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dear foo d ie s & fr i en d s As we eagerly welcome the arrival of warm weather and await the start of summer break, this issue is dedicated to new beginnings and new chapters. With blooming flowers and the dawn of seasonal fruits, our front cover pays homage to the generous beauty of the earth and all that it offers, while evoking the feeling of spring that we all look forward to every year as the school year comes to an end. As in every issue of Bite, we are constantly looking for new eats and new discoveries, while appreciating the community that brings us together and recognizing the origins of the food we consume. In the contents of this issue, you’ll see that we explore ways to make our culinary consumption sustainable and healthy, with our feature on Windy City Harvest, an urban farm that employs vulnerable populations (p. 9), and a review of vegetarian restaurant Bad Hunter, located in the West Loop (p. 7). We also look to new openings in our community, from the advocacy-oriented Sanctuary Cafe in University Church (p.16) to Daebak (p. 4), a recently opened Korean barbeque restaurant in nearby Chinatown. In our recipes, we celebrate fresh produce and evoke the flavors of spring with a peach galette (p. 24), as well as hot cross apple scones (p. 26). As you read through these pages, we hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed creating it!
the editors 2
bite | spring 2017 BITE | WINTER 2017
table of contents 4 daebak 5 le colonial 6 nini’s deli 7 bad hunter 8 pub royale 9 Green space 12 pasta 14 feeding the soul 16 sanctuary cafe 19 NANA: interview with omar solis 22 viennese cafe culture 24 peach galette 25 korean fried chicken 26 apple scones Editor-in-Chief Joe Joseph Managing editor Karen Sung creative directors HYEONG-SUN CHO, KATHRYN YIN MARKETING DIRECTOR SAISHA PANJABI designers karen xu, suhasni singh, yarra elmasry, yolanda yu, yuna song writers AANYA JHAVERI, ALAN YANG, alyce oh, analiese batchelor, DAPHNE XU, ELI HARTER, ISAAC TANNENBAUM, KATE FUELL, KATiE MCPOLIN, melanie wang, MOYO ABIONA, NIKITA COUTINHO, PAIGE RESNICK, RACHEL WEINBREN photographers ANDY ZHAO, ANGELA FUNG, ANJALI DHILLON, FIONA GASAWAY, GABBY LUU, GIOVANNA DECASTRO, JENNY KIM, MARIA XU, MELANIE WANG, PEGGY XU, rebecca oh, sarah larson, YARRA ELMASRY COVER PHOTO yarra elmasry
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REVIEW:
Daebak by// Melanie Wang
neighborhood
Chinatown pRICES
$$
dISHES TO TRY
Beef Combo Kim Chi Pancake
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Nestled in the heart of Chicago’s Chinatown, Daebak, a Korean barbeque restaurant, has been advertising their “soft opening” since February. Daebak translates to “awesome” in English, so we knew we had to check this place out. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who led us to a long, stainless steel table. The restaurant has the feel of an authentic Korean restaurant. The restaurant, located on the second floor of the building, offers a solid view of Chinatown, but the main highlight of the layout is the giant TV screens. Projected all around the restaurant are various K-Pop singers and their music videos. It offers a more authentic vibe, making you feel more surrounded by Korean art and culture while enjoying the food. The music is upbeat and enjoyable for all, regardless of whether or not you are a K-Pop fan. We enjoyed watching the videos and jamming out to the music, even though some of us had never heard any of it before. The restaurant offers separate platters of meat – mainly pork or beef – as well as combination platters that include sides. We opted for the beef combo, which came with a set of thinly sliced brisket, a slab of marinated boneless short ribs, and a bowl of seasoned
prime boneless short ribs. The combo was served with an assortment of side dishes, which taste pretty good eaten alone too, such as bean sprouts, potato salad, fish cakes, kimchi, kimchi radish and turnip, squash, and soybeans. The kimchi offered a spicy and salty flavor sensation to the tongue, but was rather over seasoned and had not been fermented long enough, likely because of mass production. The food, grilled by the waitress, wafted savory smells across the restaurant and made our mouths water. We were instructed to dip the beef in the sesame sauce provided and wrap it in lettuce with some of the sides. This truly was an amazing combination of flavors; the meat was melt-in-yourmouth tender and paired well with the kimchi and sauce. Personally, my favorite was the brisket slices because they were thin and full of flavor; the fatty parts of the slices also came out slightly crispy, adding a nice contrast. The restaurant is BYOB, and only offers water upon request, but the staff was attentive and cooked our food well. Though it is a bit pricier than many of the surrounding restaurants, Daebak is a must for lovers of Korean BBQ. The quality of their products is worth it, and the place itself is lively and inviting.
REVIEW:
le colonial by // eli harter photos // fiona gasaway
One risk that comes with college students eating at high-end establishments in expensive areas around Chicago is the quality-price ratio. It can be difficult to navigate the truly excellent restaurants from those that take advantage of their rich guests with mediocre food. I have to say I was a little nervous approaching Le Colonial, housed within the extravagant Gold Coast, especially after finding the pleasant two story building sandwiched between a Versace and Brunello Cucinelli. All those fears vanished instantly upon sitting down. The atmosphere perfectly reflected the blend of French-Vietnamese cuisine. The pristine white tablecloths and flower vases, gold embroidery and the coziness invoked by the interior complemented beautifully with the palm trees and tropical fragrance carried in the air. The product was a tropical French Villa far away from the sights and sounds of Chicago. The waiter was patient and respectful, and the quiet ambience was a refreshing treat to end a stressful week. A crowning achievement of Le Colonial’s menu is the array of diverse appetizers, with a well-balanced representation of the bold seafood flavors of Vietnam and the delicate patisserie elements from France. Our waiter recommended the Banh Uot, which was a rice noodle roll filled with sesame beef on a bed of pickled cucumber and lettuce with fresh herbs. Given the relatively cheap price of the dish, there was a generous amount of soft-stringy meat. The other appetizer, the Goi Cuon, paired perfectly. The shrimp roll exploded with the flavors of spring. The powerful greens had an earthy punch that coalesced with the refined shrimp, supplying all the
texture without the overwhelming shellfish taste. My only complaint was the plum sauce. It could have provided the sweet and tangy flavor to balance out the dish, but ended up a bit too plain to hit the palate fully. For the main course, I ordered a soup, salad, and entree to hit all the areas of the menu. I ordered the Ga Xao Cari, a chicken curry dish with mango, cashews, Japanese eggplant, yams, and bean sprouts. The rice had a starchy chewy nature that set it apart from other Asian relatives. The chicken was a show stopper. I have had chicken from all over the world, and this truly was one of the best. It was so tender that it quite literally melted on the tongue and soaked up the fragrant yellow curry. The dish was a testament to both texture and taste. With the soft chicken and eggplant elements competing with the slightly unripe mango and yams, every bite was exciting and refreshing. Another surprise was the Bo Luc Lac salad. The fresh watercress and bold red-wine vinaigrette was topped with a heap of filet mignon. The steak had a distinct stir-fried flavor that was utterly different from the Banh Uot appetizer. However, while the Canh Hoanh Ton was a good soup, with the characteristic fish-stock broth from the southeast, it fell slightly short compared to the other items. All together, for three meals and two appetizers, the bill was very affordable. The appetizers were certainly the highlight, and for a price of $10-15 each for a bold and filling dish, it is certainly worth a return trip for lunch or dinner on any day of the week.
neighborhood
Near North Side pRICES
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dISHES TO TRY
Banh Uot Ga Xao Cari
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REVIEW:
When I first arrived at Nini’s Deli on a Friday afternoon, I was flooded with disappointment as I read the construction paper sign on the door: “Sorry, all out of everything! See you soon!” How could a restaurant that supposedly closes at 6pm be out of food three hours prior? But when I returned much earlier in the afternoon the next day, I understood why. The small, casual restaurant had a line of people from the door all the way to the front register, where Juan Riesco takes orders, makes drinks, and chats with customers with a strikingly genuine and welcoming enthusiasm. Nini’s is family owned, originally started as a grocery store by Juan’s father and mother. The food is influenced by Juan’s parents’ Cuban and Mexican backgrounds, creating a menu that is certainly not traditional, but truly unique. The menu, scrawled across a couple of chalkboards, is concise: two sandwiches, a burrito, some empanadas, a few desserts, and a couple drinks. Specials crop up on the weekend, but it is obvious that the menu is pretty consistent. Juan seemed to know every customer by name and greeted each one with loud and infectious warmth, his voice surpassing the upbeat Cuban music playing from the speakers. When I finally reached
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by // paige resnick photos by // yarra elmasry
the counter, I was treated no differently. My dining companions and I ordered a Veggie Empanada and special beef slider to start. Steam billowed out of the empanada as I broke open the perfectly golden and crispy shell. The combination of the gooey cheese and the bright spinach complemented each other perfectly, but the true star was the crust. The special slider was drool-worthy just to look at, with shredded beef sitting between two fried plantain slices as buns and cheese oozing everywhere. The slider was definitely heavy, but my fork kept reaching for the tender meat. I also ordered an El Cubanito sandwich and a Hibiscus Lemonade. The multi-colored lemonade is surely Instagram worthy in its mason jar, and the sweet and refreshing taste is a great compliment to the meal. The sandwich, however, was certainly the highlight. An egg omelet, black beans, cheese, and plantains sit between two slices of French bread, and I added avocado to mine. The egg sits as the perfect backdrop to the salty cheese and the sweet plantains, and the crunchy, toasted bread adds great texture. The blend of flavors is unique and quite heavenly, prompting a satisfied sigh from me with each bite. The food arrived on charming checkered paper, and there was a bottle of Sriracha waiting at every
table to complement the meal. The flavors at Nini’s are consistently comforting and delicious, with savory-sweet balances that are sure to delight. Nini’s is not trying to be complex or fancy -- Juan simply makes delicious food with a love and happiness that clearly shines through, so come for the food, come for the atmosphere, and come for the intimate neighborhood eatery that is Nini’s Deli.
neighborhood
West Town pRICES
$ dISHES TO TRY
El Cubanito
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Bad Hunter by// Kate Fuell photos // Rebecca oh
If you are looking to skip the outrageous wait time characteristic of Au Cheval, located conveniently next door in the West Loop is Bad Hunter, the perfect restaurant to satisfy your inner vegetarian cravings. This “vegforward” restaurant presents high quality food in an upbeat, creative atmosphere. Filled with plants in the recreation of a greenhouse, Bad Hunter embraces the vegetarian mindset with rigor. With a white neon sign announcing its presence in the restaurant-filled, bustling neighborhood -- Bad Hunter, with its energetic ambience and delicious food, is sure to make a name for itself. To begin the meal, we sampled the saffron farfalle. Saffron farfalle is the vegetarian take on pasta Bolognese, topped with Parmesan and grapefruit breadcrumbs. The root Bolognese was a fantastic and inventive meat supplement. Easily the most filling dish of the night, the warmth of the dish was refreshing. However, the slightly overcooked vegetables in the mix lessened the appeal of the dish slightly. The sourdough bread porridge, while an interesting concept, was the one dish that left me confused and disappointed. A very sweet dish, the porridge did not seem to pair well with the menu, or restaurant itself. The sweetness was initially overwhelming, and once the flavor marinated in my mouth, left a poor, sugary taste. The butter dumplings are the famous
addition to Bad Hunter’s rotating menu. These corn, shitake mushroom, Asian pear and kimchi cucumber dumplings were the highlight of the meal. The filling was creamy and rich, with a nice sear on the dough. The sweet of the pear complemented the tang of the seared dumpling. The nontraditional take on both dumplings, and vegetarian food, was the most promising and most rewarding dish. The best meal of the night, however, was the fry bread and burrata. The crunchy yet chewy fry bread was topped with smooth, creamy, melting burrata. The collision of the two savory ingredients was heavenly. The salt of both the bread and the cheese was slightly overwhelming, yet incredibly satisfying. The West Loop, readily available off the green line, is a festive, restaurant speckled area of the city. With streets lined with small bookstores, dimly lit coffee shops, and world-class restaurants, there are limitless options for an afternoon in the area. Bad Hunter is a fantastic option for an eclectic vegetarian dining experience. With adventurous meat supplements and a broad range of flavors, Bad Hunter is a pleasurable dining experience. With small portions, however, leaving hungry might be your fate. Even so, if a trek down the green-line seems to be in your future – Bad Hunter is a worthwhile stop. Go for the West Loop experience, stay for the food.
neighborhood
West Loop pRICES
$$
dISHES TO TRY
Fry Bread Burrata
reviews
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REVIEW:
pub royale by // aanya Jhaveri photos // andy zhao
neighborhood
Wicker Park pRICES
$$ dISHES TO TRY
Salt Cod Samosa Keema Paratha
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Wicker Park’s Division Street is a hub for foodie and Instagram favorites, and its 2015 addition Pub Royale does not fail to deliver. The restaurant’s interior is decorated with exposed brick, hanging lanterns and raised bar seating that gives the whole place a welcoming and comfortable feel. The spot’s late hours and extensive drink offerings make Pub Royale exactly that — a Pub — but their British-Indian fusion menu is nothing to be glanced over either. To start off, I tried the Salt Cod Samosa and the Keema Paratha, both of which came steaming hot and portioned perfectly to share. Biting into the samosa, an Indianized take on traditional fish and chips, exposed a cod mix tossed in a white sauce within the perfectly crunchy exterior. The dish also came with a chutney that added a bit of spice and acidity to the otherwise creamy filling. The paratha was perhaps the more traditionally ‘Indian’ dish out of the two; a thin bread similar to a roti was stuffed with a very thin layer of minced lamb, tossed in spices and paired with a cucumber yogurt sauce (called a raita). This dish was surprisingly light in comparison to the heavier samosas, and the paratha dipped into the raita gave it a tangy taste that added another level of flavor beyond the pockets of spice in the meat. For a main course — even though
I was sufficiently stuffed at that point — I tried the Chicken Tikka Kati Roll and the Mussels dish. While the roll was decent but surprisingly a little underwhelming — the chicken to bread ratio was generously in favor of the chicken, which made it hard to eat without making a mess — the real star of this restaurant’s menu shone in the mussels. Impeccably tender and easy to pop out of the shell, the mussels were drenched in a coconut curry sauce that I can only describe as heavenly. The curry was light, spicy, tangy, and the flavors that particularly stood out were that of turmeric and chill powder, with the faint undertones of the sweetness of coconut. The piece of naan it came with, I will admit, was devoured simply by using it to scrape up whatever last droplets of sauce I could find lurking in the plate. Overall, Pub Royale’s menu works well with its tall drink offerings, with most dishes being served on small plates and made easy to share. A couple of them, however, such as the Chicken Tikka Kati roll and perhaps even the Cod Samosas are a little too heavy to be considered ‘bar food’ in the traditional sense, yet are still enjoyable if you’re looking for a meal. If you do venture out to Wicker Park anytime soon, though, the mussels at Pub Royale are absolutely not to be missed.
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rban farms have a complicated reputation. In 2014, the New Yorker wrote about the connection between the rise of urban agriculture and gentrification in major metropolitan areas. Last year, Comedy Central’s hit show Broad City mocked rooftop farms in New York City as being examples of pretentious, white, hipster nonsense. Nonetheless, Windy City Harvest, an organization based in Chicago with around 10 operating farms throughout the region, challenges this stereotype. A subset of the Chicago Botanical Gardens, Windy City Harvest’s gardens are not your typical urban farms. Instead of being tended to mainly by volunteers, the organization has an intensive staffing program with four tracks. Two of these programs, the Corps and Youth Farm, seek to benefit the community in other ways than just providing people with fresh, organic produce. These two tracks are aimed at two vulnerable groups often in need of assistance: at-risk youth and individuals who were recently released from prison. Windy City Harvest provides those in these programs with an education and vocational training, which prepares them for a life in the agricultural
and horticultural world in addition to other marketable skills. Especially for the youth and former inmates, it also affords them a sense of community and a refuge from temptations of criminality and gang activity. Another program at Windy City Harvest is their Apprenticeship, a fourteen-week paid internship for adults, “dislocated workers,” and graduates of the Youth Farm or Corps program. Run in partnership with the City College of Chicago’s Daley College, this opportunity provides its participants with the experience and know-how of running a successful, sustainable farm, be it in an urban or rural environment. I had the opportunity to visit Windy City Harvest’s Rodeo Farm, in Little Village, to experience their work firsthand, both as a source of organic produce and as a center for change in the Chicago area. There, I met a man named Kenneth Gordon, an apprentice at the farm who had just celebrated one year with Windy City Harvest. He told me what work was like on the farm, explaining how the workers do everything, from sowing the seeds to building the greenhouses found on each property. He spoke highly of the organization and the good it does, especially for the youths and former inmates involved. This is not the only good that Windy City Harvest does, though. In addition to providing these educational and vocational opportunities,
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This opportunity provides its participants with the experience and knowhow of running a successful, sustainable farm, be it in an urban or rural environment.”
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their produce immediately benefits the greater Chicago community. A portion of the vegetables are sold at stores such as Whole Foods as well as local farmers markets, in order to support and sustain the organization. Yet the food is also distributed in what Kenneth Gordon described to me as “prescription boxes,” which is part of Windy City Harvest’s “Food as Medicine” project. The organization found that Chicagoans were seeking medical treatment for illnesses and issues resulting from a poor diet. Individuals, especially those living below the poverty line, lacked in their diets the fruits, vegetables, vitamins, and minerals which are conducive to both a healthy lifestyle
and healthy body, and were suffering the consequences. Windy City Harvest subsequently created this project as a way for doctors to prescribe their patients with boxes that contained the necessary foods to help remedy their issues and set them on the path toward a healthier lifestyle. Windy City Harvest might cater toward people who can afford to shop at Whole Foods and pricier restaurants around the city; ultimately, though, the positive effects they have on the Chicagoland community make it a strong example of what an urban farm should be: a place where people come together to better themselves and others through the power of agriculture. features
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FEEDING T A
fter a soul-filled spring break in New Orleans, Louisiana, I was craving a new dining experience altogether. No matter the hour in NOLA, one is guaranteed to find a tasty morsel and excellent music to match. From the tourist trap of Bourbon Street in the French Quarter to the local’s favorite Frenchmen Street, the sounds of musicians, both local and foreign, fill the air. Consequently, music
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is an inescapable and essential part of the dining experience in the Crescent City. And while Chicago is no Big Easy, I was skeptical that the restaurant scene here is… one note. Indeed, this city is anything but. With its rich legacy of blues and soul, Chicago has its fair share of gems that dazzle not just the tongue, but also the ears. In the downtown areas of the Loop and River North, tourists and locals alike enjoy performances that are true to Chicago. Consider the iconic Andy’s Jazz Club and Restaurant, a River North staple that has been serving up American fare and hosting some of the city’s best jazz musicians since 1951. For Latin flair, nearby is Havana Grill, where one can enjoy Cuban cookery and sip mojitos while listening to live music by Chicago based bands such as Vagando. In the Loop, one can find the blues club Buddy Guy’s Legends, which weds Louisiana inspired cuisine and
quintessential Chicago performers thanks to Buddy Guy himself. Next to the river is River Roast, which entertains with a blues brunch on the weekend and other live music. For a speakeasy-like experience, visit Untitled Supper Club, pictured in this article. Its entrance is true to its name, but going through the large, unassuming wooden doors left of a certain CVS, one will find a most lavish establishment. On this particular
BY ALAN YANG PHOTOS BY MARIA XU
THE SOUL by alan yang • photos by maria xu
Saturday night, we were graced with the performances of Aniba Hotep and the Sol Collective, a R&B/soul group based here in Chicago. Check the calendars of Andy’s, Buddy Guy’s, and Untitled for who will be performing and note that they card in the late evening. Moving out of downtown always has its perks, and locals in Chicago go above and beyond. Ride the Brown Line to Lincoln Square to find Chicago Brauhaus, a German eatery specializing in Bavarian style music and hospitality for all ages to enjoy. Their grandiose display of festivity has landed them a spot on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives and is captured in their own album Music at the Chicago Brauhaus. In Lincoln Park resides the famed Kingston Mines, where Grease first premiered in 1971. Since 1982, this venue has operated as a blues club, serving a full menu of barbecue on the side as well.
Student IDs waive cover charge Monday through Thursday thanks to its proximity to DePaul. For barbecue with a side of music, look to Honky Tonk BBQ in Pilsen and Smoke Daddy on Division in Wicker Park. Creating a Middle Eastern escape from monotony, the Ramli family shows that they are more than their Sultan’s Market: Masada, named after their matriarch, serving as a space dedicated to Middle Eastern cuisine and Arabic and Latin music. Listen to tunes every Wednesday during “Habibi Hour.” It is captivating, but not surprising that Chicago has such a rich and diverse pick of restaurants that devote themselves to entertainment of variety. This list is certainly not comprehensive, nor does it do this city justice. But if I have learned anything about exploring Chicago, it is to keep my eyes peeled, my nose sniffing, and my ears open. Who knows what one might find? features
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sanctuary cafe
katie mcpolin
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hough Sanctuary Cafe only opened its doors in early April, it has incorporated seamlessly into our campus as a space focused not only on food, but also on creating an engaged community. University Church has long been at the epicenter of social and political life in Hyde Park. An institution “devoted to a gospel of justice and peace”1, it has opened its doors warmly and unconditionally to students and the Hyde Park community for decades. As a New Sanctuary church dedicated to protecting immigrants from deportation, a backdrop to the recent campaign to build a Level One Trauma Center in the medical center, and a parish constantly bustling with after-school tutoring, rummage sales, and friendly exchange, it seems the ideal foothold for a “social justice cafe”. So the idealists at Stories Connect were able to nestle comfortably into this community, adapting the cafe as a visionary space for art,
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activism, and advocacy. Stories Connect is a social justice-based art collaborator that publishes essays, recorded conversations, and other media from marginalized authors, as well as plans events to “[invite] conversations from the margins.”2 Sanctuary Cafe operates with this mission in mind, playing host this past month to an open mic night centered on exploring gender, an art reception showcasing works by women of color, and a series of performances celebrating Sikh Heritage Month. Beyond that, the cafe serves as a crossroads for students and families, artists and organizers alike. Stories Connect has expressed their vision of the cafe as “a transformational place that induces a close connection between home baked smells, art and justice advocacy in a meticulously curated environment”3 -- in short, Sanctuary Cafe is an inclusive, peaceful nook on a campus bustling with political thought and activity. It is a place for an organic exchange of thoughts, a setting
food curated to set its inhabitants at ease; at its core, Sanctuary Cafe seeks to provide a home for all displaced by an unequal society. Entering the cafe through the church doors, the space is cozy, but smart. You can see artists bringing in canvasses to line the walls in an ever-changing gallery, as the barista shuffles over to lend a hammer and a hand. The seating is engaging and communal, with a long main table extending down the center of the dining area, as smaller tables bracket the side walls to invite more intimate conversations. The lighting is dim, and the room buzzes with focus. Most importantly, though, is that beyond the students quietly working, there is a conversation happening at each table – the room is intense with productivity, but not quiet. The counter, though, is alive with pastries and opulent cakes, all glowing under the glass. A brand new tea assortment awaits behind the bar, featuring a dazzling and floral selection – think names like “Water Colors” and “African Flowers” – from SenTEAmental Moods, a locally-based tea company owned and operated by
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women. Chef Edward Cabral, an artist himself, works meticulously behind the kitchen doors until he peeks out to conduct an interview. As he floats out into the room, apron in hand, it is remarkable how effortlessly he fits into his vision as he sits down at one of the side tables, adjusts his glasses, gestures at the art on the walls. Though he has played a major part in intentionally constructing this space, he does not hover above it or hold it at
arm’s length – he is a part of it, and the community it seeks to create. In its infancy Sanctuary Cafe has provided a warm and engaging space, transcending the typical expectations of an on-campus cafe: it’s not built for students, or for the purpose of individual study. It’s built for organizing, for awareness, for engagement in a progressive community. The idea of intentionally building a space around the conversations we should be having is not only refreshing, but also necessary. 1
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University Church, “About Us”, <”http://universitychurchchicago.org/about/history-2/”> 2 Stories Connect, “About”, <”http://storiesconnect.org/about/”> 3 Stories Connect, “Sanctuary Cafe”, <”http://storiesconnect.org/sanctuary-cafe/”>
Nana Omar Solis Interview with
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The allure of having breakfast at Nana, an innovative, family-owned organic restaurant in Bridgeport drew a dedicated Sunday crowd, filling tables inside the warm red-brick building within an hour of the doors opening. The menu displays a unique blend of American cuisine with Latin American, Spanish, and Mexican influences. The savory starter, crispy Avocado Fries paired with refreshing cilantro and creamy chipotle-lime aioli, is an excellent new addition to the menu. Classic staples such as Chocolate Pancakes are distinguished by their richness, and their toppings such as fresh whipped cream, and innovations like the decadent Orange Dreamsicle French Toast, paired with orange marmalade, orange mascarpone, and candied orange, tantalize. In an interview with the owner of Nana, Mr. Omar Solis modestly admitted to his creative contributions to the menu which include highly popular breakfast items like the Nanadict, (made with chorizo, poached eggs, and poblano cream sauce) and the delectable Baked Chilaquiles. Other items on the menu that are a must include the Plantain Sandwich and the Grilled Spicy Shrimp & Oyster Poâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Boy.
written by Annaliese Batchelor photos by Jenny Kim
Mr. Solis believes in clean eating and prides himself on preparing all items in-house from organic produce grown on sustainable farms, and items on the menu are varied seasonally, in order to remain as locally-sourced as possible year-round. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Keeping it localâ&#x20AC;? is a farm-to-table ideology with many benefits, including reducing carbon emissions in food transportation. Minimizing transportation time also maximizes the nutrients retained in the fresh ingredients consumed by the customer. Mr. Solis also admires that this ideology supports the small business people who are driven by their passion. Nana is also regularly involved in philanthropic efforts that give back to the local community, including working with the Archdiocese of Chicago to feed the homeless, donating food to the Greater Food Depository of Chicago, and making annual charitable donations in monetary form.
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Think of your body as a vehicle, and don’t take your youth for-granted; emphasize good health habits now.
While the internet’s provision of some clean-eating options may make the movement seem exotic or even extreme, such as an article recently published on the cleaneatingmag.com website entitled Why You Should be Eating Crickets Instead of Beef, Mr. Solis assures that solutions for a fitter and happier lifestyle through clean eating are not all far out -- or so far out of reach. Clean eating, he said, is simply “getting down to the basics of food:” environmentally, financially, and most importantly, in its ability to enrich one’s health. Nana’s ingredients are carefully selected to be free from synthetic preservatives, growth hormones, genetically modified ingredients, antibiotics, pesticides, and artificial colors and flavors. Speaking from his own experience, Mr. Solis is convinced that there can be no shortcut when it comes to health; there is “no fountain of youth,” so
making a choice like changing the way one eats in order to improve their lifelong health “just makes sense, every aspect of it.” When asked about his hope for the future of the clean eating movement, Mr. Solis wishes that people would look into their food choices as seriously as they would, for example, consider investing in education. And his message for college students? “Think of your body as a vehicle, and don’t take your youth for-granted; emphasize good health habits now. Make proper food choices, support local food movements, and try to be conscious about what you are eating.” Mr. Solis ardently emphasized that food could not be seen as just an aspect of pleasure, because “it is so much more; it is a form of giving your body nutrients.”
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T
ake a walk down pretty much any street in Vienna and find a cafe with a table awaiting your arrival. They are usually marked by an awning, black or blue or any color you can imagine, tables and chairs with umbrellas on the sidewalk outside, and at least one or two tables filled with friends and family enjoying coffee together. While Starbucks exists in Vienna, these cafes are nothing like the stop-and-go homework central in America; they are lunch spots, Sunday morning traditions, and a place to sit, drink, and take in the day. As the website of Julius Meinl, a popular coffee brand in Vienna, states, â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is a place where all sorts of individuals meet to discuss their dreams, to reflect on their thoughts, to share their ideas, to compose masterpieces, to read or just to quietly sit and watch our colorful life happen.â&#x20AC;? The coffee culture is not that of grab-and-go, but rather sit-and-enjoy; it is not that the people in Vienna do not lead busy lives, but rather they give up a few minutes to sit down to rest and sip a cup of fresh-brewed coffee. Cafes vary in what cakes and foods they offer, but they always have the cup of coffee you are craving. The Austrian National Tourist Office explains that cafes have always been a place for people of all backgrounds and social classes to sit together and enjoy a drink and a pastry. With so many cafes to choose from, location and cafe type come down to be the deciding factors when picking a cafe. Cafes can be chains, they can be artsy, they can be a space with large tables right next to the university and the train station; no matter what, the Viennese coffee is good and the atmosphere calm and welcoming.
Aida, for example, is hard to miss: it has a pink awning and can be seen on many busy streets around the city. It has descriptive pictures of the drinks they offer, which as mostly the famous Viennese coffees like the melange, cappuccino, latte, and cafe au lait. The pastry cabinet is always filled and the atmosphere bright. Another options is Jonas Reindl, a favorite among many students. It is right across from the university train stop, down the street from the main university building, and has a beautiful view Votive Church, a beautiful neoGothic two-spired church in Vienna. It is a welcoming environment with people studying, catching up, taking a minute to sit during their day. It is a break from the bustling city that one leaves when they walk in the doors and will return to as soon as they leave. Meanwhile, Cafe Phil is a hip and artsy cafe in a hipstertype area of Vienna. It is filled with books, has great coffee and other drinks, and is a place for many students and twenty-somethings to hang out after class or grab some desert and a drink after dinner. The drinks range from classic melanges to matcha lattes, occasionally hosts live bands, and is a coffee-house-meets-book-store. Viennese coffee houses come in different shapes and types on every street of the city, always there when you need a coffee break or a place to meet up with friends. Viennese Coffee is the ultimate treat, with two scoops of ice cream in a coffee with sugar, vanilla, and cream. Whipped cream, milk, chocolatey, or black, there is always a cup, a chair, and a table awaiting your arrival in cafes around Vienna.
by rachel weinbren
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peach galette BY DAPHNE XU |I PHOTOS BY FIONA GASAWAY In Chicago, springtime never seems to come soon enough! To coax some sunshine and warmth out from underneath the clouds, we have a recipe in mind that brings the color and tartness of spring in one fragrant pastry. This recipe for a ginger peach galette—rustic-inspired and akin to a free-form version of a pie—folds the tanginess of peach and the spiciness of ginger into a simple dessert that will undoubtedly brighten any day. The almond-crusted outside softens the two flavors without overpowering the filling, and when the pastry bakes in the oven, all of your neighbors will swarm over for
a taste. A quick tip for anyone who hopes to add this recipe to their spring staples: the dough shouldn’t be too moist, because it may not hold the filling as well. If it crumbles a bit at first, let it chill in the refrigerator and then roll it out. You’ll find that a crumble or two actually reinforces the strength of the crust. A sprig of mint adds the perfect touch of green to this pastry, and voilà! It is perfect for a spring potluck dinner, a gathering of friends and family, or just for you to enjoy. Adapted from How Sweet It Is
do: 1. Prepare the dough first. Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a large mixing-bowl. Gently stir and then add egg, vinegar, ice water, and unsalted butter. If a stand-mixer is available, use on low speed—if not, bring together the dough with your hands. The dough is finished when it mostly holds but still appears crumbly. Wrap in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to chill. 2. In the meantime, slice peaches into ¼ inch quarters. Combine peaches, sugar, salt, cornstarch, ground ginger and grated ginger until wellincorporated. Let mixture rest for ten minutes. 3. Preheat oven to 400 F°. Remove dough from the refrigerator and roll into a circle (an imperfect one is absolutely fine) until about a ¼ inch thick. Afterwards, place peaches onto the dough, leaving two inches from the border. Peaches can be arranged in whatever fashion desired, but it is recommended to work inwards instead of outwards. 4. Once peaches have been placed on the dough, fold borders of the dough inwards so that they gently overlap one another. Then, brush the galette with egg wash and press almonds into the crust. Lightly sprinkle sugar onto the crust before baking. 5. Prepare the second and then bake for 40-45 minutes until golden brown. 6. Let cool and then add mint as garnish. It is best served as soon as possible, with a heaping scoop of vanilla ice cream. 24
bite | spring 2017
get: For the dough: • 4 cups sifted all-purpose flour • 1 tablespoon sugar • 3 teaspoons salt • 1 large egg, lightly beaten • 1 teaspoon white vinegar • 1/2 cup ice cold water • 1 1/2 cups cold, unsalted butter, sliced into pieces • 1/3 cup sliced almonds + extra sugar for sprinkling • Optional: 1 egg for egg-wash
For the filling: • 4 large peaches (or 12 small stone peaches), sliced into 1/4 inch • 2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger • 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch • 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar • 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger • 1/4 teaspoon salt • Optional: fresh mint for garnish Serves: 6-8 | Preparation Time: 1 h 20 min | Baking time: 45 min
ko r e a n Fried Chicken BY NIKITA COUTINHO & ALYCE OH PHOTOS BY PEGGY XU Looking to branch out from the fried chicken often found in American cuisine, first-year Alyce took matters into her own hands. Starting with a classic recipe, she began experimenting with different flavors and consistencies to reach her now time-honed, go-to recipe. Her Korean wings, fried twice to maximize crispiness and coated in a melange of Asian spices, make for the perfect appetizer or snack. These crisp, wellseasoned wings certainly give Harold’s a run for its money!
get: • 2 pounds of chicken wings • salt, pepper to taste • 1/4 cup potato starch • 1/4 cup flour • 2 eggs • Canola oil • 1 tablespoon of sesame oil • 3 cloves of minced garlic • 1 tsp grated ginger-3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar • 6-7 tablespoons red pepper paste • 5 tablespoons honey • Sliced green onions Serves: 3-5 | Preparation Time: 30 min | Cooking Time: 30 min
do: 1. Slice chicken wings into drumettes, wingettes, and tips – discard the latter. 2. Heat oil in a pot on low flame. 3. Season chicken with salt and pepper before coating in starch. 4. Mix eggs in a large bowl and add the chicken. 5. Add the flour and starch and mix until chicken is coated evenly. 6. Fry the chicken for 6-8 minutes, then remove from oil and let rest while oil comes back up to heat. 7. Place chicken pieces back in oil to fry for a second time for another 5-7 minutes, then remove from oil and rest them while the sauce is prepared. 8. Heat up a large pan on medium low heat and add a tablespoon of sesame oil. 9. Add in the minced garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant but not browned, then add soy sauce, rice vinegar, red pepper paste and honey, and stir to mix. 10. When the sauce starts to bubble, turn the heat to low and put all of the fried chicken into the sauce. 11. Mix to coat all the chicken in the sauce. 12. Garnish with sliced green onions and toasted sesame seeds. recipes 2525
HOT CROSS APPLE SCONES BY ANALIESE BATCHELOR + MOYO ABIONA PHOTOS BY SARAH LARSON
Light and fluffy with a zesty twist, these hot cross apple scones are a simple and satisfying baking experience. Enjoy the scones with a mug of tea while they are still warm from the oven, or savor as a
get:
do:
• 3 ½ cups self-raising flour • 1 tsp baking powder • 1 cup (cold) unsalted butter, cut into cubes • 1 tsp mixed spice • 3/4 cup fine-ground white sugar • 2 small apples, peeled and chopped small • 1 cup dried fruit mix, chopped small • Zest 1 orange, and 1 tbsp juice • 1 cup semi-skimmed milk • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1 egg • 3/4 cup plain flour, and some extra for dusting surfaces • 8 tbsp golden syrup
1. Preheat oven to 428 degrees Fahrenheit. 2. Sift together self-raising flour, baking powder, and 1/2 tsp salt. Knead butter until mix develops breadcrumb texture. Add mixed spice, sugar, apples, dried fruit, and orange zest. 3. Mix together milk, beaten egg, orange juice, and vanilla extract. Combine wet with dry ingredients. Stir quickly with a spatula until the dough is sticky and rough. 4. Generously dust the baking sheets, your hands, and dough with flour. Gently separate the dough into 16 scones (2 inches in diameter, 1 inch thick) on two
26 bite | spring 2017
scrumptious midday treat. Adapted from the classic English hot cross bun, this recipe for soft and sticky scones is delightful year-round. Inspired by Silvana Franco, Waitrose.
baking sheets. 5. Knead 3/4 plain flour and 1/4 warm water into a smooth dough. Pinch and roll into slim tubes, and use to form crosses over each of the scones. 6. Place both sheets in oven, and bake for 15 min, or until the scones have risen, are golden brown, and sound hollow when the bottom of the scone is tapped. 7. Use a spatula to spread golden syrup over scones while they cool. Serves: 16 | Preparation time: 20 min | Cooking Time: 15 min
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28 bite | spring 2017