style in progress 1.15 EN

style in progress

#1/2015

Listen to the Gut Feeling Department!

Sven Hansen. Stephan Schneider. Conleys.

Surfeit kills desirability. The fashion industry needs to kick its anabolic steroids habit /// Too much and too little. Have we lost our balance? /// Courage instead of fear. Breaking free from the downward spiral with new ideas /// Come on now! We need more specialised retailers!

â‚Ź 6.90

Zukunft braucht Herkunft.

Visit us at…

Pitti Uomo 13.01. – 16.01.2015 Florenz – Fortezza Da Basso Floor: Padiglione Centrale – Piano Attico Stand: F/10

PREMIUM Berlin 19.01. – 21.01.2015 Berlin – Station Berlin Meindl Vintage Racing: Halle 3, Stand H3 – A 21 Meindl Authentic Luxury: Halle 4, Stand H4 – B 29

www.meindl-fashions.de

Berg Romanze Eine schicksalhafte Begegnung mit Chic und Funktionalität. Ăœberall da, wo es besondere Mode gibt.

luistrenker.com

006 editorial

More or Less?

Welcome to these lines.

Opinions, orientation, and background stories - that’s what you rightfully expect from style in progress. The basis for meeting these expectations is formed by intensive - and often controversial - discussions with representatives of all levels of the fashion industry, so discussions with you, dear readers. For the main focus of this edition - namely the issue of what we need more and less of - we could have asked hundreds of people for their valued opinions. The enthusiasm, commitment, and sincerity with which the selected interviewees (Too much. Too little, from page 090) addressed this core question are truly impressive. The answers are even more impressive. Concentrated intelligence, unsparing outspokenness, and sincere criticism pave the way forward.

Even though nobody can claim to know where this path will lead us, these interviews make it easy to predict who will lead the way with determination.

It is a privilege to be constantly inspired by such great conversation partners. Conleys’ Sven Hansen and Stephan Schneider certainly are no exception (The Longview, from page 072). Their desire to be different and to be successful in a different way is

reflected in every fibre of their company. Did they seriously hire a screenwriter to write their product descriptions? The two heads of this mail order specialist prove that the courage to make unconventional decisions can pay off handsomely.

Nicoletta Schaper once again shows that she has the courage to make unconventional statements in her opinion piece (We Need More Specialised Retailers!, from page 084). Her theory does sound a little crazy in times defined by decreasing sales and customer frequency. However, it’s not crazy at all! Read for yourself.

Ina Köhler’s article about near shoring (Design Global - Produce Local, from page 128) proves that, in a globalised world, everything is connected in some way or another. She describes the opposite trend to outsourcing to distant (and cheap) production facilities, because fashion that needs to be re-ordered swiftly or delivered at shorter notice simply cannot be shipped around the world for weeks. This development has led to the renaissance of European production structures and allows Mediterranean countries to take centre stage. In Casablanca (“Here’s Looking at You, Kid!”, from page 131), our author visited a sourcing fair.

The trade show topic is certainly defined by both success and failure. We certainly don’t want to join in the swan song about the Bread & Butter. With all due respect to opinions, orientation, and background stories, Stephan Huber’s opinion piece (Dear Karl-Heinz, from page 014) expresses the sentiment of our entire editorial staff on this topic.

Enjoy your read!

Your style in progress team

Cover Photo: Timmo Schreiber

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Sundance Jacket

distributed by WP

Down Sweater Jacket

Paolo Ventura for WoolrichArt shop on line woolrich.eu

008 CONTENT

OPINION PIECE 014 Dear Karl-Heinz What there is to say about the Bread & Butter…

THE LONGVIEW 072 "It's Easy to be Boring" Conleys masterminds Sven Hansen and Stephan Schneider on unconventional success models 072

WHAT’S THE STORY LESS/MORE 080 Withdrawal instead of Overdose An opinion piece by Stephan Huber 084 We Need More Specialised Retailers!

A plea for those who know what they’re doing 088 “Shopping Needs to be an Experience” Six million for the remodelling of the menswear department?

Ludwig Beck chairman Christian Greiner explains why such a move is sustainable 090 Too much. Too little.

More than 30 intelligent answers to the fundamental question 112 Do! Me! A Deal!

Risks and side effects of reducing prices too early 120 Less is More - The Same Applies to Turnover Why resource conservation makes perfect sense

084

126 “Fashion Consumers Will Look at Fast Fashion Brands Like They Look at McDonald’s” Redress’ Christina Dean fights for sustainability in the fashion industry 128 Design Global – Produce Local More short-term collections and immediate orders?

Sourcing in Europe suddenly makes sense again 131 “Here‘s looking at you, Kid!“ Mediterranean countries profit from the near-shoring trend 132 “Buy Less - Buy Better” Florian Craen on artificial scarcity and genuine shortage at Hermès 136 Exchange of Goods - Win/Win or Bad Business?

Are goods exchanges making us lazy and stupid?

Four industry representatives have their say

139 Gold Rush The vintage brand Smith’s American turns Michela Goldschmied into a fashion designer 112

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140 Global Expansion WP Lavori is guiding Woolrich to international success

010 CONTENT

142 Trends at the Push of a Button Pronto Moda made beautiful: Atos Lombardini proves that speed counts 143 Unmistakable How to establish yourself in no more than seven years: the shoe brand Candice Cooper 148

144 Full Steam Ahead More than suitable for the sales floor: Minimum

FASHION 148 Denim is sexy 156 Talking to the Clouds

IN STORE 164 The Grand Entrance Braun/Hamburg 166 House of Superlatives Hirmer/Munich 168 Affair of the Heart ZoĂŠ/Hamburg 170 Radiant Mix & Match Temple Brian & Barry/Milan 156

172 Emerging from the Shadows Beck/Munich 174 For Personal Reasons Set & Sekt/Basel 176 Shopping Experience with Future Uzwei/Hamburg 178 Bavarian Lifestyle Grasegger/Garmisch-Partenkirchen 180 The Ego Hans/Berlin 182 Three Style Experts and One Design Icon AP&CO/Zurich

164

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STANDARDS 006 EDITORIAL 016 RIGHT NOW 060 WANT IT 184 EDITOR'S LETTER /about us

Lucky de Luca

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19 - 21 Jan » HALLE 3 | A27

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www.luckydeluca.com

014 Opinion piece

Dear Karl-Heinz!

On the evening of the 15th of July 2001, I had the pleasure of enjoying a beer with you in the basement of the legendary “Eckiger Rundbau” in Cologne. The first Bread & Butter - Offshow for Selected Brands was about to close its doors after three truly amazing and exciting days. People in high spirits were scurrying through the corridors and over the staircases. Some of them were dancing and at that time one was still allowed to smoke indoors too. The mood was relaxed, characterised by a positive form of exhaustion. You were fairly exhausted too, but inwardly happy. Somehow it was implicitly clear: This is the future! This blend of emotions, community, and pioneering spirit was the answer to the gradual decline of the classic trade show. It was the active antidote against the spreading poison of boredom. What happened after is legendary today. The small off-show with 50 exhibitors grew into the most important trend-setter and initiator of the entire fashion industry.

I personally attended all 28 Bread & Butter shows. It may sound a little dramatic, but the event became an integral part of my life rhythm. I can, off the top of my head, think of countless experiences and anecdotes that are both directly and indirectly connected with the Bread & Butter. I wouldn’t want to miss a single one of them. I am convinced that a lot of people feel the same as I do. This January, I will fly to Berlin with a huge lump in my throat. I will miss the Bread & Butter on a very personal level. Sure, you also made mistakes. I am sure you are quite aware of that yourself. Your greatest strength, namely the courage to pursue ideas that may seem a little crazy at first glance, was also your greatest weakness.

Who dares a lot, does not always win. Real life isn’t a Hollywood movie. I have no intention of using this forum to analyse the reasons yet again; the whole situation turned into a High Mass for smart arses and self-declared experts. I would rather like to thank you from the bottom of my heart for: the excellent business I was able to make at and with the Bread & Butter! countless exciting, inspiring, and poignant contacts and discussions! the confidence and community spirit that the Bread & Butter instilled in the fashion industry… at least for quite a while! a hell of a lot of fun, awesome parties, and rock & roll in general! your generosity as a host! your unwavering loyalty and friendship!

Long may you run, dear Karl-Heinz!

Yours truly, Stephan 115 style in progress

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RIGHT NOW Displays local flavour and serves as the blueprint for further stores - Floris van Bommel’s first own store in Germany.

Floris van Bommel

Cologne Blueprint Closed is planning further growth in cooperation with its retail partners.

Closed

A Sensational Feeling “Closed remains Closed - only better”, says Til Nader,

the head of sales and marketing at Closed. Last October, Detlev Meyer, one of the two CBR founders, joined the Closed advisory board as a fourth partner. The investment company Genui, in which Meyer is one of the investors, supplied the Hamburg-based company with growth capital. “Detlev Meyer has a sensational feeling for the market ”, Nadler explains. “We are thrilled to have found someone who is capable of supporting our continued - also international – growth, and who also has strategic knowledge of the fashion business.”

Closed is eager to achieve the desired growth primarily in cooperation with retail partners, for example via franchising concepts. “Wholesale is and remains our strongest, and therefore most important, channel; we depend heavily on the specialised retail trade”, Nadler says. Currently, Closed supplies approximately 1,200 points of sale worldwide, including no less than 35 mono-label stores. The brand launches four women’s wear and menswear collections per year, complemented by smaller flash programmes. The primary goal is to supply the retail industry with the right goods at the right time. www.closed.de

The cathedral city of Cologne is truly exemplary, even for Dutch companies like Floris van Bommel. In this city, the shoe brand opened its first own flagship store in Germany on 9 October 2014. However, this is merely the start with more stores to follow. Commercial director Pepijn van Bommel: “In the coming years, we want to open approximately six own stores in Germany’s most important cities.” Cologne was chosen due to its proximity to the Floris van Bommel headquarters in Moergestel. Located in the “Ehrenstrasse”, in the vicinity of brands such as Adidas Originals, Diesel, Replay, and True Religion, the shoe brand has created a 135 square metre store. It is characterised by an industrial look with glass, steel, wood, and concrete elements, but also boasts many humorous details that are so typical for the style of Floris van Bommel. These small details, such as the sales counter with the “Transport yourself” claim and a portrait of the Dutch royal couple, were developed in cooperation with Agentur Wink.

While the store includes photographs of regional institutions such as “Kölner Kickerliga”, it is also the blueprint for future branches in Germany. The shop debuts a few women’s models on the German market. The women’s range on display includes high heels and sandals, as well as a special edition to mark the company’s 280th anniversary. www.florisvanbommel.com

Front man Campino models the limited “Die Toten Hosen” edition of the MA-1 bomber jacket by Schott NYC.

Schott NYC

Jackets for Dead Trousers Back in the good old days, musicians from bands like “The Sex Pistols”, “The Ramones”, and “The Clash” wore the jackets made by New York-based brand Schott. Everybody knows the black “Perfecto” biker jacket that was made famous by Marlon Brando and subsequently worn by countless rock & roll style icons. Now the legendary German punk rock band “Die Toten Hosen” has joined this tradition. After “Die Hosen” were supplied with Schott NYC items during their last tour titled “Der Krach der Republik”, the band has now launched the first official collaboration project targeted at the German market. In close cooperation with the band members, Schott NYC has developed a “Die Toten Hosen” bomber jacket. The black MA-1 pilot’s jacket is adorned with two embroidered patches depicting the band logo on the chest and shoulder, as well as a stylised “Bone Eagle”. Campino, the singer and front man of the German punk band, wears the jacket, which is limited to 1,000 items, on the cover of the 20th anniversary issue of the “Rolling Stone” magazine. This fine jacket is available in the merchandising online store at www.dietotenhosen.de. A small batch is also available at Robert Schmitz, a cult shop in the old town of Düsseldorf, the hometown of “Die Toten Hosen”. www.schottnyc.com

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Joop

Made to Move

This Joop special edition, a range that was first introduced last autumn and is due to release its second collection in this spring/summer season, lives up to its name. Its trendy business look, consisting of coats, blazers, shirts, trousers, and belts, is a must-have for every travelling manager. Excellent wearing comfort and innovative high-tech fabrics are aimed at a young, dynamic target group that highly values innovation and flexibility. The idea was inspired by the dynamics and precision of a parkour runner, which is why the brand utilises highly functional stretch materials. Details such as taped seams give the items a fashionable, avant-garde twist. The Joop special edition can be purchased in all Joop brand stores worldwide, the Joop store in Düsseldorf, and via the online shop. www.joop.com

More dynamic Joop’s special edition “Made to Move” livens up the menswear segment.

Cinque

Let’s Celebrate

Modern sales assistance for retailers and agents - Alberto recently launched the “Alberto Pants Pilot”.

Alberto

Last October, the Cinque brand opened a new 215 square metre store in Berlin’s Mall of Berlin, which is located at “Leipziger Platz 12”. 23 metres of shop windows and a room height of five metres allow for the generous presentation concept developed by Umdasch Shopfitting. The design of the new store is in line with the two existing Cinque branches in Düsseldorf and Oberhausen. All three stores were featured with special promotions in cooperation with the event agency Kollektiv K. For example, the Düsseldorf-based store staged the “Vogue Fashion Night Out” in September. The event impressed with a band, dance floor, and an excellent atmosphere, as well as finger food, cocktails, and a souvenir photo. Other events to celebrate the Cinque Celebration collection followed in November and December, with high-class sparkling wine and a limited edition of so-called Celebration Shirts, which were designed by students of the Fashion & Design Academy, as well as a competition with prizes ranging from a weekend in Milan to Cinque shopping vouchers. Cinque currently has 800 customers in Germany and seven partner stores in cities such as Kiev, Prague, and Bruges, as well as 300 points of sale all over the globe. www.cinque.de

App and Away!

Apart from many years of experience and perfect craftsmanship, the pants brand Alberto is characterised by technological innovation and a fine sense for trends. The newest result of the label’s continuous evolution is an interactive application for trading partners and agents. All one needs to do is scan the barcode of the pants’ label with a smart-phone or tablet. The app will instantly supply all important details and selling points of the item in question, as well as additional information about the brand from the Lower Rhine region. Furthermore, Alberto encourages its retailers and agents to contribute actively to the app. If you share ten personal selling points with your colleagues, the brand will reward you with a free pair of trousers. The label’s YouTube channel is also integrated into the so-called “Alberto Pants Pilot”. The app can be downloaded free of charge for iOS and Android devices via iTunes and Google Play. www.alberto-pants.com

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The new Cinque store in Berlin complements the trio of brand-managed branches.

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An Italian in Hamburg 0039 Italy took up residence at "Grosse Bleichen" at the end of November.

0039 Italy

Ciao Amburgo!

After opening shops in Berlin, Munich, Paris, and Florence, 0039 Italy decided to enrich the Hamburg fashion landscape at the end of November. “Grosse Bleichen” is a well chosen location that sensibly extends the Italian label’s sphere. For 2015, the brand is planning to open partner stores in Los Angeles, Marrakesh, and Biarritz. The expansion of own sales areas is also progressing well. The improvement of the brand’s shop capacity led to the twentieth EDI sales floor in 2014. “We are always open to new shop and store partners and are full of enthusiasm”, says Bernadette Pfefferer, the head of sales. In addition, the floor

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philosophy was successfully implemented with three delivery cycles, each with a harmonious colour theme. The success of these three delivery windows per season is now also implemented in the wholesale business. An extensive NOS programme with more than 20,000 blouses flanks the sales floor capacity of 0039 Italy and offers the customers the opportunity to directly access items via a B2B area, which was set up in November 2014. In addition to the main collection, 0039 Italy customers also have the option to order the high-end LAB collection, which stands for eye-catching cuts and attention to detail. www.0039italy.com

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G-Lab

Redefining Seasons

The delivery of the first spring/summer collection of 2015 marked G-Lab’s successful market launch. The sales targets were met before the order season closed and were actually exceeded significantly. Björn Gericke, the founder and managing director of G-Lab, believes this was an important step towards the further development of the collection: “In times when we will need to completely redefine seasons in the future, we see the multi-functional properties of our jackets as an absolute asset, both for the consumer and the retail industry. Our jackets are not too warm or cold, but provide well thought through and sophisticated functionality all year round. In contrast to classic down jackets, our jackets, with their breathable, wind and water repellent features, are perfectly suited for all urban weather conditions, from minus 20° to plus 15° degrees Celsius. The international expansion of G-Lab is also progressing. With the start of the autumn/winter season of 2015/16, the brand will enter countries such as Sweden, Italy, and Great Britain with new distributors and agents. At the upcoming trade fairs, G-Lab will present a new stand and completely reworked product presentation concept. It will be showcased over January and February 2015 at the Premium in Berlin, the Revolver in Copenhagen, the Liberty in Las Vegas, and the Modefabriek in Amsterdam. www.g-lab.com

G-Lab offers well thought through functionality all year round.

Wild look - the length and the natural growth of the furs determine the look of jackets and coats by Marlino.

Marlino

Just Leave it!

“Inspired by nature - as it has grown” is the motto on which designer Melanie Nienaber and CEO Dirk Nienaber have based Marlino, a jacket brand that was founded in 2009. To this end, they use shearling leather and fur, which is procured from animals that live in the wild and are exposed to the elements at all times. For the new designs of the upcoming collection, the duo from Munich has started to experiment with prints on rabbit fur, sprayed vintage effects, and the combination of different materials. What is especially striking is the original edge shape that gives many items a very individual look, as well as the exceptionally high processing quality. The successful combination of knitted materials and leather without warps is the result of careful craftsmanship.

The Nienabers scoured Turkey for a long time before they found the perfect production facilities.

The collection for autumn/winter 2015/16 does not only include jackets, vests, and coats made of leather, fur, and rabbit knit, but also classic parkas with fur lining, as well as a small range of accessories like hats, loop scarves, and gloves. The purchasing prices for the shearling coats range from 289 to 739 Euros. www.marlino.de

Milestone specialises in ultra-light jacket models.

Milestone

The Art of Lightness

The jacket specialist Milestone concluded the spring/summer 2015 sales season with an increase of 20% compared to last year, which can be seen as a highly positive start into the new season. One of the biggest contributors was the lightness theme in the female outerwear and menswear collections, which is what the brand will continue to focus on in the upcoming autumn/winter season. It hopes that its transition jackets and four-season models will prove to be the right reaction to current market demands. There has also been a positive change within the team. Milestone hired Tatjana Doldinger as the new designer for the female outerwear textile business. www.milestone-jackets.com

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CG – Club of Gents

Top Model Under Contract

For the campaigns in 2015, CG - Club of Gents once again teams up with photo model and dress man Brad Koenig.

The 35 year old, who was discovered by Karl Lagerfeld, has already worked for Chanel, Roberto Cavalli, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, and Wolfgang Joop; he was long considered to be the most sought after and best paid male model in the world. The upcoming CG - Club of Gents collection for autumn/winter 2015 introduces quite a few innovations and highlights, as product manager Andreas Schimon explains: “Our successful modular ‘mix & match’ system now includes a new, authentic Smoking Style, which can be worn for special occasions, to balls, and at parties. Our core products such as suits and sports jackets work extremely well, especially due to new fabric styles with structures like piqué, jersey, and jacquard. We have further developed our autumn/winter 2015 collection and basically reinvented the classic sports jacket from scratch. On the one hand we have the more masculine look that focuses on a young sports jacket style with a casual, yet nevertheless smart and athletic, flair. Real highlights are the wonderful patchwork designs and degradé looks. The products are less loud and more subtle, but nonetheless always innovative. The colour chart is dominated by dark denim tones, highlighted by shades like olive, grey, and dark red. We now offer more three-part suits. Sports jackets, vests, and trousers are characterised by minimal designs and structures. The tendency towards closely fitting lapels, especially for suits, is increasingly important in the coming season. The new C-torso and a fashionable super-slim silhouette will be the absolute winners.” www.cg-club-of-gents.com

Opening night party in Shanghai - Marc O’Polo launched its ambitious expansion for China with the grand opening of its first store in the country.

Marc O’Polo

Arrival in the Middle Kingdom

Towards the end of August last year, Marc O’Polo opened its first brand store in Shanghai, thereby launching its ambitious expansion plans for the Chinese market. The 250 square metre store, located in the highend Global Harbor Mall in the Putuo district, showcases the brand’s women’s and men’s collections, as well as the shoe range. The results over the first few months have met the expectations of the management for this highly complex market. “Our first experiences in China are still difficult to assess, mainly because the turnover is generally weaker at the start, but it is within our expectations nevertheless”, says Alexander Gedat, the CEO of Marc O’Polo. Under his stewardship, the company from the Bavarian town of Stephanskirchen has already secured contracts for four additional stores in China. These include a second branch in Shanghai, as well as first stores in Shengdu, Tianjin, and Beijing. “We want to evaluate the optimal product range to appeal to the Chinese consumers”, Alexander Gedat summarises the main goal. The long-term strategy for China is already clear: “We believe this market has enormous potential. Currently we are planning to open another 100 branches in China over the next five years.” www.marc-o-polo.de

Aco’s Michael Schulz (right) and Select Trading’s Bernard Waage are eager to take advantage of synergy effects.

Aco & Select GmbH

Foundations

A strong team - CG - Club of Gents and dress man Brad Koenig (front middle).

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So far the fashion agencies Aco Germany and Select Trading Germany were focused on the medium to high-end premium segment, but the two companies have decided to launch a truly unique cooperation as of autumn/winter 2015. “We have decided to team up to build a broader customer base for the younger and price-sensitive fashion segment. Both agencies are currently not represented in that particular market, which we expect to have a lot of potential”, says Michael Schulz, the chief executive of Aco Germany. To achieve this, Michael Schulz and his counterpart at Select Trading, Bernard Waage, have founded a joint venture named Aco & Select GmbH. The new company will handle the German distribution of Gas Jeans, Supertrash’s rock & roll inspired ready-to-wear range, and Fracomina. The latter is an Italian brand with a romantic attitude. The average purchase prices of these collections, which will be on display in the agencies’ showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf, range from 40 to 60 Euros. The joint venture will also set up a new showroom in Frankfurt. www.acomode.de, www.select-trading.de

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Sharon Stone is exactly the type of woman Airfield wants to dress.

20 Years Airfield

in Paris with Sharon Stone Airfield celebrated its 20th anniversary with a bang. The brand managed to sign Sharon Stone for its current advertising campaign. CEO Walter Moser is thrilled to bits, naturally. “Sharon is an amazing woman. She is confident in the midst of her life - age is not a category for her. She represents exactly the woman we associate with Airfield.” A positive reference to Austria is the fact that Sharon Stone is a long-time patron of the Life Ball. This, and Sharon Stone’s honest identification with the brand’s look, quickly led to a shooting in Paris.

Airfield opened a new showroom in the French capital in autumn, which was an important step for the brand’s expansion ambitions. Walter Moser: “We believe that Airfield has enormous potential, both in the core markets and on an international level.” To realise this potential, Airfield has recently worked on its own modernisation and adapted its commu-

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nication concept accordingly. A revised product range structure, which optimises individual product groups within the total look, is targeted at facilitating more precise seasonal goods selection for retail partners. With the same aim in mind, the brand also analysed its product management processes. Delivery peaks will be levelled off in the future, and the delivery will be adapted to meet the demands of the retail industry. In response to the increasing price sensitivity of the market, Airfield has strengthened the entry and medium price ranges within its collection.

Walter Moser: “The close and direct contact with our customers is a vital element of Airfield’s strategy going forward. As a dedicated brand focused on the specialised retail industry, we know that we have to provide perfect service on all levels in order to remain successful.” www.airfield.com

woolandco.it

woolandco.it 13 -16 January

DOMINIK MEUER / MUNICH Mobile +49 179 455 2023 Phone +49 89 38887747 d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de www.diehinterhofagentur.de

19 - 22 January

AGENTUR STÖCKLER / HAMBURG Mobile +49 177 307 1302 m.stoeckler@googlemail.com

RALF KLÜVER / SWITZELRAND Mobile +49 172 696 2073 r.kluever@bluewin.ch

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Mey 24/7

Relax with a Clear Conscience

Recreation is becoming increasingly important as a counterpoint to the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Men in particular enjoy spending the best time of the day - or even the entire weekend - in uncomplicated, casual, and comfortable outfits. The body wear specialist’s new loungewear line Mey 24/7, launched in November 2014, is aimed at modern, responsible men. Especially when buying high-end brand clothing, the factor whether a brand is aware of its social, environmental, and economic responsibilities is becoming more decisive. Family-owned Mey has its production chain certified by Switzerland-based Bluesign Technologies AG. This process evaluates whether the final products are safe for consumers, water protection laws were observed, work processes run under the highest security possible, and consumer protection is ensured by the exclusion of problematic materials. This ensures that the production process is resource-saving and environmentally sound.

The company produces 85% of its fabrics at its own headquarters in the Swabian town of Albstadt.

The further processing takes place exclusively in plants in Germany, Hungary, and Portugal, thus ensuring that the company does not only comply with the highest ecological standards, but can also guarantee optimal working conditions and first class quality. For example, the t-shirts of the Mey 24/7 collection are made of hand-picked Peruvian Pima Cotton. The fabric is produced utilising two differently twisted yarns, which guarantees the durability of the products. The retail prices of the round neck and V-neck t-shirts, track and lounge pants, matching sweatshirts, and zip jackets with a pleasantly restrained look and casual, slim cuts range between 39.95 and 99.95 Euros.

Mey 24/7 is available at retailers such as Kastner & Öhler, Engelhorn, Breuninger, Beck, Baltz, and Garhammer. Last year, the magazine Focus Money rewarded Mey’s conscientious approach with a gold sustainability award as the winner of its “With a clear conscience” study in the “Underwear and Stockings” category.www.mey.com Round the clock comfort - the new Mey 24/7 loungewear concept for men.

Save the Duck

Award-winning (Anti-)Down

Save the Duck is a name that speaks for itself and the Italian label does exactly what the name suggests. It wants to protect ducks, geese, and the environment in general. This exemplary commitment was awarded the Vegan Fashion Award 2014 in the “Outerwear Men” category by PETA Germany.

Save the Duck stands for a new generation of down jackets. Instead of genuine goose down, the company only uses light, breathable, and warm Plumtech filling.

This makes the models for women, men, and children an animal-friendly alternative that can rival its competitors in terms of appearance, function, and comfort.

The success proves the label right. Save the Duck is not only stocked by selected premium retailers in Italy, but has also made it into German stores. The brand does not have the typical eco-image, but definitely For the love of has a clear conscience. animals - PETA www.savetheduck.it Germany awarded Save the Duck the Vegan Fashion Award 2014.

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The collaboration with Bijou Karman is only one of Peuterey’s new projects.

Peuterey

Very Special

Peuterey starts into the new year with two very special collaborations. The brand will not only present its new autumn/winter collection at the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, but also launch a new project: Special Event@ Pitti Uomo 87. It expresses the brand’s long-standing commitment to the trade show and also increases the attention from international journalists and buyers. The second project is a limited collection created in collaboration with Bijou Karman, a young illustrator from the US. A total of three exclusive designs prove that fashion and art are a good combination. All three designs represent Peuterey heroines, dressed in key pieces from the new spring/summer collection. Bijou Karman specialises in telling stories through clothes. It seems Peuterey enjoys listening. www.peuterey.it

WWW.FRANCOROSSI.IT

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Wrangler

More Growth & Awareness

In the future, Wrangler wants to put its products on the centre stage.

As part of its strategic realignment, Wrangler has decided to go back to its roots. When the brand was founded in 1947, its jeans were explicitly made to meet the needs of cowboys. Today, the demands on durable trousers are much more diverse. To convince in everyday use, the products from the Denim Performance line boast reinforced crotch and knee areas, as well as features such as the water-repellent “Keep you warm” Thermolite function and pockets with separate, theft-proof sections for mobile phones and documents. The testimonial of the advertising campaign for this function-oriented line is Kimi Räikkönen, the Formula 1 star from Finland. Wrangler hopes that his endorsement will lead to more brand awareness among consumers. An essential part of Wrangler’s growth plan is the new Internet presence with an integrated online shop. “The new website is our first and best way to talk and inform about Wrangler and its products. This exceptional platform will not only enhance our sales directly, but will also improve the sales figures of our own stores, partner stores, and all our wholesale customers throughout Europe”, says Frans Van Zeeland, the president of Wrangler EMEA. The new online shop is open to customers from ten countries, including Sweden, Austria, Great Britain, France, and Germany. www.wrangler.com

Stetson Europe

Gambling for a Good Cause

On the 21st of February 2015, Stetson Europe will be celebrating Stetson’s 150th anniversary with an exclusive charity event for 250 invited guests, and titled “Gamblers’ Ball for the Good”. This event will be staged at the London Hippodrome Casino, a legendary venue which has already hosted stars such as Charlie Chaplin or Harry Houdini, and more recently Sammy Davis Jr., Shirley Bassey, Tom Jones, and the Jackson 5. The background music will be supplied by the swing/punk big band “Cherry Poppin’ Daddies”, who will be flown in for the night from the US. The idea for the event is based on the current “Stetson Wins” campaign, which was realised with real poker professionals. Consequently, the guests will not only be given the opportunity to celebrate and dance, but also to try their luck at poker, black jack, and craps. Jan Heitmann, a professional player, will be on location to pass on valuable tips on how to keep the perfect poker face. However, the bank will never win at the “Gamblers’ Ball for the Good”, because all stakes will be donated directly to the children’s charity “Human Help Network”. The guest list has already been closed, which is why the competition on Stetson’s website is now the only chance to secure one of the coveted tickets for the event. The 150th annual collection for autumn/winter 2015 will be debuted at the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence in January 2015. www.stetson-europe.com

Professional poker players at work - the current “Stetson Wins” campaign.

Not flimsy at all round neck pullover made of recycled cashmere.

Manifattura

A Second Life for Cashmere

Cashmere is a highly valuable and rare material, which means that it is not only sustainable to collect and recycle items that are no longer being worn, but also sensible from an economic point of view. Florence-based Daniele Fiesole has developed an effective method to do just that. Used cashmere items are sorted by colour, bleached, and transformed into a fluffy yarn. A small amount of new yarn is added to obtain an appropriate quality level.

The newly created thread is then enmeshed and dyed anew. Daniele Fiesole can perform this complex procedure in Florence. The first Manifattura line made of recycled cashmere will offer a small range of pullovers for men and one unisex item. The retail prices will be in the region of 199 Euros. Manifattura is distributed by Agentur Schwarte. The collection currently has no own website. www.agentur-schwarte.de

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Handstich

Simplicity

Barb’one / Lucky de Luca

The Lucky Punch

Valentino de Luca always takes matters into his own hands; he is extremely persistent when he believes in a project. Thus all his products are characterised by the highest possible recognition values. His belief in the uniqueness of the Barb’one trouser range has been proven right by the success achieved within the first four seasons. “From the outset, I was convinced that this concept would work. The contrast stitching along the trouser legs, the highest quality “Made in Italy”, and the corresponding price/performance ratio (retail prices between 189 and 249 Euros) make the trousers extremely attractive for the retail industry. It is common knowledge that I always deliver on time, I back all my products fully, and I always strive to offer the best quality possible”, Valentino de Luca explains. The sales success of his collection proves that his concept is right on the money. He was listed at 27 retailers in the first season, at more than 60 in the second, and now supplies no less than 120 top retailers with his products. Alongside Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, he is increasingly focused on international markets such as the US and Dubai, where he has already established first points of sale. The international expansion plans of Barb’one profit from the fact that Valentino de Luca secured a patent for the idea of contrast seams, which are, after all, the core of the brand’s DNA. Distribution in Germany is handled by Lars Fischer and his fashion agency Moderaum Fischer, while the international distribution is handled by Barb’one GmbH, a company owned by Valentino de Luca himself. While the brand family will be expanded in the coming season by the addition of the brand B36, which offers authentic bomber jackets from the 1940s, there are also a few changes to report with reference to the Lucky de Luca blouse collection. “For the coming season, the colours of the shirts and blouses will be somewhat reduced. We have paid more attention to details such as new cuff solutions, contrast stitching, and quilting. Lucky de Luca will no longer be as colourful as it was in the past, but the processing will be more delicate. This goes hand in hand with a certain change of image”, the designer reveals. www.barboneitaly.com, www.luckydeluca.com

Lodenfrey

The Handstich brand is known for utilising artistic imagery to present its luxury sportswear.

Luxury Sportswear in künstlerischer Bildsprache inszeniert ist typisch für die Marke Handstich.

The charismatic Italian chino collection Barb’one is enjoying great success with retailers.

“My vision for Handstich is that it should be a brand that develops products with attention to detail and quality, for people who appreciate such products”, says André Berger, the founder of Handstich. Elaborate collars, leather applications, and wool/nylon knit characterise the collection’s distinctive style. Handstich has already managed to secure 240 customers in the German-speaking markets, including Lodenfrey, Hirmer, Beck, Engelhorn, Abseits, and Different.

The brand also has points of sale in the Benelux countries, the UK, and Scandinavia. The North American market will now be added to the list thanks to Montreal-based importer TM Fashion. “Growth with the right customers is vital to us there too. Quality is more important than quantity”, Berger stresses. “We are also starting the first customer partnerships in Russia, which are handled via the MB showroom in Milan.”

The company from the Bavarian “Fünfseenland” region offers 60 items for men and women, including jackets, knitwear, sweats, shirts, and shoes. This season’s highlights are defined by the material mix, bonded jersey (also as down), all-over prints, and weave structures. The collection will be showcased at the Premium trade show. “We want a simple collection with a clear message, a concentrated package of no more than 15 products within a product category”, Berger explains. “This is how we define where we want to head for others.” www.handstich.de

Officially Award-Winning At the end of November last year, Markus Höhn and Ralph-Michael Nagel, the two

Markus Höhn (left) and Ralph-Michael Nagel accepted the award in the name of approximately 400 employees.

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managing partners of family-owned fashion house Lodenfrey, proudly accepted the German Retail Award (“Deutscher Handelspreis”) for “Management Achievements: Medium-Sized Company” in Berlin. Following an extensive renovation of the company’s main location in Munich, which was completed in spring 2013, Lodenfrey did not only have a new look, but also re-launched itself content-wise and successfully launched its online shop. The jury justified its decision as follows: “After the remodelling over the last years, Lodenfrey has transformed from a traditional retailer into a department store of international calibre. The result is a house with a unique flair and truly fascinating product ranges, both in style and taste. Furthermore, Lodenfrey also operates a multi-award winning online shop since 2010, and has therefore successfully paved the way for meeting the challenges posed by multi-channel retailing.” Towards the end of 2012, Lodenfrey implemented the “same day delivery” principle for its online store, which promises to deliver digital orders from the Munich area within three hours. www.lodenfrey.com

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Fracomina

Youth please!

Strong, active, glamorous, classic - these are the attributes that best describe Fracomina. The result is womenswear that strives to meet the needs of modern women, which means that the brand is a perfect fit for the “Young Department” of ACO. The Düsseldorf-based fashion agency only recently expanded the so-called “Young Department”, in cooperation with Munich-based Select Trading, by adding the labels Supertrash and Gas Jeans. Why Fracomina, you may ask? According to Michael Schulz, the managing director of ACO, there are a number of reasons: “We believe the collection and brand orientation has great potential regarding customer numbers and distribution policy. Furthermore, the brand is stock competent, which is well received by our existing customers and helps us minimise the pre-order risk. Last but not least, the price/performance ratio convinced us.” www.fracomina.it

The Blonde No8 family – the basic parka is now also available as a children’s model.

Blonde No8

Continuation of a Success Story The autumn/winter season 2014/15 marks the fifth delivery of the Blonde No8

Fracomina is the new addition to the young brand portfolio of the “Young Department” of the cooperation between the fashion agencies ACO and Select Trading.

collection, which already has 600 customers in Germany, including Breuninger and Beck, Classico, Eder Kitzbühel, and Lodenfrey. “In addition to the women’s collection, we have just delivered the third season of the men’s range; the sales figures are very good”, says managing director Michael Boveleth. The brand currently offers 30 items for men, including parkas, field jackets, and knitwear, as well as a polar parka with lambskin as a special highlight. “I also had the good fortune to be approached

by PM-Modeagentur, Germany’s best children’s fashion agency”, Boveleth adds.

Thus, a children’s version of the successful basic parka will be available from next winter onwards. The brand is now eager to expand both its German and international distribution networks. Blonde No8 currently has 80 customers in France and will showcase its product range at the Who’s Next trade show in Paris. In Belgium, where the brand is represented by R.V.33 Agency BVBA, it is also enjoying excellent sales. www.blondeno8.com

A successful launch - Gabriele Frantzen (photo) showcases her collection on her own sales floor at Engelhorn Mannheim

Gabriele Frantzen

Candies

Gabriele Frantzen has created a very unique style with her jewellery collection; it’s unconventional, extroverted, and modern. Following the motto “Curated by”, the Munich-based designer has established her own sales area at Engelhorn Mannheim. There she also presents fur scarves, stoles, and shawls, as well as selected items from all over the world, such as candles from LA. Last but not least, she supplies exclusive styles and colours for Engelhorn itself. “These are the special items that lure customers into the stores”, says Gabriele Frantzen. “It is important to me where the products are produced. My jewellery is made in the US, while my accessories are manufactured in Germany. The consumers appreciate this added value.” The list of customers includes Saks Fifth Avenue, Luisa Via Roma in Florence, and Harvey Nichols in London, as well as Apropos Cologne, which is where Gabriele Frantzen introduced her so-called “Wrap Candies” in November. The latter range consists of bracelets in a peppermint tin, a small candy that can be wrapped around the arm. The retail price for that particular product stands at 59 Euros. www.gabriele-frantzen.com

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Duvetica

1,000 Metres Above Sea Level

Mid-December last year, Duvetica opened its very first flagship store in Switzerland in the exclusive ski and holiday resort Gstaad. Following brand stores in Milan, Kitzbühel, Sylt, and Courmayeur, this is the next step of the intensive European expansion plan set in motion by managing director Stefano Rovoletto. The Japanese market, which is where Duvetica was launched before it was introduced to the rest of the world, remains particularly important. Duvetica has managed to improve its position by opening a store in Tokyo. The grand opening in Gstaad was all about exclusivity and charity. Linked to an “A Small World” event, Duvetica partied hard all weekend as a sponsor of the so-called “Winter Weekend”. Following the opening ceremony, “A Small World” staged its charity gala. Duvetica contributed a strictly limited down coat to the auction, which attracted bids from famous guests such as designer Haider Ackermann, Carey Mulligan, and Lou Doillon. www.duvetica.it

Illustrator Diego Soprana designs Spiewak’s N3-B snorkel parka from the new women’s collection in the colour range of this season.

Last December Duvetica opened a flagship store in Gstaad.

Spiewak

Ready for Take-Off

New York-based jacket specialist Spiewak embodies functional and authentic outerwear more than any other brand. Even though the label from Brooklyn was the preferred outfit of the hip-hop and Britpop movements in the 1990s, it was still primarily the outfitter of fire-fighters, policemen, and rescue teams, as well as the supplier of uniforms for both civil and military purposes within seafaring and aviation circles. After the re-launch of the urban wear line in the autumn/ winter 2014 season, for which the fits and qualities were fundamentally revised to facilitate the use in urban areas and to attract a younger target group, the brand has implemented further important measures for its repositioning in this year’s winter collection. While retaining some classic models and the typical Spiewak DNA, the women’s collection was completely changed and improved in many ways. In addition, the brand has turned to significantly more feminine cuts, colours, and materials. For men, Spiewak still offers the Capsule Collection, which is manufactured in the US and Canada, as well as the Golden Fleece addition. The latter consists of historical classics with fashionable slim-fit tailoring, such as a marine coat made of Melton Wool. Some of the first customers of Spiewak were, among others, Daniels, Engelhorn, Schnitzler, Thomas i Punkt, and VMC. The fans of the Tokyo-based bike wear and accessories specialist Narifuri will be happy to hear about the continued partnership with Spiewak.

Once again, the collaboration will produce a small line of reinterpreted classics that were designed specifically for cycling. For the first time, the cycling line utilises recycled materials such as wool and down. Another highlight is a feature-oriented Capsule Collection, which was developed in cooperation with designer Yoshinori Ono. Since November 2013, the production and distribution of Spiewak is in the hands of Swiss company 460 West Broadway SA, which also has the brands Baracuta and BD Baggies in its portfolio.

The German Spiewak distributor is Philipp Castien’s Munich-based agency Adventure. The Austrian market is covered by the sales representative in charge of northern Italy. www.spiewak1904.com

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Marc O’Polo

Ready-To-Wear Casualness It is the pinnacle of the menswear segment and was, until now, lacking in the collection

universe of the premium modern casual brand Marc O’Polo. Therefore, the company has now decided to add this fashion category to its menswear portfolio as of autumn/winter 2015. The new line will be called Marc O’Polo Mr. and will be positioned in the so-called “Upper Casual” segment. The brand remains true to its roots and implements the typical look in the usual casual styles. High-end fabrics and detailed processing in the traditional Italian style, elegant quality, and soft, round constructions translate the characteristic signature of the brand into a ready-to-wear collection that aims to break up the uniformity of the suit world. “The goal is to develop a modern, casual ready-to-wear collection that fits the casual orientation of the brand. We base our creations on a certain nonchalance in the apparel segment, which allows us to present a ready-to-wear collection that doesn’t feel engineered and stiff, but is still ready-to-wear”, says Guido Niedenthal, the head of the Marc O’Polo Mr. division. The brand is aiming for two collections per year with a total of three delivery and two order dates, which will be in line with the classic rhythms of the menswear industry. The first order round will start in January 2015 with the autumn/ winter 2015 collection; the delivery dates will be July/August and September/October 2015. The retail prices range from 69 to 89 Euros for shirts, from 99 to 199 Euros for knitwear, from 199 to 329 for sports jackets, from 299 to 499 Euros for suits, and from 229 to 349 Euros for coats. Initially, the collection will only be sold in Germany in the brand’s own stores, as well as in selected franchise and partner stores. www.marc-o-polo.com The ready-to-wear collection Marc O‘Polo Mr. completes the brand‘s product portfolio.

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Deluxe Distribution

New Addition from Sweden

As of the autumn/winter 2015 season, Berlin-based Deluxe Distribution is the distributor for the Swedish label WeSC - WeAreTheSuperlativeConspiracy in Germany and Austria. Quite a few things have changed at WeSC. The brand has hired a new designer, who will be solely responsible for the jacket collection. In addition, the cuts and grades of shirts, denims, and knitwear have been revised and improved. “Our interim collection allowed our customers a preview of WeSC’s realignment. The collection is significantly cleaner and more reduced than before; it is of much higher quality, which makes it more attractive to “dressed-up” consumers and gives it a more mature profile. It’s a really good, and more fashion-based, range. We have so far received excellent feedback on the completely restructured collection”, says Ilya Morgan, the chief executive of Deluxe Distribution. As before, WeSC has many joint projects with other brands, artists, and athletes. In terms of price, the collection, which is divided up to cater for three delivery dates per season, is positioned in the commercial mid-price segment with a calculation factor between 2.6 and 2.7.

Labels: Minimum, Minus, Moods of Norway, Puffa, Schutz, Skunkfunk, United Nude, WeSC Deluxe Distribution, Berlin/Germany, info@deluxe-distribution.de, www.deluxe-distribution.de

WeSC has reinvented itself and proves it with new visual and collection development concepts.

Successful season: French women's collection Des Petits Hauts.

Die Hinterhofagentur

Brand Ambassadors

The start of Des Petits Hauts, a women’s fashion collection from Paris, could not have been more successful. “We were struggling to process all the repeat order requests in the last autumn/winter season”, says Dominik Meuer, the owner of the fashion agency. Overall, he is content with the way the season went. The men’s collection Bob was very popular and Koike, a Catalan shirt collection, is also winning over more and more customers. The first pre-order stage for the Italian women’s and men’s fashion range of Breco’s was equally pleasing. “The timely delivery and the comprehensive stock programme ensure that Breco’s is highly competitive on the market”, Meuer explains. He sees great potential for the ongoing order season too. Cape Horn has systematically developed its down jacket collection, while the trouser brand Superpants entices its customers with graphic prints.

The Tuscan knitwear collection by Wool & Co will, for the first time, offer an early programme for July in the upcoming order round. Smith’s American, a traditional American work wear brand that has found a new home in Italy, is a new addition to the fashion agency’s portfolio. Smith’s American focuses on shoes, authentic labour clothing, and earthy denim items. Dominik Meuer’s agency sees itself as an ambassador for new labels and products. “The consumers of today are very well informed, always on the go, and often bored by the mainstream fashion that can be found on every corner. We offer independent collections with character; they are nevertheless always commercially viable. After all, we all subsist on sales figures!”

Labels: Bob, Breco’s, Camplin, Cape Horn, Des Petits Hauts, Koike, Out of Order, Smith’s American, Sophie, Stramici, Superpants, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

Guido Maria Kretschmer will soon also offer styles for men and brides.

Unifa Fashion

Focused

In the current season, the fashion agency Unifa wants to focus on brands that performed well despite a difficult market environment. The existing European sportswear collection by True Religion will be expanded into new categories. More tops and more feminine looks complement the jeans collection. The Guido Maria Kretschmer collection will also be expanded. The designer will launch a menswear line in time for the new order season and will also present wedding dresses.

Furthermore, the agency has added a few new LA-based labels to its portfolio. Cotton Citizen is a casual sportswear collection for men and women with washes and tie-dye looks. Oats stands for high-end cashmere basics developed by designer Debra Hayburn. Casual dresses and knitwear in “modern hippie” style are at the core of the fashion collection by For Love & Lemons, the label of young designers Lillian Mahin and Laura Hall. Ultracor is a brainchild of Michael Ball, the founder of Rock & Republic. His leggings and tops, made of functional outer fabrics, promise maximum freedom of movement.

Labels: Art Youth Society, Camouflage Couture Stork, Cotton Citizen, Dr. Denim, Ella Moss, Elisabeth & James, For Love & Lemons, Genetic, Guido Maria Kretschmer, Falcon & Bloom, I love my Moment, J Brand, Mother, Oats, One Teaspoon, Pam & Gela, Rails, Splendid, Stand Black Nude, Ström, True Religion Brand Jeans, The Other Brand, Wildfox, Ultracor Unifa Fashion GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, distribution@unifa-fashion.com, www.unifa-fashion.com

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S PR I NG 2 015 AG J E A N S.CO M

VISIT US AT PREMIUM, BOOTH #H3-A17 distributed by:

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Room with a view

The East-West Connection

If you have successfully cooperated with a brand for a long time, you are always likely to be interested in new developments from that particular label. This is why it was completely logical for Martin Klösch, the showroom manager of Room with a view in Salzburg, to add the brand NLST to his portfolio. NLST was developed by the creative minds behind the progressive R13 Denim crew from New York. The new brand, which was only founded in summer 2013, won over a number of celebrities very quickly (Julianne Moore was recently spotted wearing NLST) and describes itself as “sophisticated and chic”. The collection is made exclusively of Japanese denim; it is structured in a way that allows its style, which is influenced by military and sportswear, to work as both a complete look and an addition to fashionable street wear.

Labels Austria: 7 for all Mankind, Aglini, Bands of L.A., Canada Goose, Ecoalf, George Gina & Lucy, Giorgio Brato, Hanky Panky, Moon Boot, New Balance, NLST, Peuterey, Philo-sofie, Pomandère, R13 Denim, Roque, Tkees, Tyoulip Sisters, Warm-Me, Wood’d, Zoe Karssen Labels Germany: Bands of L.A., Essentiel Antwerp, NLST, Pomandère, R13 Denim, Warm-Me, Wood’d, Zoe Karssen Labels Switzerland: 7 for all Mankind, Aglini, Bands of L.A., Ecoalf, Frogbox, Giorgio Brato, NLST, Philo-sofie, R13 Denim, Save the Duck, Tyoulip Sisters, Warm-Me, WLG, Zoe Karssen Room with a view, Salzburg/Austria, Düsseldorf and Hamburg/Germany, Zurich/Switzerland, office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at

The lighter side of life at Via Masini 80 - Italian fits and casual style.

A touch of navy, a hint of military - NLST’s deliberately casual statement for summer 2015.

The Wearhouse Fashion Trade GmbH

Cult Goods

During his ten years at the agency, Patrick Ebnöther has carefully built a successful brand portfolio. In the process, he’s always shown a very keen sense for brand trends.

Now the fashion expert has grasped yet another opportunity with both hands and secured the cooperation of Nabholz. The Swiss premium sportswear brand is a legend in its own right. It was founded in 1821 and experienced its absolute image high when it was selected as the official outfitter of no less than eleven nations at the Olympic Games in Mexico in 1986. However, the brand lost its way over time. In 2011, textile industry expert Andreas Caduff decided to revive Nabholz, started producing high-end jackets, and managed to secure a deal that made the brand an official promotional partner of the Sauber Formula 1 team. A stringent marketing concept and a clear brand statement (“For Living Legends”) ensured that Nabholz regained a foothold, especially in the jacket segment. Patrick Ebnöther sensed this trend too, and decided that he would like to contribute to the brand’s development. In the autumn/winter season of 2015/16, Nabholz plans to introduce a new, solid-waxed cotton fabric that is manufactured in Japan.

Labels: Barena Venezia, Bowery NYC, Caliban, Camerucci Archivio, Campomaggi, Caterina Lucchi, Circolo 1901, Giuglielminotti, GMS-75, Hunkydory, Mason’s, Michael Stars, Nabholz, Natural Selection, Paltò, Rude Riders, Siviglia, Spiewak, Stone Island, Tintoria Mattei The Wearhouse Fashion Trade GmbH, Erlenbach/Switzerland, wearhouse@wearhouse.ch, www.wearhouse.ch

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Nabholz winter parka with an innovative, solid-waxed cotton.

Daily Business

In the Name of Trousers

L. Pucci s.r.l. has been among the most renowned Italian trouser manufacturers for more than 40 years. The ready-to-wear clothing manufacturer from Castelfiorentino (Florence) has now developed a new line: Via Masini 80. Annette Bailleux, the owner of Compagnia Maglia GmbH, has many years of experience in the distribution of high-end fashion and managed to secure the brand for her own partner agency named Daily Business. Via Masini 80 is a smaller line of fine trousers in unusual designs and impressed Annette Bailleux with its excellent fits. “Via Masini 80 offers new qualities”, she says enthusiastically. “The line successfully masters the balancing act to make a pair of trousers look young and casual.” The line, which is exclusively manufactured in Italy, will be made available from the current order season onwards with an autumn/winter delivery date. Via Masini 80 is on display in the showroom on Zurich’s “Gold Coast”.

Label: Argonne, Moorer, Rosa von Schmaus, Koral Activewear, Koral Jeans, Via Masini 80 Daily Business GmbH, Erlenbach/Switzerland, info@dailybiz.ch, www.dailybiz.ch

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Wunschnaht

New Positioning for Schiesser Revival

The fashion agency Wunschnaht has been tasked by Schiesser Revival to coordinate all repositioning and customer recruitment measures in Germany. The 120-item fashion line for women and men does not only include the well-known fine-rib classics, but also new highlights such as silk blouses, cashmere long-sleeves, t-shirts, and jumpers of the highest quality. “We want to position Schiesser Revival in a new environment to show that the fashion line has huge potential in the tops segment. The collection consists of many highlights with an excellent grip at a good price level. The items are well-suited to complement denim and jacket ranges”, Robin Juchems, the chief executive of Wunschnaht, explains. From its headquarters in Offenbach and its showroom in Munich, the agency will cover the entire German market. However, there is one exception. Existing customers in North Germany will still be served by an existing Schiesser sales representative. This season, all brands represented by Wunschnaht will be showcased at the Seek trade show in Berlin.

Labels: 1ST PAT-RN, Anderson’s, Be Edgy, Bread & Boxers, Brosbi, Collective, Cote & Ciel, Enso Art, Evisu, Lyle & Scott Vintage, Sandqvist, Schiesser Revival, Stutterheim, The One Goods, YMC, WhyRed Wunschnaht, Offenbach & Munich/Germany, info@wunschnaht.de, www.wunschnaht.de

The blouse collection Mu (formerly known as Candice) starts into the new season under a new name.

Modeist GmbH

The Joy of Shopping

Treading new paths - Schiesser Revival introduces its new collection with a new distribution agency.

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Select Trading

Maximum Service From the next ordering round onwards, Munich-based fashion

agency Select Trading will expand its service by adding another showroom in Frankfurt. Alongside the two existing showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf, Bernard Waage, the owner of the agency, sees the third venue, located in the “Heyne Factory” in Frankfurt, as an important step towards offering his customers additional services through more flexibility and accessibility. This move also leads to the recruitment of new employees, who will present the same brand portfolio at the new location as in the other cities. Two collections from Copenhagen have been added to the customer base this season, namely the sneaker collection

by Garment Project and the high-end leather jacket range by MDK. “Our focus on a specialised portfolio, with a limited number of brands, highlights our philosophy of quality over quantity.

We prefer to have five employees develop a brand professionally, rather than having one employee trying to promote five brands”, the agency’s mission statement reads. At the same time, Select Trading is also expanding on a content-related level. As part of a cooperation agreement with Aco Germany, Bernard Waage and Michael Schulz are planning to facilitate the entry of new brands into the younger, mid-price segments.

Select Trading labels: By Malene Birger, Garment Project, Hudson Shoes, John Varvatos, MDK, Tiger Jeans, Tiger of Sweden Select Trading GmbH, Munich/Germany, info@select-trading.com, www.select-trading.com

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Marion Hoferer, the owner of the Modeist fashion agency, believes that the essential recipe for success is to address the right issues at the right time. She plans to refine her approach even further during the coming season: “We have put a lot of thought into the strategy for all our labels for next winter. Do they really enrich the market? What can be improved? Is the price/performance ratio adequate? And, most importantly, is the delivery date chosen wisely? Our goal is to make costumers enjoy shopping again.”

Under a new name, the blouse label Mu (formerly known as Candice), from the Aglini manufactory, continues its success story with ten casually and femininely cut models in eight colours and two quality levels (stretched silk and cotton), at purchase prices between 65 and 85 Euros. The brand offers one delivery date in June and July 2015. The bag collection

by Another Bag will be delivered at the same time. In its fourth season, the brand offers 30 models in four colours each, as well as a pre-order programme with a delivery date on the 15th of November. The entire collection will be on show at the Premium trade show in Berlin and the Modeist showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich. The Hamburg-based XL knitwear collection by Brooktorquai 8, consisting of eight high-end oversize pullovers and coats (retail prices between 199 and 399 Euros), and WannaHaves by Montgomery, a small Montgomery range with a concentrated, high-quality range of lambskin jackets and coats (delivery date July 2015), are promising additions to the fashion agency’s portfolio.

Labels: 0941, Another Bag, B. Belt, Blaumax, Brooktorquai 8, Montgomery Leather, MustHaves by Montgomery, WannaHaves by Montgomery, Mu, SassiCara Modeist GmbH, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com

In the thick of things - the new showroom in Frankfurt is located in the urban agglomeration area surrounding the “Heyne Factory”.

www.marlino.de

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agency almagreal ph. Manuele Geromini - Laura Villa Baroncelli © ottod‘Ame 2014

Philipp Maly

"The First Round Was a Success"

After the delivery of the first Olea collection in Austria, the great expectations of agency owner Philipp Maly were more than fulfilled. The conclusion is clear: “We did very well, which means we won’t be changing anything. I was positively surprised by the fact that the customers ordered a higher percentage of exclusive collection items than expected. The proportion between our high-end leather goods and basics like silk tops was nearly 70% to 30%. I initially had some of these high-end leather items pre-produced to ensure that I could react to re-orders within 2 to 3 weeks. The first items arrived as early as October.” Philipp Maly intends to expand the collection from 32 to 36 items next season, and he is eager to establish the brand on the German market in the medium term.

Philipp Maly, Vienna/Austria, office@philippmaly.at, www.philippmaly.at

The Olea collection for the autumn/winter 2015/16 season will be expanded by a maximum of four high-end items.

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High fashion Ottod’Ame from Italy is one of the new labels in the Komet und Helden portfolio.

Komet und Helden

Passion, Schweinsteiger, and African Carpets

The Komet und Helden fashion agency has added five new labels to its portfolio for the autumn/winter 2015/16 season. One of the new additions is Gamp, an Italian brand that offers an extraordinarily cut women’s jacket made of wool, felted wool, and leather. Each season’s collection includes a special vintage material used for details or lining, thereby making every item unique.

Currently this special material is sourced from old African carpets. Todd Snyder, a former designer at Polo Ralph Lauren and Gap, has now launched his own label named Champion. It offers a fashion line for men, with a clean style and soft quality. Paltó from Italy is very British, mainly because its coat collection for men and women utilises typical British materials. Distorted People was initially the name of a series of parties organised by Munich locals, but now the name stands for a sportswear line consisting of caps, t-shirts, and sweats with the typical “cleaver & razor” logo, which is not only one of Sebastian Schweinsteiger’s favourites. The final new addition is Italian label Ottod’Ame, which focuses on a highly fashionable total look for women. The line impresses with its Italian quality, a good price strategy, and a calculation factor between 2.8 and 3.0. “We don’t want to chase trends; we want to invest all our energy and passion in projects, brands, and ideas that we back 100%”, says Komet und Helden’s Florian Ranft, who runs the fashion agency together with Henrik Soller.

The agency continues to focus on premium sportswear brands, mostly from the US and Italy. Classics in the portfolio include the likes of Woolrich, AG, and Gilded Age. Labels: AG, Baracuta, B.D. Baggies, Blauer USA, Bowery NYC, Bucketfeet, Todd Snyder for Champion, Diemme, Distorted People, Gamp, Gilded Age, Hartford, Kindlein, Ottod’Ame, Paltó, Pence, The Artistylist, The Nime, Woolrich John Rich & Bros.

Komet und Helden, Munich/Germany, muenchen@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de

Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode

Visionaries from Florence

Prints are the speciality of Anima Pop, the new Italian fashion line.

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Continuity is what distinguishes Rolf Griesinger’s fashion agency. The brand portfolio, with its proven mix, remains intact. The exclusive leather collection Vintage Racing

by Meindl, which was added to the portfolio last season, is complemented by various lambskin qualities and new leather colours. A brand new addition to the showroom is the Italian Anima Pop collection from Florence, which offers a highly attractive calculation factor. The reversible dresses with reduced cuts are made of neoprene, which is processed by utilising laser cut technology. Imaginatively bright or subtle prints create a modern and feminine look. The dresses are wrinkle-free, easy to wash, and fit into every suitcase. They are delivered in matching printed bags. So far, the dresses have been available in Italy, Canada, France, Spain, and the Benelux countries, but now Germany and Austria have been added to the list.

Labels: Anima Pop, Bloom, Dante6, FFC, Flowers for Friends, Hot Spot, IQ+ Berlin, Vintage Racing by Meindl Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH, Munich/Germany, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de

L( ! )W BRAND info@lowbrand.it | www.lowbrand.com Agency D/CH/A: Patrick Coppolecchia Reinartz info@d-tails.de | www.d-tails.de

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Matthias Schwarte

New Inspiration Benson N.Y., a label that stands for a cultivated sportswear range with

Benson N.Y. stands for cultivated sportswear from the US and is a new addition to the brand portfolio of Matthias Schwarte.

t-shirts, sweats, and cashmere knitwear, has chosen Agentur Schwarte as its representative for the German and Austrian markets. “We want to provide new sources of inspiration with Benson N.Y.; we are fully convinced of the look, design, and quality of the brand”, Matthias Schwarte says. “The collection is a fixture in the US and supplies numerous retailers such as Barneys, Bloomingdales, and Fred Segal; we want to build on that success.” The retail prices range from 49 to 79 Euros for t-shirts and 59 to 99 Euros for long sleeves. The calculation factor stands between 2.8 and 2.9. Ape & Partners, a sportswear company based in Treviso and the owner of the Parajumpers brand, has teamed up with sportswear giant Olmes Carretti for the launch of a collection named O-C Authentic Masterfleece. The idea is to combine design and comfort with the aim of becoming the number one supplier of fleece and jersey pants. Jerseys with Jacquard patterns are but one example of the design philosophy behind O-C Authentic Masterfleece. Other household names in the portfolio of the Munich-based agency include Parajumpers and Lodenfrey 1842. The latter are collections that understand how to combine a good name, innovation, and a strong image.

Labels: Armani Jeans, Benson N.Y., Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Lodenfrey 1842, Luis Trenker, O-C Authentic Masterfleece, Parajumpers, Sundek Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de

D-tails Coppolecchia Reinartz

Order Platform in The Gallery

As part of “The Gallery” trade show, the agency’s Düsseldorf branch plans to move to the “Botschaft” event venue in “Cecilienallee” during the order period. D-tails will showcase its portfolio with a few other Munich-based fashion agencies. “We believe in Düsseldorf”, says Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz. “What’s important to us is an order platform that works for ten days.” The agency plans to present its strong partners, such as the outdoor brand Duvetica and the trendy collection by the Italian brand Atos Lombardini, which offers short-term delivery dates. The latter impresses with fashionable looks for women and matching accessories. New additions to the agency’s brand portfolio are Piacenza Cashmere 1733 and the menswear brand L(!)

W, which are designed and manufactured in Italy. The collection is characterised by the timeless style of its tops, trousers, and shoes in cool tones of grey and blue, as well as the extraordinary materials, which can easily remain in style for more than one season. The casual women’s line by Rialto 48 from Rovereto impresses with reduced cuts and the usage of fabrics such as linen, cotton, and leather in basic colour tones.

Labels: ABCL shirts, Alpha Studio, Anna F., Atos Lombardini, Barleycorn, Borbonese, Duvetica, Graziani Jewels, Luigi Borrelli, L(!)w Brand, Massimo Alba, Mosaique, Oui Nous le Chapeau, Piacenza Cashmere 1733, Pollini, Route des Garden, Rialto 48, Spektre Sunglasses, Veeshoo, Ylati Footwear Agentur D-tails, Munich/ Germany, info@d-tails.de, www.d-tails.de D-tails focuses on Italian fashion, such as the short delivery trends by Atos Lombardini.

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As befits the name - Fashion Factory and Panorama Europe are moving into an old factory hall with an expansive glass roof structure.

Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters / Panorama Europe

Larger Headquarters

For the last five years, the agency Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters and the distributor Panorama Europe have been collaborating as part of a strategic partnership. “We have managed to generate 30% more revenue from season to season. The quick decision-making processes involving the retail industry, distributors, marketing departments, PR offices, and producers ensure that we can act and react both swiftly and efficiently”, says Mark Grütters, who celebrates his 25th anniversary in the fashion business this year. Now the expansion plans require an enlargement of the showroom, warehouse, and office spaces. In “Fichtenstrasse 70”, in Düsseldorf’s Flingern district, the companies have rented a former industrial hall located in the immediate vicinity of the “Schwanenhöfe”.

The new location, with 900 square metres spread out over two floors, offers twice as much space as before. The expansive glass roof ensures a daylight-flooded showroom. “We have a different approach to growth.

The new location is where you do not necessarily expect a fashion showroom to be, but it is still central and trendy. The size of the hall allows for further growth, so we hope to work and grow here for a number of years”, Grütters explains.

Labels: American College, Bailey of Hollywood, Espadrij l’Originale, Grundens, La Botte Gardiane, Menil, Orcival, Rivieras, Schott NYC Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters, Düsseldorf/Germany, contact@ffbymg.com, www.ffbymg.com Panorama Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, mail@panorama-europe.eu, www.panorama-europe.eu

Premium Berlin Hall 1, stand B 21 From Monday, 19 till Wednesday, January 21st

Who´s next Paris Univers Fame, Hall 4, stand A 421 From Friday, 23 till Monday, January 26th

Die Hinterhofagentur Germany / Austria Siegesstr . 23, 80802 MĂźnchen Fon +49 (89) 388 877 47-48, mobil : +49 (179) 455 20 23 d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de www.diehinterhofagentur.de www.despetitshauts.com

046 RIGHT NOW “Wanna yoga?” - Silver Jeans Co combines the classic jeans look with the comfort of sweatpants.

CP Fashion

MAB

Power and Cult

Urban street style and high-end couture are the two extremes that bracket the Les Éclaires collection, which is a brand new addition to the portfolio of Düsseldorf-based fashion agency MAB. “We are convinced that the collection will be very successful in the German-speaking regions”, says Regis Benabou, the owner of MAB. “The label is in its second year, positioned professionally, and has an enormous amount of power. With early, reliable delivery dates it is also very customer friendly.” The purchase prices range from 45 to 85 Euros for t-shirts, 369 to 825 Euros for leather jackets, and 92 to 110 Euros for jeans.

The calculation factor is 2.7. Another brand that is developing splendidly is BLK DNM. Benabou: “Johan Lindeberg works extremely hard, especially on the collection, the logistics, and the marketing concept. BLK DNM has already earned cult status in the US and Scandinavia; VIPs like Jay-Z and Beyonce are in close personal contact with Lindeberg and are more than happy to wear his collection.” Lindeberg currently also works for Diesel, his own brand J. Lindeberg, and Justin Timberlake’s label William Rast. He describes BLK DNM as the fulfilment of a dream and embodiment of his own ideals.

Labels: Atelier Brume, Ba&sh, BLK DNM, Boulezar, Emanuel Ungaro, Fame on you, Fendi Accessoires, Givenchy Accessoires, Jimmy Choo Accessoires, Kenzo, Les Éclaires, Mackage, National Standard, Opening Ceremony, Paul & Joe, Paul & Joe Sister, Rachel Zoe MAB - Modeagentur Benabou GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@mab-fashion.com, www.mab-fashion.com

Five New Additions and a New Showroom in Munich

The CP Fashion agency continues to grow. For the coming season, it has moved into a new showroom in Munich’s Schwabing district. The new 350 square metre premises, located at “Georg-Muche-Strasse 3-5” in the “Denkraum” estate, are almost twice as large as the previous ones.

Furthermore, Reinhard Oberstein, the general manager of CP Fashion, has added five new brands to his portfolio.

Daja Vu is a small leather collection consisting of high-end trousers and jackets from Italy. Istanbul-based label Jim & Judy offers trendy street fashion and denim collections for men and women, while Canadian brand Soia & Kyo specialises in leather jackets and ultra light down jackets, as well as fashionable woollen coats and jackets. In addition, CP Fashion has managed to secure the distribution rights for Californian silver jewellery line King Baby Studio in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Last but not least, a familiar face from LA returns to the German-speaking markets via CP Fashion: Christian Audigier and his new label Pretorian Los Angeles. Silver Jeans Co also has some news. “The line with the suffix ‘yoga’ has already achieved great sales success in North America. The Les Éclaires is a brand new addition to the portfolio of MAB; it is a symbiosis of urban street style and high-end couture. ‘denim meets active wear’ philosophy was the basis for the development of this extraordinary fabric design, which is indistinguishable from conventional denim, but also has the properties of weaved active wear materials. Our German customers have ventured to address this topic too, and they have already achieved good sales success”, Oberstein explains.

Labels: Chaser, Daja Vu, Evleo, Jaggy, Jim & Judy, Joe’s Jeans, Moderaum Fischer King Baby Studio, Michael Stars, Paja, Robin’s Jeans, Silver agen Jeans Co, Soia & Kyo cies CP Fashion, Bad Säckingen, Düsseldorf, and Munich/ Germany, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de Valentino de Luca plans to enrich the market with a new fashion line. It is named B36 in honour of the famous “Peacemaker” airplane used by the US Air Force between 1949 and 1959. For Lars Fischer of Moderaum Fischer, the agency that already represents the collections Lucky de Luca, Barb’one, and Born Lucky, it was only logical to add the newest de Luca creation to his portfolio. “The speciality of designer Valentino de Luca is to communicate emotionally charged topics via his brands. He creates more than just fashion. His brands have background stories and this also applies to B36, which offers sporty jackets for a target group between 25 and 50 years of age”, Lars Fischer explains.

“Everyone who knows Valentino de Luca knows that he will present us with something truly spectacular.” Lars Fischer will showcase his collections in Berlin and at the Supreme trade show in Düsseldorf.

Labels: Aprés, B36, Barb’one, Fratelli Rossetti, Lucky de Luca Moderaum Fischer, Munich/Germany, lars@moderaumfischer.de, www.moderaumfischer.de

Flying at High Altitude

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FALL | WINTER 2015 l 2016

VERNISSAGES

JANUARY 19.01.15 – 23.01.15 – 25.01.15 – 26.01.15 – 29.01.15 – 31.01.15 –

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PREMIUM I BERLIN WHO‘S NEXT I PARIS MODEFABRIEK I AMSTERDAM TRANOI PREVIEW I PARIS CIFF I KOPENHAGEN SUPREME I DÜSSELDORF

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Data Columns at Every Stand

The Panorama trade show in Berlin is continuing to grow and is pleased to have secured more than 80 new exhibitors, including brands like Mustang, Birkenstock, Casamoda, Hüftgold, and Yumi London.

The “Now” section, which is dedicated to instant order collections and is located in halls 7A and 7B, will also be expanded. Overall, the Panorama trade fair has fine-tuned its layout and movement concepts. To this end, the event has decided to integrate a concept titled “The Mall” and also create catering/lounge areas as places of retreat between the halls. Last season saw the premiere of the Panorama Berlin Lectures, which will be continued in January offering topics such as sustainability and e-commerce, for the first time with a simultaneous translation into English. In addition, the trade show will introduce tickets equipped with RFID technology, which enable a direct B2B data exchange.

Every stand has a so-called data column to afford the visitor a quick overview of the available collections, as well as providing company contacts and even look books. 19th to 21st of January 2015, www.panorama-berlin.com

The men’s collection by Marni is one of the highlights of the various events surrounding the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show.

Pitti Immagine Uomo

Figureheads of Creativity

The Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show aspires to offer its international audience new inspiration every season: with creative exhibition design, new exhibitors, and via radiant side events all over Florence. One highlight of the January event is the presentation of Italian avant-garde label Marni, attended personally by the shy head designer, Consuelo Castiglioni. Art-inspired fashion enthusiasts have the opportunity to see Hollywood star Tilda Swinton during a one-off presentation organised by Fondazione Pitti Discovery. The performance, titled “Cloakroom”, was written exclusively for the trade show by author/director Olivier Saillard. A real buzz surrounds the special guest of the event: Hooded By Air, which doesn’t only make waves with its fashion. Founded by Shayne Oliver, the cult associated with the label is defined by a perfect multimedia concept. It’s really worth seeing! 13th to 16th of January 2015, www.pittimmagine.com

The success story of the Panorama trade show continues and is increasingly focused on newest technologies.

Premium

Family Ties

27,000 square metres for 1,800 fashion collections - the Premium trade show is strengthening its position as one of the most important trade fairs, both notably and visibly. To meet the current needs of the fashion trade, the event in Berlin covers the entire spectrum of the industry, ranging from premium/ design brands to commercial trend collections. Last October, the new hall 8 was completed; it is reserved for luxury brands, international newcomers, and award-winning young designers, among them René Storck, Vladimier Karaleev, and Halston Heritage. The so-called “Kühlhaus”, the home of the Seek trade show before it moved into the “Arena” complex on the banks of the Spree, is dedicated to high-sales fashion collections such as Fornarina, Gas, Noa Noa, Oilily, One Green Elephant, Dstrezzed, and Custo Barcelona.

“The feedback the new concept received from the brands is very positive”, says Anita Tillmann, the managing director of Premium Exhibitions. “The coherent mix in the separate hall is particularly popular. At the same time, the ‘Kühlhaus’ is an expansion of the event and the brands on show there are part of the Premium family.” The range of accessories are on disClose to the market play in the areas “Cube 1” and “Cube 2”, which are in the immediate The Premium trade vicinity of halls 7 and 8. “Fashiontech - Innovation Lab” is the title of show has increased another key topic of the Premium and Seek trade shows. Located in its exhibition area the “Arena Glasshouse” of the Seek event, it is aimed at providing an by no less insight into the newest digital developments with talks, panels, presthan 17%. entations, and innovation workshops. 19th to 21st of January 2015, www.premiumexhibitions.com

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A community of its own - The Seek trade show has grown and now covers approximately 6,000 square metres.

fairs

Seek

The Scene on the Spree Riverbank The Seek trade show has dedicated itself to the culture, independence, and future of urban lifestyle. It’s a tough task, but obviously also a recipe for success. The Berlin-based event is on the up and has decided to relocate its 250 exhibitors to the trendy “Arena” complex.

An imposing steel roof structure shields the hall with typical industrial charm, situated right next to famous Berlin nightclubs such as “White Trash Fast Food”, “Schiff Hoppetosse”, and “Club der Visionäre”. The “Arena” complex is a perfect match for the Seek trade fair, which made the decision to relocate the autumn/winter 2015/16 event from the “Kühlhaus”, next to the Premium trade show, to the new location because the old premises were no longer large enough to act as an adequate presentation platform. “The Seek is growing and will accommodate roughly 250 exhibitors; the high demand proves that we have the right concept”, says Maren Wiebus, the sales director at Seek. However, the Seek show wants to remain faithful to its uncompromising claim of showcasing a selective and credible selection of timeless niche products alongside broader-based brands.

The Heart of Urban Lifestyle What was once used as a bus depot for the public transport system in the 1920s, is now the venue for a mix of modern menswear, upper street wear, and sportswear, as well as designer collections. A big player like Ben Sherman is a good match for a small supplier of beard styling oils, while the raincoats of Stutterheim are an excellent fit for the brogues by Grenson. All

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stands, sized between 5 and 50 square metres, are spread out at ground level. The new exhibitors are happy to adapt to this concept. The newcomers include Boy London, Carharrt WIP, and Edwin, as well as Côte & Ciel Comme des Garcons, Diadora Heritage, and Dunderdon. “The Seek trade show represents the style for the modern man, who is naturally fashionable”, Wiebus explains. “It’s all about fashion that focuses on long-lasting quality, not merely on trends; fashion that persuades customers with sustainable sovereignty, not with superficial gimmicks.”

So far, menswear dominates the Seek trade show, but the women’s wear segment will be expanded gradually by adding brands such as Sessun and Libertine Libertine, which are recent newcomers. The display is complemented by accessories, as well as lifestyle and technical gadgets. In the long term, the Seek wants to represent the full scope of urban lifestyle, including books, beauty and grooming products, and interior design items.

Although the Seek is now spatially separated from the Premium trade fair, the two events are still closely connected, also thanks to the Audi shuttle service, which will transport visitors from one venue to the other within approximately 15 minutes. The relocation to the “Arena” area shows that the Seek is right on trend, but the event still wants to be perceived as a business platform, not a party venue. “We, in our capacity as trade show organisers, remain in the background”, says Wiebus. “We are the communicators and are eager to create an atmosphere that is inviting rather than excluding.”

19th to 20th of January 2015, www.seekexhibitions.com

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Munich Fabric Start

A Glimpse of the Future In February 2015, the Munich Fabric Start trade fair

Which colours will dominate the industry in summer 2016?

The Munich Fabric Start shows a glimpse of the future.

fairs

once again expects to attract approximately 20,000 international visitors from the textiles and clothing industry. Roughly 950 exhibitors will present up to 1,500 fabrics and components collections for the spring/summer season 2016. Back in December 2014, the View Premium Selection in Munich’s MVG Museum offered a glimpse of what the aforementioned season will be bringing. As an exception, the schedule of the upcoming Munich Fabric Start has been changed. The trade show will start on Monday to avoid major overlaps with other events such as Milano Unica. The Munich Fabric Start offers the following areas: Collections (fabrics), Additionals (components and accessories), Asia Salon (manufacturers from Korea and China), and Design Studios (textile designers and trend agencies focused on print). The Organic Selection showcases a range of sustainable fabrics and components. Both the demand and the quality standards of the selection are always on the rise, according to Claudia Gossen, the trade fair’s director for marketing and communication. Parallel to the main event, the organisers will also stage Eco Village, a platform for certifiers and institutions such as GOTS, IVN, CERES, and Fairwear Foundation. The Blue Zone in the Zenith Hall will once again house 80 weavers, finishers, and washers from the denim, street wear, and sportswear industries. “The market needs and utilises this denim platform at that date”, concludes Sebastian Klinder, the chief executive of Munich Fabric Start, after the success of the last event.

2nd to 4th of February 2015, www.munichfabricstart.com

Premium/Show & Order/Seek/Bright

Cosy, chic, and cool - Show & Order offers a selection of casual, high-end exclusive labels and newcomers.

Show & Order

Chase and Discovery

The motto of the seventh edition of the Show & Order trade fair, to be staged in Berlin’s “Kraftwerk” event location, is “Chase and Discovery”. Some of the designers, who presented their ranges to German buyers for the first time over the last few seasons, have developed into real money spinners for the specialised retail industry. “We provide a platform for inspiration and upcoming brands. We are the trade show where labels are discovered; we stand for what will be relevant in the future. We bring the most interesting styles and best must-haves to Berlin”, says Verena Malta, the managing director of Show & Order. “We are the place where new brands are discovered, the perfect destination for hunter-gatherers, which is why we are completely focused on the ‘Discovery’ angle. The so-called “Show & Buy” area, which showcases suppliers of immediate fashion programmes selected by international fashion scouts, will be enlarged once more in the coming season. “We present collections with which the industry can also generate short-term revenues. In terms of current season trends and swift processing, the brands are in an optimal position to complement the classic pre-order portfolio. Furthermore, they are the perfect counterweight to the product ranges of vertical retailers. It’s a real added value for retailers and it’s perfectly in tune with current market developments”, Verena Malta explains.

19th to 21st of January 2015, www.showandorder.com

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One Ticket for Four Trade Shows

The Berlin-based trade show organisers Premium, Show & Order, Seek, and Bright will debut a joint entrance ticket system for the events scheduled for January 2015. Trade visitors simply have to register at one of the participating trade fairs and can then easily access the other three events via the “Joint Ticketing” option. This strategic alliance to simplify the ticketing and accreditation process offers a real added value to the visitors of the Berlin-based trade shows, and is in line with the industry’s wish to facilitate preparations for a trade fair visit. “Our joint ticketing system creates optimal conditions for a time-efficient visit of all events. The partnership between the participating organisers Premium, Show & Order, Seek, and Bright strengthens Berlin as a whole. We all know each other well, talk on a regular basis, and respect each other’s years of experience”, says Anita Tillmann, the managing director of Premium.

One for all - one ticket gains access to four trade shows.

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054 RIGHT NOW The Supreme Women&Men trade shows attract an increasing number of international buyers to Düsseldorf and Munich.

GDS

Finetuning

Last season, the GDS trade show was staged at an earlier date for the first time.

The GDS is now working on fine-tuning its concept to establish itself as the kick-off event of the season. The February 2015 trade show, with its focus on the three lifestyle worlds Highstreet, Pop-Up, and Studio, will be even more charged with atmosphere and create the perfect stage for a total of 900 brands. The Highstreet lounge in hall 5 will be enlarged; the path will no longer lead straight through the hall, to give the visitors even more time for inspiration. The trends will be even more clearly illustrated via new trend installations. The upscale Studio section will showcase a selection of exclusive design collections, handpicked by an international jury. Instead of the “Design Attack”, Eddi Mackowiak has come up with a totally new concept titled “Richtig Richtig”, an innovative blend of a vintage sneakers market, street wear, industrial furniture, and sound systems.

Shows organised by exhibitors, the “Studio Show”, and the “Fashion-Blogger-Café Shoeedition” will round off the trade show’s schedule.

2nd to 3rd of February 2015, www.gds-online.de

Supreme Women&Men

Advanced Internationalisation

The GDS is fine-tuning its concept as the kick-off event of the season. Photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann.

ispo

fairs

The Supreme Women&Men has exhausted all its options for the events in Düsseldorf’s “B1” and “MTC World of Fashion Munich”. Larger areas are not available. “It is noticeable how important the German-speaking markets are. We have many new exhibitors from France, Italy, and even the US, who are eager to show their collections to retailers at our event”, says Aline Schade, the sales director of The Supreme Group. The most notable new exhibitors are brands such as Floris van Bommel and Pantofola d’Oro, which will visit Munich for the first time ever. Furthermore, Meindl has decided to return as a re-entry. During the winter season, a number of fur suppliers will showcase their collections in both Düsseldorf and Munich on an area between 500 and 600 square metres. The framework programme, in the form of evening “Get Togethers” for exhibitors and visitors, will take place in the immediate vicinity of the event locations.

Supreme Women&Men Düsseldorf: 31st of January to 3rd of February 2015 Supreme Women&Men Munich: 14th to 17th of February 2015 www.munichfashioncompany.com

One-Off Schedule Change

The fully booked calendar of Munich’s exhibition centre has forced the “ispo” trade show to modify its schedule this year. Just this once, the leading international trade fair for the sports goods industry will take place from the 5th of February 2015 (Thursday) to the 8th of February 2015 (Sunday). Tobias Gröber, the head of Messe München’s consumer goods divisions, explains: “The needs of exhibitors and visitors are always our priority. After considering all aspects such as date, duration, and day sequence, we opted for the best compromise we could achieve.” Furthermore, the “ispo Business Profile” offers a new year-round service that enables companies to have an even more personal relationship with their customers. Similar to Facebook, the service allows retailers, producers, and suppliers to present themselves online, build up a community of followers, and to interact with the sports-interested consumers within the “ispo Community”. They can encourage consumers to participate in projects, votes, and discussions, thereby gaining opinions and ideas for their own concepts and products. The basic profile is free of charge and can easily be expanded by means of additional upgrades. 5th to 8th of February 2015, www.ispo.com

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Active customer loyalty programme - the “ispo Business Profile” is a direct opinion and market research tool for companies.

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fairs

Who’s Next Paris

Happy Birthday!

The Who’s Next trade show in Paris stands for a large selection of readyto-wear fashion lines.

The Parisian Who’s Next trade show is turning 20. It has decided to mark the occasion with a huge opening party and an exhibitors’ fashion show in the evening of its first day. The event combines two concepts at the “Porte de Versailles”. The Première Classe, which is located in hall 7.1, showcases accessories by brands such as Blumera, La Jara Jewellery, Ash, Kennel & Schmenger, and Vagabond. The “less is more” philosophy ensures that the range is streamlined and carefully curated. Who’s Next itself presents ready-to-wear fashion in the halls 2.1, 3, and 4, in a number of clearly structured universes. “Trendy” is dedicated to stylish collections with a balanced price/ performance ratio, including See U Soon and Crim, while the “Urban” area focuses on a denim-centred range, including brands like Blend, Salsa, and Gipsy Mauritius. The “Woman” section is dedicated to sophisticated women’s fashion by the likes of Olsen, Tricot Chic, and Ulla Popken. Finally, the “Fame” area focuses on the creative design aspect, including Baum und Pferdgarten, Blonde No8, French Connection, and Harris Wilson. A new element included in the framework of the Who’s Next trade show is the possibility for brands to present themselves on an individual brand catwalk twice a day. The service range is complemented by two trend forums for accessories and ready-to-wear fashion. 23rd to 26th of January 2015, www.whosnext.com

The upcoming Chic trade show in Shanghai will provide a glimpse into the future of the Asian fashion markets.

Chic

Asian Heavyweight

The China International Fashion Fair, also known as Chic, is positioning itself as Asia’s leading trade fair. In March, it will spread out over an area of approximately 106,000 square metres at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC), which is located near the airport of Shanghai; this makes it the second largest fashion show in the world. Chic’s main aim is to facilitate the expansion of international conglomerates into the fast-growing Chinese market. Shanghai, with near to 100 shopping malls and department stores, is already classified as an international prime location. However, the development focus is currently on a number of other Chinese cities. Chic is characterised by its various lifestyle worlds, which bring together men’s, women’s, and children’s fashion underneath one roof. In addition to the areas for Chinese brands, the trade fair will also set up an independent “Overseas Pavilion” for international brands. Parallel to the main event, the organisers plan to stage Chic Young Blood, a spin-off focused on street wear, urban fashion, and denim. Chic will also cooperate with C-Star, the Asian version of the Euroshop trade show, for the first time. C-Star will have its own lounge area within the Chic trade fair. 18th to 20th of March 2015, www.chiconline.com.cn

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Gallery

The "Botschaft" located in "Cecilienallee" remains a central element of the Gallery trade show.

Focused on "Botschaft"

Last season there were three venues; in winter there will only be two. For the upcoming Gallery trade show towards the end of January 2015, the Igedo Company has decided to focus on the established event location “Botschaft”, located in Düsseldorf’s “Cecilienallee”, and the “Rheinlandsaal” in the local Hilton hotel. The latter venue will be dedicated to festive fashion. The “Hammer Halls” in the harbour are no longer part of the event. “We would have liked to tap into the history of the ‘Hammer Halls’, but the buyers are reluctant to travel too far within the city”, says Ulrike Kähler, the director of national trade shows at Igedo Company.

All future activities will be centred on the “Botschaft” location, which will also undergo a conceptual transformation. The premium label exhibitors from the harbour will move to the so-called “Golden Area”, which will house fashion agencies such as Hinterhofagentur and D-Tails, with labels like Atos Lombardini, Duvetica, Cardesse, and Borelli.

“We offer the agencies and their clients the opportunity to utilise their exhibition space as a temporary showroom before and after the event”, Kähler explains. The so-called “Silver Area” is reserved for exhibitors that already populated the “Botschaft” previously. These exhibitors include Anett Röstel, Dunque, Rundholz Black Label, Thanh Minh, and Ümit Ünal. In the courtyard of the building visitors can view and order accessories in a temporary building erected within the new “White Area”. Overall, Gallery showcases approximately 500 brands. The total exhibition space, including the new accessories area, is roughly 7,000 square metres, which is merely an approximate 1,000 square metres less than the three locations offered last year.

“Düsseldorf is an immensely important order factor due to its central location”, Kähler says. “The services we offer to agencies and brands take that status into account.”

Creating shorter distances within the event is a positive first step. 30th of January to 2nd of February 2015, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

BMH-WERBEAGENTUR.DE

herbst winter zWANZiG fUEnf zehn PREMIUM BERLIN 19.01.- 21.01.2015

STAND H7G09 LUCKENWALDERSTR. 4-6 10963 BERLIN

CIFF

29.01.- 1.02.2015 STAND C1- 009A BELLA CENTER CENTER BOULEVARD 5 DK - 2300 COPENHAGEN S

DÜSSELDORF

SUPREME WOMEN & MEN 31.01.-2.02.2015 UNITED FASHION RATHER STRASSE 49E I 2.OG 40476 DÜSSELDORF

MÜNCHEN

SUPREME WOMEN & MEN 14.02.- 17.02.2015 AGENTUR MARTIN STECKEL C/O ROLF GRIESINGER INTERNATIONAL MODE GMBH AM KOSTTOR 1 80538 MÜNCHEN

www.bloom-fashion.c om

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Paltò It Runs in the Family…

Garment Project Stay Calm and Wear Sneakers

Mountain Force Studio Also Off Piste

Approximately 25 years ago, Mauro Paganelli teamed up with a few friends to found the Italian fashion company G&P Net, out of which the jacket brand Peuterey emerged in the early 2000s. This spin-off became incredibly successful, as his son Luca was able to witness first hand. The son went on to study fashion in Florence and London between 2001 and 2004, worked at Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford in London until 2008, and then decided to join the family business for good. Now Luca Paganelli has established his very own brand: Paltò. The brand name is derived from the now rarely used term “Paletot”, which describes a coat and/or cape. Accordingly, Paltò offers coats for men and women. This doesn’t sound particularly spectacular in itself, but the young businessman puts so much effort in the construction (yes, he uses the term “construzione”) of his models to ensure they have the flair we know so well from films involving the likes of Robert de Niro or Jean-Paul Belmondo, as well as impressions we know from the life stories of musical geniuses such as Mick Jagger and John Lennon. He sees the coat as a stylistic device. It can be draped, worn casually, or express sincerity when worn tight. This is what Paganelli wants his coats to embody and has chosen “distinguished” as the word that best describes his creations. The retail prices range from 390 to 590 Euros.

Luna s.r.l., Altopascio/Italy, T 0039.0583.20325, info@palto.it, www.palto.it

The high standards of an experienced designer are what make a pair of sneakers a real all-rounder. The brand appearance is defined by the typical Scandinavian ability to communicate an idea quietly rather than loudly. “We liked the simple elegance and the timeless, clean chic of the collection. The excellent price/performance ratio was particularly persuasive. Kent Madsen makes quality his priority. All sneakers are made of grain leather”, says Susann Nuru, who discovered Garment Project for her Munich-based agency Select Trading at the Gallery trade show.

Starting next season, Select Trading will distribute the men’s and women’s collection from Denmark in the German-speaking markets. “With retail prices ranging from 100 to 180 Euros, we serve the entry level of the mid to upper price segment. It is our aim to approach retailers selectively and to, as a first step, focus on selected image stores.”

Garment Project, Copenhagen/ Denmark, kent@garmentproject.com, www.garmentproject.com

Mainly known for its high-end skiwear, Mountain Force introduced its Studio collection two years ago to gain a foothold in the urban environment. The self-declared goal of transferring the functionality of its mountain line into the city will become even more important for the brand in the future. Therefore, the Studio line will be expanded for the autumn/winter 2015 season and will be, for the first time, showcased at both the ISPO in Munich and the Premium in Berlin. The collection, which is renewed once a year, consists of outerwear, jogging pants, and light shirts. Many are cross-over items that can be worn all year and combined with pieces from other collections. With retail prices ranging from 190 to 300 Euros for knitwear and 330 to 900 Euros for outdoor jackets, the Studio collection is firmly positioned in the premium segment.

The calculation factor stands at 2.6. The unique blend of technical and fashionable aspects means that Mountain Force Studio feels at home in sports and fashion stores alike.

Mountainforce GmbH, Salzburg/Austria, T 0043.662.265047, sabine.weissbacher@mountainforce.com, www.mountainforce.com

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www.alberto-pants.com

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Lolaandgrace Full of Optimism and Vitality

MDK Soft Bikers

Hot Lava Made with Love

Now that’s an impressive family tree! The label Lolaandgrace, which was founded in 2012, is part of the Swarovski Group. The jewellery brand strives to appeal to independent and self-confident women, who want to underline their individuality with fashionable accessories.

The two collections per year include various lines with a distinct “match & mix” character and can be, if needed, expanded to react to new trends. Retail prices ranging from 20 to 60 Euros place the label in the higher price segment, but also guarantee the excellent quality of this product range. Lolaandgrace has already muscled its way into a number of European stores. Its own online shop, which covers 21 countries, and numerous renowned customers from the travel retail industry mean that Lolaandgrace also has a strong foothold beyond the stationary retail world. The label uses the trade shows Baselworld and TFWA (Singapore and Cannes) as presentation platforms.

Swarovski Digital Business USA Inc., Rhode Island/US, T 001.888.2079873, sales@lolaandgrace.com, www.lolaandgrace.com 04

Stina Christa Engel Busk, a talented designer from Denmark, believes that the leather jacket is the perfect all-season product. It can be worn with outfits for every occasion and, at the same time, has the ability to give every look a special twist. Her collection for Munderingskompagniet (short MDK), which consists of 80 to 100 items, is focused on the leather jacket as a central style item, complemented by individual leather skirts, trousers, and dresses.

At the Gallery trade show in Copenhagen, MDK’s clear, uncomplicated design language managed to win over Munich-based agency Select Trading as the new distribution partner for the German-speaking countries. “We were convinced by the attractive price/ performance ratio of the products, the beautifully soft leather quality, and the collection’s degree of uncomplicated fashionability”, says Select Trading’s Susann Nuru. MDK, with purchase prices ranging from 120 to 180 Euros, has already gained a strong foothold in the upscale specialised retail industry.

This is a healthy base on which the Select Trading team hopes to build on in the future.

MDK, Copenhagen/Denmark, stinebusk@mail.dk, www.munderingskompagniet.com

Netherlands-based label Hot Lava stands for colourful summer fashion made from natural fair trade materials. The small quantities of products are made by hand. Shells, pebbles, and sequins prove that the tunics, blouses, dresses, and skirts are influenced by the exotic.

The purchase prices range from 32 to 45 Euros with a convincing calculation ratio of 2.7.

Sandals and accessories complete the product range, whereby the purchase prices for this product group range from 19.50 to 37.50 Euros.

Clothing sizes from 92 (children) to 54 (women) and shoe sizes from 21 to 46 appeal to a broad audience, which explains why Hot Lava has not only built a fan base in the Netherlands, but in other far away countries too. The brand uses the trade shows Modefabriek Amsterdam and Premium Berlin as its presentation platforms.

In the German-speaking regions, Hot Lava is stocked by the likes of Ortner Dortmund, Reyer Hallein, and Englhaus Kitzbühel.

Hot Lava, Den Haag/The Netherlands, T 0031.70.3463640, info@hot-lava.nl, www.hot-lava.nl

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GDS-ONLINE.COM

DÜSSELDORF 4 – 6 FEB 2015 29– 31 JUL 2015

ALL IMPORTANT TRENDS. ALL STRONG BRANDS. IN A FIRST-CLASS ENVIRONMENT. SUPPORTED BY:

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Freedomday The Inner Values Count

Ayasse Luxury for Bipeds & Quadrupeds

Hancock New British Rainwear

Enjoy living your life in complete freedom.

This slogan is expressed by every exceptional jacket model created by Freedomday, a label of Italy-based Max Moda Company. The recipe: high-quality parkas in typical Italian design, seven colours for women and men respectively, with or without fur hood, and - last but not least - a secret ingredient that sets Freedomday apart from its competitors. In this case, the focus is not on the exterior of the parka, but on the interior. Every lining sports a different graphical motif, such as landscapes or people. This creativity and love for detail justifies purchase prices that range from 99 to 129 Euros. The two annual collections are presented in selected showrooms and certain models can be re-ordered. The distribution in Germany and Austria starts with the spring/summer 2015 season.

Max Moda srl, Gallarate/Italy, T 0039.0331.076532, info@max-moda.com, www.max-moda.com 07

The label Hancock specialises in the manufacture of luxurious trench coats and raincoats made of rubber-coated cotton. The collection for men and women, which consists of approximately 30 items, is meticulously handcrafted in Scotland. The main focus of the founders, Daniel Dunko and Gary Bott, is on sleek silhouettes and the modern interpretation of traditional details. In addition to the classic models with belts, the brand also offers A-line coats for women, blousons for men, and many different types of collars and button tapes. The colour spectrum includes classic shades, loud mono-tones, and even extravagant all-over patterns. The retail prices range from 650 to 1,100 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.8. The label name is based on Thomas Hancock, the founding father of the British rubber industry, who, with the assistance of Charles Macintosh, developed a double-textured and extremely water repellent fabric in 1825. Hancock’s customer list includes stores such as Barneys in New York, United Arrows in Tokyo, Timothy Everest and Ace in London, Tenue de Nîmes in Amsterdam, and Soto in Berlin. The shoe collection in collaboration with the Converse First String Series will be continued this year. A new addition to the autumn/winter 2015 season is a collection in cooperation with the shirt specialist Salvatore Piccolo. Hancock products can be viewed at the Pitti Uomo trade fair and, by arrangement, in the Milan-based showroom.

Thomas Hancock & Co, Cumbernauld/Scotland, T 0044.7880.746265, gary@HancockVA.com, www.HancockVA.com

The label Ayasse introduces a very special kind of up-cycling, utilising a highly unusual raw material: fish skins that are actually a by-product of the food industry. However, Tina Fricke, the creative director of Ayasse, insists that the skins, whether from a ray, salmon or sea bass, are anything but inconspicuous. She transforms the fish skins into attractive accessories such as bags, bracelets, and purses, as well as colour-coordinated collars and leashes for dogs. Artful metallic effects, polished surfaces, and snug textures are but a few characteristics of the unusual products. The accessories range is exclusively produced in German workshops.

“Here I find craftsmen who craft the products with great attention to detail”, Fricke says. Before opting for professional autonomy, she was the head of creative management at Boss Orange Woman. Today, the line consists of no less than 25 items with purchase prices ranging between 25 and 100 Euros for small leather goods and between 140 and 500 Euros for bags. Ayasse has already netted customers like Quartier 3neun on the island of Sylt and Studiotique in Stuttgart.

Studio Ayasse GmbH, Stuttgart/ Germany, T 0049.711.12157952, mail@studio-ayasse.com, www.studio-ayasse.com

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fracomina.it

19/21 JANUARY HALL 1 STAND 1.12

ACO Modeagentur t +49 (0)211 5425630 info@acomode.de

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B36 Legendary Bomber Jackets

King Baby Studio The Celebrity Jeweller

Pretorian Los Angeles Never Give Up!

The B36 long distance bombers of the US Air Force - also known as the Peacemakers - went down in history. This flair of flickering blackand-white films, the droning noise of engines, the scent of kerosene in the air, and tough lads with aviator hats and bomber jackets is the basis for B36, a collection by Munich-based designer Valentino de Luca. He designed a jacket that is accurately based on the original bomber jackets from the 40s, but has a modern, contemporary touch due to the use of high-end Italian fabrics, contrast stitching, quilting, and cuffs. The B36 model for men is available in five colours and will be presented for the first time at the Premium trade show in Berlin by Moderaum Fischer, Lars Fischer’s fashion agency. The collection will initially be distributed solely in Germany and expand from there step by step.

Instead of offering a complete and comprehensive Lucky de Luca collection, Valentino de Luca decided to establish an individual brand for every product group, thereby ensuring that every theme is awarded a maximum of independence, attention, and brand DNA. With B36, he has now added jackets to his portfolio.

Valentino de Luca, Eching/Germany, valentino@luckydeluca.com, www.luckydeluca.com

Ever since the turn of the millennium, Mitchell Binder’s King Baby Studio, located in the Californian city of Santa Monica, has been the focal point for bikers, rock stars, and Hollywood actors seeking a more provocative kind of extravagant silver jewellery. Binder’s necklaces, rings, bracelets, and key chains for men and women, whether with lily, heart, rose, or cross motifs, are all made of solid 925 sterling silver, and have a very distinctive character.

When Binder turned his back on his hometown Jackson (Mississippi) in the “Summer of Love” of the 1970s, he simply followed Route 66 to Los Angeles, where he committed himself to a real rock & roll lifestyle. He started his goldsmith career at the tender age of 15 and soon started designing his own collections. Today, King Baby Studio collaborates with cult brands such as Harley Davidson, Fender Guitars, and Robin’s Jean. The brand now has flagship stores in Santa Monica, Las Vegas’ legendary Caesar’s Palace, and Nashville. The entire range of jewellery is hand-made in the US. The retail prices for bracelets, necklaces, and pendants start at 100 Euros. The new additions to the range include items with onyx beads or volcanic rock.

King Baby Studio, Los Angeles/US, T 001.615.2484318, customerservice@kingbabystudio.com, www.kingbabystudio.com

A familiar face has returned with a new project: Christian Audigier. After the huge successes of van Dutch and Ed Hardy, the Frenchman now plans to conquer North America, Europe, and the rest of the world with Pretorian, a martial arts label. Pretorian was founded in Brazil by businessman Ruy Denver, who now acts as licensor. Audigier decided to start off with a t-shirt line for men with approximately 20 motifs in sizes M to XXXXL, as well as a one-size adaption for women. All products are produced in the US. The retail prices range from 59 to 79 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.6. The collection for autumn/winter 2015 includes sweatshirts for the first time. Many superstars of the Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) scene are already wearing the t-shirts. MMA is a modern form of full-contact combat sport. The collection was first offered to retailers at the Project trade show in Las Vegas. The brand also opened its first flagship store on North Western Avenue in Los Angeles. The t-shirts, printed on both sides, sport bold slogans such as “I can and I will”, “Your workout is my warm up”, “Fighter”, “Trust no one”, “Heavyweight”, and “Never give up”, mostly in combination with the label’s logo, a drawn Praetorian helmet. The head protection of the Roman emperors’ guard unit symbolises the brand philosophy and stands for humility, tenacity, bravery, and self-sacrifice, but also for grandeur, self-confidence, and pride.

Pretorian, Los Angeles/US, T 001.323.4621958, info@pretorianlosangeles.com, www.pretorianlosangeles.com

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New challenge Christian Audigier aims to conquer the world with Pretorian.

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cIFF

coPenHagen

Hot I

cPD FasHIon Week cPM DüsselDorF Moskau

Hot II

FasHIon

PreMIère

Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG // Houbirgstraße 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +43 (0) 664 4 12 35 17 // E-Mail: h.kitzler@carlgross.com // cg-club-of-gents.com

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Karta l‘Originale The Bomb!

Otter Wax Completely Natural

Inspired by the bomber jackets of the 1980s, the Italian label Karta l’Originale specialises in modern street wear made of functional Tyvek. The two collections per year do not only impress customers with the light and durable material, but also with a diverse choice of colours and patterns. The label also proudly wears its “Made in Italy” badge. The purchase prices for the unisex items for children and adults range from 45 to 60 Euros; the calculation factor stands at 2.65. The five bestsellers of the range can be reordered at any time. Karta l’Originale has already established itself in its home country Italy, and is stocked by stores such as Tessabit Como, and Traffic Naples, as well as by La Rinascente in Milan, Rome, and Florence. New products are presented at the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show in Florence.

As of the spring/summer season of 2015, Karta l’Originale will be expanding its activity sphere to Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The first eager customers include Bungalow Stuttgart, Francoise Kaiserslautern, Ortner Dortmund, and the online shop Conleys.

Karta l’Originale, Rimini/Italy, T 0039.0541.414125, info@kartaoriginale.com, www.kartaoriginale.com

The Otter Wax brand from Portland (Oregon/US) was founded a couple of years ago to provide an “all natural” alternative to conventional paraffin-based waxes (paraffin is obtained from petroleum). The Heavy Duty Fabric Wax offers consumers the possibility to make their textiles water resistant naturally, without the use of paraffin, silicone, distillates, or any other synthetic or possibly toxic additives. The water repellent wax is obtained by boiling shorn sheep’s wool. The Otter Wax product range now also includes wax jacket cleaners, liquid hot wax, leather soap, leather wax, and leather oil. All aforementioned products are based on natural additives such as bee’s wax and lanolin. None of the Otter Wax products contains mink oil or foot oil, which are obtained by slaughtering animals. Incidentally, the otter is merely the inspiration, emblem, and namesake of the brand due to its water-repellent fur. The little animal does not provide any additives used in the Otter Wax products.

Otter Wax LLC, Portland, Oregon/US, wholesale@otterwax.com, www.otterwax.com

Lou Lou London Continental Charm

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French name, British style, Italian taste - Lou Lou London proves what a great combination this is. The play with contrasts is not limited to the name, but can also be seen in the two annual collections of the Italian label. Lou Lou London’s creations are characterised by clear lines, high quality materials, and various patterns and colours. The result is women’s fashion with a continental allure and convincing purchase prices ranging from 28 to 49 Euros.

The collections can be viewed in selected showrooms. So are we looking at clothing that connects France, England, and Italy on a fashion level? Lou Lou London simply loves following its self-proclaimed “new way of fashion”. Well-known German stores like Lodenfrey Munich, Robert Ley Cologne, and Engelhorn are not the only ones willing to come along for the ride.

Cart Consulting Fashion Club, Treviso/Italy, T 0039.0422.210585, info@cartconsulting.com, www.cartconsulting.com

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Lulu DK West Coast Charm

Tessitori Seams? Out of Date…

Picture Organic Clothing Creative Trio

The temporary tattoo designs by US artist and designer Lulu deKwiatkowski, who is currently conquering Europe with her brand Lulu DK, have topical names such as Love Story, La Femme, Golden I, High Noon, and Blue Lagoon. The waterproof gems, in fine shades of silver and gold, are manufactured stateside in Los Angeles. They are easy to apply, easy to remove, and last for four to six days. The range includes, among others, bracelet-style tattoos, floral prints, and intricate letterings. Every set consists of two tattoo sheets, whereby the individual tattoo strips can be cut to size at will.

In Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, the retail prices of Lulu DK jewellery tattoos range from 29.90 to 34.90 Euros. Stores such as Standby Lindner in Dortmund, Adelsberger in St. Johann/Pongau, Fidelio in Zurich, and the online shop myclassico.com have already recognised the potential of these stylish temporary tattoos.

Lulu DK showcases its product range at the Premium Order trade show in Munich.

Lulu DK, New York/US, T 001.212.2234234, shop@luludk.com, www.luludk.com

The easiest way to describe the sneaker collection designed by Italian label Tessitori is to point out that the brand only has one model, but every pair is different nonetheless. To achieve this, Tessitori utilises a special Japanese textile machine and Jacquard fabrics.

The result is a light, form-fitting shoe without seams. The latter is made possible by a modern heat sealing technique. Ultimately the prints are what set the women’s and men’s models apart.

The special designs are inspired by the works of various artists. These designs are edited on the computer, and then finally manufactured using the aforementioned textile machine. Sneakers by Tessitori manage to unite handcraft and technology with a fashionable flair; they highlight what happens when experimentation and progress meet art and creativity. The sneakers are innovative quality products made in Civitanova Marche, Italy. The high quality standard justifies a retail price of 240 Euros. The sneakers are stocked by stores such as Einwaller in Innsbruck, De Rode Loper in Den Haag, and Paul Warmer in Amsterdam.

Progettoshowroom, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.5464324, info@progettoshowroom.it, www.progettoshowroom.it

Three friends form the backbone of Picture Organic Clothing, an outdoor brand from France.

The company was founded in 2008 by Julien Durant, Jérémy Rochette, and Vincent André in Clermont-Ferrand. Their vision was to create a young and contemporary board sports brand with a strictly sustainable approach, but without compromises regarding design. The majority of the jackets, shirts, and trousers are made of recycled polyester or sustainable materials such as organic cotton. Even technically sophisticated items like ski helmets, backpacks, and boards follow the same philosophy. The brand has developed three collections for men, women, and children: Expedition (outerwear and free ride), Adventure, and Friends (fashion). The colourful product range is complemented by accessories such as hats, leggings, gloves, helmets, and backpacks. Today, the team consists of 17 employees, and the brand only recently appointed Gerald Matter as an international sales manager. Picture Organic Clothing already supplies more than 500 retailers in 19 countries.

The list of international customers includes the likes of Zero G in Chamonix, Blues Ski in the UK, Eastside and Sport Scheck in Germany, and Blue Tomato in Austria.

Picture Organic Clothing, Clermont-Ferrand/ France, T 0033.473267543, gerald.matter@picture-organic-clothing.com, www.picture-organic-clothing.com

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VISIT US

H3-A10

FA S H I O N E N G I N E E R I N G www.g-lab.com / info@g-lab.com / +49 211 43 61 67 0

LIBERTY New York / PREMIUM Berlin / MODEFABRIEK Amsterdam / REVOLVER Copenhagen / JACKET REQUIRED London

Sven Hansen (left) and Stephan Schneider lead the way. Humour is an integral part of Conleys’ business model.

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THE LONGVIEW 073

"It's Easy to be Boring" When Stephan Schneider started scouring the fashion fairs in 1995 for brands that suited his new Conleys concept, he was perceived as a bit of an eccentric. His primary doctrine was to raise catalogue-based retailing to a new level, to reinvent it completely so to speak.

Today, the catalogue is a legend and Conleys is a brand.

Stephan Schneider and Sven Hansen met with style in progress to reveal how this was made possible. The most important ingredients in the recipe for success are ballsy buying decisions, lots of gut feeling, and the courage to do everything differently than others.

Interview: Stephan Huber.

Text: Isabel Faiss.

Potos: Timmo Schreiber

Are stationary stores really medieval?

Sven Hansen: No, they are not.

But the way they are currently set up, some of them really are quite antiquated. There are tremendous opportunities to retrofit with new technologies, to promote more proximity to customers, and to make the stationary retail industry more attractive in general. However, I do believe that too many market participants were asleep for quite a while and rested on their laurels while sitting on high horses.

The industry is nonetheless not medieval, there is too much potential in specialised retailing for that.

Stephan Schneider: I think one needs to evaluate the situation completely differently nowadays.

On the one hand, we have a distance trade, no matter whether online or catalogue-based, or whether via brochures or TV. The customers have the items delivered to their homes, where they can try them on, or show them to their respective spouses and friends, in a private setting.

I think this will play a fairly large role in the future. The shopping experience offered by upscale stationary retailers - not the procurement aspect, which has shifted to e-commerce - is far from being antiquated, as long as

said experience remains the main focal point. I think we will still see a real surge in this respect.

The heavily charged term multi-channel, or even omni-channel, only means that customers ultimately prefer different days, different names, and different ways to do their shopping. I really love going shopping, but I still buy most items online. The latter is simply procurement. If I know that a particular pair of trousers fit, then I really don’t have to run off to get them. Most retailers, especially in Germany, haven’t fully understood the shopping experience concept yet. They still follow a classic procurement retailing philosophy.

Doesn’t the online trade also profit from the fact that older target groups, who did not grow up with Internet access, still perceive it as a somewhat exotic experience?

Stephan Schneider: Online retailers currently offer the experience of functionality and variety.

For example, it is fairly easy to whittle down a range of 160,000 items in a matter of seconds.

These are two new forms of experience. We have the previously unknown technical aspect of sorting on the one hand, and the huge variety of available items on the other. When I walk into a restyle in progress 115

074 THE LONGVIEW

"I wanted new thinking.

I wanted to approach the business with slightly naive creative people and reinvent everything." Stephan Schneider

tail store and find a brand I like, then that store may only have three pairs of trousers in stock, possibly even none in my size.

So I simply google the brand and its online shop gives me instant access to 20 different models in all sizes. The impact of this experience will certainly wane the more we get accustomed to it.

Furthermore, the online industry needs to start adding some emotion, which leads to major challenges and issues. The online sector has so far not managed to emotionalise its business successfully. The retail industry can offer a certain smell, it occupies actual space, and has personal contact.

It has so much more possibilities on an emotional level.

Why do you cling to a business model that has probably caused a lot of self-declared experts to question the sanity of printing on so much paper?

Sven Hansen: 15 years ago, quite a lot of people thought that the Internet would disappear again.

The customers face different situations over and over again. If I shop online, then I need to make an active decision. I pick up my laptop and visit a website. That’s where I get information or even inspiration. This is a completely voluntary process. A catalogue affords me the same possibility, but it is delivered to my home.

If I like the look of it, I can leaf through it when I have time and feel like doing so.

Stephan Schneider: The basic principle of a catalogue retailer has very little in common with online shopping or purchasing items at stationary retailers. In this respect, stationary retailing and online shopping have much more in common. The customers decide when they enter a specific store. They need to decide what they want in advance and 115 style in progress

then might find some kind of inspiration on the way there.

The catalogue is delivered to the home. It triggers completely different emotional stories and the catalogue itself decides when it reaches the customer. It is not possible to send a retail store to a customer. I can also not force a customer to switch on a laptop. However, a catalogue is an emotional inspiration right in front of the customer. It is the door opener, so to speak. The order itself is then mostly placed via the online shop. However, I do not know whether classic catalogue-based retailers have actually managed to turn into online shops. Although they all have an online shop as a channel for ordering, the real question is where the order actually comes from. Does it come from online marketing channels such as Affiliate? Or does it come from the catalogue?

Cross Channel is the current “it-word” of our industry. How do you define that term for your company? After all, you are one of the few who already serve all channels.

Sven Hansen: We scrapped our experiment with stationary sales areas. The plan was to sell our private brand in shop corners, but that isn’t our metier and it simply didn’t work, mainly because we had the wrong approach.

Stephan Schneider: It’s quite possible that we may give this another try. However, our current “switch” is that the catalogue has to be in line with the online presence. The online retail industry still has to learn things like customer acquisition, awareness, and branding. Companies that generate a turnover between 50 and 80 million Euros solely via an online shop, find

it very difficult to reach enough customers via online branding and advertising. This means that our catalogue is a tremendous asset from an economical point of view, and it presents us with an opportunity to build on that platform online. Currently, the catalogue is more efficient than online advertising. We still question ourselves whether our online shop is already good enough. No, it isn’t yet. There’s still so much potential. Do we spend our advertising budget on catalogues? Yes, we do, because that’s the more lucrative option.

Our approach as a catalogue company is to learn what one needs to know to be successful online. If we spent as much on branding as the likes of Zalando, then the approach would definitely be different.

How do you perceive your own company? Do you perceive it as a specialised retailer?

Stephan Schneider: We are a retailer in the classical sense.

Many of our principles and challenges are the same as the ones of the stationary retail industry. We have been generating profits since 1999, in a very classic manner too. We need to change constantly, and we grow moderately within the context of what we can finance. We don’t grow 136% this year and another 70% in the next. We could easily spend 50 million Euros on TV adverts to generate faster growth, but then we wouldn’t be making profits anymore.

Who had the idea for Impressionen? Was it a woman or a man with the gift of understanding women?

Stephan Schneider: Impressionen was created in the same meeting

as Conleys itself. There was a brainstorming session to which two “odd birds” were invited, namely Bettina Kawall, who was then the advertising director of Schneiders Werbemittel, and I myself. We had three ideas: Hobbykoch, Impressionen, and Conleys. The latter was based on the notion that one should try and bring cool outdoor fashion into urban areas. We worked on all three ideas, but we eventually decided that Mrs Kawall should focus on Impressionen, while I focus on Conleys.

There are quite a few myths about the launch of Conleys.

Am I wrong when I say that you were merely curious and convinced of your business idea?

Stephan Schneider: Our starting position was not exactly easy.

Back then, it was extremely difficult to find high-end products in catalogues. There were a few good concepts that served specific niche markets, but in a completely different context. Fashion catalogues predominantly offered items procured via the grey market, or badly copied brands. That’s why it was so interesting when we started. I had three apprentices, and flatly refused to hire experts such as a chief buyer or an outright mail order specialist.

If I had brought in experts, we would have followed the same path as all the others. I wanted to approach the business with slightly naive creative people and reinvent everything. In those days, it was quite uncommon to photograph products as stills.

There’s one story that claims we didn’t have enough money for models. However, I simply believed the simplicity of this

"We’ve always done what WE believed in, even when we were the only ones to believe in it." Stephan Schneider

076 THE LONGVIEW

form of presentation was more suitable for high-end products.

Those simple photos were our basic concept. I started roaming around trade fairs with this idea and approached brands. We were the eccentrics and it was so much fun. That was in 1995. We started off very small and it was highly important to us to avoid turning into a “me too” product.

We didn’t have a database of 15 million addresses like Otto, we didn’t have a single address. Furthermore, we only had a start-up budget of two million German Marks for the first three years.

Otto had everything we didn’t, so we knew that anything we do cannot be what Otto already does. We always did what we believed in, even when we were the only people to believe in it.

How can this philosophy be transferred to the online segment?

Stephan Schneider: That’s exactly what we have to figure out now.

We’re only just beginning to emancipate ourselves and to realise that the online business is not as complicated as nuclear physics or open-heart surgery. Our approach is to listen to the gut feeling department and to see what we think when we ourselves are the customers. Just implement it, no matter if it is written down differently somewhere, or whether some consultant has a different opinion. There really is no sense in discussing gut feelings and entrepreneurial courage with consultants and experts, mainly because I cannot prove that an idea is good in

advance without implementing it. I cannot present figures, I have no basis for discussion. I can only say that my gut tells me to do it. My gut is not wrong in 51% of cases. We don’t believe in doing things half-heartedly. We always push ahead at full pelt, and we either hit the wall or find the tunnel that leads to the other side. We don’t approach an issue cautiously. We didn’t do that at the beginning and we have no intention of starting that now.

Isn’t the fact that one is no longer allowed to make mistakes one of the main problems of our entire industry, and of the buying departments in particular?

Stephan Schneider: Ultimately, my decisions as a buyer will always be wrong. In 50% of the cases, I will buy too many of the selected items, and too few in the other 50%. We buy every product, but not always in amounts that we would fail to shift.

Sven Hansen: At the end of the season, the classic buyer merely knows which items he had too many of. We print paper, which means our product range remains the same for half a year.

Even when one of our products is sold out, our customers can still see it on paper and therefore, in theory, it remains a part of our product range. That means that we still receive orders from all the customers who don’t know that the product is sold out.

These orders tell us how many units we could have sold and how many more we should have had in stock. This is our huge ad-

"I cannot present figures, I have no basis for discussion. I can only say that my gut tells me to do it. My gut is not wrong in 51% of cases." Stephan Schneider 115 style in progress

"When our catalogue is published, I know how the respective items will perform after no more than four days."

Stephan Schneider

vantage, because the fact that we know the actual demand means we can re-order our bestsellers.

From this we can learn a lot regarding the buying process.

Stephan Schneider: When our catalogue is published, I know how the respective items will perform after no more than four days. Once you have understood this principle, it is much easier to plan the product range than it is for the online trade. 80% of our goods don’t perform well. It’s the same principle as every other business model, you generate your profit with the other 20% of your product range. Once I know that, I can try and be successful with 100% of the goods, and then see which 20% actually generate the profit in the end. Of the 20% that perform well, we can predict approximately 75%.

So once we are able to define the best selling products within the product range, we can create a pool of 40% of the range, from which the best selling products will ultimately come. At the same time, this also means that at least 50% of the product range will not perform well. So why should I add chinos to that 50%, when I already have those in my secure pool anyway? And that’s exactly what we keep on telling our buying department: Colleagues, why not do something completely crazy with that 50% and buy stuff that nobody is likely to buy. The flip side is that everyone who leafs through the catalogue will remember it.

But surely the aim is to increase the percentage in favour of the top seller segment?

Stephan Schneider: When a buyer shows me his selection and I see that he has got all the commercial top sellers spot on, then I

tend to ask where his voluntary exercise is. Where is the more edgy stuff? Why don’t you try something different for a change?

Why don’t you show some courage? Sometimes our private brand implements projects of which everyone says that nobody will buy the items, but sometimes they do sell successfully all the same. Our private brands generate more than 40% of our turnover. Our main aim is to ensure that the customers enjoy the catalogue and the fashion it presents. A catalogue is architecture, it’s all about reading and browsing speed. In our capacity as the publisher of said catalogue, we need to decide how quickly we want our customers to leaf through it. It’s the same as when a supermarket defines the paths it wants its shoppers to follow. We have to stop and catch the customer. This is easier to achieve with extraordinary items. However, that means you have to take risks. It’s easy to be boring.

In the past, shopping was more about hunting than gathering. There’s too much of everything today already. What impact does this have on your product range concept?

Sven Hansen: Eight to ten years ago, Stephan and I travelled to LA to procure the smallest brands and accessories labels that weren’t available here yet. Today, that would be a completely pointless exercise, because total availability already starts with the smallest brands. Nevertheless, we still regularly introduce new discoveries to the market and combine some weird and wonderful things - that’s what Conleys stands for. Market research surveys award us top marks for

078 THE LONGVIEW

A small allusion to the legend surrounding the foundation of Conleys – apparently a conversation with Jack Conley, a taxi driver in New York, was the impetus for Stephan Schneider’s trend-setting concept.

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THE LONGVIEW 079

our product range. We regularly hear statements like: “They have brands nobody else has.”

Stephan Schneider: The new term for it is now “curator”, but we prefer to stick with terms like cherry picker or truffle pig. The people have to feel that you know what you’re doing, for every target group. Online shop operators like to think that the automated system of the Internet will soon be able to fragment target groups. That is absolute nonsense.

Sven Hansen: A good salesperson can identify the mood of customers and tap into that. This aspect could be refined online.

However, there’s still a long way to go until the emotional side is even close to what a salesperson can communicate via personal contact on the sales floor – if that is possible at all.

The online trade tries to recreate said personal contact by utilising computational models based on probability theories. Today, certain experts come out with theses that sound outlandish and completely logical at the same time. For example, some believe that the time you access the online shop is more important than gathering data about what you recently purchased. The male customer is completely different at 4.30pm on a Friday afternoon than at 10.30am on a Saturday morning. This is mathematics, plain and simple.

Is it true that 80% of all catalogues are thrown away within the first 20 minutes?

Stephan Schneider: Yes, that’s true. The challenge is to ensure that your catalogue is among the other 20%. It was always our aim to make sure that the Conleys catalogue finds a place on the living room table next to the coffee book. This means that we need to refrain from putting advertisements or prices on the cover. It needs to be elegant and a little pretentious.

The customers should feel that they have something that others don’t have. We would also like a place on the kitchen table, symbolically speaking, where the woman of the house relishes browsing through our catalogue while cooking. And the next stop is to reach the man of the house while he sits on the toilet. That’s

"The customers don’t expect perfection from Conleys. This catalogue is adored because it isn’t 'photoshopped'."

Sven Hansen

the reason why we put stories in our magazine. According to our calculations, the average “toilet sitting” lasts the time it takes to read three of such stories, so they need to be really good. We have hired a screenplay writer for that purpose. So far, we have written more than 1,600 short stories, and some of them got us into real trouble. I prefer an emotional statement, be it positive or negative, over indifference.

What has The Clash taught you for your life?

Stephan Schneider: You mean the band?

I like to get a little carried away when researching for an interview…

Stephan Schneider: Punk shows you the absolute freedom to do what you want without crossing others. But that’s how I see punk. I thought the music was awesome, but the message behind it is obviously an individual matter. I saw it as an opportunity to break out. The Clash did that for one year before publishing a record that was completely different. Many fans saw that as a betrayal of the movement, but I believe they simply evolved.

They were art students, not working class boys who needed to vent their aggression. I live by the principle that it’s ok to change when you feel like it, but you need to change in a credible way. That can be transferred directly to the Conleys concept.

I’ve always said that we need to change to remain the same. The

main reason is to ensure that our perception and appreciation among the customers remains the same, which means that we have to adapt. Seeing that one cannot plan such changes, but can only sense them when they happen, there is no patent remedy. In the case of The Clash, I thought the first album was just as awesome as the second and the third. I liked the change.

Everyone around me thought it was really shit. Today, The Clash is nearly as revered as John Lennon, because they were gifted musicians who did what they felt like year after year. I would like my employees to feel the same way.

In my opinion, the art of listening to your own intuition has become completely stunted in our industry, mainly because so many different instruments think everything through in advance. This phenomenon is even more noticeable on the Internet.

Sven Hansen: The online world, which we still need to develop both rationally and emotionally, can be tapped the easy way, which is the way everyone taps into it. This approach means that everyone is the same, but it also makes many unsuccessful.

Especially in times of crisis, we often noticed that we found out what needs to be changed after pondering the issues for a few days, talking to our wives at home, or leafing through the catalogue another six times.

When a situation is critical, the

experts appear with their answers for everything. We always do exactly the opposite, but not on principle. We ask ourselves what the problem is. It can only be the customers’ perception.

Everything else is factual, and can be analysed and corrected.

However, I cannot analyse the customers. I can only try to emulate. The best example to illustrate this is the catalogue we published to mark Conleys’ tenth anniversary. We wanted to produce the best catalogue ever in LA and put all our good ideas into it. It was by far the best catalogue we ever made, but it didn’t work. Why not, you ask?

It was simply too perfect. The customers don’t expect perfection from Conleys. This catalogue is adored because it isn’t “photoshopped”.

Stephan Schneider: That’s exactly the point. One needs to know how to tell your own story as briefly and concisely as possible, and know how that can be transferred into the online world.

You have to have the courage to consistently question whether a story can be stretched all the way to the online shopping basket, or whether it prevents a sale. The gut feeling clashes with science.

What you make of the situation depends on how much balls you have. It depends on whether you have the balls to do things differently at exactly the right moment. I believe that the history of many companies would look completely different, if they had chosen such an approach.

Thank you for the interview.

www.conleys.de

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Withdrawal instead of Overdose The fashion industry needs to break free from the death spiral of anabolic growth.

A An opinion piece by Stephan Huber

W

henever I travel into the mountains in the beautiful Lungau region with my family, we make a brief stop at the equally beautiful bakery/confectionery Hochleitner in Tamsweg. Normally we leave early in the morning. Last summer, we only managed to get there late in the afternoon.

But when I entered the wonderfully fragrant sales room at 5.30pm, my face dropped.

Where I am usually seduced by a tempting variety of fresh bread and pastries, I was now faced with the reality of almost empty shelves and display cases. I am also a child of the availability/abundance society, so I was a little grumpy at first.

However, it didn’t take long for the penny to drop somewhere at the back of my mind.

“HELLO!!! This shop is about to close. It HAS to be nearly sold out!” If the shelves of a bakery are still full in the evening, it would lead to a variety of conclusions, of which all are equally fatal. Either the baker fails to sell his pastries, pretzel sticks, or rye loafs because they are utterly terrible, or he simply made too many of them. Both scenarios mean that the baker has to throw away the surplus delicacies at the end of the day, or try and sell them at a considerable discount. Giving them away for free would at least be an incredibly popular solution, but every alternative is ultimately rather expensive. So being almost sold out at 5.30pm is the best case scenario. It means that his purchasing and production is spot on, as is his general business calculation. I actually found a

115 style in progress

really delicious morsel all the same.

Would Mr Hochleitner think like many in our industry, he would most likely increase the following day’s production volume of the rye-sourdough bread I initially asked for by 20 units. He probably would have 16 left over at the end of the day, which means he would be closing his shop in a rather foul mood. So it really is better to be sold out than to have too many goods. And if I’m smart, or if it’s important enough to me, I’ll simply ask him to reserve rye-sourdough bread for me next time. However, because there are only a few Hochleitners left, and because all the supermarkets and discount stores still “freshly bake” at 5pm, a city like Vienna throws away more bread every day than a city like Graz can eat. This isn’t just a moral problem. This is the reason why, in the mind of many consumers, bread and pastries are not worth more than a warmed up industrial dough ball, which can be used for self-defence purposes after an hour or so.

Anabolic Growth You think that is a daring analogy? I don’t agree in the slightest. The main problem of the fashion industry is easily summarised: TOO MUCH! There are too many products on too much sales area. This has been the case for many years. We have been experiencing the inevitable market-oriented - and psychological - consequences too: super-saturation of customers, devaluation of products, desperate price marketing, further super-saturation of customers, and further devaluation of products… Such spirals are only beauti-

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082 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS

ful when performed by a figure skater.

The deadly spiral in the fashion industry has led to the senselessly and randomly stuffed Primark shopping bags. It has led to clothing being perceived as a disposable product. This isn’t an unlucky freak development, but it’s actually the result of a very clear plan. The plan was “growth at all costs”. This isn’t an invention of the fashion industry, but a principle that is harmful in all business segments. Don’t get me wrong, growth is important. The entrepreneurial ambition to grow is a continuous and necessary innovation motivator. However, if growth for the sake of growth alone becomes the dominant goal, then it’s like bodybuilding on anabolic steroids. Artificial inflation is followed by euphoria due to fast results. But it doesn’t take long for the first pimples to appear. And at some point the liver is wrecked. And the hair starts falling out…

“Shopping Experience” in Regional Airports The anabolic logic of the fashion industry could be defined as follows: if we offer consumers more products more often, then they will buy more products more often. Just like with anabolic steroids, this actually worked for a while.

After all, this concept of “more products - more often” was initially new and exciting. Most importantly, it was also affordable! Finally, it even led to “the democratisation of luxury”, which meant that consumers had a chance to buy more high-end products more often too. Seeing that this strategy proved to be so successful and everybody was talking about nothing else than growth potentials, the retailers were hell-bent on expanding their sales areas. Even the tiniest regional airports were transformed into shopping experiences. One shopping centre after the other attempted to lure customers, always with more of the same - and with loads of free parking spaces. After all, if this anabolic growth was supposed to continue, it was vital to have a tight grip on the customers at all times. Damn those opening hours! This is a bullet that online retailers, the ultimate exponential expansion of sales floors and product ranges so to speak, have dodged.

Our consumer society had finally reached its Elysion - nonstop shopping, during work, in the night, and on public holidays. 365/7/24! This was so innovative and revolutionary that it simply HAD TO

115 style in progress

work, right?!? Constant availability can, of course, be rather seductive. The lurking danger was obscured by a mist of euphoria for a fairly long time.

The Loss of Desirability When I visited New York for the first time, it felt like I was constantly eating something for the first couple of days, but not because I was hungry all the time. The culinary oversupply was simple too tempting for a small-town boy from Salzburg, and it was indeed extremely seductive, mainly because it was completely new for me. However, I was eventually supersaturated. Super-saturation is, in fact, the system inherent consequence of continuous “too much”.

The problem that is currently troubling our industry, manifested by persistently poor sales figures and rather uninspiring forecasts, is primarily a comprehensive super-saturation and, as a direct consequence, the loss of desirability.

If you have everything, you desire nothing. And if you have the feeling that you can buy everything, no matter if you actually need it or not, whenever you want at a reduced price, then you certainly don’t desire anything anymore at least not more of the same.

This is no attempt to hide other reasons for the current predicament. There’s too much bad news being dumped on us from all sides. There isn’t enough real wage growth. There are too many competitors struggling for lifestyle budgets. The fact that there are quite a few companies that manage to grow in this environment, some of them even as healthily and sustainably as everyone implores, doesn’t change the accuracy of this analysis. Some never turned their back on the principle of desirability, and others have already understood that growth cannot be an end in itself. And quite a few have decided to constantly increase their pill dosage, in the hope of triggering screams of joy for as long as possible. Nevertheless, the necessary response is inevitable. The fashion industry needs to kick its anabolic steroids habit. This won’t be easy.

Withdrawal is always associated with pain. Some won’t manage it. But I really don’t want to even consider the consequences of the alternative. Increasing the dosage ultimately always leads to an overdose.

–›

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We Need More Specialised Retailers!

We need more specialised retailers? That is certainly a fairly provocative statement, especially as the retail landscape is undergoing radical changes. However, we demand more specialised retailers with the utmost conviction, because we are not the only ones who value personal service, distinctiveness, and emotional shopping experiences. We introduce a couple of major players, who are reinventing themselves without putting their DNA at stake.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: interview partners.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler

It is 8am. Lars Braun is at the airport, on the way to Milan for ordering purposes. He has just received a phone call from his architect; the opening of the new Braun store will probably need to be delayed by a week. That’s annoying. Nevertheless, the entrepreneur from Hamburg is in good spirits. He knows that good things come to those who wait.

The new Braun store, which is quasi his baby and also the largest investment in the company’s history, will set new standards in terms of menswear in a luxurious setting. Its impact will not only be felt in Hamburg.

Put to the Test

Today, investments in the stationary specialised retail industry appear more difficult and braver than ever. Quite a few long-established retailers are closing down, thereby paving the way for the all too familiar vertical desolation. The online business is booming and - together with discount outlets - stealing an ever-growing share of sales. The old recipes for success are no longer successful. The landscape of the city centres is swiftly changing accordingly; it is increasingly dominated by monoculture. A digital start-up is currently so much sexier than the opening of a multi-brand store, especially for the banks. The latter are not making life easier for fashion retailers. “The retail trade no longer generates sufficient yields to finance the high rental fees for stores in the inner city”, Lars Braun explains. “It’s much easier to finance the rental payments with mono-brand stores, which cash in twice the margins. Such

businesses make sales-based rents of 15% acceptable; that’s hardly affordable for multi-brand retailers.”

Courage to Change

Nevertheless, the fashion business still has a few top retailers in its ranks. They make their mark and are willing to expand. It does not only require entrepreneurial foresight, but also sufficient expertise, to create a product range that is well-selected and tailored to the needs of the customers. “We have never been a brand collector”, Braun says. “I only buy if the product itself is good.” His list of good products includes chinos and denim by Dondup, knitwear by Iris von Arnim, and the Mastercraft Union brand. “Sensational jeans, great fits and washes, and good labelling are the ingredients for fashion I personally enjoy.” This enthusiasm is passed on to his customers.

Hirmer is a specialist in men’s fashion for the upper middle class and is probably the largest retailer with such a selection worldwide. “All our decisions are based on the findings of the sales staff”, says Frank Troch, the chief executive of Hirmer. “We try to put together a product range that our customers want and need, which is why the department head is also the buyer. It was always vital to know your customers, and it still is.” However, Troch knows that a unique environment is just as important as a good product range and excellent staff. The enlarging renovation project, which was completed last autumn after six years of construction, cost no less

than 30 million Euros. The sales areas dedicated to shoes, country house fashion, and large sizes were expanded considerably. In addition, the company created lifestyle areas to complement the traditional departments: “Loft” for trendy upper casual wear, “Studio” for premium business clothing by the likes of Brioni and Zegna, and a brand-new department for urban outdoor attire.

The focus is no longer on standardised shop fitting, but on the creation of theme worlds to allow the customer to experience the respective fashion items.

The store now also houses a personal shopping area and a day bar. Most importantly, it also has a multi-channel concept, which enables the company to communicate with its customers via a variety of channels. Two major aspects of this concept are the online shop, which is mainly focused on the market niche for plus-size clothing, and the new 20 metre high video wall in Hirmer’s staircase. It may not be possible to sell fashion directly via Facebook, but it is possible to transport emotions via images, thereby reinforcing the Hirmer brand as a whole.

“We simply want to be the best host possible and to save our customers some time”, Troch summarises the issues closest to his heart. “In order to achieve this, we will introduce a string of additional services in the future.”

Touch screens in Hirmer’s new outdoor world already allow the customers to access the Internet, mainly for additional product information, alteration requests, and reservations. Troch is not the only one who considers style in progress 115

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interactive shop windows as a possibility to directly trigger purchase impulses in passers-by.

“An entrepreneur is defined by passion and visions. However, the requirements have become significantly more complex.”

Bravery Within Bounds

Franz Grasegger is also willing to face the new challenges, but within the bounds that are appropriate for Grasegger in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

Following a remodelling process that was finalised in October, the sales area has grown from 600 to 1,800 square metres. “We were aware that the staging at our PoS would suffer if we didn’t take action now”, the young businessman, who runs the store together with his father, explains. “We want to make a difference and invest very sensibly. I strongly believe in the renaissance of the classic retailer.” A contemporary interpretation of traditional costume clothing (“Trachten”) is the core competence of Grasegger. The store stocks brands such as Closed, Gant, and Luis Trenker, as well as some Italian highlights such as Rossana Diva for women and Tintoria Mattei for men. The combination of tradition and modernity in the product range is now also clearly visible in the store itself. The main building, which resembles a farmhouse with regional facade paintings, effortlessly merges with the new annex. The facade of the latter newly interprets a barn building with white plaster and wooden lagging. The interior puts a new spin on the authentic farmhouse parlour; it is both pleasant and contemporary. What a wonderful way to celebrate tradition!

Online - The Crucial Question

Does a successful retailer need an online shop? Lars Braun believes it is essential and says the customers expect a store of this calibre to have an online shop.

“Furthermore, such an online shop is an important factor in the competition for brands.”

Franz Grasegger thought long and hard, but ultimately decided against such a move. “In the fashion business in general and especially given the high return rates in Germany, I really don’t see an online shop as a panacea”, 115 style in progress

Grasegger explains. “Instead, we, as a specialised retailer, need to be more than experts in terms of our niche. To achieve this, I need a high level of expertise and curiosity. I want to understand the steps that are necessary before the fashion can go on display in my store. Which cuts are suitable for my customers? Which services can I offer? Much of it can be learned, but you do need a passion for the business too.”

Frank Troch, chief executive of Hirmer: “Multi-channel communication is the future. As a stationary retailer, I need to combine my strengths with the advantages of the digital world; then I can offer more than a mere online shop.”

New Blood? Self-Sufficiency Rules…

In many cases, the death of specialised retailers is owed to succession problems. It is no longer taken for granted that a family member steps up to take over the business. “A family-owned company requires a different way of thinking, by which I mean that one needs a very strong identification with the business itself ”, Frank Troch says. “At Hirmer, there are no leading employees who would refuse to work on a Saturday. I can learn so much about my customers on Saturdays.” The same level of commitment is expected from the sales staff on the floor.

There are enough applicants for training at Hirmer. Frank Troch currently doesn’t see it as

a problem that the number of applicants per year has dropped from 150 to 100. The company trains 18 sales employees per year and has a retention rate of 70% per year of training.

Hirmer is located in “Kaufingerstrasse”, which is in the pedestrian zone of Munich’s inner city. Frank Troch insists that the store enjoys - and will continue to enjoy - being in a prime location. “We believe in the inner city, but we are aware that the attractiveness of the location needs to be nurtured continually. This is a big challenge for politicians, retailers, gastronomy businesses, and culture venues alike”, he explains. “Cities need to be managed like brands, so monocultures created by, let’s say, the 27th vertical retailer

Frank Grasegger, chief executive of Grasegger: “An entrepreneur always has the longterm goal in sight, but never forgets his everyday business.” are to be avoided at all costs.”

Garmisch-Partenkirchen also quite deliberately revived its town centre, especially after the citizens voted against a shopping centre outside the city.

“Concentrated attractiveness is important”, says Franz Grasegger, whose store is one of the leading businesses in the town.

“We maintain a good communication with our tourism board, sports equipment retailers, and ski schools - it works like a treat.

The environment has to be right; that is absolutely essential.” Lars Braun’s second store in a prime location can also be interpreted

Lars Braun, chief executive of Braun: “I need to have a vision and see if it is commercially feasible without endangering my business. As a retailer, it is important to stay attractive for both customers and suppliers alike.” as a clear commitment to the city centre as a business venue.

The so-called “Kaisergalerie” is located within a newly developed shopping district around the “Neuer Wall” area. “Those who work in the inner city will continue to shop in stationary stores”, Lars Braun says. “There comes the time when customers have had enough of constantly unpacking cardboard boxes full of online purchases.”

It is a never-ending process to remain attractive as a stationary retailer. “Being an entrepreneur means to be courageous in moderation. I have to think about tomorrow and need to pursue my goals stringently”, Grasegger explains. “However, the visions and goals have to be far ahead to ensure that the business can make the most of its potential.”

Lars Braun shares this opinion: “Entrepreneurial success is never handed to you on a plate; you need to work a lot for it. You must be ready to dedicate yourself to that. But then, isn’t that the meaning of life to a certain extent?”

PREMIUM FASHION FAIR 19-21 JANUARY 2015 BERLIN STATION GAS BOOTH: KH-D 06 Showrooms M端nchen Select Trading Balanstr. 73, Haus 12 D端sseldorf ACO Modeagentur Josef-Gockeln-Str. 10

088 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS

“Shopping Needs to be an Experience” What does it take for a retailer to think and act like an entrepreneur? Christian Greiner, the chairman of Ludwig Beck, knows that it is necessary to show passion and the willingness to take risks to be successful. He is convinced that the stationary retail industry has a future, as long as it stays in motion. Christian Greiner explains his philosophy in our interview.

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photo: Ludwig Beck

Mr Greiner, Ludwig Beck opened an expanded 1,500 square metre department dedicated solely to menswear in autumn. Given the fact that men generally don’t tend to enjoy shopping, this is quite a bold statement…

We had been quite successful previously with our smaller fine menswear department. Men are showing an increased affinity to fashion, quality, and special brands. We aim to satisfy this need with our new sales area.

It is also a commitment to the stationary retail industry. After all, the remodelling cost approximately six million Euros.

Can this investment pay off?

If we were a company that is only looking for short-term success, then we probably wouldn’t have made the investment.

However, Ludwig Beck is a company that follows a long-term strategy, which is why we see it as an investment in our future.

We believe in the stationary retail industry, and we would be delighted if our actions inspire other retailers too.

Such investments are inherently easier to shoulder for seasoned retailers of a certain size. Accordingly, there aren’t many smaller pioneers out there.

Oh, there are always some brave people. The “Kauf Dich glücklich” concept is courageous and unconventional; anything out of the ordinary is exciting. It’s not enough to follow the same beaten track all the time. I try to keep my eyes open at all times to remain inspired. Curiosity is so important. That’s why I personally visit as many stores as possible.

However, the concept of a proper shopping experience has not yet arrived in many industries.

Do you have some examples for us?

The larger bookstore chains are often void of emotion. I’d like to see the return of little antiquarian stores, where the owner himself is in the shop and knows absolutely everything about his books. That has a certain charm.

Also, costume jewellery is often 115 style in progress

Even after Christian Greiner was appointed as chairman of Ludwig Beck in 2011, he never lost the ability to see the bigger picture. He is truly passionate about retailing and even works on the sales floor as often as his schedule allows.

presented in a completely boring and undemanding fashion. Only the luxury products and some mono-brand concepts are presented beautifully. As for the vehicle industry, BMW in Munich presents itself fantastically well.

However, the market segment below often doesn’t pay enough attention to additional features and the lifestyle aspect. One can choose between blue and grey, or between leather and fabric. And then one also needs to pay 500 Euros for the transfer. Electronics are also mainly sold via the price.

I recently visited an electronics store and actually spent quite a bit of money. At the checkout, I was asked whether I wanted to have a plastic bag for an additional ten Cents. My online order includes free delivery and I can even return it free of charge, but a store wants me to pay extra for a horrible plastic bag! I see this as a missed chance to turn a shopping trip into an experience.

Ludwig Beck has developed a packaging concept that utilises tissue paper, paper bags, and various stickers for fastening. Our customers are proud to leave the shop with these lovingly packaged goods. It may cost us a little more, but it does ensure that the customers’ lasting impressions are positive and valuable.

How do you see the future of other department stores?

I am extremely optimistic in that respect. Stores like Barney’s, Selfridges, and Bon Marché in Paris are proper tourist destinations that surprise their customers. They are brilliantly executed, have great employees, and offer their customers something new.

Those are the best examples of a true shopping experience.

Alongside his duties at Ludwig Beck, Christian Greiner also runs a small record label named consens music, acts as the chief executive of the creative agency Nuts Communication, and, in his capacity as general manager of Intro Retail & Media GmbH, invests in retail and media startups.

Š Roger Mayne/Museum of London

the B r a n d co m pa n i o n s visual Merchandising | Retail Window displays | Retail architecture | pos events | visual communication | digital solutions | production

We stand foR consistent RetaiL enviRonMents that

cReate a unique bRand expeRience foR the consuMeR and incRease saLes foR ouR cLients.

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...too little

oblems and Almost all the pr fashion industry e challenges of th m this pair of can be derived fro ogress asked: in pr opposites. style less of? ed ne e w do What ed more of? ne e And what do r,wMartina M端llner, be Text: Stephan Hu r.

Nicoletta Schape ine Seidler ia Meitert@Carol Illustrations: Claud

115 style in progress

h

WHAT'S THE STORY 091

opinion . MORE/LESS

ities. n tu r o p p O l a u q E

Eiall retail formats. l opportunities for s ua ow eq all re d we an s re es “I wish the ulatory madn away from this reg ing or at en ev the in s ue ther one breaks reven e ailers to generate g to spend, or on the stationary ret nsumers are willin co . the urs en ho s wh , es ds the weeken the usual busin line shops outside riced on erp ov the an wn y do bu I n uts sh t why ca a little absurd, bu am not allowed to That may sound n on Sunday if I tio sta l tro pe a to remain closed d ce tin of ravioli at for ing on that day? Be n hio fas e t online retailers as bu rch pu hion retailers hard, fas the s day. Afhit s ay on Sund sales on the same % of their weekly ailers can ret ry na tio often generate 50 sta w the talking about ho stem the decline ter all, we’re not t how they can bu , ue en rev re quency for the fre re generate mo mo ate We need to cre e the stores an giv to in sales figures. ive sales. We need sit po d it. When an es ntr city ce bility. Let’s face actually work? rease their profita a cost explosion, oid av to opportunity to inc ary ss ce stores open ne ing are o ep ke wh , of r rs” ou be finitely not in fav can the “mini job de ial for anam I fic d! ne en be t ek the we sing time are no clo er aft They can work on es ntr ce ad, extinct city 24/7, but the de .” yone

Henrik Soller

owner of Komet & Helden and Stereo Muc

Stop Moaning.

tion’; is better than ac motto ‘moaning the any. by rm e liv Ge to in em lly on, especia “Many people se complaining going for thinkch ce mu tan ins too y for y, wa there is re efficientl . used so much mo into opportunities That time could be n be transformed ca , ms try us ble ind pro ail ed eg the ret ing about how all ssive change of basic g about the progre . Change is in the se ca Everybody is talkin the en be s The ay rk. alw wo s y ha da t ery but I believe tha ge part of our ev d is therefore a lar rs are much an me n sto hio cu fas t of tha e natur s ensure ners l media platform ans that the ow Internet and socia ars ago, which me ye they s few an a n me n, tha better informed rdingly. This, in tur design is need to act acco or res flo sto les ry sa na the tio of sta ensure that nts w technologies, emotional eleme should utilise ne r loyalty through me sto cu se rea iser, we want inc an d an org , ate ow -d sh -to de up as tra why we t. In our capacity iate tools. This is and entertainmen with the appropr try hnical us tec ind st ail we ret ne to supply the can present the ch topic, -Lab, where we -Te on ion ati sh ov Fa Inn the the offer regarding velrtant information chnology has de features and impo nels, and talks. Te pa ve , lie ns be tio I l. nta tia se by means of pre ed to its full poten w beaut can now be utilis ho t tha l ou ab too a ing o sc int oped d of remini citing topic. Instea at we can change this is a highly ex ould focus on wh sh we st, pa the in re lly, that was my we s nta ng ide thi l Inc . tifu an ould act, not mo sh .”

We . ow sh ure fut in the Premium trade for founding the main motivation

Anita Tillmann

owner and managing director of Premium Exhibitions

style in progress 115

092 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

Respect the N eeds.

“Diversity an d a more inte resting mix in good for the the inner citie fashion busin s would defin ess and the re rental rate st itely be tail industry as ructure compl a whole. The icates this am the ever-increa current bi tio n considerab sing unificatio ly and promot n of the street should return es s. In general, to focusing on the fashion in the needs of instance, we dustry the consumer at Wrangler de s, no ve t vice versa. Fo lop our denim on this princi r ple. We offer performance jeans with ex collection ba our customer tra features th sed s. Across the at add real va board, the lo similar. In man lue for oks of brands y cases, a high are becoming -profile brand can give cons more core would m umers an idea ake more sens of what the br from, and its e. It and stands fo history. Furth r, where it co ermore, I belie need summer mes ve that the m goods in Dece ar ket really does mber and win wrong with pr n’t ter items in Ju e-lines in prin ly. There’s no ciple, as long sonal relevanc thing as you don’t lo e and act with se sig ht of the seaout considerin behaviour.” g the consum ers’ purchasin g

Matthias Herrmann sales director at Wrangler DACH

Creativity.

“My work as a buyer shou ld be determ ativity, and pa ined by fantas ssion. I’ve m y, creade it my ta individual look sk to put toge s that suit ou ther r store and ou drawing singl r customers, e items from by all the larger However, the fashion collect job now mainl ions. y consists of deadline pres budget talks sure, which le and aves very little creativity. In re time for person cent years, I fe al el more like a cial than a bu government of yer. I would lik fie to see that th ti-label retaile e stationary mul rs move back to the forefront we all put a lo , mainly beca t of passion, tim use e, and hard w our customer ork into makin s happy. The g positive feedba tomers encour ck from our cu ages us to co sntinue followin g our own way .”

Petra Fischer

managing director of Modehaus Fischer in Singen and Konstanz

Seriousness a Enthusiasm. nd

“The fashion industry need s more serious ers on all sid and enthusia es! Currently stic playwe have enth lack the obje usiastic individ ctivity to impl uals, who ement an idea side, while th successfully, e other side on the one is occupied who have all by disillusione the means to d veterans, implement id motivation fo eas, but strugg r trying somet le to find the hing new. A m make a differe ixture of both nce in our indu could really stry. In my vie all involved pa w, this proble rties: the man m affects ufacturers, th and even the e agencies, th sales staff in e retailers, the stores. O benefit from ur industry co less copycats uld definitely ! Far too ofte successful co n people atte ncepts, desig mpt to copy ns, or ideas. the market an This reduces d makes it bo the variety of ring for consum customers st ers. The resu op buying!” lt is that the

Klaus Kirschner

managing director Stetson Europe / FWS

115 style in progress

094 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

T he Right Stu ff.

“There are ob viously too m any products ket, but there on the maris clearly a la ck of the right well. The desir offers as ability of a pr oduct always on the volum depends e and the avai lability. There ways to coun are always teract if one notices there or too little. Fo is too much r example, on e can regulate volume in a m the goods anner that en sures the item maximum nu s reach the mber of cons umers who ar pay the regula e willing to r price. Howev er, that is an needs to be issue that - and can on ly be - addres market itself.” sed by the

Marco Götz

managing director of Drykorn

Creativity, No t

Marco Lanowy

managing partner of Alberto

Conditions.

“We need mor e clearly defin ed profiles! Fo cialists, such r me, this prim as creative in dividuals who arily includes craft. No sane speunderstand ev person would ery little detail ever consider with a tootha of their going to an or che; the fash thopaedic su ion industry sh need clothing rgeon ould follow th that is, in term e same princi s of quality an things we surro ple. We d st yle, as excelle und ourselve nt as all the ot s with. Speaki pair of trouser her ng for Alberto s has to, first , this means and foremost, of thought ne that a fit perfectly. Th eds to be sh ar at ed by all invo ’s it. This train the buyers, an lved parties: d the sales st the manufactu aff. This also seeking pass rers, means that w ionate sales e need to retu advisors. We product like a rn to need advisor friend, rather s w ho than looking recommend fashion advis for a sale com a ors who are ab mission. We le to turn the thing truly un need look of their cu ique by select st om in g er individual colle industry coul into somed do with a lit ction pieces. tle more cour Moreover, the open for inno age, especial vations. After ly the courag all, fashion is new trends. W e to be based on the e really shou implementatio ld be able to accept that on n of deal with this e can now bu situation. So y through a va a solution. Th let’s riety of channe at’s the great ls and let’s fin thing about th develops and d e fashion wor changes both ld - it consta itself and us. turned upside ntly This means th down every no at the old orde w and again.

I’d love to se r is In respect of e less uniform the city centre ity in our indu leads to mon s, st ry. This unifo otony, which, rmity ultimatel and lower sa in turn, leads le y to s flo de or cl in pr in od g would return customer frequ uctivity. This to focusing on could be avoi ency ded if the fash creativity, no allow ourselve ion world t on condition s to be immer s. We should sed in the fa through the st once again shion world an ores. We need d ta less fashion fre ke more time to - produce an to stroll eloaders who ything they fe think they ca el like. And fin and negative n - or want ally, I wish ther moods in ou e would be le r industry, whi and passiona ss pessimism ch is, after al te than any ot l, more excitin her.” g, interesting,

Sur prising Pr oduct Ranges.

“My wish for our industry is more individua The consumer lity in the prod s are bored by uct ranges. the feeling th not only offers at every high the same bran -end store ds, but often retailers have also the same the responsib goods. We ility to take th our customer e odd risk and s with new pr oducts or labe surprise of? I’d say w ls. What do w e need fewer e need less goods! Many put under pres bu y sure by their too much an stock, which d are reductions.” then causes early price

Helmut Eder owner of Helmut Eder

115 style in progress

UM I M PR E le 3 H a l -B 0 3 H3 d n Sta

www.mountainforce.com

096 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

Not Enough E sse

Herbert B. Möller

managing director of Möller und Möller

nce.

“Consumptio n is too superfi cial in genera interest. Why l these days; is that? There’ there is not en s too much of The fashion in ough real everything, bu dustry lacks t too little esse new charism likes of Giorg ntials. atic figures, w io Armani or ho could em Jean Paul Gau driven and ha ulate the ltier. It lacks ve inspired ot personalities hers. Instead, prefer to plou who are significant high gh money into -end fashion advertising, ra tent. The drivi brands th er ng force of th th an in ve st ing in creative e companies maximisation. conbehind those brands is pure So if there is profit no content, w hy should the cu all? Many reta stomers spen ilers fail to sh d their money ow the value lack appropria of goods, the at te presentatio identity thereo n concepts. W ues that can f, and e ne be passed on ed history an d constant va to customers. customers w lIf we cannot ill decide to go provide that, on holiday an Consumers, w the d buy what th ho are able to ey ne se ed pliers, have de e through the online. game plan of cided to turn the larger suptheir attention The likes of He to high-end qu rmès, Kiton, and Patek Ph ality products are not infinite ilippe ensure . ly available, an that their prod d they pay a The retail indu ucts lot of attentio stry itself also n to stable va lacks individua and consider lues. ls willing to tre all aspects of ad their own pa consumption. be found in th th Su ch individuals e younger ge neration, whi can, however about the futu ch makes me , re. They are feel more posit not revolutiona are capable of ive ries, but they changing the ar e en m overs who vironment with In my capaci ty as a retaile their consciou r, I have foun s decisions. individual deal d my own w s with certain ay by negotia suppliers, such Alden and La ting as the shoe m ttanzi. This al lows us to br anufacturers table. We care in g our own ex , which is why periences to we enjoy incr which, in turn the easing suppor , also translate t year after ye s into positive ar, business resu lts.”

“More Taste, Less Anxiety.”

Gordon Giers

co-owner and chief executive of Closed

Quality Trum Uniformity. ps

“The key to su rvival is action; too much or to in that respec o little is relativ t. I have no id e ea what too is supposed much or too to mean - ther little e is no unive question. Ho rsal answer to wever, I see th that at uniformity the customer is not popula s. Quality is th r with e fu good for us. I’d ture of our in dustry, which like to see mor is e of that.”

Christian Goldmann

managing director of Friendly Hunting

115 style in progress

(+)people is a brand produced by Pier S.P.A. - Italy leonardo_costantini@pierspa.com | www.peoplejeans.it Agency D/CH/A: Patrick Coppolecchia Reinartz info@d-tails.de | www.d-tails.de

098 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

Brave Retaile and Buyers. rs

“We need mor e ideas! We al l live off idea that brave reta s, which is w ilers and buye hy I believe rs are exactly We need to be what we need open-minded, right now. implement m portunities - “J ore ideas, an ust do it!” is th d seize ope motto of th of is minus sig e day! What we ns in the wee need less kly trade anal ysis…”

Verena Malta

More Appreciation.

“There are so many - mostly smaller - colle brands, and la ctions, bels that put an incredible love into thei amount of r products. W he ther drawing design, worki the initial ng out the pr ototype, durin sanal manufac g the artituring proces s, and subseq presentation uently the at trade show s and in stores stantly fine-tu - they conne, improve, and try to give It is incredible everything. to see how m uch power, tim ergy goes into e, and enevery item. Ye t those are th that often fin e brands d themselves dangerously brink of colla close to the pse. Why is th at so? Everyb about and de ody talks mands these values, but in just the price the end it’s that counts.

The consum ly choose the ers ultimatelarger, well-k nown brands solely on profi , which focus t maximisatio n. They produc that allow them e in countries to optimise th eir margin an less in their pr d invest a lot oducts. It mak es you think tw put so much ice when you love into the tiniest details that your effo , just to find ou rts aren’t reco t gnised. Althou congratulate gh I personal everyone who ly manages to success with create a sale little - or less s - effort! I’m ha enjoy succes ppy when othe s. I don’t like rs al l th e envy and re in our industry sentment ; I’d really like to see less of that.”

CEO Show & Order

Michi Klemera

managing director of Luis Trenker

Clarity & Stor

Boris Provost

head of communications and international expansion at Who’s Next Paris

115 style in progress

ytelling.

“‘Less is mor e’ is a fundam ental trend on and accessor which the read ies collections y-to-wear of our exhibi for several ye tors have be ars. It involve en based s reflection on essence, whi the origin, ro le still taking ots, and experience an The focus on d history into storytelling, w account. hich is clearly strategies of visible in the many brands marketing , mirrors this ‘Less is more’ development. is also the pa th followed by When there’s the fashion in such a wealth dustry. of choices, cl ed. The buyer arity is urgent is under pressu ly needre is why we aim and has a lim ited budget, w to make his jo hich b easier by of tured areas fo fering clearly r brands with strucproduct portf tradition and olios that boas profitability. W t both e will design our trade show the January ed accordingly, ition of with a select sories under ed range of the title ‘Prem accesière Classe’, structured ra as well as a nge of readyclearly to-wear fash The latter is ion at “Who’s divided into Next”. five special ar for designer w eas including ear, ‘Woman’ ‘Fame’ for elegant w ‘Urban’ for je omen’s fashio ans collections n, and .”

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT ION A L FA SHI O N T R A DE SHO W | 19 – 2 1 J A N 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

100 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

Action.

“There’s a lot of knowledge, but not enou as a whole of gh action! Re ten know quite tailers and th a lot about w sales floor. Ho e industry hen they need wever, rigid pr specific good oduction proc prevent them s on their esses and lo from turning th ng supply ch is knowledge tion allows us ains often into income. manufacturers Th e full vertical to close the cy don’t only cr integraeate a networ cle with in-hou k with the sa se tailor shop mills, dyers, an les area itsel s. We d weavers. Th f, bu t al is so with spinni enables busin swiftly and fle ng esses to reac xibly, as well as t to market de to precisely de and colours. mands liver trends, sp We can manag ecific models, e to take a pr no more than sizes, oduct from ra seven to eigh w cotton to de t weeks! The less returns, an livery in result: less st d more incom ock on the sa e. More impo tomers what les floor, rtantly, we man they want in co age to give th operation with e custhe retailers.”

Gerhard Kränzle

CEO and majority owner of Gardeur GmbH

Listening to th Customers. e

“Let’s be hone st. Do you th ink the fashio tomer oriented n industry is ? I don’t thin particularly cu k so. We ofte service” we ne sn talk about ed to provide. the “excellent We constantly faction” and w strive for “cus ant to create tomer satisa unique “sho the fashion in pping experie dustry is not nce”. In reality particularly in find it boring , novative. Do that, in princi you not also ple, everything Where are the follows the sa disruptive ap me patterns? proaches that dustries? Ove we can witnes r the last 20 ye s in other inars, the bigges industry was t revolution in the emergenc the fashion e of online re shares with co ta ile rs, who gained nsistent user orientation, an market ing concept, excellent (onl and unrivalle ine) marketd service offe tions have gr rs. Internet-d eat potential riven innovain the fashion the success of sector, which Outfittery. Whi is proven by le the service ers is declinin level in statio g, we consist nary retailently focus on “personal shop customer orie ping service” ntation. Our for men is fre completely cu e of charge, stomer focuse individual, d, and very co most to ensu nvenient. We re that the cu do our utst om exceptional sh er - the “man ” in this case opping experie - has an nce. Sometim to the designe es we even ad r box with th d beer e new outfits of both world . We combine s: excellent ad the best vice and an ef model. You’d ficient online think there w business ould be more our industry sh of that, right? ould start liste I believe ni ng closely and th to th e cu st omers’ wishes en fulfil these wishes with bo more ld, new concep ts.”

Julia Bösch founder of Outfittery

T he Luxury o f Waiting.

“My wish for myself and ou r industry is th boring. Than at city centre ks to the coun s become less tless mono-st and this deve ores, they all lopment can look the sam be the reason outlet cities. e for the creatio Another aspe n of artificial ct is that depa their product rtment stores range, but then try to upgrad struggle to se We definitely e ll the goods at need less redu a regular pric ced sale perio more brands e. ds too. Howev with deliberat er, we do need e and long-te ideas. We need rm distributio more quality n strategies than quantity. to wait a little and Real luxury is for the desired when you have item.”

Uwe Meier

general manager of Bungalow and Bel Étage by Bungalow

115 style in progress

Walter Moser GmbH 4863 Seewalchen am Attersee, Industriegebiet 2, T + 43 / 7662 / 31 75-0, E office@airfield.at, www.airfield.at

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102 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

Cycle of Irrat ionality.

“If there’s on e thing that sh ould be chan putting goods ged, then it’s intended for th this nonsense e following se ly as possible of ason on the sa . It’s quite am les floor as ea azing how, un “informed co rder the guise nsumer”, a cy of the so-cal cle of irrationa few years. Th led lity has develo e time at which pe d over the last the first items or spring/sum of the followin mer season ar g autumn/win e put on sale season. I ask ter is pushed forw what for? Just ard every sin to reduce the regular phase? gle price in the m This procedur id dle of the actu e causes a pr goods becom al ice collapse an es blurred. Th d the value of e time span fo it really sensib the r regular pric le to reduce th es is e shortened. Is price of polo jackets in Oct shirts in May ober?” and the price of

Frank Troch

managing director at Hirmer

Not Enough B usiness T hinking.

Regis Benabou

owner of Modeagentur MAB

“Too many pe ople attempt to build a bran edge and seed d, but with insu capital. We ar fficient basic e offered colle over the plac knowlctions on a da e: the US, As ia, and Europe ily basis from people think . It is quite un all they can deve believable ho lop a fashion might be quite w many collection! Th good, but they e design elem often lack bu financial mea ent siness oriented ns to survive . After the fir thinking and th internal or ex st sample co e ternal distribut lle ct io n, io n network. Th you need an duced and de en the goods livered before have to be pr the customer need to pre-fin os even consid ance the raw er paying up. material, the the office, and You pr od ucers, the de good employ livery partner ees. This mea pre-financed s, ns that a new for the first tw brand needs elve to eighte always the m to be en months. Th ost successful e fir st ei season isn’t ther. It takes professionally years until a and even long brand is set er before one even. Only ve up can start drea ry few people ming of a brea seem to unde has to be wel krstand that a l thought out bu siness profile and that mon it to work. It ey needs to ch is very difficu ange hands fo lt to build a bu credit lines, or r siness withou investors. t start-up capi Given the larg tal, e number of co llections that the time to ta are offered to ke a good look us, I hardly ha at all of them take every of ve . However, I ha fer seriously. ve to try and O ne of the co really good fit llections mig for our portfol ht actually be io.

What does a a collection need to persuade m obviously need e of its value? to like the co First of all, I llection. And coherent. If a the backgrou collection real nd needs to be ly appeals to also analyse me, I visit the the backgrou company. We nd on the Inte able sources. rnet and thro The time betw ugh other avai een an offer an one or two ye ld a deal can ars.” be as long as

A New Generation.

“Our generatio n is in desper ate need of a eration of bran new gends; brands th at try to do th ferent way. W ings a dife have to give designers mor to develop a e time product. The “fast fashion” forces them in rhythm to such a high pace, which ul means that a timately high percenta ge of the prod - in the truest ucts are sense of the w ord - destined trash heap. Th for the ere really is no reason to inve trends and te nt new ndencies ever y month.”

Javier Goyenche owner and founder of Ecoalf

115 style in progress

02 - 04 FEBRUARY 2015 MUNICHFABRICSTART.COM

I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R

104 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

Develop Bran ds Together.

Valentino de Luca

owner of Lucky de Luca and Barb’one

“My wishes fo r our industry are more joy, and courage spontaneity, cr to embrace ne eativity, w ideas. The all reduce the prerequisite is goods pressu that we re. Who need per year? Le s twelve colle t’s give the re ctions tail industry m only conseque ore time to se nce of the cu ll. The rre nt quick rhythm reduces prices is that everyo early. I think w ne e should all gi time. We need ve each other enough time more to establish and to develo a true partnersh p a collection ip together. To th need to stop is end, both focusing on sides quick revenu that everything es. I am conv that is built up inced together, and grow slowly, that is allowed will ultimately lead to long-te to rm success.”

Fashion Must Show Its Valu e.

“Today less is more. The surfeit of good desire among s does not cr our customer eate s. We often ha changeability ve too much of product ra interng es. The “pay philosophy, ca less - look go used by disc od” ount supplie counts, often rs and/or ea degrades fash rly dision to a disp tus. We belie osable produc ve that fashio t stan needs to be that reflects its staged in a m value and the anner sales advisor cate that valu s need to com e to the custom munier on equal te should be a st rms. The sale age for the pr s area oduct, becaus to be seduce e our custom d and thrilled. ers want How do we ac we have the hieve this? W right amount e ensure of individuality in focus on an appropriate st our product ra aging, and su nge, before and af pply excellent ter the purcha service ses are compl eted.”

Elke-Cecilia Riehl

head of buying at Lodenfrey München am Dom / Off&Co

Individual St Charisma. ore

“We really do n’t need the same store ju one that show st around the cases the sam corner, e product rang where: a colle e as nearly ev ction of the “u erysual labels” w shop charism ith ou a, just becaus t any individua e it’s now popu l bases as poss lar to cover as ible. Germany many desperately ne stores with a eds more auth clear commitm entic ent to a spec is perceivable ific statemen for consumer t that s. The custom they are at ho ers need to fe me, that this el that is their style, looked after. and that they I am convince are well d that every sin compile the pe gle retailer tri rfect product es to range, but I al enough to try so think it’s no . Love for de longer tails, courage customer care to in , and dedicatio novate, delig ht in n to events an must-have fo d promotions r stores that st are a rive to make Let’s face it, their customer nobody really s happy. needs anythi all about emot ng anymore. ions.”

Today, it’s

Marion Hoferer owner of Agentur Modeist

115 style in progress

106 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

T hinking in Generations.

I have now be en involved at Meindl for 60 in the fashion years, and thus and clothing also industry. Ove motto has alw r all these ye ays been “a bi ars my rd in the hand bush”. True, th is worth two at may sound in the conservative, still am, a co but then I was nservative bu , and sinessman. Th tradiction in te is is in fact no rms of innova contions, curiosit courage. I be y, and entrepr lieve I have al eneurial ways excelled ample, regula in those fields. r visits to the For exmajor fashion were always capitals Paris very important or Milan an in which dire d inspiring fo ction the indu r me. I had to stry was head see challenge was ing. However to pick up and , the next implement th manner that su ose current tre ited the values nds in a and integrity The principle of Meindl’s pr of sustainabi oducts. lity was alway this process, s a central el even though ement of that term hadn yet back then ’t really been . That has alw invented ays been the mainly becaus way we think e it makes ec and act, onomical sens argue that ec e. I suppose onomic rationa many will lity is also co do is highly co ns er mplex. Even th vative, but w hat we ough our indu the last decade stry has not le s, our challeng ft a single ston es haven’t real best possible e unturned ov ly changed. W product, which er e simply striv means we ne material to th e to provide th ed the best co e completion. e m ponents availa Goatskin from from Bavaria ble, from raw Pakistan is st is still the best ill the best, ju . The stag, on winters, and st like cowhide the other hand the tanning ta , needs fat su kes as long as two options: mmers and co it takes. In th either you stan ld at respect, you d by your ow Meindl has of really only ha n values or yo ten had oppo ve u get cheape rtunities to op ucts that are r. en the floodga produced som tes by offerin ewhere else us we could have g cheaper pr ing different te grown massiv odchniques. It’s ely and faster ed to manage safe to say th . But that’s no the company at t who I am. I ha in a way that children. That ve always wan ensures it’s st ’s why I neve till in good shap r even consid I do not only e for my grandered sacrifici prefer the bird ng our values in the hand to important to for swift grow me. That’s pr the two birds th. obably why th in the bush, wasn’t difficu it is also mor e change of lt for me. In th ge e ne is respect, M rations within accordingly. I arkus has alw the company think he may ays shared m even be a little way to preser y views and ac less comprom ve independen ted ising than me. ce and distin a certain pric This is the on ctiveness, whi e level. ly ch is ultimately ho I would theref w you justify ore hope for less breathless for long-term ness in our in and sustainabl dustry. We ne e thinking. ed more cour age

Hannes Meindl owner of Meindl

More Sales Op portunities.

“What I would like from the retail industry ods to give th are extended e goods at th regular sales e PoS more is still reducing perisales opportu prices too ea nities. The in rly and too m retailers at the dustry any goods ar start of the se e delivered to ason. “Ready need to be de the to wear” also livered when means that go the customer our outmost ods s can actually to support th wear them. W e retailers with make them m e do sales suppor ore competent ting measure , exciting, and ples of this ar s to interesting at e regular sale the PoS. Exam s training sess and advertisin ions, extensive g subsidies fo PoS material, r sales suppor ads and mailin ting measure gs, as well as s.

Th fashion show at includes s and raffles at the PoS.”

Tristan Bolwin

brand manager of Cinque Men and Cinque Women

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Photo by Irene Schaur

108 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

24/7.

“Our industry desperately ne eds more inno siastic people vative, creativ , who see thei e, brave, and r job as a pass Their enthusia enthuion and embo sm is what in dy their vocatio spires us; thei me and others n 24/7. r professiona . What we de lism is an exam finitely don’t sources, pollu ple to need are com te our environ panies that w ment, utilise cages, use liv aste refur sourced fro e-plucked do m animals br wn feathers, need more ho ed in or test cosm nest brands an etics on anim d products.” als. We

Christian Obojes

owner of room with a view and Warm-Me

Competitors a s Partners.

Ulrike Koller und Katrin Koller-van Eersel owners of Bella Donna

“Our realisatio n is that stro ng local com tors are partn petiers - loosely based on the Lidl principle.

Aldi/ Wherever ther e is an Aldi st there is also ore, a Lidl store cl ose by. Neve less - or exac rthetly because of that fact - bo enjoy better th business. We need to stick gether to ensu tore that inner cities are a via ble alternative to e-commer ce, huge sale floors, and ou s tlet centres. W e need to wor together to tu k rn our inner ci ties into bran From the prod ds. ucers’ point of vie for more flexi w, we hope bility and go odwill regard delivery date ing s, exchanges, and re-orders.

Partnerships have never be en more important than they are now. We wish high-end brands the st amina to keep their production in Europe , to ensure environmenta standards an l d fair working conditions.

Consumers w ho spend thei r ha money on clot rd-earned hing should no, they must - have certain ty that it was n’t produced in a place with inhumane wor king conditions. A clean break for high -end, owner-managed retailers coul d certainly be brought abou t by a reduct ion of order places and dates. The cu rrent travel load drains a huge amount of resources; we are consta ntly on the m ove.”

Attractivenes s.

“The fashion industry need s more innova as to help offs tions and ideet the loss of customer frequ the stationary ency within retail industry , not only via pr promotions, bu ice-related t also by increa sing the attra stores, produc ctiveness of t ranges, and marketing in the industry general. Wha needs less of t , are goods th into the marke at are injected t too early an d reduced too ining the mar early, thus rugins of the re tailers.”

Michael Horst chief executive of Brax

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THE ORIGINAL PERFECTO JACKET

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110 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS . opinion

Fair Competit ion.

“We’d like to see a larger vo lume of improv petitors, but th ed goods and at’s a fairly iro fewer comnic statement, a lot, but the to be fair. You question is ho can wish for w much can ac we all need to tually be achi accept that w eved. I think e are in the m and brutal co idst of an ev mpetition. Th er-changing e retail areas creasing, and are increasing our free econ rather than de omy allows ev opportunity to ery individual turn it into a who sees an business. Th online shops, ere are also m but, at the sa ore and more me time, we decreasing, cu register a stag stomer frequen nant, or even cy. This means tomers willing that there are to purchase, while there is fewer cusoffers. A reta an ever-increa iler like us ther sing volume of efore needs to relish this co w mpetition, bu ork harder on t I would love our USPs. I all. For exam to see equal ple, if all the opportunities luxury brands opened over for ’ mono-label the last few ye stores that ha ars actually ne than just bein ve eded to earn g written off as money, rather a marketing ex fair competitio pense, then w n. That’s exac e would have tly what I miss more wish: I’d at times. And love to see de I do have one livery dates th actual deman at are more ad d.” apted to the

Harald Heldmann

owner of Classico, myclassico.com, and Bloom

T he Fair Pric e.

“There are ha rdly any cust omers who ar fair price; I be e willing to pa lieve that is a y the verit many. As a fa shion house on able social problem in Ger the island of on the tourist Föhr, we depe s that visit us nd during the se the cities redu as on . The stores in ce the prices shortly before son, which m the actual se eans that the acustomers do ymore what th n’t even know e fair price fo anr a product ac the value of a tually is. Wha product that t is is available at shortly after I a cheaper pr bought it? We ice ar e market and in completely de doing so we stroying the suggest to th their purchase e customers s are worthle that ss. This is w duce prices in hy we don’t our main stor ree; we pass on to our outlet. unsold goods Furthermore, I consistently allow early di take brands th scounts out of at our product ra I rely on bran nge. Instead, ds and select ed products that rare in German are relatively y. My custom ers enjoy the they bought fact that item still have the s sa m e value when to the store fo they return r a second vis it within a seas pleased that on. They are they have pu rchased som and beautiful ething valuab . For the same le re ason, we refu I believe hagg se to haggle. ling is like a dive in footba fair-play.” ll. It isn’t real

Peter-Boy Weber owner of Modehaus Ehlers

Desire and R eality.

“I see a huge discrepancy between desir constantly he e and reality ars and read among custom s how importa desperately lo ers. One nt innovation oking for som is, and how ev ething new. Ho the safe side eryone is wever, buyers in the end, or do tend to re base their de ation, retailers main on cisions on sa really have no les lists. Give right to compl stores or laun n the situch online shop ain when bran s. We want to ds open thei innovations. I r own - and need to therefore desir - present and e more courag sell our e and less focu s on security! ”

Ulli Ehrlich

managing director of Sportalm

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112 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS

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WHAT'S THE STORY 113

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DO! ME! A DEAL! Constant sales and aggressive price marketing - when the fashion industry is sitting on full warehouses, all means to relieve the situation seem acceptable. Consumers have learned their lesson and wait for the prices to tumble. 50% will only buy reduced goods, and those who pay more are perceived as stupid. It’s time to find some answers to the deadly sales cycle problem!

Text: Martina Müllner.

Photos: Interview partners.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler

The figures are both impressive and shocking: A study conducted in France and Germany in 2014 collected data on how many consumers make their fashion purchases at reduced prices. The study revealed that 60% of the French consumers do exactly that, as do 50% in Germany.

It’s a great time to be a bargain hunter. In Bad Münstlereifel, the hometown of German entertainer Heino, discounts have even become a local motto. The town has Germany’s first “City Outlet”, a discount temple located in the city centre rather than on a green field. No less than 150,000 people visited the new outlet in the opening phase. Instead of building an artificial venue with McArthurGlen atmosphere, the investors decided to utilise vacancies in the centre.

There is no longer a region without an outlet centre, and every shopping street has its sale posters. The aggressive price marketing makes it even more difficult for fashion retailers to survive. This especially affects the countryside and those cities that don’t attract Arabian, Russian, or Chinese tourists, who are willing

to buy all the products the locals wouldn’t touch at full price.

Declining sales and frequency figures make it difficult to resist turning the screw on the price.

If you have not developed an individual profile, you’re likely to be stuck in the ever-advancing discount game.

Even the fashion retailers who wield the red pencil secretly know that it’s not the solution to the underlying problem. How can it be right to offer a 10% discount on the entire autumn/ winter collection as early as September? This move by a Düsseldorf-based concept store in 2014, which was instigated under the pretext of a company anniversary, will ultimately fall back on the entire city. It’s quite ironic that this grotesquely early price reduction happened in the first “post-Eickhoff” season.

After all, the fashion godfather of Düsseldorf was known as the obstetrician of early discounts.

Competition within the own ranks is acerbated by daily price offers on the Internet. Overstock retailers such as Vente Priveé, Brands for Friends, Limango, and BestSecret offer permanent

sales. It seems like every brand is available at a reduced price somewhere, at any point in time…

Saving Money is Fun

Consumers don’t want to regret whipping out their credit cards.

Overpaying definitely triggers the worst kind of buyer’s remorse, even if the object of desire is a pure luxury item and has very little in common with demand. It may be paradox, but it is also inherently human: if an opportunity to save money arises, most consumers are willing to spend more. It therefore comes as no surprise that retailers never tire of reducing prices, even if it has a significant negative impact on revenues and profitability. It takes backbone, courage, and honesty to reintroduce consumers, who have got used to discounts over the years, to the full price.

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114 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS

We Are Observing a Shift to More Conscious Consumption Janine Seitz, a cultural anthropologist, has worked as an editor at the research institution Zukunfts­institut since 2008. As part of her research and authorship activities, she spends a lot of time contemplating the future of the retail industry. style in progress met up for a chat with the co-author of the “Sales Trends Study”.

Bargain hunting has turned into a national sport. According to a GfK study, more than 50% of consumers cover their fashion needs with reduced items. How much more can this percentage increase?

Bargain hunting is definitely booming. However, that doesn’t mean that everything must be cheap at all costs.

On the contrary, the quality has to be adequate at the lowest possible price. Brand products are particularly popular. This development has significant upside potential, if the fashion retail industry manages to focus on the shopping experience, despite all the sales and price wars.

Consumers seek price thrills, meaning the satisfaction of having found a

115 style in progress

bargain. Which emotions triggered by full price purchases can compete with these feelings of happiness?

It can be just as thrilling for customers to know that they have bought a unique item.

Individuality is an important distinction factor, especially in the fashion world.

Although the trend towards hand-made unique pieces will remain a niche market, it is still the icing on the cake for a price-driven retail industry. In addition, fair trade products can trigger feelings of happiness. In this case, the consumers believe their purchases have a positive effect on the world.

What does the retail industry need to do to avoid being defined solely by price?

The price is - and remains an important selling point.

However, the b4p market media study conducted in 2014 reveals that Germans see attractive design as an even more important selling point for fashion. The same applies to store design. Sales areas are being increasingly transformed into stages for the perfect product presentation. After all, less can be more. Service is also becoming a more important factor again. Curated shopping deals, in which

the seller supplies the buyer with tailored products, are enjoying increasing popularity both online and offline.

The stores are permanently offering discounts, and it seems as if every product can be found even cheaper somewhere online. Which effects on future customers have you identified?

A reduced price is the standard for customers. The price spiral - high quality at a low price - will continue to rotate for the online retailing industry for quite a while. However, the volume of products available online will continue to grow, which means that the customers will need more time to find the cheapest price.

This oversupply ensures that certain customers will turn their attention back to proven and more manageable offers.

Furthermore, the bargain hunting thrill is reduced by the fact that everything is available at a discount anyway. When you know you can buy whatever you want, you soon start doubting whether you actually need all these things. We are observing a noticeable shift towards more conscious consumption.

Do customers still perceive a full price as

justified? Or has it long become something out of this world?

The full price hardly exists anymore! Just look at how often a recommended retail price is marginally undercut and then advertised as “special price”. The definitions of full price and discount are becoming increasingly diluted. Customers often expect a minimal discount, even if it’s just a few percent at the checkout or a discount voucher for the next purchase. In the future, the full price can only be justified in combination with a tangible added value for the customer.

Is bargain hunting the result of abundance? Can we wait for reduced prices because we don’t really need anything?

If you need something desperately, you’ll obviously be willing to pay a little more. There is no end to this abundance in sight at the moment, and the globalisation is fuelling the fire even more. Ultimately, the consumers will decide if and when they grow tired of this oversupply.

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116 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS

Monthly Sales in 24 Hours

Start-up entrepreneur Konrad Kreid has a wealth of experience with discounts. He worked for Groupon before he founded Black Friday GmbH in an attempt to introduce online sales events, which are already very popular in the US, to Germany and Austria.

I offer juicy discounts in exchange for new customers. Surely your data gathered over the last few years can prove that one discount promotion per year can have a lasting effect. How many Black Friday customers return to the same e-retailer to purchase at regular prices?

of the Black Friday concept, the event has brought the retail industry a huge turnover boost. The shoppers spend significantly more and don’t restrain themselves before the Black Friday either.

Many retailers have confirmed that, on average, every second shopper returned within six months.

Our partner stores obviously have much more accurate analysis options. That’s why their continual participation speaks for itself. The majority was extremely happy with the revenues generated by the event in 2014. Some even generated their usual monthly turnover within 24 hours.

That is the danger that always goes hand in hand with regular discount promotions. However, the Black Friday is a one-off event that is limited to 24 hours. This ensures that the shoppers don’t perceive the reduced prices as standard.

For example, Apple is only willing to offer discounts on Black Friday. It has no effect whatsoever on regular prices for the rest of the year.

A GfK study states that more than 50% of all Germans wait for sales before buying fashion. Do events like Black Friday encourage this mentality even more?

We believe it is still too early to say whether Black Friday will have a lasting effect on consumer behaviour in Germany. In the US, the home 115 style in progress

Do you believe that customers now see the sale price as the only justified price?

If discounts are commonplace, doesn’t that make it more difficult for online and offline retailers to earn the necessary margins?

That’s exactly why we warn against staging such discount promotions too frequently. That does not only lead to excessive market saturation, but also dilutes the brand itself. Targeted campaigns can attract a large

number of new customers within a very short time.

If the retailer can also offer high standards of quality and service, the satisfied customers will almost certainly return and be willing to pay regular prices.

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Fashion is Absurdly Far Removed from Demand Purchases

Fashion entrepreneur Stephan Lanzer is at the helm of the familyowned company Knilli in Graz and also runs Hugo Boss, Closed, and Tommy Hilfiger franchise stores in Kitzbühel, Graz, Vienna, and Ljubljana. Instead of using the price as a selling point, he focuses on measures that promote appreciation for both individuals and products.

Are customers of your high-end stores also waiting for discounts? Do you observe a tendency to delay a purchase to profit from price reductions?

The main problem is that fashion is absurdly far removed from normal demand purchases. When the winter comes as late as it did in the current season, customers can perhaps wait until one supplier starts reducing the prices. The problem for us retailers was that the down jackets were delivered as soon as July/August, which meant that we needed to sell them by November, which is when the winter started, and which was exactly the time the first price reductions occurred.

The margins were lost.

Is it possible to stage a subtle sale? Can one release the stock pressure as soon as you start feeling it?

We need to start educating our customers again. We mustn’t do this with discounts, but with a complete package. We need to focus on the charm of the store, the service supplied by the employees, and the personalities within the shop. The customers will then return because they are convinced, 115 style in progress

not because of vouchers. If the customer is valued as a human being, discounts are merely a sideshow.

But one still needs to follow suit if others whip out the red pencil…

That is true. Unfortunately, we don’t communicate enough with each other.

When you speak to colleagues, even those that reduce prices early, they all say that they aren’t happy with the situation either. That’s when you yearn for the days of the legally regulated closing sales.

Every brand is available at a cheaper price somewhere at any given time.

How can one counteract this situation?

Moncler tells us how many items we are allowed to buy and when specific items are allowed to be offered at sale prices. This doesn’t apply to classics, by the way. On the contrary, those normally increase in price from season to season. So if a customer is hesitant to buy such an item at full price, we can say that it will be more expensive next winter. I guess that’s also a kind of discount. (laughs) How can the industry break free from the price discussion?

You need to teach the customers appreciation.

I organise events for men and only invite a handful of customers. I pay a lot of attention to the guest list to ensure that the participants suit each other and can benefit from each other. The focus is on entertainment, not on shopping. I want to show our customers that Knilli is also a place that one can visit to merely have a chat.

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120 WHAT'S THE STORY

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Less is More - The Same Applies to Turnover The future of fashion lies in minimalism. Less consumption solves a string of problems across the entire industry. The present economic and production models are not only ruining the environment, but also the business itself.

Text: Petrina Engelke.

Photos: Tim Davis, Interview partners.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler

Sometimes fashion is produced for the landfill. Maybe the colour is wrong, there are leftovers from the cutting process, and sometimes someone horribly misjudges the demand for a certain design. This leads to millions of tons of fabrics, sleeves, and even entire jeans ending up on the rubbish tip (see box 1). And that’s not even the end of it.

Fashion brands are reluctant to discuss topics such as strategic overproduction relative to discount chains and outlets, as well as the minimum production volume of the cheapest producer, which can be significantly higher than the envisaged sales volume.

They also don’t like to talk about their order contracts with large fashion retailers, which tend to fill their shelves and force suppliers into guaranteed, free of charge retraction of no less than 30% at the end of the season.

This type of disposable fashion has an increasing effect on balance sheets.

Even fashion that is sold often lands on the rubbish heap or in the waste incinerator quicker

than one would assume. Some clothing items simply lose their shape after two rounds in the washing machine or gather dust in some cupboard as shopping blunders. Only a very small percentage of the clothing ends up in the recycling process. The majority of items head straight for the landfill. Furthermore, the common polyester shirt takes ages to decompose. Many modern fibres take as long to fall apart as the oft-quoted plastic bags and bottles. It can take decades, even centuries in some cases. This means that the clothing is not really gone once

the waste collection has paid a visit. The mountain of waste is becoming larger and larger.

The Drawbacks of Recycling

One answer to the waste problem is the recycling bin in the store. It is clearly visible, the results are measurable, and it looks good too. H&M, for instance, is aggressively advertising its recycling programme “Long Live Fashion”, Uniqlo passes on used clothing to refugee centres, and Nudie transforms old jeans into carpets. That’s great, but it won’t have any effect at all if the volume of clothing remains the

Mountains of Clothing

The production volume of the global textile industry grew from approximately 86 million tons in 2011 to 92.3 million tons in 2013.

According to estimates, China produces more than 20 million tons of textile waste every year.

In the UK, approximately one million tons of textiles end up in the rubbish tip.

Every US citizen throws away approximately 30 kilograms of clothing every year. This figure does not include clothing passed on to second-hand stores or collection points for old clothes.

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“Buying less is not a limitation.”

Javier Goyeneche, Ecoalf “Less waste means more profit.”

Roman Stepek, Mountain Force

same. Let’s face it, how many carpets made of old clothing can we realistically stack in our living room?

Recycling can be part of the production process. One can feed the sewing machines with reclaimed waste instead of cotton impregnated with poison or synthetic fibres made of petroleum. According to its own data, the young Ecoalf label from Spain has recycled more than 14 million plastic bottles and 23 tons of fishing nets to produce clothing.

However, those who are eager to bring rubbish into the fashion industry need strong nerves and a lot of stamina. “One of the biggest challenges is the lack of necessary technology to transform this waste into great fabrics, labels, linings, lace, and other materials”, says Javier Goyeneche, the founder of Ecoalf.

“The same applies to the search for partners that have an equally passionate approach to the topic, and are therefore willing to invest in research.”

Waste Prevention Means More Profit

As early as 1995, Thomas E. Graedel, an industrial ecology professor, claimed that designers determine 80% to 90% of the efNatural Fibres Are No Solution

fect that an item of clothing will have on the environment. However, they need knowledge of materials (see box 2) and suppliers with the adequate technology.

This does not only significantly reduce the volume of waste, but also reduces costs. “The issue of waste prevention is very close to our heart, but is also essential for our production partners due to certain business management correlations”, Roman Stepek, the chief executive of Swiss premium sport label Mountain Force, explains. A specially developed computer programme allows the production machinery to use as much of the fabric as possible, thereby creating less waste. “In simple terms: less waste leads to higher profits.”

Error in Economical Reasoning

The entire fashion industry - including designers, suppliers, and retailers - is in desperate need of a diet. “Saving” a few calories here and there will have little effect on the scales; a permanent lifestyle change will, however, cause the needle to move in the desired direction. The same applies to the fashion brands.

Less consumption will ultimately lead to a decreasing production volume.

During the cultivation process, the cotton needed for one t-shirt consumes approximately 2,700 litres of water (roughly 14 bath tubs or the recommended daily water consumption for no less than 900 people).

Cotton represents 90% of the natural fibres used by the textile industry.

Conventionally cultivated cotton needs more insecticide than any other agricultural crop.

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On the other hand, people need to buy to ensure sufficient revenues. The companies therefore need to produce inexpensively, swiftly, and often, in order to generate a profit. After all, the digital revolution has made sure that everyone sees the items paraded along the catwalk in real time. This means the fashion industry has to introduce new products constantly, while simultaneously undercutting the competition.

Is that so? According to Gesellschaft für Konsumforschung (GfK), a Germany-based international market research specialist, the spending on consumer products has increased over the past few years, but the same applies to the demand for high-end authentic products. Any brand that wants to become the new darling of the trend-setters has to offer the younger generation a coherent overall concept. However, to be forced into something simply doesn’t seem like a good argument in an industry that uses the term “creative” more often than any other.

Durability Lowers Costs

The outdoor giant Patagonia is making a splash in the US with a controversial advertising campaign titled “Don’t Buy This Jacket”. Eureka! In order to find

a lucrative way to turn the “less is more” philosophy into a profit engine, one merely needs to take a step back from the “fast fashion” rat race for a second. Who says that a fashion company needs to sell its products?

In New York, “Rent The Runway” has managed to develop from an online project into an in-store at the luxury department store Henri Bendel, and ultimately even opened its own flagship store. The brand achieved all this with its concept of rented fashion. A single dress generates turnover multiple times and also reduces the volume of subsequent waste. In Europe, Mud Jeans’ project, titled “Lease a Jeans”, has managed to make trousers made of ecological cotton more affordable since 2013. And we haven’t mentioned the effect on customer retention yet. Only 10% of the 1,500 people, who pay five Euros a month for rented jeans, turned their back on the project after a year.

Service as Source of Income

To ensure that less fashion really reduces the waste volume, the items that are bought (or rented) have to last for quite a while.

Manufacturing techniques, such as ultrasonic sealing and edge protection, pave the way for

we respect ducks We do not use real down, our garments are made with PLUMTECH速, a technological material that imitates the fluffiness of down while preserving the advantages of thermal insulation.

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increased durability. But even the best technology cannot prevent an earring from annoyingly and destructively getting caught in a cashmere sweater. Patching, mending, adapting, and recycling are not only suitable evening pastimes for environmentally conscious customers caught up in the DIY trend. These old-fashioned techniques may prove to be a veritable gold mine for the fashion industry. Some brands have already started generating revenue and/or image gain via additional services. Nudie, for instance, offers a patching service free of charge, Patagonia sells its own “Repair Kit”, and some Ralph Lauren stores employ tailors, who can replace buttons or widen coats.

Let’s just assume for a minute that the consumers really start buying less and that less fashion is produced. One certainly wants to ensure that the customers return after a prolonged shopping break. If you recognise the value of after-sales services early, you will definitely be sitting pretty in the future and can offer customer care that is normally associated with the automotive industry.

After all, this industry is used to selling one new model to an individual customer every few years. However, clothing needs service as much as a vehicle. The difference is that spare parts in the fashion industry are not necessarily in demand for the sole purpose of mending something broken. The owner of a blouse might want a new collar as an upgrade to keep up with the trends of the new season. And customers who can bring their torn jackets to the in-store tailor will definitely not only remember the brand, but might even browse the shop for a new pair of trousers.

Sharply Calculated - Less Really is More

No matter which way you look at it: if you decide to sell less and more durable dresses, you will need to raise the prices at some point. This causes everyone to panic who has listened to teenagers discuss where they can get the most value for their money. The main focus of marketing needs to shift to the aim of counteracting this mentality. After all, the willingness to spend more money

on good quality is on the rise. As early as 2010, a study conducted

by Bain, titled “Why She Shops”, said that women specifically seek out longevity. 80% of the interviewees agreed with the statement “I am willing to pay more for clothes and accessories that last for longer than a season”.

Thus, it is even possible to tackle the bad habit of the early - or permanent - price reduction.

“Have you ever heard of a winter sale at a watchmaker?”, Mountain Force chief executive Roman Stepek asks. “It would be paradise if the market would change in a manner that customers buy fashion in the same way they would buy a good watch. The customers should not buy seasonally and in bulk, but invest their money in real quality products that actually meet their demands.” He has also identified another business advantage. The changing buying behaviour could present fashion brands with the possibility to produce certain items one or two seasons in advance. “There certainly is business to be made.

The money is still there, but it would no longer be invested in

“fast selling” consumer products on a monthly basis.”

Desire for New Items

“Fast fashion” could, of course, accelerate to the daily delivery of new products - possibly even every hour, or every minute. But what comes next? The desire for new products remains. But that doesn’t necessarily mean that one needs to buy new items all the time. Small alterations, new styles, and detachable extras are real alternatives for consumers and could be new sources of income for the fashion industry.

So the secret is out. Less consumption doesn’t punish either side with limitations. Javier Goyeneche, who named his Ecoalf brand after his son, points out the behaviour of a small boy, who has just received four presents, as an example. He will unpack all four, but ultimately only play with one toy and forget the other three. “I don’t think buying less is an emotional limitation as such. It allows you to draw more enjoyment from the product you purchased”, he says.

And he adds: “It’s not a question of quantity!”

Don’t Buy This Jacket. Vincent Stanley is trying to convince the Patagonia customers of the four “Rs” (Reduce, Repair, Reuse, Recycle) via an initiative titled “Common Threads”. The essence of his message is to only buy what you really need. To create awareness, the brand chose to launch its advertising campaign “Don’t Buy This Jacket” on the Black Friday, the most important day for US retailers, of 2011. Stanley explains how this message is in line with the concept of making money.

Patagonia sells clothing for a living. However, your advertising campaign asks customers to consume less. How is that in line with your own interests?

In the long run, it is in everyone’s interest to reduce environmental damage. We don’t believe that this call for less consumption contradicts our business interests. Our business model is based on customer satisfaction and word of mouth advertising. Happy customers tend to return with friends.

Following this advertising campaign, you sold a lot of jackets and other items. Was that the plan all along?

We needed the approval of the management board for the “Don’t Buy This Jacket” campaign and we knew that there was the risk of losing revenues. However, the sales figures for the jacket depicted in the advert didn’t rise or fall in the weeks following the launch. That proves that the campaign struck a nerve.

If a lot of people take that idea on board, they will not want a new jacket for a number of years.

How do you ensure that they remember Patagonia then and purchase another one of your products?

You won’t forget the name of the company that made the jacket you have grown to love for its usefulness, robustness, and excellent look.

What is the central element of the marketing strategy following Patagonia’s shift to a “less consumption” approach?

The fashion industry entices people with the new, which is a natural human instinct. But we also have an instinct to love things that are older and familiar. We associate those items with memories of other people and travel destinations. That’s why our “Worn Wear” campaign encourages customers to repair and care for products, as well as to value their durability. This opens the lucrative secondary market of high-end used clothing for our business. It enables younger and less affluent customers to purchase our clothing too.

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www.ecoalf.com

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„Fashion Consumers Will Look at Fast Fashion Brands Like They Look at McDonald’s” How do you establish environmental sustainability in the fashion industry? Some of the options at hand are reducing textile waste and pollution, as well as water and energy consumption.

That’s the mission of Redress, founded by Christina Dean in 2007 – in Hong Kong, of all places. She has observed fashion-related pollution in China, and she knows who’s to blame (you might be surprised!). She might even have found the key to what will work as a way out – both for consumers and for fashion companies.

Interview: Petrina Engelke.

Photo: Luke Casey

Ms Dean, from a western perspective, China looks like the epitome of disposable goods production as well as consumption. Would you agree to that?

Many Western people consider that “Made in China” stands for rubbish, which is critically unfair. All Western consumers have benefitted from having the production sites far away from them, where they don’t suffer from the pollution, but they gain from getting cheap clothes. And then in the same breath they say: Oh, China is so polluting and makes such bad quality products. Of course the Chinese can produce quality, durability, beautiful tailoring, and wonderful fabrics. But since China opened up, all the suppliers have bent over backwards to provide fast turn-around products at the prices that the Western people want. And in having done so, they have completely destroyed their own environment; people are dying because of all the pollution in the water. Many of the crises that China faces are because of the high demand for cheap products.

The volume of textile waste, as well as pollution, caused by the textile industry is crushing these days. Do you still see a silver lining?

I think there is hope, I do. One hope is that there is an understanding that this cannot go on, from an economic, an environmental, and also from a social perspective. Because, you know, all of these developing countries are still developing. In China, for example, the minimum wage has gone up. Hopefully the world’s poverty situation is going to improve enough to ensure that we can’t rely on poor countries to make our cheap clothes. Hope number two: I do also think that consumers are waking up to fast fashion, just like to fast food previously. I know about four or five documentaries about fast fashion that are being made at the moment. To me, this is the “Supersize Me” of the fashion industry. So we might come to a point where fashion consumers will start looking at fast fashion brands like they do at McDonald’s – with a little bit of distrust and distaste.

With Redress, you have been promoting consuming less fashion as a solution. What works as a motivation to do so?

At the end of the day, the average consumer is driven by a selfish desire. If you say “Buy less, because you have to save the environment”, they will say: “Oh, yes, maybe”. Very few people are

Christina Dean founded the Redress organisation in 2007.

driven by that. Most people are driven by what’s in it for them.

So if you tell them “Buy less, but buy better”, there is a direct benefit for them: higher quality clothes with the potential to make them look better.

If we could convince all fashion companies to produce less, how could they still make money?

They would have to charge more. If we convinced the whole world to turn their brains on, the products would have to be of a better quality, the consumer would need to pay more money for them, and then the brands would still generate the revenue they need, the governments would get the taxes they need, and consumers could get the clothes that they desire. But obviously, that requires a massive paradigm shift. It would involve changing the supply chains, which over the course of the last ten or fifteen years have become so much more based on the fast fashion model.

Raising awareness for buying fewer clothes - for 356 days, Christina Dean dressed exclusively in clothes that had been thrown away by others.

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Design Global – Produce Local How important is production in Europe in terms of quality, delivery speed, and corporate security? Some brands – especially those from the premium segment – are openly considering the benefits.

Text: Ina Köhler.

Photos: Interview partners.

At the recent opening of the new Zegna store in Düsseldorf ’s “Königsallee”, the invited guests expertly examined the suits, bags, wallets, and ties presented by the Italian luxury label. After all, Zegna is not some random luxury label, but it also stands for high-class Italian workmanship, solidarity, and reliability.

Even though the fashion house cooperates with numerous international production companies, the suits, which are considered the centrepiece of the collection, are manufactured in Italy. For Gildo Zegna, the chief executive, anything else is out of the question: “Of course we manufacture our suits in Italy. In addition, we also manufacture a string of other products in Europe. The quality of the product – from the fabric to the completed suit – is always our main focus. After all, the customers pay attention to quality when they consider buying brand clothing.” This statement can be interpreted in a variety of ways, especially as the criteria for quality were not necessary dependent on the production location for quite some time. Some luxury brands like Burberry and Prada had outsourced production to Asia. The higher yields promised by “Made in China” were tempting, despite protests at home. Recently the

focus has shifted back to the procurement markets in or close to Europe. For instance, Prada is investing in new Italian production facilities for shoes, clothing, and leather items. French luxury brand Hermès has – like some other industry players – always stuck to producing in its home market. Bottega Veneta announced recently that it will be opening another production plant in northern Italy. This decision comes shortly after Bottega Veneta opened an award-winning 55,000 square metre head office (with adjacent production site) in Montebello Vicentino in 2013.

A study conducted by McKinsey proves that this trend has little to do with social romanticism, but is based on hard facts. A survey among international fashion house buyers showed that socalled “near-shoring” will be increasingly important to 81% of the interviewees. In the future, seven of ten head buyers want to see more products manufactured near the European and US markets, even if this means an increase in price. Naturally, this applies especially to high-end products and so-called “fast fashion” items. These market segments seem to have realised that the tag “Made in/near Europe” has a number of advantages.

Apart from quality concerns, the main issues in this respect are delivery speed, flexibility, and corporate security. “Everything is becoming more regional again”, says Michele Malenotti. He works for Matchless, a British label that manufactures its high-end leather items in Veneto. “Europeans want to buy products they can trust”, Malenotti believes. He sees improved timing and cost reduction as the main arguments in favour of producing in Italy, especially as the products in question can be delivered within 24 hours.

Speed Counts

Production in Europe proves to be especially beneficial for fast and highly fashionable brands like the label Atos Lombardini, which has its products manufactured in Italy, and the French brand Fame on You. Given that the retail industry is increasingly interested in collections that can be delivered on short notice, flexible production sites that are not too far away can be a real asset. “We only produce in Europe and there are no plans to change that”, says Francis Kioyo, the founder and head designer of Fame on You. “We can access the production sites swiftly and can therefore also react quickly.

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“Quality is the decisive factor, regardless of where the actual production site is located.” – Kai Timpe, Deyk naturally a lot more expensive than those outside Europe.

However, moving the production further afield is not an option for us and we will remain true to our ‘Made in Europe’ philosophy. This is why we have a very avant-garde approach and try to supply individual products that cannot be seen everywhere.”

For him – as for many other entrepreneurs – the decision to procure in Europe is a very deliberate choice. The same applies to Drykorn. “Nearly 90% of our products are manufactured in Europe”, says Marco Götz, the owner of Drykorn. “That’s the only way we can realise the diversity and individuality of our product range.” After all, short-term programmes make up between 15% and 20% of Drykorn’s female outerwear segment, as well as up to 10% of its menswear business.

This requires fast and flexible production facilities, which is only possible if the respective sites are close by. However, Götz warns that proximity does not automatically translate into a guarantee of speedy delivery: “Many procurement sources are directly or indirectly affiliated with Asian suppliers, which often slows down the process quite considerably.” Furthermore, the continuous decline of European production sites has already had a negative effect in many countries. “The development time has increased significantly by the fact 115 style in progress

that the European infrastructure was literally bled out”, Götz explains.

Other companies also rely upon the speed advantage of procurement markets in Europe and/or the Euromed region. “The Asian market is not as important for trousers as it is for the production of knitwear”, says Kai Timpe, the managing director of Deyk. “We exclusively manufacture products for Deyk in Europe. However, the quality is the decisive factor regardless of where the actual production site is located.” Leineweber Group, which also controls Deyk,

“There are a few countries in which we would not produce as a matter of principle.” – Marko Götz, Drykorn

procure from Europe their vote of confidence. Moritz Offeney and Marco Reiter, the founders of Scarosso, focus on high-end women’s and men’s shoes made in Italy. The shoes are distributed via own stores in cities such as Frankfurt, Hamburg, Berlin, and Vienna, as well as via the online shop. The company already has 60 employees and recently received a capital injection from investors to expand its foreign business.

Risk Prevention

Transparency is one of the key issues for the quality seal that “Made in Europe” should stand for. However, the definition of the criteria remains disputed and a designation of origin is still merely optional. In this respect, the textile industry is far behind the food industry. While fashion houses such as Honest. by, Nudie, and Haikure willingly communicate their suppliers, many other brands treat their production sites like a state secret. This was once again proven by the research for this article, during which a surprisingly large number of representatives of premium brands answered information requests with a simple “no comment”. One thing is clear: European production does not automatically translate into high quality, sustainability, or fair working conditions. But even though certain countries

produces 21% of its goods in Europe, 21% in Turkey, and 27% in North Africa. According to its sustainability report, the group produces a mere 20% of its goods in Asia.

Quality and Craftsmanship

One cannot deny that customers have a certain yearning for quality and craftsmanship. A very good example for this trend is the shoe market. European brands such as Santoni, Fratelli Rossetti, Floris van Bommel, and Lotusse manufacture in Europe to benefit from local craftsmanship. However, they also need to ensure that the know-how doesn’t die out in the course of time. But that is a completely different issue altogether. Scarosso, which was only founded in 2010, is a prime example of how consumers give new labels that

– like Romania or Turkey – are often criticised by the press and NGOs for their potentially poor working conditions, these countries still provide a certain legal framework that Asia lacks. This is a risk minimisation factor that should not be underestimated.

“Social factors are one of the key issues in our selection process.

“We only produce in Europe and there are no plans to change that.” – Francis Kioyo, Fame on You

“Everything is becoming more regional.” – Michele Malenotti, Matchless There are a few countries in which we would not produce as a matter of principle”, says Marco Götz, the chief executive of Drykorn. Unfortunately, Europe does not place much value in the image factor that goes hand in hand with the “Made in” tag. The Chinese, on the other hand, pay a lot of attention to the fact that high-end branded productions have the quality seal of “Made in Europe” or “Made in US”. So is this a contradiction? Maybe better informed consumers can give companies a nudge in the right direction by persistently asking the right questions…

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Casablanca, the metropolis in Morocco, is a mere three hour flight away from Germany. This is ideal for visitors of local trade shows such as Maroc in Mode and Maroc Sourcing.

“Here’s Looking at You, Kid!” Many brands are on the lookout for alternatives to production plants in Asia.

It makes sense to evaluate options on Europe’s doorstep. Morocco sees this as an opportunity.

Text: Ina Köhler.

Photos: Maroc in Mode, Maroc Sourcing

The streets of Casablanca are full of life. Western-dressed young women carry their Zara shopping bags past heavily veiled Moroccan women. A factory in the midst of a residential area opens its gates. Welcome to Morocco!

Almost a quarter of the country’s exports are contributed by the clothing business, and approximately 175,000 people work in the textile industry. Yet Morocco’s contribution to EU imports is minimal with 3.52% (in comparison: Turkey 13.52%; China 36%). “Moroccan companies can compete on an international level”, says Mohamed Tazi, the general director of the association AMITH (Association Marocaine des Industries du Textile et de l’Habillement). During the association’s trade shows, Maroc in Mode and Maroc Sourcing, in October 2014, exhibitors and brands had an opportunity to meet and discuss. “The Germans ignored the Moroccan market for a long time”, says Youssef Echichihab, the chief executive of purchasing specialist Aliaco.

“However, the situation has changed over the last few years.”

Not only have customers such as Hess Natur, Otto Group, Mac-Jeans, and HIS decided to produce in Morocco, but also international brands like Armani, Adolfo Dominguez, Edun, Hackett, Max Mara, Lucky Brand, Odd Molly, and Woolrich. The country scores with low wages, swift deliveries, and relatively secure working environments. “We have secured numerous certificates such as

GOTS, BSCI, Fairtrade, and Cotton Made in Africa”, explains Sanaa El Khattabi, the sales administrator of Teintoret. Her company produces jersey textiles for the likes of Otto Group, Ellesse, and Inditex.

Morocco’s main advantage, namely its proximity to Spain, is also its main problem. More than 40% of the textile-related export revenues of approximately 1.15 billion Euros in 2013 went to Spain. The largest customer is the Inditex Group. This creates dependencies, especially as the Galicians are putting massive pressure on the prices. France is the second largest buyer with 850 million Euros, while goods worth a mere 162 million Euros

“Moroccan countries can compete on an international level.”

- Mohamed Tazi, general director of AMITH

were exported to Germany.

“France and Spain are the more likely partners due to their linguistic and geographic proximity”, says Wolfgang Glück, the owner of a production company located in the Moroccan town of Taza. “Trucks can transport goods to Barcelona within 48 hours.” Morocco produces swiftly and the distances are small. That makes the country especially attractive for the production of trousers and denim products, as well as piece dyeing.

During the trade show, a newly created denim cluster showcased the possibilities. Turkey, the largest competitor on the denim market, is still a little faster due to the fact that major suppliers also operate locally. However, the production costs in Morocco are lower in comparison.

Hourly wages of 12 dirham translate into a monthly income of approximately 200 Euros, which is less than half of the minimum wage in Turkey. But many companies are eager to break free from the discount supplier niche. “We focus on quality and flexible production”, says Hichem Mghirbi, whose company Filmod specialises in ready-to-wear clothing. “Our future lies in less quantity and higher quality.”

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The exhibition “Leather Forever” shows the history of Hermès with humour and poetry. This installation by Edmond Leong proves the cult status of these exclusive bags.

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“Buy Less Buy Better” When 44 year old Florian Craen, currently the executive vice-president responsible for distribution and sales at Hermès, started his career at the company in 1997, the tradition-steeped group had just paved the way for expansion with its IPO in 1993. style in progress caught up with the top manager to talk about temptation and shortage.

Interview: Silke Bender.

Photos: Hermès

Others can merely dream about achieving the appeal, results, and profitability of Hermès. What does Hermès do better than the others?

I think that’s a question you should ask our customers.

We follow our own path. We strive to manufacture the most beautiful items by utilising the best materials and our knowhow to supply products that our customers keep for a lifetime.

The zeitgeist also plays into our hands. In recent years, I have seen that nearly all markets show a trend and increased awareness to buy more selectively and quality-oriented. It’s all about quality, not quantity. Customers buy less, but they buy better. At the same time, a formerly non-existent wealthy target group has grown in countries such as China, Russia, Thailand, Brazil, the Middle East, and Indonesia.

The entire luxury industry profits from this development.

However, Hermès seems reluctant to identify with that market segment. Why is that so?

There is no in-house directive that taboos the term as such. But it is true that the term luxury has become rather overused.

Today, everyone who opens a nice restaurant or hotel, manufactures kitchens, or publishes magazines simply labels it as luxury. Everything expensive is called luxury. Then there is all the glamour, show, and marketing, as well as the “people effect” created by the VIPs endorsing other brands. We have distanced ourselves from all that. However, if the term stands for unconditional quality standards and aesthetics, then Hermès is luxury.

What is the strategy behind the long waiting period for models such as Kelly and Birkin?

If that was a deliberate strategy, we should be awarded the Nobel Prize for marketing. (laughs) Believe me, it is very difficult to tell customers who visit our stores that they can’t or can’t yet have a product. The waiting lists for those bags are

caused by the complexity of the manufacturing process and their commercial success. The global supply of leather that meets our standards is simply smaller than the demand. Furthermore, every bag is individually manufactured by a single craftsman.

We offer a choice of dozens of different leather types, as well as hundreds of combination possibilities regarding colours, fastening mechanisms, and sizes.

This high-quality workforce is also limited. Today, we have 2,790 craftsmen in our leather department, which is already five times as many as when I started at Hermès.

In your capacity as VP sales, it is your job to increase the turnover. On the other hand, Hermès also profits from the rarity of its products.

It is a truly schizophrenic task. (smiles) A brand becomes less desirable the larger and more present it becomes. However, a brand also grows faster when it is desirable. This is the paradox of the market. Our approach is really fairly simple. We want to put in a strong performance, but with a highly limited number of stores and a very broad product range. We don’t focus on volume. Even our bestsellers ties, silk scarves, and perfumes for instance - are distributed in relatively small numbers. We could, of course, say that our bag division should only produce the Birkin and Kelly models from now on. So if there is a strategy behind it, then it is to avoid exactly that. We are not a company that strives to generate a turnover of four billion by selling one or two bag models; that would be too short-sighted. Our strategy is to excite our customers with a new diverse product range every year.

How does the move into the online retailing market fit into your strategy?

That is undoubtedly one of the distribution channels of the future. Among the younger generation it already is a vital channel.

In the US, Hermès has been

In his capacity as the VP for sales, Florian Crean is respon­ sible for the international expansion of Hermès.

active on the online market for thirteen years, compared to ten years in Europe. Incidentally, not everyone in our company was of the opinion that this decision of our former president, Jean-Louis Dumas, was correct at the time.

The online business is still a fairly small unit at Hermès, but it is growing. One thing is certain: many consumers now make first contact with a brand online, not in a boutique. Dumas’ opinion on the issue was crystal clear. It is not a question of “if ”, but a question of “when”. Some may say that Hermès has the image of a conservative company with a rich heritage, but we have always been an innovator, not only on a creative level, but also on the distribution side. 25 years ago, we were one of the first brands to open stores in airports. From 1978 onwards, we cancelled all licensing agreements and focused solely on in-house production.

You offer a bicycle for 8,100 Euros and a bathing robe for 1,000 Euros. How does Hermès guarantee the quality of such “alien” product groups? How can the customer be sure that the bicycle is not merely expensive because it has the brand name on it?

I believe that we have earned the reputation that quality standards are the signature of Hermès.

Those who buy a bicycle at such a price know that they are getting a strictly limited and technically perfect product, which has gone through a long development process to ensure that it doesn’t fail to meet expectations. We take our time before we introduce a new product to the market.

You organise craft festivals that, for instance, communicate how elaborate the pro-

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And they hear that many craftsmen stay at Hermès for their entire working life. Today, we are optimistic that Hermès will remain “made in France”.

Why did you decide to join Hermès in 1997?

It was a coincidence. I am sorry to have to disappoint you.

Back then, the brand was not as exposed as it is today. I was attracted to the company by its quality standards and base work.

I came from the pharmaceuticals industry and, to be honest, had little knowledge or personal idea of what Hermès stands for. Outsiders may be intimidated by the heritage and believe the company is stuck in its own tradition. The opposite is the case. What really touched me - and all others who have close contact with the brand - is the respectful and natural interaction with each other.

You say that you consider yourself a part of the family now. Today, Hermès is a family-owned company with slightly less than 12,000 employees.

How can one understand the esprit on such a large scale?

In Hermès’ Parisian studio, the master craftsmen of their trade work on the products that are coveted around the globe.

cess of producing a silk cloth is. What is the idea behind that? Are such events aimed at justifying a price that is significantly higher than competitors? Or is it an attempt to advertise the appreciation of craftsmanship?

Master craftsmanship is the DNA of Hermès. That’s what we communicate most of all. The opportunity to touch a product, and to experience it first hand, is immensely important, especially in the virtualised world of today.

We cannot permanently offer guided tours through our studios, so we decided to go out and meet our customers. Naturally, consumers, who are sensitive to manual “savoir faire”, might understand the pricing strategy better afterwards.

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Do you find it difficult to attract young talent?

Hermès has to deal with two rare commodities. It is difficult enough to find raw materials - let’s say silk or leather – with sufficient quality levels, but it is equally difficult to find craftsmen, whom we train in-house and in cooperation with certain schools. One month ago, I visited Seloncourt, which is located in eastern France, where we have recruited 500 trainees for the next three years. There were significantly more applicants than training places. In this respect, the younger generation has been changing over the last few years.

Many younger people want to work in their home country and want a recession-proof job. They want to learn skills that are rare.

Back when I started working here, the chief executive knew every employee. This is obviously no longer possible, but it does help that many of my colleagues have been with the company for 40 years. Furthermore, the majority of the shares are in family hands and the family is also still represented in the management.

That changes everything. In fact, I have always deliberately only worked for companies in which incarnate people stand for, and behind, their own work. Such companies have a long-term outlook and don’t focus on shortterm profit. My position paper tells me to ensure that Hermès is as successful as it is now for the next generation. It doesn’t say that I will get a bonus if I manage to meet certain targets over the next two years.

Do you think the world needs more of such family-run companies?

Yes, I do believe that. There are enough surveys to prove that family-owned companies are better equipped to survive crises, mainly because they have a longterm perspective.

How can one combine the family aspect with the IPO in 1993?

Listing on the stock exchange goes hand in hand with a certain loss of control. You are no longer the sole captain of your fate. As you know, Hermès did encounter difficulties during that time. However, Hermès is also a shining example that proves it is possible to be a flourishing family-run company and still be listed at the same time.

With this business concept in the background, does that mean that the growth potential of Hermès has natural limits?

That is the almost philosophical question that we ask ourselves on a daily basis. Theoretically that is the case, but practically not yet. Let’s not forget that Hermès was a strong brand in Western Europe, Japan, and the East Coast of the US towards the end of the 1990s. Today, we have operations in many more countries and have expanded our production capacities accordingly. New markets will continue to grow and we will continue to serve them. However, we will never stray from our principle to offer quality, not quantity.

What is Hermès’ greatest challenge?

The greatest challenge is to grow without losing the brand identity.

Thank you very much for the interview.

Florian Craen studied at the Ecole Supérieure du Commerce Exterieur and the Harvard Business School. He initially worked as a regional manager for the travel retail unit and was later named managing director of that division. In 2006, he was appointed as the managing director of Hermès’ subsidiary in England and subsequently took over the North Asia region in 2009.

The Hermès horse grew wings in the 1990s. The former saddler with 177 years of history has developed into a global player offering products ranging from fashion to furniture. The group has managed to increase its turnover from 435 million Euros (1993) to significantly more than 3.7 billion Euros in 2013. The French family-owned business is seen as the “crown jewel of the luxury goods industry” due to its exceptionally high profitability.

DNA FURLA SEEME GRACE HUNTER ST.EMILE COLMAR MARLINO POST&CO 120% LINO 0039 ITALY FTC CASHMERE LUA ACCESSORIES COLMAR ORIGINALS NINE:INTHE:MORNING VINTAGE RACING 1683 TOP-TEE LUXURY T-SHIRT ALESSANDRA CHAMONIX TWIN-SET BY SIMONA BARBIERI OSC OUTDOOR SURVIVAL CANADA COLLECTIONEN CHRISTIAN TEUFL | VIERTHALERSTRASSE 11 | 5020 SALZBURG TEL. +43 662 452832 | OFFICE@TEUFL.CC | WWW.TEUFL.CC

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Trade Discourse

Exchange of Goods - Win/Win or Bad Business?

The exchange of goods has become a common tool; it is actively offered by distributors, and gratefully accepted by retailers. However, does the exchange of goods make us stupid? Is it a bit like a navigation system that shows us the way without any need for further thought?

Isn’t a brand more desirable when it simply says “no”?

And wouldn’t everyone earn more money without less exchange of goods?

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interview partners.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

Matthias Schwarte This Service Costs Us All Money

“For me it depends on who I allow to exchange goods. Is it a retailer who made a wrong decision for the first time? In such a case I am more than happy to help. However, if a retailer calls me every season to exchange the green items for dark blue ones, then I have to start wondering why he bought the items in the first place. I am equally against exchanges when retailers say that one product doesn’t sell and they’d like to try something else.

The cooperation between the two parties should be seen as a partnership. It obviously also requires that the retailer - and its staff - sells the goods actively and with dedication.

When I speak of partnership, I also have to be willing to allow an exchange of goods based on a complaint that may not seem justified, or at least merely partly justified. In such cases we are happy to do our customers a favour, especially as we also profit from good sales results. It is also

possible that some goods are extremely popular at retailer X in Hamburg, but complete duds at retailer Y in Munich. We can bring those two particular parties together to find a solution. As an agency, we need to be close to the market to achieve this.

Often, however, the exchange fails because of product availability. After all, we are speaking about exchanging slow-selling products for fast-selling ones.

The latter are only in stock for a short period of time, because they are re-ordered by others.

Furthermore, the timing is an important issue, mainly to make sure that the exchanged goods can be sold at the PoS swiftly.

I would therefore say that the exchange of goods should be an exception, not a rule. No matter which

way you look at it, the service costs us all money. Out of principle, our agency prefers to work with companies that don’t operate large outlets. Also, it must be taken into consideration that the slow-selling goods still need to be promoted. Ultimatestyle in progress 115

138 WHAT'S THE STORY MORE/LESS

ly, the collection becomes more expensive to cover the increased costs. Nothing comes for free.”

Chantal-Natalie Clermont Definitely Lucrative

“The option to exchange goods during the season can definitely be lucrative. A prerequisite is that such a measure is used with great care and to ensure that the benefits outweigh the additional costs. An exchange can significantly enhance the success of a product or brand. It can also support a revenue-generating partnership in the long term.

For us, the exchange of so-called slow-sellers against fast-sellers gives us an opportunity to react

Matthias Schwarte, who runs a fashion agency under his own name, specialises in high-end sportswear collections by the likes of Armani Jeans, Parajumpers, Lodenfrey 1842, and Daniele Fiesoli. Schwarte believes that an innovative portfolio is just as important as excellent customer relations. www.agentur-schwarte.de

ties in every respect. However, everyone can back the wrong horse from time to time. That’s an everyday risk in our business.

Chantal-Natalie Clermont is the senior merchandise manager for the buying division of the store Jades and the affiliated online shop Jades24. The company Jades GmbH was founded 13 years ago.

With its Düsseldorf-based stores Jades, More Jades, and the online shop, the company is dedicated to the premium fashion market. www.jades24.com

to customer needs, or even trends, on short notice. The decisive factor is the product range and which alternatives it harbours during a season, based on its depth and width. The timing is equally essential, especially as many products experience a boost at different points in the season. Naturally, we are also dependent on the availability of goods in the warehouses of our suppliers. We normally bring up such cooperation possibilities during the order process in the showroom to ensure that the supplier is on board as early as possible and to, where appropriate, define the terms for a potential exchange.

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The exchange of goods has absolutely no negative impact on the buying or selling process, quite the contrary. It gives us much more flexibility in terms of managing our sales areas and online shop, which significantly reduces our risks.

Our main goal is to ensure that both sides have a successful season with a brand. The best case scenario is continual growth.

Basically, it can only benefit both sides if a flexible exchange leads to the best possible results.”

Paolo Rossi Customer Care 2.0

“Our priority is to build a solid long-term customer partnership based on trust. As a basis for this, we have a large product range consisting of approximately 40,000 items for men and women, which we produce in all sorts of sizes, colours, and styles.

The exchange of goods can be an important tool within such a partnership. After all, the customers placed their pre-order early, which means they couldn’t know how the trends would develop throughout the season.

The exchanged items enable the retailer to win over customers with the huge product range of Alpha Studio. This also makes our brand more visible at the PoS.

Paolo Rossi is the co-owner of Alpha Studio in the Tuscan town of Comeana. Alpha Studio is the knitwear brand of Franco Rossi S.r.L., founded 30 years ago. The collection is still based on its initial core competence and has 600 retail customers in Europe, the Russian Federation, Japan, China, and Canada. www.francorossi.it

We have worked hard to improve our customer service over the last few years. One example is our B2B platform, which allows the customers to check the availability of a product online and possibly take action accordingly. This also works via our application for tablets. The ordered goods are delivered to the PoS within 48 hours; the exchange of goods can be organised equally as fast and uncomplicated online.

We want to take care of our customers, not only during the time between the order and delivery, but also beyond that point. This also implies that the customers can exchange goods during the season itself and that we ensure they don’t lose money by granting a discount. Ultimately,

the aim of any partnership is to earn money together. If the customers can increase their sell-out with an exchange, we benefit from that too.”

Hannes Profanter We Cannot Afford Inaccuracy

“If the companies in question are well structured and have easy handling processes, the exchange of goods can be beneficial for all involved parties.

However, it is essential to react as soon as it becomes clear that a certain colour or product isn’t

working. In such cases, many companies are willing to act, because they are interested in a successful partnership. But some companies delay the processing of an exchange request too long.

If the goods were delivered in January and we can’t process an exchange until May, then the season is already over. If you need an exchange, it has to happen instantly.

Retailers order nearly a year in advance. In our case, we offer approximately 80,000 items. It is important to find the best goods within that product range, while also presenting new items. One can easily make a mistake during the selection process; one can’t always predict developments during such a long time span.

Sometimes the industry and retailers see trends that never reach the consumers.

Hannes Profanter and his wife, Maria Profanter, run nine multi-label stores under the brand name Maximilian in South Tyrol. The stores are located in sites such as Bozen, Brixen, Bruneck, and Sterzing. They also operate an online shop named Maximilian.it. Hannes Profanter’s motto: “Live fashion with soul and passion - always with ease.” www.maximilian.it

Does the possibility of an exchange make us stupid or does it mean that we don’t concentrate properly during the order period? I don’t believe that’s the case at all. We always try to work diligently. We gather information in advance, limit the budgets, and act to the best of our knowledge and conscience. We cannot afford inaccuracy.”

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Gold Rush Smith’s American.

Everything that looks in the slightest like vintage is given a background story and a bit of patina before being thrust into the market as a tremendously authentic product.

This does not apply to Smith’s American. They really are authentic in the best sense of the word.

Text: Dörte Welti.

Photos: Smith’s American

Recently in Zurich: the phone of the author rings; a rather helpless PR lady is on the line. She has a host of guests from Dubai in tow and has prepared a shopping tour that covers the usual luxury brands. However, this particular group wants vintage fashion, vintage watches, vintage shoes, and vintage accessories. This is an easily transferable scenario, as it seems that one can currently sell anything that has a background story, looks really old despite being completely new, and bears the attribute “vintage”. Sadly, this is often a mere marketing strategy.

A New Face for Women

In this respect, Smith’s American really doesn’t need to justify itself. It is proven beyond doubt that the brand dates back as

far as 1906. Back then, the Boshnack family, who moved to New York from Eastern Europe, started producing work clothes – mostly trousers and overalls – for the never-ending stream of immigrants arriving at Ellis Island in search of a new life.

Their motto: “When work needs to be done, we have the clothes for it.” Bridge s.r.l., a company headquartered in Maser, Treviso (Italy), has secured the European license for producing clothing, shoes, accessories, and bags under the original brand name.

It does just that for men, but the lads now wear the clothes in the office rather than on construction sites. For the women’s line, CEO Adalberto Zordan and his creative director Fabrizio Ferraro secured the enthusiastic support of a woman who is the best at bridging the gap between the US and Italy, fashion designer Michela Goldschmied. The name resemblance is real; she is married to Adriano, the godfather of the Italo-American premium denim hype.

Pushing into the Gap

History - this striped material was approved as an official fabric by the workers’ union in 1918.

Role models - the working women from the early days of the US’s rise to power.

Goldschmied is actually an interior designer by profession and leads a life between two locations, Asolo in Italy and Hollywood in Los Angeles, California. Her courage to push into gaps enables her to give the authentic cuts of Smith’s America’s collection an aura that acknowledges tradition while still being open for innovations.

The many interior design reports published about Goldschmied’s own house in Asolo show a style somewhere between antique and Laura Ashley on speed. This may seem kitschy at first glance, but its colourfulness is actually not tasteless at all and even surprisingly harmonious. This approach is also apparent in the working clothes range, which is normally not that creative. One can find elements such as pink embroidered emblems, lilac shoe laces, and green details. These elements make all the difference; they are placed carefully with a self-evident effect. Naturally, the women’s collection is now called Smith’s by Michela

She believes jeans are “the best piece of clothing in the world” Michela Goldschmied at White Milano in September 2014.

Goldschmied, or MG, as her name is abbreviated. Her name tag is not to be confused with the car brand MG, which also triggers fond memories. The company itself describes Michela Goldschmied as “a star that has risen”. She is definitely a star that radiates bouncy happiness.

Bridge srl Via Enrico Mattei, 8/B 31010 Maser (TV)/Italy T 0039.0423.925043 info@bridgesrl.it Smith’s American since 1906 Distributor for Germany and Austria: Dominik Meuer Die Hinterhofagentur Siegesstr. 23 80802 Munich/Germany T 0049.89.38887747-48 d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de

www.smithsamerican.eu

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140 WHAT'S THE STORY

Global Expansion WP Lavori in Corso.

Following spectacular store openings in Tokyo, New York, Prague, and Hamburg, Cristina Calori, the owner of WP Lavori in Corso, and Andrea Cané, the creative director of the group, want to dedicate the next few years to the global retail expansion of Woolrich. The to-do list of the sportswear and outdoor specialist includes stores in Russia, Asia, and North America, but also in Germany.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: WP Lavori, Woolrich

We met up with Cristina Calori and Andrea Cané in the Milan-based Woolrich showroom for a preview of the autumn/ winter 2015 collection. “We combine current cuts, classic silhouettes, and the history of the US brand Woolrich to create a truly contemporary product. We keep our models clean and don’t smother them with too many details”, Andrea Cané explains.

Approximately 15% of the production process takes place in the US and Canada, 35% in China, 15% in Eastern Europe, and the rest in Western Europe, Tunisia, and Turkey. A special highlight spices up every season and creates quite a buzz in the industry. A parka with a water repellent wool surface, which was developed in cooperation with Loro Piana, is just one of these special highlights.

Growth Path

“Last year, Woolrich generated worldwide sales of 110 million Euros; in the autumn/winter 2014 season alone we managed to achieve 30% growth.

The same applies to our online shop, which so far accounts for 2% of total sales”, says Cristina Calori. “The Italian market is the most important one for Woolrich, closely followed by the German-speaking countries and the Benelux states. Società Italia, a company with many years of experience in the retail and wholesale industries, is our new distributor for the Russian market. We expect good growth rates.” The first store in Eastern Europe was opened in Prague in July 2014, and a store in Moscow is already on the agenda.

There are also plans for stores in Portland, Chicago, Boston, Montreal, and Toronto, as well as a second branch in New York.

In Asia, Woolrich so far only has a presence in Japan and Korea.

The first store in Tokyo was opened last September and is managed by Yogi Tsusho Ltd, the local distribution partner. “The Japanese are masters of their craft when it comes to brand and store presentation concepts.

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They are world leaders in terms of service and advice. The sales advisors know every little detail and are excellently informed about the products they represent. What is the rule in Japan, is still an exception in the US and Europe”, Cané says.

Focus on Germany

“Our experience has shown that opening a Woolrich store leads to an increase of sales for our existing specialised retail partners in that region, mainly because the customers have the opportunity to fully experience the brand’s product variety”, Cané explains.

“As an owner-managed company in private hands, we can only open five to six stores per year around the globe. And we only do that for the delivery in the autumn season, because we generate 70% of our sales with the autumn/winter collections”, Calori adds. “Currently, we are looking for suitable properties in Düsseldorf, Cologne, Frankfurt, and - sooner or later - Berlin.

Other locations on our wish list include Kitzbühel for Woolrich, as well as Seoul and Paris for a WP Store.”

In 1982, WP Lavori in Corso was founded as a multi-brand store in Bologna

by Cristina Calori. She subsequently took over sales and distribution duties for brands such as Vans, Blundstone, Barbour, and - a little later - Woolrich.

Today, the production and design processes are managed from Italy, as is the entire European sales and distribution network. Alongside the Woolrich flagship store, the group also operates 14 multi-brand stores under the name WP Store in cities such as Rome, Florence, Milan, New York, and Seoul. www.wplavori.com www.woolrich.eu

WHAT'S THE STORY 141

Creative director Andrea Cané creates a unique blend of US heritage, Italian fashion sense, and Japanese product obsession.

WP Lavori owner Cristina Calori started her career in the retail industry and is enjoying her return with Woolrich and WP Stores.

A facade dominated by Woolrich diamonds, an interior solely focused on the product - the store on Tokyo’s shopping street “Omotesando” is truly exemplary.

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142 WHAT'S THE STORY

Trends at the Push of a Button Atos Lombardini.

Speed is an integral part of the craftsmanship of the fashion label Atos Lombardini. Bologna-based Lombardini, the parent company, has been the embodiment of fashionable collections “Made in Italy” since 1986.

Text: Ina Köhler.

Photos: Atos Lombardini

Lombardini Spa, a classic “Pronto Moda” specialist that produces its Atos Lombardini collections and its secondary line, Violet, in Italy, is always a step ahead of the trend. The group’s head office is located in “Centergross” near Bologna, a district that is seen as prototypical for Italian fast fashion.

Design, production, collection development, logistics, and sales are based there. Atos Lombardini and his wife, Silvana, founded the eponymous company as early as 1986. Their vision was to combine the know-how and the excellent quality of Italian production plants, thus enabling the swift implementation of the newest prêt-à-porter trends. The couple’s two daughters, Elena and Alessandra, joined the family business in the 90s. Today, Alessandra is responsible for style and production issues, while Elena coordinates commercial

An excellent business relationship - Elena and Alessandra Lombardini, the daughters of Atos Lombardini, the founder of the fashion house.

aspects and the communications department. The group is heading for further growth and is eager to increase the standing of the brand. The showroom in Milan’s “Via Manzoni”, which was opened in 2012, is aimed at the ever-growing foreign markets, which already contribute approximately 70% to the group’s total turnover. In 2013, the company generated 25 million Euros. Next year, it hopes to grow by another 10% with its 700 customers.

The expansion via own stores, in cities such as Milan, Rome, Florence, Forte dei Marmi, Bari, Antwerp, and Nice, is an important factor in the brand development strategy. In addition, the Lombardini family has managed to establish shop-inshop concepts in department stores like Coin in Milan, Rome, and Venice. Alongside the Italian home market, the key markets include Asia, Russia, the Benelux states, France, the Middle East, and other European countries.

The Munich-based fashion agency D-tails, owned by Patrick Copolecchia-Reinartz, is Atos Lombardini’s representative in Germany and Switzerland , while Aco Modeagentur covers Austria.

In its first season, the trend label managed to secure no less than 30 customers, including Tutto in Frankfurt, as well as Benesch in Landsberg and Augsburg.

sories, which can be delivered within two to three days. The average purchase price stands at 80 Euros; the collection’s 3.0 calculation factor is particularly appealing to the retail industry.

Atos Lombardini stands for fashionable complete looks, which are bundled in a 250-item collection four times per year.

Each range is complemented by 50 fashionable accessories.

These include the likes of shoes and belts, which can be easily combined with the main outfits.

Violet, the younger and more unconventional fashion line, is not available in Germany at the moment. The secondary label breaks free from the complete look concept by focusing on “mix & match”. In summer 2015, the looks offered by Atos Lombardini will include highly fashionable 70s style striped suits, Lurex pullovers, jogging pants, and tunics, as well as eye-catching prints on soft jersey fabrics or Crèpe-de-Chine silk.

The collection development process was inspired by the Mediterranean. These are definitely not mere basics, but appetisers for more fast fashion…

Appetite for Fashion “Pronto Moda” for an exceptional look - complete collections can be delivered at short notice.

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The core business of the Italian group consists of fashionable women’s collection and acces-

www.atoslombardini.com

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Unmistakable Candice Cooper. How can one take the shoe industry by storm? Christoph Siegel’s Candice Cooper has shown how it can be done. His shoes, manufactured in Italy, convince customers in terms of price and fashion.

Text: Ina Köhler.

Photos: Candice Cooper

Christoph Siegel knows the shoe industry inside out. He has been working in the industry for approximately 40 years and has accompanied the lifecycle of many a brand. Seven years ago, Siegel decided that is was time to introduce his own label to the market. Candice Cooper swiftly established itself as a manufacturer of fashionable shoes that are just as comfortable as sporty sneakers. The look is characterised by unusual materials, soft leather, braided surfaces, neoprene, mesh, bold 3D prints, and acrylic rubber coatings. The designs always have an extremely high recognition value. “We trademark many details and actively fight copyists”, says Siegel.

“This ensures that my customers have a truly exclusive product in their stores.” Unlike other brands, he managed to break into the market via the textile retail industry, which accounts for almost three quarters of his customer base. “We are strongly focused on textile trends and adapt our models accordingly.”

In the German-speaking countries alone, Candice Cooper supplies 1,800 shops, among them premium stores such as Stiesing,

Washed, varnished, or printed - every shoe has an unmistakable design.

Classico, Zumnorde, and Prange.

The brand also has numerous international customers, including Colette and L’Eclaireur in Paris.

And in addition to Europe, the label has also established a client base in countries such as Japan, Australia, Russia, South Korea, and the US. Candice Cooper plans to open its own stores in China next year. Christoph Siegel represents his brand at numerous trade fairs in cities like Düsseldorf, Berlin, Paris, and even Las Vegas.

A Beautiful Product

His recipe for success seems fairly simple. “I want to supply a beautiful product, with high quality standards and a strong fashion statement, at a price level that appeals to a wide audience.

I want the shoes to be luxurious, yet still accessible for the consumers”, explains Siegel, who is also the driving force behind all design aspects of the brand. Accordingly, he supplies shoes that are at the entry level to the luxury footwear segment of premium stores; the retail prices range from 169 to 299 Euros. All models are manufactured in Italy, the cradle of shoemaking, which is

A true industry professional Christoph Siegel has positioned Candice Cooper as a supplier of affordable premium products.

also where he sources materials such as the soft Tamponata leather. This decision was made quite deliberately. “The ‘Made in Italy’ aspect is becoming increasingly important for customers”, Siegel says. “You cannot only see that it is an Italian product, you can feel it too.” Candice Cooper launches two collections per year and is mainly focused on women’s footwear. “We believe that it’s extremely important to ensure that the sales department is in charge of the collection development process, which thus ensures that the goods are delivered to the customers at the right time”, Siegel explains. In October 2014, Candice Cooper opened another showroom in Düsseldorf ’s “Kaiserswerther Strasse”, which is decorated in an unmistakable vintage look. The showroom is just as individual as the shoes; every model develops its own distinct character.

www.candicecooper.net

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144 WHAT'S THE STORY

Full Steam Ahead minimum. The Minimum brand is represented in more than 20 countries in Europe, Asia, Australia, and Canada.

It has increased its turnover by no less than 25% over the last five years. Now the Danes have started introducing shop-in-shop concepts at strategic points of sale and only recently opened the first flagship store in Aarhus, where the brand also has its headquarters.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: Minimum

Minimum’s agenda for the coming seasons is rather full. Due to the recent economic recovery in Spain, the brand secured a distributor for that particular market one year ago. Furthermore, a move into the Russian market is imminent. And last summer, Minimum introduced the first 30-item capsule collection in cooperation with the Danish rock band Dúné.

“We moved into our new headquarters in Aarhus four years ago and introduced the EDI process one and a half years ago. Those were important steps as part of our growth strategy”, says Peder Tang, the owner and chief operating officer of Minimum. He is responsible for brand develop-

ment together with Jacob Fisker, the co-owner and chief executive of the company. “We perceive ourselves as marathon runners rather than sprinters. We listen to our customers very carefully and assess the market before we make decisions. This strategy has worked brilliantly for us over the last 17 years. We believe that the steady growth, which our owner-managed company generates without the assistance of external investors, proves this strategy right”, the 40 year old businessman adds.

The next step at Minimum is the introduction of a Radio Frequency Identification [RFID] system.

This system stores an “Electronic Product Code” that makes a

product identifiable worldwide on a paper-thin RFID chip. The technology is set to replace the current EAN barcode.

Retail Expansion

The Danes describe their collection as the “missing link” between the denim and designer fashion business segments.

Minimum is positioned in the commercial medium/high price range, and has an attractive calculation factor of 2.7. The brand launches four main collections per year. It complements its product base with five express collections and a highly successful stock programme of basics, with a 3.0 calculation factor.

This guarantees a well-balanced

The Minimum flagship store is aimed at generating direct feedback and doesn’t signal a strategy shift: the Danish brand remains focused on listings in international multi-label stores.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 145

product range that is always in line with current trends. When an order reaches an appropriate size, the brand even considers special “make ups” for wholesale customers. Minimum is known for having both ears at the pulse of the market at all times.

“We know what we are and what we can do. We don’t pretend to produce high-end designer fashion. We focus on value for money, fabric quality, and good-looking cuts that are both comfortable and wearable”, Peder Tang explains.

The first five shop-in-shop systems were presented in Denmark in spring this year. The project at Galeries Lafayette in Paris was introduced last autumn. The first shop-in-shop projects in the German-speaking region, which is the most important market for Minimum based on turnover, are imminent. “We have tested the system extensively on our home market and discussed how to proceed with local partners.

Now we’re eager to push ahead and tackle the next projects”, Peder Tang says. Minimum opened its first flagship store on Aarhus’ main shopping street on the 14th of November. The main idea behind this 500 square metre store is to receive direct consumer feedback. It is also seen as a springboard for developing and testing a franchise store concept for countries such as Norway, the Netherlands, and Germany. Peder Tang: “We want to gain experience while improving our collections, concepts, and processes. We have no plans to create more competition for our retailers by opening our own chain of stores. Our focus is on the international wholesale segment.”

Minimum’s complete collections for women and men are defined by the typical contemporary and restrained Scandinavian style.

Peder Tang, the founder and COO of Minimum, is a true family man: excellent wines and extraordinary architecture are his other passions.

The Minimum brand was founded as a store in Aarhus by Peder Tang in 1997.

The first men’s collection was introduced to the wholesale market in 1999.

Minimum subsequently introduced a collection for women in 2007. Today, Minimum employs no less than 70 people at its headquarters. Since the summer of 2008, Berlin-based general agency Deluxe Distribution acts as distributor for Germany and Austria. The new Minimum Extended fashion line will make its debut at the Pitti Uomo fashion show in Florence. The men’s collection was developed for the “dressed-up” segment. www.minimum.dk

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Your Private Hideaway

www.premiumchalet-karneralm.com . www.facebook.com/Premiumchalet

PREMIUM CHALET

KARNERALM BIOSPHERE PARK LUNGAU

info@premiumchalet-karneralm.com

Photos: Daniel Roche Art direction & production: Mody Al Khufash@JLFF studio Hair/Make-up: Benjamin Becher@Nina Klein, with products by Kevin Murphy and Dior Model: Leoni@Model 148 MODE Management Fashion assistance: Helena Grierson@JLFF studio

DENIM IS

SEXY

Jacket: Blaumax Blouse: Tommy Hilfiger Overall: Gas Bra: Princesse TamTam Blouse: Tommy Hilfiger Denim 115 style in progress

MODE 149

Jacket: Blauer USA Shorts: True Religion Brand Jeans Slip: Marlies Dekkers style in progress 115

Jacket: Marc O’Polo Vest: Gas Jeans: Cinque Ankle boots: Cinque

Jacket: Marlino Jeans: Deyk

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MODE 151

Blouse: 0039 Italy Bra: Princesse TamTam style in progress 115

152 MODE

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MODE 153 Jacket: Pepe Jeans London Jeans: Marc O’Polo Ankle boots: Cinque

Vest: Schott NYC Shirt: Closed Jeans: Gardeur

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154 MODE Vest: Schott NYC Bra: Marlies Dekkers

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MODEMavi 155 Blouse: Jeans: Alberto Ankle boots: Cinque

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Photos: Harling & Darsell Art direction & production: Mody Al Khufash@JLFF studio Hair/Make-up: Benjamin Becher@Nina Klein, with products by Kevin Murphy and Dior Model: Eugen@Mega Model Agency Fashion assistance: Helena Grierson@JLFF studio

Jacket: Sand Pullover: Tommy Hilfiger Trousers: Herr von Eden Shoes: Superga

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MODE 157

Coat: Breco’s Scarf: Herr von Eden Shirt: Tommy Hilfiger Trousers: Boulezar style in progress 115

Jacket: Marc O’Polo Shirt: Woolrich Pullover: Wool & Co Trousers: Marc O’Polo

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Jacket: Meindl Handkerchief: Herr von Eden Trousers: Drykorn Shoes: Floris van Bommel

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160 MODE Coat: Gas Sports jacket: Cinque Shirt: Sand Trousers: Gardeur

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Jacket: Wool & Co Shirt: Drykorn Waistcoat: Matchless Trousers: G Design Shoes: Cinque

Weste: Schott NYC Hemd: Closed Jeans: Gardeur

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162 MODE Trench coat: Stone Island Sports jacket: Breco’s Waistcoat: Luigi Borelli Pullover: Wool & Co Trousers: Herr von Eden

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MODEBob 163 Sports jacket: Waistcoat: Windsor Shirt: AG Trousers: Alberto

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164 IN STORE

Tangible passion for fashion – the store located in “Kaiser Galerie” represents the largest investment in the corporate history of Braun.

Lars Braun is at the helm of the family business and – what else would one expect? – does so with style.

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IN STORE 165

The Grand Entrance Braun/Hamburg. Braun is an institution for men’s fashion in the hanseatic city. In addition to its parent store located in “Mönckebergstrasse”, the fashion specialist has set a new standard yet again with its new shop in “Kaiser Galerie”.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Braun

This location was the home of the Ohnsorg Theatre for more than 75 years, but now – following an elaborate renovation process – the old counting house has been transformed into a very classy shopping destination with exclusive shops such as Escada, Unger, and the new branch of Braun.

Masculine Noblesse

It was actually a mere relocation; the second Braun branch was initially located in “Bergstrasse”.

However, the term relocation does not do this new store justice. “Here we can present ourselves in a completely different manner”, says Lars Braun, who is currently at the helm of the family-owned company. “Completely different” translates into 1,200 square metres of sales area (three times as large as before).

The new store is characterised by a welcoming atmosphere with a colour scheme that incorporates cream colours, grey/beige tones, and even dark brown elements.

The entire interior design underlines the masculine noblesse that the company stands for. Various natural stone floorings conjure up the spirit of the construction techniques from the late 19th

century, while the walls are panelled with marble. Filigree glass cabinets and presentation tables made of dark wood and metal embody the modern side of the business alongside the touch-screens that connect the customers with the Internet and therefore the Braun online shop.

A sweeping staircase leads to the top floor, where one can marvel at more classic elegance. “Our customers expect something unique; something that Germany hasn’t seen in this size and with such high standards”, Lars Braun explains.

Service Strength

Braun’s standards have always been extremely high. The philosophy of the family-owned company, founded by Lars Braun’s grandfather Erich Braun in 1933, is to be unique and incomparable. “We always strive to set ourselves apart by offering quality and individuality at the highest levels while still moving with the current zeitgeist”, Lars Braun says. This is reflected in the fashionable product range, including fashion by Maison Martin Margiela, which Braun sees as one of the few “wearable” stylists characterised by detailed

Braun focuses on brands in its new branch, but never neglects its own unique identity.

processing techniques. Neil Barrett stands for men’s readyto-wear fashion with an excellent price-performance ratio, while Incotex provides chinos with a good fit in a variety of washings.

Brunello Cucinelli is yet another major part of Braun’s product range. “It’s truly sensational how that particular collection develops further every season”, Lars Braun points out.

The other pillar of Braun’s success is its extraordinary service approach. “We don’t have a single employee with a fixed-term contract”, Lars Braun reveals. “This enables us to bond even better as a team and sustain the high service levels that we are so immensely proud of.” In this respect, the new store raised the bar yet again. It employs a concierge, who can answer questions about Hamburg in general or organise tickets for football matches and concerts. He can even ensure the customer gets a table in the trendiest restaurant in town.

Braun Hamburg GmbH & Co. KG Grosse Bleichen 27, 20354 Hamburg www.braun-hamburg.de Opening after renovation: October 2014 Owner and chief executive: Jean and Lars Braun Sales employees: 13 Sales area: 1,200 sqm Men’s brands: Alden, Allegri, Ami, Armani, Balzonella, Belstaff, Boss, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Campanile, Canali, Care Label, Car Shoe, Caruso, Cruciani, Dondup, Drumohr, Eleventy, Ecoalf, Etro, Fay, Finamore, Glanshirt, Harris Wharf, Hogan, Incotex, Jacob Cohen, J Brand, Kenzo, Larusmani, Loro Piana, Luigi Borrelli, Magnanni, Majestic, Maison Martin Margiela, Mason’s, Mastercraft Union, Montedoro, Moorer, Mosaique, Neil Barrett, Orlebar Brown, Pantofola d’Oro, Parajumpers, Peuterey, Santoni, Stile Latino, Truzzi, Van Laack, Wahts, Zanone, Zegna, Z Zegna Accessories brands: Bottega Veneta, Etro, Margiela Shoes and Accessoires, Mykita, Neil Barrett Sunglasses, Pierre Louis Mascia

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House of Superlatives Hirmer/Munich. The expansion and remodelling project took no less than six years. Since October 2014, the menswear specialist Hirmer can spread out over generous 9,000 square metres, and has focused its product range competence on the lifestyle segment.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Robert Sprang

Even the entrance is truly spectacular. A portal door with an increased height of 3.5 metres allows passers-by to catch a glimpse of the luxuriously designed interior that resembles a hotel lobby. The elevators are bronze plated, while the ceiling is adorned with large inlays made of dark leather. “We wanted to ensure that the customers feel that we are the world’s largest menswear house as soon as they enter the building”, says Frank Troch, the managing director of Hirmer.

New Stage

Hirmer also thinks in superlatives in terms of product range.

After all, the store stocks 94 different sizes and more than 400 individual brands. The basis is formed by the traditional departments, which include the trousers section with 15,000 pairs by the likes of Baldessarini, Boss, Hiltl, Brax, Cinque, and 7 For All Mankind, as well as the suit department with 6,000 items by brands such as Boss, E. Dressler, Hackett, Polo Ralph Lauren, René Lazard, and Tommy Hilfiger. Hirmer also boasts a business centred shoe section with pairs by the likes of Tom Rusborg, Church’s, Paul Smith, Santoni, and John Lobb.

The store never lacked a comprehensive product range, but was a bit light on the lifestyle aspect in the past. Hirmer, a family-owned company currently managed by the third generation, has now moved to address this

issue. The modernised traditional departments are now complemented by experience areas such as “Landlust”, which displays Alpine-inspired outfits in a rustic setting with rough slates on the floor and larch split-wood on the walls. The “Loft” area is for fashion-wise individuals who will enjoy the design characterised by robust limed oak over exposed concrete, while the “Studio” section presents upscale business and casual wear in a contrasting environment consisting of old wood furniture and displays made of smoked chrome.

Desire

One of the absolute highlights is the new sportswear world, which is the perfect stage for brands such as Handstich, Hetregó, Blauer USA, Canada Goose, and Napapijri. A good example for the new approach is the utilisation of backlit images to create different moods within the department. These images range from a wall stacked with firewood to a romantic flurry of snow. The large video wall in the circular staircase also draws from the emotional power of images.

The staircase itself, which boasts a bronze railing forged by master blacksmith Bergmeister in the 1950s and recently renovated by the very same company, is an architectural highlight in the heart of the building. 45 flat screens display impressions and looks without brand names.

After all, Hirmer sees itself as a brand in its own right. 227 fashion consultants offer excellent customer service and the store additionally houses an alteration shop, a customisation studio and a personal shopping area. And let’s not forget the stylish day bar with a stunning view of the famous “Frauenkirche”. Hirmer does everything to ensure that its customers visit the store even if they aren’t on the lookout for a new coat.

Managing director Frank Troch has been with the company for 25 years and was one of the driving forces behind the renovation process

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Hirmer GmbH & Co.KG Kaufingerstrasse 28, 80331 Munich/Germany www.hirmer.de Opening after renovation: October 2014 Owners: Hirmer family Managing director: Frank Troch Employees: 227 Sales area: 9,000 sqm Men’s brands: Armani Jeans, Baldessarini, Belstaff, Berwich, Blauer USA, Boss Black, Boss Orange, Brioni, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Canada Goose, Caruso, Cinque, Closed, Diesel, Fred Perry, Hackett, Handstich, Hetregró, Hugo, John Smedley, Kreis, Lacoste, Lardini, Lehndorf, Levis, Mabrun, Michael Kors, René Lezard, Tommy Hilfiger, Van Laack, Vilebrequin, Windsor, Woolrich, and others Accessories and shoe brands: Acqua di Parma, Church’s, Ermenegildo Zegna, Heinrich Dinkel, John Lobb, Ludwig Reiter, Magnanni, Paul Smith, Quarvif, Red Wing, Santoni, Sieger Design, Tateossian, and others

The circular staircase is an architectural INhighlight STORE 167 in its own right and a perfect symbol for the symbiosis of tradition and modernity

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Stucco ornaments and old murals are framed by a modern and warm interior.

Both opulent and minimalist – ZoÊ delightfully bridges the gap.

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Affair of the Heart Zoé/Hamburg. Mirela Stanoiu opened “Donna”, her first store for premium fashion, in Hannover in 1989. Exactly 25 years later to the day, she realised the lifetime dream of having a foothold in the Hamburg market by opening the multi-brand store Zoé.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: Zoé

Thanks to her exceptional flair for the right trends at the right time, Mirela Stanoiu can look back on a long history of success.

In a prime location in Hannover, her multi-brand stores “Donna” and “Emma”, as well as the “Shoehouse”, offer luxury labels such as Prada, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, and Céline alongside premium labels like MSGM, Kenzo, Red Valentino, Tagliatore, Joseph, Dondup, and Citizens of Humanity.

Mirela Stanoiu has been living in Germany for 35 years. She came to the country together with her parents to escape the Stalinist terror of the Ceausescu regime in Romania. Stanoiu started off as a model for Steilmann and Bernd Berger at the CPD at the tender age of 18, but it only took her one and a half years to open her first store. “My parents were self-employed photographers, so I was used to helping out in the studio. Sure, I was a bit cocky and overly motivated at the time. Instead of modelling, I wanted to sit at the table and jot down the things I was 100% sure I could sell. Bernd Berger then agreed to supply my first store on consignment”, Mirela Stanoiu explains. “I have not regretted my decision for a single day of the last 50 seasons.

My job doesn’t stress me out. I love being on the road for the company all week. There’s not a single trade show in Europe that we don’t visit. We visit the Berlin trade fairs Premium and Show

& Order and buy directly there; we handle the classifications at a later point in time. That’s where we find many of the little things that complement our product range, for example jewellery or accessories. Later, you often don’t have enough time to look for such items or to revisit the issue. Additionally, we commute between Milan and Paris a lot.”

She has opened and successfully managed no less than 14 store concepts in Hannover over the last 25 years. Her shops currently cooperate with approximately 280 suppliers.

finally came together. I want to be in a beautiful city. Here I am in a completely different world.

It’s hard to believe, but the girls in our shops in Hannover love coming up here to work. They enjoy coming to Hamburg to work here for the odd day and to maybe go out and explore the city in the evening. They return to Hannover highly motivated, mainly because they got to experience something completely different for a change. We are all having a lot of fun and joy here, because we love being in this city.”

Hamburg My Pearl

“With Zoé I am fulfilling another one of my dreams by finally opening a branch in Hamburg, which is a place that inspires me over and over again”, Mirela Stanoiu says. She created a store in a class of its own in an elaborately renovated old townhouse with an exceptionally beautiful facade (“Hohe Bleichen 23”). Mirela Stanoiu teamed up with the architecture team The Fount to create a unique 350 square metre presentation world spread out over two floors. Her private touch is tangible in every detail of the differentiated areas and the individual furniture arrangements.

“If I hadn’t pursued this dream now, it would probably never have happened at all. I was always on the lookout for a suitable store and we spontaneously went for it when it all

Extreme instead of basic - Mirela Stanoiu’s product range in Hamburg is significantly more fashionable

Zoé Multibrand Store Hohe Bleichen 23, 20354 Hamburg/Germany Opening: 11th of September 2014 Owner: Mirela Stanoiu Sales area: 350sqm Women’s brands: Céline, Citizens of Humanity, Dolce & Gabbana, Dondup, Joseph, Kenzo, Marni, MSGM, Odeeh, Prada, Tagliatore, Tara Jarmon, Valentine, Zoé

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Radiant Mix & Match Temple Brian & Barry/Milan. This store is spread out over twelve floors, stocks both women’s and men’s fashion, and offers a radiant culinary concept. The Zaccardi brothers have set a new benchmark in San Babila.

The fashion section, which occupies no less than four floors, houses 100 women’s fashion brands and 90 men’s fashion brands.

Text: Thesy Kness-Bastaroli.

Photos: Brian & Barry

This twelve-storey luxury temple in San Babila, which opened its doors to the public in March 2014, boasts 6,000 square metres of sales area and is not merely a Dorado for fashion and design enthusiasts. Lovers of exquisite culinary delights will be just as thrilled as beauty fans. After all, BBB partner Oscar Farinetti, who is enjoying global success with his restaurant chain Eataly, occupies two floors with high-end restaurants and grocery stores with “guaranteed freshness”. The third party involved is the cosmetics chain Sephora, which has settled down on the second floor with a broad range of cosmetic products, a beauty and wellness studio, and a nail salon. So who is the primary creative force behind

The modern department store is characterised by minimalist architecture

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this magnificent concept, you may ask? There are three such forces, namely Carlo, Paolo, and Roberto Zaccardi, who are the owners of men’s fashion retail chain Boggi, which operates approximately 100 stores at home and abroad. This luxury temple in Milan is now the new highlight of their multi-label store chain Brian & Barry, which was founded 30 years ago. The total turnover of BBB Group currently stands at approximately 300 million Euros.

Milan also on Radar of Harrods and Galeries Lafayette

As a competitor of the traditional Milanese shopping centre Rinascente located near the cathedral square and the only recently opened Excelsior

department store (operated by Gruppo Coin) in Galeria del Corso, Brian & Barry introduces a completely new philosophy combining luxury fashion and luxury food. BBB hopes to reap the benefits of this philosophy during the EXPO 2015 in Milan. “We are planning special EXPO initiatives for our foreign customers, especially for those from China, Russia, and Arabia”, says Carlo Zaccardi, the president of BBB. Two entire floors are reserved for culinary adventures. “We want to present a lifestyle that satisfies numerous desires of our customers simultaneously”, Zaccardi explains.

He points to recent findings of a study conducted in the US. On average, a customer spends 30 minutes in a department store.

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However, the visit is extended to slightly less than an hour and a half if the customer settles down in a restaurant or cafe. This principle has already been successfully implemented by some of Brian & Barry’s role models such as Saks (Bistro Sophie’s) and Macy’s (Stella 34 Trattoria), as well as Urban Outfitter’s “Taj Mahal”.

Milan is, however, also on the radar of other big players. Australian conglomerate Westfield is currently in the process of investing 1.3 billion Euros in the construction of a Galeries Lafayette in Segrate, where the group is planning to open a 175,000 square metre branch in 2017.

Furthermore, the former UniCredit headquarters located on Milan’s Piazza Cordusia will be sold to a financial investor from Qatar for 400 million Euros and is expected to house a Harrods outpost in the future.

trendy San Babila district can be described as minimalist. Even the terrace and restaurant on the twelfth floor stay true to this minimalism. Some foreign customers may deem the neon lights and white walls to be “cold”, but the Milanese simply adore minimalism. To that extent, the skyscraper from the 1950s satisfies the local taste.

Stimuli from Milan

The interior design of the Brian & Barry department store in the Radiant - the twelve-storey department store Brian & Barry enlivens the trendy San Babila district.

Gastronomy is an integral part of the concept; Eataly is both partner and customer magnet alike.

Brian & Barry San Babila/Via Durini 28, 20124 Milan/Italy Opening: March 2014 Owners: Carlo, Paolo, and Roberto Zaccardi Employees: 100 Sales area: 6,000 sqm Partners: Sephora (cosmetics), Eataly (gastronomy) Women’s brands: AG , Attic & Barn, Ba&sh, Finders Keepers, Halston Heritage, Inverni, Jacob Cohen, Jucca, Lardini, Maison Scotch, Moncler, Paris Texas, Smarteez, Tara Jarmon, True NY, Velvet, Woolrich, and others Men’s brands: Aglini, Barbour, Barena, Boglioli, Carhatt, Duvetica, Edwin, Faliero Sarti, Herno, Holubar, Incotex, K-Way, Mauro Grifoni, Monocrom, New Balance, Save the Duck, Scotch & Soda, Spiewak, Tagliatore, The Gigi, Woolrich, and others

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Details – storytelling is an integral part of the product presentation concept

Emerging from the Shadows Ludwig Beck/Munich.

There aren’t many large fashion houses that can benefit from such a predestined location as Ludwig Beck on the “Rathauseck” in Munich. Following an extensive remodelling, the company has freed up additional space to prove its strong commitment to menswear.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Ludwig Beck

The big day was in September.

Ludwig Beck opened its new menswear department in the basement and it is no less than 600 square metres larger than before. It is exclusive, modern, and inviting due to the use of light oak wood, marble, brass elements, and LED lighting.

“We believe in the specialised retail trade and in our location”, says chairman Christian Greiner.

“Now we have ensured that our already highly productive men’s department emerges from the shadows to further enhance this competence.”

All in One Place

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lion Euros. The basement was completely cored, disruptive columns removed, and the entire building services unit was moved to the roof. “We left no stone unturned”, Christian Greiner explains. “However, it was worth the effort to create new sales areas in such a valuable location.”

The product range has also been modified. A business section was added to the casual wear range; a move that paved the way for a new Hugo Boss shop-in-shop concept. A new contemporary fashion section does not only house new brands such as Pierre Balmain, Barbour International, and Car Shoe, but also Mauro Grifoni, Wolsey, raincoats by Stutterheim, and polo shirts by Morse Code. The product range

is completed with underwear by labels like Bread & Boxers, Wahts, and Gant, as well as swimwear by Orlebar Brown.

At first there was some resistance against finding new men’s brands for Ludwig Beck. The initial stance was that Ludwig Beck stands for women’s outerwear and that the men’s fashion segment in Munich is a highly competitive market with a number of strong competitors in the area. “We did not let up; our plan was well thought out”, says Greiner. “The result proved us right in the end.”

Never Stand Still

Ludwig Beck also refused to resist progress on the other six floors. The children’s and lingerie

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All in one place – Ludwig Beck has established an impressive new menswear department in the basement of the seven-storey building

departments were expanded, the trousers section renewed, and the former young fashion area (known as Apartment 4 today) has a new concept including brands such as WoodWood, MbyM, Gestuz, and Cheap Monday. Furthermore, the company started publishing an online magazine and blog in September last year. The subtitle “Store of the Senses” is to be taken literally. This does not only apply to Ludwig Beck’s renowned cosmetics department, but also to the music department, which is seen as the largest stationary source for classical music, jazz, world music, and audio books in Europe.

Christian Greiner likes looking at things from a different

perspective. This is occasionally proven by the shop window designs. For instance, the windows feature mobile robots from the automotive industry, which seemingly transform into art objects alongside the fashion items on display. “The people stop and are truly fascinated”, Greiner rejoices. “We simply take great pleasure in exciting our customers.”

Christian Greiner, chairman of Ludwig Beck: “Ludwig Beck is focused on long-term success and the remodelling is our investment in the future.”

Ludwig Beck Store of the Senses Marienplatz 11, 80331 Munich www.ludwigbeck.de Opening after remodelling: September 2014 Chairmen: Christian Greiner, Dieter Münch Employees: 32 in menswear department, 500 in total Sales area: 1,500 sqm in menswear department in basement Total sales area: 12,200 sqm Men’s brands: AG , Armani Collezioni, Pierre Balmain, Barbour International, Calvin Klein Jeans, C.P. Company, Closed, Daniele Fiesoli, Drykorn, Dstressed, Fire & Ice, Fred Perry, G-Lab, Grey von Schmaus, Hugo Boss, Hugo, IQ Berlin, Levi´s, Mauro Grifoni, Michael Kors, Morse Code, Nabholz, René Lezard, Stutterheim, The One Good, Wolsey Accessories, shoes, and underwear brands: Bikkembergs, Bread & Boxers, Carshoe, Filson, Gant, Grenson, Hugo Boss, Jockey, Johnstons of Elgin, Orlebar Brown, Sandqvist, Wahts, Wolsey Underwear, Zampiere

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For Personal Reasons SET & SEKT/Basel.

Corinne Grüter has never needed to face problems such as customer frequency decrease and online shop migration. She has just increased her sales area by a third, mainly because her customers simply love visiting her store. But how on earth does she do it?

Text: Dörte Welti.

Photos: Dörte Welti, Set & Sekt

Corinne Grüter only stocks items that she can envisage wearing herself.

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At first glance, the store located on a square in close proximity to Basel’s luxury mile “Freie Strasse” is no different to any other.

The shop displays its goods in a cool manner, sports some unusually designed presentation areas, plays soft music, and has a coffee machine on a little bar.

Everything is very neat, tidy, and open; the sales staff is extraordinarily friendly. But then one notices that there is nothing that sticks out negatively - everything is perfect. The customers feel comfortable. It is easy to strike up a conversation or one can simply focus on the coherently compiled collections. Perhaps you fancy a coffee? After all, the customers claim that this store offers the best coffee in town.

Corinne Grüter nods: “This is what I wanted to achieve. I want my customers to immerse themselves in a non-intrusive shopping world. I aim to offer a store that people like to revisit and explore - a place where you can exchange ideas and perhaps leave with a piece of the shop.”

The 32 year old businesswoman speaks figuratively, but of course it’s a bonus if the customers purchase something every time they visit. However, that is one thing she really doesn’t need to worry about.

Seeking Perfection

Corinne Grüter fine-tuned her concept for a very long time.

At first she had a point of sale with a bar in Basel’s market hall.

The rent was manageable for a fashion design graduate from FHNW Basel. She organised evening events to stand out from the crowd, hence the name Set & Sekt. Because everything she does has to be more than perfect, Corinne Grüter even secured a publican license. She soon realised how valuable it is to make time for her customers. She listened to her guests, recognised their needs, and decided to look for a new location after the market hall lost its appeal. Initially she had to share the ground floor of her new location with a CD store. When the music store went bankrupt, she took over that sales area too. However, she

sublet the space at first, because she didn’t have sufficient funds for such a large volume of goods at that time. Corinne Grüter wanted to make sure she doesn’t overstretch her business. After all, she doesn’t want to focus on the inexpensive brands, but on the exceptional ones with character and history. She wants brands that she can identify with and are a perfect fit for her customers, who increasingly frequent the store - mainly on Saturdays - to browse through the product range while sipping excellent coffee, listening to good music, and enjoying good company. “I attract many creative people like architects”, Grüter says happily.

“They need eye candy and pay attention to details such as music and colour schemes. Everything has to be perfect.”

Service is Essential

However, all the aforementioned aspects are not enough to secure success. One of the main pillars of Set & Sekt’s prosperity is service. “My staff is on par with the customers”, Corinne Grüter explains. “My employees don’t necessarily only have a background in sales, but have done a variety of things. They are authentic and are great at empathising with the customers.” The boss involves the crew in the business by urging her excellent team to contribute to marketing strategies. “I want quality”, Corinne Grüter makes clear. “A store stands and falls with the team in place.” And what about her, one may ask? “I need support”, she confesses, and acknowledges that she cannot work with people she can’t trust.

“The purchasing process is not only influenced by me, but also by my mother and partner. They assist me. They are not in the industry, which means they are my second unbiased eye.”

Never Stand Still

Everything came together perfectly in the end. This is why Set & Sekt has increased its sales area by a third by taking over the entire first floor. The light-flooded sales floor houses generously displayed goods and even provides enough space for a small office

that is also utilised as a warehouse. Corinne has a very selective purchasing strategy, which means that there are never a lot of products on display. The word that she now stocks Isabel Marant, a grounded shooting star of the fashion scene, spread quickly.

However, she stresses that the majority of her customers are not too focused on brands, but on fashion in general. The shoppers in Basel are a grateful bunch and they return because they are aware of how special Set & Sekt is. Corinne Grüter did ponder whether she should expand into Zurich, but not for long. She would have had to clone herself to be in two places at the same time. And nothing else would do for the perfectionist. So no, there’s no talk about expansion right now. Set & Sekt is and will remain in Basel only. Well, let’s wait and see…

Set & Sekt Rümelinsplatz 5, 4001 Basel www.setandsekt.com Opening: September 2007; Expansion: August 2014 Employees: 7 Sales area: 290sqm Women’s brands: Acne Studios, Alexander Wang, Christian Wijnants, Christophe Lemaire, Comme des Garçons, Cutler and Gross, Damir Doma, Dries van Noten, Dušan, Equipment, Escentric Molecules, Helmut Lang, Isabel Marant, Isaac Reina, Jil Sander Navy, Johnstons Cashmere, Joseph, Lu, Maison Martin Margiela, Sofie d’Hoore, Stutterheim, Susanne Kaufmann, Tsatsas, Vonoz Men’s brands: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Acne Studios, Comme des Garçons, Common Projects, Cutler an Gross, Dries van Noten, Escentric Molecules, Isaar Reina, Johnstons Cashmere, Maison Martin Margiela, Marni, Mismo, PB0110, Philippe Airaud, Stutterheim, Susanne Kaufmann, Tsatsas, Wooyoungmi Women’s brands shoes and accessories: Arielle de Pinto, Common Projects, Griesbach, Isaac Reina, Lu, Nicolas Kirkwood, PB0110, Philippe Airaud, Pierre Hardy, Quadrat, René Talmon L’Armée, Robert Clergerie, Stephanie Schneider, Vonoz Men’s brands shoes and accessories: Common Projects, Isaac Reina, PB0110, Philippe Airaud, Vonoz

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Architect Andreas Bründler from Buchner Bründler Architekten in Basel was responsible for the remodelling of the upper floor and the design of the ground floor.

The bar is a popular meeting point, especially on Saturdays…

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At Uzwei, finest materials such as marble clash with open ceilings, rough concrete plaster, and smooth wall surfaces

Shopping Experience with Future Uzwei/Hamburg. When Florian Braun, the owner of Unger am Neuen Wall, opened “Uzwei @ Kaisergalerie - the new store generation”, he created a new fashion hotspot in Hamburg.

The DNA of Unger, which is characterised by tradition and trend consciousness, luxury and exclusivity, and familiarity and service, is clearly tangible in this new store too. The editorial store concept aims to redefine the stationary retail industry.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: Uzwei

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Unger, one of Hamburg’s traditional fashion houses, wants to set a new benchmark with its Uzwei store concept, which is located in the new “Kaisergalerie” on the “Grosse Bleichen”. The latter is considered to be the most luxurious shopping street in Hamburg.

Uzwei is an innovative concept store providing a sophisticated shopping experience at the very highest level. The 1,000 square metre store promises to transpose the future of the stationary retail industry into the present.

“Uzwei is our answer to ever-changing consumer behaviour patterns. We aim to make shopping fun and entertaining again, while also offering a

charming environment with a casual atmosphere. I’ve been doing this job for ten years now; I tried to put everything that excited or inspired me in that time into this new concept”, says Florian Braun, who was not only the driving force behind the concept itself, but also designed the store.

In addition to the first Stella McCartney shop-in-shop in Germany, Uzwei in Hamburg exclusively operates a beauty box with selected products by Niche Beauty, as well as a corner for fashionable and high-end jewellery.

The fashion section is complemented by a deli with plenty of seating space in the entrance

area, where customers can enjoy coffee specialities, cold beverages, and various snacks. Directly opposite, one can find a floristry department offering freshly cut flowers, as well as tied bouquets and flower arrangements.

Store Straight From a Magazine

“The shelves and racks are newly decorated in line with the newest trends on a weekly basis; this is one of our hallmarks. Our customers want to know the background story of the newest it-bag and which details will define next season’s trends. We have assembled a very experienced visual merchandising team to implement a so-called

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Florian Braun’s Uzwei concept pays tribute to an upcoming new generation of consumers

er and ready-to-wear collections, Uzwei also specialises in high-end sportswear and active wear by brands such as Monreal, Adidas, and Nike. “Fitness has turned into a lifestyle and has been an important part of the fashion world for quite a while.

We stock a large variety of products including sport clothing, sneakers, and even yoga mats”, Braun reveals.

The product range is complemented by so-called “statement pieces” for children. “We offer a mother/child shopping experience. Young and old can find the coolest fashion highlights such as a romper by Kenzo, the Arctic Parka by Woolrich, and Air Max by Nike. The changing rooms are equipped with a ‘Sharing the Look’ system, which is connected to all major social media platforms. This enables customers to share their favourite items online, ask friends for their opinion, or to simply show everyone what they are trying on at that moment”, Braun says with great enthusiasm. So is this the future? Well, here the future is already reality.

A deli, a florist, and a beauty corner - Uzwei is the embodiment of the concept store philosophy.

Uzwei Grosse Bleichen 23-27, 20354 Hamburg/Germany www.uzwei.de Owner and managing director: Michael and Florian Braun Employees: 20 Sales area: 1,000sqm Women’s brands: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang, Chloé, Diane von Furstenberg, Dries van Noten, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Moschino, Nike, Proenza Schouler, Stella McCartney Accessories brands: Carolina Bucci, Delfina Delletrez, Eddie Borgo, Le Specs

storytelling strategy and regularly create topical sales areas. Just like editors and stylists, our sales personnel picks up these inputs”, Braun explains. This quasi editorial approach to visual merchandising certainly stands out from the mass of other concept stores. A two and a half minute YouTube video - titled “Uzwei We are ready for you” - offers the possibility to go on a virtual tour through the two floors of Uzwei.

In addition to numerous design-

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For the interior, Grasegger reinter足preted the concept of a cosy farmhouse parlour in a contemporary manner, by utilising lots of oak, a sitting bench, and a chimney.

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Bavarian Lifestyle Grasegger/GarmischPartenkirchen. Thomas and Franz Grasegger have made combining tradition and modernity the main focus for their fashion house. The brand portfolio is characterised by modern interpretations of traditional clothing (“Trachten”). After a renovation project that expanded the size of the store, it can now present its brands in a stylish and atmospheric setting.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Grasegger

This was once the location of the renowned Hotel Alpenhof, where Hollywood stars like Liz Taylor and Cary Grant spent their honeymoon. Since 1984, the same location has been occupied by Grasegger. However, the history of the family-owned textile company dates back to 1922, when it was a general store named Hartenstein. The company expanded its business in the late 1920s by adding traditional clothing (“Trachten”) to its product range. Thomas Grasegger and his son, Franz Grasegger, always remained true to the company’s roots. Their aim is to establish “Trachten” as a central element of everyday culture, in combination with Italian collections and brands such as Closed, Luis Trenker, Ben Sherman, and Fire + Ice. The “Trachten” fabrics department still is the heart of the business; Grasegger could tailor millions of different “Dirndl” dresses with its diverse selection of textiles.

traditions as stagnation. Thomas Grasegger first branched out into self-employment with his own “Trachten” manufactory.

He initially teamed up with a production company in Kempten, which he bought and relocated to the neighbouring town of Farchant in 2001, when the owner decided to retire. It was a very bold move. After all, Thomas Grasegger was a merchant, a greenhorn regarding production processes, and the success wasn’t calculable at the time. Today, Grasegger is the supplier of approximately 200 retailers in the Alpine region.

The reconstruction of Grasegger, completed in November, was an equally ambitious step forwards. The rear parking lot has been built over, which means that the building now borders directly on the spa gardens of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The total area has been increased by 600 square metres to 1,800 square metres.

“Trachten” as DNA

Franz Grasegger found most of his inspiration in hotels, gastronomy businesses, and mountain huts. As the Grasegger building resembles a regional farmhouse, the facade of the extension was designed to look like a barn.

The conceptual starting point for the interior design was a cosy farmhouse parlour: oak wall panels with inlaid reliefs and changing rooms with loden curtains are but a few distinctive style elements. The store is now the perfect setting for the product range, which has more depth than ever and has also been complemented by new collections such as Aigle, Lucky de Luca, Handstich, and Lena Hoscheck. The mix is truly unique, inspired by the Graseggers’ realisation that their uniqueness will ultimately secure the future of the company.

The father and son team never misinterpreted preserving

Cosy Farmhouse Parlour

The most renowned store in Garmisch-Partenkirchen has expanded its sales area to 1,800 square metres.

Franz Grasegger joined the family business when he was 25 years old. Today, at the age of 28, he is responsible for the menswear department and marketing in general.

Trachten& Modehaus Grasegger GmbH & Co KG Am Kurpark 8, 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen/ Germany www.grasegger.de Owners: Thomas Grasegger, Franz Grasegger Employees: 70 Sales area: 1,780 sqm Women’s brands: Aigle, Angie Miller, Anno Domini, Apres, Arido, Astrifa, Barbarino, Berwin & Wolff, Boos, Closed, Creation Bauer, Daddy’s Doughters, Didriksons, Die Rockmacherin, Fire & Ice, Fräulein Trentini, Gant, Gardeur, Georg Maier, Giesswein, Gloriette, Glücklich, Gössl, Hammerschmid, Handstich, Heidi, Heike Baedeker, Lena Hoscheck, Lodenfrey, Lucky de Luca, Luis Trenker, Meindl, Milestone, Moser, Mothwurf, R95th, Rossana Diva, Sabine Sommeregger, Schneiders, Sportalm, St. Moritz, Steffner, Steiner 1842, Susanne Spatt, Tostmann, Unnützer, Wallmann, Wenger Women’s accessories: Brasi & Brasi, Cute Stuff, Daniela Pi, Dirndl & Bua, Hubegger, Lembert, Linckx, Michaela Feyrsinger, Shirin Sehan, Töpfer Men’s brands: 2964 Garmisch, Agho, Apres, Arido, Ben Sherman, Casa Moda, Closed, Colours & Sons, Didriksons, Dockers, Gant, Gloriette, Glücklich, Gössl, Handstich, Hiltl, Lodenfrey, Lucky de Luca, Luis Trenker, Manufaktur Grasegger, Meindl, Montecore, Montino, Phil Petter, Pierre Cardin, R95th, Schneiders, Tintoria Mattei Men’s accessories: Dante, Dirndl & Bua, Laco, Lembert, Töpfer, Post & Co, Sieger, Steffner, Luise Steiner, Stetson, Zapf, Zollner

style in progress 115

180 IN STORE

The streets are full of life – the side streets of “Kurfürstendamm” are defined by their charm.

Hans Weber is a real multi-talent and decided to name his new store after himself

115 style in progress

IN STORE 181

The Ego Hans/Berlin. Hans Weber was the chief executive and buyer for Berlin-based cult store City Jeans for 19 years, and most recently acted as store manager and buyer for the F95 Store on the grounds of the premium trade show complex in “Luckenwalder Strasse”. After the latter closed down, the next logical step for Hans Weber was to start his very own project.

He named his store after himself: Hans.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: Jennifer Fey

Hans Weber’s new store in “Meinekestrasse”, in close proximity of the Apple store on Berlin’s famous “Kurfürstendamm”, is clean and simple. The interior is dominated by a wooden floor, clothes racks made of metal, white walls, and a large denim wall at the back. The presentation tables are vintage French warehouse shelves from the 1930s. A table and a few chairs in front of the shop, as well as a large courtyard, invite customers to linger.

The main focus of the product range is on jeans. In addition, the store stocks high-end dresses from selected ready-to-wear collections. “I like the LA style - it’s sporty and casual. I enjoy selling honest products that I can recommend to my customers without qualms”, the fashion specialist from Hamburg explains.

His label for the entry-level price range is Set, while Elisabetta Franchi completes the brand portfolio at the other end of the price scale. In addition, the store also stocks rain jackets by Stutterheim, shirts by Lauren Moshi, pullovers by Miss Goodlife, sweaters by Camouflage, blouses

by Equipment, dresses by Nikkie, leather jackets by Enso Art, lamb fur vests by Sly, and scarves

by Sara Martignoni.

When it comes to menswear, Weber places his trust in the extraordinary style of Preach.

He plans to add this brand to his women’s fashion section next season, as well as Pierre Balmain as a new highlight.

Beautiful Items from around the Globe

The fashion collections are complemented by items such as handmade porcelain from Australia and vodka from Berlin.

The store also stocks furniture made by the Düsseldorf-based company Bison Authentic, which exclusively uses high-end natural materials. “I have many of the accessories I sell in my own home and I enjoy offering these products to my customers in the store. For instance, I recently brought home new candles. Today, the customers

Elegant industrial look - the interior is characterised by French presentation tables, simple wooden flooring, clean metal racks, and a large denim wall

are very well informed thanks to the Internet and their own travels. They often tell me about products or brands that they discovered and that might fit nicely into my concept”, the bubbly 46 year old denim specialist explains.

The results after the first few months are very encouraging.

“Of course we still have room for improvement, but we have already had to plug a few gaps and reorder products that were sold out”, Weber reveals. His customers are clearly excited by his new concept and gladly recommend the store to others. “I have my customers in mind every time I order a new product; I base my purchasing decisions on who an item could fit and who could enjoy buying it. Of course I also consider my fashion lines and budgets during the buying process, but that doesn’t mean I disregard my gut feeling”, the man who chose Berlin as his new home explains.

Hans Meinekestrasse 25, 10719 Berlin/Germany Opening: August 2014 Owner: Hans Weber Sales area: 120sqm Women’s brands: Arma, By Malene, Birger, Camouflage, Elisabetta Franchi, Elizabeth & James, Enso Art, Equipment, Genetic, J Brand, Koral, Lauren Moshi, Les Éclaires, Miss Goodlife, Mother, Nikkie, Pierre Balmain, Please, Sara Martignoni, Set, Sly, True Religion Brand Jeans Men’s brands: Citizens of Humanity, Imperial, Preach, Stutterheim Accessories brands: By Boe

style in progress 115

Three Style Experts and One Design Icon AP&CO/Zurich. It’s all a matter of style. Reto Caprez, Nico Pesko, and Jeroen van Rooijen have been aware of this for a very long time. The three Swiss style experts decided to combine their knowhow and created a “men’s world for lovers of all things beautiful”.

Text: Dörte Welti.

Photos: Lorenz Richard

115 style in progress

It’s time to turn words into action! It’s time for made-to-measure specialist Reto Caprez, sports and casual wear specialist Nico Pesko, and journalist/style expert Jeroen van Rooijen to prove that their claim is right on the money. AP&CO - which stands for Alferano, Pesko & Compagnon - does not merely present products for the style conscious man, it literally curates the items.

The shop is not manned by a general manager, but by a host.

The man in question is Donatus Grütter, an experienced PR and media expert. The customers are guests and are treated accordingly; they are gently guided through what can be best described as a style temple with an orchestrated mixture of wall shelves and laid out goods.

The system is well thought out: basic goods are displayed in the

front sections, while those items needing explanation or personal interaction are displayed the further back the customers venture. There is a story behind every brand that explains how the owners discovered the label, why it was stocked, and what it represents. Finally one arrives in the “Tailor-made Corner” right at the back, which houses suits and shirts by Alferano. Alferano is the soon-to-be 25 year old private brand of Reto Caprez.

It currently employs twelve “Flying Tailors”, which visit and measure highly demanding customers. AP&CO is not Reto Caprez’s first stationary store project; he already has experience with shop-in-shop concepts at Globus Men and Jelmoli. His aim is to add a “sartorial touch” to the product range: “I define style as a set of norms and values

that finds its expression in the clothing, but also characterises attitude in general.”

For Hunters and Gatherers

The laid out items that complement the rack products include Nico Pesko’s knitwear of the finest quality. His pullovers and jackets are classic, but have a very special touch of their own. The man from Lenzerheide brings his retail expertise to the table.

His motto is: “Dealing with the issue of style is a sign of respect towards fellow human beings. It is important to me how I dress, articulate, and behave.”

Between a mushroom picking set and limited fragrances one can also find self-sewn ties. The ties are made by Jeroen van Rooijen and his wife Nina, a fashion designer who is a part-time host at AP&CO. The well-known

A designer’s touch - The floating wooden surface is backed up by a substructure.

With Steel and an Expert’s Eye

The three style gurus - Reto Caprez, Jeroen van Rooijen, and Nico Pesko (from left to right).

writer and trained fashion designer known as “JvR” carefully prepared his fan base for the fact that he plans to sew and sell ties made of Japanese materials by regularly posting the slogan “Friday is Tieday” on exactly that day of the week. These ties are part of van Rooijen’s claim regarding the zeitgeist and edginess of the product range.

He has been quizzed about style issues for years in magazines, on the radio, and on TV. Now he only has one answer: AP&CO. “Style is non-verbal communication”, van Rooijen argues. “We live in a shrinking world and it is a sign of respect and maturity to present yourself to your fellow human beings as a neatly and pleasantly packaged individual.”

Design icon Alfredo Häberli, who is a long-standing Alferano customer, created the colour scheme of the former gallery in Zurich and also designed the entire furnishing of the store.

The green and blue of the colour scheme could clash, but it doesn’t due to the openness and light-flooded interior. Anyone who doesn’t feel the style vibe in the midst of all these items that are necessities we didn’t even know about before is certainly beyond rescue. However, even those will at least enjoy the coffee from the Italian “Rocket” and learn a vital lesson: masculine clothing culture needs time. It takes time to live, learn, and purchase.

AP&CO Talstrasse 58, 8001 Zurich www.ap-co.ch Opening: September 2014 Owners: Reto Caprez, Nico Pesko, Jeroen van Rooijen Employees: 4 Sales area: 150sqm Brands: Alferano, Alpi Cashmere, Aspesi, Baracuta, Berwich, Dualism by Descente, GMS-75, Golden Fleece, Haikure, Hancock Scotland, Harris Wharf, Jacob Cohen, James Perse, John Smedley, Merz beim Schwanen, Nico Pesko, Rick Tailor, Roberto Collina, RVR by Lardini, S.N.S., Stutterheim, Woolrich Shoes and accessories brands: Friday is Tieday, Ganzo Accessoires, Grenson, Luca Roda, Miansai, Paraboot, Porter Japan, Sandqvist, Stetson, Zeitzone, VOR, Weber Hodel Feder Lifestyle brands: Otter Germany, Stählemühle, Stilgraf, various books and magazines

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184 editor'S Letter /// about us

Open Sundays… Now!

I

n 1985, the then governor of Salzburg found himself in front of the constitutional court facing a so-called “minister indictment” and was actually found guilty. Although it was a symbolic verdict without any personal or political consequences, it was a unique, previously unimaginable result. The court case was triggered by a resolution Wilfried Haslauer had passed a year earlier, allowing retailers in Salzburg to open their stores on the 8th of December, the Christian holiday celebrating the Virgin Mary’s immaculate conception. Especially the regions of Salzburg bordering on Germany experienced a more than painful loss of purchasing power on that particular day. For the retail industry the holiday opening, which is accepted Austria-wide without any shadow of a doubt today, was an instant economic success. However, trade unions and church representatives reacted with utter outrage, which is what ultimately led to Haslauer’s spectacular trial.

Without question, there are very good reasons for rejecting a liberalisation of opening hours, especially with regards to opening on Sundays and public holidays.

The working hours in the retail industry are not particularly attractive anyway, and often are a major hurdle when looking for really qualified personnel.

Open Sundays, at first glance, certainly are likely to affect the reconciliation of work and family negatively. Furthermore, a certain deceleration of life is undoubt115 style in progress

edly important for all of us.

Those are very good reasons.

Nevertheless, I believe that opening stores on Sundays is inevitable and there are no alternatives. When markets were still predominantly domestic, the shop opening hours, whether one might have considered them sensible or absurd, applied to ALL market participants. Apart from special regional rulings as described above, it was primarily a question of principle. This fundamental fairness may have been selectively eroded over the years, but its existential necessity was not questioned for a long time.

Although some, especially those in regions dominated by tourism, enviously eyed the many affluent holidaymakers willing to spend money, who were allowed to order an apple strudel or schnitzel, but were not permitted to try on a pair of shoes or a jacket.

Today, the stationary retail industry is facing a competitor who can’t even spell the term “shop opening legislation”, mainly because it doesn’t affect this particular market participant at all. Online shops are always open, 24 hours a day and 365 days a year. That is - and for once there really is no second opinion - an enormous competitive advantage, especially in all business areas that are no longer dominated by demand, but by spontaneous impulse purchases. A consumer who is cheerfully standing in front of an inspiring shop window, but then cannot give in to a spontaneous impulse because the

doors are locked, is usually a lost customer. It’s unlikely he’ll come back on Monday. He usually can’t return and doesn’t have to. After all, there is an alternative.

In autumn last year, the Viennese mayor carefully spoke out in favour of open Sundays in so-called “tourism zones”. His statement is pretty sensational for a town that has been more or less absolutely ruled by social democrats since the Bronze Age. Maybe this is a start. My demand is far more radical. I want a general release of store opening hours on conditions that are attractive for employees and, at the same time, acceptable for companies. That is possible. However, it requires a willingness to break new ground, for example concerning working hour models. In this respect, the employers are called upon just as much as the trade unions. Above all, the politicians need to step up. Pardon my French, but damn it! They need to finally realise that this question affects a lot more than the daily turnover of a few - pardon my French again - junk retailers. The higher-ranking issue is the appeal, attraction, and therefore the future of our cities.

Bearing this in mind, as well as competitive equality and ability, open Sundays simply HAVE TO be allowed.

Yours, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Isabel Faiss Mody Al Khufash Silke Bender Petrina Engelke Thesy Kness-Bastaroli Ina Köhler Nicoletta Schaper Kay Alexander Plonka Dörte Welti Katharina Wohlfahrt Photographers/Illustrators Harling & Darsell Claudia Meitert Daniel Roche Peter Schaffrath Timmo Schreiber Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach

Next issue 2 February 2015

Sylvia from www.hug-you.com for IQ fashion GmbH Berlin • www.iqplusberlin.com

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