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dear foo d ie s & fr i en d s We are so excited to share with you the Fall 2018 issue of Bite Magazine! As we are preparing for another cold Chicago winter, we wanted to dedicate this issue to the last cozy days of autumn, before the snow sets in until spring. As in every issue of our magazine, we are constantly looking for new eats and exciting food discoveries, all while appreciating the community that brings us together. We want to recognize the origins of the food we consume, and the respective cultures and communities of the food we enjoy. Within the pages of this issue, you’ll find that we’ve created and adapted recipes from all over the world that are delectable and delightful–from a longlasting, traditional Filipino cake (p.23) to Mary Shelley’s favorite tartine (p.25). We’ve researched new food cultures and trends for you to learn and love just as we do. Additionally, we’ve delved into newly opened restaurants across Chicago and given our impressions of how well they have fared since opening–some, like Passerotto (p. 5) and Twain (p.8), have done better than others, but we’ll leave it up to you to give the final verdict. As you read through these pages, we hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed creating it!
the editors 2
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table of contents 4 twain 5 PASSEROTTO 6 WINGS BATTLE 7 aloha wagon 8 PACIFIC STANDARD TIME 9 Fête du fromage 12 superfoods 14 cookbooks 16 uchicago (Microbial) culture 19 indian subcuisines 22 simit bread 23 mango royale 24 fresh beet salad 25 mary shelley’s kale & egg tartine 26 curing salmon Editor-in-Chief paige resnick Managing editor Melanie wang creative director suhasni singh blog editor alyce oh photography director yarra elmasry communications director michelle zhou programming DIRECTOR michelle gao designers bonnie hu, elaine wan, emily her, evan xiang, grace bridges, jihana mendu, nora lin, QINGFENG CHAI, yolanda yu writers Amanda Wilson, analiese Batchelor, ben miller, ed Schmeltzer, Emily Kang, joseph donahue, Katie mcPolin, lily Levine, moyo Abiona, sarah Lauren Peabody, seth Markow, tori Lawless, wendy Zheng photographers ANDY ZHAO, alden Herrera, ANGELA FUNG, brandon Zang, cameron lam, grace peguese, giovanna DeCastro, george Saieed, julia Rose Camus, shreya Minama Reddy COVER PHOTO yarra elmasry
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REVIEW
TWAIN BY EMILY KANG PHOTOS BY GRACE PEGUESE >> NEIGHBORHOOD LOGAN SQUARE >> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
GRAHAM’S ANTS ON A LOG SLOPPY MARROW PEANUT BUTTER AND CHOCOLATE SHEET CAKE
As a St. Louis native, when I heard about fellow Missourian Tim Graham’s latest venture, I was skeptical to say the least. Twain, which opened August 24 of 2018, sees Graham infuse classic Midwestern dishes with his culinary expertise. Dishes such as a Surf and Turf with meatloaf and unagi piqued my interest, though I was doubtful of these twists on some of my childhood favorites. Entering the beautiful yet cozy Logan Square restaurant, we were immediately greeted by a friendly hostess. The dimly lit restaurant was equally warm and welcoming. With exposed wood and rustic-inspired art, Twain’s decor marries modernity and classic comfort, setting the tone for the food to follow. First, we tried Graham’s Ants on a Log, which featured a duck liver peanut butter mousse and bourbon cherries. The peanut and duck seemed an unlikely combination to me, but the saltiness of the peanut butter complimented the richness of the duck wonderfully. The cherries added a touch of sweetness, while the celery was remarkably crisp. This elevation of a simple snack was surprising but very successful. We also tried the Sloppy Marrow, a roast bone marrow topped with sloppy joe and served with white bread. It was rich and beautifully seasoned, taking on a classic sloppy joe flavor profile and heightening it with the buttery marrow. I could feel my skepticism melting away with each rich yet balanced bite. For my main course, I tried the 4
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aforementioned Surf and Turf that had captured my attention. The meatloaf was grilled, creating a lovely contrast between the crispy outside and tender interior. Adding unagi on top brought an incredible richness and a touch of sweetness to the dish. It paired well with the savory and earthy red miso mash potato. The dish also came with nori crusted onion rings, which were perfectly light and crisp, and added just the right amount of saltiness. However, I did feel that the dish lacked the acidity that a ketchup sauce normally brings to meatloaf. Nevertheless, despite my initial skepticism, I was impressed and thoroughly enjoyed the dish. We finished the night with the Cinnamon Gooey Butter Cake and the daily special, a hand-cranked vanilla ice cream with peanut butter and chocolate sheet cake, for dessert. The meal was already delightful, but these desserts made the night. While I do push back on the name “gooey butter cake,” as it was less gooey than the St. Louis specialty, it was still delicious. However, the sheet cake stole the show. Featuring a delicate cake, remarkably light frosting, and crisp bits of chocolate, the dish was perfectly balanced and the ideal way to end the night. I admit to my initial dubiety, but I am happy to say Twain pleasantly surprised me. From the decor, to the service, to the food, Twain exudes Midwestern hospitality, and I look forward to returning to Twain to try the rest of Graham’s wellcrafted menu.
BY AMANDA WILSON PHOTOS BY JULIA ROSE CAMUS >> NEIGHBORHOOD ANDERSONVILLE >> PRICES $$$
REVIEW
PASSEROTO The reward for trekking to Andersonville, nearly the northern border of the Chicago city limits, is a welldeserved meal at Passerotto. The name stems from Chicago-area chef Jennifer Kim’s childhood nickname chamsae, which translates from Korean to “little sparrow” in English; further translating the phrase into Italian yields the name of the restaurant, passerotto. The use of Italian is intentional: the restaurant marries traditional Korean dishes to Italian techniques. The ambiance leans towards a quaint European vibe–think Call Me By Your Name-esque bright accent colors and rustic brick walls. The drinks too showcase a variety of influences: homemade Italian sodas, local Chicago beers, East Asian hot teas, and cocktails with the most tasteful fusion of Eastern and Western flavors I have come across. The menu is succinct, with just a few dishes in each of the ‘raw’, ‘small’, ‘noodles + rice’, and ‘for two’ categories. As with all the plates in the ‘raw’ section, the Scottish Salmon is served sashimistyle, the brininess of the fish cut by a quite flavorful olive oil, fresh mint, and pomegranate seeds. Jumping on the sweet potato trend, Kim has created one of the most unique sweet potato small plates in Chicago. Sweet Potato features the denser, more complex Japanese sweet potatoes atop a fluffy tofu puree, finished with togarashi, a Japanese spice blend with chili powder and sesame seeds, which adds just a touch of heat to offset the sweet potatoes’ richness. The ‘noodles + rice’ section is where
>> DISHES TO TRY
DDUKBOKKI LAMB RAGU SWEET POTATO KING MANDU
Kim shines brightest. If you order one item from this section, get the Ddukbokki Lamb Ragu. Long and round as your pinky finger, ddukbokki noodles are made from rice flour, making them particularly chewy. They’re pan-fried before being tossed in the ragu, resulting in the most texturally-interesting, not to mention delectable, dish on the menu. Another star is the King Mandu: it features large, round dumplings packed with tender beef in a velvety sauce made from rugosa squash, a cousin of butternut squash. Trout roe and pickled radishes are nestled on top of each dumpling to ensure that their salt-and-vinegar punch contributes to every bite. Only two options lie in the ‘for two’ section: Kalbi, beef short rib, and Cacciuccu Soondubub, a hearty fish stew. Both proteins are brought to the table on a wooden slab with a handful of banchan, Korean side dishes. Kimchi and bean sprouts make an appearance here, as well as more unusual offerings, like a potato-apple salad that balances the savory proteins. Though labelled ‘for two’, a more appropriate title might be ‘for four’; the ‘for two’s are large enough to serve a group. The only dessert is Cantuccini, a soft almond and apricot biscotti served with a glass of sweet raisin wine. Both the wine and biscotti are elegant and delicious, but the lack of a typically-American dessert option is tangible. Despite that, Passerotto has received well-deserved hype since its opening in May. If you can bear the trek to Andersonville, your journey will be well-rewarded. reviews
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REVIEW
WINGS BATTLE BY SETH MARKOW PHOTOS BY GEORGE SAIEED
>> SUPER SHARK’S
>> CARL’S RED HOTS
>> NEIGHBORHOOD SOUTHSIDE
>> PRICES
$
>> DISHES TRIED
BUFFALO WINGS
At the corner of Jeffery Avenue and 83rd Street, there stand two small joints typical of the Chicago southside: Super Shark’s and Carl’s Red Hots. The first is reminiscent of a JJ’s Fish and Chicken, a popular fried food spot where everything is served with fries. If you haven’t been to one, you’ve definitely seen them before. Carl’s Red Hots, on the other hand is something like a Wienerschnitzel, or an italian beef joint, with countless pictures of hot dogs and sandwiches piled high with meat lining its doorway and windows. What these two places have in common is fried chicken wings. Since I first spotted Super Shark’s and Carl’s Red Hots right across the street from one another a few months ago I’ve imagined that the two places were fierce rivals in the hot wings business. There was only one way to find out which one was actually better. I ordered half a dozen buffalo wings from each place and posted up at the counter of Carl’s to try the two platters out. Super Shark’s wings came as full fried wings covered in a classic red-orange buffalo sauce on a bed of fries with coleslaw and ketchup. Carl’s Red Hots were served as wingettes and drumettes coated in an—as advertised—red buffalo sauce next to thin-cut fries with ranch on the side. The two sets of wings were spicy in very different ways. The buffalo sauce from Super Shark’s was a more classic buffalo spice with little up-front punch but 6
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a slow spicy-sour simmer that stuck around and built with each wing I ate. Carl’s Red Hots were more straightforward, they started at peak spiciness and dropped from there so that by the time I moved on to the next wing, my mouth was already simmered down. It was well-suited for the ranch–which made it both creamy and spicy at the same time– but on its own, the spice was lacking. The chicken itself differed mostly in texture. Carl’s wings had a fluffiness that reminded me of the chicken dinosaurs they serve in elementary school cafeterias, an effect that was emphasized by the thicker, bready batter that coated the wings. Super Shark’s was what I expected from a chicken wing: it had the tender quality of dark meat that makes it come easily off the bone and also was full of rich niblets of meat lurking between bones that I really had to be willing to get my lips covered in buffalo sauce to get at. For some, the chicken dinosaur texture is what they crave, but personally, I’ll take the classic wings experience any day. While I expected Carl’s thin-cut fries to be crispier and more enjoyable, they turned out somewhat dry, whereas Super Shark’s fries had absorbed just the perfect amount of buffalo sauce from the wings to be slightly soft and spicy. The winner here was obvious; Super Shark’s not only had better fries and chicken, but also had a more satisfying sauce to go with it.
The first time I saw Aloha Wagon, I was gazing out the window of a southbound 49 when a small brightly colored yellow and blue shack on the corner of Western and Ogden caught my eye. I was surprised, as it was nestled in the middle of blocks upon blocks of grey manufacturing buildings in Tri-Taylor. Little did I know, that just a few months later, I would dine at what just might be one of my favorite family owned restaurants in all of Chicago. Aloha Wagon is owned and operated by Rebecca Romo and Richard Manongdo, a wife and husband duo who owned a food truck in Oahu by the same name for 6 years. The couple met when Rebecca was working on a cruise ship in Hawaii and have since had a family and transplanted their business to a permanent location in Tri-Taylor, the neighborhood that Rebecca grew up in. Rebecca works the register, while Richard does all the cooking in this small, counter-seating only restaurant. The familial service and warm atmosphere make you feel like you have been transplanted straight into their living room–a place filled with sentimental family photos of Hawaii, with tantalizing smells of soy marinated chicken wafting up from the griddle, and little succulents in emptied cans of Spam scattered on the counters. Although the restaurant specializes in Hawaiian plate lunches, its owners also prepare a variety of delicious specials like pozole and adobo that honor Rebecca’s Mexican and Richard’s Filipino heritage. I wanted to try a little bit of everything, so I made sure I had no other plans to eat that Saturday and
ordered a combo plate lunch with loco moco and chicken adobo, Spam musubi, and fish tacos with a wonderfully sharp wasabi aioli for lunch. The portions were huge, each Spam musubi clocking in at least a half a pound and the takeout container with the plate lunch nearly giving in from the sheer weight of the main dishes, mac and potato salad, greens, and rice. However, Aloha Wagon definitely does not compensate quality for quantity, as everything was made to order, perfectly cooked, and extremely flavorful. The loco moco was very satiating, with the smooth gravy and runny yolk evenly coating every kernel of rice with a robust beefy flavor. The chicken adobo was incredibly juicy and spectacularly seasoned, and the accompanying salads provided much needed contrast with the creamy tartness from the mayo and refreshing bite of the mixed greens. The Spam musubi was surprisingly flavorful as the slightly warmed rice was coated in a faintly sweet soy based sauce that enhanced the salty flavor of the seared Spam. The unexpected show stopper of the meal for me was the fish tacos, as the tender grilled fish was the ideal base for the homemade chile de arbol sauce and wasabi aioli, creating a symphony of textures and flavors. Despite the increasing popularity and appropriation of Hawaiian foods as seen by the influx of embarrassingly mediocre fast casual poke restaurants (@Zach Friedlander), Aloha Wagon is a diamond in the rough with its charming interior, lovely owners, and most importantly, mind-blowingly delicious and wholesome food.
REVIEW
ALOHA WAGON BY WENDY ZHENG PHOTOS BY GIOVANNA DECASTRO
>> NEIGHBORHOOD TRI-TAYLOR >> PRICES $
>> DISHES TO TRY FISH TACOS PLATE LUNCH
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REVIEW
PACIFIC STANDARD TIME BY MELANIE WANG PHOTOS BY MICHELLE ZHOU >> NEIGHBORHOOD RIVER NORTH >> PRICE: $$$ >> DISHES TO TRY: PULL APART MILK ROLLS, SOURDOUGH PANCAKES, BRUNCH POTATOES Unassuming and easy to pass by on the street, Pacific Standard Time–or PST, as some like to call it–sits on the street corner opposite Fogo de Chão; the only indication you are in the right place is rather small, block lettering immediately atop the door. The space is well-lit and open, featuring wooden furniture and marbled countertops that allow the natural light to seep in and bounce off the room. There are green plants, clean tiling, and light wooden fixtures throughout the restaurant, lending it a bright and warm vibe even on a dreary Chicago morning. The product of Chef Erling WuBower and Josh Tilden, PST boasts an impressive pedigree and thus has generated much hype leading up to its opening. Created as a west coastinspired restaurant, PST is meant to transport the diners out of the Windy City and straight to the warm California coast. The “warmth” of the restaurant may come from the twin wood-burning hearth ovens, but regardless of how it’s done, the restaurant certainly emits a cozy vibe. The restaurant–having opened in summer 2018 after much anticipation– both lived up to and fell short of the hype that surrounded it. Perhaps the dinner would be better, as the brunch was fairly average given the price tag; the food and service were good, but nothing spectacular in the midst of River North, home to some of the most 8
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tantalizing and mouthwatering brunch dishes in the area. That being said, the brunch menu at PST does boast some winners, most notably their pastries. The pull apart milk rolls come highly recommended, and for good reason; eating one of these rolls is akin to biting into the warmest, fluffiest, and most delightful version of an everything bagel reincarnated. Think all the flavors and spices of an everything bagel, but in the most delectable and soft roll, straight out of a cast iron pan. Nothing else quite dazzled like the rolls did, but the sourdough pancakes held their own. Fluffy in their own right and topped with whipped cream, candied ginger and nuts, the pancakes provided the right amount of sweetness and crunch without being too heavy. If you are a California local looking for avocado toast from home, I’d encourage you to keep looking. To any connoisseur, the toast would fail one of the key tests: the bread was a bit too soft and not thick or substantial enough to support the toppings, making the whole experience rather disappointing for our local Californian. The banh mi was fresh and sat atop a great slice of bread, although it was a bit too salty, while the hash was overly vinegary. These are small mistakes that new restaurants commonly make, so I expect that the next time I return to PST, it will have changed for the better.
an introduction to fermentation and homemade kombucha
uc6 h12 icago6 (microbial) culture
BY TORI LAWLESS PHOTOS BY CAMERON LAM
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Fermentation is an anaerobic metabolic process carried out by bacteria and yeast. This process is similar to our own metabolism, with glucose or fructose as the starting reactants. However, in contrast to aerobic respiration, in anaerobic respiration these microbes produce lactic acid and ethanol as metabolic side products, both of which impart that characteristic funkiness (as well as alcohol content, in some cases) to fermented products. This is the founding principle behind wine and beer, cheese and yogurt, sauerkraut and kimchi, and much more. If left unpasteurized, these products will contain live bacteria and yeast, which interact with your natural gut microflora to aid in digestion and boost your immunity. These so-called “probiotics” are certainly not a panacea and, like all things, shouldn’t be consumed in excess. But scientists are only just beginning to understand how the bacteria that line the gut can interact with your body. The more we learn about the microbiome, the more we recognize its importance in maintaining overall health. So making sure you’re getting probiotics, whether by supplements, yogurt, or a refreshing glass of kombucha, is likely a smart choice.
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spiced apple kombucha
If you look in the drink section of almost any grocery store nowadays, you’ll see bottles of kombucha of various types, advertising all sorts of health benefits. Ever wondered what exactly gives kombucha its characteristic, funky flavor? Or maybe you’re already an avid kombucha drinker and want to try your hand at home-brewing? Even if you just want to know what the phrase “Live & Active Cultures” means on the label of your yogurt container, I hope this article will serve as a brief introduction to the lesser-known microcosm of the culinary world: fermentation!
Kombucha is a fermented tea that originated in China around 200 BC. Making basic kombucha requires two components: sweetened tea and SCOBY, or Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast. The sugar in the former is metabolized by the latter over the course of a few weeks and is eventually replaced by the SCOBY’s metabolic byproducts. After just this primary fermentation, the kombucha won’t taste like what you find in stores because it will be flat. To make a fizzy, carbonated version, you’ll need to aliquot the kombucha into an airtight bottle and let the carbon dioxide (also produced by the SCOBY) build up for about a week before serving. I always carry out this secondary fermentation, not just for a satisfying fizz, but also because at this stage you can flavor your kombucha. The possibilities for flavors from adding fruit juice to spices - are endless and subject to personal preference. Here I’ve included my basic recipe for kombucha, as well as a suggested flavoring for the coldweather season. Save for a few unique materials (SCOBY, glass jars, cheesecloth), brewing your own kombucha is an easy and enjoyable process. I encourage you to experiment to find the brew method that you prefer, as virtually every step of the process can be modified to your liking. With a bit of practice, you’ll soon be a pro at brewing your own signature “buch” all year round! equipment 1 large, wide-mouthed glass vessel (I recommend glass drink dispensers with a spigot for easy bottling) Cheesecloth Rubber band Airtight glass bottles (flip-cap bottles work best here) 1 SCOBY in starter liquid* base kombucha 4 cups water 8 grams (~4 bags) of black or green tea (not Earl Grey, Jasmine, or other heavily-flavored teas...the essential oils may inhibit fermentation) 1/3 cup of sugar or to taste spiced apple cider 2 cups apple juice 1/2 cinnamon stick 2 cloves ¼ orange, cut into slices 1 teaspoon diced or grated ginger
1 2 *
Bring 2 cups water to boil in a medium pot. Remove from heat, add tea and sugar, steep for 5 minutes and stir to dissolve sugar. Add remaining 2 cups cold water to bring tea to room temperature. Combine sweet tea (strained, if using loose leaf ) with SCOBY and starter liquid in large glass vessel. Cover opening with cheesecloth and secure with rubber band. Place vessel in warm place away from direct sunlight, and wait 2 weeks or until kombucha tastes characteristically sour with a hint of sweetness. For the secondary fermentation, make spiced apple cider by combining all ingredients in medium pot, and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Wait until cool, then add ⅓ cup cider mixture (unstrained) to 1 ⅔ cup kombucha from primary fermentation in an airtight glass bottle. Wait ~5 days, without opening lid, then place bottle in fridge overnight to chill. Open bottle (be careful, contents are pressurized) and strain into cup to serve. Kombucha can safely be stored in the fridge to prevent further fermentation. SCOBY can be purchased online or made using store-bought kombucha. It’s essential that the SCOBY comes in a starter liquid of pre-existing kombucha for proper acidification of the new batch (this ensures that no unwanted bacteria can grow in your culture). If you’re at UChicago and want to request a SCOBY, find me on Facebook and I’ll be happy to give you some from my personal stock!
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super foods
photos by michelle zhou
cacao nibs by lily levine If you stroll down the aisles of your favorite grocery store, you will see some bags, jars, and tubs of exotic-sounding and hard-to-pronounce foods. More likely than not, these items will be labeled with the word “superfood,” a term that has seemingly granted some foods elite status over others. While this term is used as a marketing ploy to attract health-conscious consumers, it is worth taking a closer look in order to further understand it and its full benefits. The word “superfood” dates back to 1915, but was not conventionally used until the 1990s 1. It was originally used to describe wine in Kingston, Jamaica2, but it later began referring to nutraceuticals, or supplements that claim to improve one’s health. In recent years, the amount of knowledge surrounding food as well as the demand for healthy alternatives has encouraged the designation of specific foods as “super.” Today, a superfood is defined as any food that is beneficial to a person’s health because of its nutritional density in compounds like antioxidants, fiber, or fatty acids. While this term seems broad and was even banned from food labels in the EU in 2007, it does mean that many foods we think of as ordinary foods– like blueberries, oats, and garlic–are included in this list. Luckily, this means that you do not need to shell out $52 for a jar of reishi powder, but there are a few more affordable superfoods worth mentioning. The ones listed below offer a range of health benefits, have a long shelf-life, and are easy to incorporate into a variety of different dishes, both savory and sweet. 12
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maca powder The maca plant is native to Peru and is slightly earthy in taste and tan in color. It contains high amounts of vitamin C, copper, and fiber, possesses flavonoids, which may reduce stress and anxiety, as well as polyphenols and glucosinolates, which help protect your skin from UV radiation 3. It can be taken as a supplement, or discretely added to oatmeal, smoothies, and other baked goods without affecting the taste. Tip: Try to buy organic maca that has little to no heat treatment in order to receive the full range of nutrients.
This superfood is also found in Peru and is dark and bitter taste. This should not be confused with cocoa, however, which is chemically processed and roasted, consequently destroying many of the beneficial flavanols and antioxidants. Cacao contains 40 times more antioxidants–which absorbs free radicals from toxins in our environment–than blueberries do 4, and is the highest plantbased source of iron. It is packed with magnesium, which turns glucose into energy for proper brain function, and contains more calcium than cow’s milk does (without containing any dairy!). Cacao nibs make delicious additions to yogurt, baked goods, smoothies, and acai bowls. Tip: Be a mindful consumer by purchasing raw organic fairly traded cacao since the cacao industry is known to have especially bad worker conditions and low wages.
Eisinger, Amy. “No, but Really, What Makes Something a Superfood—and Is It worth the Hype?” Greatist, 11 July 2016, greatist.com/eat/ superfoods-what-makes-something-a-superfood. Accessed 28 Oct. 2018.
1
Safire, William. “Locavorism.” New York Times [New York City], 9 Oct. 2008, www.nytimes. com/2008/10/12/magazine/12wwln-safire-t.html?_ r=0. Accessed 28 Oct. 2018.
2
Palsdottir, Hrefna. “9 Benefits of Maca Root (and Potential Side Effects).” Health Line, Health Line Media, 30 Oct. 2016, www.healthline.com/ nutrition/benefits-of-maca-root#section13. Accessed 28 Oct. 2018.
3
Ellen, Buffy. “Cacao: 5 Little Known Benefits of This Amazonian Superfood.” Be Good Organics, 6 July 2013, begoodorganics.com/cacao-5-little-known-benefits-of-this-amazonian-superfood/. Accessed 28 Oct. 2018.
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goji berries
pumpkin seeds Also called “pepita” seeds, these often come shell-free and are green, flat, and oval. They are packed with polyunsaturated fatty acids, potassium, and vitamin B2, and the antioxidants that protect your cells from harmful free radicals. The magnesium helps regulate blood pressure and blood sugar levels, and the fiber is satiating and promotes a healthy digestive tract. Generously sprinkle these on top of salads or savory bowls to add a flavorful crunch. Tip: Look for sprouted pumpkin seeds, meaning they have been soaked in water and dried at low temperatures. This allows you to digest the food better while preserving the nutrients.
A raw goji berry is about the size of a fingertip and dark red in color. They are slightly sweet and chewy, and were traditionally used in Chinese medicine. They contain vitamin C and A, zinc, fiber, iron, as well as all 8 amino acids. They also contain nearly 10% of your daily value for protein, and the antioxidants, specifically zeaxanthin5, protect cells from breaking down. Add these dynamic fruits to sweet dishes, like muffins, granola, and smoothies, or include them in savory plates like roasted turkey, trail mix, and salads. Tip: Look for goji berries without added sugar to avoid a spike in blood sugar levels.
5 Carey, Elea, and Ana Gotter. “8 Healthy Facts about the Goji Berry.” Health Line, Healthline Media, 29 Sept. 2016, www. healthline.com/health/ goji-berry-facts#use. Accessed 28 Oct. 2018.
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On cookbooks Cookbooks are cursed by name alone; a simple word indicates that they are nothing more than formula sheets reserved for use in the kitchen. There are hundreds of volumes that are made to be consulted, rather than fully read: take a couple of recipes and return the book to the shelf. Despite this, there is an entire other world of cookbooks that are written in such a manner that encourages readers to actually read them. These are the type of book that should be celebrated and elevated; these are why the James Beard Foundation gives awards for cookbooks. Big and small, they can be interpreted as works of literature that reflect the lives, experiences, and viewpoints of authors or communities. One type of cookbook that aptly reflect a community’s condition is the type made collaboratively by a group of people. Churches and civic groups make these
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by joseph donahue illustrations by qingfeng chai
spiral-bound tomes, and sometimes they will be made on the occasion of a local festival. They are used often as a form of fundraising, or as a commemoration of events. More than any other type of cookbook, this style of cookbook has the power to hint at the state of cooking and community: recipes reveal the ingredients most frequently available, as well as prominent contributions from notable names. One church cookbook in my collection, from a congregation in Delaware, notes proudly in the front pages that Joe Biden’s wife submitted a recipe. One coastal community published an entire cookbook centered on oysters, while the North Carolina Blueberry Festival published “Best of the Blues II”, which takes the form of an intensely blue binder filled with hundreds of different blueberry-centric recipes– blueberries are an important crop in the region and
have been cultivated in the area for almost ninety years. On the other end, cookbooks written by a singular author can tell the story of a personal journey or indicate how family heritage influences the writer’s cooking today. In her cookbook “Ancient Grains for Modern Meals”, Maria Speck notes the points in her life–funerals, weddings, holidays–that she has used certain recipes, and frequently notes the influence of her German father and Greek mother on her cooking style. Missy Robbins, in “Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner … Life!”, breaks up the flow of recipes to tell personal stories that range from hilarious to poignant. She prefaces some ‘healthier’ recipes with her history of incredulity at–and eventual submission to–the Weight Watchers regime, and notes how events in her private life affected her professionally, writing frankly about her sense of burning out as a consequence of success. In his acclaimed book “My Bread”, Jim Lahey
intersperses baking instructions with ideas for what to do with the finished loaves, all while he tells his story of bread education to show the sources and development of his widely used “no-knead” method. In critically evaluating literature, the background of an author is examined. If serious research is being done, early drafts of the author’s work may be examined for hints into the creative process. After reading a wellwritten cookbook, readers should be able to fully appreciate the reason that the work was created and the audience it caters to; they may even have some insight into the dynamics between a community or a family, or what the authors’ refrigerators and pantries look like. It is a joy to see authors pour themselves into a work, and especially cooks into a cookbook, where they put their expertise and passion on the line for others to enjoy.
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a lesson in crafting a cheese plate like a Parisian
FÊTE DU FROMAGE
by Paige Resnick photos by Angela Fung
W
hile it is only 4pm, the sun has left the Paris sky almost entirely, and grey washes over the Rue du Champ de Mars in the 7th arrondissement, from the small storefronts to the cobblestone street. Up ahead, the lights from Fromager Marie-Anne Cantin bathe the sidewalk in a golden glow. The famed cheese shop, no larger than a bedroom, shines brightly amidst the otherwise greying evening. 150 different cheeses line the walls, one soft and creamy with a green, moldy crust, another with a dark stripe of truffles running through the pure white, another the length of my torso riddled with golf ball sized holes. Madame Marie-Anne Cantin, the shop’s owner and namesake since 1950, barks at her trio of male employees in curt French, her voice hoarse from decades of Gauloises cigarettes. These men in black coats run around the small shop carrying out her orders, slicing wedges of cheese with arm-length knives and quickly wrapping them in crisp white paper. Tourists wander and gaze around the store, wide-eyed like children, while local patrons quickly bustle in and out, merely ticking another errand off their list. Thomas, the youngest of the clerks, ushers us 16
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outside, placing baskets of flour-dusted bread and glasses of deep red wine on round tables at the shop’s entrance. Next come the plates for degustation, each with a selection of five different cheeses. Thomas describes the cheeses we will be tasting; a soft, creamy Saint Nectaire from Auvergne, a hard and mild summer Compté only 18 months old, a gooey Camembert, a mild blue cheese called Fume Auvergne, and lastly Rocamadour, a round, white goat cheese with a soft mouth-feel. Thomas’ classically French sarcasm pairs with the cheese perfectly, and his disappointment in the American approach to cheese is evident. Thomas follows the French method; he chooses cheese produced on family farms over processed junk, mocks the American love of crackers when there exist warm baguettes, and prefers to take a trip to the local fromagerie every week instead of buying a big orange block from Costco to last a month. “None of that American cheese stuff,” he says, rolling his eyes. To help guide Americans, Thomas gave all of his tips for crafting the perfect cheese plate for the next dinner party, girls’ night in, or even a midnight snack.
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Terroir
The term terroir is ofte used to describe the taste of wine and cheese, referring to the environmental conditions that affect taste. The soil, climate, and even grass that the cows eat impact the taste of the cheese.
Aging
Affinage, or aging specifically defined for cheese, is essential to the development of flavor. The older the cheese, the stronger the taste. During the aging process, mold develops on the outside of the cheese to form a natural rind. This rind is perfectly safe to eat and actually adds to the favor of the cheese, but you can also cut it off.
Wines
Just as different dishes pair best with certain wines, different cheeses complement different wines. Some cheeses pair best with white wine, while others, like goat cheese, pair best with red. Camembert actually pairs best with apple cider that is crafted in the same region and typically less sweet than the American variety. As a general rule, pair your cheese with wine from the same region, as the aforementioned terroir will carry through.
Order and Accompaniments
When pesenting or eating a cheese plate, do as the French do and pay careful attention to the order in which you are eating your cheeses. Start with the mildest cheese and make your way to the strongest one. Cheese is always eaten after the main course, not as an appetizer, and with bread, not crackers. Occasionally fruit–such as grapes–accompany the cheese, but the French often find this to be a little frivolous.
Jams
The French often pair their cheeses with jam for a hint of sweetness to contrast the salty nature of the cheese. Thomas recommends blackberry jam with cheese from sheep's milk, fig jam with goat cheese, and apple with camembert (pairing well with the apple cider from the same region).
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bite | fall 2018
BY BEN MILLER PHOTOS BY BRANDON ZANG
FROM MUMBAI TO MYSORE EXPLORING INDIA’S REGIONAL CUISINES
T
he nation of India is home to 1.3 billion people spread across 1.2 million square miles. Stretching from the peaks of the Himalayas to the Deccan Plateau to the beaches of Bengal, India possesses a geographical diversity surpassed only by the diversity of its people. Millennia of history have gifted the country unparalleled cultural variety, and over two thousand ethnic groups call India home. One of the few places where this diversity fails to shine is in the average Indian restaurant in the U.S. Most restaurants tend to offer a nearly-identical assortment of breads, curries, and desserts, making it seem like all of India cooks from the same six-page cookbook. In reality, the cuisines of India are as varied as its landscape and its people, with each region boasting its own unique set of flavors, ingredients and styles. Thanks to the vibrancy of Chicago’s South Asian community, there is no need to be limited to the same-old lineup of Indian dishes. Devon Avenue’s Desi Corridor offers dozens of delicious, affordable options for sampling the regional flavors are unique to Indian cuisine. This guide offers snapshots of what to look for and where to experience the full breadth of India’s culinary treasures.
NORTH INDIA The dishes people typical think of when they picture Indian food come from North India. Naan, korma, jalebi, and tandoori all hail from the north, as do more modern creations like butter chicken. Northern cuisine is fueled by thick, rich curries that draw influence from the area’s deep cultural connections with Central Asia. Quality North Indian food is the easiest regional cuisine to come by, and in Devon, a great place to start is Tiffin, a neighborhood standby that offers artful renditions of the region’s famous dishes.
20 bite | fall 2018
SOUTH INDIA Devon Avenue’s defining flavors arrive predominantly from South India, the place of origin for much of the neighborhood. South India is perfect for growing rice, tamarind, chilies, and lentils, all of which form the basis of the area’s cuisine. South Indian curries often skew more soup-like and frequently pair with savory grilled snacks. The place to try these unique dishes in Devon is Mysore Woodlands. The restaurant offers brilliant examples of South India’s curries, like the biting, tamarind-based rasam, and an even better selection of the region’s fried foods, including dosa, crunchy crêpes made from fermented rice, and uthappam, buoyant rice pancakes with onions and green chilis.
WESTERN INDIA The three states of Western India each have their own unique cuisines and styles. Maharashtra, home to Mumbai, boats some of India’s oldest restaurants as well as a bustling street food culture. Goa, controlled for centuries by Portugal, offers a slate of EuroIndian fusion dishes like Pork Vindaloo, while Gujarat is dominated by vegetarian options. The cafe inside Devon’s Kamdar Plaza grocery is a great option for trying the varying flavors of Western Indian cuisine. Especially energizing is Kamdar’s bhel puri, a beachside classic made from tangy, tamarind-topped rice puffs with an addictive crunch.
HYDERABAD Hyderabad is a major city in south-central India home to roughly 7 million people. The city and its surrounding region have a long history of independence and local pride to match, with a cuisine that fuses Turkish and Central Asian influences with the traditional ingredients and flavors of southern India. There is no better place to experience Hyderabadi cuisine than Devon’s Hyderabad House, which serves a tantalizing take on the region’s preeminent dish: Hyderabadi biryani. The melt-in-yourmouth mutton mixed into an overwhelming portion of basmati with saffron and coriander is a warming, heartful delight. If you are looking for a taste of Indian cuisine in Chicago, look no further than Devon’s. Pick a region, pick a restaurant, and immerse yourself in a unique new world of flavors.
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BY ANALIESE BATCHELORT PHOTOS BY ANDY ZHAO
SIMIT BREAD BY KATIE MCPOLIN PHOTOS BY SHREYA MINAMA REDDY Simit is a Turkish bread traditionally eaten at breakfast, or baked throughout the day and sold on the street. This comforting and dense yeasty bread is a great starter for someone who has never made bread from scratch before. These beautiful little rings are perfect alongside jam, cheese, or just a hot cup of tea. I adapted this recipe from a version on the King Arthur Flour website. (https://www.kingarthurflour. com/recipes/turkish-simit-breads-recipe?) 1 hour 30 minutes (including rest time) 45 minutes rising, 20 minutes baking makes 8 palm-size rings prep
GET Sponge 3 tbsp active dry yeast 1 tbsp sugar 1/4 cup water Crust 3 cups water 2 tbsp honey 1/2 cup sesame seeds
4 1/2 2 1
Dough All of the sponge cups flour tsp salt tbsp extra-virgin olive oil cup + 2 (generous) tbsp luke-warm water
cook
DO 1. To make the sponge, combine 1 tbsp active dry yeast, 1 tbsp sugar, and ¼ cup water in a small bowl. Cover the bowl and let it rest for 10 minutes. 2. Combine the sponge with the rest of the dough ingredients until the dough comes together. 3. Knead the dough for 10 minutes by hand (or use an electric mixer) until it’s smooth. 4. Place the dough in a greased bowl, cover, and let it rest for 30 minutes. 5. Once the dough has risen, divide it into 8 equal pieces. 6. Roll out each piece into a long rope (about the length of your cutting board). Fold each rope in half, pinch the folded end, and carefully twist each one. Once twisted, make each little rope into a ring by pinching the ends together. 7. Combine the 3 cups water and 2 tbsp honey -- this will be a water bath for each ring that will allow the sesame seeds to stick to the outside. Pour out sesame seeds into a shallow dish or pan. 8. Carefully dip each ring in the water bath, then lay each side in the sesame seed pan. (Tip: Use only one hand to touch the water bath, and the other to touch the sesame seeds, or your water bath will get seedy real fast.) 9. Lay the 8 rings on a baking sheet lined with parchment, and leave them to rise for about 40 minutes. Preheat the oven to 450º. 10. Sprinkle cold water on the rings and place on the middle rack to bake for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown. (Mine took about 20 minutes.) Serve warm and enjoy!
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bite | fall 2018
BY SARAH LAUREN PEABODY PHOTOS BY ALDEN HERERRA
MANGO ROYALE What do you get when you cross 333 years of Spanish colonisation and 48 years of US imperialism? The answer is the most classic Filipino dish for every event. From weddings to simple family gatherings, this Filipino classic can be enjoyed as a cool, creamy dish or as a refreshing ice cream cake– it all depends on the time spent in the freezer. End this year with some vibrant tropical flavours to pretend you’re still enjoying your summer! The tart mangos here contrast beautifully with the cream while the crumble of the graham crackers ties it all together. 30 minutes, discluding freezing makes 1 cake prep
GET 3/4 cups unsalted butter, melted 10 oz graham crackers (2 sleeves) 2 cups whipping cream (heaviness dependent on preference) 4 soft mangoes 1 cup pureed mango or mango jam
DO 1. Set the oven to 350 degrees. 2. Crush up graham crackers in your preferred method (it can be with hands or in a food processor.) Once they are crushed to your liking, place in a baking tray and bake the crackers until they become a toasted brown. This will take around 5 minutes to do. 3. Melt the unsalted butter in a pan, slowly mixing it until it becomes a warm brown colour. 4. In a large bowl, mix the browned butter and toasted crumbs together until they are fully incorporated. The crumbs need to be able to hold a shape when squished together. If not, add a little more butter until this is possible. 5. Cut up the mangos into three slices to remove the centre. Then cut the two mango slices into cubes and set them in a bowl. 6. Add 1⁄2 a cup of mango puree or jam into
the bowl of cut up mangos to soften them up further and to make them less tart. 7. Take around 2⁄3 of the crumbs mixture and press it down firmly into the base of the cake pan. This is will act as the base of the cake and needs to be firm. 8. Cover the base layer with 1 cup of whipping cream and then cover that cream layer with 1⁄2 cup of mango jam, spreading both evenly. 9. Next, sprinkle the rest of the crumbs mixture on top of the layers. There’s no need to pack these crumbs tightly together. 10. Repeat step 8 with the rest of the whipped cream and then place the chopped mangos and jam mixture at the very top. 11. Store the cake in the fridge for a creamier texture or in the freezer for a more solid, ice cream-like consistency. Let cake set for at least 4 hours before serving. recipes
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BY ANALIESE BATCHELOR PHOTOS BY ANDY ZHAO
FRESH BEET SALAD This salad adds a colorful accompaniment to your autumn table, and can also be enjoyed alone as a hearty vegetarian course. Warm, savory disks of nutty, crispy goat cheese elevate a simple array of ingredients, and make this green salad comforting even as the weather transitions into cooler months. The fattiness of the goat cheese is complemented by the balsamic vinaigrette and bright bursts of mandarin citrus. This recipe is an easy and quick way to enjoy antioxidant-rich beets, at a time of year when they are fresh and abundant, and provides a delicious alternative to their roasted texture. If you are a new initiate to enjoying slices of raw beets in your salads, but you don’t have time to roast your own and prefer not to buy pre-packaged roasted beets, try finely grating them into your salad, or slipping small pieces of chopped beet inside the goat cheese disks before they are pan-fried. prep
5 minutes
cook
3 minutes
makes
4 servings
GET
DO
Salad 3 large red beets 4 oz log of goat cheese (keep refrigerated)
1. De-stem, and thoroughly wash beets. Wash spinach and arugula leaf mix. Strain juice from can of mandarin oranges; discard juice. Peel and slice beets into thin rounds, grating a quarter beet for garnish if desired. 2. Pour ½ cup olive oil, and 1 cup blanched almond flour into two bowls. 3. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a small frying pan. While the oil is warming, remove goat cheese log from fridge, and cut into 6 disks. Dip disks first into the bowl of olive oil, and then into the bowl of almond flour, coating each evenly with flour. When the oil starts sizzling, reduce heat, and gently place disks into the pan. Flip and cook disks until a golden-brown crust has formed on both sides. 4. In a large bowl, toss together the leaves, ½ can mandarin oranges, and beet rounds. 5. To prepare the vinaigrette, whisk the remaining ½ can of oranges with ½ tbsp. honey, 2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar, 4 tbsp. olive oil, 1/8 tsp ground ginger, 1/8 tsp black pepper, and ¼ tsp fine sea salt. 6. Serve tossed salad with the grated beets, crispy goat cheese disks, and vinaigrette.
1/2 cup olive oil 1 cup blanched almond flour 6 cups fresh spinach and arugula mix 1/2 2 4 1/8 1/8 1/4 11
Vinaigrette tbsp honey tbsp balsamic vinegar tbsp olive oil tsp ground ginger tsp black pepper tsp fine sea salt oz can of mandarin oranges
Adapted from The Vignette: Sprouse Walker, Trisha. “An Edgar Allan Poe Gothic Feast.” The Vignette (blog), October 30, 2013. http://www.thevignetteblog.com/2013/10/30/an-edgar-allan-poe-gothic-feast/.
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bite | fall 2018
BY MOYO ABIONA PHOTOS BY ANDY ZHAO
MARY SHELLEY’S
KALE & EGG TARTINE
prep 5 minutes cook 15 minutes makes 4 servings
GET 4 slices of 1-inch thick crusty bread (I used a baguette) 1 garlic clove 6 tbsp olive oil, divided 1/2 small yellow onion, diced 1 cup chicken broth 1 bunch kale, center ribs removed, leaves torn into bite-size pieces 1/2 tsp salt 4 eggs salt and pepper, to taste 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar parmesan cheese shavings, for garnish
2018 marks the 200th anniversary of the publication of Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein. In honor of the brilliant and genre-defining writer, I replicated this recipe of one of her favorite meals, which offers us a glimpse into Shelley’s life. Favorite foods are the window to the soul, after all. Wrap yourself up in your fluffiest blanket, grab a copy of Frankenstein, and enjoy Mary’s go-to comfort food.
DO 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place bread slices on a baking sheet and toast 2 minutes; flip slices over and toast 2 minutes more. Cut garlic clove in half and rub cut side on all surfaces of the bread. 2. Add 4 tablespoons oil to a large pot (with a lid) over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and starting to brown. Add broth, kale and salt, cover, and cook 3 minutes. Remove cover and cook until kale is tender and water has mostly evaporated, about 4 minutes more. 3. Meanwhile, add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to a nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat. Crack eggs into pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook until whites are just set, about 2 minutes; flip and cook 10 seconds more. 4. Place bread on a serving plate, divide kale over the 4 slices, and top each with an egg. Drizzle vinegar over eggs, top with parmesan, and serve. recipes
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Sushi-grade. What the hell does that mean? Basically, it is salmon that has been flash-frozen on the boat. This preserves quality and texture while also killing parasites. If you cannot access this, freeze the salmon yourself for a few days, or buy frozen salmon and thaw it. 2 You can really whack whatever spices you think would go well with salmon in here—I am partial to dill, and the caraway and coriander make a nice mix, but it really is up to you. 1
26 bite | fall 2018
BY ED SCHMELTZER PHOTOS BY BRANDON ZANG
2-3 days makes 10 servings prep
GET 2 tbsp kosher salt, plus more for washing salmon. 1 1-lb skin-on, sushi-grade1 salmon fillet, bones removed. ½ tsp. caraway2 seeds ½ tsp. coriander2 seeds ½ tbsp. sugar ¼ tsp. ground black pepper 1 large bunch dill
CURING SALMON
I am not going to lie to you, dear reader. I have a problem. A problem with salmon. I goddamn love the stuff. Which is a problem for me, given that I am a) a student and, following from this, b) tight on cash. Luckily, however, there is a solution—one that is mildly less expensive and keeps for a few days, so you get more bang for your buck. What is this solution? It’s gravlax. Originally created by what I can only assume were creatively insane fishermen in Scandinavia in the Middle Ages, gravlax is salmon coated in salt, sugar and dill and left to ferment for roughly 24 hours. This process wicks some of the moisture away from the fish and allows it to remain fresh for longer while also giving it a more interesting flavor profile. Now that the history lesson is over, here’s how you too can cure your very own gravlax! You can use it as an hors d’oeuvre for parties, for breakfast on a bagel with cream cheese, or just to eat straight out of the fridge. It’s a beautiful balance between sweet and salty, it’s classy and elegant, and, most importantly (for me at least), it lets me pretend that I live in Scandinavia.
DO 1. Fill a large bowl with heavily salted water (so it tastes like the sea). Submerge salmon for 10 minutes. 2. If you are not using pre-ground seeds, grind the coriander and caraway after toasting them. 3. In a small bowl, stir the caraway, coriander, sugar, salt and pepper until combined. 4. Remove that salmon from the bath, pat dry with paper towels, and massage the entire piece of salmon with the salt mixture. 5. Arrange half of the dill in the bottom of a baking tray. Place the salmon on the dill, then cover the salmon with the remaining dill. Cover with plastic, then top with a weight. (I used a calculus textbook—as long as the pressure is relatively equal, go nuts.) 6. Refrigerate for one day, unpack, flip salmon, repack with dill, then refrigerate again for another day. (Note: longer cure times result in firmer and saltier fish, if you’re into that.) 7. Unpack the salmon, scrape off the dill, cut into thin slices on a bias (or however, really) and enjoy. Gravlax, wrapped in plastic, will last around 5 days in the fridge. recipes
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