New York has a new French eatery, and it’s gluten-free.
The Story of Noglu Noglu’s adventure began with Frédérique Jules, an entrepreneur who discovered she had celiac disease in 2000. Long before “Gluten-free” found its way to TV and magazine covers, she struggled to find a way to change her diet in a country where everything was about carbs… gluten-loaded carbs! That’s how she took it upon herself to cook and get inventive about her recipes. Luckily, this period was also the year when she started to travel more and more regularly to the US. There, she discovered how to substitute flours, how to recreate classics without gluten, and how to make it taste good – and even delicious! After a few years in the States, where she got used to the local gastronomy and the many readily available gluten-free options, she came back to Paris and decided to open her first restaurant. Frédérique, a foodie with an eye pour design, liked to eat out in lovely places where she could satisfy both her appetite and her artistic sensibilities. This was exactly the direction she had in mind for her restaurant. In 2012, Noglu was born in the middle of a “passage” –a typical Parisian indoor alley dotted with small shops, bakeries and restaurants. A small gem in a busy neighborhood, this first restaurant garnered a lot of attention with its cozy atmosphere and its French pastries, sandwiches and quiches. It became so popular that Frédérique decided to open a second location just two years later, with a take-out menu only,
Crafting the Perfect
Menu
Like Rome, Noglu’s menu was not built in a day! It took Frédérique years to figure out her own recipes and, convinced she would only benefit from others’ experiences, she decided to surround herself with chefs from different backgrounds, cultures and training. A Japanese chef with an extensive knowledge of seafood brought Noglu his expertise for fresh and savory dishes, and an American pastry chef brought her own unique craftsmanship to the table. Together, they used the kitchen as a laboratory –and named it so. The menu was made seasonal to use the freshest and most local produce possible. The team tweaked every recipe before offering it to their customers. Flavors, textures, design… everything has to be perfect before an item can make it to the menu. But where other gluten-free brands go to extremes to create “everything-free” items, the team has drawn a clear line on taste: if they cannot create something that is delicious, they simply will not sell it. Hence the presence of lactose in the pies: the chefs deemed it inconceivable to craft good dough without butter! Yet, they succeeded in adapting the recipes for every French classic: éclairs and other cream puff pastries, cakes, quiches, pies and tarts - even the famous apple tarte tatin or Bordeaux’ well-known canelés (see p 12)! As a result, they are proud to be one of the few French restaurants with an exquisite, fully organic & gluten-free, locally-sourced menu with vegan and dairy-free options today… If not the only one!
Introducing Noglu NY Modeled after the Parisian establishments, New York’s Noglu was conceived of as your go-to place for allergen-free treats. Not only is it a restaurant, it’s also a grocery store, a take-out eatery, and a food lab! On the first floor, the grocery store and take-out corner. The open shop design invites customers to explore Noglu’s shelves, then wander to the other side of the room, where all the delectable take-out items are laid out: French pastries, quiches, pies, cakes, salads... Select a loaf of bread, your lunch for the day, or a cake for tonight’s dinner party, then pay and go. On the other side of the counter, the chef will be busy working on new recipes and orders. Indeed, Noglu is already a purveyor of delicious gluten-free options for the most renowned Parisian hotels, and will soon be the kitchen of choice for the most demanding chefs in Manhattan. A few steps up and you reach the restaurant on the second floor. Here is where people can stop and enjoy a gluten-free pastry in the morning, a light dish for lunch, or a romantic dinner at night. With only a few tables, the restaurant is a quiet haven in this part of Manhattan. Open every day from 8 to 10, Noglu will quickly become the place where parents and nannies stop by during the day to satisfy a craving for a delicious treat with the kids, and friends plan an elegant yet relaxed brunch party on Sundays…
The Chefs As in Paris, the New York team is diverse. An Italian chef, Filippo Giraldini manages the restaurant staff, composed of head pastry chef Cécilia Grissa and her team. Both chefs already have an extensive training and experience in French, Italian, American & gluten-free cuisine. After a few months of training at Noglu Paris, they will carry on Noglu’s traditions and know-how to present New Yorkers with delicious gluten-free French classics. A team favorite, gougères are simple and quick to make, and round out a last-minute wine & cheese night between friends very nicely.
Parmesan Gougères Recipe
makes about 30 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes
250 ml / 1 cup of water 100 g / 3 1/4 oz vegetable margarine 2 pinches salt 150 g / 5 1/2 oz rize flour 200 g / 7 oz parmesan cheese, grated 4 eggs
poppy seed gougères
Preheat oven to 180 C (350 F / Gas 4) In a saucepan. boil the water with the margarine and salt. Once the margarine has completely melted, add the rice flour and mix vigorously with a whisk. Add 150g (5 1/2 oz) of the grated parmesan and the eggs and whisk until the dough is smooth and glossy. Put dough into a pipping (icing) bag and pipe about 30 small balls onto a baking tray lined with baking paper. Sprinkle over with the remaining parmesan. Bake for 20 minutes, serve immediately.
Putting
Customers
First
Like in France, Noglu’s team in New York has three priorities: quality, taste, and safety. Quality & Taste Noglu works only with organic products: they taste every product carefully before deciding to work with a supplier. Noglu also sources all of their ingredients locally to reduce their carbon foot print as much as possible. After all, Noglu is not only a France-born bakery, it is also a local business! Why not support the local economy? See Noglu as your new French AND local option for brunch! Safety From baking to selling, everything is handled with the utmost care. Since last year in France, all take-out establishments must clearly indicate allergens present in or around food products. Noglu applied these same standards of quality in their New York location. Employees have also received dedicated training in safe food handling to avoid allergen contamination when cooking a new dish and in order to guarantee the safest allergen-free treats for their customers.
gOod Without Gluten
The Book
Not every celiac person lives in Paris. For those who love the restaurant… and who cannot eat there every day, Frédérique Jules decided to write a book with her two fellow chefs in 2013. As an introduction, the reader will find a lot of advice to know how to shop, how to cook and how to enjoy food when you have to rid gluten of your life. The book contains more than 50 recipes, all tested and perfected by the chefs. Already translated in Spanish and Italian, the English version is now available on Amazon and in the store!
‘‘Our gluten-free gingerbread reminds me of my childhood after-school snacks. I usually enjoy it with fresh fruits – especially figs – to balance and enhance the hints of nutmeg, clove and cinnamon. ’’ Frédérique Jules
A Growing
Success
Noglu’s unique gluten-free offering has propelled its success. The company has secured partnerships they can take pride in: some of the most prestigious restaurants and hotels in Paris have already added Frédérique Jules to their supplier list: her bread, and especially her granola don’t compare to anything else, and offer a great gluten-free alternative to the most demanding consumers! To name a few establishments: the Mandarin Oriental, Park Hyatt, or the Costes Hotels have been offering Noglu’s bread and pastries in the past years. The success of Noglu has also attracted the most renowned international fashion, luxury & beauty brands based in Paris and interested in offering gluten-free and healthy options to their guests during their launch events. Noglu has catered for Dior, Chanel, Aesop, Clarins, Eleven Paris, Iro, Kenzo, H&M, Converse, Publicis, Ubiq, Kitsuné… In New York, the UN already used her catering menu for an evening discussion about the evolution of the business of fashion and beauty. In only 3 years, the small restaurant’s reputation has grown so big that all the national magazines have buzzed about it. Testament to their popularity: even Marie Claire or Vanity Fair US have also recommended the bakery to their readers.
Opening Hours Monday to Saturday From 8:00AM to 10:00PM Sunday - brunch menu From 10:00AM to 4:00PM
&
Contact
Reservations Noglu is located at 1266 Madison Avenue, between the 90th & 91st streets The restaurant doesn’t take reservations. Noglu is available for private events. +1 (646) 895 9798 Noglu NY
NogluNY@gmail.com @NogluNY