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The TRAVELIFE team escaped to Hong Kong with model JESSICA YANG. Together we explored Hong Kong’s most interesting neighborhoods
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e’ve been to Hong Kong so many times that we’ve lost count. In fact the business district of Central and the tourist shopping area of Tsim Sha Tsui are as familiar to us as our own home district of Makati. But navigating the hilly terrain above Central but just below Hong Kong’s Mid-Levels, with its antique shops and quaint bars and cafes, made us fall in love with Hong Kong all over again.
We spent hours puttering around Hollywood Road, Hong Kong’s famed antique street, hoping to find an Oriental masterpiece for a song. But our treasure hunt yielded nothing that would fit our suitcase or our budget. So instead we headed down for a lively evening in SoHo, where we watched couples in love walk past on their way to a dinner perhaps, as we sipped cold glasses of Chardonnay at an open-air wine bar.
Photographed by Bryan Arevalo Modeled by Jessica Yang Art Direction by Adrian Carlo Velasco With the cooperation of the Hong Kong Tourism Board and TeamAsia Dress by Charina Sarte at Greenbelt 5
LANTAU ISLAND Away from the frenetic activity of the commercial and business districts, Hong Kong’s largest outlying island soothes the mind and recharges the soul. It’s near the airport as well, on beautiful Lantau Island, so it’s not a difficult trip for anyone flying into or out of Hong Kong. Head for the Yim Tin Mangrove Forest or the living museums of the Old Tai O people. If you’re in the mood to really chill out, a hike along the 70-kilometer Lantau Trail followed by dinner and drinks in the expat enclave of Discovery Bay will be just right for you.
TRAVELIFE Recommends
THRILLS VIA NGONG PING 360 The 25-minute cable car ride to the village of Ngong Ping on Lantau Island has got to be the most spellbinding ride in Hong Kong right now. Opt for the Crystal Cabin and you’ll get a glass-bottomed car that will literally and thrillingly bring you much closer to nature. You’ll go over mountains, hills, lush vegetation and water – and the glass bottom will make you feel like you’re suspended over nature. Not for the faint-hearted. But those who don’t want to see their life flash before them can take the regular cable car for a calmer ride. In Ngong Ping, you can shop for local crafts and try out a variety of inexpensive restaurants. Don’t forget to catch the Walking with Buddha multimedia show and visit the Po Lin Monastery, one of Hong Kong’s most famous religious sites. The monastery also runs a restaurant serving a vegetarian feast inside. If you still have the energy, climb the 268 steps to the Tian Tan Buddha, a 26.4 meter statue on top of a 34-meter lotus throne. The Ngong Ping Cable Car station is near the MTR Tung Chung Station.
STANLEY BAY
Named after a 19th-century British Secretary of State, Stanley was the administrative center of the British colony in 1842 before it was moved to Central District, formerly Victoria City. It’s always been a tourist attraction mainly for the cheap shopping, as well as a favorite weekend destination for locals seeking to get away from the commotion elsewhere. But recently it’s gotten a makeover and become way more hip. There are now chic cafes and wine bars for hanging out, and even a couple of romantic restaurants right by the new pier. Stanley Market is still around as well so you can get your shopping done and then relax with a round of drinks and some very good cheese at Stanley Plaza or dine on the terrace of the Victorian-era Murray House.
Dress by Charina Sarte at Greenbelt 5
HONG KONG
HONG KONG SPECIAL
SECOND A CHANCES IN HONG KONG The TRAVELIFE team rediscovers a familiar and well-loved destination
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Hong Kong has multiple personalities, perhaps as a result of that complicated but endlessly fascinating combination of having been under the influence of the British and then now under the Chinese. Yes, Hong Kong is now firmly ensconced within China, but the stamp of the British is also still evident in everything from beloved institutions like the Hong Kong Club to street names and local practices. How wonderful it must be to have the best of both worlds and yet to be under the protection of one of the world’s most powerful countries.
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Photographed by Bryan Arevalo
lmost everyone we know has been to Hong Kong. Fortunately, there’s always a reason to keep returning because it’s the kind of place that is constantly reinventing itself so it’s fresh and different on every visit.
HONG KONG SPECIAL
The many facets of Asia’s world city
Stanley Plaza
Breathtaking view of Victoria Harbour from The Peak
DYNAMISM AT WORK The unique relationship between Hong Kong and China is constantly evolving as well, as two similar but also very different societies find a way to co-exist together for mutual prosperity. Today the former British colony is a major tourism destination for China’s increasingly affluent mainland population, as well as an important hub in East Asia with global connections to many of the world’s cities. It is a unique destination that has absorbed people and cultural influences from places as diverse as Vietnam and Vancouver. Hong Kong is the genuine Orient, but at the same time not quite. It’s truly Asia’s World City. Hong Kong is much more than just another harbor city. For one thing, its skyscrapers are jam-packed along one of the most beautiful
FEBRUARY-MARCH 2012
sea lanes in the world. In fact the traveler weary of its tight concrete landscape and narrow, crowded streets may be tempted to describe it as Hong Kongcrete. But escaping the urban crush is easy. Just get on a bus or take a taxi outwards and within half an hour you’ll find yourself in a territory of craggy mountains, picturesque bays and mostly rural scenes. We, for one, never tire either of the view of the Hong Kong skyline or the scenic route from the city to the airport, and we try to enjoy the views at every opportunity.
GREAT EXPECTATIONS So whether it’s your first time or your fortieth visit, Hong Kong is a place that constantly delights. It’s utterly safe and almost too organized for comfort, in spite of the Asian chaos everywhere; and whatever your fascination, it offers every kind of experience, from cool and modern to charmingly old-fashioned. Hong Kong fulfills every expectation.
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HONG KONG SPECIAL TRAVELIFE Recommends
THE BEST OF OUTLET SHOPPING
Hong Kong is a shoppers’ paradise with bargains in every neighborhood and no trip here would be complete without luggage’s packed to the max. There are a couple of warehouses and outlets in some far-flung areas, however, where discounts are even deeper if you don’t mind items from previous seasons or slightly damaged products. We certainly don’t mind a sweater with a missing button if we can get it at 70% off. Many of the stores are off the beaten track and you’ll need a good taxi driver and detailed directions in Chinese to get there. But the great discounts are worth the trek. LANE CRAWFORD WAREHOUSE 25/F Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau Tel. (852) 2118-3403
SPACE WAREHOUSE for Prada products 2/F, Marina Square, Ap Lei Chau Tel. (852) 2814-9576
JOYCE WAREHOUSE OUTLET 21/F Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau Tel. (852) 2814-8313
CITYGATE OUTLET MALL 20 Tat Tung Road, Tung Chung, Lantau
Madame Taussaud Museum
And, of course, there are the quintessential Hong Kong experiences that are not to be missed. Enjoying a bowl of rice porridge with stinky bean curd for breakfast at a tiny food stall in Mongkok, for instance, or braving the hordes at the horse races in Happy Valley; gathering at a dim sum place for a weekend lunch or taking the Star Ferry back and forth until you tire of the views. Joining in the tai chi exercises that take place in almost every park in Hong Kong at dawn or venturing out of the city limits to have an aperitif by the shores of Stanley; watching the sun rise from Victoria Peak or taking a junk out for a grilled fish lunch and a day in the outlying islands.
STRAIGHT TO THE TOP Hong Kong’s most popular attraction is more than just about stunning vistas. After a recent facelift, Victoria Peak – affectionately just called The Peak – now offers a host of unique must-visit attractions at The Peak Tower, providing for a diverse fun-filled experience of Hong Kong at its best. The most enjoyable way to get to The Peak is still the old-fashioned way: via the 120-seater 120-year-old Peak Tram, one of the world’s oldest and most famous funicular railways. It
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Ngong Ping 360
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HONG KONG SPECIAL
Stanley Pier
rises 396 meters above sea level and, quite frankly, you’re in for a ride. Jaded travelers will probably scoff at this meandering vehicle, preferring to grab a taxi and head up, if they are to visit The Peak at all. But it’s actually fun and highly recommended. The tram ride is particularly thrilling. In fact, it’s so steep that the buildings you pass look like they are leaning a gradient of between 4 to 27 degrees. Meanwhile, T he Peak Tower, with its iconic wok-like top, offers enough shops to make for many happy hours of great dining, leisurely shopping and souvenir hunting. As if anyone needed something more than a fantastic skyline view up there. But even we did a bit of treasure hunting and we found a beautiful lamp for our living room, hidden under all the tourist kitsch.
SOHO If you find yourself in Hong Kong on a Saturday night, SoHo is the place to head for if you’re feeling particularly fashionable. SoHo – meaning South of Hollywood Road – has some of the coolest bars and restaurants, as well as some of the most interesting art galleries and antique shops, on the island. Explore the “happening” neighborhoods of Staunton Street and Elgin Street, where most of the weekend action can be found. In fact, if you get into a taxi for SoHo, you’re likely to get dropped off around here. SoHo is also home to The Takeout Comedy Club, Asia’s first full-time comedy club. Few spare evenings are better spent than over a few laughs here. From SoHo, it’s just a few more minutes up the hill to Mid-Levels, among the most desirable real estate in Hong Kong. This is where most expatriates want to live if they’re young and upwardly mobile. Work and the party scene are literally minutes away and you get to wake up to a million-dollar view every morning if you’re lucky enough
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Stanley Market
to snag a flat on the pricier side of the buildings. From there, the rules of residence follow the laws of gravity: the higher you get in the food chain, the more vertical you go in terms of neighborhood. Obviously, the best addresses are right on the ridges of the Peak, with its lush greenery and almost unnerving quiet. The nearest 24-hour store is a serious drive down, but if you live on the Peak itself, you probably have a phalanx of staff and never run out of supplies. You might even have a helicopter to get you to work. But back to SoHo, which is closer to most people’s reality and equally interesting. Like much of Hong Kong, this district treads a precarious balance between preserving the Chinese and colonial culture that shaped it, and recent modern developments. The famous Central-Mid Levels Escalator, the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator, is a quintessential symbol of modernity which has encroached on the residential neighborhood but brought with it the bars, cafes and boutiques – and also the crowds.
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HONG KONG SPECIAL Those who don’t fancy a ride on anything mechanical can still discover a different side to Hong Kong on foot. The contrast between the past and present, which is covered by the Sun Yat-Sen Historical Trail, takes visitors off the typical tourist track and makes for great sightseeing. Signposts along the trail that weaves its way around Central and the Western area of Hong Kong point out 16 landmarks of historical interest including the former French Mission Building and the University of Hong Kong. Some of the sights have had to give way to the construction rush, and even Dr. Sun Yat-Sen’s Museum is easy to miss, now surrounded by modern apartment blocks. But nothing can really remain the same in this busy metropolis. Indeed, Hong Kong is forever changing but always memorable. The Travelife Magazine team wishes to thank the Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) for their kind cooperation. n
Rickshaws in Central
Old town pillars in Stanley
Central District as seen from the Star Ferry
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HONG KONG SPECIAL
NAVIGATE YOURSELF
HONG KONG
NEED TO KNOW Hong Kong was once occupied by the British. It was only in 1997 that China regained control of Hong Kong resulting in “one country, two systems.” Hong Kong is also the world’s third busiest ports after Shanghai and Singapore.
Shui Wei
Tai Po Yuen Long
Tuen Mun
Sai Kung Peninsula
HONG KONG Tsuen Wan
Sha Tin
Kowloon
TRAVELER’S CHECKLIST Hong Kong does not require a visa for Philippine tourists staying less than 14 days.
Tung Chung
Lantau Island
Tsueng Kwan
Central
Hong Kong Island
CURRENT EXCHANGE RATE: 1 US$ = 7.7676 Hong Kong Dollar TIME DIFFERENCE: There’s no time difference between Hong Kong and the Philippines. PHILIPPINE CONSULATE IN HONG KONG 14/F United Ctr, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong Tel no. (852) 2823-8500 / 2823-8501 Fax no. (852) 2866-9885 / 2866-8559
HOW TO GET THERE Philippine Airlines and Cathay Pacific have daily direct flights from Manila.
WHEN TO GO Hong Kong has hot, humid summers and cool, dry winters. Winter, which usually lasts from December to March, is the best time to go. March and April are also pleasant months to travel, while May to September can occasionally be rainy.
WHERE TO STAY MANDARIN ORIENTAL HONG KONG This Hong Kong institution offers sleek and lavish Oriental-inspired interiors and a fantastic harbor view from many rooms. It’s also the only hotel in the world to house three Michelin-star restaurants. www.mandarinoriental.com W HOTEL HONG KONG This lavishly chic hotel creates playful displays with colorful lights in every corner. It’s also conveniently located for shoppers as it’s just next to the Elements shopping mall and only five minutes away from Central. www.starwoodhotels.com
UPPER HOUSE The interiors of Hong Kong’s most luxurious boutique hotel were created by one of the Asia’s hottest young designers using natural materials and intriguing modern artworks. Located just upwards from Queensway, this is an oasis of calm in a frenetic neighborhood. www.upperhouse.com HULLET HOUSE The historical Marine Police Headquarters along Canton Road in Kowloon has been turned into a stylish heritage hotel with luxurious rooms, five good restaurants and service that harks back to another more gracious era. www.hulletthouse.com
THINGS TO DO SHOP. Hong Kong is home to some of the most impressive malls in the world. High-end shops and chic boutiques can be found all over Central district, while it’s gadgets galore at Fortress outlets. For more mainstream and one-off shops there’s always the Festival Walk and Times Square. See our Outlet Shopping box as well.
HONG KONG SPECIAL HONG KONG SPECIAL VISIT THE PEAK. Riding the Peak Tram is the best way up Victoria Peak. At the top, various attractions like the famous Madame Tussauds, Peak Explorer Motion Simulator and Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Odditorium! await tourists. It also has a large viewing deck to see Hong Kong’s skyscrapers, Victoria’s Harbour, Central and its surrounding islands. ENJOY THE LIGHTSHOW. The Symphony of Lights along Victoria Harbour has been named the “World’s Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show” by the Guinness Book of World Records. Make sure you’re at the harbor when it starts at 8 pm every evening.
FOOD TRIPPING
Golden Crab with Ocean Treasure
2011 Best of the Best Culinary Awards – Gold with Distinction Canton Room at the Gloucester Luk Kwok Hong Kong Hotel www.gloucesterlukkwok.com
JESSICA’S HONG KONG Up-and-coming model Jessica Yang shuttles between Manila and Hong Kong for modeling projects. We ask her for the low-down on one of her favorite cities. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT HONG KONG? I love the convenience and the fact that I can hit the beach, go for a hike or bike riding, enjoy a fancy afternoon tea after shopping, or visit local neighborhoods anytime because its just so easy to move around by public transportation. Plus it’s so foreigner-friendly. No hassles at all. To me, this is easy living. WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE PLACES? I love the SOHO area in Central where you can find lots of small shops, restaurants, bars and cafes with different tastes and styles. My favorite shop in SOHO is Beatniks, a tiny secondhand shop on Graham Street that has really amazing vintage dresses, tops, and sunglasses. Nearby in Lan Kwai Fong, there’s also a Russian bar called Balalaika where you can drink vodka and enjoy traditional Russian dishes in a room that’s maintained at a temperature of -20°C. You can borrow a fur coat if you’re not prepared for the cold. Beatniks, Tel (852) 2881-7153 Balalaika, Tel (852) 3579-2929 I also love the traditional temples and the beautiful parks like Hong Kong Park or Kowloon Park in the middle of such a glamorous city. It calms my soul and mind. Finally, I really like the Lam Tsuen wishing tree at Tai Po market, near Tin Hau Temple. It’s pretty far, in the New Territories, but it has a beautiful story. People go there to make wishes and be hopeful.
Steamed Winter Melon Pearl with Mushroom
2011 Best of the Best Culinary Awards – Gold with Distinction Sportful Garden Restaurant Tel. (852) 2770-8228
WHERE’S THE MOST ROMANTIC PLACE YOU’VE EVER BEEN? It’s a restaurant called Sevva in Central District. I love the music and the whole vibe. It’s very relaxing and they have the best afternoon tea in Hong Kong, as far as I’m concerned. It’s also perfect for evenings because the view of Hong Kong shining and sparkling at night is just phenomenal. www.sevva.hk
Sauteed Bell Pepper, Medlar and Preserved Meat Served in Crispy Rice Cone 2011 Best of the Best Culinary Awards – Gold Award New Shanghai Tel. (852) 2582-7332
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