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“If You Can’t Sell It at Full Price, Don’t Buy It.” Ulric Jerome, Ruth And Tom Chapman, Matchesfashion.com
€ 6.90
Specialised Items Instead of Assorted Goods – Everybody’s Darling Doesn’t Exist /// Creative Awakening – Italy’s Fashion Industry is Battling the Crisis /// Less is More – Order Volumes are Being Redistributed /// The Loyal Man – Shopping Grouches Become Favourite Customers
FTC CASHMERE SHOWROOMS DEUTSCHLAND, ÖSTERREICH, SCHWEIZ Rather Strasse 49c Mark Seebach Modeagentur Rote Halle Mariendorfer Damm 1-3 40476 Düsseldorf, Deutschland 12099 Berlin, Deutschland T +49 211 484 691 20 T +49 30 767 665 13
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Collectionen Christian Teufl Vierthalerstrasse 11 5020 Salzburg, Österreich T +43 662 45 28 32
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JL Fashion Agency GmbH Schwabachstrasse 33 8706 Feldmeilen, Schweiz T +41 79 636 65 74
002 EDITORIAL
Work Hard Welcome to these lines. One hears repeatedly that the fashion industry is hard work. Matchesfashion.com’s Tom Chapman touches upon this issue in the cover interview conducted by Quynh Tran (The Longview, from page 020) when he addresses the moment the founders realised that the online business demands enormous commitment: “We decided to embrace that hard work.” In this case, you can count yourself lucky if you decide to read the English original. “Embrace” is the perfect term. The German language lacks such a word in terms of work. Germans don’t tend to embrace work; at best, they dive into work. In all honesty, embracing sounds preferable. Immediately after the realisation that the fashion industry is hard work, most of our interviewees emphasise how much they love their respective professions. Just look at Frankie Morello’s Angela Ammaturo (“We Are Stated Optimists”, from page 056), who says: “The project fulfils me. I have worked on it almost without a break, yet I have never grown weary of the task. I am more than happy to be involved in all aspects of the business.” Or take Luigi Lardini, the creative director of Lardini, who chose more passionate words to describe his feelings (“Passion and Love Unites Us”, from page 060): “We are fighting for something we believe in on a daily basis.” Then there’s Harm Hesterberg, who - at 51 years of age - said “Yes, I do” to the fashion industry after leaving Stiesing (“Starting Over”, from page 086). We are amazingly privileged to experience the work of all these people up close and personally. In fairness, we are amazingly privileged to work in this tough - yet beautiful - industry. Professionalization
However, the harsh reality of our times has proven that one cannot survive on love and fresh air alone. That’s why we decided to dedicate a special section of our magazine to “Fast Shifting” (from page 026). The clock that demands change is ticking loudly. “Quick decisions, efficiency, flexibility, and a fully digitalised management of all processes are the key factors for success”, says Luca Orsatti of AT.P.CO and People of Sibuya (“I Love My Brands”, from 063). He illustrates what we have all secretly known for quite a while. This industry requires professionalism; it no longer tolerates a lack of expertise. Do it well - do it better! Your style in progress team
Cover photo: Trent McMinn
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004 CONTENT
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002 EDITORIAL Work Hard
006 RIGHT NOW 068 WANT IT THE LONGVIEW 020 “The Key Question Is: How Do We Learn From the Customer?” The three driving forces behind Matches fashion.com – founders Ruth and Tom Chapman, as well as CEO Ulric Jerome – on the courage to make mistakes and being passionate retailers
WHAT’S THE STORY FAST SHIFTING 026 Break the Endless Circle Stephan Huber on the ever-same laments 028 Difficult Times? We Prefer the Term Challenge! Our interviewees from the industry know how to deal with such challenges
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044 “If You Don’t Buy, You Can’t Sell“ Budget reduction based on the lawnmower principle? Not at all… 049 “Fashion Isn’t Our Business Anymore!” Franco Savastano, the CEO of Jelmoli, prefers style over fashion 050 Everyone Heading Home? Can production make a successful comeback in Europe? 053 “Germany Has a Culture of Innovation – We Need to Utilise It” Lisa Lang, the founder of fashion-tech start up ElektroCouture, on the possibilities harboured by 3D-printing 054 Bel Paese: Italian entrepreneurs tackle the crisis 056 “We Are Stated Optimists” Frankie Morello’s Angela Ammaturo on her family’s investment in the fashion business 058 “We Don’t Run Before We Can Walk” Ottod’Ame’s Silvia Mazzoli on strategic thinking
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064 “We Perceive Our Clients as Partners” Daniele Fiesoli bleeds passionate entrepreneurship 066 Moving Closer Together A new circle of retailers is forming: L‘Incontro
IN STORE 070 Do It Yourself Heckmann Store/Darmstadt 072 Memories of Lisbon Blue Sense/Heidelberg 074 A Home Dreist/Aachen 076 Coming Home Eibl am Kajetanerplatz/Salzburg 078 Modern Heritage Oeben’s Mercantile/Utrecht 080 … and Gentlemen Misc/Salzburg 082 Man, Man, Man Classico Man/Hamburg
034 Into the Niche Why doing what you do best is a good idea
060 “Passion and Love Unites Us” Luigi Lardini has reasons to believe in his family business
038 Man-cipation The hen, the egg, the rooster – why men’s fashion is more crisis-resistant
062 “We Don’t Want to Lose Sight of Craftsmanship” Alpha Studio’s Paolo Rossi has positioned his brand as a service specialist
086 Starting Over Sailor & Harbour/Bremerhaven
063 “I Love My Brands” An interview with Luca Orsatti, the mastermind behind AT.P.CO and People of Shibuya
Keep Your Story Straight!
043 “Everyone is Optimising External Perception” Henning Korb, a buyer at Apropos The Concept Store, believes the rejuvenation of fashion is essential
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084 Complete Apropos The Concept Store/Hamburg
088 EDITOR’S LETTER 088 ABOUT US
c a m pa i g n d e s i g n i n c o o p e r at i o n w i t h l e n a p e t e r s e n
JAnuArY 17–19 2017 s tAt i o n - b e r L i n
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Stefano Colombo, the head of marketing at Colmar, poses with Sunnyi Melles and Hubertus von Hohenlohe.
Colmar #colmarlive
Andrea Canè, the creative director of Woolrich Europe, is thrilled about the new Woolrich Germany subsidiary.
Woolrich New Subsidiary It is a fundamental step: Woolrich Germany is the brand’s new subsidiary for the German and Austrian markets. “Both countries are essential strategic markets for the success and growth of Woolrich John Rich & Bros”, says Andrea Canè, the creative director of Woolrich Europe. “We are very pleased to work even more closely with our German partners and this step is a significant investment in the development of our brand value.” Henrik Soller and Florian Ranft, whose agency Komet und Helden is a long-standing Woolrich representative, are active partners in the new venture, which is - just like the agency itself headquartered in Munich. Germany and Austria form the second most important market for Woolrich. The aim of the new subsidiary is to promote the brand’s development and growth in this market in a more efficient manner. The strategic focus is on strengthening the partnerships with the most successful retailers and establishing new shop-in-shop areas. Currently, Woolrich is stocked by 180 boutiques and department stores in Germany and Austria. In addition, the brand operates own stores in Munich, Berlin, Hamburg, and Sylt. The opening of another store in Stuttgart is scheduled for early 2017. Furthermore, cities such as Vienna, Düsseldorf, and Frankfurt are seen as preferred locations for further store openings. In May, Woolrich presented its first pre-collection for spring/summer 2017. The proposed delivery date is in November. This pre-collection is the first step of a new rhythm involving four collections per year with six delivery dates. This switch is aimed at ensuring a continuous supply of goods for retail partners. www. woolrich.eu
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A recent event, which took place in Vienna in October, afforded visitors the opportunity to experience the Colmar brand at first hand. The party in the main hall at “Laabstelle” was attended by celebrities such as the photographer Hubertus von Hohenlohe, the actress Sunnyi Melles, and the presenter Bianca Schwarzjirg. Furthermore, Constantin zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn manned the DJ booth. Stefano Colombo, the head of marketing at Colmar, travelled to Vienna for the event to ensure that 150 customers, press representatives, and society figures were able to experience the brand holistically. The current winter collection was presented on the catwalk. With such events under the motto – and hash tag - #colmarlive, the brand strives to improve its direct interaction with customers, strengthen its brand positioning, and – of course – gain market shares. Following the event in Vienna, Colmar is moving on to the next European capital: Paris! www.colmar.it
0039 Italy Statement Early September, the brand 0039 Italy opened its seventh store in the Ma’ro Opernquartier, Frankfurt’s new premium fashion district. “Our actions are always preceded by long reflection”, says Aysen Bitzer-Bourak, the businesswoman who founded the Stuttgart-based brand with her husband, Rachid Bourak. “The construction of the Ma’ro presented us with a wonderful opportunity to present 0039 Italy in Frankfurt.” Since the inception of 0039 Italy 15 years ago, the brand has been the embodiment of the feminine blouse, complemented by
a complete collection including accessories. The typical features of 0039 Italy are energetic colours and imaginative patterns, often combined with refined cuts and lovingly detailed appliqués. All materials are sourced exclusively from Italy and all products are manufactured in Europe. 0039 Italy stores can be found in Florence, Berlin, and Munich. “Nevertheless, we perceive high-end specialised retailers as our partners of choice and they are vital for the success of our brand”, Aysen Bitzer-Bourak emphasises. “While representative locations such as Frankfurt are strategically important, they will remain an exception in the future.” www.0039italy.com
The seventh 0039 Italy store is located in Ma’ro Opernquartier, Frankfurt’s new fashion district.
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PME Legend First Flagship Store in Germany The opening of the first PME Legend flagship store, located in the Centro shopping centre in Oberhausen, is scheduled for late October. The entire collection of the Dutch menswear brand, which is known for its distinctive concept based on cargo pilots, will be showcased on a sales area of 270 square metres. The interior design of the flagship store is based on the look of the exhibition stands and shop-in-shop areas, which are staged elaborately with plenty of aged wood and riveted steel. Decorative elements such as old aircraft engines with large propellers, wing portions, and onboard instruments from old American planes skilfully reflect the brand’s aviator look to the smallest detail. Last year, PME Legend opened its very first, 400 square metre mono-brand flagship store in Antwerp, the fashion capital of Belgium. A second flagship store was opened in Gent. The PME Legend brand is part of Netherlands-based Just Brands Group. Up until now, PME Legend has more than 500 customers from the German specialised retail industry. www.pme-legend.com A breath of fresh air in Centro - PME Legend brings freedom and adventure to Oberhausen.
Kunert Blue Act and Think Green In Immenstadt in Oberallgäu, Kunert, a traditional company known for its high-quality stockings and socks for men, women, and children, has managed to implement a programme dedicated to quality, trend-consciousness, and environmental responsibility after a development period of no more than six months. The impetus for the launch of the new “Blue Line” was the question whether it is possible to manufacture high-end fashion products from scrap materials. The result is a pair of tights made of Econyl, a material which is, in turn, made of 100 percent waste such as fishing nets. It therefore comes as no surprise World debut - the Kunert “Blue” that the claim of the new line tights are made of nylon waste is: “Fashion that respects the that was literally fished out of the circle of life.” From 21 January ocean. 2017 onwards, the line will be offered by retailers such as KaDeWe, Breuninger, Ludwig Beck, and Engelhorn. It consists of three tights in up to eight colours at retail prices between 16 and 18 Euros. Kunert published its first environmental performance evaluation as early as 1991 and now intends to prove that up-cycling really works. In May, Kunert presented its tights made of recycled nylon at the Green Tec Awards in Munich. The first edition of the sustainable tights can be pre-ordered on greenwindow.com. The pre-ordered tights will be delivered for Christmas, roughly four weeks before the official launch at retailers. www.kunert.de
CG Club of Gents What a Queue! During the Panorama trade show, CG Club of Gents created quite a stir by offering minimal tattoos free of charge. It didn’t take long for retailers such as Wagener, Reischmann, and Breuninger to realise that such an event would attract a lot of customers to their respective stores. The first stops of the CG Club of Gents Road Show at Wagener Baden-Baden and Reischmann Kempten were very well attended. However, the event at Breuninger in Nuremberg blew everyone out of the water. Almost five hours before the doors were scheduled to be opened on a so-called Shopping Sunday, a substantial queue had formed in front of the store. 6,000 people had committed to attending the event on Facebook. Jürgen Putzer, the head of marketing at CG Club of Gents, explains: “Unconventional and surprising ideas - as in our example - can turn the PoS into a veritable rock concert. Sometimes courage is more important than a substantial investment.” The road show continues. CG Club of Gents has proven that it made the right choice to focus its strategy on social media channels. www.cg.fashion 416 style in progress
A queue had formed long before the doors were scheduled to open CG Club of Gents promised its fans free minimal tattoos.
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Einwaller Family Statement The Einwaller dynasty has never shied away from bold investment decisions. This courage is one of the main reasons why the family business has developed into a leading stationary retailer in the premium fashion segment. In this spirit, Einwaller has decided to pursue yet another avenue of growth by launching its online shop (Einwaller.com) mid-August. “We have been preparing this step for a long time. Our entry into the online market comes relatively late, but we can take advantage of the fact that the technology involved is now truly mature”, says Theresa Minatti-Einwaller. “To secure our future, we need to combine the online and stationary worlds, especially as we are located in a tourist area. The online shop affords us an opportunity to serve our customers throughout the year.” There are no less than six Einwaller stores in the historic city centre of Innsbruck. “Anna” and “Joseph” cover the high-end designer segment, while “Sportsmann” and “Sportsfrau” offer more athletic fashion for women and men. Furthermore, Einwaller has a shop for kids and an outlet store. “Our online presence does not represent our entire portfolio; we use it to showcase what we consider to be exciting and innovative”, says Theresa Minatti-Einwaller, who is responsible for procurement. “We stand for design and colour. We strive to ensure that this is how we are perceived online.” The driving force behind the online shop is Ambros Einwaller, Theresa Minatti-Einwaller’s brother. She herself is the head buyer for the womenswear department, while her husband, Alexander Minatti, is responsible for the menswear segment. The founder of the company is Josef Einwaller. He is the boss and visionary who maps out the strategy of the business. www.einwaller.com
Jana Kern & Alex Vogt Corporate Social Respon sibility One family, one business - every member of the Einwaller clan has a very specific area of responsibility. The family remains very close and treats all employees as if they are family members too. Josef Einwaller (right) is the head of the family and the company.
Sagmeister Eleventy Monostore In mid-September, the first Eleventy mono-brand store outside Italy was opened to the public in the Austrian town of Dornbirn - of all places. Clemens Sagmeister, the driving force behind Sagmeister Der Mann, recently decided to rethink his retail approach in this particular town. “Our customers don’t want to see the apprentice - they want to see the master craftsman. Even the people from Dornbirn prefer to shop at our main store in Bregenz. Consequently, we opted for a completely different approach at the branch in Dornbirn.” The 100 square metre Eleventy store was remodelled by Parisotto & Formenton, a renowned Italian architecture firm which designed the flagship stores of Ferragamo (Tokyo) and Nespresso (Paris) in the past. www.sagmeister.at, www.eleventy.com
200 guests attended the grand opening of the Eleventy store.
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At the Munich Fabric Start trade show, Jana Kern, a journalist and textile/clothing engineer, and Alex Vogt, a textile industry economist, jointly presented their book “Future. Fashion. Economics. - A Guide to Future-Oriented, Responsible Economic Thinking in the Fashion Industry”. The authors are communication and strategy consultants specialising in corporate responsibility and are eager to reinterpret the term sustainability. To this end, they interlink innovation with new patterns of thinking and create a forward-thinking image of the fashion and textile industries. Utilising various scenarios, best-practice examples, dossiers, and interviews with experts, they highlight the current developments and provide recommendations for successful, responsible action. The blurb promises compulsory reading for decision and policy makers from the fashion, retail, and creative industries, as well as for all who are interested in looking at corporate governance and value creation from a different perspective. The 208-page book in German and English was published in Deutscher Fachverlag. It costs 68 Euros and can be ordered in even the smallest bookstores by using the registry code ISBN 978-3-86641-316-0. www.dfv-fachbuch.de
T H E M A R K E T P L AC E F O R FA S H I O N A N D L I F E S T Y L E 1 7 – 1 9 J A N U A RY 2 0 1 7 W W W. PA N O R A M A- B E RL I N .C O M
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Amtraq Distribution Time keepers
Room Nine Agency Jacket Innovation They weigh practically nothing, yet they still keep you warm. Kanuk, a high-end jacket collection from Montreal, is a recent addition to the portfolio of Room Nine Agency. “The down is lighter than anything ever seen before”, says Torsten Müller, the owner of the fashion agency. “In addition, no down feathers can pass through the fabric due to the revolutionary Thindown fleece layer.” Kilt Heritage, on the other hand, is in its second season with Torsten Müller. The jackets and coats, which are manufactured in Italy, are windproof and waterproof. Furthermore, the collection boasts 14 colours per style and various options in terms of lining materials. The latter range from graphic designs to palm patterns. The retail prices range from 139 to 199 Euros at a calculation factor of 3.0. Rainfest’s highly fashionable Piogg line hails from Amsterdam. “All coats are waterproof, but the real special feature is the material. The company has managed to develop waterproof wool and Jacquard wool”, Torsten Müller explains. C.P. Company remains one of the classics within Room Nine Agency’s portfolio. “Last season was excellent once again and we managed to persuade, among others, the likes of Masculin Modekreis and Breuninger to commit to the brand”, Müller adds. He intends to improve the support he offers his retail customers at the PoS even more by offering better service and product training sessions. Labels: Blake Seven Shirts, C.P. Company, Flip Flop the Original, Kanuk Jackets, Kilt Heritage Rainwear, Piogg Rain Couture, Sunhouse, Womsh Sneaker Room Nine Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de
From this year onwards, Amtraq Distribution, a Frankfurt-based fashion agency, represents the Timex Archive collection in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The collection can still be ordered in time for Christmas business. This collection is – quite deliberately – not sold at jewelleries, watch shops, and department stores, but at haberdashers, heritage stores, accessories shops, and concept stores. Timex, which was founded in 1854, is one of the world’s oldest watchmakers. The collection is based on famous models that were found in Timex’s enormous archive in the US town of Waterbury. The brand has devised a presentation device that resembles an old record Timex Archive watches are equipped with “Made player; it allows customers in Italy” watchbands. to select a watch with a sec-
ond band in the respective stores. Most of the outdoor and sport models, military watches such as the MK1, and classic models from the 1940s and 1950s with Ivy League and Preppy influences are equipped with textile bands, nato-straps, or washed leather bands. All watchbands are designed and manufactured in Italy. The retail prices range from 60 to 150 Euros. The driving force behind these watchstraps is Cristiano Berto, the founder and head designer of the brand 1st Pat-Rn. Incidentally, Amtraq Distribution is also the representative of Berto’s brand in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, as well as in Belgium and The Netherlands. Labels: 1st Pat-Rn, Croots, East Harbour Surplus, Manifattura Ceccarelli, Orcival, Tellason, Timex Archive, Topo Designs, Vetra AMTRAQ Distribution GmbH & Co. KG, Frankfurt/Germany, T 0049.69.96230423, mail@amtraq.com, www.amtraq.com
Everything from one source Ben And offers its brands and customers services that go far beyond the usual portfolio of a fashion agency.
Ben And 360 Degrees
The Dutch brand Blake Seven is known for prints on sweats and tees - the collection is represented by Room Nine Agency.
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“We strive to provide our brands with what we call 360-degree service”, says Ben Botas, the owner of the fashion agency Ben And. He has already turned his words into action. In Munich, he recently opened a separate office for logistics and licensing with seven new employees. Also new: an own e-commerce unit with three employees. For now, the latter focuses on the online business of Ben Sherman, a license brand of Ben And. Only recently, Heike Schwimmbeck, who used to be the head of e-commerce at Strenesse, has been named head of e-commerce at Ben And. “We are currently in talks with other exciting brands that are interested in our 360-degree service”, Botas reveals. He intends to expand his own retail network too. “We currently manage four Ben Sherman stores ourselves. As a first step, we will add two stores in Hamburg and Frankfurt in 2017.” With this level of service, the agency becomes fully integrated. “Production, logistics, wholesale, and both stationary and online retailing, as well as marketing and visual merchandising - we look at all of our brands comprehensively”, Botas maps out his strategy. There are also innovations to report in terms of showrooms. “We added two new employees to our showroom team in Düsseldorf.” Labels: Ben Sherman, Cervolante, Dstrezzed, iBlues, Ivy Copenhagen, Manuel Ritz, Mason’s, Matinique, Nabholz, Sand Copenhagen, Refrigiwear Ben And, Düsseldorf/Hamburg/Munich/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com
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Marco Stein Concepts New Impulses
The spring/summer 2017 collection by Nobi Talai took visitors of the Paris Fashion Week on a stylistic journey between Orient and Occident.
Most people know Marco Stein from the time when he successfully established J Brand in the EMEA region or as country manager/sales director for 7 For All Mankind. Today, he runs his own consulting agency based in Berlin. “In addition to consulting established businesses in the premium and luxury segment, I focus on supporting young labels in the lifestyle sector. I strive to supply them with new impulses and access to a first-class network. I perceive myself as a kind of ‘contact man’ who - upon request - puts the labels in touch with the relevant people from the retail industry, the media world, and society in general. The customer requirements are quite diverse, depending on how the respective business is set up. My job is primarily concerned with specific advice in terms of market requirements, commercial aspects, pricing, site selection, event planning, marketing, and sales issues”, Marco Stein says while explaining his agency’s business concept. Berlin-based designer Nobi Talai (nobitalai.com) and the brand Vana (www.vana-shree.com) are the reference customers we are currently allowed to name. Marco Stein Concepts, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.172.2120120, ms@steinconcepts.com, www.steinconcepts.com
Vestitus At the Highest Level The Tortona 21 label, which is part of the Antonelli stable, is a new addition to the portfolio of Vestitus. The knitwear collection is defined by purist style and Italian elegance. The retail prices for cashmere items range from 180 to 300 Euros, while linen items cost between 140 and 250 Euros. “We stand for collections that embody the ‘Made in Italy’ feeling”, says Peter Haertel, the managing director of Vestitus. “These collections are timeless and meet the highest standards in terms of quality and craftsmanship.” As such a specialised agency, Peter Haertel focuses strongly on the product itself. Examples include a printed silk blazer by Alberto Biani, a sheath dress by Antonelli, and a double monk by Santoni. The latter is a buckled shoe that has been reinterpreted as sporty sneakers with a rubber base. The Jacob Cohën brand, which has its roots in the jeans segment, is currently pushing a special denim wall concept that is aimed at creating a more professional presentation at the point of sale. Furthermore, Vestitus pursues a strategy of exceptional service. “We strive to evaluate sales figures swiftly in order to be able to respond appropriately as soon as possible”, Haertel explains. This includes a commitment to measures such as trunk shows, product training, and made-to-measure events. Labels: Antonelli, Alberto Biani, Fedeli, Finamore, Herno, Jacob Cohën, L.B.M., Olivieri, Santoni, Tortona 21 Vestitus GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, service@vestitus.eu, www.vestitus.eu
Antonelli from Florence is perceived as one of Vestitus‘ shooting stars. It currently serves 80 customers in Germany and Austria.
Opening Ceremony is one the new additions to the Brama brand portfolio.
Brama Gallery From the Under ground Local Authority Los Angeles is a new addition to the brand portfolio of Brama. The label - with the slogan “The Fucked Up Friends Club” hails from Malibu (California) and started off with a pre-spring collection for 2017. It was founded by two friends with a shared passion for vintage style, art, and music. The collection reflects the underground culture of the surf, skateboarding, and motorbike scenes of Los Angeles. The likes of Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, and Kirsten Stewart are among the label’s celebrity fans. The list of “fans” from the German retail universe includes Stylebop, Mytheresa, Breuninger, Petra Teufel, Pool, and Jades. The purchase prices range from 85 Euros for t-shirts to between 85 and 105 Euros for sweats. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. Opening Ceremony is yet another new addition to the Brama portfolio. “We are very pleased to welcome this particular newcomer to our ranks, especially as the label is a perfect match for our existing brand portfolio and serves the readyto-wear segment. Up until now, we were not present in this segment in this shape and form”, says Renzo Braglia, the managing director of Brama. Opening Ceremony was launched in 2002 by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. The label has since developed into a global business. The purchase prices range from 125 Euros for trousers to 250 Euros for bomber jackets. The mark-up is 2.7. Brama Gallery has been appointed for the distribution of both collections in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, while the Brama Group is responsible for the entire European market, the Middle East, and Russia. Labels: Current Elliott, Enza Costa, Equipment, Grey Jason Wu, Isapera, James Perse, JBrand, Local Authority, Mother, Norma Kamali, Opening Ceremony Brama Fashion Gallery, Düsseldorf and Munich/Germany, info@bramagallery.de, www.bramagallery.de
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Hinterhof agentur Stock Works Despite temperatures that would be more fitting for late summer than autumn, Hinterhofagentur is more than satisfied with business. “Who had the courage to plan an adequate stock beyond the pre-order, can now profit from that courage. Customers are also open to new products, as long as they fit into their respective product ranges. This allowed us – in some cases – to introduce a few customers to new brands”, Dominik Meuer explains. His suppliers have adapted to the ever-changing customer needs and – correspondingly – stocked their warehouses well. The women’s outerwear segment of Hinterhofagentur’s portfolio is dominated by brands such as Des Petits Hauts, Lab Dip, Wyse, and Cape Horn, while the men’s segment is defined by the likes of Breco’s, Bob, Wool & Co, Cape Horn, and Portofiori. “Today, we can serve some pre-orders with what we already have in stock. Our customers really appreciate this kind of service. We encourage our suppliers to stock their warehouses sensibly according to season. Bob, for example, has decided to re-issue the bestsellers from its coat range with a three-week production time. Such short-term ‘quick shots’ increase the hit rate at the PoS.” Labels: Bob, Breco’s, Cape Horn, Des Petits Hauts, Lab Dip, My Bro Tie, My Sunday Morning, Portofiori, Rose & Rose, The Jacksons, Wool & Co, Wyse Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de
Among other brands in the Hinterhofagentur portfolio, Cape Horn has decided to focus its service on a comprehensive stock programme.
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Heritage Agents Everything for the Customer “The demands our brands are facing in terms of follow-up orders have definitely increased this season”, says Heritage Agents’ Malte Kötteritz. For the coming season, the fashion agency, which is based in Munich’s Lodenfrey Park, has decided to stick with its existing portfolio. The respective suppliers were briefed accordingly: “They have taken on this important issue and repositioned themselves.” Malte Kötteritz refers to both seasonal and all-year NOS goods and stock programmes. Their numbers have increased in total, mainly because the demand for individually manufactured products as a follow-up option has risen too. “The focus has clearly shifted to the fulfilment of specific consumer desires. That s why we afford our customers the possibility to transfer stock and facilitate imports from other markets.” Labels: 04651/, Coats Milano, Lardini, Mey Story, Pantaloni Torino Heritage Agents, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-agents.com, www.heritage-agents.com
Coats, an Italian coat collection, is one of Heritage Agents’ many success stories.
MAB Modeagentur Benabou Fashionable Free Spirits Regis Benabou’s fashion agency continues to expand its business. With immediate effect, he has been appointed as the global representative of Rachel Zoe - a task which he will tackle from his base in Düsseldorf. The US label’s first collection under the auspices of MAB was actually for spring/summer 2015. Only recently, MAB opened a showroom in Paris, which will showcase the entire range of Rachel Zoe consisting of ready-to-wear fashion, accessories, and footwear. The agency has also been named as the global representative of the two new additions to its brand portfolio: Designers Remix and Lunar Society. Designers Remix is inspired by the American sportswear of the 1970s, as seen in the film “The Royal Tenenbaums” by Wes Anderson: minimalistic, soft, and luxurious. The Lunar Society was only recently founded in Düsseldorf. It is a fashion-oriented homage to the eponymous society of scientists and philosophers which was founded in 1765. These free thinkers of the 18th century met once a month at full moon to explore lunar creative power. Lunar Society’s line of basics is gender neutral and highlights the respective body shapes of its wearers, while the fashion line is dedicated to wearable avant-garde items and purist chic. The latter consists of socially acceptable cotton t-shirts and light knitwear made of cashmere and silk. Labels: 3∙1 Phillip Lim, Ba&sh, BLK DNM, Designers Remix, Jimmy Choo Textile Accessoires, Lunar Society, Kenzo Men Shoes, Mackage, National Standard, Paul & Joe, Paul & Joe Sister, Proenza Schouler, Rachel Zoe, The Kooples, The Kooples Sport, The Kooples Jeans MAB Modeagentur Benabou, Düsseldorf/Germany, dirkhellfeuer@mab-fashion.com, www.mab-fashion.com
Designers Remix is one of the new additions to MAB’s brand portfolio. The fashion agency has been appointed as the label’s global representative.
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Gallery Düsseldorf New Duration Igedo Company has decided to shorten the duration of the Gallery Düsseldorf trade show to three days and to unify all segments accordingly. This means that the trade fair will, in the future, start on Saturday and end on Monday. This not only applies to the order business on the Böhler site, but also to the Gallery Evening & Occasion segment. The latter is expected to experience further growth under the Gallery umbrella and to profit from the adapted scheduling. Ulrike Kähler, the project director at Gallery, explains: “The change of the duration is the result of a visitor data analysis that confirmed our suspicion. Three days are enough for a successful order business in Düsseldorf. This does not affect our well-known showroom concept for agencies and premium brands, which offers the opportunity to arrange appointments beyond the duration of the Gallery trade show - both before and after.” In the course of creating more clarity and structure for exhibitors and visitors, the Organic Fair Trade Fashion segment has been renamed to Green@GALLERY. The segment was already expanded significantly in July 2016 and attracted a lot of interest from potential new exhibitors. “International agencies, previous exhibitors, and newly interested parties are currently signalling their intent to attend our event in January 2017. For us, the fact that our customers are eager to return regularly shows that they are satisfied. This makes me positive for the future. I know that we are pursuing the right strategy for the Gallery trade fair”, Ulrike Kähler says. 28th to 30th of January 2017, www.gallery-duesseldorf.com
Identical duration for all segments of the Gallery order platform in Düsseldorf.
GDS Closer to the Season
From November onwards, the Panorama trade show will be accessible for consumers. The first step is the “soft launch” of the Panorama Digital B2C Version, a feature that allows consumers to stroll through the trade fair virtually.
Panorama RetailOriented Panorama has once again expanded its exhibitor portfolio by adding lingerie, underwear, and home wear. To mark the premiere of the new segment, approximately 40 brands will showcase their collections on 1,300 square metres. The brands in question include the likes of DKNY, Guess, Spanx, Stella McCartney, and Bruno Banani. There will also be a lounge and a stage in Panorama’s high-quality ambience. The event for the autumn/winter 2017/2018 season offers a new concept with two halls, in which shoes and accessories are presented side by side. “We have decided to reunite footwear and accessories in order to create an
inspiring overall picture”, says Jörg Wichmann, the CEO of Panorama Berlin. “In addition, we want to break up the individual stands and create central areas where we can present products in a more retail-oriented manner.” The Hipstar segment for plus-sizes is also being expanded by adding an additional 1,300 square metre hall. From November onwards, the trade show opens itself to consumers with its Panorama Digital B2C Version. This new features allows consumers to stroll through the trade fair virtually; they can let themselves be inspired by the exhibitor’s current collections. A store locator links the digital platform with the retail industry. 17th to 19th of January 2017, www.berlin-panorama.com
For the upcoming GDS scheduled for early February, Messe Düsseldorf expects more than 700 brands to attend. The trade fair will take place from Tuesday to Thursday. The subsequent event in summer 2017 will, however, take place early September from Sunday to Tuesday. This means that the GDS will revert more to its former rhythm and thus adhere closer to the season. “The shoe industry remains in motion and we need to react to this”, says Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, the chairman of Messe Düsseldorf. “Three years ago, we positioned the GDS as a communication and information trade show by moving it to an earlier date after talks with both the industry and retailers. That matched the status-quo at the time. A lot has happened in the meantime and the footwear market has gained great momentum. It has emerged that the industry wants a strong, international GDS; the industry also highlighted the importance of the GDS moving closer to the season.” The trade show in September will take place from Sunday to Tuesday to accommodate smaller retailers by bypassing the days with the highest revenue. 7th to 9th of February 2017, www.gds-online.com
The GDS reacts to the momentum of the footwear market.
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Munich Fabric Start Strategic Clout In its capacity as one of the world’s largest trade shows for fabrics and additionals, the Munich Fabric Start has decided to celebrate its 20th anniversary by increasing its “clout” quite significantly and making a clear statement in terms of strategic orientation. With the MOC and the adjacent “Zenith Gelände”, the exhibition area for pioneering segments with high development potential has been expanded by more than 2,500 square metres to a total area of 42,500 square metres. “In the light of content-related and areal expansion, the Munich Fabric Start reiterates its position as an interactive communication platform. The newly created ‘Keyhouse’, which we will continue to develop in 2017,
and ‘Catalyzer’, which is the new hall 6 in the ‘Bluezone’ that focuses on the topics heritage, sustainability, and innovation, have cemented our positioning as a future-oriented trade show format for a market that pulsates and craves new concepts. One of our strengths is the high degree of flexibility and the ability to react quickly and unconventionally to challenges and developments in the industry and the market”, says Sebastian Klinder, the managing director of the Munich Fabric Start. The next View Premium Selection for spring/summer 2018 will take place on the 6th and 7th of December 2016 in the MVG. It is a chronologically logical trade show format and offers a first opportunity to view new materials and colour trends. 31st of January to 2nd of February 2017, www.munichfabricstart.com
The Munich Fabric Start has been expanded in terms of content and area.
Supreme Women & Men No Time Difference As per usual, the upcoming Supreme Women & Men events take place from Saturday to Tuesday. The Munichfashion Company GmbH is delighted to enjoy a very satisfactory booking situation and remains in permanent dialogue with many other manufacturers and agencies. “The retail industry in particular requires planning security and a reliable partner/service provider in terms of trade shows. In Düsseldorf’s B1 on “Bennigsen-Platz”, we expect more than 480 collections. In Munich’s MTC, we expect more than 780 collections in “Haus 1”. And we’re still counting. This is why we have decided not to change the days and duration of our trade fairs. There is no reason to change anything from our point of view. Furthermore, constant change confuses both visitors and exhibitors. The dates of both events - and their day sequence - are perfect. In Düsseldorf and Munich, the retail industry follows the order dates in a very concentrated manner, which is why a duration of four days is unavoidable. Retailers spend a lot more time at a trade show than they did a few seasons ago”, says Aline Schade, the managing director of Munichfashion Company GmbH. Supreme Women & Men Düsseldorf - 28th to 31st of January 2017, Supreme Women & Men Munich - 11th to 14th of February 2017, www.munichfashioncompany.com
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Premium, Seek, Bright, #Fashion tech Moving to Zenith In the upcoming season, the Premium Order Munich trade show will return to the “Zenith Halle”; it will also occupy the newly designed exhibition and event venues known as “Kohlebunker” and “Kesselhaus” on the adjacent “Zenith Gelände”. From Friday to Sunday (10th to 12th of February 2017), approximately 800 premium collections will be showcased on the 10,000 square metres of exhibition area offered by the former industrial site and its buildings, of which some are even landmarked. The Premium Order Munich already called the “Zenith Gelände” its home from 2006 to 2013. By utilising an emotionalised brand presentation in front of an industrial backdrop - paired with reduced interior design, clear hall structures, and an optimised routing system - the Premium Order Munich hopes to create the necessary dramaturgy and sophisticated working atmosphere that the upscale specialised retailers crave. “After five successful events in the MOC, we are pleased to return to the ‘Zenith Gelände’ and to utilise its extraordinary atmosphere for the adequate presentation
of brands and their collections. Service is paramount for all premium events and it is also our most important USP. In co-operation with the Munich Fabric Start trade show, we can - once again - offer optimised logistical standards and an ideal working atmosphere at the ‘Zenith Gelände’. This is what our customers expect from us”, says Anita Tillmann, a managing partner at Premium Group. In line with #Fashiontech, a technology-centred conference jointly hosted by Premium and Seek in Berlin, the service range for exhibitors has been expanded and now includes the development and implementation of digital content strategies. In addition, established services - such as customer-specific networking events, outdoor advertising outside the venue, sponsoring, and the integration of brand profiles in the app, on the website, or the Premium magazine - have also been enhanced. The focus remains on the incorporation of new trends and new segments such as Activewear or the Cosmetics & Beauty area. The latter is located in the premises dedicated to accessories. This means that the trade show always offers a string of new brands in order to give buyers a more balanced overview of the market and a glimpse of emerging trends. 17th to 19th of January 2017 www.premiumexhibitions.com www.fashiontech.berlin www.seekexhibitions.com www.brighttradeshow.com
Supreme Women & Men is thrilled to report a good booking situation.
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Selvedge Run Bigger with Japan The fourth edition of the Selvedge Run trade show, which takes place in the landmarked “Kulturbrauerei” in Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg district, boasts a larger exhibition area due to the addition of a fifth hall. An absolute highlight is the community stand organised by the Japanese town of Kurashiki, the denim capital located in the Okayama Prefecture. It will showcase the five local brands 241 Co., Kojima Market Place, Senio Second, TCB Jeans, and Whoval. Each of these brands has never exhibited its respective product range at a European trade show before; and they all collaborate with the best manufactories in the Okayama region. This ensures that the fascinating denim collections are manufactured at the highest possible standard. In addition, the Selvedge Run has decided to introduce a concept store. It houses the non-textile segments: Home, Mobility, Outdoor, Food, and Men’s Grooming. This step is the trade show’s reaction to the continuing trend that menswear stores expand their production ranges with matching lifestyle products in order to offer their customers an all-encompassing range of products. 17th to 19th of January 2017, www.selvedgerun.com
Interesting discussions and good business - the Selvedge Run trade show is a place for concentrated work.
Der Berliner Mode Salon Co-Operation with Luisa Via Roma
Getty Images für den Berliner Mode Salon
In order to promote the national and international awareness for fashion design from Berlin, to highlight the relevance of fashion as a cultural and economic asset in Germany, and to establish a new, challenging, and self-confident understanding of German fashion, the “Der Berliner Mode Salon” initiative has included the sales aspect in its concept right from the start. After securing its own area in Berlin’s KaDeWe last season, the initiative has agreed upon its first international co-operation with Luisa Via Roma. The focus is on eight collections by designers such as Odeeh, Gabriele Frantzen, Michael Sontag, René Storck, and Tim Labenda. On the 13th of January 2017, the looks by the Berlin-based designers ordered by Luisa Via Roma will be offered in the Florentine concept store for two weeks and on a specially created landing page of the web shop for the entire season. Andrea Panconesi, the managing director of Luisa Via Roma, says: “I am thrilled about the co-operation and looking forward to the new discoveries that will expand our German product range in the store. I love creativity, innovation, and excellence; the ambitious selection of “Der Berliner Mode Salon” is a perfect match for us.” 17th to 19th of January 2017, www.derberlinermodesalon.com
Opinion Piece
Aggressive Signals The takeover of the Show & Order trade fair by the Premium Group may have been a surprise initially, but the step is inherently logical. With this step, the Premium Group continues on its path of differentiation - in other words: the creation of consistent style worlds. This strategy is not a simple undertaking and has been the subject of many discussions. Let’s not forget that trade shows are also affected by the enormous transformation that is turning the fashion industry upside down. It is a major challenge to establish a sustainable positioning in this completely new market environment. “Is there something new here?”, “Why is everything suddenly different now?”, or “This really doesn’t fit together!” etc. I have heard these debates for no less than 25 years. Whatever you do, it will always seem wrong to some. It’s a bit like the weather, really. The crucial questions for the Premium Group are quite different: 1. Does the fashion industry need trade shows today and in the future? 2. How can the added value and relevance of a trade fair be defined? 3. Which strengths does Berlin have as a trade show location? The takeover of the Show & Order shows that the Premium Group is willing to tackle these questions assertively and with entrepreneurial courage. This is an important and optimistic signal. (sh)
Odeeh show at “Der Berliner Mode Salon” in summer 2016.
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THIS ONE TIME, A BUYER WALKED INTO A SHOWROOM AND ...
FUN
WHY FASHION HAS LOST ONE OF ITS SUCCESS FACTORS ... AND WHAT WE CAN DO TO REMEDY THE SITUATION! STYLE IN PROGRESS #1/2017
Erscheinungstermin: Publication date: 12. 12thJanuar of January 20172017
office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at/magazine/style-in-progress/
020 THE LONGVIEW
Tom Chapman describes himself as a truly passionate retailer. He believes the fusion of stationary roots and digital commerce is entirely logical.
Tom Chapman “The Key Question Is: How Do We Learn From the Customer?� 416 style in progress
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Ruth Chapman likes to be courageous in terms of procurement. The special product range ensures that Matchesfashion.com attracts a particularly fashion-conscious clientele.
As standouts in the luxury e-commerce landscape, Ruth and Tom Chapman have developed Matchefashion.com from a small bricks-and-mortar business into a global online luxury player that is profitable and has become the darling of fashion brands. With the move to “The Shard� and their new chief executive officer Ulric Jerome, London is now - literally at the feet of the fast growing luxury fashion site. Interview: Quynh Tran. Photos: Trent McMinn and Matchesfashion.com
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022 THE LONGVIEW
The head office of Matchesfashion.com has just moved to “The Shard”, the most visible landmark in London and the highest building in Europe – how symbolical is that move for your company?
Tom Chapman: We ran five offices before and everybody was running around living on e-mails. But this world is about communication and running a business is about collaboration. Now, we’re becoming a global business and we want to create it in a space we’re proud of. It’s not a corporate thing, but you have to feel the DNA of a business when you walk in to it and hopefully you notice a few things around here, such as the vintage pieces and personalised elements. You have to feel the sort of aura created by things that feel special, that feel like somebody cares. So this move was incredibly important and a defining moment in our history, because we’re bringing our people together in a space we feel good in. Speaking of history, what was life like when you were still a small store in Wimbledon Village before the age of digitalisation? What made you push for change?
Ruth Chapman: At the beginning, we started with nothing. We painted the first store ourselves. The location hadn’t developed yet and the street was very quiet. There were weeks when there were no customers at all and we thought this wasn’t going to work. Tom immediately installed a computer and took the data of everybody who came so we could write to them. We would start to rally and send everybody a note that we’re doing something and invite people for wine and talk about what we just had delivered. And we would make sales. We didn’t get that many customers coming in. When we did, we had to take great care of them, because we needed them to come back. As a result, the customer service developed and our business
became focused on relationships very quickly. We offered drinks from the very beginning; it was very hospitable and people used to pass by to say hello and have a coffee or play chess with us. If you wait all day for a customer, it turns you into a supermarket and our business wasn’t like that. Customers want new clothes, they want beautiful things, and they also want to be treated really well. They want people to make suggestions. So that was us learning about how proactive you have to be with the customer and how to keep a momentum within the relationship.
Can you pinpoint the defining moments in the development of your business?
RC: Initially, Matches was one small store with men’s and women’s fashion together. But it quickly became clear that it had its limitations on Saturdays when it was busy and there were men and women changing in the same area. So when the business started to grow and show that it was sustainable, we decided to open another store exclusively for men. And as we became good at this, we developed good partnerships with Max Mara and Diane von Fürstenberg, who both asked us to do stores for them. And as we had a family, and we needed more revenue to support that growing family, it was an organic expansion. So we opened new stores as our family grew. When did you become aware of the potential of digitalisation?
RC: We always had a very international typical customer, who was travelling into London and we already had these great relationships. So when the Internet started to take off about nine years ago and we could see businesses capitalising on it, we thought we would offer this service for our customers abroad. At this point, we didn’t think it was necessary to buy extra stock for this purpose. We just put everything we had on the Internet to serve the clients we knew. The minute that we developed a
“The best decisions we made throughout our lives have been based on naiveté.” Tom Chapman 416 style in progress
CEO Ulrich Jerome, who has been on board since 2015 and previously worked at Pixmania, drives the company’s self-funded expansion together with the founders
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platform and put stock online, everything sold out. We suddenly had this new audience and we realised we couldn’t operate this way. We had to buy substantially more inventory, mainly because the audience was growing and our business suddenly reached everywhere. It was an interesting cash flow exercise, because we had been independent since the beginning. So we had to think, within our own cash flow means, about how we could acquire as much inventory as we could to serve the customers. We didn’t ever want to have loyal customers feeling dissatisfied, finding they couldn’t buy a certain product on Matchesfashion.com. That would feel like we disappointed them. Four years ago, we realised that was the problem. We were disappointing people, because we didn’t have enough stock. We couldn’t continue to fund the business ourselves and we started looking for partners. And we were really lucky that we found two good investment firms which came on board as minority stakeholders to help fund our stock. At that point we really could start thinking strategically about how we would face the future and what this business could be and could look like. TC: You reach a point when you’re an independent retailer with an online business where you realise the hard work it involves. We decided to embrace that hard work and really wanted to drive the digital business when
“If we’re not failing, we’re not pushing the boundaries, and we can’t succeed.“ Tom Chapman we brought in partners. We really wanted to make the most of our journey from digital perspectives and capitalise on it. And Ruth was really pushing the business, also when we decided to put Matchesfashion.com above our stores. That may seem like a small gesture, but it marked a mentality change and everyone suddenly understood that we’re a digital business. You have experienced retail as a classic bricks-and-mortar retailer and now as an e-commerce platform. Which aspect of the digital transformation fascinates you the most?
TC: I feel very privileged to be at the forefront of what is a quite disruptive retail journey. There has been a changing face of retail over the last 30 years and the manner in which it has changed is quite extraordinary. This week, we had a sale of 40,000 Pounds coming from a mobile phone in the US. Ten years ago, would people have thought that possible? Ten years ago, people fought with the concept of buying luxury items online, let alone with the fact that you transact at such a level on a website or on the phone. This is a consumer who is highly engaged with products, highly responsive to us, and willing to return repeatedly. I’m a retailer at heart and I don’t like the distinction of e-commerce
- it is all retail at the end of the day. And one of the great things that I have experienced in terms of our stores is that you get to learn something about your customers when you’re talking to them. In the old days, you learned something about them too, but you only learned a little bit. In reality, you wouldn’t know what they were really interested in. You wouldn’t know what their journal of products is, how they connect with brands, and what they’re interested in. You couldn’t create that bond. You could create a relationship between them and you and it would go back to another point that you had. But could you create a relationship with the brand as well? And what’s interesting now from a digital perspective, is that we can understand how our customer engages with this platform. We know where they’re coming from, how they’re visiting, what brands they’re looking at, and what they’re interested in. We have learned so much from our bricks-and-mortar heritage and we ask ourselves how that formulates the decisions that we make digitally. The key question is: How do we learn from the consumer? There are quite a few digital luxury players out in the market who started with bricks-and-mortar heritage.
You are the only one who is still privately owned. What is it that distinguishes Matchesfashion.com in this competitive market?
TC: I think we’re unique in the way we have merged and reunited these different types of commerce. And right now, building relationships with brands through digital experience is phenomenal. If you build a relationship with Racil, a brand we have just launched, and you feel that you know it personally through an event, the media, or an interview, and if you found that relationship through us, then we’re creating loyalty - not just loyalty to that particular brand, but to us as well. And that’s really key to what we’re doing. RC: The really important thing in terms of our success has been having a real fashion focus and a really strong edit. We carry a lot of brands that you see on Net-aporter and Mytheresa, but when we do a crossover exercise, we have about 15% of a crossover at any particular time. That means that we are buying and editing differently. Our customer is an early adopter, somebody who moves on trends quickly. Our buying team is very quick to respond to those trends. They’re looking for new talent every day. In the case of Vetements, it was
The new office’s interior is characterised by Tom Chapman’s design language.
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024 THE LONGVIEW
particularly powerful. The week we launched with them we were the first to bring them online. They were the fastest selling brand on our site and - at the time - they were an unknown brand coming out of nowhere. So we feel like, as a team, we can build brands, we can see opportunities, and we can deliver this to the customer. It’s a constant dialogue, not only in terms of brands.
From a buying perspective, we’re looking at customers from a lifestyle point of view. We’re interested in how they live, how much they travel, how much they engage in technology, how often they go to the gym, and, within that context, what they are going to wear. So we try to pre-empt what we’re going to see in showrooms, because we think our customer perceives us as
“We want to be profitable and expand.” Ulric Jerome, CEO Matchesfashion
a brand which is going to serve them holistically. And if they go somewhere else, we feel like we failed. Ulric Jerome: Also, I don’t think the market is competitive. The personal luxury goods market is close to 270 billion Dollars. Online only accounts for 7-8% now and we know it’s going to be close to 15% in 2019. So the market is massive to tackle. And to tell you the truth, we don’t really care about competition. The only thing we care about is to serve our customers, to focus on our edit, to be very competent with our customer service, and to gain as much as we can of that market share. Our customers tell us that they’re looking to us for inspiration. We try to do our homework to forecast what the next trend will be. While we are very focused on what the customer is expecting, we spend more time on focusing on the service that the customer wants, how fast we need to be with our delivery, how ingenious we need to be with our visual merchandising, and our ability to personalise with recommendations and predictive searching tools. Still, there’s a lot of pressure, especially since the business has become investmentand expansion-driven. Most e-commerce companies mainly look at outreach nowadays and mark down constantly…
UJ: We have minority stakeholders, but we are mainly an auto-financed, profitable business. We invest most of our profits in the development of our business and we don’t need extra capital to grow our business. We aim to grow at a rate of 35-40% every year over the next 3-4 years. This is without raising additional funds. Right now, we are focusing on our execution, on everything that we do, and we don’t want to be disturbed in this process. We want to be profitable and expand. If something comes up which makes sense for the business, as entrepreneurs, we will be curious. But right now, it’s not on the agenda and I think we’re the only digital luxury retailer of that size with Independent looks and fashion-conscious combinations set Matchesfashion.com apart from its competitors.
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that kind of profitability and independence. TC: Outreach is incredibly important. But the reality is that we want to build a profitable business. I don’t want to build my life around a business where I’m running around in circles to bring investors on board. I have better things to do than having conversations with investors all the time. If you set me one challenge in this business, it’s that of execution. I want to build a profitable business that is based on great brand relationships. You don’t achieve that by marking down; you achieve it by implementing a sensible strategy in terms of how you embrace the customers, how you create loyalty, and how you create customer satisfaction. We’re still growing at a rate of 55% with this strategy. If we wanted a discount policy, we could grow at about 120%. But I don’t believe in a business built on promotional codes. You know what; if you can’t sell it at full price, don’t buy it. That’s the truth of this conversation. I really believe that I don’t want to buy a product that I constantly need to mark down. I don’t see that as a viable business model for the future. I don’t believe that one should look around to see whether “so and so has marked that down” – keep your head straight! Keep doing what you’re doing and focus on it. It may be harder, but that just reflects on what you do next year. And in our stores, we don’t mark down at all anymore.
How does the future of retail look?
TC: There are so many things that we have as touch points. We are a technology-based fashion business. One in four people working here is now in the technology department; it’s the biggest individual department in this company. We spent two years building an amazing platform that helps drive the technology aspect of this business. During that process, I got quite frustrated, because I felt that we weren’t leading the way and I believe that we should always be leaders and not followers.
“I think fashion still supports beautiful things.“ Ruth Chapman
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And now we have this fantastic platform that enables us to be agile and creative. So what are the next steps? We only launched an app four months ago. That’s crazy. That’s what’s interesting. What is the future of retail? Mobile usage is going to be so significant and important in what we do. But it’s not just that: it’s commerce, it’s physicality, it’s connection, and it’s social. And what is so exciting about it is the speed of change. It’s very easy to get overwhelmed by it, but I think that, if you embrace it and aren’t paralysed by it, it becomes a great opportunity. How do you avoid being left behind given this extreme speed?
TC: Looking at the past, I think that our naiveté was a wonderful thing. The best decisions we made throughout our lives have been based on naiveté. When we first opened an online store, we shipped everywhere in the world and accepted foreign currencies. Nobody did that. But that naiveté, that stupidity, and all the decisions that we made never paralysed us. And I think that the fundamental thing about the culture of this business is that we must be willing to fail and not let anything paralyse us – because if we’re not failing, we’re not pushing the boundaries, and we can’t succeed. The most important thing to us is that we’re democratic in what we do. We want to be involved, we want to understand what the future is, we want to understand what’s happening, and we want the customers who change. All of these things are about being inclusive and listening to your customers, and those things will define what we do in the future. We need to get retail right and we need to get the customer right. The most important thing that we’re really trying to learn now is how to be relevant to the customer without being too much of an algorithm. It’s a balance of magic and logic. How do you link the magic of Matchesfashion.com with the logic of an algorithm? How do you get and share information about your customers that
enables you to learn from their behaviour to help you serve them in a better way?
How does the pressure of the market to be faster come into play in your business? Do you think the acceleration is destroying the appetite for fashion?
TC: What is so exciting right now is the opportunity of change. Every brand will have a different model. As a retailer, we have to make sure that these logistics work and deliver it to what that brand’s journey is. The one thing I know from 30 years of experience is that we have 450 brands and no brand wants to be treated the same. So we have to be agile in the way we treat them. From a logistic point of view, if they want to do something, we need to embrace it. We need to work with that brand to make sure we represent them in the best way possible. RC: I don’t think the fashion market is going to be destroyed. I think a lot of times there’s been a lot of willingness; you just have to create a path through it and have a clear proposition of what you want to deliver to the customer. Our customer always wants to feel current and connected. Customers are still interested in something beautiful, something comfortable, and something that feels like a lot of thought has gone into it. So there will always be a market for the right people. We have a brand called Zeus + Dionne, and it has generated very good business since we launched it. When Mareva Grabowski founded the business with her partner, Greece was in a mess and she went and found all the artisans who literally had nothing. She helped revive all the silk, leather, and embroidery artisans. And the customer really responds to that. There’s something beautiful about that and I think fashion still supports it.
“You have to feel that somebody cares.”“ Tom Chapman
Matchesfashion.com Headquarters: The Shard, London Founded: 1987 Founders: Ruth and Tom Chapman CEO: Ulric Jerome (since 2015) Revenue: 130 million GBP (2015), 180 million GBP (est. 2016) Business: Online (85%, est. 2016), 11 stores in the UK, 1 private shopping house Average order value: 450 GBP Labels: 400+, in-house label Raey
Editorials that tell stories - the website is fully committed to its high fashion standards.
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026 WHAT'S THE STORY FAST SHIFTING
BREAK THE ENDLESS CIRCLE Everyone is shouting: “BBQs!!! Beach!!! Summer dresses!!!” But the fashion retailers answer: “Winter!!! No? Are you sure? Aw, that’s a shame!” An opinion piece by Stephan Huber Does this sound familiar? The news continues to roll in. One of the dominant current issues is the pension reform. You would be forgiven to think: “Oh for Pete’s sake, isn’t this news from 1997? The problem was defined decades ago! Isn’t the solution crystal clear by now? Can’t somebody just do what’s required?” That does sound familiar, right? I agree wholeheartedly! In August and September, the temperatures were high and the sun well and truly had its hat on. The sales of fashion retailers dropped significantly and the industry started vomiting - in the literal sense of the term. In the same way that people, who are getting older than ever before, are not to blame for the crumbling pension system, the summer weather of August is not to blame for bad sales figures in the fashion industry.
The Human Psyche So what’s wrong with trying on a thick winter jacket in 30 degrees Celsius with a dripping stracciatella ice cream in hand? If you think about the human psyche, it quickly becomes clear that just about everything is wrong about it. The entire nation cheers that the summer has decided to return for a little while. Everyone is shouting: “BBQs!!! Beach!!! Summer dresses!!!” But the fashion retailers answer: “Winter!!! No? Are you sure? Aw, that’s a shame! See you mid-November at the sales?”
Problems Don’t Resolve Themselves This is old news, to be fair. By now, it feels like an endless circle - or a tragicomedy in which I could easily handle all supporting speaking parts. In summary: “The retail industry demands such early deliveries! What am I supposed to do?” vs “Those are the delivery dates that the industry imposes on me. What am I supposed to do?” As always, nobody is willing to take the blame for something that is making us all suffer. How can we escape this situation? Should we wait for snow in August? We’ll be waiting for a quite a while. Let’s take an unemotional look at the status quo. 416 style in progress
Problems don’t solve themselves, especially if you ignore them and pass them on to others. A system-stabilising trend of people dying earlier is just as unlikely as an adaptation of consumption patterns to a seasonal rhythm. The latter simply isn’t suited to the life of - a conservatively estimated - 95% of consumers. By the way, we are talking about consumers who have proven that they are quite willing to spend money. However, there is one explicit exception: fashion and clothing!
Fundamental Reorientation Pure symptom control does not result in long-term or lasting healing. What is needed is a fundamental reorientation. The consumer NEEDS to be at the centre of it. It NEEDS to focus on the individual and his or her needs. This may sound like a platitude from a mediocre marketing seminar, but it is a point that one cannot emphasise often enough. Even although everyone always stresses that “it’s all about the people”, our reality is - consciously and/ or unconsciously - determined by the exact opposite. So let me say it one more time with fervour. The reason that fashion has lost so much of its relevance is that it has lost its connection to the people! If you prefer a less melodramatic explanation, one could argue that the fashion industry simply operates outside the realm of a vast majority of the consumers. THIS is the key factor in terms of declining customer frequency and sales figures. If the demand seems inadequate, it may be time to rethink the supply. The driving force of the reorientation process can only be the product, i.e. the product range. A future-oriented product range must be structured like an exciting, thought-provoking, and stimulating menu. It needs to include seasonal highlights, regional references, surprising elements, and timeless classics. In terms of the fashion industry, this means that the range needs to consist of products that can easily escape the completely anachronistic laws of constantly repeated seasonality - and the associated disgraceful devaluation logic.
SUPERFIT COTTON
www.alberto-pants.com
DIFFICULT TIMES?
WE PREFER THE TERM CHALLENGE! 416 style in progress
The changes experienced by the fashion market are evident, but difficult to grasp. Those who don’t react now, will lose out. But what measures need to be taken? style in progress caught up with some of the industry’s retailers and decision makers to find out more. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
PROVIDE A STAGE
Simone and Roy Komorr, owner of Roy, Sylt
“We meet the challenges of a changing market by focusing on a single store. For us and our longstanding team, this is the best way to maintain personal contact with our customers and build new ‘friendships’ that allow us to offer individual advice and adapt our buying strategy to customer needs. We pair this approach with the courage to offer an authentic and inspiring merchandise concept. This means that WE are the brand! We perceive our store as a stage - on the one hand in the form of ‘entertainment space’ and, on the other hand, because we believe the customer is the ‘star’. All our attention is focused on our customers and their personal style!
LONGEVITY
Alexander Manns, owner of Blum seit 1846, Deesen
“It’s not enough to merely know your customers; you need to know your customers very well. This means that we also visit our customers at home or at the office, if necessary outside our regular business hours. Our numerous services, such as shirt cleaning, ironing of suits, shoe repair, and tailoring, are well received. Another important factor is the quality of materials and the craftsmanship needed to process the fabrics. In this context, we place special emphasis on manufacturing sites in Germany and Europe. We need strong brands - not broadly diversified. The depth of a collection is more important to us than having a mass of labels in our stores. Expressiveness is key in this context.”
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COMMITMENT
Jörg Korfhage, country manager for Germany at Liu Jo
“Who bears which risk for sales on the floor? Who fulfils which roles? We are increasingly convinced that traditional distribution models are becoming outdated. This is why Liu Jo has developed co-operation models that require the commitment of the retail industry and vice versa. Many customers have told us that they need an option to revisit faster fashion themes during the season. However, one is told too often during the season that there is a lack of funds. This makes it even more important to co-ordinate and define such issues in advance. At the same time, we are waging war on compartmentalisation. One brand is known as a pre-order supplier, a different one stands for warehouse service, while another brand is seen as Pronto Moda. Liu Jo has to work towards also being perceived as a brand that offers excellent stock programmes and flash fashion by retail customers. Both the brand and the retailer need to optimise sales, which requires a lot of effort from both sides. This optimisation process is the biggest challenge.”
PERSONALITY
Dorothea Haselmann, owner Purpur. Mode & Design, Bamberg
“The success of a business has always stood or fallen with the personality and the physical presence of the owner.”
ECO FASHION AS BONUS Markus Leicher, owner of Dailys
“Many retailers are under pressure due to the fact that larger sales floor concepts, which require high minimums, no longer work as well as they used to. As a young Eco Fashion label, we believe that retailers being willing to accept more responsibility is an opportunity for us. We have a clear sense that the acceptance of environmentally correct fashion has increased considerably. Furthermore, we have the bonus that our label is stylish and offers good value for money. It would have been more difficult for us to gain a foothold in the market three years ago, but now we have earned our breakthrough and will have reached more than 300 retail customers in 2017. This shows that a crisis also always offers opportunities.”
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PERSONALITY IS THE KEY Barbara Ulmer, owner of Etoile, Constance
“Our individual challenge was that we had to move from a 1a to a 1f location in November due to a 500 percent (!) rent increase. We mastered this challenge in a surprisingly satisfactory manner, mainly because we focused heavily on maintaining personal contact with regular customers. We are known for not buying brand-oriented, but very individually. We focus on brands that are not available in the immediate vicinity and don’t have a massive footprint in terms of e-retailing. Although we are the among the largest Bruno Cuccinelli buyers, we offer our customers a very special selection of this well-known brand. Our very personal product range has allowed us to become this self-sufficient. Personality is the key word for me. The store is my living room, while my employees and customers form my private environment. Our success proves that customers who feel and appreciate this approach still exist.”
UNDERSTANDING THE CUSTOMER
Oliver Beuthien, managing director at Engelhorn
“In my opinion, there is no ‘single, most important measure’. I believe we need a set of measures that can only have an effect in combination. It’s all about advice, the product range, digitalisation, and - as I call it ‘eventisation’ to lure customers into the city and increase the amount of time they spend in our store. It’s not enough to simply hang up clothing in the shop. Furthermore, it’s no longer about saying: ‘Dear customer, come and buy!’ We need to communicate: ‘Come to us. We understand you.’ This means that we have to perfect our role as host and to charge our sales floors emotionally, not only with a product range that reacts to trends faster, which is why it is no longer enough to operate with just one pre-order per season. The gastronomy aspect is just as important, as it contributes to turning a shopping trip to Engelhorn into a real experience. There’s also no denying that digitalisation is necessary. We are working hard on linking online with offline. The combination of all these measures leads to long-term success.”
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GUT FEELING AND LONG-SELLERS Ralf Fischer, owner of Ralf Fine Garments, Munich
“Instead of relying on highly complex enterprise resource planning software, I trust my gut feeling when it comes to buying. Instead of chasing new models and cuts every season, I prefer to rely on proven long-sellers. I don’t do clearance sales. Instead I prefer to give regular customers a little bonus in the form of a hand-picked bottle of gin or a good bar of chocolate from time to time. That not only increased the well-being of the customers, but also avoids the value of the goods being questioned.”
REMAIN TRUE TO YOURSELF Stefan Dietzelt, owner of Eisdieler, Berlin
“Our store has always been a platform for our own fashion labels. In 1999, we started extending the range of merchandise. Even though fashion in general, the appearance of the store, and the number of shareholders have changed significantly since then, we have always remained true to our basic concept. There is no clearance sale at the end of the season. The single-unit productions from the past have transformed into sought-after low-volume productions. If possible, the brands we buy remain just as unique, rare, and sustainable. So far, this mix works in our location and we strive to optimise our niche via portfolio management and excellent customer relations.”
CONSTANT CHANGE
Antje Leinemann, managing director at Bikini Berlin
“Constant change has been the most important measure for Bikini Berlin ever since it opened two years ago. Concretely, that means that we always showcase new brands and products in our boxes on the ground floor. These boxes are pop-up areas that form an integral part of the concept shopping mall. Constant change also means that we review our product range continually. We optimise things that aren’t successful yet and expand things that are well-received by our customers.”
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Into the Niche
The trousers are by Levi’s and Carhartt, the jackets by Schott and Mackintosh, the suits by Brioni, the backpack by Eastpak, and the shoes by Manolo Blahnik and Dr. Martens. No, this is not an extravagantly stocked multi-label store, but the fashion show by the Parisian designer cult label Vetements that was staged at Galeries Lafayette in June. For head designer Demna Gvasalia one aspect was particularly pivotal. He chose exemplary specialists to represent each product group. Even the often overwhelming power of a luxury brand can be ineffective when pitched against true expertise. “The idea was to seek out the most typical product of every brand and then develop it in our context”, Gvasalia explains. Many were happy to participate in the experiment. What seems to be a working paradigm for a luxury brand is also echoed in the premium segment. Many retailers are fed up with brands with collections that lack profile, are interchangeable, and are - in many cases - bloated. In the case of such collections, it is difficult to determine what they stand
What are you really good at? Many in the retail trade and the fashion industry asked themselves this question last season. Being everybody’s darling certainly isn’t the solution. There are different strategies that lead to success, but it seems as if having a good product means the battle is already half won. Text: Ina Köhler. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler. Photos: Interviewees
for and what collection pieces one should order. During the current season, the aspect of “too much” has been discussed many times. Too many similar collections, too much merchandise, too many channels, and too many order options… It seems like specialisation and focusing could be ways out of this predicament. “Retailers are no longer interested in being bossed around”, says Lucky de Luca’s Valentino Luca. “Many conversations revolve around the topic of minimum orders. Why should a
retailer order more of a product every season if the product isn’t even good?” Also: “Who wants to walk around dressed from head-to-toe in the same brand. It simply isn’t up-to-date to have the same brand from sunglasses all the way down to the shoes.” So why shouldn’t brands and retailers do what they are really good at? Content with One Product Group
Many are already operating in this manner successfully and quite deliberately decide against broader collections. An example is the top specialist Better Rich: “We offer our customers cosy tops made of finest cotton or fine Italian yarns that are perfect for combining with other items”, says Carina Wyen, a marketing specialist at the label. “We have been doing this since 2009, which does not mean that everything remains the same. In terms of our collection, we focus consciously on the current zeitgeist and the fashion changes we can sense in the market.” In many cases, successful labels end up with a more extensive product range. Better Rich is different. “We are often asked about product extensions such as trousers or jackets. However, we strive to do what we do as best we can. We don’t do anything simply because it is in demand. This is exactly what our customers value, which provides security for all involved parties.” In this context, Better Rich is one example of many companies that stick to their trade. Parajumpers has specialised in jackets since its founding,
which means that one certainly doesn’t need to tell them how that particular market segment works. “Our main focus has always been on the technological and functional aspects of our products”, says Ermanno Paulon, the CEO at Ape & Partners, the company behind Parajumpers. “The quality of materials and finishing are the elements that allow us to place our items in the top level of the market. Our products are made to last many, many years. Our focus is on longevity in both style and production.” This creates confidence, but wouldn’t a wider selection be the next logical step? “We always want to guarantee a high level of quality, so we focus on products that we are sure we can make very well”, Paulon argues. “This is our strategy and it has allowed us to grow every year.” Specialised Items No Assorted Goods
It seems as if the industry has decided to return to old virtues. In this day and age, nothing is more fatal than trying to be “Everybody’s Darling” for all customers. Those who can do everything, are simply not really good at doing anything. For instance, when a food stand offers Chinese, Bavarian, and Turkish food, it most likely offers dishes that tend to taste the same. Nobody will like this taste - neither buyers, nor customers. “When there are too many dishes on a menu, then no dish can be really outstanding. We offer one or two dishes in the best quality possible”, Valentino de Luca states. He knows what he’s style in progress 416
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“Time is money. Buyers are no longer willing to look at 400 samples before choosing three products.” Matthias Schwarte, Agentur Schwarte
talking about after establishing Lucky de Luca and Barb’one, two highly successful specialities. “Right from the beginning, we decided to focus on a great product, high production standards, and excellent materials and finishing.” Many retailers and consumers appreciate this quality. Seeing that the shirts were so successful, it didn’t take long for Barb’one, a trouser label, to follow suit. “Our retailers supported us and trusted us to get it right. This allowed us to occupy a niche right from the start.” As a shirt label, Lucky de Luca merely offers four to five models for men and women in various qualities - a deliberate reduction strategy. The same applies to pre-orders. Once a product is sold out, there is no subsequent delivery. “We have chosen to tread a different path and would rather expand our business slowly and steadily. Every now and then, I am quite willing to accept an order consisting of a mere 30 items - that works. The industry needs to rethink”, de Luca argues. Clear Profile = Happy Customers
The realisation that large collections require too many material-related and human resources is spreading. If only a small part of a huge sample collection is ultimately selected and pro-
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“When customers leave the store happier than when they entered it, then we know we did everything right.” Max Schoenberg, Fifty-6 Saarbrücken
duced, the cost for the brands is too high. This situation isn’t beneficial for the buyers either. Matthias Schwarte has observed this phenomenon in his Munich-based fashion agency: “A buyer needs to understand a collection within three minutes. Time is money. Buyers are no longer willing to look at 400 samples before choosing three products. The brand is often not as important as one would think. It is fairly easy to persuade buyers if the product is good and self-explanatory - as is the case with People of Shibuya. The customers are looking for clearly focused products that add a little excitement to their respective product ranges. Our raison d’être as an agency is to supply such products.” In the retail industry, those who offer special items are also more successful. Max and Romy Schoenberg manage six Fifty-6 stores in Saarbrücken; they stock shoes and clothing. Every store has an individual concept targeted at very different customer groups. This requires a “buying marathon” that the owners take upon themselves. They see it as
an anticipated, voluntary tour of Europe’s showrooms: “During a buying period of eight weeks per season, we focus on ordering items that fulfil their promises in terms of fashion and quality. We have an enormous range of brands, but always with the goal of remaining highly fashionable and wearable”, Schoenberg explains. This requires hard work with great attention to detail for each item. This amount of effort simply couldn’t be justified for interchangeable products. Schoenberg believes that values such as service and uniqueness are paramount. “All 45 employees need the conviction to make our customers happy with the knowledge that they always have the right product within reach. When customers leave the store happier than when they entered it, then we know we did everything right.” How to Choose the Right Speciality
Panorama Europe has established itself as a specialised fashion agency with products by the likes of Schott NYC, Penfield, and Espadrij l’originale. Last year, it even opened its own store named Selekteur in Düsseldorf’s historical city centre. It doesn’t merely stock clothing, but also other high-value products by European manufacturers. The offering
ranges from penknives to soap. “As a retailer, one can focus on the customers better if one is a specialist in terms of a particular topic”, managing director Felix Staeudinger claims. “Seeing that one can, in principle, order everything online, a stationary store needs to make a statement and offer top products manufactured by specialists. The store has to embody something and have its own signature, so to speak. Generally speaking, this also applies to our Selekteur store in Düsseldorf. We showcase items by manufacturers who have developed into brands due to the quality of their respective products. For us, it is a great place to gather experience with products in direct contact with consumers. This is an enormous help for our wholesale business. As a retailer or an agency, one needs to think about how to differentiate. One needs to feel the character of a store.” How does one establish a special product in the retail industry? Staeudinger points out that - in the case of Schott NYC his agency entered the retail
“We focus on products that we are sure we can make very well.” Ermanno Paulon, Parajumpers “Who wants to walk around dressed from head-to-toe in the same brand. It simply isn’t up-to-date to have the same brand from sunglasses all the way down to the shoes.” Valentino de Luca, Lucky de Luca
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segment via the brand’s core product, namely the bomber jacket. “The brand is already very strong in France, which is why other products work there too.” The advantage is that, as a specialist, one can still sell items when they are no longer offered by other fashion-oriented suppliers. This applies equally to products such as Espadrij l’originale. “We don’t want to offer a ‘total look’, but a lifestyle concept. This can be, for instance, a group of products centred on the Côte d’Azur topic. This allows the customers to dive into a new world, thus forgetting their everyday lives for a few seconds.” Control of Production
Many excellent specialists are characterised by their control of production. “We have always focused on our core business of cashmere knitwear and SeaCell cashmere”, says Andreas Knezovic. FTC, his business, earned its reputation through its own production department, which is unique in the market. The company is fully integrated in terms of cashmere products, which means that it controls all production steps - including goats and farmers, spinning plants, and finishing facilities. “Our approach can be compared to a wine. If you want a good wine, the winery must take care of everything in-house - from the ground to the vines and, finally, the winepresses. That’s
“As a full-range supplier, we need to be at least just as good as specialised suppliers within the individual product groups.” Thorsten Stiebing, Joop
how you create a great product. We take responsibility for everything, even for the staff on the ground.” The own production facilities allow him to deliver swiftly and accurately, as well as to meet very individual customer requests. “If a partner needs a special product for consumers, then we can deliver. We’re always in dialogue with our partners in terms of speed, service, and quality. This is the recipe for long-term success. For example, we only recently supplied Joyce of Hong Kong for the first time.” The collection was reduced from 120 to 80 items a year ago, which allows the brand to operate more efficiently and saves costs. In his capacity as owner, Knezovic is more interested in a respectful and appreciative management of his resources than a massive increase in numbers. “Cashmere simply cannot be a mass product. We offer affordable luxury. We see great future potential in that.” Comfortably Expanding the Niche
Niche markets may be highly competitive, but they have many advantages too. One knows the product by heart and sees things that others may overlook.
“The plan is, most importantly, to learn what the consumers expect from us as a trouser specialist.” Marco Lanowy, Alberto
“As a retailer, one can focus on the customers better if one is a specialist in terms of a particular topic.” Felix Staeudinger, Panorama Europe/ Selekteur
“We will focus on the topic of trousers until we run out of fresh ideas”, Marco Lanowy, the managing director of Alberto, says in jest. The trouser specialist anticipated the long-term trend of slimmer fits very early. This is why they added a low percentage of spandex to the men’s jeans, which currently make up 65 percent of the product range. This makes the trousers feel more comfortable without making them look like “stretch trousers”. Over the years, the company has developed into the market leader for trousers in the golf segment. “The reason for this is that we look at the product and its application in everyday life very closely and pay attention to every detail.” The newest development is a pair of bike jeans with a slightly higher cut and reflectors. In October, Alberto will open a concept store in Mönchengladbach to establish direct contact with consumers in order to learn more about their needs. “The plan is to test products and, most importantly, to learn what the consumers expect from us as a trouser specialist.”
“We’re always in dialogue with our partners in terms of speed, service, and quality. This is the recipe for long-term success.” Andreas Knezovic, FTC
paid more attention to detail, especially in the product groups involving coats, jackets, and suits. As a full-range supplier, we need to be at least just as good as specialised suppliers within the individual product groups.” This requires a more focused collection, not a larger one. “We looked at every item of all product groups a year ago”, Stiebing reveals. “We’d rather offer ten top jackets than 15 generic jackets. The art of omission is important, because it creates quality. As a brand, we strive to fulfil our brand promise and that’s why we focus on quality. If you are a brand, you can only be successful with a good product.” Stiebing believes that Joop has dealt well with this challenge. “We have received compliments for the new collection; it seems that our customers found it very easy to find suitable products.”
One-Stop Suppliers vs Specialists
The question of focusing is most exciting when applied to full-range suppliers such as Joop, whose collection has visibly evolved in the current season. Thorsten Stiebing, the managing brand director at Joop, has a clear answer: “We invested more time in the product and style in progress 416
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Man-cipation The menswear market is on the move. The reasons why men are developing into the industry’s favourite customers are manifold and include an improved range of choice, more courage in terms of fashion, and a newly-found confidence. style in progress looks at the current joys of operating in the menswear segment. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
“Men are the new girls that’s clear”, Matthias Schwarte summarises. “In the menswear market, we are currently experiencing what happened in the womenswear market maybe ten to fifteen years ago. We have interested customers who are open to trying new things when advised accordingly and willing to give a new look or brand a chance.” Of course, this does not mean that they are willing to clown around. “They are interested in stories with an immediately visible added value, as well as items that explain themselves quickly and leave no questions unanswered”, the fashion agency owner adds. People of Shibuya is a prime example. The label offers functional - yet sophistically designed - jackets that, alongside many technical features, work predominantly in accordance with the tried and tested 2-in-1 principle. “These features can lead to the entire Masculin Modekreis ordering in the very first season. Buyers are similar to the customers they strive to serve. They are also on the lookout for products that are uncomplicated and innovative”, Matthias Schwarte explains. Naturally, the retail industry is a little more restrained in its jubilation. Even the menswear stores have been affected by the negative results of the first few months of autumn. Nevertheless, Clemens Sagmeister, the head of Sagmeister Der Mann
in Bregenz, is content with the position he finds himself in. “The menswear segment is definitely more crisis-resistant; we don’t feel the highs and lows as strongly as other segments. For example, a business customer, who needs to buy ten shirts and two suits per year, will not stay at home just because the consumer climate is currently clouded. Once such a customer is in the store, one can seduce him by making new materials more appealing or highlighting new fashion topics such as wearing sneakers with a suit.” Seduction is the measure of all things. Even customers who buy out of requirement are no longer content with clothing presented in rank and file. That concept is beyond outdated. Our main tools are to remain surprising and - in some cases - persistent. A customer may reject a look three times before agreeing to give it a chance the fourth time. This art of persuasion is, after all, our core competence.” Rooster or Egg?
“In terms of fashion, men have certainly caught up. There is a clear progression”, says Lars Braun, the owner of Braun Hamburg and the operator of an eponymous online shop. But what triggered this development? What came first: an improved fashion range or the demand for it? What came first: the chicken or the egg? “I style in progress 416
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believe strongly that the chicken came first. There is no supply without demand. The demand for a casual, non-conformist look has been palpable for some time. The uniformity is being broken up and that is good for the menswear market. The dividing line between work and leisure is not as defined as it used to be. We have noticed that many fashion topics are being presented in a more open and casual manner. This automatically creates a fresh image and makes customers more willing to be seduced.” The fact that men allow themselves to be seduced by new clothing styles is a relatively recent phenomenon. “Men have become vainer, more hedonistic, and more enlightened in style matters. It is, for instance, quite impressive how well-informed our customers are about what happens in the design houses. They know when the designer has been replaced, for example. In the past, nobody
“The menswear segment is definitely more crisis-resistant.” Clemens Sagmeister, Sagmeister Der Mann Bregenz
the purchase on a more rational basis. We need to provide the right arguments.” Egg Hunt
Every season at the epicentre of men’s fashion… Some race through the Pitti Uomo like they have been stung by a tarantula to ensure that they don’t miss any of the more exciting labels. “Others simply visit their regular suppliers and spend half an hour talking to them. Then they complain that they didn’t see anything new”, says Heritage Agents’ Michael Brockmann in a deliberately exaggerated tone. “But let’s be honest. Those who return from the Pitti Uomo claiming that they didn’t see anything new either didn’t look
“This interest in fashion doesn’t come from nowhere. It is promoted by a change to the way we live.” Rob Kriescher, Dreist Aachen
outside the industry would have noticed such a change.” Rob Kriescher, the owner of the menswear store Dreist in Aachen, adds: “This interest in fashion doesn’t come from nowhere. It is promoted by a change to the way we live. A visit to a barber or grooming in general, beautiful accessories or shoes and their appropriate care - an entire cosmos has developed in recent years. It allows men to indulge in the finer things of life. The most important thing is that there is a good background story. As a shop assistant, one must not tire of telling this story over and over again. After all, this story will be passed on when the customer talks about his recent purchases with his friends over a beer. A man doesn’t highlight the beauty of a product he recently acquired. He wants to be able to justify 416 style in progress
properly or spent their entire time standing in the Colle Bereto. When we stroll through the trade show, we can’t stop raving about all the cool stuff we get to see. That is our version of the Champions League. One needs to be awake, switched on, and active. One needs to be open for new things and willing to give them a chance. I am always amazed when I hear retailers saying that trade shows are unnecessary. Where else would you find the innovations for your store? Of course, maybe you don’t need to add a new supplier every season. But when you no longer enjoy discovering, then you will definitely not be able to do your customers justice.” This applies especially to customers of today, who know exactly what the retailers wish to withhold. An event such as the Pitti Uomo is formative for a
whole season in terms of media recognition and - most importantly - visual perception. The key term is “street styles from Florence”. Today, these street styles play a significant role in established media channels, as well as on blogs and Instagram. “It is always difficult to generalise in this respect, but the consumers are, in my perception, much more enlightened than they used to be”, Lars Braun argues. “No matter whether you look at fashion shows online, read magazines on the web, or peruse Instagram and the likes, these image worlds have become more important and inspire many men to try fashion styles that they simply wouldn’t have known about in the past.” The stylish gentleman, who posts his outfits on a daily basis, is a new quantity due to the emergence of Instagram. In a recent interview with style in progress, Nick Wooster said: “I believe that street styles and blogs have allowed men to be interested in fashion and talk about it.” Lars Braun: “In fact, there are role models with whom men can identify. Unlike with women, these role models are more real and natural. They don’t necessarily have to be living icons. After all, the likes of Steve McQueen are still personalities that men enjoy looking up to.” What Does the Hen Say?
“At Stereo/Muc, our customers expect the full-service treatment. They want to know everything about the product and are particularly interested in how and where it is manufactured and what materials it is made of. The brand itself plays a subordinate role in this respect.
“The uniformity is being broken up and that is good for the menswear market.” Lars Braun, Braun Hamburg
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“At Stereo/Muc, our customers expect the full-service treatment.” Florian Ranft, Stereo/Muc, Komet und Helden
In addition, most men want to buy a complete look from us. In this context, the outfit as a whole is more important than individual items. Thus, we strive to showcase as many outfits as possible in our store in order to inspire our customers anew upon every visit”, says Florian Ranft, the owner of Stereo/Muc, several Woolrich stores, and the fashion agency Komet und Helden. “Most men go shopping alone and place all their trust in their favourite sales assistant. In parts, the latter shoulders the role of the women who used to regularly advise their partners in terms of fashion choices.” Every successful consultation results in yet another loyal customer. This rather naive assumption remains valid in times of online competition and vertically integrated conglomerates. “Women are like butterflies flying from flower to flower in the hunt for the best product available. Men are much more decisive”, Michaela Schirlbauer says while describing her personal experience. Even Clemens Sagmeister, who offers the majority of his product range online via Farfetch, confirms the statement that men are more loyal. “It is quite logical, really. The more high-end a product that a man buys is, the more it is necessary for a tailor to adapt the product to his individual needs. No man would burden himself with buying a suit online and then taking it to a tailor himself. This means he has to visit a specialised retailer whom he fully trusts.” The sewing machines have never hummed more than today. “Our in-house tailoring department is making more changes than ever. The awareness has increased yet again. When a man buys something, he wants everything to fit perfectly. In addition, we have added customised clothing to our service range, which was originally intended for important occasions such as weddings. 416 style in progress
Now we can see that many men don’t need a special occasion and enjoy fashion as it is. I like to compare this process with the configuration of a car. Men enjoy choosing the leather and the colour of the interior. And we are more than happy to assist them.” Laying Battery? Free Range!
Indeed, one could gain the impression that expansion is on the horizon. The KaDeWe has decided to rid itself from the shackles of concession areas by appointing new procurement managers, the ready-to-wear specialist Lanieri has opened its own flagship store in Munich, Apropos The Concept Store has launched a menswear store in Hamburg, Marco Burresi has dedicated a store in Frankfurt to men’s fashion, and retailers in many smaller and medium-sized cities are finally courageous enough to look at the untapped potential of fashion-conscious men. In addition, names that were previously only seen as womenswear specialists are pushing into the men’s market. For example, myclassico. com Men is entering its third season. In July, it even opened a stationary store in Hamburg’s “Grosse Bleichen”. “We are the antithesis of the haberdasher, mainly because the modern man is now more fashion-oriented and self-confident in terms of purchasing decisions. I believe that this shows a radical change in the market”, says Lennart Heldmann, the myclassico. com manager responsible for the menswear project. It is quite clear that this is not a significant upturn or even a boom, but rather a shift of revenue that is
most likely completely negligible in statistical terms. “All the brands that have their own retail operations and secured areas at large retailers - they all look the same. Boredom is inevitable”, Matthias Schwarte argues. Harm Hesterberg, who was at Stiesing in Bremen before recently opening his own store named Sailor & Harbour in Bremerhaven, puts it this way: “The oversupply of fashion even in the high-end segment permeates through all channels: stationary, in outlets, and online. This has inevitably led to fatigue and ignorance in many men. The key term is ‘rarer than rare’. Those who can cover that particular topic, mix unexpected small brands, skilfully present unknown manufactory labels, and promote things that are not available online, will generate
That’s a fallacy! When a man realises that there is no way to negotiate a price, he focuses on the essential: the substance. Lo and behold, suddenly he is willing to pay quite a different price, because the product is either ‘rare’ or he believes it is worth it on a personal level. Oversupply has never spawned dreams!”
“When we stroll through Pitti Uomo, we can’t stop raving about all the cool stuff we get to see.” Michael Brockmann, Heritage Agents
more attention. Especially if they pair all the aforementioned with a different quality of stay, consultants who actually have something to say, and - possibly - have even mastered the art of making an excellent cappuccino. Those retailers have a real chance of breaking free from the predominant phlegm.” Hesterberg’s principle is a mixture of inspiration and keeping things tight: “Every man loves to play. This playfulness and desire to hunt for things that not everyone can own needs to be satisfied.” After all: “Fashion has nothing to do with freezing or sweating! Desire comes from wanting to own something, not from having something thrown at you. Today, the reaction to a demand is to offer the best price.
“Desire comes from wanting to own something, not from having something thrown at you.” Harm Hesterberg, Sailor & Harbour Bremerhaven
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“Everyone is Optimising External Perception” Henning Korb is jointly responsible for the buying strategy of Apropos The Concept Store. As the managing director of the recently opened menswear store in Hamburg, his focus is on men. He sat down with style in progress to talk about his personal experiences in the luxury segment. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Apropos The Concept Store
The chicken or the egg - which came first? Did an increasing interest of men in fashion come first, or a fashion range that inspired men to care more about clothing?
Apropos The Concept Store started with a men’s department more than 30 years ago. Even back then there was exciting fashion for men on the market. For example, we stocked the debut menswear collection by the likes of Prada and Jil Sander. They performed very well too. Today, there is a real flood of information and impressions. In a globalised world with social media channels, the individual image is becoming increasingly important. Everyone is optimising their external perception as best they can. A renewed body consciousness goes hand in hand with an increased interest in fashion and lifestyle topics.
Unlike women’s fashion, which starts from zero every season, one can see an evolutionary process in menswear collections. Many items presented in the following season are a logical progression of current trends and bestsellers. Does this make the buying process easier in general or easier to structure?
One cannot say that designer collections for men are always based on an individually created look. During a recent interview, Demna Gvasalia said that he believes it is very important that his menswear collection for Balenciaga is just as creative as the womenswear collection, meaning that it shouldn’t merely be a logical progression from last winter. Or just look at Alessandro Michele and his work for Gucci? I don’t think that the new designers will allow others to limit them in this regard. We feel the same in terms of our buying process. Our customers are looking for highlights and nobody buys the same highlight twice. That’s why renewal is so essential in the luxury segment. Male role models are - supposedly more accessible. Nevertheless, they attach great importance to clothing. They are, however, never dressed up or foppish. How important are these positive examples?
As I said before, social media channels like Instagram are a real force. Even in the menswear segment, we have noticed that customers are willing to let themselves be guided or inspired. Unlike in the women’s fashion segment, the men’s market is dominated by the likes of athletes or DJs. There are less influencers who attained fame by merely curating an Instagram account.
Grooming, perfumes, creams, and barbers - the fact that men can dedicate time to their personal care has finally arrived in the mainstream. Who do you see as the pioneer of this trend? Who made it socially acceptable?
The increased body awareness over recent years, as well as the interest in healthy eating, sports, and care products, was certainly caused by the ever-present male beauty ideal. David Beckham definitely had a major impact in this respect. What was considered metro sexual early 2000 is now normal. He took away the men’s fear of vanity. Does your male target group buy more outfit-oriented than women?
Men usually buy more than one item. However, their focus is quite clearly on strong individual items that can be integrated into their existing wardrobe. They spend less time thinking in outfits.
Do men appreciate advice in a different way?
That is absolutely the case! Men are much more loyal than female customers. Once they are satisfied with the advice they received, they are strongly attached to the person who gave the advice. Many of our male customers call in advance to make appointments and to ensure that their favourite sales assistant is present at the time.
“Nobody buys the same highlight twice”, says Henning Korb while explaining the importance of rejuvenating the menswear segment.
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If You Don’t Buy, You Can’t Sell It’s on! During the last order round, retailers yet again reduced their respective pre-order volumes quite drastically. Among other effects, this move puts long-term partnerships to the test. Where were the dwindling limits most noticeable and what have retailers focused on instead? Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler. Photos: Interviewees
Andreas Weitkamp has made a clear cut. “For spring/ summer 2017, we have only ordered products that we were 100 percent convinced of”, the managing director of Modehaus Schnitzler explains. “In turn, this means that we have cut back radically on what we didn’t like and spent more on what we liked. That’s what our customer have taught us. They only buy the most beautiful items.” The spring/summer order is a prime example of what has been lurking on the horizon for quite some time. “We are currently at a crossroad”, says Peter Haertel, whose agency Vestitus specialises in luxury brands such as Jacob Cohën, Herno, Santoni, and Antonelli. “The retailers are even turning their backs on products that they remained loyal to for a long time despite the sales figures not really adding up.” The pressure has increased while the volumes have decreased. The order volumes have dropped between ten and 15 percent - in some cases even 30 percent. This has thrown some suppliers into turmoil. Will this trigger a market shakeout? The shakeout is already in full swing. There is simply too much of everything and there are definitely too many interchangeable prod-
ucts. As a result, Einwaller has aligned its buying strategy accordingly, thus turning their back on many large collections. “We found it very difficult to end long-term partnerships, but recent developments have shown that both the industry and retailers are sometimes too far removed from the consumers”, says Theresa Minatti-Einwaller, the head of buying at the family-owned business. “Customers of today only buy products that are right for them. Luckily, there are still brands that generate excellent sales. We ordered more from those brands. It also doesn’t make sense for us to look at many small labels. If we order for 5,000 Euros one time and for a different sum another time, it doesn’t result in a clear statement in our store and doesn’t save our sales figures either. In our capacity as a specialised retailer, we would rather forego a huge selection in favour of offering our customers the orientation they often lack.” Focus
Time is putting long-term sales partnerships to the test. Large orders can guarantee excellent collaboration and responsiveness, thus securing that business runs smoothly. Nevertheless, style in progress 416
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Theresa Minatti-Einwaller, head of buying at Einwaller: “You need to consider the numbers, but you need a lot more emotion and willingness to take risks to ensure you don’t look like all the others.”
Andreas Weitkamp, managing director at Modehaus Schnitzler: “Everything that’s interchangeable loses - without mercy.”
Oliver Feske, managing director at Agentur P4: “Brands that are over-distributed or whose collections are not contemporary are destined to lose out.”
Andreas Weitkamp was willing to - in some cases - waive beneficial terms. That doesn’t mean that he is not seeking partnerships. “When I look at our last order round, we ordered healthy volumes from those who showed personal commitment”, he notes. “Too many sales representatives focus on Excel sheets, while too few are willing to visit a store on a Saturday to see how the business is going. The latter is a good source for highly relevant information.” Peter Haertel is among those who wasn’t particularly affected by the pre-order reductions. “There is no brand loyalty, only service loyalty”, he argues. His stated principle is to be approachable at all times and to exchange goods that don’t perform as swiftly as possible. “However, one also need to be able to re-deliver goods that perform well just as swiftly. That’s why we see speed as our competitive advantage”, Haertel explains. “That’s why we, as an agency, lay aside the bestsellers from individual collections in order to ensure that retailers can re-order from us quickly. We take a risk with a high budget in this respect, but it has always been worth it so far.” Peter-Boy Weber requires absolute reliability for Mode416 style in progress
haus Ehlers in Wyk on Föhr. “I need the winter sweater early, mainly because it’s too late on our island once the customers have already seen a particular item in Hamburg or Munich”, he provides an example. “For me, it is a clear image enhancement when I receive the latest goods early. If the goods for winter arrive as late as mid-September, it could be too late. In such cases, we require a special deal with the suppliers.” Last season, his store decided to focus on the premium segment once again. This approach does not protect him from price sensitivity, which has - according to all market players - increased enormously. “More than ever, there is a psychological price threshold that should never be exceeded”, Peter Haertel explains. “I need to offer quality, but at the right price. Our customers are prepared to spend a lot of money as long as they know what they’re spending it on.” The heyday of the outerwear market, during which consumers were willing to fork out a lot of money for brand jackets without hesitation, is long gone. However, the crisis is an opportunity for collections such as Save the Duck of Italy. Such brands boast a fresh name, awareness for sustainability, and
- last but not least - an excellent price-performance ratio with a high calculation factor. “The orders placed by our existing customers have increased by 20 percent year-on-year. Our last season closed with an export ratio of 40 percent”, says Daniela Holnsteiner, the international distribution manager at Save the Duck. “There is no European market in which our product doesn’t work. We are developing on a global level. It is also positive that we are not being plugged into a certain category.” To ensure that the label continues to grow healthily, it is necessary to expand the distribution network in a selective and sensitive manner. “Especially in a saturated market, it is important not to abandon your own positioning”, Daniela Holnsteiner explains. “Such an approach improves the credibility of the brand.” Peter-Boy Weber is also convinced that a lot depends on the distribution strategy. “Within our product range, we strengthened brands that don’t try to push into the market with force, but maintain their individuality in order to remain interesting for premium retailers. This ensures that there are no problems in terms of sales figures.”
Innovation Necessary
Innovation is also essential to be perceived as “special” - this applies to both the industry and retailers. Does this mean that stores still need to stock new goods as often as the vertically integrated rivals? Does this mean that the budgets of retailers will shift to shortterm trends or towards NoS? Oliver Feske’s agency P4 has the Danish label Minimum in its portfolio. “The collection boasts an excellent stock programme of which retailers can benefit greatly. Many retailers say it is important to have an option to re-order bestsellers during the season.” To this end, Minimum offers four order dates per year. Oliver Feske is not the only one who perceives this as a good rhythm. Save the Duck has also decided to increase its order rhythm. The declared aim is to have six to eight order dates consisting of four pre-main collections and two to four flash collections. The collections will also be made available via a virtual showroom. “The important thing, however, is that every collection needs to specialise in a theme that the retail industry is craving for at that time, such as a fake leather programme in October”, Holnsteiner says. “Seeing that the collections dif-
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Peter-Boy Weber, managing director at Modenhaus Ehlers: “I need to be able to rely on agreements and I need the willingness to consider special terms.”
Daniela Holnsteiner, export manager at Save the Duck: “As a label, we need a certain pre-order volume. Then I can, accordingly, offer more service.”
Peter Haertel, managing director at Agentur Vestitus: “Today, brands that aren’t maintained properly have no chance.”
fer from each other greatly, there is no product pressure.” Andreas Weitkamp has put aside 15 percent of the current season’s budget to spend on items that inspire him spontaneously. “However, I don’t believe that I will receive any more strong flash goods from the stronger brands this season. I also don’t believe that we need to move towards more ready-to-wear items. If I receive my winter goods as late as November, what am I, for example, supposed to sell in the last three weeks of August? The temperature reached 16 degrees on a certain Monday, which was a great day for selling outerwear. On the next Friday, the temperature soared to 32 degrees. Was I supposed to hide all the winter jackets and bring out the swimwear again?” At Modehaus Schnitzler, collections such as Dorothee Schumacher, Armani, and Stone Island are among the strongest complete look brands. “However, we have noticed a shift from global brands to niche labels”, Weitkamp reveals. Is the product itself becoming more important? Does this mean that product specialists are becoming more important? “Absolutely”, Weitkamp answers the question. “I believe that this development has been, in part, caused by sociological factors. Today, 416 style in progress
people expect so much more quality for their money, which is also strongly reflected in the gastronomy industry. They are no longer willing to spend cash on second and third rate products.” Peter-Boy Weber is also convinced that quality is more important than quantity. Late September, he ordered some more cruise collections in Milan. This is currently the main part of his order volume, especially as he is very happy with the delivery punctuality of the Italians. Instead of focusing on larger collections, he prefers to order lesser-known names and niche labels. “As a multi-brand retailer, we need such products to strengthen our own brand and to sharpen our profile.” At Einwaller, on the other hand, large names such as Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, and - most of all - Gucci have lost none of their pulling power. The large design houses not only stand for innovation, but are also Einwaller’s figureheads. The latter is not only owed to the location of the Einwaller stores, which are grouped on the way to “Goldenes Dachl”, the main tourist attraction of Innsbruck. “For example, this ensures that many Asian customers visit our stores and adds to our local regular customers”, Theresa
Minatti-Einwaller explains. “Today - more than ever - you need to know who your customers are and what exactly they want.” Like many other successful retailers, Theresa Minatti-Einwaller not merely reduced her order volume, but decided to focus it. “In my opinion, it makes no sense to simply shave off your respective order volumes as if you’re hacking away at them with a lawnmower. Within our business, we prefer to follow the guiding principle of my father, Josef Einwaller. He once said that those who don’t buy goods can’t sell anything.” What does she think is more important? Should buying decisions be dictated by the gut or the brain? “One does need to look at the numbers, but one needs to forget them again as quickly as possible”, Theresa Minatti-Einwaller argues. “You need a lot more emotion to ensure that your product range doesn’t look like all the others. We stand for colour, but that can cause issues in terms of distribution. Subsequently, it comes as no surprise when the customers refuse to buy the umpteenth jacket in beige or dark blue! As stationary retailers, we have a myriad of opportunities ahead of us and they all begin with the buying process.”
Who Surprises, Wins
But this is not the only area that offers untapped potential. “The customers want to consume, but stores often lack a certain level of excitement”, Oliver Feske says. “We started perceiving ourselves as a lifestyle agency some time ago. To this end, we decided to equip our new showroom with a 100 square metre concept store area that showcases books, electronics, liquor, scented candles, soaps, and furniture. We have received excellent feedback for that.” It’s all about special items and unexpected thrills. Andreas Weitkamp believes that this is an opportunity for multi-brand retailers. “You have to take risks to ensure that your business remains exciting - even more so in uncertain times”, he stresses. “Customers need to be surprised. If they aren’t, they might as well stay on the couch and click their way through all the online shops. The element of surprise is paramount. The biggest mistake one can make is to always play it safe.”
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“Fashion Isn’t Our Business Anymore!” Does it make sense to pre-order less? Franco Savastano believes that one should simply order more of the right products. In our interview, the managing director of Jelmoli Zurich explains what he means by this and how his tradition-steeped business is adapting to current market dynamics. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Jelmoli
The retail industry announced plans to reduce its pre-order volume for the spring/summer season 2017 significantly. Did Jelmoli follow suit?
We ordered almost ten percent less, which is not exactly a huge reduction. Naturally, we could have also cut pre-orders by 30 percent, but that wouldn’t have solved any problems. Simply ordering less for the sake of it bears the risk of not ordering the right products. This could lead to an inadequate store appearance. What exactly does that mean?
Generally speaking, the industry doesn’t maintain large stocks. In addition, many suppliers don’t order materials until the orders have been received. They’ll only start the manufacturing process after that. This means that retailers need to make their minds up six to nine months in advance. Thus, the retailers still bear most of the risk. However, those who pre-order less risk not having enough innovations in their respective stores - or not the right ones. What is your approach?
We strive to establish partnerships with excellent brands. In practice, this means that we offer a brand an appropriate forum at Jelmoli with a healthy pre-order volume. This allows for partnerships that present diverse opportunities such as joint events, training, and goods exchanges. Instead of ordering a little bit here and a little bit there, we retailers need to commit to brands more. That improves the flow of goods. So you suggest fewer brands, but don’t recommend ordering less?
The big issue here is not the goods. When we speak of fashion today, we think about Gucci and Prada. The latter are, in turn, copied perfectly
by vertically integrated players such as Zara. This means that today’s fashion is made by Gucci or Zara. Everything in between those two has nothing to do with fashion anymore, but with styles. At Jelmoli, we work a lot with styles. We focus on icons such as the parka by Woolrich or Canada Goose. We work with brands such as Diane von Furstenberg, which embodies “the dress”. We offer Incotex trousers and knitwear by FTC. When we speak about fashion in the sense of fast-moving products, then that quite simply isn’t our business anymore. We have to accept that. That’s why brands that lack a strong identity are now struggling.
An increasing number of retailers also lack identity.
Therein lies the crux of the matter. One must stand for something in this day and age. Imagine walking into to your favourite restaurant and being told by the waiter that you can now also order fondue and sushi. How credible does that sound to you?
What is more important: collections or partnerships?
I would say both. The greatest collection is completely useless without a good distribution concept - and vice versa. We have very good partners with whom we sit down for in-depth talks. We exchange when necessary and we discuss what is put up for sale online. This is a highly concentrated and painstaking work process. Instead of reducing pre-order volumes, we should work together more closely and learn from each other.
“One must stand for something in this day and age”, says Franco Savastano, CEO at Jelmoli Zurich.
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Everyone Heading Home? The repatriation of industrial production to Europe has been debated for years. Will the combination of modified consumer behaviour, economic dynamics, and “Industry 4.0” really trigger a widespread return to Europe? Text: Quynh Tran. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@ Caroline Seidler
The food industry has always been good at anticipating trends. The terms “organic” and “fair trade” were associated with eating first. This trend is still a niche with a 4.4% market share, but revenue with such food products did grow from 2.1 to 8.6 billion Euros between 2000 and 2015 - and it is still gaining ground. It is not yet possible to define to what extent this development is reflected in the fashion industry from a statistical point of view. Numerous horror stories about cheap production facilities in the Far East have, however, triggered a rethinking process that has been confirmed by both companies and consumers. Similarly, regional produce is enjoying an
increase in popularity. Almost every major German supermarket not only houses shelves with organic food, but has also added signs that advertise the regionality of the produce. A study titled “Food: Regional is in More Demand than Bio”, which was conducted by the consulting firm A.T. Kearney in 2015, even comes to the conclusion that locally produced food is rated higher than organically grown food. According to the study, this development is a result of the sustainability trend, especially as regional produce is often perceived as sustainable. Other factors are the customers’ identification with the region and the more transparent labelling of local food. How and Where
If one also considers this trend to be a harbinger for the developments in other sectors, one would have to assume that the demand for consumer goods produced domestically or in Europe - instead of in the Far East - could experience a similar boom. This was palpable during the last Pitti Uomo; almost all exhibitors promoted their “Made in Italy” credentials. The situation wasn’t much different in Berlin two weeks later. Especially brands in the mid-price and upper price segments were eager to differentiate themselves from vertically integrated discounters with “Made in Europe” slogans. “Where our products are manufactured is very important to our customers. Naturally, the first question one is asked at trade shows is about the price. The second question, however, is where the product comes from”, says Andrea Curti, the
founder and owner of P448. Curti founded his label, which offers sneakers at retail prices up to 200 Euros, in 2012 and has decided to produce his shoes exclusively in Italy. “By producing in Italy we guarantee quality and ensure that we have control of every step in the manufacturing process”, he explains. Market Proximity is Crucial
In view of increasing consumer appreciation, Maximilian Koehler also decided in favour of European raw materials and production capacities when he launched Quantum Courage, his women’s fashion label, in 2013. “The transparency of the production processes is a key decision criterion for our exclusive customers. The ‘Made in Europe’ tag emphasises the aspect of sustainability, the compliance with ethical standards, and thus also affects the purchasing decision of consumers quite significantly. The craftsmanship and processing quality one can find in Europe are truly unique”, he says. On the other hand, production plants in the Far East tend to focus on quantity and favour large customers. In Europe, the production process is more flexible and the service levels are higher. “For us, the close and continuous dialogue with our suppliers is very important. The proximity to our production sites is an absolute advantage. It means that we can execute our product control processes swiftly; it also simplifies and shortens our delivery routes. In turn, this has a very positive impact on our already very high customer satisfaction level. Despite the additional costs incurred in Europe, we are convinced that it is economically viable to produce
in Europe in the short, medium, and long term”, Koehler argues. Reacting Swiftly
“The ‘Made in’ distinction may not be the decisive reason for a purchase decision, but it is an additional argument. Consumers appreciate the fact that an item has been manufactured in Europe. In the case of Italy, it translates into a willingness to pay between ten and 15 percent more”, says Daniele Fiesoli, the managing director of WoolGroup, which has its own manufacturing facilities in Italy. In his capacity as a manufacturing specialist, Fiesoli is repeatedly approached by larger brands and private labels that are interested in returning their Asian production orders to Italy. “There is a visible tendency to return production capacities to European countries such as Italy, Portugal, Romania, among others. The main advantages are faster delivery times, the opportunity to place smaller volumes in the form of several orders during the season in order to respond to customer demand more efficiently, and the fact that the rising transport costs and the diminishing wage difference between Europe and Asia make local production more attractive in terms of cost”, Fiesole explains. “One of the main reasons for the strengthening of Europe as a production location is, of course, the logistics advantage. European suppliers respond better and faster; the speed helps us to serve customer expectations and market demands more efficiently”, confirms Michael Azoulay, the chief executive at American Vintage. The brand currently manufactures 60 percent of its products in Europe style in progress 416
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and Morocco, while the remaining 40 percent is manufactured in Asia. Reshoring is the Magic Word
While this may sound hopeful, one should note the hard figures that warn against falling victim to a pink-clouded view of the situation. In its Reshoring Index 2015, the consulting firm A.T. Kearney states that there is selective back-reshoring (return of production to the domestic market) and near-reshoring (relocation of production to neighbouring countries), but highlights that offshoring is still higher in proportion. Especially in the clothing industry, which must be increasingly focused on the customers and react ever faster, the option of reshoring offers enormous potential. “We have seen a sporadic return to our association in Europe by German brands; there are definitely selective tendencies of that sort. It remains to be seen whether this develops into an actual trend. However, the decisive factors are the shorter delivery routes and the potential to react to market changes quicker due to market proximity”, says Hartmut Speisecke, the spokesman for the Confederation of the German Textile and Fashion Industry. What’s quite ironic is that the likes of Zara and H&M, which initially triggered the shift of manufacturing to low-wage countries, are also tapping into European production capacities despite the high cost of labour. Speed is simply too important for them too. Uni-Club MoRe, a research group created by the co-operation of five Italian universities, has been looking into this topic since 2005. It believes that - alongside the pioneering US - countries such as Italy, Germany, Great Britain, and France have been the profiteers of reshoring since the financial crisis of 2009. The study says that 50 percent of the returnees operate in the clothing segment. The reasons speak volumes: 25.1 percent state cost and product-related aspects as the reason, while 21.9 percent state logistics costs. At least 19.7 percent claim that the “Made in” distinction is decisive, another 19.7 percent 416 style in progress
point to increasing labour costs in the Far East, 18.9 percent have quality concerns, and 17.8 percent highlight the struggle with delivery delays and lack of customer service. According to the study, it is becoming clear that these reasons could lead to an increase of return activity in the future. Local Production has Potential
A survey by the Boston Consulting Group among major US companies in December 2015 concluded that 31 percent of the companies will expand their respective production capacities in the US within the next five years. The downside is that 20 percent also plan to increase their respective capacities in China. This suggests that large corporations are more interested in a geographical diversification of their production structures than promoting a pure return initiative. A practical example is Walmart’s reshoring initiative, which intends to return goods production to the tune of 250 billion US Dollars from overseas back to the US by 2023. Nike also announced plans to create 10,000 production jobs once the Transatlantic Free Trade Agreement (TTIP) takes effect. An example in Europe is UK-based Burberry, which announced its intent to invest 50 million British Pounds in local factories early this year. Communication of “Made in” Remains with Company
Although there are many reasons that justify reshoring, the lack of obligation in terms of “Made in” distinctions - and the lack of transparency in terms of the actual origin of a product - remains a real problem on a regulatory level. If a pair of sunglasses is assembled in Italy despite all the components being produced in China, one can still claim that it was “Made in Italy”. A solution to this problem is not in sight, at least not one implemented by the public sector. “To this day, many of our customers aren’t aware of how high the degree of added value for our products is still generated in Germany and it is our aim to communicate this aspect more. We are willing to utilise
more provocative advertising campaigns that challenge the customers to think about production conditions”, says Mey’s Matthias Mey. This means that companies need to communicate the origin of their respective clothes in a more pro-active manner. “Mey has an extremely vertical business model that, to a large extent, creates value within the company. 85 percent of the materials are produced in-house, while 100 percent are cut to size internally. The last step concerns the manufacturing itself, which is, however, usually the most expensive part of the process”, Mey says. In addition, the company launched the label mey story, which deliberately works with the “Handmade in Germany” distinction. “It is scientifically proven that customers appreciate handmade items more. In the case of mey story, we created an independent brand based on our own values. The products are ‘Handmade in Germany’ - from the yarn to the finished item. It’s about values, convictions, and the essence of what Mey stands for as a company. Especially in Japan and Korea, the appreciation for handmade items and interest in the respective background story is particularly high. We are doing very well in Germany too, but there is still a lot of development potential here.” Driving Force Industry 4.0
Does this mean that producing in Europe, as well as returning production capacities from abroad to Europe, is only a sensible option for brands that serve the medium and upper price segments of the fashion industry? Innovations in the field of digital technology offer other options. Under the heading “Industry 4.0”, an increasing number of research groups and companies have started working on interlinking industrial production with modern information and communication technologies. The pioneers in this area are sportswear manufacturers. For example, Adidas is currently working on its Speedfactory, a system that utilises 3D printers to produce tailored sports shoes locally within a very short period of time. “At
present, it takes up to 18 months until a product reaches a store. This includes the design process, product development, sell-in, production, shipping etc. This timeframe could be reduced significantly by using the Adidas Speedfactory. This not only allows us to react to trends quicker, but also enables us to fulfil the wishes of the creator in terms of speed, aesthetics, and performance more efficiently”, says Katja Schreiber, the spokeswoman for the company. “When I joined Adidas, the production capacities were migrating. Now they are returning to Germany”, Herbert Hainer, the chairman of Adidas, told Handelsblatt in September 2016. The Speedfactory in Ansbach is expected to produce the first 500 pairs of shoes as early as this fall. In perspective, the factories should become an integral production component: “In 2015, we produced a total of 301 million pairs of shoes. Based on our strategic business plan - titled ‘Creating the New’ - we expect annual revenue growth in the double digits until 2020. As part of this plan, we will produce approximately 30 million additional pairs of shoes per year. In this context, the Speedfactory facilities provide additional production capacities. To put this into perspective for you, each of the factories is expected to produce 500,000 pairs of shoes in the medium to long term”, Schreiber explains. It is a development that puts the strengthening of Europe as a production location into a completely different light. This development doesn’t - as so many hope - create jobs but replaces workers with industrial innovations such as 3D printers. The Boston Consulting Group predicts that 25 percent of production in Germany will be executed by machines by 2025. In 2015, it was 10 percent. Nevertheless, added value is about to return. 71 percent of the managers that took part in the survey by the Boston Consulting Group quoted earlier in this article said that new manufacturing techniques make production in the West more economical.
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“Germany Has a Culture of Innovation We Need to Utilise It” Lisa Lang, the founder of fashion-tech start-up ElektroCouture and a jury member at the Telekom Fashion Fusion competition for fashion technology, believes in Europe as a production location with an Industry 4.0 hub in Berlin. Interview: Quynh Tran. Photo: ElektroCouture
Is Europe in the process of becoming more attractive as a production location for the textile industry again?
Our customers repeatedly tell me about how they had to schedule more time and face higher costs after moving their respective production processes to Asia due to lower prices. It seems like they are experiencing something akin to a hangover. For more than ten years, we experienced a price decline that brought us into a situation in which there is no quality, no development, no innovation, and no joy. The creative heads are “burned”, mainly because they are expected to produce constantly. Europe has become more attractive as a location in recent years, because industry players have recognised that price isn’t all that matters and that Europe can offer both style and innovation. The necessary infrastructure is already in place and the price is absolutely justified due to the fact that the producers know what they’re doing. If we order something in Europe, we can be sure that it will be produced, delivered on time, and that there will be no waste. In order to work successfully, you have to work together with people and machines. In this context, it is an advantage that the developers, producers, and the market itself are in close proximity of each other. Which role does digitalisation of the industry - socalled Industry 4.0 - play in this context?
First and foremost, Industry 4.0 allows you to take advantage of existing technologies
more efficiently by manipulating them via digitalisation. One can, for instance, re-programme sewing machines and looms to create a more innovative and more efficient production process. On the other hand, there are new forms of fashion technologies that enable us to work with completely new materials. Examples include smart textiles and 3D printers. Owning a 3D printer, with which one can supply a customer with a customised product after a scan, must sound like a wet dream to large clothing manufacturers. This is also the wish of the customer. However, the reality looks a little different. 3D printing hasn’t been perfected yet, there are still certain problems in terms of construction, and the whole process remains too expensive. Furthermore, there are no certifications for 3D printed products and scalable manufacturing costs only work when there are standards that allow producers to hedge risks. The situation in terms of prototyping is a little better. For a designer, there is nothing better than having an idea, uploading it into a machine, and printing a 3D shape almost instantly. The jewellery and accessories segments are more advanced in this respect. One can print a mould for casting, which is actually more precise and cheaper than the classic mould production process. One can also print 3D objects that are subsequently coated with gold and/or silver. Europe has a high-quality, quick production chain. We don’t need to look beyond the borders of Europe, because everything
is already here in that area. Especially when it comes to new-fangled techniques, designers have to look into the production chain. In this case, it is in Europe. Vojd Studios, for example, is a Berlin-based 3D printing studio that designs couture jewellery, but also produces for the likes of Alexander McQueen and Dior. The latter brought their business to Berlin instead of staying in London or Paris. This is crazy, especially considering how much Berlin is struggling with its reputation. However, Berlin has an emerging new generation of individuals who promote high-tech, high-quality innovations with the typical German seriousness.
Lisa Lang firmly believes that the use of technology can prove to be a catalyst for returning production capacities to Europe.
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Bel Paese The tide turns once again. Until recently, the Italian business news was dominated by idle factories and cheap production by Chinese companies. However, hope is returning. This is the return of entrepreneurs willing to invest despite stagnation, run their respective businesses dynamically, and prepare for the upturn that seems so logical. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
The image of “Made in Italy” remains strong. If one thinks about European fashion, one needs to include Italian competence. Design, manufacturing, and processing - Italy is the undisputed industry leader in many disciplines. Is it really a surprise that positive company results - oh yes, they exist - are always driven by passionate businessmen? While some giants of the Italian fashion industry are stumbling, struggling with tax scandals, and battling declining share prices, many medium-sized companies have proved to be recession-proof. Reacting to market changes meant that these companies had to concentrate on exporting unconditionally and finally accept that the clocks tick differently elsewhere. This may not have prompted anyone to remove the “Ferragosto” closing times from the calendar just yet, but both agencies and customers who have dealt with Italian companies for a long time confirm that the export business has undergone a professionalization process. Exchanges, returns, payment terms with discounts, a move away from “rubber deadlines”, a reliable warehouse programme, B2B portals, and reorder options - one no longer has to remind Italian business partners of the textbook for joint success. style in progress sat down for a chat with a number of Italian entrepreneurs and learned a lot
about the strengths of those who managed to turn necessity into their virtue. These companies have positioned themselves perfectly in the niche and never tire of adapting their products to the challenges of our time and general market conditions. However, they have never lost sight of the necessary “Italianitá”.
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Frankie Morello
“We Are Stated Optimists” Since the take over by FFM, the designer brand Frankie Morello has blossomed anew. The driving force behind the investment is the Ammaturo family, who previously made money by in vesting in the oil and energy sectors. Angela Ammaturo has proven that fashion fits into her family’s portfolio of companies and agreed to sit down with style in progress to reveal her plans for the brand’s future. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Frankie Morello
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The Italian fashion industry is in crisis mode for a variety of reasons, but your family decided to invest in a fashion business nonetheless. Why?
The entire Italian economy has to be seen within the European context and is struggling at the moment. This obviously also applies to the fashion industry. The question is when it will recover again. I think we can expect an upturn in the medium term. We have turned the corner and therefore it is likely that we will experience moderate growth in the future. Furthermore, the decision makers have recognised the need to change course and abandon current austerity policies. My family and I are stated optimists and we made this investment in fashion with a medium-term perspective. We don’t want to miss out on profiting when the economy picks up again and we must prepare for it now. It is, of course, very challenging, but the Ammaturo family relishes challenges. My dream is to turn Frankie Morello into one of Italy’s trendsetting brands that can inspire strong growth within the entire industry. It’s a long way from the oil industry to the fashion business. Whose idea was it?
It was my idea. My family was very interested as soon as I made the proposition. I think I have introduced a new aspect to the way my family perceives its businesses. Now the family members - especially my father - are really enthusiastic and I enjoy their full support. I gave birth to this idea and now it has learned to walk with the backing of all the entrepreneurial experience and resources our family has to offer. I have been fascinated by fashion since I was a teenager. It has a mystical aspect. Fashion is
an art and is among the artistic things that people require on a daily basis to feel good.
Frankie Morello isn’t merely an investment for you. It is also a task that takes up all of your time, especially in your role as CEO. Do you concentrate on this task exclusively or do you have additional duties within the FFM Group?
No, I don’t have any managerial functions in other companies, which allows me to commit all my efforts to Frankie Morello. The project fulfils me. I have worked on it almost without a break, yet I have never grown weary of the task. I am more than happy to be involved in all aspects of the business. Naturally, I could never do that without the support and contributions of my fantastic team. What got you hooked? Was it the glamorous side of fashion or the numbers?
It was a combination of both. I find both aspects very exciting. I am happy to work in an industry with a certain glamour factor. However, this alone wouldn’t have been enough to make me take action. It was the motivation to run a business. Will Frankie Morello remain the only family investment in the fashion industry or is this just the start of a whole new field of activity?
That’s a tough question. Right now, I’m so focused on Frankie Morello that I can’t envisage doing anything else. However, I’m sure that I will have the desire to develop another fashion project sooner or later. It’s a bit like being a mother. One cares deeply about raising a child, but one still thinks about having more children. What are the main advantages of investing in a phase of decline or stagnation?
As I said before, one has to pre-
Frankie Morello is set to open its flagship store and a showroom on Milan‘s Corso Venezia.
pare in this phase in order to be successful in the future. In such phases one can, of course, take advantage of excellent chances that others fail to capitalise on while they are in trouble. This also applies to, for instance, employees; it’s easier to bring them on board now. That was great for us. I managed to hire excellent people, because they were released elsewhere. If you are doing a good job, you can generate good business in such phases, thereby paving the way for a better and solid future.
Italian design and Italian clothing enjoy a certain status in all your export markets. What does Italy need to do to retain this image?
Italy must avoid the mistake to rest on laurels of the past. Fashion needs the ability to reinvent itself constantly. It needs new ideas, new emotions, young designers, and employees who are capable of interpreting the here-and-now, as well as anticipating the future. That is paramount. Frankie Morello’s “Reborn” project mirrors the world of the young. It interprets the interaction of people and technology, which is incredibly
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Angela Ammaturo at the collection presentation for the export partners of Frankie Morello.
important in this day and age. That is certainly a new influence within the fashion industry.
As an entrepreneur, do you feel like you are being supported by the government and governmental organisations?
Yes, I do. There are, for example, good programmes for women and founders. The government and governmental organisations
really can help and I believe that they are doing their best to support entrepreneurs like me. Moreover, there are many ways in which the government does help indirectly, such as creating an environment that promotes growth. What makes Italy a good home for a company like yours?
Italy is my country and it is a truly magical place. It’s full of history, art, culture, and fabulous regions. It has been a source of inspiration for generations of designers and it still is. If one mentions Milan, the first thing that comes to mind is fashion. There’s nothing left to add to that. If you could be Italy’s prime minister for a day, what would you do help the fashion industry?
That would be a really difficult task. I think that our prime minister is, generally speaking, doing the best he can and that naturally has a positive impact on the fashion industry. There are some new initiatives to support export-oriented companies. The fashion industry can benefit greatly from those. Your business is family-run - does this make things different?
The sense of responsibility and belonging is very great in a family-owned company. This does not mean that it isn’t like that elsewhere too, but I feel these values are stronger within a family-managed business. From an organisational point of view, being a family-run company is definitely an advantage, especially at the beginning and during the development phase of a business. If one considers, for example, an IPO, a company needs to have a different organisational structure. A strong fashion identity and an unmistakable design language are essential features of Frankie Morello.
about Frankie Morello in this respect. Which mark do you want to leave?
I am a businesswoman in the truest sense of the term. My clear goal is to generate revenue and profit while satisfying my customers at the same time. I want to develop the company in a way that allows it to list on the stock exchange in the medium term. Achieving such an aim would be the greatest achievement for me personally. I don’t want to sound melodramatic, but I believe that companies also have social functions. Successful companies generate wealth and create jobs. If I perform well, others benefit too. Which entrepreneurial characteristics did you learn from your father and what can he in turn - learn from you?
My father is an entrepreneur through and through. I learned from him how to be self-motivated. It gave me the ability to believe in my dreams and to make them come true with drive and commitment. In turn, my father enjoys the fact that he gets to learn about the fashion sector through me. He senses that it is beneficial for our group to add new business fields. That’s a positive development.
What are your goals for your company? I’m not only talking
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Ottod’Ame
“We Don’t Run Before We Can Walk”
Fashionable femininity made in Italy is an essential feature of Ottod’Ame. The label with a strong self-identity is internationally oriented and is therefore not only successful in markets such as the US and Asia, but also in France and in the German-speaking countries. In this interview, owner Silvia Mazzoli explains what it takes to succeed. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Ottod’Ame
What makes Ottod’Ame different to other brands?
We travel a lot in order to understand the respective market conditions and needs accurately and consequently respond to them in a sensitive manner. Accordingly, our collection is not niche-oriented, but deliberately varied. This also applies to the range of sizes we offer. This policy allows us to serve different customers in different markets. At the same time, we never lose sight of the strong identity of the Ottod’Ame woman. We have made it our mission to create high-quality fashion that is never banal. We want our fashion to trigger emotions and don’t follow mass trends. What else is important?
For example, the right balance of quality and price is important. It is also paramount that we, as a company, aspire to retain a certain level of modesty and humility. Our guiding principle is that we don’t run before we can walk. This means that we prefer
to develop new ideas step by step and as carefully as possible before we unleash them on the market.
Success requires investment. In which areas?
We want to be visible as a brand, which is why we invested in advertising. We have focused on our home market Italy in particular, but have also invested in Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, and the UK. Furthermore, we now have flagship stores in Florence, Milan, and Tokyo; we plan to open more in other capitals worldwide. We’ve also expanded our communication network in order to strengthen our customer service. Similarly, we are working on our distribution network. In addition, we constantly strive to be a reliable partner in terms of service and delivery. Our stability not only allows us to satisfy existing customers, but also enables us to convince new customers quickly. As for the collection, we are in the process of structuring our range of accessories. There is certainly
potential in this sector.
What skills does it take to be a good entrepreneur?
I believe it takes humanity and humility, determination, spirit of discovery, curiosity, and the ability to look ahead.
Silvia Mazzoli, the owner of Ottod’Ame, believes that responding to current market conditions sensitively is a prerequisite for any global collection.
Ottod’Ame refuses to focus on a niche market quite deliberately. The brand is diverse both in fashion styles and size spectrum.
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Lardini
“Passion and Love Unites Us” The Lardini family, which hails from the tranquil municipality of Filottrano, has demonstrated that it is possible to take advantage of opportunities in times of crisis. A modern interpretation of traditional tailoring and tangible intrinsic value are but two of the most obvious virtues of the brand. style in progress sat down with Luigi Lardini, the creative director, to talk about the emergence of the family business. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Lardini
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Yes, one can describe Lardini as the epitome of traditional sartorial artistry. The brand is based on decades of tailoring experience, local knowledge, and the sheer determination to uphold the promise of quality that the Italian manufacturing industry implies. The combination of these values has ensured that Lardini has come a long way. As a result, the company is one of the most important clothing manufacturers on the Italian and international markets. Based in Filottrano, Lardini is perceived as the custodian of manufacturing skills upheld by very few businesses. Filottrano, an enchanting medieval town in the Ancona area, is not only a spectacular corporate setting, but - as Luigi Lardini puts it - “also nourishes Lardini’s very soul”. Today, 2,000 garments are produced in Filottrano before being sent out to international markets via a constantly expanding distribution chain that currently relies on 550 sales outlets in carefully selected multi-brand stores and retail areas in the best department stores - not only in Europe, but also in Japan, Korea, Russia, China, and the US. In 2014, Lardini opened a new showroom in a prestigious historical building in Via Manzoni in Milan’s so-called “Golden Triangle”. In 2016, the premises were extended by a further 300 square metres. This wasn’t the only expansion project of 2016. Lardini also improved the technological setup of its production plant in Filottrano and almost doubled its surface area. Naturally, the company ensured it didn’t jeopardise its sustainability standards or detract from the surrounding landscape. This was a strong statement in the midst of an unstable economic climate and an international crisis.
Luigi Lardini is the brand’s creative director. He built the business with his three siblings, Andrea, Lorena, and Annarita.
Out of Nowhere
A glance into the corporate history books makes clear that the Lardini family has always been adept at taking advantage of opportunities. When Luigi Lardini launched his menswear collection at the tender age of eighteen, he was armed with little else than a passion for style and elegance. Intuitively sensing the potential of his choices, his brother Andrea, then 21, and his sister Lorena, then 19, followed suit. Their father provided financial backing during the start-up phase. In 1978, a tailoring workshop was opened and it soon attracted the attention of international fashion icons. Within a matter of years, the siblings expanded their list of
customers, which soon included some distinguished international names. Business burgeoned and the Lardinis took on different roles, acting in different - yet complementing - capacities to foster corporate development. Andrea, with his degree in computer engineering, was predestined to take care of the technological aspects of the business, while Lorena took on the responsibility for administrative and financial management. A few years later, their younger sister, Annarita, also joined the family business and assumed responsibility for quality control. Motivated by their success and the desire to take advantage of new expansion possibilities, the Lardini family decided to
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Lardini has significantly increased its production capacity in Filottrano near Ancona in order to meet the demand for the brand’s own collection and the items it manufactures under license.
take on a new endeavour and sought to forge a collection in its own name. In 1993, the first menswear collection by Lardini emerged from the workshops. Today, Lardini’s own-name collections are split into various lines. They may differ in style, but they all boast the same meticulous sartorial attention to detail. One example is Gabriele Pasini, a namesake collection created by the gifted designer who combines figure-hugging tailoring with classic British aesthetics and its inherent rebellious streak. + Lardini is the result of creative collaborations with a string of internationally significant fashion pioneers. An essential collaboration in terms of style and visibility is the one with Nick Wooster. RVR Lardini, on the other hand, is a sustainable outerwear collection which is given a unique spin by the concept of reversibility. The letters RVR stand for “reversible”. Last but not least, there is the Lardini womenswear collection, which translates all the innovations of the menswear lines into feminine garments and is rapidly gaining a foothold in the market.
Why is Lardini experiencing growth while others are struggling?
What has always differentiated us from others is the careful research into small details. We constantly experiment with different materials, thereby adding real innovation to every item. However, all innovations are fully mature.
Do you think it helps that your business is family-owned? What is the advantage?
The strength of a family-owned business is the passion and love that unites us. We are fighting for something we believe in on a daily basis. We are dynamic, highly flexible, and always capable of reacting to the changes of the European and international markets. Today, there are no more rules and we have to get used to this new way of operating. Is it hard to find suitable and sufficiently talented personnel to support your growth?
The most important thing is to have confidence in others and - above all - to have an excellent portfolio. Talent equals credibility. It is no longer enough to merely have a good collec-
tion. What improvements did you make, especially in terms of the needs of your export markets?
Simply put, the main improvements pertained to service, quality, and price.
Will the womenswear collection follow in the footsteps of the menswear collection in terms of success?
We want to create a successful collection that is both very “human” and retains the DNA that distinguishes us from others. The womenswear collection boasts a strong “Made in Italy” character and will therefore be able to gain market shares. Its elegance is combined with quality, style, refined textiles, and femininity. Stylistically renewed and reinterpreted, it embodies a new flavour. We separate its distribution channels from those of the menswear collection. The womenswear collection will find an independent path and have its own identity. After a long period of production migration, the luxury segment was the first to return home. What are the reasons for this?
Italy guarantees quality, but this also a promise backed up
by credibility and a very special way of life. Wherever you are, this country gives you something different every day.
Does the Italian state or the EU support the fashion industry in its attempts to regain its former strength?
Italy is Bel Paese, the most beautiful country in the world. It is also the country in which nobody helps you - neither the Italian state, nor the EU. There have never been synergies between the fashion industry and the state. We are following our path alone.
What is gnawing at the “Made in Italy” tag?
What is gnawing at it is the competition created by products that are manufactured in parts of the world where labour is underpaid. Over the years, the people have lost the culture of dressing well and give low priority to the acquired product. They prefer covering up to dressing up. Unfortunately, this defect has now also reached Italy. In the past, we were the world’s finest, but we are becoming increasingly global in a negative sense.
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Alpha Studio
“We Don’t Want to Lose Sight of Craftsmanship”
Alpha Studio does not only stand for fashionable knitwear and value-for-money, but, above all, also for excellent service. In this interview, Paolo Rossi, the son of the brand’s founder Franco Rossi, talks about how important it is to work in unison with customers and which investment is needed to achieve this. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Alpha Studio
Alpha Studio doesn’t seem affected by the general economic crisis. What makes your company so successful?
Maybe we aren’t affected because we have adapted to the new dynamics of the market and offer a high-quality product without increasing the price. Furthermore, we pursue a very customer-oriented strategy which includes excellent general service and warehouse services. We do everything possible to establish direct contact with our customers. What is the specific challenge?
The challenge is to listen to the market needs and to adapt our own organisation accordingly. That’s the only way to minimise the risk of our retail customers and - at the same time - to maximise the sell-out. This is beneficial for both sides.
What kind of investment is necessary to achieve this?
We try to perfect our processes constantly and have, for example, invested in our B2B portal. The portal not only allows the customers to reorder goods, but also to exchange items when necessary. The process is uncomplicated and does not involve the distribution department as an additional intermediary. Similarly, we have established our own logistics hub with partners such as DHL and DPD, which allows us to deliver swiftly. Our delivery service doesn’t merely come round once a day, but twice. It even handles smaller parcels, for instance when a retailer reorders a single size for a customer. Furthermore, we are investing in our process management and 416 style in progress
our own production facilities to ensure that we can react flexibly in that area too.
Is it conducive for this flexibility to be a family-run business?
In terms of finding and implementing creative - even unconventional - solutions, it is certainly beneficial to be a company with a tight, family-like structure. This is a clear competitive advantage over large and more complex production companies. It is, however, equally important to ensure that our employees are well-prepared and competent - both in production and customer service.
craftsmanship. In our case, we are not talking about a mere business, but about a company that knows the soul of its products very well. This is one of the reasons why we are trying to return our own production of parts of our collection to Italy step by step. We want to strengthen and retain our “Made in Italy” DNA.
Which entrepreneurial skills are especially important today?
A modern entrepreneur needs to be a visionary. He needs to be open in terms of customers, competitors, and new technologies. He also needs a sound management education that allows him to guide a company through more turbulent times. In our business, it is equally essential not to lose sight of
Paolo Rossi, the son of Alpha Studio collection founder Franco Rossi, knows that a small company can respond to market dynamics swiftly.
AT.P.CO, People of Shibuya
“I Love My Brands”
A high-quality look at a great price - the womenswear and menswear collections of AT.P.CO have enjoyed such great success for a number of reasons. People of Shibuya hails from the same stable, so to speak. It offers Italian design, Japanese materials, and a simple - yet refined - collection. Luca Orsatti, the managing director of the parent companies Golden Season Srl and Goodfellas Srl, sat down with style in progress to explain the secret of his spectacular success. Interview: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: AT.P.CO, People of Shibuya
The Italian fashion industry is struggling. However, some companies - like your company - are developing excellently. Which factors are decisive?
Luca Orsatti believes that quick decisions, modern thinking, and decisive action are the most important virtues of an entrepreneur.
In a world that opens up a little more every day and that is connected across all continents, it is necessary to place economic markers within a few months rather than - as in the past within a period of several years. Quick decisions, efficiency, flexibility, and a fully digitalised management of all processes are the key factors for success. Most of the problems faced by Italian companies are caused by the inefficiency of the current system. We have created excellent efficiency in a difficult time for the market by trying to remain up-to-date. Examples include the adjustment to local laws and opportunities. Nevertheless, it is important to keep an eye on the global situation too. How do you assess the current market situation in Italy?
I don’t believe that the situation we find ourselves in is a crisis. It is a time of slow changes that affect the entire textile industry from the buying process to sales. AT.P.CO (“atipico”) stands for atypical. As the name suggests, the brand offers classics and fashion at a convincing price-performance ratio.
We co-operate directly with all our suppliers and manage every aspect internally. Thus, we are highly flexible and most importantly - effective in terms of cost control. Ultimately, this approach is reflected in our pricing.
more expensive to manufacture in Asia than in Italy. In Asia, we have developed a global, flexible sourcing system focused primarily on flexibility, quality, sustainability, and strategic in-time deliveries.
In which areas of your companies are you currently investing?
How do you assess the long-term prospects of Italy?
We have invested in all areas in order to do justice to our rapid growth. Right now, we are focusing on improved IT systems for stock and logistics management, the creation of brand identity, trade shows, digital communication, and - last but not least - product research.
Italy is a great country that experienced many golden years based only on its reputation and old structures. Following this sad awakening, I think that a new generation of emerging entrepreneurs will start rebuilding the industry with a more global mentality. In the long term, Italy will need to start monetising its advantages and knowhow. Italians are capable of working hard and, with new and more efficient systems, will be able to compete in all segments, not only the luxury one.
What is the most important characteristic of an entrepreneur?
Primarily, an entrepreneur needs to be passionate about what he does. I love my brands and my work in general, even though it can be difficult at times. At the end of the day, I always experience a feeling of satisfaction. Unfortunately, it’s not just a matter of intuition and a willingness to take risks, but sometimes one needs to focus on constant commitment and further calculations. One needs a lot of courage at the start, but one should take the time to devise long-term strategies and develop process analyses once one has reached a certain business volume.
You produce in China, Cambodia, Myanmar, and Italy. What are the main reasons for manufacturing in Asia?
We produce our products where we are granted access to specific production lines. It’s not only a matter of cost. In some cases, it can be
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Daniele Fiesoli
“We Perceive Our Clients as Partners” Daniele Fiesoli is the owner of WoolGroup, an Italian corporation that manufactures and distributes the brands Wool & Co and Daniele Fiesoli. As a sport enthusiast and optimist, he loves making the impossible possible. He sat down with style in progress to discuss the strengths of “Made in Italy” and the advantages of being a family business. Interview: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Daniele Fiesoli
The collection by Daniele Fiesoli shows what you can do with knitwear.
In Italy, there are fashion businesses - and even entire regions - that are at rock bottom in terms of the economy. Then there are companies - like yours - that have a positive economic outlook and are getting ever stronger. What makes the difference?
Professionalism is certainly a key factor in this respect, but that’s not enough to be successful. Today, a company needs to be creative in all departments. The reason why we are still experiencing growth is that we are a stable and reliable business. I prefer to perceive our clients as partners, not as mere numbers. How did you manage to react better than others to the crisis and its challenges?
Everything changes very quickly in our industry. What is right this season can be completely wrong in the next season. One must always be prepared to change one’s views, thoughts, and strategies without losing 416 style in progress
product coherence. We need to surprise our customers, but also convey a feeling of safety and solidity. Our inherent curiosity ensures that we continue looking for the right approach, while passion inspires us to experiment. Last but not least, our corporate structure allows us to remain flexible. We keep on questioning what we do.
the fashion business are no longer manufacturers, but mere converters. We still design and manufacture in-house, which is the reason why we can deliver fashionable knitwear of great quality at reasonable prices.
Which customer need played into your hands during this period?
How does your company’s investment programme shape up these days? Are you currently in an investment cycle and - if so - which departments of your business are you investing in?
Any customer who is not driven by the price and is willing to pay a certain price for quality… We do not merely supply fabrics. We offer our retailers a professional distribution model, a guaranteed margin of 2.8, B2B full-service, on-time deliveries, and the certainty of always offering products that allow our customers to satisfy the consumers. All these things sound like they should be taken for granted, but - believe me - they are not self-evident. Many of our competitors in
As a matter of fact, we need to invest due to our continuous revenue increase. However, it is always difficult to create budgets for all the investments we would like to make. Currently, our focus is on communication and the integration of our IT department. We strive to be as closely connected with our business partners as possible. Today, apps and the Internet offer huge opportunities to nurture relationships. Furthermore, we continue to invest in our production
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FAST SHIFTING
Wool & Co. embodies casual wool-wear and cool ready-to-wear clothing.
process and our employees, as well as in state-of-the-art software. In the medium term, we will implement mono-brand retail projects. Has your company’s positive development been helped by the fact that you are a family business? If so, what makes family business more resilient and agile in times of crisis?
It is important to have people you can trust in strategic key positions within the company. We have proven to be a good team. When a company is run like a “family”, the approach of every single worker is different. Everybody strives to do the best for his “family” and doesn’t merely focus on his or her own responsibilities. Naturally, this approach is ultimately reflected in the products. You are perceived as a passionate entrepreneur who is not afraid of taking risks, willing to tackle every task,
and capable of developing a business based on your own visions. What are the most important virtues that an entrepreneur should have in times like these?
You need to improvise, adapt, and overcome. You need to be able to adapt your business model to the ever changing market without losing your roots and identity. How do you assess the prospects of Italy? Will Italy be able to retain its status as a production location in the long term or do you think that more production capacities will be transferred out of the country?
Absolutely not. I see an increasing volume of production capacities returning to Italy. This doesn’t apply to all segments, but it is noticeable in segments in which the product is more important than the price. We are approached by other brands from all over the globe on a
daily basis, mainly because the manufacturing base has been reduced drastically. This means it is more difficult to find manufacturers that know how to compete with the rest of the world in terms of innovation, speed, quality, and price. I believe that the larger issue we face today is the dramatic drop in quality and sales figures. What does it take to maintain the “Made in Italy” approach?
It takes my own stubbornness and my belief that what we manufacture is not merely a simple lump of steel. We create emotions and passion. We have centuries of heritage to live up to. The best designer in the world would be nothing without the immense knowledge of the woman who sews, knits, or irons the products. These skills cannot be taught. They are passed on from generation to generation over centuries and the result is a range of truly beautiful products.
Daniele Fiesoli is perceived as an entrepreneur who is willing to take chances.
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L’Incontro. MOVING CLOSER TOGETHER
A private label under the name of the club promises to deliver fashion in-time.
No experience exchange group, no buying association, but an exclusive club of like-minded retailers - the inception of L’Incontro creates a new circle of premium retail players. The goal is exchange in the truest sense of the word. Text: Lisa Freund. Photos: L’Incontro
“The challenges you currently need to master as a retailer are elementary. We are in the midst of a change process and everyone is trying to find solutions in their own individual way. I often feel the urge to exchange information regarding this process. I’d like to ask others about their plans, to deliberate, and to provide each other with some feedback”, Katrin Kollervan Eersel said roughly one year ago. In the meantime, the idea 416 style in progress
has taken shape and her wish has transformed into a specific project. The club that connects Katrin Koller-van Eersel with like-minded store owners in Germany and Austria is called L’Incontro. “The ultimate goal is to create a real added value for all retail members.” It is, after all, only possible to convince retailers of cooperation if one offers tangible benefits. “We are all lone wolves, but once I visited and had long talks with all desired members, they all had something to think about. Is the lone wolf approach still up-todate? Wouldn’t we be better off as part of a network?”, the club founder explains. “Even the initial talks were impressively candid and inspiring - we became closer instantly.” The subsequent talks sharpened the profile of the proposed club. “The input from
the members unearthed new priorities. The services the club offers reflect the wish lists of the members.” Achieving More Together
The basic idea to face challenges together has led to many practical ideas. One example, is exchange of information. A chat room connects the members from mobile to mobile. For instance, a member sitting in a Parisian showroom can now ask others about their experiences with a certain brand. “If one of the members discovers a new brand, he or she can easily tip off colleagues.” However, experience is not the only thing the members can share. “We offer an encrypted Internet platform that allows members to help each other out with goods. They can offer items that don’t sell to oth-
ers or - what is more common - look for goods they need. This could be a Chloé dress in XS that a customer is looking for and that one can normally not obtain via the brand itself during the current season”, Katrin Kollervan Eersel explains. “Sometimes we even exchange decoration materials. For example, I ordered elaborate angel wings in the style of Victorias Secret for our mannequins last year. It would be a real shame to throw them away, but I can’t display them in our city for a second time either. So I simply passed them on to a colleague.” In addition, the platform offers goodies that the club negotiates for its members: excellent terms at hotels, suppliers, and service providers, as well as fresh ideas on how to generate more frequency and business. The latter can include social
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Plugging Gaps Intelligently
The head networker of L’Incontro is Katrin Koller-van Eersel.
media training or fashion shows. The members enjoy discounts in this respect. These first case studies are merely the beginning. The club, which has five founding members, has been operative since early September. “Every new member allows us to take a step forwards.”
Why it is so vital that the retailers have similar profiles family-run, progressive in terms of style, and active in the upscale segment - becomes clear when Katrin Koller-van Eersel starts talking about another project: the L’Incontro fashion label. “We are not looking to create basics with an excellent margin, but fashion with an excellent margin. We strive to create a collection with short order and delivery rhythms, which are perfect for ensuring that the goods can be reordered when the first gaps in the product range appear. This could be, for instance, a certain lambskin coat, but in exactly that lightblue colour tone that has proven to be so popular this season. Our retailers ordered that coat early August and received their order in October.” In addition to the hard facts - for example a calculation factor of up to 3.2 Katrin Koller-van Eersel believes it is very important to have an
appropriate background story for the label. “We manufacture our products in small production facilities near Vicenza. These manufacturing partners also supply highly respected brands.” This aspect of the club makes it difficult to define the exact nature of L’Incontro. The club certainly isn’t an experience exchange group, a buying association, or an advertising union. “It is a modern club. We are young in terms of thinking, agile, flexible, and can adapt to changing needs quickly.” Katrin Koller-van Eersel is, however, adamant that she would never dream about questioning the regional exclusivity of the members. “Our members are far enough apart in order not to compete with each other. Seeing that this is guaranteed, everyone plays with open cards.” L’Incontro has big plans for the coming year: “We strive to grow, create new offers, and will work on joint solutions, for instance for the online segment.”
L’Incontro is the name of a club that connects upscale retailers, promises its members advantageous terms, and has developed a private label exclusively for its members. The membership fee starts at 299 Euros per month. The club only accepts applicants that are perceived as a perfect fit in terms of business profile. For a list of the first members and further information visit www.l-incontro.de.
The items are manufactured in small production facilities in Italy.
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Diadora Heritage Made in Italy
The highlights of the Heritage Line of Diadora, an Italian sports equipment manufacturer, are its premium models, which are manufactured exclusively in Italy. To this end, the company has revived a production line consisting of old original machinery in the plant in Caerano di San Marco in Treviso after more than 15 years of standstill. Enrico Moretti Polegato, the president and managing director of Diadora, explains: “We are very proud that, in so few years, we have not only managed to lead the business back to international success, but also managed to reintegrate parts of our production capacity back into the company. This decision enables us to take maximum advantage of the expertise in terms of design and development of sports shoes that our region harbours. In turn, this allows us to supply our demanding customers with high-quality and innovative products.” The customers of the Heritage Line in Germany and Austria include household names such as Lodenfrey, Braun, Daniels, Breuninger, Sagmeister, and Dantendorfer. The international customer list includes the likes of Hanon, Patta, 24 Kilates, Kith, Packer, and Concept. The retail prices of the “Made in Italy” line range from 215 to 340 Euros. Diadora Heritage, Giovanni Calmonte, Caerano S. Marco/Italy, T 0039.01.119887811, giovanni.calmonte@diadorasport.it, www.diadora.com 416 style in progress
Tortona 21 The Elegance of Simplicity Tortona 21 is the new knitwear line that complements the total look of Florence-based Antonelli. In line with Antonelli’s guidelines, Tortona 21 strives to highlight female elegance with elements of simplicity. Clear lines, deliberately simple designs, and high-quality textures create ever new forms for an understated daily chic. The entire collection is designed and manufactured in Florence. The preferred materials are cashmere and linen. In Italy, Tortona 21 has approximately 100 retail customers, including La Tenda in Milan. In Germany, the knitwear line is represented by Vestitus, the agency that also handles the distribution of Antonelli’s womenswear. The exclusive Tortona 21 collection is stocked by German retailers such as Wirschke Düsseldorf, Daniels in Cologne and Munich, Möller & Schaar Frankfurt, KaDeWe Berlin, Burresi Wiesbaden, and Schnitzler Münster. The purchase prices range from 80 to 200 Euros - with a calculation factor of 2.8. Antonelli Firenze, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.25061272, showroom@antonellifirenze.com, www.antonellifirenze.com
8and7 Talisman From Another Planet
Detlef Block, a Munich-based designer, has focused Eternal-Eight-and-Holy-Seven, his accessories collection, on lucky charm symbolism and special materials. “Eternal 8” stands for infinity and is an attempt to convey the power of perfection, infinity, integrity, and perseverance in pursuing a liberated lifestyle. “Holy 7” is supposed to embody energy, joy, happiness, and a positive attitude towards individuality. For example, Block used parts of meteorites from Campo del Cielo in Argentina for one of his bracelets. This limited edition of 87 Deep Space Bracelets also consists of onyx, chalcedony, and - like all other pieces - 925 sterling silver. The retail price stands at 349 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.5. A necklace made of lava, sandalwood, and 925 sterling silver - with the symbolic name Earth S - costs 299 Euros. The collection, which includes bracelets, necklaces, rings, and pendants, currently consists of more than 60 models at prices ranging from 169 to 579 Euros. New models are being added to the collection constantly. 8and7 is currently stocked by stores such as Different Fashion Store in Mannheim. eternal-eight-and-holy-seven, 80807 Munich/Germany, T. 0049.89.55006311, info@8and7.co, www.8and7.co
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Local Authority Rebellious Lifestyle Local Authority Los Angeles embodies the cool and rebellious lifestyle of California. The label was launched by two friends from Malibu in 2014. The two founders have devoted themselves to a rock & roll vintage style against the backdrop of the young art and music scene, as well as the real underground culture of surfers, skaters, and bikers. The slogan for their fashion is “The Fucked Up Friends Club”. The casual look has already won over celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Miley Cyrus, and Kendall Jenner. Every year, the label launches two collections with up to 20 styles. The t-shirts cost 48 Euros, while the sweaters range from 85 to 105 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. Brama started distributing Local Authority as of spring/summer 2017. The Brama Group is responsible for the European markets, the Middle East, and Russia. Brama Gallery covers the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets. In the US, the collection is listed at Maxfield, Hirshlifers, and Jeffrey’s. The list of German retailers includes household names such as Breuninger, Petra Teufel, Pool, Jades, Stylebop, and Mytheresa. Bramhagen Aps, Copenhagen/ Denmark, T 0045.5373.0004, nina@bramhagen.com, www.bramhagen.com
Mastercraft Union Quiet Luxury
Mastercraft Union, a denim label, was founded by Japan’s Hiro Yoskikawa in 2012. His Selvedge jeans with authentic and unique washes for men and women usually feature a small stretch percentage, thus ensuring a very good fit. The label’s celebrity fan base includes household names such as Brad Pitt, David Beckham, Michael Fassbender, Gerard Butler, and Dominic Cooper. A special highlight is the range of denim fabrics that are blended with razor-thin paper fibres. All the fabrics used in the collection are sourced from Japan. The fabrics are manufactured in a family-run weaving mill in Okayama before being washed and sewn in the mountains of Shimane. The washes are achieved by utilising volcanic pumice and water from the mountains’ hot springs. The collection consists of approximately 35 items. In addition to denim, the label also offers a small selection of jackets, shirts, army pants, chinos, and t-shirts. The retail prices for pants with mostly slim and tapered fits range from 349 to 699 Euros. The list of customers includes household names such as Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Abseits, Helmut Eder, Franz & Emil, Bazar Royal, Volls, Crämer & Co, and Pool. Mastercraft Union, Tokyo/Japan, info@mastercraftunion.com, www.mastercraftunion.com
Kanuk Light Down In the 1970s, there was only one way to obtain suitable outerwear capable of coping with the harsh climatic conditions in Canada. You had to make the outerwear yourself! In 1974, Louis Grenier founded the Kanuk brand in Québec and chose the snow owl as its trademark and logo. This particular owl lives in the tundra areas and was selected as the official bird of the Canadian region of Québec ten years later. Today, the Kanuk collection boasts a wide variety of styles and colours for jackets and coats, available in eight sizes. The special feature of the down jackets: they are ultra light due to the fact that the down is layered with air. This results in a down fleece in the style of Thindown processing, which ensures that no down feathers can pierce the outer layer of fabric. Alongside style, comfort remains Kanuk’s main focus. Over the years, the brand developed and refined its sewing techniques in order to prevent cold air from entering through the seams. The purchase prices for the high-quality jackets and coats for men and women range from 130 to 260 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.8. All pieces are manufactured in Canada. Torsten Müller’s Room Nine Agency is the brand’s sales representative for the German market. Tennessee Style AB/Kanuk Europe, Nacka/Sweden, T 0046.723.205025, jocke@tennesseestyle.se, www.kanuk.com
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A feast for all senses: Heckmann’s store allows its customers to embark on an expedition.
Hands-on approach: Peter Heckmann put a lot of energy into designing his store himself.
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Do It Yourself. Heckmann Store/Darmstadt. Peter Heckmann has been selling carefully selected premium sportswear in Darmstadt since 1978. After 16 years in the same location, he moved his store for the fourth time in the business’ history. The premises, which he restored with two friends within four weeks, is three times the size of the previous store. He has created a port of call for all demanding design enthusiasts. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Frank Blümler
“I secured the new store by chance. The location is ideal. Opposite our premises one can find a very good bistro, a small flower shop, an old bakery, and a quaint café. All stores located on the pedestrian street are owner-managed too. A long time ago, this building housed a beautiful bookstore with high ceilings and a beautiful interior. I came here quite often with my father in the 1960s and 1970s to buy books”, Peter Heckmann reveals. “I wanted to give this store its soul back, which is why we ripped out the suspended ceilings and returned it to its shell-condition in order to allow us to restore the premises from scratch. It was a nice change from day-to-day business.” Peter Heckmann took care of the entire shop-fitting process himself - from planning to actual execution. “We didn’t want to overstretch our finances, which is why we modified or repaired many product display elements ourselves. For example, we repurposed the lighting system of our previous store. We redesigned it and even converted parts of it to LED technology. We really enjoyed fiddling around with the various components. Ultimately, this
approach is a very sensible form of sustainability.”
on Saturdays in the past and it worked out just fine.”
Back to Old Values
All Senses Required
“Bland pedestrian zones and shop windows covered in ‘Sale’ signs no longer attract the attention of the majority of passers-by. A smaller street with a certain aesthetic and full of real life is not only a joy for our customers, but also for us. We merely placed a small ‘Sale’ sign advertising a 30% discount in our shop window. The sale went down very quietly and only involved a small selection of items. This approach worked very well for us”, Heckmann says. The comparatively limited opening hours - in line with Danish and Swedish traditions - have not scared customers away either. Peter Heckmann explains: “We are open from 10am to 6.30pm. We might - in collaboration with our neighbour - consider re-introducing a ‘late Thursday’, but the Scandinavian model proves that one doesn’t necessarily need unlimited opening hours to be successful. It is becoming increasingly important to spend more time with family and friends, as well as having more time for sports or a good meal. We have closed at 4pm
In addition to fashion for women and men, the store also offers numerous items of vintage furniture. The doorway houses Artifort Groovy Chairs by Pierre Paulin, complemented by pieces by the likes of Eames and Wegener. A stationery department with beautiful pens, as well as a range of cups, glasses, plates, and other artefacts, rounds off the product range nicely. “All these items ensure additional customer frequency. I haven’t experienced anything like it in my almost 40 years in the retail industry. Ever since we started offering all these beautiful items, our customers remain in the store much longer. They look around, marvel at our products, make us compliments for the atmosphere, and praise our product selection. Men, who might have seen our old store as a little too small, have started returning in force too.” Two rosemary saplings, which Heckmann discovered in the florist opposite, have been placed right outside the store. “I never realised what an effect a fragrance has on the customers.
The people enjoy running their palms over the leaves and enjoy the fragrance of the little trees. The flax-orange oil we used for refreshing the store’s furniture is also noticed by many visitors. I used to pay little attention to the olfactory aspect, but today I know how important it is to appeal to all senses of our customers”, Heckmann explains.
Heckmann Store Darmstadt Schulstrasse 5 64283 Darmstadt Germany www.heckmannstore.eu Owner: Peter Heckmann Employees: 3 Re-opening after recent move: 28th of April 2016 Sales area: 110 sqm Brands for women: Armor-Lux, Bellerose, Bsbee, Custom Made, Denham, Gallego Desportes, Leon & Harper, Mads Norgaard, Medwinds, Rabens Saloner, Rains, Ropachica Brands for men: Armor-Lux, Blue de Genes, Breco, East Harbour Surplus, First Pattern, Knowledge Cotton Apparel, Mads Norgaard, Medwinds, Orcival, Poggianti, Universal Works, Vetra Accessories brands: Anokhi, Cooperative de Creation, Deven, Ina Seifart, Kaweco, Serax, Titlee, Werkstadt München Shoe brands: Blue Heeler, Blundstone, Chippewa, Fred de la Bretoniere
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Memories of Lisbon. Blue Sense/Heidelberg. Double passion: for fashion and Portugal. Natalie Nicoletti and Norbert Erhard prove that these two passions can be combined perfectly in their two - soon to be three - Blue Sense concept stores in Heidelberg’s historic Old Town. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Blue Sense/Sabine Arndt
Shining azure blue is combined with distinctive Portuguese wall tiles. The latter are manufactured in a small manufactory in Lisbon. This business also supplies Natalie Nicoletti and Norbert Erhard with ceramics for their Blue Sense concept stores. Customers who wander into the women’s store (opened two years ago) or the men’s store (opened in June) instantly feel like they are on holiday in Lisbon. “Many customers have been to Lisbon in the past or are planning to go there, which triggers very positive emotions”, says Erhard, who manages the stores with Nicoletti, his partner. Both have a long history in the fashion industry. Erhard’s last job was the CEO post at Herrlicher, a denim label. Nicoletti, on the other hand, has 15 years of experience in the fashion retail industry. The two started off as a dream team in private life and soon decided to extend their partnership into the business world as soon as the desire to launch Blue Sense arose. “We both felt that the time was right for this step.” Against All Odds
Now?!? Don’t Nicoletti and Erhard read any trade publications at all? After all, the industry is facing a decline of customer frequency, the exodus of small fashion stores into the mid-price range, and - last, but not least online competition. However, it seems the dynamic duo doesn’t fear any of those factors. “Sure, one has to create customer 416 style in progress
frequency, but the customers reward it when one pursues one’s business with passion. For me, the store is a deliberate anti-thesis to the over-digitalised, rational business world; we are happy to fulfil the customers’ need for real, meaningful conversations and for close - almost amicable - relationships.” This also explains the price range that the two entrepreneurs chose. “Our typical customer visits the store every two to three weeks. One has to make sure that she can afford our fashion in those intervals.” A swift rotation within the product range is essential. This quick turnaround is supported by brands such as Herrlicher, Replay, and Beck Söndergaard, as well as fashion where (in Erhard’s words) “the name on the label makes little difference.” He continues: “In the case of the men’s store, we topped that - not in terms of price, but in terms of product selection. The range includes many craftsmanship-focused items, mainly because men are more open to products with a background story.” Given that the store stocks wines, port, and delicatessen, it is quite hard to define what the so-called takeaway product is - the fashion or all the souvenirs from Portugal? “We don’t earn much by selling wines or special items such as small, wooden model ships, but they thrill our customers. We enjoy the fact that our product selection promotes Portuguese businesses. After all, the country isn’t exactly doing well at the moment.” Erhard
Natalie Nicoletti and her affair of the heart: Blue Sense in Heidelberg.
and Nicoletti have established an office in Lisbon to expand this side of their company and both are on-location every four to six weeks. This dedication pays off, as do the almost weekly events. “Sure, if you stage a wine tasting on a Saturday it means that you might only be able to leave the store at 9pm, but the customers notice and reward such dedication. This is the only way to accomplish what we have achieved within a short period of time. We are in the black and have a high percentage of regular customers.” Erhard explains: “At the end of the day, I am a retailer.” A retailer who has many more ideas in his pipeline. The opening of a third store is already definite and a web shop will follow. Blue Sense wants to allow other retailers to benefit from the Portuguese way of life, especially after Portugal won the European football title.
Blue Sense Concept Store Theaterstrasse 2a 69117 Heidelberg Germany www.bluesense.me Opening: November 2014 (women’s store), June 2016 (men’s store) Owners: Natalie Nicoletti, Norbert Erhard Employees: 3 full-time, 2 part-time Sales area: 75 sqm (women’s store), 70 sqm (men’s store) Brands for women: Blaumax, Herrlicher, Indi & Cold, LangerChen, Second Female Brands for men: Blaumax, Herrlicher, LangerChen, Replay Accessories brands: Beck Söndergaard, Freitag, Grenson, Wolverine
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A third store is in the making to add to the womenswear and menswear stores. Blue Sense is in the black two years in.
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A living room in which customers feel like friends: Dreist is perceived in this manner by many customers.
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A Home. Dreist/Aachen. Rob Kriescher, who was born in the Netherlands, has made Aachen his home. In the process, he also created a “home” for men and women who enjoy buying fashion in a location that is close to their respective hearts. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Dreist
The term “open mic” is a challenge of sorts. Dreist supplies a guitar and amplifier, thereby affording everyone an opportunity to take to the in-store stage. This ensures that the store fills up fairly quickly and the event has caused a ripple effect. Customers who lack musical talent can visit Dreist on a different day and bring along their personal record collection to play in the store. It comes as no surprise that such sessions often lead to an after-hour beer or a dinner. “The citizens of Aachen are getting to know us and are beginning to fall in love with us”, says Rob Kriescher, who fulfilled his dream of owning his own store four years ago. Kriescher decided against opening a store in the Netherlands, mainly because the financial crisis hit his homeland hard. Instead, he decided to venture into the city in which his grandfather was born. Many Avenues
“We stand for heritage, we are hipsters, and we follow many avenues in terms of style. We don’t want to focus on a specific target group in Aachen. Even bikers feel at home in our store. Our core business is the raw denim segment; that’s what everything’s based on”, Kriescher explains. The store stocks authentic and sustainable brands with rich and impressive background stories. It’s a real paradise for “the lads”. Follow-
From 60 to 240 square metres: Dreist recently relocated and is now sufficiently large to adequately showcase its exciting concept.
ing the relocation of the store in its fourth year, Dreist also became attractive for women when it increased its sales area from 60 to 240 square metres. The fact that women are enjoying more attention is also down to the involvement of Rob Kriescher’s sister. She closed down her stores in the Netherlands to focus on her own online store and manage her brother’s women’s department. By adding labels such as MbyM and Minimum to the product range, the store now also stocks brands outside the “heritage dogma”; the more feminine and playful approach has found support swiftly. In Aachen, a student city with a high percentage of male citizens due to the technical nature of most courses on offer, it can happen that the fashion needs of women are overlooked. “We will change that, but we are determined to stay true to our style principles in terms of
women’s fashion”, Rob Kriescher explains. When it comes to fashion advice, he always bases it on what he believes is the perfect wardrobe. “We show our customers how to reinvent their look repeatedly with basics; we don’t want to persuade them to follow short-term trends. We want to help them to compile a solid wardrobe.” It is quite a challenge to keep these solid wardrobes fresh and to supply new purchasing impulses. “How many high-quality raw denim items does a man need? He certainly doesn’t need 15!” That’s why Rob Kriescher does a lot of research online in the hope of finding new brands. Occasionally, he even orders a label in the US and imports the items at his own expense. “We want to be ahead of our time. We need to know today what’s going to happen tomorrow. This allows us to be a fashion-related home for our customers.”
Dreist Wirichsbongardstr. 12 52062 Aachen/Germany www.dreist-ac.de Opening: December 2011 Owner: Robert Kriescher Employees: 2 Sales area: 204 sqm Brands for women: Hannes Roether, Hope, Joah Brown, Lee, MbyM, Minimum, Ruby Tuesday, Schott NYC, Shoto, Red Wing, Wolverine 1000mile, Wrangler, et al… Brands for men: Blaumann Jeans, Blue Blanket Jeans, Blue de Génes, Chippewa, Cruna, Daniele Fiesoli, Denham The Jeanmaker, Deus, Eat Dust, Edwin, Fleurs de Bagne, Fred Perry, Grenson, Hannes Roether, Hope, Indigofera, Lee101, Lightning Bolt, Minimum, Nudie Jeans Co, Penguin, Red Wing, Scarti Lab, Schott NYC, Shoto, Tellason, Thedi Leather, Wolverine 1000mile, Zeha Berlin, et al… Accessories brands: Brooklyn Soap Company, Dettline, Diefenthal und Sohn, Fango Tang, Pig & Hen, Marshall, Ondura, Ottermann, Rough and Loyal, Secrid, Tannergoods, Trico, et al…
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Coming Home. Eibl am Kajetanerplatz/Salzburg. Tanja and Markus Eibl are already the third generation to conduct business successfully in this outermost corner of Salzburg’s historic city centre. They have treated their store to a stylish make-over that matches its target group perfectly. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Eibl
Tanja Eibl is the heart and soul of the store located on Salzburg’s Kajetanerplatz.
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The entire interior can be repositioned without great effort; virtually nothing has a permanent place. Tanja Eibl simply loves redecorating.
The grandfather was a grocer before the mother had the compelling idea to focus the business on fashion. “Today, I have basically returned to her guiding principle; she lived for this absolute customer orientation”, says daughter-in-law Tanja, who represents the third generation of the Eibl clan together with Markus, her husband. “I know exactly what I want, what I need, and what I buy, because I know our customers well”, the Salzburg native explains. She is in the store as often as possible and believes her presence is absolutely essential. The customers have always appreciated her personality. “The renovation of the store has strengthened the entire concept once more and now - after a year - we can say that it was really worth it.” The remodelling was self-planned and self-implemented. The result is perfectly in line with Tanja Eibl’s requirements and style. “It is very restrained and reduced, mainly because I don’t want any cool shop fittings to overshadow
the goods in the eyes of our customers. The focus always has to be on fashion.” The store is now highly customised. Merely one shelf is firmly screwed into position, while everything else can be rearranged according to the prevalent mood. “For example, we get very busy after the sale phase. The four of us spend an entire day pushing things around and clearing space until the store is immaculate and looks fresh again. This also motivates us for the next season and makes us excited about the new goods that have arrived.” Men in particular have profited from the redesign. Generally speaking, men are in the process of developing into the store’s most loyal clientele. “Men are, quite simply put, very loyal. That segment is performing well in our business.” Coming of Age Together
In the course of its history, Eibl was the meeting point for teens and twenty-somethings for many years. Hundreds of pupils
from the local high schools pass by the shop windows on a daily basis. Many who spent their hard-earned pocket money on Replay, Diesel, and - a little later - Miss Sixty jeans back then, still visit the store regularly today. These customers are now grown up, have a sophisticated fashion sense, and have many positive memories. “In Salzburg, customers are not spoilt for choice in the premium segment. That is our niche”, Tanja Eibl highlights. She knows: “A good price-performance ratio is essential. We strive to ensure that our customers don’t need a respirator when they look at the price tags.” The product range is local and sustainable. It includes jewellery by See Me, cosmetics by Be My Friend of Salzburg, and hand-knitted Eibl beanies. These goodies complement brands of mostly European production such as Drykorn, Mason’s, and Closed. Eibl is equally patriotic in terms of her buying strategy. “I believe I can find everything I need at
Salzburg-based fashion agencies. I don’t like buying bits and bobs from each agency. I prefer focusing my budget on the four or five partners with whom I know I work together well. That means I have a corresponding order volume and standing at these partners. In turn, I can be sure that they don’t hang me out to dry if a problem arises.”
Eibl am Kajetanerplatz Schanzlgasse 4 5020 Salzburg Austria www.eibl.or.at Opening: 1972; redesign in 2015 Owner: Markus Eibl Employees: 4 Sales area: 120 sqm Brands for women: Drykorn, Filippa K, Mason’s, Samsoe & Samsoe, Set, Sophie, Supernatural Brands for men: Closed, Drykorn, Filippa K, Fil Noir, Mason’s, Supernatural Accessories brands: Be my Friend, Bloomingville, Erfurt, Komono, Love Letters, Maschalina, Mint Sweden, See Me, Silvie Eder Schmuck
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Robust look: the interior design concept focuses on wood, metal, and linen.
Como Park, a renowned retail design studio, is responsible for the interior design concept.
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Modern Heritage. Oeben’s Mercantile/Utrecht. The members of the Oeben family have been successful merchants since the early 19th century. It therefore comes as no surprise that Thomas Oeben decided to uphold the family tradition by opening Oeben’s Mercantile in Utrecht. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Oeben’s Mercantile
Thomas Oeben has been working in the retail industry since 2002, most recently for a few years as a buyer for a renowned menswear store with branches in Rotterdam and Utrecht. During a beach holiday in Miami - shortly after celebrating his 30th birthday - he made the life-altering decision to open his own store dedicated to a balanced style and brand mix for men.The store boasts a special feature. Oeben raised 10,000 Euros via the crowd funding platform “Crowd About Now” by promising that his concept store will offer the service that is often neglected in our modern world. This add-on acted as an additional capital injection on top of Oeben’s own 80,000 Euro investment budget. The portfolio of Oeben’s Mercantile not only includes real workwear, strong denim, robust boots, subtle sneakers, and durable outerwear, but also a carefully selected range of suits, coats, blazers, shirts, and waistcoats. The aim is to offer the modern man of today the contemporary outfit for his work life and leisure time. The product portfolio is complemented by watches, bow ties and ties, belts, bags, luggage, and Oeben’s private label.
Open Five Hours on Sundays
Utrecht is the fourth largest city in the Netherlands. The city with a central and convenient location is called home by approximately 340,000 people. Residents commute to work in Amsterdam, but - in turn - many young people from Amsterdam come to Utrecht on a daily basis to study at the city’s renowned university, as well as at the music and vocational colleges. Oeben’s Mercantile is located in the direct vicinity of the cathedral in a beautiful little shopping street. The store is surrounded by many other small shops, cafés, and restaurants in the historic Old Town. “As is usual in many cities in the Netherlands, the store is open on Sunday from noon to 5pm, but remains closed on Monday. While the shop is only open until 6pm on Tuesday and Wednesday, one has the possibility to shop until 9pm on Thursday and until 8pm on Friday. On Saturday, Oeben’s Mercantile opens as soon as 10am (not at 11pm as on the other weekdays), but closes at 6pm”, Thomas Oeben explains. The opening hours are both customer and family friendly. The store’s interior design was created by Kenneth Jaworski and
his team at Amsterdam-based Architecture Studio Como Park. Jaworski has designed stores for brands such as Levi’s, Filson, and G.H. Bass, as well as exhibition stands for many other renowned clients. He was also heavily involved in the brand selection process and the concept development phase. “The combination of high-quality materials and a classic look was the main focus while devising the store’s concept. We were eager to ensure that the ‘Look & Feel’ was not ‘used’ or ‘vintage’. Kenneth and I took a close look at many stores and finally I came up with the perfect solution for my own business. Natural materials such as oak wood and linen are combined with a range of dark wall colours to convey a familiar and inviting atmosphere, while the large pictures and photographs highlight the high-end feeling we want to portray”, Thomas Oeben adds.
Thomas Oeben relies on a blend of the classic and modern.
Oeben’s Mercantile Oudkerkhof 34 3512GL Utrecht The Netherlands www.oebens.com Owner: Thomas Oeben Opening: 18th of March 2016 Sales area: 100 sqm Brands for men: AT.P. Co, Arrow, Armor-Lux, Baracuta, Barbour Heritage, Closed, Diadora Heritage, Fumagalli, Gant Rugger, G.H. Bass, Kings of Indigo, Levi’s, Lightning Bolt, Palto, Pike Brothers, Reds, Red Wing Shoes, Tellason, Vanacore Accessories brands: Briston, Etnia Barcelona, Filson, Indigo People, Tanner Goods, Timex
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As straightforward as the fashion with Scandinavian influence - the interior of Misc’s fashion store for men is right on song.
… and Gentlemen. Misc/Salzburg. Michaela Schirlbauer has found the best possible neighbour for Misc, her women’s fashion store: a store exclusively for men. In premises defined by historical basket arches, men can now refine their personal style by adding a touch of Misc. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Misc
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Michaela Schirlbauer has been running a successful women’s fashion store for six years - now she is venturing into the world of men’s fashion.
“The partners of our customers kept on asking why nobody offers the same quality of advice and product range for men”, Michaela Schirlbauer reveals. Her decision to open a fashion store for men was accelerated by the fact that the premises next to her women’s fashion shop became available. “I didn’t feel like having the one-hundredth shop selling Mozart ducks or Christmas decorations as a neighbour”, the entrepreneur laughs in reference to a widespread phenomenon in Salzburg’s historical city centre. Seeing that independent retailers can barely afford the rents in prime locations, the heart of the city is dominated by souvenir shops and the ever-same retail chains. Michaela Schirlbauer has been successfully operating her womenswear business on “Mozartplatz” for no less than six years. Here, the flow of tourists has already thinned out; the location
isn’t even considered high-frequency in terms of locals. Accordingly, Schirlbauer had to work hard to establish a strong base of regular customers. The men’s store follows in the footsteps of the boutique for women. “I believe that word-of-mouth is the only important means of advertising. Enthusiastic customers are the best recommendation I could wish for.” Obviously, she does dabble around a little on Facebook from time to time, but her existing customers are Schirlbauer’s most efficient way to whet the appetite of men for her style. Scandinavian Casual
Schirlbauer travels to Scandinavian countries several times a year in order to ensure that her product range remains distinctive. The trade fairs in Copenhagen are her main source in terms of trends. “I strive to encourage men to turn their back on the classic suit in favour of a more
casual - yet still stylish - wardrobe.” It therefore comes as no surprise that one will never find the classic wool suit in dark blue in the store’s product range. “If it has to be a suit, it should be a suit with a special twist such as short trousers for the summer”, Schirlbauer explains. Nevertheless, the limits are set by the fact that the entrepreneur is fully aware of the city’s conservative style. “Salzburg is definitely not experimental in terms of fashion, but that isn’t my style either. I like it when men are well-dressed and that is our mission.” Schirlbauer prefers to show her customers how to navigate the thin line between “properly dressed” and “cool outfit” in person. Her advice is warm, honest, never pushy, and fully committed. “Comfortable, comfortable, and comfortable that is currently the main motto in terms of men’s fashion. Just take the so-called ‘jogg-jeans’
as an example. They’re all about slipping them on and feeling comfortable. Men don’t like it complicated.” This also implies a comprehensible price structure. “My experience tells me that men don’t really care how much an item costs as long as it is of good quality and they like it in general - naturally under the premise that one can be sure that the store has an adequate price-performance ratio.” It is adequate and there’s so much more…
Misc Fashion Men Mozartplatz 5 5020 Salzburg/Austria www.misc-fashion.at Opening: August 2016 (Women’s fashion store: July 2010) Owner: Michaela Schirlbauer Employees: 5 Sales area: 65 sqm men’s store, 90 sqm women’s store Brands for men: A Fish Named Fred, Anna Kent, NoXs, Sand Accessories brands: Happy Socks, Rever
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Man, Man, Man. Classico Men/Hamburg. A coincidence is the chance convergence of two events. In the case of Classico, several coincidences led to the company’s menswear store. Following the launch of the online shop, Classico has now also opened a stationary store. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: myclassico.com
“That’s what he baited me with - and it seems to have worked”, laughs Lennart Heldmann when talking about the launch of an online shop for menswear under the umbrella of myclassico. It’s never been a secret that Harald Heldmann, his father, wanted his son to take responsibility in the family business after gaining firsthand experience in the fashion industry. It soon became apparent that the new generation would also require a new project in order to avoid being labelled with “the son of” tag. This new project turned out to be an online shop for the “stronger sex”. Lennart Heldmann brought enthusiasm to the table, while Harald Heldmann turned his attention to the abacus. “Our first step was to address our regular customers. After all, 65,000 e-mail addresses and 80,000 active customers in the womenswear segment are invaluable, especially as one has to assume that most of them have partners who they could talk into buying from us”, Harald Heldmann says while explaining the elegant restraint with which the project was introduced to the public little by little. Thereafter, the company ignited a firework of digital communication measures including social media, advertising on Google, and every other channel that enhances traffic at the online shop. 416 style in progress
Father and son: Lennart and Harald Heldmann present Classico Men, their latest project.
Room for the New
It soon became clear that the online shop would benefit from a stationary store. “As luck would have it, a colleague planning to give up his store approached me on the street”, Harald Heldmann reveals. He started calculating once again and the numbers spoke for themselves. Within a short period of time, a sign reading “Classico Men” was hung up above the entrance to an address wellknown to male fashion enthusiasts. It may only be 65 square metres small, but it’s a start. At the same time, the company also opened a womenswear branch directly opposite. In the language of entrepreneurs, this is termed generating synergy effects. The father-son team also generates certain synergy effects of its own. Lennart Heldmann: “We think differently in terms
of fashion, which is beneficial for our product range. While my father tends to order more classic products, I try to adapt to new trends as early as possible.” When asked about the objectives for the new menswear business, both men speak of reach, visibility, and competence. “The premium segment harbours quite an interesting niche. It’s a segment that was previously not served optimally both online and offline”, Harald Heldmann analyses. “Nevertheless, I don’t think we can call ourselves a menswear retailer just yet. The womenswear segment always was - and remains - our main focus.” The son nods in agreement as his father utters these words. However, the son is adamant that he is eager to promote his first project within the company with all the motivation he can muster.
Classico Men Grosse Bleichen 36 20354 Hamburg Germany www.myclassico.com/men Owner: Harald Heldmann Opening: July 2016 Employees: 3 Sales area: 65 sqm Brands for men: 0039 Italy, 7 For all Mankind, AG Jeans, Aglini, Alpha Industries, Baracuta, Barbour, Baronio, Belstaff, BLK Denim, Blonde No. 8, C.P. Company, Canada Goose, Canadian Classics, Closed, Colmar Originals, Como No. 1, Daniele Fiesoli, Deus Ex Machina, Drakewood, Drykorn, Dstrezzed, DU4, Goosecraft, Gran Sasso, Hannes Roether, Harris Wharf London, Hartford, Heldmann, IQ+ Berlin, Jacob Cohen, Kiefermann, Majestic Filatures, Mason’s, Matchless, MC2 Saint Barths, MMX Germany, Myths, Oakwood, Paltó, Parajumpers, Phil Petter, Post & Co, Q1, Rag & Bone, Samsoe & Samsoe, Save the Duck, Schott NYC, The Kooples, Todd Snyder x Champion, Wood Wood, Wool & Co Accessories brands: Anderson’s, Antica Cuoieria, Briston, Burlington, Buttero, Cowboysbag, Diadora Heritage, Diemme, Ecco x The Last Conspiracy, Espandrji l’originale, Falke, Fausto Colato, Filling Pieces, Fracap, Gino B., Grenson, Gum, H by Hudson, Kapten & Son, Kolmyo, Le Cord, Le Specs, n.d.c. Made by Hand, Miansai, Moma, National Standard, Native Union, Philippe Audibert, Philippe Model, Pig & Hen, Puma, Reptile’s House, Sandqvist, Superga, Taschen, TeNeues, The Last Conspiracy, The White Briefs, Umschau, Voile Blanche
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The best of the best in a small space: Classico Men taps into the premium segment, where it has already secured an indisputable standing in the womenswear market.
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Complete. Apropos The Concept Store/Hamburg. Following the enlargement of the store for women in Cologne, the luxury fashion retailers Daniel Riedo and Klaus Ritzenhöfer have opened their second store in Hamburg. The store, which is in close proximity of the Alster river, is dedicated to men’s fashion. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Apropos The Concept Store
Seven stores in Hamburg, Munich, Cologne, and Düsseldorf prove the track record of Daniel Riedo and Klaus Ritzenhöfer.
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The architects Rodolphe Parente and Benjamin Liatoud, as well as Architekturbüro Unzen, were given no limits: exclusive materials and selected design objects are combined with bold colours and special features such as a fully mirrored dressing room.
It seems there is no end to the expansion process. After the main store in Cologne was extended by 100 square metres, Daniel Riedo and Klaus Ritzenhöfer turned their attention to Hamburg once more. Their store for women (Neuer Jungfernstieg 16) now has a “little brother” dedicated to men’s fashion merely ten house numbers up the road. “We have identified untapped potential in Hamburg in the designer segment for men”, Ritzenhöfer says while explaining the expansion plans of the company. The network of Apropos thus comprises six concept stores in Cologne (2), Düsseldorf, Munich, and Hamburg (2), as well as a Gucci franchise store in Cologne. On an area of 250 square metres, the demanding clientele of Hamburg can browse through the proven special mix of the concept store chain. In addition to fashion by brands such as Balenciaga and Gucci, the store also boasts selected interior and grooming
products. “It is a menswear store for all the senses that has, up until now, not existed in this form in Hamburg”, a company statement reads. Room for Growth
The wealthy clientele of Hamburg can certainly not complain about a lack of choice. Nevertheless, Apropos The Concept Store plugs a gap in the Hanseatic city. The owners, Klaus Ritzenhöfer and Daniel Riedo, stress that they brought “the best international menswear brands” from their designer range to Hamburg. The store that the two entrepreneurs chose for this expansion step was formerly occupied by Rena Lange. It is fortunate that Apropos The Concept Store, an independent multi-brand retailer, moved into the premises. No matter whether you look at Tesla, Nespresso, or - most recently - Lidl’s pop-up store on “Neuer Wall”, it is has become increasingly rare to find fashion retailers in
the city’s luxury locations. The high rental fees, which conglomerates tend to declare as a marketing expense, can barely be generated by independent fashion retailers. The landscape of mono-label stores, which can be found all over the globe, is very rarely penetrated by individual concepts these days. It is therefore all the more gratifying that Apropos The Concept Store heeded the call of its customers. Henning Korb, the head buyer and managing director of the Hamburg branch, explains: “There are already very beautiful haberdasheries out there; they are all well-run and functioning businesses. However, there was, until now, no concept store for men. This was not only proven by the countless men who visited our women’s store in the hope of finding a men’s department like the one in our stores in Cologne, Düsseldorf, or Munich, but also by the feedback we received from producers. Here in Hamburg, we started
with exactly the same designer range we already offer in Cologne, Düsseldorf, and Munich. I believe that proves that there was a gap in the market that we have now plugged.” There are currently no plans for further expansion in Hamburg or in any of the other cities, according to the two owners: “Now we are complete.”
Apropos The Concept Store Neuer Jungfernstieg 6 20354 Hamburg Germany www.apropos-store.com Opening: July 2016 Owners: Daniel Riedo, Klaus Ritzenhöfer Managing director: Henning Korb Brands for men: Balenciaga, Fendi, Gucci, John Varvatos, Moncler, OffWhite, Saint Laurent, Thom Browne, Valentino Accessories brands: Aqua di Parma, Assouline, Christian Louboutin, Cire Trudon, Fornasetti, John Derian, L’Objet, Manolo Blahnik
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Excellent advice, outstanding brands, and an extravagant ambience - the perfect mix of the Sailor & Harbour concept is a hit with the customers.
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Starting Over. Sailor & Harbour/Bremerhaven. After leaving Stiesing, a Bremen-based traditional retailer, Harm Hesterberg thought long and hard about his plans for the future. In the end, he decided to stick to his trade: retailing textiles and other beautiful items. He opened his new store in the Mediterraneo shopping centre next to the Weser estuary. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Sailor & Harbour
Starting over at 51 years of age sounds like risky business. Harm Hesterberg decided to take the plunge. Together with a trainee, he decided to open his own store in a new city. “We want our customers to rediscover what a real shopping experience is. The idea is to create a good atmosphere, trigger emotions, and communicate the enjoyment of an excellent fashion culture.” His inspirational trips often lead him into the Flemish region of Belgium. “There are many good stores in Flanders. In that region, retailers skilfully combine interior and textile design. The portfolio is complemented with food and delicacies”, Hesterberg explains. He chose a similar setup for his Sailor & Harbour store. Even now, shortly after the grand opening, he is already thinking about an extension of the interior concept in adjacent premises. North Sea Coast with Fair-Weather Guarantee
The so-called “Havenwelten” form a maritime district in the area of the Old Harbour and the New Harbour of Bremerhaven. The seaside town has approximately 120,000 inhabitants. The reason why Hesterberg chose a location in a shopping centre is that the mall is a little different than most of its kind.
The Mediterraneo boasts more than 40 specialised retailers and numerous restaurants. The heart of the centre is a central piazza under a large glass dome. Mediterranean terraces with views of the harbour afford visitors the opportunity to sunbathe when the weather is nice. “The ‘Havenwelten’ is a unique project. Bremerhaven has undergone significant structural change and still has a very healthy middle class. Moreover, the wind power industry and the marine research department at the Fraunhofer Institute have made the location more attractive”, Hesterberg explains. Star chef Steffen Heumann runs Pier 6, his restaurant, in the immediate vicinity. Goods with Value
Alongside a few larger, carefully selected preferred suppliers such as Drykorn, Hackett, Parajumpers, and Stone Island, the product portfolio of Sailor & Harbour mainly focuses on smaller brands in order to act as an ambassador for products with sustainable life cycles. “A brand like Stone Island has convinced with continuity over decades. The family-run business is very healthy and offers top products for medium-sized companies at a high quality level all over the world. There is no goods-related
New start - Harm Hesterberg has decided to operate in the fashion retail trade for a second time.
pressure, no overproduction, and no outlet - it’s a joy to conduct good business with such partners”, Harm Hesterberg says. However, he believes bringing people together is even more important: “While we are compiling outfits for our customers, we offer their entourage coffee specialities at our small bar and offer children an opportunity to browse through a selection of Tintin comics. For one of the next of our regular madeto-measure appointments we are planning an event on an old two-masted sailing ship. We’ll sail out to sea with our customers and spend a nice day. We want to have fun, but - of course - we also hope to make some money.” In this context: Ship ahoy and may there always be enough water under the keel!
Sailor & Harbour 8East GmbH & Co. KG Am Längengrad 12 27568 Bremerhaven/ Germany www.sailorharbour.de Employees: 6 Opening: 26 March 2016 Sales area: 300 sqm Brands for women: 5Units, 7 For all Mankind, 81Hours, Anokhi, Antonym, Au soleil, Alessandro Gherardini, B-Belt, Beck Söndergard, Blonde Nr.8, Brasi & Brasi, Candice Cooper, Debby Debot, Don`t cry Milan, DooWoop, Il Mondo il Mio, Le Crown, Lost in Albion, Lucky 9, Miss Goodlife, Manymal, Parajumper, Rains, Rehard, Rose & Rose, Save the Duck, Superdry, Shirts 4 Life, S.W.O.R.D, Temptation Positano, The Jacksons Brands for men: Bespoke by Sailor, Bleu de Gene, Broska, Deus, Dressler, Fashion Helmet, Filson, Fil Noir, Hackett, Hiltl, Jim & Judi, Kreis, Lovet & Green, Nagano, Nudie, Parajumpers, S4, Save the Duck, Superdry, Superga, Stone Island, Thurston, van Laack
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088 EDITOR'S LETTER /// ABOUT US
Keep Your Story Straight! Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at
Do you know “Lisa and Lena”? You don’t? In a way, you may actually be missing out on a lesson in attention economics, storytelling, and “Clash of Cultures” (but not in the sense of Huntington). So here goes: Lisa and Lena are 14-year-old twins from Baden-Württemberg who have turned into what one generally calls an “Internet phenomenon” by posting short clips in which they and dance and move their lips in synchronicity to song lyrics. They have 5 million followers on Instagram and 10 million subscribers on the “musical.ly” app. What might leave many perplexed is easily explained. The two girls are pretty, modern, and stylish. This makes them excellent role models and reflection surfaces - a fact which they take advantage of quite aggressively. They are - in a way - quite old-school. Ultimately, this is the same concept as the Olsen twins. It may be a smaller format, but it follows the laws of the digital revolution. The fact that this alienates many of us and even makes us shake our heads in disbelief doesn’t matter one bit. There have always been youth phenomena that parents have not understood or even rejected. In a way, these phenomena are very important. The blurring boundaries between adolescents and grown-up professional youths are, at the end of the day, very unhealthy. However, 5 million Instagram followers trigger covetousness. This is the moment when a fairly innocent hype suddenly transforms into a hardhitting business model. This process is completely legitimate too, by the way. Lisa and Lena - or their parents and/or management - would be pretty foolish if they failed to monetise the huge popularity. This is where the aforementioned “Clash of Cultures” comes into play. Even though many will disagree, I believe that these 15 second 416 style in progress
Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott
clips, which I find hard to understand, are a kind of subculture. And the core element of every subculture is authenticity. Buzzword alert! The sensorium of this (or almost every) target group whether the supplied content is at eye-level or not is much more pronounced than marketing strategists may expect. In this context, it is irrelevant whether the content is bought or sponsored. The issue is whether the content matches the background story - on a reciprocal level. Should, for example, Hugo Reversed believe that the exorbitant follower count is a sufficient argument to capitalise on the virtual popularity of two cheerful teenagers, then this is nothing more than a misunderstanding. Now we have reached the point when one needs to mention the short, mediahyped liaison between Brioni and Justin O’Shae. In this particular case, the story simply didn’t fit at all, even if convention breaks and contradictions seem so exciting. An old-fashioned, exclusive steak house cannot change its course by appointing the hottest vegan food-blogger as the new chef - at least not if it wants to earn money by selling steaks in the future. The ridicule the smart “It-Bad-Boy” had to endure was both expected and cheap. At the end of the day, Kering, the owner of Brioni, has to take all the blame for this particular misunderstanding. Either Kering didn’t understand the positioning of the Brioni brand, or it didn’t have the courage and patience to see through a completely new positioning. The lesson we should all learn from this: Keep your story straight! Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at
Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner-Seybold martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Isabel Faiss Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Quynh Tran Photographers Trent McMinn Illustrator Claudia Meitert Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach
Next issue 12 January 2017
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