style in progress
#1/2016
"CURIOSITY IS THE MOST IMPORTANT SKILL OF A BUYER." NICK WOOSTER
€ 6.90
Success Factor: Why Humans Can’t be Replaced /// Power Factor: The New Self-Image of Buyers /// Future Factor: Sales Talents Wanted (Desperately) /// Decision Factor: Yes, Money’s Important! Really!
OUT OF SEASON 2016 WWW.MEINDL-FASHION.DE www.facebook.com/meindl.fashion
Mode & Sport
Die
F re i h e i t ruft!
PREMIUM Berlin 19. – 21.01. 2016
ISPO München 24. – 27.01. 2016
Tracht & Country Salzburg 04. – 06.03. 2016
luistrenker.com | facebook.com/originalluisworld
006 EDITORIAL
Price or Value?
Cover Photo: Clemens Kois
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Welcome to these lines. Everything has its price, but far too few aspects of our industry have an actual value. Just think about the most important asset of all: people. Just think about individuals such as passionate sales assistants, dedicated showroom employees, industrious back-office workers, intelligent executives, visionary managing directors, and courageous owners. We decided to dedicate the focus of this year’s first issue of style in progress to all those passionate people. They are, without doubt, the backbone of the fashion industry. In the Longview (from page 060), Nick Wooster says something very apt to Petrina Engelke: “You can’t be a good waiter unless you have been taught by a good waiter how to be a good one, and you have experience. It’s true for a salesperson, and it’s certainly true for a buyer.” At the age of 55, Wooster has become a veritable social media superstar and his very individual style provides orientation. His views have substance: it took 40 years of retail experience before he found himself in front of the lenses of street style photographers such as Tommy Ton or Scott Schuman. “One of the downsides of social media is that it makes everything appear simple, as if you just show up and get a picture taken. Yes, you do show up and yes, you get your picture taken, but there is a lot more that has gone on behind the scenes than those two events.” Is there a different way? Is there a faster way to the top, to power, or into the spotlight? The young people of today dream about leading the glamorous life of buyers, and are especially impressed by their charisma and influence. The public image suggests that your “Like” makes all the difference. However, the self-image is much more diverse these days, as Martina Müllner describes in her article (“Procurement Power”, from page 082). “I look forward to growing together with new brands”, says Sagmeister Der Mann’s Clemens Sagmeister, for instance. His statement sums up the work ethic of a new generation. Do they want co-operation at all costs? No, mutual respect is the key.
Many agree that sales assistants still don’t enjoy the respect they deserve. Christian Greiner, the chief executive of Ludwig Beck and Wormland, tells Nicoletta Schaper (“We Want the Best!”, from page 096): “Customers will give the grumpiest taxi driver a tip, but they rarely even think about tipping a sales assistant after receiving excellent advice.” But does what the fashion industry - in particular the sales profession - offers match with the career plans of the younger generation? The battle for the best candidates began a long time ago. If one allows those candidates to speak their mind (“How About Hooking Up?”, from page 102), one often hears similar answers to that of Fabio Pace when quizzed by Ina Köhler: “I have been working in the fashion retail industry on a temporary basis for approximately three years. No, I can’t imagine a career in that particular field.” Fair enough, but what do they want? Do they all want to be designers? Quynh Tran has a very good reason to decide against such a career path. In an international comparison, attending German fashion schools very rarely leads to a dream job (“Second Row”, from page 124). In a way, that is also the price one has to pay for the fact that a career in retail seems to have so little value. However, we wouldn’t be style in progress - and you wouldn’t be our readers - if we ended in a lament. So let’s roll up our sleeves and get to work! Enjoy your read! Your style in progress team
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008 CONTENT
006 EDITORIAL Price or Value?
012 RIGHT NOW 048 WANT IT THE LONGVIEW 060
060 “Stuff Has to be Good” The exciting answers to a question printed on t-shirts: “Who the F*** is Nick Wooster?”
WHAT’S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR 070 Human Success Factor Human capital? No, they’re humans! 072 The Be-All and End-All Selected industry opinions on the mission and passion of salespeople 082 Procurement Power The new self-image of buyers is defined by more co-operations and less elbow tactics 086 Hunters or Collectors? Are commissions sensible or destructive? 090 Do You Really Want to Move There?!? The green-field fashion brand – a challenge and opportunity 082
096 We Want the Best! The battle for sales talents is raging 100 “We Need Passionate Conviction” Lodenfrey’s Markus Höhn on staff recruiting for the upscale market 102 How About Hooking Up? What young people think about a career in retail 106 Pay Day 85,000 or rather 35,000? What is the retail industry willing to pay for good staff 112 From Human to Human It’s not always easy to stay motivated as a salesperson 118 It’s a People’s Business The face of the brand shouldn’t be mere marketing 122 “Every Item Tells a Story” The founders of Weber + Weber speak out
112
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124 Second Row German fashion schools produce new talent, but only few succeed on an international level
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010 CONTENT
128 The Jacket Without Sleeves Dornschild has set out to liberate the vest, most of all from its stuffy image 130 Savvy Down Chinese owner, designed in Italy: Bosideng makes stylish down affordable 132 New Course Proven flag, new helmsman – and now heading for new shores: Gaastra 134 Less is More Rag collecting in a luxurious context: Daniele Fiesoli revives an ancient tradition 135 Newcomer with Tradition Ten-Eleven-Seven: Ten117 is a new outerwear brand with a surprisingly strong profile
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136 Just Pesko Nico Pesko’s brand brims with retail experience – and a little nostalgia 138 It’s Coming Home Joop is making Jeans again – Thorsten Stiebing has a winning formula 140 We Are One Strellson restructures its brand: a little detox, a little muscle building 142 Everything Perfect Brama is: US brands with system, distributed throughout Europe with a holistic approach 144 Miss Wonder Liu Jo is hot, sexy, and Italian – now the brand is taking a crash course in German
FASHION 146 The Next Forecast for a mild winter
IN STORE 146
162 Fashion Pilgrimage Site BB Loves/Cologne 164 Fashion First Fashion Fifty-6/Saarbrücken 166 Manhattan’s Little Italy of Fashion Carson Street Clothiers/New York 168 Family Business Lösekann/Bielefeld 170 Ski Out Strolz am Rüfiplatz/Lech 172 Farewell Throwaway Culture Selekteur/Düsseldorf 174 Style with Profile Linnerth/Vienna
176 EDITOR’S LETTER Simple Truths 166
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176 ABOUT US
PREMIUM – International Fashion Trade Show January 19 – 21 2016
JOOP.COM
JOOP! Showroom Atelier I Station-Berlin Luckenwalder Str. 4 – 6
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Drykorn New Presence at Konen Drykorn opened its first shop-in-shop concept at KaDeWe Berlin in June. Now the brand has decided to take the next step by inking a co-operation agreement with Konen Munich. In November, the brand from Kitzingen opened a 100 square metre area for women’s fashion. The shop design, which is defined by a clean and timeless look with matt chromed metal and coquina, was developed by Munich-based company Hofmann & Losch. The concept is currently limited to women’s fashion and will be implemented at a few carefully selected retail partners. The brand does not plan to pursue a stronger vertical orientation in combination with the related expansion of its own retail areas. www. drykorn.de
The latest virtual reality technology allows customer to view - and purchase - the Tommy Hilfiger collection “as live”.
Tommy Hilfiger Virtual Reality Tommy Hilfiger, the iconic American brand, has brought its vision of a virtual shopping experience - made possible by new Samsung technology - to life in its New York store on 5th Avenue. It allows customers to view the current autumn/winter 2016 collection - as it was presented on the catwalk last February - in selected Tommy Hilfiger shops and partner stores around the globe in 3D and from all angles. The customers can even purchase items on the spot. “We are driven by a vision that reaches beyond usual consumer expectations”, says Daniel Grieder, the CEO of Tommy Hilfiger. “This concept enables our customers to experience the Tommy Hilfiger collection as though they have front row seats at the fashion show itself.” www.tommy-hilfiger.com
Save the Duck Together for Nature
In November, Drykorn opened its second shop-in-shop concept in Munich.
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To mark the 50th anniversary of the Italian branch of the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), Save the Duck, an Italian brand renowned for its colourful, environmentally friendly, and down-free quilted jackets, launched a special Good cause - Save the Duck collaborates with the WWF. edition in 50 different colour shades. Every hue represents an endangered species or a natural habitat. Apricot orange stands for orang-utans, snow white stands for polar bears, and forest green stands for the rain forest of Sumatra as the natural habitat of the Indonesian tiger. “We are a 21st century business and we take the questions asked by an organisation like the WWF very seriously. A fundamental insight is that we can work towards achieving an environment that allows human kind to live in harmony with nature. Sustainability is one of the main pillars of our brand philosophy. We strongly believe that all humans need to work together to create a harmonious relationship with our environment and to utilise natural resources without destroying them. Engaging in dialogue with our planet guarantees a better life for us all and future generations”, says Nicolas Bargi, the founder of Save the Duck. www.savetheduck.it
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Carl Gross Exclusive New Line
Création Gross’ capsule collection, Carl Gross Black Line, is targeted at the premium segment.
With its new capsule collection Carl Gross Black Line, the brand expands its range of high-quality, off-the-peg fashion and strives to occupy the entry level of the premium segment. The collection will be presented to specialist retailers for the first time during the pre-order phase of autumn/winter 2016. Knut Horsch, the head of product management and the designer responsible for the Black Line, relies on a small, concentrated range consisting of two sports jackets, a suit, and a blazer coat in the styles Modern-Fit and Sharp-Fit. The focus is on Italian fabrics, innovative details, and unobtrusive, timeless designs, which underline the high values of the fashion line. The Black Line offers a selection of 40 designs, colours, and new fabrics manufactured by renowned Italian weavers within its own fabric collection. The fabrics include the likes of Dream Tweed by Loro Piana, cashmere by Cerruti, and minimal designs by Ermenegildo Zegna. The retail prices range from 299 to 399 Euros for sports jackets, from 399 to 499 Euros for suits, and from 399 to 699 Euros for coats. “In terms of price structure, the Black Line is designed to occupy the niche we identified between the established offthe-peg suppliers and brands with premium aspirations”, Knut Horsch explains. In the first season, the Black Line suits are offered as NOS articles with Cerruti qualities. www.carlgross.de
Marc O’Polo Photographic Aspiration, Passion for Materiality
Handstich New Sales Partners The leitmotif of Handstich, a brand based in Bavaria’s Seefeld, is: “Handstich stands for items you consider to be friends”. The label’s core competences are jackets for women and men, as well as a range of men’s footwear. “The Handstich collections are an antidote for short lifespan. We are driven by the desire to create products with soul - confident, yet still effortless. We are enthusiastic about quality craftsmanship and fascinated by classics with their own history. Their authenticity and honesty inspires us to create today’s ‘want-haves’, re-interpreted and developed in a modern way. We create favourite pieces with a light touch and their own, independent twist in uncompromising quality”, says André Berger, the managing director of Handstich, when asked to outline his brand’s philosophy. Starting next season, Handstich will co-operate with two new sales agencies. In Switzerland, the label has teamed up with Compagnia Maglia GmbH, the Erlenbach-based agency run by Annette Bailleux and Julia Winkler (www.annettebailleux.ch). Customers in the Benelux countries will be served by Domano Internationale Mode, the Netherlands-based agency of Kees ten Berge with its main office in Naarden (www.domano.com). www.handstich.de
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Bruce Weber photographed Dree Hemingway and Josh Hartnett for Marc O’Polo’s spring/ summer 2016 campaign.
Suspense created by bridging the gap between tradition and modernity: Handstich’s jackets hail from the Bavarian Five-Lake-District.
Follow your nature - Marc O’Polo’s claim is once again at the centre of its spring/summer 2016 campaign. To this end, Marc O’Polo tasked Bruce Weber with photographing Dree Hemingway and Josh Hartnett, two strong protagonists who embody the brand philosophy credibly. The photo shoot took place in House Sky View, Bruce Weber’s property in Montauk, Long Island. The resulting images capture the tranquillity of the location and its private atmosphere, as well as the charisma of the two personalities. This is what the star photographer, who still utilises traditional negative film in today’s digital era, specialises in. The main motifs are black & white, accompanied by stilllife images to highlight the materiality and structure of the fabrics. In contrast, the motifs for the license lines - such as shoes & accessories, eyewear, and children’s fashion - are in colour. Marc O’Polo’s casual wear remains simple and sophisticated. It is defined by coarse knitwear and summery striped designs for women and by casual-style looks, for example in linen fabrics, for men. This spring and summer, Marc O’Polo also offers a range of blouses, which were created in co-operation with the Italian weaving mill Cangioli 1859. www.marc-o-polo.com
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Lucky de Luca Printed
Innsbruck now has its very own Luis Trenker store.
For the upcoming autumn/winter 2016 season, Valentino de Luca’s Lucky de Luca blouse collection for men and women offers completely new, eye-catching models with Panneaux prints. Scenic nature motifs unfurl in the form of XXL prints, while the romantic floral prints on femininely cut blouses look like wearable paintings. Due to the special manufacturing process, during which the fabrics are printed before they are tailored, the almost photorealistic prints boast a particularly brilliant and clear look. They are the highlights of the Lucky de Luca collection, which has always stood for a maximum of individualism with its extraordinary details and fabrics. www.luckydeluca.com
Luis Trenker Tren-kch-a Granted, this headline needs to be explained to English speakers. The dialect of Tyrol has a very striking emphasis on the “k”. One could even say that the “k” explodes upon pronunciation. Since December, Luis Trenker, a lifestyle brand from South Tyrol, is hoping for an explosion of revenue in Innsbruck. Michi Klemera and his team only recently opened a 140 square metre store in Herzog-FriedrichStrasse, Innsbruck’s most important tourist and shopping area. Women’s fashion, menswear, and the outdoor line “Berg” are on display in the usual life-affirming manner. The store is run by Luis Trenker itself, which is no surprise given that people from South Tyrol often see North Tyrol as their second home in terms of business. North Tyrol has always been a popular destination for day trips, especially during the Christmas season, when the Austrian version of Christmas markets sparkles even more magically than the Italian version. “Opening a store in Innsbruck really does feel a little like coming home”, Michi Klemera confirms. Well, before someone starts calling “Tirol is lei oans” this article stops. www.luistrenker.com
Wearable paintings: the new Panneaux prints are a highlight of the Lucky de Luca collection.
Stone Island Third German Store
Rising star at the Alster: the new Stone Island flagship store in Hamburg.
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After establishing shops in Munich and Sylt, Stone Island, an Italian sportswear label, has opened its third German store in one of the most sought-after inner-city locations of Hamburg. The flagship store, located in the listed Brandenburger Haus (dates back to 1909) at the address Hohe Bleichen 22, boasts a sales area of 160 square metres and is run by the brand itself. “The store opening underlines our commitment to the German market and shows how important it is to us. We have a special bond with Germany and I believe Hamburg is one of the most beautiful and elegant cities in Europe”, says Carlo Rivetti, the managing director of Stone Island. The ground-level store with three large shop windows is divided into two sections. The main store offers the Stone Island and Stone Island Shadow Project collections, while the smaller second section stocks the Junior Line for children between 2 and 14 years of age. The interior is minimalist and restrained. Blue LED lights are integrated into anthracite mirror panels and stratified crystal inserts stand in contrast with the neutral colours of the walls, the product displays made of light oak wood, and the grey sandstone floor. The interior concept is based on the “Item/Unit 2” system, created for Stone Island by Marc Buhre, an industrial designer from Heidelberg. Every element of this system is designed to adapt to the spatial conditions and is based on functional design demands. Stone Island’s retail operations currently exist of seven mono-brand stores in Italy, ten more around the globe, and an online store.www.stoneisland.com
FEBRUARY 13 –15 2016
JANUARY 19–21 2016
MOC MUNICH
STATIONBERLIN
www.premiumexhibitions.com
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Floris van Bommel Store Offensive Opening new stores remains at the top of the Floris van Bommel’s agenda for 2016. In November 2015, the Netherlands-based company opened another store in Utrecht’s Choorstraat. “Geographically speaking, Utrecht is located in the country’s centre - in the heart of the Netherlands”, says Pepijn van Bommel, the commercial director. “A complete brand presentation in own stores, which goes beyond the mere shoe collection, is vital in order to sharpen our brand profile and increase the brand’s charisma. Naturally, this also applies to the Netherlands”, Pepijn van Bommel explains. In addition to the grand opening of the shop in Utrecht, Floris van Bommel also redesigned its existing store in Amsterdam. From a visual point of view, the shops are now based on the branches in Düsseldorf and Cologne. The team is also on the lookout for further store locations in Germany. The cities the brand is looking at are, for instance, Munich, Frankfurt, Hamburg, and Berlin. In Germany, Floris van Bommel is listed at approximately 200 retailers, while it has approximately 1,100 retail partners in the Netherlands. www.florisvanbommel.de
G-Lab New Goals
Utrecht now has its very own Floris van Bommel store.
Woolrich Opening in Berlin
Tradition meets modernity - the interior of the Woolrich store reflects the brand’s philosophy of remaining contemporary without neglecting its rich history.
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Looking forward to new challenges Barbara Kühne, the new marketing director at G-Lab.
Woolrich, a renowned outerwear specialist, pushed ahead with its plans regarding retail expansion in 2015. After opening its own stores in Amsterdam and Warsaw, the brand, which is distributed in Europe by Corso-based WP Lavori, opened its fourth store in Germany. Just in time for the autumn season, Woolrich added Berlin to the list of store locations, which already includes Munich, Hamburg, and Sylt. The newest store is located in Fasanenstrasse 74, in close vicinity to the Kurfürstendamm. Wonderwall, the Japanese studio headed by Masamichi Katayama, was once again asked to design the store. Wonderwall already developed the design concept for Woolrich’s store in Tokyo. The store spreads out over two floors. The most impressive elements are the elaborate wood panelling of the ceiling and the open gallery in the front part of the store. This year, the brand wants to open further stores in other major German cities. Woolrich strives to operate 80 own stores worldwide by 2020. The brand currently runs 17 stores. www.woolrich.eu
In October 2015, Barbara Kühne was appointed as marketing director of G-Lab, a jacket specialist. She joined G-Lab from McCann, where she managed various accounts of global clients and large international brands for many years. “G-Lab is a great brand with enormous potential. It has an enormous drive in terms of spirit, growth, development, and real innovation”, Kühne says. Björn Gericke, the founder and CEO of G-Lab, explains: “Ever since we launched our first jacket collection in 2010, G-Lab has performed brilliantly. We now have a presence in 14 markets, as well as in stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Breuninger, and Tsum in Moscow. We intend to expand the G-Lab team even more over the next few months. Barbara’s appointment is the next stage of our attempt to further enhance the brand and sharpen its profile. We have ambitious targets and Barbara will help us to achieve these targets as a very valuable member of our team.” In addition, G-Lab only recently re-launched its website and online store. Since then, the brand supplies its products to customers from all over Europe. The targeted, emotional approach was visually implemented by utilising minimalist, modern design with clear functions and high-end product images. The entire website, with its generously spaced banners featuring newly developed imagery and punchy headlines, feels like a fashion magazine. www.g-lab.com
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PME Legend First Mono-Brand Store
European expansion: PME Legend is increasing its European footprint by implementing new shop-in-shop concepts and opening new mono-brand stores.
PME Legend, a Netherlands-based brand, recently opened its first mono-brand store in Antwerp’s Meir 107. The shop in the Belgian fashion metropolis boasts a sales area of 600 square metres. The store design is inspired by the Cargo Pilot concept and emphasises the look and feel of PME Legend. The menswear label specialises in denim and casual wear collections inspired by pilots and aviation in general - divided into eight themes per year with corresponding delivery details. Furthermore, PME Legend offers a broad range of trousers, which complements the collections perfectly. The brand boasts an extensive range of product groups such as authentic bomber jackets, shirts and trousers, and shoes with a balanced price-performance ratio. In the Benelux countries, PME Legend has been among the top three brands in the casual and jeans segments for many years. Since 2011, the models Aviator, Bare Metal, and Commander have been amongst the best-selling jeans in the Netherlands. PME Legend has been an active market participant for more than 15 years and is currently represented at 1,500 points of sale across Europe. Germany is one of the most important markets, which is why the brand is expanding its local sales network on a continuous basis. PME Legend intends to open further mono-brand stores in Europe. www.pme-legend.com
Norwegian Rain New Distribution Norwegian Rain, a Norwegian premium outerwear label, has decided to tackle the German market with a new distribution partner from autumn/winter 2016 onwards. Another Project, a fashion agency based in Berlin, has agreed to represent the brand from Bergen in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland henceforth. The collection consists of 20 jacket models for men and women. In addition to traditional rainwear such as trench coats and anoraks, Norwegian Rain offers an Arctic Collection with removable lining. The special features of these elaborate jackets are the classic look in combination with high-tech properties such as breathability, water resistance, and wind resistance, as well as the use of recycled materials. The brand’s customer list includes the likes of Merci in Paris, La Tenda in Milan, Barneys in Tokyo, and American Rag in Shanghai. The only way to view the Norwegian Rain collection in Europe is to visit the Pitti Uomo in Florence or the brand’s showrooms in Paris, Berlin, Milan, Rome, Copenhagen, and Oslo. www.norwegianrain.com
The world’s first Oliveda Store opened its doors to the public of Berlin in September. Its design concept was developed by the retail identity agency DFrost.
Oliveda/DFrost Joint Efforts
High-tech meets tailoring: Norwegian Rain is stylish and functional.
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Only recently, DFrost teamed up with Oliveda, a natural cosmetics brand, to open the very first Oliveda Store in Berlin’s Schönauer Strasse 11. In 2001, Thomas Lommel developed the Olive Tree Therapy, a symbiosis of medicinal plants, organic detox procedures, physiotherapy, meditation, and a healthy diet. Generally speaking, the therapy is perceived as a counterpart to Ayurveda. In 2003, Lommel, a former top athlete and real estate investor, launched Oliveda - The Olive Tree Pharmacy, a brand that can count celebrities such as Charlize Theron, Madonna, and Barbara Becker as its fans. The new Oliveda Store in Berlin is no larger than 24 square metres, but it utilises its limited space very efficiently. It is bright, inviting, and defined by clear lines and natural materials. The brick walls are merely whitewashed, while the wall panelling in the showcase area is painted white. The main eye-catcher in the store is, however, a ceiling-high apothecary shelf made of black-lacquered wood. DFrost, a Stuttgart-based retail identity agency, was founded in 2008 by Nadine Frommer and the Stelzer brothers, Christoph and Fabian. It specialises in innovative presentation concepts at the point of sale. The agency has already developed store concepts for household names such as Swarovski, Peak Performance, Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss, and Porsche Design. In recent years, DFrost was also won several awards, including the Red Dot Communication Award 2012 and the German Design Award 2014. www.dfrost.com, www.oliveda.com
JLINDEBERG.COM
Premium International Fashion Trade Show, Station–Berlin 19–21 January PREMIUM Hall 8, Booth A02
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Strong female imagery: three models, set in scene by photographer Kristian Schuller, epitomise the Airfield lifestyle.
Jet Set We’re Back! In 1969, Jet Set, a collection designed by Kurt Ulmer, brought glamour and sexiness to the ski slopes. The collection was characterised by close-fitting skiwear and strong prints that inspired celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Gunter Sachs. This extroverted style continued to enjoy considerable success throughout the 1980s and 1990s. Now this type of sportswear is making a comeback, led by Myriam Mele, who was part of the old Jet Set crew and has been acting as the brand’s chief executive since 2013. “It’s the perfect time for a re-launch. We perceive ourselves as an all-year brand”, Myriam Mele says. “Our aim is to interpret the typical Jet Set spirit in a contemporary and city-like manner.” The ski collection is defined by functional styles in total white, with black and white zigzag print, colour blocking, and snow camouflage. The transition to sportswear is fluid, for example in the form of bomber jackets with fake fur, printed leggings, and an extensive range of knitwear. The latter includes plait and star patterns for women, as well as inlays for men. The muted colour scheme is defined by grey, beige, khaki, and pearl colours. The prices are in the mid-premium segment; the retail prices for basic sweaters start at 300 Euros. The German representative for Jet Set, which has been part of Switzerland-based Gaydoul Group since 2009, is Munich-based Agentur Schwarte. The sportswear range can be viewed at the Premium trade show this January; the complete collection, consisting of sportswear and the ski collection, is scheduled to be showcased at the Ispo. www.jetset.ch
Airfield Super Woman In its new autumn/winter 2016 campaign, Airfield presents the “Modern Day Super Woman”, who is the embodiment of the strong, independent, individual, and unique women that Airfield stands for. It was a real challenge for Kristian Schuller, the photographer known for his work on Germany’s Next Topmodel, especially as he had to portray the many facets of Airfield buyers by utilising three model types. “Iris Strubegger, an international top model with Austrian roots, highlights Airfield’s sporty-feminine look”, Sophia Bitter, the CMO of Airfield, explains. “Carmen Dell Orefice exemplifies high fashion; she is an exceptional woman who has been a shining star in the fashion industry for more than 60 years. Ilva Heitmann completes the imagery with her youthful nonchalance.” The backdrop for the shoot was chosen specifically to emphasise the characters of the three women and the collection’s diverse colour themes. Walter Moser GmbH, a company which was founded in 1937 and launched its first Airfield women’s collection in 1995, is currently run by Walter Moser, who represents the third generation of family owners. Today, the company based in Seewalchen (Austria) operates on an international level with approximately 1,000 retail customers and eleven own stores worldwide. It also has sales partners in Europe, Asia, Canada, and the US. www.airfield.at Typical Jet Set: sportswear makes a comeback in autumn/winter 2016 to complement the skiwear range.
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Berlin, 19th – 21th January 2016 Stand H3-E14
Firenze, 12th - 15th January 2016 Pad. Centrale / Groundfloor Stand K11 L6
AGENTUR STÖCKLER/HAMBURG DIE HINTERHOFAGENTUR/MUNICH Ralf Klüver / Switzelrand Mobile +49 177 307 1302 Mobile +49 179 455 2023 Mobile +49 172 696 2073 m.stoeckler@googlemail.com d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de r.kluever@bluewin.ch
woolandco.it
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Alberto Innovation and Zeitgeist
The chino model “Rob” is the fashionable linchpin of Alberto’s new chino collection.
Rolf Walendy, the founder of Alberto, celebrated his 90th birthday on the 24th of November 2015. One of the best birthday gifts was most certainly the continuous success of his lifework, Alberto. Today, the company is run by his son Georg Walendy, the managing directors Marco Lanowy and Jürgen Schmiedel, and his grandchildren. The idealism and entrepreneurial spirit of Rolf Walendy remain integral elements of the company’s corporate culture. It was always his style to pitch in, improve, work meticulously, and make improvements when necessary. For the upcoming autumn/winter 2016 season, Alberto has remained faithful to Rolf Walendy’s pursuit of advancement by introducing yet another product innovation. Building on the success of its Superfit denims, the company has expanded the topic to the chino segment: Superfit cottons with a 35% elasticity. The wearing comfort and shape retention of the trousers is, as always, in the foreground. The fashionable look of the chinos is equally important. The silhouettes include the well-known Alberto fits such as slim, pipe, stone, Lou-J, and Rob. The latter is an elaborately crafted slim-fit chino with double-welt back pockets, typical chino front pockets, and a narrow waistband. In honour of its tradition, the company produces all campaigns in Germany. The same applies to the current campaign, which was set in scene in the Black Forest. “Our commitment to Germany as a business location is, Rolf Walendy, the above all, a part of our corporate culture, which is why company’s founder, we are currently attempting to visualise it in this manner”, celebrated his 90th Marco Lanowy, the managing director of Alberto, explains. birthday in November 2015. www.alberto.de
Boxfresh New DACH Partner On the 1st of November 2015, Boxfresh International (regional office in Bad Reichenhall, Germany) took over the distribution of the brand for the German-language markets (DACH region). This means the co-operation with Brand Connection was terminated as of the 31st of October 2015. “We’re looking forward to our new and future-oriented responsibilities”, says Achim Leidel, the sales director at Boxfresh DACH. “This step enables us to offer our customers an even more consistent and targeted service.” The sales team consists of Simon Megersa, who is responsible for customers in Berlin, Hamburg, and the East German provinces, and Christian Schön, who is responsible for Bavaria and Austria. In December, Boxfresh opened a new showroom in Düsseldorf’s Ürdinger Strasse. The brand, which was founded in London in 1989, initially offered printed t-shirts, sweatshirts, and sneakers. Men’s footwear remains the main focus of the street style brand, which is part of a stable of labels including Speedo, Ellesse, and Lacoste Footwear. All the aforementioned are part of London-based Pentland Group. www.boxfresh.com
Cute - the little Sagmeister takes care of Vorarlberg’s fashion offspring.
Sagmeister For Sweet Buttons Caroline and Clemens Sagmeister certainly know what they’re talking about. Parents find it really hard to find high-quality children’s fashion in Vorarlberg. Consequently, the pair opened a new branch dedicated to fashion-conscious children at the beginning of November. In Bregenz’s Kirchstrasse, demanding parents can now browse through fashion that meets their high standards. And browsing is fun, especially when it involves brands such as Bellybutton, Finger in the Nose, Hackett London, Il Gufo, K-Way, Moncler, New Balance, Petit Bateau, Stone Island, Tartine et Chocolat, and Ugg. “We believe in the potential of this niche, even though the classic children’s fashion trade isn’t exactly thriving at the moment”, says Clemens Sagmeister. “But that’s exactly the point: the traditional children’s product range is a thing of the past, but parents do still have a soft spot for truly special items.” www.sagmeister.at Boxfresh has decided to pursue a new strategy with a new distribution partner for the DACH region.
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Duvetica Luxurious, Functional, Knitted
J. Lindeberg Return of the Founder In December, J. Lindeberg, a Swedish fashion label, announced the return of Johan Lindeberg, the brand’s founder, as creative consultant. The appointment coincided with the label’s 20th anniversary. As of January, he will work closely with the design team in Stockholm from his base in New York. In 2007, the designer left the brand at his own request after he was largely responsible for the great success of the men’s and women’s collection. Today, the brand is represented in 35 countries, at approximately 900 retailers, and operates roughly 90 stores itself. The founder’s comeback is not only celebrated by the management team, but also by Stefan Engström, the co-founder of the brand: “It feels like a natural step to close the circle with the re-entrance of the brand’s founder in our journey to becoming the leading international lifestyle brand from Stockholm.” Johan Lindeberg expressed his gratitude for the commitment of Engström. “Of course, the decision to re-open a previous relationship is never an easy one. But the more we talked, the more it made sense. It feels like the right time to pool our experience in order to propel J. Lindeberg into the next development phase as one strong, international voice”, the designer says. www.jlindeberg.se
Paola Albizi, the head of design at Duvetica, defines the fashion image of the brand.
Duvetica’s autumn/winter collection proves that the brand is capable of more than just “the usual down pieces”. The key word is luxury. The typical down look of Duvetica’s jackets and coats makes place for a prêt-à-porter style. This doesn’t mean that there is no down in the collection at all - on the contrary. The collection is defined by woollen outer fabrics and finest down filling, the latter, as per usual, in the finest Duvetica quality from French grey geese. The material mix involving knitted fabrics and down is even more exciting. It’s a completely new concept within the collection that takes mild winters and capricious weather into account. If the knitwear proves too thin, the down element adds the necessary weather resistance. If the down proves too thick, it can be detached from the knitwear. This intelligent 2-in-1 approach was developed by designer Paola Albizi: “The knitwear element is a real highlight of our collection; it takes the demand for readymade pieces in the knitwear segment into account.” The iconic “full zip” jacket is, of course, also available this winter. It can be obtained in almost all fabrics that are utilised in the collection.www.duvetica.it
Kurzzug Made by Munich
Johan Lindeberg returns to the company that bears his name.
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Items of everyday use often develop into cult products, mostly after a resourceful product designer has replaced them with a newer version. The blue leather covers from Munich’s subway are definitely in that category, even though they are still in use in some of the older trains. “We up-cycle materials and recycle history” is the motto of Kurzzug, a new brand that utilises used seat covers to manufacture bags. The labels product range includes a weekender, a key ring, and an urban bag, all in unisex design and produced in Italy. The blue is highlighted elegantly by dark brown leather straps. The driving forces behind Kurzzug are two Munich locals, Jörg Schleburg and Wolfgang Bischoff, both well-known figures in Munich’s creative circles, who share a common creative approach, sense of humour, and love for the city itself. Kurzzug captures what Munich’s subway had to endure over the last 40 years: Oktoberfest, Olympic Games, Schwabing’s jet set, Uschi Obermaier, and a wide range of emotions. In March 2016, the brand plans to launch a major crowd-funding campaign to finance the expansion of its collection. www.kurzzug.com
Kurzzug translates true stories into tangible design: bags made of the old seat covers of Munich’s subway.
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Productive feedback - crowd-storming revolutionises work processes.
Fighting for a good cause together (left to right): Kathrin Eberhard, Jochen Lagemann (both PrimaLoft), Bud Willim (City of Munich’s social services department), Konstantin Rentrop (Sporthaus Schuster), and Nicole Bössl (Wertstoff Diakonia).
Jovoto Working Differently
Sporthaus Schuster Exemplary
Jovoto, a crowd-storming platform, allows brands, companies, and NGOs to brainstorm with more than 70,000 creative individuals all over the globe in order to solve specific design problems and implement projects. In addition, the founders of Jovoto take a stand for fair remuneration for creative talents, which is an approach that makes them very different to other platforms offering similar services. Until an idea is licensed, the usage rights remain with the creators. Alongside licensing fees, Jovoto also offers prize money for participating in tenders. Jovoto was founded by Bastian Unterberg at the Berlin University of Arts in 2007 and has, to date, successfully executed 350 orders for clients such as Greenpeace, Audi, Unicef, and Microsoft. Only recently, the Swiss brand Victorinox turned to the Jovoto community for the fourth time, tasking the creative talents to come up with new, innovative designs for a limited edition of pocketknives. The tender triggered more than 1,400 submissions. The result is the most successful limited edition of Victorinox pocketknives with a sales increase of up to 70%. www.jovoto.com
As part of its breakfast event for regular customers to celebrate the season opener in November, Sporthaus Schuster, the Munich-based sportswear specialist, teamed up with PrimaLoft, a specialist in insulation, for a truly good cause. The team collected dozens of warm winter jackets donated by its customers and handed them on to the refugee relief programme of the Deaconry in Munich. Two large expedition crates, both bulging with jackets, were delivered to the Deaconry warehouse before the onset of winter. PrimaLoft has already successfully collected winter jackets at the Ispo trade show in 2015 and was eager to repeat the campaign before the cold winter months. “The response was very positive. We are thrilled by the dedication and generosity of our regular customers. Naturally, we are also a little proud. We’d like to thank everyone who participated”, says Flori Schuster, the managing director of Sporthaus Schuster. www.sport-schuster.de
Hololab Experimental Laboratory When shelves in retail stores start talking to us in the future, it could well be based on technology developed in Düsseldorf. Partners from the fashion industry and the field of science have teamed up to create a so-called “Hololab”. The aim of the research and development laboratory is to create pioneering concepts for the retail industry. The list of contributors includes the University of Applied Sciences Düsseldorf, the local agency Mavis, and Frankfurt-based branding agency Hauser Lacour (branding & strategy). The plan is to create a new home for creative retail solutions in the close vicinity of the new university campus, where students will research in collaboration with the professors Philipp Teufel and Rainer Zimmermann, as well as partners from the fashion and retail industries. Professor Laurent Lacour believes that the dovetailing of communication and store design remains a challenge for the future: “The main problem of the retail sector is the creation of a holistic and communicative experience world that begins in digital channels, spreads to the PoS, and ultimately returns to the digital world.”
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Room for ideas - Düsseldorf’s “Hololab” is a project that aims to unite theory and practice.
www.marlino.com
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Textilerei Competence Centre Nico Hoffmeister has set out to strengthen the regional fashion industry around Mannheim and the city’s reputation as a business location as a whole. To this end, Textilerei was founded in October. Since then, a landmarked Baroque building in Mannheim acts as an operational base for innovative start-ups in the fashion and design industries. The city itself invested almost 1.6 million Euros in the renovation of the premises. A further 1.34 million Euros in project funds were supplied by the EU and the federal state Baden-Württemberg. Textilerei is Mannheim’s eighth start-up centre and is part of Mannheimer Gründungszentren GmbH, a holding company owned to 100% by the city. Nico Hoffmeister, who was appointed as managing director of Textilerei, is an industry veteran. For the last nine years, he acted as the head of marketing & public relations at Sixty Deutschland GmbH. The centre consists of studios, workshops equipped with industrial sewing machines, and offices. It also provides entrepreneurs with advice and support such as classic start-up counselling, industry networking measures, and assistance in terms of promotional activities. Furthermore, the start-ups can take advantage of a retail store and a web shop. The first labels to move into Textilerei were Michelle Huhn, Hetje, and Carokissen. www.textilerei.de
Toni Sailer Sports opened its first store in Kitzbühel.
Toni Sailer The Legend Returns Toni Sailer was an exceptional talent and has managed to retain his status as a skiing legend to this day. He was the very first skier to win all three titles - slalom, downhill, and giant slalom - at the Olympic Games in Cortina D’Ampezzo, only to end his sporting career at the tender age of 23 to pursue a career as an actor/singer. Inspired by this incredible story, Hans Taubenberger founded the brand Toni Sailer Sports in 1995. This winter, the brand has decided to open its first Toni Sailer Shop in Kitzbühel, in the same street in which Toni Sailer was born. “It is fantastic that we get to open our first store right here”, Hans Taubenberger rejoices. “Back to the roots, yet still a huge step forward - this is a unique opportunity and we intend to take full advantage of it.” The brand presents its fashionable skiwear on approximately 50 square metres. The noble ambience is characterised by wood, stainless steel, and elegant furniture. The interior is complemented by original records, movie posters, and pictures - all signed by the skiing legend himself. For the upcoming order round, the brand offers a strictly limited capsule collection called Vision of the Legend on Top for up to 25 retailers. The capsule collection returns to the brand’s origins despite utilising the latest techniques. The base colour of all styles is black, especially as Toni Sailer was once known as the “Black Lightning from Kitz”. Red and white add some subtle accents. The brand offers two jackets and one style of trousers for women and men respectively; the items are only available as a complete programme. The menswear fit is casual, while two silhouettes for women are available: slim-fit and loose-fit.www.tonisailer.com
Nico Hoffmeister knows the industry inside out and is now at the helm of Textilerei, a newly established start-up centre in Mannheim.
Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters/Panorama Europe Focus on Jackets and Shoes In the future, Mark Grütters and his agency, Fashion Factory, intend to focus even more on summer shoes by Espadrij l’originale and Rivieras, as well as the cult label Paraboots as a useful supplement to the jackets in the outdoor segment. “In terms of jackets, the consumers look for brand names and style. In terms of footwear, it’s all about brand names and quality. The focus of our portfolio brands is on features such as history, tradition, craftsmanship, and authenticity. Each of our brands has an icon and key item, which is an established classic in the market and available in an extensive range of colours”, Grütters explains. The collection by Penfield, a US outdoor brand, impresses with accomplished New England aesthetics, elaborate details, and an excellent price-performance ratio. In the upcoming autumn/winter season, Schott NYC presents three new colours for women and men, as well as some new details for the classic MA-1 bomber jacket. “Because of the mild winter, we received a huge amount of repeat orders towards the end of November. Schott NYC’s bomber jacket has established itself as a true classic and consumers have accepted the jacket as a key item for the transition period, which, due to the weather, now lasts almost all year”, Grütters adds. Labels: Espadrij l’originale, Grundens, La Botte Gardiane, Menil, Orcival, Paraboots, Penfield, Rivieras, Schott NYC Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters, Düsseldorf/Germany, contact@ffbymg.com, www.ffbymg.com Panorama Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, mail@panorama-europe.eu, www.panorama-europe.eu
Showroom with daylight: loft atmosphere in the Fashion Factory in Düsseldorf.
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Discover our new brand experience and join us in celebrating the new AW collection 2016. Meet us in the Polveriera at Pitti Uomo 2016. January 12th – 15th, Florence. www.strellson.com
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d-tails “Playing Safe Is Over” Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s has a clear strategic focus for d-tails, his fashion agency. “I see a crisis in terms of major brands and flawed products. At the moment, the best sales figures are reported by stores in smaller towns, in particular by stores who know their customers very well and have never tried to fool them with absurd pricing or discount offers”, he says. Coppolecchia-Reinartz bases his statement on his recent experiences as an agency owner and the owner of a store in Munich’s Glockenbach district. “I subsist on the niche” is the motto that he plans to focus even more on in the future. He believes the greatest potential lies in specialised products and a multi-faceted product range. “It is vital to fascinate the customers with a product that has a background story and to distinguish oneself from competitors with one’s product range. Playing safe is over.” d-tails enters the upcoming round of orders with a handful of new collections and plans to present its entire portfolio at the next Gallery trade show in Düsseldorf. The new additions to the portfolio are a down collection by Bosideng, a Canadian parka collection by Nicole Benisti, a fast-fashion women’s fashion line by Caipirinha, the comeback collection by Lumberjack, the Pianura Studio premium line, and a shirt collection by Costumein. All the aforementioned brands impressed Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz with their respective price-performance ratios and unique products. This is, after all, his proven recipe for success: a special product of the highest quality at a price that allows the retailers to generate sales in combination with a selective distribution strategy that turns a niche brand into a distinguishing feature. Labels: 81 Carati Collection, Alpha Studio, Anna F., Bark, Borbonese, Bosideng, Bruno Parise, Camicetta Snob, Costumein, Essent’ial, Fattori Shawls Como, Gherardini, Globe-Trotter, Graziani Jewels, Laboratori Italiani Uomo, Liverani, L(!)W Brand, Lumberjack, Massimo Alba, Nicole Benisti, Olivieri Furs, Pianura Studio, Pollini, Quinto Ego, Rialto 48, Riders on the Storm, Spektre Sunglasses, Wally Walker, Wheelbarrow, Weber+Weber d-tails, Munich/Germany, info@d-tails.de, www.d-tails.de
Every fabric is unique: La Jolie specialises in self-developed fabrics and exclusive prints.
Shirts with a maximum of individual character: Costumein, a new addition to D-tails’s brand portfolio.
Die Hinterhofagentur From Product to Brand For the coming season, the team headed by Dominik and Julia Meuer has added two “local” Munich-based brands to the agency’s portfolio. La Jolie is a women’s collection created by Sandy Perez-Martinez, who designs the majority of the fabrics she uses herself and has them manufactured exclusively. Various colourful prints on silk for dresses and blouses, as well as unusual new bouclé fabrics for jackets, blazers, and coats, are important elements of the collection. The particular focus on fabrics lends the fashion line a very independent personality. The collection statement is underlined by high-quality details such as finest glass buttons from France. Furthermore, all items are produced to 100% in Germany. Up until now, Ginger and Ruby was a cashmere collection manufactured exclusively for children. As of the upcoming autumn/winter season, the brand also offers casual knitwear tops and accessories, such as hats and scarves, for women. Colours, inlays, and prints are the design elements that lend this fashion line its special character. In terms of the existing portfolio brands, the agency is in the process of intensifying its co-operation with existing and new customers. “Our collections always have their own, clear product story. Some of them have already established and proven themselves commercially. Naturally, we want to build on that”, says Dominik Meuer, the owner of the agency. “I keep hearing that the consumers are bored by the interchangeable product ranges of retailers. New names are more in demand than ever. Individuality is vital - and it pays off.” Labels: des petits hauts, La Jolie, Ginger and Ruby, Sophie, Wool & Co, BOB, Breco’s, Cape Horn, 0039 Men, Koike, Out of Order Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de
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Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode Cuddly Winter Companions
Parkas of all shapes and sizes are the speciality of IQ+ Berlin.
Martin Steckel confirms that his Munich-based agency plans to continue focusing on stability in the upcoming season: “Our existing labels have performed very well.” Anima Pop, an Italian clothing specialist, remains extremely popular due to its vivid prints. The well-known neoprene qualities are complemented with new materials such as velvet and wool. The latter are also printed and are equally reversible. IQ+ Berlin continues to rely on cuddly parkas and has refined many variations. The retail prices start at 499 Euros. Besides the typical fur linings, the brand relies heavily on lambskin trimmings. In addition, IQ+ Berlin has enhanced its product range by introducing wool coats which have already proven their enormous commercial potential in the retail world. The agency showcases most of its portfolio brands at the Premium in Berlin and, on the 28th of January 2016, in its own showroom in Munich. Labels: Anima Pop, bloom, FFC, flowers for friends, Goodies, IQ+ Berlin, Vintage Racing by Meindl Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH, Munich/Germany, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de
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Agentur Schwarte Back to the Nineties For the new season, Matthias Schwarte’s agency has taken over the Germany-wide distribution of Jet Set. The agency does not only represent the ski collection, but also the newly launched sportswear collection for men and women. The latter references the 1980s/1990s and hopes to repeat the success of the past. “The team from back in the day is part of the re-launch”, Matthias Schwarte explains. The result can be viewed at the Premium trade show, while the ski collection can be explored at the Ispo trade fair. Another new addition to Schwarte’s portfolio is Manifattura, a new label of Florence-based Wool Group, which is also responsible for the Daniele Fiesoli collection. The name says it all: Manifattura means hand-crafted, in this case in Umbria. It offers a luxury cashmere collection for men at retail prices between 300 and 500 Euros. “We perceive ourselves as a 100% service provider”, Matthias Schwarte says of his agency. “Service counts. In addition, we are specialists in introducing new and special labels to the market. Our brands afford premium retailers an opportunity to set themselves apart from their competition.” Labels: Armani Jeans, A Fish Named Fred, Benson N.Y., Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Jet Set, Lodenfrey 1842, Parajumpers, Siviglia, Sundek Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de
Manifattura is the new high-end knitwear collection for men by Wool Group from Florence.
Brama Gallery We Provide Style By implementing the so-called “American Rhythm”, Brama Gallery has caused quite a stir in Germany. All the collections represented by the agency are not ordered in the classic pre-order phase, but significantly later. This requires a huge amount of commitment in terms of stock management and repeat orders. The possibility to re-order throughout the ongoing season is not only a huge asset for the retailers, but also thrills the consumers. After all, who wouldn’t be happy if the sold out size of those favourite jeans can be re-stocked as swiftly as possible. It’s no big surprise that this system is particularly popular. Only recently, Brama Gallery was appointed as the European distributor (except in the UK) of J Brand. Labels: Current/Elliott, Doma, Enzo Costa, Equipment, Isapera, James Perse, J Brand, Mother, Norma Kamali, The Elder Statesman Brama Gallery, Janine Knizia, 40476 Düsseldorf/Germany, janine@bramagallery.de, www.bramagallery.de
Dedicated to careful selection processes jeans by Care Label.
The Wearhouse Fashion Trade For the Love of Jeans These two are a perfect match: Patrick Ebnöther and the denim brand Care Label. Both parties attach great importance to careful selection. Ebnöther, the owner of The Wearhouse Fashion Trade, is very careful when he selects brands for his portfolio, while the denim specialist is very picky in terms of raw material sources. Care Label is a capsule collection of We Do Srl, a company founded in Cannara, Perugia, in 2011 by such illustrious Italian fashion personalities like Leopoldo Durante, Enrico Gallo, and Lapo Elkann. The Care Label product range includes trousers, vests, and jackets for men, as well as trousers and shirts for women. The Wearhouse Fashion Trade will start distributing the label as of autumn/winter 2016/17. The retail prices range from 179 to 279 Euros. Labels: Barena Venezia, Caliban, Campomaggi, Care Label, Caterina Lucchi, Circolo 1901, Freedom Day, Giuglielminotti, GMS-75, Hunkydory, Mason’s, May Story, Michael Stars, Nabholz, Paltò, Rude Riders, Siviglia White, Stone Island, Tintoria Mattei 954 The Wearhouse Fashion Trade GmbH, Erlenbach/Switzerland, wearhouse@wearhouse.ch, www.wearhouse.ch
Brama Gallery has been appointed as the European distributor of J Brand with immediate effect.
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Heritage Agents Sharpened Profile For the ongoing season, Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann have sharpened their agency’s profile quite significantly. “In the premium menswear segment, we focus on a limited number of customers in Germany and Austria. Our experience has shown that the respective market leader in a certain location always presents and markets our products perfectly. The aim is to ensure that the collections of our product specialists are displayed by our partners as a total look”, Malte Kötteritz explains. Heritage Agents has been appointed as the representative of Andrea Zori, a premium sneaker collection, from January 2016 onwards. The brand is owned by the family-owned business run by Italian entrepreneurs Giorgio and Paolo Xoccato, who also own the shirt brand Xacus. The plan is to offer the elaborate sneakers exclusively to specialised fashion retailers to ensure the shoes are presented in an appropriate environment. The agency displays all its brands at the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence. This includes Mey Story, a t-shirt and underwear brand that has turned into a veritable success story. “The feedback on Mey Story’s white t-shirt was truly overwhelming”, Malte Kötteritz says. After a mere two months and following four live embroidery events at customers such as Engelhorn, Lodenfrey, Stulz, and Schnitzler, the sales figures exceeded even the wildest expectations. Mey Story is also the embodiment of the agency’s strategy. “In principle, we must succeed in selling products that are so commonplace that they become necessities. This includes classics - such as a blue suit, a white t-shirt, or white sneakers that succeed in adding a fashion component to their general product performance. This results in a clean, crisp, and modern look, which is exactly what we stand for.” Labels: Adriano Meneghetti, Andrea Zori, Lardini, Mey Story, Pantaloni Torino, RVR Lardini, Xacus Heritage Agents, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-agents.com, www.heritage-agents.com
Heritage Agents kick-started the success story of Mey Story with live events at retail partners.
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Aco Austria Nouveau, Retro, Chic
For urban dreamers: Garage Nouveau is Aco Austria’s most recent portfolio brand.
The latest addition to the brand portfolio of Aco Austria is Garage Nouveau, a women’s line positioned in the high-quality premium segment. The collections of the North Italian manufactory combine nostalgic retro feel with modern urbanism. The main focus of the designs is on sophisticated cuts and precise fits that oscillate between masculine-linear and feminine-waisted silhouettes, as well as providing a constant playful interchange of materials. This addition proves that the Austrian trade agency, which has been in business for more than 30 years and has showrooms in Salzburg and Düsseldorf, relies on its core strength - high-quality, contemporary fashion for women and men. In addition to Austria and Germany, the agency covers twelve Eastern European markets. In the latter, Aco Austria has already been organising successful retail promotions with mono-brand stores and corner concepts in multi-brand stores for several years. Labels: Allegri, Atos Lombardini, Furry, Just Cavalli, Gas, Maliparmi, Napapijri, Pinko, Riani, Space Style Concept, Trussardi Jeans, Versace Collection, Versace Jeans Aco Modeagentur, Vienna/Austria, info@acomode.at, www.acomode.at
Vestitus Knitwear From Florence Vestitus’ women’s fashion portfolio has been expanded and complemented by the addition of Tortona 21, a knitwear collection. “We quite deliberately kept the knitwear product group open, mainly because we couldn’t find a collection that suited us and our customer type perfectly, even though we looked very closely and received many offers. Tortona from Florence utilises rich materials to create an athletic - yet still feminine - collection that is a perfect match for our typical women’s fashion customer. With Antonelli, Santoni Donna, and Jacob Cohën Donna, our agency offers women’s collections that attract sophisticated women and mirror the high-end men’s collection in our portfolio. Antonelli, in particular, has developed into a significant market participant within a very short time and will have its own sales area in KaDeWe from the upcoming spring/summer season onwards”, Peter Haertel, the agency’s managing director, explains. In addition, Santoni and Jacob Cohën have decided to launch their first pre-collections in order to guarantee the early delivery dates in May and June that the German market desires. Labels: Alberto Biani, Antonelli, Fedeli, Finamore, Fugato, Herno, Jacob Cohën, Olivieri, Santoni Vestitus GmbH, Düsseldorf and Munich/Germany, service@vestitus.eu, www.vestitus.eu
New portfolio addition - Tortona 21 from Italy.
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Select Trading Two New Addresses
New kids on the block - Laura Hafenmeister and Tim Sauer are the founders of Sweet Deal Agency.
Sweet Deal Agency New in Munich Tim Sauer and Laura Hafenmeister, the founders of the new Munich-based fashion agency Sweet Deal, have known each other for seven years. “During the brand selection process, a young agency like ours needs to attach great importance to collaborating with trustworthy, owner-managed companies. Our focus is on brands that are fresh, individual, and have a distinct handwriting”, Tim Sauer explains. “In order to expand our service range beyond our sales expertise, we have struck up a co-operation with Fräulein PR, a public relations agency based in Landsberg am Lech. In addition, we will establish partnerships with a range of companies from the lifestyle, food, photography, and IT sectors in order to offer our clients a service portfolio that allows them to develop and expand their business scope. This could include designers of high-end furniture for shop fittings, specialists in stock management systems, or gourmet restaurants.” In addition to brands such as Vanook and Virna Dro, which Sweet Deal represents in Germany and Austria, the agency is also the distributor of Phil & Uli in the German postcode areas 4 to 9. Sweet Deal also represents Marlino in the areas Middle and North, as well as the Berlin-based label Ten117 in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg. Labels: Marlino, Phil & Uli, Ten117, Vanook, Virna Dro Sweet Deal Agency, Munich/Germany, office@sweetdealagency.de, www.sweetdealagency.de
Select Trading, the Munich-based fashion agency owned by Bernard Waage, has literally outgrown itself. At the end of October, the business relocated to a larger showroom on the premises of the Neue Balan Campus, where the agency can spread out over 900 square metres. This led to the next change. This spring, the team opened another showroom - with adjacent offices - in Zurich for the brands Tiger of Sweden, John Varvatos, and Hudson Shoes. With the opening of the new showroom, Select Trading also started representing Tiger of Sweden in Switzerland, which is almost certainly one of the main reasons for the new branch. Select Trading has also added Munthe, a Danish label which it now represents in Germany and Austria, to its portfolio. Munthe plans to introduce itself to the German retail industry at a large booth in hall 7 of the Premium trade show’s January event. Finally, Select Trading has teamed up with Aco Moden to distribute the American accessories label Rebecca Minkoff in Germany and Austria. Labels: By Malene Birger, Garment Project, Hudson Shoes, John Varvatos, MDK, Munthe, Projekt AJ 117, Rebecca Minkoff, Tiger Jeans, Tiger of Sweden Select Trading GmbH, Munich/ Germany, info@select-trading.com, www.select-trading.com
Isabella and Gerhard Knaus have made their dream of owning a fashion agency come true.
Knaus oder Knaus Friendly Takeover There are certain people whom one can never imagine retiring. Gabriela Kofler is such a person. However, she only recently took the first step towards retirement. In 2015, Gabriela Kofler decided to sell her fashion agency to Isabella and Gerhard Knaus. “We have all known and respected each other for a very long time”, Gerhard Knaus explains. After working for G-Star, Esprit, Free Mountain, room with a view, and Unifa, the couple finally decided to venture into self-employment, with a brand portfolio that is aimed at clothing customers “from head to toe”. Isabella and Gerhard Knaus have internalised the rules of the industry: remain curious, always look for a better product, and don’t shy away from change. Lo and behold, it has ultimately resulted in what one could call an active retirement, as Gabriela Kofler has opted to help out throughout the season. Labels: Arma, Blonde No 8, Como No 1, Eisbär Easylife, Grace, Iheart, Jadicted, Juvia, Kiefermann, True Religion, Via Masini 80 Knaus oder Knaus, Salzburg/Austria, gerhardknaus@me.com
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Select Trading is, with immediate effect, also the representative of the Tiger of Sweden collection in Switzerland.
Pride to be makes its debut with 10 lamb nappa leather jackets and 10 matching bags.
MODEist Spot on! “This year, we all noticed that it has become more important than ever to offer the right items at exactly the right time. From next season onwards, our labels can offer this service to the retail industry in an even more convincing manner”, says Marion Hoferer, the owner of the fashion agency. She relies on collections that are spot on in terms of message and product in general, as well as on suppliers that are willing to share the risk with retailers by offering transparent warehouse systems. The agency remains true to its concept of presenting extraordinary products manufactured by real specialists. The concept is embedded in smaller topics and concise collections that can stand alone, but can also inject much desired variety into the product range. “MODEist’s clear message has transformed into a label in its own right. One can earn good money with our collections, especially in times like these! Issues such as delivery times, zeitgeist, exclusivity in one location, price-performance ratio, and warehousing are all taken into account and optimised.” Marion Hoferer has added a few new names to her brand portfolio, such as the German jacket and bag label Pride to be and the Italian knitwear specialist Alessandra Bi. The latter impresses with extraordinary styles made of cashmere and silk. Labels: Alessandra Bi, Another Bag, B. Belt, Blaumax, Dolores, Gvyn, Guardian Angels, Kobo, Lolliqueen, Montgomery, Musthaves by Montgomery, My Cosy Couture, Pride to be, Sassi Cara, Wannahaves by Montgomery MODEist GmbH, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com
www.alberto-pants.com
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Aco Germany Active Goes Fashion The Aco Germany fashion agency has added new labels to its portfolio. Stefano Mortari, whose Curriculum Vitae includes household names such as Hermès, Moncler, and Yamamoto, has already enjoyed success with his collection in his Italian domestic market. Mortari’s label specialises in knitwear that utilises special knitting techniques. Mortari has now tasked Aco Germany and Aco Austria to promote the brand exclusively in their respective countries. Vertiga, a new label based in Bologna, also focuses on knitwear. It has teamed up with Visionnaire, a renowned luxury interior store, to create a collection defined by minimalist styles that a new twist to traditional and more modern knitting yarns. Moreover, Michael Schulz, the agency’s CEO, sees great potential in brands that serve the Active Sportswear market and have initiated a re-launch in the fashion segment. “The French ski brand Fusalp is an excellent example”, Michael Schulz points out. “Following the takeover by the Lacoste family and a repositioning in France via pop-up presentations at Colette and SIS in Bon Marché, as well as opening a new flagship in Marais, Fusalp is now aiming for a strong presence in key European markets. Aco has been accompanying this re-launch for the last three seasons.” Labels: AnneClaire, Dsquared Underwear, Ebony&Ivory, Front Row Society, Fracomina, Fusalp, Gas Jeans, Geospirit, Hydrogen, Iceberg, Just Cavalli, Moschino Underwear, Parosh, Peuterey, Pinko, Rebecca Minkoff, Seventy, Stefano Mortari, Superjeans of Sweden, Space Style Concept, Versace Collection, Versace Underwear Aco Modeagentur, Stefano Mortari’s knitwear collection Düsseldorf/Germany, with sophisticated manufacturing info@acomode.de, techniques is a new addition to Aco’s www.acomode.de portfolio.
Adventure Fashion Agency No Adventures Bernhard Aschauer and Marc Kofler know their own strengths. They specialise in creating a sustainable sales network for brands, supported by their in-house distribution and logistics expertise. The co-owners of Adventure Fashion Agency acknowledge that retailers are more risk averse than ever before. Nevertheless, the retailers still look for zest. For example, the kind of zest offered by the Onomato collection. Onomato offers shirts and scarves featuring Snoopy, Star Wars, and other cartoon and fantasy heroes. Swift delivery, always in stock, and straight onto the shelves - that’s Onomato. These factors won over clients such as Lodenfrey and Jades. “You need that playful element and pieces that are entertaining in a collection that still yield adequate results in terms of sales”, Marc Kofler says. New additions to the agency’s brand portfolio are the labels Historic, Del Mare 1911, and Flannel Bay. Labels: 120%, Berna, Del Mare 1911, Flannel Bay, Historic, Invicta, Jenny Packham, Maiocci, Matchless, Maurizio Massimino, Mes Demoiselles, Onomato, Plein Sud Jeanius, Reiko, Superga, Witty Knitters, Zenggi Adventure Fashion GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.431049, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de
A new high flyer in the portfolio of Adventure Fashion Agency: Onomato.
Another Souvenir New Gem
The newest gem at Another Souvenir: friendship bracelets by Estella Bartlett.
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Another Souvenir - the company name hints at what this agency is all about: accessories and mementos of a very special kind. The business, founded by Tommy Wieler and Vanessa Baroni-Wieler, is based in Leinfelden near Stuttgart. It specialises in jewellery manufacturers whose products can be ordered throughout the year and can therefore serve the demands of retailers immediately. The newest gem in the agency’s portfolio is Estella Bartlett, which Another Souvenir now represents in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The London-based label manufactures costume jewellery such as necklaces and bracelets with playful pendants in attractive packaging at affordable retail prices (between 25 and 35 Euros). In its domestic market, Estella Bartlett is listed at large department stores such as Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, and Harrods. After convincing renowned German retailers such as Gebrüder Heinemann and Breuninger, success in the German-speaking markets is surely only a matter of time. Labels: Anna + Nina, Brands of L.A., Bread & Boxers, Briston, La Môme Bijoux, Paulo Coelho Pure Icons, Vanessa Baroni, Wood’D, Zinga Another Souvenir, Leinfelden/Germany, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, www.anothersouvenir.de
Each bag tells its own story. Discover the world with them.
H app y New Year. E XCLU S IV I TY R E BO R N. 100% LIMIT ED EDIT ION LU XURY. WWW.QUA NT UMCO U R AG E . CO M
Apropos I Munich, Cologne, D端sseldorf
August Pf端ller I Frankfurt
Antora Selection I Baden-Baden
Different Fashion I Mannheim
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Agentur Toepfer New Styles for the Masses
Unique items - 3D printing allows United Nude to pursue countless design options.
Deluxe Distribution Printed Shoes United Nude, an Italian shoe label, launched another model for its 3D collection during the Vogue Fashion’s Night Out in Taipei, Taiwan. The entire substructure - including the heel - of the “Ice Shoe” model is inspired by a block of ice that has been formed into a geometric sculpture. It consists of PLA filament, which is a biodegradable plastic that is made from renewable resources such as corn starch or sugar cane and can be easily processed by 3D printers. The straps of the high-heels are made of leather. Rem D Koolhaas, the creative director of United Nude, explains: “The 3D printing process allows us to experiment with new shapes and to implement these new shapes in small quantities more quickly and without massive development costs. Designing a unique shoe for a special occasion has never been easier. I must confess that I really like this very immediate working process.” Retailers will be afforded the opportunity to order the high-heel models from the 3D collection in the near future. Labels: Ben Sherman Footwear, Kerbholz, Kling, Minimum, Minus, Schutz, Skunkfunk, Smash, United Nude, WeSC Deluxe Distribution, Berlin/Germany, info@deluxe-distribution.de, www.deluxe-distribution.de
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Udo Toepfer has added yet another gem to his impressive brand portfolio. It was love at first sight. The agency states that it was instantly impressed by the “gorgeous dresses”. We’re referring to Smarteez, a brand from the Plissée stable designed by Marta Forghieri. The dresses, blouses, and skirts are made of poplin, silk, crepe, and cool wool. The most striking designs are the block colour patterns in the style of 1970s. The average purchase prices range from 80 to 150 Euros. In addition, the brand plans to introduce woollen patchwork coats, as well as furs, a number of dresses, casual blouses, and trousers. Labels: 8pm, Barena, Betta Corradi, Circolo 1901, Erika Cavallini, F-Cashmere, Faliero Sarti, Feel the Piece, GMS 75, Holy Ghost, Ma´ry´ya, Myths, Siyu, Smarteez, VSP Agentur Toepfer, Düsseldorf and Munich/Germany, office@agentur-toepfer.com, www.agentur-toepfer.com
Smarteez is a colourful new addition to Agentur Toepfer’s brand portfolio.
Agentur Stefan Wittmann Exciting Newcomers The latest addition to the portfolio Agentur Wittmann, a fashion agency based in Düsseldorf, is Italian brand Baroni. Mid-December, the agency made the decision to act as the men’s trousers specialist’s general agent for the German market. The collection consists of the three lines Classic, Sportive, and Denim, thereby offering chinos and wool trousers, as well as corduroy pants and jeans. Starting this season, Stefan Wittmann is also the general agent in Germany and From elegant to sporty: Baronio trousers Austria for the German brand Ten117. are available in a myriad of variants. In addition to the brands listed below, Agentur Wittmann is the trade agent for the brands Absurd, Canadian Classics, Gardenia Copenhagen, and Shoe Biz in the areas Hessen, Rhineland-Palatinate, Saarland, and North-Rhine Westphalia, as well as for the brand Daniele Fiesoli in the zip code areas 0 to 5. Labels: Baronio, Carlie Joe, Daily’s Nothing Better, Daniele Fiesoli Shirts, I Love My Moment, La Fée Marabouée, Litchi, Moment by Moment, Nima 1708, P448, Project Foce, Silvian Heach, Ten117, Trevor’S Choice, Ylati Agentur Stefan Wittmann, Düsseldorf/Germany, T. 0049.211.58589690, stefan. wittmann@agentur-wittmann.de, www.agentur-wittmann.de
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The Panorama trade show can be experienced twice this season - physically and virtually.
Panorama Physical and Virtual Reality This season there will be two versions of the Panorama trade show in Berlin. The first is the physical event from the 19th to 21st of January. The second, which starts one day after the first is over, extends the Panorama to a full season in virtual form. The trade show’s brand presentations are brought to life on the Internet, thus enabling registered visitors to view all nine halls in 360° vision, in photo quality and with precision 3D mapping. Clickable POIs (Points of Interest) provide visitors with access to further information such as a look-book and contact data. “Consumers expect 24h access to brands and virtual world experiences”, says Jörg Wichmann, the CEO of Panorama Berlin. “We are pursuing this trend too, even though Panorama Berlin is a pure B2B platform.” The event also strives to present a full spectrum of exhibitors and has expanded by introducing the new Nova Concept as a platform for trendsetting fashion and curated lifestyle items. The Nova Concept found its home in hall 9. That particular hall, which dates back to 1920 and has nine metre high ceilings, is the perfect backdrop for the new concept. 19th to 20th of January 2016, www.panorama-berlin.com
© Jochen Zick@actionpress
Show & Order Early Kick-Off
Verena Malta is at the helm of the Show & Order concept and has, as always, many exciting additions in store.
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The Show & Order trade show for autumn/winter 2016, which starts a day earlier than usual, showcases more than 250 brands. “We remain true to our ‘Forever Moving Forward’ motto”, says Verena Malta, the managing director of the trade fair. Accordingly, the Show & Order has positioned itself at the start of the Fashion Week on the 18th of January 2016 with a so-called Early Bird Showdown. “Our initiative enables exhibitors and retailers a service-oriented and industry-specific exhibition kick-off.” The Show & Order has also welcomes a few newcomers, such as Raw, Mica Design, Seulement en Detail, Redirection, FederRock, and Sincerely Jules. One of the most innovative areas is the SO by Show & Order segment for accessories and lifestyle. “French brands are enjoying a lot of success at the moment and they underline the international appeal of the trade show”, Malta explains. “Even the accessories area is becoming increasingly important. The customers have realised that the right choice of accessories does not only make the PoS more inspiring, but also generates significant revenues.” This includes
collections such as Reptiles’ House, Gas Bijoux, Evél Juwel, and Pernille Corydon. In addition, the trade show has hired Marie-Lise Theiner as its new international brand manager. “My job is to enhance our strengths and our presence in the international market by increasing brand awareness”, the Canadian-born manager explains. “The Show & Order is an excellent concept with enormous potential.” 18th to 20th of January 2016, www.showandorder.com
Brand manager Marie-Lise Theiner is a new team member.
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Berlin, 19th – 21th January ´16 Stand H3-E14
Firenze, 12th - 15th January ´16 Area Teatrino - Cortile della Ghiaia
AGENTUR STEFAN WITTMANN, DÜSSELDORF VOLMERSWERTHER STRAßE 32 +49 211 5858 96 90 STEFAN.WITTMANN@AGENTUR-WITTMANN.DE
MATTHIAS SCHWARTE, MUNICH HEINRICH KLEY STRAßE 6 +49 893 580 57 6 M.SCHWARTE@AGENTUR-SCHWARTE.DE
PETER MEYER PM FASHION, SALZBURG CARL-ZUCKMAYER-STR.38 M1-EG/ TOP2 +43 676 330 324 2 OFFICE@PMFASHION.AT
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Premium, Seek and Bright Inspiration and Innovative Strength The three Berlin trade shows organised by the Premium Group present approximately 1,600 collections, of which more than 80% come from abroad. The events cover the segments Advanced Contemporary Fashion, Urban Contemporary Menswear, Streetwear, and Boardsport. “With a share of 20 to 30 percent of new labels each season, as well as the continuous integration of innovative concepts, each of the three platforms provides a visionary view of the market without losing sight of the industry’s business needs”, Anita Tillmann, the managing director of the trade shows, says. She adds: “In our individualised, completely informed, and global society, fashion has developed into a highly complex and challenging subject. This means that our trade fairs need to be flexible, unbiased, and innovative. Most of all, they need to be proactive, rather than merely reacting to change. Our platforms afford retailers an up-to-
date overview of what the current market situation requires. Within the individual fashion segments, all three trade shows re-evaluate, refine, and re-arrange their respective brand portfolios. Each of the events organised by the Premium Group is aimed very precisely at the specific market conditions and demands of its respective target groups. Through constructive dialogue, we manage to draw borders between the trade shows and optimise the profile of the portfolios. Each trade fair acts as a market place in its own right; the three events are a meeting place of supply and demand in their defined segments. The result: clear structures, ideal orientation, and a distinct business focus.” Premium, Seek, and Bright, 19th to 21st of January 2016, www.premiumexhibitions.com, www.seekexhibitions.com, www.brighttradeshow.com
The Premium Group is renowned for its reliability, quality, professionalism, and service.
ispo Munich Innovations Four years after the first edition of ispo Textrends, a platform for pioneering textile trends, innovative materials, and sportswear components, the event has decided to add a Street Sports section this season. Furthermore, ispo Textrends focuses on hybrid, natural, and lightweight fabrics. In hall C3, the event showcases 371 products in the nine categories Base Layer, Second Layer, Outer Layer, Membranes & Coatings, Accessories, Trims, Fibres & Insulation, Soft Equipment, and Street Sports. The aforementioned products are selected by a jury consisting of independent experts. Peter Waeber, the CEO of bluesign Technologies and a member of said jury, explains: “There has been a huge increase in innovations and the industry presented some very 116 style in progress
strong products to the jury. As a neutral platform, ispo Textrends is a mandatory event for every designer seeking inspiration. The diversity of the jury ensures that the right selection is made.” In addition, designers and product developers are afforded the opportunity to engage in networking and sourcing on-location. Furthermore, the event stages four lectures on current issues within the textile industry every day. Those who can’t take part in the forum in person can browse the topics in the ispo Textrends book or app from late January 2016 onwards. The app can be found in Apple’s iOS App Store by searching for “Textrends”. 24th to 27th of January 2016, www.ispo.com
Gallery Upgraded Portfolio The countdown to the Gallery trade show in its new location on the grounds of the former Böhler area has begun. The atmospheric industrial halls are the perfect setting for the areas Agencies & Premium Fashion, Accessories and Festive Fashion. In addition, the event has added the segments Fast Fashion, Lifestyle, and Organic Fair Trade Fashion. “The new segments are yet another service upgrade for our customers and document the versatility of the Gallery trade show”, says Ulrike Kähler, the project director for domestic fashion shows. The Gallery has managed to persuade many old acquaintances to move from the former Botschaft venue to the Böhler premises. The exhibitors include labels and agencies such as D-tails, Die Hinterhofagentur, Moderaum Fischer, and Agentur Klauser. The Gallery’s repertoire also includes Anett Röstel, Ümit Ünal, Rundholz, and Beate Heymann Streetcouture. The Red Carpet hall, located in the old spring factory, was almost fully booked as early as October. The trade show has planned separate events for the Red Carpet area and the Gallery itself. The Böhler premises can be easily accessed from the major hotels and several locations in the city by utilising a shuttle service. Furthermore, the trade show tickets are also valid for public transport. The event offers no less than 1,500 parking spots on location. Gallery: 29th of January to 1st of February 2016, Red Carpet: 31st of January to 2nd of February 2016, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com
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Munich Fabric Start 20, Yet Ageless To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the trade show, the team behind the Munich Fabric Start once again decided to think outside of their comfort zone. What would fashion look like if the target groups no longer had a specific age or sex? The upcoming event in February wants to explore the exciting question of the clientele of tomorrow, which, driven by a kind of youthfulness, places very different demands on clothing. One answer is already clear: the trends for spring/summer 2017 thrive on emotions that are expressed via special materials, textile lightness, technical looks, and tactile surfaces. The Munich Fabric Start expects approximately 950 international exhibitors from 37 countries and approximately 20,000 trade visitors. Furthermore, the trade show wants to expand its exhibition area at the end of 2016.
“We are currently working on the concept for and development of a new creative space with another 2,500 square metres. It is perfectly placed between the MOC and the Zenith Hall, offering sufficient space for new ideas and areas”, says Sebastian Klinder, the managing director. The further development of the successful showin-show concept Bluezone, a denim and sportswear event, is also high on the agenda. “With its carefully compiled, international high-quality portfolio, the 40th Munich Fabric Start once again serves all important segments of the textile industry. We are confident that the trade show of 2016 builds on the constant success over the last few seasons, which makes us particularly happy given that we are celebrating our 20th anniversary”, says chief executive Wolfgang Klinder. Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone, 2nd to 4th of February 2016 www.munichfabricstart.com
The GDS showcases approximately 800 brands in February.
GDS Information Pool The 121st edition of the GDS trade fair showcases more than 800 collections in three lifestyle worlds inspired by international shopping metropolises. Timberland is the most prominent newcomer in the Highstreet area, alongside other new exhibitors such as Lyle & Scott, Rockland, Franzini, and Via Scarpa. Studio, the high-quality segment of the GDS, celebrates the return of Lottusse, flanked by newcomers such as Oliver Sweeney, La Bottega di Lisa, and Roy Robson. Last but not least, the Pop Up area in hall 10 presents the return of G-Star. In terms of trend programme, the “Digital Craft” topic of the last GDS is
taken a step further. The motto “Fusion of Digital and Real Life Shop Experience” is aimed at reconciling the two vastly different worlds. As always, the GDS fashion shows and the individual brand shows in hall 10 display the looks of the season, as do the Trend Spots in hall 5. The Fashion Blogger Café “Shoedition” enters its fourth round. It is a meeting point for fashion bloggers where, before the actual start of the GDS, the elected blogger testimonial presents personally selected trends and also hosts lectures on the blogger business. 10th to 12th of February 2016, www.gds-online.com
The Supreme Group’s Aline Schade welcomes the group’s strategic expansion.
Supreme Women&Men Entering the B2C Segment Munichfashion Company GmbH/The Supreme Group, a fashion fair organiser based in Munich, has decided to expand its portfolio by acquiring four B2C trade shows from TMS, an insolvent rival headquartered in Dresden. The events in question are pet-related trade fairs in Hannover, Dresden, and Munich, as well as the Kulinarium & Vinum event in Dresden. All the aforementioned trade shows will be marketed under the umbrella brand “The Supreme Group” in the future. In addition, the group secured the rights to two other events in the B2C segment. Aline Schade, the managing director, explains: “We are delighted to have completed the takeover of the trade shows formerly organised by the insolvent TMS Dresden and are eager to face the challenge of leading these exciting events into a successful future. Upon the acquisition, we took over four employees from TMS; they will assist our dynamic team in developing the trade shows.” With eleven order shows per year in Munich and Düsseldorf, which are all staged under the umbrella brand “The Supreme Group”, the Munichfashion Company GmbH is among the leading organisers of fashion fairs in Germany. In addition, the company manages its two permanently rented trade show locations: MTC Haus 1 in Munich and B1 in Düsseldorf. The two locations host more than 30 third-party events per year. Supreme Women&Men Düsseldorf, 30th of January to 2nd of February 2016 Supreme Women&Men Munich, 13th to 16th of February 2016
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Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734
Buy online: www.florisvanbommel.de
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Quinto Ego Not Worn, But Lived
Ginger and Ruby From Mini to Maxi
Menil Tradition and Modernity
The brand name explains the team. In 2011, Matteo Squassoni teamed up with three other Tuscan artists to found Quinto Ego, a label that specialises in fashion accessories. The fifth team member is quasi the embodiment of creativity and its inspirational spirit. In 2015, Quinto Ego started distributing its unusual jewellery in Germany via D-tails, a fashion agency headquartered in Munich. Ever since, the brand has inspired a growing fan base with jewellery that gains its characteristic look through special refining processes. Quinto Ego only uses sterling silver. The material undergoes an artificial ageing process that gives its appearance and texture a distinct vintage look. The motto of Quinto Ego, which takes pride in the fact that all items are hand-crafted in Italy, is: “Not Worn, But Lived”. The average purchase prices of bestsellers such as the Horseshoe ring or the Amor ring range from 65 to 70 Euros. Quinto Ego, Carrara/Italy, T 0039.0585.74696, info@quintoego.com, www.quintoego.com
Munich-based brand Ginger and Ruby has already made a name for itself as an upscale knitwear collection consisting of fashion accessories for boys, girls, and babies. However, its reputation reaches far beyond the confinements of children’s rooms. For autumn/ winter 2016, designer Aylin Krüger has decided to expand her lovingly crafted style world by adding a line for women. The new range consists of knitted tops, scarves, hats, and various home accessories, which are all made of finest Mongolian cashmere. “The quality of the products and the relaxed style convinced us”, says Hinterhofagentur’s Julia Meuer. The Munich-based agency only recently agreed to distribute Ginger and Ruby’s women’s fashion line in Germany and Austria. With purchase prices ranging from 60 to 90 Euros for sweaters and from 30 to 75 Euros for scarves and hats, Ginger and Ruby targets trend-conscious independent stores and upscale women’s boutiques. Ginger and Ruby, Munich/Germany, T 0049.179.7710752, design@gingerandruby.com, www.gingerandruby.com
The Menil brand stands for honest products with a sophisticated and colourful look, contemporary standards, and workmanship of the highest quality. The history and the name of the brand are a tribute to André Menil, the grandfather of the founder, who travelled throughout Europe in his capacity as a yarn and fabric trader. Menil’s classic quilted jackets embody British country lifestyle and are manufactured in the traditional manner in East London. The product range consists of six models for women and men in 14 colours, including a model with a hood, a vest, and a bomber jacket. In London, the label also manufactures five duffle coat models for women and men made of double-face wool material in up to 14 colours. The retail prices range from 199 to 399 Euros; the calculation factor is between 2.5 and 2.6. Menil’s scarves, leather accessories, and the “Honoré” bag collection are also produced in Europe. Inspired by original Parisian designs, the latter are made of viscose as an outer material and boast handles and appliqués of high-quality saddle leather. Menil offers four bags in 20 colours in sizes S to M for women, as well as a unisex shopper and a weekender. Panorama Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.30212621, fs@panorama-europe.de, www.menil.eu
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Bonvirage Crazy, Sexy, Cool
Feneun Neck Flatterers
Heritage Stitch Zero Basics
Bonvirage, a label based in Düsseldorf, specialises in printed leggings and tights in styles that range from discreet and reserved to striking and expressive. The ad-hoc collection relies on solid, high-quality fabrics and all items are manufactured in Italy. From January onwards, the brand offers pre-orders; it has also decided to add skin-tight, low-fit leather trousers made of supple, stretchy lambskin to its collection. “The durable and ultra-comfortable material, in combination with the feminine 5-pocket cut, results in a very special and expressive item of clothing. Clever details, such as the zipper on the inside of the leg, guarantee versatility and freedom in terms of styling. No more than two simple steps can transform a sexy skinny cut into trendy leather pants with a slight flare”, Bonvirage’s Hye-Won Weidekamp explains. The retail prices range from 99 to 119 Euros. The label’s customer list includes household names such as Petra Teufel, Richie, Fashion Clinic, Stierblut, Steffl, Weiss, and The Address Idea Prague. In January, the collection is on display at Who’s Next Paris, Showroom Düsseldorf, and Premium Order Munich. Bonvirage Clothing, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.6902573, info@bonvirage-clothing.com, www.bonvirage-clothing.com
Clara Chrocziel studied fashion in Munich and Florence, worked for brands such as Moncler, Schumacher, and Hugo Boss, and finally launched her own label in 2014. She named her brand, which focuses exclusively on elaborately manufactured scarves, Feneun. Digital prints, hand-painted details, and Jacquard patterns - the designer has come up with a huge range of ideas to ensure that her scarves are truly unique. Her items are hand-crafted in a family-run manufactory in Tuscany. The label’s list of first commercial customers includes the likes of Helmut Eder in Kitzbühel and Boutique Schröder in Munich. The purchase prices range between 30 and 180 Euros, while the owner recommends retail prices between 90 and 490 Euros. All scarves and shawls are manufactured in a controlled volume; most models are kept in stock - as long as supply lasts. The world of Feneun can be explored at trade shows such as Premium Berlin, Premiere Classe Paris, and Scoop London. Feneun, Clara Chrocziel, Munich/ Germany, T 0049.172.1400816 sales@feneun.com, www.feneun.com
This small, upscale knitting factory in the city of Carpi, located in the Italian province Modena, specialises in artful fine/coarse knitwear and - most importantly - in the extraordinary art of embroidery. Valentino de Luca was convinced by the overall concept of the charming family business which - managed by the third generation - still hand-crafts classic Italian items on machinery from days long gone. “These are very special knitwear items, characterised by artful embroidery and highly unusual knitting patterns. That’s what inspired me to choose the name Heritage Stitch, because this is traditional craftsmanship. The company offers fine and coarse knitwear, but no basics. These are all unique items”, the designer explains. The collection will be made available to order for the first time in January and February 2016 and will be delivered in July 2016. Heritage Stitch offer six models for men and women respectively, in four to six colours each. The retail prices range from 189 to 329 Euros. The sales representative in Germany is Lars Fischer, while the Austrian market is covered by Parisa Engel. The sales agent for Switzerland is Modeagentur Sacha Rohr. Valentino de Luca, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.45239893, valentino@luckydeluca.com, www.luckydeluca.com
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ciff.copenhagen.hot I.HOT II.CPM.Moskau. Panorama.cpd.fashion.week.d端sseldorf. fashion.premiere. Creation Gross GmbH & Co. KG // HoubirgstraSSe 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Germany // www.cg.fashion Phone +43 (0) 664 4 12 35 17 // e-mail: h.kitzler@carlgross.com
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Sloww Sporty Design DNA
Andrea Zori Silent Luxury
Ucon Acrobatics Balance and Agility
These sneakers are defined by history and values. In 1923, the shoe brand Andrea Zori was founded by a family business in the province of Veneto. The province can look back on an 800 year tradition in terms of shoe craftsmanship and local companies still rely on the traditional manufacturing techniques that were passed on from one generation to the next. Quality remains the main product philosophy to this day. In the end, the family business of Giorgio and Paolo Xoccato, which also owns the shirt brand Xacus, took over Andrea Zori and started implementing an international expansion strategy. The core of the brand is its unmistakable design signature, which is augmented by the fact that all shoes are manufactured in Italy. The focus is on luxurious premium sneakers, as well as a shoe and accessories collection consisting of products that are co-ordinated in terms of material, finishing, and look. With purchase prices for the high-quality sneakers in reduced designs ranging from 85 to 100 Euros, the brand is clearly targeted at premium fashion retailers. This January, Munich-based Heritage Agents started distribution in Germany and Austria and the pre-view managed to convince renowned customers. In addition to its main collection, Andrea Zori is also eager to offer a small NOS programme for classic shoes. Heritage Agents presents the brand for the first time at the Pitti Uomo in Florence. Andrea Zori, Vicenza/Italy, T 0039.0445.697000, info@xacus.com, www.andreazori.com
In 2001, Jochen Smuda and Martin Fussenegger decided to launch Ucon Acrobatics, their vision of a lifestyle brand defined by clean design, creativity, and high-quality workmanship. The brand knows no compromises in terms of quality and production. In the future, the two entrepreneurs, who are based in a studio located on Berlin’s lively Boxhagener Platz, want to focus exclusively on their 80-piece bag and rucksack collection. The brand exports its products to the United States, Canada, Australia, and many European countries. The retail prices range from 29 to 89 Euros. The founders are not only dedicated to corporate social responsibility, but also support the German World Hunger Initiative, PETA, and Germany’s Relief Coalition. The distribution in North and East Germany is handled in-house. In South and West Germany, the brand is represented by Lake Distribution. This season, the collection will be showcased at the Pitti in Florence, the Seek in Berlin, the Jacket Required in London, and the Liberty in Las Vegas. Ucon Acrobatics, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.89204861, hello@ucon-acrobatics.com, www.ucon-acrobatics.com
Daniela Huber, the founder of Sloww, has chosen “deceleration with style” as the motto for herself and her brand, which also explains the choice of the name. Focusing on a sophisticated - yet unobtrusive - design philosophy, she offers luxurious layering pieces that are suited to indoors and outdoors alike. Every item is designed in Switzerland and hand-crafted in Germany. The brand only utilises high-end Italian wool and fabrics. Daniela Huber attaches great importance to an ecological footprint, especially as she perceives her casual luxury collection as a personal antithesis to her previous career as a designer for various function-oriented sport brands. Sloww strives to process renewable materials - including specially developed fabrics such as Caregora, the first certified Angora fibre - as carefully and resource-efficient as possible. The Salzburg-born fashion designer founded Sloww in 2014 in Bern together with Designresource, her creative agency. Her first collection for autumn/winter 2016 consists of seven models with a focus on jackets and ponchos. The retail prices range from 379 to 699 Euros. Designresource, Liebefeld/Switzerland, T 0041.31.9810142, info@sloww.ch, www.sloww.ch
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Pianura Studio Inspired by Sun
P448 O Sole Mio
Costumein All About Shirts
P448, an Italian label specialising in designer sneakers, was founded in 2012 and follows the motto “You can surf later”. What the label is trying to say is that one should relish every moment in its sneakers and that everything else can wait. The collection includes popular models such as running, skater, slip-on, and tennis sneakers combining exclusive materials such as full-grain leather, suede, mesh, and canvas with brightly coloured patterns and lettering. The shoes with cool prints and vintage finishes are available for both women and men. Customers can choose between flat or half-high versions. The brand only uses leather that is tanned in Italy. All styles have a washable foot bed and are lined with terry cloth. The collection consists of 70 styles at retail prices between 169 and 219 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.8. Every season, the brand launches a small capsule collection consisting of modified bestsellers from the main collection. P448 already has 250 customers in Italy alone. It has another 250 customers in the Netherlands, Belgium, Spain, Germany, and Austria. From the coming season onwards, P448 will also export to Korea, Norway, Greece, France, and Switzerland. The collection can be viewed at the Premium in Berlin, the Premium Order in Munich, and the GDS in Düsseldorf. Free Srl, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.36509848, info@p448.it, www.p448.it
What distinguishes this shirt brand from its rivals? The answer is unconventional details such as different distances within the button tape. What makes the shirts unique? “The shirts still smell like the sea after several washes”, says Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, the owner of D-tails. His fashion agency added Costumein to its brand portfolio in August last year. Founded in winter 2013, Costumein, an Italian shirt specialist headquartered near Naples, has since developed into an extraordinary collection which is now sold in Italy, Germany, and Japan. The driving force behind the brand is Alessandro Adamo, who, as the son of a textile dynasty, grew up with production know-how and a love for precise tailoring. His very special niche collection is specifically targeted at independent, individual stores which appreciate his innovative approach, high quality standards, originality in terms of product, and functional, fashionable details. Costumein produces two collections per year with seasonal delivery cycles. Six styles are available as a NOS programme and the purchase prices for shirts range from 48 to 58 Euros. The calculation factor stands between 2.5 and 2.8. D-tails showcases the brand at the trade shows Panorama and Gallery. Costumein, Bacoli/Italy, T 0039.366.1971320, info@costumein.com, www.costumein.com
Anna and Salvatore Pianura are not only brother and sister, but also an unbeatable team when it comes to the art of knitwear manufacturing. They founded their business as early as 1980 and are currently represented at more than 900 points of sale in more than 40 countries. The export business now accounts for more than 50 percent of the company’s sales. From their headquarters in Rome, the siblings co-ordinate every single production step in their own production plants. This is made possible by the fact that all Pianura Studio’s women’s fashion items and accessories are 100% Italian and manufactured within its home country. That is the brand’s greatest strength, mainly because it allows the label to implement experimental designs and prints - inspired by the Op-Art of the early 1970s, with unusual pattern and material combinations, loud patchworks, and a broad palette of colour - independently. Pianura Studio is the only top-segment collection that offers clothing up to size 48; it offers two main collections and two pre-collections per year. D-tails, the Munich-based fashion agency owned by Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, was chosen as the sales representative as of autumn/winter 2016. The agency will present the collection for the first time at the Gallery trade show in Düsseldorf. Coppolecchia-Reinartz believes that the label’s price-performance ratio, with purchase prices ranging from 65 Euros for trousers to 80 Euros for knitwear, is its biggest asset: “It is the right time for special Italian items like Pianura Studio, but we also need certain price limits.” Crimson Industries, Rome/Italy, T 0039.06.783661, info@pianurastudio.it, www.pianurastudio.it
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THE ICONIC BOMBER SCHOTT NYC MA-1
www.schott.eu | SEEK Contemporary Fashion Trade Show, 19.-21.01.16, BOOTH C-67 New Showroom: Fichtenstr. 70, 40233 D端sseldorf
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La Jolie With Hand and Heart
Nicole Benisti Canadian Glamour
Alessandra Bi For Proud Softies
Large format fur trimmings on hoods and hems, glamorous material combinations, and fashionable cuts – these elements are the signature of Nicole Benisti, a charismatic fashion designer who is currently Canada’s fashion figurehead. Montreal is an integral part of the brand’s DNA, which combines the raw nature of Canada with international high-fashion standards. The brand’s product ranges are called Nicole Benisti Luxury, Nicole Benisti Signature Collection, NB Series, and M (menswear). The most popular items, such as parkas with colourful fur elements in pink, fuchsia, light blue, and white, are offered as a NOS programme for autumn/winter 2016. After all, the use of such trend colours for the fur elements is the main strength of the brand. As of this season, Munich-based fashion agency D-tails is the brand’s distributor. Purchase prices between 300 and 1,000 Euros position Nicole Benisti in the premium retail segment. “I was convinced by the price-performance ratio of the parkas. This is a product that we selectively offer to approximately 30 customers from the highest premium segment in Germany and Austria”, says Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, the owner of the fashion agency. Nicole Benisti, Montreal/Canada, T 001.514.3840140, customerservice@nmbenisti.com, www.nicolebenisti.com
BMA, an Italian knitwear specialist based in the Tuscan city of Sansepolcro, is renowned for its extraordinary seamless circular knitting techniques. When the company launched the Alessandra Bi brand in summer 2015, it took on a completely new challenge: BMA calls it the “Easy Way of Cashmere”. The aim is to design the extremely luxurious knitwear items, manufactured exclusively in Italy, in a manner that allows them adapt to every situation and figure perfectly, thereby making everyday life just that little bit softer. The collection consists of approximately 30 items of which everyone has a character of its own - from the dress to the knitted overall. The focus is on striking silhouettes and highly fashionable cuts. The retail prices - based on a calculation factor of 2.7 - range from 300 to 400 Euros. The brand will initially launch two collections per year. ModeIst, the fashion agency of Marion Hoferer, started representing Alessandra Bi in Germany and Austria late last year and will showcase the brand for the first time at the upcoming Premium trade show in Berlin. She plans to place the feminine cashmere collection at upscale specialist retailers, which usually have a penchant for such unique niche labels. BMA, Sansepolcro/Italy, T 0039.0575.720357, info@alessandrabi.com, www.alessandrabi.com
Sandy Perez-Martinez, a designer based in Munich, has a passion for the perfect fabric. She leaves nothing to chance to ensure she has access to those perfect fabrics season after season. To this end, she develops a majority of the fabrics she uses herself. Blouses, which are the heart and soul of La Jolie’s collection, are made of finest Liberty silk. The resulting exclusive and unique prints, designs, and material combinations enrich her extravagant, vivacious, and feminine women’s fashion collection - 100% Made in Germany. Founded in Munich in 2013, La Jolie has already convinced customers such as Susanne Benter, which is a store that embodies the ideal positioning of the brand. It is an individual, owner-managed boutique with an urban, sophisticated product range. For the autumn/winter season 2016, Sandy Perez-Martinez managed to appoint Hinterhofagentur’s Julia Meuer as a sales agent. The purchase price for silk blouses stands at 110 Euros, while the prices for dresses range from 150 to 170 Euros. The purchase prices for short coats and blazers range from 120 to 150 Euros. Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.38887747, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.lajolie.cc
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Pride to be Highest Concentration!
Lumberjack Fresh Start
Begg & Co Cashmere Dreams
After approximately six years of abstinence, the Lumberjack shoe brand returned to the German market in 2013. At this point, Lumberjack had found a new owner in Turkish Ziylan Group, adapted its product strategy, and relocated to its new corporate headquarters in Milan. For autumn/ winter 2016, the brand has teamed up with Munich-based fashion agency D-tails, which has decided to focus its efforts on the fashion retail industry rather than shoe retailers. After all, Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz strongly believes that the exclusive positioning of the commercially oriented collection is Lumberjack’s most valuable asset. The purchase prices range from 50 to 65 Euros. Lumberjack has retained its outdoor and adventure character to this day, but the product range for women, men, and children has outgrown the initial brand DNA and the brand now merely celebrates the famous Yellow Boot as a heritage product. The shoes are manufactured on the Riviera del Brenta, one of Italy’s traditional shoe manufacturing competence centres. Lumberjack, Milan/Italy, T 0039.0422.1580650, info@lumberjack.it, www.lumberjack.it
Begg & Co, headquartered on Scotland’s West Coast, stands for 150 years of cashmere processing tradition. The brand can look back at a long tradition of creating cashmere dreams, especially in the form of fabrics. Now the manufactory has decided to enter the market with their own fashion range under the label Alex Begg & Co. The designers behind the project are Michael Drake (Drake’s London) and Angela Bell (Queen & Belle). Two seasonal collections have already inspired German household names such as Lodenfrey, Bungalow, and Dantendorfer. Even die-hard cashmere fans were surprised and thrilled by the brand’s feather-light stoles. The model “Whispy”, for example, is manufactured utilising an unbelievable 8km of yarn. Another highlight is the “Nuance” line, for which five different colours of cashmere yarn are interwoven to create an incomparable colour effect. Begg & Co, Paisley/UK, T 0044.1292.267615, sales@beggandcompany.com, www.beggandcompany.com
This bold brand name is backed up by a promising team. In September 2015, Pride to be was founded as a joint project of Munich-based fashion agency ModeIst, renowned Deizisau-based leather specialist JCC, and Timothy Hoferer, a young designer based in Munich. With a small range of ten jackets and ten style-aligned bags made of finest lambskin nappa, Pride to be’s highly concentrated and concise fashion statement is targeted at customers in the upscale mid-price segment. The retail prices - based on a calculation factor of 3.0 - range from 199 Euros for bags to approximately 399 Euros for jackets. In the first season, the brand is expected to merely offer a small stock programme. The ModeIst team sees enormous potential in the small collection, mainly due to an early delivery date (June and July 2016), its excellent price-performance ratio, and the flexibility of leather specialist JCC in terms of product range development. The brand will make its debut at the Premium in Berlin and the GDS in Düsseldorf. ModeIst GmbH, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.15985591, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com
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19.01. - 21.01.2016 | BERLIN PREMIUM | STAND H7- G04, LUCKENWALDER STRASSE 4-6, 10963 BERLIN 30.01. - 02.02.2016 | DÜSSELDORF | SUPREME WOMEN & MEN | UNITED FASHION, RATHER STRASSE 49E, 2.OG, 40476 DÜSSELDORF 03.02. - 05.02.2016 | KOPENHAGEN CIFF | STAND C1- 012, BELLA CENTER, CENTER BOULEVARD 5, DK-2300 COPENHAGEN 13.02. - 16.02.2016 | MÜNCHEN | SUPREME WOMEN & MEN | AGENTUR MARTIN STECKEL, C/O ROLF GRIESINGER INTERNATIONALE MODE GMBH, AM KOSTTOR 1, 80538 MÜNCHEN
FALLWINTER2016
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Nick Wooster: “Stuff has to be good.”
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THE LONGVIEW 061
Smoking is frowned upon in New York. Nevertheless, a cigarette has become a form of trademark for Nick Wooster – as a stark contrast to his immaculate appearance.
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To say Nick Wooster dresses well is like saying Albert Einstein was pretty good at physics. Hundreds of thousands follow Wooster’s every outfit on social media and blogs, turning him into one of the most photographed men these days - at the age of 55. He carefully honed his sense of style on the sales floor, in showrooms, and in the merchandise planning department. After working as a menswear buyer for the likes of Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman, Nick Wooster turned to consulting for fashion brands. Two meetings into a job with Lardini, the Italian company known for its sophisticated style, Wooster was asked to collaborate on a collection. He agreed - and came up with a ruffled contrast to the brand’s polished style, making clear once and for all: this man cannot only get away with wearing two different shoes, he can also sell them. We wanted to know what goes into this magic and what the power structures of fashion look like from inside. Interview: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Clemens Kois, Lardini
Mr Wooster, there is a “Who The Fuck Is Nick Wooster” t-shirt by Todd Snyder. Were you part of that?
I was indeed. They wanted to make a t-shirt for an event for Townhouse in Tokyo that I went to last spring. There were some other ideas, but when I saw that one, I said: “We have to do that, it will be fun.” I mean, there is a “Fuck Yeah Nick Wooster” Tumblr, there are fan sites on Instagram and Facebook, none of which I have anything to do with. How does a 55-year-old guy do that? Even if it wasn’t happening to me, this is an interesting phenomenon. Because even if I tried, I’d never be able to do it.
But you must have done something.
I’m aware of the power of social media, I’m aware of the power of street style photography, and of how certain things photograph better than others. And yes, I wear a lot of different clothes. But I was doing that long before there was Instagram or anything like that.
You have more than half a million followers on Instagram, plus lots on Twitter and Tumblr. When did you first realise you’re getting that much exposure?
Well, I became aware of it in February of 2011. In January 2010, when I started as the men’s 116 style in progress
fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, I got my picture taken by Tommy Ton and Scott Schuman on my way to work, and they immediately put it on blogs at GQ.com and Sartorialist. Then, I would see things come up on Google Alert that were on Tumblr. I didn’t really understand, I just knew that I became content. At the time, I was aware of Twitter and Facebook, but I was unaware of Tumblr, and there was no Instagram yet. But at Bergdorf, they were starting a Tumblr account, and they were talking about it. So I sat in my apartment one morning in February 2011, and I started my own Tumblr account. Then I went to take a shower, and when I came back, there were 1,800 people following me. I thought: Oh, okay, that’s interesting. (laughs) It happened even more rapidly later on Instagram.
Seeing that the aforementioned t-shirt asks a very interesting question, what is your answer to “Who is Nick Wooster?”…
I think that the idea of Nick Wooster is way different than the reality of Nick Wooster. I’ve been working in retail for almost 40 years. I started in a clothing store when I was 15 years old. There is a lot that goes on behind those pictures. One of the downsides of social media is that it makes everything appear simple, as
if you just show up and get a picture taken. Yes, you do show up and yes, you get your picture taken, but there is a lot more that has gone on behind the scenes than those two events.
Like what?
Like what? Starting as an assistant, working as a sales person on the floor, schlepping bags around, having horrible bosses, having worked for 30 years in order to build up a career and have the opportunity to show up at these events. You have to learn! Not everybody gets an invitation to all those fashion events. Yes,
“You have got to be interested in something new, otherwise you are going to be a terrible buyer.”
more people go today than maybe used to go twenty years ago, but I had to work for it. It wasn’t just handed to me.
In the US, there is no formal education for becoming a buyer or working in retail. So how do you feel about that: Should this job be something that people need to be groomed for?
I think people need to be groomed for every job. You can’t be a good waiter unless you have been taught by a good waiter how to be a good one, and you have experience. It’s true for a salesperson, and it’s certainly true for a buyer. You don’t have to go to school for it, but you can’t just be a buyer. You have to take steps. First, you have to demonstrate that you are a good salesperson. Then maybe you manage a group of salespeople. From there, maybe you do an internship inside a buying office and you learn some of the mechanics. Later, you might learn the elements of merchandise planning. After that, you might go back into the store and manage groups of managers, and from there, you might become a merchant. Every buyer that I know has gone through quite a rigorous course of work to get there. You just don’t become one over night.
Which personality traits do you find essential for a buyer?
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Nick Wooster’s style sense impresses designers and bloggers alike. The latter can hardly contain themselves when they witness how the fashion consultant actually lives and works.
The number one trait, aside from taste, is curiosity. You have got to be interested in something new, otherwise you are going to be a terrible buyer. I like to think that taste and curiosity are the only two skills you need. Now, you obviously also need to be able to manage data and be proficient in math. And you should be good at communicating verbally, because you have to negotiate. Those are probably the main traits that a good buyer would have – then as well as today. Is there anything that has changed?
Yes, the emphasis has changed. The taste factor is probably not as important as it used to be, which is unfortunate. I think that most bosses would say data is more important than instinct. I might argue that they are equally important, but I’m sure that data is winning, because it is something reliable. You can measure data. You can’t measure instinct. Is it also necessary to have a social media profile now?
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“There will be the best, and then there will be the next best, and then there will be the things that maybe aren’t ready for primetime.”
I don’t know if it’s necessary, but it’s true. I mean, you could argue that everybody is a brand. So each buyer is a brand. Tom Ford was, in my opinion, the perfect brand ambassador for Gucci when he joined Gucci. And I think that many buyers, such as Tommy Perse at Maxfield, Fred Pressman at Barneys, and Maria from Louisa, were perfect brand ambassadors, and these were all strictly from the 80s, but they were perfect in their roles. Now the tools and the people have changed, but I think that component has always been present. The person who is steering the ship has to play the game. Just like everybody else. Now that a lot of men are being photographed, do you see that influencing menswear?
Sure! I think that street style and internet blogs in particular gave guys permission to be okay with talking about and being interested in fashion. The spotlight may have turned its attention more vividly to what men are doing.
But there has always been the peacock in menswear.
So it was there all along, but there was simply a lack of tools?
I think that it was a confluence of events. The early days of social media certainly allowed for this. But I really think that the whole thing started with “MTV Cribs”. In this TV show, they would go into sports people’s and rappers’ homes, and men would see they have a hundred pairs of sneakers. And many of them thought: Oh wow, I can have more than one pair? And that’s what started to give guys permission before the Internet democratised that access. That’s my theory anyway. (laughs) This democratisation goes hand in hand with young style icons that can’t have the experience you’re talking about. How do you feel about that?
Everybody gets to do whatever they want. It’s like a celebrity or a sports person having a clothing line. I’m sure that many real designers might argue: “Hey, I
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trained for this!” And in fact, they did. If I decided to start a pharmaceutical company tomorrow, I probably would fail, because you need considerable knowledge before you can actually make a business out of it. The fashion business is a lot easier than pharmaceuticals, but I still think ultimately the same thing applies. If you don’t know anything about the business, then you will probably fail as a business. You may get lucky, or you may find the right partner who can do those things, but I think that, for the most part, you have to be qualified. The deal with young people is that they are young. That is part of the appeal, so they don’t need to have prior knowledge. But they also won’t stay young forever. How do you see this route to success in regards to gaining follower power?
More access for everybody opens up the conversation, it’s not just an insulated small world. Now anybody who has a camera is a photographer. I’m sure much to his chagrin [points to Clemens Kois, who is photographing Nick]. And anybody who wears something is ostensibly a model. There are millions of amazing pictures of all kinds of people, not just fashion people, not just old people, not just qualified people. That’s what makes the fabric of society. But I think there is a reason why those people with a big audience get followed. They probably have something to say. Now that you have experience, the business knowledge and the following, has that changed the power that you have?
I’m sure on some level it has, but I’m not really aware of it. I mean, there are still a lot of things that I don’t get invited to. The power structures that were there before social media came into play, those retail-publishing axes of power have not changed. There is Vogue, there is GQ, there is Condé Nast, there is Bergdorf Goodman, there is Barneys New York. And I think that’s not going to change. What has been added is a third dimension of individuals, bloggers, influencers, celebrities, a whole new universe of people that were not part of the traditional axis of publishing 116 style in progress
or retail that now have influence. But it doesn’t essentially change the power dynamic. About three years ago, you said you were interested in seeing how publishing and retail would work together. So what have you seen so far?
Look at Mr Porter. That’s the perfect marriage of commerce and publishing. It appears more retail-like, but really what they do is extremely editorial: both the website and their actual, physical magazine and newspaper. That’s probably the best example of what we’ve seen, and I think it is the beginning of what’s going to happen. Lucky has gone from a shopping magazine to what you could call a catalogue, or kind of like an analogue version of that, but it’s now morphing into something online. Style.com is going to have a retail component. So I think we’re at the early stage of seeing how that’s going to undergo a metamorphosis.
mean they shouldn’t get to participate. It just means that evolution will naturally select. Maybe they’ll grow, maybe they become great. But maybe they don’t. As long as everyone’s having fun: the more, the merrier. Of course, the schedule is crazy, and yes, it sometimes makes for hard decision making.
Do you regret missed events or is it easy for you to say: Oh, well, another time?
Of course I feel bad if I miss something that was really great. And this is a terrible thing to say, but there is always another one. That’s how I feel about everything. If it doesn’t happen today, it will happen tomorrow. Or if it doesn’t happen this season, it will happen another season. And if it’s not this brand, it will be another one, mainly because of the rapid change and the volume of stuff that’s going on.
At events like the Pitti Uomo or the Paris Fashion Show, the entire buzz used to be about whether you actually got into a fashion show and where you would be seated. Now it seems like everybody is more interested in standing outside, in front of the entrance, looking at the latest street styles. How do you feel about that?
Here’s the thing: there is a reason why there is a show. If there is a universe consisting of 100 people, and 93 of them are not going to the show and they constitute the show outside, of course there will be interest in that, and that’s good. It’s part of the value and the entertainment. But street style will never eclipse Chanel, Dries van Noten, Comme des Garçons. It’s just a prologue or an epilogue, in my opinion. But not everyone showing fashion is Chanel.
If you have a marginal designer or a brand that doesn’t have much to say, then sure, the show outside could eclipse it. You could say that brand shouldn’t be showing anyway. And I think that is true about everything in life. There will be the best, and then there will be the next best, and then there will be the things that maybe aren’t ready for primetime. But that doesn’t
On the other hand, that’s part of why Raf Simons is leaving Dior. It feels like fashion is eating its own core. The pace of fashion cycles is not protecting the designers anymore, but without them there’s no fashion at all.
I think that’s a conversation worth having. I mean, it is true. Raf and Dior, Alber [Elbaz] and Lanvin - it’s a very interesting moment. I don’t think you’ve ever seen so many open positions at that many major houses at exactly the same time. I don’t want to say it’s a problem, but it’s probably not good for business to have that many open positions at the same time. It’s a symptom of an underlying cause. And do you have any idea what that underlying cause might be?
Yeah! (laughs) I think it has all been discussed. It is just too much. Too many demands, too many choices, too many shows, too much scheduling, too much stress, too much … it’s just too much. So what now?
I believe that something is going to change. And it’s going to be fascinating to watch. I think there will always be opportunity in crisis. Maybe this could be an opportunity for new, young, non-established people. Look what happened at Gucci. Alessandro Michele was relatively unknown, so that was an opportunity for somebody who was not, let’s say, primed for that next job. But he got it. We’ll see. You have started designing, too - for Lardini, for instance. If you had a fashion show, who would you place in the front row?
“I think we do a disservice to designers when we worry more about the front row than we worry about what the front row is watching.”
I don’t think it would be that different from many other front rows. It has to be the right mix of industry and outside industry. If you have too many celebrities, then it becomes like an entertainment event, and if you have too many industry people, it becomes too insulated. It’s like putting together a dinner party. You have to find the right alchemy of personalities to make it work. But ultimately, the most important criteria are the clothes, not the people who are viewing them. I think we do a disservice to designers when we worry more about the front row than
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Nick Wooster x Lardini: Nick Wooster also appreciates finest Italian fabrics in his role as a designer.
we worry about what the front row is watching.
Is the good old fashion police still around?
Of course that’s always going to be around. But maybe it’s less of a threat. Because too many people have too many independent ideas of what’s right or wrong, so that message gets diffused. I think fashion police meant something when it was more top-down dictated rather than bottom-up, which is what street style promotes. That helps set the agenda. So there is a shift in the power structure?
I wasn’t thinking about that, but yes! That’s what you alluded to before. The show being on the outside rather than the inside. I mean, of course, both things are true. There is a show going on inside and a show going on outside. And yes, that has helped shift, but I wouldn’t say it has overturned. I think that has been going on for a long time, but street style, blogs and, social
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“I am still a shopper, and I am a shopper first and foremost.”
media have accelerated the pace by which street does influence … the top, let’s say.
Who would you say determines what I will see on the sales floors nowadays?
Ultimately, I think that the customers are the ones who vote with their Dollars. But it’s important, obviously, for retailers to follow editors and it is important for editors to always have an eye on the future. And that broth is what’s driven the business for as long as there has been business. But then it’s up to the customers. If a store goes out of business, it’s because it didn’t resonate with their customers. What do you think do stores and brands have to do to get their message out?
I think it always goes back to the same factors. First of all, stuff has to be good. If it’s not good, it doesn’t matter. Secondly, water seeks its own level, which means that if it’s not worth saving, it won’t be saved. It has got to stand on its own merit.
With everything being available on the internet, how do you find what has that quality?
I think I’m still old-fashioned. When I see something in a store, it seems more real to me. I am still a shopper, and I am a shopper first and foremost. That is still the lens through which I view things. Yes, I can go to a showroom and order something. But when I see something in a store, it makes me really appreciate it. Because it means that somebody had to choose it, somebody had to write an order for it, the store had to pay for it, and then somebody had to take the care to place it by the time it finally gets to the customer. That is a lot more work than something that just sits on a rail in the showroom. So maybe being a shopper was …
That’s all I am. That’s all I’ve ever done. It’s the only thing I know how to do. (laughs)
070 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
Human Success Factor An opinion piece by Stephan Huber “People don’t want to buy from machines!” - this is, at the end of the day, a very simple truth (see Editor’s Letter, page 176). After all these years - during which self-appointed and deputised experts constantly postulated that we (as in: we humans) would buy exclusively from machines sooner or later - it is absolutely paramount to express this truth consciously. The fact that this declaration came from none other than David Schneider, one of founders and the face of e-commerce giant Zalando, in style in progress 4_15, lends it even more weight. After all, this deliberate statement emanates from the very core of a high-tech avant-garde that initially set out to replace humans. Making humans redundant has always been a fundamental element and/or the motivation of technological progress. This approach is, without doubt, sensible in certain fields and therefore constitutes REAL progress. The history of civilisation is also a history of the substitutability of man by technology. In an era of seemingly limitless acceleration, the possibilities to replace humans suddenly seemed limitless. There is a direct line between the Drive-In and driverless vehicles, between the self-scanner and high-frequency retailing, and between the calculator and medical robots. Once again, I would like to stress that many of the aforementioned innovations make perfect sense. This is not a moral treatise. It’s anything but! I am merely pondering the question what will happen when substitutability is so far advanced that it causes us humans to disappear, to be lost forever? What will happen when the idea of substitutability develops a life of its own? What’s happening now is actually quite logical. We can already witness it in very different forms. A longing or - if we lay it on less thick - need has been created: a need for that human factor. This is simplest popular psychology. Man is, evolutionally speaking, not a loner. Humans are communicative by nature. No matter how limitless the possibilities of digital communication may already be or will be in the future, nothing - absolutely nothing - can ever replace direct communication, the human touch, and - thus - humans as a whole. “People don’t want to buy from machines!” - ultimately, this statement is nothing more than an expression of this realisation. Humans are - and always will be - the crucial resource of our industry and its most important 116 style in progress
success factor. This is not merely true at the point of sale and when interacting with customers, who are incidentally also humans. We have highlighted the importance of the human element in this context several times, but the sentiment applies to all fields of our industry. Each of us will agree after reflecting on the topic. This is why we have, quite deliberately, dedicated the core section of this style in progress issue to humans. I hope that humans will also be at the core of the fashion industry, especially in the face of the upcoming and undoubtedly challenging order season.
In Memory of Olivier Burger Strolling through the Pitti Uomo and exploring the Premium Berlin with Ph. Olivier Burger was always a real highlight for me. We didn’t merely discuss fashion, but talked about almost every topic imaginable. For decades, he was not only the owner of Swiss fashion retailer PKZ, he was its driving force and soul. Burger was a truly fascinating individual and entrepreneur. At the same time, he was also both a conservative businessman – in the best sense of the term – and a visionary. He always had a strong point of view, but also always remained open to the ideas of others. In short, he was an elegant, witty Sir with a sharp sense of humour. What impressed me most was his inexhaustible curiosity. During the production of an issue of “The Look”, the PKZ customer magazine, a photographer shot a motif while lying on a dirt road. Olivier Burger wanted to share and understand the photographer’s point of view, which why Burger simply decided to lie down too. This little anecdote is always on my mind, mainly because it was so typical and likeable for the man. The news of the totally unexpected passing of Olivier Burger shortly before Christmas, has affected me and everyone at UCM-Verlag deeply. A great man has left us way too soon. I am infinitely grateful that I had the privilege of knowing Olivier Burger. Stephan Huber
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THE THE BE-ALL BE-ALL AND AND
EndAll
No business works without sales staff - everybody knows that. This rings even more true when a business lacks good sales staff. But why is there irreverence towards the profession? What has to happen - and what is already happening - to afford the profession the respect it deserves? It needs to be at eye level with the customers. style in progress asked influential figures in the industry for answers.
Text: Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
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WHAT'S THE STORY 073 HUMAN FACTOR. STATEMENTS
A GOLDEN
Opportunity
“I think the more important question is how sales assistants can make the best of their profession. The conditions are perfect. We have great product ranges, excellent labels, beautiful stores, and a brilliant merchandising strategy. What can employees do to ensure they enjoy their job? First of all, the right attitude is paramount. That is a very personal factor. If someone has the wrong attitude, even the best motivator won’t be able to change it. The most important thing in this job is the direct contact with people and a willingness to engage oneself in this contact. A salesperson needs to be aware that this profession affords tremendous opportunities! There are so many ways to encourage customers to buy a product. One can enlighten the customers by detailing the background story of a label and explaining the philosophy it is based on. It requires personal initiative to achieve success in this profession. What kind of person was the customer that just left and what can I do to make sure that the customer comes back? One can build one’s own customer base. It’s obviously even better if the boss notices the effort and encourages the sales assistant by highlighting development opportunities. I myself have worked in many fields of the retail industry. I always wanted to be a director. I was sales director and sales manager. It was important to me to have business cards with illustrious titles. But then I suddenly realised that I couldn’t think of a better profession than being a salesperson. It is always a truly wonderful feeling when the customers thank you for what you sold them.” Fritz Rogger, owner of Phänomen AG
Creative
A JOB
“I don’t have what one would call classic sales assistants in my store. Instead, I have employees who do something exciting and creative on the side, but couldn’t earn enough to support themselves by just pursuing their respective passions. This can be a sculptor, an actress, or a mobile hairdresser for children. I love this particular type of women, mainly because they are real personalities and are interesting contacts who embody my special concept and speak the same language as my customers. They usually work here three of four days; it wouldn’t work on the basis of a 450 Euro contract. If you only work in the store for one or two days a week, it is impossible to build a relationship with customers and to explain our philosophy. It seems as if the American idea of having more than one job is still frowned upon. I actually have a lot of time for this life model and have noticed that it has become increasingly popular with young people who believe a life-long career in civil service would be too boring. It is even more exciting when two jobs complement each other. Let’s say you spend a day being creative in the quiet of your studio. Meeting a lot of people in our store will be even more enjoyable after that. I can’t do a lot to change the relatively low wages for salespeople, mainly because we don’t have enough financial leeway to make a difference. What I can, however, offer is a store concept with many individual features that don’t exist in that form anywhere else. Maybe that’s why fashion students enjoy working here, because they experience our concept as much more enriching than that of a classic fashion house. What bothers me is the image of our profession. When you say that you are a sales assistant, you don’t experience admiration. This perception only changes when one explains how one can make the job exciting by meeting interesting people, dealing with great brands, and visiting the odd trade show in Paris.” Simone Chrystall, managing director of Chrystall Düsseldorf
With Heart AND SOUL
“Being a fashion consultant isn’t a moronic profession that is easy to do. Quite the contrary, one needs to be an emotional, open personality who’s capable of responding to others. By example, I strive to show my staff that a career in sales is a wonderful and rewarding profession. I offer a lot of incentives, such as internal training opportunities, which are sometimes even organised by the brands we stock. I also alternately invite employees to accompany me on order trips. By allowing them to take part in the product selection process, I ensure that they are convinced of the authenticity of the items we offer our customers. Generally, I believe that the human factor is becoming increasingly important. Some customers tell me that they deliberately avoid the Internet and would much rather visit us than shop online. In addition to offering individual advice in terms of fashion, we can also offer a hug, a cup of coffee, and a private chat. Ultimately, it is all about perceiving the customer as a human being. This is the greatest strength of the stationary retail industry. However, I would like to see the same prices online and offline. The Internet makes everything available. Today’s customers know exactly what they want and it doesn’t take more than a few mouse clicks to buy a product. We stationary retailers are called upon to provide the best personal and individual service. We need to work hard to even lure customers into the city, be it with an event to start the season or with a special fashion show. All the effort only makes sense if the products are priced similarly. A regulated sales period would be a good start. That would help the entire retail industry enormously.” Evelyn Stütz, managing director at Eve Pure Fashion Schweinfurth
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Improve PERCEPTION
074
ATTRACTIVENESS THROUGH Modernisation
“The salesperson profession remains quite attractive. The high number of training contracts - approximately 25,000 are signed every year; in addition there are 27,000 training contracts for the profession of traders in the retail sector - proves that many young people have an interest in the profession, even though it may not be the first choice in every case. Surveys tell us that trainees in the retail sector are significantly more satisfied with their career choice than they initially imagined themselves to be. Those who get to know the retail trade from the inside, see it in a positive light, especially as the industry offers excellent opportunities in terms of promotion. Four out of five executives in the retail sector have a vocational training background. The two aforementioned retail professions are currently being modernised and thus will certainly become even more attractive. The increasing digitalisation of trade processes and the linking of stationary sales with e-commerce will be reflected more noticeably in the sphere of vocational training. The retail trade, with its combination of education and advanced training (Bachelor of Trade and Commerce or Business Administrator for retail sales), is particularly attractive for high school graduates. The so-called graduate programmes provide a three-year qualification model that paves the way to higher hierarchy levels.” Wilfried Malcher, head of education and vocational training at the German Retail Association (HDE)
“Even the term used for the profession could be made more attractive. The term ‘salesperson’ suggests being a ‘cashier’. The term ‘fashion advisor’, on the other hand, essentially pushes the advice element to the forefront. After all, the job is more about advising than the mere process of operating the cash till. The salesperson profession is not perceived as particularly attractive from the outside, mainly because the salesperson is seen as nothing more than a source of revenue. Once you award employees more responsibility and opportunities for personal development, the attractiveness of the profession increases tremendously. The customers enjoy being advised by a likeable salesperson with an own opinion. It adds more excitement to the shopping experience and, naturally, it is also a way to make the values of the company more tangible. The perception of the profession could be improved through a targeted media campaign. This could improve the image, especially among young people, and make the job more attractive in general. This job isn’t just about sales and revenue targets, but also offers many commercial and creative possibilities such as merchandise management, display design, and visual merchandising, as well as purchasing support and communication with suppliers. Sometimes it can even involve attending exciting events. Last but not least, this profession allows you to express your personality and individual taste to successfully complete a sale. Internal training and coaching, as well as the willingness to allow employees to work independently, are indispensable in this respect. This makes the profession a lot more versatile and exciting than it is often perceived by outsiders.” Laurence Antiglio, owner of Vestibule Stores Zurich
EMPLOYEES
as USP
“We perceive the job description ‘salesperson’ as extremely outdated. The term itself is no longer up-to-date and isn’t really appropriate for our industry. In recent years, it has become increasingly important to be able to classify the myriad of products on the market correctly, to gain access to relevant information in terms of brands, to have in-depth knowledge regarding the properties and manufacturing methods of products, and to keep track of the various distribution channels. A salesperson in the classical form has been transformed into a selector and stylist in the sense of sommeliers, thereby combining knowledge and stylish appearance. In this context, we afford our employees the possibility to pursue their passion for fashion and fulfil themselves within their chosen career path. Our job defines a large part of our lives; it should be fun and provide positive experiences. This is why we have created room for individual training and/or educational trips. We focus on performance-related payment and flexible working hours to ensure that our employees are satisfied and fulfil their potential in terms of performance. In the upscale segment, we have very different demand priorities to those of companies serving the mass market. The main priority is qualified advice with an honest, sincere, and personal connection to our demanding customers. In this context, the relationship of trust between the customer and the advisor, in combination with indispensable professionalism, plays a vital role. In addition to a carefully selected product range, well-informed employees who identify with the business are an essential factor in terms of quality assurance. This is the only way to secure a USP in a large city like Frankfurt, even more so if one deliberately avoids e-commerce.” Michael Munz, store manager at The Listener Frankfurt
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076 WHAT'S THE STORY
Passion AND DISCIPLINE HUMAN FACTOR. STATEMENTS
“The competition has become tougher, not least due to the ascent of e-commerce. This means that we, as stationary retailers, need to invest a considerable amount of time and effort in order to hold our ground in this competitive environment. Today, when everything is available online, we need to create an even more exciting shopping experience. On the one hand, this includes an outstanding merchandising strategy or the optimal combination of the advantages of offline and online. One example is our Click & Collect department, where the customer can order online and try on the ordered items in our store. Here, we can also offer our customers a supplementary pre-selection. On the other hand, we perceive our sales assistants as hosts who should not focus on quick revenue, but on the sustainable management of customer relations. To this end, we rely heavily on the training of our employees and always strive to make the training process more attractive. At Engelhorn, we have several levels of training, from retail salesperson to Bachelor Professional of Trade and Commerce, as well as a trainee programme in co-operation with the University of Applied Sciences in Retail Management in Worms. In addition, we offer training modules which were developed in collaboration with the company’s management. Module 1 awards the employees - depending on their training level - signatory powers for certain areas and also expands their respective areas of responsibility. With Module 2, we go one step further. We, for example, entrust a trainee with certain aspects of the purchasing process. We want autonomous employees, but we also remind them of their duties. In addition, our final exams take place in front of a committee formed by the store management and executive managers. This approach allows us to raise the sales assistant profession to a higher level. We want to inspire people to ensure that they pursue their career with passion, but also with the necessary discipline. Every single member of our staff - no matter whether he/she is on a 450 Euro contract, an undergraduate assistant, or a full-time employee - receives some feedback once a year to discuss where he/she stands and which areas could still be improved. We do everything to make sure that our employees can be the excellent hosts we expect them to be.” Dirk Fritz, head of purchasing, sales, and design for menswear at Engelhorn Mannheim
SALESPERSON AS
Selling Point
ESTABLISH
Relationships
“First all we must distinguish what the term ‘salesperson’ actually means. If it describes people who don’t welcome a customer and answer the question where a certain product is with a shrug of the shoulders or an unfriendly ‘that way’, then the situation is truly hopeless. Such employees have simply not understood what it means to be a salesperson. One doesn’t merely sell a product - one also communicates the business philosophy. So let us turn our attention to the ‘real’ salespeople. In my mind, the best and ideal way to describe them is, in this case, by using the term ‘advisor’. Primarily, we should strive to liberate the salesperson from the pressure of having to sell something. A good salesperson is defined by the ability to establish a relationship with the customer, without the pressure of commissions. Maybe the customer will only decide to buy a product next time or the time after that? It is vital to afford a salesperson the opportunity to participate in the decision-making process. After all, a salesperson is a lot closer to the customer than a buyer. It may not always be possible, but the idea of conveying background knowledge to the salesperson is certainly an appealing one. When a customer senses that the salesperson believes in the product and has in-depth knowledge, it facilitates the purchase decision. Who would not love to buy a product from someone who actually has knowledge of the matter at hand?” Sascha Pietsch, blogger & author at horstson.de
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“We believe the art of selling is determined by the immense fascination experienced when making a wide variety of people happy by utilising special communication skills and displaying a passion for cool products. In this respect, we rely heavily on the training of our apprentices, as well as on the training of our employees and sales assistants. We promote our staff by investing heavily in our Bründl Academy with many workshops and seminars. The job is extremely challenging. Our tourist-oriented branches in locations such as Kaprun, Mayrhofen, Saalbach, and Ischgl have their busiest days in terms of customer frequency on Saturday and Sunday, which means our salespeople need to show enthusiasm and commitment on these days in order to convince the customers and provide them with magical moments. We prepare our staff well for these challenges and we don’t shy away from unusual measures, such as a flirting course. After all, the true selling skill is not much different than flirting in a bar. How do I approach a customer? How can I start a conversation? Instead of approaching the customer clumsily, one should rather mention the mountain tour he’s just completed in order to establish a connection beyond the product itself. We stand for a special culture and try to pass on our spirit through our sales staff. Everybody is offering similar products, both in stores and online. This makes the salesperson an even more important selling point.” Christoph Bründl, managing director at Bründl Group
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078 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR. STATEMENTS
Known VS. DESIRED
“Uncertain markets, rapid digitalisation, increasingly demanding customers, and the high expectations of our employees provide us with ever greater challenges, which we attempt to tackle proactively. If we assume that ‘total availability’ and the ongoing flooding of offers on all channels within the stationary retail industry will lead to the salesperson becoming even more important, it means that we need to push strategic personnel development to the top of our list of priorities. Loyalty, motivation, flexible workplace design, feedback, and, especially, the meaningfulness of tasks suddenly gain a completely new significance. Young sales talents increasingly seek to identify the societal benefits of their work, which means that we need to create appropriate projects and links, which, in turn, lead to identification with the company itself. We all agree that the ‘service to the customer’ needs to be intensified. We always speak about ‘360 degree sales experiences’, ‘exceeding customer expectations’, an optimised ‘host role’, the desired mix of customer appreciation, sincere attention, professional advice, and real enthusiasm of a salesperson for fashion. The demands grow constantly. Only the performance record of our employees triggers desire in our customers, who base 90% of the purchase decisions on emotions. If we want to offer our customers identity, security, and stimulation, we need to fine-tune every aspect of our business. This also means converting marketing budgets into personnel budgets. For quite some time, topics such as travel, food, health, and education have gained importance compared to the classic status fields such as clothing, household goods, and transportation. Nevertheless, we perceive the development of the ‘salesperson’ in a positive light. The personal and direct contact with the customer is becoming more and more ‘sexy’ in times of digitalisation.” Claudia Kalocsai, executive at 5 STARS Gmbh (among others Stenz, Heaven, and Chalet in Kempten)
116 style in progress
MORE
Leeway
“An increasingly obvious task for us is to counteract the frustration among our employees. Our sales assistants are confronted with Internet prices on a daily basis, even when they are talking to customers directly. Many customers allow our staff to advise them, try on various items, and compare different models. Then they take a photo of the article name and promise to - possibly - return later. Many customers take advantage of our personal and individual advice, but fail to show appreciation or don’t reward our efforts. That’s just one of the issues we are dealing with here. In terms of manpower planning, it is important to show greater flexibility in order to keep our employees content in the long term. Who wouldn’t want to spend a Saturday or a long weekend with the family? Another important issue we are working on is fair payment. A payment model based on classic commissions affects the service quality, the appearance of the sales floor, and the team spirit in a negative manner. Even standardised team bonuses are not the correct approach. We are currently working on a fair bonus system that includes all employees and also rewards our top salespeople adequately. Although more and more is demanded of employees today, the promotion prospects are less appealing than they were 20 years ago. Even though the complexity of a multi-channel strategy within the company and the smart phone as a competitor pose ever greater challenges, Flori Schuster always says: ‘I want every single sales assistant in our employ to be an excellent host.’ We live - and really enjoy - this motto during all our periodic breakfast events for our regular customers.” Rainer Angstl, managing director at Sporthaus Schuster Munich
Know-How TRANSFER
“The negative image of salespeople often results from a lack of product knowledge. If I, as an enthusiastic and well-informed potential customer, encounter a car salesman who is unable to supply me with more in-depth information on an exclusive vehicle, incapable of exciting me for the brand, and unable to explain the extras of the new car in comparison to my current model, then I feel like I am not being taken seriously. The same rings true for our industry. A salesperson, who hasn’t the foggiest idea about materials and is unwilling to supply customers with a minimum of product information, is the main cause for the poor image of this particular profession. Generally speaking, a lot of important information often gets lost at buyer level, but it is vital that this information is passed on to the sales staff. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why online retailers were able to expand so rapidly. After all, the consumer doesn’t really care whether he is advised neutrally on the Internet or ill-advised by so-called ‘specialised retailers’. I attach great importance to ensuring that our sales representatives have an in-depth knowledge of every single product. When we stage training sessions for the sales staff, we experience regularly that this background knowledge has not been transferred properly. Many salespeople see the product in a completely different context after such training events. This does not only allow the staff to explain to the customers how complex the manufacturing process of a product is and how it differs from conventional mass products, but ultimately also conveys why a product is more expensive than others.” Christoph Siegel, managing director at Candice Cooper
HONESTY AND
080 WHAT'S THE STORY
Authenticity
HUMAN FACTOR. STATEMENTS
“The image of the sales assistant needs to improve. This can be accomplished by better training and increased motivation. In this context, I would like to recommend the book titled “Power Briefing for the Fashion Trade” (German original title: “Power Briefing für den Modehandel”) by Andrea Grudda and Hans-Jürgen Hartauer. In this book, the two authors explain an innovative way to train, motivate, and lead employees - or entire teams - that takes no longer than three minutes per day. The technique also enhances team spirit as a whole. As an owner-managed store, we attach great importance to personal and honest advice. Selling isn’t everything, especially when it’s not done in a credible manner. Customers would notice that immediately. In principle, I’d like to see more honesty and authenticity. Optimised training for sales assistants would create more motivation and lead to an increased identification with the store. A well-integrated employee has, of course, a higher chance of being handed responsibility, which subsequently pays off in financial terms. In my opinion, the opening hours in the retail industry are acceptable. I don’t believe that more flexible opening hours would necessarily make the job itself more attractive. Better childcare is certainly a good argument, but only larger houses can implement that internally. Unfortunately, such an effort is simply not feasible for owner-managed boutiques and stores.” Gabriela “Ela” Holscher-Di Marco, ELA selected Düsseldorf
Touch PEOPLE COMMITMENT THROUGH
Freedom
“Every company strives to employ the best staff. And each employee brings a personality, constraints, strengths, and weaknesses to the table. In my opinion, there are two basic pillars of successful personnel development. Firstly, employees have to embody the corporate values credibly. If this is not the case, it is highly unlikely that the collective can truly benefit from the potential of the individual. This only works if the company is fully aware of its own values and inherent character. Only those who can identify with the corporate values can perform at their best. Secondly, we have arrived at a point where individuality is developed to such an extent that the personality is no longer defined by the workplace alone. The aim should not be to tie employees to the company as closely as possible that it leaves no room for any other considerations. It is much easier to secure commitment by granting a certain amount of freedom, both in the form of co-determination and individual framework conditions. This is the most obvious for parents like me, who don’t want to be forced to choose between family and career. Once concern for the environment of the individual has created commitment, the basis for innovations has been established. The most obvious approach is normally the correct one. If you still believe that the core characteristics of employees should be unconditional flexibility, willingness to work the longest hours, and tolerance for the lowest wages, you will not have the best staff in the future.” Andreas Murkudis, owner of AM and AM+ Berlin
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“The question we ask ourselves is how high is the identification and personal responsibility of employees in respect of their jobs? Which sense of purpose do they feel when they face the daily challenges on the sales floors? How do the employees perceive the managers and their support in terms of autonomy? Working on the sales floor should not merely be a temporary career solution because you can’t find anything else to do. It is as much a craft as any other profession and therefore deserves to be approached with professionalism. In a team effort, our fashion house in Kaprun invented the Moreau consulting wheel. This wheel covers all aspects: from being a welcoming host to making small talk, from triggering desires to creating solutions, and the vital additional recommendation as part of saying farewell to the customer. Every single aspect requires highest quality and precision in implementation. In time, the process needs to become a game, and a matter of course, in order to inspire customers with a sense of ease and fun. The customers need to be enchanted by the world of fashion. Reducing the price is simple, but it can be really hard work to touch people’s hearts. There are always companies with cheaper offers, but we humans are unique and cannot be copied. We need to regain a passion for serving people and to be there for them. Especially in terms of tourism, we have the unique opportunity to serve relaxed people who want to treat themselves to something good and reward themselves while on vacation. Even the most beautiful store - be it offline or online - is only brought to life by individuals. In line with the cause/effect principle, happy and fulfilled people deliver results, i.e. revenue. We should be proud of this human creativity potential and promote it consciously every day.” Andreas Moreau, managing director at Fashion & Sports Moreau Kaprun
UNDERWEAR SOCKS SHIRTS office@maratexfashion.li
082 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
116 style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY 083
Procurement
HUMAN FACTOR
P O W E R
Money equals power? No wonder that buyers feel the need to create a new self-image. Those who base all their actions on one pillar, will, in the end, feel and look like a statue from an era long gone. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
They swoop in like a flock of geese: the purchasing squadrons of the retail chains. The one in the most outrageous suit leads the way, flanked on both sides - strictly according to internal hierarchies - by the others. See? The comparison with the flock of geese holds up perfectly. There are business administrators, sales floor managers, and even a few Excel heroes. They head straight for one of those extravagantly long conference tables in the showroom. If you sit at one of those tables in a different capacity, you automatically start wondering why anyone would ever need such huge tables. Hang on. Here come the usual gestures before it comes to the crunch. Both sides slap backs, shake hands energetically, and smile at each other winningly. All this although everybody knows that the goose is about to be ripped apart. Now the only remaining question is which side will come off worse this time. It is an open secret that fashion itself is, if at all, the last topic on the agenda of the people gathered around that oversized conference table. The real issues are conditions, deadlines, quotas, stock turnover rates, sales, and write-offs. Marc Kofler, a co-owner of Adventure Fashion GmbH, says: “I am convinced that many a buyer is inwardly
afraid - and that is completely understandable. Given the way many conglomerates define the job today, it is only logical that buyers secretly wonder how long they will still be needed. What is their future job description? After all, you really don’t need to be a buyer to manage depots and negotiate concession deals. Others can do that more efficiently.” Reinhard Haas, the managing director at Aco Austria, agrees: “The buyer used to be a trend scout. Today, finding new collections or identifying new trends is merely a small part of what is expected. Co-operations, deals, and exchange conditions need to be negotiated too. The consequence is that we, as agencies, are also in much closer contact with the buyers than we used to be.” Is this close contact maintained to exchange views on fashion and trends? No it isn’t. The main focus is on lists and problem solving. “Fashion conglomerates are like food retailers. The shelves are permanently assigned. Now it’s just a matter of deciding how they should be stocked”, Marc Kofler argues. Goose Stepping in Single File
When the number crunchers are in charge, emotion falls by the wayside. “The history-oriented procurement practiced by corporations on the basis of their
sales lists is totally inadequate for the high fashion segment”, says Clemens Sagmeister, who manages the six branches of his family business in Western Austria. “Lists are useful when I am buying something like white shirts”, adds Michael Arabiano, the managing director of Graenicher in Lucerne and Sursee. “But a list is no use when I need to purchase floral shirts. I have to rely on my gut feeling. If creativity in the purchasing process loses out to lists, then we’ll ultimately end up with nothing but basics in the store - and that is dangerous, to say the least. I need that crazy orange jacket in my shop window to ensure that Graenicher remains on the map. If I only put the dark blue coats that I sell every day in that window, nobody would talk about the store anymore. But that orange one is guaranteed to be the talk of the town.” Since that orange coat certainly isn’t on any of the aforementioned lists, it remains the terrain of the individualists among the buyers. Marc Kofler: “The first question I have to ask myself as a retailer is whether the producer believes in my abilities as a wholesaler. Does he give me backing to make me stronger?” Clemens Sagmeister adds: “Our product range has undergone quite a significant transformation
process. We parted company with brands that don’t see their future in wholesale, even though they contributed significantly to our revenues. The result encouraged us that this was the right course of action. We didn’t feel any effect at all. When deciding how to re-allocate our budgets, the personal relationship has proven to be more important than ever. I see the future in brands that are willing to meet at eye level and in relationships in which nobody is trying to overpower the other. I believe it is essential that there is a balance of power between retailers and suppliers. An all too powerful retailer would, in turn, mean that the supplier is impotent. That’s not what we want either.” Who’s Gabbling?
How can you measure the success of a buyer? The decisive factor is no longer which items arrive at the retailers, but how the goods leave the retailers. This is, on the one hand, determined by the consumers, but also by the extent of items that are “returned to sender”. Reinhard Haas: “As suppliers, we are informed and involved throughout the year. After all, we don’t ask for sales lists for fun, but because it is essential to find solutions as early as possible.” Marc Kofler criticises: “I have style in progress 116
084 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
Clemens Sagmeister, Sagmeister Der Mann:
“In fact, the network is every buyer’s greatest asset.”
Michael Arabiano, Graenicher: “Buyers
need more time for strategy and sourcing.”
the impression that procurement has become a double-bottomed net for many. What was ordered doesn’t necessarily have to be sold to the consumers. The responsibility for goods that aren’t sold is often handed back to the supplier. The industry is not completely blameless in that respect. By establishing their own retail operations and outlets they sent a clear message to their retail customers. They made clear that they are capable of marketing their products themselves. It can’t come as a surprise to them that retailers return products and instruct the brands to sell them in their own outlet.” 116 style in progress
A certain suspicion lingers. The buyers who promote the commission business are hacking away the branch they themselves are perched on. The ones that are willing and able to see the bigger picture are the ones who make themselves indispensable. “It has become much more difficult to find special items, mainly because the suppliers shy away from risks, which is totally understandable too. However, the sales department thrives on untold stories and we are even more challenged in terms of fashion. There is no clear trend, so it is down to the buyers to find - and communicate - their topics”, says Michael Arabiano. To ensure a successful transfer of information, the entrepreneur has decided to demand that “the employee responsible for sales of a particular brand is present at every order meeting.” He even takes this principle one step further. The buyers at Graenicher are required to spend at least forty percent of their time on the sales floor. “That is essential.” Arabiano also plans to delegate repeat orders to the sales staff by implementing a new system. “Every single employee will be allowed to place orders directly, without asking for the permission of the purchasing department or me. We hope that this will afford the buyers more time to focus on strategy and sourcing.” By the way, the new system is also expected to increase the satisfaction and sense of responsibility among the employees. “Naturally, I will feel a higher sense of responsibility for something that I ordered myself.”
is not defined by creativity or numerical reasoning alone. In fact, the network is the greatest asset. How good are the buyer’s personal relationships with the major manufacturers and agencies? How influential is the network? That plays such an important role.” “It is paramount for us agencies to maintain our relationships
Power is Earned Marc Kofler, Adventure Fashion GmbH: “For
many, procurement has become a double-bottomed net.”
Alpha Animal
“It’s no big surprise that outsiders perceive the buying department as very glamorous”, Clemens Sagmeister says. “One travels a lot, experiences the best brands, and visits the coolest cities. International buyers have countless followers on social media platforms and celebrate this lifestyle. However, it soon becomes clear that it’s not all glamorous once you’re actually on the job. One soon realises that one has to be - to a large extent - a numbers person to be successful. Nevertheless, I am convinced that a good buyer
constant contact is an honest exchange. You need to take the opinions of the buyers seriously and ensure that their feedback reaches the suppliers. A genuine interest in and an openness for the problems of procurement are so important. This approach works well, as long as the other side perceives its role in a similar way.” Openness is needed on both sides of the table: “With an exchange regarding the ongoing sales figures, we want to ensure that our ideas contribute to a successful problem-solving process and yield optimisation”, says Reinhard Haas. “Openness is rewarded. Many have understood this now and no longer try to keep the revenue they generate with our products secret. This mutual appreciation makes sure that we can achieve our common goals a lot quicker.”
Reinhard Haas, ACO Austria: “Openness is
rewarded.”
with retailers. You can’t do that via the phone. You have to be willing to hit the road and experience the situation first hand to see where the problems lie”, Marc Kofler argues. “I think the decisive factor in this
A powerful retailer has influence. A thumbs up - or thumbs down - from an influential buyer can change everything, especially for newcomers. “It is, of course, a sign for others in the industry when an established retailer decides to place an order at a new label. We are quite aware of that”, says Clemens Sagmeister. “If I recommend a label to my colleagues at Masculin Modekreis, it is, without doubt, an important indicator regarding the economic development of the label. But that doesn’t mean that I am exploiting my influential position. On the contrary, I am looking forward to growing together.” His colleague, Michael Arabiano, adds: “I feel uncomfortable using the term power in the context of purchasing. If someone is powerful, it automatically means that someone else loses out. I don’t want to be powerful. My approach is completely different. I want my stores to be so successful that the brands themselves say that they want to be listed at Graenicher when thinking about expanding into the German-speaking part of Switzerland. That’s what drives me.”
086 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
HUNTERS
COLLECTORS?
Should sales assistants be rewarded with a percentage of the revenue they generate? The issue of sales commissions is divisive. style in progress pits two contrasting opinions against each other. What some retailers see as a self-evident and sensible measure to reward excellent performances, others perceive as a real “no go”. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees
CUSTOMERS ARE THE BEST MOTIVATION
Max Schoenberg manages six shoe and fashion stores called Fifty-6 in Saarbrücken together with Romy Schoenberg, his wife, and Franz Tinnacher. They believe that excellent service is vital in the retail business, which is why they expect just that from their 50 sales assistants. www.fifty-6.eu
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“Those who work on a commission basis primarily do it for the money. It is paramount that the customers don’t notice that. One can quickly lose sight of the actual job at hand. I myself spent ten years working on commission basis. In the 1970s and 1980s, I earned 50 Pfennig per served pot of coffee. Commissions do make sense in the catering industry, because fast service makes the guests happy. In a fashion store, it is equally important to ensure that the customer feels comfortable. However, the customer can’t feel comfortable when the sales assistant insists on pants that are two sizes too small, perhaps because confessing that size 38 fits would feel a bit awkward. This can quickly lead to the customer being sold the wrong expensive product, rather than the possibly cheaper right product. We rely to between 80 and 90 percent on regular customers who return to our store because we inspired them and gave them honest advice. This means a salesperson has to be capable of listening to what the customers really want, which is, by the way, not always the same as what they say they want. A good sales assistant needs to think ahead, which is a hurdle that 90 percent of all our applicants fail to take. The really good advisors are usually in the second or third phase of their lives. They are mostly lateral entrants who have already gained a good deal of life experience. This can, for instance, be a mother whose children have left the household, or even a long-standing customer who feels restless at home. The job is a real challenge. A service provider must, by definition, serve and provide. Serving is nothing negative, because you get something back in return. So how do we reward excellent employees? We give them more freedom and responsibility. If an apprentice is better than I am at something and is capable of showing that: wonderful. It is, however, also rewarding when the team works together well. After all, we spend one third of our day at our jobs and therefore, in our case, in the store. Selling fashion isn’t about selling something the customers need, but what they want. That’s a great challenge for every salesperson! We are quick to forget that humans are emotional beings. A lot of effort has to be made voluntarily; I can’t trigger that in my capacity as a boss. I believe that recognition is the best motivation. If you work for us, you are told that you are the best salesperson in the world on a daily basis. They don’t hear that from me, but from our customers, some of whom even take the time to thank the entire team with a handshake. I am certain that such a reaction cannot be achieved with sales commissions.”
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+
INDIVIDUAL PERFORMANCES DESERVE REWARDS
“Fundamentally, I am of the opinion that employees who perform better should earn more and thus participate in the company’s success. The question is how such a system can be implemented fairly. Currently, our system results in a wide scope of additional earnings up to a three-fold monthly bonus of between 100 and 700 Euros. That’s a certain injustice. While a sales assistant in the ski and shoe department is very close to the customers and generates higher average revenues and commissions, the sales assistants in the accessories department generate significantly lower revenues. In the latter department, customers often proceed directly to the checkout, thereby not affording the sales assistants the opportunity to write their respective number on the label. In addition, the employees in the accessories department need to invest more time in arranging and restocking goods. However, attempts to reward mere presence would be nothing more than a wage increase for all without rewarding individual performances. This is why I don’t really see team bonuses as an option either, mainly because inferior sales assistants could rest on the laurels of more committed colleagues. The big disadvantage of a system based on an individual bonus is the ‘revenue vulture’ phenomenon. If a customer decides to purchase a Canada Goose jacket for 800 Euros without seeking the advice of a sales assistant, it doesn’t leave a good impression if the latter hastily writes his number on the label before it’s too late, and possibly even took the jacket off the rack while still engaged in a discussion with a completely different prospective buyer. We are constantly fine-tuning our system with a view to finding a truly fair solution, but we haven’t found a perfect model yet. Maybe there is no perfect model. Despite all the difficulties associated with the issue, I am still of the opinion that individual performances should be rewarded. Selling is an art which does not only require good advice and the skill to serve three customers at the same time, but also the ability to close a sale and ensure that the customer in question leaves our store feeling satisfied. Only then has Schuster truly fulfilled its role as a host.” 116 style in progress
Rainer Angstl is the managing director of Sporthaus Schuster in Munich. The retailer, which has been in operation for no less than 102 years, is an undisputed champion on Munich’s Marienplatz. The Schuster Group also includes Sport Münzinger, a football/ style concept in the City Hall on Marienplatz. www.sport-schuster.de
Photo by Irene Schaur
090 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
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WHAT'S THE STORY 091 HUMAN FACTOR
DO YOU REALLY WANT TO MOVE THERE?!? Stephanskirchen, Kitzingen, and Metzingen aren’t exactly famous hotspots. Fashion brands aren’t always headquartered in the urban metropolises we dream about visiting. This is, naturally, not particularly advantageous to applicants. What do companies do to remain attractive employers? What do they need to offer their employees and applicants? Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Companies. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
It’s self-promotion at its best. Marc O’Polo’s image film shows emotional images of young people on a jetty overlooking the mountains, happy scenes of people who are at one with nature, and a team enjoying both sport and work. “We work where others spend their vacation” is the motto of the company, which is headquartered in the tranquil city of Stephanskirchen near Rosenheim. “Many applicants have never heard about the city we’re in. That’s what we wanted to change”, says Petra Tramp, the human resources director at Marc O’Polo. “We have noticed that it is no longer easy to fill job vacancies swiftly.” War for Talents
“It has become much more difficult to find the right employees”, says Monika Pleschinger, a human resources specialist. Generally speaking, the competition among companies for the best young talents has become
tougher. Open markets and global networks have turned long-standing conditions upside down and highly qualified employees have become a scarce resource. As an independent human resources manager, Monika Pleschinger is tasked by various companies to find the best job candidates and to further develop existing staff. The “War for Talent” has become a proverbial phrase, especially in terms of technical professions. Regional companies, which initially only needed to compete with each other, now have to face international competition. A company’s success is therefore more important than ever. “I have also noticed that the expectations of employees and employers are diverging increasingly”, the Austrian businesswoman states. “The companies lament a lack of quality employees, while the applicants lament a lack of interesting job opportunities.” This may sound paradoxical at first glance, style in progress 116
092 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
Palle Stenberg, CEO Nudie Jeans: “We spend a lot of
time ensuring that everyone is on the same page. It does take quite a lot of time and can therefore be a disadvantage in terms of international competition.”
but there are many reasons for this development. The recent low birth rates in the industrialised countries are not the only cause. “Talents are often not identified and promoted soon enough”, Monika Pleschinger claims. “Many parents tell their children to focus on their A-levels first and that they have all options to choose from afterwards. However, not everyone is a good student and it is clear that this approach leads to artisan talents being wasted.”
shortage of applicants due to his company’s remote location. Recreational areas, affordable residential options, an intact village structure, and easy access to cities such as Munich and Salzburg are factors that appeal to the staff of Meindl Fashion. “We can offer everything, but not in excess. Who needs everything in excess anyway”, Markus Meindl argues. “Most of our employees are from the surrounding area. Many of them accept a one hour commute in order to work for us. One reason is that our brand is sexy. Another reason is that we employ individuals. Our employees are perceived as partners with whom we spend every day on respectful terms and in a family atmosphere.” Packages
In the context of a general shortage of skilled workers, remote locations are, however, becoming a significant disadvantage. This also - and especially - rings true in terms of highly specialised talents, according to Monika Pleschinger. “To compensate for this disadvantage, many companies offer their employees and applicants special packages consisting of higher wages, more
Dinosaurs
Markus Meindl is eager to counteract this trend in his company, Meindl Fashion. He manages a fully integrated production plant for authentic, luxurious leather clothing with 120 employees in Kirchanschöring, a Bavarian village near the Austrian border with 2,000 inhabitants. “We are a real dinosaur; we are fully integrated and the last of our kind”, Markus Meindl explains. “We have always believed in our location and refrained from outsourcing to third countries. In this context, it is fundamental that we train our staff in-house. This applies to production specialists and all managers alike. Those who decide to commit to our company are afforded an opportunity to grow with us.” Markus Meindl currently has no reason to complain about a 116 style in progress
Marco Götz, managing director Drykorn: “We need to work
hard to retain our employees and find new talent. We perceive it as an exciting challenge. Unfortunately, the individual demands of applicants and their willingness to perform don’t match in an increasing number of cases.”
affordable company apartments, and - above all - a corporate culture that encourages friendship and communal activities.”, Pleschinger explains. “Employers that lack interest and commitment in this respect will find it increasingly difficult to remain attractive to applicants in the future.” Marco Götz founded his company, Drykorn, in Kitzingen near Würzburg. 17 years later, the company has 140 local employees, most of whom have been part of the business for a very long time. “Today, one needs to show a certain level of commitment, also in terms of work environment”, Marco Götz says. Among other measures, he established co-operations with other local companies to create an international school and to upgrade sport facilities and venues. Drykorn employees are afforded the opportunity to work out in the local fitness studio free of charge once a week. The package also includes a health check and a goody bag containing a hearty breakfast. The so-called Veggie Day, which is staged every two weeks and supplies a healthy meal prepared by an excellent chef, is an additional extra. Participation is mandatory to promote healthy eating and a sense of community. “Our company is characterised by a very communicative, friendly tone and relatively flat hierarchies. Many of our employees have developed their talents together with our company”, Marco Götz explains. In terms of applicants, he benefits from Drykorn’s cool brand image. “Nevertheless, it has become more difficult to find well-trained candidates for product development and e-commerce. Such skilled workers usually want to be in an urban environment.” Creative individuals also tend to prefer the inspiration of global metropolises. “In fairness, the creative talents within our company travel a lot, either to London, Paris, Tokyo, or New York”, Marco Götz points out. “They then process their impressions in the tranquillity of our office.” Laptop Under Palm Trees?
The fact that the demands of applicants have changed is an even greater challenge for companies.
Petra Tramp, HR director Marc O’Polo: “We strive
to be perceived as an attractive company by our applicants in order to find suitable specialists and retain talent in the long term.”
Many fresh university graduates dream confidently about smart phones and company cars. Others relish the idea of enjoying the freedom of working all over the world like the oft-cited digital nomads. This development is based on a far-reaching social change in values. While earlier generations strived primarily for security, the current generation is more focused on freedom and self-development. This is also a consequence of the fact that the boundaries between work and leisure are becoming increasingly blurred. One of the new buzzwords is “workation”; another is the so-called home office. “This trend will continue to grow even stronger”, Olivia Pflugfelder-Jünger suggests. Even though she chose Berlin as her base, she still spent nine years contributing to various Drykorn projects on a freelance basis. Today, she is part of a new textile project launched by Red Bull in Salzburg. Pflugfelder-Jünger visits Salzburg for approximately three working days every two weeks and also travels to larger cities for sourcing, trade shows, and store checks. “Employees who make demands need to prove that their work offers added value for the company first”, she explains. “In principle, it makes sense to gain in-depth knowledge about the DNA of a
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094 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
company and to spend a significant amount of time working with the team on location.” At the same time, preconditions for enjoying the freedom of working from various places include excellent organisational skills and guaranteed availability. Companies aren’t always happy with home office arrangements, especially as they raise questions in terms of productivity. “Trust and clearly defined arrangements are paramount”, Pflugfelder-Jünger acknowledges. “However, I do believe that work in the office and in freely chosen locations will continue to blend into each other. Why not afford a creative team the opportunity to go on a trip together and work from the destination of choice? Such opportunities motivate employees and that ultimately also benefits the employer.”
be made and implemented faster. “The market won’t wait for us”, Stenberg argues. “We will, however, make sure that we don’t lose our souls.” Welcoming Culture
Markus Meindl, managing director Meindl Fashion:
“We don’t offer our employees a working environment that is based on communal yoga sessions, but on an honest partnership.”
Role Model Sweden
More and more employees dream of a world trip with an option to return to their job after a year. An increasing number of fathers would like to spend more time with their children. Palle Stenberg, the CEO of Swedish brand Nudie Jeans, believes that these wishes are perfectly understandable. “The number of fathers who would like to take
Olivia Pflugfelder-Jünger, freelance creative advisor for Red Bull: “There is
much more willingness to travel these days, which is accompanied by a work/travel trend. This can be so much more motivating than the usual nine-to-five in the office.”
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advantage of their 15 months of parental time is on the rise”, he reveals. “We pay every employee 80 Euros per month for childcare, while the remainder is covered by taxes. We strive to treat our staff fairly. For me, that is an integral element of Swedish culture.” It is often claimed that the general working atmosphere in Swedish companies is more relaxed than elsewhere. On the other hand, it has to be said that the six-hour working day celebrated by the media is anything but sustainable, even in Sweden. “There may be areas where such a model makes sense, but not in our case”, Palle Stenberg says. “As a global brand, we need to communicate with our offices all around the globe. Therefore, it is important to uphold core working hours from 8am to 5pm.” The consensus-oriented work approach of Sweden is, however, reality. “We spend a lot of time ensuring that everyone is on the same page”, Palle Stenberg confirms. “It does take quite a lot of time and can therefore be a disadvantage in terms of international competition.” To date, Nudie is defined by flat hierarchies, but the brand is about to experience its next growth boost. Palle Stenberg is eager to establish an additional hierarchical level in the medium term. The aim is to ensure that decisions that affect all global offices can
Petra Tramp, in her capacity as a human resources manager, has internalised that companies must offer their employees more than ever before. “Applicants applying for one of our job openings aren’t the only factor that needs to be taken into consideration. It is equally important that we, as future employers, show them that we have something to offer too. This attitude and a welcoming culture are vital”, she argues. The Marc O’Polo management embodies this approach and doesn’t shy away from experimenting. The brand’s recruitment strategy includes a sport and health programme, holiday care for children, a car-sharing platform for the 150 employees who predominantly commute from Munich, and individual home office arrangements for appropriate areas. In addition, the brand is currently testing open space offices in Munich. It is in the process of building a fourth building for the approximately 700 employees in Stephanskirchen. The premises
Monika Pleschinger, human resources manager:
“Unfortunately, treating applicants with esteem is not always self-evident. This is proven by the fact that many applicants don’t even receive a letter of rejection.”
will offer desk sharing solutions, meeting points, and retreat areas, all in the spirit of modern working environments. “If we take advantage of the possibility to work from everywhere, we also need less space”, Petra Tramp explains. An important prerequisite for this is a realignment of management policies; the focus needs to shift from presence to results. Advancement opportunities are, naturally, another way to increase staff loyalty. “For the last one and a half years, we have attached significant importance to the topic of leadership”, Petra Tramp explains. “It’s all about developing visions together, but also about placing trust in your employees and promoting talents in a more targeted manner. Employee satisfaction is always at the forefront, which ultimately leads to more sustainable success for the company.” Glimpse of the Future
The immigration situation in Austria and Germany will also affect the labour market over the coming years. On the one hand, it offers an opportunity for economic uplift in the medium to long term, mainly because it could counteract the demographic development. On the other hand, there is a risk of increased employment at lowest wage levels. “The situation is still too new to assess it properly”, Monika Pleschinger says. “It is, however, a fact that companies will need to be more flexible in terms of adjusting to their employees’ needs. In this context, care for the elderly is becoming just as challenging as childcare. If you treat your staff with respect and esteem, you will get the same from your employees in return”, Pleschinger says with certainty. “The reward is staff that will vouch for their company wholeheartedly.”
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096 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
116 style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY 097 HUMAN FACTOR
WE WANT THE
BEST!
Product ranges are similar or even interchangeable. The most important selling point is the human factor, which is the employee on the sales floor. How do retailers find the most promising recruits and how are they prepared for the challenges of the profession? Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
Christoph Bründl has just returned from New York. At the World Business Forum, he heard a presentation by Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg that inspired him on a personal level and gave him new ideas for his business. “Zuckerberg reads a book every two weeks, which means he reads up to 30 books per year”, the managing director of 22 Intersport stores in Austria says. “I was very impressed by his curiosity, as well as his attitude to question everything and to acknowledge that one never stops learning.” Learning culture is a topic that is very close to Bründl’s heart: for himself, for the employees, for the executives, and - last but most certainly not least - for the apprentices on the sales floor. “Product ranges are similar everywhere. Our employees are therefore the most important asset we have”, he argues. “The customers want to buy from people, not from machines. That’s why we invest a lot of money in the education and training of our employees with passion and enthusiasm. That’s why we’re always looking for the best candidates and are not willing to compromise in this respect.”
High Standards - High Investment
Has it become more difficult to find the right candidates? “Definitely yes”, says Jörg Noh, the head of training at Engelhorn. “Overall, there are fewer school leavers with a higher percentage of graduates. The latter prefer university to vocational training. The result is that those who would be willing to consider an apprenticeship in the retail industry often have inferior grades and degrees.” The situation is made even more difficult by unattractive working hours. There aren’t many people who enjoy working longer in the evenings and on weekends, while others get to enjoy time off. “The sales assistant profession suffers from a poor image and a lack of appreciation”, says Christian Greiner, the head of purchasing, sales, and marketing at Ludwig Beck. “Customers will give the grumpiest taxi driver a tip, but they rarely even think about tipping a sales assistant after receiving excellent advice.” Moreover, limited career opportunities deter many potential applicants. The more renowned a company is, the less often positions as substitutes, depart-
ment heads, and buyers become available. “We don’t only need leaders; we also are in dire need of motivated top salespeople on the sales floor. This is where we do business”, Christian Greiner adds. Last September, 23 candidates started their training as retail salespeople and Bachelor Professional of Trade and Commerce at Ludwig Beck. However, the fashion house cannot rest on its laurels even though it is ranked among the best businesses in Munich and enjoys an excellent reputation as a training institution. Like all other major players that offer apprenticeships, it has become significantly more attractive for young talents. The first prerequisite is adequate self-representation. Only those with an up-to-date image are considered to be desirable employers. This includes lectures at school, factory tours, booths at education fairs, and communication via social media platforms. It is easier to approach today’s youth online than via classic job advertisements. In addition, school internships have become a commonplace way to find suitable apprentices. Engelhorn is an example for this new trend. “We offer no less than 150 style in progress 116
098 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
school internships per year”, says Jörg Noh. “The pupils work on the sales floor, which means a lot more work for each department. But it’s worth it; because two to three of them can be added to the approximately 25 trainees we take on every year.” Christoph Bründl, managing director of Bründl Group:
“Everyone can handle pricing and creating a shop aura. But building a corporate culture is daily work. The people involved form the core of the brand.” Realisation at Association Level
The stationary retail industry demands more than ever from its salespeople, not least due to the rise of e-commerce. “Customers are definitely more demanding than they used to be”, Christian Greiner explains. “They don’t visit us because they haven’t realised that e-commerce exists, but because they have made a conscious decision to come into the store. They don’t only expect honest advice, but also a real shopping experience.” Wilfried Malcher, the head of education and training at HDE (German Trade Association), knows that technical know-how is not enough anymore: “When a customer whips out a smart phone to compare prices, the sales assistant must be able to deal with the situation both casually and confidently while representing the objective of his employer. This ability cannot be learned in a crash course, but only in an excellent education and training programme.” At association level, the realisation that the core profession needs to undergo a renewal process has finally sunk in. “We have to adapt to the changes in the retail industry and are in the process of modernising the curricula and examination requirements for salespeople and retail merchants”, Wilfried Malcher explains. As of August 2017, new training regulations with revised content in terms of product and product range knowledge, marketing, customer service, merchandise management, and e-commerce will take effect. “Due to the increasing 116 style in progress
digitalisation, these requirements have become more technical. This needs to be reflected in the training programmes. However, we must formulate the training regulations in a more open manner, because we want to avoid that companies find themselves unable to offer apprenticeships because of the changes.” Additionally, the HDE has expanded its professional range by adding a concept for new training courses aimed at future e-commerce retailers and e-commerce business administrators. Forging Talents
To ensure that young talents are suitably prepared for the challenges they will face, many large retailers have expanded their in-house academies. Product knowledge and stylistics are the basics. Other skills have become more important over time. One example is etiquette, which is essential when meeting the customers at eye level in the premium segment. Another example is offering German lessons with a focus on spelling and punctuation, which is vital for communicating with regular customers via e-mail or WhatsApp. “Generally speaking, skills such as spelling and basic arithmetic have deteriorated”, Jörg Noh says. “This is, in part, owed to a shift of priorities in our school system. Today’s pupils have better presentation skills than they had in the past, because that particular aspect was promoted in the classroom.” Projects have, in general, become more important to trainees. “We set them unusual tasks during which they learn how to organise themselves”, Noh explains. These tasks can include organising the Christmas party for all apprentices and their mentors or the design of the booth at an education fair during the second year of training. “We Wilfried Malcher, head of training and education at HDE: “There is no
government-protected job description for salespeople. But it would mean something if a young person could say that he is a stateapproved sales assistant and has been tested by a neutral body.”
want them to show individual responsibility, especially as the retail industry often utilises parttime employees. The employees need to see the bigger picture in this respect.” Classic sales training remains just as vital. Where should sales assistants stand to ensure that the customers can identify them easily? How can sales assistants find out what the customers desire? A lot of this is down to technique. Other aspects of the job require emphatic skills. “Sales assistants contribute significantly to improved sales figures, which is why they are such an integral component of our overall concept”, Christian Greiner states. “It’s similar to the catering trade. I find it very interesting to see if Christian Greiner, board member at Ludwig Beck/Wormland:
“We can teach people the fashion know-how. It’s impossible to teach someone a service-oriented attitude. At most, one can raise the service level a little.” a waiter merely takes my order with a bored look or whether I am also offered a clever dessert option in the process.” The menu of a restaurant can be compared to a specific outfit in a stationary retail store. “It is a fact that the number of customers willing to visit a store has decreased”, Greiner adds. “This means it is even more important to increase the revenue generated with the remaining customers and via additional purchases. We need to see this as an opportunity. After all, many of the clients who still visit stores are willing to spend more.” Selling is More Complex Now
The art of selling has become more complex, thus also complicating the training of individuals. Engelhorn, for instance, focuses on the self-confidence of its apprentices with a workshop in a high-wire garden. Engelhorn and many other companies - are eager to ensure that their salespeople are not only service-oriented, but also self-confident. Bründl offers no less than 34 workshops for apprentices and
Jörg Noh, head of training at Engelhorn: “More than
ever, we need to ensure that we identify the right candidates for our sales floor. Certain issues can be offset with training, but more in-depth personality structures cannot be changed.” existing employees. The range of workshops includes a flirt course, acting lessons, sales training, and mediation training. “We want to offer our employees a workplace that allows them to develop. It is not only about earning a living, but also about to develop one’s own personality continuously”, Christoph Bründl says. “We also want to protect our employees; it is important to make them resistant to stress”, he adds. “Our stores are busiest at the weekends. Furthermore, there are twelve important days during which we have to excel regardless of which buttons an ill-tempered customer may press.” It is therefore no surprise that applicants from the catering industry are welcomed by retailers with open arms. They are not only accustomed to the working hours, but have also internalised the service idea, even when put under immense pressure. Jörg Noh strongly believes that one can ultimately only learn how to sell products on the job. This is why apprentices are, after a three-day introductory seminar, sent directly to the sales departments. After all, direct contact with customers is the only way to overcome inhibitions. “Despite all the training, a certain level of talent remains paramount. Selling is a gift that requires a passion for the profession”, Christian Greiner adds. Naturally, salespeople need to enjoy interacting with other people. “The knowledge advantage, which sales assistants used to enjoy, no longer exists”, Christoph Bründl says. “Today, other skills are in demand. Why does a modern customer decide to visit a store? It’s because the customer wants to escape anonymity and communicate actively. This requires a very different type of sales assistant.”
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100 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
“WE NEED PASSIONATE CONVICTION!” Lodenfrey is not only perceived as a department store in a class of its own in Munich. Its reputation as a high-quality educational institution precedes it far and wide. In this interview, Markus Höhn, a managing partner at Lodenfrey, discusses the search for sales talents, training, competition, and appreciation. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Lodenfrey
Mr Höhn, you are constantly on the lookout for the most talented young sales staff.
We need passionate conviction - that’s what characterises the real sales talents. We are constantly on the lookout and even ask our employees to keep their eyes open regarding candidates who could be of interest to us. This may be a book seller, a car salesman, or a hotel receptionist. We want individuals who have internalised the service concept. We don’t see it as a problem if we have to teach them about our products. On the other hand, it does pose a problem if there’s a lack of talent and passion. So the battle has intensified?
It absolutely has. Munich is very competitive in that respect. There are a lot of new competitors in terms of human resources, especially as all major brands now have their own stores. And how is the situation in terms of young talent…?
We pull out all the stops in that respect too. Today, the recruitment process basically happens via social networks, which is why we have strengthened our position on those platforms. However, a lot of candidates approach us directly, because they have heard that Lodenfrey is a great place to learn the trade. 116 style in progress
What makes the selection process difficult?
We have to weed out numerous candidates before we find the 15 to 20 that seem right, mainly because many applicants don’t meet our criteria regarding competence and maturity. In addition, jobs in the retail industry are right at the bottom of the desirability scale due to the required working hours. For some, the limited advancement opportunities are an issue. This also applies to us, because we aren’t a retail chain and less management positions become available. What do you focus your training on?
We focus, for example, on individual responsibility. Our trainees are afforded the opportunity to organise our special sales promotions in the second year of their training. Or they can conduct an analysis of our competitors and present their findings in a Powerpoint presentation. What is different in our store? What are the specific features of shops in Munich in comparison to other cities? We want to see how we are perceived by young people. That gives us new ideas and important impulses. How about additional training?
All our employees are trained constantly, whether it is in terms of goods or the correct way to address customers from different nations. In addition, excellent employees can apply to our in-house academy and thus qualify for better positions within our organisation. It is important to us to enhance and develop the sales profession. We also have to compete with companies operating in other industries; the fashion retail industry is not exactly at the top of the popularity list. Sales assistants are in high demand, but there still seems to be a distinct lack of appreciation.
That isn’t true, at least not in
our company. Our employees are attracted by the good wage and the overall package we offer. We maintain our corporate culture and the relationships between our employees are defined by respect and appreciation. The Champions League is always more fun than the relegation battle. Our employees are part of our success! They are aware of how important they are to us; they are the ones who have to score the goals. The excellent mood within the company is ultimately transferred from our staff to the customers.
Lodenfrey won the Rudolf-Egerer Award for Extraordinary Commitment to Training in 2005 and 2015. Every year, they offer 60% of their 15 to 20 trainees a job. www.lodenfrey.com
Markus Höhn, a managing partner at Lodenfrey, wants to ensure that his company and its employees continue to play in the Champions League of the fashion retail industry.
Matteo Zazzera/Biker evangelist, Iride Fixed Modena Founder/irdmodena.com
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“HOW ABOUT HOOKING UP?”
“What makes a career in fashion appealing to me is that you can express your creativity. For me it isn’t merely a job, but also a form of self-realisation. It is an interesting and varied job that allows you to meet many people. In addition, the fashion industry offers excellent promotion prospects, as long as you are willing to make an effort. I have been working in the fashion retail industry on a temporary basis for approximately three years. No, I can’t imagine a career in this particular field. One of the major problems is that everyone can work as a fashion salesperson these days, no matter whether one previously worked in a drug store or elsewhere. This means that the personnel are often not particularly qualified. And yes, that shows during a sales talk. Furthermore, the fashion retail industry - in contrast to other jobs within the trade - offers little to almost no opportunities for advancement. That’s exactly what is important to me, because I want to develop as an individual. In addition, the fashion retailers unfortunately don’t pay very well. I am eager to work with people. I am an open and sociable person and would like that to be ‘wanted’ in my chosen profession. Career opportunities and prospects are crucial. In addition, I would relish an opportunity to express my creativity in some shape or form.” Fabio Pace, 20 years old, student, Düsseldorf
Is working in the fashion retail industry considered sexy? Working in the fashion industry as such certainly is. But does that also ring true for working on the sales floor? No, it certainly doesn’t. Many aspiring trainees dream of a career in this colourful, creative, and diverse world of fashion. Nevertheless, the fashion retail industry is facing recruitment problems. style in progress asked junior employees en route to work or university whether they can imagine a career in retail and which factors they consider important for their future. Text: Ina Köhler. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@ Caroline Seidler
“Actually, I can imagine it. What I like about the profession is the payment compared to the wage you receive as a tailor for women’s clothing. I don’t need to earn a huge amount of money, but I do want to earn enough to go on vacation every now and then. I think working in retail is a satisfying job, because you can advise people and show them what suits them. I would be pleased to help people find the right items and give them a good feeling about themselves in the process. I can guide customers, provide them with information, and introduce them to new things like, for instance, sustainable fashion. I want my job to be fulfilling and I would like my talents to be recognised. One of the negative aspects of working in retail could be that I have no means of expressing my creativity, except while, for instance, decorating shop windows or sales floors. I don’t see much craftsmanship in those tasks.” Felicia Brecht, 19 years old, tailor trainee, Frankfurt
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“I could imagine working occasionally as a shop assistant on a part-time basis. Let’s say during my studies, for example. However, I can’t really see it as a career I could pursue for the next 20 years. I’m not the type who enjoys standing at a checkout or sorting clothing items all day. Such a job doesn’t fit into my life plan right now. That particular career probably also doesn’t offer many opportunities for advancement, except, possibly, as a branch manager. I want to enjoy my future job and I want it to be a career that I can pursue for the “I’ve looked at several courses in the field of fashion, but I rest of my life. At the same time, I want to earn a haven’t made a decision yet. Naturally, I want to choose a degree wage that allows me to be independent and programme that allows me to take up a profession within this industry. look after myself.” Personally, I can see myself working in fashion retail, because that’s where Jil Zamel, 18 years old, high school fashion is distributed among the people. The fashion retailers decide which clothes graduate, Frankfurt are made available to the consumers on a larger scale. The buyers of large fashion retailers decide which items are added to their product ranges and the people can then choose from those product ranges. Fashion companies need welltrained employees who know and identify trends to ensure that they stock the right fashion items to appeal to the masses. I am fascinated by this feel for trends and, accordingly, I am fascinated by the idea of pursuing a career in this field. No company can survive in the tough fashion industry without such employees. In turn, the salespeople market the companies’ products by offering advice to customers and presenting the items to the clientele. This ensures that the customers receive personal advice in terms of which clothing suits their respective personalities. The fashion industry is subject to constant change. This fact makes it so interesting for many - and for me personally. Fashion is a way of expressing yourself and your attitude towards life, as it was, for instance, during the era of the hippies a few decades ago. The hippies changed the way people think by expressing their attitude towards life via fashion. Furthermore, choosing the right clothes for the right occasion can affect one’s future. A job interview is but one example for that. The right choice of clothes is very important for the first impression. People are judged by their clothing - and other factors before the first word has been spoken. However, this is not a phenomenon that only occurs during such official meetings, but also in everyday situations, such as at school. There is a reason why clothing is becoming an increasingly important factor in terms of expressing social status. That’s why an increasing emphasis is placed on branded products, as they demonstrate such a social status. Today, clothing is often the status symbol that a certain car used to be. I’m impressed by the effect fashion has. That’s why I, personally, would like to go in that direction, first during my studies and then, subsequently, with my choice of profession. I want to learn about the history of fashion in order to understand its nature better. I want my future career to allow me to influence fashion and to express my own fashion taste.” Leonie Kobensen, 17 years old, pupil, Bocholt
“No, I can’t imagine pursuing a career in fashion retail, mainly because I think that I would be more suited to working in a creative department. I believe it would give me pleasure to work in a team and achieve a convincing result in that way, be it at a magazine or a fashion company. My dream is to influence fashion in all its facets and to express my own personality. That’s why I think I wouldn’t be suited to a career in retail. What excites me the most about the fashion industry is that it is so versatile. An in-depth study of fashion, as well as a critical evaluation of the topic, is equally appealing to me. However, I would also like to achieve that more people realise that the fashion world is not superficial and perfect, but so much more than that! For me, my work environment is a vital aspect, especially as it affects my performance and influences it significantly. My potential co-workers are also an essential factor, because I believe that collaboration is important and necessary for every successful project. It would therefore be ideal if we were all on the same wavelength. To sum things up, I can’t really say much about my professional future yet, but I am very confident that I will find my niche in this very abstruse and diverse fashion world.” Robert Hamala, 19 years old, high school graduate, Bergisch Gladbach
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10 – 12 FEB 2016 W W W.G D S - O N L I N E .C O M
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PAY DAY Excellent sales staff is the key to the future, but really good employees are rare and hard to find. Poor pay is often a significant contributor to the problem. Can sales assistants earn good money without the business yielding its profitability? More importantly, don’t top salespeople finance themselves anyway? Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
Five branches, 380 employees - no less than 250 employees work in the sales departments of the five branches managed by Gewandhaus Bayern. 150 of them are full-time employees and a mere 20 work on a marginal part-time basis. “We embody service. Our customers really appreciate the fact that we have time for them”, days Hugo Gruber junior, the managing director. This does, however, mean that the personnel costs comprise about 25% of the total expenditure, which is above the industry average. “We believe it’s worth it; we wouldn’t exist without our employees on the sales floor.” Image Problem
It is common knowledge that the sales assistant profession doesn’t enjoy a particularly good image. Salespeople often know less about a product than their customers and many people believe they only chose the job because their lack of ambition at school left them with a limited choice of career paths. In addition, the style in progress 116
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job is poorly paid and generally unattractive due to unusual working hours and a lack of career opportunities. “The retail industry is still struggling with its relics. For a long time, the industry simply didn’t do enough to train its sales assistants better”, says Florian Weingärtner, a managing partner at Invest Search. “The retail industry has, however, realised that it needs to work on the qualifications of its sales staff and has to offer its
Harald Heldmann, managing director at Classico Hamburg:
“The sales assistant profession has a poor image, mainly because it is often occupied by people who are merely in the profession temporarily. There are excellent full-time salespeople, but they usually can’t lead an extravagant life on the salary they receive.”
employees perspectives. Simultaneously, the growth of the retail industry is driven by mono-label stores, with the result that there are fewer salespeople in general. The so-called ‘war of talent’ is intensifying.” The cliché of poor pay doesn’t seem too far-fetched either. “This notion is true, at least for those who are under-qualified and don’t contribute a lot to the business itself ”, Weingärtner explains. “Those who are dedicated to their retail careers certainly will have ample opportunities to increase their income in due course.” Average and Top Wages
A top salesperson can earn approximately 85,000 Euros per year, but that is primarily the case in cities with a particularly 116 style in progress
high level of competition and a high cost of living. The majority of full-timers reach an average annual income between 30,000 and 40,000 Euros, including bonuses and the 13th salary. “We pay a good basic salary, but we have decided against paying commissions to create a more favourable working environment”, Hugo Gruber says. However, Gewandhaus Bayern has Munich on its doorstep. Some Munich-based retailers are perfectly willing to offer a higher wage to poach good salespeople, especially in order to win over young men who have been trained by Gewandhaus Bayern and who are generally scarce. “We try to retain our good employees, and that includes the financial aspect”, Hugo Gruber explains. “Those who say they could earn more in Munich sometimes even return to us. The bottom line is that money isn’t everything.” Harald Heldmann, the managing director of Classico, also knows that he needs to offer a certain salary to lure and retain good salespeople who fit into his business concept. “We need people with personality and a certain standing”, the Hamburg resident says. “We can only secure the services of such individuals with an appropriate wage package. However, the wages always need to stand in a healthy relation to the revenue generated by the respective sales assistants.” Heldmann tried working with commission payments, but both he and his team decided to abandon the model soon thereafter. “Of course it is important to ensure that the sales are good, but the job also has other sides to it. It is important to make sure that the team works well together. If one salesperson generates a lot of revenue, but is no longer willing to shoulder communal responsibilities, then the whole team suffers. The result is a decline of total sales.” More Salespeople = More Revenue?
Isn’t it the case that excellent salespeople basically cost less than they earn for the business? “A competent salesperson costs twice as much as an inefficient one, but the competent one may be worth much, much more”, Hugo Gruber argues. “In
individual cases, good salespeople can bring in more than they cost”, Harald Heldmann confirms. “But you have to look at the bigger picture. Generally speaking, the stationary retail industry is struggling with the fact that individual stores perform as well as they did five years ago, but that, at the same time, the total customer frequency is in decline. Increasing the prices can compensate for this development to a certain extent. However, that only works for as long as the customers are willing to tolerate this approach. Another way to compensate is to increase the average value of individual sales, which can only be achieved with better trained staff.” “The equation that more salespeople automatically generate more revenue is not always true”, says Alexander Petrskovsky, the head of fashion and personnel at Kastner & Öhler. “We have 300 sales days per year. 100 of them are more successful than in the past, while the other 200 are less successful than before. I can’t always offer my employees a higher income based on the sales they generate, mainly because I don’t have all of them on my sales floors on the strong sales days, but possibly on a Tuesday morning, when there are hardly any customers in the store. That is our biggest problem: How can we manage to have our best
Alexander Petrskovsky, the head of fashion and personnel at Kastner & Öhler Graz: “On
the basic level, it may be true that everyone can be a sales assistant. However, a salesperson faces a stiffer challenge as soon as customers demand individual advice. That quickly separates the wheat from the chaff.”
Katrin Thörl-Schultz, personal shopper Ratisbona: “Re-
tailers think too much about what they need, not what their customers need. This approach may have worked for a long time, but now it’s outdated.”
people in the store on our most important sales days? This is complicated by the fact that Austrian retailers are required by law to give their sales assistants every second Saturday off. In turn, this means that I cannot employ more than about one-third of full-time employees in our 14 stores.” Shift Operation
Operational planning is a major challenge for all retailers. In the US, the work shifts of sales assistants are often determined by software that responds to the most recent peak times. The bizarre - and quite inhumane - result is that employees often only know when they need to work shortly before their respective shifts. It is also not uncommon that some employees have to work 40 hours in one week, but only ten hours in the next. Thus the pressure experienced by the stationary retail industry is passed on to the employees, who are expected to show a maximum of flexibility. All this while they, if they rely on commissions, possibly are not earning enough due the fact that they are on the sales floor at a time with low customer frequency. These conditions make it almost impossible to combine a career as a sales assistant with other jobs, a private life with the family, and even additional training. As a result, retailers such as J. Crew, Urban Outfitters, and Gap have
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110 WHAT'S THE STORY HUMAN FACTOR
abandoned the on-call scheduling concept and returned to work assignments on a voluntary basis. “The staff plan is a touchy subject, because you have to be considerate towards those who never demand anything”, Hugo Gruber explains. “We try to accommodate special requests. If it works, it’s possible to make everyone happy. However, our sales times have shifted significantly too and we need to be ready for the customers whenever they come to the store.” This requires an even higher degree of flexibility, which is why the industry has started utilising an increasing number of marginal part-time employees. Many retailers believe that this approach is unavoidable when a store is open for more than eight hours a day. “I don’t see this as a negative development at all; we are quite happy with our marginal parttime employees, especially as we can call upon them on Saturdays and bring them in as backup during the Christmas season”, Alexander Petrskovsky says. “These employees are often former sales assistants or students, who can still be specialists in smaller segments.” Harald Heldmann has, depending on the season, between ten and twenty on the sales floors of his Classico stores. “However, you can’t have too many people on the sales floors if you want the whole system to work”, he adds. “The employees who are only in the store for a few hours per week are, after all, not as involved in the operational processes and don’t have as much background knowledge in terms of the product range.” Katrin Thörl-Schultz is of the opinion that there are - again potentiated by too many marginal part-time employees - too many unqualified sales assistants in the shops. “We are all familiar with the usual scenarios: many are too pre-occupied with unpacking goods and not willing enough to engage with the customers. Therefore, I conclude that the retailers are trying to save on personnel costs and still don’t attach enough importance to good service.” Katrin Thörl-Schultz knows the profession inside out; she worked as a buyer, a salesperson, a trainee, and department head at retail formats 116 style in progress
such as Otto, Marc O’Polo, and Hubert H. in Regensburg, before she decided to use her expertise as a personal shopper six years ago. Her customers really appreciate her service, especially as she doesn’t limit herself to the premium segment, but also includes the likes of H&M and Zara. Thörl-Schultz is adamant that good advice should not be a luxury. “In my experience, the retailers still display a lack of willingness to see my service as an opportunity and to use it to their own advantage. Why don’t they hire more personal shoppers
Florian Weingärtner, managing partner at Invest Search Munich: “The retail
industry needs to ask itself how it can prepare for the future and how it can - in the best sense of the term prove its worth.”
in times when they are needed on the sales floor? That would get them the qualified advice they desire and all sides would benefit equally?” Individuals Make the Difference
In order to ensure that employees have the skills needed to provide good service, many retailers have decided to increase their efforts in terms of training. “We are currently investing heavily in our trainees, especially as we strive to distinguish ourselves from our competition through individual interaction with our customers”, Alexander Petrskovsky explains. “This allows us to train our own sales assistants and future executives.” Hugo Gruber also values a large employee pool that can produce a future executive at
any time. Ultimately, someone rising from the own ranks means that there is less need to hire externally. Nevertheless, Florian Weingärtner insists that the structures that allow advancement in the retail industry were insufficient in the past: “Today, there are more opportunities and the sales assistant profession is diversifying, not only in terms of positions as merchandisers and personal shoppers, but also in terms of customer relationship management and purchasing. The latter now has much more depth due to omni-channel and multi-channel strategies.” Alexander Petrskovsky agrees that the retail industry has the responsibility to improve the poor image of the profession in a sustainable manner. “We need to highlight that selling is a task that can remain attractive for a lifetime. However, there are natural boundaries in terms of improved wages, because the payment has to be based on the generated turnover and, ultimately, the company’s profit.” The human factor will become an increasingly important differentiator in the stationary retail industry. All the more it is necessary to focus on emotions, and not just in terms of product presentation. “The retail industry needs to ask itself how it can prepare for the future and how it can - in the best sense of the term - prove its worth”, Florian Weingärtner says. “Companies with a family-based structure and family-oriented values often find the best solutions, which are also reflected in a high employee retention rate.” “I assume that the online segment could easily contribute 50 percent to the total revenue in ten years time”, Hugo Gruber estimates. “Accordingly, we believe it is paramount to invest in our employees, because everybody needs to be encouraged and challenged. Our popularity as an employer proves that we have chosen the right approach.”
Hugo Gruber, managing director at Gewandhaus Erding:
“We rely strongly on our core workforce that has grown with us as a business. We work with content salespeople who have a real passion for their profession.”
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FROM HUMAN TO HUMAN More than ever, selling is about establishing a relationship between two individuals. What motivates both employees and customers alike? What makes them feel good? What are the key factors for successful co-operation? style in progress did a bit of poking around among sales agencies and sales trainers. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
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The biggest advantage of stationary retailers over their online competitors is the fact that people meet in person. Style consultants and stylists employed by e-retailing concept such as Outfittery, Modomoto, and Zalon by Zalando are trying to establish a personal relationship with the customer via e-mail, phone, and - most probably sooner than one would think - via live chat. However, the online communication channels lack one significant element of evolution: actually meeting face-to-face. A long time ago, prehistoric humans had to decide within seconds whether they were facing a friend or a foe, which is why nature endowed them with a vital instinct. Even today, humans still decide subconsciously whether they like
“It is vital to supply the employees with orientation, security, and recognition.” - Regis Benabou, MAB Fashion Agency
and trust someone or not within the first few seconds. Inseparable Friends
Ingo Vogel, a non-fiction author, rhetoric specialist, and sales coach, has been captivating audiences with impulsive lectures and innovative seminars for almost 20 years. The engineer and former professional athlete is a real master at passing on his indepth knowledge playfully with a high entertainment factor. Do you need proof? Just take a look at the impressive examples of his work on his YouTube channel. Vogel polarises, motivates, arouses, and inspires with his intensity and passion. His client list includes household names such as Adidas, L’Oréal, and Mercedes Benz. His sixth book, titled “Verkaufs einfach emotional - So begeistern Sie Ihre Kunden” (translated: “Sell it with
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emotion - How to inspire your customers”), is rapidly becoming a bestseller. In an exciting and reader-oriented manner, Vogel explains newest expert findings pertaining to the fields of sales psychology, neuro-marketing. In his books, sales training sessions, and lectures, he offers specific advice on how retailers can implement emotion-based customer relationship techniques in order to ensure that the customers enjoy returning to the store and purchase items regularly. “The most important recipe for success is that successful sales assistants interact with the customers from person to person. They avoid behaving submissively or arrogantly. They interact with the customers at eye level, as they would with their friends”, Ingo Vogel explains. “Friends are authentic. Sales techniques that were taught in the past no longer yield the desired long-term success. This has been proven scientifically. Your opposite notices relatively quickly when you simply use memorised phrases, try to pursue common sales strategies, or quote a standardised catalogue of questions. Humans want to feel real emotions. They want someone to take a sincere interest and address their individual needs in an honest manner. To gain their confidence, you require clear statements, personal recommendations, sincere attention, and sensitivity. The exact wording is not the crucial factor here; it is more about the tone, facial expressions, and the way someone expresses something. The eyes are incredibly important in this respect. An intense look says more than the standardised ‘Can I help you?’ phrase”, Vogel says. Therefore, it is much more important to trigger curiosity and the desire to experience a rewarding shopping experience than to merely exchange pleasantries. Passion is Contagious
“Passion for fashion is an important motivational factor. The same applies to the interest in and the fascination for the respective brand. This is the only way to place a collection
with two or four order dates per year successfully on a regular basis and to remain in constant contact with the customer to ensure that the brand continues to develop positively”, says Regis Benabou, the owner of MAB Fashion, an agency that represents brands such as 3.1 Philipp Lim, BLK DNM, ba&sh, Fendi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, National Standard, Opening Ceremony, Proenza Schouler, and Paul & Joe in Germany. His business covers all fashion fields from contemporary to luxury, which means that he demands a variety of qualities from his employees. “In addition to commercial know-how, one needs an indepth understanding in terms of fashion. The fundamental question is always how to ensure that the customer can generate added value. This challenge includes researching new brands at trade shows, meetings with our existing partners, and appointments with retailers.” He attaches just as much importance to teamwork and a collegial interaction on equal terms as he does to an attractive working environment. “We afford our employees the opportunity to work independently and autonomously. They can contribute to important decisions. Even though expressing yourself and working independently are significant contributors to a balanced quality of life, it is not always possible everywhere. The same applies to the brands and clients with whom we co-operate. We operate in a very challenging spectrum that is defined by individuality. You won’t find that stuck behind a desk in a huge office in an industrial area. It is vital to supply the employees with orientation, security, and recognition. In addition, you need to be a role model, lead by example, and embody the values you expect your employees to adhere to.” Appreciation is not only a part of good management. Many studies show that employee appreciation has a positive effect on motivation levels and is often associated with the physical and psychological health of employees.
“It requires clear statements, personal recommendations, sincere attention, and sensitivity.” - Ingo Vogel, sales coach
Backing
For more than 25 years, the Düsseldorf-based agency of Stefan Wittmann has based its success on the distribution of more than 20 urban premium labels from Italy, France, the Netherlands, Denmark, and Germany. The portfolio includes, among others, jackets by Jott, Project Force, and Canadian Classics, sneakers by P448, shoes by Gardenia and Shoe Biz, menswear by Cuna, and numerous complete women’s collections by the likes of Charlie Jo, Circle of Trust, La Fée Maraboutée, and Rosamunde. On the German market, Stefan Wittmann often acts as general manager and co-operates with free trade representatives in different areas. “We have the backs of our colleagues in sales by taking care of all interactions with the sales managers of the respective brands. Endless meetings, time-consuming reporting, and extensive forecasts are but a few distractions that prevent the salespeople from doing their job properly. Sober bureaucratic co-ordination processes, which can be very factual, monotonous, and uninspiring, are hardly a good preparation for attending an order appointment full of passion, motivation, and lifeblood in a few hours or even the next morning”, Wittmann argues. “The same rings true for lengthy negotiations such as the recurring discussions about the purchase of sample collections”, he adds. He strongly believes that sales representatives should be able to take care of daily business and tend to the needs of the customer without distraction, rather than having to deal with administrative or organisational procedures. The latter is handled by competent employees in his
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back office. They take care of such tasks and act as a buffer between the brands and the sales representatives in order to prevent disturbances, restlessness, and stress during the order process.
“We have the backs of our colleagues in sales.” - Stefan Wittmann, Agentur Wittmann
Success in Three Minutes
Andrea Grudda is a professional actress. Many years ago, she decided to specialise in sales training for the fashion and lifestyle segments. In 2005, she started coaching domestic and international companies. In 2011, she teamed up with Hans-Jürgen Hartauer, a gastronomy expert, to write a book titled “Power Briefing”. The next book, titled “Power Briefing for the Fashion Trade”, was published in 2014. Her client list includes household names such as Levi’s, MCM, Bang & Olufsen, Fashion Net, and Jades Düsseldorf. What does Power Briefing stand for? What does it entail and how does it work? Andrea Grudda explains: “A Power Briefing has three phases. The first is short: welcome, praise, and discuss the organisation. The second is a
“Power Briefings are an excellent tool for training staff in complex issues and difficult processes step by step.” - Andrea Grudda, coach and author
little longer and entails passing on brief information about a topic before testing the participants by asking a lot of questions on the subject at hand. The more questions you ask, the more efficient the training is. The third phase is short again and consists of a summary of the discussion and a positive conclusion.” Every briefing is a closed system with a beginning, a climax, and a conclusion - and always with an individual subject. The more varied the content, the more interesting the briefing is for the employees.
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The topics can be, among others, the introduction of a new brand, the explanation of the perfect complaints procedure, or current sales techniques. It is vital to convey the content in short sentences, thereby ensuring the content is passed on to the customers exactly the way you want it to be. “Power Briefings are an excellent tool to train complex issues and difficult processes step by step”, Grudda says. She recommends her customers to use the technique at the same time on a daily basis. “The training should never last much longer than three minutes. The fact that everyone starts into a new work day together often leads to the employees demanding the daily briefing, which, in turn, means it can be integrated into the daily routine fairly easily”, says Grudda when asked to share her experience. Her conclusion is that the training sessions bring a certain element of security, as well as much needed fun and good humour, to everyday life. The employees start their work day with a smile on their lips. This improves the working environment and usually leads to a new corporate culture in terms of dealing with each other. Meet Your Own Expectations
Daily meetings are an integral part of the success enjoyed by Vestitus, an agency with seven employees headquartered in Düsseldorf ’s Medienhafen. The portfolio only includes well-established labels such as Jacob Cohën, Santoni, Herno, Antonelli, Finamore, and Fedeli. All the aforementioned brands are specialists whose individual collections serve the jacket,
shirt, trousers, knitwear, shoe, and accessories segments. Peter Haertel, the agency’s managing director, explains why he believes that the motivation of staff is paramount: “Consistency and honesty are important. Naturally, the atmosphere within the team is equally important. Our employees are actively involved in all our dealings, from A to Z. This includes the production plant negotiations before the season starts, the entire order phase, the delivery, and the sale in the stores. We talk every day to pass on important information and to prepare for upcoming challenges as a team. We perceive ourselves as a reliable all-year service partner for our customers. Each brand has its permanent contact, regardless whether the customer calls in February, May, or October. We enjoy a very close and trustful relationship with our customers. Our working method is continuous and concentrated; we take smaller branches just as seriously as the fashion houses in larger cities. Today, competence, professionalism, and honesty are the basic requirements for every successful co-operation. It is crucial that product information reaches the sales assistants on the sales floors by means of training sessions. In addition, we also publish periodical newsletters containing important information about new products or relevant press releases to ensure that our customers are always up to date. We do this in order to meet our own expectations. The same applies to our showroom, which we remodel every season. Both the customers and the employees have to feel comfortable. It is not only easier to work in beautiful rooms with a splendid view; such an environment also ensures that people feel more comfortable. We are all passionate and enthusiastic about what we do. One of our employees has been with us for 25 years. All employees tend to stay part of our business for a long time.” Over the past decades, it has become increasingly difficult to find good employees, to motivate them, and to retain them as part of a committed workforce. Struc-
tured communication models, which are designed to explain correlations and requirements plausibly, draw the employees into the work process on an emotional level and prevent a lack of identification with the company. Such an adequate internal communication structure is an excellent management tool to exploit potential to its fullest. The challenge for sustainable businesses of the future is to integrate employees, to let them feel that entrepreneurial thinking, suggestions for improvement, and critical dialogue are important and valued elements of success.
“Today, competence, professionalism, and honesty are the basic requirements for every successful co-operation.” - Peter Haertel, Agentur Vestitus
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It’s a People’s Business The “human touch” has returned to advertising. The larger, more anonymous, and more confusing corporations and media become, the more strategists and trend researchers focus on factors such as “authenticity” and “individuality”. There is no substitute for the “human factor”. Fortunately…. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
Almost everyone knows the man in the Trigema advert. Wolfgang Grupp is the incarnate one-man show of the textile middle class. He sets the tone not only in his advertising spot, but also in his business. He may seem like a fossil at first glance, but, upon closer inspection, he reflects many longings of today’s consumers. The man is real - he actually exists. Unlike bogus identities born out of the imagination of marketing strategists, the entrepreneur from the Swabian town of Burladingen is not a pop-up bubble, but highly authentic - even though “authentic” is one of the words with the highest abuse factor over recent years. Come to think of it, it may be a good idea to tell writers that they are no longer allowed to use the word at all. Those who lack such a credible testimonial, simply create their own. All you need is an artificially scarce limited edition, packaging that looks as if it was hand-crafted, an advertising campaign with “authentic” looking people, and a few videos showing details of a classic manufactory. The result is - hey presto! - the perfect melange. Please note that the protagonists
of the campaign must be bearded and a close-up of the hands is indispensable. Authenticity Works
The term “hand-crafted” does not only sell clothing, accessories, and shoes, but also countless other products such as beer, chocolate, cosmetics, whiskeys, and roughly hewn furniture. Even analogous cheese in discount supermarkets boasts the aforementioned label these days. What does this trend reveal about us? The consumers dream - often against better knowledge - of a human, easily understandable world, in which the human being is the measure of all things, not the industrial production that cobbles together fake consumer products in the cheapest way possible to pull real money out of our pockets. What could help? And what is truly authentic? The answer is real people and real products with entrepreneurs and retailers who are willing to vouch for their products. We need individuals who understand how to produce - or let others produce - real items with real passion. We need individuals who are willing to advertise their products with their own personality and reputation. This can be a successful approach for both established companies and start-ups. Here are a few case studies:
and Italian to the core. The marketing strategy is focused on the business being a family project. “I am responsible for the design, my sister takes care of styling, my brother is the photographer, and my wife and my cousin are in front of the camera.” De Luca takes care of every little detail in person and carefully selects Italian fabrics, which are then utilised by his production partners to create a collection in line with the company founder’s taste. “We do everything we do with passion”, he explains. “Our customers appreciate this approach. They like it when I attend a trade show in person. A brand simply needs a face.” Thus, the human factor does not only work in terms of a product, but also in terms of marketing. “We attach great importance to maintaining personal contacts with both the larger customers and the really small ones. Many of our business partners appreciate our contact policy and downto-earth attitude. Every member of our team is passionate and fully identifies with what we do. Ultimately, it’s just like cooking. If a dish lacks good ingredients and passion, it just doesn’t taste nice…” Valentino de Luca’s
approachable strategy has made him a valuable partner for his trade customers and he is an integral part of the product ranges of many retail partners such as Hirmer and Lodenfrey. Start-Ups With Personality
The personality angle can also be a successful strategy for startups. Shwetha Ringel’s bag label is not even one year old yet. However, she can easily compete with established companies in terms of passion and charisma. The founder with an Indian background has settled down in Düsseldorf after stints in London and the US. Her Indian family consists of artists, dancers, and designers. Ringel herself studied philosophy, mass communication, and global marketing. Her education, as well as the experience she gained at advertising agencies such as Grey and BBDO, proved to be advantageous in the process of developing a concept for her label. Her business partner, Sandra Breede, is also an advertising specialist and takes care of business administration. Shwetha Ringel has a penchant for the exotic. She affords her customers the possibility to place
The Name Says It All
Valentino de Luca had a very good reason for calling his brand “Lucky de Luca”. The philosophy of the fashion label is “for very lucky people” and one can literally feel de Luca’s joie de vivre through the mobile phone. The logo is a lucky shamrock. The designs are playful, cheerful,
Lucky de Luca operates as a family business: Valentino de Luca, the founder, is at the helm of the business.
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Charisma and passion: Sandra Breede and Shwetha Ringel are the driving forces behind the bag label Shwetha.
advance orders for Phulkari, an Indian embroidery technique from Punjab. Her suppliers are small businesses in India; she attaches great importance to fair trade. “It’s important to me to use a variety of craft techniques from different regions, thereby developing my unique style.” Her collection is an antidote to the mass market. It consists of 12 types of bags ranging from a small handbag to large shoppers at prices between 150 and 400 Euros. The collection triggered an immediate response and Handelsblatt, a German economy newspaper, soon dedicated a whole page to Shwetha Ringel and her team. “If you, as a founder, want to attract attention, it is important that you put your person forward”, the lively cosmopolitan says. “Humans identify more with a person than with a brand.” In her experience, the large luxury brands are losing more and more exclusivity. “Seriously, who would want to spend a lot of money on a random product that is worn by thousands of people across the globe? For me, that is no longer exclusivity.” During the label’s first season, the team relied on “private shopping events” and invited their girlfriends, and their friends for that matter, to join in. The networking approach worked so well that the team soon started planning and implementing further events in other cities. The label experienced its next boost when Elle McPherson, a former supermodel, was photographed with a Shwetha bag. But isn’t that a contradiction to the exclusivity strategy? “No. If you find a celebrity who shares your values, it’s wonderful”, Ringel 116 style in progress
Moritz Wenz swears by artisanal production techniques. His eponymous store in Düsseldorf offers a carefully chosen range of products with history.
explains. “Elle McPherson is an excellent match for the ideas I base my collection on. She dresses casually, loves travelling, and pays attention to sustainability - just like me.” The next step is to equip the British Hemsley sisters, two shooting stars of the culinary scene and perfect ambassadors for Shwetha’s bags. For the founder, who loves cooking in her own free time, the sisters are the ideal embodiment of her customers… Hands On Craftsmanship
Identification via real entrepreneurs is equally essential in the retail sector. Moritz Wenz has been operating his eponymous store and showroom in Düssel-
dorf ’s trendy Flingern district since autumn 2015. By opening the 140 square metre store with an adjacent studio, the jewellery and industrial designer fulfilled his lifelong dream of creating a space for authentic products for men. All items are crafted by hand, preferably in Germany. The product range includes traditional pocket knives, accessories by Flöz, jewellery, leather items, stationery, and Klippan blankets from Scandinavia, as well as spirits and even steaks from the regional cult butcher. The concept is particularly visible in the case of Blaumann Jeans: Japanese denim with German ingredients manufactured by a small business in the Upper Palatinate. “The cottage industry approach and modern craftsmanship are important to me”, Moritz Wenz explains. He is not just a retailer, but also acts as a consultant for other companies, thus creating design and sales strategies for his clients. The knife manufacturer Otter, headquartered in the neighbouring blade stronghold of Solingen, is but one example. The tradition-steeped company hand-crafts various types of knives. Wenz is responsible for design, packaging, distribution, and marketing. He has already won several awards for his design work. The leather used for his covers and accessories is organically tanned by a business from southern Germany. “The most difficult part of the process is to find suitable craftsmen”, Wenz says. When selecting products, it is vital to focus on the history behind every item. “First and foremost, the chemistry between the partners has to be right. Then there’s the small matter of reliability.” This also becomes apparent in how the end user is treated. “My customers show a desire for consistency”, Wenz says. “Their quality of life is not defined by increasing consumption, but by other values. Durable products create added value and structures that, ultimately, benefit many.” Stories - And What They Promise
Stories like this one - and many others - can be found in abundance in the fashion industry: Gisa Golpira’s story, for instance,
sounds like a fairy tale. The young entrepreneur spent the first years of her life in the Amazon rainforest before returning to European civilisation. Today, she markets jewellery and gold nuggets from fairly operated gold mines with her own personal story. Many luxury brands that imitate authenticity could learn a lot from her. But who is a good testimonial when even the top designers are no longer the figureheads they used to be? Some companies were quick to realise how important it is to allow customers to participate in the crafting process. As early as 2012, Hermès launched the “Festival des Art et Métiers”, an event during which Hermès craftsmen travel to different cities all over the globe to demonstrate how a silk carré is made, how a saddle is crafted, and how a bag maker applies the finishing touches to one of the world-famous Hermès bags. It is no big surprise that there already is a digital counterpart that claims to stand for authenticity: Periscope. The app allows its users to broadcast videos via a live stream. These videos are guaranteed to be uncut, which promises a certain element of approachability. As consumers, we can now, allegedly, gain an unfiltered insight into the backstage happenings at fashion shows by Burberry, Marc Jacobs, or DKNY. The Zukunftsinstitut, a trend and future research institution based in Hamburg, calls the management of different identities in the digital world “nothenticity” - the exact opposite of authenticity. The one real identity stands in contrast to many, arbitrary identities. A certain element of scepticism remains when large conglomerates want us to believe that they, of all people, are providing us with authentic, individual, and truly hand-crafted stories and products.
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“Every Item Tells a Story” How can you shape the personality of a brand? There is only one answer: Do it yourself. Last year, Christian Weber and his partner, Manuel, founded the Weber + Weber Sartoria label. Their recipe: Austrian fabrics hand-processed in Italian manufactories. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Weber + Weber
How did you develop the idea for your label?
We believe that certain sectors of the fashion industry no longer properly address the needs of the people and have, in some cases, even lost touch with the consumers completely. Unfortunately, the focus often shifts from the product itself to celebrities or fashion shows. Everything is optimised in terms of revenue and profit, which means that the product itself takes a back seat. Seeing that we live and work in Austria, we have, in particular, noticed this in respect of traditional “Tracht” clothing. Amazingly, young people have developed an interest in this topic, mainly because it offers an authenticity and individuality that they can’t find elsewhere. We pick up this basic principle with Weber + Weber Sartoria. There is a story behind every fabric and every button; many items are hand-crafted to between twenty and thirty percent. Our label is not defined by an old-fashioned, rustic “Trachten” look, but by cool tailoring with heritage. The Alpine region still harbours fantastic weaving mills specialising in wool fabrics, Loden, and felt. They are overdyed to create a cool look; this is what we associate with the craftsmanship of Italian manufactories.
products. For us, one of the main questions is who we team up with. Our clothing manufacturers are small to medium-sized businesses that we know personally. We don’t stage fancy fashion shows and never have huge booths at trade shows. Instead, we afford ourselves the luxury to work together with Italian companies and can therefore influence the production process directly. How do you tell this story?
We don’t work with the usual means such as big advertising campaigns or shows, but prefer to organise an appealing customer event like we did with Bregenz-based Sagmeister, our very first commercial customer. We presented our capsule collection during the “Felted Art” event in order to highlight how felt and Loden can be processed in the context of art. We received excellent feedback and it was a great opportunity to meet customers personally. It was truly wonderful: not a lot of marketing, but down-to-earth. How important is it that you, as the figureheads of the brand, are on location?
It’s an integral part of our project. We aren’t an anonymous
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designer brand. The great thing is that consumers can experience us in person and actually talk to us. In exchange, we can also get to know our customers better. This leads to a wonderful dialogue that benefits all parties. After the events, we stay in contact via social media. There are always suggestions, questions, and information regarding fabrics and manufacturers that we can pass on. That defines our project. Personal contact with our customers is exactly what we want to achieve. How much private information do you share? Your YouTube videos not only show the shooting’s “Making Of”, but also give insights as to what your home looks like…
How much of yourself is reflected in Weber + Weber?
A lot, I’d say. We wear every item we manufacture and all our products are tested over a few months. Every item needs to be of high quality, practical, and comfortable - in short: we don’t manufacture disposable
Christian and Manuel Weber believe that personality is the most important criteria for their label.
A little Alpine, a little urban, and a little Italian: Weber + Weber’s Cool Tailoring.
When you conduct business like we do, then it is part of the strategy. In principle, it is not merely about developing a product, but also about filling a brand with life. This rings especially true when you use your own name for the brand. A brand that is highly approachable needs to reflect parts of your own personality to be credible. We are also down-to-earth in our private lives to a certain extent. My partner is a professional gardener and our home in Vorarlberg is
at an altitude of 1,000 metres. Ultimately, the customers notice if you are merely playing a part. They know if you’re living the life you’re representing or not. Why is authenticity so important today?
I believe that fashion is something very personal. You wear it on your skin and on your body all day long. That makes it one of the most personal things. Fashion is the first thing others notice. The passion for fashion has been lost. The customers are unsure who they can still trust. The product per se has lost its credibility. The food industry, for instance, quickly realised that regional origin is vitally important. You can find examples of this in almost every supermarket. It seems to be appreciated by the customers. We are working hard to be transparent enough to allow the customers to understand where the items they buy originate from. They need to rebuild their trust in the brand. People who attend our events can see that we live the lifestyle our brand stands for. Our customers can visit every one of our factories - we have absolutely nothing to hide.
www.marlino.com
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nd ROW
German schools barely register on the international radar of design and fashion education. Germany’s non-presence is caused by system failures, but also by a distinct lack of suitable role models. Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
It requires human capital to nurture an industry successfully. There should be no lack of such human capital in Germany. Despite the well-known fact that the country’s fashion industry is smaller than the fashion industries of Great Britain, France, and Italy, Germany has more than 40 schools for fashion design, which surpasses the number of schools in the major fashion nations. However, one hardly ever hears anything about the German institutions. Successful Germans, such as Tomas Maier and Karl Lagerfeld, studied in France, while others, such as Wolfgang Joop, Dorothee Schumacher, Johnny Talbot, and Adrian Runhof, didn’t even study fashion. It seems as if the German fashion schools don’t exist. The majority of the elite fashion schools can be, predictably, found close to the industry’s epicentres. London boasts Central Saint Martins, The Royal College of Art, and The London College of Fashion, while New York houses Parsons and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). In Paris, future fashion stars
can choose between Institute Français de la Mode (IFM), Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale, and Studio Berçot. Milan offers Instituto Marangoni and one shouldn’t forget to mention Polimoda in Florence. The proximity to the major Fashion Weeks and trade shows, as well as large fashion houses, is obviously a crucial factor for international reputation. Julia Menthel, who studied fashion design at Polimoda and FIT, is the co-founder and managing director of Agency V, a PR agency headquartered in Berlin. She explains how she benefited from the infrastructure: “In New York, the schools and the industry are very closely interconnected. Many of the teachers have worked in the industry for a long time or are even still active. Alongside the technical training, the students are thrown into the deep end during internships and are allocated industry mentors who speak to them once a week. The German colleges don’t teach their students that designing is merely a small part of their work and that both production and organisation are equally important.”
Kenzo Takado, Yohji Yamamoto, and Junya Watanabe, who all left a lasting impression in the international fashion scene. Both colleges are characterised by a strict curriculum with compulsory attendance, which creates demands that many students fail to meet. The students are drilled until every cut is executed perfectly. This rigidity can rarely be found in Germany. Another success factor is the distinct DNA of these institutions. Antwerp promotes experimental and innovative design methods. Tokyo, on the other hand, bases its curriculum on a five-pronged programme: collaboration, sustainability, craftsmanship, individual expression, and a social value of clothing. The latter means that clothing is not designed on mannequins, but on the bodies of average people. A recent addition to the ranks of renowned design colleges is Aalto University in Helsinki. Over the last few years, the graduates from the Finnish college have made quite a splash at international competitions, catalysed by significant financial means and professors who spent years working in the fashion industry in Paris, London, and Milan.
Profile Despite Lacking Industry Ties
What German Schools Lack
The Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp has proven that one can be successful despite a lack of industry ties. It rose to international fame abruptly in the 1980s following the success of the Antwerp Six. The same applies to Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, which produced a whole range of avant-garde fashion stars such as
“Helsinki has lecturers who are still working in fashion companies and have a network that is beneficial for the school. At most German schools, the quality of the lecturers is insufficient and there is no link to the fashion press and companies. Many of the lecturers have never worked successfully in the industry”, says
Damir Doma, one of the few internationally successful German designers. In 2004, Doma completed his studies at Esmod, which has campuses in Berlin and Munich, with magna cum laude, but he insists that he was really trained elsewhere: “I learned most of my skills from my mother, who worked in the industry, and during my work at Dirk Schönberger, Raf Simons, and Ann Demeulemeester in Antwerp. No school can teach you to have a vision of what you want and where you want to head. That requires interest, own initiative, motivation, and hard work. What a school can do is to prepare its students and to help them open their minds. What happens in Germany is national in scope and goes very little beyond that.” Boris Bidjan Saberi didn’t even consider an education in Germany. He opted for studying in Barcelona, where he subsequently started building his own business in 2006. “I went to Spain because I like the culture. I don’t believe that an academic education makes you successful. One can attend the best fashion schools, but won’t achieve anything if one lacks an individual soul.” However, Nobieh Talaei, an Esmod graduate, is not the only person to highlight that fashion education has changed considerably in the meantime. After twelve years in retail and merchandising departments of domestic and international fashion houses, she decided to establish her own fashion label style in progress 116
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“Many of the lecturers have never worked successfully in the industry.” Damir Doma
Nobi Talai with the backing of Fashion Council Germany. “When I studied 15 years ago, it was lacking practical relevance. Our trainees, with whom we are very satisfied, prove that a lot has changed since then.” She strongly contradicts the preconception that German fashion schools fail to mould anyone significant: “Many Germans are making a difference in the fashion world. They might not do so under their own name, but they work for renowned fashion houses and thus find their place within the industry.”
ed her own fashion company in 2013. Items from her debut collection were worn by Lady Gaga and included in the collection of New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. She enjoys the backing of the Fashion Council Germany, which offers a support programme for young designers that consists of supplying personal mentors from the fashion press and industry. Even critics such as Julia Menthel and Damir Doma acknowledge that things are changing: “In German-speaking countries, both Vienna and the UdK are doing a great job by teaching small classes and employing lecturers with international networks”, Doma says. “You can tell that the schools are eager to address their issues and improve their programmes within their means”, Menthel adds. Heike Selmer, a professor at the Art Academy Weissensee, confirms a significant change in terms of recruiting over the last few years: “In terms of student projects, we co-operate with the fashion industry and international organisations, for example with the cashmere manufacturers of Umbria.” No Bad Reputation - Simply No Reputation
Valeska Schmidt-Thomson, the director of the fashion and textile design department at Berlin’s
Success Requires Support and Courage
Marina Hoermanseder also sees her education positively. “University is a place where you should express yourself. We need to work out everything else ourselves. Your individual personality is a vital factor - I learned that during my time at Alexander McQueen. I don’t believe that an institution can tell me how to be creative and how to establish a business. There is no schedule for such matters; you have to fight your way through all that by yourself.” The native Austrian studied business administration at the Vienna University of Economics and attended courses at Central Saint Martins College before focusing on her studies at Esmod Berlin, where she found116 style in progress
University of Arts (UdK), studied in Antwerp and collaborated with Nicolas Ghesquière and Stella McCartney: “The curriculum we offer on our budget is exceptional. As a public school, we have no resources for communication and the media reports are very one-sided. It is a perception problem caused by the fact that the media often only reports about the figurehead, not about the team. There are countless German graduates in the second row and they are essential for the success of fashion houses.” Her colleague, Waldemar Kraus, worked at Emilio Pucci. He adds: “German students do find their place in the international fashion industry and are often preferred to others due to their technical skills and precision. Hugo Boss, for instance, mainly recruits people from Europe, mainly because they know they are hiring graduates who work conceptually and are good at implementing.” Patrick Rietz, who was a designer at French couture specialist Grès for a long time before becoming a professor at the Art Academy Weissensee, confirms: “A lot of German graduates work at fashion houses in London and Paris.” If one takes a closer look at the second row of large brands, one really does find a lot of German graduates. Claudia Bothe, a graduate of the University of Applied Sciences and Arts Hannover and the head designer at Liebeskind, was previously a senior designer for Étoile at Isabel Marant. Janosch Mallwitz, a UdK graduate, is the senior menswear designer for Diesel Black Gold. Network and Communication as Success Factors
“University is a place where you express yourself. We need to work out everything else ourselves.” Marina Hoermanseder
Ultimately, the success of graduates is not only defined by their training. As always, networking is what opens many doors within the industry. When Vivienne Westwood decided to leave her professorship at UdK, which was then known as the Academy of Arts, she said: “Forget London’s Saint Martins College. Berlin has the best fashion students in the world.” However, both the schools and the industry can still hone how the young talents make their way after graduating. The devil is hidden in the detail
“I don’t believe that an academic education makes you successful.” Boris Bidjan Saberi
- as is so often the case. The most successful international fashion schools are supported by the state or the local industry lobby. This support doesn’t exist in Germany; mainly because the country’s federal structure also affects the educational landscape. State schools, in particular, struggle with bureaucracy. They are required to navigate through a bureaucratic maze before they receive additional funding. The isolated existence of design education also appears to be a disadvantage in international comparison. If art schools isolate their design programmes, their graduates will ultimately remain lone fighters. The Academy of Fashion & Design (AMD) and the Fashion Design Institute are trying to change the status-quo. The two institutions not only teach design, but also management, marketing, and journalism. This approach not only causes the placement rate among graduates to soar, but such an integrated training programme also satisfies the need the industry has been highlighting for quite some time: less designers, more (product) managers.
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Dornschild. THE JACKET WITHOUT SLEEVES It led a shadowy existence for a very long time. As an integral element of a three-piece suit, the vest has always been a style tool in the off-the-peg segment. Dornschild, a Munich-based manufactory, has now proven that the vest can also be one of the most versatile fashion statements menswear has to offer. Dornschild has positioned it as a jacket without sleeves. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Dornschild
The idea for Dornschild was born out of necessity. Jörn Boysen, a marketing expert and agency owner, was looking for a fashionable vest and failed to find one that suited his needs. In the end, he decided to launch his own collection. Together with his business partner, Michael Ostermayer, he presented the label’s first order collection for autumn/winter 2015. Jörn Boysen even introduced the collection to selected reference customers in person. And lo and behold, Dornschild had clearly struck a nerve. “The vest has always been there, but it was also always misunderstood. For me personally, a vest is a jacket without sleeves and extremely versatile. That’s why the back of most of our vests isn’t made of lining fabric. We only use the finest Italian fabrics that are distinct and not what you’d call classic suit fabrics”, Jörn Boysen explains. Details such as patched pockets, coloured lining, fine buttons, contrast colour stitches, and unusual material combinations give every vest a unique fashion twist. The label managed to gain a strong foothold in the premium fashion segment with retail prices ranging from 179 to 229 Euros. It has long become 116 style in progress
clear that the initial fears about being placed – and remaining unnoticed – next to the suits in the main department were completely unfounded. Five Basic Cuts - Endless Looks
Today, Jörn Boysen knows that the sophistication of a vest is defined by its cut. Dornschild offers five basic models: single-breasted, single-breasted with lapels, double-breasted with lapels, a tuxedo vest, and a biker model. “A vest is a truly unforgiving item of clothing. It needs to be scaled in a manner that makes it suitable for every body shape. Perfection lies in the details, which is why we refine the cut each season. We’re talking about millimetres that can make all the difference.” The vests are cut a little narrower and longer, which means they look great on Benno Führmann and Roger Cicero alike. The list of celebrity clients is already very long, by the way. Word about the brand’s early success in terms of sales spread quickly. Potential customers from Switzerland and Northern
The Dornschild vests achieve their full potential in a high fashion environment. They can be worn as part of a casual look with t-shirt and scarf, or as part of a more contemporary menswear chic with shirt and handkerchief. And let’s not forget they still are a perfect match for classic suits.
Italy even approached Dornschild out of the blue. Via its online shop, the label even sells its vests to non-European countries. The next step is to expand the sales network in Scandinavia. In the first order round, Boysen managed to convince household names such as Hirmer, Ludwig Beck, Stiesing, Kastner & Öhler, and Stierblut - and all of them placed repeat orders. “After three to four weeks, we received phone calls telling us that 70% of the stock had been sold.” Luckily, the label chose a production partner in Slovakia, which means that repeat orders can be executed swiftly. The little manufactory intends to stick to its high-quality positioning and its strong product claim. Jörn Boysen is convinced that “every brand starts with a strong core product. And we are THE vest brand!” www.dornschild.com
Jörn Boysen, the managing director of Dornschild, has developed a real zeitgeist product.
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FOR LIFE IN THE OPEN
130 WHAT'S THE STORY
Bosideng. SAVVY DOWN
The fashionable down jackets by Bosideng Italy boast an unusual price-performance ratio that is well-received by the market.
The approach is bold. And the strategy is so crystal clear that Giancarlo Tafuro, the head of marketing at Bosideng Italy, merely has to highlight a few individual milestones to make the company’s aims understandable: Bosideng has set out to conquer the European market. Text: Isabel Faiss, Photos: Bosideng Italy
That was as of early 2015. In the meantime, Bosideng has found its stylistic home in Italy, set up headquarters in Rome, assembled a team with an excellent international network, and implemented an adequate image. Bosideng, one of seven private labels of Hong Kongbased Bosideng International Holdings Limited, is the proud epitome of the shift from cheap production to products defined by high functionality, in-depth production know-how, highest quality, and fashionable sophistication. By the way, Bosideng International Holdings Limited 116 style in progress
was founded as a down specialist back in 1976 and mainly produces collections for international designer labels. Fresh Start in Europe
Even though Bosideng is the world leader for down jackets and has more than 7,500 points of sale in China, the brand entered the European market with no name recognition at all. The idea for Bosideng Italy was seen as a solution for this problem. The brand developed a collection with an Italian design signature that is tailored to the needs of European customers in order to promote international export from its base in Italy. Bosideng Italy was officially launched in 2014, but found itself in a European market that is satiated in terms of down jackets and defined by aggressive price competition. It was a challenge, but one that was, given Bosideng’s background, easy enough to master. Backed by the extensive production know-how of its parent holding,
Giancarlo Tafuro, the marketing manager of Bosideng Italy, and his team are promoting the international expansion of the successful down jacket collection from their base in Rome.
access to production plants in China, and a state-of-the-art design language, Bosideng Italy can offer its customers a truly amazing price-performance ratio. Despite being on par with established labels in terms of quality, the purchase prices range from 75 to 80 Euros. Marketing manager Giancarlo Tafuro: “Our strategy is to offer a beautiful, contemporary product that has, compared to our competitors, the same quality level, but at a more affordable price. That allows us to cover a large section of the market, because many people buy more than one jacket for different occasions. We produce down jackets for everyday use; they are not only perfect for trips into the mountains, but also perfectly suitable for gala dinners.”
available in Spain, England, and Russia. “By 2017, we will implement retail projects in the most important international metropolises to enhance Bosideng Italy’s reputation and brand awareness. For now, the main aim of the company is to focus on the Italian market and to strengthen its standing there”, Giancarlo Tafuro explains. This involves a close partnership with customers such as Peek & Cloppenburg with Fashion ID, or Nuova Moda, whom Bosideng doesn’t merely offer one main collection per season, as well as an additional pre-collection for autumn/ winter, but also a flexible NOS programme. In January, Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz plans to showcase Bosideng Italy’s collection at the Panorama trade show in Berlin.
Competent Team
In autumn 2015, the Munichbased fashion agency D-tails, owned by Patrick CoppolecchiaReinartz, was selected as the sales representative of Bosideng Italy’s collection, which is now also
www.bosideng-italy.it
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132 WHAT'S THE STORY
Gaastra. NEW COURSE
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Gaastra. The maritime sportswear brand Gaastra underwent a gentle course correction under the leadership of its new CEO, Oliver Frielingsdorf. Now it’s getting ready for its next manoeuvre: the ascent into the premium segment. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Gaastra
Man on board! About a year ago, Oliver Frielingsdorf decided to take the rudder of Netherlands-based lifestyle brand Gaastra. The company, which has been part of McGregor Fashion Group since 2000, generates an annual turnover of 100 million Euros. Frielingsdorf, who is a sailing enthusiast himself, is no stranger in the fashion industry. His career led him to household names such as Triumph International, Nautica, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, and Lee Jeans. When he arrived at Gaastra, the first thing he did was listen. Instead of changing course abruptly, he opted for preparing the brand and its team - for a new course very cautiously. “After a lengthy trade show abstinence, we have now returned to making our presence known. We want to show our customers what the new Gaastra stands for: better qualities, a good price-performance ratio, and a unique posi-
tioning in the premium segment. With Gaastra Pro Gear, we are launching a technical underwear line at Ispo Vision. Our wish list for future trade fair appearances include the Pitti Uomo and the Premium in Berlin.” The brand is also investing heavily in its retail operations: “In the context of our forthcoming expansion in the UK, we tested the market with a pop-up store during the Raceweek in Cowes. We did the same with our store in Newport, the sailing Mecca of the US. In Sweden, where we operate a shop in Malmo, we are one step further and recently opened a flagship store in Stockholm’s new Mall of Scandinavia. We plan to open the next store in Oslo in March. Furthermore, we plan to open three stores in Poland and another three in the Czech Republic this year”, Frielingsdorf explains. Waterproof and Wind Resistant
The compact Gaastra Pro line caters for the needs of both professional and recreational yachtsmen. It almost exclusively utilises fleece, hard shell, and soft shell by Gore-Tex, which justifies retail prices between 349 and 599 Euros. What the brand learns during the development of its Gaastra Pro line also trickles down to its lifestyle
collection. The latter was given a new structure, reduced to 400 styles, and is now divided into three segments named Sports, Yacht-Club, and Sailmaker. The Sports line is closest to the Pro range and is characterised by functional fabrics with technical finesse. The Yacht-Club line mirrors the lifestyle of passionate yacht enthusiasts and includes classic nautical-inspired jersey and knitwear basics, preppy and sophisticated sportswear, and elegant blazers and dresses for the sun downer on deck. Last but not least, the Sailmaker range picks up work wear elements from Gaastra’s founding period; the line is defined by pea coats, coarse knitwear, washed looks, and vintage denims. The retail prices for jackets range from 199 to 399 Euros, while shirts, polo shirts, and light knitwear costs between 59 and 129 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.5. All three lines are complemented by footwear that is manufactured by a licensee. At Home on the High Seas
Gaastra sponsors numerous sailing events, is the official outfitter of various boat crews, and also sells exclusive limited event editions at regattas such as the Les Régates de Saint Barth in the Caribbean and the Cope del Rey in Mallorca. “The co-operation with Team Brunel during the last Volvo Ocean Race was a real highlight for us. Furthermore, we only recently signed a ten-year sponsorship contract with the Kieler Woche. We invite retail partners to these events and can sometimes even afford them the opportunity to accompany the racing yacht in an escort boat. This allows our partners to experience the spirit of our brand”, Oliver Frielingsdorf explains. These events are, of course, documented on social media networks and the brand’s YouTube channel.
Fresh breeze: Oliver Frielingsdorf is the new CEO at Gaastra.
showroom, as well as the design, sales, and administration departments. Gaastra is eager to keep its 100 employees happy, which is why the headquarters also boast a fitness studio, beautiful views of the water, and direct access to downtown Amsterdam. In Germany, the brand’s spirit is represented by E.F. Sportswear in its showrooms in Hamburg, Düsseldorf, and Munich. East Germany is covered by PR Fashion, a sales agency based in Berlin. Starting with the delivery of the autumn/winter 2016 collection, the Austrian and Swiss markets will be served by new distribution partners with own showrooms in Salzburg and Zurich respectively. Gaastra’s German customer list includes approximately 270 retailers such as L&T, Appelrath & Cüpper, Kastner & Öhler, Breuninger, and P&C Nord. Furthermore, the brand operates own stores in cities such as Hamburg, Leipzig, and Cologne, as well as 14 partner stores on the islands Sylt and Fehmarn, to name but two examples. In total, Gaastra is available at no less than 460 points of sale. The collection can be viewed at the following trade shows: Wear Select in London, Modefabriek Amsterdam, and Premium Order in Munich. www.gaastra.eu
To Be Near You, To Be Free…
Sailing inspiration & high recreational value - Gaastra’s new collection.
Does it surprise anyone to hear that Gaastra’s headquarters are in the West Port of Amsterdam? The building houses a large style in progress 116
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Daniele Fiesoli. LESS IS MORE
The eco-friendly production of luxury products and the sustainable use of resources are becoming increasingly existential. The Eco-Cashmere line of Daniele Fiesoli, an Italian knitwear specialist, integrates a 70 year old tradition in its production process and also safeguards jobs in its home country. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photo: Daniele Fiesoli
The history of cashmere recycling starts in the Italian city of Prato, near Florence. There, the so-called “l’cenciaioli” (English: rag collectors) still maintain the tradition of gathering used fabrics - a tradition that started after the end of World War II. These craftsmen, who are highly esteemed by their fellow countrymen, skilfully hand-sort and separate the best fabrics according to colour and type. They then crush the materials into fibres, which are subsequently recycled without using any further chemical additives and additional colorants. “The recycling of used and already dyed cashmere fibres shows how much respect we have for our environment. This process allows us to avoid the use of additional dyeing. The recycling of old cashmere fibres means we don’t have to dispose of the fabrics, which results in the saving of valuable natural resources such as water and energy. Our Eco-Cashmere utilises the industrial clippings of production facilities that process this valuable natural fibre”, founder Daniele Fiesoli explains. He adds: “How could I ignore a yarn that was created by recycling? The reuse of materials, products, and goods that we call waste 116 style in progress
nowadays is not a new discovery of the ecology movement, but an economic practice that dates back to antiquity. Rural communities tried to throw away as little as possible long before our time. Such an approach still remains a question of survival for many people across the globe.” Incomparable Price-Performance Ratio
During the first refining process, the delicate long-fibre cashmere material is offset with a small percentage (5%) of precious wool. This method allows a better reproducibility of the original colour. The Eco-Cashmere yarn is characterised by its unique softness, which is the basic element for any garment with a truly sustainable value. Whenever it comes to developing new yarns of the highest quality, Daniele Fiesoli shows special determination, sensitivity, and creativity. Delicate merino wool knitwear and high-end cashmere knitwear are the core competencies of the exclusive brand that is part of Woolgroup from Signa, near Florence. The collection does not merely consist of sporty jackets and blousons, t-shirts, wool pants, and accessories such as hats and scarves, but also of numerous different types of slim-fit cardigans and sweaters. The entire production process - from the yarn to the finished products - takes place in Italy. The retail prices - with a core price range that spans from 129 Euros for items from the NOS merino programme to 199 Euros for Eco-Cashmere sweaters - are truly unbeatable. The customer list in Germany and Austria already includes household names such as Brooks in Bielefeld, Daniels in Cologne, Konen in
Munich, Kaiser in Freiburg, Engelhorn in Mannheim, Revier4 in Frankfurt, Leo 33 in Hamburg, Norton Menswear in Vienna, Pilatus in Graz, Mode Szenario in Sölden, and Kastner & Oehler. The Daniele Fiesoli collection can be viewed in the Area Teatrino Cortile della Ghiaia of the Pitti Uomo and in hall 3 of the Premium trade show in Berlin. www.danielefiesoli.com
Recycled cashmere “Made in Italy” Daniele Fiesoli impresses with fashion sense and sustainability.
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Ten117. NEWCOMER WITH TRADITION In summer 2015, the label Ten117 made its debut in Berlin. As a jacket specialist in the premium sports segment, Ten117 strives to appeal to upscale specialist retailers. Due to excellent craftsmanship, contemporary design, and extraordinary material quality, the label stands an excellent chance of establishing itself as a major player in the exclusive outerwear segment. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Ten117
The label’s name - pronounced “Ten Eleven Seven” - was inspired by the postal code of Berlin’s “Mitte” district, which is where the design studio is located. This is where Ferhat Kartal, the head of design, and his team breathe life into the collection. Kartal lives in Munich, which means he needs to commute between the studio in Berlin and his business destinations - Paris, London, and Shanghai - on a regular basis. The constant travelling is also reflected in his designs. They are urban, casual, and uncompromising in terms of quality and processing. “We have a distinct design concept with an emotional, innovative balance. Individuality is created by casual, informal behaviour. I am inspired by the image of women on the streets
Ferhat Kartal is the head of design at Ten117.
of Paris. Their pleasantly casual nonchalance makes them appear far less loud, and yet they still always appear fashionable, stylish, and elegant”, Kartal says. The collection consists of approximately 40 styles for women and 15 models for men. The women’s line is divided into the product groups incorporating woven tops with retail prices ranging from 149 to 199 Euros and straightforward, light indoor jackets and blazers at retail prices between 249 and 349 Euros. Furthermore, Ten117 offers innovative wool coats at retail prices between 299 and 399 Euros, as well as cool leather jackets with prices ranging from 599 to 799 Euros. Lined anoraks and parkas mostly cost between 499 and 749 Euros in retail, but some particularly elaborate highlights can set you back up to 1,100 Euros. The sizes range from 34 to 44. A calculation factor of 2.7 translates into an adequate margin for retailers. The highlights of this women’s collection include, among many other items, woven tops, long vests, and kimono jackets made of torn bouclé, bonded qualities, or herringbone. Ten117 makes perfectly clear that it wants to play in a fashionable league of its own by offering clean, short biker and blouson jackets made of suede, as well as discrete blazer models with H-line and modern, reduced duffle coat variants. The colour spectrum spans from delicate English and French Rose, via Shades of Grey and French Grey, to Burgundy, Navy, Olive, and Jet-Set Black. The women’s collection is completed by a string of modern, timeless basics in classic utility and uniform looks such as soft aviator blousons, fishtail parkas with lambskin trimmings, and casual transitional jackets with removable lining. For men, Ten117 focuses exclusively on sporty premium outerwear such as monochrome
Ten117 embodies a new style consciousness that is contemporary in terms of zeitgeist and fashion trends.
trench coats and field jackets made of Paper Touch Cotton, Italian piece-dyed cotton fabric, or nylon qualities in black, navy, and olive. Whilst the majority of Ten117’s collection is manufactured in Europe, a few product groups are produced in carefully selected Chinese factories. More Than 90 Years of Product Know-How
The Ten117 brand is owned by Georg Haupt Bekleidungswerke GmbH. Founded in 1926 in Leipzig as a white coat and apron factory, the company headquarters moved to Lippstadt in North Rhine-Westphalia in 1947. In 2009, Hans-Joachim Flüchter was appointed as managing director of Haupt, which was, until then, a family-run business with approximately 50 employees. Further brands owned by the company are Haupt, Nadine H, Kitaro, Barbara Becker, and Wiesenzauber. From its base in the technology and textile hotspot of East Westphalia-Lippe, the company exports its brands to Belgium, Ireland, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Austria,
Poland, the US, Canada, and Australia. In her capacity as head of sales at Ten117, Hamburg-based Julia Jüngling co-ordinates the sales agencies and is responsible for expansion in Europe. “After establishing ourselves in the German-speaking markets during the last season, we are currently in the process of preparing to move into Scandinavia and France”, Jüngling explains. Stefan Wittmann, who is based in Düsseldorf, is the general agent for the distribution of Ten117 in Germany, while the Austrian customers are covered by Erwin Kronawettleitner’s Clothing Concept. Switzerland is served by Stefanie Beckers’ Beckers GmbH. The collection can be viewed at the Show & Order in Berlin and, during the order weeks, in the showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich. www.ten117berlin.com www.haupt-fashion.com
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A modern interpretation of the good old ski pullover.
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Pesko. JUST PESKO Just Pesko: that’s all the son of the famous sports equipment dynasty from Lenzerheide wants to be. After all, the family has taken the proverb, telling a cobbler to stick to his last, more than literally for the last 104 years. Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Nico Pesko
Nico Pesko is from Lenzerheide, a very traditional ski resort that is not as ostentatious as the resorts where the champagne flows faster than the cable cars can scale the mountains. Nico Pesko’s grandfather made his fortune in this village in the Grisons. The shoemaker of the Hungarian royal court went to Bad Ragaz, travelled to England, and then returned to Switzerland, which is when the concierge of the Grand Hotel Kurhaus summoned him to Lenzerheide. A man who is familiar with the feet of the rich and famous is, after all, perfect for a store that manufactures and adapts new-fangled skiing boots. Grandfather Pesko founded the aforementioned business in
Third generation retailer: Nico Pesko.
1911, thereby starting a success story that still relies on sensitiveness towards the customers to this day. Great-grandson Nico says: “Retail is detail, as cheesy as that may sound.” He himself was trained within the family business. He always admired his grandmother, who brought fashion to Lenzerheide to complement the store’s shoe range. Nico Pesko still remembers the style-conscious Grand Dame standing at the cash register in front of a shelf displaying identically cut cashmere sweaters in 30 different colours. He also still remembers his grandfather, a dashing ski instructor who always wore such racy sweaters. As is so often the case, one thing leads to another. Ultimately, Nico decided that he would like to try to establish his own fashion collection under his own name. Price-Performance Ratio is Vital
Honesty is paramount. Nico Pesko attaches great importance to what he calls the “made by” factor. His items are produced in
a small factory on the outskirts of Shanghai, which is run by a Swiss businesswoman. Sweaters cost between 290 and 390 Swiss Francs, while a double-face cashmere jacket sets you back 1,200 Swiss Francs. The crown prince sold his debut collection in the family’s store. “I grew up on the sales floor”, the 35 year old muses. “It always was - and still is - essential for me to get clear feedback from the customers and, when necessary, to implement changes accordingly.” He also has an open ear for the buyers. “They know their customers best”, the businessman argues. “How could I ever tell them which models they should sell in the city, the countryside, or the mountains?” His approach even allows customers to order individual colour schemes. Doesn’t that make the Nico Pesko brand a service provider? “No, it’s not like everyone can come and order whatever they feel like. The small production scale allows a modular system, which means that a specific cut can be ordered with a range of necklines or trims.” The brand currently offers 20 men’s styles and 15 women’s styles. Nico Pesko attaches great importance to consistency in terms of fit: “Life is complicated enough as it is!” He recently decided to add jeans in six colours to his repertoire: “We offer Selvedge Raw denims, which are manufactured on old Selvedge machines. Seeing that the jeans can include a percentage of wool or cashmere, they have a completely new feel. We also add a stretch element to guarantee a perfect fit.”
baby to leave the house”, Nico Pesko recalls. In Austria, Strolz, a renowned upscale retailer in Lech am Arlberg, recognised the quality of the items; the same applies to a number of boutiques in Switzerland. Incidentally, the brand only launches one collection per year in winter. Nico Pesko started testing a few items made of summer fabrics, a lighter quality of merino wool. The newlywed muses: “I have a dream. In 20 years, I want to meet a young man wearing one of my pullovers and hear him say that his father bought that sweater when he was his age many years ago.” The brand is comparatively inexpensive (“Why should we add a huge markup because of a name or an image?”) and its items have a long half-life period. Nico Pesko’s principal business remains the management of Pesko, the successful family business with 104 years of experience and inherited values. These values will be reflected in the next collection. The men’s sweaters for 2016/17 are very similar to the jumpers the grandfather wore as a ski instructor. That range is called “Ski 60s and 70s” and will be complemented by “new basics” and “carry overs”. The latter are models that were already part of previous collections. Pesko Sport AG Voa Principala 56, Lenzerheide/ Switzerland www.nicopesko.com
Reduced to Essentials
In 2014, Nico Pesko teamed up with two colleagues and opened a store in Zurich (as reported in sip 115), which also stocks his eponymous label. In the fourth year of production, Gorsuch, a ski clothing retailer with branches in Aspen, Vail, and Park City, fell in love with the Swiss brand. “That was when I allowed my style in progress 116
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Joop. IT’S COMING HOME The brand Joop and its future is currently one of the most intensively discussed topics. Thorsten Stiebing has taken the reigns to put an end to these discussions by implementing a clear strategy that focuses on Germany as Joop’s home country and strongest core market. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Joop
Mr Stiebing, do you cherish challenges?
Joop has enormous potential, enjoys an exceptionally high level of awareness, and is well-positioned in the market - all this is often underestimated. The task certainly isn’t a home run, but I accepted the job offer with pleasure, mainly because I have always liked Joop and the brand is an important element with a lot of potential within Holy Group. True, we have a brand awareness of 95 percent, high ambitions, and a strong brand image. The Joop brand still generates considerable retail revenue - not only with fashion, but also with licensed products such as bags and shoes, watches and jewellery, eyewear, and Joop Living. If we manage to channel this power in the right direction, in clear product groups and details, then we are on the right track. Joop is a brand with tremendous value - not only for us, but also for retailers. So what is the exact plan?
The plan is clear. We will get the brand back to where it belongs. One of the very first steps was moving back into the Joop Villa in Hamburg. This villa embodies Joop and is the brand’s origin - this is where Wolfgang Joop’s studio was. Your heart skips a beat when you enter 116 style in progress
the building. The cornflower is still engraved in the windows of the upper floor. Even after seven years of third-party use, the name Joop was still on the doorbell. The headline is “House of JOOP!” - this is where every aspect of the brand is united: Joop, Joop Jeans, and Joop Living. For us, the Joop Villa is a question of attitude. Joop is a premium brand, which is why I believe that our pricing strategy is right on the money. We have sharpened the brand’s profile. We are clear in terms of strategy and style. In terms of investment, we will focus on the product, there’s no discussion in that respect. We remain focused on the premium market - with our own individual touch and passion for our project. In terms of brand building in the fashion segment, Joop is our priority. Joop Jeans - with its glamorous past - will be an important factor again and enhance the brand. The concept is designed around Joop in the centre and Joop Jeans as part of the core. It is a derivative, but not a completely different collection. In terms of style and taste, Joop Jeans is inspired by Joop and will be developed further with intent. This is what we are currently working on with the design team, which is led by Gregor Langerspacher. The retail industry has missed Joop Jeans. The line was extremely successful and we plan to build on that success. The strategy has always been to pursue the approach of a global premium brand. We will definitely expand, because that’s what Joop is all about and Joop has the necessary potential to grow. In order to develop the brand
Thorsten Stiebing has developed a coherent concept for Joop; it focuses on a new beginning with Joop Jeans and – most of all – a return to the brand’s origins.
from the core, we have also taken a close look at the brand CI and substantiated it with content. The brand colour will be a deep dark blue, on which we place the Joop lettering in white - that does the premium claim justice and lends the products a certain power. Is Wolfgang Joop returning as the face of the brand also part of the plan?
His DNA is deeply embedded in the brand and he remains an important orientation factor for the future. What will the new Joop Jeans collection look like?
Joop Jeans is a complete collection. That being said, the focus is, of course, on jeans with retail prices ranging from 99 to 159 Euros. We want Joop Jeans to appeal to a wide audience and generate proportionate revenues. Joop’s women’s fashion will, for now, only be sold via the brand’s own channels?
We are currently in the process of developing a new winter 2016/17 collection with a highly motivated, fresh design team. We were inspired by a new type of Joop woman; the entire concept is based on that type. The collection will be made available in autumn 2016 and consists of approximately 100 items. Is there a specific timetable for its return to wholesale?
As a first step, we are selling the collection in our own stores and via our own channels, both nationally and internationally. We will decide whether to move into wholesale after the winter 2016/17 season. We are more vertically integrated and more focused on our own sales areas than before - this may lead to very interesting opportunities. Were there first talks with customers before the brand’s re-launch?
We presented our strategy to selected key accounts. They were
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very surprised, in the sense that the customers saw the enormous potential. They were also amazed by the short period of time we needed to develop the new concept. In terms of our retail strategy, we will reposition ourselves. When we open new stores, they have to be good enough to trigger a “wow-effect”. As a first step, we plan to focus on stores with sales areas ranging from 100 to 150 square metres and will concentrate on consistent expansion of our shop-in-shop areas. For Joop Jeans, we have a concept based on soft-shop areas and we plan to implement twenty of those per year. An important aspect is to tap into the key players in cities with approximately 100,000 inhabitants. When looking at the issues at hand with a little imagination and pragmatism, it becomes very clear where the brand belongs. We need product. The retail industry will react when it finds a brand with a strong product and excellent brand recognition at consistent prices.
for collections that are creative, communicate a clear message, and have enough power to be successful. The official launch of the new Joop brand world is expected to take place in Berlin…
Precisely. There will be an internal launch for employees and license partners in the Joop Villa in Hamburg. We will then present the new Joop universe at the Premium trade show in Berlin in January in an area of 150 square metres. This is an important signal to our German core market, which is, after all, the home of the brand. Thank you for the interview.
What does “we need product” mean? Also in the context of the ever-increasing discussion in this segment about where items are produced?
Sustainability is important to us. From my perspective, there is a huge gap in the market in the price range below the Italian, which where Joop wants to position itself. It is vital for us to back up the premium positioning with premium content. Simultaneously, the particularly strong product groups of Joop, such as sportswear, coats, and jeans, need to compete with specialists in the respective fields. We are not afraid to face that challenge, especially as the retail industry is on the lookout
The campaign for spring/summer 2016 presents Edward Wilding as the new face of Joop Menswear.
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A clear brand message combined with a focused collection - Premium and Sportswear are merged - and strong advertising imagery: Holy Fashion Group has sharpened and revised Strellson’s profile.
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Strellson. “WE ARE ONE” For many years, Strellson was a prime example of the strategic development of a company through a carefully defined and cleverly communicated brand image. In a radically changed market, even the successful businesses need to question and sharpen their positioning from time to time. “We Are One” is the banner under which the progressive menswear brand from the stable of Holy Fashion Group intends to march into the future. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Strellson
For a long time, Strellson operated within its own comfort zone, which was defined by a quite manageable competitive environment in the New Menswear segment. This is no longer the case. Ever since smaller brands started displaying provocative uniqueness, brand desirability has become the factor that tips the scales one way or the other. Thomas Jaeger, the managing brand director with a 22 year history at Strellson, summarises the motivation behind the recent deliberation and discussion process: “The industry is currently facing crucial issues that will define its future. Market mechanisms, consumer habits, and consumer expectations have changed massively. We are not content with merely participating in this change; we need to shape it actively!” Christian Mascarenhas, the new head of marketing at Strellson, is eager to deliver: “The classic dividing lines between leisure and work are just as obsolete as traditional dress occasions or conventions. We have taken an in-depth look at how the purchasing patterns of our custom-
ers have changed and also asked ourselves whether we are still capable of reaching them. Young men between 22 and 35 years of age are particularly interested in living as individuals and want to share their lifestyle with the world. However, they do not want to express themselves via a revolution and have no interest in breaking conventions. They have a desire to show individuality within the masses. Nobody wants to be a conformist, but they want to show it in a subtle way, which is made possible by style breaks. Against the background of gender discussions, we also see the desire to be a ‘man’. Men want to be modern in a social context, but without losing their male identity. This is quite essential for Strellson as a brand. The digital revolution has created an entirely new mindset among consumers. The customer now perceives himself as part of a development process, not as a mere consumer. These findings allowed us to identify many aspects that are invaluable for our corporate culture and brand.” As part of this consumer definition process, the team revised categories such as brand architecture, brand purpose, and brand mission. The result is a clear path to where Strellson wants to be. The team defined “Never Stop Beginning” as its new mantra and believes this new motto will channel Strellson’s innovative power in terms of product and communication. One Strategy - One Strellson
Strellson’s concrete answer to all the complex questions is the “We Are One” brand offensive, which was launched a year ago. It is a holistic strategy that includes the brand itself, corporate culture, communication, product development, and distribution. The
Thomas Jaeger, the managing brand director at Strellson, has been with the company for 22 years. Now he has embarked on a journey that will see the brand pursue a very different approach than in the past.
Christian Mascarenhas, the new head of marketing at Strellson, embodies the brand’s new motto “Never Stop Beginning”.
core of the strategy is an expressive main collection consisting of the previous lines Premium and Sportswear. “We believe that combining the strengths and innovative topics of both fashion lines affords us an excellent opportunity to re-focus the brand on the customer. The immediate impact on the product side is that our direction is more modern. We present capsule collections such as ‘Seven Days, Seven Pieces’ as a highlight of the main collection. In this context, we utilise seven pieces to create seven outfits. This cross-look is an integral part of our message”, Thomas Jaeger explains.
Strellson should be as easy to understand as possible for the customers. We want to return to having a pointed, unique campaign. In terms of intensity, that takes us back to our origins”, Christian Mascarenhas explains. This approach characterises the entire future appearance of the brand: new store designs, new branding, a deliberate emphasis on the Swiss heritage, and the colour red as a stylistic element and distinctive feature. Strellson has, for instance, introduced red pocket linings, red buttons, and red signature details to its new collection. Thomas Jaeger: “The great thing is that we don’t need to reinvent ourselves. It’s all there - history, product, and presence. However, it is vital to retell a great story from time to time.”
With Oomph
Strellson has decided to launch its brand offensive as of autumn/ winter 2016 and will present the results for the first time at the Pitti Uomo in January. First talks with key accounts have reassured the team that it has chosen the right approach, also in terms of the product itself. “We have always been the quiet among the loud. We’ve always had a clean design, not too playful. We want to emphasise that style by focusing our fashion lines.
www.strellson.com
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142 WHAT'S THE STORY
Brama. EVERYTHING PERFECT Take successful US brands such as J Brand, Current/ Elliott, James Perse, or The Elder Statesman and handle their European business. With Brama, Renzo Braglia has not only built a distribution network. It’s so much more. Text: Martina Müllner. Photo: Yorick Carroux
“We hand-pick the retailers with whom we want to co-operate. We could select a lot more in every European country, but that’s not how our system works”, Renzo Braglia says. He knows that much of what he says seems puzzling at first glance. On second glance, however, what he says is as logical and obvious as Brama itself. Brama was founded as a knitwear company in the 1950s. At one point the company, headquartered in the tranquil city of Modena, stopped knitting and turned its attention to successfully building the Mason’s brand and distributing it throughout Europe. The company name was created in that long-gone era: Bra(glia) and Ma(son’s). All this is history, because Renzo Braglia soon launched a much more comprehensive business. The story begins with Jeff Rudes, the co-founder of J Brand and now a close friend. In 2005, he placed the fortunes of his brand in Renzo Braglia’s capable hands. At first Jeff Rudes only asked him to cover the Italian market, but Renzo Braglia wanted more. After all, every Tom, Dick, and Harry can distribute a US brand in Italy. Where’s the challenge in that? “What we do is basically a translation of the US business into a European business language”, the Italian explains. “We strive to make Europe more understandable for US brands. Nobody really understands why we, as a seemingly unified market, speak so many different languages, have so many different fashion hotspots, so many 116 style in progress
Fashion Weeks, and so many showrooms. We leave a lasting impression when our entire team travels to New York or LA, as we do twice a year. We are often asked why we need ten people and why we don’t merely send the boss and the sales director over. A US brand simply cannot understand that we need the ten people to represent all European demands. It doesn’t have to understand that, in all honesty.” That’s right, because that US brand has Brama to take care of all its affairs. The Problem Solvers
In terms of EU/US communication, Renzo Braglia has amassed expertise like no other. But why did he decide to specialise in the US market? “Because I can’t find that kind of fashion - actually style is a much more appropriate term than fashion - in Europe. US brands have a much more pragmatic understanding of fashion. It is, above all, a system. It’s a business.” Much of the business practice that has been always conducted in the US seems like a promise of salvation for the troubled European fashion retail industry. Pre-orders half a year before delivery? Nope. Staggered delivery dates? Surely. Stock service? Same as always. There is one thing that is vital in order to run a business as complex as Brama’s with the nonchalance of Renzo Braglia: a system. With a team of 80 people, 45 based in Modena and the rest spread out over all major European metropolises, Braglia has created a machine that hums like clockwork. The headquarters in Modena is home “to today’s possibly most important people: planners. We have a planner for the stock. It’s his job to plan the optimal inventory levels in advance. In order to do his job he needs a lot of experience, but - most importantly - the feedback from the sales staff in the various countries. This is an incredibly complex task”, Renzo
Braglia explains. “Of course we also have a financial planner. We buy Dollars a year in advance to ensure that the prices are not influenced by currency fluctuations.” The more details Renzo Braglia reveals about the Brama system, the more one begins to understand that nothing - absolutely nothing - is left to chance. On the contrary, the pragmatism of the US fashion industry that impresses Renzo Braglia so much has rubbed off to a certain extent. “I really don’t understand why the European collections have to change completely every season. That’s certifiably crazy. J Brand has one style and that style has remained the same since we started co-operating. In Europe, that would be impossible. One button would have been shifted two centimetres down, while another would have been moved two centimetres up - in a different way every season. I like this American system. 50% of the collection pieces remain the same from one delivery date to the next, while the other 50% displays topicality. That’s more than enough, I’d say. Who is truly capable of reinventing the world every six months?” Renzo Braglia has immunised Brama against madness of this kind. His next step is to focus on eliminating other follies. One example is the fact that European fabrics - subject to duty payments - are sent to the US, where they are processed and then - subject to more duty payments - sent back to be sold here. “We are pursuing the development of a European production with all due deliberateness and care, because the high-end positioning of our brands leaves no margin for error. Denim is a particularly sensitive field. Only a few companies worldwide can handle the manufacturing of premium denim. Everything must be considered carefully. A different level of water hardness in the washing process results in a different finish. Hard to believe,
right?” Braglia refuses to specify a timeframe for when some of the brands he represents will be able to produce in Europe. His answer: “When everything is in place.” The same applies to the project closest to Renzo Braglia’s heart: his own high-quality knitted sweater brand. “Back to the roots”, he laughs. His motto in this respect: Con calma. “I am, at the least, in the US every six weeks. I just bought an apartment in Paris, because I’m there so often. I very rarely fly less than five times a week. That’s one side of my business. The other side is that I’m married and have two children. There must be room for that part of my life too.”
Brama, headquartered in Modena, is responsible for the European business of the brands Current/ Elliott, Doma, Enzo Costa, Equipment, Isapera, James Perse, J Brand, Mother, Norma Kamali, and The Elder Statesman. Brama has its own showrooms in Paris, London, Milan, Madrid, Copenhagen, Antwerp, and Düsseldorf. In spring 2016, Brama will open a showroom in Munich. In addition to all matters relating to distribution, Brama also handles PR and marketing for the labels in Europe.
Renzo Braglia admires the correctness of Germans and the pragmatism of US-Americans. Nevertheless, the mastermind behind Brama cannot deny his Italian roots.
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144 WHAT'S THE STORY
Positive blues: the Denim Blue line is the brand’s core element.
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WHAT'S THE STORY 145
Liu Jo. MISS WONDER The Italian brand made the first step by establishing a branch in Germany. However, the local demands forced Liu Jo to question its own approach. What’s the outcome? The label has defined a clear focus. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Liu Jo
Jeans made for women contemporary fashion ranging from sporty to party fit. It seems as if one couldn’t go wrong with the product range of Liu Jo. In Italy, the brand from Carpi near Modena is one of the biggest names in the industry. In 2014, Liu Jo SpA generated a turnover of 302 million Euros, of which 40% was generated with exports. The brand hired Jörg Korfhage, a man with an immense wealth of experience, as their country manager for Germany. Due to his experience, Jörg Korfhage is fully aware that Liu Jo is unlike any task he has faced before. Seven different lines, 1,800 to 2,000 collection pieces, numerous delivery dates, a complete look ranging from bags to jeans the brand’s product range is truly extravagant. While this may be Liu Jo’s strength in Italy, it is a real challenge in terms of export. “We spent a lot of time asking ourselves what the strengths of the brand are. The result of the long deliberation process is that the brand’s positioning in Germany needs to focus on the jeans segment.” Bottom Up
Does this come as a surprise? Not at all, to be honest. Everything that has made Liu Jo successful revolves around the jeans topic: the Italianitá in terms of styling, the feminine cuts, and the sexiness despite withdrawn looks. One is tempted to say that only Italians can come up with such a stringent concept. At the same time, one is inclined to ask what the Italians can’t do. “Precisely”, laughs Jörg Korfhage, who has been hired as
country manager to guide Liu Jo’s German self-discovery process. The good thing is that Liu Jo’s management has now understood that the German clock ticks a little differently. “Now we have to focus on implementing changes accordingly”, Jörg Korfhage adds. Said and done. At the Premium trade show in Berlin, Liu Jo presented itself leaner and meaner. “Everything revolves around the Blue Denim line. This new positioning was not conjured up out of thin air, but is a hard-hitting reality in terms of sales. The Liu Jo jeans make our German customers happy and are our most important revenue pillar.” The high fashion content remains and renders an invitation to two customer groups: the luxury customer who seeks a price base and the female customer who has escaped the mass market and is now seeking diversification in terms of fashion. This new clarity now needs to be communicated with adequate marketing power. Marco Marchi, the CEO of Liu Jo, explains his strategy in an interview with style in progress.
growth outside Italy. In these DACH markets, Liu Jo is already sold in the main premium boutiques and department stores, but our goal is to develop a specific approach to these markets in terms of product development, pricing, and supply chain in order to meet the specific needs of customers and consumers.
What are your plans for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland?
Do you prefer Liu Jo to be a wholesale business or are you planning to open own stores?
Liu Jo recently approved a new business plan for the DACH markets, with a specific approach in terms of marketing actions and investments, focusing increasingly on these markets as drivers of future company Liu Jo was initially founded as a company specialising in producing knitwear for other brands. The Marchi brothers own the business to this day. The company, which has 630 employees, generated a turnover of 302 million Euros in fiscal 2014. Liu Jo currently serves 450 points of sale and 5,000 multi-brand customers in 50 countries on three continents. In the DACH region, Liu Jo focuses its trade show presentations on two collections: Blue Denim and White Label. The latter is a more athletic range of clothing. The two collections can be viewed at the Premium trade show. www.liujo.com
What are Liu Jo’s core strengths and core products?
Liu Jo core products in these markets are jeans and bags, which is why Liu Jo decided to focus even more on these categories with the launch of the new Blue Denim Collection for the A/W 16/17 season. It is a collection that revolves exclusively around the denim topic: pants, shirts, skirts, jackets, and jumpsuits. The key product of this collection will be the new Bottom Up Amazing Fit, an item that combines all of Liu Jo’s expert design with the revolutionary Isko Blue Skin technology, for a fit that hugs the silhouette in sleek, sexy shapes to produce an unprecedented mind-blowing effect. It’s a veritable second skin made of a fabric that doesn’t lose its shape.
Liu Jo is already listed in premium boutiques and department stores and during 2016 we will implement actions to increase the brand presence in multibrand stores and to strengthen our collaboration with the main department stores, including Liu Jo corner openings. In addition, we are evaluating a new premium location for a flagship store in Germany. What is the key to success in Italy, your home market?
In his capacity as international CEO of Liu Jo, Marco Marchi is responsible for the company’s destiny.
dynamic way we respond to market demands. The creative philosophy of Liu Jo is devoted to the enhancement of natural femininity and the beauty of every woman. It’s expressed through a style that is refined, glamorous and is always open to individual interpretations. The Liu Jo lifestyle offers to the world a universe of elegantly feminine style, which is quintessentially Italian. How do you react to the special needs of the German-speaking markets?
Liu Jo is fully aware of the importance of satisfying the needs of German and European customers in terms of service, delivery dates, margin, retail-prices, and products. Therefore Liu Jo is investing heavily in improving the complete supply-chain, which we believe will be one of the key drivers of the brand’s future growth.
I think our strength is the constant supervision of the company DNA. The consistency of the brand and the focus of the mission define our identity precisely. Another - probably equally important aspect - might be the quality of action and the style in progress 116
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FASHION 147
Come January, we all start to wonder about the new, the proven, and the innovative. Just in time for the start of the autumn/ winter 2016/17 order season, we offer a promising prospect of the most influential topics of the season. style in progress 116
148 FASHION
Mel Nienaber, Marlino: “As a child of the 1970s, the fashion of that decade has always captivated me. The wild and revolutionary rock & roll attitude of that era inspires me constantly. However, my ideas are not exclusively focused on this particular topic, but merely circle around it and hint at it, thus leaving sufficient leeway for the individual interpretations of the wearers. Depending on with which outfit you combine, let’s say, a lambskin coat, it can look very refined. However, the same coat can also compliment a hippie look when combined with a floor-length skirt.”
Ten117
Sophia Bitter, CMO at Airfield: “Airfield’s autumn/ winter 2016/17 collection pays homage to the style icons of the 70s, such as Ali McGraw and Farah Fawcett. This has created a casual, sporty look with a touch of upscale hippie feeling.” 116 style in progress
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Modern Boho The 1970s look, which complemented the Boho look playfully with fringed details and crochet elements during the spring/ summer season, will be significantly more restrained in autumn/winter. The focus is on waisted Shearling coats and jackets, wool capes, bow blouses, and turtlenecks. All the aforementioned items team up with slim-fit flared trousers to define a clean casual look.
Minimum
Burberry
Odd Molly
Frieda & Freddies New York Drykorn
Cinque
Marlino
Milestone
Bloom
Airfield
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150 FASHION
Alberto Woman
Marco Lanowy, managing director of Alberto: “The creative studios of Alberto have been toying with different designs and materials, as well as tinkering with various cuts, shapes, and functions, for more than 90 years. We don’t limit ourselves to a single shape, mainly because trousers in all variations are our passion and expertise. As a specialist for precisely engineered cuts, we are happy about all new fashion trends, because we are renowned for reacting to customer needs both flexibly and sensitively. Most importantly, every new trend allows us to prove our skill and creative potential in terms of trouser manufacturing once again.” 116 style in progress
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Flared Flair Culottes remain omnipresent in the autumn/winter season. Voluminous cuts, such as Palazzo and Marlene trousers in maxi lengths, continue to dominate the fashion collections. While the summer culottes were made of cotton and light fabrics, the culottes for next season are mostly made of denim material. This gives the trousers a sportier streetwear character.
Calvin Klein Collection
Marc O’Polo
Strenesse
Current Elliott
Belstaff
Blue Fire Co.
Windsor
Ralph Lauren
Marc Cain
Escada
Set
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152 FASHION
Simona Barbieri, founder and creative director of Twin Set - Simona Barbieri: “The opening of the season is focused on a proposal for ‘dall’appeal’ autumn colours - muted, yet accentuated by black as a background. The floral prints are made of Georgette and knitted materials, softening shades of pink and green.”
Minimum
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FASHION 153
The Power of Flowers Flower Power without any hippie throwbacks - this is where extroverted patterns meet minimalist silhouettes. The stylish all-over prints and large-scale floral designs are a perfect match for classic blouses and coats made of Teddy or Faux Fur. Clear cuts paired with eye-catching blossom motifs create a truly classy look. This is probably the most colourful trend of the autumn/winter season.
Windsor
Lucky de Luca
Closed
Michael Kors Collection
Comma
Bogner
Twin-Set
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154 FASHION
Thommy Hilfiger Tailored
Andreas Schimon, product manager at CG - Club of Gents: “The focus is on slimfit suits, often with a waistcoat, but also interpreted in a more sporty fashion with patched pockets. Tapered-fit trousers and pleats create new cuts. The silhouettes remain slender, while soft and round shoulders dominate the overall look. The lapels are, in some cases, a little more voluminous than before. Pure S120 wool from Italy, supplied by Barberi and Cerutti, as well as woven diamond and honeycomb patterns by Marzotto, upgrade the collection even more.�
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Modern Tailoring The ready-to-wear aspect is once again at the forefront of many collections, but with new influences. The waistcoat is no longer merely a part of the style, but can make a fashion statement in its own right. The fit remains slim, but casual; the materials are more varied than before. Classic cuts made of high-quality new wool in herringbone patterns and tweed are just as important as sporty jackets and jogging pants in elegant wool qualities and supple jersey materials. They act as a style break in contrast to the strict business look.
Carl Gross Black Line
Marc O‘Polo
CG Club Of Gents
Luis Trenker
Dornschild
Lardini
Strellson
Alpha Studio
Joop
Floris van Bommel
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156 FASHION
Meindl
Björn Gericke, founder of G-LAB: “In all areas of life, we rely on innovation and high-tech. Why should we not include those aspects in our clothing?” André Berger, CEO Handstich: “The motto of our autumn/ winter 2016 collection is ‘no season’. This means that the collection also includes pieces that are, in the context of a winter season, lighter and more timeless than before. We focus on a material mix of uniformly dyed leather, nylon, and wool qualities with small details in the lining and contrasting lock-stitch seams.” 116 style in progress
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Material Mix Different materials, one hue - the material mix for autumn/winter 2016/17 is a monotone colour theme. On the one hand in an all-over look from head to toe, where coarse woollen fabrics are combined with flowing materials to create a sporty look, on the other hand in a mix of various material surfaces in a uniform hue. In winter, the outerwear is mostly processed in combinations of leather, nylon, and neoprene. The wintry colours range from earthy and warm brown tones, over grey and anthracite, to styles in pure black.
G-Lab
Blaumax
Woolrich
Mountain Force
Marlino
P448
Parajumpers
Handstich
Bosideng
Candice Cooper
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Barb’one
Valentino de Luca, founder and designer of Barb’one and Lucky de Luca: “We believe that jeans are at the forefront this season! Barb’one display the entire spectrum in terms of looks and fits - all in the highest quality possible. Edgy patches and used looks - but also clean models with softer washes - are at the centre of menswear in tapered fits, while the women’s segment focuses on boyfriend and skinny jeans. Naturally, all our items are manufactured exclusively in Italy.”
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Forever Denim This season, the streetwear classic returns to a more opulent look. Patches and “used effects” are just as important as patchwork elements and extravagant washes. The women’s fashion segment focuses on perfect fits. Due to innovative, highly elastic stretch fabrics, the modelling effect comes hand in hand with excellent wearing comfort. This makes looks ranging from casual to glamorous possible.
Diesel
Cream
Alberto
Nudie Jeans
Closed
Joop
Liu Jo
Hilfiger Denim
Guess
Gaastra
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160 FASHION
American Vintage
Martina Schmidl, wholesale director for Germany & Austria at American Vintage: “Speed is very important to American Vintage. The fact that 70% of our production processes take place in Europe ensure short distances, which, in turn, means that we can react to the needs of stationary retailers and e-commerce companies extremely quickly. The spring/ summer 2016 collection focuses on easy-to-wear styles such as oversize tshirts, knitwear, dresses, and culottes in flowing qualities like silk, Cupro, and high-end viscose, as well as linen and cotton. An additional flash collection (with delivery dates in April/May) complements the summer collection with high-summer pieces in new styles and fresh colours.�
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To the Point The recipe for a successful repeat order or the quick deal based on fast trends: powdery and berry-like colours, soft-wash look, cuddly summer cashmere, wide-fit trousers, and suede accessories.
Onomato
Heldmann
Philo-Sofie
Catwalk Junkie
Souve
Zwei
Comptoir des Cotonniers
B Belt
Warm-Me
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162 IN STORE
Lena Terlutter is, in her capacity as stylist and fashion blogger, the figurehead of the overall concept. The items she promotes via social media are sold in her stationary stores.
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IN STORE 163
Fashion Pilgrimage Site. BB Loves/Cologne Lena Terlutter and her husband, Leonhard Dobroshi, manage four stores which don’t only cause girls’ hearts to skip a beat. BB Loves, their newest project, offers an appealing mix of interior design and fashion, which complements the overall concept perfectly. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Bina Terré/inlovebybina.com
As a stylist, Lena Terlutter travels frequently. In her capacity as a renowned fashion expert, she appears on TV on channels such as RTL and Pro Sieben, as well as in commercials for Clarisonic and L’Oréal. She also posts her impressions, fashion discoveries, and travel tips on Facebook or Pinterest on a daily basis. On Instagram alone she has more than 185,000 followers. We can count ourselves lucky that her look can be bought: in four stores located in the trendy Belgian Quarter of Cologne. Hipsters, Bloggers, and Elderly Ladies
The success story started in 2007, when Lena Terlutter’s husband, Leonhard Dobroshi, opened Salon Sahnestück in Flandrische Strasse. Three years later, encouraged by their success, the couple decided to open Boutique Belgique as a concept store in Brabanter Strasse - a mere three-minute walk from Salon Sahnestück. The Super Store followed in 2012. The latest project, BB Loves, was opened right next to fashion-oriented Boutique Belgique in 2014. The product ranges of both stores complement each other. If you find an item of interest in the rather cramped Boutique Belgique, it’s easy enough to nip next door and wander into one of the four spacious changing rooms in BB Loves. While you’re at it, take a look around and check out the newest develop-
ments in interior design and fashion. BB Loves is a dream come true for girls. The dominant colour is pink, which is combined with grey walls, wood elements, roségold clothes rails, plush pink fur, and Barbie chairs. The interior design of all stores can be described as Scandinavian-clean, but without coming across as too detached. In terms of interior design items, the product range is dominated by the Danish brand Bloomingville. The store showcases pillows and furs, letter mugs, postcards, and framed posters with cool sayings. In addition, BB Loves offers knitted pullovers in powder shades by Maison Scotch and carefully selected items by relatively small French labels. It is an individual mix with a price structure to suit all budgets. “We sell more than just clothes; we sell an entire lifestyle”, Lena Terlutter explains. “Our customers are young girls, businesswomen, hipsters, bloggers, and elderly ladies, as well as men who, while looking for presents for their girlfriends, end up buying a cool hat or a pair of sunglasses for themselves.”
BB Loves is Lena Terlutter’s newest store. She has designed all her stores herself in a Scandinavian and cool style, but has, quite consciously, added a hint of DIY.
BB Loves
Personal Shopper Service
Although the four stores benefit greatly from Terlutter’s online presence - what is posted is often sold out on the same day - there is no online store. However, there is a special personal shopping service. If you send your wishes in an e-mail, the items
will be delivered to your doorstep. “This service is booming. Our clients appreciate it greatly”, Terlutter explains. “We receive orders daily and virtually none of the orders are returned.”
Brabanter Str. 27 & 29, 50672 Cologne/Germany www.boutique-belgique.de Opening: June 2014 Owner/managing director: Lena Terlutter Employees: 5 Sales area: 60 sqm Fashion brands: among others Vila, Le Specs, Maison Scotch Accessories/interior design brands: among others Bloomingville, Jute, Mrs Wonderful
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164 IN STORE
Fashion First. Fashion Fifty-6/Saarbrücken. Romy and Max Schoenberg have sufficiently proven their expertise in terms of footwear in their Fifty-6 shops. Their new store, Fashion Fifty-6, proves that they are equally at home in the fashion world. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Fashion Fifty-6
Focus on fashion before focusing on shoes. The Fifty-6 shoe shops were based on the aforementioned approach right from the start. Romy Schoenberg, who is the buyer, has always opted for gaining a comprehensive overview of the newest trends at international fashion shows before selecting shoes to match those trends. It was therefore only logical to complement the overall concept by adding a fashion store for women in 2008. Make the People Happy
All the shops run by Romy and her husband, Max Schoenberg,
are located in Saarbrücken’s pedestrian zone off St. Johanner Markt. They complement each other’s products range and build on each other. The oldest of the four shoe stores was opened more than 30 years ago. This gives an indication of how good the Schoenbergs are at what they do, especially in times when shoe retailers are under a lot of pressure. In terms of strategy for the women’s fashion store, Romy Schoenberg remains true to her initial motto: “Make the people happy”. Her sense for trends is an essential element of her success. She also harbours a lot of passion for her chosen
Romy Schoenberg, the owner of Fashion Fifty-6, operates four shoe shops and two fashion stores in Saarbrücken together with her husband, Max Schoenberg.
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profession. “Everyone can buy from us, we want to make everyone happy”, Romy Schoenberg says. While an older customer may seek leather trousers by Utzon to combine with a sweater by 81 Hours Cashmere, her granddaughter is after a pair of jeans by Closed to combine with a blouse by Custommade, complemented by a knitted coat and a hat by Hat Attack. The style is casual and sincere; there is always a surprising combination option in stock. The outfit approach and quality are paramount for Romy Schoenberg. She doesn’t base her decisions on short-term trends. Romy Schoenberg doesn’t shy away from basing a product range on fairly unknown brands that can’t be found in many other stores, thereby evading common comparability. Her taste can be described as Mediterranean and Francophile, but she is also open to typical Scandinavian elements in terms of colours, shapes, and trends. Max and Romy Schoenberg travel three months per half year. All brands are put to the test every season, which means that they introduce quite a lot of new brands on a regular basis. “I want my product range to consist of products that make my customers more beautiful, not merely of products that sell well”, she explains her approach. Last but not least, the store’s atmosphere is dedicated to making the customers feel welcome and at home at all times. For example, an older lady will not be advised by a very young saleswoman, but by an assistant who can advise her at eye-level and make her feel understood. Personal service is a top priority;
shoes to match an outfit will, of course, be brought in from the other stores to enable customers to see the full picture in the mirror. 140 square metres of the store are dedicated to fashion, while an additional 70 square metres are reserved for changing rooms that resemble a classic boudoir. The clientele appreciates the generosity in terms of space, especially the children and men who are willing to wait even more patiently than they usually would. “If you want to operate a good store today, you need three things: the perfect shop, the perfect product range, and perfect service”, Romy Schoenberg explains. “In the past, it might have been sufficient to tick one of those three boxes, but today all three factors need to come together. There is no other way to be successful.”
Fashion Fifty-6 Bahnhofstrasse 10, 66111 Saarbrücken/Germany www.fifty-6.eu Opening: August 2008 Owners and managing directors: Romy Schoenberg, Max Schoenberg, Franz Tinnacher Employees: 6 Sales area: 200 sqm Brands: Among others 81 Hours, Anni Carlson, Bazar de Luxe, Better Rich, Bloom, Brasi & Brasi, Cambio, Closed, Custommade, Day, Essentiel Antwerp, Hugenberg, Johnny Was LA, Kudibal, Please, Munthe, Rude Riders, Steffen Schraut, Vila Gallo Accessories brands: Among others Altea, Chiara Ferragni, Gaterina Lucchi, Gianni Chiarinni, Headless, Plomo o Plata
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At Fashion Fifty-6, a welcoming atmosphere is of paramount importance. The focus lies on brands that cannot be obtained everywhere; this strategy is pursued for the shoe and fashion stores alike.
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Manhattan’s Little Italy of Fashion. Carson Street Clothiers/New York The store exudes masculinity without losing itself in clichés. Two former lawyers - who do not only share exquisite taste, but also a rather unusual hobby - have entered the fashion industry successfully. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Carson Street Clothiers
Bravado - this single word characterises the style of Carson Street Clothiers. The term positions itself somewhere between bravery and boastfulness, dresses a mixture of daredevil and bully, and is - disregarding the word’s origin - definitely Italian in this store. “Italians are loud and proud”, says Brian Trunzo while highlighting what’s so special about Italian menswear. “And we”, the son of an immigrant from Calabria continues, “have the manufacturing know-how to make the world’s most aspirational, creative, and beautiful garments.” This passion for fine materials and the willingness to take a small risk are not only reflected in Carson Street’s Italian men’s brands. Alongside Missoni and Barena, one can also find brands such as Greg Lauren and Jil Sander. Furthermore, the store has always had its own private label. “We believed that, in order to set ourselves apart from other retailers, we would need to hone our point of view with our own product”, Trunzo says. Fashion Consciousness Seeks Kindred Spirits
The ubiquitous US crude brick wall is daubed in white at Carson Street. Coarse wood is lacquered, while industrial metal has been mounted subtly with bolts. This is not a nostalgic Americana, but a place that breathes fashion consciousness and attracts kindred 116 style in progress
venture. At that time, Trunzo also maintained his hobby on the side: his “Nice Try, Bro” blog. In this blog, he mocked fashion blunders pointedly. “If something was deserving of having fun pointed at in my old blog, well, it just didn’t deserve to be on the shelves of our store (and vice versa)”, he says in retrospect. From Snappy Blogger to Store Owner with Bravado
From hedge fund lawyers to shop keepers - Brian Trunzo dresses lawyers and other office goers in style.
spirits. Therefore it comes as no surprise that one will often see people discussing fashion issues in the sitting area with magazines and books. Some customers can be spotted waiting for their measurements to be taken with beer in hand. The store not only offers ready-made fashion; alterations are free of charge (as is the beer, by the way). Nothing in this store yells out “Experience!”, but a visit turns into one all the same. This is, however, not a coincidence. “I went from being a hedge fund lawyer to owning a retail store”, Trunzo explains. He met Matt Breen at law school and the two soon started thinking about a joint business
His scathing comments are how he made valuable contacts: “If I took pictures of myself wearing garbage products given to me for free by awful contemporary brands while holding ice cream cones and jumping off street curbs, then I’m sure I would never have developed a serious platform off of which I could attempt to establish a business.” Trunzo has moved on from the world of blogs. That was long ago and today he dismisses it as a mere hobby. Nevertheless, the intransigence of the past defines the store concept. As an entrepreneur, he sees more clearly what can mislead a fashion enthusiast online: the filter bubble. “Not everything you see in the ‘blogosphere’ has mass appeal”, he warns. Countless insiders may rave about a niche product, but it will ultimately only be appreciated by like-minded people. “What appeals to the upper echelon of society might not translate into sales in a retail
operation that is open to the masses.” Such findings do not detract from the aforementioned bravado. For instance, the store’s website displays the current weather conditions. “We figure that anyone visiting our site will eventually set it as the homepage and thus would want to the see the weather first thing in the morning.”
Carson Street Clothiers 63 Crosby St., New York, NY 10012 Telephone +1 212 925 2627 www.carsonstreetclothiers.com Opening: March 2013 Owners: Matt Breen, Brian Trunzo Employees: 8 Sales area: 185 sqm (2,000 square feet) Brands for men: Massimo Alba, AMI, Jil Sander, Greg Lauren, Lemaire, Tomas Maier, Missoni, Visvim, and others Accessories brands: Blind Barber, Joya Studio, Lovat and Green, Mismo, Saphir, and others Shoe brands: Number 288, Visvim, Want Les Essentiels de la Vie, and others
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Carson Street Clothiers is defined by elegantly pepped up industrial chic. A lounge corner ensures that the store is a meeting point for kindred spirits.
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A large-scale remodelling to celebrate its 50th anniversary - Lรถsekann highlights its leading role in Bielefeld.
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Family Business. Lösekann/Bielefeld In the East Westphalian city of Bielefeld, one name embodies the owner-managed fashion retail sector like no other - Lösekann. For more than 50 years, the family and its team have been actively shaping the changes in the textile industry. The business celebrated its anniversary with a remodelling project. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Lösekann
In 1965, Irmgard and Hans-Georg Lösekann opened their first store, thereby laying the foundations for a group that is still the leading fashion and textile lifestyle specialist in Bielefeld. The Lösekanns put their heart and soul into establishing a string of stores in different locations across the city. For the last 50 years, the fashion specialists have always relied upon the force of change and their belief in the only constant in the retail sector: change. In today’s flagship store, located in the pedestrian zone of the Old Town, the first floor houses a special department for tailor-made suits which was established in 2005. When the store re-opened, this department was integrated into the store concept as an open tailoring studio. Especially in times of uniformity and anonymity, Lösekann focuses on individual advice, customer relations, and approachability. Passion, daily commitment, and an exclusive product range are prerequisites for becoming the customers’ “partner of the heart”. These aren’t mere lip services either. This is, for example, proven by the guestbook on the company’s website. Countless clients have shared the experiences they made with their purchases and the company’s employees. The many stories, photos, and anecdotes in the more than 100page book published to celebrate
Lösekann’s anniversary are more proof of the intimate relationship with its customers. Human Element
André Lösekann, the founders’ son, took over the day-to-day business in 2010 when he was named managing director. He himself has supplied Bielefeld with denim, sportswear, skateboard clothing, street wear, and urban wear with his stores Brooks and Ozone for more than 25 years. The operational merger of the stores was the only logical and progressive step towards more efficiency in terms of human resources, purchasing, logistics, and administration. Furthermore, it also multiplies the company’s know-how regarding fashion and e-commerce. The Lösekann family has always attached great importance to offering its staff stability, security, and a familial community with development perspectives, and this will continue to be their policy in the future. “Our concept is an innovative talent pool for young, purposeful employees, in which they can discover their personal strengths and develop their individual skills. The strategic alignment benefits the most important differentiator in our competitive environment: the employee. Our in-house academy does not only train our staff well and ensure that they are always up-to-date in
Family tradition - mother Irmgard pictured with André, her son, and HansGeorg, her husband.
terms of product knowledge, but also affords them sufficient leeway in terms of creativity and diverse development opportunities in our various store concepts. In turn, this leads to a high degree of motivation and job satisfaction.” Lösekann is not willing to compromise in anything relating to the development opportunities of his employees: “We strive to promote everyone’s individual personality and skill set. Nobody is perfect, but together every problem can be solved.” In this respect, the entrepreneur believes that values such as a sense of responsibility, respect, appreciation, kindness, openness, and fairness should be at the heart of concerted action.
Lösekann Owner: André Lösekann Employees: 18 Re-opening after remodelling: November 2015 Sales area: 520 sqm Brands for women: Adriano Goldschmied, Allude, Burberry, Closed, Current Elliott, Fabiana Filippi, Mabrun, Marc Jacobs, Moncler, Mother, Patrizia Pepe, Robert Friedman, Tagliatore Brands for men: Baldessarini, Bäumler, Boglioli, Caliban, Giorgio Armani, Herno, Hugo, Jacob Cohen, John Smedley, Moncler, Paul Smith, Polo Ralph Lauren, Scabal, Tagliatore, Tonello
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Ski out. Strolz am Rüfiplatz/Lech Strolz, a family business in the classic sense of the term, has enjoyed success for three generations, mainly because it has never shied away from facing contemporary challenges head on. This is proven once again by Strolz am Rüfiplatz, the company’s new concept store. Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Alex Kaiser
In Lech, Strolz is already an institution. Ambros Strolz senior laid the foundations for the family business in 1921 by opening a workshop for leather boots, which, even back then, he managed to sell internationally. The second generation expanded the shoemaker business by adding fashion and sports equipment to the company’s repertoire. The third generation is currently expanding both business segments with considerable success. Under the capable leadership of Hannes Strolz, the business hand-crafts approximately 10,000 pairs of Strolz ski boots per year, of which 3,000 are sold in own stores. The remaining 7,000 pairs are exported worldwide. The fashion and sport segment, run by Ambros Strolz and managing director Stefan Maierhofer, is certainly not afraid of change. The latest project involved Stuff, Strolz’s snowboard shop. “It is an inno-
vative concept with the slogan ‘Industrial Design Meets Alpine Feeling’. The concept is a mixture of free riding and snowboarding with sales and depot, rental, catering, and a ski museum”, Ambros Strolz explains. Ski-Out on Rüfikopf
The store that was initially run on a sales area of 120 square metres, has now been expanded to a whopping 780 square metres. The entrance area is occupied by the gastronomy section, from where the visitors can look down upon the sports segment and the textile department one level further down. The access to “Club Archiv”, which has to remain open at night, was a real challenge in terms of construction. The result: mountain landscapes and golden mirroring lead partygoers into the club. Speaking of access: the rental department has direct access to the Rüfikopf
Strolz am Rüfiplatz is a place where Alpine and urban lifestyles meet. 116 style in progress
cable car, which means customers can head straight up the mountain - perfect for snow-hungry mountain enthusiasts. The industrial aspect is represented by stone-grey concrete plaster, smoked oak, black iron, and specially manufactured industrial lamps. The Arlberg has room for such new concepts, mainly because the region has always had a very suave approach to skiing. In this spirit, young restaurateur Christian Weiß doesn’t serve pea soup in his café-bar “Baristo”, but green smoothies and wraps made from local ingredients. “What we have realised here is also a reflection of Lech itself. The younger generation in our family and the children of our regular customers have a completely different lifestyle. They are much more laid-back and always preferred to hang out in our snowboard shop. Condensing this lifestyle of sport, freedom, and nature and turning it into a comprehensive concept is the logical response to the zeitgeist”, Ambros Strolz says with pride. This means: art in the form of an installation by Daniel-Nikolaus Kocher, a comprehensive textile range, and sufficient room for film screenings and pro community programmes. It goes without saying that the new concept store boasts in-depth expertise in terms of hardware, leisurewear, and lifestyle accessories. Only one question remains. Is this still a sports store or the home of a certain lifestyle?
Ambros Strolz is a proud representative of the family business’ third generation.
Strolz am Rüfiplatz Rüfiplatz, 6764 Lech am Arlberg/Austria www.strolz.at Re-opening: 5th of December 2015 Employees: 10 in sales and rental department, 6 in gastronomy area Total area: 780 sqm Sales area: 600 sqm Brands: among others Armada, Boom Bap, Burton, E11 - State of Elevenate, Hurley, Maloja, Ortovox, Peak Performance, Roxy, Scott, Volcom, Zimtstern Accessories brands: among others Airhole, Barts, Dana Beanies, Dedicated, Epic, Gang, Herschel, Mint, One Piece, Sionyx, Stance Hardware brands: among others Atomic, Burton, Carrera, Dakine, GoPro, Jones, K2, Oakley, Red Bull Racing
iron, conINBlack STORE 171 crete plaster, and large industrial lamps dominate the premises.
Café-bar “Baristo” closes a gastronomic gap in Lech.
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Simple, sophisticated, and calm: materials such as solid cherry wood and brass underline the modern look.
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Farewell Throwaway Culture. Selekteur/Düsseldorf Felix Staeudinger’s company, Panorama Europe, distributes many brands which he also sells via his online store Selekteur. com. The declared aim is to exclusively offer high-end, soulful products that don’t need to be binned after one season. Now Staeudinger has opened his own store in Düsseldorf’s inner city. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Schwitzke GmbH
Shortly before Christmas, Greenpeace published a survey that examines how we buy clothing. Kirsten Brodde, a textile expert at Greenpeace, summarises the conclusion as follows: “Fashion has degenerated into a disposable item and is just as short-lived as plastic bags or disposable tableware.” This throw-away mentality has a detrimental effect on our environment and health. As it were, the living antithesis of this mentality opened its doors to the public shortly before Christmas: Selekteur. The Selekteur team and CEO Felix Staeudinger strive to establish long-lasting products with character in the retail industry. The focus is on products that the consumers would not want to separate with so quickly. The location for this undertaking could hardly be more fitting. Selekteur is located in the premises of the former Tapken Paint Store (Hohe Strasse 6), in the midst of Düsseldorf ’s Carstadt district, surrounded by delicatessen stores and other specialised retailers. One of the finest markets of the region, located on Carlsplatz, is only a few metres away. The area is full of life six days a week. The interior and the furnishing of the 120 square metre store were designed by Zurich-based Atelier Schumacher & Staeudinger. The implementation and supervision of the renovation work was supervised by
Düsseldorf-based shop fitting experts Büro Schwitzke & Partner. Don’t Buy Crap
The shop window displays the quite provocative motto of the store in neon letters: “Life is awesome. Don’t buy crap.” The product range is focused on traditional brands that produce their items almost exclusively at long-established manufactories within Europe or - in some cases - in the US and Japan. “This approach guarantees short production routes coupled with high standards. Special care in terms of production can be taken for granted”, Felix Staeudinger explains and adds: “We offer timeless classics that never go out of fashion and have been an indispensable part of our modern life since the 1950s.” Selekteur Store Hohe Strasse 6 40213 Düsseldorf/Germany www.selekteur.com Owner: Felix Staeudinger Store manager: Ilka Leissler Employees: 5 Opening: 27th of November 2015 Sales area: 120 sqm Brands for women, men, and children: Menil, Orcival, Schott NYC Accessories brands: Caran D’Ache, Dr. Bronner, Kaweco, MHL Studio, Naseweiss, Otter, Pendleton, Riess, Sabatier, Tolix, Tweedmill
In addition to high-end clothing for women, men, and children by Schott NYC, Menil, and Orcival, the store also stocks carefully selected accessories by MHL-Studio and beauty products by Dr. Bronner, as well as collectibles such as knives by Otter, kitchen items by Riess and Sabatier, stationery by Caran D’Ache and Kaweco, smaller furniture items by Tolix, exclusive home textiles by Pendleton and Tweedmill, and - last but not least - especially child-friendly toys by Naseweiss. “We evaluated all products very closely before we opened and only listed items of which we are completely convinced in terms of quality and appearance. We adjust our product range on a seasonal basis and constantly complement it by adding new products that are
Just like in the grocery stores of old: Selekteur employees wear aprons. Felix Staeudinger, the founder, and Ilka Leissler, the store manager, are no exception.
defined by traditional craftsmanship, authenticity, and an unmistakable style. Life is too beautiful for bad products”, Staeudinger summarises.
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Style with Profile. Linnerth/Vienna Linnerth is the embodiment of a keen sense for good taste and a clear vision in terms of men’s fashion. The exclusive haberdasher celebrated its comeback in autumn 2015. Old strengths and new virtues… Text: Julia Dossi. Photos: Linnerth
Style cannot be bought, or so they say. Those who are familiar with Linnerth, an exclusive haberdasher in Vienna’s city centre, would most probably disagree. The tradition-steeped company’s new location is generously spaced, bright, and inviting. After the initial flagship store on Lugeck closed its doors in March 2015, Linnerth celebrated the grand opening of its new store in Walfischgasse in October this year. The new location is - for want of a better term - as 1st district as the 1st district can get. The store is just a few steps away from the State Opera House and Hotel Sacher. Everything New, Yet Still Unchanged
Spread out over approximately 250 square metres, the store, which was designed by architect Iris Zopf in a purist and luxurious manner, presents a product range characterised by discreet luxury for men. The fine sale tables made of Brazilian marble, whose panels are carved from a single slab, are custom-made. “Due to their sheer weight, they are literally theft-proof ”, Dietlieb-Georg Linnerth, the founder, smiles. The business has not only remained true to its wide range of exquisite, mainly Italian men’s fashion, but also to its systemic expertise and fullrange service at the high level we have become accustomed to. Hand kiss, dear customers! Into the Future with Tradition
Almost 40 years ago, DietliebGeorg Linnerth embarked on an adventure that was to define 116 style in progress
his life. His journey took him from a lowly retail apprentice in a department store in Laa an der Thaya to the managing director of the “House of Gentlemen”. In 1976, he founded his own business. Relying on his keen sense for exceptional quality, he introduced (then) unknown brands such as Armani and Zegna to Vienna. “We were the exclusive retailer for Armani for approximately 20 years; we also were the first Boglioli customer in Austria”, Linnerth explains. The tradition-steeped business has many other milestones on its CV: large-scale fashion shows, the early support for local hero Helmut Lang… But let’s return to the present. Brands such as Gabriele Pasini, Boglioli, Pal Zileri, Cantarelli, and Windsor are complemented by matching accessories and shoes. It goes without saying that the store also offers tailor services. Customers can choose from fabrics by Zegna, Cerutti, Loro Piana, and many more. Business
suits are manufactured in co-operation with Luciano Manfredi, a Neapolitan men’s tailor. Customers can determine every single detail, from the lower collar to the buttons and lining with an optional monogram. Regular customers appreciate the personal commitment and excellent advice. The in-house tailor studio and 24h service, as well as home, hotel, and office services, have made Linnerth irreplaceable. Here, discretion is a matter of honour, no matter whether you are a politician, a manager, or a famous actor.
40 years of retail experience - Dietlieb-Georg Linnerth started as an apprentice and is now a dedicated business owner.
Linnerth Walfischgasse 8, 1010 Vienna www.linnerth.com Opening: 21st of October 2015 Owners: Dietlieb-Georg Linnerth (founder), Christian Köpf (managing director) Sales area: 220 sqm Employees: 3 Brands: Artico, Boglioli, Cantarelli, Cruciani, Eton, Gabriele Pasini, Gimo’s, Gita, Jacob Cohen, Hevo, LAB, Lucia Roda, Pal Zileri, PT01, Truzzi
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Many stores in Vienna’s 1st district show off. The new Linnerth store proves that showing some style pays off.
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176 EDITOR'S LETTER /// ABOUT US
Simple Truths
Nick Wooster is virtually a prototype of the massive change that has ripped through all components of the fashion industry due to digitalisation and social media. Despite his impressive and multifaceted professional biography, he is primarily known to the general public as a street style icon. While he may, at times, even find this slightly amusing himself, this popularity is what determines his market value and influence. Speaking to style in progress, Nick Wooster, who enjoys toying with the fact that he comes from a small village in Kansas despite being a global phenomenon, spells out some seemingly simple truths. I’d like to focus on a particularly important point he makes: “You have got to be interested in something new, otherwise you are going to be a terrible buyer!” This is a very blunt critique of a development that has become increasingly evident in recent years: supposed safety-mindedness instead of courage to innovate product ranges, Excel lists that ultimately only document past success instead of openness for change, and thus for the future. In an increasingly complex market with an increasingly demanding competitive environment, the process of procurement and product range development has, without doubt, become significantly more challenging. Moreover, recent negative sales developments which consequently also affected the yields of the retail industry - often caused market participants to limit their willingness to take risks. “Avoid mistakes at all costs” was probably the common approach of late. The new and the as yet unknown - in short: items that haven’t yet been tested or perceived by the mass market - were too often seen as a dangerous source of errors. All this is quite understandable from a rational point of view. But where has this order strategy led us in recent years? Has it led us to more exciting product ranges that trigger desire among consumers? Or has it merely led us to “more of the same”, even fuller warehouses, and an increasing boredom among those who we want to inspire and win over as buying customers? Regular readers know that I have a penchant for comparison. So let me draw from the wisdom of football once more. When a team is trailing in 116 style in progress
the middle of the 2nd half of a knockout match, should it defend that deficit or push forward courageously to try and equalise? Well, there you have it! I maintain that this is exactly what Nick Wooster meant with his simple truth I quoted earlier. Curiosity is always a prerequisite for courage. This is why curiosity, the desire for change, and a genuine interest in the product should be the guiding principles. From this approach, one needs to deduce the following questions: “Does this product suit me and my customers? And can I earn money with it on a regular basis?” After all, these are also simple truths! Furthermore, these truths are a completely different, critical approach than asking oneself: “Can I return this to my supplier and charge a cardboard disposal participation?” Yours, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at
Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott
Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Isabel Faiss Julia Dossi Petrina Engelke Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Verena Roidl Nicoletta Schaper Quynh Tran Dörte Welti Photographers Yorick Carroux Clemens Kois Illustrator Claudia Meitert Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach
Next issue 26 April 2016
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