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Photographed by Bryan Arevalo Styled by Ceia Ylagan and Jean Mangonon Modeled by Suci Eily Lyonna Special thanks to Sabah Tourism Board and Cebu Pacific Orange dress, Religioso; cream pumps, Virtual Mae
T
he TRAVELIFE team recently escaped to Kota Kinabalu. Spoiled with picturesque sunsets and days of sunshine throughout the year, this trip unearthed our fascination for its forest ranges and conservation areas. The capital of Sabah, surrounded by islands, begets tourists for its rich environment, preserved ethnicity, and delicate hums of modernity. Its most popular attraction, Mount Kinabalu, is Southeast Asia’s highest and grandest peak. At 4,095 meters, Mount Kinabalu is a UNESCO World Heritage site. KK, as we had grown to call it, radiates with its blend of nature and culture.
SUNSET HUES Ten minutes away from the Kota Kinabalu International Airport is Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort and Spa. It’s a lavishly luxurious resort that combines international sophistication with Borneo’s heritage. Tanjung Aru’s Sunset Bar is the best spot to witness KK’s famous sunset, which drowns the ocean horizon in purple, pink, orange, and yellow hues. Sheer white long-sleeved button-down top and bright blue-and-pink wide leg pants, Religioso. Hot pink pumps, Virtual Mae, virtualmae.multiply.com.
REUNION OF TRIBES Nestled among verdant, towering trees and greenery, the Mari-Mari Cultural Village imbibes unity in diversity. There are over 32 tribal groups in Sabah, and this community preserves these indigenous tribes’ traditions, architecture, and rituals. Sabahan heritage comes alive here and lives on for the future generations to treasure. Lavender tank and peach long skirt, Religioso. Cream pumps, Virtual Mae.
A LUXURIOUS REFUGE 45 minutes away from Kota Kinabalu is ShangriLa’s Rasa Ria Resort. This 400-acre resort boasts of an award-winning 18-hole golf course, a wide stretch of beach with extensive water sports facilities, and tranquil surroundings that promise a relaxing and indulgent experience. One of the highlights of a stay here is a visit to the Rasa Ria Nature Reserve which is home to orphaned orangutans until they mature. Green dress, Pia Perey, www.piagladysperey.net. Cream pumps, Virtual Mae.
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KOTA KINABALU
KOTA KINABALU
TAMED BY THE WILD
The TRAVELIFE team visited laid-back Kota Kinabalu to explore its natural wonders
O
ne can go about traveling in two ways: you can make plans and try to stick to these, or you can simply throw caution to the wind and see where the road leads you. On a recent trip to Kota Kinabalu, the TRAVELIFE team was expecting a fairly relaxed, albeit predictable trip. After all, KK (as many locals fondly call it) is just 90 minutes away from Manila, and with a similar Malay heritage. But we were happily surprised. Kota Kinabalu is a nature-lover’s haven hidden in a quiet, unassuming locale.
THE GRANDNESS OF NATURE Traversing the quiet, almost traffic-less streets of Kota Kinabalu, we quickly sensed just how relaxed it was. There was no frenetic rushing about or panicked frenzy of work. Time literally slowed down, enough for us to appreciate the minute details around us. We passed fields and houses on our way to see Mount Kinabalu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the highest peak in Borneo. At 4,095 meters, and with its geology and topography, it’s the perfect home for a diverse range of flora and fauna. Perhaps its most infamous floral resident is the Rafflesia, a five-petaled parasitic flower that grows as large as 40 inches in diameter and weighs roughly 12 kilograms. Unfortunately, during our visit, the rafflesia was not in bloom. It takes 15 months for this flower to bud but it only blooms for seven days.
We were eager to see the peak up close, but we weren’t so lucky. When we reached the Kinabalu National Park, the rain poured down and thick fog surrounded our van. It normally takes two days to climb Mount Kinabalu; and now, it was impossible to even partially hike up the trail. Nevertheless, we were left speechless by its beauty and grandness. HOLIDAYS 2012
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Photos by Bryan Arevalo
The bright sun hit Mount Kinabalu’s sharp peak, while thick clouds threatened to swallow it, in a game of hide-and-seek, although it’s really impossible to overcome this grand and majestic peak.
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ON YOUR TRAVEL LIST
Make time to see these spots on your visit to KK KINABALU PARK
Photo by David Kirkland
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KOTA KINABALU
THE KING OF THE FOREST As soon as the weather cleared, we set off for Poring Hot Springs where we were to trek up a hill to get to the Poring Tree Canopy Walkway 43 meters above ground. We started climbing the makeshift steps, walking through winding paths that wove into the rainforest. While the climb was neither too high nor too steep, but the steps were oftentimes muddy and slippery. After about 20 minutes, we finally reached the first platform that led to the tree canopy.
The main attraction of Kinabalu Park, Malaysia’s first world heritage site, is Mount Kinabalu, Borneo’s highest peak. Adventurers can scale the peak, while nature lovers can simply admire Kinabalu Park’s fauna and flora. It has over one hundred mammal species, 326 bird species, 850 butterfly species, and over 5,000 plant species. www.sabahparks.org.my
MARI-MARI CULTURAL VILLAGE Just a 25-minute drive from the city, Mari-mari Cultural Village brings you back to ancient Borneo. Visit the traditional homes of Sabahan ethnic communities and learn how each tribe lived. See their ethnic dress, make your own traditional Kadazan-Dusun meal, and be entertained by tribal dances. www.sabahtourism.com
PORING HOT SPRINGS WITH TREE-TOP CANOPY WALK Swing by Poring Hot Springs for an invigorating experience. Pamper yourself at the site’s natural hot sulphur springs and trek up the hill towards the tree-top canopy walkway 43 meters high. Other must visit areas in the park are the Poring Orchid Conservation Centre and Rafflesia flower site. www.sabahparks.org.my
RASA RIA NATURE AND ORANGUTAN RESERVE Rasa Ria Nature and Orangutan Reserve is a place for families and friends to bond, have fun, and learn about nature awareness. Situated within the luxurious Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort, the reserve is home to Borneo’s baby orangutans, as well as to jungle and spot wild animals such as bear cats, mouse deer, macaque monkeys, squirrels, porcupines, monitor lizards, and birds. www.shangri-la.com/ kotakinabalu/rasariaresort
The platforms leading from one tree canopy to another were built around the trunk of the Menggaris and Seraya trees, trees that are hundreds of years old, very tall and thick in berth. The Menggaris tree is the tallest tree in Borneo, and its name means “king of the forest.” Indeed, it towered over the rest of the forest, guarding the foliage and creatures beneath it. From the platform, we saw the surrounding Kinabalu mountains and a beautiful stream and waterfall. We were 43 meters high and the view was amazing! There we were casually walking from one tree to the next, on narrow planks of wood, supported by metals rods, netting and hanging cables. The total length of the canopy walkway was 157 meters. It was exciting, yet we weren’t afraid at all, even though the hanging walks were bouncy and uneven. We were exhilarated by the age-old trees and the greenery beneath us.
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LIVE LIKE A LOCAL
Experience life like a true local at this cozy, family-owned inn nestled within Kinabalu Park. The fresh air and sounds of the nearby stream provide a truly relaxing ambience, complemented by delicious homecooked Malaysian dinners with the host family. www.slagonhomestay.com
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KOTA KINABALU
PRIDE LANDS To get to know Sabahan culture, we visited the Mari-Mari Cultural Village, just a few minutes’ drive from the city center. Hidden away amidst towering ancient trees, lush greenery and blooming environs, this open-air cultural theme park houses various ethnic tribes and encompasses a colorful cultural diversity, that also showcases the traditional Sabahan livelihoods. At the house of the Dusun, for example, the largest tribe in Sabah, visitors learn how to make tapai (Sabahan rice wine) and cook traditional dishes using bamboo. A simple dish of pork, onions, garlic, and ginger is inserted into a bamboo and cooked atop a hot bed of coal. The tribesmen at the Rungus longhouse demonstrated the traditional way of starting a fire using bamboo and a sharp blade, as well as rope and vest-making; while the Lundayeh tribe showed us their truly unique home—an entire house made out of tree barks. Meanwhile, at the Bajau house, we were presented with the sweet and crispy-fried jala partnered with pandan juice. Finally, at the Murut longhouse, the chief and his headhunter warriors showed us how to make blowpipes and tobacco, and even gave us a traditional Sabahan tattoo art as memorabilia. Our visit ended with a cultural show that comprehensively covered the vibrant tribal culture in Sabah, with various tribe members performing different ethnic dances including the magunatip (bamboo dance) and the anggalang. There are reportedly at least 32 tribal groups in Sabah, and each Sabahan, up to this day, knows to which tribe he or she belongs to. Indeed, this reveals their pride for their culture and heritage.
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FACE-TO-FACE WITH THE WILD MAN OF BORNEO In spite of having seen and experienced so many things on our visit, we still needed to meet the orangutans, KK’s most playful inhabitants. Orangutans are believed to be the closest relatives of humans in the animal world. Native to Indonesia and Malaysia, they’re known to have the lifespan of a middle-aged person. Though highly intelligent, they prefer to be solitary, although female orangutans are known to bond strongly with their offspring. The Shangri-La Rasa Ria Nature Reserve is a 64-acre habitat for young orangutans found on Sandakan Island. These orangutans are usually orphaned because poachers on the island kill off their mothers to get to the baby orangutans who are then later sold off as pets. Once rescued, the baby orangutans are taken to the reserve for feeding, nurturing, and care until they are around six years old. When they have learned to fend for themselves, they are sent back to Sandakan Island to live in the wild. There are two feeding platforms on the reserve which make it easy for the rangers to feed the orangutans and for guests to view them. Interaction between the guests and the orangutans are highly discouraged because the orangutans can easily get attached to
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humans, making it more difficult for them to go back to living in the wild. We were quite content to watch these agile, red-haired creatures swinging from branch to branch from a distance. But luckily, one of the orangutans swiftly swung down the branches close to the feeding platform, less than a foot away. He stared at us with curious, wide eyes, while we yearned to say hello and stroke his fur. We were left speechless and charmed by that face-to-face encounter with the wild man of Borneo. But in reality he was far from wild— just a young, orphaned child looking for new friends.
We left the reserve with a renewed respect for one of Mother Earth’s children, and a deeper awareness of other inhabitants of this earth. We share this land with other creatures, and with that, we are responsible for caring for this planet we humans so selfishly call home. Kota Kinabalu reopened our eyes to nature’s bounty and its gifts that we much too often take for granted. In the midst of that grand peak that touched the clouds, where ancient trees seemingly grazed the blue sky, and where gentle creatures lived hidden in the forest, we are awakened by the sheer beauty of life. n
MUSEUM MOMENTS
TRAVELIFE recommends three museums one must visit in Kota Kinabalu SABAH STATE MUSEUM KOTA KINABALU Sabah State Museum Kota Kinabalu aims to promote Sabah’s unique heritage. It features galleries on archaeology and natural history, ceramics, weaponry, and traditional musical instruments, among others. It also has an art gallery, a zoo, and a heritage village where one can see traditional houses and watch cultural performances by Sabah’s many indigenous groups. SABAH ISLAMIC CIVILIZATION MUSEUM Learn about Islam in Sabah at this museum along Jalan Menteri. Its six galleries feature Islamic history in Sabah and Malaysia, Islamic civilization, and the history of Muhammad. Notable artifacts to watch out for are Muhammad’s sword, embroidered calligraphy of verses from the Koran, and a wooden rehal from Kashmir. Jalan Menteri, off Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, Kota Kinabalu SABAH ETHNOBOTANICAL HERITAGE MUSEUM Also located within the Sabah Museum complex is the Sabah Museum Ehtnobotanic Gardens. This 16.96-hectare museum introduces Sabah’s natural forest resources, including medicinal, ornamental, and ritual ceremonial plants. Bukit Istana Lama, Kota Kinabalu www.museum.sabah.gov.my
HEAD OVER HEELS
Photo by Melissa Ewot
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KOTA KINABALU
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Literally turn your world upside-down in this one-of-a-kind house called Rumah Terbalik in Tuaran, 34 km north of Kota Kinabalu. The homeowner, Alexander Yee, is a passionate environmentalist who believes that unguarded and unsupervised development will affect the environment, hence, “turning the world upside down.” The whole house’s exterior and interior have been flipped—with the ceiling as the floor and the furnishings located above your head. Sabahan décor is prominent around the house while the actual house follows Dusun architecture. www.upsidedownhouse.com.my
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KOTA KINABALU
SABAH’S BEST
Bring home these souvenirs from KK PEARLS Fresh water pearls from Borneo Island are usually inexpensive compared to those from other countries, yet the quality is just as good or even better. Jewelry pieces such as necklaces, earrings, and rings are offered in many stores in Kota Kinabalu. Uniquely designed and handmade, Sabah pearls come in different colors such as pink, white, and rare black/purplish color.
STOP AND SHOP
The best places for souvenir shopping in Kota Kinabalu KADAIKU SABAH SOUVENIRS AND HANDICRAFTS Kadaiku (or locally translated as “my shop”) is a souvenir shop located in downtown KK. It offers a vast collection of authentic traditional handicrafts, personalized souvenirs such as hand-woven Kain Dastar Bags, tracks of Sabah’s best-known musical talents, and quality local food products. Lot 4 & 5, G/F Block L, Sinsuran Complex GAYA STREET MARKET Shop like a local at this open-air bazaar that offers modern and traditional clothing, fruits, vegetables and flowers, local handicrafts, antiques and souvenirs, medicinal plants and herbs, and even pets. Don’t miss the local delicacies and snacks offered here! This market is open only on Sundays from 6:30 AM to 1:00 PM. Gaya Street (formerly Bond Street)
KOTA KINABALU HANDICRAFT MARKET Bargain-hunters will love this market located at Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. Here you can find seashell crafts, bamboo goods, pearls and semi-precious gems, and textiles at reasonable prices. Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens (near the Waterfront) SABAH BORNEO TRADING POST For more discerning and discriminating shoppers, Sabah Borneo Trading Post is a shopping haven for unique and precious finds. An assortment of brass and tin products created by local artists can be found here, along with delicately handcrafted wood products. The store’s mascot, Borneo Bob, is a fitting symbol of the locale’s mythologies, arts and crafts, and products. www.borneotradingpost.com
HANDICRAFTS Over 32 different ethnic entities in Sabah have their own specialized handicrafts. With unique patterns and weavings, Sabah handicrafts are made from bamboo, rattan, bark, tin and brass. Personally woven and made by the local people, these handicrafts found in the local markets range from home décor and furnishings to useful household items such as baskets, trays, and more. TEA Sabah tea is well loved not only in Malaysia but also in other parts of the world for its freshness and quality. Grown on the foothills of Mount Kinabalu, these teas are pesticide-free and 100% organic. They’re often flavored with various herbs such as lemongrass, pandan, or ginger. COFFEE Another all–time favorite souvenir from KK is tenom coffee. This coffee is made from Robusta beans planted mainly in the east coast of Sabah in Tenom. It is commonly prepared by roasting Tenom Robusta beans over a wood fire, and then grinding these beans to a fine powder, resulting in a fullbodied, aromatic brew.
BACKPACK THROUGH NORTHERN MINDANAO WITH CEBU PAC
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n Northern Mindanao, adventures await those who thirst for travel and love nature. Through Cebu Pacific (CEB), the country’s largest airline, and its trademark lowest fares, there are more opportunities to explore Northern Mindanao. The major jump-off point for Northern Mindanao is Cagayan de Oro. Home to intense whitewater rafting action, breathtaking canopy walks, and bustling night life, Cagayan de Oro is accessible through CEB’s direct flights from Manila, Cebu, Davao, Bacolod, Iloilo or Zamboanga. From Cagayan de Oro, backpackers can also travel 1.5 hours to Bukidnon, where daredevils can explore the Sumalsag cave, the longest cave in Northern Mindanao known for its exciting underwater adventure exit. Travelers can also revel at the powerful Maria Cristina Falls, the stunning Tinago Falls and the serene Mimbalot Falls in neighboring Iligan, Lanao del Norte.
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Finally, wandering Juans can get rest and relaxation in Camiguin Island. The underwater cemetery is an attraction unique to the island, as well as the oft-visited White Sandbar. There is also the majestic Mount Hibok-Hibok, as well as numerous falls, springs and lagoons. Just hop on the bus heading to Balingoan Port for a two-hour journey to Cagayan de Oro, get off at the Agora Market terminal and take the two-hour ferry ride to Camiguin Island. So get ready to pack your bags and jumpstart your fun adventure now! www.cebupacificair.com
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NAVIGATE YOURSELF
Kota Kinabalu
NEED TO KNOW Kota Kinabalu, the state capital of Sabah, Malaysia, was formerly known as Jesselton during the British colonial rule in the late 1800s until 1963. Popularly known as the home of Malaysia’s first world heritage site, Mount Kinabalu and Kinabalu Park, this destination is a favorite for adventurers and nature lovers. TRAVELER’S CHECKLIST Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia requires no visa for Philippine tourists. CURRENT EXCHANGE RATE 1US$ = 3.05 Malaysia Ringgits TIME DIFFERENCE There is no time difference between Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia and the Philippines. PHILIPPINE EMBASSY IN MALAYSIA No. 1 Jalan Changkat Kia Peng, 50450 Kuala Lumpur. Tel (60) (3) 2148-4233 / 2148-4654 / 2148-9989
WHEN TO GO Kota Kinabalu has a high level of humidity due to a constant rainfall in the region. The best time to visit Kota Kinabalu is from January to March, when the climate is cool and dry for a more comfortable sightseeing and outdoor activities.
WHERE TO STAY LUXURY
SHANGRI-LA TANJUNG ARU RESORT With Borneo’s rich cultural heritageinspired suites, this five-star resort is a tropical paradise just a few minutes away from the city. Wake up to a view of Mount Kinabalu or the South China Sea from your room decorated with a local flair. Get a truly Asian pampering at CHI, The Spa or enjoy Kota Kinabalu’s purple-pink sunset while sipping cocktails at Sunset Bar. www.shangri-la.com/kotakinabalu/ tanjungaruresort
SHANGRI-LA RASA RIA RESORT A prime beachfront property located along Pantai Dalit Beach, a 45-minute drive away from the city, this resort boasts of a different kind of paradise in Kota Kinabalu. Its main highlight is the Rasa Ria Nature Reserve which is home to orangutans and other plant and animal species endemic to Sabah. A championship golf course set against the Kinabalu mountains and a broad selection of water sports and sea activities are also offered here. www.shangri-la.com/ kotakinabalu/rasariaresort
GAYA ISLAND RESORT For those looking for an island getaway, this resort is the perfect choice as it is only a 20-minute boat ride away from the mainland. Each suite and villa uses local textiles and materials that highlight Sabah’s rich natural environment. The contemporary and elegantly designed villas offer views of tropical rainforests and mangrove swamps. www.gayaislandresort.com
VALUE
THE JESSELTON HOTEL An historic hotel located at the heart of KK’s business and financial center. Although built in the 1960’s, this colonial hotel has been updated to reflect a more modern yet just as cozy interiors perfectly suited for a stay at this laid-back city. It is also just a few steps away from Gaya Street where a weekly Sunday market takes place, a row of bak kuh teh restaurants, and Sabah Tourism Board’s office. www.jesseltonhotel.com
ZARA’S BOUTIQUE HOTEL Located just five minutes away from Kota Kinabalu Airport at Harbour City, this boutique hotel offers spacious and comfortable lodgings paired with KK’s beautiful ocean or mountain views. This is an ideal hotel for those looking for a taste of KK as it is surrounded by restaurants offering a variety of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cuisines. It is walking distance from Sutera Harbour, one of KK’s popular golf courses. zarasboutiquehotel.com
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HOLIDAYS 2012