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dear foo d ie s & fr i en d s The nostalgic, earthy pungency of nutmeg. The gentle burn of smoked paprika. The aromatic, acerbic qualities of ground ginger. Spices are a ubiquitous force in traditional, contemporary, and modern cuisines throughout the world; they’ve built and destroyed cultures, started wars, and elevated human perception of taste and flavor. Our cover spread this issue pays homage to the multitude of ways in which spice can transform the way we experience the edible. In this issue, like every issue of Bite, we attempt to work in the spirit of spices by exposing and exploring differing gateways into the culinary world that surrounds us. We look to the ways in which food defines community and vice versa in our features on South Side staples Daley’s and the Banana Leaf (p. 12), as well our review of Currency Exchange Cafe just in nearby Washington Park (p. 9). Moving further along this vein, we sat down for an in-depth conversation with Jenne Vailoces of Jennivee’s Bakery, whose newly opened venue for sweets seeks to serve as a safe haven for the LGBTQ population of Chicago (p.14). Additionally, our feature on Seasons Soda (p. 18) and Q&A with Yasmeen Haider of Cake Pop Place (p. 10) explore how certain culinary creators treat their work as an art form. And of course, we also took our charge quite literally with our recipe on the Nigerian spice Suya (p. 27): a way to upgrade any savory dish with dangerous levels of heat. While perusing this issue, take a moment to interrogate the different lenses with which you understand cuisine. Just as spice can add the extra kick necessary to redefine a dish, we hope you find the inspiration within these pages to redefine your own perception of food and drink as you see fit.
the editors 2
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table of contents 4 budlong 5 band of bohemia 6 furious spoon 7 roti 8 fat rice 9 Currency exchange 10 cake pop Q&A 12 serving up solidarity 14 jennivee’s bakery 18 the carbonated craft 22 drunk foods 24 bone broth 25 star bread 25 hokkaido milk bread 26 suya Editor-in-Chief Joe Joseph Managing editor Karen Sung creative directors HYEONG-SUN CHO, KATHRYN YIN MARKETING DIRECTOR SAISHA PANJABI designers karen xu, suhasni singh, yarra elmasry, yolanda yu writers AANYA JHAVERI, ALAN YANG, AMANDA WILSON, DAPHNE XU, ELI HARTER, ISAAC TANNENBAUM, JAMES BARRIERE, KATE FUELL, KATE MCPOLIN, MOYO ABIONA, NICK OGILVIE, NIKITA COUTINHO, PAIGE RESNICK, RACHEL WEINBREN, WENDY ZHENG photographers ANDY ZHAO, ANGELA FUNG, ANJALI DHILLON, FIONA GASAWAY, GABBY LUU, GIOVANNA DECASTRO, JENNY KIM, MARIA XU, MELANIE WANG, PEGGY XU, YARRA ELMASRY COVER PHOTO GABBY LUU
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REVIEW:
budlong by // James Barriere photos // Andy zhao
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Fried Chicken Sandwich
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After a false start in Lakeview and a popular stall at Revival Food Hall, The Budlong Hot Chicken has finally settled into a space of its own. Behind an airy window near the Armitage El is another cayenne and flour-dredged outpost for the Nashville specialty colonizing Chicago. The Budlong makes a strong first impression: a huge window beckons from the sidewalk and floods the space with natural light during the day. The interior seems to draw from the ‘southern Pinterest’ canon with a mishmash of black and white photos and exposed brick. Tying everything together are two huge picnic tables in the center of the dining room. It is a dining room with loads of charm that manages to avoid being too precious. Service is similarly charming, especially for a counter-service operation. At the counter, the staff taking orders were game to any questions or explanations of the simple menu. Other wait staff roamed the dining room, seamlessly running food and keeping water filled. Hot chicken is popularly held to have been created to exact revenge for a boyfriend’s infidelity. Sordid past aside, it has gained a reputation as an intensely painful and flavorful experience. In practice, the spice of my chicken sandwich missed the
mark. I ordered a ‘Hot’ sandwich (the second spiciest offering) and was disappointed to be left wanting for more. Ignoring spice level, however, The Budlong serves an incredible fried chicken sandwich. The breading was crisp and flavorful, the meat was unbelievably juicy, and a complex pickle, sauce, and slaw combo played counterpoint to the fat and salt of the meat. The slightly sweet brioche bun, straight from Expensive Sandwich Central Casting, held everything together perfectly. In the future, I would order their X-Hot chicken, which might have more of the spice I wanted in the sandwich. Sides were a bit more hit-and-miss. Collard greens were excellent, making up for a lack of the meatiness I look for with sharp cider vinegar and a little bit of spice. Mac and cheese was a mixed experience. While the sauce had a great sharp cheddar flavor, it was sunk by a grainy and floury texture. Overall, my trip to The Budlong was enjoyable. They put out an excellent sandwich and decent sides. My main sticking point with them was the price. At $10 for the sandwich, $4 for sides and $3 for drinks, it is very expensive for fried chicken. While The Budlong could be a great neighborhood lunch spot, travelling to Lincoln Park for a $20 fried chicken dinner is a huge ask.
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BAND OF BOHEMIA by // AMANDA WILSON photos // Fiona Gasaway
On the far north side, Ravenswood is home to the first ever Michelin-starred brewpub: Band of Bohemia. The restaurant sits on a servicelike road nearly underneath the Union Pacific North Metra line, and despite being one of the only addresses on the street, it’s fairly easy to miss. The entrance is located in the back, and even after stepping inside, I thought I was in an old-timey bed and breakfast rather than a restaurant. Keep walking, however, and it’s clear that Michael Carroll and Craig Sindelar, co-founders, promise a uniquely Chicago experience. The tables are lined along what could have served as a ballroom sixty years ago, with an open kitchen and long bar on one side, windows on the other, and circular booths chiseled from the back wall. The servers are friendly, and six pages of the book-like menu are dedicated to drinks, not too surprising from a place that calls itself a ‘Culinary Brewpub’. We began our meal with the Smoked Sturgeon. The fish has been prepared like bacon and cured, imparting a deep meaty flavor to a fish that’s usually only good for its eggs (black caviar comes from sturgeon roe). Sliced in strips and laid on a thick piece of sourdough spread with a rich egg yolk custard, the fish is given a dot of black raspberry jelly, adding just a bit of acidity to cut through the savory flavors.
Also of note is the Duck Confit Pappardelle— thick ribbons of fresh egg pasta in a luxurious velouté (literally: velvet) sauce topped with
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Smorked Sturgeon Parsnip duck cracklins—and the barramundi, a light Mediterranean-inspired dish, grilled to perfection atop a vibrant orange piquillo pepper puree with olives, fennel, and potatoes. One of the Band’s true highlights is the postdinner experience. I dare anyone to find a
dessert in Chicago even remotely alike any of the four desserts on the menu. In ‘Parsnip’, an airy parsnip cake and a vinegary apple sorbet sit atop a meringue bridge, which, once broken, falls into a parsnip foam. A delicate orange blossom custard is topped with a layer of pistachio dust and a tangy pomegranate sorbet for the Orange Flower Pot de Crème. Any self-respecting restaurant would serve coffee alongside such ornate desserts as these, and at Band of Bohemia, this after-dinner beverage perfectly mirros the intricacy of the desserts. Upon arrival at the table, the Smoked Espresso is covered with an upside-down glass of pecan smoke. The glass is removed, and smoke flows out onto the table to reveal a shallow ceramic espresso cup holding an ounce of raspberry vinegar-infused espresso. The Orange Doily latte is a beautiful cappuccinolike combination of cinnamon, cardamom, and of course, orange, each flavor subtle and sophisticated. Despite the name, Band of Bohemia does not present traditional Eastern European cuisine. Instead, they have elevated relatively unassuming flavors to dynamic and surprising dishes, served in a colorful and contemporary environment. Do not come to Band of Bohemia for an orthodox experience; come for a quirky and whimsical one. REVIEW 5
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furious spoon by // Katie Mcpolin photos // Anjali Dhillon
Popping my head through the door at the flagship Wicker Park location of Furious Spoon, the steam from the kitchen rolls out to greet me, followed by an explosive soundtrack of Tupac’s greatest hits. I feel like I’m in a music video. I claim three seats at one of the tall communal tables. Furious Spoon is fast-casual, with all food and drinks ordered at the same counter. Several people are seated alone at a bar that wraps around the kitchen, allowing you to watch the noodles being made. It’s refreshing to be somewhere where it is comfortable to come with friends, or to enjoy your own company -it’s casual, dim, and altogether peaceful, and the insulated clamor of the kitchen is a focal point, not a distraction. As we sit down, a line begins to form, first by the windows and soon out the door. Furious Spoon makes a great lunch on a day spent window shopping or thrifting in Wicker Park, but with late hours every day of the week, would be an ideal rendezvous after a concert or other late-night hijinks. As our food arrives, our table has already filled. Anjali runs our hot bowls to the front windows for ample lighting, and the shop is cozy enough that she makes it back before the steam finishes rising. I ordered shoyu ramen, topped with pork belly and a poached egg, along with a side of takoyaki 6
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(fried balls of dough stuffed with pickled ginger, green onion, and octopus). Anjali orders the classic Furious Ramen with the works—pork
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Shoyu Ramen Vegetable Ramen belly, chicken, fury sauce, and everything else -along with a small beef brisket bowl. Our friend Urvi orders the vegetable ramen, also with fury sauce, one of Furious Spoon’s great vegetarian options. The ramen is simply beautiful, framed by
polished ceramic bowls and abound with colorful vegetables and fresh yellow noodles. My shoyu ramen is rich and hearty, and the egg is just runny enough—I clear my bowl in about ten minutes, which is faster than I’ve ever eaten ramen before. The Furious Ramen is loaded, and the fury sauce is packed with, intense, complex heat complemented by the aromatic garlic relish (the secret star of the bowl). The vegetable ramen is overflowing with bean sprouts and cabbage, and also goes perfectly with the fury sauce; however, the broth was the standout. Instead of the heavy pork flavor of the tonkotsu broth, the vegetable broth was softer and clearer, and didn’t feel as overwhelmingly salty by the end of the meal. For the sides, the takoyaki was crispy and fluffy, drizzled with a delicious sauce, and the brisket rice bowl was a humble savory companion to the soup. Being able to switch between a light rice dish and rich soup helped us pace our meal. Furious Spoon is at its heart a ramen shop, but I fully recommend ordering plentiful sides. Furious Spoon is an exercise in balance. It’s a big lunch after a long morning, or a late-night snack after an evening out. It’s a place for boisterous gathering, and for satisfying solitude. It’s a fast, filling meal, at once traditional and exciting. Furious Spoon makes inventive homemade ramen accessible, and makes it look easy.
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ROTI by// Kate Fuell photos // Melanie Wang
Squeezed in right next to Chipotle on 53rd, Roti, the new Mediterranean restaurant, is quite comparable to its neighbor. In a similar pick-and-choose, create-your-own fashion, Roti offers simple yet colorful options for a light meal. The Hyde Park addition is brand new. Slate grey walls and wicker light fixtures help to set the mood. With impeccably quick service, crowded café style seating, and a bus your own table atmosphere, it is very much unique quality fast food. With base options of salad, rice, and pita/ wraps, the possibilities for constructing a meal are quite varied. In an attempt to build myself a falafel sandwich, I opted for the laffa wrap, a modern take on the classic Mediterranean sandwich. After picking the base, the next step was to pick the “protein,” with chicken, lamb, salmon and various shawarma meat options. The chicken roti was nicely marinated in a tangy sauce. After choosing both the base and the protein, the toppings were a free-for-all, spanning from freshly roasted vegetables to couscous. The most exciting options, however, were the sauces. Under the recommendation of a helpful employee, we tried the dill, yogurt and cucumber sauce as well as the roasted red pepper spread. With the perfect consistency, and the perfect amount of flavor, the sauces upgraded the meal instantly. In my wrap, I choose the dill, yogurt
and cucumber sauce paired with falafel, hummus, feta, cilantro, chicken roti and a tomato, cucumber mix. The sauce paired nicely with the tomato and cucumber mix providing a flavor that awakened my taste buds. The most disappointing aspect of the meal, however, were the falafel balls. The fried vegetarian fritters were lacking in both consistency and crunch. Instead of the crispy falafel you expect from a Mediterranean restaurant, the falafel not only lacked flavor, but also contained whole chick-peas, which melted into the background of my wrap. The rice bowl was another great option. The fresh vegetables provided both great flavor and great color to the meal, as well as the couscous. The hummus serving was larger than expected, and accidentally downplayed the other flavors of the bowl. Compared to other chain Mediterranean restaurants, such as Naf Naf Grill and I Dream of Falafel, Roti provides a more well-rounded experience. With a larger, and healthier variety of both toppings and base dishes, Roti allows for a more eclectic, though less authentic, Mediterranean experience. For a nice cheap meal on a Saturday night, Roti provides a great option for those sick of Thai 55. With a large variety of options, Roti will satisfy your Mediterranean cravings with suitable speed and studentfriendly prices.
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Hyde Park pRICES
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Dill, Yogurt & Cucubmer Sauce Rice Bowl
REVIEW 7
REVIEW:
fat rice by // Nikita Coutinho photos // jenny kim
It was an overcast Friday afternoon when we made the long trek up to Logan Square. After weeks of dining hall fare, we were ready to bask in the glory of the Macanese cuisine available at Fat Rice. We had only heard praise for the establishment and were informed that the curry would “feed our burning desires,” which served to elevate our expectations. We could not pinpoint the vibe of Fat Rice, as it seemed to be the product of contrasting themes. It was “east meets west” and “traditional meets modern”, but it blended seamlessly. The pop art posters, delicate china vases, polished dark-wood floors, gleaming woks and string lighting were in their own right noteworthy, but together, were remarkable. Fat Rice has an extremely intimate setting, to the extent that we could count the number of fellow diners with our fingers. The menu also followed this minimalist theme—although the crisp single sheet still had us lost in indecision. We finally opted for the minchi hash and Macau baked pork chop rice with a Japanese tea to accompany. Our servers were courteous and enthusiastic and went the extra mile in answering our questions about the extensive tea menu. 8
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Our tea arrived first and we were struck by how the small clear pot, with its swirling contents in shades of juniper and olive,
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Minchi Hash Pork Chop Rice resembled a mini aquarium. It was a light tea with the hint of rice proving to be distinctive but not overpowering, making it a welcome relief between courses. The minchi hash was a mélange of finely chopped fried pork, leafy greens, sticky
coconut-based rice while a sunny-side egg atop. Individually, the components were thoroughly average and when sufficiently combined, remained perfectly mediocre. The fried egg, which brought the most cohesion to the dish, could easily have been crafted in a dorm kitchen. Our spirits were uplifted by the fried rice, coconut curry and pork chop extravaganza that was our next dish. The Macau-baked dish looked golden and glorious and intensely flavorful. We appreciated the little touches like the cilantro, chili and bone-in pork chop which elevated the profile of the dish. However, we also felt that this dish was little more than standard fare and not exclusive to the Fat Rice kitchen. Ultimately, though Fat Rice exhibits a vibrant aesthetic, we cannot honestly say its fare lived up to the hype. Its glorified Asian cuisine was better than the average take-out but not to a great degree and certainly not to the price it commanded. We left with our hunger appeased but unconvincevd and unable to sing its praises. Though we may not return in a hurry, we are still grateful for the excellent service and stunning visuals that we experienced at Fat Rice.
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by// Rachel weinbren photos // Fiona Gasaway
currency Exchange Looking for an off-campus adventure but don’t have too much time? Craving southern soul food and Mexican flavors? Hop on the 55 bus westbound to Washington Park and stop by Currency Exchange Cafe, for that and more. A restaurant hosting UChicago students and local residents alike, this musttry on the Arts Block feeds the stomach and the soul. This old currency exchange building-turned-restaurant is surely a place to discover and enjoy new sights and flavors. From the bookshelf in the back to the original hand-painted signs, the remnants from the building’s currency exchange days are complemented by beautiful tile tables and the artsy vibe of the space. Come enjoy a delicious breakfast, brunch, or lunch and stay through the afternoon with a book and a laptop. The restaurant itself has a calm and chill vibe. You walk in and pick your own table, grabbing yourself a glass bottle of water and cups from a side table. You take yourself to the bar when you’re ready to order with a welcoming and laid back waiter. From the fun flavored drinks to the all-day breakfast and delicious tacos, you really can’t go wrong in
your decision. The ‘Pom-Pom’ is a limeade and pomegranate iced tea option, while the matcha latte is warm and delicious. The ‘Hello Kitty’ is
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Pom-Pom Hello Kitty a fun take on coffee, and the typical hot tea or chai latte are always options depending on your mood.
The food comes out quickly, and the service is excellent. The pancakes are large and fluffy; the kind of pancakes they have in the diners in movies. The breakfast plate is huge, with lots of options for you to choose from, while the breakfast sandwich was filled to the brim with eggs, cheese, and meat. It is a meal that will fill you up for the whole morning as you sit down to write a paper. If you are in the mood for lunch, they are known for their tacos. From veggie to pollo (chicken) or the ‘picadillo,’ with beef, potato, cheddar, lettuce, and tomato, and warm soft tortillas. These well-portioned tacos hit the spot. Pick two if you are not too hungry, or go for three for a larger meal. A delicious and local restaurant, Currency Exchange is the place to try. To bring together the community-centered feel of the restaurant, make sure to check out the fliers they have on the bar by the door. As you head out, tastebuds satisfied, you can hear about interesting events and groups meeting in the area or get to know issues that community members care about. This deep connection between cuisine and community makes Currency Exchange Cafe truly stand out.
REVIEW 9
BY A A N YA J H AV E R I PHOTOS BY YA R R A ELMASRY
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CAKE POP Q&A
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asmeen Haider is a student entrepreneur and current first year at the University of Chicago. I recently sat down with her to discuss her experiences running her business, Cake Pop Place, based in Potomac, Maryland. HELLO YASMEEN, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO TALK TO US HERE AT BITE MAGAZINE TODAY. VERY BRIEFLY, WOULD YOU LIKE TO SUM UP HOW YOU STARTED YOUR BUSINESS? YH: My pleasure! In 9th grade, I had just come out of an info session for a Spanish Immersion trip that my school ran each summer, which was pretty expensive. My parents said that if I met them halfway with the price, I could go. I chose cake pops because they were relatively new in the baking industry, and I started making them off of a recipe online which eventually evolved into my own original recipe. WAS THAT YOUR FIRST FORAY INTO COOKING? YH: It was! It took about two months to get good at it. With my first orders—if I got a dozen, I would have to make at least a dozen and a half because half of them would break. Now, I can easily make 300 cake pops and only have three or four to spare. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY IS YOUR FAVORITE ORDER SO FAR? YH: A return customer of mine is a business in Washington D.C that uses my cake pops as party favors for their investors. I have made them 300 pops with their logo for the past three years. WITH YOUR EXPERIENCE IN MIND, WHAT ARE SOME OF THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN BEING A FOOD ENTREPRENEUR VERSUS ANY OTHER ENTREPRENEUR? YH: With food entrepreneurship the struggle is mainly with licensing and getting the certifications to sell your food because you can’t make people sick. When I was in my sophomore year of high school and decided to continue the business after returning from the Spain trip, I had to apply for certifications as well as insurance for selling at different farmer’s markets. It’s also difficult because you have to differentiate yourself within a food that a lot of people sell. I’m not the only person that sells cake pops in my area, but I have to prove that mine are different and better. DO YOU HAVE ANY EXCITING FLAVORS THAT YOU MAKE? WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE ONE TO COOK UP WHEN YOU’RE FEELING ADVENTUROUS? YH: So I have my three standard flavors—chocolate, vanilla, and red velvet. I think probably my favorite flavors are the ones I get from custom orders because if you have a flavor in mind, I’ll try to make it. There’s been some really cool ones like rum cake, apple pie, chocolate raspberry, chocolate orange, mocha, and Nutella was a really fun one to try too. Those are the most fun because they’re the most innovative, and you have to manipulate the recipe to create the flavor. FINAL QUESTION, WHAT IS YOUR #1 PIECE OF KITCHEN ADVICE? YH: I would say to not give up in the beginning, especially if you’re trying to make something you’re unfamiliar with. I can’t tell you how many cake pops I’ve had break on me—definitely in the hundreds, maybe in the thousands, but I would say it’s definitely important to not give up when times get tough. You can follow Cake Pop Place on Facebook and Instagram: @cakepopplace. FEATURE 11
Serving Up Solidarity
Written by Isaac Tannenbaum Photography by Giovanna DeCastro
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C
hicago is a city of rich diversity. Strong communities of Polish and Hispanic immigrants, along with their white and black neighbors, call the beating heart of the Midwest their home. However, it is also a divided city, with each of its demographic groups remaining within relatively strict boundaries. Last year, CNN even condemned Chicago as being the most segregated city in America. These separations are strongly felt on the South Side, yet the walls dividing the different communities crumble when food is involved. The uniquely human habit of dining is extremely social, and transcends racial, territorial, and socioeconomic divisions. This is especially true today given the proliferation of culturally specific restaurants on the South Side of Chicago. One such establishment is Daley’s Restaurant, a Chicago staple that has been serving up traditional soul food since 1892. Daley’s is one of these cultural crossroads for the greater South Side community. Located just underneath the Green Line station at 63rd and Cottage Grove, it was filled to the brim with diners on an unseasonably warm Sunday midmorning. The eatery’s popcorn ceilings, side paneling, and Tiffany’sstyle light fixtures instantly reminded the patrons of what kind of place it is: an unpretentious living room where different people come together for delicious cuisine. Kiki, a South Side native who’s been coming to Daley’s for over ten years, credited the ambiance as to what brings her back. “The atmosphere here is just so lively and energetic,” she said. Sitting next to her was a family friend who has been eating Daley’s grilled pork chops for over 40 years. Even though he moved out of the South Side and doesn’t frequent it as much as he used
to, he affirmed that nothing could ever stop him from coming to eat there. The crowd was primarily black, but there was a varied representation of other racial groups as well. Socioeconomic divisions were not present in the dining room, as there were designer accessories right next to rubber band money ties. Perhaps that’s the power of their buttermilk biscuits––people of all walks of life come together to get a taste of their buttery, warm insides. The second South Side eatery we visited, the Banana Leaf, was farther south, on 79th street. It’s a small Caribbean joint with a few tables in the front for anyone who wants to eat in. Sitting there, eating candied yams while the snow swirled in the wind outside, it was clear why so many people keep coming back to this unassuming hole-in-the-wall. It seemed as if we had been invited to a party hosted by the employees––they had music blasting, and they would take breaks from laughing and singing along to take orders and fill dishes, mostly for regulars. Khadijah, one of the women at the cash register, mentioned that it’s almost always familiar faces there, some of whom travel all the way from the western suburbs just for the food. One of these regulars made the environment feel even more welcoming than it already was, telling us that we––who clearly are not of Caribbean descent––are always welcome there, and that he looks forward to “breaking bread” with us again sometime soon. It’s more than the food and ambiance that makes these two restaurants so prime for bringing together disparate cultures. As the man at the Banana Leaf demonstrated, the act of sharing food is what unites seemingly irreconcilable and potentially antagonistic communities. In other words, breaking bread breaks walls.
FEATURE 13
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Let Them Eat Cake
written by Alan Yang Photography by Maria Xu FEATURE 15 FEATURE
Regardless of w “Regardless of who you are, everybody deserves good cake,” says Jenne Vailoces as she pushes a pan of vanilla cupcakes into the oven. In reference to bakeries that refuse to make wedding cakes for LGBTQ couples, it is this guiding motto that encouraged Ms. Vailoces to open Jennivee’s Bakery. Located on 3301 N. Sheffield Avenue in Lakeview, Jennivee’s has been the work of Vailoces’ lifetime. Born in the Philippines, Vailoces began baking at age six and never attained formal culinary training. When she was young, Vailoces says her family always noticed there “was something different.” With the support of the Filipino trans community, she underwent gender transition. She later immigrated to America and settled in Chicago in 2008, working as a physical therapist. Meanwhile, her passion for baking remained a hobby and placed her desire to bake on the backburner. Two years ago, she decided she would work to transform her passion into career. She eventually secured the location
everybody des
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who you are of the former Real Kitchen, and news travelled of the bakery in December 2016. The restaurant passed health inspections this year on January 19 and eventually opened on February 5. The “Jennivee” in Jennivee’s Bakery, which is made in the image of Vailoces herself, pays homage to a nickname given to Vailoces by a dear friend. From the antique French furniture to the chandeliers to the purple semi-gothic wallpaper, the dessert café evokes Vailoces’ personal style. Her chalkboard menus describe her various cupcakes and cakes. When it comes to baking, Vailoces is “all about bringing back the classics” – the layered cakes of the South, the 1950’s. From Strawberry Kiss to Tres Leche, her desserts reflect a form of lost comfort that are not often found in Chicago’s European style bakeries. While inclined toward the traditional, she takes inspiration from her heritage. For example, Vailoces produces Purple Velvet cakes, made with ube, a staple in Filipino desserts. In tandem
with ube, Vailoces experiments with other tropical flavors such as mango and coconut. Furthermore, Vailoces wishes to bring classic Filipino pastries and flair into the fold. Her display case houses a diverse, beautiful array of desserts. Vailoces notes that she decided to open her bakery in Lakeview because of its friendliness to small businesses and because of the thriving LGBTQ community that resides proximally in Boystown. With respect to her entrepreneurial aspirations, Vailoces is working with cake designers for wedding cakes that taste as delicious as they look beautiful. On her customer base, “The gays, they like cake,” she chuckles. Unlike other bakeries, Jennivee’s is open evenings, from 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. Sundays through Thursdays and from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. In addition to coffee, tea, and hot chocolate, the dessert café is BYOB and serves to substitute for the neighborhood bar scene. Over vanilla cupcakes, her best-selling Ferrero Rocher cake, and mixed berry
cake, Vailoces admits her work is more than her passions. “I feel like I fit every minority: I am a woman, a woman of color, a transwoman, an immigrant,” she says. Indeed, Vailoces wants people to know this is a proudly LGBT owned business, a transwoman owned business, that welcomes LGBT people and is for the LGBT community. She wants to partner with the Center on Halsted to provide internships in customer service for LGBT youth so they can pursue careers of their own. While slicing into the chocolate icing of her Ferrero Rocher cake, Vailoces says “I wanted to somehow hopefully inspire people that just because you’re a minority, because you weren’t born in America… this is the place where you can still achieve your dreams.”
serves good cake.
FEATURE 17
the carbonated craft
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a closer look at Seasons Soda
FEATURE 19
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raft is a word that comes up often in the food community. It conjures up images of draft beer, rich lagers, and sparkling ciders. Of late, craft soda has become a driving force in foodie culture. To understand the craft soda movement, I met with Seasons Soda, a small company making quite an impact in the Chicago craft soda movement. The goal was to truly understand what “craft” is, especially in context with soda. The one response that came up over and over from Bobby Chang, the original innovator behind Seasons Soda, was that “We are in the middle of it.” He later adds, “It was always a deep interest of mine. I used to juice all the time. I was trying to create something that I felt was missing and that made sense to me.” For Bobby, “craft” is not something a product obtains but rather what that product embodies. For any craft soda provider, true craft cannot be understood from outside the food community—true craft arises from within it. Community is something Seasons Soda’s dream team evokes above all else. Every member truly seems to love gastronomy, mixology, and the way both connect people from all cultures and backgrounds. Every element of Seasons Soda comes from this shared sense of community; as Bobby puts it, “Everyone has the chance to put their mark on Seasons.” In return, the process never feels like work for the team. “We are not a commodity driven soda,” Bobby pointed out. One of the stand-out moments of the interview was the story behind the first flavor. Ben, a renaissance man of sorts, was an acupuncturist, expert herb-gatherer, bee keeper, and friend to Bobby. As the story goes, Ben had a surplus of honey and mint, and thus Honey Mint was the first of the four flavors to be conceived. Each flavor, whether that’s Maple, Bitter Lemon, or Ginger tonic, all have their own unique stories invested into their flavors. The inspiration and creation never ceases, and any moment could be the story behind the next big drink. A lot has changed since Seasons Soda arose out of Green City Market in 2012. The driving force for Seasons was to both increase and showcase its versatility. All the flavors are designed to stand out on their own, but Seasons Soda is “always thinking forward about what should exist in the market,” as Bobby explained. This is a distinct point on what Craft Soda is meant to be. While some companies see the economic incentive for a product in the marketplace, true craft arises from the existing gaps within the marketplace. “Seasons naturally fit into that [food/mixology] world. It’s inspired by the flavor.” One of the key places Seasons Soda felt they were being underused was in the mixology world. In partnership with Breakthru Beverage, Bitter Lemon and Ginger Tonic were released especially catered towards the bartending community. The perception of Seasons Soda was artisanal only, but by creating flavors with mixology in mind, the drinking
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community had a better idea of how much these soda flavors could be implemented. It was the versatility of flavors that made them “craft-worthy.” In addition to being part of the larger food culture, Seasons Soda has its own growing culture. Communication and Events Manager Lauren Pinkston commented that she enjoys “using seasons soda in cocktails. Food Pairing. Playing around in my own time.” Photographer Julia Lowe manages the Instagram account, and incorporates other photographer’s interpretations of the soda. Even the bottle is a testament to the investment and passion the culture of Seasons has. Each label is beautifully created by a different artist hinting that the impact the company has is not wholly contained in the bottle. Seasons Soda’s vision of “craft” has an authenticity that comes from within the foodie movement. It is based on an innovative combination of flavors that arise to fill the gaps in the market, with the versatility to provide a wide impact. Its heart, “craft” binds a community together united by the passion to create the best product possible.
by eli har ter photos by peggy xu
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FEATURE 21
Drunks Foods seem to have grown into a staple of modern pop-culture. Part social tradition, part ritual, part cultural collectivesubconscious social habit—the post-evening pre-sleep snack is almost an inherent part of the young adult’s life. So in case you’re current go-to’s getting a bit stale, or you’re just looking to try something different next time you’re out; here’s a selection of what different people round the world eat as their typical drunk food.
America - big mac and fries
The classic, the essential. Wherever you are, whatever time it is, it always seems like there’s an open one somewhere around the corner. In this case, we’ve gone for the Big Mac—though the cheeseburger or chicken nuggets may be equally as popular. Really, it’s any fast food restaurant; it’s the speed, saltiness and price that have wormed their way into our culture and our hearts. It’s at the core of the American stereotype around the world - not that it stops any of us going though.
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United Kingdom - Kebab
Pita-Bread opened up and filled with grilled meat, shredded lettuce and cabbage, tomatoes, pickles and drizzled with tahini sauce (hulled, toasted, and blended sesame seeds), the kebab is savory at its core with a slight tang from the tahini sauce. Go to any major city in the UK and you’ll see street corners filled with Kebab stalls all over the place in the early hours of any day. For a distinctly London feel, go for the Doner Kebab (meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie and shaken off). Introduced into the UK by Turkish immigrants, it has now become ubiquitous in evening-culture. Tough choice between this and the Chicken Shop for the UK’s quintessential drunk food, but the inherently street-food and late-night nature of kebab gives it the slight edge. South Korea - Dak Kalbi
Stir-fried chicken, shredded cabbage, sweet potatoes, and tteok (chewy rice cakes); drenched and finished in a generous helping of a gochujang sauce (Korean chili paste, thickened with rice powder and sugar). The part of Korean culture known as anju is cuisine specifically designed to be eaten whilst drunk. Dak Kalbi originated in street stalls, as an alternative to expensive grilled and seasoned meats—as it uses cheaper and more abundant ingredients as well as lending itself to larger portions. Authentically, it should be served on a stone-plate to keep it warm. Has since become a cult favorite amongst university students as a cheap snack available any time of day. Spicy and sweet, thick and full of texture, with the occasional sugary kick from the seet potatoes. CanAda - Poutine
French Fries served with light brown gravy and topped with cheese curds. Popularized in the Quebec region of Canada, but most likely originating from immigrants from the UK—particularly in Northern parts, chips and gravy is an uncommon but definitely similar dish that one can find. Classically a diner or street food, Poutine has since been taken up into Canadian culture and is now fully present throughout and around the country, in any place expensive or cheap. Light, savory gravy given texture and bite through the French fries, and the tang of the curdled cheese, Poutine provides the drive for variety. Germany - Currywurst
Bratwurst (pork sausage) served on top of a bed of french fries, covered in ketchup and curry powder. A classic part of German cuisine culture, Currywurst—particularly in Berlin—is synonymous with street and fast food. Generally attributed to being the invention of Herta Heuwer, who in 1949 traded with British Soldiers stationed in Berlin and added their traditional British sauces to a bratwurst before selling them from her street stall )the French Fries would be added later). Currywurst holds strong contrasting flavors between the salty and savory sausage and the sweet and sour Ketchup. The curry powder adds a nice spicy kick of flavor, and the French Fries add another texture and element to the dish. South Africa - Biltong / Jerky Dried and cured meat (various)—typically sold in snack packets. In South Africa, there aren’t that many places open at that sort of time in the morning, so most people head to gas stations/drug stores and buy the essential snack of South Africa - biltong. Virtually identical in concept and taste to American Jerky (what is displayed and shown in the photos as an American alternative to the snack, which is fairly rare and hard to find outside South Africa)—he primary difference being that Biltong is dried and then sliced, whereas Jerky is sliced and then dried. Salty, chewy, with kicks and tangs from the abundance of spices that have been added.
Written by Nick Ogilvie Photography by Giovanna De Castro
23
Bone B rot h BY PAIGE RESNICK PHOTOS BY YARRA ELMASRY As Chicagoans know all too well, the freezing temperatures and blustery winds can be the culprit behind frequent illnesses during the winter season. When your mother prescribes chicken soup to cure your sickness, try this recipe for bone broth instead for
its truly miraculous health benefits. Bone broth is a type of water-based stock made from animal bones along with meat and vegetables, simmering in a pot for many hours. This delicious remedy has been shown to improve joint health, reduce cellulite and other skin issues, boost the immune system, and heal the lining of your gut, making this soup both a great-tasting and healthy option. The low and slow cooking process releases a multitude of nutrients, healing your body and soul
do: 1. Place all of the ingredients in a large stock pot and cover with cold water by a few inches. 2. Cover and bring to a boil (about 1 hour). 3. Reduce heat to medium and simmer uncovered for 3 hours, skimming off and discarding the foam every 20-30 minutes until gone. As level of broth reduces, add a few cups of water each hour. 4. Remove vegetables and meat from bones and discard. 5. Return bones to pot and continue to simmer for at least 3 more hours. The longer you cook the bones, the more nutrients are released. 6. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Taste for salt. If the broth is too rich, you can add a couple more cups of water. If the broth is not flavorful enough, you can cook it down for longer. 7. Remove the large bones from the pot. 8. Pour through a large strainer into another pot and transfer broth to storage containers. 9. Refrigerate for up to a week or freeze for a few months. Solidified fat can be skimmed from top of broth (or not) when ready to reheat.
get: • 1 pound large, whole cooked shrimp • 3 veal cones (with marrow)* • 3lb cheap cut of beef (such as bottom round)* • 3 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped • 8 celery stalks, roughly chopped • 2 large onions, roughly chopped 24
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• 1 (14.5oz) can of whole peeled tomatoes • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns • 5-10 sprigs curly parsley Kosher salt *You can also replace the veal bones and both round with 3lb bone-in beef shank or beef shin, if desired.
BY DAPHNE XU PHOTOS BY FIONA GASAWAY
get: Dough: • 3¾ cups flour • ⅓ cup sugar • 1 pinch of salt • ¾ cup milk • 16 g dry yeast • 2 egg yolks
• 2 tbsp. butter • 1 egg white Filling: • ½ cup sugar • ⅓-½ cup butter • 4 tbsp. ground cinnamon
star bread Deceptively simple yet incredibly eyepleasing, this recipe for Swedish Cinnamon Star Bread comes from an adaption on the various recipes from across the world on twisted cinnamon pastries. This bread is best served during the winter months, alongside an espresso and steamed milk to balance the notes of yeast, cinnamon, and sugar. The recipe calls for ingredients foundational for any saccharine bun recipe, and many may already be in your pantry. A trick of the trade: when twisting the two
pieces of dough together to form one edge of the star, pull upwards and away from each other and give only one firm pinch to form a seam. This allows the star to look as effortless as possible. Preparing four layers of dough on top of a sweet cinnamon filling requires a bit of patience, but the end result is worth it. Finished with a brush of egg wash, the Swedish Cinnamon Star Bread will leave your kitchen smelling of sweet cinnamon for days, and your mouth watering at the sight of this pastry.
do: 1. Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a large mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, warm up the milk and then add the yeast to let it activate for fifteen minutes. 2. Once the yeast and milk have rested for fifteen minutes, add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients. Stir them together and then add the egg yolks and softened butter. 3. As the ingredients begin to come together, begin kneading with your hands or with a stand-mixer to form the dough into a smooth ball. If the dough feels too dry, add a bit of milk. 4. Once the dough forms into a smooth ball, place it into an oiled bowl and allow it to rise for about one hour until it has doubled in size. 5. While the dough is rising, prepare the filling by combining the sugar, softened butter, and cinnamon together. Set aside when finished. 6. Once the dough has risen, gently lift it out of the bowl and divide it into four equal balls. Knead each ball separately and then roll each one out into a circle that is approximately 10 inches in diameter. Do
not worry if the edges are not neat; they will be trimmed afterwards. 7. Spread 1/3 of the filling on the circle, leaving a one-inch border. Repeat the process two more times so that all of the filling is used and a layer of filling sits in between each circle. 8. There will be four layers of dough and three layers of filling. Once the last ball has been rolled out and placed on top of the others, use a plate that is approximately 10 inches in diameter to outline a circle on top of the dough, and then trim the excess off. 9. Place a cup approximately 3 inches in diameter at the center of the circle to use as a guide. From here, cut the circle first into fourths, then eighths, and then sixteenths. Remember to leave the inner circle intact. 10. Take two of the strips and twist them away from each other twice. Repeat this eight times. 11. Brush the pastry with egg wash and bake at 350°F for fifteen to twenty minutes until golden brown around the edges. Allow the pastry to cool, and then enjoy. RECIPE 25
BY WENDY ZHENG PHOTOS BY ANGELA FUNG
get: • 1 cup warm whole milk, plus extra for brushing on the unbaked loaf • 8 tbsp. unsalted butter, For the dough: cut into pieces • 5 cups bread and softened flour at room • ½ cup sugar temperature, • 4 tsp. active plus extra for dry yeast (2 buttering bowls packets) and pan • 2 tsp. salt • 2 eggs For the starter: • ⅓ cup bread flour • ½ cup whole milk • ½ cup water
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hokkaido milk bread Skip the CTA ride to Chinatown and spending a lazy afternoon to make this Asian bakery classic instead. The enticing smells of freshly baked bread and the therapeutic kneading and rising process are sure to relieve any stress, and at the end of it all, you can indulge in the softest and fluffiest loaf you could ever imagine. While milk bread is delectable on its own, it’s easily adaptable to a variety of equally delicious recipes, like brick toast, red bean paste buns, and bread pudding. Milk bread is traditionally eaten for breakfast or as a snack; however, no matter what time of day, this bread is sure to satisfy any craving!
do: 1. Make the tang zhou: Mix the flour, milk, and water in a small pot until smooth. Then, simmer while stirring often over a medium low heat for roughly 10 minutes or until the mixture has thickened to a point where the spoon leaves tracks on the bottom of the pot. Remove from the heat and let it cool to room temperature. 2. Make the dough: In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, whisk the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt until combined. Add the eggs, milk, and starter. Knead by hand or on low speed for 5 minutes. Add the softened butter and knead for another 10-12 minutes until the dough is smooth and springy. 3. Let the dough rise: Shape the dough into a ball and place it into a buttered bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel. In a warm place, let it rise for 40-60 minutes, or until it’s doubled in size.* Punch the dough down and cut it into in quarters. Form each quarter into a ball and cover to rise for another 15 minutes. 4. Roll the dough: Flour a flat surface and gently roll out one dough ball into a 12-inch long and 6-inch wide oval. Fold the top 3 inches down and the bottom 3 inches up to make a square. Starting from the right edge of the square, roll the dough
into a large cylinder and place it horizontally into a 9 x 5 inch buttered loaf pan seam side down near one end of the pan. Repeat with another dough ball, except placing it on the other end of the pan. 5. Roll the buns: Divide the remaining two dough balls into quarters, then take each of the dough balls and form into whatever shape you desire. Place the buns onto a buttered sheet pan. 6. Bake the bread: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cover and let the buns and the loaf rest for 30 to 40 minutes or until the buns are doubled in size and the loaf is peeking over the edge of the pan and the two halves meet in the middle. Brush the tops with milk and bake on the bottom shelf for 35-40 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. 7. Serve the bread: Cool on the pan for 10 minutes, then transfer it to a wire rack to cool for an hour to soften the crust and keep the air bubbles within the crumb. Serve plain or with honey or jam for an indulgent treat! *To rise the bread in the shortest amount of time, put the covered dough in an oven or microwave with the light on for ideal yeast activation temperatures.
suya BY MOYO ABIONA PHOTOS BY GABBY LUU Warning: this spice is hot! It is not for the faint of heart, or palate, so consume at your own risk. Suya Pepper is common among the Hausa people of Nigeria, though the hot spice has been integrated throughout most of the country.
Although this recipe uses suya to garnish beef and veggies such as peppers and okra, feel free to spice it up with whatever sort of meat or protein your heart and stomach desire. What can I say… we like it hot!
get:
do:
Suya Pepper spice: • ¾ cup roasted peanuts • 6 tsp. dry pepper or cayenne pepper or chili pepper flakes (ground) • 6 tsp. paprika • 3 tsp. ground ginger • 3 tsp. garlic powder • 3 tsp. onion powder • 6 tsp. of salt • 6 cubes of Maggi (or other bouillon cube)
Make the Suya Pepper: 1. Crush peanuts in a Ziploc bag using the bottom of a frying pan, or a rolling pin 2. After well-crushed (as fine as possible), place peanuts in paper towels to soak out the oil 3. When peanuts are mostly dry, place them in a bowl; add the rest of the ingredients and mix well 4. Strain the mixture to remove any clumps; the final mix should be like a powder Make the beef: 1. Add thin-cut beef to a pot with enough water to almost cover it 2. When boiling, add salt and pepper to taste 3. After beef is cooked through, drain excess water 4. Add desired amount of Suya Pepper to the beef and mix until evenly coated 5. Broil beef in the oven for 15-20 minutes, until slightly dry and crisp Make the peppers and okra: 1. Slice onion, peppers, and okra 2. Pour oil into a frying pan or skillet; add onion, peppers, and okra 3. Add salt and pepper to taste, then add desired amount of Suya Pepper 4. Plate vegetables next to beef and sprinkle with more Suya Pepper (if you’re brave!)
Additional ingredients: • 1 pound thin-cut beef or flank steak • Water • Salt • Pepper • 1 small onion • 3 bell peppers • 1 lb. okra • 1 tbsp. olive oil
RECIPE 27
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