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dear foo d ie s & fr i en d s We are so excited to share with you the Fall 2017 issue of Bite Magazine! As the temperature drops and it becomes sweater weather, we wanted to dedicate this issue to the cozy, warm feeling that autumn evokes in all of us. As in every issue of Bite, we are constantly looking for new eats and new discoveries, while appreciating the community that brings us together and recognizing the origins of the food we consume. Within the pages of this issue, you’ll find that we’ve created recipes that are sumptuous, seasonally appropriate but delicious yearlong — from apple butternut squash bruschetta (p. 22) to a unique take on a Spanish caldo that uses ramen and strong spices (p. 20). We explore more of the community that surrounds us, eating our way through Back of the Yards (p. 8) and spending time at Second Fridays in Pilsen (p. 11). In our reviews, we look to foods that will bring us maximum warmth, like Bosnian coffee at Coffee Slasticarna Drina (p. 7) as well as chili at Lindy’s Chili & Gertie’s Ice Cream (p. 6). As you read through these pages, we hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed creating it!
the editors 1
bite | spring 2017 BITE | WINTER 2017
table of contents 3 kitsune 4 yassa 5 mfk 6 lindy’s chili + gertie’s ice cream 7 coffee slasticarna drina 8 back of the yards 11 pilsen: second fridays 13 a multicultural thanksgiving 15 3 simple pastas 17 maillard reaction 18 enchiladas verdes 19 matcha crepe cake 20 ramen “caldo” with beef brisket 21 JERK CHICKEN WITH MANGO COLESLAW 22 apple + butternut squash bruschetta Editor-in-Chief Karen sung Managing editor Paige Resnick creative director KATHRYN YIN COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR MELANIE WANG PROGRAMMING DIRECTOR FIONA GASAWAY designers BONNIE HU, CHRISTIE DU, GRACE BRIDGES, JIHANA MENDU, KAREN XU, NORA LIN, SUHASNI SINGH, YARRA ELMASRY, YUNA SONG, YOLANDA YU writers ALAN YANG, alyce oh, amanda wilson, analiese batchelor, ANDY HUFf, DAPHNE XU, ELI HARTER, ISAAC TANNENBAUM, JOSEPH DONAHUE, KATiE MCPOLIN, MOYO ABIONA, nick ogilvie, NIKITA COUTINHO, OLIVIA XIONG, PARKER MEE, RACHEL WEINBREN, wendy zheng photographers ahona mukherjee, alden herrera, ANDY ZHAO, ANGELA FUNG, FIONA GASAWAY, GABBY LUU, GIOVANNA DECASTRO, grace peguese, JENNY KIM, julia rose camus, karen xu, kathryn yin, MARIA XU, michelle zhou, nora bradford, sarah larson, YARRA ELMASRY
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REVIEW:
kitsune by// amanda wilson photos // Julia rose camus
neighborhood
North Center pRICES
$$$
dISHES TO TRY
Chawanmushi Oyster
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Iliana Regan, the mastermind chef behind the foraged-ingredients-centered prix fixe dining experiences at Elizabeth, makes the same delicate flavors accessible to the general public with her newest restaurant, Kitsune. Located in North Center, a hip upand-coming neighborhood just a few years behind Logan Square and Wicker Park, Kitsune is Regan’s contribution to Chicago’s Japanese food scene. The restaurant has been open since January, and reservations are difficult to secure; parties over four are not accepted during peak hours, and the restaurant was packed by 6:00pm when I dined on a Sunday night. Kitsune is the Japanese word for fox, and true to its name, foxes are ubiquitous in the restaurant’s decorations. A neon fox sign hangs in the window, anime caricatures of foxes line the walls, and the butter served with wild rice bread has been meticulously sculpted into a fox. The property is extremely modest without feeling cramped; the kitchen sits unhidden in a corner of the restaurant, leaving only 25 seats for diners, including the four stools at the bar. Kitsune boasts Japanese cuisine with a Midwestern flair. The most ambitious example of this culinary intersection is featured in the vegetable hot pot: Midwestern “tofu”. Made of buttermilk and cream rather than soybeans, it has a slightly cheese-like flavor and sits in a bitter lemon broth with mushrooms and greens. The oyster I ate at Kitsune was the best I’ve ever tasted. Briny and acidic without tasting overly-fishy, rice wine vinegar adds the slightest Asian character to create a
delicate and rich snack. The chawanmushi is another standout. Topped with artfullyshaved radishes, this savory egg custard is packed with Jonah crab, resulting in a luxurious dish exquisite in taste, texture, and appearance. A fudgy egg yolk is a favorite tool of Regan’s – it shows up as an umami sauce for a micro-shaved aged ribeye, one of many garnishes on two bowls of ramen, and as a pickled accompaniment to the aforementioned wild rice bread. This earthy bread contains whole grains of wild rice, surprisingly airy and springy despite the dense kernels. The traditional tonkatsu has tender and succulent pork belly and homemade noodles, slightly thicker and flatter than normal, finished with not-toospicy chili paste and oil. The yuzu ramen is distinctly tart from the incorporation of the yuzu (a sour citrus fruit) and fishy from the addition of pulverized seaweed and a round cake of macerated trout, with thin rice noodles and an abundance of beech and enoki mushrooms. Desserts are similarly flavorful and sophisticated. The granita is a parfait of candied sweet potatoes, tangy yogurt, and satsuma (a cousin of the mandarin orange) shaved ice which brings a perfectly refreshing conclusion to a meal. If Kitsune’s menu does not intrigue you, this might not be the restaurant for you – this fare is not for the faint of heart. Kitsune unapologetically offers the bold fusion of classic Japanese and sustainable Midwestern cuisine, a combination which leaves diners with an unforgettable experience.
REVIEW:
Yassa
by // nikita coutinho photos // nora bradford
It was mildly overcast as we made our way north towards Bronzeville. The multiple times we stopped to ask directions we were met with eager recognition and fond smiles, an early indication that Yassa was highly regarded in the area. A burst of bright colour and high energy in an otherwise drab area, Yassa’s interiors were well-lit and unmistakably homey. We ordered a plate of Nem, Yassa Lamb and Yassa Chicken, with a baobab drink to accompany. The wait for the food was painless despite our hunger– the rhythmic drum beats, colossal wall paintings, and intricate statues were aptly captivating. Our beverage arrived first, a beige drink in a plastic cup that was reminiscent of a protein shake. Although its profile was difficult to pinpoint, it had a milky texture with tart edge. A glance around made us aware of the immense popularity of a neon green drink, something we would definitely try on our next visit. Our appetizer, a plate of Nem, was next to arrive. We expected standard egg rolls, but our batch of freshly fried Nem was a delightful mélange of diced lamb, chicken and shrimp, all atop a bed of lettuce. Perfectly sized for finger food, the rolls were satisfying and would make for a perfect snack on a rainy day. Our lamb and chicken mains, namesakes of the restaurant, followed.
These signatures dishes provided generous portions of meat and wholesome sides. The lamb was tender, well-seasoned and clearly wellmarinated. It was dressed in fried onions and had a distinctly peppery taste. The chicken arrived, not as a single piece, but as a glorious mound of sliced chunks, and though similarly seasoned to the lamb, was preferable to it. Our collective sides of jollof rice, couscous, vermicelli, and plantains, were good,, but paled in comparison to the meat. If we were to visit again we would probably skip the couscous and vermicelli in favor of the jollof and plantains. On the whole, the staff at Yassa was extremely courteous, very friendly and took out time to answer our culinary questions. We appreciated being able to mix-and-match the sides for our mains as it allowed us to sample a greater variety of fare. The only thing we found lacking was the presence of a definitive crowd of diners, but this may have been because of the timing of our visit. “Bronzeville Rising” was the headline of a newspaper clipping that adorned the wall inside of Yassa. Our delightful meal was a testament to Yassa’s positive influence on the neighborhood and the greater Chicago food scene.
neighborhood
Bronzeville pRICES
$ dISHES TO TRY
Yassa Nem reviews
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REVIEW:
MFK by// Joseph Donahue photos // Michelle Zhou
Neighborhood
Lincoln Park PRICES
$$
DISHES TO TRY
Suzuki Ceviche Pei Mussels
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It’s easy to unknowingly stumble past mfk, a small and inventive seafood restaurant in Lake View marked with only a muted yellow sign and a cluster of tables on the sidewalk. Nearby, a small doorway leads to a couple of steps down into the sole dining area. A recent visit for lunch revealed that this simplistic and light attitude translated to the dishes, made with care but without useless decoration. This is not a restaurant for diners expecting a show, but for those wanting depth of flavor and knowledge. Dishes on the menu at mfk are divided into three categories dependent on their size, which correlates roughly with the time it takes to prepare a dish. The suzuki ceviche is placed in the smallest section of the menu, but the almost-black tostadas are layered with smooth guacamole and piled high with pale pink fish drenched in the lime juice. The flaky fish is stunningly cold and refreshing, and the tostada as a whole is a magnificent sum of salty and sour flavors with the fattiness of the fish and creaminess of the guacamole. The plates at mfk are glazed light brown with darker traces around the edges, and are small enough to fit plenty on a table to share tapas-style. Utensils may be slightly mismatched or tarnished, and the napkins are colorfully striped seersucker, all contributing to a decidedly nonsnobbish atmosphere where the focus is on the food. Service staff are kind and eager to explain the menu, and
are extremely knowledgeable about ingredients and techniques. At mfk, a couple dishes may arrive in quick succession, quickly crowding the table with those tiny brown plates. Each plate has a little funky twist; even the red powder around the crunchy prawn heads was inspired by nachoflavored Doritos. “The lower end of low-brow,” our waiter says, but it’s worth sacrificing pride for the delicious crunch of these shrimp popsicles. Dip the exposed end in the aioli, use your teeth to get the sauce-coated meat out, and you might get lucky with a couple of lightly fried legs in the mix! This dish stood out in particular: shrimp heads normally go to waste, but the mfk kitchen transforms them, blending tastes and textures to use the whole shrimp. The anchovies in olive oil and mussels arrive: the anchovies are fatty, and spread like umami butter across a toasted slice of bread. The broth of the mussels is red-brown, with apple and sage flavors. They are steamed to perfection and served with bread to soak up that leftover broth. The final dish, a ‘basque cake’ made with almond flour, rum, and plenty of butter, is served warm. The slice of cake is crumbly like coffee cake and very dense, packed with almond flavor. It looks unremarkable and relies on taste alone, but this seems to be what drives mfk, representing the experience of an entire meal where dish after dish quietly says: who needs frills when you could have flavor?
REVIEW:
lindy’s chili +gertie’s ice cream by// Katie mcpolin photos // kathryn yin
At 10:15 on a Monday morning, we are bound for Lindy’s Chili and Gertie’s Ice Cream. Lindy’s has been a standby on the southwest side since 1924. They open early and close late, even later on nights when the Bears play. Lindy’s has an honest white facade, and despite a recent remodel, it boasts no shiny glass paneling, no rooftop beer garden. In classic Chicago fashion, it’s clear that we are in for a no-frills, no-nonsense meal. A dog walker across the street looks on, bemused, as we hunt for an entrance. We lap the building and finally find our way in, where a little wooden sign welcomes us. Lindy’s dining area is a kitschy, wellloved room, with a small bar and a collage of wooden signs and glowing placards on every wall. Black and white photos of the original counter harken back to the early days of “Chicago’s Oldest Chili Parlor”. Our photographer, Kathryn, is reminded of the diners her family frequented on their road trip down Route 66. We order coffees and settle in, emotionally preparing for our breakfast of champions. Much to our surprise, the room is filling up - a mother and her young son headed to school, suits on an early lunch break, construction workers from down the block all perch on a bench to wait for their takeout. Some sit across from us on the wall, ogling at Kathryn’s camera work as she tests different tables for lighting. We order a smorgasbord of greasy,
starchy delights: onion rings, jalapeño poppers, tamales, and sticky loaded fries, as well as a crock of chili to share. Lindy’s also has a wide selection beyond appetizers - burgers, sausages, sandwiches. These were honestly the best onion rings I have ever had, and though I felt a little sick after inhaling 4 or 5 jalapeño poppers, I have no regrets. By the time we polish off our fried feast and stacked our plates, the chili is ready. Chili is an ideal Chicago food - it’s hot, filling, and you can put it on anything. Lindy’s namesake chili is exactly what you want it to be: thick without being sticky, heavy enough to comfort you on the walk home in the wind and snow, and, most importantly, generously portioned. We end up taking most of it home (it gets better as you heat it up the next day). Gertie’s Ice Cream is well-known for elaborate sundaes and ice cream floats, and Kathryn orders a strawberry soda with vanilla ice cream. I decide on a green river phosphate, which is like a regular soda, but sour. (I think it tastes like carbonated Gatorade.) The strawberry ice cream soda is phenomenal -- sweet and rich, with massive scoops of soft ice cream melting down the sides of her frosty glass. Loaded up with takeout that will feed us for the next week, lunchtime is only starting when we head out. I almost can’t wait for winter - I will definitely be back for a crock of chili and a plate of onion rings, watching the snow fall on McKinley Park.
neighborhood
McKinley Park pRICES
$
dISHES TO TRY
Loaded Fries Strawberry Ice Cream Soda
reviews
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REVIEW:
Coffee Slasticarna Drina by// Wendy zheng photos //Andy zhao
neighborhood
Lincoln Park pRICES
$
dISHES TO TRY
Cheese Burek
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Aptly located in The Family Plaza in Lincoln Square, Coffee Slasticarna Drina, a small family-run Bosnian cafe, evokes the ambiance and comfort of a grandmother’s home. The combination of the red walls filled with paintings of the Bosnian countryside, the folk music echoing out of the speakers, and the conversation between the head of the house, Neir, and his mother in the kitchen creates a warm and inviting atmosphere, further reiterated through the restaurant’s hearty fare and considerate service. We arrived mid morning on a rainy day, immediately requesting two orders of bosanska kafa, or Bosnian coffee, as a much needed pickmeup. The coffee was served in dzezvas, gorgeous copper plated pots with long extended handles for trouble-free pouring. While very similar to Turkish coffee, this rendition had a thicker layer of foam and was extremely dark and aromatic, with a stout, rich, and powerfully bitter flavor. Although the coffee was exceptional and fitting for this dreary day, my favorite beverage was surprisingly a glass of their homemade soured milk. The fermented drink had an unapologetic tartness and smooth mouthfeel, providing a much needed sharp contrast to the stickily sweet desserts and decadent mains. However, the star was without a doubt the cheese burek, a baked-to-order spiral shaped phyllo pastry, generously stuffed with a mixture of feta, cottage cheese,
and egg. The outer layered crust was unbelievably crisp and flaky, while the filling was sinfully creamy and faintly sweet, making it a treat to be remembered We followed the burek by splitting a monstrous platter of grilled meats, consisting of various beef sausages, a grilled chicken breast, a hamburger patty, and a pork kabob. The entire plate, piled high with the salty delights, only cost fifteen dollars. I preferred the cevapi, a juicy smoky and tender sausage further highlighted by the accompanying roasted red pepper sauce, housemade fluffy pita, and fresh bite of tomato. Although the rest of the meats were seasoned well and filled with a charcoal aroma, I found them to be a little overdone and greasy, slightly sacrificing quality for quantity. By the time we finished lunch, we were stuffed; however, Neir, a premiere host, offered us not one, but four desserts to try for free: baklava, torta (a three tier walnut cream cake), boem (a layered chocolate creme cake), and hurmasica (a syrup soaked coconut cookie). The baklava stood out the most, perfectly moist and sweet with a fragrant walnut flavor. Coffee Slasticarna Drina is a no frills cafe serving up unique delicious fare at generous portions for an extremely low price point. Come for the burek, and you’ll find yourself becoming a regular for their terrific service, down to earth attitude, and mouthwatering food.
Back the
of
Yards
Exploring the Backyard How do you encapsulate a neighborhood in an article? One cannot even capture the intricacies of one restaurant compared to the diverse selections of tastes and traditions in an entire Chicago community. It is impossible to truly address this neighborhood in all its complexities without bringing up the elephant in the news. A google search of the Back of the Yards is not a game of subtlety; reports of sexual assault and shootings are frequent with little positive news as a counterpart. However, the negative light cast on this incredibly old and historic neighborhood has led to the self-abandonment and the gentrification of its population. We had quite the task at hand; having to cut through the bias against the Back of the Yards while also remaining completely biased in our exploits of its food. Where better to start such a poignant conversation on community and delicacies than at a coffeehouse?
Back of the Yards Coffee Co. The coffee shop itself was removed and hidden from the
by Eli Harter • photos by Grace Peguese
main street, offering an immediate haven from the city sights and sounds. The smells were the first to hit; wafts of fresh ground coffee, and tendrils of crushed herbs and cinnamon. I am not an avid coffee drinker, but the chai latte was to die for. It truly was a concoction with the best qualities of both a latte and spiced apple cider, with soft hints of chai. While enjoying my beverage, I talked to a few other guests for restaurant suggestions. They stated that they had no knowledge of any good eateries in the area outside of a drive to Pilsen or Bridgeport. Luckily, one of the lovely owners enlightened us. Mayra Hernandez recommended both a hidden taco dwelling in a supermarket and a restaurant of Mexican family fare. She also explained a little bit about her new store, which had been open for only four months. She wanted to be a provider that combated the “toxic gentrification” that plagued the community. The Coffee Company was a community-created haven designed to support the community.
Supermercado La Internacional Finding the supermarket in interest, we wandered through the stacks of snacks and foreign ingredients and drink features
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to the taco bar in the back. The menu had five options and we opted for three: the carne asada, the picadillo, and the barbacoa. Each taco was composed of exactly two ingredients with the optional garnishes. It proved to be a war between flavors, each attempting to rise to the forefront of the palate in an exquisite duel. The corn tortilla was the dark horse, double layered to provide support and texture. The balance between the firmness and stretch of the tortillas is almost indescribable. The meats themselves were all pristine; however, the barbacoa was the standout. Fork tender, the rich braising juices and protein coalesced and melted upon contact with the tongue. It left a smoky aftertaste and a craving for more.
with flavors, placing the crunchy textures of the Sope at the forefront. The tampiqueĂąa retains a surprising amount of tenderness to its steak component, despite being a tad salty. It really was a dinner of textures, as none of the components stood out on their own, but each worked in a comforting harmony, bringing everything together with the tenderness and crunch. The favorite of the meal was the quesadilla, scalding at first and the size of a 16-inch pizza. The base of the quesadilla was spongy, grabbing hold of the melted cheese like a helping hand, impressive in all aspects.
Vista Hermosa
The Back of the Yards was a surprise thrill for the entire company. While the food was the highlight, integrating with the community and seeing the stockyards the neighborhood was named after helped me learn a little more about our complex and diverse city. While the media may paint a specific picture of the Back of the Yards, it is the rising food culture of the area that markets hospitality, traditions, and fantastic fare. Every stop we made brought us in contact with people not only bringing meals to the community, but support and opportunities. It is a message that shines through both the people themselves and the comfort foods they provide.
The tacos were delicious but left us wanting more. Luckily, however, we had Vista Hermosa to attend to. The building was imprinted with elaborate festive murals, and the restaurant itself had the feeling of a dance floor turned social gathering place. The atmosphere was friendly, but gave no hints about the quality of food ahead. The portions were gigantic, and the manager assured us that it was these portions that gave the restaurant its media presence. We ordered a Sope Al Pastor which was bursting
In conclusion
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PILSEN second fridays Since
arriving at the University of Chicago, I have always thought of the neighborhood of Pilsen as existing in a sort of liminal space. Its situation bears some passing resemblance to Wicker Park of the 1990s, but in reality, Pilsen has more in common with western neighbor, La Villita1. There has been a gradual shift in the demographics of the neighborhood, with an influx of white residents throughout its streets, displacing thousands of Hispanic families since 20002. Slowly but surely, Pilsen is gentrifying, and a culture deeply rooted in Mexican origins is at risk of being swept in the coming years.
F
or almost half a decade, I have had the opportunity to acquaint myself with this neighborhood through the lens of Second Fridays. On the second Friday of each month, the Chicago Arts District hosts an evening of public receptions for the galleries of the artists that reside in the area. Most of the artist galleries are centered on Halsted Street, where one can find street-level exhibitions and a renovated factory space, the Fountainhead Lofts, that serves as an arts incubator. From steampunk mannequins to abstract pattern paintings to works concerning race by local African American artists, there is so much artistry to see, some 11
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of which is only available for viewing on that specific date. The artists often accompany their works on display and in studio, happy to be offering insight into their creative processes and styles. It is hard to not be drawn to an opportunity to interact with Chicago art and artists, and for the longest time I have always started the night by eating in the close by area. Every time, I always look to support the neighborhood’s traditional Mexican restaurants. During the winter months, one can warm up with the traditional birria of Jalisco at BirrierĂa Reyes de Ocotlan. Any season, one could stop by for tacos de
lengua or tripas at Taquería Los Comales. Tortillas are made nearby at El Milagro, and look no further than Panadería Del Refugio for traditional conchas. My experience with food during Second Fridays has simultaneously invoked a sense of loss. As I walk down 18th Street after a meal, I can see closed panaderías or new coffee shops that were not there when I was a first year. Back then, there was never a Furious Spoon and Dusek’s had yet to receive its first Michelin star. Bib Gourmand HaiSous was not even an idea and Pilsen Community Books was a small room in the Fountainhead. Some things have stayed the same, but it is evident that not everything has, and not everyone has had the liberty to. The Chicago Arts District has provided a much needed sanctuary for creative individuals in Chicago’s art scene, but Second Fridays is
not without its share of problems. After all, the collective has been active in pushing for the distinction between Pilsen East and Pilsen West, labels that had not traditionally been used to discern sections of the neighborhood. The Arts District has advocated for these labels to create distance between the “unsafe” west partition and the “friendly” east, thus positioning itself in the center of controversy surrounding the gentrification of Pilsen. As a result, it is difficult to not feel complicit while attending. However, cognitive dissonance is certainly intoxicating. While sipping on wine and feeling at peace with a portrait, it is easy to lose the insight that a space is not really one’s own, nor does it really belong to anyone else in the room. The beautiful art and mouth-watering food makes you forget, even for a moment, the divides that exist in the neighborhood.
by Alan Wang photos by Ahona Mukherjee + Karen Xu
CREDITS
1. Little Village/South Lawndale 2. https://www.dnainfo.com/ chicago/20160413/pilsen/pilsen-getswhiter-as-10000-hispanics-familiesmove-out-study-finds 12
A MULTICULTURAL THANKSGIVING
By Analiese Batchelor Photos by Julia Rose Camus
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make small crepes4. In contrast, an AlbanianAmerican may choose to serve their turkey with cheese pies, Albanian salad, and plain yogurt. The recipe for the Thanksgiving dish featured in the photos here, Dudhi kofta curry, is from Raghavan Iyer, an IndianAmerican cookbook author. Iyer’s blended family includes an adopted African-American son and a Caucasian partner5. Like his family, Iyer’s Thanksgiving table represents foods from at least three continents. Dudhi kofta curry consists of zucchini dumplings in a tomato and ginger sauce with a peppery kick. Alongside the curry, Iyer’s family enjoys turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry jelly, collards and black-eyed peas. So whether your Thanksgiving table is laden with turkey or duck, chorizo stuffing or latkes, yams or hams, side dishes from around the world or just from around the corner, we at Bite Magazine would like to wish you all a very happy Thanksgiving. Cheers!
T
he modern American does not have to look far to be immersed in a diverse fusion of nationalities, cultures, and ethnicities. So it is not surprising that the Thanksgiving meal has become a mélange, representing much more than just the traditional foods of that historic dinner, shared by the Pilgrims and Wampanoag in Plymouth, Massachusetts in 16211. What would Thanksgiving look like without wildfowl, stuffing, corn, and pumpkin, you ask? Well, many Americans annually enjoy Korean spicy kimchee, Chinese roast duck, Mexican tamales, Italian lasagna, Jewish potato kugel, and Puerto Rican rice and beans with savory pork instead of turkey… the list is endless2! On Thanksgiving Day, the United States will be sizzling with aromas from the multitude of culinary traditions its citizens enjoy. The widespread availability of global ingredients has allowed different cultures to preserve traditional recipes for day-to-day use, as well as for special occasions. In fact, a variety of “traditional” Thanksgiving meals from around the world will be served at restaurants in large cities throughout the United States, including Chicago. An Ethiopian restaurant, Tesfa, will serve a traditional dish, doro wot, at Thanksgiving, while a wander through the Hispanic neighborhood of Pilsen could bring delight in the form of pasteles or flan. If you decide to forgo the hours of slaving over a hot stove, opt for a traditional mid-morning Chinese specialty, and go to Cai restaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown for dim sum. At Devon
Avenue, in the Chicago metropolitan area, you will be able to enjoy a masala dosai with carrot halwa for dessert at the Udupi Palace Restaurant. Some more recent immigrant families may prefer to celebrate Thanksgiving with a traditional American meal, wanting their American born children to know and experience the same traditions as their peers, while other immigrants will combine parts of the traditional meal with diverse cultural delicacies3. A Korean-American Thanksgiving table may hold a roast turkey alongside an array of Korean foods, typically eaten to celebrate the New Year, like gu jeol pan; a tray of nine different fillings used to
1. Gambino, Megan. “What Was on the Menu at the First Thanksgiving?” Smithsonian. Accessed October 16, 2017. http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/what-was-on-themenu-at-the-first-thanksgiving-511554/. 2. “Thanksgiving Recipes Across the United States.” The New York Times, November 18, 2014, sec. Food. https://www. nytimes.com/interactive/2014/11/18/dining/thanksgivingrecipes-across-the-united-states.html. 3. SB Anderson. “For Immigrants, Cultural Values Infuse the Food at Thanksgiving.” Medill Reports Chicago (blog), November 26, 2015. http://news.medill.northwestern.edu/ chicago/for-immigrants-cultural-values-infuse-the-food-atthanksgiving/. 4. Lee, Chang-rae. “Magical Dinners in America.” The New Yorker, November 15, 2010. https://www.newyorker.com/ magazine/2010/11/22/magical-dinners. 5. DeSantis, Alicia. “The American Thanksgiving.” The New York Times, November 15, 2016, sec. Food. https://www. nytimes.com/interactive/2016/11/16/dining/thanksgivingdinner-in-america.html.
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3
Simple Pastas in Ingredients or Less
5
by Nick Ogilvie photos by Maria Xu
A new school year always brings changes, and for many people this means moving off campus and having their own place for the first time. Liberated from the school’s meal plan, many people have to quickly come to terms with cooking for themselves on a regular basis. Inevitably, the classic college staple of pasta quickly comes to dominate every meal, and with it a variety of mediocre store-bought sauces. In the spirit of good, simple, home-made food, here are three simple pasta recipes that can all be made with five ingredients or less and won’t take up your precious study time; recipes that will elevate your cooking, impress all of your friends, and far exceed anything that comes out of a refrigerated can. Remember, there are no perfect measurements for sauces like these- cook with your ingredients by look and taste.
Pasta Aglio e Olio What is it? Neapolitan style pasta, tossed in olive oil and sauteéd garlic, finished with parsley and dried red chili, and dressed with lemon juice. Ingredients • Garlic • Fresh parsley • Dried chilli flakes • Lemon
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Preparation • Remove a few garlic cloves; peel; crush between cutting board and flat side of knife to release oil; mince • Pluck off a few parsley leaves; dice finely • Halve the lemon and squeeze out the juice into a small bowl • Cook the pasta in boiling water until desired doneness; drain excess water off in a sieve • As the pasta is cooking, lightly sauteé the garlic in a good depth of olive oil; season with salt and pepper • Roll the pasta in the olive oil and garlic (making sure to turn down to low heat to avoid frying the pasta); plate • Add the diced parsley, chili flakes, and lemon juice on top to finish
Pasta Romano What is it? Roman style pasta, rolled in melted butter and finished with freshly ground pepper and grated cheese. Ingredients • Butter • Freshly ground pepper • Italian cheese (Parmesan or Pecorino work best) Preparation • Grate the cheese • Grind out the fresh pepper • Cook the pasta in boiling water until desired doneness; drain excess water off in a sieve • As pasta is cooking, melt butter in a pan (making sure not to overheat and re-solidify the butter) • Roll the pasta in the melted butter; plate • Add freshly ground pepper and cheese on top as desired
Pasta Puttanesca What is it? Neapolitan-style pasta, cooked in a tomato based sauce Ingredients • Plain tomato sauce (crushed or diced tomatoes work best) • Garlic • Onion • Freshly ground pepper • Fresh parsley Preparation • Remove a few garlic cloves; peel; crush between cutting board and flat side of knife to release oil; mince • Finely dice the onion into small chunks • Remove the stem and seeds from the pepper and cut into vertical chunks. Julienne the chunks (cut into batons) • Cook the pasta in boiling water until desired doneness; drain excess water off in a sieve • As pasta is cooking, sauteé the onions, garlic, and peppers in a pan; once slightly softened, add tomato sauce to the mix (adding boiling water as needed to achieve desired consistency); season with salt and pepper; keep warm • Plate pasta, and add puttanesca sauce on top as desired • Finish with some parsley features
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f you have ever prepared a meal on a first date and have then experienced a second, chances are you have the Maillard reaction to thank. Never mind what your mother calls your “witty charm,” the Maillard reaction’s ability to completely transform and elevate raw ingredients into delicious meals reigns supreme. The alluring scents of late-night Insomnia cookies and early-morning toasted granola, the robust tastes of dark beer and roasted coffee, all employ the Maillard reaction to achieve their respective flavors. The reaction is largely responsible for producing the characteristically rich, meaty, nutty, toasty, and earthy flavors. It’s the reason why the thought of perfectly seared steak or freshly baked challah bread makes you salivate in the middle of your econ lecture. So what is this miraculous reaction? Contrary to what its name suggests, the Maillard reaction is not just one reaction; rather, it is an intricate network of various reaction pathways that occur when a reducing sugar and an amino acid are heated together. These reaction pathways produce molecules that function in billions of complex forms and generate hundreds of new molecules, each one with distinguishable associated aromas, flavors, and colors. Two key factors control the rate of the Maillard reaction: moisture and temperature. High-temperature cooking speeds up the Maillard reaction because heat reduces the food’s moisture content and contributes to the rate of the reaction itself as the molecules have greater kinetic energy. As food dries, heat has a greater effect on the temperature of the foodstuffs, and consequently, the temperature of the foodstuff increases more rapidly. This is why dry-aging or simply blotting out the surface moisture on a steak before searing will yield
a more flavorful piece of meat. The Maillard reaction is supplanted by pyrolysis reactions (burning) that produce black carbon and acrid flavors if the reaction exceeds the optimal temperature range of 140°C (284°F) to 170°C (340°F). These reactions are evident in the charred edges of grilled steak. The reaction, however, may take place at a wider range of temperatures depending on other factors, including pressure. At atmospheric pressure, high-heat cooking techniques are required to dry out the food and sufficiently increase the temperature of the product. Water itself does not impedes this reaction, but rather the low boiling point of the water. At higher pressure, however, the boiling point is raised and the food’s temperature can climb above the usual boiling point. The sealed environment of a pressure cooker, for example, would thus allow for the Maillard reaction to occur at a higher rate. Added sugars also help increase the rate of reaction. Brining, a process that hydrates muscle tissue cells in meat, is commonly used to produce more flavorful dishes. The basic recipe for a brine includes water, salt, and sugar. The added sugar in the brine helps prevent sugars in the meat from leaching out, which would hinder the Maillard reaction. For example, Peking duck, a traditional Chinese dish, is typically submerged in a malt sugar solution before roasting to achieve its classic deep mahogany color and rich flavor. So next time you find yourself splurging on a steak dinner downtown, preparing a quick and flavorful chili in your pressure cooker, or eating any delicious meal in general, give a shout out the Maillard reaction.
the maillard REACTION BY OLIVIA xiong PHOTO BY ALDEN HERRERA
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bite | spring 2017
BY ANDY HUFF PHOTOS BY GABBY LUU
get: For the Chicken: • 1 pound of boneless skinless chicken breast • Half an onion, chopped • 1-2 sliced jalapenos • Juice of two limes • Salt • Pepper • Cilantro • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 tsp cayenne For the Tomatillo Sauce: • 8 tomatillos • 4-6 jalapenos • 1 onion, chopped into eighths
• 1 head of garlic • Lime juice to taste • Cilantro to taste • Salt and pepper • Dash of cumin Other Ingredients: • 10-12 corn tortillas Serves: 4. makes 12 enchiladas Preparation Time: 30 minutes Cook Time: 40-50 minutes
ENCHILADAS VERDEs Welcome to Texas y’all. Tex-Mex is a right of passage and a religion as much as it is a cuisine. Enchiladas verdes are tangy, spicy, and a bit sweet, a classic that you can find at any Mexican joint in the state. This dish typically serves 4, but I find that it will feed 2 hungry Texans just fine.
Personally, I like to pair the dish with limeade, chips, salsa, and good friends. I celebrate Christmas, welcome a new neighbor, or greet friends coming home from out of state with this staple. When you’re over and you eat enchiladas, you’re family; it’s the Texan way.
do: For the Chicken: 1. Begin beforehand by marinating the chicken.Place the chicken in a ziplock bag. Add the olive oil and lime juice. Then chop the onion and slice the jalapenos. Add to the bag. Next, add the cayenne, salt and pepper. Allow to marinate for at least three hours, preferably overnight 2. Saute or grill, then manually tear to shreds. For the Salsa: 1. Remove the husks and wash the tomatillos. Chop the onions into eighths. Remove the. stems from the jalapenos. Broil the onion,
jalapeno, and tomatillo for 15 minutes, or until the onion is visibly caramelized and bubbling. 2. Blend the tomatillo, onion, and garlic. Add the jalapenos and blend. Because jalapenos vary widely in spice and each person has a different spice tolerance, add them one by one, until the spice first your taste. Add a pinch of salt and pepper. Add cilantro, cumin and lime to taste. To Build the Enchilada 1. Dip the tortillas in the salsa to make them more pliable. Fill the tortilla with chicken, roll tightly. Place the tortillas into a deep glass pan. Bake at 425 degrees for 25 minutes. Serve.
Recipes
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MATCHA CREPE CAKE BY RACHEL WEINBREN PHOTOS BY FIONA GASAWAY
get: For the whipped cream: • 1 cup heavy whipping cream • 2 tbsp granulated sugar • 1/2 tbsp rum • 1 tsp vanilla extract To garnish: • Chocolate, melted, shredded or finely chopped • Matcha Powder
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For the crepes: • 3 eggs • 1 1/2 cups whole milk • 2 1/2 tbsp sugar • 2 tbsp butter, melted • 1 cup flour • 2 1/2 tbsp matcha powder • 1 tsp baking powder Serves: makes 1 cake Preparation Time: 25 minutes Cook Time: 2.5 hours
Step aside, matcha latte! There is another matcha monster in town; she’s over twenty layers tall, sweet, creamy, and wonderfully green. Say hello to the matcha crepe cake! This cake is the perfect excuse to make dessert for breakfast; the matcha adds antioxidants and a metabolism boost, while the whipped cream adds the right amount of sweetness. If you’re not a sweetsfor-breakfast type person, drench the cake
in chocolate and add an extra dollop of the rum whipped cream on top for a perfect post-dinner dessert or even a birthday party treat. This cake is the perfect rainyday baking treat that will make the gloom disappear with the first bite. Get your cameras ready for the first cut; the layers make it the most Instagram-able cake of the season. Get your crepe on and try out different sizes, fillings, and toppings!
do: 1. Mix the eggs, milk, butter and sugar together and then add in the flour, matcha powder, and baking powder. Use a whisk to make sure as many clumps as possible are separated. Stick the batter in the fridge for at least 15 minutes; you can prepare the whipped cream while it sits. 2. For the whipped cream, put the heavy whipping cream in a bowl with the sugar, rum and vanilla extract before using a hand or standing mixer to whip the cream. Put in the fridge to keep cold while the crepes cook. 3. Remove the crepe batter from the fridge. After your non-stick pan has heated up, use a 1/4 of a cup ladle 1/2-1/3 full to create a thin circle of batter in the pan. Turn the pan in a circular motion to spread the batter as thin as possible. Let it cook for about 1-2 minutes; as soon as the batter gets darker and you are able to fit your spatula underneath, flip the
crepe. Let it cook for about 30 seconds -1 minute before repeating. 4. As the crepes are cooked and begin to cool, stick them in the freezer. Once they are all cooked and cooled, place one on a plate and cover with your whipped cream. Place another crepe on top and repeat until you have made your cake. Do not ice the top. 5. There are a variety of ways to finish your crepe cake. In the pictures you see, a generous dollop of whipped cream was added on top before being garnished with matcha powder and a piece of chocolate. The chocolate can also be chopped and added between layers, or shaved and placed on top. Another way to finish the cake might be to wrap it in plastic wrap and place it in the freezer. Once frozen, chop the cake into a square before cutting it into smaller squares. Cover each piece with melted chocolate to make matcha cake bites.
ramen “caldo” with beef brisket BY MOYO ABIONA PHOTOS BY NORA BRADFORD
The Spanish term “caldo” simply means broth or soup, though the many resulting culinary possibilities are anything but simple. This recipe uses an easy vegetable broth, and adds smoky beef brisket for texture and flavor. Feel free to omit the meat for a delicious veggie caldo. Ramen, a quintessential staple of college food, is used as an alternative to more expensive noodles, such as vermicelli. I love spicy food, so the spices are measured to my taste. Make sure to add spices to suit your own taste. Enjoy!
get: • 6 cups water • salt • 1 pack frozen vegetable blend • 1 small onion, chopped • 1/2 tbsp. garlic powder • 1/2 tbsp. black pepper • ~1 pound fully-cooked pulled beef brisket • 1/2 tsp. cumin • 1 tsp. paprika • 1 tsp. cayenne
do: • 1 tsp. crushed red pepper • 1 tsp. black pepper • 1/2 tsp. garlic powder • 1 tbsp. chili powder • 1 tbsp. chipotle Tabasco • 3 packets Ramen noodles Serves: 3-5 Preparation Time: 10 minutes Cook Time: 30 minutes
1. Bring water to a boil on high heat and add salt to taste. 2. Add frozen vegetables and boil until soft, about 12 minutes. 3. Take off heat and pour out broth with vegetables into a separate bowl. 4. In same pot, melt butter and sauté onions. 5. Add garlic powder and black pepper. 6. Add beef brisket and combine. Let sit for ~2-3 minutes. 7. Add broth and vegetables and combine well. 8. Add salt, spices, and chipotle Tabasco. Bring caldo to a boil. 9. Add ramen (without seasoning) and cook for ~4-5 minutes, covered. 10. Mix caldo and take off heat. 11. Serve hot…Buen Provecho!
Recipes
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BY ALYCE OH PHOTOS BY JENNY KIM
Jerk Chicken get: Jerk Chicken: • 3.5 lbs bone in, skin on chicken thigh • 8 scallions • 2 habanero peppers • 2 inch piece of ginger, peeled • 6 garlic cloves • 1 T thyme • 2 T allspice • 2 T soy sauce • 2 T brown sugar • juice of two limes • 1 T white vinegar • 1/4 of a small onion • 1 T of kosher salt • 1 T ground black pepper • 1/2 cup canola or vegetable oil
Mango Coleslaw: • 1/2 head of green cabbage, sliced into strips • 1/4 head of purple cabbage, sliced into strips • 3-4 carrots, peeled and julienned • 1/3 cup of chopped parsley • 1 ripe mango, cut into strips • 1/3 cup scallions, chopped Dressing: • 4 T dijon mustard • 4 T honey • 2 T minced jalapeño pepper • 2 tsp minced garlic • 4 T olive oil
Serves: 5 Preparation Time: 30 min Cook Time: 1 hr 10 min 21
bite | spring 2017
with Mango Colesaw
This recipe for jerk chicken thighs and mango coleslaw has got you covered for every occasion— it’s easy enough to prepare for a make-ahead, weekday meal, but also impressive enough to serve as a main course at a dinner party. Originally from Africa but popularized in the Caribbean, jerk is a style of seasoning involving a dry rub or wet-marinade that can be applied to nearly any choice of protein. Jerk chicken, in particular, is traditionally cooked over pimento wood branches on an outdoor grill, but this
recipe keeps the limited resources of the average college student in mind and opts for the oven instead. Most of the ingredients are pantry staples you probably have on hand, in addition to a few novel, yet accessible ones such as allspice and habanero. These are essential to the aromatic flavor of the dish, so don’t be tempted to omit them. The coleslaw is a great accompaniment to the chicken, foregoing the usual heavy mayo for a bright and tangy dressing, instead. Give it a try, and you’ll be jibing with island vibes for days.
do: 1. Prepare all marinade ingredients and palce all at once in a blender. Blend until smooth. 2. Pat chicken thighs dry with paper towel and slather with marinade, making sure to get it under the skin. Place marinated chicken into tupperware container or large Ziploc bag and allow for it to marinade for 12-36 hours in the fridge. 3. When the chicken is ready to be cooked, remove it from the fridge and let it sit on the counter for 30 minutes. This will allow the chicken to come up to temperature before being put in the oven. 4. Preheat your oven to 375. Place the chicken thighs on a large, aluminum- lined sheet pan, spacing them out as much as possible. 5. Place the sheet pan of chicken into the oven
and cook for 1 hour to 1 hour and 20 minutes, chekcing periodically for coloring. Remove the chicken when the skin is crispy and has a blackened — but not burnt — coloring. Let the chicken rest for at least 10-15 minutes before serving. 6. While the chicken is in the oven, prepare the coleslaw. Combine all coleslaw ingredients except the mango in a bowl and mix. Combine all dressing ingedients in a separate bowl and mix. 7. Add mango strips, pour dressing over coleslaw, and combine shortly before serving. Sources: Jerk Chicken recipe adapated from The New York Times Mango Coleslaw recipe adapted from Immaculate Bites
apple + Butternut squash bruschetta BY PARKER MEE PHOTOS BY ANGELA FUNG
Departing from summer leaves distinctly fewer choices for starters. As the time for watermelon, slaw, and grilling ends, I was left not knowing a solid starter for get-togethers. I came across a recipe for a butternut squash and apple bruschetta on WhitneyBond.com. I adapted some of the spicing suggestions and ingredient proportions and really
enjoyed the results. It’s a strong choice for any party that you want to kick off with something that is both sweet and savory. The addition of the balsamic glaze really makes all the other flavors pop and takes this recipe to another level. The intersection of these amazing flavors will be a great choice to pair with any spicy autumn flavors.
get: • 1.5 cups diced butternut squash • 1.5 cup diced apples • 6 tbsp olive oil (divided) • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • 12 tsp ground nutmeg • ¼ tsp allspice
• ¼ tsp ground cloves • 1 tsp kosher salt (divided) • 1 tsp black pepper (divided) • 8 slices french bread • 1 cup ricotta cheese
• 4 cloves garlic (minced) • 6-8 fresh sage leaves (chopped) • 2 tbsp balsamic glaze Serves: 8 pieces of bruschetta Preparation Time: 25 min Cook Time: 20 min
do: 1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F 2. Toss butternut squash and apples with 2 tbsp olive oil, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, ½ tsp kosher salt and ½ tsp black pepper 3. Place on baking sheet on top of foil and place in oven for 15 minutes 4. While the apple and butternut squash are baking, brush French bread with olive oil 5. Mix the ricotta cheese with remaining black pepper and kosher salt
6. Using a small skillet, add 2 tbsp of olive oil over medium high heat. Sauté garlic and sage for 1-2 minutes 7. Toss sautéed garlic and sage with butternut squash and apple once they come out of the oven 8. Place bread in oven for ~5 minutes or until toasted to your liking 9. Once bread comes out of the oven, top with ricotta mix and then place squash and apple mix atop that 10. Finish with a balsamic glaze drizzle.
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