style in progress 2.14 EN

winter 14/15

# 2.2014

New Life. How City Centres Become Crowd Magnets Again /// Clear Words. style in progress Speaks to Remo Ruffini, Philippe Olivier Burger, and Helmut Schlotterer /// Very Good Rather Than Very New. The Trends F/W 2014/15

style in progress

"The Throwaway Mentality is Repulsive!" Li Edelkoort

â‚Ź 6.90

Her Favourites WWW.MARC-O-POLO.COM

FOLLOW yOuR nAtuRe

FOLLOWPEPE

W W W. 0 0 3 9 I TA LY- S H O P. C O M

BERLIN · MÜNCHEN · DÜSSELDORF · HAMBURG · STUTTGART

006 editorial

Human Attraction

Welcome to these lines.

It's quite clear. Anyone who could launch a product with a 100% sales guarantee into the market would have a real winner on their hands. After all, who wouldn't stock an item that comes along with a guarantee that someone will buy it? Is it, however, right to focus everything on saleability? Lidewij - often called Li - Edelkoort, a trend expert, publicist, and lecturer, reveals that she doesn't enjoy shopping in style in progress' Longview (from page 050).

One of the reasons for this is that so many stores offer the same products. "That makes it difficult to choose, mainly because one never sees anything new", says a woman who has learned like no other to filter and analyse. We are all on the lookout for truly new things. No matter whether we wander through trade shows style in progress reports live from Pitti Immagine Uomo (from page 090), Bread & Butter, Premium, Show & Order, and Panorama (“The Bear Dances” from page 012) - or whether we leave a fashion stores laden with bags, we may have purchased a good feeling, but did we really purchase something new?

Who do we expect that from?

From entrepreneurs like Remo Ruffini ("If you're too modern, you age sooner", from page 086), who - while speaking to style in progress - says about his top collection Moncler Gamme Rouge: "Freedom beyond saleability is an absolute must. That's what inspires fashion collections." The successful IPO of the company has not affected this policy. Just like laudable examples before his time, the school dropout and self-made millionaire is adamant to uphold one thing: quality.

The same maxim applies to many other protagonists in this issue.

Marc Cain's Helmut Schlotterer ("The Opportunity of Being Different", from page 082) tells Stephan Huber why Kant's categorical imperative can be the successful guiding principle for fashion entrepreneurs. The concepts of online stores on both sides of the Atlantic may be less historic and less philosophical, but they are definitely no less pioneering in terms of replacing personal customer advice. Petrina Engelke did some research for us ("News from the Online Trade", from page 072). Nevertheless, we still strongly believe that online stores will always fail to touch us the same way as so many excellent examples in this issue of style in progress (“In Store”, from page 114). Whether in Waldkirchen in Bavaria or in downtown New York, the human component is still the most important factor.

Enjoy your read!

Your style in progress team

Cover Photo: Ruy Teixeira

214 style in progress

WIR SIND EIN BERLINER. —BREAD & BUTTER, Berlin

BREADANDBUTTER.COM THANK YOU FOR BEING A BERLINER. SEE YOU THIS SUMMER.

008 CONTENT

050

The Longview 050 “Shopping Needs to Change” style in progress speaks to trend guru Lidewij Edelkoort

What’s the story 056 New Life Düsseldorf, Frankfurt upon Main, and Munich – examples of flourishing inner city quarters 066 “We Occupy a Niche” The jeans brand Blue Fire defines its fashion market positioning 067 For Living Legends A Swiss sports brand treads new paths: Nabholz 056

068 Game, Set, Match Everybody knows the villa in Düsseldorf’s “Kaiserswerther Strasse”; its tenant is MAB Modeagentur Benabou 070 Above the Clouds Shoes with high fashion standards as a basis for success: Highline United Europe 072 News from the Online Trade How service works in the web

The Talk 078 Under One Roof Ph. Olivier Burger has streamlined his company’s brand portfolio 082 The Opportunity of Being Different Marc Cain owner Helmut Schlotterer on selling from a VW bus and succession plans 072

214 style in progress

086 “If You’re Too Modern, You Age Sooner” Moncler’s mastermind Remo Ruffini explains his IPO

010 CONTENT

098

Fashion 090 A Mix of the Proven and the New: The Season’s Trends 098 Another Side of…

106 Parisienne

in store 114 Shoe Premieres Like at the Movies Extra Butter/New York 116 Tradition with Future Garhammer/Waldkirchen 118 Fashion With Room to Breathe Kleidoskop/Frankfurt

106

120 Strictly for Men Barber & Butcher/Munich 122 The Embodiment of Service Rigby & Peller/Munich 124 Not Raw, But Mature Milk/Munich 126 Pretty Well Chosen Eclectic/Zurich 128 Luxury with Passion Bella Donna/Regensburg 130 When Personal Shoppers Open Stores 25 Park/New York

128

214 style in progress

STANDARDS 006 EDITORIAL 012 RIGHT NOW 034 WANT IT! 132 EDITOR’S LETTER/about us

MÜNCHEN_MAXIMILIANSTRAßE 27 KEITUM/SYLT_C.-P.-HANSEN-ALLEE 1 SPORTSWEAR COMPANY GERMANY GMBH _ +49 (0)89 35892730 44031 MIX FIBRE PANAMA WATRO HOODED JACKET IN MIX FIBRE PANAMA WATRO, A PANAMA WEAVED FABRIC MADE BY WEAVING LINEN YARNS WITH COTTON, NYLON AND POLYESTER YARNS. IT HAS BEEN RESIN TREATED INSIDE TO ACHIEVE MILD WIND AND WATER RESISTANCE. THE MULTI-TONE COLOUR EFFECT, WHICH ENHANCES THE STRUCTURE OF THE FABRIC’S TEXTURE, HAS BEEN ACHIEVED THROUGH A DOUBLE DYE RECIPE WHICH RESPECTS THE NATURAL COLOUR OF THE POLYESTER FIBRES. THE ADDITION OF A SPECIAL AGENT TO THE DYE FORMULA MAKES THE PIECE ANTI-DROP. DIAGONAL POCKETS WITH ZIP FASTENING AS WELL AS FLAP AND SNAP FASTENING. STRETCH INNER CUFFS. HOOD WITH VISOR. ZIP FASTENING EDGED WITH COTTON TAPE AND BUTTONS. WWW.STONEISLAND.COM

012 RIGHT NOW berlin

Heading for

New

The 30th Bread & Butter trade show was the last one for professional visitors only. From the upcoming summer onwards, the show will be extended by two additional days for consumers. The plan is to transform the former airport into a colourful and noisy Fashion & Lifestyle Festival with live broadcasts from the football World Cup in Brazil, concerts, and other events. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Nils Krüger, Bread & Butter

Shores

Henrik Soller, owner of Komet und Helden "The idea is still comparatively fresh and there is certainly still a lot to talk about in terms of implementation. In principle, I think it is good and correct to consider the future and alignment of the trade show. If all trade shows were like this one, where one can already call it a success on the afternoon of the second day, then one really doesn't have to make any changes. The brands that we present at the Bread & Butter tell me that this is the best trade show."

Marco Götz, owner of Drykorn "The development of the Bread & Butter trade show is exciting and brings new challenges for all of us.

Karl-Heinz Müller has initiated many innovations over the years and we in general - see the term extension positively, because it offers something good to customers. We are hoping for assistance from the Bread & Butter team regarding the implementation."

214 style in progress

bread & butter

RIGHT NOW berlin 013

Karl-Heinz Müller, founder of Bread & Butter "The trade show industry and the market demands of brands such as Superdry, Nike, GStar, Adidas, and many others have changed dramatically.

We want to incorporate the consumer into the Bread & Butter in order to continue our support of independent specialised retailers. We need to wake the customers' enthusiasm to buy something new. Our website and social media activities are targeted at supplying the consumer with direct and genuine information that sends them into the stores. The Bread & Butter is an excellent tool to create a connection between brands, the press, buyers, and consumers."

Thomas Jäger, managing brand director at Strellson "The development of the Bread & Butter is very interesting and the implementation offers a lot of potential for making brands more tangible for consumers. I think it's positive that the Bread & Butter wants to develop further and has an eye on the future. It is important for us that the costs and efforts are in the right proportion to the result, that the implementation of the new concept is feasible, and that the audience is sufficiently international."

Robert Stöckl, regional vice president EMEA at Lacoste Footwear "Opening the Bread & Butter to consumers will be a highly interesting test and nobody really knows what the outcome will be. We have already started doing our homework and are working on presentation concepts for the media, retailers, and consumers. We are hoping for a direct feedback regarding the products we will put on display.

We see the additional cost as a good marketing investment and hope that the general-interest press will be included in the run-up to the event."

Ilya Morgan, owner of Deluxe Distribution "We are very curious about the new alignment and believe that Minimum can make another leap forward as a result of it. We have an especially large fan base in Berlin and hope that a strong presence of the brand can give the public a better understanding of it and increase awareness. Of course we also trust the traditional strengths of the Bread & Butter trade show and we have an open-minded approach to the new concept."

On Tuesday afternoon, trade show general manager Karl-Heinz Müller presented the new Bread & Butter concept for summer 2014 in front of more than 400 exhibitors, retailers, and journalists.

style in progress 214

014 RIGHT NOW berlin

Kleidermanufaktur Habsburg's Hubert Stolzlechner presented his collection in a winter landscape with artificial icicles and snow.

However, his mood was anything but frosty: "We had excellent customer contacts from day one. The right people were here."

Stipan Majic only recently took over the distribution of the denim brand Earnest Sewn and exhibited at the Show & Order trade fair for the very first time. He believes it's the place to be: "Verena did a great job and has developed an excellent concept."

Harald Heldmann paid a flying visit to his cashmere collection Made in Heaven at the stand of Celine Klauser: "I think this is a great event. It's well attended, yet not overcrowded. It has a qualitative and selective programme, which is excellent for professional visitors."

show & order

Relaxed Cherry Picking Show & Order focuses on a good atmosphere and product variety. 250 exhibitors in the fully booked "Kraftwerk" location present a good product range mix to their visitors.

Text: Ina Kรถhler. Photos: Bernhard Musil

Verena Malta, the general manager of the Show & Order trade show, created an independent concept for accessories in a separate space: "It was a success from day one and I am very content."

Camouflage can not only be found on the Porsche classic, but also on a pullover. The cashmere brand FTC is back at a trade show after a two year break. Chief executive Andreas Knezovic: "It is very beautiful here; it's exactly how we imagined it to be."

214 style in progress

Ilona von Preuschen founded her label Zebratod, which up until now focused on knitted accessories made of merino wool, in 2006 and made her first appearance at the Show & Order. This season, she added beautiful coarse and fine knit pullovers to her repertoire; they are mostly produced in Germany.

Simone Jรถrend (left) and Antonia Jacobsen represented the purchasing division of the Classico stores. "One can find a lot of new input here. It is small, cosy, and offers an excellent working environment. One can find a lot of inspiration against a very special backdrop.

We are still on the lookout for accessories, parkas, and cashmere items."

RIGHT NOW berlin 015

Guiding Principle The Premium is tidier and more organised than ever: new access points, a new guidance system, and an updated exhibition hall plan. The Premium has come of age and increased its internationality both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. Text: Martina M체llner. Photos: Bernhard Musil

David Hirschh채user, sales manager of Deyk and Kai Timpe, managing director of Deyk "We are happy to be here. After all, it is our first trade show participation following two years of preparation with retail partners", says Kai Timpe. "One is a little nervous before the show, even if one has a lot of experience", David Hirschh채user explains.

Andreas Steindl, CEO of Mabrun and Lodenfrey 1842 "The Premium is the most important trade show for retailers in German-speaking countries, which is why it is important that we have a showcase there. Lodenfrey 1842 is presenting itself to the market for the first time.

It's important that it happens here and separately from our brand Mabrun."

premium berlin

Markus Funder, product manager at Better Rich "This season will be great because we are great! That's something we work on with our customers every day. I am glad that there is no discussion about a consumer day here at the Premium, because something like that simply doesn't make sense for our industry."

Cristina Paulon, sales manager of Parajumpers "We have invested more this year, mainly in a kind of showroom at the trade show to give our collection - certainly the best and most complete we've ever had - the necessary space. We received positive feedback from day one and we have the feeling the trade show is increasingly international."

Valentino de Luca, owner of Lucky de Luca "It is pretty simple. If you supply well, serve your existing customers well, and do your business well, then a trade show will always be successful. I like this year's stricter gate policy, because it draws upscale clients to the Premium. Opening the doors to consumers is nonsense that I cannot comprehend."

Michael Schreittmiller, Agentur Schreittmiller "I hope that the search for innovations will result in an increased order volume. The retailers let reason get the better of them last season, but we need more heart and gut decisions, which are the only way to get some drive into the stores and some variety into the product ranges."

style in progress 214

016 RIGHT NOW berlin

Shopping mall

panorama

And Hotel lobby The third Panorama trade show presents itself well staged and well attended. The event has learned from its early mistakes. The visitor is now guided through all three halls, from the shopping mall for store concepts to the exclusively designed hotel lobby for special collections.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Bernhard Musil

Gerard Ruiz, brand manager at Sand "We have attracted both traders from the large fashion houses and the small cool stores, which is a great mix", Gerard Ruiz states with enthusiasm.

"Many people who saw us in Florence have visited us again here; the same applies to many of those who visited us here last season. We feel very positive."

Peter Konietzko, division brand manager at Arqueonautas "We are here for the first time and we feel we are in good hands, especially due to the possibility to display a huge photo on the back wall", Peter Konietzko explains. "In terms of our collection, we worked on reducing the detail level a little with tone-in-tone stitching and less patches. We have had very positive feedback in that respect."

Marco Lanowy, managing partner at Alberto "I had a lot of fun with the customers", Marco Lanowy says with a smile. "We are receiving great feedback now that we have decided to join the Panorama.

Visitors should approach a trade show with an inquisitive mindset and open for talks, which is exactly how the retailers have approached us here."

Sven Mutschler, director of sales at DOB Milestone "Our brand celebrates its 20th anniversary this year and we will certainly honour this jubilee in a special manner. We have developed well as a jacket specialist; the retail industry perceives us as a competent partner." Milestone was among the first brands to present itself at the Panorama trade show, which makes Mutschler a little proud. "This is the trade show for mid-market brands, which are ultimately the collections that earn the most money."

214 style in progress

Stefanie Gruber, sales manager at Sportalm "Sportalm is a jewel with a very strong USP, namely a collection that is rich in detail and consequently requires complex consultation", says Stefanie Gruber. The brand presented its store concept and attracted many potential customers from day one. "We are on a roll", Stefanie Gruber rejoices.

handstich.de

018 RIGHT NOW

RIGHT NOW

Chris Sports

It’s Running!

Chris Sports, the importer of - among other brands - New Balance for the Germanspeaking markets, is highly satisfied with the performance of the US running shoe classic.

The heritage and performance lines are being distributed separately in all markets in order to reach their full potential. The model market Austria proves just how successful this strategy is. The fashion-savvy agency room with a view managed to get New Balance into all top stores of the local specialised fashion retail trade. The performance line is in the capable hands of Chris Sports employee Herbert Maier, who has established own structures with a showroom in Salzburg for this purpose. His goal is to find and inspire partners in the sports equipment retail industry who see the niche brand as a chance to give their product ranges more independence. These efforts are supported by a collection that is both optically and technically demanding, which is - despite new materials such as Fresh Foam - also tempting for the fashion colleagues. After all, they look damn good. www.chrissports.eu

Daks

Across the Generations

The British tailoring brand Daks, founded in London in 1936, still embodies the values of old: clothing of the highest quality paired with exceptional customer service. To honour its 120th anniversary, the brand has come up with a special treat for the presentation of its spring/summer 2014 collection.

It organised a high fashion shoot with the fashion-conscious duo Paul and Leah Weller in December 2013. Father and daughter, rock star and model – each successful in their own right and a well-functioning team that embodies the elegance and British chic of the collection. 22-year-old Leah sees her father as both a role model and a source of inspiration. She admires his style and plans to follow in his musical footsteps. They represent two generations that share a love for fashion and music, which makes them the perfect choice to represent the long-standing tradition of Daks. www.daks.com

New Balance offers performance models that are also sought-after by the fashion industry.

Duvetica

Mini Me

Now children can also enjoy the Duvetica quality that is so popular among adults.

The test run in the own online store and the shops in Kitzbühel and Courmayeur lasted two seasons, but now it is time for the big stage. For the autumn/winter season of 2014/15, Duvetica has decided to present its children’s collection in showrooms and via agents for the first time. Avid Duvetica fans in Italy, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France, the Benelux countries, Eastern Europe, and Japan will have the opportunity to treat their children to smaller models of the world-famous down jackets. Just like the models for adults, the jackets for boys and girls are produced by Duvetica Industrie SpA, which guarantees highest quality standards and the use of real grey goose down feathers. The colourful and lively collection is targeted at upscale children’s fashion retailers. Many models are designed as reversible jackets, which means they are easily changeable - perfect for children. www.duvetica.com

214 style in progress

Fashion shooting with Paul and Leah Weller for the spring/summer collection of the British label Daks.

RIGHT NOW 019

Tommy Hilfiger

Digital Düsseldorf

Since autumn 2013 Düsseldorf has a new Tommy Hilfiger flagship store. The size of the shop located in “Schadowstrasse” has nearly doubled to more than 1,800 square metres and now houses the entire product range of the brand. The company has focused its new store on digital networking. Wireless LAN Internet is available throughout the whole shop. Customers are led through the collection by sales assistants connected via tablets on a large screen and piece together their desired outfits. The grand opening was accompanied by a blogger event and an extensive social media campaign. Tommy Hilfiger has more than 1,200 stores around the globe, including seven flagship stores in cities such as New York, Paris, London, Tokyo, and Los Angeles. The parent company of Tommy Hilfiger is PVH Corporation, one of the largest fashion conglomerates worldwide. www.tommy.com

Living it large - the new Tommy Hilfiger store in Düsseldorf’s “Schadowstrasse”.

St.Emile is now 80% owned by Rena Lange Holding, which is managed

by Rudigier and Partner Group. The photo shows Siegmund and Claudia Rudigier.

St.Emile

New Owner Bomboogie

Upwards

The Italian outerwear specialist Bomboogie is enjoying constant growth; increasing sales figures result in higher order volumes. This sets the brand apart from many of its direct competitors.

The recently introduced children’s collection has entered the market with confidence and is already available at many top stores in Germany. Bomboogie managed to transfer its proven concept of offering high quality at mid-range prices to the children’s segment. The brand is willing to experiment in the 2014/15 autumn/winter season. One of the absolute must-haves is a military look parka made of nylon satin, which is available with either down or artificial fur lining. Prints freshen up the jacket collection, both on the inside and the outside. www.bomboogie.it Digital prints give the down jacket a brand new look.

The cat was let out of the bag at the beginning of November 2013. Rena Lange Holding, a company that is part of Rudigier and Partner Group, announced the acquisition of St.Emile. The deal involved the takeover of an 80% stake in Josef Reis GmbH & Co. KG, while the remaining 20% stake is retained by Uwe Jürdens. “St.Emile tempted us because it is a brand that has a clear positioning in the premium segment and is an excellent fit for the Rena Lange brand that we acquired a year ago,” Siegmund Rudigier explains. The group of investors, which also owns the brands Mabrun, Gloriette, and Q1, had been eyeing St.Emile for quite a few years. “Our business strategy is to focus on targets that are not in need of financial restructuring. We focus - at best - on targets that may need brand-related restructuring.

This means we look at brands that are healthy and solid, but, for example, still have huge internationalisation potential.” This is the plan for the next few years. Know-how from the group will synergistically assist the existing management team, which has agreed to stay on board. “Rena Lange, for instance, has an excellent distribution network in the US, which we certainly want to use for St.Emile too”, Siegmund Rudigier reveals. In addition, there are plans to expand the range of accessories. Existing partners in traditional markets do not have to fear any changes. “Of course we will continue and even intensify the co-operations with existing specialised retailers. They will also profit from the fact that the takeover will strengthen the brand and lead to further marketing investments.” The brand plans to additionally invest in own retail stores, especially when entering new markets. Meanwhile, Siegmund Rudigier rules out further acquisitions in the course of 2014. “It is a tempting time with enticing offers, but we need to manage our strength and resources, which is why I believe we will this year solely focus on operational work for the companies we took over in 2012 and 2013.” www.rudigierpartners.com

style in progress 214

020 RIGHT NOW

Airfield

Gentle Rejuvenation Process

A more modern and visibly younger appearance - that was the aim of Austrian fashion label Airfield. The marketing department started the gradual rejuvenation process of the established brand two years ago to reach new target groups. They have been highly successful. The new customer magazine is very popular and there have also been changes in the online and ecommerce departments, which re-launched the website and started a fan page on Facebook.

This enables younger customers to access special offers, information from the fashion world, and insights into the fashion house itself. The new collection of the brand is equally cool and modern. Airfield sports a fresh look with extravagant details, but always remains faithful to its strategy and its unmistakeable style - both online and offline. www.airfield.com

A step in the right direction – Lacoste Footwear has a new sales team for the German market.

The Austrian fashion label Airfield has given itself a visibly younger appearance.

Lacoste

A New Distribution Team for Germany

The lifestyle brand Lacoste Footwear, which will celebrate its 80th anniversary this year, has three changes to its sales team to announce – one promotion and two new appointments.

Marcel Eiberger, who previously worked in the sports equipment retail industry and at Breuninger in Stuttgart, is responsible for all distribution agendas in Baden-Württemberg since the beginning of the year. Christoph Jantz is the sales representative for Berlin and the East German federal states. He gained valuable sales experience as a district manager at Cecil GmbH and as department head at Peek & Cloppenburg KG. He succeeds Daniel Woche, who will – in his new role as key account manager – be co-responsible for national growth and the support of the most significant customers. The goals of this new team headed by sales director Stefan Böing are the expansion of Lacoste Footwear’s distribution activities in Germany and to supply each customer with the best support possible. www.lacoste.com

Better Rich

Constant Growth

Warehousing services and swift collection updates are the strengths of Better Rich.

214 style in progress

What’s new at Better Rich? The casual wear label is known for its T-shirts, polo shirts, hooded jackets, and sweatshirts with simple shapes and finest non-colours that are clearly reminiscent of American sports such as baseball and football. Since July 2013, Birgitta Zöller is the agent for the German federal states Hessen, Rhineland-Palatinate, and Saarland. An excellent new service for customers is the possibility to reorder goods online via the B2C portal. Approximately 20,000 items in stock can be accessed with the customer number. The brand new 3,500 square metre distribution centre in Bocholt complements the new customer service perfectly. Furthermore, the brand further expanded its knitwear range. It now offers four collections that are strongly linked to the four seasons. The label offers fashionable updates every three months. This strategy has convinced both retailers and consumers, which is why Better Rich is enjoying a constant highlevel growth rate. www.better-rich.com

Magdalena erzherzogin von Ă–sterreich Prinz PhiliPP von thurn und taxis

www.habsburg.co.at

022 RIGHT NOW

Superga

New Distribution Setup

Innovation leader – Wrangler focuses on denim with additional benefits.

In the spring of 2013, Adventure Modeagentur GmbH acquired the license for the Turin-based cult shoe label Superga in Austria and Germany. Since January 2014, the brand distribution has been revamped too. Adventure Modeagentur took over almost the entire former distribution team of Converse. The brand wants to focus on specialised shoe retailers and the fashion segment in the future. The company has already rejuvenated and repositioned its tradition-steeped footwear under the slogan “People’s Shoe of Italy”. Collaborations with the likes of English it-girl Alexa Chung, artist Rita Ora, and blogger Chiara Ferragni from “The Blonde Salad” introduced the brand to the broad public. www.superga.com

The Italian brand Superga stands for varied colours and unusual designs.

Now it has enhanced its distribution power.

Wrangler

Product Offensive

Wrangler is launching a string of new denim-related products in the coming season.

“Live in Denim” is the new platform for women who love classic denim, but still want modern features. Shape-keeper models retain their shapes, even after they have been worn extensively. This is especially important for skinny shaped items. Silk Soft is a new stretch finish that utilises silk proteins. Last but not least, the term Denim Spa describes jeans with an argan oil finish that supplies the skin with moisture. “We have created a new generation of denim for women”, says Adam Kakembo, the vice president of product development & marketing. There’s no lack of innovations for men either. Wrangler wove the hollow fibre Thermolite into its denim fabric to create incredibly warm winter jeans that are breathable without losing the feel and look of an authentic pair of jeans. The Performance Line is now in its third season of offering a selection of water and oil resistant finishes that are not only used for jeans, but also for jackets and coats. www.wrangler.com

"We have created a new generation of denim for women."

Adam Kakembo, Vice President Product & Marketing Wrangler

Marc Cain

Expanded Retail Strategy

164 stores, 275 shop-in-stores, and more than 941 retail areas in upscale fashion retailers in 59 countries - the label Marc Cain, which has a revenue volume of 223 million Euros, has been highly successful on an international level in 2012. Nevertheless, the company never stops honing its retail strategy. The most recent example for this is the opening of a new franchise store in Freiburg in co-operation with the fashion house Kaiser, a long term trading partner. “We’ve been available at Kaiser for many years now. This co-operation with one of the leading fashion houses in Europe is an important project for us. We are looking forward to continuing our trusting and successful co-operation in the new store”, says Norbert Lock, who is the head of the distribution division. The fashion lines by Marc Cain Collections and Marc Cain Sports have found a perfect stage on the 160 square metres of elegantly designed retail space. www.marc-cain.com

214 style in progress

The new franchise store in Freiburg deepens the partnership of Marc Cain and the fashion house Kaiser.

The Denim that

KEEPS YOU DRY Wrangler Denim Performance presents Water Repellent jeans. These special denims keep out the elements thanks to a durable resin treatment that acts as an invisible shield.

WRangleR-euRoPe.com

024 RIGHT NOW

Munichfashion Company

New Position

Brand Development and Communications – this is the newly created position that fashion trade show organiser Munichfashion Company GmbH has so competently filled with the appointment of Mirjam Dietz. Her tasks include the support of strategic alignment, as well as the expansion of all marketing and communication activities. In her new capacity she will – both thematically and geographically – work together closely with Friederike Hegemann, the head of PR and marketing. The shared office in Düsseldorf’s B1 will unite the press, marketing, and communication units under one roof. Alongside chief executives Hartmut Schade and Corina Klippel, Dietz will also be responsible for the rental activities concerning the three floors in the B1 building. The main focus is on further in-house trade events by The Supreme Group, which is the umbrella brand for the various events organised by Munichfashion Company. However, the temporary rental of space for in-house exhibitions, road shows, and presentations is becoming increasingly important. www.munichfashioncompany.de A well-known face in a new position: Mirjam Dietz is now responsible for brand development and communications at Munichfashion Company.

Maglificio Furlan’s owners, Sandra and Sergio Furlan, want to retain the style of Kathleen Madden’s advertising campaigns.

René Lezard

Online Re-launch

A classic zeitgeist is one of the core values of the international premium fashion brand René Lezard. However, the meaning of the term classic is evolving constantly, both in terms of collections and the online presence. After introducing a B2B platform in October 2013, the brand had yet another change in store in December. This time it re-launched its entire web presence. René Lezard did not only redesign and enhance its brand site, but also the entire online store. The customer can now enjoy a new layout with product and outfit images alongside current information and deep insights into the world of René Lezard. The new site does not only introduce topics and inspirations from within the design team, but also individual employees. Special offers and competitions make a visit even more rewarding for the customers. www.rene-lezard.com

Kathleen Madden

The online presence of René Lezard is sparkling anew since December 2013.

In time for its 25th anniversary this year, the brand Kathleen Madden, which is famous for its legendary advertising campaigns, finds itself with the backing of new owners, namely the family-owned Italian company Maglificio Furlan from Padua. With this acquisition, Sergio and Sandra Furlan, who are the second generation to run the production company, aim to expand the brand portfolio of Maglificio Furlan and want to promote the internationalisation of the brand Kathleen Madden. While the priority markets are Russia, Poland, Korea, and China, the plan also includes strengthening its position on the European home market. The brand’s roots will not be touched: the design team based in the Swiss city of Zug remains in place and the DNA of the brand remains unchanged. The latter is mostly based on advertising campaigns with star photographers such as Helmut Newton and Peter Lindbergh, as well as top models such as Linda Evangelista, Nadja Auermann, and Cindy Crawford.

The sophisticated black and white motifs of these campaigns rewrote fashion photography history on numerous occasions. www.kathleen-madden.com

214 style in progress

Anniversary with New Owners

026 RIGHT NOW

Drykorn

Capsule Collection with Bungalow

Drykorn likes limited editions. The brand has developed a capsule collection together with the Stuttgart-based premium multi-brand store Bungalow that consists of 20 items each for men and women. The collection is exclusively available at Bungalow, in Drykorn’s own stores, and via the respective online shops of the two brands. The collection combines the typical Drykorn handwriting with Bungalow’s sense for exclusivity. Form-fitting leather trousers, feminine blouses, semi-standardised trench coats, and slim fit suits are made of finest materials such as Napa leather or pure silk with technical qualities. There’s more than enough luxury appeal for everyone! Another highlight is the printed T-shirts line that was created together with the English illustrator Katie Halil from whatkatiedrew.com. www.drykorn.com, www.bungalow-gallery.com

BGLXDK is the abbreviation for the exclusive capsule collection that was born out of a collaboration between Bungalow and Drykorn.

Mabrun

New Management - Usual Success

“We are currently experiencing the best thing that can happen to a brand: recommendations.

Due to the excellent sales figures of our collection, the retailers are recommending it to their peers”, says Andreas Steindl, who rejoined the Italian brand as a managing partner half a year ago. The Italian home market remains “challenging”, but the Bassano del Grappa-based subsidiary of the Rudigier and Partner Group is generating stable growth in its export markets. The team is particularly enthusiastic about the new brand Lodenfrey 1842, which will start off with a women’s collection in autumn/winter 2014/15 Mabrun’s and will add a collection for men one season distinctive handwriting later. This new project illustrates yet again what guarantees high makes Mabrun so successful: in-depth product sales figures. competence and handicraft know-how. “One of our USPs is the skilful combination of different materials such as leather, down, fur, hides, and knitted fabrics. The market highly appreciates our typical handwriting”, Andreas Steindl explains. In answer to Mabrun’s continual growth, the management team has been expanded to three individuals, namely Alessandro Giardino as general manager, Marco Toti as chief financial officer, and Andreas Steindl as chief executive. www.mabrun.com

214 style in progress

The Gigi

Boglioli Brothers Newsflash Mario and Pierluigi Boglioli - these names are trusted by the entire fashion industry. Both have sold their shares in the company that bears their family name, but it is no surprise that they don’t want to - and can’t - live without fashion. They staged their comeback by contributing to a project of the fashion label Alain and the result is the new brand of the Boglioli brothers: The Gigi. The brand was introduced to the public at the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show. Although the brothers did send a letter to customers and companions before the aforementioned premiere. In this letter, the two fashion legends explained in poetic words what makes them tick. No, they have not come back to reinvent the jacket again. However, they are eager to exhaust all possibilities in terms of materials, processing techniques, and finishes. They want to experiment and research to create true innovations.

The collection keeps this promise, especially at a second glance. There is no item that doesn’t tell a story. www.bbrothers.it

The Gigi – research as USP.

028 RIGHT NOW

Bloom

It’s Special

Munich Fabric Start – Munich’s top address for fabrics and trends.

One can find many inspirations in the Bloom knitwear collection. The know-how of founder Harald Heldmann, who successfully runs ten Classico branches in North Germany and an online shop together with his wife Christine, is equally tangible. The sum of these experiences defines the standards expected from the Bloom design team. “Consumers want items that are truly special. Anything that is quiet, simple, or plain can only be sold via a low-price policy. This is definitely not our approach, which means our designs need to be innovative and bold”, Harald Heldmann explains. The strong designs are aimed at giving retailers what they need most: high sales figures and low write-downs. A while back, Bloom introduced a B2B portal to allow its customers to reorder certain models online. www.bloom-fashion.de

Munich Fabric Start Bloom brings down fashion and courage to a common denominator.

Focus on Sustainability

This season’s motto of the Munich Fabric Start trade show was “Haute Sporture” and once again attracted no less than 20,000 international professional visitors. 900 exhibitors from more than 30 countries were present and displayed products ranging from basics to denim and from sportswear to high-end fabric collections. One of this year’s main topics was sustainability. The OrganicSelection, an area dedicated to ecological fabrics, showcased roughly 500 ecologically certified fabrics and 100 certified accessories that meet all requirements to be considered as “clean” products. Furthermore, the entire portfolio of the OrganicSelection could be viewed on an online platform and obtained a few weeks before the actual trade show – certainly a one-of-a-kind handson tool. Another aspect worth mentioning is the re-launch of Eco Villages, which – as a sourcing platform and competence centre – shares an approach based on a sustainable value chain and presented itself at the trade show in an interactive atmosphere.

4th to 6th of February 2014, www.munichfabricstart.com

Parajumpers only uses certified furs from Finland and Canada.

Parajumpers

Good Feeling

Fur is controversial. The fur trims that are so typical for many Parajumpers jackets are no exception. This is why Parajumpers has decided to invest in measures that make it possible to use fur with a clear conscience. All fur elements for women’s jackets have the “Finnraccoon” quality seal, which is a label developed by the association of Finnish fur breeders and means that the produce meets the highest standards. The fur suppliers are thoroughly inspected and meet strictest EU criteria.

The fur elements for men’s jackets come from Canada, where the strict rules of the local trappers’ association ensure that the furs are obtained under closely monitored conditions. Both programmes are characterised by high transparency for the consumer. This is just one of the many aspects that convinced Parajumpers to show responsibility regarding fur sourcing. www.parajumpers.it

214 style in progress

VISIT US

SHOWROOM DÜSSELDORF

FA S H I O N E N G I N E E R I N G

www.g-lab.com / info@g-lab.com / +49 211 43 61 67 0 / PREMIUM Berlin / GALLERY Copenhagen / PREMIUM Munich / LIBERTY Las Vegas / CPM Moscow

030 RIGHT NOW

agen cies Ben And

Leading by Example

Since July last year, the fashion agency Ben And does not only have a showroom in Munich, but also a second one in Düsseldorf’s “Kaiserswerther Strasse”, where an independent sales team offers customer support all year round. The new label Loveday Jeans – founded by Ben Botas together with black male model Papis Loveday – focuses on Italian made high-end jeans for both sexes and is, according to Ben Botas himself, well on track. Loveday Jeans hopes to add another showroom in Milan for the upcoming season.

The fashion line’s customers in Germany include Pool and Stierblut in Munich, Harders in Duisburg, and Different Fashion on Sylt. By the way, Different Fashion on Sylt has reserved a 100 square metre space solely for brands from the Ben And portfolio. This is a concept that Ben And hopes to realise with other retailers in the future.

Labels: Cervolante, Franklin & Marshall, Frye, Gas, Goosecraft, Loveday Jeans, Mason’s, Sand Ben And GmbH, Munich/Germany, www.ben-and.com

Loveday Jeans relies on denim made in Italy.

A new boost for the Just Cavalli collection, which is part of Agentur Aco’s portfolio.

Aco Austria

Well Positioned

Service and working relationships based on partnerships are the main focus of Rudolf Kail, the owner of the fashion agency Aco Austria, when it comes to positioning brands. A new addition to the portfolio is Elisabetta Franchi, who offers Italian fashion for women in the upper mid-price range that is both classy and sexy. Another newcomer is Manila Grace, which can be viewed at the German partner agency Aco Düsseldorf. A true classic in the portfolio is the sportswear

by Napapijri. “The brand is experiencing an extremely positive development, especially due to its expansion in the mono-brand store segment”, Rudolf Kail says. “We are still looking for partners in Linz and Graz, as well as in the tourist hotspots of the country.” Just Cavalli has also experienced a massive boost since the license acquisition by Staff International. The women’s fashion range

by Riani boasts a casual look and German craftsmanship, as well as high-quality Italian materials and fits up to size 48. Furthermore, Steffen Schraut is in the mix.

“The collection has forced its way into the best retailers”, Rudolf Kail explains.

Aco Austria presents its portfolio at the Supreme trade show in Munich, while Aco Germany displays its goods in its showroom in Düsseldorf.

Labels: AnneClaire, Black Believe, Cinque, Day Birger et Mikkelsen (Düsseldorf), Ean13, Elisabetta Franchi, Etoile du Monde, Fame on you, Frankie Morello (Düsseldorf), Gas, Geospirit, Gimos, Herzensangelegenheit, Iceberg, Jacques Britt, Just Cavalli, Ki6 – Who are you?, Maliparmi, Manila Grace (Düsseldorf), Napapijri, Phil Petter, Pinko (Düsseldorf), Pirelli P Zero, Riani, Rossoforte, Steffen Schraut, Trussardi Jeans, Versace Collection, Versace Jeans, Who’s who Aco Modeagentur GmbH, Salzburg/Austria, www.acomode.at

214 style in progress

German Distribution by Ben And The Brand Band 路 +49 89 323 080 46 路 www.sandcopenhagen.com

032 RIGHT NOW

Gabriela Kofler Agentur für Mode

Constantly Fresh

Agentur Anke Burkhardt

Rotate & Contemplate

For the next season Gabriela Kofler and her employee, Christina Seer, have news for their customers regarding fashion collections. One of the highlights is certainly the new luxury line by Blonde No.8, which is called No.8 and offers parkas with elaborate fur and hide linings. “It was great to see the customers react to this news with great interest and that they were truly excited to see and subsequently order the parkas”, Christina Seer explains. The agency’s policy to offer complete fashion outfits from head to toe is welcomed gratefully by the clients. This is why Gabriela Kofler has to refine her agency’s total look constantly. This season she achieved this by adding the brands CPtwentynine and Tashimani to her portfolio. The first-mentioned is a fashionably brave collection of cashmere knitwear from Hamburg, while the latter offers colourful armbands in a large variety of designs. Agency owner Gabriela Kofler expects her customers to continue their prudent order policies throughout the new season. “Rightly so, because it simply isn’t possible to order rashly anymore. However, I still believe that the situation and mood in general is positive.”

Labels: Amorph, Arma, Blonde No.8, CPtwentynine, Crick It, Deginther, Drakewood, Exit Brooklyn, Freds Bruder, Gioia, Hice, I Heart, No.8, Tashimani Gabriela Kofler, Salzburg/Austria, gabriela@gabrielakofler.at, www.gabrielakofler.at

I Heart is one of the classics in Agentur Kofler’s brand portfolio.

Anke Burkhardt is known as a saleswoman with heart and soul among her customers. During an in-depth conversation about the state of the industry, she is known to swiftly slip into a pullover to demonstrate the modern attributes of its rather inconspicuous nature. When other agencies shy away for fear of complications, she sees it as a challenge. The lively agency owner influences her partners a lot; after all, she has to ensure that the results at the end of the season are satisfactory. Her most recent achievement is that all the collections she represents have taken a close look at their respective exchange of goods strategies over the entire regular sales season.

“The competition of the retail industry consists of mono-labels that can offer new imagery at least every eight weeks. I have to give the multi-label retailers the same opportunity. That cannot be achieved by many different collections due to structural issues, but can be achieved by the possibility to exchange goods that are not selling well.” Brands such as Lamberto Losani are in the process of perfecting this service and can already offer an exchange product range over the entire season. Anke Burkhardt has made an exchange of her own too. Her agency is present in Munich’s “Prisco House” with immediate effect.

Labels: 17 Stephanie Schneider, Giles, Lamberto Losani, Mantú, Walter Voulaz, Zilla Agentur Anke Burkhardt, Munich/Germany, info@ ankeburkhardt.de, www.ankeburkhardt.de

At home in Munich’s “Prisco House” with immediate effect – Agentur Anke Burkhardt and its sophisticated brand portfolio.

agen cies

Adventure Modeagentur

Growth

The Munich-based agency, which has been successful since 1981, will not only dedicate this spring to its classic existing portfolio brands, but also to new names. Primeboots is a robust Swedish footwear label with production facilities in Spain. In addition, Adventure Modeagentur is now the The Swedish footwear brand Primeboots is new in Adventure Modeagentur’s portfolio. distributor of the re-launched US jacket specialist Spiewak. Existing brands will be enhanced by adding new product groups. One example is the British brand Matchless, which now also offers shoe and accessories collections. The agency also has service improvement on its agenda, such as working on its warehouse programme for customers.

It also plans to expand its B2B tools for the license brands Witty Knitters and the footwear brand Superga. Regarding Superga the agency also has news on the personnel side; the former Converse distribution team has been integrated into the business.

Labels: 0039 Italy, 120% Lino, A.J. 117 Project, By Danie, DNA, Ebony & Ivory, Jenny Packham, K-Way, Matchless, MDK, Mes Demoiselles, Plein Sud, Plein Sud Jeanius, Primeboots, See by Chloé, Spiewak, Superga, Witty Knitters Adventure Modeagentur GmbH, Munich/Germany, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de

214 style in progress

Meet us at fairs: Panorama Berlin Modefabriek Amsterdam CIFF Copenhagen New York MRket Dallas Market Chicago Collective West Coast Trend Show Los Angeles Charlotte, Southern Men´s Market Las Vegas Market CPM Moscow Hot 1 Salzburg Hot 2 Salzburg Fashion Salzburg ÖSFA Salzburg Next Season Poznan Showrooms: Hamburg, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Mönchengladbach, Eschborn, Sindelfingen, München Worldwide: FR, CND, USA, NL, DK, SE, CH,NO, BE, AT, PL, RUS, IT, GR, IRL, J

www.alberto-pants.com/collectionreport

034

Paisley Park

Ethnic Looks from India

want it Blonde No.8

Luxury Parka

Isabel Benenato

Alongside the Blonde No.8 jacket and knitwear collection, the market will be newly introduced to the new fashion line No.8 as of autumn/winter 2014. The new line consists of eight exclusive luxury parkas with retail prices ranging from 999 to 1,499 Euros at a calculation ratio of 3.0. "We are targeting the high-end retailers quite deliberately", says Michael Boveleth, the founder of Blonde No.8 GmbH. "That means we want a maximum of two customers per larger city." The focus is on excellent fits and high quality materials. The parkas boast features such as a full lining made of shorn rabbit fur that does not moult, while one parka is even lined with fox fur. Lambskin sleeves, a wash leather front, and an extraordinarily broad and voluminous raccoon stripe on the hood edge are further details that make these parkas truly special. The colour scope consists of restrained natural tones such as sand and khaki.

Blonde No.8 GmbH, Bonn/Germany, T 0049.228.62908666, mb@blondeno8.com, www.blondeno8.com

Isabel Benenato

Purism and Emotion New textures and minimalistic - often geometrical - shapes characterise the Italian Isabel Benenato collection with lots of Napa leather and high quality knitted elements. The style is both headstrong and wearable, whereby the colour scheme remains low-key. The Isabel Benenato collection, which was founded by the eponymous fashion designer in 2008, consists of outerwear, blouses, dresses, and trousers, as well as innovative accessories.

Maglificio Noba Spa, the Lucca-based company behind the Isabel Benenato label, launches more than 100 items for women and approximately 70 items for men per collection. The purchase prices

for jerseys range from 60 to 115 Euros, for leather items from 400 to 800 Euros, and for knitwear from 100 to 300 Euros, whereby the calculation ratio is set at 2.7. The collection currently has 45 customers with its strongest presence in Italy and the US. Among the customers are Jades in D端sseldorf, Isetan in Tokyo, Frida in Frankfurt, The Library in London, The Archive in San Francisco, and T.N.T. in Toronto.

Isabel Benenato Showroom, Milan/Italy, sales@isabelbenenato.com, www.isabelbenenato.com

When the Munich-based designer Katharina Mirani founded her own brand Paisley Park in 2007, she already had some excellent job references. Her last job before self-employment was at Virmani. Paisley Park is the realisation of her vision of a coherent collection consisting of leather jackets and leather accessories as a complete look with blouses, tunics, dresses, and scarves.

Her designs are inspired by her close ties to India, where she herself resides temporarily and where the Paisley Park products are produced under her supervision by certified companies. So far, her collection with approximately 40 leather items, as well as corresponding accessories and apparel to complete the desired look, is available at upscale specialised retailers throughout Europe.

In Germany her products are stocked by roughly 100 boutiques and concept stores such as Mo Concept in Munich and Pool in Konstanz. The purchase prices start at 30 Euros for cotton tunics, 60 Euros for silk dresses, and 100 Euros for leather jackets. In order to respond to new trends at short notice, Paisley Park also offers its customers trend updates in the form of instant programmes alongside the two main collections per year.

Creative Fashion GmbH, Munich/ Germany, T 0049.89.3506040, info@paisleypark.eu, www.paisleypark.eul

Paisley Park

Blonde No.8

214 style in progress

WANT iT 035

Schmid Manufaktur

RtA Denim

RtA Denim

Fashion Statement The label RtA Denim, founded in Los Angeles

by Eli Azran and David Rimokh in November 2012, is easy, rock & roll chic, and androgynous. "We don't care what the others think" is the confident motto of the founders, who - via the company Dream Project - issue a casual collection for women, which will be complemented by a capsule collection for men from autumn/winter 2014 onwards. Every collection consists of 60 to 70 items, whereby the purchase prices range from 79 to 139 Euros for denim, 429 to 469 Euros for leather, and 39 to 49 Euros for shirts. The calculation ratio is set at 2.7. Approximately 100 retailer in the US, the UK, Germany, Japan, and France stock the collections. Prominent examples are Harrods and Selfridges, Excelsior in Milan, Jades in Düsseldorf, and Pool in Munich, as well as Stylebop.com.

RtA, Dream Project, Los Angeles/US, T 001.213.493.4019, david@rtadenim.com, www.rtadenim.com

to Alexander McQueen, Donna Karan, and Jil Sander in New York. He founded his own brand in 2003 and opened an atelier with integrated production line in China in 2009. There he has 25 employees, spread out over three floors with a total area of 750 square metres.

Additionally, he employs a sample department head, a production manager, a head of sales and general management, and a cook. Peter Schmid spends most of his time on location in a communal building, in which all employees receive a one-room apartment free of charge.

As an insider he has been aware of the conditions in Chinese production facilities for years, but was equally aware of the incredible knowhow that the country harbours. He wanted a different approach right from the start. Right now he is considering a live stream to prove that fair working conditions and the responsible use of raw materials and chemicals can result in products that meet the highest quality standards. After all, that is the basic claim of his highly fashionable shoe collection that is based on true craftsmanship. Alongside the obligatory sneakers, which Peter Schmid continually reinterprets with extraordinary designs, the product range for men and women also includes boots and leather footwear. The purchase prices range from 62 Euros for sneakers to 147 Euros for boots with a calculation ratio of 2.7. Every collection consists of 15 styles with different materials and processing techniques. Since entering the market in 2003, Schmid Manufaktur has had global success

in high-end stores such as Slips and Off&Co in Munich, Reyer in Hallein, and Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong.

Peter Schmid is still seen as one of the great pioneers within the sneakers business. He leads by example.

Schmid Manufaktur, Schongau/ Germany, T 0049.8861.7137776, contact@schmid.cc, www.schmid.cc

David Lerner

Clear Cut How do you combine luxurious fashion with comfortable wearable basics? It seems the New York-based designer David Lerner has achieved just that.

His collection was established in 2008 and mainly consists of sleek basics such as leggings, dresses, and shirts.

He made a name for himself quickly and even managed to make his way into Oprah Winfrey's magazine. The fashion is characterised by material combinations that create exciting looks. Synthetic leather, rayon, mesh, metallic effects, contrast stripes, colour blocking, and eye-catching patterns ensure a huge variety of figure flattering items. The collection consists of approximately 30 pieces.

The purchase prices range from 53 to 79 Euros, while the retail prices range from 139 to 199 Euros. In the US, the collection is available at Blooming­ dales and Saks. Moreover, the label has distribution agreements for Canada and Asia.

Unifa GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.1714990, tanjalehnertz@unifafashion.com, www.unifafashion.coml

Schmid Manufaktur

The One Who Went Forth… …to do it better than the others. Sneakers are his life. As a designer for Puma, Peter Schmid created the models Mostro and Speedcat, which are still legendary today, and was an integral part of the brand's spectacular comeback between 1990 and 2000. He then went

David Lerner

style in progress 214

036 WANT iT

Candice

Sweet Innocence

Luigi Borelli

Luigi Borelli

Noble Naples Founded in 1957, the house of Luigi Borelli proudly displays the coat of arms that identifies it as the court tailor of the royal household of Savoy. The company itself has retained its royal and distinguished feel until today. It has naturally applied its own modern twist, as even the court tailors of the former Italian royal family have arrived in the 21st century. Outerwear meets imaginative knitwear, while a stately shirt collection blends with modern fitted suits and jackets.

The company also offers hand-made ties, trousers, jeans (even made of flannel), and two own fragrances. Luigi Borelli's portfolio is well-known in Italy, but there is still a lot of room for improvement regarding export.

Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz and his agency d-tails have been asked to assist in establishing the brand in the retail scene of German-speaking countries. Reference customers such as Un端tzer, Braun, Lodenfrey, and Ieri Oggi, as well as Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, and Beams on an international level, are a clear statement of intent. The brand also has a strong foothold in the Russian market and operates own stores in Capri, New York, Milan, and Tokyo. New stores in Florence and Forte dei Marmi will follow in the course of 2014. The in-house production facilities ensure that the company can react swiftly. A first order will be delivered within 15 days at a highly attractive price-performance ratio. Luigi Borelli is rigorous regarding its "Made in Italy" promise. Even the yarns are produced in-house and mostly Italian specialists form the backbone of the brand.

Giamp Srl, Casamassima/Italy, m.losito@giamp.net, www.giamp.net

214 style in progress

When the brand name Aglini is applied to a blouse or a shirt, that can be interpreted as a sign of quality. It is a kind of quality seal for characteristic Italian cuts, unusual details, and fine materials. The brand has outgrown its insiders' tip status by now. Against this background, the launch of Candice, a new sub-label with feminine blouses, has to meet high expectations.

The Italian production specialist Aglini wants to meet the aforementioned expectations by offering women's blouses that are exclusively produced in its home country, mostly by hand. The brand will present itself for the first time at the Premium trade show in Berlin in January 2014.

It will be accompanied by Marion Hoferer, whose Munich-based agency will represent Candice.

The product range consisting of two collections per year with purchase prices between 69 and 89 Euros at a 2.7 calculation ratio is mainly targeted at upscale women's wear stores.

Aglini, Sansepolcro/Italy, T 0039.0575.749822, info@aglini.com, www.aglini.com

Candice

Essentiel

Positive Aura Essentiel Antwerp was created

by Esfan Eghtessadi and Inge Onsea in 1999, initially as a simple T-shirt collection. Now the Belgian label is characterised by colourful ready-to-wear clothing that combines fashion enthusiasm, originality, passion, and vitality. The wide range of colours offered by the women's collection - from vivid and bright to soft and creamy - leaves nothing to be desired. The interplay of bold prints and unusual details turns Essentiel items into top selling eye-catchers that are ideal as a price-related substructure for designer brands. This is mainly due to the excellent price/ performance ratio with purchase prices ranging from 25 to 110 Euros. Given that Essentiel offers fashionable updates at reasonable prices and a playful mix of colours, shapes, and materials, it really is no wonder that the brand has already won over so many retailers.

Essentiel Antwerp, Antwerp/Belgium, laurent@essentiel-antwerp.com, www.essentiel-antwerp.coml

Essentiel

www.marlino. de Alda is wearing pArkA LU

038 WANT iT

PB 0110

The Essential Companion Philipp Bree and his brother have been at the helm of the family business Bree for more than ten years. He started thinking about establishing his own brand in 2012 and subsequently introduced PB 0110 in Berlin and Paris in January 2013. The collection of bags and accessories is Bree's ambitious solo project. He delivered the first items to partners in Sydney, New York, Hong Kong, Basel, Berlin, Munich, London, and Paris as soon as June 2013. Philipp Bree's brand philosophy is based on his own belief in the relevance of favourite pieces; the items develop individual traits and turn into essential companions gradually. To ensure that the bags and accessories become more beautiful over time and develop a unique patina, the brand works with sustainable plant tanned natural leather, linen, and messing. The materials are processed in specialised European workshops that have excelled in the use of high quality materials over many generations. PB 0110 is available at Quartier 206 in Berlin, The Broken Arm in Paris, and Galeries Lafayette in Hong Kong for between 129 and 999 Euros.

PB 0110, Hannover/Germany, T 0049.511.80602861, p.bree@pb0110.com, www.pb0110.com

Georg et Arend

Haute Couture from Munich Elegance, aesthetics, and passion – all these terms and more are what define the handmade cocktail and evening dresses designed by the twin brothers Arend and Georg Zizelmann. Every item boasts a timelessly fashionable design, expert craftsmanship, and materials of the highest quality. The aim of the Munich-based fashion and couture label is to bring the personality of every customer to the forefront. The elaborate handiwork of Georg at Arend justifies core purchase prices between 160 and 530 Euros for daywear and 350 to 820 Euros for cocktail and evening clothing. The calculation ratio is 2.8. The label also offers madeto-measure fashion for existing retail partners and repeat orders of individual items are also possible.

Two collections per year are presented in the label’s own showroom and store, but also at various trade shows in Europe. Georg at Arend is available in stores such as Lodenfrey in Munich and Popp & Kretschmer in Vienna.

Showroom & Store Georg et Arend, Munich/Germany, T. 0049.89.221990, info@georgetarend.com, www.georgetarend.com

Maison Olga

Maison Olga

Knitted Travel Impressions

Georg et Arend

PB 0110

214 style in progress

Maison Olga is the child of a French/Italian friendship. Designer Laurence gained experience at Louis Vuitton for many years, while designer Giula worked for Prada. Both individuals wanted to express their personalities in own creations, which led to the birth of Maison Olga and its first fashion collection in 2011. The brand chose knitwear as its trademark. The company teamed up with a weaving mill that has exclusive contracts with luxury brands and that turned out to be the perfect fit for Maison Olga's own attention to details. The designer duo draws its inspiration from the countries they have travelled through. They embark on a journey for every season and then transform their experiences into a fashion collection. This time Maison Olga is following the trails of the Incas. The journey leads through the cacti deserts in Peru to the Andes or into the jungle of the Amazon; from the gold and silver of the sun temples to the healthy green of Machu Picchu. The Jacquard knitwear with geometric patterns and lace applications is sold at Harvey Nichols in London at prices between 210 and 595 Euros.

Maison Olga, Paris/France, T 0033.982.235129, info@maisonolga.com, sarah@sarahgielen.com, www.maisonolga.coml

b.m.h werbeagentur | hamburg

PREMIUM BERLIN 14.-16. JANUAR 2014 STAND H7-D48 GAVE OG INTERIØR OSLO 23.-26. JANUAR 2014 STAND B05-21 CIFF KOPENHAGEN 30.01-02. FEBRUAR 2014 STAND C3-009 AARHUS FASHION WEEK CENTRALVÆRKSTEDET 17.-20. FEBRUAR 2014 DÜSSELDORF 01. -03. FEBRUAR 2014 UNITED FASHION RATHER STR. 49E, 2.OG 40476 DÜSSELDORF MUNICHFASHION WOMEN MÜNCHEN 15. -18. FEBRUAR 2014 AGENTUR MARTIN STECKEL C/O ROLF GRIESINGER INTERNATIONALE MODE GMBH AM KOSTTOR 1 80331 MÜNCHEN

www.bloom-fashion .com

FALL WINTER 2014

040 WANT iT

The Will

2013. The label intends to issue two collections per year and will present its goods in the showrooms in Milan and Amsterdam. It has already persuaded various stores in both Europe and Asia.

Novarese SRL, Corridonia/Italy, T 0039.0733.433631, info@novarese.it, www.d-side.biz

The Viper Room

Legendary

The Will

An American Original William Adler's story is one of those fantastic ones that can only happen in America. After an acting career in Hollywood, Will Adler founded three leather products companies, which he all sold on with a profit. He then established Will Leather Goods as a household name for high-end leather products and belts within the industry. The products are characterised by their American heritage, the clear signature of traditional handicraft techniques, and their fashionably interpreted functionality. The items are exclusively produced in Mexico and the US. The products - which have been

available in the US, Canada, and Japan in stores such as American Rag, Ron Herman, and Blue Jeans Bar up until now - will be represented by the German fashion agencies SASAtrend in Aachen and Agentur Hoferer in Munich from January 2014 onwards. The items will also be presented during the Premium trade show in Berlin in January 2014 for the first time. The purchase prices for the leather belts, bags, and accessories range from 200 to 600 Euros with a 2.7 calculation ratio. The brand launches two collections per year and has an extensive NOS programme. Since 2012, The Will has opened three own stores in Venice in California, Portland in Oregon, and Soho in New York.

Will Leather Goods, Eugene/Oregon/US, T 001.310.3998700, willservice@willleathergoods.com, www.willleathergoods.com

The Viper Room, an infamous nightclub on Hollywood's Sunset Strip, is not only an institution within the US. Bands such as Oasis, Iggy Pop, The White Stripes, Bruce Springsteen, and Red Hot Chili Peppers played in that venue. Johnny Depp was a joint partner when the club opened in 1993. The actor River Phoenix died in front of the club after a Speedball overdose. A men's collection based on rock & roll heritage was launched to celebrate the club's 20th anniversary. Elias Belhouane, the creative director, came up with printed vintage-look T-shirts, denim styles, and hats. The shirts are produced in the US. The items are closely linked to the music scene too. The packaging shaped like an LP is reminiscent of the famous name giver in LA and is also the perfect souvenir. The purchase prices for shirts range from 39 to 45 Euros, denim trousers cost between 85 and 125 Euros, and hats an average 25 Euros.

Unifa GmbH, D端sseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.1714990, tanjalehnertz@unifafashion.com, www.unifafashion.coml

D-Side

Always New

D-Side

214 style in progress

High-end materials, two anatomic soles, "Strobel" production method - this is what characterises the leather sneakers produced by D-Side. The label was founded in 2013 by Mauro Gismondi, the co-owner of the Italian shoe production plant Novarese, and the fashion designer Andrea Dal Zennaro. It embodies the perfect combination of traditional handicraft and innovation. This is mainly achieved by using interchangeable laces that allow the wearer to give the shoes a completely different look every day. One can choose from various shoe models in different colours and up to 51 different shoelaces. The average retail prices stand at 215 Euros for women's shoes and 230 Euros for men's shoes, while the retail prices for the laces range between 96 and 452 Euros. D-Side started with the autumn/winter collection for

The Viper Room

w w w.minimum.dk

042 WANT iT

Pankaj & Nidhi

interpretation of classic materials. The label produces two collections per year in a highly specialised production plant in Italy. Exclusivity and the luxury brand’s high quality standards justify retail prices that start at 300 Euros. Alongside its presence in various online stores for luxury fashion, R13 can also be purchased in the most renowned stores throughout Asia and Europe.

R13, New York/US, T 001.212.3343055, victoire@r13denim.com, www.r13denim.coml

Music for the Eyes When the Indian power couple Pankaj & Nidhi founded their eponymous fashion label in 2006, their move was welcomed with enthusiasm almost instantly. The international press was full of praise for Pankaj & Nidhi and the label also won several Elle Style awards, including the designer of the year award in 2012, as well as the International Woolmark Prize.

The designer duo studied at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in India and draws inspiration for its fashion collections from the craftsmanship, symbolism, and artefacts of their country's culture. Pankaj & Nidhi combines the colourful India with western aesthetics to create new Sari silhouettes with a focus on futuristic clothing technology. The correct ingredients in the right doses give the items their exceptional character.

The designers describe their most recent

Want Les Essentiels de la Vie

collection - titled Music Box - as "music for the eyes" based on their own love for music.

Pankaj & Nidhi collections are available in flagship stores in New Delhi and Mumbai, as well as in international multi-brand stores such as Les Jupons de Suzon in Paris and Vivre in Luxembourg.

Pankaj & Nidhi, T 0091.11.29522800, info@pankajnidhi.com, www.pankajnidhi.com

Want Les Essentiels de la Vie

The Culture of Modern Travellers

Pankaj & Nidhi

What characterises high-quality travel accessories? They are simple and multi-functional, modern and timeless alike, sustainable, and last for generations. The handcrafted leather accessories by Want Les Essentiels de la Vie - a young label initiated by Dexter and Byron Peart - meet all the aforementioned requirements. Weekender, rucksack, laptop bag, or wallet - all models boast convincing shapes, functions, and original design details. The retail prices range from 90 Euros for smaller leather accessories to 1170 Euros for large leather travel luggage. The innovations of the two annual collections can be viewed at the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence. Want Les Essentiels de la Vie is available at stores such as 10 Corso Como in Seoul and Galeries Lafayette in Paris, as well as many other renowned stores in the US, Asia, and Europe.

Want Les Essentiels de la Vie, New York/US, T 001.212.4145814, info@wantessentiels.com, www.wantessentiels.com

R13

American Spirit “Don’t tread on me!” – The New York-based luxury denim label R13 was founded in 2009 and draws its inspiration from the Gadsden Flag, as well as the traditions and the history of America. It therefore embodies the rebellious culture of the continent. The label is sexy and sophisticated, playful and refined, tough and confident – yet it is still always straightforward, authentic, and even modest. The compact and fashionable collections consisting of jeans, knitwear, and leather items boast designs that are always a step ahead. The main goal of R13 is to achieve a contemporary

214 style in progress

R13

get your ! free eTicket now 12.-14.03.2014 d端sseldorf, germany www.gds-online.com Messe D端sseldorf GmbH P.O. Box 10 10 06 _ 40001 D端sseldorf _ Germany Tel. + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-01 _ Fax + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-6 68

www.messe-duesseldorf.de

044 WANT iT

decades. The timeless pieces can be purchased via the Nach online store and are also available at Barbara Reisch Accessories in Vienna. The prices range from 54 Euros for earrings to 325 Euros for the largest necklace.

Nach Bijoux, Toulouse/France, T 0033.531.619419, contact@nachbijoux.com, www.nachbijoux.com

Rocio

Rocio

Fashion is Art Again The Scottish bag label Rocio offers a huge selection of stunning hand-made handbags and clutches with a very special feature. They are all made of renewable acacia softwood combined with luxurious materials such as shells, precious stones, pearls, and crystals, as well as leather from crocodiles, pythons, ostriches, and rays. Each Rocio design is manufactured by the designer herself, who follows 19 production steps. It can take up to four weeks until a bag is completed. This is how long it takes to perfect the refined and valuable pieces that turn the respective designs into an exclusive statement of elegance. Designer Rocio Olbes founded her label in London in 2006. Her collection is now available in more than 46 countries and can be found in some of the most exclusive stores in the world such as Henri Bendel in New York and Harvey Nichols in London. The retail prices of these perfect ecological luxury accessories range from 290 to 790 Euros.

The collection includes classic and contemporary evening bags, elaborate clutches, and smaller fine

handbags in six categories: Classical, Contemporary, Crocodile, Exotic, Natural, and Ocean.

Rocio, East Kilbride/UK, T 0044.1355.200678, gavinkw@rocio.co.uk, www.rocio.co.uk

Nach Bijoux

Colourful and Vivacious From red ladybirds to grey-headed lovebirds, from leopards to shepherd dogs - Nach creates a whole menagerie of colourful decorative of motifs from exotic birds, wild creatures, and domestic animals.

The line of the French label headquartered in Toulouse is rooted in family history. Nach has been one of the most significant traders of miniature porcelain animals for almost 30 years. Now the company also produces jewellery made of porcelain. The outstanding quality levels are guaranteed by a unique manufacturing technology in the company's in-house workshop which solely relies on hand-made components. The highly detailed pieces of jewellery are sometimes made completely of porcelain, but can also be coated with brass gold or combined with leather, feathers, or other similar materials.

These items truly stand the test of time and can be admired for many

NSF

Cool Denim NSF stands for Nick Steven Friedberg, who founded the brand with his initials to launch a small collection of jeans for men. Before this step, Friedberg had already gained experience in the fashion scene of Los Angeles at companies such as Yaya and James Perse. In 2012, NSF also launched a women's collection, which quickly developed into an openly traded insiders' tip for authentic women's jeans. The style is generally relaxed and casual. The jeans are manufactured without stretch elements and have an especially pleasant feel. The average purchase prices for jeans range from 128 to 149 Euros, roughly 50 Euros for sweaters, and shirts from 31 Euros. The label also offers jackets. The distinct casual look instantly excited customers such as Fred Segal, Barneys, and Ron Herman.

The collection is now stocked by approximately 200 stores all around the globe.

Lucy Wernick - based in London - took over the distribution for Europe in autumn 2013. The German-speaking markets are covered by Agentur Schramm-Badenhop. www.nsfclothing.com Lucy Wernick, Associatef Ltd, London/UK, T 0044.20.75808644, lucy@lwfa.co.uk, www.lwfa.co.ukl

NSF

Nach Bijoux

214 style in progress

WANT iT 045

Stefano Grassi

Italians Do It Better Stefano Grassi clearly has leather in his veins. His family has been renowned for finest saddlery for many generations, but this young Grassi wanted to think outside the box. He started thinking about fashion accessories and founded his own exquisite leather goods brand in 2011. Stefano Grassi's bags are characterised by incredibly smooth surfaces, finest elegance, masculine lines, and perfectly rounded corners, thereby turning into style objects between the realms of fashion and design. He respects traditions, but that does not mean that Grassi is not open for innovations. He combines ultra-soft leather with polyurethane and microfibers, thereby giving the bags a chic hightech touch. The sizes range from small practical bags for day or evening use to larger shopper bags. The highlight is an inner leather bag lined with microfibers for laptops and documents. It can be integrated into the bags, removed, and can also be used alone. The bags can be purchased in the main branch of Antoniolo in Milan.

Stefano Grassi, Milan/Italy, T 0039.0347.4675370, stefanograssi@stefanograssi.eu, www.stefanograssi.eu

Juan Vidal

Artful Dresses Juan Vidal's talent was obvious at an early age.

After four generations of tailors, this son left the Spanish community Elda to study Fine Art at the University of Barcelona. However, Vidal changed his mind after one semester and transferred to a fashion design course at the Felicidad Duce School of Design and Fashion. In September 2005, he entered Barcelona's ModaFad and won the award for the best fashion collection. The following year, he presented his first professional fashion collection

Juan Vidal

at the Bread & Butter and Pasarela trade shows in Barcelona. Vidal has been collecting awards ever since, including Revlon's best collection award, the designer of the year prize from Tendencias Moda, and numerous best collection awards handed out by Peronda. These accolades honour how much of Vidal's artistic skill flows into the dresses, which he designs with a chic and sensitive woman in mind.

They also honour his use of colours, his architectural perception of volume, and his ability to make fabrics his own by utilising elaborate embroidery, appliquĂŠs, and other techniques. His collections are available at Galeria Grafiti in Bari and The Prime in Moscow.

Juan Vidal, Alicante/Spain, T 0034.966.311766, brandmanager@juanvidal.net, www.juanvidal.net

Abcense

Abcense

Wearable Sculptures

Stefano Grassi

Abcense is a very special shoe brand from Taipei, made for demanding customers on the lookout for individuality and uniqueness. The designer duo Jhuosan and Yoko creates timeless footwear made of high-end hand-dyed goatskin, calfskin, and suede; layers play with the tension between revealing and shrouding. This creates complex and sophisticated geometric structures that populate the space between fashion and product design; the items are delicate little sculptures that get their final touches applies by hand and whose extraordinary effect on the silhouette make them seem like a natural extension of the wearer. The concept is based on omitting elements, which is a central aspect of Oriental art and ceramics. Traditional Chinese painters often deliberately leave a visual gap

that the viewer can interpret and fill in his own imagination. Abcense follows exactly that concept. An imaginary empty space encourages customers to define their interpretation of Abcense in their own mind.

The first collection consists of 30 items in natural colour tones. The pumps, flat shoes, sandals, and boots are available in five international stores. One of them is Oukan in Berlin. The retail prices range from 297 to 600 Euros.

Abcense, Taipei/Taiwan, T 0088.62.28766366, ares@abcense.com, www.abcense.coml style in progress 214

046 WANT iT

responsibility. The socks - 98% cotton and 2% spandex - are produced in Germany's "sock belt" near Chemnitz. Regarding style, the label is eager to supply designs that men can identify with. The social responsibility aspect is covered by the fact that "Made in Germany" ensures fair production conditions and short transport routes. The socks are currently available at 30 points of sale in Germany.

They can be purchased online from 9.50 Euros per pair and at 49 Euros for a pack of six. The brand will present three new colours and the first patterned socks for autumn/winter 2015 at the Premium trade show in Berlin.

Stilfaser GmbH, Mannheim/Germany, T 0049.621.180685530, b2b@jungfeld.com, www.jungfeld.com

only the highest quality fabrics – that’s just one aspect of that philosophy. The high quality standards justify purchase prices that range from 79 Euros to 149 Euros for blouses and tops, from 169 Euros to 269 Euros for dresses, and from 279 Euros to 498 Euros for jackets and coats. By the way, the company does not have predetermined calculation ratios for retailers. The collection includes elegant business and evening fashion, but also quite a few more casual looks. The opinionated, distinctive, and very feminine style of Macs Munich can be found at high-end specialised retailers with a more progressive fashion approach such as Lodenfrey in Munich and Franz Sauer in Cologne.

Macs Munich, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.69373055, info@macs-munich.de, www.macs-munich.de

Macs Munich

Since the incorporation of his label Uber in 2009, Dag Even Tresselt has proven that the combination of high-tech materials and smart business looks works perfectly. Clean designs with intelligent details, dark colours, and slim cuts are mixed with ultra-light materials and the newest technologies on the outdoor market. The young Norwegian premium menswear label offers weatherproof – yet still refined – jackets and coats for everyday use in urban environments, thereby closing the gap between fashion and function. Items by Uber cost between 300 Euros and 700 Euros in retail. Existing collections are upgraded constantly and expanded every season – initially only for winter, but now also summer – by a few models, which guarantees that 50% of the initial order can be re-ordered. Alongside its own online store, the label is already available at more than 60 premium retailers in Scandinavia, the UK, and Germany. The Bread & Butter Berlin trade show acts as Uber’s presentation platform.

UBER A/S, Oslo/Norway, info@uberfunction.com, www.uberfuntion.com l

The New Pinnacle Von Jungfeld

Since designer Rieke Common took over the entire responsibility for the brand Macs Munich from founder Barbara Kessels last year, the Munich-based atelier has experienced a breath of fresh air. Rieke Common, a former chief designer at Rena Lange and – for a brief period – at Strenesse, joined Macs in 2008 because she was fascinated by the philosophy of the owner-managed company. For instance, all items are exclusively produced in Germany using

Uber

Elegant Technology

Von Jungfeld

Sound as a Pound!

Lucas Pulkert, 22, is studying culture and economy, while Maria Pantschev, 27, is in the midst of her Master of Music and Creative Industries. So it's quite logical that the two get together to produce socks, right? This is how the story goes. The two students from Mannheim wanted to realise a creative project together. Mannheim regularly stages a start-up competition named Incubator Day, which is an initiative of the Mannheim Centre for Entrepreneurship and Innovation). Our two main characters put their thinking caps on for a while and finally came up with the idea to design colourful socks for men. During the aforementioned contest, Lucas Pulkert and Maria Pantschev managed to find an investor for their cool socks. Their label Von Jungfeld, for which the two founded a company named Stilfaser, started in January 2013. The label started off with men's socks in six different colours and names three points that are central to its brand image: quality, style, and social

214 style in progress

Uber Macs Munich

WANT iT 047

Cashmere 'n' Pearl

A Pearl for Everyone

Matchless Shoes

Matchless Shoes

Curvy

Matchless truly embodies the tradition-steeped British motorbike culture. The company has been producing motorcycles since 1899. Actor Marlon Brando became a legend in the 1950s as „The Wild One“ on the model „Scrambler“. Matchless soon started to manufacture functional motorbike-related clothing to complement its bikes. Top model Kate Moss posed for the autumn/winter 2013/14 collection. The product range includes high-end jackets and has been expanded by shoe and accessories

lines. The retail prices range from 349 to 449 Euros for quilted jackets.

Down jackets cost between 599 and 849 Euros, while leather jackets cost between 1,099 and 1,299 Euros. The retail prices of the shoes range from 249 Euros for sneakers to 449 Euros for boots. The customer list of the Brits includes stores such as Different on Sylt, Breuninger, Daniels, Schnitzler, Stiesing, and Lodenfrey.

Matchless, Mogliano Veneto/Italy, T 0039 041 4574067, sales@matchlesslondon.com, www.matchlesslondon.com

The pearl - it is perfectly shaped and beautiful; it is subtle, yet simultaneously embodies perennial value. That is why Berlin-based artist Pearl Jung chose the pearl as the trade mark for her cashmere collection titled Cashmere 'n' Pearl - to communicate timelessness and quality. The accessories collection mainly consists of fine shawls made of 100% cashmere and are exclusively produced in Germany. Pearl Jung wants to revive Germany's former status as a stronghold for knitwear and - at the same time guarantee highest quality levels. The brand, which was founded after the record winter of 2013, is represented in the German retail industry with 15 triangle shawls per season and managed to persuade renowned customers such as Mode Döttinger in Stuttgart shortly after it was launched. The purchase prices range from 65 Euros to 170 Euros.

Cashmere 'n' Pearl, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.22193242, onlineshop@cashmere-pearl.com, www.cashmere-pearl.coml

Giampaolo

Loads of Handicraft

Giampaolo

Mostly hand-crafted shirts made in Italy are the promise of the Giampaolo brand, which is part of the fashion house Giamp, a production company that is also the worldwide licensee of the menswear brand Borelli. The special feature of the shirts is that four steps of the production process are hand-made, which ensures that every shirt has loads of individuality.

The purchase prices range from 60 to 70 Euros.

The large selection of materials, the fashionable slim fits, and the love for details now hope to win over retailers in Germany too. The product range is extensive, including uni-colour and chequered shirts, striped patterns and fantasy designs, and even specialised patterns such as „Pied-de-Poule“.

The choice of collars includes styles such as button-down collars, soft collars, and business collars reinforced with rods. In addition to the obligatory long-sleeved shirts, Giampaolo also offers many of its models with short sleeves.

Giamp Srl, Casamassima/Italy, m.losito@giamp.net, www.giamp.net

Cashmere 'n' Pearl

style in progress 214

Visit us at…

Munich Fashion WoMen 15 – 18 February 2014 Tracht & Country Salzburg 28 February – 2 March 2014 ShoWrooM Salzburg | guSSWerk Söllheimstrasse 16 | 5020 Salzburg Tracht & Country Premiere 21 – 22 January 2014 Fashion Salzburg 8 – 11 February 2014 hoT II Salzburg 16 – 18 February 2014

www.meindl-fashions.de

050 THE LONGVIEW

Trend researcher, publicist, curator, and lecturer - Lidewij Edelkoort, the Parisian by choice plays many parts to perfection.

214 style in progress

THE LONGVIEW 051

"Shopping Needs to Change"

Lidewij Edelkoort is one of the most significant trend researchers on the planet. She holds lectures and seminars and teaches at universities worldwide. She also publishes books and her own magazine titled "Bloom" alongside acting as curator for exhibitions such as "M°BA Modebiennale" in Arnhem and "Talking Textiles" in Tilburg. For the grey eminence of the industry - and her company Trend Union - future research is not a work of chance, which is why the nomad is constantly travelling around the globe.

Her forecasting reliability is truly legendary. In the US and Asia she is present with Edelkoort East in Tokyo and Edelkoort Inc. in New York. style in progress met the Netherlands-born researcher in Arnhem, where she was the curator of the "Mode­ biennale" last year.

Interview: Ina KĂśhler.

Photos: Susanne Boidol, Marie Taillefer

What does the city of Arnhem mean to you?

I have mixed emotions. It's a sentimental journey because this is where I attended art school.

It's very interesting to see how the city has developed from after World War II to the 21st century. Arnhem is very appealing and almost village-like with the Rhine and the wonderful parks in the city centre. For me it's a pleasure to be here, but it's also a little strange. I grew up in a nearby town called Wageningen, worked in Amsterdam for a while, and then left Holland in 1975 to spend the majority of my life in Paris.

Is Paris still "the place to be" when it comes to trends?

Paris is a truly wonderful city.

You can live your life very anonymously there. Unlike in Holland, where everyone knows everyone. The beauty of it is that you live in a kind of open-air museum. Paris is large, but it isn't a mega-city. Every district is like a little village or a small town. However, it is not necessary to live in a particular city to spot trends. Ideas and new trends can be found everywhere.

When you enter a location, what is the first thing you notice?

I perceive the room - the volume of it. style in progress 214

052 THE LONGVIEW

There's too much of the same.

Furthermore, shopping doesn't offer sufficient experiences anymore. There is a lack of experiences in terms of emotion and surprise. Touch me and seduce me - there has to be a dialogue that you have with a collection or an environment. This is where the retail industry has to rethink its stance.

"It is not necessary to live in a parti­ cular city to spot trends.

Ideas and new trends can be found every­ where."

Will the competition between online and offline retailers accelerate this process?

It forced the retailers to have a clear positioning. Everyone will have to target both areas. At some point the lack of activity in front of the screen becomes a problem. We don't touch things anymore. I think we have developed a real fear that the haptic experience disappears completely. This is not only important for creative consumers, but for everyone.

How can you integrate haptic experiences into a store?

Touch is one of the key elements of fashion; online shopping lacks it completely.

And when you meet people, what is the first thing you take notice of? Fashion and clothing?

No, it's definitely not fashion.

I'd say lips and eyes, gestures, and body language. I am actually not that interested in fashion.

I don't judge people; that's not my style. My eyes scan the room for details, different materials, different hairstyles, and different shoes. I notice everything, but not intentionally. It has become second nature for me.

Photo: Marie Taillefer. Styling: Sergio Machado

You are always on the go as trend researcher, publisher, curator, and lecturer. Which role suits you best?

214 style in progress

That's really hard to say. I like it all and especially the combination of it all. It all seems to belong together. What I learn from trends can be transferred to exhibitions and I share my knowledge with the students.

This then leads back to other aspects; it all merges into each other. However, I am happiest

when I can design my colours and my own trend books.

When we met in London, you were lecturing on the atmosphere in stores. You said that many stores are too loud with too many elements.

I think shopping needs to change. Most shops are old-fashioned; they show too many goods at once. The shop is used as a warehouse, which is a huge mistake in my eyes. It would be much better to show less in a smaller space - a kind of showroom with a hidden storage room. It is also highly unpleasant that so many people offer the same things. That makes it difficult to choose, mainly because one never sees anything new.

There are simply too many goods in the stores. At the moment we are experiencing a small revolt among the youngest generation, which is fed up with all this waste. It is important to develop smaller collections that are more focused, selected, and surprising.

Well, you can handle clothing in a store; you can try the clothing on, that's sufficient. However, the store itself needs to change.

Most store concepts are from the 20th century, while department stores date back as far as the 19th century. The prêt-a-porter idea is a child of the 60s and the same applies to fashion boutiques.

Stores such as Armani and Ralph Lauren were developed in the 80s. Nothing - not even online shopping - is from our time, the 21st century.

Do you really find nothing inspiring during your travels?

No. I think that the crisis has not contributed to creativity; people have merely survived this period.

It is difficult to develop groundbreaking ideas with fresh energy when in survival mode.

Sometimes a crisis can result in more freedom…

Not if there is a lack of funds and the store rent is so high.

Many people no longer go out, neither for fashion nor for culture. You have to fight to coax the people out again, which is an enormous challenge!

Some retailers have the belief that customers want to be entertained in a store.

I think that is a mistake. The products themselves should be entertaining. However, fashion - with all those retro trends was rather boring over the last

THE LONGVIEW 053

In her capacity as trend researcher, Lidewij Edelkoort develops ideas that are integrated into her exhibitions later: This image shows how the aprons topic was staged.

20 years or so, partly because many luxury brands aren't really interested in fashion anymore, but only in accessories. Fashion is merely a backdrop for their accessories. Many people perceive clothing as fashion and copy it as fashion. When prêt-a-porter copies prêt-a-porter, you end up with horrible prêt-a-porter.

Hong Kong, Korea, Northern Europe, and Eastern Europe.

In my eyes, that was more a status-quo than a result of the crisis. The avant-garde is showing strong experimental ideas that will inspire others. That is definitely better for the market.

Not all of it is! During the M°BA Modebiennale, for which I acted as curator last summer, you could see a young generation of truly extraordinary designers.

They come from all corners of the planet and it's easy to see how strong, energetic, and experimental their work is. So I'd say there is still a little hope for a new era with a highly innovative approach to fashion.

I believe the strong bearing of marketing is one reason for the lack of progress. The malaise in the retail industry is that we already own all the items it offers.

We have 15 different versions of them. Why should you always buy the same? The novelty value is much too subtle.

Is fashion really that boring?

Isn't that also a direct result of the crisis?

This generation was born during the crisis. They come from India,

audience happy. Nobody wants to stagnate; everybody wants to look ahead, make positive experiences, and be more creative.

We have to be more innovative and play with emotions and experiences more. That's why I don't like prefabricated experiences in the stores. The clothing itself - the colours and the products - should be the experience, possibly supported by films or videos.

Are large companies too enslaved by marketing to come forward with real innovations?

What could one do to counteract this development?

My new trend season for the winter is titled "BOLD". It is about cheeky, audacious, and daring ideas that enhance our consciousness. It makes my

"The store it­ self needs to change. Most store concepts are from the 20th century, while depart­ ment stores date back as far as the 19th century."

Don't we have enough multimedia in the stores already?

No. I can imagine that there will be stores that solely consist of such elements, like a moving image shop. Furthermore, films are an important part of fashion; they are a new way to communicate. There is also a tendency to experiment with fashion - to curate it and exhibit it. In those cases fashion is very close to art.

When speaking about trends today, it is impossible not to

style in progress 214

054 THE LONGVIEW

generation as a vintage item.

This incredibly cheap clothing often doesn't survive a week. The quality is so disastrous that the items can't even be recycled. For me, this is one of the worst aspects of our industry. We should all be aware of this.

"The malaise in the retail industry is that we already own all the items it offers."

Do you think that the concept of consuming less at higher quality standards will ever be a topic for the broad market?

It will take time and even more education - more documentations and media attention too.

Unfortunately, the tragedy in Bangladesh was necessary to put the topic on the political agenda.

It will take another disaster before it rises to the top of the priority list. Maybe we should send over young people to the production plants so they can learn from the experience.

Talking about production - do you think more capacities will return to Europe?

"Fetishism in Fashion" is the title of one of the exhibitions that Edelkoort accompanied as curator.

mention sustainability. Is it a niche or a trend for the mass market?

Sustainability is important, but it is more a process than a trend.

The large brands invest heavily in sustainability, but it is a difficult undertaking and takes its time.

Photos: Marie Taillefer. Styling: Sergio Machado

However, there are two sides to this too: more awareness on the one hand, and a lot of companies that promote a throwaway culture.

214 style in progress

This throwaway mentality is repulsive. It destroys people and the economy. A lot of people don't care that other humans die so they can wear cheap clothing.

Therefore, the public is responsible.

If you have ever baked bread in your life, then you know much work that means. You simply cannot sell a T-shirt for less than a loaf of bread. You need a lot of expertise to produce a T-shirt and it requires many steps.

You need to plant and harvest cotton and spin the yarn; then

the T-shirt needs to be tailored, embellished, printed, shipped, and sorted. Then money needs to be spent on supermodels and top photographers. And after all that you sell the T-shirt for a few Euros? Everyone has to realise that this is quite simply impossible.

The European administration should set a minimum price so we can stop such conduct.

A lot of companies with such a low pricing policy specifically target very young customers who don't even understand the circumstances yet.

But the parents understand it.

The stores should be prohibited by law from trading at such unrealistic prices. It is inhumane and a nuisance. It is based on the idea that fashion is a disposable product. However, that is not the idea of clothing. The value of a beautiful dress stems from the fact that you can wear it repeatedly; possibly even pass it on to your daughter or granddaughter.

You can even sell it on to a future

It is happening right now.

They have a huge interest in it, especially the younger industries. There are some pretty good, powerful, and proactive machines that target smaller brands. You can use these machines to - for instance - produce special colours that enable you to react swiftly to changing market demands. They also make it possible to produce in smaller quantities.

Could it be possible to transfer this principle to the mass market?

I think that flexible machines will be invented, which will shift parts of the production capacities to Europe. However, we have to be aware of the fact that these machines will not bring back jobs. Robots and machines will replace human labour, which means the idea behind this development is to make the companies leaner. It isn't necessarily better for the society. We need to think about a new social order and consider how we distribute money and labour. Do we want more people working less hours?

Should we offer financial support from the day of birth onwards?

You work in different industries such as industrial design, interior design, fashion, and architecture. Where do you find the most interesting projects?

I believe industrial design is a highly innovative field. Designers

THE LONGVIEW 055

"A lot of people don't care that other humans die so they can wear cheap clothing."

Furthermore, there will be brands that specialise in a single product such as scarves or shirts, all from the same mould. In addition, fashion will rekindle its interest in androgynous topics.

Men are becoming more feminine, which is a new domain in the menswear sector.

Has your work as trend researcher changed over the last couple of years?

Innovation in the fashion world often needs provocation.

co-operate closely with manufacturers and don't necessarily have to contribute all design steps themselves. They have own production facilities on the one hand, but can also operate with partners in other countries. The designer brings it all together. As a result, the management and the production side co-operate closely as a team. In contrast to the industrial design industry, the classic fashion education produces individualists and promotes egocentric thinking, which is really old-fashioned. The 21st century is about co-operation, about bringing people together, about teamwork, and about using and sharing machines in a co-operative fashion.

The new generation is used to this already?

Yes. They were born into it, so to speak. It is the only way to deal with the enormous challenges that await us. Co-operation is a way to research together before realising own projects. One can

share machines, production facilities, and platforms; or one can establish a collective of smaller stores. There is a group of young Danish designers who started an Internet collective which has, for instance, become very popular in Japan.

Which important trends do you predict for the next few years?

In general, I think there will be a revival of casual fashion, which will lead us away from formal clothing, especially the dress.

I don't think it will disappear completely, but it will have less influence. This signals better economic times ahead, as the dress is always associated with poor economic data. This new form of active and casual wear will have a strong performance character with special details, almost like survival clothing or equipment for hiking, biking, and camping.

For me, fashion that derived from outdoor clothing is really new.

It has changed enormously. It was fairly simple at the start: three main trends with 15 main colours and mood boards. It was a good way to organise it. Now I produce concept books from which I extract a keyword and an idea, which I then turn into 15 or more trends. This decision has changed my life significantly.

I now give more guidance and thereby take higher personal risks. Just recently, I predicted a trend for the summer that was solely based on grey. It was 14 shades of grey and all stories were centred on that colour, including topics such as rain and floods.

The trend forecasts of today are more anthropological, more sociological, and more philosophical than they used to be. The work is becoming more political and committed.

In what sense?

Well, you are fighting against wastefulness and trying to motivate your customers to consider better and more efficient products. You try to persuade them to make the right choice regarding materials and you encourage them to more accountability.

How much do you travel?

Quite a lot‌ I'd say I travel almost half of the year, mainly because my customers are spread out all over the globe. Travelling is still beautiful, but sometimes it's too much. I have learned to live the life of a nomad, a super nomad even. I have learned to be able to work everywhere. And I have also learned to feel at home wherever I am at that moment.

What does home mean to you?

Nowadays I am my own home.

I have developed a number of skills in that respect. During a long flight, the cabin turns into my office. Basically, I no longer need a permanent location anymore. That is really new for me. www.edelkoort.com

style in progress 214

056 WHAT'S THE STORY

214 style in progress

WHAT'S THE STORY 057 CITY PLANNING

New Life It’s a U-turn. After the threat of German city centres becoming desolate was discussed for many years, the situation looks completely different now.

The industry has learned that vertical concepts and mono-label stores can co-exist alongside individual concepts. However, the new challenge is to withstand rising rental fees and the increasing commercialisation in prime locations to obtain an attractive sector mix within the retail industry. Companies have decided to no longer solely rely on the city administration in this respect. They take their fate into their own hands and create a microcosm of coherent lifestyle worlds, where those who suit each other join forces.

From a bird’s-eye view one can identify the urban development potential of a quarter especially well: In Frankfurt upon Main one luxury shopping project chases the next. © ECE, Skyline Plaza Frankfurt

style in progress 214

058 WHAT'S THE STORY CITY PLANNING

New shopping streets are having lasting effects on the character of inner city areas.

Kö-Bogen - the new centrepiece of Düsseldorf - is a prime example. The prestige project that opened its doors to the public in October 2013 gives the city a touch of luxury.

Text: Ina Köhler.

Photos: Breuninger, die developer

Düsseldorf Glass and Travertine Landmarks Düsseldorf ’s open shopping Sunday in October 2013 was a little reminiscent of the clearance sales during the economic miracle era.

Thousands of onlookers gathered in front of the new Breuninger branch in the recently opened Kö-Bogen centre to patiently wait for their opportunity to storm the 15,000 square metre department store. Two hours later the crowd had grown even more, leading to restricted movement. “The escalators are a bottleneck”, Christian Witt, the director of corporate communications, explained. He was visibly thrilled by the onslaught experienced by his employer.

“Are they all at Kö-Bogen?”, one shop assistant asked while wondering about the sparse trickle of customers making their way to the southern end of the “Königsallee” on a normally busy Sunday.

Yes, everyone was eager to see the prestige project of star architect Daniel Liebeskind, even though it was only partially opened that

day. A few weeks earlier a rather spectacular fire had crippled half the construction site and had destroyed the stores of Joop and Windsor. It had also prevented the timely opening of shops run by the likes of Graf von Faber-Castell, Laurèl, Apple, Strenesse, Porsche-Design, and Hallhuber.

This much interest and curiosity in a half-finished building is definitely not commonplace.

On the other hand, this real estate project with an investment volume of 400 million Euros and a four-year construction time is anything but ordinary. Dirk Elbers, the mayor of Düsseldorf, even described it as the project of the century. One thing is certain, from a city planning point of view the new centre shifts the luxury location focus from the “Königsallee” to the north towards the “Hofgarten” area.

Another major project is closely connected with Kö-Bogen: the new “Werhahn” underground railway line and the relocation of

one inner city road to below the ground. Initially there were long controversial discussions whether the Centipede, a landmarked elevated road on stilts that divided this particular area, should be demolished or not. However, the excavators rolled up in April 2013, the traffic around the new Kö-Bogen was moved underground, and the Centipede was history. It is clearly evident that the inner city’s architectural cornerstones from various decades - for instance the Dreischeibenhaus, the Schauspielhaus, and the Richard Meier Weltstadthaus of P&C - can now be appreciated more in their new role as the setting for the Kö-Bogen.

The glass, steel, and travertine building designed by American architect Daniel Liebeskind is an additional landmark. He himself described Düsseldorf as one of the most elegant cities he has ever visited. His contribution is - in this case - not a museum like in Berlin, but a luxurious shopping temple. Somehow this is typical for the city on the shores of the Rhine.

Think Big

Inner city prestige project - the Kö-Bogen shifts the focal point of “Königsallee” northwards and creates a connection to the “Hofgarten” area.

214 style in progress

“In our eyes Düsseldorf is a city that has developed positively; for us it is a highly attractive location”, Willy Oergel, the chairman of Breuninger’s management board, confirms.

Breuninger is the largest tenant in the Kö-Bogen and the department store group from Swabia definitely wasn't afraid of thinking big. “We wanted to introduce Düsseldorf to a new concept. I think it gives the city an additional burst of development. However, we don’t perceive ourselves as a luxury department store, but focus on the medium-range quality market instead.”

Nevertheless many parts of the Breuninger product range come from the high price segment; it includes brand shops with items

by Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Longchamps,

WHAT'S THE STORY 059 CITY PLANNING

1

2

3

1 | Mayor Dirk Elbers, architect Daniel Liebeskind, and Breuninger chairman Willy Oergel on the red carpet during the official opening ceremony.

2 | A proven mix of retail, gastronomy, and offices defines the tenant structure of the new Kö-Bogen.

3 | The Kö-Bogen offers luxury labels without housing a luxury department store - Breuninger focuses on designer brands alongside mid-market quality.

Michael Kors, and Boss. The air is rather thin above this level.

In between the customers find mid-market brands such as Liebeskind, Zadig & Voltaire, Brax, Boss Women, Strenesse, Marc Cain, and Marc O’Polo.

The ground floor houses a large beauty section with products by Aveda, Chanel, Tom Ford, La Mer, and La Prairie. The basement is reserved for high-end shoes by - among others - Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, and Jimmy Choo. This seems to be a recipe for success in a city that is not exactly deprived of luxury items.

Breuninger also offers additional services like a tailor shop for men and women, as well as personal shopping.

“Breuninger is always on the lookout for new inspiration to make our houses exciting and provide a regional anchor. We have a great interest in being a part of a city’s culture and life”, Oergel explains. This desire is underlined by co-operations with local institutions such as the Fortuna Düsseldorf football club and the Kunstsammlung NRW art museum. The residents, who were plagued by construction site noise, dirt, and changing traffic routing, can finally breathe freely again. It now seems insignificant that Marc O’Polo sued the landlord because of the building site and that P&C suffered construction-related water damage, mainly because it is now becom-

ing apparent that the Kö-Bogen will not only be a new landmark for the city, but also a new trans-regional point of attraction with possibly as much appeal as the harbour. It will make many people from surrounding areas curious, from which competitors will ultimately benefit too.

The competitors have been doing their homework. Kaufhof an der Kö invested no less than four million Euros in upgrading its 21,000 square metre flagship department store, which is within eyeshot of the new landmark. In exchange the store located on “Berliner Allee” will close in 2014 due to a lack of sufficient customer frequency. P&C already expanded its

store on “Schadowstrasse” early 2013. Hermès, Ludwig Reiter, and Max Mara, who were pushed into the background by construction vehicles and fences, can now profit immensely from the vastly improved location.

The laterally merging “Schadowstrasse” will also return to being an important inner city shopping street when the last excavators have disappeared. Mango has already secured some retail space there and other retailers are sure to follow suit.

style in progress 214

060 WHAT'S THE STORY CITY PLANNING

1

2

3

Frankfurt’s retail scene is booming - new shops, new quarters, new challenges. Frankfurt is an international city balancing the tension between commerce and individualism.

Text: Rebecca Espenschied.

Photos: Cadman Real Estate Marketing, Christoph Lison

214 style in progress

Frankfurt Between Worlds The dynamics and changes within the Frankfurt retail scene are visible, both in the various districts and the city centre itself.

2.5 million people live within Frankfurt’s catchment area.

Furthermore, the city attracts international visitors, mainly through trade shows and tourism in general. In 2012, Frankfurt registered 4.3 million overnight

stays, of which 1.9 million were international guests. This means the metropolis on the shores of the Main river is one of Germany’s most international cities.

Brands and corporations have recognised the attractiveness of the location. Inditex started with Bershka in 2012, while Pull & Bear opened in the new Skyline Plaza this year. The same location

is also the home of the first Mango Kids and Laura Kent stores in Germany. On the “Zeil” - which is Frankfurt’s top shopping mile in terms of frequency and sales one recently witnessed the start of the German expansion of American lifestyle brands such as Hollister and New Era. The luxury quarter known as “Goethestrasse” is currently also

WHAT'S THE STORY 061 CITY PLANNING

4

1 | Frankfurt’s “Zeil” district is one of Germany’s most popular shopping streets after its revitalisation over the last few years.

2 | Ardi Goldman and his business partner Hakan Temür in their store named The Listener.

3 | The One Goetheplaza centre will house large luxury labels such as Louis Vuitton and Escada.

4 | The various concept stores in the new trend quarter MA* promise truly unique shopping experiences.

experiencing numerous renovations and relocations of exclusive brands. Additionally, the “One Goetheplaza” is being created in the immediate vicinity. Anchor tenant Louis Vuitton will operate on 1,500 square metres of luxury retail space there. The list of tenants also includes Escada, Omega, and Nespresso.

Urban District Centres and New Utilisation Concepts

Why is Frankfurt becoming increasingly interesting as a retail location? What is the special charm of the metropolis on the shores of the Main river? “Almost every ongoing project in the city shows a trend towards a mixed

urban utilisation”, says Melanie Goebel, the project leader of the retail and centre concepts in Frankfurt. “The retail industry acts as a magnet and forms the social structure of a city together with services, catering, gastronomy, and sport and entertainment venues.” Silvio Zeizinger, the chief executive of regional trade association Handelsverband Hessen-Süd, has a similar view: “City development requires holistic and sustainable ideas. The shopping experience is becoming increasingly important - also in terms of urban utilisation structures - and can therefore become the centre of life. Urban centres offer just that.”

One of these urban centres is the “Ostend” district of Frankfurt, which is considered to be the most significant development area near the city centre. The former industrial and port area has been transformed into a new trend district. Offices, clubs, bars, and restaurants have moved into the area over the last few years, thereby turning the formerly rather dull “Hanauer Landstrasse” into a creative district with approximately 1,450 companies.

The driving force behind this transformation process is the local real estate developer Ardi Goldman. He was the first to notice the urbanity vacuum in the

city’s periphery, recognised the potential, and realised projects such as the Union Centre and the Goldman 25hours hotel.

“Create a Liveable City!”

The Frankfurt-based investor’s most recent project was realised in the area formerly occupied by the diamond exchange. The new trend quarter MA*, which opened in August, offers space for loft offices, wellness facilities, and eight individual retail concepts on twelve floors. Goldman’s vision is to ensure that the city remains liveable. “A functioning and urban city centre is a highly significant contributing factor in that respect. This is why I would style in progress 214

062 WHAT'S THE STORY CITY PLANNING

1

The roof of the Skyline Plaza offers leisure activities to complement the shopping experience. ©ECE Projektmanagement GmbH & Co. KG

2

1 | The display window makes you hungry for more - Hayashi shows how individual looks are created.

2 | Kerstin Görling: “I want to do one thing: surprise my customers with fashion.”

214 style in progress

like to strengthen the individual retail scene in the city centre.

It depends on a lively network of art, culture, entertainment, gastronomy, and retail trade”, Goldman explains. He believes the solution is to revive B-grade locations with qualified and architecturally ambitious spatial concepts. It is vital to develop unique models that promise emotional shopping experiences and therefore stand apart from the masses and e-retailing. Goldman teamed up with Hakan Temür, the chief executive of the Offenbach-based fashion agency Brainpool, to realise the concept store named The Listener in the MA*. The two businessmen stocked the store with labels such as Stone Island, Nanamica, Denham, Howlin, and Harris Wharf London. The furnishing specialists BoConcept and Design House Stockholm can be found in close vicinity within the same complex alongside the fashion stores Tutto and Crestline Men. “Discover Worlds” is the slogan of Lieblings, the second concept store in MA* that offers a broad range of high fashion, as well as flowers, cosmetic products, and literature.

“Individual and Progressive Looks that Surprise”

Concepts stores such as Uebervart, Frida, B47, and Hayashi are also contributors to a trend against mono-label shops. These stores boast a highly individual product range and have been successful in Frankfurt for many years. The shopping experience is mainly focused on creating

a personal atmosphere and allowing the customer to discover truly special items. A careful and incisive product range composition with international trend labels like Acne, Kenzo, Comme des Garçons, Isabel Marant, and Our Legacy allows the concept stores to stand their ground against the mono-label stores on the “Zeil”, in “Goethestrasse”, and in the shopping centres. “Up until now Frankfurt didn’t have much to offer between the luxury stores and retail chains. My customers want personal advice and individual progressive looks that surprise”, Hayashi’s Kerstin Görling stresses.

Between Worlds

“Discover Worlds” - the motto of the Lieblings concept store in the new trend quarter MA* could also be the motto of the new Frankfurt. The city has integrated new quarters, makes an urban utilisation mix tangible, embraces commerce, but nevertheless leaves enough space for more individual concepts. All this creates a suction effect that creates the boom Frankfurt is currently experiencing. The city is suspended between the worlds of dynamic growth and destructive oversupply. Between worlds?

Between worlds.

Urbanity and Commerciality in Frankfurt’s Shopping Centres The Skyline Plaza, Frankfurt’s fifth shopping centre, only recently opened its doors to the public.

The centrally located area between the trade show venue, the main railway station, and the banking district has developed into a completely new city district over the last few years known as the “Europa Viertel”. The Skyline Plaza is destined to be the heart and soul of this new district. 170 stores spread out over 38,000 square metres of retail space in September. The anchor tenants are fashion chains such as H&M, Zara, and P&C, as well as the electronics retailer Saturn. The centre also tries to offer its visitors new shopping experiences.

The American-style mall boasts innovative store designs and houses Frankfurt’s largest food court, as well as the Skyline Garden.

The latter is a 7,300 square metre rooftop garden with entertainment facilities that appeal to all generations: wellness, football, chess, and playgrounds.

The retail industry of the inner city centre is focusing on more individual concepts to retain its customers. The modernised Zeilgalerie, which has been struggling since the opening of the adjacent MyZeil shopping centre in 2009, promises new shopping experiences. After implementing a revitalisation concept, the Zeilgalerie now offers a newly designed rooftop terrace, a premium movie theatre, and an indoor mini golf course.

Frankfurt could soon welcome its sixth shopping centre. There are plans to establish a harmonious balance of working and leisure areas around the European Central Bank in the “Ostend” district by creating new residential space, an extensive local supply concept, and numerous leisure facilities. One of the projects that has already been realised is the 40,000 square metre “Hafenpark”, which was opened in the summer. Projects in the planning phase include the “Schwedler Carrée” with office and retail areas, as well as the “Mainsquare”, a 82,000 square metre shopping centre with cinema, gastronomy, and offices.

WHAT'S THE STORY 063 CITY PLANNING

Munich/Brienner Quartier The New Quarter for Traditional Companies Joseph von Utzschneider, a former deputy mayor of Munich, would be regarded as an urban visionary today. In 1812, he laid the foundations for an individual high-quality sector mix with a coherent lifestyle concept in the northernmost corner of Munich’s city centre.

Text: Isabel Faiss.

Photos: Nicole Wawrzinek

A city district concept that does not rely on coincidence to achieve its high quality offering and exciting industry mix, but relies on committed management board members such as Tina Schmitz: the “Brienner Quartier” surrounding the historic Café Luitpold on the outskirts of Munich’s city centre.

The “Luitpoldblock” is like a solid rock amidst the magnificent buildings of the “Brienner Quartier”, which covers an area spanning from “Odeonsplatz”, over “Maximiliansplatz”, and all the way back to the “Literaturhaus”. It is dominated by historic facades and brass fittings on doors that mostly carry the nameplates of notaries, doctors, and law firms. The “Brienner Quartier” is the silent and unobtrusive embodiment of long-established Munich luxury, which presents itself here in an interesting blend of modernity and tradition. However, the special feature is not the elegant appearance of the quarter, but rather the signal effect it has for the whole city. While the landlords of buildings in prime locations charge exorbitant rental fees and thereby favour international chains as tenants while simply leaving their direct neighbours to deal with the consequences, the

owners of buildings within the “Brienner Quartier” sat down for talks years ago. The result is a neighbourhood concept focused on an exciting mix of high-end brands from the fashion, art, lifestyle, and gastronomy industries that is aimed at increasing the frequency of attractive customers and at establishing the area as both an upscale shopping district and a brand in its own right.

“We still have a long way to go.

With professional assistance, we want to develop a concept that allows us to represent ourselves as a brand in order to reach an international audience. We have a lot of tourism in this street, but only very few visitors are aware of the fact that they are in the ‘Brienner Quartier’”, explains Barbara Weber, the marketing officer of the area, to illustrate what a vital role the image of the quarter plays for the most important target group, namely Munich’s residents.

Marika and Paul Buchner, the parents of the current “Luitpoldblock” owner Tina Schmitz, began to actively promote the modernisation of the district many years ago. In 2007, ten to twelve property owners and a few tenants founded an association named Verein Brienner Quartier.

Only two properties, which are the only ones that are no longer owner-managed, are not part of the project. The driving forces in the association’s management board are Tina Schmitz and Manfred Böll, who push many topics and projects in a constant dialogue with the tenants. The first measure of the association was an individual Christmas lights project. The quarter now also has its own Easter events, an advent calendar, and a literature festival. The association has more than 100 members, who all pay a membership fee. The fee for tenants depends on the size of the company and the number style in progress 214

064 WHAT'S THE STORY CITY PLANNING

The heart and soul of the “Brienner Quartier” is the “Brienner Strasse”, which is populated by traditional companies such as Ed Meier on the one side, and modern brand stores such as Closed on the other.

of employees, while the fee for the properties is calculated on a square metre basis. The tenant members include traditional companies such as the porcelain manufacturer Nymphenburg, Galerie Bernheimer, and shoe manufacturer Ed Meier, but also 214 style in progress

brands such as Closed, Woolrich, Missoni, and the ski boots and sport equipment specialist Ertl/ Renz. “We have very pragmatic criteria regarding the selection of our tenants. For instance, we don’t want retail chains, but actively seek out owner-managed

companies that have a similar value system to ours. In addition to a sense for sustainability, this also includes the understanding that financial aspects are not always the priority and that one needs to focus on the bigger picture”, explains Tina

Schmitz, who picks appropriate tenants with a lot of tact and patience. Sometimes she will even approach specific brands and companies herself. “A lot of our daily business is based on personal recommendations. Ertl/ Renz is such an example. Sven

WHAT'S THE STORY 065 CITY PLANNING

1

2

1 | In 2012, the Woolrich Store moved into the ground floor of the “Luitpoldblock” to the left of Café Luitpold.

2 | Tina Schmitz (left), a shareholder in “Luitpoldblock” and a board member at the “Brienner Quartier” association, believes it is vital to have close ties to the tenants. Here she is pictured at the opening of the Woolrich store with Henrik Soller and his wife.

3 | The area around the picturesque “Amiraplatz” has been populated by companies such as the porcelain specialist Maison Noble by Christofle and the furniture store Home by Asa.

3

Renz was recommended as a candidate by an existing tenant.

We’d rather wait a little longer to find the right candidate than operate via a real estate agent. All our tenants are hand-picked.”

Smart People Think Ahead

While Munich’s luxury mile “Maximilianstrasse” is struggling to compensate the exodus of owner-managed luxury products suppliers, the “Brienner Quartier” is enjoying a period of growth. The owners know that values such as stability, sustainability, and fairness maintain the quality of their neighbourhood.

This naturally requires that choosing tenants is not based on the highest offers, but on who fits into the concept. Florian Ranft and Henrik Soller were such perfect fits. Their Woolrich store moved into the space next to Café Luitpold on the ground floor in September 2012. “Woolrich saw ‘Brienner Strasse’ as its favoured location. Luckily, Mrs Schmitz approached us because she is a fan of the brand herself.

We noticed that we felt at home within the whole concept. We believe the great advantages are the planning certainty and the

knowledge that the direct market environment will not experience a loss of sophistication over the years. Quite the opposite, the environment is getting more demanding”, Florian Ranft says.

The role that the “Luitpoldblock” plays as a microcosm within the “Brienner Quartier” could be a symbol for future developments. A city district that creates its own concept to ensure that its tenants enjoy an attractive environment, fair business conditions, and reliability, as well as a common framework that defines a value system while still leaving enough leeway for individuality. Nobody needs to adapt; everyone remains true to themselves. And yet there is a brand above all that, uniting what already fits together anyway.

style in progress 214

066 WHAT'S THE STORY

The Blue Fire spring/summer collection 2014 photo shoot conveys the new brand strategy. At the centre are natural and strong women, as the core target group of Blue Fire is the modern woman over 30, who places high requirements on her brand.

"We Occupy a Niche" Blue Fire. The starting position of the Blue Fire brand was a luxury problem; it was already a product with excellent performance and constantly increasing revenue. What it lacked, however, was the necessary brand name and brand awareness.

With Frank Gรถtz as sales director and Oliver Mewald as communications advisor, the company entered a challenging year which ended with 30% growth, a professional marketing strategy, and a clearly defined target group.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Blue Fire

214 style in progress

When Frank Gรถtz, the former managing director of Firetrap in Germany, joined the Blue Fire brand as sales director in January 2013, he kick-started a conceptual chain reaction within the company Sejour Moden GmbH in Neuss. "I came from a world where much more significance was placed on brand awareness.

The initial position was that we had a product with excellent performance and a strong standing in the retail market. During the brand re-launch we initially focused on a target group that is currently being widely neglected by the industry, namely fashionable women from 30 years of age upwards." At first glance it sounds paradoxical that this strategy was aimed at occupying a niche market. Frank Gรถtz was quite aware that he would not be the only one fishing for this particular target group, but he saw a niche opening due to the continuing industry negligence in this market area. "Few understood that these customers have evolved. They are increasingly demanding and fashion conscious. It isn't enough to simply raise the waistline a little.

It involves providing a perfect fit and, according to the figures, that is where we get it right. In 2013 alone we have experienced growth of 30% and, due to this reorientation, we are recording continuous growth in the retail market."

For strategic brand development and creative direction, Blue Fire recruited Oliver Mewald and Oliver Daxenbichler. "Our approach was to give the brand an identity and a unique market position. To achieve this, we had to first sharpen our profile, as until now - it was defined by our product quality alone", explains Oliver Mewald, who is also the owner of Krauts PR Studio 02 in Munich. The first step - alongside developing a new text/image logo for Blue Fire - was the launch of a new website and the implementation of the spring/ summer 2014 photo shoot.

"With the new brand appearance we are appealing to a woman with a zest for life who places great importance on quality, high grade washings, and the perfect fit, but who also wants to feel visually and emotionally comfortable."

The new brand strategy has, among other things, worked as a door opener for Blue Fire. "We currently have 800 customers in Germany and Austria; the new brand design is gaining further customers from the premium segment", explains Frank Gรถtz, who believes that the collection is ideally positioned in both fashionable core departments and alongside LA premium denim labels in fashion stores under the "modern woman" genre. "As product specialists with an authentic statement and

perfect fits, we attract more frequency to the floors of modern women's fashion stores. With our high quality standards and style statements, I see our brand on par with LA premium labels and brands like Drykorn, Boss Orange, and Closed. However, we have a different price-performance ratio. With a calculation ratio of 2.8, our prices range from 79 to 129 Euros."

The brand Blue Fire was founded in 2007 as a private label of the company Sejour Moden GmbH based in Neuss. In January 2013, Frank Gรถtz came on board as the new sales director.

The brand has approximately 800 customers in Germany and Austria; it recorded a revenue growth of 30% in 2013. www.bluefire-jeans.com

WHAT'S THE STORY 067

For Living Legends Nabholz. What do you do with a label that enjoys cult status, but is currently perceived as boring and completely run down? The answer is fairly simple: you reinvent it!

Text: Dörte Welti.

Photos: Sven Hoffmann

The late 1960s were quite a turbulent era - hippie culture, the threat of war, men on the moon, the Prague Spring, and the assassinations of Martin Luther King and Robert F. Kennedy. We also witnessed the legendary Olympic Games in Mexico, which were the first to be staged in a developing country, the first to be covered by the media on a large scale, and during which world records were set that remain in place today. Nabholz found itself at the heart of that era. Founded in 1821 as a sportswear company, Nabholz was at its peak in 1968, when the Swiss brand was the official supplier of no

Chief executive Andreas Caduff prefers to remain in the background and lets his jackets do the talking.

less than eleven national sports teams. This may sound like the perfect start to a worldwide career, but it ended in tears for the company based in Schönenwerd.

Nabholz was sold several times, a bunch of bad decisions were made, and the company had no clear strategy going forward.

Nabholz was declared bankrupt in 1992. It seemed the company had come to the end of the road, but only until Andreas Caduff came across the dormant label.

The now 40-year-old Swiss has already achieved a great deal in the textile industry. During his geography studies he jobbed for Adidas and Salomon Group; he also dabbled in market research, re-launch, distribution, marketing, and trade marketing.

Furthermore, he can look back on three years of experience at a large Japanese conglomerate, where he was responsible for the fabric development and jacket production for prime European customers - definitely enough to be astute when it comes to product development.

In the Beginning There Were Jackets

Nabholz was love at first sight.

“I had a vision about where I wanted the label to be”, Caduff recalls the beginning of the story three years ago. He knew that the brand needed to be reinvented completely to be a success. Andreas Caduff was tempted by the challenge and could, for the first time, use his wealth of experience for a single project - from fibre development to trade marketing. The profile of individuals who wear Nabholz does not include boasting about ethics and sustainability, which are taken for granted in this case.

The market is taking the bait.

Caduff started off with a collection consisting of jackets only.

The chief executive himself spoils the retail industry by offering every partner sales material that is individually tailored to the needs of every single partner and Caduff strongly believes in the effect of product-related training.

He offers a clear positioning which is currently embraced by 50 top retailers in Germany,

The thick padded models are designed to withstand Arctic temperatures and the fabrics truly live up to those expectations.

Austria, Switzerland, and the Netherlands, as well as one store each in Tokyo and Moscow. They have all understood the concept and some of them are reliable partners willing to strengthen the brand right from the start.

Take the Label Personally

“I am the product”, says Andreas Caduff while putting on one of his brand’s items and praising its advantages. You automatically believe what he says and it doesn’t seem boastful at all. The jackets are well thought through and the term “all seasonality” is mentioned regularly. When the Formula 1 team of Peter Sauber was in need of an official team clothing supplier, Caduff was at the ready with good advice and secured an option for truly legendary times. “Are you legend?”, Nabholz asks on its website and clearly also refers to itself. It is a

legendary brand that reinvents itself in its own special way and takes all the time it needs to do so. Caduff has drafted a five year plan that includes an expansion of the collection and it seems everything is on track. If Caduff pulls it off, then one has to ungrudgingly accept that Nabholz truly has the potential to become a legend.

Nabholz Sport AG Herzogenmühle 18 8304 Wallisellen/ Switzerland T 0041.44.4415360 a.caduff@nabholz1821.com www.nabholz1821.com

style in progress 214

068 WHAT'S THE STORY

Game, Set, Match MAB Modeagentur Benabou. Everything was on track for a successful tennis career, but then Regis Benabou decided to try his luck in the fashion industry.

Self-evidently this was the right decision. Today he is successful at the highest level with his distribution agency MAB in Düsseldorf.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos:: Peter Schaffrath, brand

The old Kenzo Villa in Düsseldorf's "Kaiserswerther Strasse" is well-known under that name in the entire industry. The venerable building is now the headquarters of the fashion agency MAB. Agency owner Regis Benabou has an interesting history. Born in Los Angeles as the son of German mother and French father, he moved to Germany with his family a few years later. At the age of twelve he managed to break into Munich's best tennis club. Three years later - in 1995 - he relocated to Düsseldorf, where his mother, Helga Benabou, took up a job as a distributor of women's outerwear for Kenzo. When a series of injuries ended a tennis career that had taken him as far as the junior tournament in Wimbledon, it was time to reconsider his future. So Benabou decided to pursue his second major interest: fashion.

After a year as a trainee at Kenzo, he began to distribute accessories on the German market, includ-

ing women's belts by Kenzo. He did well, which soon led to him being offered the distribution of Givenchy's secondary line for men for the entire German market. When the Düsseldorf branch of Kenzo was closed down in 2003, he was handed the women's collection by Kenzo as well as that of Givenchy.

Brand Architecture

Today MAB is a strong position with a portfolio of brands from the "First Brand" and "Contemporary" segments.

Additionally, the agency added a few "Total Look" niche labels a few seasons ago. "I don't want to serve a different clientele, but would like to cover the entire bandwidth of demands for my customers", Benabou stresses.

For that purpose MAB has, for example, added BLK DNM by Johan Lindeberg to its portfolio, followed by Opening Ceremony, the own line by two Kenzo designers. "Both collections have enormous potential and will

Agency owner Regis Benabou: "I only represent collections that I can identify with 100%."

214 style in progress

give us an extra push forward", Regis Benabou explains. Other newcomers are luxury sneakers

by National Standard, the Fame on you line, and Mackage, the Canadian jacket specialist.

Regis Benabou believes that his years as a professional tennis player were the best training possible for the fashion industry.

He learned how to organise his affairs early. Today, his agency has ten full-time employees and has a structured back office including PR and brand scouting units. His mother, Helga Benabou, heads the sales department.

Fun and Risk

Regis Benabou has the ability to win over people, is open to new ideas, and has the sportsmanlike ambition necessary to be successful. The success certainly proves him right. The last two seasons were the agency's strongest in terms of turnover, whereby he is realistic enough to never take his eyes off the net profit.

"The work has become more risky, but it's great fun", he says.

"I wouldn't want to choose any other career."

Agentur MAB Modeagentur Benabou Düsseldorf/Germany Owner: Regis Benabou Chief Executive: Regis Benabou 10 employees (plus 5 during the season) Showroom Düsseldorf: 900 sqm Trade show presence: Berlin: Premium, Paris: Showrooms, Düsseldorf: Showroom, Munich: Premium Labels: Ba&sh, BLK DNM, Costume National, CostumeNemutsoC, Elie Saab, Emanuel Ungaro, Fame on you, Fendi, Givenchy, Kenzo, Mackage, Matthew Williamson, National Standard, Opening Ceremony, Paul & Joe, Paul & Joe Sister www.mab-fashion.com

WHAT'S THE STORY 069

The portfolio of D端sseldorf-based fashion agency MAB consists of highly fashionable designer brands that are in the process of gathering new momentum.

style in progress 214

070 WHAT'S THE STORY

Marcus Meyer was - among other roles - the European commercial director for Induyco/El Corte Ingles in Madrid, as well as the chief executive of Benetton Group's operations in German-speaking countries for nine years. Most recently he successfully established the brand Geox in German-speaking countries from 2003 to 2010.

Above the Clouds Highline United Europe.

The headquarters on the ninth floor indicate the direction this company is heading.

Marcus Meyer, the CEO and president of Highline United Europe, is literally observing the world from the top. In no more than two years, the subsidiary of China-based Max Oriental Group has disproportionately grown into an internationally renowned shoe company with its own production plants, a group revenue of 330 million Euros, and a portfolio of six brands.

Text: Isabel Faiss.

Photos: Highline United Europe

214 style in progress

Mr Meyer, after successfully developing the Geox brand, you were eager to become self-employed. What was so tempting when J.C. Chiang, the chairman of China-based Max Oriental Group, approached you with the task of founding Highline United Europe?

When J.C. Chiang invited me to his showroom in New York, I was fascinated. I was very interested in the structure of the group, with its own production plants in China, a well established international network of designers and external production facilities, and - above all - a highly solid cost structure. I found the challenge interesting because of the appealing brand portfolio consisting of highend designer brands and a large proportion of private labels.

Max Oriental Group initially emerged from the private level segment and only developed into

a company with own brands over time. In November 2011, I then founded Highline United Europe GmbH in Munich, followed by Highline United Europe Ltd. as a parent entity in London in April 2012.

Intellectually one does not automatically associate China with premium shoes.

The Chinese market has developed quite significantly. China is the ideal environment for our quality demands because of the high levels of know-how. We are - so to speak - the prime example that "Made in China" is a quality feature. The Max Oriental Group production plants meet the highest ethical, ecological, and social standards. This is what ultimately convinced me of the company.

The private label business was the cornerstone of Max Oriental Group. Which part does it play in the European business today?

It's our second mainstay. We are highly successful in this segment with major clients such as Marks & Spencer. We are in talks with further companies in England and Germany. Due to our vast experience and knowhow regarding production, we can offer our customers full service that goes well beyond the product itself. They can profit from our international pool of creative teams and designers, as well as benefit from the fact that our own brands act as early trend barometers in the market. We already supply Marks & Spencer with a number of shoe pairs that is well in the seven digit range, and counting. On a global scale the private label/own brands proportion is nearly 50:50. In Europe we still have a large emphasis on own brands.

Max Oriental Group now has four subsidiaries. Alongside Highline United Europe those are Highline United US, High-

WHAT'S THE STORY 071

The New York-based designer brand Elie Tahari is distributed

by Highline United in America and Europe on a license base.

line United Asia/China, and Highline United Asia/Pacific.

To what extent do you utilise synergy effects within the group?

Most synergy effects relate to the production process and our brand portfolios, which obviously also leads to a certain extent of overlap. However, that differs from brand to brand depending on the individual ownership structure. Brands such as Ash or Julian Hakes are owned by Max Oriental Group and we run them via a joint venture. French Connection and Elie Tahari are license brands. In the case of French Connection we have the global licence, even though the US business is handled via the US subsidiary. The Italian brand Nylo, which we are launching into the market just now and intend to expand, or Julian Hakes are not in the portfolio of our subsidiaries at all, which means

that we are also responsible for their US business.

You already operate a few brand stores for the Ash label.

Does Highlight United also act as a retailer beyond that?

No. Highline United acts as the family brand, which we communicate within the industry to showcase our portfolio, but which we do not communicate to the consumers. It is our aim to bolster our portfolio with brands that complement each other without cannibalising each other. In this respect we really would be a good multi-brand concept for retail stores, mainly because the customer would find a sophisticated and diversified product range in our shops. Our parent company actually operates isolated multi-brand concepts consisting of the Highline United brand portfolio under the name Villa Rouge in China, but that is not a concept we are

Marcus Meyer has great plans for the global license for the shoe collection by French Connection. The range was so far only present on the English market.

preparing for a global rollout.

My priority is to grow together with our strategic partners and to develop a brand.

Which goals have you set for Europe?

We are currently focusing on the German-speaking markets, followed by England, Italy, and France. We have opened offices in London and Paris to serve these strategically vital markets. In other countries such as Belgium and the Netherlands, in which we have developed very well too, we cooperate with distributors and agencies, just like in the rest of Europe. If I said that we already are where we want to be, I’d be lying.

Especially with the new brands such as French Connection, Nylo, and Luxury Rebel, which we have only just started to develop and establish. We only took over French Connection for the spring/summer collection

The head office of Highline United Europe in Munich may not be the official headquarters, but it is where all main decisions are made.

of 2013. Before that the brand was only present in England.

Our motto is to grow slowly and healthily. The best validation for our philosophy is the fact that many brands approach us to ask whether we could produce their products. This strengthens our belief in our core competence.

What do you perceive as the largest challenges for Highline United Europe over the next few years?

The markets are developing faster - especially fashion themes are implemented faster than before.

One has to be prepared for that and have the right product in the market at the right time. We benefit from having the entire value chain in-house. We can launch a small product series within six weeks. In the end, flexibility is the decisive factor for success.

Highline United is a lifestyle group that specialises in high-end footwear for the premium segment.

J. C. Chiang founded Max Oriental Group in Dongguang in 1994. Between 2009 and 2013 he expanded the group by adding four subsidiaries named Highline United Asia/China, Highline United US, Highline United Europe, and Highline United Asia/Pacific. The group generated 330 million Euros in revenue and employed roughly 8,000 employees worldwide in fiscal 2012.

Highline United Europe brands: Ash, Elie Tahari, French Connection, Julian Hakes, Nylo, Luxury Rebel

style in progress 214

072 WHAT'S THE STORY anzug 2.0

214 style in progress

WHAT'S THE STORY 073

News from the Online Trade

Fashion 2.0 is yesterday's news. Today, apps and entire web shops are making their way into stores, while personal shoppers switch to the Internet. The customers always want everything at once and without delay - while simultaneously awarding stars as ratings. Where will this end? How can we control the chaos among all the future trends in the fashion retail industry? We will try to bring some order to the chaos and will clear up some prejudices in the process‌ Text: Petrina Engelke.

Illustration: Gina MĂźller

New Boys = Bad Boys?!

Welcome to the trenches!

Online shops steal customers and - moreover - they exploit the stationary stores by practising "consultation theft". A lady spends half a day in a store with a shop assistant, tries on a few items of clothing, and then leaves the store without buying anything. However, she goes home and buys online, mainly because web shops don't have to spend a lot of money on rent and employees, and can therefore offer significantly lower prices. Is that how you, dear reader, perceive the situation as well? Well, you couldn't be more wrong.

"The share of sales in online fashion shops preceded by research in stationary retail stores is only 14%", says Anke Tischler, a project manager at ECC Cologne at the German Institute for Trade Research. However, there's more "shocking" news to come. The brave new world of the Internet actually stimulates business in the shopping streets, as a study titled "The Cross-Channel Behaviour of Consumers - Challenges and Opportunities for the Retail Trade" recently revealed.

"Approximately 25% of all purchases in the stationary fashion retail industry are preceded by online research. These purchases account for 31% of all stationary retail revenues."

E-retailing - Always and Everywhere?!

We no longer wait for anything.

Love letters are delivered within

fractions of a second via text messaging services. Hardly anyone still bothers to fill in an order card and search for a stamp, just to then wait for the parcel delivery man to ring the doorbell after an uncertain amount of time. Hang on a minute. We still need to wait for the delivery man anyway! This is one of the major problems that the online retailing trade is currently facing.

"Same Day Delivery" is no longer a sufficient magic formula for the online business. Within the city limits of its hometown Munich, the online fashion pioneer Mytheresa delivers highend international fashion within three hours. After all, we want to have everything immediately.

The term "Instant Gratification" is one of the hottest trends recently identified by futurologists.

In the future, we will not only be able to comfortably purchase goods in web shops from at home, but we will also be able to buy in online magazines. In the US, the credit card provider MasterCard teamed up with the publishing house Conde Nast to develop an app called "ShopThis!", which allows readers of a magazine's tablet issue to click on products or adverts and to then directly purchase the items in question. However, you'll still need to wait for the parcel to be delivered.

The Omnipresent Computer?!

Those who solely focus their strategy on computers are doomed. Mobile Internet usage

- via smart phones and/or tablets - is experiencing tremendous growth. Stores can benefit from this development. "Consumers use their mobile phones to search for products, prices, and outlets", Joelle Kaufmann from BloomReach recently said in the New York Times. Furthermore, fashion enthusiasts enjoy a bit of browsing - not only on their iPads. "Catalogues still play an important role as initiators in the fashion industry", Tischler says. Fashion retail chains such as H&M started publishing their own magazines ages ago. The catalogues can be linked to the respective online shop via QR codes. This can supply invaluable data regarding the success of certain products and campaigns. "It is important that the pages that can be accessed via QR codes are optimised for viewing on smart phones and tablets", Tischler advises.

Good Advice = Personal Dialogue?!

The possibility to browse through fashion web shops with a huge selection of trendy items from all over the globe on a smart phone whenever we feel like it leads to certain longings the longing for some perspective, for instance. The online retail industry struggles to give its customers orientation and therefore turns to celebrities with good taste to make a pre-selection for the mere mortal clientele.

The Coveteur has even based its entire business concept on style in progress 214

074 WHAT'S THE STORY

"Some men don't fancy the prospect of spending the weekend in a department store."

Daniela Struwe puts together complete outfits for men she has never even met.

As a senior stylist at curated fashion supplier Modomoto.com, she selects items for fashion boxes based on survey data. In this interview she explains the main challenges of online fashion consulting.

Mrs Struwe, you style men based on online surveys and phone calls. What is the difference compared to talking to someone in person?

The direct sales talks doesn't happen. We substitute that with a personal style note for every parcel.

This note highlights, for instance, that the outfits can be easily combined with each other or that the berry-coloured chinos are particularly beautiful in autumn.

Have you ever completely misjudged a customer's taste when putting together the first fashion parcel?

We are not immune to being wrong. It can happen that there are different perceptions of the term "trend conscious", for instance. On the other hand, it can also happen that we are too good in reading the customer's taste. Then the client tells us that he already has a lot of the suggested items in his wardrobe.

However, our customers, on average, keep a third of the first fashion parcel's contents.

One of the most common reasons for returns in the general online retail field is that the item didn't fit properly. What do you do to avoid such situations?

We now have a lot of experience with various manufacturers. We know in advance if some trousers are cut a bit smaller than others and we simply select a slightly larger size for the customer.

I can imagine that women tend to select sizes that are a little bit smaller than they would need in reality. Are men the same in that respect?

Some men are the same, yes. Women probably want to flatter themselves a little. I think men tend to select the incorrect size because they are not aware of the correct one. Men don't always know what to do when they are asked for their collar size. They also often don't know their jacket size.

That's where we experts come in to help. Based on international standards and photos, we get a fairly good idea which clothes size and collar size we need to choose.

Let me play the devil's advocate for a moment.

Isn't it simply true that men know absolutely nothing about fashion? (laughs) There are two types of men that use our service. The one group is not really too interested in fashion and just doesn't fancy the prospect of spending the weekend in a department store. One mustn't forget that many people don't live in a large city and therefore don't have direct access to a huge range of fashion brands. The second group is interested in fashion, but sees it as a bonus to get the advice of a stylist and enjoys exploring new angles.

214 style in progress

this approach. The industry also invented "Curated Shopping", which can be described as a fashion-related remote diagnosis.

At US personal styling service KeatonRow.com, a stylist puts together an individual look-book for every customer, from which one can then simultaneously purchase the featured items from various different web shops. This service is currently still free of charge due to the fact that it is financed by online retailers such as Shopbop and Piperlime. Europe has a special variant on offer. At Modomoto, men fill in an online survey that can then - if desired be discussed with a personal stylist. However, it is also possible to simply let the stylist put together a box with eight to twelve items, of which the customers only keep the pieces they actually like.

"Modomoto has discovered a real gap in demand among men that are weary of shopping", founder Corinna Powalla explains. She sees her company's service as an interface between the classic stationary retail industry and e-commerce. This can have an effect on conventional stores.

"In general, I'd like to see a re-orientation", Powalla says.

"I'd like to see the customer return to the centre of attention when it comes to service, both in the stationary and online retail segments."

E-Commerce and Stores Have Clear Boundaries?!

Sure, many stores have an online shop as a satellite, mainly because that is the thing to do today. However, the two

outlets have recently begun to intertwine in the most subtle of manners. For instance, J. Crew asks its employees to check the company's Intranet whether a size that is no longer available in the web shop is still in stock in one of the stationary stores - all this on the bidding of an online customer. US fashion conglomerate Gap goes even further. Alongside web shops for its own fashion chains Gap, Old Navy, and Banana Republic, the conglomerate also founded Piperlime, a web shop that sells external brands. During the New York Fashion Week, a Piperlime pop-up shop suddenly materialised and was so successful that the circle simply had to be completed. Piperlime is now a web shop with a stationary store, in which customers can access the online shop to find out which products - and in which sizes - are currently in stock at the stationary store. That's quite mind boggling, to be honest.

Stylebop, a European online retailer of luxury products, also opened a store towards the end of 2012 and draws customers to Koblenz with clothes that are exclusively available in that stationary outlet.

Stores Are Meant to Sell Products?!

US men's fashion label Bonobos has established itself as a pure online brand based on the idea of supplying well-fitting trousers. "We initially thought it would be possible to do that via the website alone", says Erin Ersenkal, who - in his capacity

Looks like a store, but is something completely different: a "Guideshop" of online label Bonobos in New York.

FASHION WEEK DÜSSELDORF 01.02. – 04.02.2014 | Cinque Showroom | Speditionstraße 17 | Düsseldorf | COLLECTION PRÈMIERE MOSCOW 25.02. – 28.02.2014 ILM 08.03. – 10.03.2014 | GDS 12.03. – 14.03.2014 | Cinque Showroom | Speditionstraße 17 | Düsseldorf CINQUE MODA GMBH | +49 (0)2161 9653 | info@cinque.de | cinque.de | CINQUE SHOES | pluslinks GmbH | +49 (0)2161 308510 | info@pluslinks.de CINQUE BAGS | Roberto Design International GmbH | +49 (0)6751 93500 | info@roberto-design.com

076 WHAT'S THE STORY

as vice president - is responsible for guide shops and planning at Bonobos. "After talking to our customers, we soon noticed that some people prefer to try on the items before purchasing them."

Bonobos subsequently decided to open guide shops in numerous cities across the US. This was the birth of the web shop showroom with exclusive consulting services. On prior appointment, customers can arrive at the shop like a VIP, try on the desired items, and enjoy in-depth product advice. However, one cannot take the items home at once, but has to wait for a parcel to arrive instead. "In a regular store, the staff is normally busy folding and re-stocking items. They can't focus on the most important aspects, namely customer service and satisfaction", Ersenkal explains.

Oh dear! Technology?!

Technology is for nerds, not for sophisticated stores with style.

Those who think like that may need to prepare for a funeral, albeit a stylish one. One reason for an early demise could be that the own website is undecipherable on a smart phone and that nobody within the company actually cares about it. The strategies in the shopping streets differ. Some try to repel technology by disrupting mobile phone reception in order to avoid swift on-site price comparisons, while others equip the entire store all the way into the changing room - with tablets in order to allow customers to search for other colours and sizes, as well as accessories. Some fashion houses even employ a whole army of software developers.

One of the latter is the online retailer Zalando. "Over the last few years, the development of new technologies has become the core competence of Europe's leading e-commerce group", the company announces proudly.

Curated Shopping concepts and the odd new fashion label can even be classified as start-ups.

This is just the beginning! After all, the industry in its old form only just died.

Openness + Codetermination = More Work?!

The fashion world used to be a monarchy. The kings of good 214 style in progress

taste conjured up the newest trends behind closed doors and then allowed the general public to share the experience via a royal household consisting of blue-blooded representatives of the media, purchasing, distribution, and PR departments.

Then the revolution came along.

Today, everyone watches the runway shows via a live stream, visits the stores for "meet & greet" events with designers, and is generally eager to voice an opinion as often as possible. If you mourn the days of old, you may just overlook the many new sources of income. There are a few role models in this respect.

Esprit does not only allow its customers to hand out little hearts to express their feelings, but also asks them to rate the size charts, thereby significantly reducing product returns. The famous vintage and retro fashion

retailer Modcloth does not merely see its more than 100,000 Twitter followers as PR targets.

In the "Be The Buyer" section, the pure online shop presents designs and lets the viewers discuss and vote which products should be included in the range.

This gives the company invaluable information regarding which product groups will work and - more importantly - why they'll work. Stationary stores obviously also value such information.

Even though there is a lot of moaning and groaning about the online competition, everybody is aware that the latter's "shop windows" show which products are sold out and which brands received the highest customer ratings.

A personal note: a package from the curated shopping company Modomoto shows how e-commerce has developed from a mere mail order business to a proper service business.

A Small App Parade The little helpers of the fashion industry - a small selection.

Fits.me

After entering a few measurements and uploading a photo, this app highlights which size would be the perfect fit. It is used by the online shops of brands such as Boss, Mexx, and Ermenegildo Zegna.

Sproov

After entering the size of two jeans that fit, this app calculates the sizes of other models.

It is used - among others - by Stylebop and VeryPoolish.com.

Hukkster

This app alerts the user when desired products are available at a discount. It can be used for brands such as Burberry, Net-aPorter, and Vans.

Snapette

Shopping online is becoming easier, but one still has to wait for the package to be delivered. However, the industry is already working on a solution for that problem.

Based on the user's current position, this app sends photos of products and special offers in nearby stores.

It is - among others - available for Blue & Cream in New York, LN-CC in London, and Yube in Madrid.

Photo by Irene Schaur

078 THE TALK

Under One Roof The PKZ Group has been among Switzerland's largest independent fashion retail companies with multi-brand stores for decades. The group plans to significantly strengthen this position even more by focusing and concentrating on the core values of the brand. Ph. Olivier Burger, the chief executive and owner, tells style in progress about the motives for the new structure and the future vision for the 133 year old family business.

Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: PKZ

Mr Burger, there's quite a bit of movement in your company at the moment. What were the motives for these changes?

The year 2014 is the pinnacle and conclusion of the corporate focusing process that started a few years ago. The priority is the concentration of the retail brands. Until now, we had the six brands PKZ, Feldpausch, Blue Dog, Burger, Look, and Paul Kehl. Over the last summer we decided to focus on two brands, namely PKZ men&women and Paul Kehl. With six brands we had a setup that was too broad for a relatively small market. For a company with an annual turnover of approximately 200 million Swiss Francs, it is almost impossible to position all these brands in a consistent and differentiated manner. We also adapted and merged the management of the company, which resulted in a management board consisting of a head of purchasing with subordinated women's and men's divisions, a head of retail, a head of marketing, and a head of services. It has been streamlined and optimised.

The overlap within the relevant target groups has also increased significantly over the last few years. That was an important criterion for the merging process.

In the past it was unheard of for a young man to shop in the same store as his father!

True‌

Today that's no longer an issue.

A 60 year old woman buys a cool pair of premium jeans, while an 18 year old girl is on the lookout for a modern costume to wear for a job interview. The generation gap no longer plays an essential role. The market has found a new orientation based solely on style groups. PKZ focuses on modern men and women.

What are the aims of this new structure?

We want to be Switzerland's clear number one multi-brand retailer in the medium and upscale price segment. To achieve this, it is important to act as a brand. This does not only apply

to the stationary retail business, but also - and especially - to the strongly growing online business.

That was the real reason for our focusing process, mainly because the multi-channel aspect is becoming increasingly important.

Our online business experienced strong growth last year. In Switzerland today, the online sector contributes six percent to the fashion market as a whole; that figure will rise to between 15 and 20 percent at some point.

When such a large portion of your business is shifted to a different distribution channel, it is vital to be at the forefront of the development right from the start. We will continue to push for further growth in the new year. Furthermore, we have a completely different approach under the new name pkz.ch than we had previously under thelook.com. We now approach the market as a confident Swiss multi-channel company with a high name recognition factor.

This means pkz.ch is your largest branch, so to speak?

That's exactly what it will be, yes.

With the common name PKZ men&women we have a unified line which enables the brand PKZ to profit from the modernisation that the online shop brings to the table. Of course there are larger "Pure Players" than us in Switzerland, but I believe we already are the strongest player in the multi-channel fashion segment. We want to further strengthen this position by focusing on the brand PKZ. Was it an easy decision? After all, brands like Feldpausch have quite a long tradition‌

It was naturally a very emotional discussion. The decision to integrate the Burger product ranges into PKZ men and PKZ women at the "ZĂźrcher Bahnhofstrasse" premises - thereby abandoning the Burger House - was not an easy one either. That was a successful business. However, we strongly believe that - in the long term - we can now offer more competence regarding men's and women's fashion under one roof and that we now have great

opportunities to increase the productivity of our other fashion houses. We are very happy that the Burger team and its extensive base of regular customers was successfully integrated into PKZ men and PKZ women.

That strengthens the competence of both units. We were lucky enough to have three houses on "Bahnhofstrasse" and can now focus on two. If we manage to retain the Burger customers, it is also an economic optimisation for us.

We will have better growth opportunities in the future, if we bring together men's and women's fashion. We have quite a few men's fashion stores with very generous retail areas. We will add suitable women's fashion to those shops. When opening new stores in the future, we will - if there is sufficient space to do so offer women's and men's fashion under one roof under the label PKZ men&women.

The Burger House product range was always more pointed. There were hardly any overlaps with PKZ or Feldpausch. Will the new PKZ men&women concept establish a premium segment to cover the former Burger range?

That is a vital element of our realignment. This enables us to strategically expand our brand and trend competence in the premium segment.

What was the most daunting challenge during this realignment process? After all, it's not like you merely needed to exchange a few signs.

It is quite a historic moment.

After 133 years, PKZ, the clear leader in men's fashion, turns into an umbrella term for women's and men's fashion. We had already considered this step when we took over Feldpausch 17 years ago; and again two years ago when we started our online business. However, the right time for this step is now.

That also has a lot to do with the location Zurich, where we are in the process of investing a two digit million sum in the modifi-

THE TALK 079

Philippe Olivier Burger is leading PKZ Group into a successful future with a precise umbrella brand strategy.

style in progress 214

080 THE TALK

We want to build on the success of the men's collection. Paul Kehl has an excellent team that managed to establish a clear brand positioning: Swiss Sports Club. These three words are the essence of Paul Kehl's values; it is, after all, the oldest fashion brand in Switzerland. It was founded in 1881. We will retain that "Spirit of Swissness" in the women's collection. The two attributes "sports" and "club" naturally have to be interpreted a lot more feminine, more fashionable, and faster. That's the path we have chosen and we are very eager to see where it leads us. Paul Kehl has great growth potential.

the best brands, we can offer our customers all they need under one roof.

2. Our strengths are credible quality and competent service.

The market segments we favour - the mid-range and upscale sectors - appeal to most Swiss residents. The large majority does not merely want cheap fashion or highly expensive brands.

3. Our price-performance ratio has to be excellent at all times.

4. Under the brand PKZ we will become the most competent multi-channel fashion supplier on the Swiss market. With a range of more than 10,000 products online and the options to reserve or exchange goods in our approximately 50 stores, we cover the needs of a modern customer base both online and offline.

5. With Paul Kehl we have an independent brand that is vertical, swift, and highly popular.

Furthermore, it is still exclusively available at PKZ and in our Paul Kehl shops.

The focus on PKZ and Paul Kehl will also enhance the effect of our market communication.

We are looking forward to these exciting changes.

The market has changed quite significantly, not least because of low-price vertical competitors such as H&M or the Inditex Group, who have done an excellent job. There are numerous brands that are doing good business in their own stores; that was hardly the case 20 years ago.

Our main brands Armani, Boss, Diesel, G-Star, and Marc O'Polo, as well as Paul Kehl, have their own stores now. We're in the middle of a natural selection process. You have very capable and fast vertical suppliers in the lowprice segment on the one hand, and top upscale brands that are establishing their own stores on the other. The third factor is the online sector, which is a new channel with high growth rates.

Our answers to these market changes are the following: 1. As a multi-brand supplier with

www.pkz.ch

and our fashion-related positioning. Our larger houses will have a special area reserved for the Burger product ranges, which also offers new perspectives for our purchasers. After all, we would no longer be in business if we hadn't constantly adapted to trends and to the market with innovations in our 133 year history.

You introduced the first women's collection by your brand Paul Kehl last autumn. Is it a success?

Feldpausch turns into PKZ Women. In spring 2014, the flagship store in Zurich‘s „Bahnhofstrasse“ is set to make a statement of intent after an elaborate renovation and with a new product range concept.

cation of the former Feldpausch House. That building will be our flagship store for PKZ women.

It already is the largest women's fashion store in Switzerland, but we will make it even larger.

We are changing the facade, we are increasing the height of the tower, and we are creating new retail space. The grand opening is scheduled for March, which is the perfect time for the company's start into a new era.

The opening will have a major effect on Zurich and that gives us an opportunity to introduce the new concept and to present ourselves with a PKZ men and a PKZ women store in "Bahnhofstrasse". At the same time - also in March - we will also celebrate the opening of ten PKZ women stores in - among other cities - Basel, Bern, St. Gallen, Zug, Glatt, and Lucerne.

Is that a moment when one also considers the product range in general? When one maybe tweaks or sharpens some aspects of it?

214 style in progress

Naturally, yes. There are countless brands out there today and each of them has its own positioning. That is a very challenging situation for multi-label retail industry, which I, however, still see as a very important and sustainable business model due to the high differentiation potential.

Nevertheless, one always has to make sure to avoid becoming too broad. Like with so many things in life, it's all about the balance.

We may generate 80 percent of our revenue with 20 percent of our brands, but the remaining 20 percent are just as vital. A multi-brand retailer will have to create much more surprising shopping experiences in the future and utilise its competence with the best brands under one roof.

Why are the 20 percent trend and fashion so important?

It's vital for testing new brands and creating new trends. We encourage all our purchasers to sniff out new brands and trends.

That's what ensures excitement

Is this current focusing process also a reaction to changed market conditions?

After all, the classic local multi-brand retailers have been under pressure over the last few years from quite a few different angles.

082 THE TALK

Helmut Schlotterer has countless reasons to be happy. His commitment to Germany as a production location turned out to be a success factor.

214 style in progress

THE TALK 083

The Opportunity of Being Different When Helmut Schlotterer founded Marc Cain 40 years ago, there were two things he probably never expected. Firstly, that he would end up back in his hometown Bodelshausen in Swabia. Secondly, that fashion would be sold online. Today, his company generates an annual turnover of 245 million Euros and has a presence in 59 countries. Even these two figures must have felt unattainable in 1973, but there's one resource that the entrepreneur never lacked: courage.

Text: Stephan Huber.

Photo: Tom Campbell

Mr Schlotterer, does a good businessman have to be a philanthropist today?

Actually, I'd say yes. I myself am a follower of Kant's philosophy in principle. On principle - so not out of religious belief because I am scared of hell or because I'm speculating on going to heaven - because I believe it is sensible. It's the categorical imperative, so to speak.

I ask because you are pretty much doing the opposite of everything that one considers to be textbook for international fashion brands and companies. Is this a deliberate plan in the sense of an opposite standpoint?

I'd say I simply think differently.

I have always been different and always had my own different ideas. Ultimately, I was strengthened in my belief that being different is beneficial. I'm not talking about a categorical opposition out of defiance or because of a starry-eyed idealism, which entails an individual charging at walls and rejoicing when he's bruised. I have always been an excellent observer and have always looked very closely at how others do things before putting myself in their position. Most of the time, I came to the conclusion that what the others were doing was actually foolish and complicated. Even as a school pupil I organised processes in my father's business. I simply could not understand why those processes were so complicated and could be so easily simplified in the end. Optimising things has always been one of my strengths.

Nevertheless, cost optimisation regarding material sourcing, production, and personnel does not seem part of Marc Cain's master plan.

After all, you mainly produce in Germany and Europe, which makes the company's highly positive profit situation even more surprising.

Yes, we probably have one of the best in the industry. I experienced some very dark times and financial hardship in the 1970s, where Marc Cain was still a plantlet with an ever-increasing turnover. More turnover costs money. I almost failed to finance my growth back then. However, I also learned a lot from that experience. The only way to success is to have a product that is so good that the market pays the price you want. That's a very simple rule. If you can achieve that price and if that price is sufficient to survive, then your business model works. It's all about offering consumers a product for which they are willing to pay an adequate price. Of course we also consider where we can optimise our costs.

However, we do not pursue that squeezing policy that you feel instantly when you encounter a company funded by private equity. In my capacity as owner and chairman of the board I myself am still very involved in the business and I know what's going on.

I may not handle the day-to-day business anymore, but I can steer, regulate when necessary, and - most of all - point in the right strategic direction. When the right strategic decisions are made and when they are successful as part of a sum of measures a few years down the line, then the income situation will be good.

How do you assess "Made in Europe" in terms of the clothing industry in general?

The cheap production policy started in the 1970s. At first, production moved to Italy, then to Poland and the Czech Republic.

After that, it moved to Hungary and - finally - to Romania. The entire Balkan region was covered.

Even Greece and Portugal had a significant textile industry.

Seeing that the productivity in Europe was unable to keep up with increasing costs, the caravan moved further and further to the East. The horrific conditions

in Bangladesh have been caused by inhumane price pressure and greed. When the price becomes the determining factor, the culture of quality and fair remuneration falls apart. Our policy to keep the production process in Germany - or at least in Europe - is based on high productivity and creativity levels. That is even acknowledged in China.

How important is the Chinese market for Marc Cain?

The Chinese market obviously grows permanently. There we currently have 24 Marc Cain stores, 45 business clients that stock numerous brands, and 24 shop-in-shop outlets. The situation changes very quickly from season to season, mainly because we - like all the other brands - are dependent on the moods of the mall owners, who sometimes decide to change their entire concept from one season to the next. You can suddenly find yourself outside without even knowing why. Nevertheless, it's also a very important market for us. Russia, where we are also experiencing strong growth, is naturally equally important.

However, I have always been surprised in the past by how much growth is still possible in our traditional markets.

At the end of the day that is product-based growth.

I'd say it's more of a predatory competition. The premium market per se and the price segment in which we operate has been dwindling for the last ten years, mainly because the number of customers are not increasing from a demographic point of view. This is why the growth of all brands in this business segment - including our own growth - is actually based on a predatory competition among each other. In a current study conducted by the "Deutscher Fachverlag" our company was the first in the history of said study to win in all 23 categories, which include potential exploitastyle in progress 214

084 THE TALK

tion, brand attractiveness, and trend implementation in line with relevant target groups. The study questioned 150 retailers from the premium segment. I myself was impressed and I felt dizzy thinking about how we can keep those standards. Measured by the difference to the year 2007, we have caught up a 22% increase in goods performance, a 19% increase in fashion performance, and a 44% increase in profit performance. Now that's what I call an excellent development. The retail industry also rated our future potential very positively.

The classic specialised retail industry has been facing a completely different competition situation over the last decade; different to what you were used to during the early years of Marc Cain.

It's becoming increasingly difficult. That is one of our core issues. To be perfectly honest, it would have been difficult to persuade many of the people who joined us from other companies without the crisis of 2007/08 and the bad behaviour of some private equity companies. I am mainly referring to technicians and engineers who know how to produce clothing. We had a problem finding leading engineers and managers with product knowledge who don't merely send an e-mail to Hong Kong, but really know how the production process works. We want to retain our production know-how and avoid any outsourcing.

We've all felt that the frequency has been decreasing over the last two seasons. Everyone is wondering where the customers are. Some say they are in the outlets, because it's cheaper there. For marketing reasons, we had granted many new stores a two to three season long right of return on pre-orders and got back so many goods - potentiated by two below average sales seasons - that even we opened two outlets ourselves. Those have no current items, but only items that are more than a year old and definitely not any cheaper than the products offered by our trading partners. That's the huge disadvantage of operating own stores as a brand. On the one hand, you cash in the calculation twice, because you earn the retail margin too. On the other hand, you end up with a lot of old stock.

Online shopping is becoming increasingly important. Our own web shop shows enormous potential and we cannot simply ignore that. Nevertheless, we still see a lot of potential in stationary retail too, but it needs to come up with more creative solutions.

Business as usual will not be enough to attract customers in the future.

We have reacted and now increasingly train our employees ourselves. There are excellent colleges in the nearby cities of Reutlingen and Sigmaringen, as well as Nagold, where textile business managers are trained.

There are also very good training opportunities for engineers and textile technicians. It's not like the lights have gone out completely. I must also point out that we always get the people we want. Maybe that's down to the fact that we have become more conspicuous. The best idea we've had was to build this building exactly the way you see it now. I was quite baffled by the surprise effect it had on the area. We were suddenly perceived quite differently.

It is difficult to achieve growth with a company, especially when it's well-planned growth that is sustained over many years. Size alone does not save a company. That's why we see other industries, where chairmen boost balance sheets and their own salaries by unrestrained acquisitions, collapse again. Some demanding owner families withdraw too much capital to finance extravagant lifestyles. That leads to house banks refusing previous credit lines, which means that the companies turn to costly bonds. Ultimately, private equity companies acquire a stake in those companies or take them over completely.

You describe innovation as a decisive success factor. Innovation does not only require capital, but also individuals.

How difficult is it to find suitable people today?

How will this develop in the next generation?

214 style in progress

You once described private equity as a plague. Which growth financing possibilities do fashion companies have today?

If you don't want to end up in the headlock of the banks or some investor, you probably need to launch your start-up online. Founding a company the way I did it with Marc Cain is unthinkable today. I merely drove to Italy, produced a few pullovers in some smaller production plant, went to a trade show, assembled some kind of stand made of chipboards and varnished foil, and then drove back to Italy with a few orders in my VW bus to produce some more items.

There have been some very spectacular IPOs in our industry recently. Did you ever think down those lines too?

No. If I listed my company on the stock exchange, I'd have more owners to deal with. That may be a tempting option if you want to cash in and line your own pockets a little before withdrawing completely. However, that is definitely not my strategy.

I am often asked whether I am now at the right age to cash in properly.

The lifestyle my wife and I have chosen is not over the top and the company pays me an ongoing salary that covers our expenses. Furthermore, I have no backlog of demands. My succession is already sorted out. I will pass on the company to a social foundation that I formed to avoid it falling into private hands that start distributing all that I have held together for so long.

The current situation at Marc Cain ensures that it is a great pleasure to continue working.

I want to be an entrepreneur as long as I possibly can.

www.marc-cain.com

www.ucm-verlag.at

grab the app...

086 THE TALK

"If you're too modern, you age sooner."

The 52 year old former bopper Remo Ruffini is not what you would call the usual Italian entrepreneur in the luxury products industry. He took over an outdated brand in France, moved it to Italy, and transformed a sports label into a luxury label. He rejects all takeover approaches by international conglomerates and raised funds to placate investors and lower debt via an IPO. However, his company remains a family business. He plans to pass on his shares to his sons.

Text: Thesy Kness-Bastaroli.

Photos: Moncler

How did you manage to revive and transform an old brand that was initially focused on outfits for trekkers?

need to rise to back the share price. How do you want to ensure that Moncler retains its high quality standards?

The path to becoming a status symbol was paved with many smaller revolutions. For instance, I largely resisted to utilise retailers via a franchise system, but focused on own boutiques instead. Direct customer contact is important; it is even more important to listen and observe.

I also streamlined the offering, introduced new material-related technologies, and focused on top quality. All these procedures were made against the trend. If you're too modern, there's always the danger of ageing earlier.

There are examples where the IPO did not lead to a drop of quality standards. I think Brunello Cucinelli is a good example. Profit maximisation was never my main focus and it never will be. Even though "the sharks" - as private equity houses are called these days - have invested in our company, we still managed to raise our quality standards continuously over the last few years.

You intend to pass on your stake in Moncler to your sons, thereby committing to the concept of a family-run business. However, you also listed the company on the stock exchange. How does that fit together?

The IPO does not contradict the fact that we are a family business.

Numerous family businesses from the fashion industry listed on the stock exchange without abandoning their structure.

I think of companies such as Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Brunello Cucinelli. It is important to ensure that the stake listed on the stock exchange is within boundaries. I plan to withdraw from the management board in five or six years. I want to improve the Moncler concept before I withdraw. I still see growth potential in the company. After that, I want to pass on my stake (32%) to my two sons (21 and 25 years old). Both are already working at the company.

Then I would like to focus on my hobbies: skiing and sailing.

IPOs always have a bit of a bitter after-taste in the fashion industry, mainly because one might assume that the product is eviscerated in favour of key performance indicators that

214 style in progress

What was the main reason for buying Moncler in the first place?

I was fascinated by the opportunity to utilise new technologies at a traditional brand without changing its DNA. I knew it would be fairly easy to persuade the world that Moncler has the genre defining down jacket. I was a Moncler fan in my youth days. I wore my first Moncler jacket in the mid-1970s.

That jacket and a Vespa were the status symbols among the trendy youngsters in our little city Como. They called us the "Paninari", because we hung out day and night in a coffee house that sold little bread rolls (called "panini"). When the brand was put up for sale ten years ago, I bought it without hesitation. I streamlined the product range before introducing new technologies. Moncler jackets used to weigh three kilograms, now they only weigh about 150 grams.

What are today's requirements for a luxury label?

In my opinion, the future of luxury brands solely depends on brand knowledge and on the awareness of how the brand is perceived by the customers. It is more important to enhance brand awareness than to increase revenues. Moncler was initially perceived as a "puffy jacket", then as a "jacket", and then finally as Moncler. The actual

value is the brand name that stands for quality. I believe that this investment in the brand itself ensures sustainable growth in the future.

Despite operating own stores successfully, Moncler is a brand that grew and became strong in the fashion retail industry. How important do you think future co-operations with these stores will be?

Co-operation is of primary significance. I need steady feedback. I get that from the retail industry, which is capable of observing and evaluating market tendencies.

Thanks to your strategy Moncler has experienced above-average expansion rates over the last few years.

Do you see further growth potential in your brand?

I can't complain. Despite the global crisis, we still managed to more than double our revenue within five years. However, I'm not the only one who deserves credit for that. I work with a truly excellent team. There is further growth potential. I want to internationalise even more in the future. The goal is to generate roughly 25% of our revenue on each continent. (Note: When Ruffini took over the company in 2003, it generated 45 million Euros revenue; in 2012 it generated 489 million Euros.

In 2003, 90% of the revenue was generated in the company's home market.)

The brand transformed from a manufacturer of down sleeping bags and jackets for Alpinists into a status symbol. How did you achieve that?

I focused on our core business, quality, and high-tech. I then introduced knitwear, eyewear, and other accessories step by step. I never claimed to be fashionable.

Super-fashionable clothing never lasts more than a season, but our customers want to wear their Moncler for five years and more.

THE TALK 087

Remo Ruffini, the 52 year old supervisory board chairman and creative director, is the driving force behind the success of Moncler. He bought into Moncler ten years ago, adjusted the product range, rejuvenated the brand, and turned the group into a top seller. The brand has an international distribution network with 115 stores worldwide, of which 111 are self-managed.

style in progress 214

088 THE TALK

Brigitte Bardot during a romantic winter stroll; nobody knows who her companion is, but everybody knows the jacket.

Your brand has proven its ability to clothe just enough people to create a must-have effect without becoming a mass product that deters its initial target group? How did you manage to do that for so many years?

What measures would you like to see from politicians regarding the struggle against forgers? What does Moncler itself do to tackle the issue?

Can you quantify the damage to your company in this respect?

That is down to constant observation, personal customer contact, and close ties to the retail industry.

I cannot quantify the damages.

It's a fact that pirate copies of inferior quality harm our brand's image. The numerous Internet platforms that sell would-be Moncler jackets are also a real plague. As soon as we manage to shut down a few of those, others have already popped up.

Italy is on the right path with its demands for compulsory labelling and obligatory indication of origin.

Do you perceive your brand as one of the luxury labels?

If luxury means quality, then Moncler is in the luxury segment.

Successful brands are confronted with forgeries, copies, and unauthorised sales, to name but a few scenarios.

214 style in progress

What is the greatest damage caused by forgeries? Is it missed business or the fact that a completely different target group suddenly has access to the brand values?

It's that a different target group gains access to the brand values, without a shadow of a doubt.

How important is "made in" for you in regard to your products?

The "made in" aspect is one of my priorities. I only produce in countries that can offer a 100% quality control. That is only possible in Europe. The same applies to the purchasing process.

Gamme Rouge acts as a creative laboratory for Moncler? How important is

it to give your creative team freedom that goes beyond saleability?

That freedom beyond saleability is an absolute must. That's what inspires fashion collections.

You have worked together with famous designers at Moncler and at other brands.

However, you never allowed that the designers took the centre stage. There was never any "Moncler by Alessandra Fachinetti, Giambattista Valli, or Rei Kawakubo". Would you please explain that strategy of restraint?

For Moncler the brand of the product is the most important aspect.

Is Moncler still a winter brand?

THE TALK 089

Moncler, which was founded in the French Alpine village of Monestier-de-Clemont in 1952, is now among the most attractive international luxury brands. The down jacket has undergone quite a transformation over the last few years - from the icy heights down into the metropolis. Even the substance of the anorak has changed. It once weighed one and a half kilos; now it is as light as a feather with 150 grams and waterproof.

The split between sales in winter and summer currently stands at 70:30. Our sales figures are constantly rising in countries that have summer all year round, like Indonesia. It's pretty simple really. The customers in Asia and South America are preparing for their holidays in Europe.

How are the figures and indicators for Italy looking?

Which export markets are your salvations?

The Italian market is becoming less important. Initially we generated 90% of our revenue in Italy, now it's 25% and we are hoping to lower that share to 20%. However, Italy - especially Milan - remains a significant location for foreign luxury tourists

with a lot of spending power.

"Made in Italy" is very important for us too. Currently 50% of our employees work in Italy.

In your opinion, what does Italy need to get out of this crisis?

Italy primarily needs political stability. Once it has that, a growth spurt is possible. A new government crisis would make the situation worse. I have faith in Italy and I am convinced it is the right time to push ahead with an IPO.

What significance does the German-speaking market have for you?

I have great faith in the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets.

They like Moncler and I like them. This area is becoming

increasingly important for me.

We currently have four stores in Germany, but it could be ten in the future.

Moncler Revenue 2012: 489 million Euros, 1H 2013: +18% Profit margin 2012: +33% Stores: 115 mono-brand stores, of which 111 are self-managed Production plants: France, Italy, Bulgaria, Romania Remo Ruffini, the president and creative director of Moncler, bought the company ten years ago. The son of a fashion entrepreneur from Como - a former underachieving pupil, dropout, and autodidact - was successful in the industry before the takeover of Moncler. He ran his own men's shirt company.

Ruffini has always focused on top quality. The 52 year old manager also owns stakes in the brands Henry Cotton's, Marina Yachting, 18CRR81 Cerruti and Coast, and Weber & Ahaus via his private investment vehicle. Moncler Group sold Industries Sportswear Company to Cavalliere Brands before it listed on the stock exchange.

However, the Moncler shareholders acquired a 30% stake in Cavalliere Brands. The latter is under the control of British private equity house Emerisque Brands. No deal value was disclosed. The estimated value of the "other brands" is 135 million Euros. Since 2012, the two divisions Moncler and Sportswear Company are managed separately.

style in progress 214

A man and a woman - what unifies them, what separates them? It's all there. Common trends such as parkas,

or the mixture of knitted fabrics and down, meet entirely independent styles. She wears a chic couture-like coat, while he sports a functional jacket. There's sufficient choice to either emphasise the differences of the sexes, or to celebrate common ground. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Bernhard Musil, producers

Trends fall/winter 2014/15

Large Chequers

Exactly, it's the chequered pattern of the 1990s, the Kurt Cobain pattern, but also the chequers associated with punks. It has rural Scottish roots, but is fiercely urban in its implementation. Used for figure-hugging trousers and as an eye-catcher on accessories alike, it is true to its original style and “all-over” it is a breath of fresh air for suits.

Parajumpers

Prps

The Gigi

Bloom

Cinque

0039 Italy

René Lezard

Luigi Borelli

Mac Raparo

Hilfiger Denim

New Balance

214 style in progress

Manuel Ritz

Coat Statement

Harris Wharf London

It’s merely black and combinable, you say? Not at all! The women's coat is showing more and more fashion courage. They sport big cat patterns, bright colours even in connection with traditional materials such as loden, and also the sophisticated elegance of omission. They come in feminine O-shapes, oversized or as hybrid of coat and blazer.

FASHION 091

Blauer USA

Lodenism Windsor Schneiders

Montgomery

Airfield

Matchless

Mabrun Marc Cain

Minimum

Meindl

Marina Yachting Marc O’Polo

Henry Cotton’s

style in progress 214

Sweatknit

White Siviglia

The love affair continues. Knitted fabrics and mostly down-filled nylon have asserted themselves after their premiere last winter.

Knitted fabrics on their own are at their most creative in sweater shape. The typical round neckline and the cuffs are elements that also make an appearance in knitwear. If the pullover is made of jersey material, then it shines with new ideas such as quilting.

Mabrun

Zoe Karssen

Knitbary

Marc O’Polo

Sportalm

Etiqueta Negra

Blaumax

Mountain Force

Drykorn

Alpha Studio

Malo

214 style in progress

Jacket Revisited

The jacket has reinvented itself. It is now sufficiently refined to be combined with a suit. The material mix is clever enough to playfully bridge the gap between sportswear and formal clothing. It's creativity in full bloom. Pea coats are sub-lined with colourful down, while functional fabrics are paired with fine materials. These certainly aren't models of which customers already have countless versions in their wardrobes.

FASHION 093 C.P. Company

Lodenfrey 1842

Baracuta

Dual-Ism

Canada Goose

Napapijri

Tommy Hilfiger Tailored

Marina Yachting

Sand

style in progress 214

Blue Miracles

Luigi Borelli

Bar’one

It's not always blue jeans. Trousers are out of formal competition in the fall/winter season of 2014/15. It goes without saying that the most important shapes of the season can only be achieved by wearing the correct jeans and flats. The looks for women are skinny, figure-hugging, and shortened in length. Men wear their authentic leg wear slightly used, yet still cleaned up. Naturally, they're also into leather and leather lookalikes as slim tubes and pipes.

Monocrom

A Denim

Brax

Wrangler

Blue Fire

Pence G-Design

AG Adriano Goldschmied

7 For All Mankind & HTC

Atelier Gardeur

214 style in progress

Lucky de Luca

Be Dandy

It's so refreshingly light, so unpretentious, and so playful with a cheeky wink.

The dinner jacket, the smoking, the top hat, cufflinks - we feared they may be considered mere relics in this day and age. That's why we're even happier about the comeback of panache. It's returned without boring etiquette manuals; it's simply carefree and youthful.

FASHION 095

Stetson

Deyk

Luis Trenker

Jan Leslie

Flowers for Friends

Gloriette

Drykorn

Antony Morato

RenĂŠ Lezard Club of Gents

Hardy Amies

Henry Cotton’s

Windsor

style in progress 214

These Boots‌

The Artistylist

Ilse Jacobsen

Boots, may they be lace-ups or calf-high with sole profiles, have to be reliable during the winter. The perfect alternative for those milder days are loafers that can also endure a bit of sludge due to thick rubber soles. The same applies to luxurious sneakers in running shapes. The only shoe for which it can never be frosty enough is truly legendary: the Moon Boot.

Moon Boot Lacoste Footwear

Sand

Floris van Bommel

Pantone Universe

Raparo

New Balance Yuketen

Marc O’Polo

Floris van Bommel

Wolverine

Windsor

Mismo

Moon Boot

B Belt

This Way To Heaven

214 style in progress

The Last Conspiracy

Deluxe All-rounder

Holubar

FASHION 097

One could be tempted to wear this jacket throughout the entire winter. The parka is so unbeatably universal that it is pointless to discuss its value. It's beefing up for the next season with real fur lining, luxurious fur trimmed hoods, or materials such as leather. The customer may need to pay a little more, but he or she will get what's desired: an even more universal companion.

Handstich

Woolrich

Marlino

Arc’Teryx x Veilance

IQ Berlin

Bomboogie IQ Berlin

No. 8

Pepe Jeans London

Habsburg

Milestone G-Lab

style in progress 214

098 MODE

Photos: Peter Straub Styling & Production: Roswitha Wieser Hair/Make-up: Eva Swarowski Models: Sandra Schiller/PS Models, Katarina H./Tempo Models Special thanks to the companies Dantendorfer, Denkstein, Ennsmann, Die Brille (all Salzburg), and Reyer (Hallein).

Parka: Woolrich Reading glasses: Prada Dress: French Connection Ring: New One High-heel sandals: Diane von Furstenberg 214 style in progress

MODE 099

Parka: Habsburg Necklace: New One Shoes: Miu Miu style in progress 214

100 MODE

Parka: Handstich Earrings: Priyanka Dress: Lanvin Pumps: Diane von Furstenberg 214 style in progress

eft MODE L 101 Parka: Marlino

Sunglasses: D&G Ankle boots: Pura Lopez Right Parka: No. 8 Skirt: Stoffwexel

style in progress 214

102 MODE

Parka: IQ+ Berlin Earrings: New One Necklace: New One Ring: Priyanka Skirt: Stoffwexel Pumps: Gianvito Rossi 214 style in progress

MODE 103

Parka: Blauer USA Dress: French Connection style in progress 214

104 MODE

Left Parka: Barbed Sunglasses: Chanel Blouse: Odeeh Leather jeggings: Drome Pumps: Diane von Furstenberg Right Vest: Barbed Leather jeggings: Stouls High-heel sandals: Pura Lopez 214 style in progress

MODE 105 Parka: Meindl Authentic Luxury Earrings: New One Dress: Stoffwexel High-heel sandals: Gianvito Rossi

style in progress 214

106 MODE

Trench coat: G-Lab Blouse: Drykorn Silk blouse: St.Emile Pants: Cinque Booties: Closed 214 style in progress

MODE 107

Photos: Stefan Milev Art Direction & Production: Mody Al Khufash Hair/Make-up: Ute Hildenbeutel Model: Annemara Post @ Viva Model Management Photographer’s Assistant: Dunja Antic Fashion Assistant: Tanya Min Jee Ellis Special Thanks to Alex Sossah

Blazer: Denham Blouse: Drykorn Pants: Gardeur Booties: Closed style in progress 214

108 MODE

Trench Coat: Joop Dress: Cruciani Jumpsuit: Holy Ghost Stockings: Cos Pumps: Scarosso 214 style in progress

MODE 109

Dress: RenĂŠ Lezard style in progress 214

110 MODE

Jacket: Joop Dress: Tommy Hilfiger Skirt: Closed Tights: Wolford Booties: Closed 214 style in progress

MODE 111

Jacket: St. Emile Dress: RenĂŠ Lezard Tights: Falke

style in progress 214

112 MODE

Coat: Marlino Dress: Comptoir des Cotonniers Tights: Calzedonia Pumps: Scarosso 214 style in progress

MODE 113

Coat: Emu Australia Dress: Amor & Psyche Tights: Burlington Booties: Closed style in progress 214

114 IN STORE

Extra Butter displays long rows of shoes in a multiplex cinema atmosphere.

214 style in progress

IN STORE 115

Shoe Premieres Like at the Movies Extra Butter/New York.

These sneaker enthusiasts are also movie buffs and design entire co-operations as movie related as their store.

Text: Petrina Engelke.

Photos: Extra Butter, Petrina Engelke

Quite a few people are standing on the constantly bustling Orchard Street; some have even settled down in folding chairs.

They are waiting for the opening of Extra Butter. That opening is still three hours away and rumour has it that some already secured their respective spots in the queue over the previous night. The only thing missing is a red carpet. No doubt, the owners of Extra Butter know how to stage a premiere.

A few years ago they opened a store with sought after sneakers and some street/urban wear in a small village named Rockville Centre. It seems the community was waiting for just that. They have built a fiercely loyal following no more than a 30 minute commuter train ride from New York. One of the absolute highlights is that the store also stocks sneakers and shirts for women.

Premiere with "Kill Bill" Sneakers

In October 2013, Extra Butter made the big step from the suburbs to Manhattan and the shop had a real treat in store for its grand opening. A brand new co-operation with Asics sees the launch of a string of sneakers titled "Death List 5", inspired by the movie "Kill Bill". The name of the line is at the centre of an advertising campaign including a short video in the style of an action film trailer. This video was the only thing visitors saw when they visited the website of the New York-based store in the weeks leading up to the opening.

"I am a movie buff", laughs Jason Faustino, the mastermind behind the Extra Butter concept.

Before customers can enter the actual store, they need to walk through a foyer worthy of a real cinema. There are old movie theatre seats and a thick red velvet curtain, through which one can enter the "screening room". Instead of films one finds long rows of sneakers and film reels. The setting complements the premiere of the Asics x Extra Butter Gel saga "Cottonmouth"

perfectly. "Most people only showed up because of that", Faustino argues.

The screening room - sneakers that drive collectors mad are beyond the cinema foyer.

A Combination of Hype and Service

Such spectacular premiere ideas attract sneakers enthusiasts from far and wide. It's no surprise that they keep on returning too.

The store is run by staff that one wants to befriend instantly. The old school service of the shop is characterised by in-depth product knowledge and individual service. Extra Butter wants its customers to feel just as welcome and well-advised in the new branch. "The audience in New York is very diverse; we see completely different styles", Faustino says. Some top sellers from the original store in Rockville have to take a back seat in New York.

However, the owners are adamant that they will stick to their initial idea of offering the best sneakers, T-shirts, jackets, popular collaborations, and new ideas on a regular basis. After all, the name Extra Butter sets the bar very high. In the jargon the term "butter" already describes things that are spectacular, especially in the context of clothing styles.

Extra Butter 125 Orchard Street, New York, NY 10002/US extrabutterny.com Owners: J. Faustino, A. Amin, N. Amin, R. Furchak Employees: 6 Sales area: 213 sqm Shoe brands: Adidas, Asics, New Balance, Nike, Puma, Reebok, Saucony, Toms, Vans, and others Accessories and clothing brands: Anmlhse, Civil, Extra Butter, Guns Germs Steal, Junya Mafia, Publish, The Decades Hat Co., White Gold Tarantula, Zanerobe, and others.

style in progress 214

116 IN STORE

The new Garhammer store houses many atmospheric details such as vintage-look wooden elements, golden wallpapers, large-scale wall graphics, and floral prints.

Tradition with Future Garhammer/Wald­ kirchen. The small town Waldkirchen is located halfway between Passau and the Bavarian “Bayerischer Wald” national park on the Czech border. The fashion house Garhammer has been based in this rural idyll for 117 years. Only recently, Garhammer underwent the most extensive area and product range expansion in the company’s history.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: Fabian Aurel Hild

214 style in progress

The brothers Christoph and Johannes Huber are quite satisfied with Garhammer’s development.

Since 2004, they managed to increase the sales volume by 40% to 12 million Euros in fiscal 2012. “Our fashion competence and diverse product range configuration appeals to people from different generations, regions, and income brackets.

Our customers come from within a perimeter of roughly 70 kilometres and spend approximately four hours in our store”, says Johannes Huber to prove the attraction the established fashion house has.

Garhammer sees itself as a service provider and proves that all its efforts are centred on the

customer by offering - among many other amenities - personal shopping, a tailor shop for instant alterations, a glasses rental service, a free-of-charge parking garage, and free baby food and beverages.

Extensive Upgrade in Lower Bavaria

Continuous changes such as the steady refinement of the product range and regular construction measures are also part of the concept. It’s proving highly successful too. An increase of revenue and yield caused a higher volume of goods, which - in turn - opened the door to spatial growth opportunities.

The Huber brothers invested 15

million Euros in an architectural and content-related upgrade of the renowned department store.

They also kick-started an extensive reconstruction and new construction project. They teamed up with the Stuttgart-based architecture firm Blocher Blocher Partners to develop a package of measures aimed at enhancing the quality of the customers’ stay in store. At the same time, the salesrooms were generously restructured to accommodate the product ranges more suitably.

During the 15 month construction period, Garhammer modified existing sales areas and built a new 2,000 square metre annex, which is connected to the original building via skyways

IN STORE 117

Among the many architectural highlights are a curtain made of granite-coloured lamellas spanning across more than one storey that frames the airspace facing the main building, as well as towering shelf walls and partitions made of messing, blackened steel, and of materials with a rusty look.

dominated by glass. The split-level construction method allowed an incorporation of Garhammer’s hillside location, which facilitated the creation of differentiated experience worlds on offset levels and a gourmet bistro.

More Beautiful, More Detailed, More Airy

Every section’s sales area was expanded and underwent a moderate upgrade. New brands - especially from the premium segment - were added to the portfolio. On four floors, customers can choose from a brand and fashion spectrum that ranges from entry-level prices to highend products.

The expansion also led to the recruitment of 30 additional employees, which makes the fashion house one of the largest employers in the region with a total of 400 employees.

Garhammer does not see social responsibility and value awareness as mere phrases, but believes the aforementioned terms define an attitude that is lived by its employees on a daily basis and that is consciously experienced by its customers.

They cultivate Garhammer’s traditions that have been in place for almost 120 years - Christoph and Johannes Huber.

Modehaus Garhammer GmbH Marktplatz 28, 94065 Waldkirchen/Germany Reopening: September 2013 Owners: Christoph and Johannes Huber Sales area: 9,000 sqm Brands for women: 0039 Italy, 7 for all Mankind, Aglini, Airfield, Aldomartins, Allude, Ana Alcazar, Belstaff, Betty Barclay, Blutsgeschwister, Bogner Jeans, Boss (Black & Orange), Brax, Burberry, Campus, Closed, Codello, Comma, Deyk, Diane von Fürstenberg, Diesel, Drykorn, Etro, Fornarina, FTC, George Gina & Lucy, Guess, Hugo, Hugo Boss, J Brand, Laurèl, Liebeskind, Mac, Majestic, Marc O’Polo, Marccain, Mavi, Max Mara Weekend, Moncler, Napapijri, Passigatti, Pepe Jeans London, Replay, Rich & Royal, Schumacher, Sportalm, St.Emile, Talbot Runhof, Tommy Hilfiger, Wolford, and many more Shoe brands for women: Abro, Air Step, Andrea Puccini, Ara, Ash, Attilio Giusti Leombruni, Birkenstock, Boss (Black & Orange), Converse, Marc O’Polo, Michael Kors, Napapijri, Paul Green, Peter Kaiser, Pretty Ballerina, Santoni, Stuart Weitzman, Tommy Hilfiger, UGG, Unützer, and many more Brands for men: Alberto, Antony Morato, Arido, Armani Jeans, Baldessarini, Barutti, Basefield, Blaumax, Boss (Black, Green, Orange), Brax, Burberry, Campus, Cinque, Diesel, Drykorn, Eterna, Etro, Gaastra, Gardeur, G-Star Raw, Hilfiger Denim, Joop, Lacoste, Mac, Marc O’Polo, Mavi, Meindl, Michael Kors, Moncler, Napapijri, René Lezard, Replay, Robert Graham, Schneiders, Super Dry, Tom Tailor Denim, Tommy Hilfiger, Willi Bogner, and many more Shoe brands for men: Boss (Black & Orange), Boxfresh, Clarks, Converse, Floris van Bommel, Lacoste, Lloyd, Marc O’Polo, Napapijri, Nobrand, Pantofola d’Oro, Pepe Jeans London, Santoni, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, and many more

style in progress 214

118 IN STORE

Fashion with Room to Breathe Kleidoskop/Frankfurt.

It all started with a small store in the Nordend district of Frankfurt 19 years ago. 15 years later a move led to a concept store for designer fashion with a sales area of 180 square metres in the heart of the city centre. Kleidoskop is a dream come true for Dragana Papric and Klaus Säcke. Text: Isabel Faiss.

Photos: Kleidoskop

“The brands we stock speak for themselves. They have a very strong character and an equally strong identity. This requires room to breathe. Similar to a painting, every piece needs space to unfold its full potential.”

When Dragana Papric speaks about her product range, it sounds as if she is running an art gallery instead of a boutique. Her background as an art historian can be felt throughout the dream of creative self-development that she fulfils together with Klaus Säcke. Since March 2010, she has 180 square metres in Frankfurt’s city centre to work with. However, the duo opened the first 50 square metre Kleidoskop store in the Nordend district of Frankfurt as early as 1995. The product range initially consisted of eccentric “no-name” collections discovered at trade fairs in London and Amsterdam. The first large brand to make it into the shop, alongside accessories such as scarves and shoes, was Marithé & Francois Girbaud. The move to the much larger premises in the city centre transformed the small Nordend store into an outlet. It is a pretty visionary concept that has so far spared the shop from major cut-backs and elegantly outsources the subject-matter of discount.

Two Stores - One Idea

“Our fashion is long-lived and not too trend-driven, which means that the collections do not only last from one season to the next. This is why the subject of discount is somewhat different for us. At the end of the season we reduce prices for two weeks before the items are moved to our outlet in Nordend. This ensures we maintain our high-end image in our main store nicely”, Dragana Papric explains. The design of the two shops is practically identical. The owners’ motto is “clean chic”, and they stick to it throughout. “When our customers come into the store they need room to move. I deliberately refrained from installing the stop signs that others integrate into their store designs”, Dragana Papric says.

214 style in progress

A Question of Style

The clean design of the store defines clear routes through the shop. Everything comes across as very tidy, spacious, and elegant. This can also be felt in the product range, which mainly consists of black items. “I’ve found my own style. Our fashion is always casual and a little rock & roll, but never overdressed. I believe that the finesse of a piece is not always apparent at first sight. Sometimes one needs to take a second look to discover the attention to detail that makes an item desirable.” Dragana Papric and Klaus Säcke mainly find their brands in Paris and Berlin. While they meet up with existing partners in showrooms in Düsseldorf and Berlin, they also value trade fairs as innovation platforms for new brands and ideas. After all the most important distinguishing feature of Kleidoskop is that it always has room for something that Frankfurt hasn’t seen yet.

The store keeps the promise the name makes - Kleidoskop by Dragana Papric and Klaus Säcke.

Kleidoskop Töngesgasse 38, Frankfurt upon Main/Germany www.kleidoskop.de Opening: Inner city branch March 2010; Outlet Oeder Weg 1995 Owners: Klaus Säcke, Dragana Papric Sales area: 180 sqm; 50 sqm (outlet) Brands for women: 0941, 360°, 8PM, Daphne, Drome, Drykorn, Es’Givien, Firma Berlin, High, Michalsky, MM6

by Maison Martin Margiela, Plein Sud, Sacks Accessories brands: 365, Another Bag, Blui, Fulvio Luparia, Gianni Chiarini, Machwerk, MM6, Philippe Audibert, Sandrine de Montard Shoe brands: Candice Cooper, Catarina Martins, Ink, MM6, Vic, Vic Matié

IN STORE 119

Free movement, free thinking, free shopping - that’s the architectural credo of the duo behind Kleidoskop.

style in progress 214

120 IN STORE

Rough wood, original vintage furniture, and self-made items made of old materials dominate the interior of the Barber & Butcher Concept Store designed by the Distorted People crew.

214 style in progress

IN STORE 121

Strictly For Men Barber & Butcher/ Munich. They welded, laid bricks, and screwed until it all came together. The crew of Distorted People in Munich needed no more than five weeks to create a coherent lifestyle world for men.

Barber & Butcher is the motto of the two adjacent stores that showcase sophisticated street wear and hand-picked sneakers.

Text: Isabel Faiss.

Photos: Distorted People

The idea for the Distorted People fashion label originated from a simple t-shirt range affiliated with a series of parties in Munich’s trendy nightclub Baby.

Many stories start like this - and many stories end shortly after.

The Distorted People crew took a leap of faith, and it paid off.

With the store opening last September, the collection was upgraded to a complete street wear range for men, thereby taking the label to a whole new level.

It offers sweatshirts, t-shirts, and jackets, as well as trousers, caps, and some leather footwear.

All pieces sport a casual vintage style. Details such as unusual cuts add a certain fashionable twist to the collection.

Historic Butchers’ Knives on The Wall

At the same time, the two stores, which are located in a row in “Hans-Sachs-Strasse” in the heart of Munich’s “Glockenbach” quarter, make the lifestyle world of Distorted People even more real and tangible by adding other brands to the mix. “We had opened a pop-up store in the front part of the premises a few months earlier, but then the much larger rear store became available by pure coincidence.

We simply had to go for it. Now we finally have enough space to realise our vision of a perfect and coherent lifestyle world for men”, Dung Vu, the chief exec-

The founders Matthias Gnilka (far right), Huy Vu (below right), and Dung Vu (far left) are the driving force behind Distorted People since 2008.

Vintage translated into modern street wear is the fashion motto at Barber & Butcher.

utive and co-founder, explains.

This world consists of robust materials, rough wood, shiny meat hooks, and scrap metal that have been converted into furniture. The design team created all the aforementioned elements in painstaking manual labour. One shelf leans against two old glass bottles, while another still shows the springs of a former bedstead.

The sales counter itself was manufactured using an old cow barn door.

purchasing, production, and regular updates of the complex marketing concept that Distorted People made public right from the start. As part of the upcoming collection, the label also wants to selectively expand its brand distribution. The crew has some renowned clients at the top of its wish list.

No Joy For Women

Barber & Butcher is the motto that can be found as a detail in the razor blade and butcher’s knife emblem throughout the store, as well as in certain pieces of the collection. “We quite deliberately chose an extremely manly imagery. The barber and butcher professions have an association with the film “Gangs of New York”. It’s nothing personal, but our store is not the right place for women”, Dung Vu explains with conciliatory gestures. The sneaker store in the front section - which exclusively stocks Quickstrike collections and limited editions by brands such as Reebok, Vans, Le Coq Sportif, and Adidas - also houses a tattoo studio, where customers can combine both the pleasant and unpleasant.

The eight-man crew does not need help from outside. They take care of everything - the online store, the collection creation,

Barber & Butcher Concept Store Hans-Sachs-Strasse 3, Munich/Germany www.distortedpeople.com Opening: August 2013 Owners: Dung Vu, Huy Vu, Matthias Gnilka Sales area: 60 sqm Brands: Adidas, Distorted People, Le Coq Sportif, Nike, Reebok, Vans

style in progress 214

122 IN STORE

The Embodiment of Service Rigby & Peller/Munich. Personal lingerie styling is a term that involuntarily conjures up the images of a stuffy boutique and a rather unnerving lady with a tape measure. These associations make an appointment at Rigby & Peller, a lingerie concept store originally founded in London which opened a branch in Munich last summer, even more refreshing. The shop combines selected premium brands with an excellent idea: specialist advice. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Rigby & Peller

214 style in progress

Everyone who has ventured out to buy lingerie knows the pressure the sales assistants are under. It’s a constant balancing act between expert advice and charm, paired with tremendous professional competence and corresponding tact when interacting with the customer.

This is probably why this rather delicate field was left to mono-label stores and the underwear departments of department stores. The concept developed by the London-based lingerie chain Rigby & Peller, which arose from

a corset manufacturing business founded by Gita Peller and Bertha Rigby in 1939 and is now part of Belgian lingerie group Van de Velde, is truly audacious.

Both companies are connected by their respective traditions, meaning the businesses can draw from their excellent know-how regarding various fits. Historical images of the corset manufactory that was awarded the Royal Warrant by Queen Elizabeth II in 1960 are displayed on the Heritage-Wall in every Rigby & Peller store. Today the chain

IN STORE 123

offers premium lingerie by brands such as Marie Jo, Andres Sarda, Aubade, and swimwear by Watercult in self-managed stores in England, Spain, Denmark, and Germany.

Tailor-Made Service

Female customers are welcomed to the store by qualified lingerie stylists instead of sales personnel.

“We invest a huge amount of effort in the training of our stylists.

They have to have service running through their veins, because we sell premium lingerie. Due

to our parent company Van de Velde, which has been producing quality lingerie in Belgium since 1919, we can enable our employees to acquire the necessary professional competence by allowing them to visit the production facility on a regular basis”, says Liesbeth Delmote, the retail manager for Rigby & Peller in Germany. She is, among other duties, responsible for the nine stores that exist in Germany since 2012, as well as the future expansion of the brand, which will include franchise concepts.

The Personal Shape ID

The store design of the branch in Munich is based on the flair of a London boutique.

Customers can arrange personal styling appointments at Rigby & Peller at any time. The heart and soul of the elegant boutique in Munich’s Sendlinger Strasse is the area that houses the spacious changing rooms, which are staged in the accordance with the consistent Rigby & Peller design concept based on comfortable London boutique flair. The first

The spacious changing rooms are the central element of every store.

The specially developed size mirror is a truly groundbreaking service element.

step is detailed figure guidance for every customer, which is executed by utilising a specially developed and patented size mirror. The term “size mirror” is meant quite literally, as a complex arrangement of 3D cameras behind the mirror captures more than 40 parameters of the customer’s upper body before transmitting the ideal bra size to the stylist’s iPad within minutes. On request, the customer can archive her so-called Shape ID at Rigby & Peller for use during the next shopping spree. For those who think the process is too technical and not romantic enough, there is always the possibility to imagine a friendly lady with the tape measure in the mirror - even though she isn’t really there.

Rigby & Peller Sendlinger Strasse 36, Munich/Germany www.rigbyandpeller.com Opening: March 2013 Owner: Rigby & Peller Sales area: 50 sqm Brands: Andres Sarda, Aubade, Cyell, Marie Jo, Marie Jo L’Aventure, Maryan Mehlhorn, Prima Donna, Prima Donna Twist, Watercult.

Rigby & Peller focuses on high-quality products, which are priced accordingly.

style in progress 214

124 IN STORE

Not Raw, But Mature Milk/Munich. Prepare to enter a world created by a blend of “Alice in Wonderland” and Jules Verne’s epic novel “Around the World in Eighty Days”. Experience long-gone aesthetics that are far removed from the common perception of Romanticism. Jochen Hornberger and Allen Popovic equipped their little store named Milk with vast amounts of design, creative ideas, and Boho-chic.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Milk

Delicately drawn decoupage motifs show old maps that embellish the fronts of furniture pieces.

Hot-air balloons soar up the walls while excited ostriches peek around the corner. The Milk store in Munich’s Glockenbach district is a time machine that takes you back to the nostalgia around the turn of the century and the beginnings of the Art Deco era in the early 1920s and 1930s. Nevertheless it also leads its visitors deep into the world of contemporary fashion with newcomer brands such as Nice Things or Indi & Colt. The Noa Noa label contributes roughly 30% to the store’s entire product range, which is quite logical since the owners have been running a Noa Noa franchise store at this address for the last five years, as well as further franchise stores in Munich’s “Schellingstrasse” and in Regensburg. However, the shop has been deliberately pursuing a more progressive purchasing strategy to expand its customer base. Jochen Hornberger and Allen Popovic discovered all the other brands in stock during the fashion week in Berlin. Even though the two owners dislike the term Boho-chic, it is the quintessence of their style statement. They attach great importance to supplying its customers with a shopping basket containing a coherent look

that gives the buyer the satisfying feeling that three items can be combined to twelve different stylings. This makes the purchasing process highly demanding, but also more rewarding. “I always think in entire outfits. I choose the items with a strong identity first and get increasingly pragmatic towards the end.”

ensure that the two passionate owners will never have a reason to feel offended.

Shriller And De-Romanticised

“We deliberately looked for fashion that shows a certain consistency beyond a season, that mainly draws its inspiration from the past and doesn’t take itself too seriously”, Jochen Hornberger explains. As a fashion design graduate who was awarded a lectureship at the German Master School for Fashion he has the professional competence to do just that. He opened his first fashion store in Munich together with his business and life partner Allen Popovic seven years ago, but shut the operation down just one and a half years later. Back then his store exclusively focused on Danish brands, which was unusual at the time and corresponded with the raw concept known as “Lait Cru” (French for raw milk). The name Milk was born out of a maturation process that the duo underwent in the last few years. The new store is shriller, de-romanticised, more modern, and more grown-up.

No More Prams

The decoration elements are for sale alongside the fashion items. The owners also run an interior design store in Munich that opened many years ago and have an eye for beautiful things.

214 style in progress

The passing trade in the district has also changed significantly over the last five years. “In the past our classic customer was a young mother. We don’t see many prams now. This environment is now mainly inhabited by people who are even better off than before, which is also caused by the rental rate around here. Today we are the only remaining inner city district that houses small individual boutiques instead of large fashion chains”, Jochen Hornberger says. Milk has settled in a highly demanding environment - an environment in which comparability is seen as an insult. However, the elaborate store design and the sophisticated fashion range

Milk Reichenbachstrasse 41 Munich/Germany www.facebook.com/ MilkMuenchen Opening: August 2013 Owners: Jochen Hornberger, Allen Popovic Sales area: 60 sqm Brands for women: Avoca, Indi & Cold, Kaffe, La Fee Maraboutee, Noa Noa, Q.

IN STORE 125

Rich colours instead of milky white. Gifted interior designers Jochen Hornberger and Allen Popovic deliberately chose rich colours for their Milk store.

style in progress 214

126 IN STORE

She preferably sells what she would like to wear herself - Bettina Müller in the Antonio Marras showroom.

The store interior with its diagonally ascending shelves was a real sensation at the start and underlined the shop’s “concept store” claim.

214 style in progress

IN STORE 127

Pretty Well Chosen Eclectic/Zurich. One can certainly say that Bettina Müller opened the first concept store of this kind in Zurich. She has stayed true to her individual concept for the last twelve years - with considerable success.

Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Eclectic, Helen Benisch, Dörte Welti

Rarely is a shop name as descriptive as in Eclectic’s case. The name derives from the Greek term “eklektos”, which means utilising individual methods from various closed systems.

Accordingly, Eclectic is a concept store that draws inspiration from various fashion styles to combine what the owner and her customers love. Bettina Müller has always been an expert at enhancing her life by picking the best elements from all sorts of areas.

The Zurich-born businesswoman first completed her training as a fashion artist, then acted as purchaser for a department store for three years in order to get to know the business angle of the fashion world, spent another three years putting together complete outfits as a visual merchandiser at Esprit in Zurich, and finally became self-employed as a freelance graphic artist designing prints for knitters and T-shirt producers. Seeing that she always strives to give 100%, she then put her globetrotting lifestyle on hold after giving birth to two children within a year (not twins!). During a trip to New York Bettina Müller came across the fashion of Morgane Le Fay. Suddenly it all made sense. She decided to put all her eggs in one basket and decided to transfer the idea of a concept store that was, until then, only known in the US to Zurich. Now it was

time to give the new baby a name. “I saw the term eclectic on a menu in New York”, Müller remembers. “I liked the word and its meaning was a perfect fit for my store.” Mueller then encountered Alberto Barbetti, an astute businessman in the fashion industry, and founded Eclectic Lifestyle with him. The new company even managed to launch its own collection, which was produced in Switzerland, within the first few years. Today, the only remaining part of that collection is a range of knitted products. However, the store focused its attention on fashion labels with very differing styles that come together to form a coherent unit - quite an achievement! At the beginning, lifestyle and home accessories complemented the core product range.

Bettina Müller no longer needs to worry about market acceptance. Her customers, overwhelmed by the rather monotonous fashion retail environment in Zurich, welcome and understand the idea behind a concept store. “The term ‘concept store’ has become somewhat diluted”, Müller regrets. “There’s nothing unique about it anymore, but I guess that’s the course of time.”

Bettina Müller opened a second branch - also named Eclectic, but focusing on business fashion - together with her business partner in November 2013. “I

At Eclectic customers find non-seasonal fashion for all occasions, even weddings.

regularly had women in my store who wanted me to put together a completely new wardrobe for them”, Müller explains the move. “But until now I was mainly seen as a shop for elegant fashion, even for bridal fashion and evening dresses. That was my spinal cord, so to speak. I had earned a name for offering non-seasonal fashion for special occasions.” Müller now hopes to expand her reputation into the business fashion segment. The established core target group, which is between 30 and 50 years of age, will surely welcome this development just as much as the next generation, which already regularly frequents the first store. This is part of the concept; a concept that will prove to be a success.

Eclectic Werdemühlstrasse 7, 8001 Zurich/Switzerland www.eclecticshop.ch Opening: February 2002 Owners: Bettina Müller, Alberto Barbetti Employees: 6 Sales area: 180 sqm Fashion brands: 19-70, 1one, Akira, Amelia Toro, American Colors, Antoni & Alison, Antonio Marras, Autumn Cashmere, Clu, Genetic Denim, Giles, Herno, Mackintosh, Majestic Filatures, Mantu, Matta, Minä Perhonen, Monika Varga Milano, Monoplaza, Morgane Le Fay, Pauw, Pazuki, Rada, Rag & Bone, Rebecca, Taylor, Rosso 35, Samantha Sung, Seventy, Rue Blanche, Sibel Saral, Siyu, Sphere One, Stills, Y-dress, Zero by Maria Cornejo Accessories brands: Agnelle, Antipast, Barbara Agnes Scarfs, Barja, Franco Ferrari, Kotur, Minä Perhonen, Neri Firenze, Rada, Zilla Jewellery brands: Chan Luu, Laurent Gandini, Maria Calderara, Stephanie Schneider Shoe brands: Antonio Barbato, Dove Nuotano Gli Squali, Esquivel, Rose’s Roses, Seventy Lifestyle brands: Gravel Cologne, Histoires de Parfums

style in progress 214

128 IN STORE

Fresh flowers, an eye-catching chandelier, and - naturally fashion that grabs attention: the foyer of Bella Donna.

214 style in progress

IN STORE 129

Luxury with Passion Bella Donna/Regensburg. 27 years, many stops, and now the impact in one of Regensburg’s prime locations - the mother and daughter behind Bella Donna are proving that their instinct for the high-end niche market enables them to take great strides forward.

Text: Martina Müllner.

Photos: Bella Donna

watchful eye on the older one and credibly portraying the poster girl of a family dedicated to the fashion industry. Here it is quite natural that little Stella examines luxury shoes by Jimmy Choo while her mother talks about budgets, travelling, and the spirit of enterprise.

The location is Regensburg, which is a dream come true for both mother and daughter.

The fashion career of the Koller family had many stops: roots in Burglengenfeld, expansion into Dresden and Meissen, two still operative branches in Weiden and Bad Abbach, and in between all that a store in a remote setting in a renovated manor house in Maxhütte.

Let’s Start from Scratch

This is a true family-owned business. Ulrike Koller clearly passed on her fashion genes to her three children, especially in the case of Katrin Koller-van Eersel, her middle daughter. The latter is holding her youngest daughter in her arms, while keeping a

So who does the Koller family need to thank for finally arriving in Regensburg, the “much lived and loved city”? They have to thank none other than Ulrike Koller’s hairdresser. He knew that the well-established fur shop Saar was about to close down, leaving a large gap in a 1A location in Regensburg.

Vertical businesses and brands were already outbidding each other to secure the space. She jumped out of the hairdresser chair, rushed into the shop in question, and approached the previous tenant directly without any hesitation. He knew what was going on instantly and said: “Mrs Koller, you want to rent

Ulrike Koller and Katrin Koller-van Eersel - mother and daughter are running the family business.

my shop.” The initial “Yes, I do!” was followed by many weeks of tough negotiations, which were a test of patience for the energetic ladies who were eager to get going. Finally, in February 2013, the landlords decided in favour of the family-owned company instead of opting for quick cash. It is quite amazing what mother and daughter managed to achieve within the very short time until July. The achievements include - among others - the renovation and the purchasing process, which proved to be more difficult than expected. Many brands that already had successful relationships with the Koller family’s more remote outlets, were already tied up in Regensburg - unfortunately with the heavyweight directly opposite.

“As a consequence we looked for a niche in our high-end product range. My mother loves the purchasing aspect of the business.

She mastered this task with all the passion she could muster”, Katrin Koller-van Eersel explains.

The store design - a collaboration with an architect - was also organised by the mother, while the daughter, who has a background in business economics and experience in the fashion industry, took care of human resources, budgeting, and marketing.

The shop windows are separated from the store by lamellae, but are still integrated into the shop.

A Little Privacy

The Koller family runs their store in a very family-oriented manner and is just as cordial when interacting with its many regular customers. A shopping appointment with the saleswoman of choice can easily take half a day. In the remote location in Maxhütte many customers compare the extraordinary service to a day spa.

All one has to do to recreate this intimacy and deceleration in the new store, is to climb to the upper level of the shop, where a bar and a private shopping lounge with a huge changing room and make-up table ensure that time truly flies. Furthermore, a discreet back door leads to a rarity in this convoluted medieval town - a parking spot. Perfect for those who like shopping, but don’t enjoy parading around with shopping bags.

Bella Donna Neupfarrplatz/Ober Bachgasse 1, 93047 Regensburg/ Germany, www.belladonna-moden.de Opening: July 2013 Owners: Ulrike Koller, Katrin Koller-van Eersel Employees: 25 Sales area: 300 sqm Brands: Acne, Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Brunello Cucinelli, Frauenschuh, Golden Goose, Herno, Humanoid, Iro, Inverni, Isabel Marant, New Scotland Cashmere, Issa, Odeeh, Reed Krakoff, Stouls, Superfine, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham Shoe brands: Acne, Alberto Fasciani, Golden Goose, Jimmy Choo, Ndc, Rocco P, Tod’s, Unützer

style in progress 214

130 IN STORE

When Personal Shoppers Open Stores 25 Park/New York. Alison Brettschneider was once responsible for the design department in a luxury department store - today, she runs shops for particularly choosy customers.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: 25 Park

Alison Brettschneider is always on the lookout for something new. After all, she has a reputation of always being able to find something that you can’t find anywhere else. The owner of 25 Park trained this ability extensively: Brettschneider used to be a personal shopper in New York’s high-end shopping store Bergdorf Goodman, but there she didn’t enjoy enough leeway to provide a platform for younger fashion designers.

In January 2008, she embarked on a mission of her own - starting off with a website and a popup shop on New York’s Upper East Side. Business was good, so pop-up shops in Malibu, New Jersey, and Connecticut followed swiftly. Brettschneider recalls that she signed on the dotted line whenever a lease became available on short notice.

What Upper East Side Customers Want

She has shaken off the pop-up attributes by now. A store on the Upper East Side became a permanent fixture and another was added in the trendy Hamptons – and this was just the beginning. Brettschneider opened her fifth store in 2012 - again on the Upper East Side, where it all began. It’s actually not far from her first permanent store, but nevertheless in a whole new world of its own. “The customers in Madison Avenue are much choosier than elsewhere; their wardrobe is much more coordinated and they usually want a clearly confined product range”, Brettschneider comments. “We also have significantly more foreign customers on Madison Avenue than in any of our other stores.”

Boutique Beneath the Luxury Hotel

Alison Brettschneider started studying her customers’ desires during her time at Bergdorf Goodman.

214 style in progress

This might well be due to the fact that all the windows above the store’s display windows belong to the prestigious hotel The Mark, where Kate Moss once thrashed her room. The building was completely renovated in

2009 by the French interior designer Jacques Grange, whose work has also included refurbishing property owned by celebrities such as Valentino and Caroline of Monaco. 25 Park wants to join forces with the hotel and offer several common activities.

“They will benefit both parties and will most certainly appeal to our respective clients”, says Brettschneider.

Origin, designer, and style are the factors that determine whether a product finds its way into Brettschneider’s stores.

Although 25 Park is clearly filling the wardrobes of a younger target audience and bringing downtown favourites such as Opening Ceremony, Acne, and Rick Owens to the more traditionally-inclined Upper East Side, Brettschneider doesn’t allow herself to be influenced by trends when it comes to purchasing.

Discovering New Talent

She prefers to buy items that aren’t just for the here-and-now, but that are exceptional enough to still have appeal in five years time. A principle that she also uses when buying items for herself. Her advice is to buy something that makes you look and feel really good. Naturally, she is also an advocate of very personal shopping advice.

25 Park mixes fresh ideas, such as those of Robin Brouillette and

25 Park 998 Madison Avenue, New York 10075/USA, T 001.888.5257275, www.25park.com Opening: November 2012 Owners: Alison and Andy Brettschneider Employees: 4 in this branch (33 in total) Sales area: 93 sqm Brands for women: Class Cavalli, Delpozo, Farah Kahn, Hache, Matthew Williamson, Nha Khanh, Nina Ricci, Raquel Allegra, Ter et Bantine

Ranjana Khan, with more wellknown - yet still not necessarily omnipresent - labels such as Gryphon and Behnaz Sarafpour.

For Brettschneider, this is not merely about following a clear concept, but about personal satisfaction. Finding a new talented designer is something that makes her happy, especially when she may play a part in his or her rise to fame.

IN STORE 131

25 Park offers a very personally selected range of fashion right below the rooms of the renowned hotel The Mark.

style in progress 214

132 editor'S Letter /// about us

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at

Valuable Coincidences

I

t's Tuesday evening in Berlin.

After a truly excellent, intensive, and long first day at the trade show, the plan is to have a quick bite with two dear friends before going to bed early. After all, the next day will be no less intensive. In the tiny Italian restaurant that we choose randomly, we - even more randomly - end up sharing a table with the chief buyer of a legendary department store and the VIP customer relations manager of a luxury online fashion store that has also already obtained a legendary status. This coincidence results in a brilliant and actually really funny evening from which I profit immensely as both a human being and a journalist.

Why am I telling you this story, you ask? I am telling this little anecdote because it is the perfect example of why a functioning trade show platform in a strong location is so important. This coincidence, which I sincerely hope was as rewarding for all other participants, can ultimately only materialise within the framework of a strong trade show. It can only happen in a place where the high potentials of an industry meet at a particular time. This kind of exchange, getting to know each other, and networking is an aspect of a trade show 214 style in progress

that should never be underestimated. If there was a lack of such opportunities, it would definitely weaken the industry quite literally.

This is why - even though it is important to be open for innovations - it is so vital that Berlin in its entirety remains the outstanding business-to-business stage it currently undisputedly is. That's what the fashion industry needs.

And I mean all participants of the industry. In this context, I would like to take the opportunity to express two large wishes, as well as one smaller one. First of all, I would like to see a concentration of strengths. I may do so without tabling a master plan explaining how this could be achieved. Furthermore, I would like to see a postponement of the dates. This would especially help the (international) women's collections to sensibly streamline the season's progress and - in my humble opinion - strengthen Berlin as an international location. I would also like to pass on this wish to the Pitti Uomo. A trade show during which many exhibitors don't even have valid price lists yet should at least question its timing.

That leaves my smaller wish. Do you find admittance bracelets as annoying as I do? I find them es-

pecially gruesome after a shower, when they have a tight wet grip of my wrist. There you go; we're on the same page.

However, this does prove that I really don't have much to complain about. I really don't actually. It was very, very good in Berlin.

Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at

Managing editor Stefanie Spreitzer stefanie.spreitzer@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Petrina Engelke Rebecca Espenschied Isabel Faiss Jan Joswig Mody Al Khufash Thesy Kness-Bastaroli Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Dörte Welti Katharina Wohlfahrt Photographers/Illustrators Susanne Boidol Stefan Milev Bernhard Musil Gina Müller Peter Schaffrath Peter Straub Ruy Teixeira Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing Print&Smile Druckgesellschaft m.b.H. Oberndorf/Salzburg Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627 BLZ 45010 Next issue 24 June 2014

SHOP ONLINE AT DRYKORN.COM

A MIX OF STYLES AND DIFFERENT FABRICS

IS WHAT MAKES MY OUTFIT PERFECT SELF-PORTRAIT STORIES #WOOLRICHSELFPORTRAITS

THE WOOLRICH TRAVEL JACKET

LIVE THE AUTHENTIC WOOLRICH EXPERIENCE ON THE NEW WOOLRICH.EU