Liguria, land of quality - The discovery of the Ligurian territory through its products by Turismo in Liguria / #LaMiaLiguria

.terragir.it

I.P.

Project co-ﬁnanced by the European Union

www

Agenzia Regionale per la Promozione Turistica “in Liguria” info@agenziainliguria.it www.turismoinliguria.it

Promotion of the territory for competitiveness and innovation in the rural transfrontier area

Liguria, land of quality The discovery of the Ligurian territory through its products

Grape harvest in the “Cinque Terre”

Index The objectives of Terragir

LiGuria, land of quality

P.D.O. Products - Protected Designation of Origin

Fruit and vegetable PRODUCTS

Livestock and dairy PRODUCTS

Other products of the hinterland and the woodland

Sea products

The Ligurian COOKING TRADITION

A TREAT TO the palate

Other regional agricultural products - Floriculture in the Liguria Region

The Extra Virgin Olive Oil “Riviera Ligure” The Genoese Basil P.G.I. Products - Protected Geographical Indication The Cured anchovies of the Ligurian Sea The Cheese focaccia from Recco - (next P.G.I.) T.G.I. Products - Typical Geographical Indication (next P.G.I.s) Terrazze dell’Imperiese - Colline Savonesi Colline del Genovesato - Golfo dei Poeti La Spezia C.D.O. products - Controlled Designation of Origin Rossese Dolceacqua - Ormeasco - Riviera Ligure di Ponente - Val Polcevera Golfo del Tigullio - Colline di Levanto - Cinque Terre - Colli di Luni

Publishing Info Publishing Project and Copyright on all rights reserved to the Regional Agency for Tourism Promotion “In Liguria”. Pictures: archive of the Agency “In Liguria”, image on p. 22 truffle “Archive of the Association Ligurian Truffle hunters and Truffle growers”, picture on p. 34 canestrello biscuit - M. Iosia, picture on p. 35 Agricultural and Nursery Gardening District of the Western coast - picture on p. 34 baci di Alassio - from the photographic archive of Alassio’s Town Hall, pictures on p. 32 bagnun - Bagnun Committee. Translation: Eurologos - Genova. Graphic project by Adam Integrated Communications - Turin - Print year 2011. Liability Notice: despite the accurate check of the contents, the Agency “In Liguria” does not take on any responsibility for the contents and the information provided. Data updated in June 2011.

www.turismoinliguria.it

The objectives of Terragir Project co-financed by the European Union

Cooperation at the heart of the Mediterranean

1) Definition of a common cross-border governance that, starting from the knowledge of the area, gets to the management of innovative policies at business level. The promoters of the rural system exchange and study best practices and tools of each territory in order to get to know and overcome difficulties and obstacles. Terragir wishes to promote the alignment of knowledge and skills, identifying our common future in the new form of governance (cross-border) of the area. 2) Ideal building of the cross-border itinerary not as a single continuous entity but as similar identities which can be found in all the territories of the Project. Starting from the existing reality and the exchange of experiences, you then act on the local production system in order to enhance and promote the already existing one. In this way you lay the foundations of the quality Territorial system, as well as organizing the local productions, planning the most appropriate and effective marketing platform. All this helps to define the example of itineraries of Cross-Border Flavours, aimed at supporting the competitiveness of productions at Mediterranean level.

Promotion of the territory for competitiveness and innovation in the rural transfrontier area within the Italy/France Cross Border Cooperation Programme “Marittimo” 2007-2013; in May 2009 the European Project TERRAGIR was born. It was created with the aim of innovating, through governance tools and actions, and to enhance the typical niche products linked to the rural reality of the cross-border territory.

Corniglia

Dolceacqua

But above all, it will be the evolved technological tools (iPhones - Navigators) which will allow the virtual surfing of the cross-border flavours of the itineraries and provide information on all the territory covered by the Project.

Trebbia Valley

Leader: Liguria Regional Authority

Province of Lucca

ODARC - Corsica

Province of Massa Carrara

Region of Sardinia

Province of Livorno

Province of Pisa

Province of Grosseto

.terragir.it

www 2

3) Enhancement of the identity of the rural productions of excellence, in order to be able to increase competitiveness in the cross-border territory. The new form of enhancement comes to life thanks to the improvement of the traditional promotion tools such as fairs, events, flea markets and through the use of I.T. technology. Ports, airports, stations and other places of transit will be the “gateways” to the rural areas; here “shop windows” will be placed, proper business and promotional statements.

Olivegroves

From the west to the east, located in different corners of the Liguria Region, these food and wine itineraries are recognized by the Regional Authority and are a proper guide to go into the search of the quality Liguria Region. They pass under the boughs of olive trees, they go up from the hills stretching to the sea up to the mountain tops and along the Ligurian coastline: the tastes and scents itineraries draw paths which lead to the discovery of traditional products and the hidden wealth of the Ligurian territory.

Liguria, land of quality Liguria: a long, narrow strip of land between an arch of mountains and a deep sea. Such a beautiful region, yet rough and wild; this land preserves natural beauties and traditions to be discovered; it has a wealthy agricultural and culinary heritage, with numerous products and typical dishes, of which 300 specialties are included in the national list of traditional food products.

The olive oil is mentioned by the Protected Designation of Origin; it is unmistakable thanks to being fragrant, fully flavoured, fruity but not intense, almost sweet, with the aftertaste of pine nuts or raw artichoke.

cultivated: the terraces that run for miles and miles along the whole region.

The Riviera Ligure extra virgin olive oil is made from the first pressing of the local varieties of olives (Taggiasca, Lavagnina, Razzola, Pignola, Colombaia, Rossese, Lantesca, Merlina, Mortina); it beautifully blends in with the products of the local cuisine, enhancing and strengthening the taste, without overpowering it.

In the Cinque Terre alone, thanks to the use of 8 million cubic meters of stone, 6,720 km of dry stone walls have been realized, equal to 2,000 hectares of farmland. Mount Saccarello

The Ligurian land does not lavish quantity but is generous with the quality of its products; their excellence can be noticed in the flower growing, horticulture, vine and especially olive tree growing.

The olive oil is the gold of the Liguria Region and its production is an art that requires sacrifice, skill and passion. Preserving the olives until the harvesting time and quickly delivering them to the oil mill; here the transformation process requires particular experience and care, in order to avoid that any distraction is reflected on the particularly delicate sensory properties of an olive oil which blends in perfectly with the local dishes and is the basic ingredient of the best known delicacies such as “focaccia”, “farinata”, pesto sauce, all sauces and dressings, pies, elaborated dishes such as stews and simple ones like boiled fish or salads.

Products which grow on a land that has no land; the difficult territorial morphology, which gives the landscape a unique and fascinating look, almost completely devoid of plains, apart from Albenga and Sarzana at the opposite ends; this has made it necessary to create areas to be

Olivegroves and dry stone walls of Liguria Vara Valley

Olive harvest

Speaking of products, let’s start from what is the leading sector of the Ligurian agriculture: floriculture, with about 75% of regional gross marketable production. Thanks to the complicity of the mild climate and the skills of the farmers, the provinces of Savona and Imperia, with their centres of excellence in the areas of Albenga and Sanremo, on the Riviera dei Fiori, saw the development of the first flower cultivations at the same time as the Italian Unification. Cut flowers like the buttercup, rose, mimosa, broom, the green foliage, potted plants such as daisies and aromatic herbs, and the terrific succulents are the pride of local producers, who are constantly striving after the innovation and product process. It is impossible to talk about the Liguria Region without mentioning the olivegroves and olive oil, the light and delicate one.

Basil deserves its own chapter: one of the most significant activities undertaken by the Liguria Regional Authority in recent years in the field of horticulture has been the varietal research that led to the enrolment of the Genoese basil in the list of products with Protected Designation of Origin denomination. The ocimun basilicum, from Asia Minor, has a name that already indicates its value: “basil” is derived from basilicum, the Latin translation of the Greek term βασιλικοσ meaning “regal”.

Dessication of the grapes on the roofs

garden products are the basis of local cuisine, which sees the triumph of the land over the sea: soups, savoury pies, stuffings, pickles; there are also vegetables in the stuffed pasta varieties, such as “ravioli” and “pansòti”, and stuffed meats such as the “cima”. The Ligurian cuisine is particularly “fragrant”, thanks to the use of many aromatic herbs, including marjoram.

Didascalia immagine

For centuries it was considered a plant with magic properties; it was picked according to sacred rituals; sacred even today, in Genoa and its surroundings, is the way it turns into pesto sauce in the marble mortar, using the olive wood pestle. A sauce mainly made of basil, pine nuts, olive oil, garlic, salt and grated cheese; the pesto sauce is the banner of Ligurian cuisine in the world, a dressing for fresh pasta like “trofie”, “gnocchi”, “lasagne”, as well as “added value” in the minestrone soup. We cannot forget that the wood is the background to the land of Liguria and in particular that the chestnut tree is its symbol: the chestnut wood is reconsidered, by all

Corniglia – Grapes harvest on the terraces of the Cinque Terre

Grapevines that dive into the sea: this is the introduction to talk about grapevine and wine in the Liguria Region. Ligurian wine growing has a modest weight within the Italian context, from a quantity point of view; however, it represents a significant reality in terms of quality: it boasts eight C.D.O.s (Ormeasco, Cinque Terre, Colli di Luni, Colline di Levanto, Golfo del Tigullio, Val Polcevera , Riviera Ligure di Ponente, Rossese Dolceacqua) and four T.G.I.s (Golfo dei Poeti La Spezia, Colline del Genovesato, Colline Savonesi, Terrazze dell’Imperiese). The Ligurian winegrowing industry is constantly increasing, also thanks to the food and wine tourism, which offers white wines such as the Pigato and the Vermentino, red wines such as the Rossese, the Ormeasco and the Ciliegiolo and straw wines like the renowned Sciacchetrà; this wine, sweet but not too sweet, also called “reinforced”, is obtained by leaving the grapes to dry up until late November. The process has

remained unchanged over time: as a matter of fact, the painter Telemaco Signorini in the mid 17th century wrote in his memoires “Riomaggiore”: “... in settembre, dopo la vendemmia, si stendono le migliori uve al sole per ottenere il rinforzato o lo sciaccatras” (“...in September, after the harvest, the best grapes are laid in the sun in order to obtain “the reinforced” or the sciaccatras.”). It complements perfectly typical local sweets such as the “spongata”, “buccellato” and “pandolce”.

Genoese Pesto sauce

Fruit and vegetable growing steers toward traditional and quality crops: the cuore di bue tomato, spiky artichoke, purple asparagus from Albenga, cabbages, broad beans, courgettes, aubergines, beans, fruit trees (citrus fruit, peaches, apricots) and in the inland areas potato growing is remarkable. In Liguria quality is pursued and niche products are looked after, adapting them to the growing request from a demanding public. Vegetable

It includes a large consumption of bread, fruit, vegetables, aromatic herbs, cereals, olive oil, fish and wine (the latter in moderation). The great amount of olive oil used in the Mediterranean cuisine, and in the Ligurian one in particular, partly counterbalances the animal fats: olive oil apparently lowers cholesterol levels in the blood.

The cured anchovies of the Ligurian Sea

means, a land crop (and not a forest one), because of its noticeable importance; its fruits are the basis of many dishes with an ancient tradition, such as the “castagnaccio” and the “Pan Martin”; with chestnut flour you can also prepare the Ligurian fresh pastas. Mushrooms that grow wild in Liguria are of such an excellent quality, that even Casanova liked them and counted them among culinary delights. The Ligurian Sea is a sea that laps the coasts which are famous for their natural beauty, a sea up to ten thousand feet deep, which can reach a depth of three thousand metres to the North West of Corsica; it is a swirling sea, hit by winds; it has a high salinity, and offers excellent fish. In Liguria the quality of the catch is high and there are many valuable species (octopus, cephalopods, ink-fish, squids, squill-fish, lobsters, scampi fish, prawns, sea urchins, soles, giltheads, amberjacks, sword fish, tunas, mussels) and of course oily fish: sand eels, sardines, mackerels and anchovies.

Olive Oil and Ligurian olives

Products good enough to deserve the first fish Protected Geographical Status: cured anchovies of the Ligurian Sea, a just recognition of a preservation technique which dates back to medieval times, when they were a trading good with the nearby Piedmont. In a land known and appreciated mostly for its sea, the fish in the Ligurian cuisine is present but not overwhelming; it is used in soups and to cook the delicious “Cappon magro”, a traditional dish which encloses the whole Ligurian spirit: the perfect union between the land and the sea, which blends harmoniously fish and vegetables in a dish deliberately choreographic. Agricultural and food products which are the basis of the Ligurian cuisine are the same as the ones of the Mediterranean diet, which was proclaimed in 2010 Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

Fish-based dishes from the Ligurian Sea

P.D.O. products

Ligurian olive oil, which boasts the Protected designation of origin for both parts of the italian riviera, has a high content of oleic acid (greater than 70%), low linoleic acid content and consequently of trilinolein, and low acidity. it is found in three geographical locations: riviera dei fiori, the riviera to the west of savona and the eastern riviera; Ligurian olive oil boasts the first P.d.o. in italy, recognized with the territorial and regional extension, and the first P.d.o. in italy with adoption of a system of public check.

The P.D.O. trademark is assigned to agricultural and food products whose quality characteristics depend primarily or exclusively on the territory where they are produced. Production, processing and preparation stages must take place within a bounded geographical area, following production specific rules (Reg. EEC 2081/92).

The most popular varieties of olives in Liguria are the Taggiasca, Pinola, Lavagnina and razzola. however, many others have a local origin; they are found in various olive growing areas of the region. To the west, the olive tree is favoured by a drier and more temperate climate, and the result is a more delicate, fruitier olive oil. however, all the olive oil from Liguria, which also delicately accompanies the ingredients of the international cuisine, tying together different flavours; it has a yellow-green colour, and can be classified among the olive oils with a fruity, sweet taste with a smell of ripe fruit.

Protected Designation of Origin

There are two P.D.O. Ligurian products: the Extra Virgin Olive Oil “Riviera Ligure” and the Genoese Basil.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil Riviera Ligure RIVIERA DEI FIORI P.D.O. area of production: Province of Imperia

The Extra Virgin Olive Oil “Riviera Ligure” The olive tree has conquered the hills and the mountain that rise from the Ligurian sea, between the third and the fourth century ad by benedictine monks, who in the Middle ages settled in Portofino, on the island of the Tino in the La spezia area, on the gallinara island in the area of savona and in albenga. it was the monks who spread among the local populations the cultivation techniques, and taught them how to subtract the farmland to nature, thought the erection of dry stone walls. it is assumed that right in their monastic vegetable gardens, the type of olive “cultivar taggiasca” was selected; it takes its name from Taggia, a resort in the imperia area.

over the centuries, the Ligurian olive oil has always been a valuable bargaining chip with other populations, especially from the sides of the Po valley and france. olive cultivation occupies those lands which are less suitable for more productive crops such as fruit and vegetables. now the olivegroves are spread out all along the coast; they characterize the landscape by their diffusion and homogeneity in many locations throughout the italian riviera. in many resorts of the italian riviera it is possible to purchase the olive oil from the local producers. in medieval times the production of olive oil in Liguria was quite modest and limited; the proper olive oil industry as such only started as from the end of the 16th century, and it reached its maximum expansion between the 18th and the 19th century, when the olive tree cultivation became almost the exclusive and prevailing one around the resorts in the area of imperia, while in the eastern italian riviera, there was a mixed cultivation, in vegetable gardens and vineyards. for decades imperia was the major centre for mediation and trade of olive oils from the Mediterranean, and today it still homes renowned companies on the market.

Olivegroves by the sea

peculiarities: The varieties of olive trees that characterize the landscape of the Riviera dei Fiori and their olive oils are the following ones: Taggiasca 99%, Pignola Colombaia and Merlina 1%. characteristics: This olive oil comes from varieties of local olive trees, and it is characterized by a high content of oleic acid (greater than 70%), low linoleic acid content (and consequently of trilinolein) and low acidity. The P.D.O. “Riviera Ligure”, accompanied by the geographical mention “Riviera dei Fiori”, is reserved for those extra virgin olive oils produced exclusively from olives of the following varieties: Taggiasca for at least 90%, others up to 10%.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil “Riviera Ligure” RIVIERA DEL PONENTE SAVONESE P.D.O. area of production: Province of Savona peculiarities: The varieties of olive trees which characterize the landscape of the western Riviera of the area around Savona and their respective olive oils are the following ones: Taggiasca 25%, Pignola 25%, Colombaia 15%, Nostrale 8%, Merlina 5%, Finalina and others 2%. characteristics: This olive oil comes from varieties of local olive trees, and it is characterized by a high content of oleic acid (greater than 70%), low linoleic acid content (and consequently of trilinolein) and low acidity. The denomination is reserved to the extra virgin olive oil obtained from the “Taggiasca” olive tree variety, which is found in the olivegroves for at least 60%. Other varieties found in the olivegroves can also be present, however not in such a great percentage, never exceeding the 40% mark.

basil is the aromatic herb chosen as the gastronomic symbol of the region, the special and unique ingredient of local cuisine; in Liguria it takes an unmistakably intense and full aroma. grown on terraces overlooking the sea, it is a product that should be appreciated, preferably “in situ”.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil “Riviera Ligure” RIVIERA DEL LEVANTE P.D.O. area of production: Province of Genoa and province of La Spezia peculiarities: The varieties of olive trees which characterize the landscape of the eastern Riviera and their respective olive oils are the following ones: for the province of Genoa Lavagnina 60%, Pignola 30%, Rossese 8%, Mortina and others 1%. For the province of La Spezia Razzola 80%, Premice, Pignola, Lantesco, Fiandola, Cozzanina, Cozzanone, Toso, Olivella, Moretellina, Lizzone and others 20%. characteristics: This olive oil comes from varieties of local olive trees, and it is characterized by} a high content of oleic acid (greater than 70%), low linoleic acid content (and consequently of trilinolein) and low acidity. The denomination is reserved to the extra virgin olive oil obtained from the following varieties of olive trees, which are found either on their own or jointly in the olivegroves: Lavagnina, Razzola, Pignola for at least 65%. Other varieties found in the olivegroves can also be present, however in a percentage non greater than 35%. .

The regional production is grown in the greenhouse during the winter and in the open field during spring and summer time, but the taste does not change. its special qualities are determined by the brightness of the coast, the characteristics of the soil and salty air. The most important production areas are Prà, voltri and coronata for the genoese area, diano Marina, andora and albenga to the west and the Magra valley to the east.

Pesto sauce The typical and most famous regional cold sauce is pesto, whose main ingredient is basil. The name “pesto” sums up the processing technique, ie. the pounding in a marble mortar, which is necessary for enhancing all ﬂavours. There are two secrets: use young leaves of plants that are no more than two months old and crush the leaves and garlic by pounding them in a mortar, instead of using a food blender. The difference is noticeable on the palate. You then just add to the basil and garlic, the extra virgin olive oil “Riviera Ligure” , pine nuts, salt and cheese (preferably Parmesan or pecorino cheese).

Stages of the Genoese Pesto sauce preparation

The Taggiasche Olives The olives in brine obtained from curing the Taggiasca olives are rich of local ﬂavours; they are unique and tasty. This variety, definitely belonging to the family of the Frantoio olive tree, is located in the provinces of Imperia and Savona. It is a small fruit with little pulp, but skilfully treated with manufacturing systems which are handed down from old times, and which give this fruit unsuspected capabilities. From curing and stoning you also get a mouthwatering sauce: the olive paste.

Put the garlic in the mortar

The Genoese Basil

Add the pine nuts

Add P.D.O. Genoese basil, a pinch of salt and grind in the mortar

Add the grated cheese

basil is a plant native to asia Minor, which was imported to europe in long gone centuries; it chose Liguria and Provence as the favourite cultivating lands. The basil found the ideal environmental conditions only on the Ligurian hills, in order to grow with unique organoleptic characteristics. its leaves hold the unmistakable scent of sea and salt and the essential oils which give it its special taste.

Add the extra virgin Olive oil “Riviera Ligure” P.D.O. The Genoese Basil

The sauce is ready Mix the ingredients and grind

The “trofiette” with the pesto sauce are enriched with boiled potatoes and green beans in the pasta cooking water

P.G.I. products

Anchovies processing

Protected Geographical Indication

After manually removing the head and viscera, the anchovies are left to dry for a few hours. The clean anchovies are then placed radially in barrels, stacked in layers. The maturing can take place in chestnut wood barrels or clay pots. Each layer of anchovies must be covered with common sea salt, and on the last layer a special hardwood disc must be placed and on top of it goes a weight of about 40 to 50 kg. The maturing process lasts an average of 40 to 50 days. The ideal salting is done when the meat is firm, consistent and reaches a colour which goes from deep pink to brown. After the maturation, the anchovies are transferred into cylindrical glass containers called “arbanelle”.

The P.G.I. mark is awarded to those agricultural and food products for which a certain quality, reputation or another characteristic depends on their geographical origin, and at least one stage of the production process (production, transformation, processing) takes place in that particular area. However, all steps must follow the rules of the production regulation (Regulation EEC 2081/92).

The Ligurian P.G.I. products are the Cured Anchovies of the Ligurian Sea; the Cheese Focaccia from Recco is going through the awarding stages.

The cured anchovies of the Ligurian Sea The production area includes the whole coast of Liguria. The anchovies of the Ligurian sea are preserved by salting, which gives the meat a compact appearance and a colour ranging from deep pink to brown.

The cheese focaccia from Recco (next P.G.I.) The production area of the cheese focaccia from Recco is represented by the entire territory of the municipality of recco and the neighbouring municipalities of avegno, sori and camogli. according to food historians, the origins of the “focaccia” date back to the time of the saracen invasions, when the genoese population, in order to escape from the invader, took refuge in the mountains: cheese, flour and a little oil were the ingredients available in greater quantities and on which the preparation of the foods which were part of the daily diet was based upon.

known as “pan do mâ” (bread of the sea), the anchovies are one of the most fished products of the sea and, consequently, one of the most consumed and exported. Thanks to the level of salinity of the waters along the Ligurian coast, the anchovies have a taste ranging between savouriness and delicacy, which makes them appreciable not only by the locals from Liguria, who savour them both fresh and cured, but also beyond regional boundaries.

until the end of the 19th century the “focaccia” was only eaten during the period between the end of october and early november, especially on all saints’ day (1st nov). at that time the cattle were fed partly with fresh forage and partly with dried forage from the valley, and this combination gave a slightly sour taste to the milk and cheese products, making them especially suitable as filling for the “focaccias”.

in the Middle ages they already were a bargaining chip with Piedmont. from the twelfth century the preservation technique by curing, salting, and place in olive oil was perfected. in Liguria, salting is an old technique. The particular morphology and regional location (yearly average temperature, air humidity and salinity of the sea) allow obtaining an ideal and characteristic level.

although the cheese focaccia from recco preserves old origins, surely dating back before the twelfth century, its success as a typical product is relatively new and can be traced back to the early 19th century, when the recipe was rediscovered and promoted by a small group of local restaurateurs.

Cheese focaccia from Recco

The cheese focaccia from recco is a baked product obtained from processing a dough made from soft wheat flour, extra virgin olive oil “riviera Ligure”, water and salt, stuffed with fresh cheese. “l.l.t.” (acronym for “latte ligure tracciato”, i.e. specific for the cheese focaccia) and then cooked in the oven. The focaccia is then sprinkled with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil “riviera Ligure”, and perhaps some salt. cooking must take place in ovens with a temperature between 270 and 320 ° c for 4 to 8 minutes, until the surface of the product takes on a golden colour, with bubbles or brown streaks. it has a circular, square or rectangular shape, with a height of less than 1 cm. it is crumbly on top and soft inside. a real treat for the palate.

Cured anchovies of the Ligurian Sea

The wines A place of honour among the Ligurian regional products has to be reserved to wine. The Ligurian wine is not quantitatively significant, but it is part of the quality labels. The policy of the DOPs and TGIs aimed in fact at the enhancement, rewarding the agricultural economy of entire areas of the hinterland. Each valley in Liguria has its own different wines production and the types range from full-bodied reds for ageing, to the delicate white ones to match with fish dishes.

T.G.I. Products (next P.G.I.s) Typical Geographical Indication

Recognition of quality awarded to table wines, characterized by generally wide production areas and with production regulations generally not very restrictive. The indication may be accompanied by other terms, such as the species of grape (Law 164/92). There are four T.G.I. Ligurian wines, one for each Ligurian province. In a hypothetical journey to the discovery of the Ligurian T.G.I. wines, starting from the West, the first Ligurian T.G.I. wine is the “Terrazze dell’Imperiese”: the production area of the grapes destined to the production of the Typical Geographical Indication “Terrazze” wines of the Imperia area is the whole province of Imperia. The Typical Geographical Indication “Colline Savonesi” is reserved for the white wines, including the sparkling and straw wine varieties, to the red wines, including the novello type and the rosé ones. Carrying on from the West towards the regional capital of Liguria, the T.G.I. has been granted to the “Colline Savonesi”: the grape production area includes the hilly area of the administrative territory of the province of Savona. The Typical Geographical Indication “Colline Savonesi” is reserved for the white wines, including the sparkling and straw wine varieties, to the red wines, including the novello type and the rosé ones. Vineyards of Finale

In the regional capital and its province, the T.G.I. has been assigned to the “Colline del Genovesato”: the production area of the grapes for the musts and grapes suitable for the Typical Geographical Indication “Colline del Genovesato” comprises the administrative territory of the province of Genoa, included within the Controlled Designation of Origin: “Riviera di Ponente” (Municipalities of Arenzano and Cogoleto), “Golfo del Tigullio” and “Val Polcevera”. The Typical Geographical Indication “Colline del Genovesato” is reserved for the white wines, including the sparkling varieties; the rosé ones, including the sparkling ones; the red wines, including the sparkling one, the novello type and the straw wine. Finally, to the East, the T.G.I. has been recognized to the “Golfo dei Poeti La Spezia”: the production area of grapes destined to wines with a Typical Geographical Indication “Golfo dei Poeti” or “Liguria di Levante”, located in the province of La Spezia. The Typical Geographical Indication “Golfo dei Poeti or “Liguria di Levante” is reserved to the white wines, including the sparkling and “spumante” sparkling wine varieties; red, also in the sparkling and novello varieties; rosé, straw wine.

The C.D.O. products (next P.D.O.s) Controlled Designation of Origin

The C.D.O. label is attributed to wines produced in demarcated areas, usually small to medium size, with an indication of their geographical name. Usually the name of the species of vine follows the one of the C.D.O. and the production discipline is rather strict (Law 164/92). There are eight Ligurian C.D.O. wines. Starting from the far Western part of Liguria, in the province of Imperia, we have the “Rossese of Dolceacqua”, which owes its name to a quaint, nestled village, which has an old origin; it is produced in the valleys at the back of Ventimiglia; this is a wine with a ruby red colour which tends toward garnet red with ageing and complements meat and game dishes. Still in the Imperia area, in the “High Arroscia Valley”, on the border with the town of Cuneo area, we find the “Ormeasco” wine, another red wine which suits meat dishes; it is produced in the district of the municipality of Pornassio. Coming down towards the coastline of Imperia, there are many manufacturers of a very fragrant “Vermentino”, a fresh wine to accompany fish and seafood appetizers. The main production areas are Pontedassio, San Lorenzo and Diano Castello, where every year there is a festival dedicated to it. Another C.D.O. has been awarded to the “Riviera Ligure di Ponente” in the three varieties of “Pigato”, “Vermentino” and “Rossese”; in the area of Savona, the Albenga Valley is known for the production of the “Pigato”, a fresh wine that goes well with seafood dishes. The most valuable bottles are produced in Salea, Ortovero and Ranzo, small wine-growing villages famous for their cosy wine cellars. In the Finale area there are also other interesting producers of “Vermentino” and a particular, fresh and slightly acid white wine: the “Lumassina”, also called “Buzzetto”, which in the Ligurian dialect means “still unripe”; it owes its name to the fact it is made with grapes that ripe late. In the “Genovesato” we find the “Val Polcevera”, a white wine, of which a “spumante” version is also available, sparkling and straw wine; red wine, also including the types novello and sparkling; rosé, also in the sparkling variety. The production area falls within the province of Genoa, in the basin of the Polcevera stream and its tributaries. Another C.D.O. in the province of Genoa is the “Golfo del Tigullio” (shortly “Portofino Golfo del Tigullio”), with types of white, red, rosé, straw, sparkling, “spumante” sparkling wines; in the area of Chiavari is also worth remembering the “Ciliegiolo”, a good red wine suitable for all lean dishes of the Ligurian cuisine, and also the “Vermentino”. In the East, in the province of La Spezia, we find the “Colline di Levanto”, in the white and red varieties. The production area includes part of the territories of the municipalities of Levanto, Bonassola, Framura and Deiva Marina. Another Ligurian C.D.O. is the “Cinque Terre”, produced in the vineyards on a sheer drop to the sea, in rows of dry stone walls. One of the greatest expressions of this wine is the “Sciacchetrà”, made from grapes naturally dried on mats. At the border with Tuscany we finally find a variety of red and white wines, “Vermentini dei Colli di Luni”, which in recent years saw an ever increasing demand. The writers of ancient Rome already spoke of these wines.

Fruit and vegetable products

Beans from Pigna

in the imperia district, the beans from Conio, Badalucco and Pigna, known locally as “rundìn dell’angelo”, are of uncertain origin. They are characterized by a very delicate flavour and very thin skin which, especially in soups and after a long cooking, tends to peel off and disappear. There are cultivars with a white and small seed; some varieties have light, hazel coloured maculations. This is a creeping plant.

another fruit and vegetable product of the imperia area is the garlic of Vessalico, in the upper arroscia valley; it belongs to the white type, the bulb (head) has an average to large size; it has a regular and compact shape, with about 6 to 8 small bulbs (cloves). This is mountain garlic, grown at 400 meters above sea level; it is rich of intense flavours and particular nuances. The garlic of vessalico has a late cycle. The planting traditionally takes place in the autumn or winter. as it has high characteristics of rusticity, it has an excellent adaptability to the traditional cultivation environment. it multiplies by vegetative manner and bulbils are passed down at family level. it is sold fresh and packed in strings of no more than 20 to 25 heads, keeping the leaves of the plant, which are braided in a very unusual way. it has good preservation characteristics.

Pigna, which is worth a cultural visit, can be reached from ventimiglia; conio is a village hanging to the hills of the oneglia valley and badalucco is located in the argentina valley. Garlic from Vessalico

The “Agliata” Ingredients: garlic (preferably from Vessalico), vinegar, bread crumbs, dry white wine, salt. Put the garlic and the bread crumbs in a mortar and grind them. Add salt to taste and dilute with vinegar and wine. The mixture is boiled for a very few minutes, before seasoning. In the valleys of the Western Italian Riviera, home to the “Vessalico” garlic, the “agliata” feels the gastronomic inﬂuence of France, and therefore combines the usual ingredients with the yolks of hard boiled eggs, creating a local “rouille”, which is spread on toasted, warm, homemade bread.

albenga is in the district of savona, on the western italian riviera; it is a very old town, renowned for its numerous towers and the many roman remains; at the back of the town, there is the Plain of albenga, which is considered the vegetable garden of the Liguria region.

tolerates drought and does not need of chemical treatments, almost like a wild vegetable. it is harvested from May to june. it is eaten raw in salads, or cooked as an accompaniment to meat or game. “Cuore di bue” tomatoes are another typical product of the albenga plain, and in general of all the coastal territory of western Liguria, situated on the marine side of the alpine apennine ridge; they owe their special qualities to the combination of traditional agronomic practices, the use of local varietal selections and specific local environmental factors, such as weather conditions typical of coastal and hilly areas of western Liguria, with particularly mild winter temperatures, and a well distributed rainfall and an elevated insolation.

Purple asparagus of Albenga

among the most characteristic productions there are the purple asparagus of Albenga, unmistakable because of the purple colour and the delicate, slightly sweet taste; their softness makes them unique. They have a medium to large size, and are distinguished by the vigour of the plant. Their delicacy makes them suitable to accompany main dishes of white meat and fish. The purple artichoke of Albenga, as well as for the colour, is characteristic for the texture of the inner leaves, which are exceptionally tender, crisp and sweet, suitable to be enjoyed raw, dipped in extra virgin olive oil from Liguria. The characteristic of this product is that, unlike other local productions, it is sold with its long stem and at least two full leaves. The Perinaldo artichoke is another artichoke variety which is found in Liguria; Perinaldo is a small hamlet that closes the crosia valley, which is full of olivegroves at the western end of Liguria. it is a variety imported from the neighbouring Provence and acclimatized very well in this area: it is said that the french “violet” was introduced in this area by napoleon bonaparte; it is only grown here and in Provence, between 400 and 600 meters above sea level; it is boneless, tender and has no “beards” on the inside. it is resistant to cold temperatures,

also the trumpet courgette is a variety of vegetable whose production is limited to the coastal area of savona, in particular the albenga valley; it is among the varieties with lesser temperature requirements. it is among the long life pumpkins typical of both rivieras, so much as to be renowned as the trumpet of the Italian Riviera. it takes its name from its peculiar shape. it is interesting to note that it is practically absent in the hinterland. cultivars with elongated fruits, with a light green colour, a predominant yellow colour. its characteristic shape reminds, as the name suggests, of a trumpet. on the whole territory of the genoese hinterland, up to the bordering appennine of savona and La spezia, the “Quarantina” potato is considered the tastier and oldest among the local varieties; as a matter of fact, it was already known at the end of the 18th century. among the features of this potato there is the taste, which is delicate and not floury. it is traditionally used in dishes such as potato pies in general, “gnocchi” and to soften the dough of the focaccia. in the sturla valley and in the graveglia valley (in the hinterland to the east of genoa) the “baciocca” is made, a tasty pie with sliced “quarantine” potatoes, cooked in a baking tray on a layer of chestnut leaves; it is a dish consisting of a few elements, simple and hearty but tasty.

Livestock and dairy products in the arroscia and argentina valleys of imperia, in some coastal towns in the province of imperia and in the municipality of albenga in the province of savona, the brigasca sheep is bread. The name comes from Mount briga on the Maritime alps, on the border with france. breeding involves a period of seven or eight months on the mountain pasture and about four months on the coastal area where the mild climate allows outdoor grazing also in the winter months. with the milk of the brigasca sheep, three cheeses are produced: sora, toma and brusso, using techniques and tools which are still tied to the old tradition of transhumance. sora is produced exclusively from ovine milk; the toma’s production technique differs from the sora’s just for the possible addition of goat’s milk, the use of cheese molds to shape and curing the shortest in order to get the quickest result. brusso is a dressing with a strong smell and flavour; it is a fermented goat cheese ricotta, mixed with extra virgin olive oil “riviera Ligure”, salt and pepper; brusso is used to season pasta and boiled potatoes, or to prepare the dough for the “barbagiuai”, i.e. large ravioli typical of the hinterland of imperia. Typical fresh and ripe cheeses

Curd cheese is a fresh cheese made of cooked dough, produced exclusively with ovine milk throughout the province of savona and with occasional productions in the other Ligurian provinces; the taste reminds of fresh milk, sweet, not salty, not sour or just acid. curd cheese was traditionally placed on a mat of rushes (giunchi in italian, hence the name curd cheese, which is giuncata in italian), where the product dripping would took place. once completely cooled, the cheese is ready for consumption.

Genoese Salami

The sweet and delicate taste of the curd can be associated with hot sauces of wild berries (raspberries, blueberries or woodland strawberries) to make a delicious dessert. The T.g.i. sparkling wine Mataossu colline savonesi can accompany all of it. at the back of genoa, on the border between the Polcevera valley and the scrivia valley, the genoese salami is produced, with its unmistakable smoked scent. The salami from Sant’Olcese and Orero is a sausage of pork and raw beef (formerly it also included mule meat), with a cylindrical or flat shape, a medium grain mixture with rather large round spots of fat; it has a special and distinctive aroma. Pork meats both fat (30%) and lean (20%) are mixed with equal amounts of lean beef, cured and made into sausages using the natural casings, adding garlic, vinegar, and seasonings. at this point the salami undergoes a smoking process: the sausages are exposed to strong wood smoke (durmast or chestnut) for a few days before moving to the ripening rooms.

The “mostardella genovese” is made throughout the genoese hinterland; it is a sausage made of raw pork and beef, generally in equal parts, to which is added about 30% of pork fat that is part of local tradition; it is seasoned with salt, pepper and herbs. it is then stuffed into natural casings. it is made to use all the scraps of pork and beef discarded during the processing of cured meats. it is eaten fresh, cut into slices, spread on bread or seared in a pan. The mixture to create this sausage is bound with wine. it looks like a fresh “cacciatorino” cheese with a deep red colour. The working farms of the genoese hinterland formed a consortium in order to commercialize the milk from the Genoese Apennine. it is a rich and nutritious milk, with a particularly mouth-watering taste, as it is obtained from animals kept at pasture for at least 8 to 10 months a year, traditionally bread in small, family run farms. The production of cow’s milk is the traditional livestock activity of the hinterland of the province of genoa. Cows grazing on the Genoese mountains

another typical dairy product is the Ligurian “quagliata” cheese, called prescinseua in dialect; the word derives from the genoese “presû”, which means rennet. it is a fresh curd of cow’s milk produced on the pastures of the genoese apennines; its consistency varies from semi liquid to semi solid; it has a sour taste. The “prescinseua” is used in the filling of most regional savoury pies. in the area of the high aveto valley (rezzoaglio and santo stefano d’aveto) the “San Sté” cheese is made, which has a semi-cooked dough, made with cow’s whole milk, generally from brown breed cows, “cabannina” and “Meticcia”; the maturing process takes at least two months. it is certainly the best known cheese of the Liguria region and it is originally from the aveto valley upper hinterland of chiavari, on the border with the province of Piacenza. it is kept in great rounds weighing between 8 to 12 kg; the rich yellow colour and light sponginess make it the leading exponent of the dairy scene of the apennines. for its production only fresh cow’s milk is used. it has a flavour with the taste of milk to a minimum seasoning, fragrant and intense, with a slightly bitter tendency when ripe. The wine matching can be done with a rosé wine, ciliegiolo, or a c.d.o. red wine “golfo del Tigullio,” which blends in well with the spicy tip and the fairly bitter aftertaste of the cheese.

The Organic Meat and Cheese of the High Vara Valley The Vara Valley is located in the hinterland of La Spezia, also known as Organic Valley because farmers in the district have banned the use of any chemical in field cultivation and animal care. The agricultural and livestock activities represent a key resource for the valley: currently more than 600 companies operate here, in the fields of agriculture and animal husbandry. Currently 70% of the valley farms dealing with animal husbandry have obtained the organic certification. In addition to animal husbandry farms, there are also working farms specialized in the production of berries, honey, vegetables, corn ﬂour and chestnuts, wine, oil.

To the east, castelnuovo Magra is a hilly town, which homes the Public Wine Cellar of Liguria and of the Lunigiana. here the “prosciutta Castelnovese” is produced, which blends the Ligurian tradition with the one from Tuscany, creating an unmistakable salami, with its delicate fragrance and delicious flavour, enhanced by homemade bread and red wine. The right temperature, the skilful use of aromas and flavours as well as the low exposure to light, contribute to the quality of the product. after at least seven months, the finished product is ready to be enjoyed.

Other products of the hinterland and the woodland

The menus of restaurants and agritourisms throughout the hinterland territory of Liguria offer local dishes made with chestnut flour, which has a creamy-beige colour and gives off an unmistakable aroma. In the hinterland of La Spezia and Genoa and particularly in the Vara Valley, Graveglia Valley and Sturla Valley, chestnuts were so fundamental for feeding and, often, for the survival of the populations of the hinterland, that they were considered the bread of the poor. A small amount of chestnut flour was always combined with the more precious and rare one made with wheat to make bread. Such variation enriched the baked good with sugar and made it more nourishing and nutritious. This kind of dark bread, with a home tradition, took the name of “Pan Martín” probably from the day of San Martino, 11th November, when the chestnut flour was ready. “Pan martìn” is excellent eaten warm with milk, cheese and charcuterie from the hinterland.

Chestnuts

The “panella” is another speciality made with chestnut flour, typical of the Eastern part of Liguria, and it is also known as “pattona”; it is the poor relative of the “castagnaccio”. Once upon a time, chestnut flour was used to prepare the “castagnaccio” on feast days; this is a typical and well known cake with the unmistakable aroma which used to cheer up the month of November and beyond. Mushrooms and woodland products

On the Western coast of Liguria, in Taggia, the “corzetti avvantaggiati” are worth a mention, which are born from the union of the precious white flour and the cheaper wholemeal one. The advantage and the name apparently derived from the lower cost of raw materials. The same fruitful combination is also found in other types of pasta; the most famous ones are the “trenette”, also called “avvantaggiate”.

The hazel tree is present throughout the Ligurian territory both as a wild or cultivated plant. However, it has growing area concentrated in the Sturla, Fontanabuona and Graveglia Valleys in the province of Genoa. The varieties (cultivars) used in the implantations are the representative ones for the two areas with the greatest vocation and therefore which characterize the territory. In the Fontanabuona Valley in particular, there are cultivars such as “del rosso” and “dall’orto” (more sensitive to drought and thus more delicate) while in the Sturla Valley the most frequent cultivar is the “tapparona”. The different varieties are distinguished mainly for the shape of the fruit: while the “del rosso” and the “dall’orto” have a rounded shape and, furthermore, the latter has a thin shell, the “tapparona” is more elongated and flatter.

White Truffle

The truffle of the Bormida Valley is an underground mushroom, which grows under the roots of oaks, poplars, lime trees and willows. There are both white and black truffles. The white truffle is eaten over rice or eggs. The black truffle, the most common and therefore less expensive than the white one, grows at the foot of oaks, poplars, hazels. Less fragrant, it stays fresh for longer. Its flavour can only be appreciated if cooked. As a matter of fact, it should always be cooked in butter before being sliced and placed on eggs, “fettuccine”, patè, ravioli.

Castagnaccio

A simple but hearty dish which was prepared in the winter were dried chestnuts cooked in milk.

Dried Chestnuts

Sea products In the Ligurian cuisine, anchovies are among the most popular fish in the recipe book: cured, “al verde”, stuffed, marinated or simply fried. They belong to the family of oily fish, once known as “pan do mâ” (bread of the sea); they go very well with a nice C.D.O. white wine Cinque Terre. Another species which is part of the culinary tradition of fish are whitebait, in dialect “gianchetti”, sardine fry; currently the catch, strictly regulated until 2010, has been banned by the European Commission; the Regional Authority, to waive the ban, has prepared a Management plan which is now being examined by the European Union. The whitebaits were served boiled in salad with oil and lemon juice, or inserted in the mixture of omelettes and “frisceu” (savoury pancakes). It is in the sea of La Spezia, the extreme offshoot of Eastern Liguria, that the mussels find their ideal location, thanks to the richness of plankton, the tranquility of the waters and for the non abundance of salt. The Romans were the first to practice shellfish cultivation; the medieval monks carried on such practices and the fishermen of La Spezia quickly learned this technique, but it was only at the end of the 19th century that mussel farming was pursued on a scientific level. Mussels, calles “muscles” in the area of La Spezia, are eaten in various ways, including raw. They are great fried, stuffed, in a sauce and in a soup. Stuffed muscles Ligurian style

The symbol of the Festival is the pan in which the fish to be distributed is fried in, which has a diameter of 3.85 meters. The event is linked to the century-old festival of San Fortunato, the patron saint of fishermen.

Fresh fish from Camogli

The peculiarity of the red shrimps of the Ligurian Sea is that they have a particularly tasty flavour; they are caught in the Gulfs of Santa Margherita Ligure and San Remo. The term “red shrimps” usually refers to a set of two species that are caught by trawling on the bathyal seabeds; the two species differ mainly in colour: the first species has a velvety dark red shade, whereas the second species adds pink, purple and light blue to red, varying among the individuals. The shrimps from the Ligurian Sea can also be savoured simply boiled and dressed with extra virgin olive oil “Riviera Ligure” , just a bit of lemon juice in order not to cover the taste, salt, pepper and some leaves of parsley. Fishing in the Golfo Paradiso is definitely the oldest activity practiced by the inhabitants of Camogli, one of the most beautiful and characteristic fishing villages of the region, with its small port and its tall and colourful houses, all close to each other. The “tonnarella” of Camogli was first mentioned in 1603; it does not only catch tuna fish, which today have become very rare since they have changed their migration routes, but all species of fish which stumble into the net. Every year in Camogli, on the second Sunday of May, the Fish Festival takes place; it is one of the most renowned ones on a national level; it was born in 1952 to give residents and visitors mixed fried fish.

The small bay of Noli in the province in Savona opens out over a generous sea. Noli is a beautiful maritime hamlet of Byzantine origin, located in the district of Savona, which used to be a Maritime Republic. The fishermen from Noli represent a very old community, and their presence was fundamental in medieval times, when the fish resource was the main source of livelihood of the village. In particular, the fishermen were dedicated to the catch of the sand eel (G. cicerelus), as it is proven by the numerous historical documents. This type of fishing has always represented a food resource for the Ligurian coastal populations. Recent EU regulations no longer allow the use of the trawling net to catch the sand eel, as it is considered as a haulage tool and therefore regulated in a rather restrictive manner.

Cicerelli of Noli

However, in order to deviate from such ban, Member States may predispose special “Management Plans” able to prove the sustainability of this particular type of fishing. The Regional Authorities have therefore drawn up a proposal for a Management Plan, which has already been forwarded to the Ministry; this plan wishes to offer a suitable tool for a sustainable management, aimed at preserving and safeguarding this species through time and at the same time maintaining an old fishing technique which is done by using a tool part of the local history and of the culture of the local community

Ligurian anchovies

of the fishermen of Noli. The “cicerello” is a species of oily fish, which in the local cuisine is used as part of dishes of mixed fried fish, consumption without any waste. The tradition wants that they are stored “allo scabècciu” (soused): after undergoing a slight dessication, they are fried and placed in glass jars with vinegar and salt. Another variety which is caught mainly in Noli are the spicara maris, locally called “zerli”, small fish which are part of the traditional Ligurian catch. The “zerli” are also preserved “allo scabècciu”: after undergoing a slight dessication, losing 15% of humidity, they are fried and then placed in glass jars with herbs (bay leaf). The “zerli”, like the “lussotti” (small silvery fish), are savoured marinated as appetizers. The “musciàmme” is the most traditional and extraordinary preserved food product in Liguria, to be served cut into thin slices like truffle; once upon a time it used to be the fillet of dessicated dolphin. Today it is on the market in the version of “musciàmme” made with tuna or other fish. The colour is darker and the taste is definitely more defined. It is a food with an old world flavour. It was already in use as early as the twelfth century on board the galleys, where it was eaten with “gallette” (hard bread) dipped in water and vinegar, and with vegetables. The trade of the “musciàmme”, along with botargo, tuna and caviar, used to be an important international trafficproduct for the local noble families. “Musciàmme” keeps well when vacuum packed and it is eaten cut into very thin slices after it has been softened in a marinade with extra virgin olive oil “Riviera ligure”; however, it already represents a special gastronomic experience in itself. It is also a basic element of the “capponada” and complements the “cappon magro”.

The Ligurian cooking tradition In the hinterland of Imperia, in Triora, a typical bread is made, which has old origins. Triora is an old hamlet in the Argentina Valley and it is famous for some historical episodes related to the witchcraft trials. The bread of Triora is a mountain, homemade wholemeal bread, high in fibre and protein; it has a round and large shape, recognizable by the bran on the bottom. Once upon a time it used to be baked in communal ovens, laid on chestnuts leaves, which had the purpose of not let it stick to the surface of the oven. It has an exceptional preservability of a week at least; it is excellent when cut in slices, spread with “brusso” cheese. Another traditional bread of the hinterland of Imperia is the “carpasina”, prepared in Carpasio, in the Argentina Valley; it is a barley toasted bread, with a hard consistency and a typical golden

The “farinata” is eaten warm, seasoned with ground black pepper. There are several variants, especially in Western Liguria, by adding to the basic mix: rosemary, borage, artichokes, mushrooms, gorgonzola cheese, onions and floured whitebait. These ingredients are added after mixing the olive oil, just before baking. The “panissa” is another dish which can be enjoyed in Liguria and again it is made with chickpea flour. Chickpea flour and water, cooked like “polenta”, cooled and cut into diamond shapes: here is what it is and what the “panissa” looks like; it is a filling, tasty and cheap dish.

Between the fresh pastas, the “trofiette” or “trofie” are a type of spiral-shaped pasta, with a length of 1,5 to 2 cm; the ends are thinner than the centre. Born in the Eastern Italian Riviera, they are one of the glories of the cuisine of Recco. They are seasoned with pesto or walnut sauce, a harmonious blend of flavours, obtained by grinding the walnuts in the mortar, with the addition of olive oil, salt and a little cream or “quagliata” cheese and pine nuts. It has a creamy consistency, an ivory white colour and a sweet taste where the flavour of walnut can be recognized.

Genoese Focaccia

colour, which is softened with water before being eaten, seasoned with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, anchovies and basil leaves. In the month of September, in Carpasio, you relive the period of sheep herding. The star of the celebration is the Carpasina, which, along with milk and cheese, represented the food of the shepherds when for a few months they went to live in the pastures. In addition to cheese focaccia from Recco, all the bakeries produce focaccia; hot, fragrant, and appetizing, it is a delicacy that can be enjoyed Farinata and other specialties

all day, from the early morning breakfast to late night snack. It is prepared with wheat flour, extra virgin olive oil, salt, yeast and water; it can be flavoured with sage, which is minced and added directly to the dough, with chopped olives also mixed directly into the flour, or enriched with sliced onions which are spread onto the ready to bake dough. It is one of the main elements of Ligurian cuisine, soft or crisp, smooth or flavoured, with onions, rosemary or olives, all Ligurian bakeries make it, and many other bakeries outside the region do too. Simple and few ingredients for a delicious farinata: chickpea flour, water and oil, but most importantly the use of a large copper pan in a wood burning oven, which makes the dough hot and crisp, especially around the edges. In the Savonese area, however, the farinata is not made with chickpea flour, but with wheat flour, a substantial difference even if the preparation is the same. One of the secrets is the high quality, Ligurian, extra virgin olive oil. It is certainly of Saracen origin, but something similar can be found in other parts of the Mediterranean and the Middle East.

Farinata, panissa, vegetable savoury cakes

Taverns, restaurants and fried food shops, offer it, according to the tradition, spiced with ample amounts of oil and seasoned with salt and pepper alongside frisceu (savoury dumplings), that can be simple, with whitebait or cod, cuculli (a mixture always based with fried cickpea, stuffed vegetables (usually courgettes, onions, eggplants) cooked in the oven, and vegetable savoury cakes (potatoes and beans).

In the entire region, however predominantly eastern Genoa, the preparation of vegetarian ravioli made with herbs: Swiss chard, nettles, borage, wild asparagus has begun to spread. The most characteristic are the Recco style pansoti (Genoa); the name pansoti is derived from

The Andrea pizza (pissalandrea) is a focaccia with salted fish dedicated to Admiral Andrea D’Oria. This pizza is widespread throughout the western Italian Riviera; it is also found in the south of old France, the last offshoot of the Republic of Genoa, however it is slightly flatter and crispier. The original recipe has been enriched with new ingredients over the centuries, initially tomatoes and olives. There is also the sardenaira, pizza with sardines, another version of the same plate, where the anchovies are replaced by sardines. Trofie and the ingredients for pesto

it is of old marine origin and is perfect with meat and fish. known as pestun de fave, for the agreeable light green colour traditional of the western riviera, the origins of this specialty are very old.

Pansotti in walnut sauce

Corzetti

“pansa” (belly) for their bulging shape. Pansoti also come topped with walnut sauce. another example of the use of wild herbs as a filling is gattafin, typical of Levanto, in the La spezia area. They are large, fried ravioli filled with wild herbs, chard, extra virgin oil made from Liguria olives, onions, ricotta, spices, eggs and cheese. in eastern Liguria, the word corzetto (or corsetto) refers a type of fresh pasta made with durum flour and formed into the shape of small disks with impressive decoration. They come from an old tradition: the name seems to be derived from “croxetta”, for the small crosses which are typically impressed onto the pasta. corzetto is also the stamp made of wood used to create the decorations that adorn and

characterize the pasta. corzetti come topped with a pine nut sauce which has a creamy consistency and is ivory in colour. it is prepared by pounding the pine nuts with a mortar and adding crumbs of bread soaked in milk. it is completed with quagliata cheese, salt and a spoon of extra virgin olive oil made with olives from the Ligurian riviera. it can be said that this sauce is a more refined alternative to that of the walnut for topping first courses.

other traditional types of pasta that are topped with pesto include trenette (similar to linguine), picagge (similar to fettuccine) and mandili di saea (handkerchiefs of silk), a fresh pasta similar to sheets of lasagna. still in the east, in the graveglia valley, vara valley, la spezia and the Lunigiana make testaroli, simply crushed to a thickness of about half a centimetre, with a base of flour, water and salt; they come cooked in iron or cast iron pans with a diameter of around thirty centimetres. once cooked, they are cooled, cut into diamonds then boiled; they are flavoured with oil and cheese, with pesto or with tomato sauce. Panigazzi are similar to testaroli, but they are thinner and smaller in diameter; they come in clay pans, stacked on top of each other to be flattened. Traditionally, they are eaten instead of bread with meats and cheeses, blanched in

Ravioli with borage

boiling water and topped with pesto, oil and cheese or with mushroom or meat sauce. The tradition of vegetable pie is very old in Liguria. The presence of the torta pasqualina (easter pie) on the tables of the genoese was documented at the start of the 16th century; traditionally prepared for easter lunch, the sheets of pie are overlapped 33 times, in homage to age of christ.

Torta pasqualina

another traditional Ligurian cold sauce is marò, another type of bean pesto withmint leaves, garlic, extra virgin olive oil from the italian riviera, cooking salt, pepper, and vinegar.

The Preboggiòn growing area: Inside Genovesato, specifically in the eastern part. peculiarities: Preboggiòn is a composed of a variety of wild herbs. This mix of herbs simply boiled and dressed with oil and lemon and goes with focaccette made with corn; or it can be used to fill the famous pansòti. The most commonly gathered herbs are the following: French Scorzonera (Reichardia picroides), Sow Thistle (Sonchus oleraceus), Smooth Golden Fleece (Urospermum dalechampli), Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinalis), Borage (Borago offcinalis), Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica), Burnet (Sanguisorba minor), Wild Chicory (Hyoseris radiata), Red Poppy (Papaver roeas), Beets (bietole). The French Scorzonera is the most widely acknowledged: it is the most notable and delicious ﬂavour present in preboggiòn.

Of the regional vegetable pies, the pastry with spinach and a variety of herbs mixed with Parmesan and Prescinseua cheese between its puffy sheets is the oldest and most notable.

garlic, parsley, tomatoes, potatoes, pine nuts and Taggiasche olives. In the Imperia area, in the Argentina Valley, stockfish “alla Badalucchese” has this Nordic fish as its main ingredient. It comes cooked in a pine nut sauce, hazelnuts, dried mushrooms and garlic, cured anchovies, white wine, local extra virgin olive oil and meat stock.

The pie with rice is made in all the Ligurian territories; rice is mixed with eggs and Parmesan cheese, creating this simply yet hardy dish. Different versions exist in all of the region’s territories: salted rice pie, whose filling is sometimes covered with a sheet of dough and the sweet rice pie. Pumpkin pie is made throughout the region’s territory; pumpkin and a few other ingredients are mixed to make up the delicate stuffing of this historic, traditional pie. The latter can be found pretty much in the entire region, including its sweet version, in western Liguria too.

Vegetable pies

The Artichoke pie (torta de articiocche in local dialect) is made all over Liguria and it uses the same dough as the Pasqualina pie. The filling is made of purple artichokes from Albenga, Quagliata cheese, eggs, onions, parsley, oregano, grated cheese, olive oil, salt and pepper. Also delicious is the “de gee” pie (which is local dialect for chard). It is a savoury pie which encloses between two folds a mixture based on chard, curd or ricotta cheese, salt, eggs, grated cheese and olive oil.

Mesc-ciùa is the local dish of La Spezia and of the inland area. It is a soup that comes from a mixture of grains, pulses (barley, chick peas, Cannellini beans, buckwheat), flavoured with olive oil and ground pepper. Stewed rabbit is among the meat based main courses. It is the fruit of the union between the delicate meat of rabbit with the flavours of Taggiasche olives, the unmistakable wine of the local valleys, the inevitable pine nuts, onions, rosemary, and of theP.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) extra virgin olive made in Liguria.

Cima “alla genovese”

Another traditional flavouring is artichoke sauce, typical of the winter months; it uses artichokes from the planes of Albenga, cut into wedges and cooked with dried mushrooms, garlic, rosemary, onions, with the addition of flour, along with tomato sauce and white wine. Artichokes are also used for preparing lamb and artichokes “in fricassea”, made with eggs, lemon juice, garlic, parsley, white wine, P.D.O. extra virgin olive oil of Liguria, salt and pepper.

Another famous recipe which uses stockfish as its primary ingredient is the “Brandacujon”. It is also typical of the Imperia area, particularly in the districts of Sanremo and Isolabona. The dish has a strange name: in the Provençal dialect, “brandar” means to shake up, or stir. The rest needs no translation. Cappon magro

Among the fish specialties in Liguria a variety of recipes are based on stockfish. Although not an original local product, it is a part of Ligurian culinary tradition. It arrived aboard of the ships that docked in the Ligurian ports. Stoccafisso accomodato (stewed stockfish) allowed for another specialty that is prepared with onions,

Another meat based specialty is “cima”. Its preparation requires time and skill: with a cut of meat take from the stomach of veal a pocket Coniglio alla ligure is created and filled with offal, peas, eggs and cheese. It is served cut in slices. It originated as a dish “of recovery” , but with time and well- being it was transformed into a rich dish.

The recipe is based on stockfish and potatoes, flavored with a mixture of chopped garlic, parsley and pine nuts, lemon, eggs, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. The origin of the dish probably came from aboard fishing boats, as the rolling of the sea facilitated the mixing of the ingredients, obtained by the energetic movements of the cook.

Another regional meat specialty are the “tomaxelle”, rolls of veal made rich with a filling of eggs, oregano, cheese, pine nuts, parsley, garlic and mushrooms, then closed with fishing line and stewed in white wine, tomatoes, meat sauce and broth. Also part of the tradition is “tocco di carne”, a rich sauce of beef, carrots, celery, onions, parsley, dried mushrooms, white wine and tomatoes. Yet another is “tocco ai funghi”, another sauce which uses porcini mushrooms slowly cooked with onions, garlic, tomatoes, thyme and oregano.

The story goes that the inhabitants of Badalucco were able to resist a siege thanks to stores of stockfish. Every year this event is remembered during the “sagra dello stoccafisso”, or festival of the stockfish, which happens on the third Sunday of September.

Stockfish alla Badalucchese

The main dish of culinary tradition in Liguria during the period of Lent is “cappon magro”, which brings together products of the land (vegetables) with those of the sea (fish and shellfish), creating a plate of great taste and colour. The origins of this plate are old, “cappon magro” was initially a poor man’s plate, born out of the necessity to use leftover fish from soup (typically capon, a fish of little value), then adding vegetables. Its lavish appearance suggests that it re-emerged in the plentiful Baroque era, a time when abundance also reigned in the kitchen. “Bagnun” (a soup made with anchovies) is a typical recipe of the Western Italian Riviera, especially in Sestri Levante and Riva Trigoso, where every year a festival with the same name takes place. It originates from the strong necessity to provide sailors with fresh food products of easy retrieval during long periods of navigation.

Anchovies Bagnun

A Treat to the Palate In the entire hinterland of Liguria, honey is one of the most natural foods that exists, as it does not require any treatment, neither in production nor for preservation. The typical honeys are produced from indigenous nectars from the flora of the hinterland: chestnut, acacia, heather, strawberry tree and yarrows. The colour of acacia honey is straw yellow, chestnut honey is amber and the yarrow honey varies from light to dark shades depending on the presence of honeydew. Just as the colour varies, so does the flavour: for example chestnut honey tends to be more bitter than that of acacia or yarrow.

Amaretti di Sassello

The most extensive production, which is famous worldwide, is the one made which has been made for about three centuries in Liguria, in the area of Savona. Here “chinotti” lie in a coastal zone from 2 to 300 meters above sea level, between Varazze and Finale, extending deep into the valleys. The Genoese “pandolce” (sweet cake) has a circular shape with a diameter ranging from

Sestri Levante

Genoese Pandolce

The coast and the hinterland between Varazze and the Finale Ligure in the province of Savona is the production location for the bitter orange of Savona; the fruit comes prepared in different ways: syruped, candied, in liquor, in elixirs, as jam and as a mustard.

Another fish recipe typical of the east, in particular Sestri Levante and Chiavari, is “Ciuppín”, a fish soup accompanied by a piece of toasted bread, made using low grade fish, but very flavourful none the less. The fish is mixed with onions, flavoring, tomatoes, parsley, white wine, salt and extra virgin olive oil made from Ligurian olives. Originally it was more watery then it is today, as the name sûppin, meaning a thinner soup, suggests.

“Capponadda” could simply be defined as the “salad of the sailor”. It’s a dish born aboard ships, where there was no possibility of cooking and where it was necessary to eat sufficiently moist dishes that quench thirst, while not causing sea sickness. It is made with “gallette del marinaio” (hard bread), salad tomatoes, preferably the “cuore di bue” variety, salted anchovy fillets (or musciàmme), black olives, capers, hardboiled eggs (optional), pickles (optional), extra virgin olive oil made from Ligurian olives, vinegar and salt.

25/30 cm and sometimes from 10/15 cm. The inside is stuffed with pine nuts, raisins, pieces of candied fruit, fennel seeds and crushed pistachios, all flavoured with orange flower water. The typical Christmas sweet of Genoa par excellence looks rough and it’s rich on the inside. The ingredients are of undeniable Arabic origin and Genoese merchants must have came across this cake on their voyages and brought it home, where, over the centuries, it was modified and enhanced.

The “amaretti di Sassello” are biscuits made from almond paste, with a soft consistency, typically in a round and flattened shape. In Sassello the production of “amaretti” began in the 17th century and the recipe has remained unchanged. The renowned little sweet is celebrated every July during the homonymous festival. Sassello, a small village near Savona was the first town in Italy to be awarded the orange flag. It is an environmental tourist quality seal awarded by Italian Touring Club; it is given to small resorts of the hinterland that stand out for their offer of excellence and a quality reception. “Spongata” is a typical sweet from Sarzana, in the hinterland of La Spezia; it’s made from two sheets of flour, which are embossed using different old stamps made of wood. The top sheet is perforated to allow the correct amount of cooking in the interior. They are made delicious thanks to their filling, a kind of jam, spread between the folds, enriched with pine nuts,

almonds, spices and other flavourings. The round shape of the pie is created by merging the two discs and pressing the edges with a special compass. It is the traditional Christmas sweet. The town of Sarzana has always been an important communications crossroad; it is located at the end of the Magra Valley, only a few kilometres from the estuary of the river, in a relatively flat area known as the “Piana di Sarzana” (Plain of Sarzana). Inhabited since Neolithic times, people can still visit its ancient fortresses, towers and palaces. Another typical sweet from the hinterland of the La Spezia is “Buccellato”, a sweet cake oven cooked in the shape of a doughnut, with a diameter of around 25 cm and 5 or 6 cm thick sprinkled with powdered sugar. “Cavagnetto di Brugnato” is a sweet in the shape of a small basket with a handle, in which a whole shelled egg is placed; it is part of local Easter tradition. “Baci di Alassio” are also called “Baci della riviera” and are made with hazelnuts, egg whites, honey and sugar; the cream that connects the two semicircles is made of chocolate and boiled cream. The town of Alassio is one of the most famous beach resorts of the Western Italian Riviera. Since the Fifties it has been a popular destination for VIPs along with Portofino and San Remo.

Baci di Alassio

“Michetta” is a small, sweet, oval shaped pastry, classically in the form of a knot; the more modern one has a length of 4 cm and a width of 2 cm. It is a sweet spread throughout the Nervia Valley, in particular in Dolceacqua. Dolceacqua is an old village famous for its medieval bridge, which fascinated Claude Monet, for its “Rossese” wine loved by pope Paul III, the Doria family, and Napoleon and for its “michetta”, a special type of white bread. Legend has it that the young brides brought “michette” to feudal lords who held the right of “ius primae noctis” and offered it as a symbol of their virginity, therefore avoiding the obstacle.

Other regional agricultural products

Floriculture in the Liguria region Nursery gardening represents around 6% of the total value of national agricultural production. On a national level, Liguria is the most important region in this sector, with a marked concentration in Imperia and Savona. Regional specialization and the presence of actors representing the complete chain (education, research, production, marketing) has pushed the Regional Authority to establish the specific Nursery Gardening agricultural district of Western Liguria. Production can be divided into five main types (which indicate the most important productions): Cut flowers (rose, buttercup, anemone) - represent about one quarter of the total Italian production, Leaves and fronds (green, flowering and with fruit), cut (mimosa, broom, ruscus, eucalyptus, pittosporum, etc.), Ornamental plants in pots (cyclamen, daisy, geranium, etc.), Potted herbs (basil, mint, lavender, sage, rosemary), Succulents (several hundreds of species). The products, even within the five main categories, are extremely assorted, thanks to a great diversification in species and varieties. The are more than 5,000 companies working in this sector in Liguria, from breeders and farmers to traders, transporters and artisans, and has a total estimated turnover of 500 million Euros. Other than the national market, foreign markets include Holland, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and more generally central Northern Europe. In addition, some products are also popular in North America and the Far East. “Infiorata” (flower art festival) - Diano Marina

Greenhouses

“Canestrello” is a typical sweet of the Genoese hinterland (Aveto Valley, Trebbia Valley and Varenna Valley), but also of Savona and La Spezia; it is shaped like a doughnut with a central hole, good for breakfast and even more appropriate as a snack with tea or sweet wine. These soft and crumbly shortbread biscuits are recognizable by the scalloping of the edges and plenty of butter, which provides an unquestionable goodness. “Cubaite”, probably of Eastern origin, is a dessert popular in Liguria. It typically consists of two pods with a filling made with hazelnuts, walnuts or almonds, orange peel and honey. In this area, it was traditionally prepared for special religious occasions and festivities.

Canestrelli

Sources www.terragir.it The European Community Project website Terragir www.agriligurianet.it Agricultural portal of the Liguria Regional Authority www.turismoinliguria.it Tourism portal of the Liguria Regional Authority www.tasteofriviera.com Portal of typical local products and traditions of the Province of Savona

Genova - Porta Soprana

www.distrettofloricololiguria.it The website of the District Agricultural Nursery gardening Association of Western Liguria Consortium of the Genoese Pesto sauce Official head office: Via Cesarea 8 - 16121 Genova www.parco-basilico.it The site of the “Parco del Basilico di Genoa Prà” (literally the Basil Park of Genoa, Prà district)

Imperia Oneglia - Port

Ligurian Chamber of Commerce: Genova: www.ge.camcom.gov.it Imperia: www.im.camcom.it Savona: www.sv.camcom.gov.it La Spezia: www.sp.camcom.it Unioncamere Liguri: www.lig.camcom.it www.liguria.coldiretti.it The website of Coldiretti Liguria

Cervo - Imperia

www.confagricolturaliguria.net The website of Confagricoltura della Liguria www.cialiguria.it The website of the Confederazione Italiana Agricoltori della Liguria www.stravinolio.com La Strada del Vino e dell’Olio dalle Alpi al Mare www.agenziadisviluppogalgenovese.com

www.turismoinliguria.it

Varigotti - Savona