVanBalen.com

LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW $6.99

CULINARY FUSION

TASTING FLAVORS FROM THE PAST

LEGENDARY WAILUA THE SACRED RIVER VALLEY

KŌKE'E IS CALLING

EXPLORE UNTOUCHED BEAUTY

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Kauai Traveler

Articles inside

Citizens of the Sea: Ocean Life Encounters

Going the Distance

Little Shop of Smiles

Kōkeʻe is Calling

The Sunny South: Poʻipū to Waimea Canyon

Kaua'i: The Garden Isle