Scandinavian Brewers Review 20014, 3

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SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS REVIEW

DECEMBER 2014 . VOL 73

IN THIS ISSUE: AN OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWING IN SCANDINAVIA, INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES, 50 ACHIEVEMENTS IN BREWING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY – PART TWO, CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER, 25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW, BEER LOVERS GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL AND MUCH MORE…

I S SN 1 6 0 3 -4 6 3 5

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CONTENTS CONTENTS ARTICLE

6 EDI T ORIA L

A N OU T LOOK FOR CR AF T BRE WING IN SCA NDIN AVIA

INVES T MEN T S IN NE W BRE WHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBRE WERIES PAR T T HREE OF A SERIES OF AR T ICLES BY UWE LEIBFACHER

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AU T OMAT IC YE AS T PI T CHING CON T ROL A ND BEER QUALI T Y A N OVERVIE W OF BASIC ISSUES

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50 ACHIE VEMEN T S IN BRE WING SCIENCE A ND T ECHNOLOGY IN 350 YE ARS – PAR T 2 1930S T O OUR T IMES

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CONFERENCE ON ‘NORDIC BEER’

REPOR T FROM T HE FIRS T-E VER CONFERENCE ON ‘NORDIC BEER’

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25 BRE WERIES YOU SHOULD K NOW RE AD T HE FIRS T PAR T OF T HE IN T ERES T ING LIS T

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BASIC QUALI T Y MA N AGEMEN T – MASHING MASH SYS T EMS A ND VESSELS: A BRIEF RE VIE W – PAR T 3

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BEER LOVERS GAT HERED FOR GRE AT A MERICA N BEER FES T IVAL RE AD ABOU T T HE BIGGES T BEER CELEBR AT ION ON E AR T H

3 4

ORGA NIC MALT S – DIFFEREN T FROM CONVEN T ION AL? S T UDY OF FINNISH MALT ING BARLE YS

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DU T CH L AGER S T YLES 1870 - 1960 T HE HIS T ORY OF DU T CH L AGER CON T INUES – RE AD PAR T 2 OF RON PAT T INSON’S AR T ICLE

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sCAnDinAViAn BREWERs REViEW

DECEMBER 2014 . VOL 73

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in THis issUE: An OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWinG in sCAnDinAViA, inVEsTMEnTs in nEW BREWHOUsEs in sWEDisH MiCROBREWERiEs, 50 ACHiEVEMEnTs in BREWinG sCiEnCE AnD TECHnOLOGY – PART TWO, COnFEREnCE On nORDiC BEER, 25 BREWERiEs YOU sHOULD KnOW, BEER LOVERs GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERiCAn BEER FEsTiVAL AnD MUCH MORE…

Scandinavian Brewers' Review December – Volume 73, no. 3 Cover photo: Nils Oscar - Kaspar Schulz brewhouse

issn 1603-4635 SBR201403_Forside.indd 1

03/12/14 13.09

Membership journal of: The Danish Brewers' Guild The Swedish Brewers' Guild The Norwegian Brewers' Guild Published every even month Minimum printing: 1.000 copies Publisher and distribution: Dansk Brygmester Forening (Danish Brewmasters' Guild) Benny Poulsen benny.poulsen.fct@carlsberg.dk Ny Carlsberg Vej 100 DK-1799 Copenhagen V Tel.: +45 3327 4556

Subscription: Per year, excluding VAT: Denmark €40, Europe €51, rest of world €61,50 E-mail: benny.poulsen.fct@carlsberg.dk Printed by: PE Offset A/S Tømrervej 9 DK-6800 Varde Tel.: +45 7695 1717 www.peoffset.dk

Advertisement sales and material: Rosendahls Mediaservice A/S Herstedvang 10 B DK-2620 Albertslund www.rosendahls.dk Tel.: +45 7610 1136 E-mail: pb@rosendahls.dk Head Consultant: Account Manager Peter Brandi

Editorial board: Tuen-media as, Åbogade 40 DK-8200 Aarhus N www.tuen.dk Tel.: +45 8621 3000 E-mail: sbr@tuen.dk

Design: Jakob Guldbrandt

Editor-in-chief: Andres Tue Møller

National contact persons: Roger Løe (NO) E-mail: roger.loe@ringnes.no

Sub-editor: Louise Karlsen Proofreader: Joel Southern

Technical editor: Anders Kissmeyer E-mail: anders@kissmeyer.dk

Saara Pöyri (FI) E-mail: saara.poyri@sff.fi Uwe Leibfacher (SE) E-mail: leibfacher.uwe@telia.com

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

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EDITORIAL

AN OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWING IN SCANDINAVIA ANDERS KISSMEYER, TECHNICAL EDITOR, E-MAIL: ANDERS@KISSMEYER.DK

net result on their bottom lines has increased dramatically over the past couple of years – a few of them posting net gains of more than 5 million DKK for 2013. The share that Danish craft beer had of the total beer market in 2013 was, according to the Danish Brewers’ Association, 5.9%, and the share of imported beers was 7.8%. So a total of 13.7%, even though counting all the imports as craft is not justifiable for reasons explained below. But, if around a third of the imports are counted as craft, we still reach a very encouraging total of 8.5% for craft in Denmark.

The scene is vibrant in all our countries, with smaller and larger beer festivals popping up everywhere; the social media in all our countries are afloat with beer blogs and brewery-consumer communication. The number of beer bars with an exorbitant choice of both local and imported is growing all over our region.

In Denmark and Copenhagen, in particular, the number is exploding these years, and one of the latest newcomers on the scene, Taphouse, offers a staggering 61 draft beer taps – all craft Welcome to the 2014 ‘Craft Brewing Theme Issue’ of the

beer!

Scandinavian Brewers’ Review! It is a pleasure to start such an issue with the observation that craft beer has a position in our

The success of craft beer in Scandinavia and the Nordic region is,

region that is stronger than ever. Everything I hear from our

as I’m sure most of you readers are aware of, not a phenomenon

neighbouring countries is that the ‘revolution’ is raging in their

isolated to our region. In the US, the share of local craft is racing

countries, and they very politely say that Norway, Iceland and

towards the 10% mark – craft growth in 2013 was 17.2% –

Sweden are approximately 10-15 years behind the Danish craft

based on volume, and the number of breweries is skyrocketing

beer revolution of the past and this decade. And the statistics will

to way over 3,400 this year, bringing the number of them to a

support that conclusion. Do the state monopolies on the sale of

level not seen since the mid-1800s. At the recent BrauBeviale in

regular and higher-strength beers and the ban on advertising have

Nuremberg, the display of equipment offered to the craft segment

anything to do with this? Both the market shares of local craft

was almost as dominant as the corresponding ‘stuff ’ for the big

beer and the number of breweries are still far behind the situation

breweries, reflecting where the growth and the investments are to

in Denmark.

be found these days. On a recent trip to Bavaria, the Hallertau to be exact, I had the pleasure of drinking excellent, locally-brewed

I do not have precise statistical data for the other countries, but

IPAs and Pale Ales. Brewed with local hops, of course, but the

I note that, in Denmark, the number of breweries (including

mere fact that these beer types are now brewed in Bavaria –

so-called gypsy brewers that only have a brand and no physical

probably the most ‘beer conservative’ region in the whole world

brewery) today stands at around 150 – clearly an all-time high

– speaks a very clear language.

and still an undisputed world record! So the public myth, fuelled by articles in the media in past years on the economic hardship

And in our region, we are at the forefront in developing our own,

and the ensuing abundant closures and bankruptcies in the

local beer styles and products as expressed through the release of

craft segment, can be dismissed entirely. A recent thorough

more and more such beers and as exemplified by the success of

background article in the Danish daily newspaper Berlingske

the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement. The recent conference on ‘Nordic

showed that the number of Danish craft breweries with a positive

Beer’ that took place in Korsør, Denmark, in early November

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SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

AN OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWING IN SCANDINAVIA

(covered by a specific article in this issue of the SBR) was an

In Norway, Finland, Iceland and Sweden, the strangling and

overwhelming statement about the momentum of this movement.

apparently futile limitations on communication to the public by brewers, the state monopolies and the exorbitant beer

So is everything rosy and the future without challenges? No, of

taxes also represent battlefields on which our victory is not

course not! The craft segment in the Nordic region still faces

right around the corner; in order to prevail, it will demand

plenty of these. In Denmark, we see an increasing competition

the joining of all good forces. I used the word ‘futile’ about the

orchestrated by the major supermarket chains successfully

effect of the over-restrictive alcohol policies in the other Nordic

exploiting the interest in craft by importing loads of cheap beer

countries, and to those that find this rather opinionated, I will

from the Czech Republic and Germany and placing these on the

only refer to the data published in October showing that the

shelves next to ‘real’ craft beer, thus tempting the curious but still

per capita total alcohol consumption in Sweden is now higher

price-conscious consumers by indirectly promising them a craft

than in Denmark – the country often portrayed as ‘Sodom and

experience at next to no cost. This obviously puts pressure on the

Gomorra’ by prohibitionist politicians in our neighbouring

prices, and, at least in Denmark, we have to take a close look at

countries. So, why not finish this editorial with a typical Anders

costs and pricing, as it is not a coincidence that, in America, the

Kissmeyer provocative statement: Maybe if the politicians in

price ratio between craft and ‘regular’ is generally about 1.5 to 1,

Norway, Iceland, Sweden and Finland allowed craft brewers to

whereas it in Denmark is between 3-4 to 1 for local quality craft

communicate freely with their consumers – and perhaps even

beer. The difficulties involved with distribution are still a huge

allowed the consumers to buy beer directly at the brewery when

‘bump on the road’, as the craft distribution business has not, by

they visit? – this would help nudge a shift from binge drinking

any means, grown in numbers and professionalism at the rate that

of large quantities of cheap alcoholic beverages towards a more

the brewing side of the segment has. At the most basic level, we

limited consumption of flavourful and satisfying craft beer.

still have a challenge in catching the attention of the majority of the ‘regular’ beer consumers, who still think that craft beer is too

We have come a long way, we are still gathering speed and

expensive. It will take a long, hard pull to convince these people

momentum, but we still have a long way to go!

that beer is more than a cheap commodity and that, if you spend the extra money, you get more than your money’s worth in added

Drop me a line or two to let me know your views at

value. In our struggle to achieve this, we desperately need the

anders@kissmeyer.dk.

support of the culinary world. But as I outlined in some detail in a previous editorial in the SBR, although we talk a lot about this, we

Anders Kissmeyer

have not come very far yet.

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

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ARTICLE

INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES PART 3

U W E L E I B FA C H E R , E - M A I L : L E I B FA C H E R . U W E @ T E L I A . C O M

Back in 2012, we began a series of articles by our good friend Uwe Leibfacher on some of the more interesting projects in Sweden, where there currently is a lot of growth and optimism in the craft beer business, leading to significant capacity expansions at many of the breweries. Uwe is, in his capacity as independent consultant on many of these projects, one of the persons closest to this development. So we are happy to bring the latest of his articles –this time on the Nils Oscar expansion.

INTRODUCTION

company is responsible for cultivation, malting, brewing and

The Swedish microbrewery scene experienced a fast growth in

distilling, all under one roof – and under one brand!

the last decade. Several companies faced capacity problems that made it necessary to exchange their brewhouse equipment for

Nils Oscar Sundberg, who is depicted in the well-known

bigger equipment. As a result, some more new brewhouses have

brand, was the genuine article. He was both the grandfather of

been/will be installed in Sweden in 2014 and 2015. The different

and the childhood idol of Karl-David Sundberg, the current

breweries chose different approaches to plan and to realize their

owner of the Nils Oscar Company, having worked as a farmer

investments and even different suppliers. We have already met

both in the US and in Sweden. Nils Oscar personifies the

Sigtuna Brygghus and Dugges Ale- & Porterbryggeri in 2012 and

genuine values that Nils Oscar Company products stand for in

heard about their experiences. The third company to visit is Nils

every aspect.

Oscar Company AB, which is situated in Nyköping.

In 2006, ten years after the start at Kungsholmen in BACKGROUND

Stockholm, the brewery moved to Nyköping and enlarged

Nils Oscar Company probably is unique in Scandinavia, and

the capacity from 5,000 hl per year to 20,000 hl per year.

perhaps in the whole world: they can boast that they actually

However, due to limitations with the hot water supply, there

control the whole chain – from the fields of grain to the bottle.

was no possibility to brew as much as that. Even the existing

Apart from that, Nils Oscar Company is the most well-known

bottling line had limitations so that both brewing and bottling

microbrewery in Sweden, according to a survey from Novus

on Saturdays got scheduled more and more often. In the

Opinion in May 2014.

beginning of 2012, the demand for Nils Oscar beers had grown to an extent that it got bigger than the actual capacity.

On the fields around Tärnö Manor Farm, located one hour from

As a result, discussions started on how to face the growing

Stockholm, the crops cultivated are the raw materials for all of

demand.

the Nils Oscar product range. These products include several kinds of beer and distilled products. The barley, wheat, rye and

The new capacity goal was defined to be 50,000 hl per year, and

oats then get malted in Nils Oscar’s own malthouse at Tärnö

there were several alternatives evaluated with regard to the future

Manor Farm.

location of the brewery: • Enlarging at the existing location at Fruängskällan in Nyköping

This malt becomes a key component in Nils Oscar’s beer and

• Moving the brewery to Tärnö Manor Farm

spirit production process. An amazing fact, that one single

• Moving the brewery to another location in Nyköping

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SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES – PART THREE

Nils Oscar started to look for possible equipment, both new and

When the containers came to Tärnö, no decision regarding the

used. In February 2012, a very interesting alternative emerged

future location of the brewery had yet been made. It took some

with complete processing equipment manufactured by Kaspar

more months to evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of

Schulz in 2006. It contained a 50 hl brewhouse, the same size as

the three alternatives. Then, in spring 2013, the final decision to

Nils Oscar’s existing brewhouse. As a result, the existing tanks

stay at Fruängskällan was defined.

at Nils Oscar fit well with that processing equipment. The only problem was that the equipment had been dismantled in 2009

Nils Oscar even decided to order additional equipment for the

and had been stored in more than 20 containers that were located

brewhouse from Kaspar Schulz. The companies to be involved

in Bremen. There had been plans to ship the equipment to Africa,

during installation and start-up were chosen, too. Both the

but the project could not be realized and the owner started to look

electricians from Freddan’s El och Bygg AB and the welders from

for a new buyer.

Maseco AB had been engaged already in 2006 when the brewery at Fruängskällan was built. The installation work was coordinated

It was some kind of treasure hunting when four people went to

by Leibfacher CBB Consulting in 2006, and they also got the new

Bremen in March 2012 in order to inspect the containers: Jonas

order for the coming installations in 2013 and 2014.

Kandefelt and Patrick Holmqvist from Nils Oscar, Daniel Baum from Kaspar Schulz and Uwe Leibfacher got the opportunity to

DESCRIPTION OF THE ORIGINAL KASPAR

prove their fitness by climbing round in the containers. What we

SCHULZ 50 HL BREWHOUSE

saw was better than what we had expected beforehand, so both

In the original shape from 2006, the Kaspar Schulz equipment was

Kaspar Schulz and Uwe Leibfacher recommended the purchase

a three-vessel brewhouse with a combined mash and wort kettle,

of the equipment to Nils Oscar, which followed the advice. As

lauter tun and whirlpool. The mash and wort kettle was equipped

a result, 20 containers were delivered to Tärnö Manor Farm in

with bottom zones for heating the mash and with an internal

August 2012. Some containers containing a bottling line remained

cooker for boiling the wort. The kettle was even equipped with

in Bremen as this equipment was excluded from the purchase.

an Opti-masher. The vessels had been positioned in a row with

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SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

9

INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES – PART THREE

Nils Oscar decided to enlarge capacity with an additional wort kettle installed with Schoko equipment. Further decisions included some changes in the layout: • Moving the caustic tank and the wort cooler • Installing a tank for the hot break and a hot break pump in order to pump the hot break from the tank to the lauter tun (as Nils Oscar is not allowed to drain the hot break into the sewer, it is necessary to add the hot break to the spent grains) • Placing the additional wort kettle and the Schoko on the other side of the operator platform in order to get two rows of vessels • Moving the operator platform stairs to the other side • Placing the lauter grant on the operator platform • Dismantling the internal cooker from the mash kettle • New layout for the malt silos and the malt transport Brewhouse vessels from 2006 under installation december 2013.

Also the degree of automatic control was expanded: • Emptying the hot break to the hot break tank and whirlpool

an operator platform between the vessels and the wall behind. All piping was situated within the vessel frames and underneath the

cleaning • Temperature control for 4 bright beer tanks and 2 yeast vessels

operator platform. The brewhouse had separate CIP equipment for cleaning the vessels and the wort line to the fermenting tanks

PREPARING FOR INSTALL ATION

(heated caustic tank).

At the end of June 2013, some more sports had to be executed.

Daniel Baum and Uwe Leibfacher emptied the equipment

The control was fully automatic apart from removing the hot

from the majority of the containers together with Andreas

break from the whirlpool. Additional equipment that was also

Johansson from Maseco. We gathered all the parts belonging to

integrated into the brewhouse control included three malt silos,

the brewhouse and put them back, sorted up according to the

malt mill and malt transport system as well as buffer tanks for

coming installation. As we should install not only a brewhouse

cold water and hot water. Also, the temperature control for 10

but a complete brewery, a lot of details had to be noticed, even

fermenting tanks was operated from the brewhouse, whereas

regarding other equipment. As a result, we had a plan for what

the bright beer tanks had been manually controlled. In that

was contained in the several containers and a schedule for the

application, the capacity was three brews per day.

transport from Tärnö to the brewery in Nyköping. Because of lack of space at the brewery site, it was necessary to empty all containers at Tärnö before transporting the equipment to the brewery. Another decision was that the brewhouse should be completed with the additional equipment before starting up operation.

INSTALL ATION Nils Oscar built a new processing hall that was connected with the existing brewhouse building. In November 2013, the hall was ready for the installation of equipment. The first step was the installation of fermenting tanks and bright beer tanks in a separate room in the hall, followed by the water tanks. In December 2013, the mounting of the brewhouse started. As the delivery of the additional equipment from Kaspar Schulz got delayed, the brewhouse installation could not be finished before 2014. The first brews were done in May. After some days

New wort kettle and Schoko under installation april 2014.

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SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

of parallel brewing in the old and the new brewhouses, the

INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES – PART THREE

old brewhouse went out of operation, marking a milestone in

convinced even very critical beer tasters. Both smell and taste

Nils Oscar’s history. From now on, they could brew what they

have become cleaner, still keeping the typical character, and

wanted and not only what the brewhouse allowed.

the foam has improved a lot.

Maseco AB was responsible for the main part of the installation of

All the changes and modifications that were made from the

all processing equipment, and Henrik Karlenberg did a great job

original 2006 brewhouse to the updated 2014 version worked out

in leading that. We had good help from EMA Specialtransporter

well. This was achieved in close cooperation between Dietram

with both transporting all equipment from Tärnö to Nyköping

Härtl and Christian Grasser from Kaspar Schulz, Uwe Leibfacher

and unloading other equipment that was directly delivered to the

and Nils Oscar. All processing and brewhouse routines had been

brewery.

defined by Uwe Leibfacher in order to achieve optimal hygiene and flexibility.

With regard to the brewhouse, it was some kind of lottery in regard to which components would work and which components needed to be replaced after several years of container storage. We were glad to realize that most of the components worked. There was only a little need for replacement, mainly of electrical components. Freddan’s El & Bygg succeeded in solving some electrical mysteries during installation and, finally, there were no unmarked cables left.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPLETED KASPAR SCHULZ 50 HL BREWHOUSE The brewhouse is a four-vessel brewhouse consisting of mash

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

kettle, lauter tun, wort kettle with Schoko and whirlpool. The internal cooker has been removed from the mash kettle. The

Uwe Leibfacher is an experienced brewmaster (graduated

whirlpool has been equipped with a nozzle for removing the hot

with Diplom-Braumeister at TU München-Weihenstephan

break to the tank. The capacity is 6 brews per day.

in 1988) who worked in leading positions in several breweries in Germany and Sweden until 2002. Since

The control system has been enlarged to cover the following

2003, he has been running his own company, Leibfacher

equipment:

CBB Consulting AB, based in Halmstad/Sweden. Uwe

• Temperature control for 10 fermenting tanks

Leibfacher has been involved in many smaller and bigger

• Temperature control for 4 bright beer tanks

beverage projects in Scandinavia such as the delivery and

• Temperature control for 2 yeast vessels

commissioning of the Nørrebro Bryghus bottling line

• Temperature control and volume control of hot water tank

at Baldersbrønde in 2005, enlarging and relocating the

• Volume control of cold water tank

Nils Oscar Company in 2006 from central Stockholm

• Temperature control and conductivity control of caustic tank

to Nyköping, preparation of Herrljunga Cider for BRC

(CIP brewhouse) • Filling and emptying of malt silos and malt milling

certification 2010 and several piping layouts for processing equipment in breweries and soft drink plants.

• Mashing • Lautering and spent grain removal

CONTACT:

• Wort boiling and cooling

Uwe Leibfacher Leibfacher CBB Consulting AB

Nils Oscar expected to be able to reduce the amounts of malt

Tylövägen 28 A

and hops when moving brewing from the old one to the

S - 302 70 Halmstad

Kaspar Schulz brewhouse. These expectations were fulfilled

www.leibfacher-cbbconsulting.se

with around 20% less malt and 10% less hops per brew. The

Mobiltel. +46-(0)730-794154

adaption of recipes from the old to the new worked well, and

Mail: leibfacher.uwe@telia.com

the quality of the brews from the Kaspar Schulz brewhouse

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

11

ARTICLE

AUTOMATIC YEAST PITCHING CONTROL AND BEER QUALITY H E I D I H E R U P F R O M I N S AT E C H A / S O N B E H A L F O F C R A F T B R E W I N G B U S I N E S S . C O M

This article by Heidi Herup of Insatech A/S gives a good overview of some basic issues related to yeast pitching rates and outlines why control of these are indispensable for any brewer, large or small, who wants to gain full control of the process times and the finished beer quality. The article is brought to you by courtesy of CraftBrewingBusiness.com, where it has previously been featured. practical guide to beer fermentation” by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. They recommend: • For ales, cells to pitch = (0.75 million) x (ml of wort) x (degrees Plato of the wort) • For lagers, cells to pitch = (1.5 million) x (ml of wort) x (degrees Plato of the wort) “It is important to emphasize the importance of pitching rate to overall fermentation performance and beer analysis,” said Chris Boulton, a professor with the University of Nottingham and author of “Brewing Yeast and Fermentation.” “Precise The professional brewer can’t predict how much of the yeast is viable or inspect it at a micro level, but the right technology can.

regulation of this parameter is key to ensuring consistent performance both in terms of fermentation cycle times but also with regard to yeast growth extent and the related efficiency of

The real stars of the craft brewing industry are the ingredients.

conversion of extract into ethanol and the formation of yeast-

Craft enthusiasts grab the latest offering from their favourite

derived beer flavour components.”

brewery or a newcomer off the shelf and immediately check the label. What’s in this? What’s special about it? Invariably, they’ll get some facts or maybe some prose about the hops and malts used to create that batch.

THE SPECIFIC QUALITY AND PROCESS ISSUES TIED TO OVER- OR UNDER-PITCHING ARE: A LOW PITCH RATE CAN LEAD TO:

But what about the yeast? Well, probably no one is buying

• Excess levels of diacetyl

their beer based on the mathematics of your yeast pitching, but

• Increase in higher/fusel alcohol formation

behind the scenes, hitting the perfect yeast pitch will make sure

• Increase in ester formation

your marketing descriptions match the actual flavours of your

• Increase in volatile sulphur compounds

final product in every batch.

• High terminal gravities • Stuck, slow or incomplete fermentations

So can we hit the perfect yeast pitch? Yes, we can – and we

• Increased risk of infection

can reach it while doing other things, letting a machine do the work.

HIGH PITCH RATES CAN LEAD TO: • Very low ester production

YEAST PITCHING BASICS

• Very fast fermentations

Let’s review the basics and the impact yeast and pitch rate have

• Thin or lacking body/mouthfeel

on beer. For the basics, we turn to the great book “Yeast – the

• Autolysis (Yeasty flavours due to lysing of cells)

12

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

AUTOMATIC YEAST PITCHING CONTROL AND BEER QUALITY

Both scenarios can lead to high losses, poor yeast management

and formula tables, will not produce a consistently accurate

and increased batch-to-batch variation. John Carvell, sales and

outcome.

marketing director with Aber Instruments, noted that larger brewers tend to set very tight tolerances on yeast pitching rates,

This is where the machines come into play. The professional

and these have to be +/- 10 percent of the target rate. So, if

brewer can’t predict how much of the yeast is viable or inspect it

the pitching rate was 20 million cells/ml, it has to be 18 to 22

at a micro level, but the right technology can.

million cells/ml to be within target.

“The key here is repeatability,” Boulton says. “Conventional control of pitching rate is based on analysis of pitching yeast slurries. This can be via measurement of spun solids or based on cell counts. Preferably there will also be a correction for viability, typically based on the use of a haemocytometer counting chamber containing yeast cells stained with methylene blue. This correction is not always carried out. Both of the methods of yeast slurry analysis are subject to significant errors because of the inherent difficulty of counting large numbers of cells and because of the presence of variable amounts of non-yeast solids.”

“Previous work, in which the performance of a number of analysts working with replicate samples of slurries has been compared, suggested that in absolute terms the precision of manual counting methods is no better than +/- 20 percent,” Boulton continued.

Mobile pitching skid that can probe and factor in the on-line live yeast cell count to around +/- 2% to 5%.

With technology like Aber Instruments’ PerfectPitch, a mobile pitching skid that can probe and factor in the on-line live yeast cell count, the error rate is reduced to around +/- 2 percent to 5

AUTOMATION HAS AN ANSWER

percent.

Knowing the science and executing it within the brewing process are two different things, and even the most diligent

“The presence of variable amounts of trub in pitching yeast

craft brewer might over or underestimate their yeast cell count

slurries means that under-pitching is the most likely error. This

because of the unpredictability of things at the micro’est of

is a cause for concern but is probably outweighed by the poor

micro levels. Not all yeast cells are viable, so specifying how

repeatability of manual analyses. The errors are not related to

much yeast should be added, based solely on know-how

recipe,” Boulton said.

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

13

AUTOMATIC YEAST PITCHING CONTROL AND BEER QUALITY

As an example of the technology involved in gaining full control

to forward plan with accuracy, and therefore more vessels are

of the pitching rates, we have chosen PerfectPitch from Aber

required to meet production demands,” Boulton said. “The

Instruments. The PerfectPitch skid is comprised of the Aber

additional vessels attract both capex (investment) and opex

Compact probe, a flow meter and a V350 monitor that serves

(operational) costs.”

as a mini PLC. The PLC on the skid calculates the total number of live yeast cells being transferred over. This figure is calculated

A US-based craft brewer reported in 2012 and 2013 that it was

from the combination of the live cell concentration (cells/ml) and

throwing away approximately 2,000 HL of beer per year due

the flow rate of the yeast slurry. The compact and the flow meter

to under-pitching. So, estimate how much money one barrel

communicate with the V350 to ensure the correct concentration

of your production costs you, and then consider that loss. This

of live yeast has been pitched. A beacon on the PerfectPitch

brewer calculated that it was losing potentially $30,000 per year.

comes on when the pre-set target concentration is reached,

The production costs for smaller breweries are likely to be even

which can be used as an indicator to switch off the pump.

higher per HL! For those interested in eliminating this concern from their production, some means of reliable pitching control must be introduced. If this interest is specifically aimed at the PerfectPitch, the product can be said to fit craft breweries with an output of 25,000 HL barrels per year and upward.

F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N For further information on the Aber Instruments solutions, please contact Insatech A/S on mail@insatech.com or call +45 55372095.

The Compact Adapt Yeast Monitor and Flow Meter.

Breweries that employ cone-to-cone pitching will really benefit from this approach as taking a representative sample from the bottom of the yeast cone is impossible due the heterogeneous nature of the yeast slurry at the bottom of the cone.

BENEFITS BEYOND BEER So, accurately analysing cells in real time helps protect brews from the potential off-flavours and issues mentioned earlier, which enables the brewer to have a better and more consistent product hit the market. Consistently producing quality beer, while reducing losses, is a perfect model for cost-savings.

“Quantitative cost-savings can be couched in terms of poor vessel utilization such that variable cycle times result in an inability

14

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

ARTICLE

SINGLE HOP AND MIXED HOP VARIETY AROMAS | NEW | SNLEEW HOPSTEINER HOPSTEINER T TS E LR E T0T8E/ 2R0 01 84 / 2 0 1 4

The challenge of predicting the aroma, flavor and taste effect of different hop varieties in finished beer is one that craft brewers have to deal with on a regular basis. Most of us are intrigued, fascinated and sometimes confused by this issue, and certainly the quickly increasing supply of new hop varieties does not make the job any easier.

T ETCEHCNHI N CA I CLASLUSPUP POPROTR T But now it seems that the hop suppliers might give us a little bit of guidance as demonstrated by this short article from Hopsteiner.

NE NW EW S LSELTETTETRE R0 80/82/021041 4

VARIETY USED FOR DRY HOPPING (IN TOTAL used 300G / HL) VarietyVariety used for Dryfor Hopping Dry Hopping

Single Single Hop Hop and mixed and mixed HopVARIETY Hop Variety Variety Aromas Aromas SINGLE HOP AND MIXED HOP AROMAS At the AtHopsteiner the Hopsteiner Forum Forum in Julyin2014 July a2014 a selection selection of Pale of Ales Pale were Ales were apresented to an to At the Hopsteiner Forum in Julypresented 2014 selection of an

Pale Ale 1 audience audience of brewers of brewers and brewing and brewing scientists scientists to to show the show impact the impact on beeron aroma beer by aroma onlyby using only using Pale Ale 2 brewing scientists tohop show thedry impact onhopping. beer aroma Pale

by Ale different different hop varieties varieties for hopping. for dry Pale 1 Ale 1

Blending Blending

(in (in300g total/ 300g hl) / hl) UStotal Lemondrop

Pale Ales were presented to an audience of brewers and

pure

US Calypso

pure

German Polaris

pure

US Lemondrop US Lemondrop

Pale Ale 3

onlyUnique using diff erent hop varieties for dry hopping.

Unique and partly and new partly hop new varieties hop varieties were sewere se-

BLENDING

pure pure

Pale Ale Pale 2 Ale US Calypso US Calypso Pale Ale2 4 German Cascade purepure pure lected to lected produce to produce four single four hopped single hopped beers beers and in addition and in addition four mixed four combinations. mixed combinations.

Pale Ale 5 US Calypso & German Cascade ½ each Unique and partly new hop varieties were selected toPale Ale Pale 3 Ale 3 German German PolarisPolaris pure pure The base The beer base of beer all eight of allPale eight Ales Pale was Ales identi was -identi 1/3 each Pale Ale 6 US Lemondrop & US Calypso & German produce four single hopped beers and in addition four cal (14°P, cal6% (14°P, abv.)

6%and abv.) exclusively and exclusively made us made - usPale - Ale Pale 4 Ale 4 German German Cascade Cascade pure pure Cascade mixed ingcombinations.

Hallertau ing Hallertau Tradition Tradition in the brewhouse. in the brewhouse.

The The following following varieties varieties and blendings and blendings thereofthereof were were Pale Ale5 7 German Polaris & German Cascade ½ each Pale Ale Pale 5 Ale US Calypso US Calypso & German & German Cascade Cascade ½ each½ each used toused create toacreate selection a selection of various of various dry hopdry - hop Pale Ale 8 US Lemondrop & US Calypso ½ each The ping base aromas. beer ofaromas. all eight Pale Ales was identical ping Pale Ale Pale 6 Ale 6 US Lemondrop US Lemondrop & US Calypso & US Calypso & German & German Cascade Cascade ⅓ each⅓ each

(14°P, 6% abv.) and exclusively made using Hallertau

Pale 7 Ale 7 Tradition in the brewhouse. The following varieties Pale Ale

German German PolarisPolaris & German & German Cascade Cascade

½ each½ each

US Lemondrop US Lemondrop & US Calypso & US Calypso

½ each½ each

and blendings thereof were used to create a selection of various dry hopping aromas.

Pale Ale Pale 8 Ale 8

Tasting Tasting Results Results

2

Each ofEach the following of the following figures figures compares compares the fla -the fla Fig.- 1 vor profile vor of profile the single of thehopped single hopped Pale Ales Pale and Ales and Eachtheir of the following figures compares the flavor profile blendings. their blendings.

TASTING RESULTS

of the single1Figure hopped Pale2anshow Ales and their blendings.

Figure and 21show and increase an increase of fruity ofand fruity and

Fig. 1 misc.

sugarlike

citrusy misc.

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citrusy citrusy aroma aroma profilesprofiles if hopsifwere hopsused wereinused in mixed mixed combinations. combinations.

Therefore, Therefore, their initial their initial Figure 1 and 2 show an increase of fruity and flavor characteristics flavor characteristics were even were more even pro more - pro - resinous resinous spicy citrusy aroma profimixture lesThe if hops wereofused invarieties mixed nounced. nounced.

The mixture of three varieties three (see (see fig.3) seem fig.3) to seem become to become indistinct indistinct compared compared to to combinations. Therefore, their initial flavor the single the hopped single hopped profiles.profiles.

However, However, dependdependFig. 3 Fig. 3 characteristics were evendominating morearoma pronounced.

The citrusy ing on certain ing on certain dominating components, aroma components, misc. misc. someofvarieties some varieties varieties like Polaris like fiPolaris (see (see 4) to even fig.

4) even mixture three (see g.3) fig. seem become keep their keep typical their typical aroma characteristic aroma characteristic used if used indistinct compared to the single hopped ifprofi les. in a mixture in a mixture of hop varieties. of hop varieties. sugarlike sugarlike If you have If you any have further any further questions questions please do please not do not

evenhesitate keep their typical aroma us. characteristic if used in a hesitate to contact to contact us.

resinous

resinous spicy

floral

sugarlike

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Calypso / Cascade

floral

herbal spicy

3

Fig. 4

fruity

floral

resinous

Fig. 4 misc.

floral

fruity

sugarlike

resinous

fruity Lemondrop

citrusy

floral Lemondrop

3

citrusy fruity

misc.

Calypso

herbal Cascade

spicy

citrusy

misc.

Calypso

herbal

Fig. 2

fruity

floral

However, depending on certain dominating aroma components, some varieties like Polaris (see fig. 4)

Fig. 2

citrusy

2

herbal

spicy

spicy

citrusy

citrusy

Calypso herbal

Lemondrop Calypso

Lemondrop / Lemondrop / Calypso Calypso

6

misc.

fruity

6

fruity

Lemondrop

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Calypso

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sugarlike

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herbal

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resinous spicy

herbal spicy

Polaris

herbal Cascade

Cascade

Polaris / Cascade

Polaris / Cascade

mixture of hop varieties.

4

4

5

Newsletter, Newsletter, AugustAugust 2014 2014 SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

15

5

ARTICLE

50 ACHIEVEMENTS

IN BREWING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY IN 350 YEARS – PART 2 1930s TO OUR TIMES AXEL G. KRISTIANSEN, E-MAIL: AGK@BREWINGSCHOOL.DK

We here bring you Part 2 of the fascinating ‘tour de force’ review from our ‘own’ Axel G. Kristiansen, director of The Scandinavian School of Brewing, of the events and inventions that have shaped our industry during the past three and a half centuries.

This part takes us from the discovery of sexual reproduction of brewer’s yeast through to the school’s own proposal for a fully continuous, full-scale brewery. This article is brought to you with the generous and exclusive permission from Brauwelt International, where this article was first featured some months back.

In the first part of this review of 350 years of technological

28. Danish chemical engineer Viggo Berglund, Director at

improvements, adopting new machinery, new processes and

the Scandinavian School of Brewing, in April 1944 publishes

science of botany, biochemistry, laboratory instruments,

a paper called ‘Vatten’ in the Swedish Brewer’s magazine.

engineering and processing technology, we encountered 25

He documents and explains the phosphate and carbonate

brewing science achievements in a chronological order. We have

interdependent buffers in brewing water in the Danish

seen that scientists from Germany, the Czech Republic, England,

16 SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . language. Berglund’s work allowed a better understanding

Denmark and France dominated the scene.

of the role of malt and water hardness, and it allowed the beginning of an era when systematic water treatment became

In this part, Part 2, we shall see that, up through the 1970s,

common for brewhouse technology*.

still many more brewing scientists come up with significant improvements and that, in the years after the 1970s, developments

29. The classic long and cold beer maturation was replaced by a

change direction and arise more and more from the industry

warm primary fermentation followed by a shorter, but very cold,

suppliers. As in Part 1, the major brewing achievements are listed

maturation, once the biological understanding of formation of

chronologically rather than according to importance:

diacetyl (butane-2,3-dione) during primary fermentation followed by removal of diacetyl at the end of the primary fermentation was

26. Professor Øjvind Winge, the first genetics university

gradually accepted. It can be debated as to when, but, since the

professor in Denmark and later professor at Carlsberg Laboratory,

1950s, there is evidence of this understanding, which has changed

Copenhagen, discovers sexual reproduction by brewer’s yeast

and shortened the process for lager beer ever since.

in 1937, allowing controlled yeast breeding and the birth of genetic engineering. Professor Winge also started a hop breeding

30. Chemical stabilization of beer with different chemicals, first

programme at Carlsberg Laboratory and ran a hop farm south of

Nylon 66, later silica gel and PVP, becomes common during the

Copenhagen, which went on until the 1960s*.

1960s, and there is evidence that, already in 1954, W.D. McFarlane & Co. used PVP to precipitate polyphenols. From 1961,

27. Filtration of beer using kieselguhr from fossils originating

McFarlane used PVPP (not PVP), and he delivered a presentation

from diatoms containing SiO2 become common since the 1940s,

of his findings at the EBC Congress in Vienna, 1961.

remains of microscopic single-celled aquatic algae, find use as an

Brewers Guinness and Carlsberg both worked with company ISP,

efficient filter aid in several industries. Breweries are among those

the producer of ‘Polyclar AT’, in the early 1960s to develop the

industries.

technology of “chemical stabilization’’ into practical use*.

when kieselguhr (KG) or diatomaceous earth (DE), the fossilized

50 ACHIEVEMENTS IN BREWING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY IN 350 YEARS – PART 2: 1930S TO OUR TIMES

31. Stainless steel replaces copper as brewhouse construction

36. Danish citizen and chemical engineer Morten Meilgaard,

material – since the 1960s. This change of construction material

most of his career in senior technical roles with Stroh in USA,

was driven by a need to lower material costs, but also by the

was asked to be the head of a ASBC work group, which in 1975

advent of craft allowing for hygienic welding of stainless steel.

published ‘The flavour wheel origin’ in the J. ASBS. The work introduces a new flavour terminology based on 122 flavour

32. Cylindroconical fermenters and fixed piping replace

expressions divided into 14 classes, soon after adopted by most

horizontal fermenters and hose connections – since late

nations and all large brewing groups worldwide. Meilgaard’s work

1960s. In 1930, Swiss brewer, Dr. Leopold Nathan, in the

creating a beer flavour language was quickly adopted by most

J. Inst. Brewing 36, pp. 538-550, described fermentation in

breweries*.

cylindroconical fermenters, and he patented the tank itself in 1908 and again in 1927. His fermenters were 100 hl enamel-

37. High Gravity Brewing (HGB) using deaerated, softened and

lined tanks; later he used rolled aluminium plates – novel for

carbonated water became the practice for international lager

that time. Brewers at that time were slow movers and suspicious

brewers starting in the 1970s. An exact date and ‘first brewery’ are

of this type tank and this process for fermentation, and it was

not identified – perhaps because the first users of this technique

not until the 1960s that cylindroconical fermenters became

were not proud users before HGB became common practice for

common in breweries*.

most lager brewers in the 1980s*.

33. Fermentation under increased tank pressure – up to 1.8 ato at

38. Barley breeding: crop yield from spring barley, 2–row barley

the top – is applied by Technical Director, Master Brewer Henning

growing has steadily increased from 4 t/ha in the 1970s to 7 t/ha

Nielsen, at Faxe Brewery (today Royal Unibrew) in Denmark in

after the year 2000 in parts of the world where barley enjoys ideal

combination with the primary temperature during fermentation

growing conditions, i.e. in Northern Europe.

raised from 10 to 16o C. This process achieved a significant shortening of process time in the CCTs, but also increased the

39. VTT, Hartwall and Sinebrychoff, all Finnish, invented an

need for stabilization. The process was introduced in 1975-76

immobilized process for short and continuous maturation

17 by German Dr. H. J. Wellhoener. The in tall CCTs and inspired

DINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

time for beer processing in Finland – around since the

idea was to enhance efficiency by temperature while stalling the

1980s. Finnish citizen and chemical engineer Esko Pajunen,

multiplication by CO2.

later President of EBC and Research Director of Carlsberg

Independent of the new fermentation process, the brewery

process was invented to allow for larger volume of beer

introduced the sales of only unpasteurized beer facilitated by

processing with a limited number of fermenters during peak

an increased level of sanitation. The unpasteurised process was

season. Although proven to work, the process did not obtain

applied for 15 years to make a difference to competing brands

international popularity, and even in Finland it is not used very

(quote from Henning Nielsen, 1 Aug 2013).

much, perhaps because the brewers are concerned with rapid

Laboratory, patented the process in the USA in 1990. The

spreading of potential infections*.

34. In 1958, American Fred Calhoun founded the company Industrial Dynamics Filtec. This company is considered to be the

40. The scientific discipline of breeding yeast strains with

first company manufacturing Empty Bottle Inspection machines

particular properties has been available for a long time, first

(EBIs). Fred Calhoun created and sold the world’s first EBI in

with natural breeding, later with GMO techniques. It has, since

1958. Efficient EBIs in beer bottling started generally to replace

the 1980s, been understood that many fermentation properties

visual bottle inspection in the 1970s, when early EBIs, having only

can be targeted by smart breeding. Examples are flocculation,

mouth and bottom bottle inspection, became available. Since the

faster diacetyl reduction, special flavours, temperature

1980s, nearly all returnable glass packaging lines have used EBIs

robustness, etc.

(www.filtec.com/about).

41. A mash filter with high-speed lautering by use of a rubber 35. The whirlpool separator for removing hops and trub after the

membrane working under air pressure and a hammer mill

wort boiling was introduced to replace the hop-backs at Molson's

producing > 12 brews in 24 hours and a yield of 100% extract was

brewery in Canada in 1960 and was ubiquitous in breweries by

offered by Belgian Company Meura in 1987 (www.meura /our-

the 1980s*.

company/history-peit.htm)

50 ACHIEVEMENTS IN BREWING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY IN 350 YEARS – PART 2: 1930S TO OUR TIMES

42. Beer in PET bottles was seen already in 1993 in basis

inspiration for its Toyota Production System, commonly known

PET bottles with classic closure. They had poor barrier

as LEAN since Americans Jones & Womack in 1996 wrote the CI

characteristics, and shelf life was weeks rather than months.

best seller ‘Lean thinking’. By the mid- 2000s, most international

After the year 2000, multilayer PET and PET with inner

brewing groups focus on CI. Some use LEAN, some TPM, other

carbon layer showed better barrier characteristics, and oxygen

Six Sigma, but all use CI to reduce losses, increase material flow

penetration became much better.

and increase quality precision. Anyway, brewers were followers of SCM and CI, not innovators.

43. In the 1980s, a microarray approach for screening of yeast strains is introduced, generally known as an ‘Omnilog’.

47. Experiments with membrane filtration – avoiding filter

A phenotype-microarray system enables one to monitor

aids such as kieselguhr – have been ongoing in small scales

simultaneously the phenotypic reaction of cells like yeast

since the 1980s. Westfalia/Pall had an early operation at Beck’s

strains to environmental challenges spotted on microtiter

Bier in Bremen, Germany. The first large-scale plant supplied

plates. The phenotypic reactions are recorded as either end-

by Westfalia/Pall was commissioned by Head Brewer Anders

point measurements or respiration kinetics similar to growth

Kokholm at the Carlsberg Fredericia Brewery in March 2005.

curves, and the technique nowadays allows for fast processing of vast amounts of cells and analysis of large data amounts for

48. Application of a proline-specific endoprotease, trade

yeast breeders.

name ‘Brewer’s Clarex’ from company DSM, allows chemical stabilization and filtration and removal of chill haze. This became

44. Increasingly, since the 1990s, breweries make use of

possible around 2007, and ‘Brewer’s Clarex’ has been marketed

Performance Management Systems to measure and act on

large-scale since the Drinktec exhibition in Munich in 2009. In

underperformances. KPIs like waterfactor [hl / hl], % OEE, %

addition, the proline-specific endoprotease allows warm filtration

extract losses, heating and cooling consumptions [kWh/hl] and

at 4 – 7o C, this way saving beer filter cooling energy*.

commissioning test conditions [i.e. DIN 8782] become common brewery management concepts, starting from the international brewing groups, later common practice for all. However, no international industry standard is, achieved, as brewers

49. Collection of CO2 from fermenters straight after wort tank filling – since 2010. This technique is still being tested at pilot

breweries but is soon expected to become the industry standard.

increasingly act within their own company structure.

50. A fully continuous, large-scale brewery with scope 45. Low LOX barley varieties offering longer beer flavour stability

from milling to warehouse is proposed and documented by

are identified and patented with Patent no. WO02/053721

Scandinavian School of Brewing, published April (Part 1) and

filed jointly by Carlsberg Research Centre, Heineken Technical

June (Part 2) 2011 in Brauwelt Intl.

Services and Brasserie Kronenbourg in 2002.

Nowadays, large quantities of Low LOX barley varieties are grown

EDITOR'S COMMENT

and malted, providing longer shelf life for lager beers.

The author of this article has a complete list of references 46. With inspiration from other industries, brewers start to look

for the background statements and results referred to in

at the whole manufacturing supply chain from procurement to

the article (these are marked by an asterix *). The list of

distribution starting in the 2000s.

references can be obtained by contacting the author at Axel Grøndahl Kristiansen agk@brewingschool.dk

Early inspirations are companies outside the brewing industry such as Norwegian Orla and FMGC companies such as Anglo Dutch UNILEVER, American Kraft Food and Swiss Nestle, which have developed and used Supply Chain Management (SCM) concepts to increase material flow, speed up service precision and lower logistics costs. In many cases, SCM is combined with Continuous Improvement (CI) concepts, particularly from car manufacturers, where especially Toyota has been a much used

18

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

50 ACHIEVEMENTS IN BREWING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY IN 350 YEARS – PART 2: 1930S TO OUR TIMES

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Axel G. Kristiansen graduated as Diploma Master Brewer from the Scandinavian School of Brewing in 1984, when he started a long and very varied career within the Carlsberg Group, with jobs ranging from managing the brewhouse at Carlsberg Copenhagen to being the head brewer at Birra Poretti in Italy. In 2004, Axel returned to The Scandinavian School of Brewing, this time as the director. Axel will be leaving his current job at the end of 2014 to take up a position as Vice President at The Technical University of Denmark.

CONTACT: agk@brewingschool.dk

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

19

ARTICLE

FIRST CONFERENCE ON ‘NORDIC BEER’, 7–8 NOVEMBER 2014 ANDERS KISSMEYER, TECHNICAL EDITOR, E-MAIL: ANDERS@KISSMEYER.DK

On Friday, November 7th, and Saturday, the 8th, the first-ever conference on ‘Nordic Beer’ (Ny Nordisk Øl) took place at the Comwell Conference Centre in Korsør, Denmark. The conference, organized by the self-appointed but now ‘official’ Initiative Group (Bodil Pallesen of Agrotech, Per Kølster of Kølster Malt & Beer, communications consultant Christian Andersen and the undersigned), was part of the publicly-supported, 2-year ‘Nordic Beer’ network project running from June this year.

We are pleased to announce that the conference, attended by representatives from the value chain in Norway, Sweden and Denmark, was a huge success with plenty of fruitful discussions pointing towards specific solutions to the issues focused on.

The purpose of the conference was partly to increase the

4. To inspire each other to innovate – in the field, in the

general knowledge level about the coupling of beer with

forest, in the fruit plantations and greenhouses, at the plant

Nordic terroir amongst the participants, as well as, obviously,

breeders, at the maltsters and processors of fruits, herbs and

to strengthen the cooperation among the individual members

plants, at the ingredient producers and merchants, at the

of the value chain and among the Nordic countries. The

breweries, in universities and other ‘knowledge institutions’

conference was open to anyone interested in participating,

as well as amongst ‘external resource individuals’, e. g.

and several hundred invitations had been sent out in August,

consumers, restaurateurs, chefs, sommeliers, etc. All with a

resulting in an attendance of approximately 50 persons.

view towards strengthening the ‘Nordic Beer’ efforts.

5. To identify some of the many institutions, companies and

The planning and the organization of the conference were

persons in the value chain which have not yet been part of

focused on making it encourage the networking aspect. And, at

the project in order for us to engage them in our overall

the beginning of the event, Anders Kissmeyer summarized the objectives and aspirations of the organizers as follows:

project.

6. To formulate ideas for future projects in formats that are suitable for applications for further funding – from the

1. To strengthen existing networks and to form new ones, both

GUDP (Green Development and Demonstration Programme

across the value chain and across the national borders. The

– the institution that has supported the current network

networks should give priority to very specific and concrete

project), the Nordic Council, EU funds, and all other

projects rather than ‘only’ encourage further discussions.

2. To formulate a massive amount of new ideas for Nordic beers and what they should be brewed from.

potential sources of funds.

7. ...and last, but not least, to have a good time together enjoying good ‘Nordic Beer’-inspired beers!

3. To exchange ideas on effective knowledge sharing, allowing anyone interested to follow the progress of the individual

The programme for the conference was as follows – with the

projects, what others have done and what they have achieved.

most significant conclusions from the elements added:

20

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

FIRST CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER, 7–8 NOVEMBER 2014

Anders Kissmeyer.

WELCOME BY ANDERS KISSMEYER, KISSMEYER BEER & BREWING Besides thanking everyone involved and going through the objectives listed above, Anders went through the

Claus Meyer.

VISIONS OF NORDIC TERROIR AND THE NEW N O R D I C C U I S I N E – W H AT A R E T H E R E L E VA N T L E S S O N S F R O M T H I S T H AT C A N B E E X P L O I T E D B Y THE ‘NORDIC BEER’ PROJECT? BY CLAUS MEYER, GASTRONOMIC ENTREPRENEUR

programme for the conference, outlining the various practical implications, and he reminded the participants

Claus is one of the fathers of the New Nordic Cuisine

of the vision of the overall Nordic Beer project:

movement – taking the initiative to the work that

ended up in the so-called ‘Aarhus Declaration’ which

‘To create a number of new beer styles that owe their

formulated the principles behind the New Nordic

distinct character to new raw materials and ingredients

Cuisine – as well as being a co-owner and co-founder

as well as to novel techniques applied in the handling of

of the restaurant ‘Noma’, the absolute flagship of NNC.

the ingredients, from the selection of cultivars through the

Based on his personal experiences in this journey

breeding, the cultivation and the processing of them and

as well as his life-long passion for beer, Claus talked

finally to their application in the brewing processes. The

about the challenges of making terroir-based beer and

journey towards the objectives takes place in a multitude of

the vision of elevating Nordic Beer to the same level

cooperating networks involving all links in the value chain.

of sophistication and public image as that of the wine

And the journey never ends...’

universe.

VIDEO GREETING FROM THE DANISH MINISTER OF F O O D , F I S H I N G A N D A G R I C U LT U R E , D A N J Ø R G E N S E N

V I S I O N S F O R B E E R A N D N O R D I C B E E R I N PA R T I C U LAR, ‘OLDERMAND’ (PRESIDENT) OF THE DANISH PA R L I A M E N TA R Y B E E R C L U B , K R I S T I A N P I H L LORENTZEN

The minister expressed his apologies and regrets for not being able to attend in person. He stressed that he, as the minister also for beer and brewing in Denmark, even

Kristian gave the audience an introduction to the

before taking office was broadly recognized for his huge

Danish Parliamentary Beer Club and explained how this

interest in beer. Praising the initiative behind the Nordic

powerful group of Danish politicians, representing all

Beer project in general and the conference specifically,

political parties from left to right, looks at the Danish

the minister expressed his hopes that the overall project

beer scene and offers support in any way it can. The club

would produce a new, locally-founded and successful

is firmly and fully behind the ‘Nordic Beer’ initiative,

brewing culture in Denmark mirroring the success of

and with a promise of the club’s full attention if we need

the New Nordic Cuisine, and he wished us a good and

matters dealt with at the political level, Kristian also

fruitful conference.

wished us a good conference.

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

21

FIRST CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER, 7–8 NOVEMBER 2014

B E E R A N D T E R R O I R I N A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L P E R S P E C T I V E , M A R T Y N C O R N E L L , U K J O U R N A L I S T, B E E R W R I T E R A N D BLOGGER (ZYTHOPHILE.WORDPRESS.COM) Martyn was invited by us to be the

courtesy, but also because the request

both very rewarding and inspiring

keynote speaker at the conference,

for a presentation on this topic had

for us in Korsør as well. We at the

as he has abundant, international

pushed him to do some research into

SBR expect to bring you Martyn’s

experience with the beer scenes and

areas and corners of the beer world

presentation in an article format in

cultures all around the globe. And

that he had not previously explored,

one of the coming issues of the SBR.

Martyn started by thanking us for

and this had been very enriching for

the invitation – not just as a standard

himself. And the result was certainly

S TAT U S O F T H E ‘ N O R D I C B E E R ’ M OV E M E N T S I N N O R WAY B Y J Ø R N G U N N A R S O N A N D E R S E N ( K L O S T E R G Å R D E N , TA U T R A ) A N D M E T T E G O U L T H O M S E N ( B I O F O R S K ) , S W E D E N B Y M I C H A E L D U G G E E N G S T R Ø M ( D U G G E S A L E - & P O RT E R B RY G G E R I , G OT H E N B U R G ) A N D D E N M A R K B Y A N D E R S K I S S M E Y E R Before opening this point on the

the Finnish Association of Small

scale project called ‘Norsk malt,

agenda, Anders Kissmeyer explained

Breweries, Mika Heikkinen, so there

humle og urter - smaken av norsk øl’

the reason for not having included

is hope for future improvement of

(‘Norwegian malt, hops and herbs

Finland and Iceland among the

communications.

– the flavour of Norwegian Beer’)

countries to which invitations were

involving a significant number of

sent. Basically, it was a question

The four speakers gave an overview

both Norwegian breweries as well as

of prioritizing the time resources

of the status of projects, results

knowledge and research institutions.

in preparation for the conference.

and perspectives for the ‘Nordic

So there is very encouraging news

Although the sum of money in the

Beer’ activities in their respective

from Norway, whereas Mikke from

GUDP grant – 50% of a project budget

countries. We hope to be able

22 us SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW .

Dugges in Sweden informed

of a little over 1.2 million DKK –

to give the readers of the SBR a

that the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement in

seems like a lot, the time needed to

comprehensive overview of the

Sweden has not yet caught on like

prepare the conference far exceeded

activities in Norway and Sweden in

it has in Norway and Denmark.

the number of hours in the budget,

coming issues, and the status as far

Most of the focus of Swedish craft

and it was therefore necessary to limit

as Denmark is concerned has already

brewers is still on very hoppy beers

the invitations to Norway and Sweden

been covered quite comprehensively

with a clear inspiration from the

as we in the initiative group already

– and further updates will be given

USA. Mikke was, however, still

had a comprehensive list of contacts

as and when relevant. So, in the

very optimistic and expected

in these two countries that could be

interest of limiting the length of this

that ‘Nordic Beer’ in Sweden

used for the invitations. We have no

summary article, I will limit myself

would soon take off and receive

such lists for Iceland and Finland,

to briefly stating that the interest in

attention and popularity

and in general the communication

‘Nordic Beer’ in Norway is already

amongst brewers, media and

between the craft beer communities

now quite significant – to a large

consumers in much the

in Scandinavia and the other Nordic

extent supported by the rather strong

same way as we see it in

countries is extremely limited – to the

culture of traditional farm brewing

the rest of Scandinavia.

extent that we, at present, particularly

in Norway that seems to have

consider Finland to be a ‘black hole’ in

survived the lager revolution and

terms of communication. Of course,

industrialization of brewing during

we hope that we’re able to remedy this

the past couple of centuries in much

shortcoming later on in the project,

better shape than in Sweden and

and Anders informed the conference

particularly Denmark. Further, the

that he had recently been contacted

Norwegian government has launched

by the newly-elected chairman of

and economically supports a large-

FIRST CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER, 7–8 NOVEMBER 2014

INTRODUCTION TO THE FOUR WORKSHOPS

abandoned cultivars of the different cereals and makes these

The remainder of this conference was left to the active

available for testing in baking and other present day uses. The

participation of all attendees in four workshops, each

‘introducers’ were given about 10 minutes to present their views

focusing on a specific topic representing a challenge and/

on the topic in a freely chosen format.

or a development area for the future Nordic Beer work. In his introduction of the workshops taking place on Saturday

At the end of these introductions, the participants chose which

morning, Anders Kissmeyer outlined how the practicalities

workshop they wanted to participate in the next morning.

of the workshops would play out and said that no rigid framework for the agendas and for the work in the workshops had been laid down by the organizers. Thus, what went on

1. I NTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP ON THE TOPIC ‘MALT ’

in the workshops was entirely up to the presenters and to

The ‘introducers’ were Kim G. Jørgensen, Danish Malting Group,

the participants. Also, Anders underlined yet again that the

and Anders Borgen, Agrologica. The short headlines for this

organizers strongly encouraged that the workshops focus on

workshop formulated by the organizers in the invitation to the

formulating and organizing specific and concrete projects and

conference were as follows: ‘How may we further the utilization

put less emphasis on the tempting option of just discussing the

of the potential of local malts in terms of their flavour and taste

topics from a theoretical perspective.

contributions to beer? In the interest of the ‘Nordic Beer’ project, we would like to encourage the gathering of knowledge about

The topics for the four workshops were chosen by the main

cultivars other than the modern cultivars grown today in the

network (to which the GUDP funds were granted) at its

search for indigenous, different and positive taste and flavour

first meeting in July, and as a ‘kick off ’ to the work in the

attributes. Can we increase our insight into the diversity of

workshops, the organizers invited a group of ‘experts’ within

various cereals - both the well-known and the more ‘exotic’ – that

the topics to introduce these to the conference participants.

may grow in the region? What are the possibilities for selecting

Each topic had more than one presenter/introducer, as we

and growing cultivars that are adapted or chosen so as to suit the

tried to cover the extremes of the range of ‘positions’ within

requirements or wishes of individual breweries?’

the fields. That was exemplified by the malt topic, in which one end of the spectrum was represented by Kim G. Jørgensen, who is the CEO of the largest Danish industrial malting company,

2. I NTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP ON THE TOPIC ‘YEAST ’

while the other end was represented by Anders Borgen, who

The ‘introducers’ were Sigrid Gertsen-Schibbye, Lallemand/

works for Agrologica, a company that works with old and

Danske Gærfabrikker (Danish Yeast Factories), Troels

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

23

FIRST CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER, 7–8 NOVEMBER 2014

Prahl, Ferm/White Labs, and Claus Christensen,

After an intense afternoon on the Friday going through the

Munkebo Mikrobryggeri. The short headlines for this

agenda outlined above, it became time to unwind and continue

workshop formulated by the organizers in the invitation

the networking and explorations into the world of ‘Nordic Beer’

to the conference were as follows: ‘How can we further a

in a more practical, relaxed and tantalizing manner. This was

development that will give us a broad supply of commercially

achieved by the participants having a very nice dinner followed

available, genuinely Nordic yeast strains with both

by informal socializing in the company of gracious amounts

acceptable process characteristics and unique flavour and

of about 25 different beers, more or less inspired by the

taste contributions to the beer? And what is the potential in

‘Nordic Beer’ approach. The organizers had asked all brewers

spontaneous fermentations, or fermentations created by other

participating in the conference to bring along some of their

methods of inoculation than traditional yeast pitching, in

own beers that they thought would be of interest and on which

creating novel Nordic Beer styles?’

they would appreciate feedback from their peers and other people engaged in the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement. I’m extremely

3. I NTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP

tempted to start listing these beers and describing their aromas,

ON THE TOPIC ‘NORDIC FL AVOURING

flavours and taste qualities, but this would obviously be much

INGREDIENTS’

too lengthy for this article. Suffice it to say here that, in case

Mads Deichmann Jensen, Ikast Mikrobryggeri, Niels Stærup,

any conference participant was not already overly excited by

Kryddersnapse.dk (flavoured aquavits), and Antoni Aagaard

the day’s professional program, they definitely must have been

Madsen, Thisted Bryghus, were the ‘introducers’ for this topic,

by tasting their way through this multitude of very different,

and the short headlines for this workshop were as follows:

fascinating and novel flavour revelations! The fact that we,

‘How can we gather and structure our knowledge about wild

already at this stage of infancy in our overall project, can

and cultivated plants that have potential as Nordic flavouring

muster such a beer extravaganza is, beyond anything, deeply

ingredients in brewing? What are their effects and properties in

encouraging!

brewing, where can they be found, when and how should they be harvested, which parts of the plants are suitable, how should

After the workshops had both spent the time available on their

they be processed or prepared for their use in brewing, and –

discussions and subsequently presented and discussed their

not least – how, when and how much of the plants can be added

findings and ideas in plenum around midday on Saturday,

during the brewing process?’

the conference was ended with a short evaluation session.

And I’m extremely happy to report that the satisfaction felt

4. I NTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP ON THE TOPIC ‘BEER WITHOUT HOPS’

by us, the organizers of the conference, in terms of achieving much of what we had hoped for beforehand was apparently,

This topic was introduced by Peter Schrøder, Viborg Bryghus,

to a very large degree, shared by the participants. At least,

and Tore Jørgensen, Herslev Bryghus, and the short headlines

the feedback received about the format, the contents and the

for this workshop were as follows: ‘How can other plants or

overall experience of the conference by the participants was

additions replace the hops in beer, contributing bitterness – or

overwhelmingly positive.

balance of taste and flavour by other means – positive flavour and taste qualities, and, finally, the microbiological stability

The second ‘Nordic Beer’ conference – and the last as a part

achieved by hopping? What does the practical experience

of the GUDP network project – will probably take place in the

thus far tell us? Does the replacement of the hops with

spring of 2016 as a sort of presentation of the outcome of this

other ingredients challenge the existing perception amongst

project. It is obviously up to the GUDP-supported network

consumers of what beer is?’

to decide on the details of this conference, but it may be expected that it will be a lot more focused on inviting in and

It is beyond the scope of this summary article to detail the

communicating to the outside world, as compared to this one,

results of the workshops and the ensuing discussions in plenum

which was rather ‘geeky’ and focused on engaging the members

of their presentations of these results, but we will surely be

of the value chain to work together to achieve as many of the

able to cover these results and discussions – either as they

objectives of the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement as possible.

were presented at the conference or after the ideas have been followed up by actual projects, research or brewing – in future articles in the SBR.

24

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

Anders Kissmeyer

FIRST CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER, 7–8 NOVEMBER ARTICLE 2014

25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW PART 1

F R O M ‘ D R A F T M A G A Z I N E ’ , S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 1 4 V I A ‘ W E E K LY P I N T. C O M ’

Which beers out there are the best? A question that we as brewers often ask ourselves, and most certainly a question that we very often get from other people. Maybe years back we felt equipped to answer the question, and maybe some of us still do. But for the rest of us, the extreme and exciting pace with which new breweries – and not least new beers – appear on the scene makes this question remain noisily unanswered. ‘Ratebeer. com’ tells us what the beer geeks say about this, but we all know that there are other opinions. So, here’s an update as seen through the eyes of the US ‘Draft Magazine’. The list is interesting as not just a list of 25 less than 5-year old breweries they think we should all know, but the short introductions of each brewery given – by themselves and particularly when accumulated – form a very saying and fascinating look into what these breweries are doing. This will enable the thoughtful reader to see the trends in American craft brewing – still, and possibly more than ever – the place to look for cutting edge innovation and creativity. We have divided the list into three, bringing you the first part now and the last two in the first two issues of the SBR in 2015.

When it comes to beer, there’s a lot of talk about bubbles

100-point Serenity, for starters: The 100-percent Brettanomyces

– and we don’t mean carbonation. By the latest stats, the

beer demonstrates Wicked Weed’s prowess as one of the most

number of breweries in the United States has nearly doubled

skilled Brett handlers around. A second production facility

from 1,625 in 2010 to 3,040 today. Not everyone’s excited;

is in the works, and this fall, the brewery went all-in with the

at the last Craft Brewers Conference, Brewer’s Association

opening of The Funkatorium, a separate barrelhouse and bar

director Paul Gatza shared woeful tales of tasting bad new

dedicated to wild beers, with the likes of Black Angel cherry

beers, followed by a stern warning to fledgling breweries:

sour and Oblivion sour red constantly rotating on 12 taps and

“Don’t f— it up.” These 25 breweries are not yet five years old,

an upcoming vintage bottle menu.

but they definitely aren’t f—ing it up; in fact, they’re making craft beer better than they found it. Innovative, creative and

SAN DIEGO | Societe Brewing

passionate, they more importantly set the standard for quality.

Founders Travis Smith and Douglas Constantiner both started

Some are industry vets who know how to do things right;

their brewing careers with cheap kits, the kind that produce more

others are newbies who figured it out in short order. All of

passion than good pints. But no matter. The sparks from those

them should be on your radar.

early awkward batches fanned into bonfires, with both future colleagues landing junior-level stints at the likes of Russian River,

ASHEVILLE, N.C. | Wicked Weed Brewing

Green Flash and – where they’d eventually meet – The Bruery.

Still one of Asheville’s best-kept secrets, brothers Luke and Walt Dickinson launched this downtown brewery in latez 2012 with

Intoxicated by the voodoo of deeply flavorful brews like Rogue’s

a focus on bold, hoppy beers and rustic farmhouse ales. Now

Chocolate Stout, Constantiner started thinking seriously about

that bottles are trickling out, they’re poised to become one of

bailing on his lucrative banking career in New York while

the most talked-about breweries on the East Coast. Why? The

taking Siebel Institute classes online, while Smith was soaking

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

25

25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW – PART 1

up experience from the likes of Moonlight’s Brian Hunt and

once in the year; focuses heavily on barrel-aging and Brett; and

Russian River’s Vinnie Cilurzo. In 2009, Constantiner moved

usually doesn’t touch stainless steel until it’s in the bottling tank.

to North County, San Diego, and landed The Bruery gig. Soon

The results are stars like Bitter Monk, a dry-hopped Belgian IPA

Smith and Constantiner formed a friendship over pints, and

aged in chard barrels with Brett. Up next: new brews from his

hatched plans for a place of their own.

coolship as early as summer 2015.

Their joint move to hop-happy San Diego seemed a late entry

ARDMORE, PA. | Tired Hands Brewing

into a super-crowded, IPA-saturated marketplace, but Societe’s

He earned his chops at iconic East Coasters Weyerbacher and

brainy, lighthearted approach – and great beers – resonated

Iron Hill, but in 2011, Jean Broillet IV struck out on his own,

with locals, with word traveling fast around the American

bringing some of the country’s most creative brews to the Mid-

West. Societe’s ultra full-flavored beers are organized in four

Atlantic. Situated in a cute stretch of canopied brick storefronts,

categories: Out West (read: IPA, IIPA), Old World (Belgian

the brewery and tasting room is where Broillet has already

pales; saison; golden strongs), Stygian (stouts referencing the

churned out 300 unique recipes, but HopHands (an ultrajuicy

underworld’s River Styx), and Feral (sour and wild brews).

pale ale) and the rye/oat/wheat/barley SaisonHands are the

Focused and trend-forward, the formula is not only working,

anchors. Here-and-gone brews like Bob, a fennel-and-cherry

it’s flying. Societe (now up to 18 full-time employees) is about

brewed pale ale, have so captured beer geeks’ imaginations,

to double again for the second consecutive year, adding new

RateBeer.com named Tired Hands a Best New Brewer in 2013.

fermenters and a small bottling line, mainly for sours.

The brewery’s building out a new facility just a block down the road, which will up its output tenfold.

“Oh my God, it’s incredible. We’re just trying to keep up with local demand,” Constantiner says. “That’s why we started down here; nobody’s new to beer. Karl Strauss, Stone and Ballast Point paved the way for us. Now we can’t keep anything on tap.” Not bad for a guy that started with a $50 Mr. Beer kit.

Photo © Tyler Fitzpatrick, Mystic Brewery.

CHELSEA, MASS. | Mystic Brewery Anchorage’s Gabe Fletcher / Andre C. Horton.

Helmed by fermentation scientist Bryan Greenhagen, Mystic takes a beaker approach to flavor. Inside the brewery’s

ANCHORAGE, ALASKA | Anchorage Brewing

Fermentorium, he takes wort the brewery makes at nearby

The day we caught up with Anchorage owner Gabe Fletcher,

Mercury Brewing and ferments it with yeast from a variety of

he was about to pick up Evil Twin Brewing impresario Jeppe

sources (Maine blueberries and Vermont grapes among them)

Jarnit-Bjergsø at the airport; the next day, the two brewers were

to inoculate a range of Belgian- and English-inspired beers.

going to fish, then brew a beer and ferment it in the woods.

Sourcing as many local ingredients as possible and fermenting

Fletcher admits that at Anchorage, he “does everything the hard

with indigenous yeasts, it’s one of the few breweries attempting a

way.” After 12-plus years at Midnight Sun, he started Anchorage

true native ale born from the North American countryside. This

with only specialty beers in mind: Every one takes at least three

summer, the brewery opened its artisanal beer café, bringing

months (and as much as a year) to complete; is released only

saisons, tavern ales and charcuterie to the Boston ’burbs.

26

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW – PART 1

ST. LOUIS | Perennial Artisan Ales

aging, barrel-aging and barrel fermentation.” It took King a

Phil Wymore had an impressive career as Goose Island’s

year to put out his first beer, and only 70 barrels are currently in

cellar master and head brewer at Half Acre, so in 2011, when

production. He has more than 100 barrels stashed in a space he

he tapped Cory King, a homebrewer with no professional

rents at Perennial, housing wild ales and saisons that are bottled

experience, to become the brewer at his new brewery, Perennial

in tiny, coveted batches and earn high marks – even perfect

Artisan Ales, even King was surprised. “I got very lucky; but at

scores – with reviewers and drinkers alike.

the same time, I was really stalking him,” King laughs.

King and Wymore have their fingers on the pulse of where craft is now. Perennial’s flagships lean Belgian, with a saison, a Belgian pale ale and a Belgian ale with Brett, but foodie seasonals – including a squash-infused brown ale, a walnut dunkelweisse, and a stout with cacao nibs, ancho chiles, cinnamon sticks and coffee beans –are introducing wholly new flavors into beer. That stout, by the way, is called Abraxas, and it put Perennial on the map, taking silver in the experimental category at Chicago’s Festival of Barrel-Aged Beers in 2012, then gold this year in the same category; it also happens to be one of King’s homebrew recipes that he brought to the brewery. As an industry vet, Wymore had an inkling about how the story of a talented brewer with an MBA might unfold.

“

PHIL CAME TO ME AND SAID, ‘YOU’RE GOING TO LEAVE ME ONE DAY, AREN’T YOU?’” SAYS KING. WYMORE STARTED TO SHOW KING THE ROPES OF RUNNING HIS OWN BREWERY, BUT SIX MONTHS LATER APPROACHED HIM WITH A PROPOSITION: “HE SAID, ‘WHY DON’T YOU START YOUR BREWERY HERE?’

“

“Phil came to me and said, ‘You’re going to leave me one

day, aren’t you?’” says King. Wymore started to show King the ropes of running his own brewery, but six months later approached him with a proposition: “He said, ‘Why don’t you start your brewery here?’” … & Side Project Brewing Side Project is something like King’s gypsy brewery, except that he brews after-hours exclusively at his own 9-to-5 workplace.

“At Side Project, everything touches oak; my passion is oak-

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

27

ARTICLE

BASIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT – MASHING MASH SYSTEMS AND VESSELS: A BRIEF REVIEW – PART 3

B Y D R . G A R Y S P E D D I N G , A M B E R W E Y G A N D T, B S C . , A N D M AT T H E W L I N S K E , B S C . 1 , E - M A I L : G S P E D D I N G @ A L C B E V T E S T I N G . C O M 1

B R E W I N G A N D D I S T I L L I N G A N A LY T I C A L S E R V I C E S L L C ( B D A S , L L C )

In the series of articles on the Basic Quality Management of the brewing process by Gary Spedding et al., we have now reached the third and final part, focusing on the mash systems and vessels. Parts 1 and 2 – ‘The Purpose of Mashing’ and ‘Enzymes and Activities of Mashing: Producing the Wort Constituents’ – were published in SBR No. 1 and No. 2, 2014, respectively.

COMPOSITION AND DESIRABLE PROPERTIES

• Th e temperature program chosen by the brewer is critical

AND OUTCOMES OF EXTRACT AND WORT

for determining the quality of the resultant wort and the

FOLLOWING MASHING  A SUMMARY

process efficiency of this stage of the production. Getting the

• 75-80% of the grist weight is dissolved or extracted during

pH of the mash to pH 5.5-5.6 or so gives a better attenuation

mashing and the wort composition is very dependent on the

(during fermentation), a more extensive breakdown of protein,

mashing procedure.

a reduction in viscosity, a better runoff (lautering) and a

• Sugars – constitute 61-65% total extract in typical 10-12 °Plato worts establishing the normal attenuation limit (real degree

protective effect against a big increase in color during wort boiling.

attenuation) at ca. 65%, and un-fermentable dextrins, proteins, gums and inorganic mineral substances make up the rest of the

With these few notes in mind we can now look briefly at mashing

total extract.

regimes and mash systems.

• Th e proportions of sugars and dextrins aff ect the course of fermentation and the quality of the beer. Carbohydrates

MASH PRO CESS, VESSELS AND SYSTEMS

produced include glucose, fermented first, maltose, the main

After learning about the key reactions that take place in mashing,

fermentable sugar, maltotriose and dextrins which are not

especially those catalyzed by enzymes and temperature regimes

fermented. Maltotriose can be fermented by top fermentation

to maximize wort yields, the choice of a suitable mashing

strains but not until all the maltose has been utilized.

program is essential for the production of quality beer and for

• Mashing-in at 62-63°C (144-145°F) can yield the highest

the development of new beer types. Utilizing the principles of

possible maltose content and highest attenuation – maltose-

mash chemistry dictates the conditions both for the design and

rich worts ferment more quickly and hold yeast longer in

operation of mash systems. Several types of mash vessels are

suspension.

28

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

BASIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT – MASHING, PART 3

available, and these are fully described from a historical and an

into a gel-like substance with negative effects on filtration. In

engineering perspective elsewhere*.

conflict with this is the requirement for intensive mixing and blending, and the ability to raise the temperature rapidly and

The mash tun is the simplest device for mashing and wort

homogeneously while avoiding burning onto heating surfaces.

preparation. In this situation, mash conversion and wort

Thus, the interaction of heating jackets and agitators is critical to

separation take place respectively in and from one vessel and are

good performance. Table 3 points out some considerations for

distinguished from the mash mixing and incubation vessels which

mash tun operations, engineering, construction and processing

are used only for mash conversion, with wort collection being

and describes key features of modern infusion mashing in a

carried out in a separate lauter tun or mash filter (considered

mash vessel. The table is derived from information in many of

in the next article on lautering). With the exception of pointing

the references*

out the dangers to final beer quality involved in mash pumping (oxygen intake etc.), this article concerns only mash conversion

SUMMARY

in a single vessel. Extensive details dealing with mash tun

Milling and mashing are regarded as very important processes

construction and engineering are covered elsewhere*.

towards producing a high quality beer. Mashing – an extension of the milling process – is, in and of itself, an incredibly complex

MASH VESSEL DESIGN AND CONSIDERATIONS.

topic and a brief outline only has been presented here. The main

Over the last two decades, there has been recognition, by brewers

details of mashing are, of course, covered in many books, treatises

and brewing equipment suppliers, of several key features needed

and original research papers – some of which are outlined in

for a modern successful mash conversion vessel*. The vessel

the selected references section and all of which have been drawn

is required to handle mash gently so as not to degrade particle

upon to generate a more concise picture of the overall process.

size, and to avoid oxygen pick-up. It is also now known that the

If mashing is not performed correctly, the consequences include

β-glucan can be released from cell wall material by shear forces

slower lautering, poor wort clarification, haze intensification in

TABLE 3. MASH VESSEL DESIGN General Design Features and Basic Operation Mash delivery and mixing: Minimizing shear forces during this transfer is very important to the performance of the mash separation stage, as the combination of oxygen pickup, beta glucan release, and particle size reduction reduces filtration rates*.

A diagram showing a typical mash tun schematic appears with the abstract, under the title header.

A typical mash conversion vessel is constructed of stainless steel and is cylindrical with a conical or dished bottom and with a large diameter agitator. This is bottom mounted and designed to run at slow speed, typically 10-40 rpm, and to mix effectively without the need for side-wall baffles which would be a source of unacceptable shear forces*.

• Mash tuns often have false bottoms with perforated plates. The void between the false and true bottom accounts for about 10–15% of the total capacity of the vessel. The false bottom incorporates a valve (or multiple valves) which, when open, allows automatic discharge of the spent grains when wort separation has been completed.

• Wetted mash is sometimes added to the mash tun, which has been preheated to a pre-determined temperature, via the top, usually using a mash mixer. [Pre-mashing systems may therefore be called for *] Before the mash is added, the false bottom is usually filled with hot liquor both to exclude air and to ensure that, when the mash is delivered, the tendency to compact is reduced. The presence of air in the mash causes most of the grist to float.

• For systems whereby mash is pumped into the vessel bottom during mash-in, the mash inlet nozzle is covered early reducing air uptake. This helps reduce later beer staling and leads to brighter wort color.

• Good mixing during final mash pumping for homogeneous entry into lauter tun. Ideally, no mash segregation (no clumping) involved. Good formation of filter layers leads to improved final mash pumping. Variable low-shear feed pump for final mash pumping to lauter tun with smooth pipe avoids shear forces. Reduced oxygen uptake in lauter tun due to initially slow pumping, reduced fines formation and gel formation*.

• Traditional mash tuns were fitted with movable rakes, which ensured that the grist formed an even bed. Rotation speeds in any mash bed being appropriate for vessel diameter and speed kept low to prevent shear forces on mash particulates affecting mash composition. These are considered not necessary in more modern mash tuns*.

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

29

BASIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT – MASHING, PART 3

CONTINUED Mash Heating and Temperature Control Designed for efficient heat transfer – today, often semi-circular pipes welded to the bottom and sides of the mash tun.

Often steel – the correct type of steel and alloy coatings should be used. Steam pipes engineered to prevent vacuum formation and pipe collapse*.

Once filled with mash to the desired depth, the process of mash conversion is allowed to proceed.

Although these vessels are associated with simple infusion mashing, various methods are used (and have been for many years) to increase the temperature of the mash. These include: • Direct steam injection into the mash or into the false base or circulation of wort via an external heat exchanger. Low heating - medium steam pressures prevent baking or burning of mash and/or formation of beer scale deposition on heating surfaces. This prevents flavor impairment – clean beers and no damage to mash.

• More commonly, attemperation of the mash is accomplished via a process known as underletting. Hot liquor is introduced into the base of the vessel underneath the false bottom and the mash is gently mixed and diluted and the temperature of the whole mash bed is adjusted accordingly.

• Mash tuns generally use thick mashes and comparatively deep beds and, in consequence, are capable of producing very bright worts. However the deep bed in these situations necessitates the use of coarse ground grists and turn-around times are long. Control of temperature is more difficult with thick/ deep bed mashes and, in consequence, extract recoveries can be modest, typically 85–95%, compared to laboratory mashes.

• Smooth polished heating surfaces – improve heat transfer - mash baking on heated surfaces reduced or prevented.

Oxygen issues and Oxidation during mashing*

Oxygen has important roles to play in brewing but also must be avoided in higher amounts during most operations.

• Air intake leads to darker worts and beer color, a less refined beer flavor and a decrease in beer flavor stability. Copper vessels are avoided as copper speeds up oxidation processes. Care is entertained with introducing mash from above and “splashing”, to avoid high stirrer speeds and to avoiding vortexing during pump transfer. Pumping mash in from the side or below to avoid turbulence is a modern way an SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . of reducing oxygen uptake during mash transfer (see above). Filling the base of the vessel30 with inert gas to displace air and so limit oxygen pick-up may also be used. Underletting (filling the bottom of the mash-tun or vessel with some deaerated water) is also now used to prevent oxygen uptake and damage as grist enters the vessel. Some oxygen is, however, important to the mash reactions. Low oxygen entrainment leads to improved degradation of β-glucan and therefore better starch breakdown, higher attenuations, faster lautering, paler wort color, less oxidation of polyphenols and a better flavor stability.

• Modern brewery system designs also ensure that all dust is contained, and oxygen pick-up is minimized - sources of oxygen at mashing are from grist and from mashing water. To reduce input of oxygen from these raw materials requires brewing liquor to be de-aerated and grist cases to be purged with inert gas (nitrogen or carbon dioxide); hardly any brewing companies go to this extreme*. Due to interest over the last few years in the impact of oxygen in the brew-house, some breweries introduce a small mash mixing vessel, from where the mash can be gently pumped into the conversion vessel from the bottom to minimize oxidative effects (see above).

Mashing – Controls and Records [An important final note on quality control]

Quality Assurance and Quality Control.

• Operators should record all details of each mash – amount of grist, amount of cast wort, times of rests, temperatures and other details as relevant. For multiple brews per day control may be handled by computers but quality of beer production relies on detailed records, standardized procedures and operator attention to detail.

fermentation, secondary fermentation ceasing early, and potential for off-flavors and odors in beers. Many topics from engineering

EDITOR’S COMMENT

to an appreciation of raw materials quality and enzyme chemistry

The authors of this article have a complete list of references

are essential to a complete understanding of mashing and the

for the background statements and results referred to in

myriad of controls needed to ensure a quality beer. The summary

the article (these are marked by an asterisk *). The list of

accounts of the subtopics presented here will, we hope, make entry

references can be obtained by contacting the authors at

to the more extensive coverage easier to digest (pun intended).

info@alcbevtesting.com

BASIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT – MASHING, PART 3

ABOUT THE AUTHORS Gary Spedding, Ph.D., Amber Weygandt, BSc., and Matthew Linske, BSc., represent a highly dedicated team, testing alcoholic beverages primarily, though not exclusively, for the US brewing and distilling industries. The three combined offer biochemistry, biology, microbiology and chemistry expertise along with backgrounds in beverage testing – beer, wine and distilled spirits, water testing, microbiology and sensory evaluation.

Spedding (Biochemistry – University of Leicester, UK), after directing the Siebel Institute of Technology Laboratories in Chicago, founded Brewing and Distilling Analytical Services LLC (BDAS, LLC) in 2003, where he applies analytical chemistry in testing beverages and beverage raw materials.

Linske, with a degree in bacteriology (University of Wisconsin-Madison) – and after learning the brewing process as an assistant brewer - joined BDAS, LLC in 2012 as lead microbiologist and yeast and microbe detective.

Weygandt , with a degree in biology and minor in chemistry (California State University Sacramento), joined BDAS, LLC in 2013 as lead chemist and GC Mass Spec guru, hunting down all manner of components in beverages. She also had prior experience in the water testing field and at a large winery laboratory in California.

The team supports brewers, distillers and winemakers in all manner of quality assurance and quality control.

Contact: info@alcbevtesting.com.

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SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

31

ARTICLE

BEER LOVERS GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL® IN COLORADO The GABF is possibly the biggest beer celebration on Earth. Not in terms of volumes of beer consumed, because in that context nothing matches the Munich Oktoberfest.

But there are other ways of celebrating beer than drinking ‘masses’ until you drop. The GABF is, as is probably well known to the readers of the SBR by now, both a public beer festival and a national, American beer competition constantly rivaling the World Beer Cup for the title of the largest beer competition in the world. Again this year, of course, the GABF boasted records all over.

INTRODUCTION

volunteer pourers. The new program was created to help bridge

The 33rd annual GABF took place from 2-4 October 2014 at

this gap. While the brewers are at their booths talking to people,

the Colorado Convention Center. It offered 49,000 attendees the

the geeks supplement by providing insight and information that

opportunity to sample almost 3,000 beers from approximately 700

attendees are thirsty to hear. Overall, this ensured that the 49,000

U.S. breweries.

festivalgoers - all tickets sold within a few hours – could further enjoy their GABF tasting experience, with access to more details

For more than 30 years, the Great American Beer Festival (GABF)

on what they’re sampling, and where it fits among the 90 beer

has been bringing great brewers, beers and beer lovers together.

style categories in the event’s beer competition.

The event has grown and evolved as beer consumers’ thirst for

“This year’s GABF was better than ever, with 14 percent more

quality and diversity continues to grow and is one of the largest

breweries participating in the festival (over last year) and more

ticketed beer festivals in the U.S. GABF captures the innovative

beers to choose from. The festival hall was expansive; coming

zest of the brewing community in the format of a public tasting in

in with a game plan for navigating the hall in itself made for a

which attendees are presented an opportunity to try a vast array

fun fan experience. Our fantastic volunteer servers played an

of beers from producers all across the country. Coupled with

integral role in assisting the brewers bring the experience to

a private competition and awards ceremony, the overall event

life for attendees,” said Nancy Johnson, event director, Brewers

showcases the U.S. as the most diverse brewing destination on the

Association. “The Beer Geek program is an opportunity to further

planet.

educate the volunteers, and by extension, festivalgoers, who came to Denver to sample and learn about the wide variety of great

THE PUBLIC BEER FESTIVAL

beers being made across the country.”

Presented by the Brewers Association, the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) brings together beer beginners, enthusiasts and

THE PROFESSIONAL BEER COMPETITION

geeks to bond over their common love of beer. As the festival

234 Breweries Celebrate Medals at 2014 Great American Beer

beer offerings continue to grow, this year’s GABF provided novice

Festival®

and seasoned beer lovers even more opportunities to learn about

Great American Beer Festival Winners

what they are imbibing, including support from the new “Beer

268 Professional Medals Awarded, 461 First-Time Participants

Geeks program”. This new tier of beer educators – comprising 50

Compete

committed beer lovers from throughout the country – supports and mentors the myriad of volunteer servers about the 3,500

The 2014 Great American Beer Festival (GABF) competition

beers being poured from more than 700 breweries during the

awarded 268 medals to some of the best commercial breweries in

festival. The biggest request from volunteers in past years has

the United States, plus three GABF Pro-Am medals. Presented

been to have more information on the beers they are pouring

by the Brewers Association, GABF is the largest commercial beer

and, simultaneously, the brewers continually request educated

competition in the world and a symbol of brewing excellence.

32

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

BEER LOVERS GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL ® IN COLORADO

Photo © Brewers Association

G R E AT A M E R I C A N B E E R F E S T I VA L – OVERALL HIGHLIGHTS

In its 28th year, the 2014 competition surpassed all previous

• 710 breweries in the festival hall

participation records. A full list of all the 2014 winners may be found at: www.greatamericanbeerfestival.com/the-competition/winners/.

To accommodate growth, this year’s GABF competition saw its biggest panel of judges ever, with 222 beer experts from 10 countries evaluating 5,507 commercial entries, plus 89 Pro-Am (collaborations between professional and home brewers) entries, with assistance from some 150 competition volunteers. Awardwinning brewers received prestigious gold, silver and bronze medals in 90 beer categories covering 145 different beer styles (encompassing subcategories), establishing the best examples of each style in the U.S. Winners were chosen from 5,507

competition entries (1633 percent more than in 2013) from 1,309

DINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

breweries, hailing from 50 states plus Washington, D.C. Based on the competition results, the BA gives awards in the categories “Brewery and Brewer of the Year Awards Very Small Brewing Company” and “Very Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were Draught Works and the Draught Works Brew Team); “Small Brewing Company” and “Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were Marble Brewery and Team Marble); “Mid-Size Brewing Company” and “Mid-Size Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were Devils Backbone Brewing Co.— Outpost and Devils Backbone Brewery Team); “Large Brewing Company” and “Large Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were AC Golden and the AC Golden Brewing Team); “Small Brewpub” and “Small Brewpub Brewer of the Year” (winners were Bastone Brewery and Rockne Van Meter); “Mid-Size Brewpub of the Year” and “Brewer” (winners were Brasserie Saint James and Josh & Matt Watterson) and finally “Large Brewpub” and “Brewer of the Year” (winners were Beachwood BBQ & Brewing and Julian Shrago & Ian McCall).

Sources: Brewer’s Association press releases and BRAUWELT International

• More than 3,500 beers served at the festival • 49,000 attendees • More than 3,200 volunteers • 1,309 breweries in the competition from 50 states plus Washington, D.C. • 5,507 beers judged (not including 89 Pro-Am competition entries), a 16 percent increase over 2013 • 90 style categories judged, plus the Pro-Am competition • 222 judges from 10 countries • 52 first-time entering breweries won awards.

• Four breweries tied for most medals won, with three medals each (10 Barrel Brewing Co., Barley Brown’s Brew Pub, Devils Backbone Brewing Co.–Outpost and Left Hand Brewing Co.) • The top five entered categories were: 1. American-Style India Pale Ale (279 entries) 2. Herb and Spice Beer (150 entries) 3. American-Style Pale Ale (145 entries) 4. American-Style Amber/Red Ale (140 entries) 5. Imperial India Pale Ale (135 entries) 3. American-Style Pale Ale (145 entries) Gold, silver and bronze medals were also awarded in the GABF Pro-Am competition, which pairs amateur brewers with professional brewers, who scale up the award-winning homebrew recipes. The medal winners, including the winning professional brewers and American Homebrewers Association® (AHA) member homebrewers are as follows: Gold: Bonnie Prince Charlie’s Scottish 80 Shilling, Bear Republic Brewing Co., Brewmaster: Team Bear Republic/Richard Norgrove, and AHA Member Michael Kelly; Silver: Spencer Pale Ale, Kokopelli Beer Co., Brewmaster: Kokopelli Brew Crew, and AHA Member Daniel Christensen; Bronze: I Wanna Rauch!, Springfield Brewing Co., Brewmaster: Ashton Lewis & Bruce Johnson, and AHA member Keith Wallis.

ARTICLE

ORGANIC MALTS

– DIFFERENT FROM CONVENTIONAL? B Y S A N N A K I V E L Ä , E - M A I L : S A N N A . K I V E L Ä @ V I K I N G M A LT. C O M

Together with the common consumer lifestyle food trends, organic beers have also gained some market share over the last couple of years. This has been strongly led by the craft brewers, but also some bigger players have followed. In the early days, the availability of the desired raw materials has been an obstacle to organic brewing, forcing the maltsters to make a bigger effort to develop malts that live up to the brewers’ high quality expectations. Sanna Kivelä from Finnish/Swedish Viking Malt leads us into the issue, based on a study of Finnish malting barleys.

WHAT IS ORGANIC?

controlled with crop rotation, good care of plant waste and

According to the European Commission definition, organic

choice of well-adapted and resistant varieties.

farming is an agricultural system that seeks to provide fresh, tasty and authentic food while respecting natural life-cycle

FARMING ORGANIC BARLEY

systems. In plant production, this generally means wide crop

In Finland, maltsters together with other stakeholders have,

rotation, strict limits on use of chemical synthetic pesticides

with success, been active in recent years in encouraging

and synthetic fertilizers, absolute prohibition of the use of

farmers to start growing organic malting barley. The start

GMO, taking advantage of on-site resources such as livestock

was challenging: generally it was said that barley is the most

manure for fertilizer and choosing plant species adapted to

difficult plant to grow in organic farming. Barley’s rhythm

local conditions and resistant to diseases.

of growth is fast, and nitrogen has to be available in the start of the growing period, which is a challenge with organic,

It is said that organic farmers respect the nature through a

typically slow-releasing fertilizers. It was also said that barley’s

responsible use of energy and natural resources, maintenance

competitiveness against weeds is not that good because it’s not

of biodiversity and regional ecological balance, enhancement

shading. So the challenge was there to be taken.

of soil fertility and maintenance of water quality. Processors of organic foods have the same goals with the following principles:

According to these challenges with a troublesome reputation

strict restriction of which additives and processing aids are used,

among farmers, there was only limited field data available to

strict restriction of chemically synthesized inputs and prohibition

be studied when selecting the best malting barley varieties to

on the use of GMOs. Governmental control of certified organic

grow organically. In the organic agricultural system, biotic

production through the entire chain is strict, and documentations

and abiotic stresses have to be overcome by growing the

and licenses are required to act in the organic food chain.

appropriate, well-adapted varieties with good farming practice.

Still, there is no room to compromise on the quality of the

For cultivation of malting barley, organic farming systems mean

product. In the last couple years, several field trials for this

reaching the good barley yield together with malting quality,

purpose have been organized. Knowledge of organic farming

low protein, good germination, kernel size and high hygienic

of malting barley has increased with trials but, first of all, in

quality without the help of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. As

practical farming. Knowledge has increased, and so have the

a fertilizer, green manure grass, livestock manure and processed

production and the fame of malting barley as a choice of a crop

animal waste is used. Weeds are treated mechanically and kept

to grow in organic farms.

under control with wide crop rotation, which is also taking care of a good growth ability of the soil together with good water

In Finland, we grow malting barley in the northern-most

management and natural liming materials. Plant diseases are

growing areas in the world. With Nordic crop conditions and

34

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

ORGANIC MALTS – DIFFERENT FROM CONVENTIONAL?

ORGANIC BARLEY CROPS IN FINLAND 2006-2009, 2011-2013 (TIKE) MILL. KILOS 14

inaccurate compared to synthetic fertilizers, and it could cause too-high protein levels for malting use of barley. But the good growth condition of the soil, healthy crops and appropriate crop conditions guaranteeing good yield seem to keep the protein levels in the optimum in spite of the fertilizers used.

12 10

FA C T B O X

8

Pre-sample data of conventional and organic Harbinger

6

crops 2014 and 2013 (in brackets):

4

2

Germination %

97.6 (96.3)

95.2 (97.5)

Protein %

10.5 (10.5)

10.5 (10.2)

Screening I+II %

88.9 (95.5)

83.5 (94.5)

0 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

conventional organic

Typical values of production malt batch analysis Harbinger crop 2013:

hard winters, there is an advantage that we don’t have as much

conventional organic

problem with plant pests as in warmer climates. First of all, this

Extract % dm.

82.5 - 83.0

82.5 - 3.0

is an advantage in organic farming, in which use of synthetic

Protein %

10.5 - 11.0

10.8 - 11.0

pesticides is not allowed.

Kolbach index %

41 - 45

40 - 46

Friability %

85 - 91

88 - 91

For northern conditions, the adaptation to different growing conditions, disease resistance, fast nutrient uptake ability and

As it can be seen from the fact box with the quality data,

competitive ability are the goals to achieve in breeding malting

quality-wise, it does not really matter if the malt is produced

35 are all in favour of the organic farming barley varieties, and they

DINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

from organic or conventional barley. If the quality of the barley

system as well. In Finland, Harbinger, a malting barley variety

is high, that translates into a similar high quality as finished

from the Finnish breeder Boreal Plant Breeding Ltd., has gained

malt. So the choice of organic malt instead of conventional is

the most success in organic farming of malting barley. Farmers

not based on basic malt quality parameters.

have been satisfied with the yield, and the quality has been satisfactory under rather different crop conditions.

SUMMARY Within recent years, organic farming of malting barley has

BARLEY AND MALT QUALIT Y

increased and is mostly effective and professional with sufficient

The results of the malting barley pre-sample analysis show that

growing area per farm unit, which is requiring farm size to be

there is not a big difference in malting barley quality between

large enough for malting barley to fit in the crop rotation. Under

organic and conventional farming. Crop conditions during 2014

these circumstances, farmers are able to produce suitable batch

in Finland were very challenging for kernel size. The start for

sizes with pure varieties, and the supply of organic malting barley

the crops was challenging because of the cold and wet weather

has stabilized. This development in the supply side has made it

in June. There was high pressure from plant diseases, and barley,

possible for the maltster to produce high-quality malts of the

with short roots, was suffering due to the excess of water. July was

uniform, high-quality organic malting barley.

record warm with high heat, and the weakest crops were maturing too early. This can be seen in screenings both in conventional and

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

organic barley samples. In organic farms, it’s even tougher to fight against the extreme crop conditions without a help of synthetic

Sanna joined Viking Malt in 2012 and, since then, she

plant protection. Still, the results are comparable.

has been involved in all kinds of malting barley-related issues. One of her main topics has been the development

The expectation was that the biggest challenge in organic farming

of organic malting barley cultivation in Finland. By

of malting barley would be reaching the optimum protein level.

training, she is an agronomist (M.Sc).

With organic fertilizers, the release of nitrogen is slow and

ARTICLE

DUTCH LAGER STYLES 1870 - 1960 PART 2

R O N PAT T I N S O N , E - M A I L : K L J @ B R E W I N G S C H O O L . D K

Here, we continue with Part 2 of beer historian and writer Ron Pattinson’s article on historic Dutch Lager Styles in the context of other brewing traditions in mainly Central Europe from which the Dutch Lager tradition arose. Ron is a valued and loyal contributor of the ‘Beer Styles’ article series in the SBR, and his entertaining and very enlightening article has been split into three. This is Part 2; Part 1 was brought to you in SBR No. 2, 2014 and we will have Part 3 in the SBR No. 1, 2015.

HEINEKEN L AGERS IN THE 1880S

1893 PRICE-FIXING AGREEMENT

From this next price list, we can see that Heineken also

Beer type

Max. º Balling

Minimum price

Hollandsch Bier

9º

7 cents

20

Lager Bier

11º

18

Pilsener

15º

9

Dortmunder

15º

14 cents

19º

20 cents

produced a higher-strength pale Lager in the 1890s, Export.

HEINEKEN RETAIL PRICES IN 1895 Beer

Export

Nieuw Hollandsch Bier

Per bottle (cents)

Münchener Pilsener Gerste

Tafelbier

20

Extra Lager Bier

12

Münchener

Brown Stout

Source: Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad 22nd February 1895, page 4.

Extra Stout

9º

11º

15º

16º

per litre 7 cents

9 cents

9 cents

9 cents

9 cents

16 cents

Source: ‘Korte Geschiedenis der Heineken's Bierbouwerij Maatschappij N.V. 1873 - 1948’" (p.421, 422)

It’s worth noting that these are maximum gravities. In practice, Pilsener would have been well below 15º Plato. Dortmunder, on the other hand, with its minimum price of 14 cents, was probably closer to that maximum. Lager Bier and Extra Lager Bier were presumably lower-strength pale or dark Lagers.

Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad, 22nd February 1895, page 4.

1900 - 1914 My guess would be that the Export and Münchener were both

Despite the success of these new concerns, Dutch beer

close to 14º Plato, the Pilsener around 13º, Gerste 12º Plato and

production was stagnant at around 1.5 million hectolitres

Tafelbier – which looks like what was later called Lagerbier -

annually in the years leading up to WWI1.

10º Plato.

A range of Lager styles were produced, in a variety of strengths L AGER ST YLES OF THE 1890S

and colours. At this point, Pils still did not have the dominant

Cartel forming amongst brewers is nothing new. They were at it

position it later acquired. That’s demonstrated by a quick look

back in the 1890s. Luckily for me, because the draught agreement

at Heineken’s brewing records. I won’t claim this is a definitive

tells us a lot about what was being brewed in the 1890s.

breakdown of the relative amounts of each type of beer brewed ‘A History of Brewing in Holland 900 - 1900’, by Richard W. Unger, 2001, page 372.

1

36

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

DUTCH LAGER STYLES 1870 - 1960, PART 2

by Heineken. It’s just what’s on four random pages that I

HEINEKEN’S WHOLESALE PRICES 1904  1911

photographed. But it does give some idea of the proportions.

That wasn’t Heineken’s complete range of beers. It looks as if there were some beers which were only produced in Amsterdam:

On every single page, around half of the brews were of Gerste.

Second most popular, by a long way, was Lager, a lowergravity Pale Lager that was the equivalent of Winterbier or Schenkbier.

HEINEKEN WHOLESALE PRICES 1904 - 1914 Beer type

Cents per litre

Gerstebier

8

Lager

HEINEKEN ROTTERDAM PRODUCTION BY TYPE IN 1911 Type

Gerste, Münchener and Export.

No. of

Size of

Total

% of total

brews

brew (HL)

amount

Lager

226

270

61,020

36.13%

Gerste

356

220

78,320

46.37%

Beiersch

28

200

5,600

3.32%

Pils

107

200

21,400

12.67%

Bok

17

150

2,550

1.51%

Total

734

168,890

Source: Heineken brewing record held at the Amsterdam Stadsarchief, document number 834-1752.

Rotterdamsche Gerste

8

11

Münchener

14

Beiersch (donker)

13

Export

Pilsner (licht) Bock

14 13 15

Source: 1904-1914 - ‘Korte Geschiedenis der Heineken's Bierbouwerij Maatschappij N.V. 1873 - 1948’ (p.218)

My guess would be that the Gerste was a lower gravity version of the Gerste brewed in Rotterdam, that is, a dark, bottom-

It’s clear that Pils was still very much a minority drink and that

fermenting beer which wasn’t lagered. Export must be a type of

Beiersch was already a marginal product.

Dortmunder, with a gravity of around 14º Plato. Münchener, I suppose, was a stronger version of Beiersch, again with a gravity

The share of Bok was undoubtedly lower as I’ve based these

of around 14º Plato.

figures on the number of brews of each type at a certain point in the brewing year, in this case June. It ran up until the end of

COMPARATIVE PRICES IN 1911

September, so while all the brews of Bok appear in the figures,

In this 1911 price list, you can see the relative prices of different

only about 75% of those for the other styles do.

types of Lager:

This is an overview of the beers Heineken Rotterdam brewed in 1911:

HEINEKEN ROTTERDAM BEERS IN 1911 Bier

OG

FG

App. degree

%

Colour

Balling Balling attenuation ABV

Kg hop/hl

Pils

13.2

4.15

68.56%

4.8

6

0.20

Lager

9.8

3.3

66.33%

3.4

9

0.16

Gerste

12

5

58.33%

3.7

13.5

0.18

Beiersch

13.1

5.3

59.54%

4.2

13

0.18

Bok

16.7

7.5

55.09%

5

14

0.20

Source: Heineken brewing record held at the Amsterdam Stadsarchief, document number 834-1752.

Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad, 16th September 1911, page 4.

The poor degree of attenuation is typical of early Lagers. Even the Pils is less than 70% attenuated. You’ll see how this changed over the course of the 20th century.

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

37

DUTCH LAGER STYLES 1870 - 1960, PART 2

Pilsener was, relative to its alcoholic strength, the worst value

More than half of all Dutch breweries closed: from 522 in 1910

for money, as this table demonstrates:

to 223 in 1920. The majority of those that closed were small affairs in Limburg and Nord-Brabant – 243 out of 299. Many

PRICE RELATIVE TO ABV Beer

ABV

price per

cents per

% cheaper

bottle

1% ABV

than Pils

had still been top-fermenting, which effectively gave a further boost to Lager brewing in Holland.

Gerste

3.7

11

2.97

26.14%

Amstel slashed their range to just two beers, Pilsener and a dark

Lager

3.4

9

2.65

41.67%

Lager4. They also started using rice, maize, tapioca and sugar in

Pils

4.8

18

3.75

addition to malt5.

Source: Advert in Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad, 16th September 1911, page 4.

This is Part 2 of 3 of Ron’s article on the history of Dutch Lager.

Pils was 26% more expensive per unit of alcohol.

Part 1 was brought to you in SBR No. 2, 2014 and Part 3 will come in SBR No. 1, 2015.

“

PILSENER WAS, RELATIVE TO ITS ALCO-

EDITOR'S COMMENT

HOLIC STRENGTH, THE WORST VALUE FOR MONEY

The author of this article has a complete list of references for all quotes and actual data given in this article. The

“

WWI

list of references can be obtained by contacting Ron Pattinson (patto1ro@xs4all.nl).

The war had a devastating effect on Dutch brewing, despite The

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Netherlands being neutral. The unrestricted German U-Boot campaign that began in 1917 caused havoc with international trade. Dependent on imported barley, Dutch brewers began

Ron Pattinson joined CAMRA on his 18th birthday and

to run out of raw materials. Despite drastic reductions in the

has been obsessed with all things beer ever since, but

strength of beer2, by 1918, production was down to just half of

particularly the history of British beer. Over the past 15

the pre-war level at 0.72 million hectolitres .

years he has performed extensive research and published

3

the results on his website, in his blog “Shut up about

DUTCH BREWERIES BY PROVINCE 1890

1900

1910

1920

1930

Noord-Brabant

241

214

191

72

65

Gelderland

42

31

27

13

10

Zuid-Holland

35

25

24

14

-

Noord-Holland

22

19

17

12

10

Zeeland

36

33

31

25

25

Utrecht

12

7

7

4

3

Overijssel

10

9

7

3

3

Friesland

2

2

2

2

2

Groningen

20

16

14

1

1

Drenthe

1

1

1

0

0

Limburg

236

216

201

77

66

Total:

657

574

522

223

198

Barclay Perkens” (!) (barclayperkins.blogspot.com/) and in a series of books. Ron lives in Amsterdam.

Sources: Nederlands Etiketten Logboek, 1998

2 3

‘Amstel, het Verhaal van ons Bier 1870 - Heden’ by Peter Zwaal, 2010, pages 59 and 66.

Bier in Limburg, Sef Derkx, 1990.

38

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

4 5

‘Amstel, het Verhaal van ons Bier 1870 - Heden’ by Peter Zwaal, 2010, page 59.

‘Amstel, het Verhaal van ons Bier 1870 - Heden’ by Peter Zwaal, 2010, page 66.

ARTICLE

NEW NATURAL HERB & SPICE EXTRACTS AND NATURAL BLOSSOM FLAVOURS ON THE MARKET

Flavouring ingredients have always been the basis for positioning soft drink products as unique, but in later years these also have attracted increased interest from brewers who wish to expand the universe of beer beyond malt, yeast and hops. The examples are already abundant, and in our region the number of flavoured beers is bound to explode with the proliferation of the ‘Nordic Beer’ ideas. We are therefore happy to bring this short article from one of the leading suppliers of flavourings for beverages of all types, Doehler.

The large manufacturer of flavourings for the beverage industry,

the cosmetics, fragrance and pharmaceuticals industries that knew

Doehler, is now meeting the rapidly increasing demand for

how to use these properties for emotional product positionings.

botanical flavours in the food and beverage industry with a new

Blossoms have recently been rediscovered for culinary indulgence

portfolio of natural herb & spice extracts and natural blossom

– and not only in haute cuisine. Food and beverages with a hint of

flavours. Although herbs and spices are found in every kitchen

rose, lavender or hibiscus are all real trendsetters today. 2013 saw

these days, they still offer plenty of scope for new and attractive

around 70 new soft drinks with the taste of rose alone, introduced

taste creations. That is why herb and spice notes are becoming

to the global market – an increase of over 100% compared to

increasingly popular in every segment of the food and beverage

the previous year. Hibiscus and elderflower have enjoyed similar

industry – including some previously untouched ones – and they

success. ‘Blossom flavours also unlock exciting product concepts

top the list of trendy flavours. There are no limits to the creative

– and not only in the wellness segment or in products targeted

options! The wide variety of products ranges from Prosecco

at women. As a provider of integrated solutions, Doehler has

with a strawberry-basil taste to refreshing soft drinks with a fine

developed inspirational product concepts for the beverage and

rosemary note.

food industry. The company's product developments are always built around a multi-sensory product experience,’ explains Daniel

‘It is easy to explain the reason behind the success of these

Courtehoux.

flavours. For instance, cardamom from the Himalayas, oregano from Italy or coriander from Morocco all transport consumers

ABOUT D OEHLER:

to far-away worlds of taste. This results in both interesting taste

Doehler (www.doehler.com) is a global producer, marketer and

combinations and great product positionings,’ says Daniel

provider of technology-based natural ingredients, ingredient

Courtehoux, Head of Business Unit Flavours at Doehler. However,

systems and integrated solutions for the food and beverage industry.

not every type of herb and spice is suitable for producing

The product portfolio ranges from flavours, colours, health &

authentic, natural extracts and flavours – no matter how tasty

nutrition ingredients, cereal ingredients, dairy ingredients, speciality

they may be when fresh. For this reason, Doehler has identified

ingredients, fruit & vegetable ingredients to ingredient systems.

the very best raw materials for its products. At its own facilities, the company thus obtains a wide range of premium quality

Headquartered in Darmstadt/Germany, Doehler has 23 production

extracts characterised by a particularly pure and intense taste.

sites, 48 sales offices and application centres as well as sales activities

The portfolio contains FTNS (FTNS = from the named source)

in over 130 countries and more than 3,500 employees.

flavours from oregano, rosemary, coriander, caraway, cardamom, marjoram, chilli, pepper, sage, thyme and basil.

F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N

The new Doehler botanical range also includes a selection of

Doehler GmbH

Diana Wolfstädter (PR)

natural blossom flavours such as rose, violet, lavender, lotus

Riedstraße 7-9

Phone +49 6151 306-1205

blossom and hibiscus. In many cultures, flowers are a symbol of

64295 Darmstadt / Germany

Fax +49 6151 306-8205

beauty, naturalness and health. In the past, it was predominantly

www.doehler.com

diana.wolfstaedter@doehler.com

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

39

BRAUBEVIALE14

BRAUBEVIALE14 A GREAT SUCCESS Some 37,000 experts – as many as a good 4,000 more than in 2012 – visited BrauBeviale 2014, this year’s most important capital goods exhibition in the beverage industry.

P E N TA I R LATEST GENERATION BMF-18 PRODUCT LINE In recent years Pentair’s BMF technology has gained significant market share as an alternative to diatomaceous earth (DE). Since the introduction of Pentair’s BMF in 2002, all major brewing groups have installed BMF

• More visitors: some 37,000 experts, 40 per cent international

technology and there are more than 70 worldwide

• Almost 43,000 m of space: larger than ever before

references. 70 million hectolitres of beer are filtered by

• Trend theme Culture of Craft Brewing just what the sector

BMF each year.

2

wants Pentair is continuously working on further improving With 42,781 m of display space, BrauBeviale 2014 was the

its advanced BMF system, which resulted in a BMF-

biggest in the over 50-year history of the event. 1,133 exhibitors

18 product line that sets new standards in efficiency,

– both world market leaders and newcomers – presented all

sustainability and smart design.

2

the ingredients for a successful beverage mix: high-grade raw materials, sophisticated technologies, efficient logistics and

40 SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW .

Pentair’s BMF-18 is now equipped with an increased

creative marketing ideas.

number of proven Pentair components and technologies.

Along with Südmo valves & components and Haffmans

SBR visited BrauBeviale 2014, and in the following you

quality control equipment, a CPM Sterile Filter, type

can read about three exciting exhibitors that was present in

PSF, is now standard equipment in the BMF’s carbon

Nuremberg and their new inventions.

dioxide (CO2) supply line. In addition, Pentair hygienic pumps have been integrated into the BMF-18. This enables Pentair to provide our customers a BMF solution that ensures even higher system security, along with advantages in Total Cost of Ownership.

W W W. P E N TA I R . C O M

Photo © Peter Brandi

BRAUBEVIALE14

BRAUBEVIALE14 IKADAN PLAST A/S

M I C R O M AT I C A N D K R O N E S BEVMATE: SIMPLE, SAFE AND FRESH

PRODUCTS AMONG THE PIONEERS IN THE

The project is a cooperation between Micro Matic and

EFFORT AGAINST CO 2 EMISSIONS

Krones and is about a brilliant idea for a one-way keg made of PET. The keg is compressed once manufactured

As never before, the reduction of CO2 emissions has

the world’s attention. In this matter, Ikadan Plast A/S is

and can be piled in several layers – up to 100 kegs in

at the forefront as they help their customers protect the

one covering box on a pallet – and is then ready for

environment.

transportation to the filler/brewery. Not until the keg is filled with beer, does it return to its original size, which is

At Brau Beviale, Ikadan Plast A/S presented their latest

20 litres. Then the filled kegs are transported to the end

addition in their product development – the unique,

user, for instance cafés, restaurants, bars and other outlets

eco-friendly disposable system for trays and pallets.

that serve draught beer.

Everything in the system is produced from 100% reusable plastic. It is included in existing systems after use and

Krones delivers the keg (BEVkeg) and filling system while

can be used again and again afterwards. Thus, the trays

Micro Matic developed the BEVmate, a machine that

or pallets should not be cleaned or returned when empty.

squeezes out the beer during compression of the keg, so

Other advantages with the system are that they are easy to

that you end up with an empty, compressed, pressureless

choose at the shops’ stockroom, they are easy to bring into

keg. It takes up a minimum of space and can easily and

the shop, it is easy for customers to pick from the system

simply be disposed of with the daily rubbish.

and it is easy to handle in relation to waste separation.

DINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

41

The one-way device used for the Flexi-Draft system is a

W W W. I K A B O X . D K

perfect match to the one-way keg, so in addition to the equipment to squeeze the keg, Micro Matic incorporated a one-way beer line, resulting in a complete system, in which the beer is in contact only with parts intended for one-way use.

W W W. M I C R O - M AT I C . C O M

W W W. K R O N E S . C O M

Photo © Peter Brandi

CALENDAR

CALENDAR

CALENDAR-EVENTS, EXHIBITIONS, FAIRS THE SCANDINAVIAN SCHOOL OF BREWING – COMING ACTIVITIES Diploma Master Brewer Courses

NEW DIRECTOR

Deadline Enrolment 2015

2015

SSB welcomes Bernt Skov Jensen as its appointed Interim Director.

Brewing 1

-

-

Bernt replaces Axel G. Kristiansen, who has been appointed

Brewing 2

2 February - 10 April

3 January

Deputy Director of B.Sc. engineering studies at the Danish

16 February - 13 March

17 January

Technical University (DTU).

Leadership Course

26 - 29 January

19 December 2014

Soft Drinks Technology

25 - 27 February

23 January

19 - 20 March

20 February

Hops tour to Bayern

14 - 16 September

14 August

Engineering from DTU, a Diploma Master Brewer from SSB and

Beer Flavour Session

11 November

9 October

an MBA from CBS. Bernt has extensive experience as a Brewing

Packaging (old M3) Professional Updates

Business Economy

Bernt is well-known at SSB, having served as a senior lecturer at SSB since the year 2000.

As for his background, Bernt has a M.Sc. in mechanical

Consultant, as a Production Director and as the Technical Director

Executive in Beverage Industry Supply Chains E1

9 - 13 March

6 February

for Coca-Cola Nordic Countries. We welcome Bernt, who gets

E2

18 - 22 May

6 February

a flying start; his first SSB activity taking place will be teaching

D1

8 - 12 June

8 May

D2

31 August - 4 September

8 May

The team at SSB expresses great gratitude to Axel for the fantastic

D3

12 - 13 November

8 May

cooperation. He will be missed both as a director and colleague. We

packaging technology in the Baltic countries with Axel in early

Diploma Craft Brewer

December 2014.

look forward to continuing cooperation with Bernt Skov Jensen.

Course for Commercial Managers Brewing Foundation

8 May

8 - 12 June

More information on www.brewingschool.dk

VOL 72 nOVEMBER 2014 .

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS REVIEW

3

SBR, CANNING QUALITY PRODUCT ON A IN THIS ISSUE: THE MASTER BREWER AND THE CONSUMER PREFERENCES ASSOCIATED WITH SMALL-SCALE LINE, DRINKTEC 2013, REVIEW, NORDIC EXPERIMENTAL BREWING, CONTEXT AND PERCEPTION OF COLLATIVE PROPERTIES, – MILLING AND MUCH MORE… THE HISTORY OF BRITISH LAGER, QUALITY MANAGEMENT

OCTOBER 2013 . VOL 70

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If you wish to subscribe, please contact: Benny Poulsen at 2 The Danish Brewers’ Guild Tel.: +45 3327 4556 E-mail: benny.poulsen.fct@carlsberg.dk

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29/10 2015

Special Issue: Craft Brewing

5/2015

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ISSN 1603-4635

Price: Per year, excluding VAT: Denmark: €40, Europe: €51, Rest of World: €61,50.

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Nordic by Nature Across the globe, flavour trends are moving fiercely and fast. Food and beverage producers of all shapes and sizes are striving to keep up with picky international palates in order to gain that rare competitive edge.

At Einar Willumsen, our mission is to help our customers develop and market exciting and innovative new taste experiences for consumers. With insight from the Nordic food tradition and outsight to the world, we transform today’s international trends into tomorrow’s most popular local food products.

visualization.dk

Learn more at ewflavours.com

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