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SUBIC BAY FREEPORT
YOUNG & WILD at Heart PATRICIA CENDAÑA experiences Subic Bay anew with childlike wonder
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SUBIC BAY METROPOLITAN AUTHORITY.
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eema prowled inside the cage, her tail flickering each time she reached a dead end. The chattering of the tour group behind us became background noise compared to the low growling sound she made. She glanced at us every other moment with intelligent upturned eyes, as if to ensure her prey was still there to catch once she finally found a chance to pounce. But perhaps that was just paranoia talking. At first glance, the sleek tawny fur and the proud shape of her face marked her as a lion. But the dark stripes on her legs and
belly identified her as something else— something unique. “A liger is a crossbreed of a male lion and a female tiger,” Jackie, our tour guide, explained as I continued to watch Neema from a safe distance. “They grow larger in size than both their parents combined.” “Compared to Neema, the purebred lions lazily sprawled in their cages, blinking at us slowly before resting their chins back on their paws. For the longest time, Zoobic Safari has been known as “the only tiger safari in the Philippines,” and now the
park had added a new attraction called the Lion Close Encounter. It was only natural perhaps to have two of the most popular feline predators of the animal kingdom in Zoobic Safari.” I hadn’t been to Zoobic Safari (zoobic. com.ph) since a school field trip long ago. Admittedly, I didn’t have high expectations for this visit. But seeing Neema certainly changed that and promised an exciting rediscovery of Subic Bay, one of the top travel destinations in the Philippines, only a few hours’ drive from Manila.
Liger vs. Tigon
Unlike ligers, tigons are a cross between male tigers and female lions. Tigons are smaller than both their parents. Both hybrid breeds are social cats that can produce both lion roars and tiger growls.
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SUBIC BAY FREEPORT
NOTABLE LANDMARKS The 19th century Spanish Gate was Subic Bay’s primary naval station for many years during the Spanish colonization. Aside from being a former cemetery for marines, it was also used as a jail by both the Spaniards and Americans. The Subic Bay Yacht Club (subicbayyachtclub.ph) is a luxurious exclusive club that includes extravagant accommodations and an extensive marina. The club is known to hold sailing activities and water sports. The Subic Bay Exhibition and Convention Center (SBECC) is the largest convention center outside of Metro Manila, crowning Subic Bay Freeport as the “Premiere Convention Capital of the Philippines.” It can seat about 12,000 people, allowing the SBFZ to host some of the country’s biggest events.
BY LEAPS, BOUNDS AND GALLOPS Meanwhile, compared to Zoobic Safari’s buzzing energy and constant surge of visitors, the El Kabayo Stables is peaceful and covered with verdant fields and trees. The grazing horses barely spared us a second look as we pulled up by stables’ entrance. I’d ridden horses before, but none were ever as tall or as heavily built as El Kabayo’s thoroughbred horses. I might have pulled a muscle swinging my leg up over the saddle, even with the help of Jerry, one of the stable masters. Once I
BY ANY OTHER NAME The area was originally named Hubek, which means “head of the plow” but was misheard as “Subiq” by Spanish colonizers during the 1800s. The name evolved again during the American period, when “Subiq” was mispronounced and changed into “Subig” until the name finally came to its modern variation: Subic.
was upright on the saddle—and actually way too high up from the ground for my comfort—my heart started pounding and my hands become damp from tightly on the reins. Whenever my horse flattened its ears and stomped its hooves impatiently, I thought I was going to fall off and embarrass myself. “Find your balance,” Jerry told me, his voice steady. “Press your ankles firmly against him and relax. He can tell you’re upset.” His soothing tone and light touch on the horse’s muzzle calmed me and my horse.
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I took a deep breath and followed Jerry’s instructions. It was either that or risk being bucked off the saddle. Amazingly enough, we moved in sync after that, my horse trotting slowly around the grassy fields as I marveled at the quiet. When I’d gained a little more confidence about my ability to stay seated on the saddle, I lifted a hand from the reins and tentatively rubbed its neck, his mane silky and dark against my fingers. I could feel the way his muscles bunched and relaxed under my hand as he moved across the open fields.
I so enjoyed my ride that it was difficult to leave the stables after that, but my next adventure awaited at The Encounter Cove in Ocean Adventure.
DOLPHIN TALES I held on tightly to Zack, praying my fingers didn’t slip from his fins. And then I tilted my face up to the sky as we turned in fast dizzying circles, the seawater stinging my eyes and spraying my sunburned cheeks. We were spinning so fast that I was afraid Zack would accidentally throw me off into the ocean.
When he finally stopped spinning us in circles, I floated aimlessly and tried to get my bearings. “Are you okay?” asked Clarissa, the dolphin trainer assigned to me. Zack made a sound from his blowhole that, if I didn’t know any better, sounded suspiciously like laughter. “Zack’s very fast,” I managed to answer. The Encounter Cove in Ocean Adventure (oceanadventure.com.ph) has shallow and deep waters that allows various kinds
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE of interactions with the water park’s bottlenose dolphins. Loki, whom the trainers affectionately call “tall, dark, and handsome,” was the first dolphin I met. While Clarissa pointed out the dolphin’s different body parts, Loki gamely showed off his fins, belly, and peduncle. Midway, however, Loki swam away from us towards one of the dolphins in the deep waters. “He’s going to Kira,” Clarissa explained with a laugh. “She’s his current partner and he can’t stand to be apart from her for long. He loves doing the live shows with her.”
She added that Loki had previously had two other partners before Kira. This revelation explained why he was deemed the Casanova amongst this group of dolphins. This became even more apparent when he came back to give us a kiss on the cheek, ever the charmer. Zack, on the other hand, is wider and shorter than Loki—making him look chubby or stocky, in human terms. He was more attentive to his human guests; but had he been a ladies’ man like Loki, perhaps that wouldn’t be the case.
SUBIC BAY FREEPORT
UNIQUE PERSONALITIES AND FRIENDSHIPS FORGED When it was time to swim to the deep waters, I couldn’t help but cling to my boogie board. Clarissa must have noticed my nervousness. “Don’t worry,” she assured me, “Nala will be the one to push you forward. She’s the smallest and youngest dolphin in our group.” I lay across my boogie board, crossed one leg and kept the other straight and firm. I inhaled sharply when I felt Nala’s beak press against the foot of my straight leg. I didn’t even have time to scream—Nala propelled me so quickly that we reached the floating platform in the deep waters in no time.
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While rubbing my hand over Zack’s skin near his dorsal fin, I noticed light scratches scattered all over his body. “Dolphins love to play together and sometimes they get a little rough with each other,” Clarissa explained. “They’re very social creatures.” That seemed an understatement, as they’re certainly one of the most extroverted beings I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting. I asked Clarissa how she could tell them apart, as they all seemed to look alike. She replied with a wide smile, “Their faces. Their personalities. Spending so much time with them helps.” I still am unable to tell dolphins apart; but after that encounter, I now know that each of them is unique and different from one other. Waving goodbye to Zack—me with my hand and him with his tailfin—made me want to stay a little bit longer. As I watched him slip under the opaque waters, I remembered that there were still so many places to see and things to do in Subic. In any case, I was definitely going to stop by and say hello to our wild friends on my next visit. n Special thanks to Subic Bay Metropolitan Authority (SBMA).
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THE ADVENTURER’S BUCKET LIST
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TAKE A WALKING TOUR AND ENJOY A PICNIC in the picturesque Pamulaklakin Aeta Forest Trail (Binictican Drive, Subic Bay Freeport Zone). Enjoy the lush greens and quiet streams as you participate in jungle survival demonstrations and tribal dance performances by the Aetas.
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COOL OFF at El Kabayo Waterfalls (El Kabayo Road, Subic Bay Freeport Zone), one of the most accessible waterfalls in Subic. It has two waterfalls: the first is approximately three meters high while the second, just 30 meters away from the smaller waterfall, is around five meters high.
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JOIN the Jungle Environment Survival Training (JEST) Camp (jestcamp.com) and learn how to thrive in the wild. Courses include “Hunt Gatherer,” an overnight course where campers learn how to create natural shelters, purify water, and even identify and collect plants for medicine and food.
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DIVE AND SWIM WITH OLD SUNKEN SHIPS in Subic Bay, as one of the largest and most historical shipwreck sites in the Philippines.
SUBIC BAY MANIA FOR KIDS Head over to Subic Bay’s numerous family-friendly attractions
Find Dory & Her Friends
Swim with the dolphins at Ocean Adventure (oceanadventure.com.ph) and learn more about other sea creatures through live shows and encounters such as the Sea Lion Meet and Feed.
Go Hunting with Tigers
Get up close and personal with the wild animals prowling the 25-hectare Zoobic Safari (zoobic.com.ph), also known as the only “tiger safari” in the Philippines.
Jump Off the Edge
Conquer your fear of heights at Treetop Adventure (treetopadventureph.com) and go on zipline adventures like the Canopy Ride.
See Double
Experience the artsy and quirky-themed activities at Funtastic Park Subic Bay (funtasticpark.com). Tackle the Mirror Maze, and search for the exit amidst hundreds of your reflections, or go through the Garden Maze, a dizzying outdoor maze with winding paths.
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE Located in the province of Zambales, Subic Bay is one of the largest freeports in the country and internationally recognized as one of the best in Asia. It’s also known as the Sailing Capital of the Philippines.
WHEN TO GO
Subic Bay Freeport Zone (SBFZ) is known for its natural and aquatic tourist spots so it’s best to visit during summer, from March to May, when the weather is clear and sunny.
HOW TO GET THERE
Subic Bay Freeport is only a two-and-ahalf hour drive from Manila. From EDSA, take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), past the Clark-Angeles toll booth. Turn into the Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEx), and follow the highway until it merges with Tipo Road and into the Subic Bay Freeport Expressway.
Where to Eat NEW FENG HUANG SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Pick the fresh catch of the day straight from this beachside restaurant’s aquarium and ask the kitchen to cook it as you please. Start your meal with a stuffed shrimp spring roll with tartar sauce, followed by the meaty and succulent salt and pepper crab seasoned with flavorful spices. Then end with a sweet creamy coconut jelly for dessert. (Waterfront Road, Subic Bay Freeport Zone) MEATPLUS CAFÉ One of Subic Bay’s famous haunts, this restaurant is well-known for its generous slabs of juicy ribs and steaks perfect for hungry travelers with big appetites. (Bldg. 65, Sampson Road, Subic Bay Freeport Zone) XTREMELY XPRESSO CAFÉ Friends and families can take part in a 22-inch Big Ben pizza before heading back to the city. Sip on their signature frappucino “Shockwave” for an energy boost. xtremelyxpresso.com
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE Where to Stay
SUBIC PARK HOTEL & RESTAURANT This family-run boutique hotel has warm and homey touches that exude true Filipino hospitality. subicparkhotel.com BEST WESTERN PLUS HOTEL SUBIC BAY The only international hotel chain in Subic Bay Freeport, Best Western Plus has the best views of Subic Bay from its Sky Oasis Pool and bar at the top floor. bestwesternsubic.com
SUBIC BAY PENINSULAR HOTEL This hotel is perfect for business travelers with its strategic location in the city and efficient staff and service. subicbaypeninsular.com SUBIC BAY TRAVELERS HOTEL & EVENTS CENTER INC. This business hotel boasts of the biggest “pillar-less” function hall in Subic Bay, ideal for board meetings, trade shows, and formal banquets. subicbaytravelershotel.com
MANSION GARDEN HOTEL Enjoy sumptuous Filipino and Western cuisine at this hotel’s Garden Café. mansiongardenhotel.com THE LIGHTHOUSE MARINA RESORT Ocean-inspired rooms, and a dramatic lighthouse with beach access await guests at this seaside resort. lighthousesubic.com SUBIC GRAND HARBOUR HOTEL Both comfort and adventure can be had at this hotel with its in-house spa services and available tour arrangements in various Subic Bay attractions. subicgrandharbour.com
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