Style in Progress 1.11 by UCM Verlag

WINTER 11/12

# 1.2011

Just the Right Moment. Every Fast Seller Eventually Becomes a Slow Seller /// Made in HERE. The Slow Revolution /// Japan. The Motor for Trends and the Rich Heritage of the Osaka Five /// True Friends. Jackets As Reliable Money Makers ///

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Diego Della Valle

'It's Important to Maintain Quality.'

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Tommy Hilfiger

ANNIVERSARY SALES BOOST

Legends sneakers were designed by 12 representatives from the music, media and design sectors.

Lacoste

CROCODILE ART

Lacoste has launched a new design project with the Legends series. Created together with trend-setting representatives from the music, media and design sectors as well as retailers, Lacoste sneakers are being offered in twelve different designs. Starting 12 December 2010, these exclusive shoes are now available at German and Austrian retailers. The collection can be found at Solebox in Berlin, Kickz in Munich or the new Phoenix store in Graz. Last year the French label supported an interesting art project in co-operation with the Musée de l’Elysée in Lausanne, Switzerland. The Lacoste Elysée prize, Tomorrow's Photographers Today, was awarded at the reGeneration exhibition. 25-year-old Di Liu from China was the clear winner last December. His intelligent, humorous work can be viewed on the homepage. www.lacoste.com

To mark its 25th year in business, the Tommy Hilfiger brand has presented its new owner with the best gift of all. The Phillips-Van-Heusen Corporation (PVH) of New York City announced sales of 2.46 billion euros for the first nine months of the 2010/11 fiscal year, representing an increase of 81.5 per cent. Of that amount, 936,733,000 million euros was attributable to the brand, which was taken over by the corporation in May of 2010. This far exceeded expectations, particularly in the European and North American regions. Combined with rising revenues at Calvin Klein, PVH has revised its forecast for the fiscal year and now expects group earnings of 3.48 billion euros. www.hilfiger.com A factor in Phillips-Van-Heusen's high turnover was the takeover by Tommy Hilfiger.

The recently opened Drykorn Shop in the Neue Schönhauser Strasse is the third in Berlin.

Drykorn

MENSWEAR STORE IN BERLIN

www.marc-o-polo.com

At the end of 2010, another 70 square-metre store was added to the two existing Drykorn stores in Berlin: at the new store, casualwear and ready-made clothing will be displayed separately. All three locations are located on Berlin's Neue Schönhauser Strasse. The stores’ design has also undergone an optical relaunch. They are operated jointly by Karin Warburg and Dirk Jacoby in co-operation with Berliner Respectmen GmbH. To add to its physical presence, Drykorn also launched its own online shop in September 2010. For autumn/winter 2011/12 the label will focus on the '70s lifestyle, with looks ranging between folk and Bohemian. Drykorn is implementing these looks with its usual progressive style of precise cuts, high-quality materials and elaborate details. www.drykorn.com

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shop tommy.com

15 born Different! since 1996 www.different-fashion.com

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Welcome to these lines... "Provenance" or the power of origins – That's the special focus of the first issue of style in progress in 2011. While exploring reasons and arguments in Made in Here (see page 070), we've collected the opinions of a wide range of interesting people. First and foremost, in the Longview (see page 062) Diego Della Valle talks about his love for Italian handcrafted goods – a devotion that extends far beyond his own brands: He also vehemently opposes the Italian government's belt-tightening in the cultural arena – and has shown himself to be a generous defender of Italian heritage. He's even putting up 25 million euros to preserve the mother of all arenas, the Colosseum in Rome. In an interview with Thesy Kness-Bastaroli, Della Valle said: "Every day we face the challenge of measuring up to the competition internationally. In view of this, it's not only our duty but also an honour to preserve Italy's cultural heritage. This will allow us to enhance the image and credibility of our country. We shall fully finance the restoration of the Colosseum." Inspiring! Indeed, the successful Italian entrepreneur's involvement helps to maintain values that are cherished by many fashion players who spoke with style in progress – values with an impact that extends far beyond their individual commercial activities. Well-established brands like Canada Goose remain committed to producing locally, despite the vagaries and uncertainties this entails, while new and exciting labels (Selected, see page 118) are steadfastly determined to manufacture their products close to home, particularly because they (still) are small. There are countless advocates for local production in this issue: In a highly personal interview (see page 078), Markus Meindl talks about the innovations created by his specialists in the Bavarian town of

style in progress

Cover Photo: Sakis Lalas

Kirchanschöring. Fashion writer Petra Engelke delves into the advantages of local production centres for New York's garment district (see page 076), and Ina Köhler spoke with the Sieger brothers, whose sassy ready-to-wear line has given a surprisingly fresh appeal to "made in Germany" (see page 104).

t's no secret that style in progress is a big fan of independent fashion retailers. We were positively overjoyed when our team was able to track down stores that are so adept at conveying the philosophies of their suppliers – at locations as far-flung as New York, Berlin, San Francisco, Düsseldorf … and Obertauern (Look & Feel, see page 168). And, last but not least, we are treated to a wealth of inspiring images captured by our styling and photo teams on assignment in Osaka, Paris, Berlin and Vienna (Fashion & Inspiration, see page 126). Enjoy reading and gazing, Your style in progress Team

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style in progress meets Diego Della Valle, founder of the successful Tod's Group.

104 The Sieger brothers

go for extravagance and colourful design in their luxurious creations.

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The Longview 062 “It's Important to Maintain Quality” style in progress talks to Diego Della Valle

Concept 070 Made in Here Conscientious consumption is about more than just an organic cotton shirt 076 In the Middle of Manhattan Made in Here: The Garment District 078 Tradition is Not an End in Itself Made in Here: Meindl 080 Respect your Roots Made in Here: Canada Goose 081 Many Years Young Made in Here: Aglini 082 The Power of Provenance Made in Here: new transparency 088 Focusing on "Made in Italy" Ittierre: Takeover ensures calm after the storm style in progress

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126

Made in Here: Markus Meindl talks about consistent production flow and his unconditional quality standards.

One of five: Evisu founder Hidehoko Yamane is one of Osaka's jeans rebels who will go down in denim history.

Osaka

City Special

090 Not a Question of Where, but How Cashmere: the value of white gold 094 Ensuring Brisk Sales in the Future... Will the boom in jacket sales continue? 100 International Revival Barbour: bringing a young and urban British lifestyle 102 From the Mountains Dolomite: from K2 into the fashion world 103 Balance between Price and Performance is necessary In a talk with add owner Maurizio Cittone 104 Winning Style, Charm and Colour Sieger: luxury design from porcelain to suits 106 Retail is Golden: Profitable Products from Start to Finish Paschbeck Fummel + Kram is making the world a better place by way of India

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108

If you reduce your prices too early, your expenses will eat up your profits. This is the explosive topic of our first discussion with experts in 2011.

Opinion 108 Every Fast Seller Eventually Becomes a Slow Seller Roundtable discussion on write-offs and selling seasons

Fashion&Inspiration 126 City Special: Osaka Where the jeans boom started 138 Osaka Streetstyle Fashion Report 146 Paris Streetstyle Fashion Report 154 What's Comfortable Fashion Report 160 Next Generation of Ladies und Gentlemen Fashion Report

Look&Feel

160 Fashion

171 Real Gem Max Laurenz, Wiener Neustadt

Report

172 Paradise for Shopping Couples Jaspers, D端sseldorf 174 A Family Business with Modern Zeitgeist By Fink's Woman, Innsbruck 176 Point Blank: Refined American Style Revolver, San Francisco 178 Paper Fashion Bookmarc, New York 179 One Small Step for De La Reh, One Giant Leap for Berlin De La Reh, Berlin 180 Get Your Glad Rags Out! Voo, Berlin

Next Generation of Ladies and Gentlemen

WHAT'S COMFORTABLE

154 Fashion Report

182 Pure Shopping Pleasure at 1.750 Metres Freudenhaus, Obertauern

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STANDARDS 008 Editorial 020 Shortcuts 118 Selected 168 Retailnews 184 Editor's Letter 184 About Us

172 New name, new location: Jaspers in D端sseldorf.

style in progress

Streetstyle Paris: The city of love once again shows its amour for fashion.

Stephen Galloway | Ada Kokosar The : 10 people 10 cities at closed.com

PREMIUM

19 – 21 JanUaRy 2011

Hall 7 - C05

Claudio Cutuli, Dadcrown Belts, Dirtee Hollywood, Dolfi, George Gina & Lucy, Giorgio Brato, Gwynedds, Hetreg贸, Liebig, Original Vintage Style, Swiss Criss, Szen, The Same Guy, Tkees, Wildinger & Sons, WLG

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Tommy Hilfiger

ANNIVERSARY SALES BOOST

Legends sneakers were designed by 12 representatives from the music, media and design sectors.

Lacoste

CROCODILE ART

The recently opened Drykorn Shop in the Neue Schönhauser Strasse is the third in Berlin.

Drykorn

MENSWEAR STORE IN BERLIN

style in progress

SHORTCUTS.

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The autumn/winter collection from Peuterey is displaying intense colours.

Peuterey

CRAZY FOR COLOUR

In the autumn/winter 2011/2012 collection of the Peuterey label from the Italian Geospirit Group, there are brand-new men's models in new cuts with a healthy splash of colour. For example, there's a robust canvas and cotton parka lined with goose down and a hood trimmed with Murmansky fur. "The inspiration for the bright colours and the material comes from the Anglo-Saxon working world," says Riccardo Coppola, Designer-in-Chief at Peuterey. "We aimed to create a jacket that could become an icon in the world of sportswear." In the spring/summer 2011 collection, Peuterey also expanded the brand portfolio to include men's and women's leather jackets for the first time, all in earthy shades such as light brown, beige, light blue and classic black and with the fashionable Peuterey style. www.peuterey.it

ADenim

CHINOS FOR REAL DENIM FANS

The first wool jeans from Emu are extremely sturdy and very comfortable.

Emu

WOOL JEANS

In addition to new colour choices in their sheepskin boots, the Australian label Emu is introducing another innovation to the market for the autumn/winter 2011 season: Valla Beach jeans made from wool denim. The company worked with experts from the denim industry for a year to develop the trousers, made from light woven Marino wool. Product Manager Aileen Connors especially praises the high durability and comfort of the first jeans to contain wool. The novel Emu product will first appear on store shelves in July 2011. www.emuaustralia.com

Up to now, the ADenim collection, founded two years ago, has strictly specialised in denim. This is changing in the current season as ADenim presents two new chino trouser styles in straight and slim fit with piped pockets. "Chinos and denim belong together," says Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of Alberto GmbH& Co.KG. "As new fashion basics, chinos don't compete with jeans. On the contrary, they offer die-hard denim fans a little change of pace." The two models are available in authentic natural tones of sand, navy, camel and khaki. The jeans and chinos retail between 119 and 159 euros. ADenim was founded as a special line by the Mönchengladbach-based trousers specialist Alberto. It's currently supplied to 200 customers. "We place ADenim in real shops – those that value a high-quality and well-coordinated sales mix as well as good service – rather than in department stores," he adds. www.alberto-pants.com

Chinos are a new feature of the product program from ADenim, the special jeans collection from Alberto.

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Jades

PRIMA MADONNA

The Düsseldorf fashion hotspot Jades has something special up its sleeve to celebrate its 10th anniversary: The Goebel porcelain factory in Rödental has manufactured a Madonna from the finest bone china, which was then painted from sketches by Jades co-owner Evelyn Hammerström's design team. Both the manufacture and painting of the sculpture were carried out by hand. Only 10 of these iconic statues were produced and can currently be admired and purchased in the Düsseldorf shop (retailing at about 2010 euros each). Goebel, which has existed since 1871 and was already producing statues of the Virgin Mary back in the 1920s, sees this as the modern interpretation of a longstanding tradition. www.jades24.com

The Madonna in a cape covered with 166 individually handcrafted roses.

TheKey.to Conspiracy & GreenShowroom

ECO-FASHION WITH STYLE

Parallel to the Berlin Fashion Week, two events are being held again this year that are dedicated to sustainable fashion and green lifestyle. TheKey.to Conspiracy is taking place from 20 to 22 January 2011 in Berlin's Columbiahalle. This is the fourth year of one of the most well-known trade fairs for sustainable fashion. In addition to fashion shows, there will be expert workshops and discussion rounds. The event was initiated by architect Gereon Pilz van der Grinten, designer Rostislav Komitov and humanist The Berlin Green Frans Prins. Events offer chic, but The second event, GreenShowroom, eco-correct fashion. is being held from 19 to 21 January 2011 and is presenting international and luxury eco products from the fields of fashion, accessories, cosmetics and lifestyle. The event organisers Jana Keller and Magdalena Schaffrin are pleased to be able to exclusively present GreenShowroom in Berlin as a result of the huge demand. Up until now the event venue alternated between the German and the French capital. The event is set in the wonderful rooms of Hotel Adlon. According to Keller, this is an appropriate choice because: "Only if the look and the quality are right will customers be prepared to spend a bit more money on the environmental protection aspect." www.thekey.to, www.green-showroom.net

März

NINETIETH ANNIVERSARY

From autumn 2012 restaurant, retail plus beauty and wellness customers can have it all at the 7,000 square metre area over the roofs of Berlin.

Bikini Berlin

REVITALISATION

Belgian artist and architect Arne Quinze and Bayrische Hausbau GmbH & Co.KG are modernising the listed 90,000 square metre, '50s-era Bikini Berlin complex in Berlin's City West district. The most spectacular renovation of the complex between Europacenter and the Zoo railway station will be the publicly accessible 7,000 square metre rooftop, which opens on to the Berlin Zoo. The space will be used for retail shops, upmarket restaurants, beauty, wellness,health and living as well as electronics. In addition there is a planned revival of the adjoining Zoo Palast cinema, which also belongs to Bayrischen Hausbau GmbH & Co.KG. The cinema, which was built in 1952 by Cinemaxx founder Hans-Joachim Flebbe, will be renovated and technically updated. Bikini Berlin will open in autumn 2012. www.bikiniberlin.com

style in progress

Last year the März brand was able to look back on its proud 90-year history in the fashion business. To celebrate its 90th anniversary and to launch the 2010/2011 autumn/winter season, März is presenting its new website with its "unconventional by tradition" concept. Under the direction of Nuremburg-based nuts communications GmbH, a total of 30 POS events will take place during the anniversary year, including an anniversary package of goods for retail partners. The onetime family-owned business was founded in 1920 by Wolfgang and Thea März. Under Managing Director Stephan Gittel, März München AG now employs more than 400 people in Munich and Hungary, and in 2009 earned a sales volume of 23.6 million euros. www.maerz-muenchen.de

"Traditionally unconventional:" That's the Munich label März, which celebrated its 90th anniversary last year.

True Religion Brand Jeans Germany GmbH

Plange Mühle 6 | Weizenmühlenstraße 21 | 40221 Düsseldorf | pr@unifafashion.com | telefon +49(0)211.17149 92 43

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The first fashion bar in Germany is created by designer Michael Michalsky for the Marriott Hotel on Potsdamer Platz.

Cinque

STORES AND GAMES

Cinque is paving the way for the future with store openings and activities for the public. One example here is the flagship store in Düsseldorf, where Cinque has presented its portfolio of labels on an ample 330 square metres of floor space. This was followed by the opening of the 5th Cinque store in Braunschweig in November. The Mönchengladbach-based company is also moving full speed ahead in terms of sports. The Hamburger SV football team presented menswear for the current autumn/ winter photo shoot. "Players and coaches seemed comfortable in their new outfits and were very convincing in their roles as models," states Uwe Kauert from Cinque Uomo. Through its Düsseldorf flagship store, Cinque is the business outfitter of Fortuna Düsseldorf for the 2010-2011 Bundesliga season. In addition, women aren't taking a back seat: The Cinque Favorita 2011 edition will be introduced to retailers in spring/summer 2011, and a limited edition can be reordered until the Women's World Cup in June. www.cinque.de

Michael Michalsky

FIRST FASHION BAR

Berlin fashion designer Michael Michalsky is working with the Marriott Hotel on Potsdamer Platz to design the hotel's bar. As the first fashion bar in Germany, it's meant to become a highlight of the fashion scene. From the furnishings and the lighting design down to the napkins, the entire interior will come from the drawing board of Michalsky, whose Michalsky designLab Agency already works for companies such as Sony, WWF, Afri Cola and Kappa. Plans call for the fashion bar to open early this year during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. www.marriott.de

Igedo Company

COMPANY'S SPOKESMAN LEAVES

Together with the opening of its flagship store in Düsseldorf last September, Cinque is outfitting the Fortuna Düsseldorf football team.

Thomas Kötter left the Düsseldorf-based Igedo Company in mid-December 2010. The 33-year-old will go on to head corporate communications at the Düsseldorf airport. Kötter has worked for the past ten years at the company Messe Düsseldorf, as well as the last four and a half at the Igedo Company. He had first joined the management of Igedo in August 2010, where he was responsible for marketing, press, sponsoring and events as the Director of Marketing & Communications. Kötter belonged to the team under Managing Partner Philipp Kronen and Executive Fashion Director Mirjam Dietz. Kötter's successor has yet to be named. www.igedo.com

Marc O'Polo

GREEN BASIS

For years now, eco-friendly materials like organic cotton, organic wool and organic linen have been both a focus and an integral part of collections from Marc O'Polo. Starting in the summer 2011 season, the bulk of core products for men will now be produced only from 100 per cent organically grown cotton. This change will affect classics and topsellers like round-neck, V-neck and zipneck pullovers, cardigans and pique polo shirts. Despite the shift to sustainable production of the basic fabrics, current prices will not be increased. www.marc-o-polo.com

style in progress

From next summer on the core products of the men's collection will be made mostly of bio-cotton.

DRYKORN FOR BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE DRYKORN.COM

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Stone Island

FROST PROTECTION

Since December 2009, Stone Island has presented itself as a hospitable cooperation partner of the Bayerischer Hof hotel in Munich. The panorama terrace, which has been converted into an outdoor ice bar these past five winters, has been given a brand-new look this season with the motto Polar Bar. A lounge area was added to the restaurant area and this is where the Italian sportswear label can show its know-how in the use of functional materials. Covers of thermo-active fabrics enable guests to relax and be comfortable outside without freezing. In addition, Stone Island can present its models in the bar's container with a display window especially for this purpose. www.stoneisland.com

UCM Verlag

A NOTE TO OUR READERS

Yes, in the year 2011, we still believe in paper â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and we're not about to opt for a purely online existence. Everyone at UCM Verlag wholeheartedly agrees that there's something magical about a print magazine. Nevertheless, we're proud to announce the long-overdue modernisation of our website (www.ucm-verlag.at). Since this is the year when UCM Verlag launches an iPad app for the magazines style in progress and x-ray, it's about time to reveal our new online image to all visitors. Particularly attentive readers of the website may notice that the logo and company name of our publishing house have also changed. What else is new? Go on and look. www.ucm-verlag.at

This winter the ice bar at the Hotel Bayerischer Hof in Munich glistens with the fashion designs from Stone Island.

EuroShop 2011

SUSTAINOVATION

Iconix

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR IN EUROPE

Simon Brown is the new Managing Director of Iconix Europe in London. Since autumn 2010 he has been in charge of establishing the subsidiary, The new Iconix Iconix Brand Group, in the European Managing Director for Europe is market. Brown is behind such projects Simon Brown. as the Europe-wide marketing of Madonna's Material Girl fashion collection, which was launched on the American market in summer 2010, as well as the marketing of labels such as Badgley Mischka, Candie's, Danskin, Joe Boxer, London Frog, Mudd and Rampage. The 45-year-old's career has included working as Brand Director of the British rugby brand, Canterbury, which is owned by JD Sports Fashion, and he has also held positions with Woolworth, Umbro, Reebok and Pentland. www.iconixbrand.com

The world's leading trade fair for the retail trade and its partners is focusing on sustainable product development in 2011. Sustainability is the buzzword on everybody's lips, but due to the complexity of this topic, it's not really being put into practice. The special exhibition called Sustainovation aims to change this. It plans to use successful company examples to show visitors the enormous potential of eco-balancing and sustainable green material optimisation. The trade fair is being held in DĂźsseldorf from 26 February to 2 March 2011. Around 1,800 exhibitors from 50 countries and more than 100,000 industry visitors from all five continents are expected to attend. www.euroshop.de

This year the EuroShop is dedicating itself more than ever to sustainable product development.

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New Balance Lifestyle

A GOOD PLAN

Italy sets an example: In fashion nation number 1, New Balance ranks among the hottest brands – thanks to selective distribution of the New Balance Lifestyle range in fashion stores. Chris Sports Europe GmbH, distributor of the New Balance and PF Flyers brands, is also applying a similar strategy in Austria: In addition to the successful distribution of the Performance range by the Kurt Schild/Salzburg agency, room with a view was put in charge of the Lifestyle range. The brand PF Flyers Heritage, which is part of the New Balance Group, is now also represented in the portfolio of the Salzburg-based distribution agency. Thomas Stumpp, CEO of Chris Sports Europe: "Thanks to the clear separation of distribution channels, we can really strengthen the profile of the two different ranges. New Balance's highly quality Lifestyle models, which are mainly handmade in England, are great for the high-quality fashion retail trade. By presenting the collections of New Balance Life Style and PF Flyers Heritage in an independent distribution channel, we get totally different access to these retailers. The experiences of the first season and in other markets have absolutely confirmed our strategy." The New Balance Lifestyle collection for the autumn/ "room with a view was winter 2011 season comprises interested in the label and around 30 different models we wanted to work with a top Austrian agency. We with similar prices to the New found each other." Balance Performance collection Thomas Stumpp, CEO of and retails at 89 to 200 euros. Chris Sports Europe. In the PF Flyers Heritage collection, there are 17 models in different designs and colours. "The New Balance Lifestyle collection is particularly attractive due to its long-standing history: Thanks to the tradition and values such as the 'made in England' production or the strict ban on child labour, the brand has a positive story to tell. And there is an increasing number of customers in search of these ethical values," he says. www.newbalance.com, www.pfflyers.com, www.chrissports.eu

Joachim Beer is President of Global Fashion & Retail.

Victorinox

SWISS QUALITY

The Swiss company Victorinox is making its European debut in Düsseldorf with a new showroom and the opening of a flagship store. Joachim Beer, President of Global Fashion & Retail, has been with the company since April 2010 and wants to position the label as a lifestyle product in Northern Europe. In addition to the core business of Swiss Army Knives, the product range also includes cutlery, timepieces, fragrances, a travel gear line and a fashion collection. At Königsallee in Düsseldorf, a 500 square metre store as well as a roughly 350 square metre showroom will open in February 2011. The latter will display the complete range of products. Beer can imagine opening additional stores in major German cities. "We're planning on another Menswear from two to three floor spaces in 2011," Victorinox is casual and states Beer, who previously worked functional. as President at Hugo Boss in the U.S. The headquarters of Victorinox Fashion USA are in New York. The clothing line originated in 2001. The label is available in ten countries around the world to date, with flagship stores in London and Geneva and smaller stores in Tokyo and New York. The retail distribution is expected to be organised step-by-step from Düsseldorf. Jens Wolf, formerly the Country Manager of Freesoul, has taken on sales and distribution. The collection, which focuses on menswear, centres on functional, casual, high-quality outerwear. Victorinox AG, located in Ibach-Schwyz, has been in family hands since the company's founding in 1884. It is currently headed by CEO Carl Elsener. www.victorinox.com

Hugo Boss

NEW YORK DELIGHTS

On 4 November 2010 the Hugo Boss Prize, initiated in cooperation with the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York, was awarded for the eighth time. The prize has no conditions for age, sex, nationality or art form. The decisive factors are the artist's innovation and creativity. This year's winner was Düsseldorf artist Hans-Peter Feldmann who impressed the jury with his humorous and sensitive work, which is a collection of everyday things and actions; he makes photographs, creates installations and edits his own art for publication as notebooks and books. The winner is awarded 100,000 dollars in prize money and their own exhibition in the New York Guggenheim. In addition, Hugo Boss its expanding its public relations in the m-commerce sector: Foursquare, a tool used frequently in the USA, is regarded as one of the most successful applications in location—based networking. Users check in to certain locations with their smartphones and are then sent information. Anyone checking into one of the four New York Hugo Boss stores will be sent a catalogue featuring the works of the finalists of the Hugo Boss Prize 2010 and given the option to enter a prize draw. The campaign is running through 31 January 2011 in NYC. www.hugoboss.com style in progress

The winner of the Hugo Boss Prize 2010: Hans-Peter Feldmann.

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Etiqueta Negra

New York Industrie

NEW DISTRIBUTION METHODS

A COMEBACK WITH NEW OWNERS

Aco is celebrating its new brands: A few months ago Michael Schulz and Rudolf Kail from the Aco Modeagentur were put in charge of the development of German and Austrian distribution of Etiqueta Negra, the cult-status label from Argentina. "First and foremost, this new strategy allows us to double the sales staff and monitor the market and the needs of each and every customer," says Simona Abati, CEO of brand owner Indas. The polo and sportswear collection of Etiqueta Negra is inspired by polo sport and Ellerstina, the successful Argentinian polo team. In addition to sophisticated polos and shirts, the collection also features Ellerstina's original team shirts. Since the beginning of 2010, Etiqueta Negra has been available in Germany and Italy. The brand has been sold in South America and the USA since 2003. www.etiquetanegra.eu

The Italian label New York Industrie has a new owner: Fabrizio Lenzi. In 2010 the Italian company bought the historic label, founded in 1976, from its previous owner: Mc Adams S.P.A. Instead of a relaunch, the company decided to design a new, more elegant look for the women's collection. Stylist Marta Martino, who was previously responsible for Grifoni women's range, focuses on blazers, trousers, cashmere pullovers and coats with a clean business look in the style of Jil Sander and Helmut Lang. The new, clear-cut range seems to be paying off: In the first season after the takeover, New York Industrie was able to win more than 300 customers in Italy. The women's outerwear collection is made up of 120 garments that are all produced in Italy. The trousers retail at 150 euros and the trouser suits at 600 euros. www.newyorkindustrie.it

New, clearer lines for a more elegant look.

Tortuga Academy

NEW DEVELOPMENTS IN DISTRIBUTION

Indas Deutschland, the German branch of Indas srl, which owns the Tortuga Academy brand, will start restructuring its distribution network in 2011. Following three start-up seasons distributing the women's and men's collections in 750 shops in Europe with around 200 in Germanspeaking countries, the Aco Modeagentur will now handle German and Austrian distribution. The Aco team is curious about how the future cooperation develops. Although the label was only founded two years ago, its collection is already shown in Europe's best shops. The label's roaring success is due to its unique collections. Tortuga's shirts, polo shirts and jackets are decorated with casual patches, prints, stitching and vintage effects, which are lavishly handcrafted. Designer Stefano Durelli drew his inspiration from a little surf shop called Tortuga on California's Laguna Beach. www.tortugaacademy.eu

From South America to Europe in 2010: The Argentine label Etiqueta Negra is distributed by Aco Modeagentur in Germany and Austria.

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After just two years Tortuga, the label from Indas srl, is being shown in 750 European shops.

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SPLI T TER 01 BJÖRN BORG. This Valentine's Day will feature heart-throbbing fashions from the Swedish underwear specialist Björn Borg: mini-hipsters with a playful ruffle design for her, and shorts with a subtle rose pattern for him. www.bjornborg.com 02 CÉLINE/PHOEBE PHILO. The creative director at Céline

was honoured with the British Designer of the Year award by the British Fashion Council. And that's not all: The Parisian fashion house was also named Designer Brand of the Year. www.celine.com

03 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. The Italian haberdasher opened his first online shop on 9 December 2010. The product range includes the entire 2011 spring/summer collection, including the Zegna Sport line. www.ermenegildozegna.com Modern shop design à la Strellson: large concrete slabs combined with brown shopfitting elements.

Strellson

SHOP BY SHOP

September, October, November – in a once-a-month rhythm last year, Strellson opened three new stores in the Russian cities of Kazan, Omsk and Moscow. The familiar shop design features large-format concrete slabs on the walls and floor as well as shopfittings in brown for Strellson Premium and glossy white for the sportswear collection. In the wake of the previous autumn’s Russian campaign, a new flagship store will now open its doors on German soil. The 460 square metre store at Breidenbacher Hof in Düsseldorf will welcome Strellson customers starting in February. The Swiss company operates a total of 58 shops worldwide. www.strellson.com

P&C Road Show

TIME TO MOVE

Customer service is important and Peek & Cloppenburg has come up with something special in this regard. As the fashion retail partner of the Mercedes Benz Fashion This year Peek & Cloppenburg is again Week in Berlin, the retail going on tour with its road show. company launched its road Photo: the runway look by Marc Cain. show in September 2009 in order to present the trends of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week to P&C's customers. Last year the road show took a tour through P&C stores in places like Düsseldorf, Cologne, Frankfurt, Vienna, Stuttgart and Berlin. The doors were reopened after business hours and customers were presented with trends from the participating labels and brands on the runway, including Boss Black, Hugo, Joseph Janard, Marc Cain and Napapijri. Guests were then allowed to try on their favourite outfit in a late-night shopping event that also included trend styling in beauty lounges by L'Oréal Professionnel and Yves Saint Laurent plus live music and refreshments. This was so well-received by the customers that the glamorous road show will go on tour again this year. www.peek-und-cloppenburg.com style in progress

04 PUMA. The sports label received the 2010 German Sustainability Award in the "Most Sustainable Future Strategy" category. The Pumavision concept combines the notion of sustainability with creativity and a modern approach like no other brand, said the members of the jury. http://vision.puma.com 05 GOOGLE. The US internet giant has gone into the online fashion business. It offers designers and retailers an opportunity to sell their products at www.boutiques.com 06 TRIBECA. New York denim label Tribeca has hired Sam Frenzel as its new Creative Director. Frenzel's work for Tribeca will be revealed for the first time in January at Bread & Butter trade fair in Berlin. www.tribeca-jeans.com

07 LUIS TRENKER. German TV host Thomas Gottschalk is drumming up support for a health clinic in Ethiopia established by the South Tyrolean label Luis Trenker and the Association of South Tyrolean Doctors for the Third World. The project has received funds for the past year from proceeds generated by sales of teddy bears (available at the Trenker online shop). www.luistrenker.com 08 LUDWIG3. As part of the new trade fair FA!R2010, German concept store Ludwig3 was awarded the first FA!R trade prize in the category of textile retailers. The price is awarded to retailers who have made a sizeable contribution to the support and sale and fair-trade products. www.ludwig3.de 09 HACKETT LONDON. The English luxury brand Hackett London won the Walpole Award for British Luxury Overseas 2010. The brand was honoured for its achievements in export and trade, as well as for its rising sales volume and wonderful special events. www.hackett.com

10 ADVANCED STYLE. The older we get, the better our personal

style – at least that's what the bloggers at Advanced Style claim as they present the best and most creatively dressed older people on the streets of New York. Some young people could learn quite a bit from these senior citizens. http://advancedstyle.blogspot.com

07 01

09 03 06

coming soon ...

www.ucm-verlag.at/app

PHOTO: WWW.BORISBERTRAM.COM

SHOWROOM DUESSELDORF AGENTUR TOEPFER RATHER STRASSE 49C PHONE +49 (0)211 13 06 36 0 WWW.AGENTUR-TOEPFER.COM SHOWROOM MUNICH 18.-23. FEB. 2011 KESSELHAUS LILIENTHAL ALLEE 29 80939 MUNICH TEL +49 177 644 4424

34WHITE APPARTMENTO 50 AREA FORTE BLUM BP STUDIO CP COMPANY DEPARTMENT 5 FALIERO SARTI FINE COLLECTION FRANK & EILEEN EST 1947 GAIA ROSSI GMS-75 HOUSE OF HARLOW 1960 SHOES HOLLYWOOD TRADING COMPANY JOHN SHEEP JUCCA KRISTENSEN DU NORD LEIGH AND LUCA LOFT PARIS MASNADA MODERN VINTAGE MY PANTS NIMO NOELANI NOVEMB3R QUALITY PEOPLE RIVIERA CLUB SAMANTHA SUNG VSP BY VESPUCCI ZOE KARSSEN

WINTER’11/12 Premium Berlin 19 - 21/01/2011

Supreme Düsseldorf 03 - 08/02/2011

Tracht & Country Salzburg 04 - 06/03/2011

WINTER’11/12

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Agentur Toepfer

INCREDIBLE BUT TRUE

"We're more than satisfied with the past season," says Udo Toepfer, owner of the agency of the same name in Düsseldorf. "Our current collections are widely accepted on the market – and the positive sales figures speak for themselves. Now we're looking forward to the coming season and have a few new collections in the pipeline." Newcomers from last season include Department 5 with luxurious casualwear for her and him from Italy, and the Blum label founded in 2009 in Bologna, which features the finest cashmere at correspondingly high upmarket average prices of 200 euros wholesale and has attracted customers like Sträuli in Zurich, Hasardeur, Apropos and Bungalow. Another success story is Area Forte, a shoe label with beautifully washed leather in a vintage look – and an owner with a sense of humour. Mauro Foresi grew tired of being constantly asked if his shoes were actually made in Italy, so he decided one day to change his logo and add a whimsical statement to the sole of certain models: "Incredible but true! Shoes really made in Italy." This season Agentur Töpfer has chosen a new location for its ordering days in Munich. The collections will be presented to customers at Kesselhaus, Lilienthalallee 37 in a 400 square metre space beginning on 18 February. Labels: 34 White, Area Forte, Blum, CP Company, Department 5, Faliero Sarti, Fine Collection, GMS 75, HTC Belts, John Sheep, Kristensen du Nord, Leigh & Luca, Loft, Masnada, My Face, My Pants, Noelani, November, Riviera Club, Samantha Sung, Vespucci, Zoe Karssen Agentur Toepfer, 40476 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.agentur-toepfer.com

Vintage 55 (above) belongs to the Californian label Sundek and to Agentur Schwarte's portfolio. Parajumpers is adding new quality leather and lambskin to its range.

Area Forte is introducing footwear made of washed leather for an authentic vintage look. And, believe it or not, the shoes are really made in Italy.

Matthias Schwarte Modeagentur

VINTAGE 55 ACQUIRED BY SUNDEK

The retro label Vintage 55 from Milan has been sold to the Californian sports and beachwear label Sundek. The fashion agency Schwarte began selling Sundek in Germany two seasons ago and, following the launch of its first sportswear collection in the summer of 2011, will launch a winter collection for the first time. Vintage 55 was added to the Munich-based agency's portfolio of labels in October 2010 and is sold in Germany and Austria. The American label Alp-n-Rock is expanding its collection in autumn/winter 2011 to include sweatshirts and down vests. Benson N.Y. will feature more cotton and cashmere materials in the coming season. Parajumpers is introducing new leather and lambskin materials, including sweats and polos. Hell is for Heroes will turn to a pure sportswear collection in the coming season with a focus on the high-quality sportswear retail trade. In its first winter season the label 30°Berlin will feature piecedyed wool jerseys, brushed cotton and Tencel fabrics. As the name indicates, everything can be washed at 30°. Labels: 30°Berlin, Alp-n-Rock, Armani Jeans, Benson N.Y., Hell is for Heroes, Kieselstein-Cord, Leg End, Parajumpers, Sansibar Sylt, SUN68, Sundek, Sundek by Neil Barrett, Tosca Blu, Vintage 55 Matthias Schwarte Modeagentur, 80807 Munich/Germany, www.agentur-schwarte.de

style in progress

Cool casualwear of natural materials with handcrafted used effects: That's Department 5.

+49 (0)89 35892730 SPORTSWEAR COMPANY GERMANY GMBH

40524 ULTRA LIGHT NYLON JACKET WITH TYVEK速 LINING LAMINATED TO A NYLON MESH. TWO PATCH POCKETS WITH DOUBLE OPENINGS. STRETCH RIBBED JERSEY RAISED COLLAR WITH BLACK ELASTIC BASE WITH TWO NARROW PARALLEL STRIPES. STRETCH RIBBED JERSEY BOTTOM HEM AND CUFFS. ZIP FASTENING. WWW.STONEISLAND.COM

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Agentur Elke Wirichs

EQUIPPED FOR THE MARKET

Founded in 2001, Agentur Elke Wirichs is a specialist that prepares labels for the German market. Maurizio Cittone, owner of the down specialist add, praises the ongoing co-operation with Elke Wirichs that exists since 2005: "It was invaluable for us to have the right partners – otherwise we couldn't have established ourselves as we did. The owner intensively nurtures the co-operation with add, which is one of the most important labels at her agency. "Speaking perfect Italian is, of course, an enormous starting advantage in doing this," says Wirichs. In the show room at Munich's Lodenfrey Park, other labels are also in focus: Polo Sylt or newcomer OGE & Co. Behind this premium denim label is OGE LTD, which holds the trademark rights of One Green Elephant. Another news item this season is the belt label VMP from Hamburg. Labels: add, Vogt + Königin by Connemara, Gioia de Seda, OGE & Co, VMP Elke Wirichs Agentur München, 80805 Munich/Germany, www.elke-wirichs.com

Elke Wirichs has been in charge of German distribution for add since 2005.

Aco Modeagentur Germany

THE ITALIAN CONNECTION, PART I

In addition to the denim label Cycle and Get Lost, this season's portfolio of new brands for Germany's Aco Modeagentur includes Etiqueta Negra, Tortuga, Geospirit and Ballantyne. Aco has undergone some major changes and now features a new design team and a more sporty focus. The agency has completely relaunched its women's collection. A new price structure with more emphasis on starting prices is intended to offer greater incentive to the German market. The Geospirit brand was relaunched and its sales and distribution have been turned over to Aco Germany, which is responsible for northern and central Germany. There's also something new at the Florentine fashion label Patrizia Pepe where a sporty women's line, tentatively named Patrizia Pepe Sport & Chic, has been launched. Aco will be handling the sales and distribution of this line in Germany and Austria. Labels: Ballantyne, Cycle, Day Birger et Mikkelsn, Ermanno by Ermanno Scervino, Etiqueta Negra, Faith Connexion, Ferré Milano, Galliano, Geospirit, Get Lost, Just Cavalli, Kif if (women only), Love Moschino, Patrizia Pepe Sport & Chic (women only), Sand, Tortuga, Versace Collection, Versace Jeans, Who*s Who (women only), Zu Elements. Men's and women's undergarments: Bikkembergs, Bikkembergs Accessoires, Frankie Morello, John Galliano, Just Cavalli, Moschino, Roberto Cavalli. ACO Modeagentur GmbH Deutschland, 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.acomode.de The sportwear label Etiqueta Negra is new to the portfolio of the Aco Modeagentur.

style in progress

Agentur Kappler/Agentur Bässler

A GOOD FEELING

Staffing news for the Munich-based fashion distributor: Martina van der Wielen is the latest newly motivated sales agent to join the ranks of employees at Agentur Kappler. There's also news regarding labels, not only at Agentur Kappler, but also at Agentur Bässler in Düsseldorf: The shoes by Dolfie are a wild mixture of a moccasin and a sneaker. The designers' stated goal was to bring a bit of colour into the world of fashion. The Spaniard Adolfo Lenoyro and Brazilian Barbara de Assis have brought the label to life. After gaining years of experience at various fashion companies in London, they're now crafting all their individual ideas and visions according to their own taste. The fact that Dolfie Shoes are handcrafted in Europe will give you a good feeling. Retail prices for the spring/summer collection are between 169 and 199 euros, and for the autumn/winter season between 179 and 229 euros. Also new to the portfolio of both agencies is the Swiss label Swiss Chriss with a small range of top-quality, light wool jackets for women and men. Labels: Claudio Cutuli, DadCrown, Dirtee Hollywood, Dolfie, Ed Hardy, George Gina & Lucy, Giorgio Brato, Gwynedds, Hetregó, Liebig, LnA, Original Vintage Style, Outpost, Swiss Chriss, The Same Guy, Tkees, Violet, Wildinger & Sons, WLG Agentur Kappler, 80805 Munich/Germany, www.agentur-kappler.de Agentur Bässler, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.agentur-baessler.de

Shoes from Dolfie: a crazy cross between a moccasin and a sneaker.

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Raab Prues

BOGLIOLI GETS ITS OWN HOME

At Modeagentur Raab Prues, Boglioli was given its own showroom at the end of last year. The distribution agency set up especially for this purpose is being managed by Wolfgang Raab and is located at the old and new address. Meanwhile, Raab Prues is expanding its portfolio of established brands. Michael Prues: "For 2011, we are setting our sights on in-depth growth, not extensive superficial growth." You can see this from Raab Prues' expanded collections such as Incotex, Red, Glanshirt, Montedoro and Zanone. Italian stylist Luca Roda is also adding a women's collection to his high-quality complete men's collection. Roda is already popular with the fair sex â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Many women pinch their accessories from his men's collections. Labels: Boglioli Uomo/Donna, Club des Sports, Cristiano Fissore, Glanshirt, Incotex, Mackintosh, Mastai Ferretti, Montedoro, Roda, Truzzi, Zanone Modeagentur Raab Prues GmbH, 80805 Munich/Germany, www.rp-mode.de Since the end of last year, Boglioli has its own showroom with independent distribution.

Best Bodylines

SPACE AND LIGHT

Leather jackets different for once: Eleven Elfs.

The Hamburg branch of the Best Bodylines agency has moved to a new showroom. With more than 200 square metres of space, there is now enough room to present the collections of brands such as 81Hours and Dear Cashmere. Nothing in these four modern walls indicates that they are located in an art nouveau building. One visual highlight is the large skylight that stretches across the entire length of the room as in a greenhouse. Best Bodylines not only has new premises, but also new staff: Two new employees have been added to the German distribution teams for North Rhine-Westphalia and Hesse. The agency will be represented at both Premium Berlin and Premium Munich. Labels: 81Hours, 7Rockers, David Lerner, Dear Cashmere, Hoss Intropia, Johnny Was, Rockstar, S. En Soie, Tag Element BESTbodylines Headoffice, 65760 Eschborn/Germany, Showroom Hamburg, 20251 Hamburg/Germany www.bestbodylines.eu, www.bodylines.de

Agentur Maximilian

A ROARING SUCCESS

The Hamburg branch is now set up in a new, larger showroom.

style in progress

For years Maximilian Lehrer was in charge of distribution for the label Manuel Luciano. Then Luciano decided to develop fashion for a lower price segment and founded the leather label Eleven Elfs, which was a roaring success. Ecstatic about the label's success, Lehrer made the spontaneous decision to found his own company and Agentur Maximilian in Munich was born: The agency has now been doing business since summer 2010. Joining the leather jackets of Eleven Elfs and glamorous fashion of Manuel Luciano are the bracelets of Private Suite and the foxtails of Yuly Affairs. The Head of Sales in Germany, Austria and Switzerland is Jennifer HĂśrl. In addition, the agency has customers in Spain and the Netherlands. Labels: Eleven Elfs, Manuel Luciano, Private Suite, Yulyaffairs Agentur Maximilian, 81673 Munich/Germany, jennifer@agentur-maximilian.com

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The fashion from French label Hartford is elegant, modern and sophisticated.

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welcome to my room

ON HIS OWN TWO FEET

At first it was just separate spaces and then it turned into an independent concept: Under the name welcome to my room, Christian Obojes has established a second agency. "Welcome to my room is the spearhead for our modern-urban, casual collections with a focus on denims, as well as other interesting innovations," he says. Although welcome to my room is still connected to the parent company, it also has its own independent brand presence. The division run by Theresa Steinbacher (Salzburg) and Philippe Stitzel (Switzerland) welcomes two newcomers this season: A new brand for Austria is Friendly Hunting, which is featured for the second season in the Swiss collection. The second newcomer is Just YummieJeans from the underwear and shaping line Yummie Tummie, which is expanding its range to include innovative women's jeans with a shaping effect. Labels: Aglini, Denham the Jeanmaker, Dekker/Dekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;her, Dylan George, Friendly Hunting, Giorgio Brato, House of the Gods, HTC, Just YummieJeans, Lauren Moshi, Mu, New Balance, PF Flyers, Roque Ilaria Nistri, 7 For All Mankind Silver Jeans, Simeon Farrar, The Same Guy welcome to my room, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, 8045 Zurich/Switzerland, www.welcometomyroom.at

Komet und Helden

THE STYLE OF THE '60S

welcome to my room is the new subsidiary of room with a view, which is owned by Christian Obojes.

free mountain

COMEBACK

At Agentur free mountain located in Salzburg, there have been three important new additions: Jagger & Evans and Siviglia since summer 2010 plus the innovative shoe label Shabbies Amsterdam. This is reason enough for Andreas Schmied to invest in infrastructure and personnel. A new addition to the team is Irmi Haider, who brings a great deal of sector expertise to Michael Stars and Shabbies Amsterdam, the labels for which she is responsible. According to Schmied, "Irmi Haider's expertise makes her the perfect addition to our team." The team of Irmi Haider, Susi Moser and Schmied is very optimistic about the new season. "There are going to be a number of surprises, which we don't yet want to reveal," he concludes. Labels: 1921 Jeans, add, Antai, Della Scala, Flowers for Friends, Fluxing, Goldsign, Gwynedds, Jagger & Evans, La Violet, Michael Stars, Shabbies Amsterdam, Siviglia free mountain, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, www.freemountain.at

New to the team: Irmi Haider (to the right in the photo next to Andreas Schmied and Susanne Moser).

style in progress

The French label Hartford by Komet und Helden will be presented in Germany with the start of the autumn/winter 2011/12 season. The company was founded in 1979 by Yves Chareton and stands for elegant understatement. The French label is named after Hartford, a city in Britain that embodies the brit-chic of the '60s. Both the women's and men's collections mainly include classically cut pieces in subdued colours. A great deal of focus is placed on blouses and shirts. Despite masculine details such as men's hats, the women's collection always maintains its feminine touch. Jackets and blazers wholesale at 80 to 100 euros, shirts and blouses 35 to 55 euros, cashmere and knit sweaters 35 to 70 euros and trousers 40 to 50 euros. Labels: AG Adriano Goldschmied, BD Baggies, Blauer, Gilded Age, Hartford, One Teaspoon, Pence Pants, Preventi, Riccardo Forconi, Save Khaki, Superdry, Volta Footwear, Woolrich Komet und Helden GmbH, 80805 Munich/Germany, www.kometundhelden.de

WHERE THE ACTION IS

Introducing the S/S 2011 Underwear Collection

BJORNBORG.COM

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Gabriele Frantzen has added to the range of her own label with Best of 19 Luxury Fancy Scarfs. An additional acquisition is elegant knitwear from Rosel (photo right).

CP Fashion

TWO UNDER ONE ROOF

In future the agency CP Fashion will split its portfolio into two divisions in order to make it more customer-friendly. Premium for example will include labels such as Silver Jeans, Michael Stars, 1921, Custo Line and Johnson Motors, whilst Luxury collections will include Goldsign, Robins Jeans, Moose Knuckle and CP Shades. The latter two are new additions. Most collections will continue to be presented at the showrooms on Schirmerstrasse in Düsseldorf, while Moose Knuckle, Dylan George and CP Shades will be found at the Inken Wisdorf showroom at Ürdinger Strasse 5. Like the jeans label Blood & Glitter by Terry Fraser from England, CP Shades is one of the agency's new names; a traditional label that was produced in San Francisco and, thanks to its fashionable reinterpretations of tops and oversized shirts, was rediscovered two seasons ago by top retailers like Ron Hermann and Kitson in L.A. A new addition from Michael Stars is likeable designer Michael Cohen's knitwear collection, which is as casual as its casual shirts. Labels: 1921, Custo, Dylan George, Goldsign, Johnson Motors, Lotta Stennson, Michael Stars, Mohn, Moose Knuckle, Robin’s Jeans, Silver, T Bags, Yummie Tummie CP Fashion, 79713 Bad Säckingen/Germany, www.cpfashion.de

Best of 19

HEAVENLY GARMENTS

Gabriele Frantzen is adding three new brands to her portfolio: Rosel, Richard Sorger and Best of 19 Luxury Fancy Scarfs. Rosel, a knitwear collection from Germany, regards itself as the perfect symbiosis of elegance and comfort. The designer Juliane Camposano uses environmentally friendly fabrics for her fashion – Bamboo cashmere is used particularly often in her collection. The British designer Richard Sorger is renowned for his comfortable tops and dresses with their intricate embroidery or printing. His winter collection will feature floral designs. The Luxury Fancy Scarfs by Best of 19 use silk fabrics and lace. They are hand-sewn into a triangle and tassels or Scandinavian fox fur is added. The back of the scarves is made of soft, grey organic jersey. Best of 19 will be represented at the upcoming fashion trade fairs such as Berlin Premium, Munich Fashion, Gallery Copenhagen, Designers & Agents NY, as well as the at the Fashion Week in Düsseldorf. Labels: Best of 19 Home, Best of 19 Jewels, Best of 19 Luxury Fancy Scarfs, Gabriele Frantzen, Julie Park, Muks, Richard Sorger, Rosel, Tai Love Quotes, Utzon Best of 19, 80335 Munich/Germany, www.bestof19.com

Modeagentur Klauser

RELOCATION

CP Fashion's Reinhart Oberstein hopes to appeal to a wider market with Silver Jeans from Canada.

style in progress

Modeagentur Klauser moved in October to Bürkleinstrasse 10, which is just around the corner from Maximilianstrasse in the centre of Munich. "The move to the city centre was very important to me," says Norbert Klauser, who once again has a few exciting collections in store for the current season. One of these is Manuel Ritz, which features innovative ready-made menswear from Italy with wholesale price ranges starting at 99 euros for suits. The label Inutile offers vintage bags and shirts in a high-quality Pronto collection, also from Italy, for men and women. Honululu Beach is the beachwear collection of an aquatics club founded in 1911 by King Kamehameha. He was an Olympic swimmer for the US and the first Hawaiian to bring home a gold medal. The swim shorts with old school-style floral prints are an homage to him. According to Klauser, the K-Way label has a great future ahead. It has long been a part of the agency's product range with its reversible down jackets and wind breakers. "K-Way is the jacket in Italy and is on the verge of displacing other market leaders," states Klauser. "I firmly believe it." Labels: 120 Lino, 4554-Inutile, A.P. Leather, Alessi, Amaort, Betwoin, Care Label, Caruso, CP By Coral Blue, Chatwin, Cochrain, Colors of California, Coral Blue, Des Artistes, Dragon Diffusion, Fauzian Jeunesse, Femme by Michele Rossi, Franklin & Marshall, Gemmah, Gianni Barbato, Gold Brothers, Himalayan, Honululu Beach, Inutile, K-Way, La Martina, Laura B, Majestic, Manuel Ritz, Mou, MSGM, Peoples of Shibuya, Roy Rogers, Salvatore Piccolo, Superga, Ten C, True Royal, Uneeto, Vent Couvert Modeagentur Klauser, 80538 Munich/Germany, www.modeagentur-klauser.de

ÂŠ Copyright and Design Rights Pentland Chaussures Ltd. 2010. Contact: ++49 8651 76851-0

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Agentur Treibstoff

PRODUCTS WITH SOUL

The label J Brand, which is distributed by Unifa's subsidiary Triple H Agency, focuses on timetested styles in a new leather look.

Unifa

OF JEANS AND SHIRTS

The label Alleira M is new to Unifa's portfolio. For her T-shirts actress Mariella Ahrens has combined quotes from classic poetry with animal motifs. They come in both short- and long-sleeved versions. They're only available for women at the moment, but men's and kids' collections are coming soon. Unifa continues to push its best brands. J. Brand focuses on the perfect fit of jeans. The agency, which has represented the label since 2006 through its subsidiary Triple H Agency, relies on product quality. Always on the lookout for new trends and opportunities, J Brand has developed the colour Stealth, a leather varnish for models Agnes and Houlihan. The denim label Paige USA is also constantly expanding its range of products and recently launched a new model called Bentley on the market. Narrow around the hips, snug on the thighs, and with wide legs, it's a throwback to the '70s.The trousers are available in several washes and, in addition to denim, in twill and cord. Labels: 291, Alleira M., Amor & Psyche, Arnold Zimberg, Citizens of Humanity, Dom Rebel, Duarte, Ella Moss, Equipment, Fortunate Sun, G-Lab, GCW, Hudson, J Brand, Joie, Joie Soft, Juicy Couture, Junk Food, Nation Ltd., Nectar, Paige Premium Denim, Splendid, Twenty8Twelve, Winter Kate Unifa GmbH, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.unifa-fashion.com Paige USA: Blue Brain GmbH, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, nuernberger@blue-brain.biz

"Quality and tradition are more than just empty words for me," says Fred Bschaden, owner of Agentur Treibstoff. "Only those in a position to look back are also able to see into the future." This goes for his main collections, from Nigel Cabourn to Spiewalk and Gilded Age. It's also the case for the new addition Natural Selection from England, an authentic jeans collection priced at 150 to 200 euros. It can be found at Feldenkirchen, 14 oz and Engelhorn starting in autumn/winter 2011-2012. From Red Wing this season we will see not only its successful boots, but also hats and leather caps in cooperation with the famous Stetson brand. Master Smith is also taking roads both old and new and has moved its production to the Swabian Alps, where the collection is manufactured on circular knitting machines from the '20s. Last but not least Ursula Klein is currently presenting her label Dukes with art events in the retail trade. With select partners such as Pool, Jaspers and Frauenschuh, she will show how European army belts can be used for a much more peaceful purpose. Labels: Dukes, Filson, Gilded Age, K 1 by Dockers, Master Smith, Natural Selection, Nigel Cabourn, Red Wing Shoes, Spiewalk Agentur Treibstoff, Düsseldorf/Germany, www.treib-stoff.net

Natural Selection is a new acquisition for Fred Bschaden – honest jeans from England.

Complete looks by Agentur Kofler: Left: Blazer: Arma, Shirt: IHeart, Scarf: Max Tessuti, Trousers: Exit Brooklyn, Bracelet: Giulu. Middle: Shirt, scarf: I Heart, Leather leggings: Arma, Shoes: Scholl. Right: Leather shirt: Arma, Blouse: IHeart, Scarf: Amorph, Jeans: Nine in the Morning, Shoes: Scholl

style in progress

Gabriela Kofler

THE RIGHT- AND LEFT-HAND WOMAN

Agency owner Gabriele Kofler describes her new employee Christina Seer as her right- and left-hand woman. She's a big help when it comes to representing the new labels Elbsand, Zenuby Genuby and Arizona belts. The two ladies from Hamburg have thought up something special when it comes to Elbsand: jackets made of softshell material. The designers have managed to breathe new and fashionable life into a material that was previously only known from the sportswear sector. Another new addition is the down jackets by Zubeny Genuby, which already enjoyed very successful sales on the North German market last winter season. The jacket collection is positioned in the premium segment and retails at prices around 500 euros. And last but not least, Gabriela Kofler has added belts by Arizona Dreams to her portfolio. Their buckles have been designed by artists and the belts themselves are made of cowhide, crocodile or python leather. They're made in Italy. All three labels will be presented at the upcoming Premium trade fair in Berlin. Labels: iHeart, Arma Leder, Exit Brooklyn, 9 in the Morning, Walk in the Park, Scholl fashion and shoes, Giulu Schmuck, Gioia de Seda jewellery, Amorph Berlin, Max Tessutti, Tota, Williams, Wandelei Gabriela Kofler – Agentur für Mode, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, www.gabrielakofler.at

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Hinterhofagentur

A NEW AGENCY ON THE BLOCK

A new star in the agency sky: The Munich-based Hinterhofagentur by Dominik Meurer and Lars Fischer, which was founded last year. The company regards itself as a product and brand scout for the upmarket sportswear retail sector. Its philosophy is: Give handcrafted collections of small labels the opportunity to present themselves on the German and Austrian market. The Fratelli Rossetti agency has interesting news: The American Capsule Collection designed by George Esquivel will be brought to the German market by Meurer und Fischer. The same goes for the sportswear collection of Ossa from Girona/Spain, a manufacturer whose roots lie in the production of trail and cross-country motorbikes. All new collections will be presented at the trade fairs Premium in Berlin and Munich, as well as at the Supreme in Düsseldorf. Labels: Fratelli Rossetti, JeyColeman, Joe Black, Lucky de Luca, Mc Alson, Ossa, Soho, Uniform, Wool & Co. Die Hinterhofagentur, 80802 Munich/Germany, diehinterhofagentur.com

Lucky de Luca is one of the labels now represented by Agentur Hinterhof.

Agentur Ventrella

ALL GOOD THINGS COME IN THREES

The goal of Swiss agency The Wearhouse is to offer complete looks for women and men.

The Wearhouse

FROM HEAD TO TOE

Fashion from head to toe – that's The Wearhouse's claim. It started with the scarves from Archivio Camerucci, which were sold at the top Italian shop Luisa Via Roma. These were followed by sweats and T-shirts by Better Rich, which agency head Patrick Ebnöter and his team began offering some six months ago. In Switzerland the sweats and T-shirt collections had reached over 30 customers after only two seasons. The women's collection by Hunkydory from Sweden, another new addition to The Wearhouse, is laid-back, but still exciting. The fashionable pieces designed for daily use are winning new fans every day. And that's the case with the lambskin boots by Love from Australia. The buckles and belts on some models can be switched, which gives the classic boots a new look. Starting in the autumn/winter season, the trouser line Siviglia from Italy will also be available for the first time. One interesting factor here is the price range: The end customer can have them for 139 to 189 euros. Labels: Better Rich, Blauer USA, Brogden, Caliban, C.P. Company, Earnest Sewn, Fine Collection, FTC Cashmere, Heiko Storz, Jaggy, Kuyichi, Mackage, Rether, Stone Island, Tretorn, Vintage 55 The Wearhouse Fashion Trade GmbH, 8703 Erlenbach/Switzerland, www.wearhouse.ch

The Munich-based Agentur Ventrella has taken three new labels under its wings: First: Mr. & Mrs. Furs from Italy – a luxurious reinterpretation of the parka: Original military parkas and field jackets are lined with furs such as rabbit, fox and mink. This much luxury is a must-have: Wholesale prices range from 830 to 1,250 euros, depending on the fur. Second: Italian label Mr. Wolf, which designs shoes of all types, from the Budapest model and loafers to ankle boots and biker boots. Nappa leather and suede are used, and various models are decorated with rivets or buckles. All are washed and distressed in a time-consuming process, and are available for both men and women. The wholesale price is between 65 and 79 euros. And third, the agency will immediately begin representing Gold of Florence shoes. These models look great with chinos thanks to their sporty, tough style. They wholesale between 70 and 80 euros. Labels: 5282, Altea, Avant Toi Black Label, Avant Toi White Label, Caliban Donna, Caliban Uomo, Crust, DNL, Full Floor, Gold, Goti, Happiness, Leather Crown , Le Sarte Pettegole, Le Sentier, Le Sentier Fur, Mr. Wolf, Mr. & Mrs. Furs, Monocrom, Rue de Mathieu, Shak Chic, Tagliatore Donna, Tagliatore Uomo, Tintoria Mattei, Old Glory, O.C.T Agentur Ventrella GmbH, 80807 Munich/Germany, www.agentur-ventrella.de

One of the new additions to the Agentur Ventrella portfolio is the Italian luxury jacket label Mr. & Mrs. Furs.

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room with a view

CONSTANT DEVELOPMENT

An extended portfolio with one new brand – That's the constellation of the Salzburg- and Zurich-based room with a view agency, which is just entering its new sales season. The product range of the company founded by Christian Obojes now includes the upper-casual brand R95th. Robin's Jean has returned to the list of the represented brands. And there's also news on the staff front: The Salzburg team welcomed aboard Gerda Frenkenberger, an employee with lots of sales experience. She will be mainly responsible for the Peuterey brand. The back office team now has additional support too from Doris Lukas.

When it comes to positioning, Christian Obojes and his showroom managers Julia Mayr-Reisch (Salzburg) and Philippe Stitzel (Zurich) have a clear focus: "room with a view is the agency for sporty and elegant premium brands." Labels: 81 hours, Dear Cashmere, George Gina & Lucy, Geospirit, Huberman’s, Original Vintage Clothing, Paschbeck Fummel & Kram, Peuterey, R95th, Robin’s Jean, Saami Crafts, Scarvesface, Sophie, Style Butler, Supertrash, Szen, Trove Tkees, warm-e and more. room with a view, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, 8045 Zurich/Switzerland, www.roomwithaview.at

A new addition to room with a view: the Belgian label R95th.

ACO Modeagentur Austria

THE ITALIAN CONNECTION, PART II

Aco in Austria has received reinforcements both in terms of manpower and in terms of the agency's portfolio. The team in Austria has been enlarged in order to concentrate on the development of existing shop and brand concepts, as well as on the sales and distribution of new brands. New clients include both the Etiqueta Negra and Tortuga brands of the Indas company, which have restructured their sales and distribution in Austria and Germany and are now represented by Aco in both countries. Ballantyne has also newly positioned itself and, starting this season, will be distributed by the agency as well. The list of new labels in the agency's portfolio also includes Trapper Queens from the König company, one of Germany's biggest producers of leather goods. And there's another new leather label: The Italian label Gimo’s has expanded its range and is now introducing a collection of fabric jackets to the market. And last but not least: Maliparmi, which up to now has been handled primarily by an Aco partner agency in Vienna, is fully integrated into the showroom in Salzburg. Labels: Aphero, Ballantyne, Brooks Brothers, Cycle, C’N’C Costume National, Cappopera, Cinque, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, EAN13, Ermanno by Ermanno Scervino, Etiqueta Negra, Etoile du Monde, Faith Connexion, Ferré Milano, Galliano, Get Lost, Gimo’s, Harmont & Blaine, Just Cavalli, L.B.M. 1911, Love Moschino, Kathleen Madden, Maliparmi, Napapijri, Neil Barrett by Sundek, Orwell Style Pants, Patrizia Pepe Sport & Chic, Phard, Riani, Sand, Sundek, Tortuga Academy, Trapper Queens, Trussardi Jeans, Versace Collection, VJC - Versace, Who’s who, Zu+Elements. ACO Modeagentur GmbH, 5020 Salzburg/Austria und 1010 Vienna/Austria, www.acomode.at This season Aco Austria is presenting several new additions to its portfolio, such as jeans from Cycle. style in progress

Flagship Boutique: Rochstrasse 18, Berlin Mitte

Come see us at Bread & Butter 19.20.21 January Berlin www.florisvanbommel.com

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Bread & Butter

ABSOLUTE BUSINESS

The 24th Bread & Butter is entitled Absolute. "We want to use this to emphasise our position regarding the selected brand and visitor portfolios, the presentation and the constant improvement of Bread & Butter's content," explains B&B President Karl-Heinz Müller. It's tradition to hold an opening party on the eve of the first day of the trade fair. This year's motto is Cotton Club and the sinful Berlin of the '20s and '30s. The event will feature live boxing matches, variety and burlesque shows, as well as a themed music programme with bands and DJs. In addition, the guests can try their luck at roulette, poker and blackjack tables. Tempelhof's new exhibitors include: Blood is the New Black, Canada Goose, Eastpak, Gun Shoes, Hartford, J. Lindeberg, Mads Norgaard, Murphy & Nye, Pure Oz, Red Green, Refrigiwear, River Woods and Seil Marschall. The Kids Camp that was first introduced last summer will not be continued in its present form. Müller chaired a problem-solving discussion in December with 30 participants from the children's segment to consider needs and requirements of an international kids' format. Next summer B&B YOUNGSTARS, an independent kidswear fair, will take place on an area of 18,000 square metres just seven days after the BBB from 15. to 17.7.2011. The preparations for the 10th Bread & Butter anniversary in summer of 2011 (6 – 8 July 2011) have already kicked off. The plan is to get the capital's retailers involved in numerous events and hold a huge open air event on the eve of the trade fair at Berlin's Tempelhof Airport where exhibitors, visitors and the citizens of Berlin will have the chance to celebrate. 19-21 January 2011, www.breadandbutter.com

More than 100 exhibitors will present their collections not only live but also on virtual Pitti Uomo for the first time.

Pitti Immagine Uomo

THE VIRTUAL TRADE SHOW

This year, for the first time, exhibitors will be displaying not only in real life at the Pitti Uomo, but also at a virtual trade show platform where retailers can even place orders online. Trade show organizer Pitti Immagine is venturing into new and exciting territory: Virtual trade shows will be launched after both the Pitti Uomo and the Pitti Bimbo. Both virtual events will open their doors one week after the respective trade shows have ended – and will be accessible online for one month. It will even be possible to place orders at the virtual events. In order to make this pilot project possible, 40 crews of photographers will be dispatched to take pictures of articles on display and process these images for the virtual space. This enormous challenge is being tackled by a newly founded subsidiary called FieraDigitale. In November more than 100 Pitti Immagine Uomo exhibitors had already signed up to participate in www.e-pitti.com, including brands like Gant, Fred Perry, Brooks Brothers and Italia Independent. 11-14 January 2011, www.pittimmagine.com, www.e-pitti.com

Premium

BIGGER AND BETTER

Bread & Butter is starting its anniversary year without kids but with a series of new labels.

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1000 exhibitors, 23,000 square metres space: Premium has added a 3,000 square metre extension to its exhibition area in the old Postbahnhof for its autumn-winter 2011 – 2012 event. "Despite the increase in space, we still have an acute lack of space and unfortunately have had to turn down many good brands," says trade fair organiser Norbert Tillmann. "We've been booked out for a long time." The exhibitors include names such as Current Elliott, J Brand, Neil Barrett and Peuterey, as well as Roeckl und Coccinelle for accessories. The area for highend, classic and progressive menswear is occupied by names such as Boglioli and Baldessarini. Strenesse Blue, Michalsky and Hoss Intropia can be found in the area for sophisticated feminity and contemporary classics. "We want to offer retailers a selection of the world's best brands," explains Anita Tillmann from Premium. "Buyers are in search of the best products – That's exactly what we have at Premium." 19-21. Januar 2011, www.premiumexhibitions.com

GmbH

Plange Mühle 1 | Weizenmühlenstraße 21 | 40221 Düsseldorf | www.unifa-fashion.com | pr@unifafashion.com

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cpd signatures

FORMAT CHANGED

Eight theme worlds draw retailers from around the world - from Spain to Japan and Brazil – to the French capital.

Prêt-à-Porter Paris

FASHION UNIVERSE

"Despite the changes taking place in the world of fashion trade fairs, Prêt à Porter Paris remains the most international meeting place for the industry," says Mayouri Sengchanh of German liaison office Exalis. "Also important are the design platforms Atmosphère and The Box for high-quality accessories at the Paris Fashion Week in early March and early October, The Train and The Box in New York, as well as The Living Room in Tokyo, with which the event organizer has expanded his portfolio." The Paris trade fair draws 1,400 exhibitors with international visitors making up more than 40 per cent of the attendance. An increase was noted in September, especially in the number of visitors coming from Spain, Italy, Japan and Brazil. In January eight themes will again be presented. New features: Secret By for leather bags and luggage, with labels like Paul & Joe Sister, Le temps des Cerises, Esprit and Pierre Cardin. 22-25 January 2011. www.pretparis.com

Ispo/Ispovision

MORE SERVICE

This year too, ispovision's motto is Premium Sportstyle and it is offering brands a platform to bridge the gap between sport and fashion. Changes include the newly created gallery as an additional presentation area, as well as private lounges that provide exhibitors and customers with a place to meet privately. In addition, the event in 2011 will also demonstrate the success of a new service tool known as Initiative Messeerfolg (Initiative for trade fair success) that's designed to help companies make their trade fair presence even more s uccessful. A large activity packet will be available to show what participation can provide for the exhibitors and help them make the most of their trade fair presence. The project management will make available additional offers free-of-charge. The initiative is being supported by Meplan GmbH, a subsidiary of Messe München (Munich Trade Fairs). 6-9 February 2011, www.ispo.com

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Not only is the name new, but the concept will also be completely redefined at the upcoming cpd signatures event. The Düsseldorf trade fair's management has turned a number of things upside down: In future it plans to fill the more modern halls 13 and 14 at the east entrance. One of the most striking changes is that exhibitors will no longer be able to set up their own booths. Instead, the booths will be replaced by uniform concept stands, which can be customised for the individual labels. 500 exhibitors are expected to take part with around 900 collections. Plans include four divisions. The first is Moods, which is for sportswear, young fashion and denim and lifestyle brands. The second, Styles includes Modern Woman collections mixed with design-oriented labels. The third, Superiors includes established designer premium collections, which had been stored at the gallery thus far. The fourth, Complements will present lifestyle brands and designer accessories. Among the new exhibitors are Holy Ghost, Mila Miyahara, Firetrap, H.I.S., E.Vil, Onefourteen, Madonna, Colins and Gang. "Given the location change and the modern booth setup concepts, signatures offers an exciting portfolio of international labels and designers repositioned in a contemporary environment," states Mirjam Dietz, Executive Director of Fashion at the Igedo Company. Additional services include a change in opening hours (Sunday/Monday 10.00 am to 7.00 pm, Tuesday 10.00 am to 4.00 pm), free entry for visitors within the industry and shuttle buses into the city. A number of short fashion shows for those interested in presenting their labels are scheduled to take place on Sunday and Monday. Established international design talents will be introduced as part of the style project. "As a centre for fashion, Düsseldorf requires a central international platform that's all-encompassing. We hear this in every discussion. Moreover, a trade show is still the best place to win over new customers from both Germany and abroad, as well as for information and communication," she says. 6-8 February 2011. www.cpd-signatures.com

For its re-launch CPD is relying on a new location with a modern stand construction.

For a better working climate ispovision is offering its exhibitors and trading partners more private space this year.

three-2-one.com

Meet us at fairs: Modefabriek Amsterdam CIFF Kopenhagen New York MRket Dallas Market Chicago Collective West Coast Trend Show Los Angeles Charlotte, Southern Men´s Market Las Vegas Market CPM Moskau Hot 1 Salzburg Hot 2 Salzburg Fashion Salzburg ÖSFA Salzburg Next Season Poznan

PANTS WE LOVE

Showrooms: Hamburg, München, Mönchengladbach, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Baden-Baden, Main-Taunus-Kreis, Nordhorn Worldwide: FR, CND, USA, NL, DK, SE, CH, NO, BE, AT, PL, RUS, IT, GR, IRL, J

www.alberto-pants.com

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Le Cuir

LEATHER IN FASHION

Leather and fur are the subject of Le Cuir à Paris. It’s a subject that is drawing more and more attention in the fashion world, as shown by the rise in the number of visitors to last September's edition. More than 11,000 visitors – 10 per cent more than in September 2009 – showed interest in the latest Le Cuir à Paris, which takes place during the Première Vision Pluriel. The newly streamlined schedule of Le Cuir à Paris, trimmed for the first time down to three days, was also warmly received. The concept will therefore be retained for the 20th edition of the Le Cuir à Paris, when more than 300 exhibitors will again show their collections. There will be some exciting new materials among them, such as the fine but robust kangaroo leather shown at the last trade show, or pirarucu, a fish skin processed with silver pigments. 8-10 February 2011, www.lecuiraparis.com

The increase in visitors during the past summer season sets a high standard for events this winter.

Copenhagen Fashion Week

PROVEN MIXTURE

With a mixture of progressive menswear and womenswear (CPH Vision), sportswear and urban wear (Terminal 2), high-quality fashion (Gallery) and more commercial collections (CIFF, CIFFKIDS), the Scandinavian trade fairs in Copenhagen are moving into the next phase. The number of events rose slightly in August due to the joint initiative with fashion shows, events and shuttles, as was also reflected in the visitor count. Between 25,000 and 30,000 visitors were on site in Copenhagen. The events in the coming season will again be showcased in the first week of February at varying times with ongoing shows. CPH Vision, Terminal 2, Gallery: 3-5 February 2011, CIFF: 3-6 February 2011. www.myfashionweek.dk, www.cphvision.com , www.ciff.dk, www.gallery.dk, www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

GDS

PREMIUM SEGMENT STRENGTHENED From MOC to MTC: An earlier date and more space for Munichfashion: Supremé, which is taking place this season for the second time, has also grown.

Munichfashion / Supremé

LOCATION CHANGE AND EXPANSION

MunichFashion WoMen has a new location and has moved its date up a week. In February 2011 the event will move from the MOC Events and Order Center to the MTC fashion centre at Taunusstrasse. There's enough room here for around 7,000 square metres of floor space, which if needed can be expanded to roughly 18,000 according to the event organiser. Some 800 women's and men's outerwear collections are expected. In February 2010 Munichfashion featured 750 collections that went to the ordering cycle. The labels and brands include Paul & Joe, CK Calvin Klein, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Kenzo and John Galliano. The Düsseldorf event Supremé, which is organised by Munichfashion, also remains successful. After its launch in the summer, it will go into the second round with an expanded product line. Some 200 collections are to be presented at KarlArnold-Platz. "Nearly all collections exhibited at the launch in summer will show their autumn/winter 2011/12 styles again at the Supremé," states Verena Malta, Project Manager of Supremé. She has also confirmed the inclusion of 140 collections, such as Blue Area, Nicola Hinrichs and Michalsky. Supremé Düsseldorf: 4-8 February 2011 Munichfashion Munich: 19-22 February 2011 www.munichfashion.de

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The Düsseldorf-based shoes and accessories trade fair GDS has changes its dates. In future it will start on a Wednesday and go through Friday. The trade fair expects some 780 exhibitors for the next event in March. "While interest on the part of exhibitors is high in all product divisions, demand is especially significant in the premium divisions as well as the young fashion segment," says GDS Director Kirstin Deutelmoser. There will be a designer's area for the first time in Hall 4, where select British design labels such as One True Saxon will be able to present their collections. These will be positioned right next to the Upper Style Zone and the White Cubes. Another new feature this season will be free entry for visitors who preregister online. 16-18 March 2011, www.gds-online.com, www.globalshoesonline.com

In 2011 GDS will take place for the first time from Monday to Friday.

OW N TRADE SH IO H S A F L A N INTERNATIO

1 1 0 2 Y R A 6–8 FEBRU

FASHION HALLS 13/14 ENTRANCE EAST EXHIBITION CENTRE DÜSSELDORF Held at the same time: CPD IN TIME ACCESSORIES at Fashion Hall 15.

EXCITING LABELS TO WATCH

Visit the Fashion Trade Show on Sunday/Monday: 10 am–7pm, Tuesday: 10am–4pm.

Winter 2011

Firenze Pitti Uomo Berlin Premium Paris Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next Milano White

www.0039italy.com

w w w. b l o o m - f a s h i o n . c o m

Premium Berlin CPD D채nemark CPH Vision muniCHfasHion.women

bmh-werbeagentur.de

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LONGVIEW.

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"Made in Italy" Has to Be Defended! Growth in times of crisis is nothing special for Diego Della Valle.The famous fashion entrepreneur from the central Italian region of Marches is the man behind the fabulously successful Tod's Group. Della Valle says that he consciously avoids risks and pursues a policy of gradual growth. His corporate strategy focuses on high-quality and production "made in Italy." Understatement is also a key component of the Tod's mystique. Della Valle would rather focus on his core concept of producing exquisite shoes than constantly chasing down new ideas. Interview: Thesy Kness-Bastaroli. Photos: Sakis Lalas, Tod’s Group

style in progress: You've always refused to be called a manufacturer of luxury goods. What's the difference between genuine luxury and top-quality goods such as Tod's?

Diego Della Valle: In our view luxury is about products that are made with exquisite craftsmanship. We're talking about products that are made of fine leather, have a certain style, but are also comfortable… products that match the lifestyles of the individuals who wear them… products that meet highly diverse demands. With Tod's I prefer not to talk about luxury, but about outstanding quality "made in Italy." We've always adhered to these two principles: "made in Italy" and top-quality brands. After 1950 – what do you see as genuine luxury?

In the '50s people used to wear their best finery only on Sundays. But habits have changed. Today luxury is not just about beautiful things but also about fine-quality objects with a certain style. Luxury has to guarantee our day-to-day comfort in all living situations: at work, while travelling and during recreational activities. Genuine luxury is for me about having time for my family and my friends. What brands do you like besides Tod's und Fay?

Diego Della Valle is one of Italy's most versatile – and successful – entrepreneurs: In addition to owning fashion brands Tod's, Fay, Hogan and Roger Vivier, he has a stake in Saks, in the newspaper Corriere della Sera, and is behind the launch of luxury railway company NTI in 2011.

There are many companies that I respect and that have done excellent work for decades, like Hermés and Chanel. These are brands that have a long history, culture and individuality... brands that have made a major contribution to style and fashion around the world, and are still a symbol of luxury today. I admire Oscar de la Renta and I like Ralph Lauren: His polo shirts are fashion icons – very similar to our D-Bag, which is also an icon in the leather goods sector. style in progress

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At the headquarters of Tod's Group in the Italian Marches region, Della Valle's sense of aethetics is mirrored in the clear lines and lightfilled rooms.

How did you come up with the name Tod's?

What they call a brand name in Italy is often merely a name without any underlying significance. Italian company founders often name their creations after themselves. Of course, there's a certain amount of vanity that comes into play here. My first experience with real marketing was in the '70s in the USA. It took me one-and-a-half years to find a suitable name â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one that was short, usable worldwide and easy to pronounce. It was the round "O" in Tod's that really sold me on the name. Developing a brand name is an exact science. We've managed to give the brand a noble tradition and a genuine brand philosophy. In your home region of Marches in central Italy, there are a wide range of prosperous medium-sized companies. What characterizes a typical entrepreneur in that part of the country?

The "Marchigiani" have both feet on the ground. But since we're on the Adriatic coast, we also gaze out to the world. What does genuine elegance mean to you?

I see elegance as something that we are practically born with, something that's further developed and refined over time to meet our individual demands. Tod's comstyle in progress

bines outstanding quality, comfort and elegance. What does a fashion company founder need to be successful?

A company founder needs a broad perspective and determination; most important of all, however, he needs visions. You have to pursue a realistic dream. In the fashion industry it's important to recognize social changes and changing needs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and to help make them a reality. Tod's has successfully ridden out the crisis of the past two years. In 2009 your company even paid a special dividend. How was that possible?

Tod's is a brand with an important history. At Tod's we are pursuing a long-term project. Even after 9/11, when a general crisis spread through the retail sector, it continued to grow. This is convincing proof that our company's strategy and philosophy are right on track thanks to our approach based on "made in Italy," outstanding quality and a certain understatement. And, last but not least, our customers have reacted positively to our corporate policy of not taking any risks. In the first nine months of 2010, our sales soared by nearly 10 per cent to 609 million euros. We achieved double-digit increases in both our EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortisation) and

net profits. Despite the financial crisis, our net profits have grown from 77 million euros in 2007 to 86 million in 2009, and we've experienced robust growth in 2010. Why didn't you transfer some of your production to other countries to reduce prices during the financial and retail crisis?

When it comes to genuine quality goods and brand products like ours, outsourcing the production to reduce prices is unthinkable. It's important to maintain quality. We're convinced that the higher costs of domestic production are worth paying, assuming that this production is done with the necessary craftsmanship and expertise. It's also important to convince customers that crises don't have a negative impact on the brand product. Customer confidence is one of the keys to success. At the height of the crisis in 2008, you "spoiled" your employees with a special bonus in addition to their regular pay. This was a unique event in Italian corporate history. Only Fiat partially followed your lead. What prompted you to take this step?

It's not only our duty but also an honour to preserve Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural heritage. We have skilled workers. I realized that it's impossible to get by with the wages that we pay. In that sense the extra pay was realpolitik. This helped me head off their possible exodus. I like to observe society and recognize the needs of the workers around me. This prompted me to introduce extra bonuses.

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What sales figures do you expect for 2011 and how do you intend to grow in the future?

We're convinced that the higher costs of domestic production are worth paying. Thanks to the current brisk orders, we expect to continue with this year's positive trend in 2011 – and accelerate growth. We intend to continue strengthening our position in Europe and North America, but are primarily targeting increased growth in the emerging Asian markets. In the future growth in India will be just as rapid as what we're seeing in China today. And the trend towards purchasing big brands is also gaining momentum in India.

the tradition's not lost. Our financial commitment to the Milan opera house La Scala and our short film on Tod's craftsmanship, which features scenes of the Scala ballet dancers, is an important step towards preserving our traditions. We could be better represented abroad by our politicians. I'd like to see more reforms from politicians in the future. Italy is trailing other EU countries when it comes to liberalization. This reduces our competitiveness. You used to design the successful models yourself. Do you still have time for that today?

Our models are now designed by our stylist team, headed by Derek Lam as Creative Director. We've made an excellent choice

Italy is losing its image abroad. Are politicians tarnishing "made in Italy?"

"Made in Italy" – in other words, production which is exclusively in Italy – has to be backed by appropriate legislation. But "made in Italy" is about more than craftsmanship in the production process – it's also about a lifestyle, culture and art. This is a treasure that has to be protected and preserved. Our craftsmanship is unique. It's based on years of tradition and on expertise that are only passed on from one generation to the next. Such knowledge needs to be safeguarded from other influences. The objective of all our projects is to ensure that Preserving craftsmanship "made in Italy" is extremely important to Diego Della Valle. No wonder then that it plays such a role in public relations.

with him. Indeed, his style perfectly matches our philosophy. I'm not personally involved in the creative process, but I see the models during the production phase. It's only then that I get involved and discuss with our stylist team possible changes or additions. This is an interactive process. You've also diversified with the Fay and Hogan brands. Are there new brands in the pipeline?

After we acquired the French brand Roger Vivier, we launched our own small clothing collection in 2005. Last summer we came out with our first collection of sunglasses. But our core business remains exquisite shoes. You recently increased your stake in the New York luxury department store Saks to 19 per cent, making you the largest shareholder at Saks. What advantages does the Tod's Group enjoy from having a share in Saks?

Saks is my personal investment and has basically nothing to do with the Tod's Group. Apparently the acquisition caused an international stir. My name is automatically associated with the Tod's brand and, in that sense, Tod's was also in the limelight. We see Saks as a strategic venture and not a speculative investment. We're not interested in selling our shares. I'm confident that this type of acquisition will enhance the image of "made in Italy" on the world market. With its 54 Saks department stores across the USA and nearly 10,000 employees, the New York group is also a suitable platform for Italian products such as Tod's. In what direction is the retail trade developing in your opinion? Is it moving in the direction of singlebrand stores, multi-brand stores, e-commerce or larger department stores like Saks?

We plan to expand our flagships and our own single-brand stores. It was only recently that we opened our first concept store dubbed "Tod's Casa". We want customers to feel at home in our stores, or at least have the feeling that they are in the home of a friend. In an age of growing globalization, we're looking to strike a healthy balance, now and in the future, between our DNA and the required amount of innovation. There are no two Tod's stores in the world with the same interior design, but all of them share the very same philosophy and the same style. This might include photographs by Elliott Erwitt, handwoven carpets and 20th-century designer furniture by famous designers like Parisi, Redaelli and Ulrich. We currently have 158 stores of our own and 72 franchised stores. In the past style in progress

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Diego Della Valle, the son of a small business owner, was born on 30 December 1953 near Ancona, in the Central Italian region of Marche. Instead of going into law as was his parents' wish, Della Valle studied the technology and tradition of shoe production. He was particularly interested in American marketing methods. At the age of 25, he took over the management of his parents' company, which had a dozen employees. Using the brand name Tod's, Della Valle in 2000 turned the small company into a listed group with 3000 employees and a capitalisation of 2 billion euros. Later he bought up Rogier Vivier, a French company with a long tradition, and has given it a new lease of life. He holds a five per cent share in the Milanese daily newspaper "Corriere della Sera", a 20 per cent share in New York's luxury department store Saks and is the owner of the Italian football club ACF Fiorentina. He is a shareholder of NTV, the new Italian luxury high-speed train. In the past couple of months, he has become one of the country's most important sponsors of culture. By financing the Milanese La Scala Opera House and providing 250 million euros for the restoration of the Coliseum, he intends to promote everything that's "made in Italy." Della Valle is currently married to his third wife architect Barbara Pistelli and is the father of two sons who play a significant role in the family-run company.

12 months, we've added a dozen stores to our own collection of outlets. How do you react to pirate copies of your products?

Due to the enormous amount of manual work that goes into Tod's products, combined with the exclusive selection of leathers that come from the world's leading tanneries and the countless details added by our craftsmen, it's incredibly difficult to copy our brand products. You have one of the most diverse companies in Italy. Aside from your own luxury empire Tod's Group, you have a stake in the Milan newspaper Corriere della Sera, are involved in sports through your ownership of the Fiorentina Football Club, and you're one of the founders of the new luxury high-speed railway company NTI. The luxury train is due to go into operation in 2011. What are your expectations?

I primarily expect the government to make concessions to entrepreneurs by introducing reforms, such as liberalizing rail traffic, and not to place obstacles in the way of private initiatives. NTI (Nuovo Trasporto Italiano), which I founded together with Ferrari CEO Luca di Montezemolo and Giovanni Sciaronne, will compete with state-owned railway Trenitalia from 2011 by offering high-speed rail service between major Italian cities. The company is targeting a market share of 20 per cent by 2015 and intends to transport 30,000 passengers a day. We plan to reach the break-even point in 2013. As the honorary president of the Fiorentina Football Club, you're also planning a new sports project dubbed "Cittadella dello Sport." We acquired the football club a few years ago for 200 million euros. After we got the style in progress

The typical carshoe from Tod's is an Italian icon in the meantime – even if people used to think Tod's was an American brand.

team back on a sound financial footing, we wanted to do something for young people. A football stadium alone is not enough. Our "Cittadella dello Sport" project is an initiative to help Fiorentina reduce the financial discrepancy between it and other major football clubs. Thanks to Cittadella, the club has been able to increase its competitiveness on an international level. Nonetheless, our initiatives are currently being held up by city officials in Florence. You're one of the greatest patrons of culture in Italy. What prompted you to sponsor the restoration of the Colosseum to the tune of 25 million euros? Patriotism?

I've always been convinced that anyone who can make a difference should get involved – especially in times like these. The Colosseum – that great Roman amphitheatre – belongs to the Italian people. Our company, Tod's, is an ambassador of "made in Italy" throughout the entire world. Every day we face the challenge of measuring up to the competition internationally. In view of this, it's not only our duty but also an honour to preserve Italy's cultural heritage. This will allow us to enhance the image and credibility of our country. We shall fully finance the restoration of the Colosseum.

Leather accessories from Tod's should never attain the cult status of "it-bags;" it's status enough to be timeless classics that go on for years.

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Short supply routes, sustainable production: Today's consumers want to know under what conditions luxury fashions have been produced.

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Made in Here

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Conscientious consumption is about more than just eco-labels and organic cotton. It also has to do with the desire to wear products that are produced using sustainable, fair and climate-friendly methods of production. It's a need that is sparking a renaissance for locally rooted brands – and generating new ideas. Text: Martina Müllner. Illustration: Esther Gebauer. Photos: Companies

verything from fish and flowers to fashions and footwear is imported from afar – and these long supply routes often leave conscientious consumers shaking their heads in disbelief. The alternative is to purchase regional products that don't have to be shipped halfway across the globe. In addition to becoming an increasingly common demand in the food retail trade, this trend is making waves in the fashion industry. Fashion retailers increasingly notice that consumers are reacting with growing scepticism to clothing made in China, Bangladesh, India, Cambodia and similar faraway countries – especially when it comes with a hefty price tag. "I observe an increasing number of consumers who are simply not prepared to pay 400 euros for a blouse sporting a label that says made in Vietnam," says retailer Kaspar Frauenschuh from Kitzbühel, Austria as he talks about his daily business. Prada is a prime example of how international luxury brands are facing an uphill battle. In an interview with the New York Times, the Italian designer went on the offensive: "Made in Italy – who cares? It's not a brand strength if you have to defend your work," says Ms. Prada, taking a deliberately provocative line. "Mine is a political statement and it comes from a personal appreciation

of originality," she says. "You have to embrace the world if you want to live now." The simultaneously launched PR campaign – highlighting alpaca sweaters from Peru, embroidery from India, kilts from Scotland, and denims from Japan with new labels – admittedly only shows the sunny side of global production. Experience has shown that shifting production to faraway countries rarely has anything to do with honouring the work of local craftsmen. Ethical Fashion – a Lofty Concept

It's not always easy to live up to noble intentions. U2 lead vocalist Bono and his wife Ali Hewson learned this the hard way last autumn when they suddenly realised that 70 per cent of the products for their politically correct Edun brand collection would have to be – gulp! – made in Asia. The problem? Poor quality. Production plants in African countries were reportedly not up to the task of manufacturing products capable of winning over purchasing agents and customers. Bogged down by large numbers of complaints and a dwindling number of retailers, the label drifted into the red in 2009. Shortly before this development, when Edun sold a 49 per cent stake in the brand to the LVMH Group, the CEO of the luxury goods conglomerate, Bernard Arnault, pitched this story to the media: "Our group is proud to contribute to the

Made in Italy – who cares? Miuccia Prada, quoted in the New York Times

operational development of Edun's activities, and (we are proud) of the local communities. LVMH is committed to advancing both the social and environmental aspects of sustainable development, which plays an intrinsic role in the development of our brands." A company like LVMH knows how to swiftly divert consumers' attention away from negative stories in the media: Immediately after the self-styled "made in Africa" brand confessed that it was transferring the bulk of its supply chain to China, Edun founders Bono and Hewson had a photo shoot with star photographer Annie Leibovitz, and the label embarked on a joint campaign with Louis Vuitton to celebrate Africa – featuring images of jawdroppingly beautiful African landscapes. This example clearly shows that naïve dogooding is the wrong way to give the production issue a long-term sustainable slant. style in progress

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For us, sustainability is all about keeping the supply routes for our production as short as possible Marco Lauer, Frauenschuh

Genuine Exclusivity: Quality Instead of Branding

Anyone interested in promoting regional production can't afford to ignore the harsh realities of the business world.

Consumers increasingly yearn for products with values that make sense – and procurement agents are naturally following suit: "There are retailers who respect these principles of their own accord, but many of them are also motivated by the demand generated by end consumers," Lauer argues. "I'm convinced that an increasing number of today's consumers can differentiate between genuine exclusivity – which is determined by limited

production, high quality and exquisite craftsmanship – and supposedly exclusive brand names. When it comes to collections like ours, this means that the focus is not on marketing, but on the efforts to create a product with workmanship, materials and quality that reveal why it ultimately costs as much as it does," he adds. Movements like the current LOHAS trend are helping to generate an increasing awareness of environmental and social issues among consumers. And yet it's also up to individual companies to highlight their manufacturing conditions as a key asset. A shining example is the Italian knitwear brand Szen, whose innovative technique for printing both sides of its products has generated a great deal of attention, and whose corporate communications focus on its experienced

Regional Production: Small Is Beautiful

Opting to keep production inside the EU is often the only reasonable alternative – above all for small labels. Shifting manufacturing to low-wage countries only pays off for companies that can order sufficiently large quantities. And yet there are examples of internationally successful labels whose decision to manufacture in Europe also reflects a commitment to important values. Luxury sportswear project Frauenschuh is a case in point. When prominent fashion retailer Kaspar Frauenschuh decided to create his own brand, he rapidly discovered how difficult it is these days to locate the necessary production facilities in his home country of Austria. It took months of research before he was able to launch his collection in 2002. Sales Director Marco Lauer explains: "The question of origin is primarily about having the best possible ecobalance for our products, and not about shouting it from the rooftops with advertising campaigns. This means that, in addition to manufacturing with family firms in Austria, we endeavour to purchase our materials in Austria, including felted Merino wool and loden cloth. For us, sustainability is all about keeping the supply routes for our production as short as possible. Many of today's consumers refuse to purchase articles that have been sent one to two times around the globe during the course of their manufacturing process before they end up in a store." style in progress

Quality that you can see and feel: For many manufacturers the excellent quality of the craftsmanship has become a trademark.

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Italiian Knitwear manufacturer Szen wows us with innovative print techniques that require sophisticated craftsmanship.

and enterprising production workers in Italy who pioneered this complicated process. Made in Italy as a seal of quality is no longer enough to convince consumers. Nicola Cinelli, owner of the four jacket brands Crust, Cby, Cby White and C Studio, has this to say: "There are production plants in Italy that are a long way away from offering good conditions for workers and the environment. As a company with high standards in both areas, we have to convey our quality criteria in a more sophisticated manner." Rising to the Challenge of Maintaining Regional Production

Markus Meindl, CEO of the shoe and leather goods manufacturer Lukas Meindl GmbH & Co. KG, shouldered a great deal of responsibility when he took over his parents' business. After all it's becoming more difficult to maintain in-house expertise, especially in his line of business. "We're clearly focusing on maintaining the ability

This is absurd. We can fly to the moon but we no longer can produce an exquisite bag in Europe. Michael Eckle, Lodo to develop innovations – but that only works if we have the people with the craftsmanship and technical expertise to make those innovations reality. There are fewer and fewer companies with mentors who pass on their knowledge. The result is obvious: If there's no in-house development, creativity eventually dries up." In Bavaria, style in progress

where Meindl is located, a large number of manufacturing firms have gone under. "Managers of large brands believed it was a good idea to keep forcing suppliers to lower their prices. But they ended up ruining everything that way because small firms were eventually squeezed out. I think this is clearly the wrong approach: I can only receive the raw materials and quality that ultimately guarantee a good product if I treat my leather suppliers well," he says. The current debate on transport distances, ecological footprints and CO2 comes at just the right time for his business: "If a jacket costs 19.90 euros in a discount retail shop, then that's possible because neither the air miles nor the trucking miles are accurately reflected in that price. We can only counteract this kind of mentality if we emphasize the value of goods manufactured in Bavaria, like deerskin jackets. I always invite my retailers and clients to drop by and visit us in Kirchanschöring and see the production facilities with their own eyes. We have an open doors policy – Anyone can pop round and see for themselves how we work. These days, many people have no idea how long it takes to manufacture a beautiful product – so it's up to us to raise their awareness and show how much work goes into making each article." Quality Requires Innovation and Young Talent

All established manufacturing giants in Western Europe are currently facing the challenge of how to motivate young people to learn and practice a trade. Even luxury brand Brunello Cuccinelli has a tough time these days recruiting young people in Italy to work in the country's knitting mills with their cottage industry character. Michael Eckle, the man behind the Lodo label, which is committed to creating value by

making its bags out of loden cloth, is intimately familiar with the problem: "Finding the right production resources is no simple matter. When I was looking for a manufacturing facility for our bags, I sometimes thought, 'This is absurd. We can fly to the moon but we no longer can produce an

I can only receive the raw materials and quality that ultimately guarantee a good product if I treat my leather suppliers well. Markus Meindl, Meindl Leather and Shoes

exquisite bag in Europe like the one from Lodo.'" Once again he's looking for other manufacturers interested in joining forces with him to ensure that a steady flow of orders for handcrafted products from the Austrian town of Pinggau. The production firm has already gone bankrupt twice – despite satisfied customers like Lodo and designer Lena Hoschek, whose mixture of dirndls and '40s femininity has received accolades from showbiz greats like Katy Perry. Not surprisingly, securing the manufacturing facilities is a key objective for companies like Frauenschuh, "Since workshops capable of producing such traditional craftsmanship have become so rare, our brand will make every effort to ensure a constant stream of orders over the long term. That's our contribution to the local economy."

www.brunellocucinelli.it, www.cinellistudio.it, www.edun.com, www.frauenschuh.com, www.lodo.at, www.lvmh.com, www.meindl-fashions.de, www.prada.com, www.szen.com

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Made in Here The Garment District

In the Middle of Manhattan

Near New York's Times Square is a neighbourhood where clothing used to be mass-produced. Today elaborate small series and new trends are created in the Garment District. Text: Petra Engelke. Photo: Interboro Partners

Behind the facades of New York's Garment District are the real fashion factories: Everything's here from design to production all the way to sales.

eohlee Teng likes things practical and functional. She says she makes fashion for travel enthusiasts, but the odyssey for the clothing itself doesn't begin until it's sold. Teng prefers to keep her production close at hand: In 1991 the New York designer moved her atelier to the middle of the Garment District. The ground floor of the district's buildings is filled with narrow shops, typically brimming with bolts of fabric. "The best way to evaluate fabrics is to look at them and touch them in daylight," she notes. On the lookout for the right structure or simply inspiration, she scours her favourite fabric stores in the district between 35th and 40th Streets and Sixth and Ninth Avenue. She could visit shops like this if she were located elsewhere, but Teng moved to the middle of the Garment District because she knows what goes on in the stories above the shops. There cuts and fabrics are created and specialists produce buttons, zippers and trim, work on preliminary patterns and carry out last-minute changes. "The advantage here is that I can directly control the finishing process," she says. "This saves a

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lot of time, money and fabric." Delivery times, transport costs, customs and production errors are additional reasons for her not to source from abroad. By living in the area she can personally inspect what workers are cutting, embroidering, pleating and piping. The neighbourhood is steeped in fashion tradition. At the beginning of the 20th century, roughly 95 per cent of clothing sold in the US came from the Garment District. The sweatshop era has long since passed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The workshops haven't been able to compete with prices from abroad for some time now. But they do outperform the competition in one area: They're faster and more flexible, and their staff is often more knowledgeable. Designers avoid long delivery times and can directly monitor and correct the results including any special requests. The Garment District is used by many today to develop and improve their designs. They order elaborate appliquĂŠs or newly designed pleated styles there and fill short-term repeat orders. Teng points out the opportunities for the emerging generation of designers. She says

that when designers receive a small order from a luxury department store based on sample pieces sewn in their own living rooms, it's not enough to have the items produced abroad. Here the designer can have a set of sizes created, buy fabric from a wholesaler and have the pattern sewn just around the corner. "The district is turning into an incubator for revolutionary fashion ideas," she adds. But the city of New York has been talking for some time about rezoning the Garment District so that factories in the upper stories can be transformed into expensive freehold flats. With the aid of prominent supporters such as Yeohlee Teng, Nanette Lepore, Anna Sui and Jason Wua, a number of organisations are working to counteract this development and maintain the neighbourhood as a fashion centre. Made in Midtown www.madeinmidtown.org A project of the Design Trust for Public Space and the Council of Fashion Designers in America (CFDA) www.designtrust.org, www.cfda.com

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Made in Here Meindl

Tradition Is Not an End in Itself Markus Meindl on the Opportunities and Challenges of Being Persistent. Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Meindl

t's the only way I know how!" That's Markus Meindl's short and honest answer to the question why he insists on production on site and demands uncompromising quality. This entrepreneurial leitmotif has grown organically and was initially based on entrepreneurial thinking but not on altruism, although altruism is currently so popular and featured in many press releases. The specialist for high-quality leatherwear can look back on a long history and rich tradition: a history that started in 1693 in KirchanschĂśring, Bavaria. Meindl regards this tradition as a duty and not as an end in itself. After all, the capital that has grown from this tradition is not an impressive annual figure on a label, but the immense expertise acquired over this time. He would class a move or outsourcing of production as nothing other than the destruction of the soul, but more importantly, of his company. Scarce Resources

What are the disadvantages of being so persistent? Initially none because Meindl prefers to use the term challenges. Every

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The premium consumer is not sensitive to prices, but is becoming increasingly sensitive to value for money. Anhonest product is worth the money. This is particularly true of the luxury segment.â&#x20AC;? Markus Meindl

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Today top-quality leather is no longer a matter of course. The businesses with the best reputation and years ofattention to public relations are ahead in the competition for the best quality.

company is faced with them. Meindl's biggest challenge is resources. On the one hand, qualified young workers, whom he needs in all fields of production as well as those working for his suppliers, are few and far between. There are hardly any tanners left who finish leather in a quality that satisfies his high standards. He says: "The future of handcraftsmanship, particularly in leather and textile production, is a true challenge. We're not the only ones affected. And we can't solve this problem by company training. First and foremost, we must work on increasing the societal acceptance of this profession." Meindl is of the opinion that we need resources, but above all the raw material leather. A rapid rise in prices has been caused by the explosion in global demand coupled with the discontinuation of an EU subsidy for Spanish sheep farmers and that has made it less attractive to breed sheep of an ideal size for producing leather. Once again the increase in know-how proves to be vital.

Without his long-standing, close contacts and the intense exchange with the world's most renowned suppliers, he wouldn't have a chance against luxury global corporations im procuring the best raw materials. "Even though," he notes with a broad grin, "they often don't choose the best, but go for the most lucrative." Honesty

A key challenge that ultimately affects the consumer is the price. Meindl notices this in particular with the positioning of his premium and uncompromisingly high-quality leather collection that he will present this season for the third time in Berlin at Bread & Butter, which offers the ideal platform with its L.O.C.K. area. He is very happy to see the switch from fake to genuine in the luxury segment. The rediscovery of quality, sustainability and the growing sensitivity to production conditions motivates him and confirms that he's on the right track: "The premium consumer is not sensitive to prices, but is becoming increasingly so to value for money. An honest product is worth the money. This is particularly true of the luxury segment." But couldn't Meindl sell his products for less? He's often confronted with such questions. "Others offered cheaper prices â&#x20AC;Ś" In this case, he'd have to rethink his philosophy - buy for less, move some of his production, leave out the details. In short, he'd actually have to offer a cheaper product, a product he'd no longer be proud of. "It wouldn't be any fun anymore. It's the only way I know how. And I don't want to do things differently."

www.meindl-fashions.de

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Canada Goose President and CEO Dani Reiss and European General Manager Joakim Südow.

Made in Here Canada Goose

'Respect Your Roots' In an interview with style in progress, Canada Goose President and CEO Dani Reiss and European General Manager Joakim Südow say that making their products in Canada has special value for the outdoor brand. Interview: Isabel Baier, Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Canada Goose

hat does "made in Canada" mean for Canada goose? And what impact does this have on your business? Dani Reiss: It's like a Swiss watch; you can't produce it in China. And that's precisely what it's all about: giving a product genuine value. Joakim Südow: It's important to respect your roots, especially as a provider of outerwear. Canada is a country with a reputation for pristine wilderness and extreme weather conditions. That's an aspect that plays into our hands. What responsibility do you have as an entrepreneur today? And what responsibility does the industry have in general? Dani Reiss: Doing the right thing is an inherent part of our corporate philosophy. It's also our marketing philosophy. We

don't go in for big advertising campaigns, but instead help out locally or take part in non-profit projects. What are the advantages of local production? Are there disadvantages? Dani Reiss: The big advantage is quality! By being in control of our own production we are constantly checking so we keep the level of quality desired. That way we can also demand, in all good conscience, a premium price for a premium product. Many of our sewers have been working for us for over 40 years and were hired by my grandfather. We're absolute specialists at what we do. But are there also disadvantages? Joakim Südow: Our capacity. Dani Reiss: The Canadian textile industry continues to shrink. There is currently no other fashion company that is growing and manufacturing here like we are. So an entire

Made in Canada – This label stands for the quality of products by outdoor brand Canada Goose.

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industry is slowly dying. As a result, it's becoming increasingly difficult to continue to meet our manufacturing needs on location. Joakim Südow: We want to keep our production in Canada, and we will keep it there because of the authenticity of the brand and the quality of production Do you see the back-to-local boom as a short-lived trend or does this issue have the potential of an established movement like slow food? In other words, is this a bona fide long-term outlook? Dani Reiss: This issue is definitely here to stay; it's not a trend. End consumers have changed their views and they now want something genuine. Furthermore, there are environmental motives and the fact that the crisis has not hit as hard as initially presumed. Joakim Südow: The transport aspect plays a large role. The fashion industry is a large shipper of goods. Local production has also become a matter of prestige. At the same time, it allows you to show that you are true to your roots. For us it's important and the right thing to do as a company. Dani Reiss:: We serve as a role model on this issue by showing Canadian companies that there is a future for local production. It's also, of course, a question of money and has to be backed by consumers' willingness to start paying appropriate prices for products again. Thank you for the interview!

Canada Goose was founded in 1957 by the grandfather of current CEO and President Dani Reiss. The brand is available in 43 countries. It is involved in projects like Polar Bears International and the resource centres that provide free material and fabric remnants to members of the indigenous communities of Canada.www.canada-goose.com

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Made in Here Aglini

Many Years Young How a traditional manufacturing company became a highly regarded favourite brand. or: The miracle of reinterpreted knowledge. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Aglini

arcello and Roberta Aglini have been manufacturing shirts and blouses for a long time. The charismatic founders of the Italian shirt and blouse label already had more than 40 years of experience under their belt when they decided to go public seven years ago. Previously, Aglini had "only" been a reliable source for well made products: one of many addresses in the sea of suppliers who had specialised in this area in Italy. Then they had a change of heart. The shirt experts realised that their family-run company could only survive into the next generation if they gave it an unmistakable identity. As a result, Marcello and Roberta applied the virtues in which they excel: flexibility and individuality. Till now, it's always been the buyer and not the designer who has the final word about the appearance of the collection. Another collar, different buttons, different coloured seams, another fabric, a different button panel, different cuffs? No problem at all. Aglini doesn't offer any off-the-peg garments and there are no standard models: The Luxury and Washed ranges offer faithful reinterpretations of old classics. Aglini has found and successfully filled a niche, particularly when it comes to its washed shirts and blouses. On-Site Production as a Trump Card

It goes without saying that you can't outsource such experimental and individual garments to China. Whoever produces each item differently depending on demand can't have a separate production location. And yet it's not necessity alone that makes

Individuality as a service: Fabric, cuffs, collars and much more can be chosen by the buyer.

Aglini keep its production sites. Marcello and Roberta Aglini love their craft - and its perfection is the basis for extraordinary products from a label that people love far beyond the Italian borders. Nevertheless, they're capable of revamping their traditional values with fresh ideas – from young employees, technicians, designers and product managers who still want to conquer the world. A harmonious balance between the ambition of the young people and the knowledge of the old provides an impressive result – right down to the very

last detail. It practically goes without saying that Europe's most renowned retailers welcomed the brand with open arms thanks to its unique character. And this was helped by the Made in Italy seal.

Aglini S.r.l. Via degli Artigiani 5, 52037 Sansepolcro/Italy, T 0039.0575.749822, commercialeitalia@aglini.com, www.aglini.com

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Made in Here New Level of Transparency

The Power of Provenance

The consumer landscape is changing. Discerning shoppers have opened their eyes to the murky business of manufacture and are beginning to look behind the Made in China label. Text: Alana Wallace

onsumers are demanding supply chain transparency and the clothing industry is responding, taking a long look at provenance from fibre to finished product. A groundbreaking new initiative, the Eco Index, is a software tool developed by more than 100 retailers and clothing brands to measure their environmental footprint. The comparative scoring system will be displayed at point of sale, enabling consumers to make more informed environmental choices on clothing, footwear and outdoor equipment. The brain-child of the European Outdoor Group, the Eco Index is already three years in the making and will be rolled out in January 2011. Some of the world's retail giants including Levi Strauss, Nike, Adidas, Timberland, Columbia Sportswear and Patagonia have collaborated on the project. "I think so many companies want to do the right thing environmentally," comments Jill Dumain, Director of Environmental Strategy at Patagonia. "We've been able to bring together the best minds and the best ideas and come up with an index that is really progressive. Partners along the supply chain can work towards the same goal and change within the industry will happen at a quicker rate."

Missing Luxury

Notably, no luxury brands have been involved in the process, possibly reluctant to be transparent about their supply chains. Designer brands are avoiding the provenance issue by instead promoting their heritage story.

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Louis Vuitton's recent advertising campaign for example, was banned in the UK for misleading customers by featuring craftsmen hand stitching the bags which are predominantly made using a sewing machine. Yves Saint Laurent is promoting new clothes cut from vintage cloth, while Dolce & Gabbana featured a video during its autumn/winter 2010/11 catwalk show of the 30 or more Italian tailors creating the collection at the atelier in Milan. With online tools such as Sourcemap, a source and supply chain publishing platform, consumers can share and discuss where and how products are made, taking the power away from brands that would rather keep us in the dark. British Engagement

UK retailer Marks & Spencer is leading the charge in reducing its environmental impact, aiming to be the world's most sustainable retailer by 2015. Earlier this year, M&S tried out QR (quick response) code technology on its packaging, a first in the UK. Featured on Food To Go juice bottles, the eight-week trial encouraged consumers to scan the code using their mobile phone camera, which directed them to a mobile site to access information about the product. Already used extensively in Japan, QR codes are windows to a world of information without increasing packaging or label size. Easy access to provenance information will soon be the norm and for retailers, revealing origins will be an essential part of gaining consumer trust and building a positive reputation.

For information & showroom: +49 (0) 2131 133 44 44 www.pantofoladoro.de

AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION 2011

Photos: Andreas Hechenberger. Styling: Michaela Hille, Roswitha Wieser. Hair/Make-up: Eva Svarovsky. Models: Nadine L./Tempo, Daniel H./Tempo, Daniela Rockenschaub, Herb Mear. The Dog: Romeo.

ojekt1:Layout 1 28.12.2010 13:59 Uhr Seite 1 Daniela: Lambskin jacket Meindl, Knitted jacket Meindl, Leather trousers Meindl, Gloves Meindl, Scarf van Laack, Hat Stetson. Herb: Lambskin jacket Meindl, Boots Meindl, Jeans PRPS, Scarf Inis Meรกin. Daniel: Lambskin jacket Meindl, Bag Meindl, Shirt Aglini, Knitted jacket G.R.P., Trousers Closed, Scarf Roda, Cap mfg. Nadine: Lambskin jacket Meindl, Skirt Meindl, Blouse Vintage, Knitted jacket Vintage, Knee socks Huber, Boots Red Wing Shoes. style in progress

Tradition follows Function

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ojekt1:Layout 1 28.12.2010 13:59 Seite Daniel: Lambskin jacket Meindl, BootsUhr Meindl, Knitted1jacket G.R.P., Shirt Aglini, Cap Stetson, Trousers Original Vintage Style. Nadine: Lambskin gilet Meindl, Baby lambskin blazer Meindl, Leather scarf Meindl, Boots Meindl, Blouse Aglini, Foulard Vintage, Knee socks Huber, Cap mfg, Ring Vintage.

Daniela: Lambskin coat Meindl, Deerskin jacket Meindl, Trousers Seven For All Mankind, Belt HTC, Scarf Roda, Boots Red Wing Shoes. Herb: Lambskin coat Meindl, Boots Meindl, Jeans jacket All Saints, Shirt Truzzi, Trousers Monocrom. style in progress

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Ittierre

Focusing on "Made in Italy"

Calm after the Storm: The IT fashion concern, which has been under administrative receivership for two years, sold its two subsidiaries Ittierre and Gianfranco Ferré at the end of 2010. Text: Thesy Kness Bastaroli. Photos: Ittierre

Accordind to the founder of Albisetti SpA, Dr. Antonio Bianchi (above right in photo with his two sons), Ittiere will be concentrating on fashion made in Italy in the future. In addition to the existing licenses for labels like Galliano (photo below), two new names will be added this year.

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fter delaying for several months, state administrators have come to a decision in favour of the fashion company Ittierre's sale by tender to Albisetti SpA from Como. Gianfranco Ferré, on the other hand, has been sold to the financial investor Prodos Capital Management for roughly 16 million euros. The South Korean concern Samsung has a holding in Prodos. Gianfranco Ferré, like Valentino (Private Equity Permira) and Gucci (French fashion group PPR), is one of the few Italian fashion companies to be sold to a foreign company. Industry Minister Paolo Romani gave gave his approval to the sale of both fashion companies. "Our first step will be to move part of our production, which is carried out abroad, back to Italy. Ittierre will focus purely on fashion 'made in Italy' in future," indicated Albisetti CEO Antonio Bianchi concerning the future strategy. Production in Romania and Croatia will presumably be relocated to Ittierre's headquarters in the south of Italy. Fashion experts also see the takeover as a positive step in light of the fact that Albisetti already has several years of experience with licences. Albisetti manufactures the lingerie line of the Florentine fashion house Roberto Cavalli, holds a licence for John

Galliano and makes fashion accessories for Alexander McQueen, Alviero Martini and Vivienne Westwood. Ittierre, in contrast, manufactures collections by Just Cavalli, C'N'C Costume National, Galliano, Ermanno Scervino, GF Ferré and Exté. Antonio Bianchi has promised the addition of two more licences at the start of 2011. Both companies are expected to continue operating independently, and a merger has not come into question at all. Ittierre expects to generate a sales volume of 180 million euros in 2010, as well as 60 million euros expected for Albisetti. Bianchi paid 23 million euros for Ittierre, and real estate is excluded from the acquisition. The liquidators would like to sell this in order to offset the several hundreds of millions of euros in estimated debt. The recapitalisation plan was also crucial for the sale by tender to Albisetti. CEO Bianchi aims to take on 570 of Ittierre's more than 800 employees. He sees considerable synergies between his high-quality beachwear and lingerie production and the Ittierre collections. Massimo Suppancig, who has successfully taken responsibility for the fates of Ittierre and the former IT subsidiary Malò in the last two years, will settle for the solution. "I'm happy to accompany Antonio Bianchi in his new acquisition. I see it as a positive sign that an independent manager from northern Italy is investing in a fashion company with a great deal of growth potential" he said of the deal. The manager from Trieste had already sold the IT subsidiary Malò to the real estate developer Evante in the summer of 2010, prior to Albisetti's takeover of Ittierre, for a price of 6 million euros.

www.ittierre.it

le coq sportif

AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION 2011

For information & showroom: +49 (0) 2131 133 44 44 www.lecoqsportif.de

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Cashmere

Not a Question of Where, but How

White gold is becoming even rarer: Experts are expecting price increases and further shortages of commodities. As a result a great deal of value is placed on honest, long-term co-operation with manufacturers. Text: Thesy Kness Bastaroli. Photos: Manufacturers

The colder the winter, the better the hair: even external influences like the weather can influence the cashmere goat business.

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n spite of the growing shortage of commodities and the general crisis in consumption, the sale of cashmere jumpers and jackets didn't suffer any losses whatsoever in the past year: quite the contrary. Dear Cashmere has confirmed extremely good winter business. Similar statements have come from Italy, where one of the industry's most important businesses, Loro Piana, is reporting growth rates in the double digits. "The current aggressive pricing in cashmere products is already producing a healthy selection. Customers are well aware that a genuine cashmere product has its price and tend to view cheap products with scepticism. Indication of origin isn't the most significant factor in the purchase decision. Priority instead is placed on the cost-performance ratio." The President of the Italian fashion association SMI (Sistema Moda Italiana) Michele Tronconi doesn't expect any significant changes in consumer behaviour due to the possible introduction of an indication of origin for textile and clothing products, or at least not for quality products and brands. "The critical factor is not where it's manufactured, but how. Business people who take a gamble and focus on cheap purchasing and manufacturing without any regard for their own interests end up paying the price," he explains. Cost-Performance Triumphs

More and more examples are popping up of companies which carry out their initial processing in China while maintaining environmental protection and human rights standards. And yet there are also still companies that use resources indiscriminately and gamble on cheap production, wherever that may be. However, an ever-increasing number of consumers seem to be concerned about this. Cashmere pullovers for 39 euros? Common sense says that can't be right. Signor Franco, the owner of the Stockhouse shop in the centre of Florence, confirms the trend towards the right cost-performance ratio:

"When it comes to cashmere, I currently buy only quality goods at higher and high prices. The cheap deals stay on the rail." Quality Has to Be Right

At the German cashmere company Allude, they believe that quality has to be right. "We've been active on the market for 18 years and are accepted around the globe.

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price trend. "Prices will rise by 30 per cent over the course of 2011." Given the expectation that the demand for products with reasonable prices will remain high, Allude is placing more of its focus on cashmere mixed with silk or merino. In countries like Italy and France, on the other hand, buyers are more open to the idea of blends than on the German market. Made in China Can Be More Ethically Correct

"We openly admit to being 'Made in China' because we work there with our own manufacturing structure," says Andreas Knezovic, Founder and Managing Director of FTC Cashmere. "Roughly 80 per cent of the top raw materials are acquired in China, so how

Roughly 80 per cent of the top raw materials are acquired in China, so how can final production there be objectionable or wrong?

This wouldn't be possible without Andreas Knezovic, FTC the right quality. At the same time can final production there be objectionable the fashion requirements must also be met," or wrong? What's bad for the market is says Allude designer Andrea Karg. uncultured manipulators who only aim to When asked what the company would do to market their cashmere products as cheaply pre-empt a potential shortage of cashmere, as possible in order to gain market share," she replies: "We were one of the first comhe says. Poor working conditions are not panies to control the entire production just limited to China. "It's frightening to chain. Our buyers purchase on site, but see that cheap Chinese workers are being from different suppliers. The goat yields are shipped to Prato as guest workers with different every year depending on the companies willing to do anything to acquire weather conditions. The colder the year in a label of 'Made in Italy.'" any given region, the better the hair is. An These then are the critical questions: Is proability to react flexibly is essential." Allude duction carried out with respect? Is there a doesn't anticipate any major fluctuations in manufacturing philosophy? How are the the demand for cashmere products. people treated? It's not a matter of where a "Cashmere is wonderful to wear, and anyproduct is made, but more a question of one who has experienced this type of quality personal ethics and especially respect for all will never go back." However, the company those involved in the production process. is forecasting considerable fluctuations in style in progress

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FTC Cashmere therefore intends to create transparency for its customers. "We assume that a FTC Cashmere customer has mature opinions and wants to know what he or she is buying as well as our philosophy. To this end we are distributing our workshop booklets, providing retail training and thus attempting to reach end consumers," Knezovic explains. The Struggle for Cashmere, a Scarce Resource

In addition to ethical and environmental issues, cashmere labels will face another challenge entirely in 2011: acquiring cashmere safely, as the rising global demand is

Business people who take a gamble and focus on cheap purchasing and manufacturing without any regard for their own interests end up paying the price. Michele Tronconi, President of the Italian fashion association SMI (Sistema Moda Italiana)

leading to a commodity shortage. Knezovic is convinced that the situation could even intensify if up-and-coming markets like China were suddenly to take an interest in products that they had previously only exported. FTC is working intensively on a solution to the problem of a potential commodity shortage. 80 per cent of the material comes from China confirms the company founder. The company has its own goat herds in China and can already cover 20 per cent of the demand itself. "At the moment it's looking like the commodity will see another price increase. Since the Chinese yuan is expected to appreciate in future, we expect considerable price adjustments at that time," he projects. Operating Economically and Respectfully

"Respect for a country's culture and territory" is the philosophy that northern Italian luxury cashmere company Loro Piana has

had for years in its co-operation with Chinese and Mongolian farmers. Loro Piana to date carries out the initial processing of cashmere hair in China, and then has the products shipped from Mongolia and China to Italy for final processing. "We've used the same suppliers for years and have always been willing to pay top price for the excellent conditions in which the herds are raised. But it's not just a question of price: Acting with dignity and observing human rights also take priority," states the head of the company Pier Luigi Loro Piana.

Prices will rise by 30 per cent over the course of 2011. Andrea Karg, Allude designer

Allude

FTC-Cashmere

www.ftc-cashmere.com,www.allude-cashmere.com, www.loropiana.com, www.dearcashmere.net, www.sistemamodaitalia.it

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Cashmere labels FTC, Allude and Loro Piana focus on both high quality and sustainable, ethical production structures.

Loro Piana

More bags at: www.george-gina-lucy.com

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Next please: Are jackets a flash-in-the-pan article to generate sales or just a functional piece of clothing?

k is r B g in r u s n E . . . e r u t u F e h t Sales in les Will the Boom in Jacket Sa

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t i t u o b a t b ou the retail trade's bread: Sporty o dconstitute Njackets and

butter during the winter. Down jackets and brands basking in the limelight have always played a key role in generating sales. But how long is it possible to ride this wave of success? style in progress interviewed a number of players in the fashion business. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: manufacturers, agencies

nyone who has an opportunity to visit the luxurious Austrian ski resort of Lech in early December will hardly believe their eyes: It's rare indeed to see such a high-end and deep selection of products, ranging from sporty to sophisticated. Ambros Strolz, owner of the first sporting goods store on the town square, is keenly aware of the importance of this commodity group. "Jackets are definitely important; they ensure brisk sales." But even beyond the confines of elite centres for winter tourism, jackets also play a key role in shaping the range of products carried by many stores. Munich, Cologne, Zurich, Berlin: Everywhere you look, jackets enjoy a prominent place in the product range. Is this a boom or merely our enhanced awareness of a trend that has always existed? Henrik Soller, owner of the Munich and Düsseldorf-based sales and distribution agency Komet & Helden, is responsible for a number of labels, including the Woolrich and Blauer USA brands. "I don't think that there's been a boom in jackets over the past few seasons," he says. "There's merely a demand that's being met there. But there's no doubt that the retail trade is clearly focusing on only a limited number of jacket companies. I think that the demand for jackets has evolved similarly to the demand for premium denim. They've become essential elements that are simply part of the reality of our clothing culture." Thorsten Stiebing, CEO of the Italian jacket specialist Mabrun, would also prefer not to talk about a boom over the past few years. "From my

perspective, there was no boom. Our clothing culture has changed. Even in Italian centres of business like Milan, you can see that men dress more casually. Wearing slacks or jeans and a jacket, you just feel lighter and more in tune with the times. Nobody these days feels like squeezing themselves into an outfit – and this is also reflected in the increasing popularity of sporty jackets." Variety Is the Key

When it comes to jackets as a commodity group, variety is the key to ensuring brisk sales. "It's essential for the jackets to be different from the previous season," says Strolz. "Then the same brand is purchased two or three years in row. After all end customers certainly don't want to switch jacket brands every season. Men in particular are very loyal customers once they're sold on a brand." This presents a challenge for creative directors. Matthias Schwarte, whose Munichbased agency's portfolio includes the hot new Parajumpers brand, is convinced that there are very few designers able to find the perfect balance required for ongoing renewal: "Introducing something new doesn't mean that the brand can be allowed to lose its recognition factor. Very few designers manage to achieve this, however. With Parajumpers we're blessed with a designer who can rely on a lifelong wealth of experience. Massimo Rossetti draws his inspiration from a vast archive, a great deal of research and over 30 years in the business. This is essential because it allows the collection to be innovative and, at the same time, remain recog-

ed The demand is focusof er mb nu on a limited jacket manufacturers. & Helden Henrik Soller, owner of Komet

nisable." Strolz sums up what many people in the industry think: "When it comes to individual brands, many people ask themselves when this upswing will end. But we believe in the fashion designers' creativity and their ability to continually captivate customers with jackets. Still the question naturally remains: When is the market saturated? And once it's saturated, three new jacket models won't be enough – then something new will have to be created on a broad basis." Moving Beyond the Traditional Nylon Down Jacket

Stiebing says: "It's important to explore new fashion themes. In the area of womenswear, we've already noticed a clear trend towards quality wools over the past season, and among the men there's been a return to style in progress

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cleaner fashions, or pulito, as the Italians say. In addition longer jackets and coats are making a big comeback." Schwarte adds: "When it comes to the successful trend themes of the 2010 autumn/winter season, we should definitely mention lambskin for women as well as men. Not your traditional lambskin jackets, but out-of-the-ordinary models. For the current sales season, I'm looking forward to the matt, washed qualities, especially in cotton." It's a trend that has already been reflected in sales, says Strolz: "Leather, lambskin and wool are important themes that add a bit of fashion variety and, following the dominance of colourful nylon and down jackets, pave the way for necessary changes." Nobody dares to predict the demise of the down jacket, however. Nicola Cinelli, owner of the four

Our clothing culture ing, has changed. Thorsten Stieb CEO Mabrun

jacket brands Crust, Cby, Cby white and C Studio, is convinced that down is not about to disappear: "Down jackets will continue to generate sales. But both retailers and consumers increasingly want a new interpretation of this look. That's why we use cotton, jersey and wool – but all of these products will never entirely replace nylon. After all, nylon and down just belong together, don't they?" Yes, beyond a doubt – but many consumers have had their fill of this style. Marcus Bässler from the Düsseldorf sales agency Bässler says: "I'm sure that sporty nylon and down jackets will lose importance as a trend theme. Today's fashions increasingly rely on materials like leather and wool. We are seeing a growing tendency towards washed cotton and waxed fabrics. Nylon is a matter of practicality."

world, which is particularly gratifying for retailers because it also gives them good sales arguments to justify the price." Stiebig couldn't agree more: "The roots of our brand, Mabrun, can be traced back to leather clothing. These days a large proportion of the collection consists of textiles, but the demand for leather and lambskin over the past few seasons has shown us that we're also seen as highly competent on our home turf. Lambskin is a great material for retailers. Consumers intuitively recognise as with leather the value of top-quality." Bässler raises other considerations: "Trends never remain isolated for long these days. A large number of new manufacturers quickly jump on the bandwagon for a given trend theme and the market becomes more complex. Due to this very few market leaders have recently emerged. This puts retailers in a difficult situation that I don't envy," he says. He then points to the advantages of working with certain agencies: "They can purchase both nylon and leather from many agencies in Germany. In addition to basic requirements such as a strong product, competitive prices and friendly, quick service, we rely in our agency on uniqueness, recognition and the story of the brand such as Giorgio Brato. The values that we stand for as an agency also have to match this. It's all about having a good feeling and a good relationship," he adds. So Much to Choose From

Strolz talks about what he has learned from his day-to-day business: "Procurement agents are in a tough spot because there are so many jackets to choose from. It's a competitive field with everything from specialists to full-range suppliers who know how to produce impressive-looking jackets and coats. You more often find yourself in a position of having to turn down new collections than taking on a new brand. But when there's a brand that comes through with genuine innovations, you still add them to your selection."

Understanding Quality: Why Leather's Making a Comeback

According to Strolz, "Leather's doing quite well. Innovations like vintage effects and articles that are truly different are livening up the business. The quality is out of this style in progress

Trends never remainse isolated for long the days. Agency owner Marcus Bässler

When is the market r saturated? Ambros Strolz, owne Sporthaus Strolz

Schwarte has this to add: "Many retailers are open to the ever-changing variety that you find in a collection. They also realise that we make our mark with new product groups and their orders reflect not just the depth but also the breadth of the product line. Of course there are also those only interested in carrying the supposed bestsellers from the previous season. We as a brand have to consider how intensively we can work with these retailers since it's important to us that our innovations be seen on POS." Woolrich representative Soller says: "I wish retailers would approach the innovations of a brand with a more neutral attitude. Here's a current example: Woolrich, which has achieved astonishing successes in the USA with its clothing collection. It would be nice if retailers here in Germany were open-minded enough to take a close look at the clothing collection and not say right from the start: I don't need that, I'll just take the Arctic Parka." The opinion of the sales and distribution professionals is clear: Dealers who grow with a brand also benefit from it much longer – and don't run the risk of helping to shovel the grave of a one-hit wonder. Enough Is Enough: No More Flash in the Pan

Many representatives and manufacturers are primarily worried about being celebrated as a hyped-up flash in the pan that is subsequently ejected from the product range as rapidly as it arrived. We're all sadly familiar with the groaning prompted by the very mention of certain brands or models: "Who still needs that?" Schwarte says: "Anyone who consciously limits his sales is doing himself a favour. A high level of desirability can be maintained and this allows retailers to keep up their prices so that agencies and manufacturers can earn money as well. And this is true not just today, but also tomorrow." Relatively small and new players on the jacket market have a great deal of respect for the dangers of blasting off too fast. Jacket manufacturer Cinelli states: "We still have a

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great deal of potential on the German-speaking market. Nevertheless, it's important for me that my agents steer our desired growth with great care. Particularly now, at the very beginning, it's absolutely essential that stores with an eye for quality take on our range of products." In the retail trade it's particularly difficult not to go for the quick money. Says Strolz: "The hype of individual brands was impressive over the last few years – It was amazing how quickly demand and sales skyrocketed. An excessive demand is hard for both sides: If a brand intends to survive the hype, it has to limit itself and its retailers – and neither side enjoys turning down sales." But the industry insiders emphasize that times have changed. "Things are no longer the way they were 10 years ago," says Cinelli. "You can no longer hope that the brand will go through the roof unless you make a special effort. If you want to expand into a market,

Anyone who consciously limits his sales is r. doing himself a favou Agency owner Matthias Schwarte

you have to be prepared to make investments. This holds true for PR, advertisements and trade fair booths – without a financial commitment, it won't fly – at least not anymore." It's an observation that is

Mabrun

gh No brand goes throukin the roof without ma Cinellig an effort. Nicola Cinelli, owner Studio

shared by Bässler: "For the past one-and-ahalf years, we haven't seen a brand come out of the blue and immediately take off. Successfully positioning a product as a brand entails more these days than hard work building up sales. On top of that, I believe that the days of these hysterics are basically over and the market is well covered."

Wool, nylon or authentic look in parkas – Which way is fashion going?

Blauer USA

Crust Cinelli

Woolrich

Parajumpers

www.agentur-baessler.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de, www.blauer.it, www.cinellistudio.it, www.giorgiobrato.it, www.hetrego.it, www.kometundhelden.de, www.mabrun.com, www.prarjumpers.it, www.strolz.at, www.woolrich.com

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO / January 11th - 14th 2011 FLORENCE / Fortezza da Basso Central hall / Lower floor / Booth O/8 PREMIUM / January 19th - 21th 2011 BERLIN / Booth H3 G13

www.mabrun.com

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A refreshing change for waxed jacket specialists: Barbour also focuses on extra lightweight materials and new techniques such as welded seams.

The luxury capsule collection Barbour Gold Label is inspired by classic designs and materials in combination with Alice Temberley's characteristic glamour.

Current themes in the Heritage Collection design call upon classic Barbour elements.

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Barbour

International Revival T

he brand embodies the British lifestyle like no other. Founded by John Barbour in the English port town of South Shields in 1894, the company initially supplied seamen and dock workers with workwear. The first Barbour catalogue was published in 1908 and included jackets, clothing, shoes and an oilskin suit for motorcyclists. The product range was expanded in the '30s to include motorcycle wear, a segment in which Barbour remained the market leader into the '60s.

Old and New

In the '70s and '80s, the brand's jackets were designed to meet the needs of fishermen, hunters and equestrians. Unmistakable classics were created with models such as Bedale and Beaufort. To this day the family-owned company, now in its fourth generation, manufactures waxed cotton jackets at its headquarters in South Shields and has received Royal Warrants from Her Majesty the Queen, The Duke of Edinburgh and The Prince of Wales for waterproof and protective clothing. Some 3,000 jackets are produced weekly on five production lines by about 120 employees. As a full-range provider, Barbour continues to expand its women's and men's collections with outerwear, shoes and accessories such as bags. The company long ago went beyond offering jackets made only of waxed cotton. It now sells jackets made of lightweight, water-repellent, and breathable synthetic fibres tailored to the needs of its metropolitan customers. Classics and Highlights

The structure of the collections has changed in the last few seasons. In addition to the timeless Classic and Sporting collections, there are also the Heritage and Contemporary collections. With narrower cuts and the latest fashion details, the latter are intended for younger customers. Together with British designer Alice Temperley, the exclusive womenswear line Gold label will be launched for A/W 2011. One particular highlight for men is the sixth limited edition To Ki To

Barbour's production of concise, tartan plaid-lined waxed jackets in the north of England dates back to 1894. Buyers at high-end fashion shops across Europe are increasingly inspired by the company, which boasts Royal Warrants with its reinterpreted classics and exclusive designer editions. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Barbour

collection, a joint project with Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida and the Beacon Range. This includes elaborate models based on design templates from the brand's collection of historical originals that were inspired by military, hunting and motorsport history. These are available in select high-end stores in Europe, the U.S. and Japan. Ten years ago, it seemed unimaginable that a supplier of classic British country wear could inspire a young, urban target group. Renewed consumer consciousness regarding tradition and value is probably responsible for the heightened attention from the market. In addition Barbour has tried hard to reach a new group of customers by offering refreshing, up to date products. In July 2010 Markus Sasek took over as the new Retail Manager at Barbour Europe and is responsible for new projects. In Germany the brand has already opened its own stores in Hamburg, Berlin and Cologne as well as on Sylt. In his newly created position as Junior Account Manager, Christoph Wilm handles customer support for Heritage Fashion and Beacon Range at Barbour. These collections are sold separately. Launches will take place at the Pitti Uomo and Bread & Butter trade fairs.

Produced almost identically to the original design, a nylon version of the jacket is now available in several different colours for both men and women. As shown on the cover of the book "40 Summers Ago" by Rin Tanaka and Sean Kelly, legendary stunt rider Bud Ekins and his friend Steve McQueen were wearing the International in 1964. A green waxed cotton reproduction in 8 oz-quality with the patina of a vintage jacket has been launched for the anniversary. Only 75 of these distressed jackets are available in each country for the 75th anniversary.

A Jacket for Everyone

Celebrating its 75th anniversary, the Barbour International motocycle jacket is one of the top styles worn at the moment by motorcycle enthusiasts such as Ewan McGregor and Viscount David Linley, as well as by fashionistas like Alexa Chung, Peaches Geldof and Coco Sumner. Duncan Barbour, the grandson of the company's founder and himself a passionate motorcyclist, designed the first International range especially for the International Six Day Trials race in 1936. The jacket first obtained its characteristic slanted left-hand chest pocket in 1951, and the golden logo embroidery was added in the '80s.

The 75th anniversary distressed jacket has four front and two side hip pockets, a waist belt and tartan lining.

J Barbour & Sons Ltd. Simonside. South Shields,Tyne & Wear, NE34 9PD/UK, T 0044.191.4554444, info@barbour.com, www.barbour.com

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Dolomite

From the Mountains

As the second-oldest outdoor label in the world, Dolomite has a rich history and that's useful for scoring with a fashionable jacket line. Text: Martina MĂźllner. Photos: Dolomite

ounded in 1897 the Italian label Dolomite is one of the oldest outdoor labels in the world. Its long past has seen some great moments in the history of mountain climbing, for example as an outfitter and financier for the first ascent up K2 in 1954. The label has been traded under the umbrella of the Tecnica Group since 1998. Four years ago the group set a goal of expanding its product line beyond climbing and ski boots plus outdoor accessories to also include textile. It started with a concentrated collection of 40 pieces each for men and women. Thomas Regenbogen, Head of Textile Sales

and Marketing at Lowa Sportschuhe GmbH, the textile division of the Tecnica Group, is responsible for Dolomite: "We started off with a plan to sell the collection via sports retail, but we quickly realised that our products are too fashionable and not functional enough for that." Change in Strategy: From Sport to Fashion

"Two years ago we decided to change our strategy and put fashion agencies in charge of sales. Today 90 per cent of our sales are to retailers who have nothing to do with sport. These include well-known names like

P&C and Anson's as well as retailers from the Masculin Group," he says. The retailers were very glad to take on the label. "The best feedback that we get is from buyers who say: 'You're the mountain label and we believe what you say as a brand.'" Some 150 retail partners have been won over in Germany, as well as 50 in Austria. The Scandinavian exporting countries are also showing a good trend. According to Regenbogen: "The growth target for the D-A-CH region is to increase by 50 per cent although we have to remember that growth only makes sense with the right partners. If it wants to expand, a label like Dolomite doesn't necessarily have to be represented in more regions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Quality is also important. As Sales Manager my challenge now is to curb the focus only on sales volume and to make sure that the long-term brand strategy is reflected in practice." Willingness to Invest

Thomas Regenbogen heads the Sales and Marketing department of Lowa's textile division, of which Dolomite is also a part.

Fitz Roy and Karakorum, the classics from the Dolomite collection.

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If retail has particularly contributed to rapidly establishing the brand, it's now up to Dolomite: "By using POS measures or adverts aimed at the end consumer, we want to do our part to keep the sell-through rates as high as they are." He certainly has the full attention of Dolomite's management team. "As a sports shoe manufacturer, Lowa is ideal for this type of long-term strategy. The company doesn't think in the short-term as is often the case in the fashion industry today."

Dolomite manufactures climbing and ski boots, accessories plus a collection of clothing for the last four years. The company, located in Giavera del Montello, Treviso, Italy, is part of the Tecnica Group, which also comprises Think Pink, Nordica, Blizzard and Lowa. Lowa's textile segment takes care of the the collection's sales and marketing. Lowa Sportschuhe GmbH. Thomas Regenbogen, T 0049.8137.999568, dolomite@lowa.de, www.dolomite.it

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add

"Balance between Price and Performance Is Necessary"

What makes a jacket label successful? Maurizio Cittone, owner of the Italian label add, answers this question in a talk with style in progress and introduces new projects. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: add

Maurizio Cittone is the owner of the add label, founded 11 years ago, and Comei & Co. The parent company Comei & Co is responsible for production, marketing and global sales and distribution. add debuted its own bag collection in 2011 and has moved to new headquarters in Milan's Navigli district. www.adddown.it

here does the success of the label add lie? Maurizio Cittone: Success never depends on just one factor. Our style as well as our typical colour palette certainly contribute to it, but on a practical side, it's primarily service. Another factor is choosing the right partners. We're very happy with representatives of our label, such as Elke Wirichs in Germany and Andreas Schmied from free mountain in Austria. What's your secret concerning style? When we started in 2000 down jackets were practical, but not fashionable, let alone feminine. Anyone wearing them always looked a bit like the Michelin Man, which wasn't exactly flattering to the female body. We eliminated this problem by using only the down feathers and not the quill. This made it possible to make very light jackets cut close to the body. The cost/performance ratio in particular is valued by your retail partners. We were able to offer this from the start due to the fact that the parent company Comei & Co has been operating its own plants in China for 30 years and that allows not only for good prices, but also particularly good quality. I believe the times of astronomical prices are over, even today. The feeling of having bought the right product at the right price is important now. Customers – regardless of whether they're retailers or end consumers – are changing significantly. They still make decisions regarding aesthetics and quality, but the price has to leave them feeling good. What kinds of things did add have to optimise in order to score points on all export markets, above all in the German-speaking countries? Firstly reliability in delivery. Another factor is being a good contact partner for all questions and issues. But here there has to be a balance. Of course you could offer to ship individual orders to some retailer somewhere in the world in a day, but that would cause the price to rise overall, so I don't see the purpose for it. In terms of reordering in the current season, we believe that every one of our numerous export markets should enjoy the same conditions. Anything I offer in Germany has to be available in the US and even Kazakhstan. Let's talk about the new projects… add is now eleven years old, and we're now trying to carry the company's spirit over to other product groups. For example, we designed a bag collection together with the designer Andrea Incontri that stands out due to its special range of functions. All bags can be folded together. The project has been branded as add, but should also work independently. style in progress

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Creative duo: Christian and Michael head the Sieger company with headquarters in Harkotten Castle.

Sieger

Winning Style, Charm and Colour

What do modern gentlemen wear? Brothers Christian and Michael Sieger have found the answer to this question. They produce luxurious men's outerwear with bold colours and a touch of Italian flair. Text: Ina Kรถhler. Photos: Sieger

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he Sieger brothers are designers by trade. This is apparent as soon as you set foot in their headquarters at Harkotten Castle located in Sassenberg, Germany. The furnishings of the castle's garden hall have been designed by Sieger as well as the fine porcelain in which the espresso is served. Born in 1965, Christian Sieger is responsible for marketing, sales & distribution and finances, while his brother, younger by three years, is the creative head of the family company. But as Michael Sieger points out, "This division is not set in stone. My brother is also quite involved in the creative processes." The two have long since made a reputation for themselves in the design world with their projects together with various mid-sized companies. With colourful service sets for Fürstenberg porcelain manufacturers, glasses for Ritzenhoff or high-quality bathroom design for Dornbracht and Alape, the Siegers are considered highly talented designers and their products have garnered numerous awards. "We see ourselves not as artists but as partners of industry," explains Christian.

Klassisch, farbenfroh und in hoher Qualität: die HAKA von Sieger.

Colourful classics with unsurpassed quality: men's outerwear from Sieger.

responsible not only for the product but the complete brand image, up to and including how it is presented at the POS. They even conduct photo shoots and create the elaborate lookbooks in their own agency.

We see ourselves not as artists but as partners of industry. Christian Sieger

All these projects have one thing in common: meticulous attention to detail and a predilection for luxury items, many of which are still made with traditional hand craftsmanship. "You can succeed internationally with German products and highquality design," continues Michael. They also applied this principle to their top-quality menswear line launched in 2005. The collection started with accessories, followed later by suits. Italy as a Model

"We both have a relatively classic take on men's apparel," he says. "But I discovered Italian fashion for myself many years ago." The two designers were exposed to Italian design from a very young age; in fact it was their father Dieter who laid the foundation for their design agency. His friendships with designers from the Studio Alchimia and Memphis era such as Alessandro Mendini and Ettore Sottsass left their mark in the form of furniture, sculptures and a pavilion in the castle garden – traces of which are still visible today. A penchant for bold colours is also evident in the design language of the

Awareness of Style and Quality

Fine porcelain, elegant crystal: Sieger also stands for luxurious product design.

Siegers. Every collection features a special colour concept. The never-out-of-stock programme of the Gentlemen's Colour Collection offers ties in 36 shades, and every colour has its own icon sewn onto the back of the tie. The fabric for the suits also comes from Italy, from top producers including Loro Piana, Zegna and Vitale Barberis Canonico. The first collections were tested in Markus Brüning's shop Hasardeur in Münster, which has remained one of their closest customers. Production mostly takes place in Germany: Regent makes the suits, while a Krefeld tie manufacturer sews the silk ties. Christian and Michael Sieger are

"Luxury, culture, quality and style are part of our core brand values," says Michael. "Our understanding of quality goes beyond mere product quality," adds Christian. "It's about long-lasting things that don't go out of style after one season." This approach has found favour around the world. There’s been a single-brand store in China for four years now, and a 110 square metre concept store opened in Beijing in November 2010, featuring fashion and other design products bearing the brothers' signature style. Their ultimate aim is to make luxury "made in Germany" successful internationally. A solid sense of design: At the prestigious company headquarters in Harkotten Castle, the team headed by Christian and Michael Sieger develops products and marketing strategies for manufacturers such as Dornbracht, Fürstenberg and Ritzenhoff. A complete men's outerwear collection has been available since 2008, consisting of luxurious suits and accessories such as ties, scarves, ascots, belts and cufflinks. The range is available at retailers including Hasardeur in Münster, KaDeWe in Berlin, Loden-Frey, Hirmer and Burger in Zurich. The products are also sold in the Benelux countries, the UK, the US, South Korea, Japan and China. www.sieger-design.com

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.CONCEPT

The hand-bound charity notebooks come in three sizes and are embroidered with various motifs.

RETAIL IS GOLDENPaschbeck Fummel + Kram

Profitable Products from Start to Finish

When colourful embroidery is applied to hand-woven fabrics in India, exquisite pieces are produced that delight customers and make the world a little more beautiful. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photos: Paschbeck Fummel + Kram

hey can still be found: products that radiate a zest for life and an optimistic outlook. Notebooks from Paschbeck Fummel + Kram are precisely that kind of product. Colourfully embroidered and bound by hand, the little booklets bring a smile to faces on both sides of the globe.

Designer without Borders

"From the very start I knew that I wanted to do my work to contribute to the common good. I'm no doctor, but I have found a way to contribute something as a fashion designer." When Angelika Paschbeck speaks you can hear the enthusiasm in her voice. Her travels through India were the source of inspiration for what she has now achieved: the creation of a complete collection consisting of imaginatively embroidered scarves, shirts, dresses and bags, handmade under fair conditions. During peak periods, more than 100 experts at three Indian factories weave, dye and embroider fabrics for Paschbeck. Staff member Celina BĂśning, an important part of the four-member team, spends about six months of the year on-location, developing new embroidery techniques, working out the details of the collections and supervising production. Her relationships with the workers are close and personal. This results in extraordinary one-of-a-kind pieces that are handcrafted to perfection â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with techniques ranging from those of traditional haute couture to modern, three-dimensional threadwork.

I'm no doctor, but I have found a way to contribute something as a fashion designer. Angelika Paschbeck

Elaborate embroidery techniques and handwoven fabric are the trademark of the lovingly crafted complete collection.

100% Charity

for one month, along with health care and education. This is made possible by the Tomorrow's Foundation, with which Angelika Paschbeck works closely. "The founders began offering children breakfast on the roof of a hospital when they in return took part in an hour of schooling. This idea has now grown into an intelligent network that today is celebrating its 20th anniversary." That's a success story the designer herself takes pleasure in. Five per cent of the sales from the Paschbeck Fummel + Kram online shop also go to the Tomorrow's Foundation. This way, every purchase helps add one more smile to our world.

But getting back to the notebooks, the key item at Paschbeck that goes 100 per cent to charity: "I require the dealers to keep the margins low. After all, earning a profit is not the main point," Paschbeck stresses. The purchase of one hand-bound and -embroidered notebook provides the means of survival for a homeless child in India

The sale of Fumme+Kram notebooks in cooperation with Tomorrow's Foundation ensures the education and health care of Indian street children.

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Paschbeck Fummel + Kram Ligsalzstrasse 37 RGB, 80339 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.50028233, info@fummelundkram.com www.fummelundkram.com www.tomorrowsfoundation.org

COLLECTION JUNGLE

DEUTSCHLAND OTO GmbH Sven Schilling T: +49 211 336 800 2

ÖSTERREICH Welcome to my Room Theresa Steinbacher T: +43 662 243 204

WWW.FRIENDLY-HUNTING.COM

SCHWEIZ Room with a View Mirjam Fuchs T: +41 439 609 811

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.OPINION

From left to right: Stephen Huber (Publisher and Editor-in-Chief style in progress), Christian Obojes (Managing Director room with a view, Salzburg), Uwe Maier (Managing Director Bungalow, Stuttgart), Til Nadler (Managing Director Closed, Hamburg) and Marcus Kossendey (CEO Wรถhrl, Nuremberg).

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Every Fast Seller Eventually Becomes a Slow Seller

ROUNDTABLE DISCUSSION

'If you reduce your prices too early, your expenses will eat up your profits.' A group of experts recently met to discuss this statement and the current selling seasons in the fashion industry. The good news is that the timing of these intervals can be improved. The bad news: only with enormous discipline. Discussion: Stephan Huber. Photos: Adrian Bela Raba style in progress

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.OPINION

'Every Fast Seller Eventually Becomes a Slow Seller'

Stephan Huber, Publisher and Editor-inChief of style in progress: Mr. Kossendey,

for years now stores have been putting their summer clothing on sale even before ice cream parlours have opened their doors for business, and the prices of down jackets are being slashed before the first snow has even fallen. Have retailers made their customers into bargain hunters? Marcus Kossendey, CEO Wöhrl, Nuremberg: That sounds straightforward enough, but it's actually a mixture of diverse factors. It all begins with suppliers who want to deliver their products at a specific time. Then we have the retailers who are always looking to see where the customers spend their first euro. After all, customers can only spend their money once. The third factor is an element that, as retailers, we're actually not allowed to talk about, but one that unfortunately plays a decisive role: the weather. We saw this again last autumn. It all started with temperatures that were far too warm in October. We simply couldn't move anything. And then it's a question of nerves and liquidity. The bottom line is that it's important for the store's existence not to be stuck with excess inventory. Stephan Huber: This reminds me of last summer. When the weather finally got nice and warm after weeks of non-stop rain, and consumers jumped on anything that looked like summer, most fashion retailers were nice enough to slash their prices as well. That doesn't make much business sense, does it? Marcus Kossendey: It doesn't make much business sense, but those are simply the current conditions on the market. The winter season begins on June 1 and the summer season begins on November 1. The fact that we put our merchandise on sale during the weeks that are actually the high season is the result of a gradual trend over time, which reached its peak after 2000 during all those discount wars, and now thank God has subsided somewhat. But the question is how to get back on an even keel and really sell according to the seasons and use these phases accordingly? Til Nadler, Managing Director Closed, Hamburg: I'd just like to interject something. Ideally, suppliers should react to the needs of retailers, and retailers should react to the needs of customers. That's an ideal situation that we certainly don't have right now. We've totally lost sight of what is actually required, and instead have triggered a cycle that ignores the demands of consumers. We currently hear from clients in the USA, and I mean major clients, that they don't want to receive the merchandise too early. Instead, they want it late – much later. They've changed the selling seasons and are much further along this road than we are. You're of course right, Mr. Kossendey. We all want to avoid being stuck with excess inventory – and rightly so. But the status quo certainly leaves room for improvement. Uwe Maier, Managing Director Bungalow, Stuttgart: It's interesting to note that the French and the Italians, who are far more fashionable, start much later than we Germans. I work a lot with French and Italians, and I'm always a bit envious of how they reduce their prices in such a disciplined way – They manage to do that and we somehow can't. Stephan Huber: And how do they manage? Uwe Maier: All of the players respect the rules. This is a important point in Italy because everything's regulated. And we need regulations

here as well because there's always somebody who stretches the rules. Here in Germany we only have the recommended retail prices and, in principle, the prices are unregulated so we can basically do whatever we want. Stephan Huber: Do we need regulations? Uwe Maier: If we're all going to play by the same rules, yes. I'd actually prefer individual responsibility and discipline. I also welcome what brands like Prada are doing. If I reduce my prices of their products too early, I get a good rap on the knuckles, and it really hurts. That's good, in my opinion, because it's the same for everyone and it protects me, too. Christian Obojes, Managing Director room with a view, Salzburg: I don't get all bent out of shape about this. This is the 21st century and the retail fashion industry follows other rules and rhythms than it did 20 or 30 years ago. This is because there are new channels. Anyone who reduces their merchandise too early, or too much – in other words, sells too little at regular prices – doesn't have a future in this business anyway. Stephan Huber: Good point. Mr. Kossendey, how high does a regular sales rate have to be to make you really satisfied? Marcus Kossendey: I start to feel satisfied with 70 per cent. But it's only at 80 per cent that I begin to feel really happy. Til Nadler: Or maybe not – because then you've maybe ordered too little. Marcus Kossendey: Procurement agents who consistently fail to reach such a magic level are perhaps in the wrong line of business. Stephan Huber: Is a weaker sales rate a sign of a weak collection, bad orders or the wrong timing? Marcus Kossendey: Even in a situation like this, it's rare that you can point to just one factor. Let me take a stab at outlining the ideal situation. In my opinion, an ideal situation looks like this: Reduce the pre-orders so you have less merchandise in your inventory at the beginning of the sales season, and then gradually increase your follow-up orders to precisely match the demand. Til Nadler: That's also basically the ideal situation for me as a manufacturer. I really can't say if this necessarily has to happen by massively

That's how it is with every business in the world. They have to be calculable. They have to be credible. And they have to be reliable. Uwe Maier

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.OPINION

Anyone who reduces their merchandise too early, or too much – in other words, sells too little at regular prices – doesn't have a future in this business anyway. Christian Obojes

reducing pre-orders. At any rate, as a supplier I definitely have to be intelligent enough to deliver the merchandise so it fits with the season. A product that arrives in the stores in November should also be sold at that time of year. It's a nightmare for retailers when they receive deliveries of things at a time when they have absolutely no idea how to sell them. Marcus Kossendey: The right merchandise at the right time. I know we've heard this trite axiom a million times before, but that should be the guiding principle. Here's a small example: Wöhrl has a particularly strong presence in rural regions. People there visit the cemeteries on All Saints' Day, and that's when new coats are purchased. Coat sales soar on the two weekends before All Saints' Day… Til Nadler: They actually need them at that time of year too. Coats instead of swimming trunks or swimming suits… Uwe Maier: It might sound like a joke, but swimming trunks are always the first summer articles I receive. This is at a time of year when my customers are standing in down jackets in front of the shop windows or have just had a mug of Glühwein. Christian Obojes: That may be true, but there are a number of reasons why we have the current selling seasons. Particularly in upmarket stores, exclusive articles are sold well in advance – and that's regardless of the current prevailing weather conditions just outside the store. Uwe Maier: That applies to womenswear to a greater extent than to menswear. Christian Obojes: True, but there are also customers who want to make their purchases early on – or customers who buy regardless of their needs. And there are stores that serve these customers. This

means that there's no such thing as one selling season to meet everyone's needs. Marcus Kossendey: The problem is not so much the swimming trunks in winter but the lack of discipline when it comes to special sales and price reductions. That always produces a domino effect. In the UK there are four price reductions: two midseason sales and two at the end of the season. And these are linked to holidays. And everyone respects them. So they sell like mad for one to two weeks, and then it's over. Stephan Huber: Is this regulated by law? Or is it learned? Christian Obojes: If there are four seasons, then there should be four opportunities to purge obsolete inventory – each one short and sweet. Marcus Kossendey: It's learned! The Brits also stand in a disciplined manner in a queue. Uwe Maier: Another aspect of this problem is that many retailers have discovered that discount sales can serve as an independent business model. They've built their business on bargain prices and even make extra purchases for this. For me it's a way of purging excess inventory. I divest myself of what's still there and get rid of the slow sellers and the 'not understood' items and start afresh. Stephan Huber: Let's go back to the gap between satisfaction and happiness. How is it possible to increase your sales rates? Christian Obojes: One way is to deal intensively with the collections, in other words, with the product. We notice this very clearly in our work. Retailers and procurement agents who approach their orders with clear ideas, and take a real interest in the collections, are the ones who achieve their sales rates. It's a good thing that there are quite a number of these retailers in Austria. Marcus Kossendey: As someone who's familiar with Austria, I can confirm this. It's absolutely essential to know the ins and outs of merchandise and trends. In general, buyers have become purchasing

We have to move away from these internalised two seasons – and toward four seasons. And within these seasons, we have to show constant movement and innovation in the stores. Marcus Kossendey

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+39 02 255151.1

www.szen.com

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.OPINION

agents who are oriented towards facts and figures and strongly influenced by the results of the previous season. What were the fast sellers and what were the slow sellers? And in a bid to avoid uncertainty, they end up returning to something that was there before. We know that all fast sellers will someday become slow sellers. You just have to figure out when you can still safely bail out. Til Nadler: There's no such thing as a magic crystal ball. As manufacturers we would prefer to offer our clients only fast sellers. Of course you'll always have the occasional article that doesn't work. But with the right communication between suppliers and retailers, it's usually possible to find clean solutions for these articles as well – although this has become more difficult. Christian Obojes: Communication is essential. That might sound like a platitude, but the more you talk with people, the more information you get, the more opinions you listen to, the more nuanced your own opinions will be. Many groups of retailers have more or less formal exchanges of information with each other. And these exchanges should be intensified throughout the industry. All too often these days, people's egos still stand in the way. Stephan Huber: I'd like to return briefly to the question of timing. Isn't it a problem that by the time the customers feel a need for the merchandise – and I'd say that this is true in the majority of cases – it's already old and passé in the eyes of the sales personnel? By midNovember a winter coat has already been hanging on the rack for about three months. Uwe Maier: I always have to take into account the ebb and flow of the seasons in my shop. At the end of an order, it's not enough to simply spend all the money in my budget – There also has to be a clear overall picture that is reflected in the store. It's part of our job to see to it that a coat delivered in August doesn't yet look old in November. Til Nadler: There are admittedly some articles you're sick of looking at after a while. But retailers have to ensure that there are constantly new displays in the shop – and the industry has to support this with intelligent delivery dates. All in all, however, there's still room to manoeuvre in the industry. A single shop like Bungalow naturally has an advantage over chain stores because it's considerably easier for the retailer to keep the overall picture in mind at all times. The big chain outlets have a much more difficult time here. Marcus Kossendey: But this is also just as important for us. We consciously want our male customers to take an interest in the latest developments in women's outerwear – and in sportswear. Once again, it boils down to communication. Look over each other's shoulders, ask questions, talk about the quality of the merchandise – in all categories. The best suggestions often come from the outside. This exchange of information also determines whether an order can be transformed into a harmonious product range. And a harmonious product range is definitely the best way to achieve a sales rate that makes you happy – just to touch on this issue once again. Stephan Huber: We're talking slightly theoretically here about an ideal situation. »The reality on the ground is that many customers today see regular prices as a rip-off because bargains have actually become the norm for them.«

Christian Obojes: I think you have to differentiate here. There are in fact a lot of consumers who see bargain hunting as a kind of hobby or sport. But that's something different from regular customers who occasionally come by to look at special sales. Stephan Huber: For bargain hunters the focus is not so much on the product itself as on the feeling of making a clever purchase? Christian Obojes: At least it's the prime motivational factor. The fact that this has definitely increased also has to do with today's many online options. Marcus Kossendey: The average retention period at the eBay fashion shop is two hours. During the winter months, this even rises to three hours. I could hardly believe that. It goes without saying that this has had an enormous impact on buyer behaviour. There's primarily a feeling that everything is always available everywhere. Consumers make purchases more quickly and at new intervals. People no longer say: 'Winter's coming, so let's drive to town and buy clothes for the whole family.' The fashion business is no longer a business based on immediate needs. There are still special occasions. But they're also emotionally charged. We have to move away from these internalised two seasons – and towards four seasons. And within these seasons, we have to show constant movement and innovation in the stores. Uwe Maier: I find the idea of spending three hours looking at clothing on eBay incredibly stressful. Til Nadler: In this room we're not exactly representative. For many shoppers this still has the appeal of something new. And it's possible to make direct price comparisons on the internet – worldwide! This often leads to the realisation that the prices in Germany are usually very high when compared with other countries around the globe. Stephan Huber: This is usually justified by pointing to the required markup. Is the holy 2.7 markup actually a must? Or would it be possible to have lower markups with lower overhead? Christian Obojes: Southern Europe and Scandinavia don't need 2.7. And I don't believe that the rents in Stockholm or Florence are that cheap, not to mention the non-wage labour costs. I presume that it has to do with a generally more exclusive product range – and another attitude towards shopping – even in the countryside. In Italy there are stunning stores in the middle of nowhere.

Retailers have to ensure that there are constantly new displays in the shop. And the industry has to support this with intelligent delivery dates. All in all, however, there is definitely still room to manoeuvre in the industry. Til Nadler

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Even though they agree, there's intense discussion on the subject: The issue of regulating sales dates is stirring up everybody. From left to right: Marcus Kossendey, Uwe Maier, Christian Obojes und Til Nadler.

Til Nadler: The large amount of inventory is definitely a problem,

especially when it comes to the basics. For too long we've done things according to the set phrase: 'Inventory generates sales.' That's nonsense! Stephan Huber: That's no longer the case? Til Nadler: Perhaps it still generates sales. But at what price? This inevitably leads to endless price-slashing wars. After all, at some point in time, all those tons of boring cotton sweaters have to be sold – no matter what it takes. Uwe Maier: Anyone who has too many comparable articles in their product portfolio also faces a wide range of competition. The more exclusive and independent my product range, the more independent I am of what my colleagues do. A genuinely good product will always sell well. No problem! Stephan Huber: This reminds me of the announcements made by Louis Vuitton last autumn that, due to the enormous demand, their own stores would remain open one hour less. Christian Obojes: A brilliant PR gag! Uwe Maier: It works due to the enormous desirability and exclusivity of the products and the brand. Louis Vuitton and Hermes certainly don't drum up business with discount prices. Christian Obojes: They have other channels, such as internal sales to their personnel. This also brings to mind another major difference in comparison to Italy, where they have a much better established principle of using outlets to reduce excess inventory. They always have someone to buy up the stuff on a grand scale. Marcus Kossendey: Take for instance Eduard Maier in Munich: He does the same thing. His store is always perfectly clean. But then he rents commercial space where, for a limited period of time, he can rapidly move out the merchandise long after the season is over. In the end he also drops the prices on the last dust-gathering articles by 20 per cent to keep the shop really clean. These sales take place perhaps two months out of the year. That's the ideal situation! But he also has a product that's incomparable. Stephan Huber: Then I'll go ahead and ask about the ideal situation, looking to the future... Marcus Kossendey: I'll summarise it once again: Make limited preorders, launch into the season, look at what works and what doesn't, adjust your follow-up orders accordingly and, at the end of the season, go out with a bang with well calculated, reduced prices on special items. With this kind of scheme, it wouldn't matter if you had three price-reduction steps. You'd still earn something on it. Stephan Huber: Is this really feasible? I imagine that the small preorders are increasingly difficult with more upmarket collections… Til Nadler: But it has to go in this direction, no doubt about it. Our experience with Closed over the past few seasons was that the initial collections from the spring in the autumn, in other words, the early style in progress

ordering deadlines, have gained an increasing amount of importance and generated more sales. This is certainly going in the direction of the four seasons that Mr. Kossendey mentioned. And this gives us an excellent orientation for the areas of focus throughout the subsequent ordering season. If the products are right and have been accepted, then it's possible to quickly make the most of the fast sellers. I think we're very good at doing that. That's an ideal scenario. If you can do this to a certain degree, then you're definitely in the running. This means, however, that merchandise which isn't immediately sold ends up staying on the sales floor for a long time. And then the retailers come again – especially those who do business according to lists and use all these great abbreviations. There's always one who really hammers you. The retail margins always depend on the wholesale margins. When prices are cut, the retail margins suddenly don't look so good any more. And then comes the agonising question: 'What do we do now?' Marcus Kossendey: Share the financial burden! No, seriously: As a retailer you have to have a sense for what's reasonable when dealing with manufacturers. You can't demand everything from them. You want them to share the financial burden, but you also need quick follow-up deliveries for collections and you still want to place all the risk in the manufacturer's lap – that's just not possible! »It will always be our job to procure merchandise and carry an appropriate amount of risk – no question! « Uwe Maier: That's how it is with every business in the world. They have to be calculable. They have to be credible. And they have to be reliable. Those are the three main points. In view of this, I'd rather have fewer suppliers and have a promising outlook to work with them over the medium term – and none of this on-and-off stuff. I also think that you can't try to squeeze suppliers dry in an attempt to get the best conditions. It has to be a reasonable, balanced relationship. Til Nadler: Right! There has to be a sharing of the risks involved. And the general impression is that the big fashion houses are no longer doing this. Marcus Kossendey: At Wöhrl we really have a few problems – and we could never solve these without our suppliers. But this can't be done by sending an e-mail or making a short phone call. You have to sit down with people and talk. When you do that, you ask yourself: Do they, or do they not, believe that things have to be done differently? This can only be done face to face. And this is unfortunately something that has increasingly fallen by the wayside among the big players – and damaged the entire market. Christian Obojes: At the risk of repeating myself: The key to everything is the right communication. Or, as they say where I come from: 'Talkin' brings folks together.' Stephan Huber: The perfect closing words. Thank you very much, gentlemen.

@ PREMIUM BERLIN HALL 3 STAND H3-E 02

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This is about fashioninsider tips from all over the world; shoes from Japan, jeans from Los Angeles, knits from Switzerland or sportswear from Sweden. The year 2011 begins with a group of new discoveries that really deserve the name: products that prove themselves through their love of detail and well-thought-out concepts.

Yuketen

Out of the Forest

Slim fit, button down and paired with a silk tie; that's Morse Code's dress code.

With rugged, blue-collar beginnings, Yuketen is a leather products line of men's footwear, bags and accessories that strikes the perfect balance between masculine utility and stylish design. Founded by designer Yuki Masuda in 1989, Yuketen celebrates Northeast American tradition and strength, while incorporating unique details into practical pieces, like gold pyramid studs on loafers and boots with colourful quilted panels. Instead of designing for mass market, Masuda, who has an enviable collection of over 250 pairs of new and vintage shoes, designs what he himself would wear. Each piece is delicately handmade in the U.S. or Canada, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no wonder that Yuketen wholesales from 110 to 2,165 euros with a 55 per cent markup The label is sold at internationally known retailers like Colette in Paris, 14 Oz in Berlin and Dover Street Market in London. FattoreK, Gianni Klemera, 20141 Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.57405470, info@pedi.it, www.yuketen.com

The American label Yuketen stands for robust, hand-made men's leather shoes.

Morse Code

Dots and Dashes

Three short, three long, three short beeps: That stands for S.O.S. in Morse code. This pre-digital-era communication signal system is still used by ships for certain kinds of communication, but also by Dutch fashion label Morse Code. Owner Ruud Mors (yes, the name was pretty inspirational too) decided to start his own label of original polos: buttondown piquĂŠ shirts, as worn by polo players. The button-down collar keeps the edges in place at all times. By using Morse code in its communication, the label is pointing out that these polo shirts are stripped down to the bare necessities. Morse Code's slim fit polo shirts are available with long or short cuffed sleeves and in several colours. There's also a small line of slim silk ties to pair with the shirts. Recommended retail prices are 84,95 euros (short sleeve), 99,95 euros (long sleeve) and 44,95 euros (tie), all with a 2,5 markup. The label is positioned in the fashionable, dress jeans segment. Currently Morse Code is sold in the Netherlands and Belgium, and is beeping its signals further abroad. Morse Code, 1860 AA Bergen/Netherlands, T 0031.646610706, ruud@morsecodeclothing.com, www.morsecodeclothing.com

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Hans Ubbink

Wearable Non-Conformity

08 Sircus

As a designer and the head of Books, at the time a label of the Secon-Group, Hans Ubbink was one of the most important driving forces behind new menswear. With his anthroposophic beliefs he may have been a bit ahead of his time back then. In 2000 Ubbink launched a men's collection under his own name. His quick success in the domestic market in the Netherlands and Belgium led him to add a women's collection and a very edgy, denim-based young line called Blue. In all of his designs, Ubbink always maintains the tough balance between non-conformity and relaxed wearability, all flavoured with a pinch of irony. Overdressing is for him as terrible as facelessness. He has relied on organic growth from the start. As a result, the family-owned company (his wife Ans takes care of the finances and his brother Taco is in charge of sales and marketing) is going into the German-speaking market this season. Hans Ubbink will present his idea of contemporary clothing at the Bread & Butter in Berlin. Hans Ubbink, Koan Cooperation bv, 1438 AN Oude Meer bei Amsterdam/Netherlands, T 0031.20.3680863, sales@hansubbink.com, www.hansubbink.com

Japanese Export

Japanese designer Kiminori Morishita is the man behind the skilful menswear collection 08 Sircus. His experience ranges from design training in Tokyo to positions at various Japanese fashion companies such as Tete Homme and the creation of his own label named after himself. It was first presented in Tokyo in 2003, then in Paris four years later. He finally launched the label 08 Sircus three seasons ago at menswear fashion shows in Paris for the spring/summer 2010 season. Modern, puristic shapes and cuts are characteristic of Morishita, as is his love for experimental use of technologically innovative materials. His designs are in the medium to high price range. Shirts cost between 350 and 450 euros, trousers 350 to 700 euros and jackets 800 to 1,200 euros. To date 08 Sircus can only be found at a few sales outlets in Europe and is sold at Ulf Haines in Berlin, L'eclaireur in Paris, Entrance in Bucharest, Farenah in Sofia and Sbaiz in Lignano. Showroom Romeo, 75004 Paris/France, T 0033.1.42772983, contact@showroomromeo.com, www.showroomromeo.com, www.kiminorimorishita.jp

Puristic and true to original form: 08 Sircus by Kiminori Morishita.

Uniform

Denim History

Hans Ubbink has presented his collection on the catwalk since 2000.

In the '80s the Italian brand Uniform achieved a genuine cult status, but the brand subsequently drifted out of the limelight. Over the past few years though, Greek denim producer Staff has repositioned Uniform in Greece and Italy and sales in Northern Europe were launched this past season. Currently there are approximately 20 styles with a focus on attractively washed denims and chino fabrics for men. Eight different sorts of jeans are offered in a range of washes: The rate of the aging process varies between 5, 10 and 15 years. In addition, there are a variety of tops, including sweatshirts, T-shirts and knitwear. Trousers retail between 100 and 149 euros. A highlight of the collection is Uniform's new top-quality U Line made of Japan denim, which was developed in collaboration with Paolo Pecchioli from Gerard Loft in Florence, but is sold via a separate distribution channel. Uniform, U.M Company SpA, Nina Fitzgerald, 50331 Barberino di Mugello/Italy, T 0033.3405123811, nina@uniformjeans.it, www.uniformjeans.it

Due to repositioning, Uniform, the Italian cult jeans brand from the '80s, is experiencing a revival in northern Europe.

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Lexington

US Lifestyle Made in Sweden

The new men's line Bobi Men will be available for the first time in Europe in spring 2011.

Casual, luxurious and with an American touch: Kristina Lindhe loves the East Coast of America and named her homewear collection, which she founded in 1997, after the city in Kentucky known as the centre of horse breeding. From that time the Lexington Company in Stockholm has been associated with the comfortable, high-end New England lifestyle and is distributed in 20 countries around the globe. The customer list includes department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges, as well as de Bijenkorf, KaDeWe or Jelmoli in Zurich. Since 2007 the 120piece casual clothing line has been sold in countries such as Sweden, Denmark, France and Spain and for the last two seasons, in Germany as well. It consists of casual parkas, down jackets and caban jackets, shirts, knitwear, tunics, denim shirts, chinos and jeans for men and women. This very American line falls in the medium price range – from polo shirts for 79 euros to heavy sweatshirts for around 139 euros. The Lexington Company AB, 11249 Stockholm/Sweden, T 0046.854555800, info@lexingtonclothing.com, www.lexington.com

American style fresh from Sweden.

Bobi Men

Now It's His Turn

New York meets California with the casual and cool style of the American label bobi Los Angeles. Stars like Nicole Richie and Jessica Alba made bobi famous following its launch by California-based Genexus International Inc. in 2006 – and two years later, the label bobbed its way across the Big Pond to Europe. Since 2008 bobi has been available in over 500 European stores. From the spring of 2011, men will also have an opportunity to wear bobi. Just like with bobi Women, the debut collection for men sticks to the essentials: cool and comfortable T-shirts in various shades of grey and blue. Cuts range from tight muscle shirts to classic T-shirts to light hooded sweatshirts – all made of 100 per cent cotton. Vintage washes and frayed seams provide special accents. Wholesale prices range from 14 to 24 euros, with a 2.75 markup. Ordering dates for bobi Men correspond to selected trade shows in summer and winter. The showrooms and a bestseller immediate action programme offer additional ordering. Distribution for Europe is coordinated by the European Sales Network in Düsseldorf. Bobi Europe c/o European Fashion Sales Network EFSN Ltd, Martina Ullrich, 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.5445145, martinaullrich@efsn.de, www.bobieurope.com

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Highlights of Swiss men's label Nargeni are pullovers and hoodies that can be worn on both sides.

Nargeni

A Crazy Genius

The name of the Swiss menswear label launched in May 2010 is derived from the Rhaeto-Romanic terms "nar" and "scheni" and translates to "crazy genius." This describes the clientele that Nargeni aims to attract with its traditional yet stylish menswear collection. The two founders Ghilaine Ricklin and Jessica von Bachellé have opted for figure-hugging and simple, but high-quality shirts and polo shirts. The collection's highlights include the reversible pullovers and hoodies with print on both sides and unconventional details such as button-down collars or cufflinks with triple fasteners. Traditional Swiss woven patterns of cashmere or alpaca are given a modern reinterpretation. Nargeni provides quality at affordable prices from 35 to 230 euros. The products are sold in the online shop. Burger on Zurich's Bahnhofstrasse is the first offline retailer. Nargeni JcG Couture AG, 8002 Zurich/Switzerland, T 0041.78.8353443, info@nargeni.ch, www.nargeni.ch

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Gerry

Light As a Feather Whatever the Weather

Laser cuts ensure the destroyed effect in the luxury denims from AG-ed Reserve.

AG-ed Reserve

Playground

What can you do with denim? The new high-end range AG-ed Reserve answers this question with its highly innovative creations. The styles undergo special processes – intricate washing and dying processes, as well as heat and steam treatments. Lasercut for destroyed effects, AG's typical patchwork and a handcrafted 10-karat gold button engraved with AG 49 complete the look of the various styles. Of the five styles each for men and women, there are only 250 garments worldwide. The price for so much luxury: The garments retail from 500 euros and up. Interested retailers could already view the first denims for the spring/summer 2011 season at Bread & Butter in Berlin. Koos Manufacturing Company in South Gate, California started both the AG-ed Reserve project and the AG Adriano Goldschmied, which was founded in 2000 by Adriano Goldschmied and company owner Yul Ku. The cooperation with Adriano Goldschmied came to an end in 2003, but the main collection still retains its attention to detail. Komet und Helden, 80805 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.9705280, info@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de, www.agjeans.com

Pence

A Treasure from the Archives

In 1946 Gerry Cunningham founded his company Gerry Mountain Sports Inc. in Denver, Colorado. He began developing, designing and producing the equipment for professional mountaineering, including expeditions to Everest, the K2 and the Andes. Hobby climbers also benefited from his ultra-light nylon jackets with down padding. Back in 1959, he developed a full-body survival suit for the U.S. Air Force with the packaging dimensions of an envelope. Back then, many winter sports and mountaineering enthusiasts loved his concept "warmth without weight." At the 1964 Winter Olympics in Innsbruck, the entire American Olympics Committee were kitted out with the Gerry Slope Coat. The Gerry Heritage collection features two men's and two women's jackets, a unisex vest, two hats and two unisex jackets in up to seven different colours. Retail prices range from 250 to 550 euros with a markup of 2.5. The company is looking for trade reps for the German-speaking countries, but interested retailers can already order products from the European distributor in Sweden. Gerry Outdoor AB, Jäger Arén, 413 19 Göteborg/Sweden, T 0046.705740591, jager.aren@gerry.us, www.gerry.us

The Pence label is set for a new start with its spring/ summer 2011 collection.

The Pence label was actually founded in 1979 by the Italian textile manufacturer C.P.A, which produced brands such as Polo Ralph Lauren and Burberry. But despite being fairly successful, the production of Pence Jeans was stopped after 10 years in order to free resources for the company's key business. Now Pence is being revived by Dora Zecchini, daughter of the C.P.A. owner, who discovered Pence's old collection garments in the manufacturer's archive. The spring/summer 2011 season marked the collection's relaunch – with blazers, shirts and chinos for men and women in highquality vintage style, with special destroyed effects, paint splashes and appliquéd rivets. "The first order far exceeded our expectations," rejoices Florian Ranft from the Komet und Helden Agency, which is in charge of distribution for Austria and Germany. "In future we want Pence to continue to grow, but will value quality over quantity." Blazers wholesale from 105 to 155 euros and chinos from 65 to 85 euros. Komet und Helden, 80805 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.9705280, Florian.Ranft@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de

The motto for Gerry's down jackets "warmth without weight."

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Nine in the Morning

Hurrah for the Jeans!

Founded by Umberto Vendramin in 2007, Italian denim label Nine in the Morning now pays tribute to the history of jeans with its Iconic Collection. Featuring everything from skinny, tight, straight and flared-leg to low medium and high-waist models, Nine in the Morning's current collection gives a new lease on life to many fashionable fads of yesteryear. Details like hidden zippers, sewn pleats and removable belt loops provide fresh zest along with unusual cuts and proportions. All designs are made of Italian and Japanese denim and dyed exclusively with pure indigo. Models like Blue Awakening, Skin Sensation and Intense Emotion are available in selected stores like Eickhoff in D端sseldorf, Tatem in Berlin and Conley's in Hamburg. Retail prices range from 142 to 190 euros. Two flash programmes complement the two main annual womenswear collections. There are plans to expand the selection for men. Nine in the Morning c/o Bube Clothing Company Srl., 36028 Rossano Veneto/Italy, T 0039.04.2484971, info@nineinthemorning.com, www.nineinthemorning.com

The Grecian goddess look serves as inspiration for the glamorous evening gowns from the new Perseiden label.

The jeans from Nine in the Morning are dyed exclusively with plant-derived indigo.

Friendly Hunting

Cashmere Just in Time

The Friendly Hunting cashmere label, founded in Germany in 2005, has taken advantage of quick delivery cycles. Eight weeks from presentation to delivery makes for happy retailers. The man behind Friendly Hunting is Christian Goldmann. Born in Puerto de la Cruz, Goldmann gained experience in his parents' business and put his skills to use at numerous international fashion companies. Convinced that high quality and speed are not necessarily mutually exclusive, he launched his collection made up primarily of elegant cashmere garments as well as woven and knitted accessories six years ago. A great deal of attention in manufacturing the garments is paid to the perfect symbiosis of handcraftsmanship and industrial production. The wholesale price range is 59.90 euros to 390 euros. A markup of 2.7 is recommended. Friendly Hunting, Sven Schilling, 40474 D端sseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.3368002, sven@friendly-hunting.com, www.friendly-hunting.com

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Perseiden

A Woman's Guiles

In ancient times the Greeks discovered a meteor shower and named it the Perseids. Today it is the inspiration for the name of a luxury label. The two founders Cornelia Schmid-Heizer and Rebecca Waibel share an affinity for fashion, and since August 2010 joint responsibility for the Perseiden brand. The first collection is coming to shops in spring 2011. "Modern without hype; classic without being conservative" best describes the style of the two founders. The focus is on softly flowing fabrics On the spot: At Friendly combined with striking designs. The designers Hunting it's the product and attach importance to high product quality. Offering the delivery schedule. an elegant business look for daytime as well as something more glamorous for evening, Cornelia Schmid-Heizer and Rebecca Waibel gleaned inspiration from the classic grace of Greek goddesses for the opening spring-summer collection 2010. The exclusive garments are available for wholesale prices between 50 and 100 euros with a markup of 2.7. The products are sold directly by Cornelia Schmid-Heizer and Rebecca Waibel in Munich. Perseiden Fine Clothing GbR, 80337 Munich/Germany, T 0049.176.96609707, info@perseiden.net, www.perseiden.net

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Flo accessories are luxurious pieces made of top-quality materials such as python or fur.

Rosebowl and Bricks

Vibrantly Coloured Vintage Basics

The young Frankfurt-based label Rosebowl and Bricks offers high-quality vintage fashion for women. Founded in 2010 by Thorsten Bold, the label offers the European market high-quality, lavishly constructed basics. The sophisticated and rich colours of the piece-dying technique result in an authentic vintage look. The 40-piece SS11 collection features attractive starting prices: Wholesale prices range from 12 to 49.90 euros. The label's namesake is a large flea market that is held at the Rose Bowl in California, which is a world-famous source of inspiration to artists, designers and fashion enthusiasts. The name also carries a message: Clothes from Rosebowl and Bricks are meant to be worn for a long time. Bricks stand for the future menswear collection, which is in the planning stage. Now that's something to look forward to! Onsale Trading Company, 60314 Frankfurt am Main/Germany, T 0049.69.860042990, info@onsale-trading.com, www.rosebowlandbricks.com

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Flo Accessoires

Decorative Details

The high-quality accessories of Zurich designer Florence Bachofen-Székely emanate pure luxury. The Swiss lady has worked for international design houses as well as for Swarovski. Now she is presenting her own collection of bags, purses, belts and golf accessories. A large part of the collection is manufactured in Italy. Bachhofen-Székely focuses on simple shapes and features special fabrics such as washed leather, lasered leather with a denim effect and printed leather or pony skin. Using fabrics such as python or fur, she creates luxurious highlights: comfortable shopping bags that can also be used to transport a laptop, or clutch bags that can be transformed into chic shoulder bags for the evening. The belts are glammed up with metal edging and eyecatchers such as rivets or Swarovski crystals make for an unusual mix of materials. The Swiss collection is completed by small accessories such as purses and bracelets. In addition to its own webshop, the brand will be sold in Germany by high-end retailers. The retail prices range from 80 euros for small items to 1,300 euros for luxurious bags. Flo Accessoires, Florence Bachofen-Székely, 8702 Zollikon/Switzerland, T 0044.390.3336, info@floaccessoires.com, www.floaccessoires.com

Kill City

Rebels with a Cause

The vintage look from Rosebowl and Bricks is due to a special single-piece dying technique.

Founded by Drew Bernstein, a man behind the punk rock label Lip Service, Kill City is for punks who've graduated to sleeker style, but are still non-conformists at heart. Their fall 2010 collection pays homage to its rebellious heritage with skull graphics, leopard prints and a deliciously dark color palette paired with chic fitted jackets, clean denim and billowy tops. With a strong focus on quality, Kill City loyally manufactures in the US to keep a close eye on every detail of the finished product. Wholesaling for between 15 and 110 euros with a 2.5 per cent markup, Kill City can be found at high-end retailers like Barney's and Opening Ceremony and online retailer Shopbop. Despite their success, Kill City is still out to break fashion conventions from the inside. Kill City, Los Angeles, CA 90033/USA, T 001.323.260.7308, stacia@theoriginalcult.com, www.killcity.net

Kill City – hard on the outside, soft on the inside; fashion for grown-up punks.

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Philippe Model

Vintage from Paris

Blood & Glitter offers casual, stylish jeans at a good price.

Blood & Glitter

Rock'n'Roll Never Dies

10 years ago Terry Fraser founded his label Blood & Glitter together with Teoman Ademogullari. The idea: cool jeans with the spirit of rock'n'roll. "We've always tried to feature vintage workwear," says the well known UK designer, who sees himself as more of a rock'n'roller than as a designer. His first breakthrough was his camouflage cargo pants, which were displayed in the shop window of Selfridges, the renowned department store on London's Oxford Street. Blood & Glitter is not only successful in Britain, but also a hit in Japan and the USA. Now Reinhart Oberstein is attempting to relaunch the jeans label, which has already been on the German market, but now needs to be correctly positioned. The target is to attract 150 customers by the year 2012. The fashionable key pieces are harem pants of soft denim, skinny cargo pants for women and relaxed slim-fit to wider cut jeans for men. Retailer advantage: flash programmes between the main collections that are delivered within six weeks due to the production in Turkey and the triple markup of retailprices from 129 to 189 euros. CP Fashion, 40211 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211. 98594378, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de, www.bloodandglitter.com

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Designer Philippe Model's quest has led him out of Paris and into the wide world ever since he registered his name for his own label. From France to Russia, Italy, Austria and Germany, the shoe label today has found a ready market – and that despite the fact that Model had originally started his design career making hats. Shoebizz GmbH carries out the sales and distribution across Germany. In addition to Castros in Nuremberg, other stores offering Philippe Model's two main collections each year include Einwaller in Innsbruck and Le Form in Moscow. These collections are made up of 120 styles for men and women, supplemented by a flash programme and a children's collection. Philippe Model is currently devoting his time to the topic of Mainly Vintage. The vintage sneakers that fall under this category use perforated or washed leather, canvas and nylon. The models manufactured in Italy have a 2.5 markup and cost between 179 and 245 euros in stores. Shoebizz GmbH, Jason Pfyffer, 6331 Hünenberg/Switzerland, T 0039.329.7255309, info@onlinebiz.it, www.shoebizz.ch, www.philippemodel.com

From head to toe: Former hatmaker Philippe Model is now designing sneakers in the vintage look.

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Swiss Chriss

Quality over Quantity

Moose Knuckles

Warm and Chic

There's plenty of active wear in Canada, but up to now there's been one thing missing: the fashionable twist. This inspired the design of the first down jacket by Moose Knuckles. The label's jackets consist of 20 per cent more down than comparable models and are fully waterproof, but still breathable. Details such as brown or arctic fox fur trim on the hoods give the designs that certain je ne sais quoi. Their trademark is a stylised metal horseshoe on the left sleeve. There are two collections produced a year, with short jackets and parkas for both men and women. Another difference to other labels: The parkas are shorter than usual to enable more freedom of movement. Moose Knuckles is available in Canada, the USA, Japan, Scandinavia and Germany. A parka wholesales at 259 euros with a markup of 2.7, and a short jacket at around 222 euros. The prices are for both the women's and the men's models. CP Fashion, 40211 D端sseldorf/Germany, T 0049.7763.7021, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de Scandinavia: North72 AS, 0314 Oslo/Norway, T 0047.92408624, lasse@north72.no, mooseknucklescanada.com

Jackets by Moose Knuckles: Promise 20% more down than competitor brands.

Just looking good isn't enough, thought the designers behind the Swiss label Swiss Chriss. They decided to set themselves apart from the mass of jacket and coat labels and brands by using innovative materials and surface coatings as well as ergonomic cuts. This idea was transformed into timelessly elegant, high-quality wool jackets designed for dynamic people. Every individual piece is intended to give the customer the feeling of being well dressed. For all models manufacturers use only a mixture of knitting and boiled wool produced with laser technology and open-edge craftsmanship. The jackets are amazingly light, making them very comfortable to wear. At a wholesale price of 80 to 120 euros, they're exceptionally interesting for the retail trade. Swiss Chriss is focusing on a few, solid models. The women's and men's collections each include roughly fifteen pieces. Benelux, Scandinavia Breramode, 20135 Milan/Italy, T 0039.025.5015997, breramode@breramode.com, www.breramode.com, www.swiss-chriss.ch

With its promising markup the Mohn Collection is the perfect addition to the design-oriented segment.

Mohn

A Flourishing Business

The concept is quite simple. The label Mohn (German for poppy) from Switzerland provides elegant basics in the form of knitwear and shirts and, thanks to its triple markup, generates above-average returns. Mohn is the brainchild of Agnes Ackermann who worked for a long time as a buyer for upmarket women's outerwear shops and so knows what she's talking about. "It's particularly in the designer departments that there's a lack of high-quality products that sell well and generate higher margins," she says. The current highlights include fine cashmere jackets with multi-coloured stripes, cashmere knitted dresses and matching capes that wholesale at prices between 60 and 100 euros. In addition, there are shirts in matching colours, which also contain cashmere. In Germany, Mohn has thus far only had about 15 customers, including Engelhorn und Kaiser, because up to now the label Mohn was being distributed from Switzerland. This is set to change under the management of Reinhart Oberstein and his agency CP Fashion who have taken over the German distribution and are hoping to attract about 100 selected customers by the end of 2012. a+s knitwear concept agnes ackermann, 4058 Basel/Switzerland, T 0041.61261.1624, mail@agnesackermann.ch, www.mohntag.com

Wearing comfort in top quality wool: the light jackets from Swiss Chriss.

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Text+Photos: Kjeld Duits

Fashion

Seeing how thoroughly Western fashion has permeated Japanese society, it's sobering to realize how brief its history actually is in this country. Western fashion entered Japan some 150 years ago, but the majority of Japanese women continued to wear kimono well into the first half of the 20th century. It took until the '60s before Western fashion truly took off. That means that it reaches back only about half a century. In spite of this, or perhaps because of it, fashion plays an incredibly important role in the lives of many Japanese. A surprisingly large number of people in their late teens and early twenties spend as much as 50 to 90 per cent of their disposable income on clothing. Fashion to them is a way of life. Instead of watching TV, doing sports, exploring the outdoors, or taking a trip in their free time, they prefer shopping for clothes. This becomes immediately obvious when you visit areas like Tokyo's famous Ginza Boulevard, or the city's youth culture areas of Harajuku and Shibuya. Both are crowded all day long, every single day of the week. On the week-end, they're so busy you can often only shuffle. The number of fashion related businesses in these areas is mind boggling. In Shibuya's famous Shibuya 109 fashion building there are 10 floors with over a hundred shops. In nearby Harajuku the even more famous Laforet Harajuku Building features 12 floors with more than 140 shops. Nearby Omotesando Hills, an upscale shopping mall, houses about a hundred retail outlets. These are just three of countless buildings like this, spread out all over this mega-city. Surrounded by this enormous wealth of fashion, Japanese have begun to explore and experiment. Unfettered by hundreds of years of fashion convention, they mix and match, and freely combine styles, materials and influences. This first got the West's attention in the '80s when designers Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto took to the catwalks of Paris. Their unconventional designs both shocked and inspired. Western fashion had never seen anything like it. They introduced concepts like simplicity, asymmetry and deconstruction, and they showed that black could be beautiful. Their eventual recognition and success captured the nation they hailed from. These days new fashion ideas are more likely to come from the style in progress

A young woman in Tokyo’s Harajuku. There is an astonishing creativity in combining colors and materials.

streets than the catwalk. Especially Osaka's Amerika Mura and Tokyo's Harajuku, both youth culture centres, have become famous for giving birth to a seemingly endless chain of new fashion trends. Some of these have been extreme, like Lolita fashion in which young women dress up like Victorian dolls. Others have been more subtle. All of these trends have one thing in common, the deep love of layering, unbelievable attention to detail, and an astonishing creativity in combining colours and materials. Undoubtedly it's a leftover from a time, not so long ago, when everybody wore kimono.

Denim Almost all of Japan's major fashion labels are based in the country's capital. In Japan's fashion world, Tokyo rules. But the vintage jeans boom that has swept the world the past twenty years originated in Osaka, 500 kilometres away from the fashion capital.

Revolution

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•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• •••••••••••••••••• In Japan, Tokyo acts like a giant vacuum cleaner; it sucks up everybody and everything and never lets anything go. One fifth of Japan's population now lives in Tokyo. Politics, commerce, the media, the arts, everything that matters in Japan centres in the capital. There seems to be an imaginary line. Anything west of that line doesn't really get much attention in Tokyo and is often even looked down upon. There's a definite East-West divide. This is especially true for fashion. Virtually all of Japan’s fashion brands are headquartered in or nearby Tokyo. Even an established and internationally known designer like Hiroko Koshino, who grew up in Osaka and still has a beautiful villa near the city, is based in Tokyo. Tokyo is where the action is, where the jobs are, where all the information is. Most young designers move to Tokyo as soon as they graduate from fashion colleges all over Japan. So it's extraordinary that the vintage jeans revolution that has swept the world over the past twenty years originated in Osaka. Blues Run Riot

A revolution it has truly been. It was started by five rebels, whose products are now renowned amongst the world's style in progress

most fanatic jeans lovers. By 2005 the vintage movement had made such an impact on the jeans market that even staid business magazine Forbes was reporting on such jeans. The market for this once lowly working class item has grown huge. The EU jeans market alone is estimated to be over 14 billion euros. The Osaka connection to replica jeans has become so obvious that jeans lovers outside Japan now often call the main companies pioneering vintage jeans the Osaka 5.

To this day these five companies are still based in or near Osaka.

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A Denim Rebel as conquering hero: Evisu founder Hidehiko Yamane in his flagship store in Osaka.

Studio Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Artisan (1979), Evisu (1991), Fullcount (1992) and Warehouse (1995) are from Osaka. Denime (1988) is from Kobe, a city close to Osaka. It's no coincidence that the replica jeans movement started in Osaka. All the needed ingredients, including Japan's largest denim manufacturer Kurabo, were available here just when the time was ripe.

Here a small group of fanatic jeans lovers working in the fashion industry had their fingers on their customers' pulse. Here were companies that had technical know-how and funding at a time when original vintage jeans from the USA were becoming both popular and rare at the same time. And just a few hours away were countless small factories with dust-collecting, old-fashioned looms that were jumping for new business. Mix in the intense pride, individualism and competitive character of the Osaka 5 founders, and the region's intense dedication to traditionally made products - as opposed to Tokyo's love for the latest trend - and you have an explosive brew. style in progress

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A bath in Japanese vintage denim: Fullcount founder uses cotton from Zimbabwe.

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for Perfect

Jeans

The Quest

eans are as American as you can get. But the jeans that American companies like Levi's, Lee and Wrangler make today are far removed from those that American icons like James Dean and Elvis Presley wore. Production of raw, unwashed denim was discontinued in the US in the '60s; the old looms and the skilled workers that produced it vanished soon after. At some time in the late '80s this was starting to bother two employees of Lapine, a small fashion store in Osaka. "I really liked Levi's 501," recalls Hidehiko Yamane, one of the two, now well known as the founder of Evisu. "But in the '80s, jeans were changing. The quality of the sewing was going down, rivets were different, the material was not the same anymore, and they even used plastic buttons. I thought this was weird, so I started to research how jeans were made."

Do It Yourself

"At the time many Japanese bought vintage jeans from the US," remembers Mikiharu Tsujita, the second employee and now owner of Fullcount. "It was becoming more and more difficult to find them, and they were becoming expensive. So Yamane and I suggested that we'd make vintage jeans ourselves." Lapine's owner Saburo Fujimoto initially went ahead with their plans, but when it became time to pay for a batch of denim, he balked. "Japan's economic bubble had just burst," says Yamane, "so he probably didn't really have the money anymore." But Yamane had already made the denim, and had also fallen deeply in love with the project itself. He decided that if Fujimoto

In the late '80s and early '90s, the small group of Japanese jeans fanatics in the city of Osaka went on a quest for the perfect jeans. Their pursuit for the best denim would eventually unleash a jeans boom that has thoroughly changed the global jeans market.

wouldn't, he'd do it himself. In February 1991 he quit his job. Two months later he started the company that would grow into Evisu. By 1992 Yamane had made his first 300 pairs of jeans. Popular Japanese magazine mono happened on them, liked what they saw, and introduced them on their pages. Sales took off. The Osaka 5

Soon Yamane was assisted by Tsujita, and two former customers from Lapine, the Shiotani brothers. They didn't stay very long. Tsujita started Fullcount in 1992, while the Shiotani brothers started their own company Warehouse in 1995. Each one followed his own vision of what the perfect jeans should look like. These three however were not the only ones in search of the holy grail of vintage jeans. In 1988, Kobe based fashion manufacturer World Co. had launched Denime under the leadership of Yoshiyuki Hayashi. Six years before that, Shigeharu Tagaki, possibly Japan’s top expert on vintage jeans, had founded Studio D'Artisan. Surprisingly, all these pioneers were located in the same region. This happened partly because they were all friends with the same passion for jeans. "We all knew each other," says Hayashi. "We used to get together and discuss how we could make the best jeans." Local Heroes

This could only have been possible in Osaka's open culture. "People here don't hide information," says Hayashi with a broad grin. "To people in Tokyo the idea that you share information with competitors is incomprehensible."

This closeness and open sharing created an intense rivalry. "We were always very aware of what the others were doing," says Tsujita, "and each of us wanted to do it better." One other dominant aspect of Osaka culture played a major role. "In Tokyo team play is more important," he says. "People follow strict rules. People in Osaka however, are more individualistic and proud. You even see this in baseball. When Tokyo players first play in Osaka, they are shocked how free and undisciplined teams are here. In Osaka everybody wants to do his own thing." Osaka also fosters a strong respect for traditionally made products. "In Tokyo there is a greater focus on trends," says Yamane. "They make something for six months, then throw it out." It didn't hurt that Japanese textile giant Kurabo was based in Osaka, and that Hayashi was backed by another local fashion behemoth, World Co. "Because of World Co., Kurabo went through all the trouble to create vintage denim," says Hayashi. "They would have never done that for a small company. Nobody made selvedge jeans at the time."Making something that nobody made was far from an easy undertaking. The Devil is in the Detail

"In the beginning, we were often told it was impossible," says Yamane. We didn't know how to make the selvedge denim or how the sewing was done. Recreating the rivets and buttons was extremely hard." The Osaka 5 give almost obsessive attention to these details. "Rivets should be made of copper so they eventually get a green-blue colour," says style in progress

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"In the beginning, we were often told it was impossible," remembers Yamane. Today it's the Japanese who set the standards, especially concerning details.

Yamane. "Buttons should be zinc, so they turn white." "We usually use 6 different thicknesses for the sewing threads," says Takeshi Kawata, chief designer of Studio D'artisan. "Because jeans shrink, we also calculate the needle width very carefully. Depending on the location on the jeans, there are 6, 8 or 10 stitches per inch." Showing a similar concern for the stitch, Yamane displays a pair of old faded Evisu jeans. The hemline's fading is interrupted at regular intervals, creating a playful display. "Osaka is known for its openness. People here don't hide information;"

says Yoshiyuki Hayashi, head of Denime and founder of Resolute, in discussing how the jeans rebels shared information.

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"That only happens when you use a chain stitch," he explains proudly. The attention to detail extends to the type of cotton that each company insists on using. "For our best jeans, we only use Memphis cotton," says Studio D'Artisan's Kawata. Fullcount's Tsujita however, swears by Zimbabwe cotton. "It's handpicked, therefore much cleaner and whiter. Because only one crop per year is grown, the cotton grows much bigger. You get a long and fine thread which creates softer, lighter and more durable clothes."

Business as Usual

The pioneers' great advantage in being able to recreate vintage denim has been old power looms that were collecting dust at small factories in nearby Okayama prefecture. The area had developed itself as a manufacturer of student uniforms, but with baby boomers grown up and families becoming smaller, business was bad. When they were approached to recreate vintage denim, they were both available and delighted. Since the five first pioneered vintage jeans, the market has changed greatly. The Japanese

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Through new strategic positioning Denime owner Hitoshi Tsujimoto was able to change the production processes of his business. "That way we could

control the quality better and reduce the costs at the same time."

vintage jeans boom of the late '90s enticed a large number of companies to jump onto the bandwagon. When this boom started to fade, many Okayama factories began creating their own brands. The well-known brand Momotaro for example was begun by Collect, the textile mill that first worked with Fullcount. Large companies have taken over two of the pioneers. Studio D'artisan was purchased by an Okayama company, and Denime by entrepreneur Hitoshi Tsujimoto, who in the late '80s developed his own vintage jeans line for his fashion retail chain Nylon.

Tsujimoto has cut out companies like Kurabo and Kaihara and contracts directly with dozens of small factories. This allowed him to change the production process. "We make so much denim at one time that we can control the quality better while reducing the cost. Before I bought Denime, the company's jeans sold for 35,000 yen (310 euros), now they're 25,000 yen (222 euros). But it takes a lot of money." With 16 companies in his portfolio, money hardly seems a problem for this astute businessman. This gives the impression that from now on the focus will be on profits, no longer on

the quest to create the perfect jeans. However, with Denime no longer in the hands of World, Hayashi has left the company. In 2010 he set up a new company Resolute. "My aim is to make a perfect replica of the Levi's 501," the 55-year old Hayashi says with fire in his eyes. "Nobody has achieved that yet." Perhaps the race for the perfect jeans is back on again... www.evisu.com www.fullcount.co.jp www.dartisan.co.jp www.denime.jp www.ware-house.co.j

The source of all strength. Studio D’Artisan – in photo Chief Designer Takeshi Kawata – is considered one of the first vintage jean pioneers in Japan.

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Aspiring designers in Osaka are conquering the land of the rising sun. Whether they were born or first learned their trade here, they all feel connected to the port city.

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Aguri Sagimori

Born in Neyagawa, Osaka in 1985, Aguri Sagimori graduated from the Vantan Design Institute of Fashion in 2007. That same year she won the New Designer Fashion Grand Prix Prize for Excellence and the Nagoya Fashion Contest 2007 Grand Prix. In March 2008 Sagimori made her debut at the Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo as a designer for Atelier X-Seed, a subdivision of Vantan Design Institute. In March 2010 she established her own company, Auguri Co., Ltd. In spite of her young age and short career, Sagimori has managed to make her collections stand out at the Japan Fashion Week. They usually attract a surprisingly large audience for a designer as young as Sagimori. Her designs present a concept of feminine beauty that is stark, austere and tough. Many dark colours—black and grey tend to dominate with simple straight lines and little to no decoration. In a country where cute is a cult, Sagimori stands out in being anything but cute. This is fashion for strong women with a purpose, who are comfortable with who they are. Though conceptual, it is highly wearable. Aguri Sagimori, 170-0012 Tokio/Japan, T 0081.3.57042186, www.vantan.com/agurisagimori/

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Hiroko Koshino

One of Japan's best known designers, Hiroko Koshino occupies a central position in Japanese fashion. Her fashion empire includes perfume and cosmetics in addition to clothing. She has even designed the uniforms of the Japan gymnastic team. Koshino was born in Kishiwada, Osaka in 1937. She graduated from Bunka Fashion College, Japan's most respected fashion design college in 1961 and opened her haute couture atelier in Osaka's Shinsaibashi in 1964. In 1978 Koshino became the first Japanese designer to show in Rome's Alta Moda. In 1982 she began showing at the Paris Collection. She stopped in 1993, saying it was a waste of money. Koshino draws her inspiration from anything that catches her eye, from street fashion to ethnic culture. Her drive, energy and productivity are enormous and make it very hard on her staff, who find it extremely difficult to keep up with her. "Once I get going," she explains, "I can't stop. Ideas just keep coming." This is obvious from her fashion shows, which always feature an astounding number of designs. Koshino's work is thoroughly feminine and gorgeous, and exudes an unmistakable aura of luxury and quality. Koshino is also an accomplished calligraphy artist—an art form that is highly respected in Japan—and her work has been displayed in several museums. Hiroko Koshino, 151-0051 Tokio/Japan, T 0081.3.54742932, www.hirokokoshino.com

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Hidenobu Yasui

Hidenobu Yasui attended both Osaka Mode Gakuen College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. In 2007 Yasui returned to Japan to seek high-quality Japanese clothing fabrics and sewing techniques. He considers himself more craftsman and artisan than fashion designer, making him a true son of Osaka, a city where there is much pride in traditional craftsmanship. "I am passionate about opening up new ways to perceive the world with a sense of Japanese beauty, honour and sensitivity that are passed on from the past," he writes in his self-introduction. He combines his interest in traditional techniques with a deep love for new ideas in materials, always employing his unique understanding of the Japanese aesthetic. This results in clothing that feels both modern and nostalgic, both Japanese and Western, yet remains thoroughly feminine. It's stylish, elegant and cultured and has made his designs especially popular with women between 25 and 35 who can relate to this post-modern fusion of East and West. Hidenobu Yasui, 182-0022 Tokio/Japan,

T 0081.42.4850155, www.hidenobuyasui.com

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Shinichiro Shimojo: Under Castle

Shinichiro Shimojo is a rare combination of fashion designer, graphic designer and author. Born in Osaka in 1971, he has been active in Tokyo, New York and Fukuoka, a city on Japan's southern island of Kyushu. Shimojo's brand Under Castle was launched in 2007 and has been repeatedly shown at the Japan Fashion Week. Although Under Castle is officially listed as an underwear brand, it's actually much more than that. Shimojo believes it should be possible to wear underwear as outerwear so he calls his creations "Cross Wear", inner wear specifically designed to be worn as outerwear. Like many other designers in Japan, Shimojo is very much inspired by the high quality synthetic fibres that the country develops. In the past he's utilized an advanced lightweight material invented by textile manufacturer Gunze called "hot magic" that heats itself up and is soft to the touch. Under Castle, 810-0022 Fukuoka/Japan, T 0081.92.7250882, www.undercastle.com

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Gut's Dynamite Cabarets

Launched by Cabaret Aki (1974) and Jackal Kuzu (1974) in 2006, Gut's Dynamite Cabarets origins lie in the sub culture of alternative night clubs. Their initial designs were bold, colourful and loud: big hair and animal prints worn by cross dressing models and drag queens. Since then the company's designs have however quickly transformed into more mainstream fashion. The two designers have purposely toned down the loudness of their designs and have become a lot more subtle in the process, making their clothes attractive to a much wider audience. Interestingly, this hasn't cut into the duo's ability to create exciting clothing. They clearly haven't lost their touch.Both designers haven't lost their love for fun either. At each season's collection, they manage to offer a little fun surprise. During their March 2010 show for example, guests were greeted with bear hugs from a huge pink bunny. At the end of the show, the bunny's head went off and it turned out to be Jackal Kuzu. The brand produces both mens- and womenswear. Gut's Dynamite Cabarets, 151-0051 Tokio/Japan, T 0081.3.63160095,

www.g-d-cabarets.jp

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Osaka Fashion

Whether it's luxurious flagship stores or a market for arts and crafts in front of a Buddhist temple, Osaka offers the fashion world lots of options plus a fashionloving clientele.

Comme des Garçons •••••••••••••••••

Midosuji Avenue dominates Osaka's southern centre. During the past few years a short stretch of this important thoroughfare has attracted a highly concentrated cluster of international luxury brands. When a major foreign fashion brand settles in Osaka, it's often this location they select. Brands like Gucci, Dior, Franck Muller, Miu Miu and countless others can be found within a few minutes' walk from each other: all right on the busy tree-lined avenue. Hidden away in an unpretentious side street off this broad avenue is the Osaka flagship store of Rei Kawakubo's famous brand, Comme des Garçons. The design of the shop echoes Kawakubo's clothing designs, austere and partly anti-fashion. The walls are painted a bright primary red. It almost seems as if Kawakubo wanted to attract attention away from her clothes, as if that were possible. In 2009 the shop was extended with an art space on the second floor. Named Six after the brand's defunct magazine of the nineties, the gallery has hosted high quality exhibitions of artists such as Yayoi Kusama, Yoko Tadanori, David Lynch and Daido Moriyama. Comme des Garçons Osaka, 3-12-22 Minami-Senba Chuoku, 542-0081 Osaka/Japan, T 0081.6.49636150, www.comme-des-garcons.com

Elttob Tep Issey Miyake ••••••••••••••••••••••••

Opened in April 2007, Issey Miyake's Osaka flagship store—the company's first multi-brand store in Japan— goes by the fascinating name of Elttob Tep, reverse for PET Bottle. No hidden deep meaning apparently, just having fun. Fun is what this huge 419 square metre store is all about. It carries all of Issey Miyake's lines, such as Issey Miyake, Pleats Please, Haat, Cauliflower and Bao Bao, beautifully displayed in an inviting wide open space. At Elttob Tep only staff and visitors have legs; the displays themselves hang from thin metal strings, never making contact with the floor. The merchandise appears to float in mid air. It creates an incredibly airy and relaxed, almost mystical, atmosphere that makes you want to stay just a little bit longer. What makes this shop especially worth a visit is the never ending introductions of other ground-breaking emerging fashion brands, like Heath, Hidenobu Yasui, Mikio Sakabe, Writtenafterwards and recently even colourful artwork by artist Naro Tamiya, now employed with Miyake Design Studio. All of this is livened up with events and playful displays. Elttob Tep Issey Miyake, 4-11-28 Minami-Senba Chuoku, 542-0081 Osaka/Japan, T 0081.6.62518887, www.elttobtep.com

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Uniqlo Global Flagship Store ••••••••••••••••••••••••

Japan's only global flagship store of now world famous brand Uniqlo is located not in Tokyo, but right in Osaka's centuries old Shinsaibashi shopping street. Opened on 1 October 2010, it's the company's fifth global flagship store. Uniqlo's other global flagship stores are in New York (2006), London (2007), Paris (2009) and Shanghai (2010). The enormous store measures no less than 2,640 square metres of display space on five floors. It became the first Uniqlo store to carry the "+J" line developed with minimalist German fashion designer Jil Sander. Although the selection of Osaka over Tokyo seems curious at first sight, the company had good reasons. Uniqlo established its first largeformat store in Osaka's Shinsaibashi in 2004. The model was used in places like New York and London, and became the company's most important growth engine. Osaka is famous for its intensely discerning consumers who are extremely difficult to satisfy. This offers companies that start new concepts here an experimental laboratory as it were. If you can make it in Osaka, you can make it anywhere. Uniqlo probably banks on that; by 2020 it aims to raise overseas sales to 3 trillion yen (26.7 billion euros).

Uniqlo Shinsaibashi, 1-2-17 Shinsaibashi Chuoku, 542-0085 Osaka/Japan, T 0081.6.49639172, www.uniqlo.com/shinsaibashi/

Namba Parks

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What makes fashion shopping in Osaka especially attractive and convenient is its many "fashion buildings" and shopping malls. Many of the very best fashion shops in Osaka are located in these buildings and malls, often within a short walking distance of each other. You can dart from building to building and mall to mall, making a day of shopping here almost heavenly. Osaka's hottest shopping mall at the moment is undoubtedly Namba Parks, located at the back of Namba Station in Osaka's southern center. Developed by legendary American architect Jon Jerde, the 25,500 square metre complex houses 250 shops and restaurants on 8 floors. It is so large that it had to be developed in stages. The first half opened in October 2003, the second one in April 2007. Conceived as a large park, it has a huge rooftop garden that gradually ascends and gives the complex its unmistakable look. Namba Parks houses a dizzying array of brands, both domestic and international, such as Ships, Comme des Garçons, Urban Research, Timberland, Diesel, Onitsuka Tiger and Galliano. It also features three of the Osaka 5, Osaka's pioneering vintage denim brands: Denime, Fullcount and Warehouse. Namba Parks, 2-10-70 Namba-Naka Naniwaku, 556-0011 Osaka/Japan, T 0081.6.66447100, www.nambaparks.com

Chion-ji Handicraft Market ••••••••••••••••••••••••

Not in Osaka, but such a short train ride away that it needs to be mentioned, is the delightful handicraft market held at one of Kyoto's many ancient temples. Every 15th of the month from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm, the grounds of the Buddhist temple of Chion-ji are transformed into a huge handicraft market with almost two hundred vendors, each one having just a few square metres to display their wares. Started in 1987, the market has grown into West Japan's premier outdoor market for handicrafts. Everything handmade is welcome at this market and you can find an amazing range of handmade items, from food to furniture to pottery. The majority of the vendors sell fashion items; mainly clothing and jewellery, but also other items. There are several vendors that sell exquisite handmade leather bags or shoes, lots of designers selling their own handmade clothing, and countless jewellery designers offering original accessories. It is a great opportunity to meet a large number of deeply motivated Japanese crafts people personally and discover their unique creations. Chion-ji Tezukuri Ichi, 103 Tanakamonzen-cho Sakyoku, 606-8225 Kyoto/Japan, T 0081.75.7711631, www.tedukuri-ichi.com

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* [oˌosaka] More fashion per square metre than any place else in the world: That's the way the Japanese see it. And then there's Osaka, known throughout the land for its avid fashion enthusiasts Western trends there take on an unmistakable aesthetic that has more to do with the glittering street scene than the international catwalks. Photos: Kjeld Duits, Production: Mika Kojima

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Jacket: N4 qlo T-shirt: Uni e sers: Vintag Scarf, Trou Shoes: N4

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an influential fashion mecca would To say that Paris is back again as capitol was never missing from be going too far. Actually the French ion set. New is the fact that so the calendar of the international fash from central and northern many buyers, agents and fashion folk And with good reason, as s. Pari Europe are setting their sights on yles from the City of Love. shown by style in progress Streetst .olaf-daniel-meyer.com /www nagement.de. Photos: Olaf-Daniel Meyer Production: Sabine Berlipp/www.blossomma

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Jean Philippe Ab Trousers: Givenc ela. Hat: Costume National, Ve hy, Shoes: Yves st: Neil Barrett, Blouse: Balencia Saint Laurent ga, Scarf: Yves Saint Laurent,

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Vuitton, Trousers: Dior, Belt: Chrome Hearts, Shoes: Vintage William Gonzalez. Jacket: Vintage, T-shirt: Vintage, Scarf: Louis

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Pauline Bernos. Jacket: French Connection, Dress: Yumi, Bag: Vintage, Shoes: Repetto

Ann Catherine. Jacket: Chanel, Blouse: Vintage, Shorts: KitsunĂŠ, Bag: Bottega Veneta, Shoes: Melissa Troupe + Alexandre Herchco vitch

irt: es: Jam, Scarf, hat: Vintage, T-sh Maurizio Francesconi (left). Shad sum, Shoes: Trippen Pror erry Burb : sers Trou , Men t Velve Reset, , Jacket: Paul Harnden, T-shirt: Maria Bonavita. Shades: Jam s: Carpe Diem Shoe 10, ero Num Bag: 77, Jewellery: Bijoux, Jeans: April

Simon Periou. Hat: Urban Outfitters, Pullover: Vintage, Shorts: Topshop Men, Bag: AAA, Shoes: Sandro

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Emanuele Bicocchi (left). Martin Margiela, Jewellery: Emanuele Bicocchi, Trousers: Vintage, Shoes: Martin Margiela Guilia Diamanti. Dress: Vintage, Jewellery: Emanuele Bicocchi, Tights: Wolford, Bag: Balenciaga, Boots: Stella McCartney

Olivier Feryn. Vest: Vin Necklace: Vintage, Wa tage, Cardigan: Armor Lux, Bow: Alexis Ma tch: Boss, Bag: Louis bille, Shoes: CafĂ¨ Noir Vuitton, Jeans: Cheap Monday, style in progress

ge, Skirt, Shoes: Primark Rachael Houston. Jacket: Vinta

Douglas Keisler. Outfit: Paul Smit h, Vintage

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Take Hirukawa. Outfit: Vintage

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Prytz, Celine Aagaard. Hat: Borsalino, Jacket: Vintage, Necklace: Camilla Trousers: J Dauphin, Bag: Balenciaga, Boots: Billi Bi

Hugr煤n Arnad贸ttir. Dress: Bernhard Willhelm, Tights, Shoes: Kron by Kronkron

Guyneth Tang. Outfit: Vintage

Kazuo Miyashita. Shades: RayBan, Suit, shirt, tie: his own desi gn, Shoes: Trickers

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WHAT'S COMFORTABLE

Photos Marcel Gonzalez-Ortiz/www.gonzalez-ortiz.com /// Styling/Production Roswitha Wieser/roswitha.wieser@salzburg.co.at and Karin Siller/office@stoffwexel.at /// Hair/make-up Karin Bogner/karinbogner@aon.at /// Models Magdalena, www.link2look.com Paolo, www.stellamodels.com

Suit Windsor Necklace Goti

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Jacket Jagger & Evans Gloves Eska Trousers Marc Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Polo Belt HTC Boots Paco Gil right Sports jacket Roda Shirt Aglini Tie Altea Trousers Jey Coleman Braces Albert Thurston

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Sports jacket René Lezard Gilet Jey Coleman Shirt Jey Coleman Pocket square Roda Trousers Moncler Shoes Marc O’Polo

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Hat Vintage Sports Jacket John Sheep Shirt Riviera Club Tie Altea

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Special thanks to Mia Shoes and Reyer, Hallein.

Dress Villa Gaia

Coat Odeeh Jacket Seven For All Mankind Dress Yummie Tummie Necklace Chan Luu Shoes Buffalo

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Next Generation of Ladies and Gentlemen Photos Ugur Orhanoglu www.uguro.de Photo Assistant Özge Çelik Styling Julius Forgo www.basics-berlin.de Styling Assistant Laura Scholz Hair/make-up Christiane Buchholz www.christiane-buchholz.com Production Kay Alexander Plonka Models Alisa Feist www.pearlmanagement.de Kady Taylor www.seedsmanagement.de Tom Schottenloher www.m4models.de Martin Kuhlmann, Tino Wolf www.vivamodels.de

British virgin wool vest with watch pocket Windsor Shirt with stand-up collar Haversack Leather cuffs Vintage Polish army belt from 1936 Vintage Washed chinos Nigel Cabourn Virgin wool blazer with leather appliqués on the sleeve Windsor Full brogue lace-up boots of horsehide Tricker’s Swiss Army saddlebag with straps Dukes

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Trilby hat Mayser of Heimat Berlin Trench coat Burberry left Knitted jacket with Aran cable pattern Inis Meรกin Silk scarf, Swedish army belt Vintage Rubber boots Dolphin Hunter right Lambskin jacket Greenland with lambskin lining Meindl Knitted jacket Monty with toggles GRP Wing collar shirt Woolrich Woolen Mills Rinsed straight leg jeans Gilded Age Calf-length suede lace-up boots 8173 Red Wing Shoes

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left Arctic parka Woolrich Harris Tweed vest Nigel Cabourn Gingham checked shirt Boglioli Loose fit jeans Nevada Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vintage Clothing Engineer boots 2990 Red Wing Shoes right Cap Hatteras Stetson Military jacket Barbour "To Ki To" Edition Donigal cardigan Inis MeĂĄin Shirt Nigel Cabourn Army Trousers Fraiser Closed Socks Burlington Light-coloured suede Chukka boots Alden

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left Washed cardigan Szen Shark collar blouse Aglini Leather belt with pin buckle Vintage Jodhpurs with flounces Dondup Quilted jacket Mackintosh Polished calfskin polo boots Ludwig Reiter right Cap Hatteras Stetson Lambskin jacket with double button-facing Cucinelli Cashmere polo with denim collar Cucinelli Pleated chinos Cucinelli Leather belt with prong buckle H端ftgold Socks Burlington Calfskin Derby brogues Tricker's

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Individually dyed field jacket Ten c Hoodie with shawl collar Inis Meรกin Checked button-down shirt Windsor Peccary leather gloves Roeckl Washed chinos Clifton Closed Rubber boots in leather look Superga

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left Quilted down coat with hood Blauer Blouse Aglini Bow-tie VC by Volkan Celik Worn-in skinny jeans Current/Elliott Washed horsehide lace-up boots Shoto right Loden cape with rabbitskin collar Schneiders Blouse Aglini Bow-tie VC by Volkan Celik Worn-in skinny jeans PRPS High boots with block heel Shabbies

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left Checked sports jacket of cotton/linen blend Boglioli Mountain Oxford shirt Nigel Cabourn Merino scarf, suede belt Vintage Heavy-used straight jeans Gilded Age Suede Chukka boots Alden right Full-grain lamb velour blazer with contrasting seams Meindl Printed silk scarf Vintage Washed cardigan Szen Narrow leather belt Vintage Straight slim unspoiled jeans Waister Denham the Jeanmaker Socks Burlington Full brogue leather lace-up boots Trickerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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Special thanks to the team of 14 oz. Berlin for their support and for providing the private shopping apartment on the 2nd floor as location as well as to Shane from Burg&Schild Berlin for his Areo Leather Jackett and the Stetson hats.

Fedora hat Faustmann von Heimat Berlin Horsehide jacket Aero Leather Burma uniform shirt Nigel Cabourn Washed cargo trousers Double RL by Ralph Lauren High leather lace-up boots 1906 Red Wing Shoes Holdall with leather straps Filson Bags

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LOOK FEEL Retail News &

New playgrounds are opening for grownups: the OC Concept Store on Madison Avenue, Marc O'Polo's 21st store inAustria and the worldwide largest women's shoe department at Selfridges in London.

Fashion multitasker Orianne Collins who designs jewellery has just opened her second OC Concept Store.

Exclusive Design Goes SoHo OC CONCEPT STORE

NEW YORK

Across the street from Barneys on Madison Avenue, shoppers can make purchases directly – or with a virtual twist. Surrounded by showpieces from Caran d'Ache, Goldvish, Pinel & Pinel and Buben & Zörweg, the staff deftly produce colour charts and patterns from behind the counter so customers can place individually tailored orders. To get the creative juices flowing, a wardrobe trunk dubbed the New Dandy has been placed near the entrance. This model, especially designed for the OC Concept Store by T. T. Trunk of Paris, offers room for whiskey decanters, glasses, cigars including a humidor, a fold-out poker table and poker chips. Anyone who orders a trunk to suit their own purposes will be shown a 3-D image of the product shortly thereafter. Hologram store displays are an upcoming feature that will allow customers to design everything from a watch to a yacht to suit their own tastes. Christophe Pillet has created an ideal atmosphere with 300 square metres of floor space. The French architect has left the ground floor in white, while the underground floor is somewhat more subdued, with its integrated caviar & champagne bar and VIP area. The wide selection of products ranges from cufflinks to yachts and villas. In addition to this sublime variety, creations by Orianne Collins ensure a clear connection to the flagship OC Concept Store in St. Tropez. Festively lit display cases feature the designer's own line of jewellery, including exclusive articles like a watch designed by Richard Mille – which is limited to ten pieces. OC Concept Store, 655 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10065/USA, T 001.212.7599220, www.occonceptstore.com

Pre-eminently British in Switzerland HACKETT LONDON

ZURICH

With a sales area of 265 square metres, the label Hackett London is now presenting its merchandise to customers in Switzerland. In October 2010 the traditional haberdasher opened its first shop in the German-speaking region of Switzerland – at a suitably prestigious location in Zurich. The interior design in traditional Georgian style creates a cosy atmosphere with quintessential British charm. All of the rooms were decorated by interior designer John Soane who bespoke tailored the spaces to match the displayed collections, which include Mayfair, Little Britons and Aston Martin Racing. The shop's main attraction is the bar and lounge area, which resembles an English gentleman's club, with all the flair of the brand: typically Hackett, typically British! Hackett London, Paradeplatz 4, 8001 Zurich/Switzerland, T 0041.44.2110077, www.hackett.com

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Number 21 Opened MARC Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;POLO

VIENNA

The Marc O'Polo brand opened its 21st Austrian shop in October 2010. The shop features 450 square metres of space foring display the label's premium casual womenswear and menswear lines. The festive opening ceremonies were organized in cooperation with Wiener and Wienerin magazines, which resulted in a high concentration of local celebrities attending the evening festivities. The shop's design concept reflects Marc O'Polo's design language: natural materials in dialogue with urban style elements and Nordic restraint. Marc O'Polo, Rotenturmstrasse 19, 1010 Vienna/Austria, www.marc-o-polo.com

First Shop in the British Fashion Capital DENHAM THE JEANMAKER

LONDON

The Denham the Jeanmaker denim label will soon open its first shop in the British fashion capital. The store is located in the popular Shoreditch fashion district and covers four storeys housing both the actual shop and two storeys for showrooms. Scores of guests attended the opening on Charlotte Road and used the opportunity to celebrate the arrival of the fashionable label in Old Blighty and to admire the design of the shop. Denham is presenting its entire collection for women and men in the London shop, with a focus on the label's elaborate jeans styles. Denham the Jeanmaker, 32 Charlotte Road, London, EC2A 3PB/UK, www.denhamthejeanmaker.com

World's Largest Women's Shoe Department SELFRIDGES

LONDON

British actress Gemma Arterton kicked off London Fashion Week this September, opening the doors to the new women's shoe department at Selfridges. The largest of its kind in the world, The Shoe Galleries are 35,000 square feet of luxury from award-winning architect Jamie Fobert. Six salons featuring products from the best of the high street, including Topshop with its first shoe shop outside of its own stores, are encircled by 11 brand boutiques including Chanel, Dior and Prada. Each boutique was exclusively designed for Selfridges with the "apartments" theme in mind. Jimmy Choo's Tamara Mellon drew inspiration from her New York apartment with hand-painted wallpaper, gold-foil ceiling and a faux tusk table, while Christian Louboutin brought his Paris home to the Galleries with objets d'art, a trompe l'oeil chandelier and digital print wallpaper. The Shoe Galleries feature nearly 5,000 styles of footwear in what is akin to a gallery space where each shoe is exhibited like a work of art. Special features include bespoke tables made of vintage shoe lasts, vintage cinema seats in plush fuchsia velvet and a view over the suspended seasonal garden through full-height windows. Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London, W1A 1AB/UK, www.selfridges.com

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Imaginative Bags for the Taking GEORGE GINA & LUCY

FRANKFURT

Colourful, innovative and unique – that’s the world of the George Gina & Lucy handbag label. The constant hype surrounding the most coveted carabiner of the fashion world, now going on five years, has revealed itself since September in 145 square metres of retail space: A place for the first single-label store was found in Frankfurt, not far from the birthplace of George Gina & Lucy in Lagenselbold. With a mix of modern and vintage elements, the store concept achieves an air of nonconformity and vibrancy. Old store mannequins from the '60s, colourful light arrangements and opulent baroque tables convey the philosophy of the label. The store offers plenty of presentation space for the classic nylon models and a growing number of surprising special collections and accessories. Only small numbers of the luxurious leather lines are carried. George Gina & Lucy Store, Zeil 127/An der Katharinenkirche, 60313 Frankfurt/Germany, T 0049.69.13389490, www.george-gina-lucy.com District1

Reach for the Sky!

KAUFHAUS STEFFL, THE 6TH FLOOR & DISTRICT1

The 6th Floor

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VIENNA

Since September 2010, Kaufhaus Steffl in Vienna’s Kärntnerstrasse has adopted two new concepts: the pop-up store District 1 and the shoe shopper's heaven The 6th Floor. "Reach for the sky!" is the motto of The 6th Floor that strives to join the likes of Harrods, Lafayette, etc. "Due to its diverse product range, The 6th Floor is currently one-of-a-kind in German-speaking countries," stresses Managing Director Kerstin Gutsche-Rink. The motto "shoes, champagne and chocolate" promises VIP shopping, top service and uninterrupted trying on of clothes in a private room. Over an area of 1,000 square metres, The 6th Floor presents one hundred exclusive brands from Buttero to Yves Saint Laurent, which are mainly featured in womenswear ranges. The remaining 20 per cent of the range is targeted at the male customers of Gentlemen's Shoe Club. The Sneaker Gallery offers unisex products. One level down, District 1 celebrates urban cool. The interior design created by BMW architects and partners and the shop designer Schweitzer emanates metropolitan charm. Gold for the ladies, silver for the gentlemen – The colours of the hanging rails create clarity and the industrial-style floor is reminiscent of the architecture of the Big Apple. It's no coincidence that the shop's name was inspired by the trendy meatpacking district in the southwest of Manhattan. Internationality is a common theme featured throughout the dynamic shop concept – from the shop design to the product range to the staff. "A party dress by Halston Heritage, a jacket by Peuterey – The shop celebrates a variety of styles that contrast but can also be mixed and matched," explains Managing Director Liane Taucher-Hohenbichler. Emotions also play an important role. True to the motto "enjoy your fashion," the aim is for every customer to feel at ease throughout their entire shopping experience. The 6th Floor und District 1, Kaufhaus Steffl, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna/Austria, T 0043.1.51431-0, www.steffl-vienna.at

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Martina Philipp is her own personal market niche. If perfect customer service and a cozy living room atmosphere are what matters, then this is the right place for you.

MAX LAURENZ

WIENER NEUSTADT

Real Gem

Martina Philipp, a native of Wiener Neustadt, has opened a new shop and thus carved out a market niche for herself: Max Laurenz resembles a walk-in wardrobe as a consumer temple … and this is precisely what the innovator wants. Text: Michael Ginthör. Photos: Doris Erben

A visit to the shop in Wiener Neustadt, 50 kilometres south of Vienna: The town was founded in the 12th century as a bastion against the Hungarians by the Babenbergs from the ransom money paid for Richard the Lionheart. Today, the oversized cathedral and the picturesquely crumbling town walls bear witness to the town's former strategic significance. As a shopping hub, on the other hand, Wiener Neustadt is still central. In many respects, it's the better, friendlier, less capricious Vienna that truly profits from its strategic position in the middle of nowhere. Martina Philipp certainly can't complain about her customers' lack of purchasing power. Shortly after the opening of her "Max Laurenz" shop, which is named after her son, she could boast a regular clientele that it would otherwise have taken years to develop. This can be attributed to her almost 20 years of business experience, as well as to a certain celebrity factor: Due in part to Philipp's 10-year relationship/marriage with Austria's national goalkeeper Michael Konsel, she has a special place in the hearts of the local businesspeople. It seemed natural for Philipp to combine her personal charm with her fashion expertise and open a shop that strives to be

more of a living room than a standard boutique. "I don't just sell my customers a few shirts here," she explains. "I offer them full service." This includes a lively chat about life in general plus a complete styling consultation. She not only detects a lack of product variety or quality in fashion, but also in the direction of the consumers: "Today, it's worse than ever," she says. "There are 10,000 magazines and a never-ending list of styling tips that the public are expected to imitate. It's totally confusing …" Max Laurenz certainly doesn't overwhelm customers with its surplus stock. Philipp describes her range as both naïve and cosmopolitan. Her target group: mainly customers over the age of 30. "Today's 40-year-olds generally look fantastic and are more or less the new 30-year-olds," she says. The classic Ralph Lauren business look no longer works for them. The trends are focussing more on playful garments that are "somehow classic, but also very laidback." And the fashion nation Denmark is once again a trendsetter. The Nordic irony, possibly with that certain romantic touch by Malene Birger, is a perfect fit for a) the people and b) Martina Philipp's remaining range: Paul & Joe Sister from Paris, Silver Jeans and Piu Piu …

Max Laurenz. Domplatz 15, 2700 Wiener Neustadt/Austria T 0043.664.4498730 Opening: 23.3.2010. Owner: Martina Philipp. Staff: 1. Sales area: 70 sqm. Labels: Antik Batik, J Brand Jeans, Essentiel, Fummel & Kram, Majestic, Malene Birger, Paul & Joe – Sister, Piu Piu, Silver.

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JASPERS

DÜSSELDORF

Paradise for Shopping Couples The name Jaspers is well known when it comes to fashionable sportswear. Now a new store has been added to the Jaspers store in the old town district. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Peter Schaffrath

With its exposed brick walls and stacked wooden crates that serve as places to display jeans, the style of the shop reveals people at work who were pros. Leather-covered pommel horses invite customers to take a seat, while vintage 1962 office lamps from the GDR put the product range into perspective. The effect is harmonious – rustic yet metropolitan – and it strikes a chord with shoppers hunting for brands with a tradition behind them. Changing Direction

The owner of the new Jaspers store is named Norman Jaspers. For ten years he handled sales and distribution for brands like the Redskins and White Sox, until he changed direction and joined the business of his parents. They operated a large business offering classic sportswear, first on Duisburger Strasse and later on nearby Nordstrasse. Soon Jaspers began introducing fashionable sportswear, such as Napapijri, as one of the first distributors in Germany. He gradually transformed the store's product range into one with casual street wear featuring brands like Scotch & Soda, Replay, Diesel, Energie and Levi's.

Jaspers Lifestyle Fashion & Denim. 40213 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.30187444, www.jaspers.de.com Opening: 6 August 2010. Owner: Norman Jaspers. Staff: 5. Sales area: 80 sqm. Womenswear: Labels include 81 Hours, BD Baggies, Denham, Johnny Was, Kuyichi, La Fée Maraboutée, Oakwood, Rockstar, Tigha, Elliot Mann. Menswear: Labels include BD Baggies, Denham, Edwin Vintage, Gilded Age, Kuyichi, Nigel Cabourn, Tigha, Cold Method. Accessories: Labels include Aunts & Uncles, Dukes, N. D. C., Red Wing, Taschendieb, Buddha-to-Buddha, Gem Kingdom.

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When his parents decided to retire, Jaspers opened the first shop of his own on Wallstrasse, with clothing for men and women. It was located in a charming, narrow little house on a side street that tourists stroll down when they're looking for hidden treasures. But when he discovered through the Immoscout the unoccupied shop location on Carlsplatz – a popular square in the old town district with a daily market and fashionable stores like Identità Italiana in the immediate vicinity – he seized the opportunity and opened the second Jaspers Lifestyle Fashion & Denim Store last August. Down-to-Earth, Rustic and with a History

Jaspers specialises in authentic, rugged brands for the menswear range in particular. Topping the list is Nigel Cabourn, who uses traditional materials to create true favourites, followed by Gilded Age, Red Wing and Levi's Vintage. These are all names with histories that need to be told. "These are brands with roots, but they're also ones that can't be found in every store," he says. The store also carries items such as jeans from Denham and Edwin Vintage, "When purchasing, peacoats from Kuyichi, shirts I increasingly consider fair trade practices, from BD Baggies and belts from sustainability, and Dukes plus old Swiss Army belts especially, quality matters. These are the that are painstakingly waxed, attributes my customers brushed and stitched by hand. really value." For women Jaspers offers a product range that mixes feminine articles with items that have a more sporty or hard-rock attitude, including playful pieces from La Fée Maraboutée, tunics with floral embroidery from Johnny Was, Tigha leather jackets and biker jeans from Rockstar. In the shop on Wallstrasse, Jaspers now focuses completely on women with a product range that is slightly younger and, with selected Pronto Moda pieces from Italy, a bit lower in price. In contrast, the concept of the Carlsplatz store has been maintained. "There are a lot of couples shopping on Saturday – the city is practically bursting at the seams," he says. On these days, existing clientele who know and understand the product lines mix with other customers who merely shake their heads when confronted with a top price of 2,000 euros for an arctic parka from Nigel Cabourn. But Norman Jaspers keeps it low-key and doesn't try to convert the non-believers. "He loves the products – they are his great passion – but he doesn't try to force anything on anybody," says Ula Melikidis, an employee. And this is precisely what appeals to many of his regular clientele who travel from cities such as Düsseldorf, Münster and Wuppertal, or even Holland to shop in his stores.

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Harmonious interior: Norman Jaspers presents authentic pieces in an authentic setting.

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Fink's new store has an easy to recognise signature that's both modern and timeless.

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INNSBRUCK

A Family Business with Modern Zeitgeist Exclusive fashion in an architecturally impressive atmosphere: Fashion retail family Fink has updated their tried-and-true concept with a new 800 square metre flagship store on Innsbruck's most famous street of shops. Text: Lisa Gold. Photos: By Fink’s Woman

The venerable house of fashion on Maria-Theresien-Strasse in the heart of Innsbruck's historic city centre now gleams in renewed splendour. The spacious store presents refined aesthetics on three storeys, where modern architectural elements complement the historic character of Innsbruck's heritage-listed downtown buildings. Old marble columns have been re-staged as a perfect match for the sophisticatedly understated shop furnishings. But the new store is anything but purely minimalist: Baroque elements lighten up the shopfittings and lend a touch of luxury. A shop-in-shop from Schumacher is also perfectly integrated into this lifestyle world.

paradise of footwear can be found on the basement level. Brands including Hogan and Stuart Weitzman are designed to appeal to the store's numerous regular customers as well as the countless tourists that visit Innsbruck. What's the common denominator of the by Fink's woman brands? Wearability combined with cutting-edge style. "The articles should have a certain something. That's important to us," states Paul Fink, who runs the company with his wife Carina and sister Susanne Haid-Fink. The Fink family and their team emphasise customer service and setting fashion examples. "We're passionate about fashion, and our customers notice this," says Carina Fink. "Fashion should subtly emphasize one's individual personality." Tradition Goes Modern

The familiar, seemingly effortless approach to fashion runs in the family. Paul Fink Senior, who founded Fink's in 1959, worked as a master tailor. "We continue to see ourselves as a traditional family operation today, while staying in touch with the fashion zeitgeist," describes Carina Fink the company's philosophy. This synthesis of tradition and modernity gives Fink's an outstanding reputation well beyond womenswear. In Innsbruck the family also operates a by Fink's Man shop in addition to a Hugo Boss and Furla store.

That Certain Something

The store's brand mix continues the company's established recipe for success: accessible luxury from Burberry or Michael Kors paired with established womenswear brands such as St. Emile and Windsor. And an entire floor has been dedicated to accessories and shoes – the

Shop owner Susanne HaidFink, Paul and Carina Fink (from left) describe their firm as "a traditional family business that never forgets the modern zeitgeist."

By Fink's Woman. Maria-Theresien-Strasse 24, 6020 Innsbruck/Austria, T 0043.512.572377, www.finks.at Opening: 24.09.2010. Owners: Paul and Carina Fink, Susanne Haid-Fink. Staff: 12. Sales area: 800 sqm. Womenswear: 5 Preview, Aglini, Allude, Almost Famous, Armani Jeans, Blugirl by Blumarine, Burberry, Citizen of Humanity, Custo, Drykorn, Etiqueta Negra, Fay, Flowers for Friends, Goldsign, Gwynedds, High, Jagger & Evans, Liu Jo, Metradamo, Michael Kors, Nationality, Orwell, Paisley Park, Patrizia Pepe, Paula Ka Paris, Schumacher, St.Emile, Style Butler, Vintage, Windsor. Accessories, Shoes: Bikkembergs, Burberry, Café Noir, Caterina Lucchi, Etiqueta Negra, Francesco Biasia, Gabs Firenze, Hogan, Mascerano, Michael Kors, Pretty Ballerinas, Roda, Sofia C., Stuart Weitzmann, Ugg Boots, Vic Matié.

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“We're passionate about the products we carry and believe that everything is in the detail,” says co-founder Robert Patterson of Revolver’s eclectic and discerningly handpicked selection.

REVOLVER

SAN FRANCISCO

Point Blank: Refined American Style San Francisco, California's Revolver boutique shows that integrity, not trendiness, is the ultimate style virtue. Text: Tiffany Lee. Photos: Revolver

Tucked away in the popular Fillmore shopping strip in the hilly Pacific Heights area of San Francisco, CA, Revolver may not stand out on the street, but the store has enough sophisticated offerings to offset the city's droves of questionably clad hippies and Silicon Valley commuters. With the rustic feel of an upscale cabin mixed with an ocean pier, the store offers an unspoken warmth and comfort, like you've been invited into a close relative's home. The selection of beautifully understated pieces are as relevant on the streets of London as they are in the forests of Maine—You won't be seeing neon or glitter, but only clean, classic pieces worth investing in. Upon closer inspection this is no Brooks Brothers; each piece has something unique and modern about it: a jacket with an unexpected leopard lining, genuine vintage buttons on a new shirt or sunglasses with rosewood frames. Heritage and Longevity

Freshly opened in April 2010, the store is already making a name for itself with its California ocean culture vibe refined by genuine clothing and crafted pieces from local and international artisans. It was started by Robert Patterson and Chris Seta, who both grew up in Japan and

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wanted to bring that same well-rounded personal service Japanese boutiques have to San Francisco. "We're focused on a wide customer base for individuals who are less interested in fashion but in goods that are classic and will last the length of their lives," says Patterson. When choosing lines, Revolver only wants those that exude high-quality craftsmanship and a passion for both tradition and detail, not pieces that are merely easy sells. Beyond Retail

Shoppers can walk to the back room that's not apparent to the naked eye, where Revolver curates a small art gallery featuring photography and paintings from local and international artists. The reason behind the art gallery is that it "enables us to further connect with our neighbourhood on a personal level," says Patterson. In October/November, Revolver hosted a small pop-up art gallery with Brian Lam of the ocean-obsessed blog The Scuttlefish. He also happens to be the Editorial Director of tech pop culture site Gizmodo—and the one who took the personal call from Apple CEO Steve Jobs when Gizmodo got its hands on the lost iPhone 4G in April. The exhibition featured artist Ty Williams, Jay Nelson and Ryan Tatar, plus a genuine shark cage, rowboat and buoys were installed in the store to instil in viewers a love of the sea.

Revolver. 136 Fillmore St., San Francisco, CA 94117/USA, T 001.415.871.0665, www.revolversf.com Opening: April 2010. Owner/Managing Director: Robert Patterson. Staff: 4. Sales area: 120 sqm. Womenswear: American Vintage France, Baron Wells, Dear Creatures, Denham the Jeanmaker, Kova & T, MBD Oakland, Modapsia Oakland, Them Atelier. Menswear: Baron Wells, Ben Davis Workwear, Cloth Logic, Crate Denim, Denham the Jeanmaker, Generic Youth, Monitaly, Patagonia, Riviera Club, Rogues Gallery, Satcas, Tellason. Shoes: Generic Surplus, J Shoes, Volta, Yuketen. Accessories: Baggu, Journal Standard, Portland General Haberdashery, Susan Hoff Accessories, Sword & Fern Jewelry, Yuketen Bags. Lifestyle: Purple, Monocle, Free & Easy Japan, Surfers Journal, Nieves Press Titles, Various Books + Treasures.

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Despite the storefront blending into San Franciscoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popular Fillmore shopping strip, Revolver boasts an air simple luxury that sharply contrasts that of itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s off-beat bohemian neighbors.

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BOOKMARC

NEW YORK

Paper Fashion Sometimes the name says it all: Marc Jacobs' latest store reveals that the designer enfant terrible has turned over a new leaf. Text: Petra Engelke, Fotos: Bookmarc, Marc Jacobs

Normally, stores are for displaying merchandise. A designer opens a flagship store so he can present his fashions in style – and he inevitably comes up with some new twist for trousers or T-shirts. But Bookmarc is different. Ever since Marc Jacobs moved into the former premises of Biography Book Store, he has been producing books. Jacobs hasn’t written the bible on fashion though – In fact the books he creates are blank: a range of notebooks and sketchbooks, some with covers that feature self-styled variations of famous book titles like "Breakfast at Bleecker," "The Gay Gatsby" and "Dr. Jacobs and Mr. Marc." At Bookmarc there is no clothing - just books. Most of them are heavy tomes with page after page on art, photography, music, lifestyle and, of course, fashion. The Pucci book stands next to "Louis Vuitton" and "The Hermès Scarf," while biographies of Jimi Hendrix, Patti Smith and Michael Jackson rub shoulders with history books on the Black Panther movement. Andy Warhol makes a cameo appearance on nearly every shelf, and illustrated books about Julian Schnabel, Frida Kahlo, Richard

Avedon and Thomas Ruff vie for attention on the shelves. In such a rich environment, Marc Jacobs fans on the prowl for exclusive merchandise may find themselves absorbed in a book – and, by the same token, lovers of coffee table books are liable to discover the designer. The entire program is curated by a book buyer. Still the selection differs from your usual gallery shop fare and includes titles that reflect a certain Jacobs touch. For instance, a little work entitled "The Young Girl’s Handbook of Good Manners" is by For the opening Marc Jacobs' business partner no means a nostalgic book on etiquette Robert Duffy himself took but rather an outrageous parody of nineover at the cash register. teenth-century propriety that offers wonderfully shocking and useless advice. Furthermore, along with countless limited editions on musicians, the shop is selling "Look at This Fucking Hipster" – after the blog of the same name. Nearly the entire space between the middle shelf and the display window is occupied by a long vintage reading table. Customers can pull rotating adjustable stools from under the table. Occasionally someone actually sits down and browses through a book – but usually this display space is simply too full for that: Almost every inch is filled with notebooks and sketchbooks in various sizes and styles, coloured pencils, lipstick pens, cases, key rings, tote bags and pocketbooks – all by Marc Jacobs. Additional special items can be found among the books on the wall shelves made of light wood. Interestingly enough, the volumes are organised in a manner that encourages good posture: Most of the books stand with their covers instead of their spines pointed towards the aisle. That way nobody has to twist their head.

Bookmarc is the fourth Marc Jacobs shop on Bleecker Street.

Bookmarc. 400 Bleecker Street, New York, NY 10014/USA, T 001.212.6204021, www.marcjacobs.com Opening: September 2010. Owners: Marc Jacobs and Robert Duffy. Staff: 10. Sales area: approx. 30 sqm. Labels: Marc Jacobs (exclusively special items)

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"Shopping with a clear conscience" says it all: At De La Reh you can buy stylish clothing and accessories without having an environmental awareness conflict.

"De la Reh is my own personal step toward creating something better," says Owner Malinka Remé.

DE LA REH

BERLIN

One Small Step Berlin welcomes a new fashion shop: De La Reh is the name of the new Concept Store for Green Fashion on Nürnberger Strasse that does away with the cliché of "goody two-shoes" eco-fashion. Text: Jule Lauber. Photos: De La Reh

Change. Improvement. Progress. The first step towards an environmentally conscious and social lifestyle is the most important one. Malinka Remé has made this motto her own. On 11 September, the 26-year-old Berlin citizen opened De La Reh, her first Concept Store for Green Fashion, on Nürnberger Strasse not far from the Kurfürstendamm. The 70 square metre shop features display cabinets made of old wooden pallets and thrown-away windows. These are used to showcase exclusively ecologically conscious and stylish clothing and accessories, with great finds for the shop's customers. Shop proprietor Malinka Remé herself selects the brands that the store stocks, and these include Kuyichi, Bllack Noir and Profondita. She attaches particular importance to the criteria of design, originality and history of the products. "When it comes to the design, I make sure the styles will retain their wearability in the long-term. After all it is timeless design that satisfies the need for sustainability," explains the native Spanish lady.

Thanks to her code of honour, all labels so far have been free from scandals and awarded certificates such as the Global Organic Textile Standard. It's natural that De La Reh's electricity is from ecological sources and its calling cards are printed on recycled paper. Authenticity is paramount. And Remé's customers are prepared to pay the price for this. The prices range from 30 euros for an accessory to 500 euros for a coat. Visit De La Reh between 11.00 am and 7.00 pm to treat yourself and the rest of the world to something special. Whoever can't visit the store during its opening hours needn't worry: From summer 2011 the online shop plans to start doing business.

De La Reh – Concept Store for Green Clothing. Nürnberger Strasse 23, 10789 Berlin/Germany, T 0049.163.1619595, mail@delareh.de, www.delareh.de Opening: 11 September 2010. Owner: Malinka Remé. Staff: 1. Sales area: 70 sqm. Womenswear: Bllack Noir, Julia Starp, Komodo, Kuyichi, Makki, Mandala, Profondita, The Baand. Accessories: Beyond Skin, Jellah, Kvast, MattandNat, Tinchens.

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View through the store into a mirrored changing room.

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VOO

181

BERLIN

Get Your Glad Rags Out! VOO, the store with concept, is making the move to Kreuzberg – to the place where jeans and hoodies have ruled since the '80s - and bringing high-end fashion culture from Berlin Mitte. Text: Jan Joswig. Photos: VOO The 300 square metre shop area at the heart of the district, in a business park in Oranienstrasse, remains naked and bare. Unplastered walls are reflected by a completely mirrored cube that houses the changing rooms. The result is an exciting, Berlin-typical contrast to the hand-picked selection that goes from fashion to home furnishings and is selected based on the likes of a world traveller. The special focus is on gift items, lovely little knickknacks such as handmade candles or booklovers' books, genuine affairs of the heart. The fashion spectrum ranges from the high fashion of Silent by Damir Doma, cheerful Scandinavians such as Henrik Vibskov or Stine Goya to shoes by Jeffrey Campbell or Grenson as well as cheap and cheerful basics by Cheap Monday. The vintage section features a collection of

uniquely elegant items by big designers such as Yves Saint Laurent or Yohji Yamamoto. The presentation breathes cleverly devised simplicity and depth. Imaginative and Ingenious

Ingrid Junker, trend scout and co-founder of Broken Hearts Club, the internationally successful party range for fashion enthusiasts, is the Creative Director and is responsible for the concept. As she says, VOO is a purely made-up word: as new and fresh as the store itself. Voo hopes to give the concept store model the charm of a permanent work in progress. The range alternates based on the creators' spontaneous spirit of discovery. A large-scale online shop will extend the VOO concept to the Internet. Ingrid Junker emphasises the collective spirit behind VOO. An important partner is Yasin Müjdeci, one of the owners of Bar Luzia in Oranienstrasse who has already successfully brought new life from Berlin Mitte into the partying spirit of dusty, old Kreuzberg. Their experiences in the music and club culture, combined with a personal twist, have made VOO what it is today. They ask musicians and Djs such as Tiefschwarz or Peaches for a list of their favourite albums and offer them for sale. The front area of the shop, which has a wooden platform that resembles a stage, is reserved for cultural events such as concerts, performances and readings. For the opening on 6 November 2010, the French electronic musician Koudlam, who composes the music for the new shooting star of the art scene Cyprien Gaillard, held his first performance in Berlin. If VOO continues to combine fashion and culture on this level, the store will become the new magnet for those strolling through the city centre, far from the madding crowds.

The three heads behind VOO: Yasin Mukdeci, Ingrid Junker and Gonca Güsav (who will curate the store exhibitions).

VOO Store. Oranienstrasse 24, 10999 Berlin/Germany Opening: November 2010. Owners: YasinMüjdeci. Staff: 7. Sales area: 300 sqm. Brands: B store, Cheap Monday, Don’t Shoot The Messengers, Frost Birgens, Henrik Vibskov, Long, Pendleton, Rxmance, Sandqvist, Silent by Damir Doma, Something Else, Soulland, Stine Goya, Surface to Air, Uniforms for the Dedicated, Vintage Designs, Wood Wood. Shoes: Grenson, Jeffrey Campbell, Twins for Peace. Bags:Sandqvist. Other: book classics, magazines, cosmetics and art and design objects.

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FREUDENHAUS

OBERTAUERN

Pure Shopping Pleasure at 1,750 Metres The Freudenhaus (literally, joy house) in Obertauern is no house of sinful pleasure, although the three-fold combination of fashion, sports and culinary temptations is hard to resist. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photos: Freudenhaus The unusual name for the fashion and sports store in Obertauern was definitely chosen to raise eyebrows. Hotelier Gerhard Lürzer is simply far too creative to settle for a yawner of a name like Sporthaus Lürzer. He wanted something more original, more exciting and, most important of all, something that was a play on words in German. It was the desire to make the most of a single location that gave rise to the name. "We brainstormed about how we could best round out our total range of offers,” says Gerhard Lürzer who, together with his brothers Heribert und Harald, already runs three hotels, three après-ski establishments and a ski school under the umbrella name Lürzer Ferien. Fashion, Sports and Culinary Delights – All under One Roof

It made sense to invest in a ski rental business, to offer hotel guests added value and gain independence from other ski rental firms. During the planning phase, they toyed with a multitude of concepts until it was clear that under the roof of the Freudenhaus they could combine sports, fashion and culinary delights into a single, sensuous shopping experience. Aside from giving customers shelter from the winter weather, there are a number of other advantages to the "all-under-one-roof" concept: "While the women are busy shopping, the men can treat themselves to a coffee or read a newspaper," says Lürzer. An inspiring & Daring Combination

"Mundwerk" is the upscale bistro that nicely rounds out the Freudenhaus experience. A glass front between the dining area and the sales floor creates a pleasant, open atmosphere. The building is characterised by an inspiring and daring combination of old structural elements and modern accents reflected both by the distinctive architecture and the store furnishings: Larchwood, glass and exposed concrete blend perfectly with the stylish interior design and visual one-of-a-kinds. Large graffiti murals by airbrush artist Knud Tiroch add a splash of colour and movement. Freudenhaus was designed by Nikolaus Griesebner and Martin Mattersberger from the Salzburg architectural firm Archidee, style in progress

which also carried out the Lürzer family's three hotel projects. Inform from Feldkirch in the Austrian region of Vorarlberg was commissioned to do the store's interior design. Joyful Experience on Three Floors

Freudenhaus offers plenty of orgasmic opportunities for customers to discover the latest sporting equipment, indulge in culinary delights, and cultivate a taste for today's fashions – all under one roof. On all three floors, shoppers will find that the store has gone to great lengths to fulfil every individual need with a stylish selection of brands in every price range. "The sports and ski fashions are our strongest segment. We still see potential for improvement in the other areas, however," says Gerhard Lürzer. The owners have given themselves five years for the fine tuning. Particularly in the fashion segment, it's important to take time to sound out what customers want and which price segments to cover with which brands. The goal here will be to carry a limited number of brands with a deep range of products. The store's future success, primarily in the fashion segment, depends mainly on its ability to meet the seasonal challenge: All sales are in winter because Freudenhaus remains closed during the summer. But Gerhard Lürzer is a man of vision who has already come up with a way to deal with this drawback: "If we want to continue to rely on fashion in the future, there's no reason not Freudenhaus. Ringstrasse 210, to have a year-round 5562 Obertauern/Austria, T 0043.6456.72009, operation in Salzburg. www.meinfreudenhaus.at Plans and negotiations Opening: 19 November 2009. are already Owner: Lürzer Obertauern GmbH & underway." Co KG. Staff: approx. 30. Sales area: 1,500 sqm. Labels Fashion: Aeronautica Militare, Aglini, Alp-n-Rock, Blauer, Codello, Drykorn, Duvetica, FTC Cashmere, G-Lab, Gwynedds, J.Lindeberg, Mauritius, Moncler, Parajumpers, Peak Performance, Rare, RedBull Racing, Replay, Scotch & Soda, Superdry, The Same Guy, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, True Religion, Ugg Australia, Williams Wilson. Labels Sports: Adidas, Analog, Areco, Armada, Atomic, Barts, Bionic, Björn Borg, Blizzard, Bogner, Bogner Fire+Ice, Bollé, Boot Doc, Brunotti, Bula, Capranea, Carrera, Casco, Chanex Outerwear, Craft, Cuun, Dainese, Dakine, Dalbello, DC, Eisbär, Elan, Falke, Fox, Giro, Haglöfs, Hestra, Icepeak, Indigo, Jetset, K2, Kask, Kjus, Komperdell, Nikita, Nordblanc, Nordica, Norrona, Norton, Oakley, Odlo, Orage, Poc, Powderhorn, Reusch, Schöffel, Scott, Smith Optics, Socks, Steffen, Suunto, SV, Sweet Protection, Tecnica, The North Face, Under Armour, Uvex, Völkl.

LOOK&FEEL.

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At Freudenhaus old structures are blended with modern accents. The modern alpine life style is reflected in the architecture, furniture and selection of goods.

style in progress

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.EDITOR'S LETTER style in progress wo-men’s fashion

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG

Salzweg 17 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at

Let's Talk about the Weather

Management Stephan Huber, Nicolaus Zott

n this issue's roundtable discussion, Wöhrl CEO Marcus Kossendey pointed to the weather as a key factor for the fashion retail trade. And although it's become something of a taboo to say it, he's, of course, totally right. The weather and the climate – to make this important distinction – naturally have a decisive influence on the purchasing behaviour of consumers, particularly in European countries where there are such distinct differences between the individual seasons. However, these two meteorological factors don't really work as a one-size-fits-all excuse. General climate and weather patterns are highly predictable – even over the long term. We know that it's going to be cold in November and warm in May, and even if there happens to be a day in November when we can walk through the park wearing a T-shirt, this doesn't change our fundamental certainty about the seasons. Why are we taking this detour into the world of popular meteorology? Because we had a long stretch of warm weather this past autumn. In fact, it was too warm – at least to lure spontaneous need-driven buyers into purchasing winter jackets and other warm clothing. No doubt about it – retailers' nerves and liquidity are sorely tested when merchandise that has been paid for moves like molasses and inventory is overflowing – especially when stores are already snowed under with the first deliveries for spring and summer…literally. Now, in late November, right in time for the Christmas shopping season, winter has finally arrived – with a vengeance! And, as mentioned above, it wasn't a total surprise that ol' Jack Frost would put in an appearance. Hordes of spontaneous need-driven buyers – shivering, slightly snowblind, yet glowing with holiday cheer – rushed into the shopping streets and malls. And they were in a buying mood! During the initial advent weekends, the tills were ringing more merrily than church bells. Retailers who hadn't yet slashed their prices style in progress

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Managing editor Daniela Angerbauer daniela.angerbauer@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at

on current winter merchandise at this time must be rejoicing to the heavens. Stores that had already joined the fray of the price wars could hopefully at least sell off their stocks of merchandise. I can imagine who's more satisfied with the year-end results for 2010.

Contributing writers Stefanie Buchacher, Kjeld Duits, Petra Engelke, Sabine Fiedler, Jeanette Fuchs, Michael Ginthör, Miranda Hoogervorst, Jan Joswig, Katharina Legenstein, Thesy Kness Bastaroli, Ina Köhler, Julia Lauber, Tiffany Lee, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper, Nicolette Scharpenberg, Alana Wallace

So far so good – but aside from the ups and downs of the retail trade, a few vital questions remain for the entire fashion industry. Is the current scheduling – which shifts the summer to the winter and the winter to the summer – an ideal solution or does it ignore the actual purchasing behaviour of a large proportion of consumers? The result of this approach is that many consumers have become confused by the seemingly uncontrolled proliferation of sales, and now see discount prices as the norm and regular prices as a rip-off. The internet has made everyone into so-called experts. Google what it costs to produce these shoes! Just Google it!!!

Photographers+Illustrators Kjeld Duits, Doris Erben, Esther Gebauer, Marcel Gonzales-Ortiz, Sakis Lalas, Olaf-Daniel Meyer, Ugur Ohanoglu, Adrian Bela Raba, Peter Schaffrath

I'm no big fan of government regulation. I don’t think freedom is about abolishing all rules, either. In other words, I don't have a one-size-fits-all solution. Nevertheless, I'm thrilled by the notion of finally making the fashion industry into a genuine four-seasons business, where each season ends with a short and sweet sale that everyone in the sector actually respects - even if it's an item on my Christmas wish list that again has to be put off until next year. Stephan Huber stephan@ucm-verlag.at

Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English editor Elizabeth d'Elsa English translations Word Connection Business Translation Service Printing Laber Druck, Salzburg Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627 BLZ 45010

Next Issue: 02 February 2011

Maxim Ludwig and The Santa Fe Seven

Douglas Kirkland for