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dear foodies & friends It is with happy hearts and loudly growling stomachs that we present to you the Winter 2019 issue of Bite Magazine! Yes, this Chicago winter has been particularly dreadful (50 degrees below zero, really?!), but we hope that the next 25 colorful pages inspire you to brave the windchill, hop on the L, and explore all of the culinary gems this city has to offer. Or maybe just stay in your apartment and let your oven warm you as you try one of our recipes. Either way, by the time you finish going on each and every gastronomic adventure this issue has in store for you, spring will be upon us and the warmth will defrost your bones (except for when it inevitably snows in April). Speaking of ovens, it’s about time you preheated yours to 400ºF and tried your hand at our Japanese Sweet Potato Pie (24). Or, for a more savory pie option, try the Steak and Ale Pie (24), a British classic (yeah, we know that’s a lot of pie for a 27 page magazine, but when it’s cold, we like pies. Sue us). If you would rather leave that for the bakers, instead venture out to Bai Café in Lakeview for some traditional Central Asian hand-pulled noodles, or perhaps Ina Mae Tavern (7) for a steaming heap of fried chicken and waffles. Maybe you are looking to heat things up in the kitchen; check out That’s Hot (20), our guide on just how to use all of those curious containers in your spice cabinet. As you read through these pages, we hope you enjoy reading it (and drooling over the pictures) as much as we enjoyed creating it! See you in the spring!
the editors 2
bite | winter 2019
table of contents 5 bayan ko 6 friistyle 7 ina mae tavern 8 beograd 9 bai cafe 10 kopi luwak 12 The form of food 16 chiya chai 18 antonia lofaso 20 that’s hot 22 japanese sweet potato pie 23 ginger molasses cookies 24 steak and ale pie 26 Mafroum Editor-in-Chief paige resnick Managing editor Melanie wang creative director suhasni singh blog editor alyce oh photography director yarra elmasry communications director michelle zhou programming DIRECTOR michelle gao designers bonnie hu, elaine wan, emily her, evan xiang, grace bridges, jihana mendu, nora lin, QINGFENG CHAI writers amanda wilson, ben miller, ed schmeltzer, emily kang, jane fraipont, joseph donahue, katie mcpolin, lily levine, moyo abiona, sarah peabody, seth markow, tori lawless, wendy zheng photographers alden Herrera, angela sha, ANGELA FUNG, brandon Zang, cam lam, grace peguese, giovanna DeCastro, george Saieed, julia Rose Camus, shreya Minama Reddy COVER PHOTO Brandon zang
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bite | winter 2019
Credits: Angela Sha, Brandon Zang, Julia Rose Camus, Yarra Elmasry
inside the issue
>> NEIGHBORHOOD RAVENSWOOD >> PRICES
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CROQUETA TOTS LUGLUG NOODLES UBE SUNDAE
REVIEW
BAYAN KO
BY AMANDA WILSON PHOTOS BY JULIA ROSE CAMUS
In a city with small Cuban and Filipino populations, it is particularly intriguing to find a fusion of the two cultures. Enter Bayan Ko, the brainchild of Chef Lawrence Letrero and front-of-house exec Raquel Quadreny. Both are the children of first-generation immigrants–Filipino for Letrero and Cuban for Quadreny, and it’s evident in the authenticity of the bright flavors and comforting, homey feel of the dishes. For the most part, each dish in itself does not fuse the two cuisines. Instead, the menu features Cuban and Filipino standards individually, such as ropa vieja and a lovely el cubano sandwich from the Cuban side, then oxtail kare kare and crispy chicken adobo wings from the Filipino side. The most prominent exception is the croqueta tots, bite-sized balls of cheesy smoked ham, breaded, fried, and served with a Jufran–Filipino banana ketchup–aioli. Rather than stilting the meal, keeping the cuisines separate allows Letrero to put his own spin on Cuban and Filipino classics. Luglug noodles, a riff on the Filipino street food “pancit luglug”, features chewy stir-fried rice noodles stained yellow with saffron and a raw egg yolk nestled on top, finished with uni and some of the best-cooked scallops in the city: beautifully golden on only one side to maintain the silken, ribbed texture of the shellfish. The lumpia shanghai takes
thin Filipino spring rolls and stuffs them with a pork-and-scallion filling reminiscent of Shanghainese xiao long bao, hence the name. In the bayan lechon, a crisp salad of pickled green papaya cuts through fried pork belly to lend enough punch to make even the fatty meat’s harshest critics think twice. Perfect black beans and sweet caramelized maduros need no reinvention. While the menu leans slightly toward the Filipino side, Letrero does a great job of highlighting dishes from both cuisines to complement each other for every course of the meal. Dessert here is a must. There are only two options, but neither disappoints. Letrero’s salted caramel flan is thick and rich, less gelatinous than a typical Spanish flan due to the Philippine-inspired addition of extra egg yolks and sweetened condensed milk. The other is a derivative of a popular Filipino shaved ice dessert: a scoop of vibrant purple ube ice cream sits in a bed of red beans, tender young coconut, and a spoonful of the same decadent flan to create a whimsical ube sundae. The décor is fun and carefree. One wall is almost completely obscured by a mural of flowers and vines, and a fork-andspoon mirrored mosaic hangs opposite it. The restaurant only seats 30 people, so be sure to make reservations in advance–it would be a true shame to miss out on such a delightful and unique dining experience. reviews
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REVIEW
FRIISTYLE BY KATIE MCPOLIN PHOTOS BY ANGELA FUNG >> NEIGHBORHOOD BRONZEVILLE >> PRICES
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>> DISHES TO TRY LOBSTER FRITES
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bite | winter 2019
When I went to visit FriiStyle, I already had a deep love for french fries. I figured I was well-acquainted with just about all the iterations of this starchy old friend, whether curly, crinkle-cut, or waffle. While I was expecting FriiStyle to be a great destination for a late afternoon snack, I was not anticipating the wide range of filling, vibrant entrees available–and they are all based in french fries! I use the term “french fry” loosely here, as the offerings at FriiStyle are actually much more. The restaurant specializes in serving Belgian-style pommes frites, a more substantial cousin to the humble American fry. Pommes frites are cut thicker, fried twice, and–most importantly–are intended to be the foundation of a full meal, rather than a side dish. At FriiStyle, they have frites on the menu ranging from chicken alfredo, to jerk salmon, to hot wings. Even though I visited on a frosty January morning, I felt like it was the middle of summer as soon as I walked in; music was playing, sunlight was streaming in through the massive front window, and everyone behind the counter was chatting and laughing as they opened the restaurant for the day.
I decided on the Caribbean Shrimp frites–a bright combo of Jerk shrimp, pineapple salsa, and coconut crema. I must admit, I was intrigued by this piña colada crema, and I was ready for these frites to transport me to somewhere far, far away from Chicago in mid-January. The fries were crispy, even under the layers of shrimp and crema, and the salsa had generous helpings of pineapple and cilantro (my weakness!). Not only was it beautiful to look at, it was also a great meal that sparkled with fresh fruit and vegetables, making it feel light, rather than greasy. The piña colada crema was an interesting bonus, though next time, I look forward to exploring more of the more savory options. Angela ordered the Lobster frites, which tasted like a stroll down the boardwalk and looked equally beautiful. They serve as a bright and refreshing jolt to anyone’s taste buds in the cold winter. Eating at FriiStyle was perhaps the closest (right off the 51st Green Line stop!) I could get to summer for now. I can’t wait to see what it’s like in a few months, when I can pick up a box for a picnic at the Point or sit in by the open main window and take everything in.
Ina Mae Tavern, a New Orleans corner-store inspired tavern and bar, is situated just off the bustling Milwaukee Avenue in Wicker Park. The restaurant inhabits a red brick building; its long side boasts a series of tall glass doors that open out onto the street, while a sno-ball window (its presence indicated by a large sign above it) is the main feature of the short side. That’s right, sno-balls have migrated from New Orleans to Chicago: they are icy treats made of thinly shaved ice and doused in a wave of sugary, flavored syrups. A quintessential summer treat, they can be found in New Orleans at old-school shops like Plum Street Snoballs, or at newer stands that focus on in-house syrups, like Imperial Woodpecker. Ina Mae honors its Louisiana roots with its own sno-ball stand, where the restaurant serves up the icy treat so rarely found up north. On the inside, the space is sprinkled with wooden tables and a bar with welcoming brown leather seats; muted brick walls add to the laid-back vibe. At brunch on a chilly weekend, the food was warm, plentiful, and flavorful - aided occasionally by a few drops of the house’s own hot sauce. An order of fried chicken and waffles arrived on a white enameled plate, and was warm enough to melt the hearty dollop of butter served alongside it. The chicken was crispy but never greasy, and underneath the waffle there was a pleasant surprise: a wonderfully rich bit of gravy. A dish of gumbo was served, somewhat irreverently, in a mug made of the same enameled metal as the plate. Despite the unique presentation, the stew itself was rich and hearty, packed with shrimp, crab, chicken, andouille sausage, and okra. Together, the blend of spices and ingredients combined to form a wonderfully thick, complex, and flavorful dish, albeit in a mug. Although the tavern is less than a block off Milwaukee Avenue, it is much removed from the noise, offering a calm respite where one can feel at home and encouraged to stuff oneself full of faithful Southern fare.
REVIEW
INA MAE TAVERN BY JOSEPH DONAHUE PHOTOS BY GRACE PEGUESE >> NEIGHBORHOOD
WICKER PARK >> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
FRIED CHICKEN AND WAFFLES reviews
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Beograd, a Serbian cafe and staple of the Northwest side’s Irving Park neighborhood since 1984, is about as close to an Old World Balkan cafe as you can find within 15 minutes of the Loop. Young men chat idly at high-top tables beneath dozens of Serbian movie posters. Customers meander in and out of the adjoining Serbian grocery with bundles of meat in hand. The walls are studded with collages of painted newspapers and embossed cyrillic letters, and a fireplace crackles in the back. The service is as friendly as it is leisurely. On a frigid Chicago winter day, Beograd is the ideal place to warm up and fill your stomach with hearty Serbian fare. As with typical Balkan cuisine, meats are the stars of the show, and Beograd’s Mixed Sampler Plate offers an overwhelming quantity of the best the cafe can grill up. All is prepared with a slight yet delectable char and flavored with Serbian cuisine’s go-to spices of garlic, black pepper, and paprika. The standout is Serbia’s national dish: pljeskavica, a hamburger-esque blend of pork, beef, and lamb whose deep umami flavors pair perfectly with the sweet onions and sour cream it is served alongside. Among the sausages, Beograd’s chevapchichi, a reddish sausage made of beef and lamb, transcends other options with its comparative tenderness and assertive but not aggressive, bite. 8
bite | winter 2019
The rich and hearty flavors of Beograd are hardly confined to the carnivorous. Solid meatless options can be found in the restaurant’s selection of palačinke, or Serbian crepes, which have more heft than their French counterparts and fill you up almost as quickly as the cafe’s meats do. In a similar vein, no visit would be complete without sampling the burek, a filo-covered pie loaded with potatoes, onions, and a host of other stuffing options. The crunchy and bubbly dish–Beograd’s house specialty–weighs multiple pounds and is effectively impossible for any one (or perhaps even two) people to finish in one sitting. For those who have survived for a final course, Beograd’s deep dessert menu proffers dozens of traditional Balkan sweets. For a rich and hearty conclusion to a rich and hearty meal, look to the reforma cake–a chocolate mousse layered between crumbled almonds and served in a borderline preposterous portion. The mousse is rich and dense but not overly sweet, with almonds adding in a salty contrast. Beograd offers a well-executed take on the classic flavors and dishes of Serbian cuisine. There is no better to place to wick away the cold, bask in the warmth of a bustling yet cozy eatery, and come home with a box brimming with leftovers.
REVIEW
BEOGRAD BY BEN MILLER PHOTOS BY GEORGE SAIEED >> NEIGHBORHOOD IRVING PARK >> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
PRZENICE SERBIAN TOAST KARADJORDJE’S STEAK PORK PROSCIUTTO CREPE
Since coming to Chicago, I’ve been on a never ending quest to find a restaurant that can replicate the hand-pulled noodles from my mom’s hometown in Northwestern China. Although there are multiple establishments offering Xi’an style hand pulled noodles in Chicago’s Chinatown, none of these restaurants serve them smothered in the savory tomato sauce of my childhood. However, one day, I unexpectedly stumbled upon the lagman at Bai Cafe, a Central Asian rendition of Chinese hand pulled noodles that brought me straight back to my grandfather’s apartment in Lanzhou. Bai Cafe is a halal Kyrgyz - Central Asian restaurant with an unassuming storefront underneath the train tracks near the Paulina brown line station in Lakeview. Similar to Jibek Jolu in Lincoln Square and Euro Asia in the Near North Side, Bai Cafe specializes in comforting meat-centric dishes and is open seven days a week from 9 AM to 3 AM; the affordable, filling fare and extended hours
cater primarily to Turkish, Central Asian, and Russian cab drivers. The first things I noticed when walking into the restaurant were the the large elevated booths, decorated with large plush pillows and an intricate rug --– a perfect environment for taking a post lunch nap after a hearty meal. Bai, the namesake owner of the cafe, seemed to be the only person working both the front and the kitchen when my friend and I walked in, and he kindly led us to a clean booth once we entered. After taking off our shoes and situating ourselves amongst the cushions, we ordered shorpo (a lamb and potato soup), lagman (beef and bell peppers in a tomato sauce on top of hand pulled noodles), oromo (a Kyrgyz circular steamed beef dumpling), pelmeni (homemade triangular boiled beef dumplings) and one beef samsy (baked filled pastry) to split. The food at Bai Cafe was the epitome of home cooking. Each piping hot dish came out remarkably fast, and the plates were
>> NEIGHBORHOOD LAKEVIEW >> PRICES $ >> DISHES TO TRY PELMENI, LAGMAN
humongous despite being half portions. The lamb in the shorpo was incredibly tender, and the soft bread was the ideal vehicle to soak up the full-bodied broth. Although the oromo, pelmeni, and samsa were all stuffed with the same juicy beef and onion filling, the wrappers made each dumpling variation distinct and delightful --- the thicker skin of the oromo, flaky pastry of the samsa, and wonton-esque lightness of the pelmeni each created a unique textural sensation. However, the highlight of the meal for me was the lagman, as the first bite of the wonderfully bouncy hand-pulled noodles accompanied by the slightly tart tomato sauce and melt-in-your-mouth tender beef made me feel right at home. As the Kyrgyz population continues to grow in Chicago, Bai Cafe will continue to prove itself as an invaluable community space with its delicious comforting fare, compassionate owners, and accessible prices.
REVIEW
BAI CAFE BY WENDY ZHENG PHOTOS BY BRANDON ZANG
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KOPI LUWAK BY SARAH PEABODY // ILLUSTRATIONS BY QINGFENG CHAI
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bite | winter 2019
IMAGINE THIS: You’re in a breathtaking forest in Indonesia and you’ve spent the whole day seeing crazy new things and tasting amazing foods. You end up in a small coffee shop to watch the sunset and a local suggests that you try their “cat poop coffee.” Naturally, you’re intrigued and order it, despite the inordinate price tag. The only problem is, you’re not given any heads up to the background of the coffee, which is more of an eccentric thing to post about on Instagram than anything else.
WHAT IS CAT POOP COFFEE? Otherwise known as Kopi Luwak–which translates to coffee from Luwak–it is coffee brewed from beans that have been digested through the Asian Palm Civet, a type of cat native to Southeast Asia, otherwise known as “Luwak”. It started out in Indonesia when it was under the Dutch rule as the locals were forced to farm as much coffee as possible for their colonial powers and were forbidden from having some of their own. The coffee plantation workers soon found that at night, the Luwak would eat the coffee cherries and excrete the coffee beans in their full, non-digested form. Once the workers discovered a way to consume this coffee, they also realised that the civet-produced coffee was significantly more flavourful than the original. This practice has spread to other Southeast Asian countries such as the Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia, and has now become a kind of “specialty coffee” for tourists today. However, the increase in tourism and the exoticism of the drink resulted in widespread demand for this rare coffee. Nowadays, about 80% of sold or marketed Kopi Luwak is fake, as it is so hard to come by organically. Originally, harvesting authentic Kopi Luwak would require someone to hunt around the rainforest for the excrement of an animal with a small appetite–this is sometimes equated to finding “poop truffles.” The difficulty of this has led to the industrialization of the process. The civet cats are caged in abysmal, cramped conditions and force-fed coffee cherries all throughout the day. They are put into an environment completely different from their nocturnal and natural habitats, and often become malnourished and even maim themselves in sheer desperation. Considering how unfortunate Kopi Luwak’s process of production is, it’s surprising how little media coverage there is. The ]animal cruelty cases that gather enough attention are usually developed countries such as with France–in the case of foie gras. Meanwhile, cases regarding Kopi Luwak in developing areas stay nearly unnoticed. In addition to the Kopi Luwak, there is elephant “refined” coffee from Thailand, Jacu bird coffee from Brazil, and even Rhesus monkey coffee from India–all of which retail around 50 times more expensive than an average cup of Joe and, unbeknownst to many, at a high cost for the animals.
features
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BY CAM LAM
THE FORM OF FOOD 12
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bite | winter 2019
features
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BY PH MO Y O SH TO O A S B BI RE YA Y ON A MI NA MA RE DD Y
CH CH AI
IYA
Once I found Chiya Chai and swung its door open, the first thing that hit me was the smell of chai. While that is to be expected—chai is in the café’s name—the warming scent of spice is particularly welcoming on a dreary Chicago day. The café itself is simply decorated and open. Relying mostly on natural light, the cafe also has a few orangey light bulbs that create a warm, cozy atmosphere. There is an unfinished quality to the dark brick walls and exposed concrete, it’s reminiscent of relics of a time now gone by. The bar, the centerpiece of the space, features blue tiles in a geometric pattern and mismatched chairs with a backyard feel. The kitchen, located at the other end of the café, is visible through a small window. A gong rings out softly when an order is ready. Overall, it’s like being in a cooler Starbucks. To get a sampling of the café’s Nepalese-inspired menu, we ordered a few (ok, more than a few) dishes: Masala Curry Fries, Hot Curry Wings, Creamy Masala Chicken, Veggie Dumplings, and the Kale and Potato Pie. We received our entire order within 25 minutes. The dishes featured bold, appetizing colors and smelled of earthy spices. We went for the fries right away, which had a flavorful masala spice rub and a slightly spicy masala sauce. The wings were covered in a shiny sweet and sour glaze. The chicken masala was tender, though it lacked heat, as did the dumplings. I was most excited for the pie with its buttery, flaky crust. The kale was tender and flavorful, though the potatoes were a bit too soft. While the flavor was strong at first, it didn’t linger after the initial bite, and again, the filling could’ve used a bit more heat. The pie was also
served with a too-sweet mango sauce and a surprisingly refreshing apple chutney, which added a tart flavor. Now for the main highlight: the chai! I had never had chai before, so I didn’t really have many expectations. My companions were much more familiar and guided me through our chai tasting. We asked the kind barista for chai recommendations, and he explained that the menu listed chai flavors from least daring to most daring. To get a taste of the flavor levels, we ordered Masala (a classic), Cardamom-Pistachio (something a bit more interesting), and Salty Pink Himalayan with Almond Butter (it speaks for itself).We started off with the Masala, which was comforting and flavorful, though the spicy version might have been richer. The Cardamom-Pistachio, to our surprise, featured small chunks of actual pistachio. The cardamom flavor was a little too subtle and mellow, but we agreed that this one tasted the most homemade. Finally, we tried the Salty Pink Himalayan with Almond Butter. The nutty scent of almond was strong, and we could definitely taste the almond butter. However, since the almond flavor was so strong, it was difficult to find the saltiness in the drink. Overall, my first chai experience was delicious and satisfying, though I wished for a bit more spice. Chiya Chai is a great place to visit with friends for food and chai. It is pretty affordable (we spent about $55 for our lunch) and has a wide array of options. Whether you’re looking for a new place to study, or trying to run away from your studies, the café is inviting, welcoming, and sure to please. features
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an interview with
ANTONIA LOFASO 18
bite | winter 2019
BY LILY LEVINE Nestled in the trendy, industrial corner of Downtown LA’s Fashion District rests Los Angeles’s newest and chicest pan-Latin restaurant, DAMA. A former banana distribution warehouse, the site has been transformed into that of a cozy, tropical lounge, complete with dim lighting over an expansive bar, playfully patterned floors, and lush suspended plants. This newest establishment is led by chef and partner, Antonia Lofaso.
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ntonia Lofaso is an acclaimed ItalianAmerican chef based in Los Angeles who combines flavors from all over the world to create unique, succulent, and magnificent dishes for her three restaurants. She trained at the elite French Culinary Institute and became famous in the public eye by placing fourth on Top Chef: Chicago in 2008 and third on Top Chef: All-Stars three years later. She has also been featured on numerous other competitive cooking shows, such Guy’s Grocery Games as a competitor and Cutthroat Kitchen as a judge. Lofaso lives in Los Angeles with her daughter, Xea, and enjoys traveling to gain new inspiration.
food, Korean comfort food, Southern comfort food, etc. that is well executed with top line quality ingredients – except for Hellman’s mayonnaise. I love Hellman’s mayonnaise. I know you own Scopa Italian Roots, Black Market Liquor Bar, and now DAMA in LA. what was your inspiration for those restaurants, and what experience do you hope to impart on your diners? Each one of the venues has a different concept – Scopa is American-Italian that will take you back and remind you of the boroughs of New York, Black
I don’t have a single person who has been the biggest influence, but rather a team of individuals who have helped mentor and shape who I am as a chef today. How did you begin cooking and at what age? how did you know you wanted to be a chef ? To be honest, I can’t remember a time that I was not cooking! I grew up in an American-Italian family, which meant weekly family gatherings with an entire spread of homemade Italian classics – but my first time that I knew I loved cooking was when I discovered JELLO. I asked my parents for a JELLO mold and cookbook – and made JELLO for 30 days straight. Every night dinner would be served, and I would proudly walk to the table and present the evening’s JELLO. The rest is history! What led you to audition for Top Chef originally, and what has your experience been like, having been on it for 2 different seasons? Has your experience being a judge on Cutthroat Kitchen given you a different perspective? At the time, I was a young mom who was presented with an opportunity to be a part of some new cooking competition – and I said, why not? The experience is tough. It’s a lot of time away from your friends and family and a lot of high pressure challenges, but ultimately, it is those experiences as a contestant that have helped me be a better judge – not only on Cutthroat Kitchen, but recently on Top Chef Jr., Iron Chef America and Guy’s Grocery Games. I know what they’ve been through. I’ve stood where they are and have felt the pressure of the clock counting down. I also know what it feels like to be judged – and how important it is that my feedback be constructive and verbalized in a way that it can be received and understood. What is your signature dish? I don’t have a signature dish, but more of a signature style – which I would explain as a love of comfort food from any culture whether its Japanese comfort
Market Liquor Bar has a more intimate speakeasy feel, and DAMA allows you to escape LA and enter into your favorite tropical memory. But ultimately, my partners and I wanted to create environments that consistently deliver hospitality, quality and a shared experience. What would you say are the latest food trends, and what are your predictions for the future of restaurants and dining? Right now, I think Latin-America is getting a lot of exposure worldwide. My chef de cuisine was just traveling in France and discovered a Oaxacan fastcasual restaurant – which was very unexpected! We are living in a world that is more accessible than ever. The “traditional” rules of food are going to be reinvented and are being redefined. Who has been your biggest influence? I don’t have a single person who has been the biggest influence, but rather a team of individuals who have helped mentor and shape who I am as a chef today. First, my family who I spent a lot of time in the kitchen including my grandmother, mom and aunts. My professors during my years in culinary school and my incredible mentors since then that I’ve been able to work for and with throughout my career. The restaurant industry is very Caucasian-male dominated, as seen in Gordon Ramsay, Bobby Flay, Wolfgang Puck, Jamie Oliver, etc. Have you faced any disadvantages or challenges being a woman in this field? Kitchens are more diverse than what you see on television. And although there are factually less female chefs than male chefs, it is some of those male chefs who have shaped and formed who I am today and have been my champions for me having a successful career. features
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BY EMILY KANG PHOTOS BY ALDEN HERRERA
THAT’S HOT SPICE. HEAT. KICK.
Whatever you call it, one thing is clear: people love food that makes them sweat. Whether it’s a flash of heat that immediately sends you running for water or a slow burn that keeps you on simmer, if you love spicy food, there’s nothing like a well-spiced dish to satisfy a desire for fire. With thousands of varieties of hot peppers and countless other foods with a burn, the opportunities to add a kick to your dish are nearly endless, and it can be difficult to choose the right spice to get the heat you crave. How many flavors of spicy can there really be? Turns out, a lot.
CHILI POWDER
For a warm, mild, and slightly smoky heat, use chili powder. Commercial chili powder is a blend of ground red chili, garlic, and salt. Some blends may include other spices, such as cumin, coriander, onion powder, or black pepper; this lends these blends a Southwestern or Latin flair, depending on proportions. Commercial chili powders are also generally vague in what type of chili actually goes into the powder, so each blend has its own specific character. Many varieties use cayenne or a similar pepper.
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CAYENNE POWDER
Cayenne is a sharp heat that can make itself felt immediately. Though it is commonly found in chili powder blends, ground cayenne on its own may be a good choice for dishes where you want sharp, immediate heat without adding smoky notes. Its spice level is somewhere between that of a jalapeno and a habanero, so it can add an intense kick without being too overpowering in a recipe. Be careful when storing cayenne, as it quickly loses its bite in ground form and will grow less spicy and complex over time. Buying it in small quantities and storing it away from heat will help to preserve the quality of the spice in time.
RED PEPPER FLAKES
Red pepper flakes, also called crushed red pepper, are primarily composed of crushed cayenne peppers, but they take on a different flavor profile from their powdered cousin. The coarser texture prevents the spicy flavor from dominating a dish and delivers a pop of heat when bitten. It infuses its surroundings with a kick over time, making it ideal for pickling liquids or infusing oils. It’s also an excellent topping for pizzas and pastas to add a subtle, slightly sweet kick.
POWDERED GINGER
The only non-pepper based spice in this list, powdered ginger is a warm, floral spice made of dried ginger root. While ginger certainly packs a considerable punch at first bite, it shines when it can slowly build background warmth in a dish. Its sweet heat pairs nicely with other sweet foods, such as sweet potatoes, roasted carrots, or (of course) gingerbread cookies and other baked goods. Southeast Asian in origin, it is also a natural addition to stir fry, ramen broth, and more. Powdered ginger is an excellent option to diversify and complicate the flavor profile of a spicy dish.
HOT CURRY POWDER
Hot curry powders generally combine fenugreek, coriander, turmeric, ground chili pepper, cumin, ginger, black pepper, and garlic. Different types and quantity of ground chili determine the level of spice in the blend. Heavy in turmeric and cumin, these blends lend food a beautiful golden color and a slight bitterness while the fenugreek adds a sweet, nutty quality. Though each blend will be slightly different, curry powder generally adds a beautiful depth and complexity to dishes with heat that builds slowly and provides a powerful punch.
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BY JANE FRAIPONT PHOTOS BY ANGELA SHA
JAPANESE SWEET POTATO PIE
WITH KINAKO CRUST
Japanese sweet potatoes are great roasted, but even better in a pie. This simple pie is a variation of a classic, comforting recipe–it boasts a nuanced flavor and easy homemade crust. Japanese sweet potatoes, purple on the outside and white on the inside, are sweeter and starchier than their orange counterparts that are typically used in sweet potato pies. This recipe pairs their subtle flavor with the nuttiness of roasted soybean flour added into the crust. This flour, known as kinako, is available online as well as in most Asian supermarkets. No food processor? No problem! Handmade butter pie crusts are often viewed as finicky and difficult, but are easy and forgiving if you use the right techniques and keep your butter cold. This super-flaky crust can be made entirely by hand using only your fingers and a large bowl. Substitute the kinako for all-purpose flour, and the crust can be used for any sweet or savory pie or quiche.
cook
prep 1 hour 1 hour 45 minutes makes 9-inch pie
GET
For filling: 2 lbs Japanese sweet potato ½ cup sugar ¼ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp salt 5 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 2 large eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 tbsp coconut cream For crust 1 cup + 2 tbsp all-purpose flour 2 tbsp roasted soybean flour (kinako) ½ tsp iodized salt 8 tbsp cold unsalted butter 4-6 tbsp ice water, as needed Recipe adapted from: https://nyti.ms/2TQ8dHQ
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bite | winter 2019
DO
1. Preheat the oven to 400ºF 2. When at temperature, wrap the sweet potatoes in tinfoil and roast until tender all the way through, 4560 minutes depending on size. 3. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, kinako, and salt. 4. Place the mixture in the freezer while cutting the butter into ½ to ¼ inch cubes. Add the butter to the flour mixture, and toss to combine. 5. Using your fingers, flatten the cubes of butter thinly until no thick chunks remain, tossing in flour to prevent sticking. 6. Gently mix and rub the butter into any remaining dry flour to evenly disperse. If at any point the butter begins to warm up or feel soft, stick the bowl in the freezer for 5 minutes to cool everything down. 7. Drizzle in ice water a tablespoon at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition to ensure even hydration of flour. After about 4 tablespoons, the dough should start to come together. 8. Squeeze some of the dough–if it holds together and does not immediately crumble, turn the dough out onto a work surface. If not, add more ice water and test again. 9. Gather together the dough and press it into a disk, about an inch thick. If it doesn’t hold its shape, knead a few times. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate while preparing the filling. 10. Whisk together the sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. 11. Peel the cooked potatoes, and puree in a food processor or chop and mash with a fork. 12. Add the potatoes, butter, and vanilla to the sugar mixture. Stir to combine. 13. Beat the eggs with the coconut cream, and add to the potato mixture. Stir to combine. 14. Lower the oven temperature to 350ºF. 15. On a floured surface, dust both sides of the chilled dough with flour, and roll into a circle about 12 inches in diameter, or 2 inches wider than your pie pan. 16. Lift the crust into the pan, and trim the edges so that there is about ¼ inch overhang. Fold the overhanging dough under to form a double-thickness edge. Crimp the edge with a fork or your fingers. 17. Pour filling into the crust and spread evenly. 18. Freeze for at least 10 minutes before baking. 19. Once chilled, bake the pie for about 50 minutes, until it has set. 20. Let the pie cool to room temperature before serving. Dust the pie with extra kinako and powdered sugar, and serve with whipped cream.
GINGER MOLASSES COOKIES BY TORI LAWLESS
PHOTOS BY ALDEN HERRERA
30 minutes 20 minutes makes ~18 cookies prep
cook
GET 1 ½ sticks unsalted butter, room temperature ⅓ cup white sugar, plus extra for assembly ⅓ cup brown sugar 1 egg yolk 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and grated ½ cup molasses 1 cup white flour 1 cup whole wheat flour 1 tsp baking soda 1 ½ tsp cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp salt ⅓ cup crystallized ginger, finely chopped
The average soft molasses cookie gets a major upgrade here. Boasting three different forms of ginger, these cookies have just the right amount of heat and sweetness to keep you coming back for more. Molasses imparts a chewy texture and rich color in these cookies. Plus, coating the dough in sugar just prior to baking creates a satisfying crunchy exterior and eyecatching, sparkly finish. While I prefer these cookies with a cup of tea on a cold winter day, they’re also perfect to bring along to a special occasion, where they’re sure to be the star of the show! If you’ve ever worked with molasses before, you know it can be a pain to get out of a container. Here’s a tip: spray the inside of your liquid measuring cup with cooking spray before measuring the molasses to prevent a sticky mess. Also, the cookies will still be soft to the touch upon removing from the oven, so make sure to let them set for about 5 min before handling, if you can resist!
DO 1. Preheat oven to 375° F. 2. Cream butter and sugars using electric mixer on medium high speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add egg yolk, vanilla, and fresh ginger. Stream in molasses, mixing until fully combined. 3. Whisk dry ingredients in separate bowl, then add to wet ingredients in batches, including the crystallized ginger in the last addition. Mix until no dry spots remain, switching to a rubber spatula if needed to prevent overmixing. 4. Shape dough into balls of ~2 inch diameter, using hands or ice cream scoop. Roll tops in white sugar and place on parchmentlined baking sheet, leaving enough room in between for cookies to spread. 5. Bake for 11-12 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes on baking sheet before transferring to wire rack to fully cool. This recipe was featured as part of Bite Magazine’s video series. To see the recipe in action, check out UChicago Bite on Facebook. recipes
23
cook
3 hours 30 minutes
makes
6-8
prep
GET For onions 3 onions1 1 tbsp butter For crust2 500g all-purpose flour 200g butter, diced3 Pinch of salt For the filling 1.5-2lb beef brisket, cut into chunks4 5 strips of bacon cut in lardons 3 tbsp plain/all purpose flour 3 tbsp olive oil 1 bottle of brown ale5 2 chopped garlic cloves caramelized onions 1/2 lb carrots 2 bay leaves 1.25 cups of beef stock6 1tbsp tomato puree 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1/2 lb shiitake mushrooms 1/2 lb portobello mushrooms some thyme, rosemary salt and pepper 24
bite | winter 2019
STEAK AND ALE PIE BY ED SCHMELTZER // PHOTOS BY BRANDON ZANG So. In case you haven’t met me, dear reader, I am from an island far away called Great Britain—a magical land of queens and metric systems, entertaining accents and (according to many I’ve asked) literally one form of food—and not a particularly special one, either. (Fried fish and fried potatoes ‘aren’t particularly groundbreaking’? How could you say that?) Unfortunately, if I’m entirely honest, I’m not that surprised about our national culinary stereotypes. British food isn’t particularly sexy. It lacks the refinement (and sticks upon sticks of butter) of French dishes or the precision of Japanese cuisine. The ingredients are nothing particularly groundbreaking—the exciting fermented foodstuffs that are so popular nowadays will, unfortunately, need to stay at home. I’m not doing a very good job of selling it, am I? (I bloody knew it). Alright. I will grant you that British food lacks the aesthetics or excitement of other cuisines. However, fitting for life on a small, rain-soaked outcropping in the Atlantic, British food is just incredibly comforting. It’s filling and warm. It takes
simple, cheap, easy ingredients and transforms them into something that tastes like being curled up in front of a crackling fire with a good book while freezing, sleet batters at the windows. A feeling that is perfect as we trudge into the winter quarter and endure grey skies and temperatures that I honestly thought only occurred in the Arctic. (Come to Chicago, they tell you. Learn at this institution, they tell you. Well, they didn’t tell me I’d be living on the planet Hoth). The dish that I believe most firmly embodies this is one that I’ve been tinkering with for a while now—a savory steak pie with caramelized onions and an ale/beef-stock-based stew. It’s a balance of sweet onions and savory, tender steak all wrapped up in a buttery crust. Make it for your friends! Make it for yourself! Make it for…I don’t know? I’m not in control of your life—do whatever you want. Just enjoy it, dammit!
DO Caramelized Onions 1. Thinly slice all three onions, combine with the butter in a pan. 2. Cook down for 30 minutes on medium heat, or until sweet, jammy and deep, deep brown. 3. Set aside. Crust 4. Take the flour and combine with the butter and salt. Pinch the butter and flour with your fingertips and mix until you get something that resembles lumpy breadcrumbs. Think particularly coarse panko. 5. Add enough water to the dough to bring it together. It should stay together, but still be stiff and not gloopy. 6. Wrap in saran wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Pie Time 7. Fry the bacon. 8. In a bowl, mix beef chunks with the flour and pinches of salt and pepper. Ensure beef is evenly coated. 9. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil and fry half of the beef on mediumhigh heat until all sides are browned. (We are doing it in two halves to ensure the beef browns, not sweats). When done, deglaze with beer, scrape up the fond and dump everything into a bowl. Rinse out the pan, dry and repeat. 10. When the beef is browned and reserved, add another tbsp of oil and the herbs, carrots, mushrooms and garlic. Sautée until soft. 11. Add beef, caramelized onions, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, stock and ale to the vegetable mix. 12. Simmer for two hours at least, or until the beef is tender and can be easily broken apart by a butter knife. 13. Roll out the crust from the fridge, butter a baking dish and line it with the crust. 14. When ready, take the stew off the stove, leave for 30 minutes, then deposit into the baking dish. 15. Cover with more pastry, crimp edges, cut air holes and brush with beaten egg. 16. Bake at 390 degrees for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown. (Go with your gut here, depending on size the pie may take more or less time to bake).
1. Get three different types of onion. If you do that, you get some nice, subtle variation in onion flavor and texture when those bad boys caramelize. I used red, yellow and Spanish onions. 2. OK. SO. IF YOU CAN FIND FROZEN SHORTCRUST PASTRY, USE IT. Pastry isn’t an easy thing. Frozen, pre-prepped pastry is so much easier. There’s no shame in it. Hell, I don’t usually make my own, but I couldn’t find any frozen. So here we are. 3. I lied about the butter. British food has so much butter. 4. The Internet, if you decide to consult its wisdom, will tell you to use braising steak. This can be done, but please don’t. You may have to cut the brisket yourself, but it has fat, which braising steak does not. This stops it from drying out while cooking and results in a richer, more glossy stock. 5. Brown ale. What the hell is that? Well, anything that says, ‘brown ale’ (no duh) or ‘porter’. Use Guinness, even. As long as it’s dark, you’re good to go. A 12oz bottle should do fine. 6. Just fill the beer bottle with stock if you’re wanting for a measuring vessel. If you can’t get beer, double up on the stock.
recipes
25
MAFROUM BY SETH MARKOW PHOTOS BY YARRA ELMASRY
Mafroum, a North African dish of potatoes stuffed with ground beef and herbs, proves that any vegetable can be stuffed with meat. Mafroum in Arabic means minced, and refers to the ground beef used to stuff the potatoes. If you don’t want to make the tomato sauce, you can buy a jar instead; I’d recommend using a nonseasoned one. This recipe was adapted from the cookbook Israeli Soul by Michael Solomonov and Stephen Cook.
50 minutes 40 minutes makes 3-4 servings prep
cook
GET 2 large potatoes ½ pound ground beef ¼ cup chopped parsley ½ onion, finely chopped/ grated 3 cloves garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon paprika ¼ teaspoon ground coriander seed ¼ teaspoon cumin ¼ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon salt 2 eggs 1 cup bread crumbs 1 tablespoon olive oil 14 oz tomato sauce
26 bite | winter 2019
DO 1. Preheat oven to 450ºF 2. Peel potatoes, and cut off rounded tips to get two large cylinders. Cut each cylinder into four even disks. Cut each disk again most of the way through, leaving a slit that can be pried open. 3. In a large bowl, mix together beef, parsley, and spices. Once mixed, stuff as much meat as possible into each of the potato’s slits. 4. Beat two eggs in a bowl and place the bread crumbs in another. Cover potatoes in the egg wash, then thoroughly cover all sides with bread crumbs. 5. On the stovetop, heat oil in a large, oven-safe pan then add potatoes. Turn occasionally to ensure an even browning, 1 minute each side. 6. After potatoes are done browning, remove from heat and pour tomato sauce on top. 7. Place the pan in the oven, and bake for 40 minutes or until potatoes are cooked through.