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dear foodies & friends It is with happy hearts and loudly growling stomachs that we present to you the Spring 2019 issue of Bite Magazine! Maybe you need a recipe to tackle as procrastination during finals week, or maybe you are looking for some great restaurants to hit once you bid Kant and Nietzsche and Foucault farewell for the summer. Either way, Bite has you covered, and these 27 pages of culinary discoveries will surely leave your mouth watering. To cool down a little in the Chicago heat and humidity (it’s coming people), try Frío Gelato (7) for unique Argentine flavors on an Italian classic. Or, if you have an (unhealthy?) obsession with Stephanie Izard like we do, take a look at our review of Cabra (5), the Chicago goddess’ newest culinary venture. For a taste of the latest food craze and a great shot for your Instagram, try your hand at the decadence that is that cheesy, eggy, doughy Adjaruli Khachapuri (21) (we honestly think Georgian food is going to be the next sushi). As the temperature rises, don’t be afraid to heat things up with our Szechuan Chicken Nuggets (27). Or, if dried chilies just don’t break enough of a sweat for you, check out the Chicago Banya (10), where 200 degree saunas are accompanied by steaming bowls of borscht and dense potato dumplings. As you turn through these pages, we hope you enjoy reading it (and drooling over the pictures) as much as we enjoyed creating it! Enjoy your break, and whether you are staying in Chicago or traveling to far away destinations, don’t forget to tag us on Instagram (@uchicagobite) with all of your epicurean adventures this summer!
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bite | spring 2019
table of contents 4 cabra 6 peach’s at currency exchange cafe 7 frĂo gelato 8 tropikava 9 Galit 10 the chicago banya 14 pickling 16 miso 18 uchicago food survival guide 20 adjaruli khachapuri 21 szechuan chicken nuggets 22 crostata two ways 24 battenberg cake Editor-in-Chief paige resnick Managing editor Melanie wang creative director suhasni singh blog editor alyce oh photography director yarra elmasry communications director michelle zhou programming DIRECTOR michelle gao designers bonnie hu, elaine wan, emily her, evan xiang, grace bridges, jihana mendu, nora lin, QINGFENG CHAI, yolanda yu writers amanda wilson, ben miller, ed schmeltzer, elaine zhang, emily kang, joseph donahue, lily levine, moyo abiona, paige resnick, sarah peabody, seth markow, tori lawless, wendy zheng photographers alden Herrera, angela sha, brandon Zang, cam lam, grace peguese, giovanna DeCastro, julia Rose Camus, shreya Minama Reddy COVER PHOTO cam lam
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bite | winter 2019
REVIEW
CABRA
Industrial Chicago architecture is not usually synonymous with Peruvian coastal paradise. Yet, Cabra, the newest restaurant from Stephanie Izard (Girl & the Goat, Little Goat, Duck Duck Goat), feels neither gimmicky nor out of place atop the Hoxton Hotel in Fulton Market District. Lush vines canopy over the bar area, and sofas with patterned pillows further the casual vibe. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow for plenty of natural light and spectacular views of the city, which can be enjoyed with drinks – centered around South American wines, Midwestern craft beers, and twists on favorite Peruvian cocktails like the Pisco Sour – on the patio outside as well. Ceviche is central to Peruvian cuisine, and the first half of the menu is dedicated to cold, mostly seafood-based dishes, Izard’s classic bold flavors applied tactfully so as not to overwhelm the delicate fish. Hamachi Belly over an oyster emulsion is blow-torched and topped with pickled onions and hot peppers. Fresh Snapper ceviche rests in leche de tigre, an aromatic broth of herbs and ponzu, dotted with sweet potato puree and cubes of mangomarinated dragonfruit. For non-fish lovers, there’s a ceviche made with Duck and pickled mango. The hot section of the menu incorporates more red meat into its dishes. True to its name, Cabra – which means goat in Spanish – serves empanadas stuffed with braised and Smoked Goat, the pastry shell delightfully buttery and crisp. Other empanada flavors include Aji de Gallina, a traditional Peruvian chicken stew,
BY AMANDA WILSON PHOTOS BY JULIA ROSE CAMUS and Swiss Chard and Huevo, the egg yolk oozing from the pastry as it’s cut. Salchipapas are the ultimate drunk food: fries loaded with aioli, fried chorizo, and bits of spiced taro root chips, not unlike homemade Dorito crumbs. Jalea Mixto is a party of calamari, clams, and shrimp fried crisp alongside sweet-tart pickles. Perhaps the star of the hot plates, though, is the Chicharrón del Puerco – a pork shank so large that sharing is not optional. The fatty outer layer is rendered to perfection in imitation of a true pork rind chicharron, which once cut, reveals meat so tender it falls from the shank bone without the help of any utensil. A slew of pickled vegetables and sauces ranging from spicy aioli to yuzutomato salsa to huacatay, a Peruvian black mint sauce, accompany the meat, as well as sweet potato and fennel flatbread. Dessert leans toward fresh, fruity flavors, reminiscent of the Peruvian coastline. Homemade Soft Serve Swirl and Olive Lucuma are sundaes topped with tropical fruits and rhubarb- or olive-lime-flavored caramel. The Picarones stand out: sweet potato cake doughnuts hot from the fryer and dusted with spiced sugar sit in a thick pool of dulce de leche. Reservations are tricky to snag, but wellworth the wait: on the roof of the Hoxton Hotel, Cabra has quickly become a destination not only for outstanding, fresh flavors but also for viewing the sunset over another blazing Chicago summer.
>> NEIGHBORHOOD WEST LOOP >> PRICES $$$
>> DISHES TO TRY
HAMACHI BELLY CHICHARRÓN DEL PUERCO SMOKED GOAT EMPANADA
reviews
5
REVIEW
After a quick ride on the 55 bus on an unusually brisk Sunday morning, we’ve been transported into the warmer, cozier world of the newly-renovated Peach’s at Currency Exchange Cafe. Located right off of Washington Park, Peach’s serves southern comfort classics with a refreshing twist. We settled into our corner of a large community table, taking in the fresh, vaguely hipster decor. Large windows in the front of the cafe flood the dining space with sunlight, and tantalizing smells drift forward from the kitchen. I started my meal with one of Peach’s specialty coffees, a custom bean blend roasted with peaches to infuse the coffee with a subtle fruity taste. It was definitely a unique coffee experience for a purist like myself, but the peachy undertones were subtle and refreshing and I actually ended up really enjoying the blend. To start, we split a side of truffle fries with chipotle aioli. The fries were light and crisp, checking off all the basic requirements of a solid fry. The aioli shone on this blank canvas;its rich and creamy consistency had a strong truffle flavor that was well-complemented by a subtle kick of chipotle. I ordered the DLT, Peach’s take on a classic BLT, but with duck, bacon, and spinach. The sandwich was highly customizable, and I had mine with an over easy egg, mushrooms, and scallions. Duck bacon doesn’t get quite as crispy as pork bacon and is texturally quite similar to thick-cut Canadian bacon. It added a 6
bite | spring 2019
smokiness that worked well with the fatty egg and stands out from the veggies. The sourdough bread was pleasantly tangy, balancing the dish’s flavors and textures. Shreya, our photographer, enjoyed the Yard Bird and Sweet Toast. Perfectly crispy, slightly salty fried chicken wings balance out the sugary, peach bourbon french toast. The toast was a touch dry, making the cinnamon peach compote a necessary element to this dish. The best bites had a bit of everything–crispy chicken, sweet toast, and runny compote. A nod to chicken and waffles, the Yard Bird and Sweet Toast is an indulgent brunch item that marries sweet and savory well. Finally, designer Evan tried the star dish: Award Winning #1 Selling Shrimp and Cheese Grits. With a name like that, our expectations were high, and we were not disappointed. Velvety cheese grits mixed with a flavorful garlic cream sauce, crispy pork bacon, mushrooms, scallions, and naturally sweet shrimp meld together in this warm and supremely comforting dish. The sauce had a slight kick that kept the cheesy grits from feeling too heavy. These grits definitely lived up to their name. All in all, Peach’s is a treat. Far enough off campus to feel like a retreat, cozy and friendly interior, and fabulous food at an affordable price, Peach’s is the perfect easy escape from Hyde Park. The service is friendly but slow, so give yourself enough time to settle in and relax. Grab some friends that are willing to share, and you’re sure to have a great time.
PEACH’S AT CURRENCY EXCHANGE CAFE
BY EMILY KANG PHOTOS BY SHREYA MINAMA REDDY >> NEIGHBORHOOD WASHINGTON PARK >> PRICES $
>> DISHES TO TRY
AWARD WINNING SHRIMP AND CHEESE GRITS
REVIEW
FRÍO GELATO BY BEN MILLER PHOTOS BY CAM LAM
>> NEIGHBORHOOD LAKEVIEW
>> PRICES
$
>> FLAVORS TO TRY TRAMONTANA SAMBAYÓN
The first Italian immigrants to Argentina arrived in the mid-19th century, leaving the crowded Old World for a promise of land and opportunity in South America. Over the succeeding decades, millions more followed suit, bringing centuries of Italian heritage with them south of the Equator. Today over 60% of Argentina’s population has some Italian ancestry, creating a unique blend of language, culture, and cuisine. Nowhere in Chicago can this ethnic fusion be more enjoyably experienced than at Frío Gelato. Housed in an unassuming storefront in Lakeview, a five-minute walk from Wrigley Field, Frío offers classic Italian gelato elevated with the flavors and energy of Argentine dessert. The result is a satisfying springtime treat that doubles as an exploration of Argentina’s unique melting pot of traditions and tastes. Frío offers dozens of different flavors of gelato and sorbet, and the easiest way to sample them is by ordering a flight: one scoop of four different flavors for $6.50. While the creamery offers solid renditions of classic gelato varieties, it’s worth prioritizing Frío’s more distinctive and culturally relevant creations. The star of the show is tramontana, a blend of dulce de leche, vanilla, and shaved chocolate created in the 1980s by Buenos Aires’s iconic Freddo gelato chain. Frío’s tramontana is both light and creamy, pairing
rich caramel tones with the delightful popping of tiny chocolate pieces sprinkled throughout. Another highlight is the sambayón, a gelato version of the classic Italian dessert of custard whipped with sweet wine. Pairing a rich, eggy base with a vaguely boozy tang, the flavor creates an electric blend of comfort and excitement not found in any typical ice cream shop. The queso y miel flavor is similarly uplifting, forming an eminently smooth mixture of tart cheese and sweet, calming honey. For those looking for nondairy options, Frío also boasts a suite of sorbets, including a particularly fresh, layered, and palate-cleansing mango. Frío also excels when it steps beyond standalone gelato toward even more inventive and cross-cultural creations. Take Frío’s alfalatos: a sandwich of traditionally-flavored gelato placed between two alfajores, a variety of Argentine cornmeal cookie. It’s as satisfying as any ice cream sandwich, but with an added joyful crunch. If you’re looking for a caffeine kick, be sure to check out the ahogado, a shot of espresso poured over your choice of gelato. By leveraging the blended traditions of Argentina’s Italian population, Frío Gelato explores cultures and flavors in a way few dessert places can. As the weather warms up, go and experience the tasty thrills that this unique slice of South America offers. reviews
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REVIEW
TROPIKAVA
BY LILY LEVINE // PHOTOS BY GIOVANNA DECASTRO
>> NEIGHBORHOOD WICKER PARK >> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
MOSCOW MUESLI BERRY ACAI BOWL [1] Kandola, Aaron. “Kava Kava: Benefits and Safety Concerns.” Medical News Today. Accessed April 28, 2019. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com. [2] Squarespace. “Menu.” Tropikava: Kava Kafe & Juice Bar. Accessed April 28, 2019. https://www.tropikava.com/menu.
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Hidden away in a quiet, residential side-street of Wicker Park lies a tropical treasure—Tropikava Kafe and Juice Bar. This is Chicago’s first ever Kava café, which was opened in 2016 by Jeff Ramsey, and it may just be your new favorite addition to drinks and smoothies. Kava comes from the root of the Kava plant, which originated in the South Pacific. The drink, which is mixed with water and coconut milk, has been used in ceremonies and rituals for hundreds of years in places such as Fiji, Tonga, Hawaii, and Vanuatu. The benefits are numerous: it has been cited to help with anti-anxiety and stress reduction, to promote sleep, aid with mental clarity, and create a psychoactive and euphoric feeling[1]. One of the biggest attractions, however, is its ability to induce a buzz without the booze or subsequent hangover. We arrived around 3pm in the afternoon due to the café’s unusual hours—be sure to check the website before going! The interior was decorated with tropical themed décor including wooden tables, plush wicker chairs and couches, bamboo walls with images of the beach, and an abundance of hanging plants. These decorations, combined with the small size of the café, made the environment casual, cozy, and vibrant. We were instantly greeted by our server, who explained the effects of Kava, the four strains they carry, and the reverse tolerance effect. This means the consumer might not feel anything the first time he or she tries it, but the body’s reaction will increase the more times Kava is consumed. She then gave us small servings of the house brew containing almonds, cinnamon, and agave;
it was slightly bitter and mouth-numbing, but overall relatively flavorless. However, this was only meant to be the “appetizer” to our main courses: the Berry Acai Bowl and the Moscow Muesli smoothie. We chose to add the Vanuatuan Kava to both of our orders, which is said to provide a laid back yet “uplifting euphoric energy[2].” The Berry Acai Bowl was made right before our eyes and contained acai, strawberry, raspberry, banana, coconut water, and granola. The acai tasted rich, but was significantly thinner than most conventional acai bases. The granola offered a contrasting crunch, and the pieces of strawberry and banana were ripe, contributing a pleasant freshness. The Moscow Muesli smoothie contained strawberry, raspberry, muesli, and almond milk. Just like the acai bowl, it was not as thick as smoothies I had previously drank, but it was nonetheless satisfyingly sweet with a slightly nutty, oat flavor from the muesli. Both meals were bright in color and aesthetically prepared, and the fruity, tropical flavors completely concealed the taste of the kava. Overall, Tropikava offers a fun and playful environment for your first Kava adventure. While the variety of foods they offer are typical for a juice shop and are not exceptional in taste by any means, the added boost of Kava makes the experience unique and the lengthier trip worth it. Neither of us perceived any considerable sideeffects, but the idea of returning a few more times to try again is an enticing and likely one.
A short walk away from the Fullerton station in Lincoln Park, Galit - which opened its doors a month ago - offers a fresh taste of Middle Eastern and Israeli cuisines. Its humble exterior - a block of white brick tucked between Biograph Theater and a closed Fiesta Mexicana belies the sunlit tables, bustling waitstaff, and lively chatter within. I arrived for an early dinner and sat at the kitchen table, watching chefs slice foie torchon and greet familiar guests. The waiter recommended either hummus or salatim alongside a couple of small dishes to make an entree, so I ordered the trumpet mushrooms hummus, falafel, and shakshukah. Hummus is one of my favorite bean products (of which there are many), and Galit’s did not disappoint. Heaps of collard greens and gribenes added a fun crunch and a splash of briny flavor, while the trumpet mushrooms were plump and juicy. The hummus itself was smoother and creamier than anything I’d tasted before. It paired perfectly with a soft, pillowy pita that released a puff of hot air as it tore easily in my hands. I was excited to try Galit’s falafel (another beloved bean product!), which was described as including “funky mango.” Disappointingly, I could detect no trace of mango besides the tiny yellow chunks visible in the falafel’s bright green interior. The falafel was crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, but not as moist or
flavorful as I had hoped. The thick, savory tang of warm labneh usurped the dish, while the Persian pickled turnips offered a dash of color and not much more. In my opinion, the falafel is decent but underwhelming, and falls short of other more impactful dishes. My first taste of shakshukah - eggs, tomato sauce, and happiness in a pan was long overdue, but worth the wait. Galit’s shakshukah was steaming and hearty, fortified with roasted vegetables and sprinkled with a generous handful of fresh herbs. As I cut the poached egg with the edge of my spoon, the sunny yolk oozed delightfully into the surrounding sauce, perfect for mopping up with a piece of warm laffa, smeared with olive oil. The heavy pan of shakshukah was a lot to handle after the hummus and falafel, but would make a simple and satisfying meal to share on a cold night. One look at Galit’s menu will tell you that they take a thoughtful and creative approach to Middle Eastern and Israeli cuisine. Even though I encountered some disappointments, my visit to Galit was, in general, a fulfilling experience of discovery. The prices are a stretch for the college student’s budget, but it’s an energizing place to share an indulgent meal with friends or invite family for a holiday weekend. My advice: come for the fresh flavors, stay for the toasty bread, and return if you’re looking to splurge.
REVIEW
GALIT
BY ELAINE ZHANG PHOTOS BY ELAINE ZHANG >> NEIGHBORHOOD LINCOLN PARK >> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
TRUMPET MUSHROOM HUMMUS SHAKSHUKAH reviews
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the
Chicago Banya: more than just a steam By Paige Resnick Photos by Alden Herrera
It’s 10:30 am on a Wednesday and the man at the bar downs a shot of vodka, slamming the empty glass onto the counter and growling an order at the waitress in Russian. She pours him another. He is wearing nothing but a felt bucket hat embroidered with the sentiment “I ♡ баня,” or “I love the bathhouse,” and a white, semi-sheer robe which hangs loosely over his protruding stomach, distended from years of similar drinking. His skin is a brilliant magenta hue from sitting in the heat of the sauna he had enjoyed only five minutes before, contrasting with the damp tuft of white hair attempting to cover his mostly bald head. His rubber flip-flopped feet swing back and forth, avoiding the floor from his perch on the cracked wooden bar stool. He nods his head to the Russian techno music coming through the speakers, mouthing the words. “Jump in the Line” by Harry Belafonte plays next, whose lyrics the man also seems to know, followed by an electronic remix of “Jingle Bells,” though it is the middle of April. The smells of sharp chlorine and sweet borscht mingle in the air. 10
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In the sauna, gossip, swearing, and the potato reign supreme.
Red Square Russian and Turkish Baths has sat on West Division Street in the Wicker Park neighborhood of Chicago since 1906. Originally under the name Division Street Russian and Turkish Baths, this traditional Russian banya, or bathhouse, has served as a steamy haven for Russian immigrants and Chicago natives alike, complete with a full bar, restaurant, lounge, sauna, spa treatments, and tanning booths. Over the years, the Red Square has changed owners, from Russians to Americans to Italians, but now is back in the hands of the Russians, and rightfully so, as Andrei, co-owner of the famed spa, believes. Andrei moved to Chicago from Russia about five years ago, following his daughter who was pursuing her career as a champion swimmer and the almost 150,000 other Russians in the Chicagoland area. Even with the large population of Russian immigrants, there is no Russian neighborhood proper in Chicago, so the bathhouse provides a familiarity for those nostalgic for home and an excitement for those looking to experience a new culture, maintaining the
traditions that have prevailed in Russia for over a thousand years. As the morning progresses, more file into the bathhouse; two tall, young Russians sporting long beards and White Sox ball caps, a short, portly man carrying 20 bagged loaves of dark russian rye bread grasped in each fist, a group of six Americans in their mid-30’s, arguing about last night’s NBA playoff game and who of them would be most likely to win a political campaign. According to the receptionist, Al Capone frequented the bathhouse with his crew, former Chicago Blackhawks player Chris Chelios comes every Wednesday for a dry steam, and even Dennis Rodman has made an appearance. These patrons come to the bathhouse for the same thing; relaxation, social life, and tradition. A space free from the pressures, insecurities, and avocado toasts of the American lifestyle. In the sauna, gossip, swearing, and the potato reign supreme. features
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Attendants in black shorts, t-shirts, and those same signature hats give a plaitza, whipping willing bathers with bundles of oak leaves and branches called veniki, while the other, more timid (i.e. American), bathers watch this masochistic ritual with nervous amusement. Staff and patrons alike yell at each other in rapid Russian, and what seems like an argument or a threat often ends in raucous laughter. When fainting seems imminent, patrons jump into the cerulean-tiled cold pool just outside, grab a white robe, and enjoy a drink in the lounge where Animal Planet plays a show about killer lizards on a flat screen. Gradually, as they begin to cool down, they head upstairs to the restaurant. In the main dining room, curtained televisions mimic the windows of a 19th century train car, screening passing landscapes of St. Petersburg. A mirrored bar, reflecting the red, pruney skin of robed patrons, is filled with colorful bottles of alcohol, many recognizable, but others with Cyrillic lettering seem to be the most popular. Shiny copper mugs for Moscow Mules sit next to black cast-iron tea pots, and baskets of dark, dense, and fragrant Russian rye bread, await inevitable snatching by wrinkled fingers. While the staff suggests traditional Czar Nicholas II black tea with lemon (as the Amazon product description proudly asserts, it “evokes the bygone era of leisurely afternoons in the Russian countryside”), most drink hefty shots of Russian Standard vodka or tall glasses of Baltika 3 beer,
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ignoring the threat of dehydration and heat exhaustion that large white signs warn of in both English and Russian. A massive mural depicting a scene of Moscow spans an entire wall, a perfect backdrop for the dozen or so dark wooden tables and high tops. Victor, a toothless homeless man sporting a Chicago Bulls hat, reclines at one of these tables, tipping the chair precariously onto its back legs as he sips a mug of tea as payment for him having swept the front stoop. With his lack of teeth, Victor is hard to understand, and the limited English and thick Russian accents of the employees make them equally difficult to communicate with. Yet everyone seems to get along, joking with each other despite the language barrier. “You need to give me the key and I’ll be the owner,” Victor quips, showing off his pink gums with a wide smile as everyone laughs. The Russian patrons love to be transported back to their old lifestyles, gabbing in Russian with the waitresses and arguing about the soccer games on TV, while the American patrons love to be transported to a new one, flirting with the waitresses and taking photographs of themselves in the robes and hats to post on Instagram. #MotherRussia #authentic. Andrei, the owner, relies on the few English-speaking staff members to communicate with the Americans, watching every non-Russian customer with narrow-eyed suspicion from his own table in the corner, hands resting on his belly.
After a few drinks (with many more to come), the food is ordered. White napkins are placed on laps to protect the white robes from impending spills when a passionate fist shakes the table midargument, mid-bite. First, a bowl of hot borscht arrives, the shocking red broth colored by beets, packed with onions, carrots, potatoes, and sweet peppers, the top dotted by a drop of sour cream. The steam from the soup mimics the steam in the sauna, but the diners don’t seem to mind, dunking their dark rye bread deep into the hot liquid. Next is a plate of pan fried potatoes, deeply golden and studded with minced garlic and mushrooms. The smell that wafts up from the pile of starch draws wandering eyes, promising salty, greasy warmth. A wooden board laden with salo, back fat cured in salt and eaten raw, sliced thinly and liberally sprinkled with pepper, sits on the side. The creamy, salty salo is dunked in a spicy mustard and eaten on more slices of the rye bread, typically only ordered by the Russian and Ukrainian customers and the occasional adventurous American. After this very quick break from the potatoes, potato vareniki are quickly added to the spread; warm, dense dumplings topped with fried onions and dunked in generous cups of sour cream. And of course, more vodka. The shot glasses are almost twice the size of typical American ones, but grins instead of winces follow each swallow. After finishing, many belch and swear as they relax at the table in their robes, full stomachs blissfully unencumbered by leather belts and tight waistbands.
For many of the Russian immigrant clients, this is one of the only places in the city where they can be reminded of their grandmothers’ kitchens, where they can enjoy an authentic meal and socialize with friends as if they were in Moscow. While immigrants make up 20.7% of the population of Chicago, they represent 36.4% of the entrepreneurs in the city, according to a 2018 report by the mayor’s office, building businesses like Andrei’s to cater to a foreign-born clientele with a longing for home. However, the immigrant population in Chicago is shrinking as they are being pushed out by U.S.-born residents, threatening the cultural centers that maintain these traditions. Now there are only two banyas left in the city, down from about a dozen in the mid-1900’s. For the people who frequent the banya, the thought of no longer having this community staple is incomprehensible. A group of 15 regulars in their 60’s and 70’s come every Sunday, waiting at the door until they can be let in at 7:00am, roaring drunk by 9:00am, and not leaving until 6:00pm. They have been coming for 20 years. “When you go downstairs when they are here, it’s a disaster,” Tanya admits, shaking her head. Places like Red Square exist to create an experience like the ones that were left behind. “When I’m here, I feel like I’m at home,” she says, munching on the always-handy rye bread as an upbeat Russian folk tune plays through the speakers. In the eyes of the patrons, the employees, and the community, the banya is not just a place for a steam. It is a force of cultural preservation.
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pickling
by Joseph Donahue photos by Giovanna Decastro illustrations by Qingfeng Chai
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bite | spring 2019
When I moved into my first apartment this year, I was excited to have a full kitchen at my disposal again. Before college, I cooked often and enjoyed seeing what I could whip up with friends and family. When classes started this year, I realized that I hadn’t factored in the amount of time cooking can take sometimes–maybe all of my older friends wouldn’t stop talking about meal prep for a reason. I was still eating, but less healthily than I wanted to: fruits and vegetables weren’t making up a large enough part of my meals.
One night, going through Stephanie Izard’s blog, I came across a recipe that she posted for pickled kumquats. There’s a limit to how many kumquats I really want to eat, but it sparked an idea: pickling! The idea lingered, but over the next couple of months it resurfaced as I ordered the mixed pickled vegetables at Eataly in Chicago and also received a gemlike jar filled with precious and crunchy carrot slices at Cure, in New Orleans. Upon returning home, I bought some tiny jars and got down to business.
The basic pickling setup involves: a pot, water, vinegar, mason jars and lids, food, and salt. The jars need to be sterile so that you don’t end up with microorganisms hitching a ride on your food. A solution of vinegar, water, and salt is poured over prepared fruit and vegetables, then the jars are sealed and left to their own devices for a couple of days.
A huge variety of fruits and vegetables can be pickled or preserved; it is fascinating to experience the transformed flavor profile of formerly familiar foods. Brussels sprouts lose their pungency, which is replaced by delicate greenish flavor. Pickled beets taste wonderful with a dash of sesame oil. Preserved lemons can be put in so many dishes–hummus, roast chicken, salad dressings–that I keep a jar in my fridge at all times. Cauliflower, broccoli, cucumbers, carrots, and green beans are all wonderful to keep around in those tiny sparkling jars; when I want to make a quick cheese board I pop open a couple of different jars, adding a totally different mix of texture and flavor to the experience.
On a practical note, learning to preserve helped to solve my problem of not eating in a way that would make Michelle Obama happy: by doing one big batch at a time, all the prep time that would normally be spread over individual meals can be concentrated into one session. I get colorful food, vitamins, and convenience; additionally, there is much less worrying about whether I’ve eaten food before it starts to turn. It’s exciting to discover new ways of tasting familiar ingredients and to try new techniques; pickling is cheap, convenient, and tasty too!
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M I S O
Miso is a relatively healthy umami bomb that can be added to just about any savoury dish for a burst of flavour. Celebrate the start of spring with these two Japanese-inspired recipes and step into the wonderful world of cooking with miso paste!
miso-ginger shishito peppers ingredients • • 1 tbsp White Miso Paste • 1 tbsp of Ground Ginger • 2 tbsp of Water
• Coarse or flakey salt • 3 cups of Shishito Peppers (or Padrón)
directions • 1. Mix white miso paste, water, and ground ginger into a bowl. 2. Pour a generous amount of olive oil into a pan and put pan on high heat. 3. Once the oil is rippling, shift the heat to medium-high and throw the peppers into the pan. If the oil splattering is overwhelming, cover with a lid. 4. Occasionally turn the peppers until they
by sarah peabody photos by angela sha
blister into a dark brown colour on most of the sides. 5. When most of the peppers are blistered and brown, throw the sauce mixture into the pan and quickly mix the peppers around for less than a minute. 6. Plate the peppers and sprinkle some salt to taste.
ingredients • • 8 chicken thighs (with skins and bones) • 3 tbsp softened butter • 1/3 cup white miso paste • ¼ cup of water • 10 garlic cloves, unpeeled and smashed
• 1 tbsp rice wine (mirin) • Black pepper, to taste • 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds, for garnish • Dried Chili flakes • Fish Sauce, to taste
directions • 1. Combine miso paste, water, chili flakes, fish sauce, and mirin into a bowl and mix until everything is fully incorporated. Taste to see if you like the balance of flavours and make tweaks to the ratios if needed. 2. Add the chicken thighs to the bowl and let them marinate for at least 20 minutes. Make sure to massage the marinade into the thighs. 3. Heat pan to high and coat pan with olive oil. Once the oil has adjusted to the high heat, throw in the 10 garlic cloves into the hot oil. Stir the cloves around until they gain a golden brown colour. 4. Once the garlic cloves are done, add enough chicken thighs (on the underside) into the pan that will cover the base of the pan and pour enough of the marinade to submerge 1/3 of the thighs. Cover the pan and cook at medium heat.
5. Once the visible side is a light brown, turn the chicken thighs over and onto the skin side. Place the lid back onto the pan but watch the marinade and the chicken carefully. If the chicken still needs to be cooked but the marinade is browning and reducing quickly, add more from the bowl. 6. After 7-10 minutes of the chicken cooking on the skin side, flip it once again and carefully cut the underside of one of the thighs to see if it has fully cooked through. If not, flip it back onto the skin side and cook the chicken without the lid on the pan. 7. When finally cooked, plate the chicken and add sesame seeds, ground pepper, and scallions as a garnish.
miso-butter chicken with garlic
UCHICAGO FOODIE SURVIVAL GUIDE 18
bite | spring 2019
My time at UChicago is almost over (woohoo!) and there are many things I’d like to tell my firstyear self: enjoy being with your friends; don’t take everything so seriously; you’re good enough to be here. And the most important piece of advice: food can solve all your problems! Ok, maybe not all of them, but food is central to physical and mental well-being, and sharing a meal is one of the best ways to have a good time with people you care about. Here’s a (hopefully) easy way to approach UChicago’s difficult weeks with a foodfirst attitude.
by moyo abiona photos by brandon zang You’ve just gotten back to campus and you can’t wait to see all your friends again. You’re getting a feel for your new classes and finding a routine that works for you. It might be a bit overwhelming at first, so take time to unwind with friends over some good food. Why not get dressed up, put on some good music, and have
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Week 4-10 You’re in full Life of the Grind™ season with midterms and papers due seemingly everyday. You’ve pulled allnighters in just about every library and don’t even remember what your room looks like. It’s easy to become so bogged down in work that you forget to do basic things, like eat. Having a stash of easy-to-grab food handy can help you stay fed while you juggle a million responsibilities.
a potluck? What should you bring? Creamy, decadent Baked Bacon Mac and Cheese with a crunchy topping. I like to season my cheese sauce with garlic, black pepper, and paprika, and crushed up garlic croutons for the topping. It’s a relatively easy dish to make and a surefire crowd-pleaser.
My go-to, especially during the winter, is slow-cooker chili. You can basically put whatever you want in it (my staples are beans, corn, and spicy chorizo), buy a ready-made spice mix at the grocery store, and cook it while you go about your busy day. If you don’t have a slow cooker, just let the chili simmer on the stove over medium-low heat, and you’ll have a filling, warming meal in no time.
You’ve just turned in the last of your finals and you breathe a huge sigh of relief. Another quarter down and you deserve to treat yourself. Fruity, citrusy desserts and drinks always hit the spot for me, especially during spring. For a semi-guilt-free snack, try the simplest almond flour lemon cookies made with just butter, sugar, lemon zest, almond flour, and a pinch of salt. Let the dough firm up in the fridge and then bake. To wash these cookies down, try a refreshing spiked raspberry lemonade! I hope the quarters ahead are full of laughter, friendship, and of course, awesome food! I got through UCahicago and you will too, one bite at a time.
Week 11
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ADJARULI KHACHAPURI BY WENDY ZHENG PHOTOS BY CAM LAM makes
2 large khachapuri feeds 4-6
GET
For dough 1 ½ cups all purpose flour 3/4 tsp instant yeast 3/4 tsp salt ½ tsp sugar 1 tbsp olive oil 2/3 cup warm water For filling 8 oz low moisture mozzarella 5 oz feta 3 cloves of garlic, minced Black pepper 2 eggs 2 tbsp butter
20 bite | spring 2019
Out of the four hundred users I follow on Instagram, two hundred of them post exclusively food pictures. All of these food “influencers” have one thing in common: posts featuring runny yolks and cheese pulls. Adjaruli Khachapuri, a regional rendition of a popular cheese bread from Georgia, combines these photogenic attributes with fluffy bread and excessive amounts of butter to create an indulgent treat that manages to taste even better than it looks. The combination of sharp feta, melty mozzarella, the rich egg yolk, and my nontraditional add in of garlic creates a mini pool of melted cheese inside the boat shaped bread–the ideal vehicle for tearing off the excess crust and having your own personal cheese party. Since the closest affordable location to get this delicacy in Chicago is a two hour CTA ride away from campus, take the time to bust out this bread for your next gathering and impress all your guests with a simple yet decadent showstopper.
DO
Dough Mix together flour, yeast, salt, sugar, olive oil, and warm water until it forms a dough. If the dough is too sticky, add more flour as needed. Knead the dough for five to ten minutes until elastic and smooth. Cover and allow to rise until it doubles in size–between 60 to 90 minutes. Shaping and baking 1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. 2. Grate mozzarella and mix it with feta, minced garlic, and black pepper. 3. Punch down the dough to remove any excess air then divide risen dough into two. 4. Working with one half of the dough at a time, roll into a large circular shape around 1/8 inch thick. 5. Take a small handful of cheese and place it ½ inch in from the border of the dough circle. 6. Fold the edges of the dough over the cheese to create almost a stuffed crust. Once folded, grab the ends of the dough and twist so that they stay closed. Then fill the cavity of the bread with the rest of the cheese divided in two. Don’t worry if some of the cheese ends up on the sides of the bread. This will result in really nice browning on the final product! 7. Place the khachapuri on a sheet pan and let them rise for 15-20 minutes. 8. Brush edges of the khachapuri with olive oil and bake for 13-15 minutes until cheese is melted and dough is slightly golden brown. Take the khachapuri out of the oven and carefully crack one egg into the center of each boat. Return the khachapuri into the oven for an additional 3-4 minutes or just until the white of the egg has set. 9. Top each baked khachapuri with a tablespoon of butter and a sprinkling of smoked paprika. Serve them warm. I highly recommend mixing the cheese in the center with the egg and dipping torn off pieces of the crust into the mixture.
BY SETH MARKOW PHOTOS BY ANGELA SHA
prep 35 minutes cook 80 minutes makes 4-5 servings
GET 2 lbs boneless chicken thighs, cut into small, irregular pieces 1/3 cup soy sauce 1 tbsp sugar 2 egg whites 1 cup cornstarch 1/3 cup Szechuan peppercorns, separated 1 cup frying oil (canola or peanut) 1 1/2 tbsp sesame oil, separated 4 cloves garlic, sliced 1 onion cut into strips 1 inch ginger, peeled, grated 1 1/2 cups dried hot peppers, roughly chopped 2 scallions, roughly chopped
SZECHUAN CHICKEN NUGGETS
Anytime I go out for Szechuan food, one of the must-haves is always the popcorn chicken. There’s something especially rewarding about finding a nugget of crunchy, spicy goodness amid the sea of hot peppers that surrounds the actual meat. It makes a great snack by itself, or a full meal if eaten with rice. Be warned though, making this will leave your kitchen a mess of bowls, cutting boards, knives, and various kitchen machinery. But, it’s well worth it!
DO 1. In a bowl, mix soy sauce, sugar, and egg whites until the sugar dissolves. Marinate the chicken in bowl for 10 minutes. 2. Heat ¼ cup Szechuan peppercorns in a tsp of sesame oil on low heat for 1-2 minutes. Blend together peppercorns and cornstarch in a food processor or blender until you get a finely ground mixture. Place this in a wide, low bowl. 3. Drain the chicken from the marinade, then in small batches, toss it in the cornstarch mixture to batter. Set aside. 4. Using a deep fryer, dutch oven, or large cast-iron skillet, place your frying oil on medium-high heat until ready. (To test if it’s hot enough, drop a little batter in the oil and see if it bubbles immediately). Use tongs to place the chicken in the oil in large batches. Fry for 3-5 minutes (or until well-browned on all sides) then use a slotted spoon to remove the chicken and rest on a wire baking rack. 5. Heat remaining sesame oil in a wok or large frying pan. Sauteé onions and garlic until the onions turn translucent. Add hot peppers, ginger, and remaining peppercorns, cook for 2-3 minutes, then add the chicken. Mix the chicken and peppers well, making sure to keep the peppers and peppercorns on the bottom from burning. Cook for 3-5 minutes. 6. Remove from heat and top with scallions. recipes
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CROSTATA TWO WAYS Warm weather is finally upon us, and what better way to celebrate than with a rustic crostata showing off your favorite in-season fruits? Crostata (French variant: galette) is simply pastry dough folded around a filling of your choice. They’re easy to make once you get the hang of working with the dough, and more importantly, the outcome is always impressive and charming. The beauty of any crostata recipe is its versatility; below are two different recipes that use the same base dough, but don’t be afraid to get creative and modify the fillings. You could, for example, substitute strawberries and blueberries for any fresh fruit on hand, or just fill with your favorite jam. If you don’t have a lot of experience with pastry dough, this pie dough is a perfect
introduction. The recipe makes enough dough for two crostatas but can easily be scaled up or down per personal preference. You can make the dough in advance and let it rest in the fridge for 2-3 days before use. Just make sure the dough is slightly cooler than room temperature before you start rolling it out. Also, don’t sweat it if you get to the folding step and it starts to look a bit messy; the great thing about crostatas is that the messier they are, the cooler they look once they bake. If you have any extra bits of dough, I’d recommend sprinkling them generously with cinnamon and sugar and placing them on the baking sheet beside the crostata. Take out these crusts about 10-15 minutes into the baking period as a yummy reward for all of that dough-rolling
For dough 2 cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup whole-wheat flour 2 tsp salt 2 tbsp white sugar 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cubed and at room temperature 1 egg beaten (for egg wash)
2 crostatas, about 16 servings prep 2 hours, divided cook 40-45 min
For Summer Fruit Crostata 2 cups strawberries, hulled and halved 1/2 cup blueberries ¼ cup white sugar, more for sprinkling Zest and juice of half a lemon Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, for garnish For Fig, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Crostata 1 cup dried mission figs, destemmed and halved ¼ cup dry sherry 1 yellow onion, thinly sliced 5 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed 3 tbsp olive oil 2 sprigs rosemary Black pepper, to taste ¼ cup fig jam (optional) ¼ cup goat cheese Chives, finely chopped, for garnish
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bite | spring 2019
PHOTOS BY GRACE PEGUESE
you just accomplished. By the way, if you don’t have a rolling pin, the bottle of sherry used in the second recipe (or any bottle of wine) works just as well! Coincidentally, a small glass of sherry is the perfect aperitif when you’re waiting for the crostata to bake and cool. Crostatas are a great dessert to bring to a gathering or just enjoy with a group of friends. But as tempted as you may be, don’t cut into the crostata right after it comes out of the oven. It needs to cool and the filling must set to make for nice slicing. You can, however, garnish and take pictures for your Instagram story during the cooling period (in fact, I’d recommend it). Once the wait is over, enjoy the “fruits” of your labor with your friends. Buon appetito!
GET
makes
BY TORI LAWLESS
DO Dough
This step should be done at least 2 hours in advance of assembly or up to 3 days in advance. 1. Whisk flours, salt, and sugar together in large mixing bowl. Add butter cubes, stopping halfway through to coat the butter in flour mixture with your hands to prevent sticking. 2. Using a knife in each hand or a pastry cutter, cut butter into flour mixture until pieces are pea-sized. 3. Add ¼ cup ice-cold water and incorporate with hands until dough begins to stick together when squeezed. You may need to add 1-2 tbsp more water depending on your dough. 4. Turn dough out onto floured surface (a large cutting board works just fine here), then push together and press into ¾ inch thick square. Quarter with knife, then stack quarters on top of each other and press into ¾ inch thick disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill until firm, about 2 hours.
Summer Fruit Crostata 1. Preheat oven to 400° F. Line sided sheet pan with parchment paper (leaking will occur whilst baking, so sides are important here). 2. Remove chilled dough from fridge. Dough should be slightly cooler than room temperature by the time you start rolling. 3. Toss together strawberries, blueberries, sugar, and lemon zest and juice in medium bowl. Let mixture rest while you roll out the dough. 4. On a heavily floured surface, halve dough disk. You can save the other half for a different crostata, or use it for the crostata detailed in Recipe 2 if ambitious. 5. Press dough into a circular disk, then sprinkle flour on top. Using rolling pin, roll out dough into 14 inch circle (~ 1/8 inch thick), rotating dough 90° every few rolls and adding flour underneath and on top of dough when needed. 6. Transfer rolled out dough onto sheet pan. There are two ways to accomplish this: 1. Roll dough onto rolling pin, then roll back out onto pan or 2. Place pan next to rolled dough, then gently slide hands under dough and slide/lift onto pan. If you opt for 2, you can also grab a friend for an extra set of hands. 7. Pile fruit mixture into center of dough, leaving a 2 inch border around edges. Leave any leftover fruit juices in the bottom of the bowl to prevent a soggy crostata. 8. Fold dough up and onto filling, moving clockwise to fold up each subsequent side of dough for a tidy pattern. 9. Brush top of dough with egg wash, then sprinkle dough and filling generously with sugar. 10. Bake until crust is deeply browned, about 40-50 minutes. Let cool for at least 10-15 minutes. 11. Cut crostata into 8 slices, and serve slices topped with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream if desired.
Fig, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Crostata 1. Preheat oven to 400° F. Line sheet pan with parchment paper. 2. Heat olive oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, rosemary sprigs and cook until soft and golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. 3. While onions are cooking, add sherry and figs to small pot or saucepan. Cook mixture over medium-high heat until all of the liquid had evaporated and figs are plumped. Set aside to cool. 4. Season onions with salt and pepper to taste, then remove rosemary sprigs. Set aside to cool. 5. Prepare dough following Steps 4-6 of the Summer Fruit Crostata variant. 6. If using, spread fig jam thinly over surface of dough, leaving 2 inch border around edges. 7. Crumble goat cheese sparsely over jam. Spread onion mixture sparsely over/between goat cheese. Arrange figs over onions. 8. Fold dough up and onto filling, moving clockwise to fold up each subsequent side of dough for a tidy pattern. 9. Brush top of dough generously with egg wash. 10. Bake until crust is deeply browned, about 40-50 minutes. Let cool for at least 10-15 minutes. 11. Garnish top with chopped chives, then cut crostata into 8 slices and serve. recipes
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BY ED SCHMELTZER
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PHOTOS BY GRACE PEGUESE
BATTENBERG CAKE “’My name is Ozymandias, king of kings; Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!’ Nothing beside remains.” Some of you may feel that comparing my difficulties in baking a cake to the hubris of the eponymous Ozymandias—Pharaoh of Egypt and God-King of hundreds of thousands—featured in Shelley’s poem is an overdramatization. How could you say that? *Cue dramatic gasping*. I am completely justified in the existential black hole that this has sent me down. Alright, I admit that perhaps I am exaggerating just a tad. A tad, I say. Anyways, the Battenberg Cake was definitely a challenge for me. The concept itself is already a relatively advanced one for someone like me (who is generally more well-versed in cooking than baking). A staple of every British childhood party, the Battenberg cake is a cake made up of four separate fingers of sponge—two traditionally yellow and two traditionally pink—all bound with jam and covered in a layer of marzipan. This is already technically challenging enough. However, mistakenly feeling like a Big (Amateur) Chef on Campus, I decided that a basic Battenberg cake was not interesting enough.
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bite | spring 2019
So, inspired by the art history class I am taking (as well as some very pretty pictures I found on the internet), I decided to make a Battenberg cake based on the works of Piet Mondrian.2 This cake took an entire day of preparation for me to get right. I made the cake and marzipan3 from scratch. I created four different batter colors, and five shades of marzipan. My excellent photographer Grace and I created a reasonably successful device to separate the three different colors of batter while they were in the pan. So, next time, I am going to save time, effort, and pain and just stick to a normal Battenberg cake. Much like Jamie Lannister5,6, I have learned humility through my trials. However, said trials did produce something very cool. While the exterior looks like it was painted by a toddler, the interior of the cake (in my mind) resembles good old Piet’s work. More than that, it tastes pretty good. Instead of sticking with the usual vanilla yellowcake, I added a flavor that I feel plays better with the almond in the marzipan; orange. The result is a nutty yet refreshing citrus cake, augmented by blackberry jam—a filling that binds the cake and introduces a muchneeded bit of tartness to combat the aggressively sweet marzipan. Perfect to enjoy with your tea, scones and dainty finger sandwiches. Or, more traditionally, for your snotty four-year-old to shove into his drooling maw. Your choice as always, dear reader.
GET 1¾ 3¼ 2 1 1 1/2 2 5 1¼ 2 1
Cake cups butter8 cups all-purpose flour cups granulated sugar tbsp baking powder tsp salt tsp baking soda large eggs large egg yolks cups buttermilk, room temp tbsp vegetable oil tbsp vanilla zest and juice of one medium orange food coloring blackcurrant jam Marzipan
4 2 1/2 2
cups almond flour cups granulated sugar cup + 4 tbsp water egg whites orange extract almond extract powdered/confectioner’s sugar food coloring
For those of you who aren’t familiar, marzipan is a frosting made of sugar syrup and almond flour. It has a lovely almond-y taste but is very sweet. Almost too sweet. I may have eaten too much of it. No, I will not tell you about how I found that out. 2 THIS WAS A MISTAKE. Ok, it does look pretty cool. But my God. 3 Mainly because, for whatever reason, I could find literally no marzipan anywhere. WHY, AMERICA? WHY? 4 Ok, it was two dividers made of tinfoil. 5 You know I got that Game of Thrones reference in there. 6 Addendum: The humility aspect is really the only way we are similar, I am glad to say. He’s an incestuous, single-handed, admittedly attractive, medieval knight fighting White Walkers. I’m a non-incestuous (I feel like this is an important point), double-handed, mildly overweight, modern nerd fighting grade-based parental disappointment and a general lack of sleep. 7 “Very cool” is a descriptor used by the mildly delusional author and is in no way indicative of the views of Bite Magazine’s staff, editing team, or really anyone beyond him. 8 3 ½ sticks. You’re reading an article about cake. I’m not apologizing for the fact that it’s awful for you. 1
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DO Cake9
Marzipan
1. Combine sugar, flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Whisk until combined. 2. Whisk eggs, egg yolks, buttermilk, and vanilla together in a separate bowl. Zest and juice the orange into the mixture and whisk to combine. 3. Divide butter into one-inch cubes, and whisk into the bowl with dry ingredients. Using an electric mixer10, mix until batter has a pebbly consistency. 4. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add half of the wet ingredients. Whisk until all flour is hydrated. Once this has happened, add the rest of the wet ingredients and whisk until combined and smooth. 5. 11 Divide batter into two halves. Divide one of said halves into three bowls and mix each with a different color of food coloring. 6. Pour into two loaf pans; for the different colored batters, pour into a pan with two dividers.12 Bake at 325°F for 30 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean.13 7. To assemble, wait until the cakes are cooled. Slice the layers and combine, bonded by blackcurrant jam, to form your desired internal design, be it checkerboard or Mondrianinspired. Cover the whole cake (or at least the top) in a layer of jam.14
1. Gently heat sugar and water in a saucepan on the stove, stirring constantly, until sugar is dissolved. Once this happens, stop stirring and heat the mixture to 238°F.15 Once it reaches this point, remove from heat and stir in almonds, then egg white. Mix in orange and almond extracts. 2. Turn the marzipan out onto a confectioner’s-sugared work surface. Divide in half, and one of the halves into four sections. Knead the marzipan on the floured surface until pliable and smooth—it should feel like a bread dough. Work desired color into the four smaller balls.16 3. Roll out the large ball of marzipan until large enough to cover the cake. Using a rolling pin, drape over the cake, cutting to fit. Roll out the smaller balls and use them to create Mondrian-style decorations. Bond with a touch of water on the underside of each decoration.
This is a pretty standard orangey cake recipe. Feel free to go wild with the flavors. USE ONE! I don’t have one and I’m too cheap to buy one but doing it by hand is not a good way to do this. We started using them for a reason, kiddos. 11 This is where it gets ugly. If you want to just make a classic Battenberg, make two colors.
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26 bite | spring 2019
Thank you to Love and Olive Oil for the Marzipan recipe! https://www.loveandoliveoil.com/2014/07/june-kitchenchallenge-homemade-marzipan.html
We made these out of foil, but this system had…flaws. Please, if you have other, more effective ideas, let me know! 13 With a regular Battenberg, just pour into two pans. 14 This is to bond the marzipan to the cake. 15 Ok—you do need a food thermometer for this one. Honestly, I’d just buy this as well. They are ten dollars on Amazon and are super helpful for almost all dishes.