Style in Progress 1.12 EN

WINTER 12/13 # 1.2012

Roundtable Diskussion with Top Retailers. Uniqueness Is an Outstanding Business Model /// Target Group Men. What Do You Want? /// Specialty shops are back in the USA. The Small Revolution /// Nature Calls. Romance or a Chance?

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"Being an Honest Retailer Is the Most Difficult Part of All." Hirofumi Kurino

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008 EDITORIAL

Culture and Clothing

Hirofumi Kurino, creative mastermind at United Arrows,Japan's remarkable retail business.

Photo: Bernhard Musil

Welcome to these lines...

What gifts would we ask for this upcoming fashion season if we could beam the Three Wise Men to the here and now? "Stories," says Hirofumi Kurino in an interview conducted in Paris by Nicoletta Schaper (Longview, page 064). The Creative Director of the "model student" in Japanese retailing, United Arrows, impressively demonstrated that he's a keen observer of the industry. Differences between Japanese and European retailing culture never cease to amaze this world citizen – and occasionally give rise to some very serious reflection.

So we've already decided on one gift. What would be the second one? "Men with fashion courage" is what participants would say who were invited to ponder the question "Why Are Men Such a Difficult Target Group?" (page 074). The idea is for men to discover clothing as culture and to become just as devoted to fashion as they are to their cars and electronic toys.

An impossibility? Not at all, as outstanding examples show. This is true not only here but – to our great amazement – also on the other side of the Atlantic, where department stores and mega-malls have nearly managed to drive small, independent stores out of the market.

In an exciting development, a new generation of men's stores is showing how it's possible to lure today's consumers back into shops and away from standardised vertical outfits: with genuine enthusiasm, detailed research and a newly discovered desire for expertise. But we'd gladly give back "men with fashion courage" in exchange for this: We'd like retailers who love their products, who often spend months looking for the right tie and then explain its intricate manufacturing process in long conversations with customers!

So, what do we concretely wish for? Paradise-like conditions? Here's some good news from the home front: Tu Felix Austria (page 104), which should by no means be understood as exaggerated patriotism from a publishing house that just happens to call Austria its home.

No, no, it's actually a snapshot of an ideal setting for retailers whose courage can serve as an example to the entire industry. In view of the current economic horror scenarios in the media, should you remodel or even expand? Certainly – if not now, then when?

And what we would all particularly wish for is more discipline, intelligence and long-term thinking in the retail trade when it comes to sales and markdowns. This was a key issue during our roundtable discussion in Hamburg with top-ranking retailers (page 116).

And there you have it: Suddenly we no longer need a third gift from the Wise Men – because we could do it all on our own after all. We hope you enjoy this issue.

Your style in progress Team

112 style in progress

010 CONTENT

064 Hirofumi Kurino, Creative Advisor of United Arrows, is regarded as trend guru.

074 Men, a target group often underestimated by buyers and retailers.

088 In the USA individual men's stores show how to get men fired up.

THE LONGVIEW 064 We Want to Tell Stories! style in progress talks with Hirofumi Kurino CONCEPT 074 What Do You Want?

Men, fashion and trends – What's the truth of the matter?

080 A Talkshow with Sales Herbert Möller talks about what makes men happy when they're buying fashions

094 Die Visionaries From cashmere knits to total look – Witty Knitters 096 Fashion Engineering Another jacket? Sure, if it's different – G-Lab 097 We Don't Need to Hide from Anybody Luis Trenker reconquers the mountains 098 Nature Calls: Make Yourself at Home That's what city dwellers dream of nowadays

082 Hollywood on Sylt Arqueonautas is aiming high

104 Tu Felix Austria Austria's fashion retailers remain undaunted

087 Timeless Craftsmanship Tradition, handcraft, sustainability – Handstich

112 Let There Be Love!

Next step: a fashion collection from Liebeskind

088 The Small Revolution In the USA specialty shops are back

114 The Product Is a Testimonial to Our Values Dundop goes international

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012 CONTENT

142 A photographic tribute to jackets, the big sales boosters.

150 Magic born of simplicity: Reduction, Gothic and rock get along well.

158 The forecast for winter: colourful, since it gets dark no matter what.

OPINION 116 Uniqueness Is an Outstanding Business Model Roundtable discussion - What does the retail trade need?

LOOK & FEEL 164 Closer to the Scene Classico, Hamburg

126 Products Instead of Output per Area Reiner Pichler (Holy Fashion Group) on men's fashions, banks and best products

166 New Home Ela, Düsseldorf

130 We Are only as Good as our Employees Why Made in China is a sign of quality – KTC 136 Jeans for Femininity Mother Denim, Made in Heaven, Notify, Astrid Jane

168 Life's Little Pleasures Stulz, Waldshut 170 In Its Sixth Generation August Pfüller, Frankfurt 172 The Local's Treasure Stig P & Co, Copenhagen

FASHION & INSPIRATION 142 Rebel without a Cause Riding until dawn – menswear

174 Carte Blanche for Beauty ANSH46, Rotterdam

150 Lord Darkness Magic looks from the world in between (or intermediate world)

Standards

158 Winter Colourful Colour, colour, colour

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008 Editorial 018 Shortcuts 046 Selected 176 Editor's Letter/About us

FINEST WITTY KNITWEAR IS AVAILABLE NOW FW12 STARTS AT CPD CPD DÜSSELDORF

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018

SHORTCUTS

Friendly Hunting NEW DIRECTION Friendly Hunting is known internationally for its handmade, sustainably produced cashmere collections. Now the label is expanding its selection in a new direction, yet remaining true to its high-quality standards. "As with our cashmere collections, we always try to offer our customers something new," says CEO Christian Goldmann, "and since our most well-known illustration, Garden Eden, has established itself as a kind of trademark, it makes sense to put it on other products as well. This led to the idea of decorating our ‘white gold’ porcelain with this image in cobalt blue. In this series we work with two design styles: one baroque and one modern. It was important for us here to offer articles that are timeless and work as individual pieces. They are all produced by a traditional manufacturer in Germany." The porcelain is already being sold by retailers such as Fidelio in Zurich, Ragazzi in Bielefeld and Ofelia in Berlin. Friendly Hunting has 128 customers in Germanspeaking countries. Based on the positive response, new products will continually be presented in the future under Friendly Hunting Sense. The coming trade fair season will feature hand-woven carpets and towels. www.friendly-hunting.com

Elegant steht Vitali Klitschko gut.

Ultra-light down jacket by Hetregó.

Hetregó LIGHTWEIGHT JACKETS FOR THE FUTURE The Italian fashion label Hetregó, which was founded in 1916, focuses on ultra-light and vibrantly coloured down jackets for the autumn/winter collection 2012/13. The warm-up capsule collection 90/10 has already been presented to selected sales representatives in 2011. Their successful concept is going to be extended for winter 2012/13, and will be aimed at wholesale prices that range from 49 to 99 euros. The name 90/10 derives from the jackets’ filling material: 90 per cent down and only ten per cent feathers. The jackets - featuring four models for women and four models for men - are very light but also very warm, and are ideal for a long, mild autumn. It is for this reason that the jackets were in such high demand in 2011. At the fashion show Pitti, 90/10 will be presented to the public for the first time. It is widely anticipated that the Hetregó brand’s reputation is going to soar over the next few years. www.hetrego.it

The cashmere label has added exclusive porcelain, hand-woven rugs and towels to their selection.

Cinque WELCOME, TRISTAN BOLWIN! Last September Tristan Bolwin joined the management and sales team at Cinque Uomo. "I received a very warm welcome from the Cinque team and am happy to be part of the family," says Bolwin, who was previously Fashion Coordinator and Product Manager for Bugatti knitwear at the Brinkmann group. "One of my first objectives is to build up the less-known product groups and items such as trousers, The new man at Cinque: and take the company from specialist to Tristan Bolwin. lifestyle brand."

The current menswear collection focuses on lightness and a stylishly small silhouette. Double-breasted suits and light shirt-jackets made of washed wool are key items, supplemented by chinos, sporty knitwear and sweats. www.cinque.de

Philippe Model STEPPING UP THE COLLECTION AND THE SALES The internationally successful shoe label Philippe Model is primarily known for its sporty sneaker collections. Innovations in design and materials are planned for 2012/13. The label is also launching models with leather soles and bringing new details to the market, including winter boots with buckles and linings, while retaining that typically casual Philippe Model look. Current customers are growing with the brand: Thanks to its success among upscale retailers, the sales network has continued to expand and Philippe Model has gained new distributors in France, Japan and the US. The new models can be seen at the Pitti Immagine, Premium, Tranoï, Micam and MOC. In January the brand is organising a customer event in Amsterdam's Loods 6. www.philippemodel.com

New models step up to join the sneakers from the Veneto region.

112 style in progress

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020 SHORTCUTS

Joop INTERNAL CHANGE Reorganisation within Strellson AG: In January 2012 Matthias Rehbeck will become Head of of Design at Joop Men. Marc Briggemann will continue in this position until the start of the new year. Matthias Rehbeck has had the same position at Tommy Hilfiger Tailored Matthias Rehbeck will be Head of for thirteen years, where he Design at Joop Men from January will remain until starting at 2012.

Joop Men. By making the move within Strellson AG from Tommy Hilfiger Tailored to Joop, Matthias is following in the footsteps of his longstanding colleague Marcel Krug, who joined Joop as Managing Brand Director back in September 2010. www.joop.com

The presenter Sandra Ahrabia together with Bomboogie models and PR-expert Holger Petermann.

Bomboogie PRE-CHRISTMAS GET-TOGETHER AT MUNICH FASHION HOTSPOT On 15 December 2011 the Italian fashion label Bomboogie celebrated a get-together with its fans at the Munich fashion store Stierblut. This store is one of the major sales outlets in Germany. More than 100 guests, among them many celebrities, admired the latest collection.

Massimiliano Zeloni, Bomboogie-Export Manager, was happy to draw such great interest: "When I come to Germany, I spot many people who wear Bomboogie. I am really happy that it is so successful here."

An important change within the label's line: From now on, women can purchase not only jackets, but also linen dresses, shorts or tunic skirts. www.bomboogie.it

Warm-Me CAPS WITH CHARACTER

New name, tried and true quality: The two labels CBY and CBY +white are now called [c] studio.

To get the word out about its knit caps, Warm-Me used trunk shows in 2011 at INKED in Vienna, Icons in Munich and Schönherr in Neustift in Tyrol's Stubai Valley. Eye-catching window decorations and a wide selection of Warm-Me caps allowed retailers to enjoy brisk sales. For its 2012 winter collection, this label launched by Christian Obojes is again focussing on quality and exclusivity: Fine wool and pure cashmere are knitted by hand. Only 50 articles per colour are made for the selected exclusive models in the collection. Warm-Me is on display at the Pitti Immagine Uomo, Premium and Tranoï. www.warm-me.eu

Cinellistudio NEW NAME, OLD TRADITIONS Cinellistudio, one of the oldest and most traditional jacket manufacturers with in-house down production, has always been known for its three labels CBY, CBY +white und Crust. Now, it's returning to old traditions with the launch of a new label that puts the spotlight on the Cinelli family. From January 2012, in addition to the three established labels, there will be the new label [C]Studio with one men's and one women's collection per season. The new collections are young and typically Italian, but also proof that the Cinellis like to experiment. Each article of clothing is one-of-a-kind, from the design to the materials. This new collection in tried and tested Cinelli quality will be presented at fairs in Florence, Milan and Berlin – and launched on the retail market in September 2012. Sales and marketing of [C]Studio in Germany and Austria are handled by Agentur Gerster, and in Switzerland by CC Trading AG. Customers include Raspini in Florence, Mass Bizz in New York and Takashimaya in Tokyo. www.cinellistudio.it

112 style in progress

The founder of the Warm-Me label: Christian Obojes.

SINCE 1935.

A TRUE STORY, AN ORIGINAL BRAND. Spring Summer 2012

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0039 Italy ITALIAN DOLCE VITA AT THE CLICK OF A MOUSE Founded back in 2001, fashion label 0039 Italy is taking its 10th anniversary as an opportunity to join the ranks of e-commerce merchants.

The mixture of Italian dolce vita and elegance expressed in the collection concept has also been available in its webshop since autumn 2011.

0039 Italy currently has 1,400 stores in 50 countries. With the launch of its virtual sales platform, the label is expanding into 26 additional markets in Europe. High standards of service and quality play a major role in its online business. The key feature is fashion and style advice via the telephone hotline or by e-mail. Shipping within Germany is free of charge; 0039 Italy delivers to all other EU countries for an additional fee of 20 euros. www.0039italy.com

Mediterranean lifestyle to go: 0039 Italy has launched its own online shop.

Left to right: Henning Ziepke and Ansgar Schmidt (s1 architektur), F.C. Gundlach (photographer), Karl-Heinz Müller (owner, 14 oz.), Thomas Bscher (owner Cumberland building), Roland Mary (owner, Restaurant Borchardt).

14 oz. Berlin THE HYPE GOES WEST

Mabrun FIRST WE TAKE MILAN...

Karl-Heinz Müller, owner of 14 oz. and Managing Director of the Bread & Butter, is opening a new multi-label store in September 2012 on West Berlin's most prestigious shopping boulevard, the Ku'damm. The store will cover a total area of 600 square metres in the historic Cumberland Building and feature women's and men's collections by authentic brands with strong identities. Müller intends to make his mark in the West – and expectations are high: His store 14 oz. helped fuel the Mitte hype and many observers anticipate that it will also make the Ku'damm an attractive shopping destination. Cumberland owner Thomas Bscher: "Karl-Heinz Müller, 14 oz. and the Bread & Butter represent Berlin's next generation. All of us, including the stores in the immediate vicinity, are happy that Müller is so involved in promoting the Kurfürstendamm. Indeed, he's making an important contribution to the location, particularly this area and the Cumberland Building. www.14oz-berlin.com

In January 2012 jacket specialist Mabrun opened a new showroom in Milan covering 120 square metres. This central point of contact in the Italian fashion capital is an important step forward in the brand's internationalisation concept.

According to Mabrun CEO Thomas Stiebing, the label posted a record turnover in 2011 of nearly 25 million euros, up 27 per cent from the previous year. The plan for the near future is open showrooms in the UK, France and Eastern European countries. www.mabrun.it

The best of moods and record sales at Shopping Night in Innsbruck.

Einwaller NIGHT SHOPPING IN INNSBRUCK

Mabrun is opening a new showroom in Milan.

112 style in progress

What does it take to motivate people to buy during these times of low sales? Dedication and good preparation. In October 2011 the city of Innsbruck organised a shopping night to coincide with the autumn trade fair. Einwaller sent out 15,000 invitations for the event to its regular customers. A fashion show, which included clothing by Veni Ceatrix, a designer from Vienna, and furs by Liska, was held inside the Einwaller Anna store. At the Joseph, Sportsfrau and Sportsmann stores, entertainment was provided among the displays by DJs. Reductions of 50 percent were available at the outlet. Fingerfood, cocktails and happy customers were all around. The result: 300 bottles of champagne were served and the company achieved its highest sales ever. www.einwaller.com

024 SHORTCUTS

New Balance IN HONOUR OF FLIMBY Etiqueta Negra DETAILS MAKE THE DIFFERENCE The label Etiqueta Negra presents a wide range of attractive details in its collection: The collars and sleeves of the polo shirts have contrasting colours inside and out. What's more, garbadine fabric is no longer used just for trousers, but also for patches, sleeves and collars to highlight the brand's affinity with the world of sports. There is also a special men's collection called Tazio Nuvolari, named after and inspired by the legendary Attractive details: Etiqueta Negra.

Italian racecar driver who won the Donington Grand Prix in 1938. The series consists of sweatshirts with Tazio Nuvolari motifs and polo shirts with Donington patches. Etiqueta Negra also knows how to keep its fans entertained in other ways: for example, with live piano music on the beach at the Pitti Immagine Uomo. www.etiquetanegra.eu

To mark the 30th anniversary of the New Balance factory, the English athletic shoe brand is planning to introduce two special editions. The M576 Flimby was created to celebrate three decades of production at the Flimby production plant, which was built in 1982. The shoe is inspired by the style of British farmers, with a printed insole that shows the factory.

The second model is the M577 Farmer's Market, which was inspired by English farmers' markets. The concept behind both models is handcrafted quality with premium materials. Both models will be available from autumn/winter 2012 at select stores in Europe. Since November 2011 a website specially designed for this project has been online to draw attention to the models and the story behind them. www.visitflimby.com, www.newbalance.de

In honour of the factory in Flimby, the New Balance M576 will be available from autumn 2012 in select shoe stores.

New fits for the Szen-knitwear collection.

Aglini THE SHIRT RIGHT ON YOU

Swiss Chriss & Szen COLOURFUL COUSINS As far as appearances go, you wouldn't normally lump together the labels Swiss Chriss and Szen. Retailers are delighted with Swiss Chriss because it offers a stylistically intriguing alternative to the never-ending stream of identical-looking nylon and down jackets. Felt wool jackets are still the key to success and during the current sales season the label is focussing on vibrant colours like red, green and blue. Women's jackets for autumn/winter 2012/13 are becoming more feminine thanks to a more tapered cut. The collection features sharp-looking coats and new, short blazers. Contrasting coloured linings provide variety.

By contrast, the label Szen is known for printing on both sides of its knitted garments, and during the current season it's offering more cashmere and cashmere-wool blends. The signature design has been further refined – and the womenswear articles are crafted with even greater attention to fit. Feminine silhouettes and vibrant colours make it a joy to discover this insider brand.

And how do Swiss Chriss and Szen fit together? Both labels are designed and produced by Blackboard S.r.l. in Milan. www.swiss-chriss.ch, www.szen.com

112 style in progress

Aglini made a lasting impression on customers and partners at an event in late autumn 2011. The firm invited 300 guests to Tuscany. But people didn't come to tour the company or engage in business talk. Instead, they had an opportunity to wine and dine with the Aglini family – and find out how much they value their customers. This New cuts, feminine shapes: Aglini True embodies the new concept for charm offensive was the autumn/winter 2012/13. brainchild of Marco Aglini, who, along with his father Marcello, has been responsible for the production of blouses and shirts under the family name for the past eight years.

The latest from Aglini: In addition to the main collection Aglini Shirtmaker, this coming season will feature Aglini True – 15 women's blouse models with feminine cuts, new shapes and finer materials, available from late June. Another addition: Etichetta Trentacinque – a price-conscious collection with 25 women's and 25 men's models at wholesale prices of 35 space euros with a 3.0 markup, available from late April.

A service plus is also the reorder program with rapid delivery dates for the summer 2012 flash collection. Approximately 40 articles – a mixture of newly interpreted Aglini classics and bestsellers – can be ordered from late March. Retailers can buy Aglini classics in stretch poplin and diverse colours at particularly attractive terms; with a minimum order of 80 items, the wholesale price drops to 149 euros. www.aglini.com

BERLIN www. joop.com

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030 SHORTCUTSAGENCIES

Agentur Bässler/Agentur Kappler DOWN IN THE FUTURE Cool, cheeky, witty. The latest addition to the product range of partner agencies Kappler & Bässler is the collection from Ai-Riders On The Storm, featuring futuristic-looking down jackets with sunglasses directly integrated into the hoods.

Another newcomer at Kappler & Bässler called ChatCwin offers intelligently designed jackets for men and women: "The Italian company Pespow is behind this label," says Constanze Kappler. "The jackets are very casual and sophisticated, and are manufactured in a special and innovative way."

Both agencies are dedicated to a mixture of innovation and sustainability, with a balanced array of commercial collections and finely crafted products. This includes dresses by Liebig that are suitable for every occasion, shoes by Dolfie, and bags

by Gina & Lucy, whose portfolio has been further expanded with several new series and a great deal of creativity.

Labels: Ai-Riders On The Storm, Blondes Make Better T-Shirts, ChatCwin, Claudio Cutuli, DAD Crown, Dolfie, Dirtee Hollywood, George Gina & Lucy, Giorgio Brato, Gwynedds, Hetregó, Liebig, Original Vintage Style, Szen, Swiss Chriss, Tkees, Violet, WLG Agentur Bässler, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.agentur-baessler.de Agentur Kappler, 80805 Munich/Germany, www.agentur-kappler.de

Reinforcements for the Ventrella team, and some new labels like Femme (picture) in the Düsseldorf and Munich showrooms.

Agentur Ventrella LADIES FIRST! Gaby and Michele Ventrella run an agency that resembles a fine delicatessen. For the current season they have upgraded their portfolio and expanded their team with five new experienced staff members: Dominik Apostolopoulos, Sabine Fleissig, Anna Hammer, Julia Mehnert and Philippa Seifert now support the duo at the helm of the agency. Gaby Ventrella: "We intend to continue to focus on pre-orders: That's also what retailers want." Not surprisingly, newcomers like Femme by designer Michele Rossi and Jejia fit right in here – offering two strong collections annually, charming details and reasonable price ranges. There's also news from established suppliers like Tagliatore. The Ventrellas were able to convince the label to introduce a second fit that flatters the figures of German women. "Drop 6 has been supplemented by drop 9, but of course the characteristic, modern tailored Tagliatore fit has been retained," says Gaby. While the agency's individual labels shine at fashion shows ranging from Pitti Uomo to Tranoï, the Ventrellas rely on the presentation in their showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf.

Labels: 813, Altea, Avant Toi, Bark, Caliban, D´Amico flowers, DNL, Femme, Ghold, Happiness, Jejia, Kilt, Leather Crown, Le Sarte Pettegole, Le Sentier, Marcello, Meier Brücher, Monocrom, Move, Mr. & Mrs. Furs, Mr. Wolf, People, Rue de Mathieu, Shak Chic, Spike, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei, Toile Dixon Munich: Agentur Ventrella, 80807 Munich/Germany, Düsseldorf: Studio Ventrella, 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.agentur-ventrella.de

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032 SHORTCUTSAGENCIES

Komet und Helden ADDITIONS FROM HOLLYWOOD AND TO THE TEAM

New and established brands - like Lucky de Luca at Hinterhofagentur.

Hinterhofagentur RETAILERS ARE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW… …and Hinterhofagentur has it! Dominik Meuer and his partner Lars Fischer are offering a range of new products in delightful quality that perfectly fit with the young agency's brand portfolio. Handstich, previously known for its handmade shoes, scores points with an outerwear collection for women and men. The focus is on materials like wool, loden, fur and leather innovatively combined with down and nylon (retail prices 299 to 699 euros). Meatpacking D is the name of the leather collection from Padua, featuring washed leather with a special finish (retail prices 499 to 1,299 euros). Vintage belts selling under the Sotto Spirito label are made by an experienced manufacturer. The fourth newcomer is the modal/cashmere scarf collection by Rossoforte from Italy with wholesale prices ranging from 35 to 45 euros. There are also numerous innovations in the existing collections: Lucky de Luca has added sweaters, chinos, vests and jackets to its collection of favourites. On the advice of the agency owners, Jey Coleman is expanding its womenswear range: "Especially the women’s blazers are a real hit," says Meuer. Hip Hip Hooray is a young Italian cashmere label that specialises in intarsia patterns and stitchings. The brand's upbeat name is complemented by vibrant colours.

Labels: Fratelli Rossetti, Handstich, Hip Hip Hooray, Jey Coleman, J Four, Lucky de Luca, Marlino, Mc Alson, Meatpacking D, Modfitters, Molo 11, Rossoforte, Silent People, So Nice, Soho, Sotto Spirito, Wool & Co. Die Hinterhofagentur, 80802 Munich/Germany, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

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Komet und Helden has increased its staff from 24 to 30, with three on the Superdry team, and three for brands AG Adriano Goldschmied, Blauer USA and Hartford, as well as WP Lavori's Woolrich brand and B.D. Baggies. But the agency is doing more than just expanding its team: "We have boosted our expertise in the accessories department by adding the American label Dr. Collectors, which features vintage bandanna scarves from the heart of Hollywood," says Henrik Soller, Managing Director at Komet und Helden. The agency is also expanding its marketing and service: "For autumn/winter 2011/2012 we conducted sales training for Woolrich in our showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. The feedback exceeded our expectations and we're going to continue in this direction," he adds. Furthermore, there will be an increasing focus on crash programmes, such as those already offered by AG and Superdry, and on merchandising. "When shops are offered a professional and user-friendly concept for window merchandising, it's a genuine way to promote sales." The watchwords for the season: "Denim, down jackets and accessories. We're sure that authentic sportswear is here to stay."

Labels: AG Adriano Goldschmied, B.D. Baggies, Blauer USA, Chevignon Togs Unlimited, Dr. Collectors, Gilded Age, Hartford, MUKs, Preventi, Riccardo Forconi, Superdry, Volta, Woolrich, WornFree Komet und Helden GmbH, 80805 Munich/Germany, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.kometundhelden.de

The french traditional Chevignon brand is new at Komet und Helden.

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welcome to my room with a view CONSTANT CHANGE Although the showrooms of the Salzburg agencies room with a view and welcome to my room have been under a single roof since August 2011, their brand portfolios still maintain distinctly different areas of focus. Perfectly in keeping with the bustling character of agency owner Christian Obojes, a number of walls have already received a new coat of paint after only a few months. Despite this need for constant change, however, he's extremely satisfied with tried and true brands like Peuterey, Aglini and 7 For All Mankind. This last brand was recently transferred from the urban collections of welcome to my room to the premium sportswear showroom of room with a view.

"Our colleague Martin Klösch is closely connected to this label.

So when he became Manager of the room of a view showroom, it was only logical that he would also handle 7 For All Mankind," said Obojes when asked about the transfer. Not only the owner and staff are on the move. New brands have also arrived in the showrooms, including Zoe Karrsen, AI-Riders On The Storm, Alternative Apparel and Masha & Kate, which provide a dynamic complement to trusted standbys. Another addition to the portfolio is Tylips Sisters. This bag label is one of the most eagerly awaited highlights of this year's PREMIUM. There are also some new additions to the actual showrooms: Obojes has trawled antique markets across Europe to locate vintage pieces of furniture that serve as long-term decoration and can be purchased by retailers and other interested buyers.

Labels room with a view: 7 For All Mankind, 81hours, BA..D, Blondes Make Better T-Shirts, Claudio Cutuli, Dear Cashmere, George Gina & Lucy, Geospirit, Liebig, New Balance, Original Vintage Style, Peuterey, Pomandère, R95th, S.en Soie, Sucre, Szen, True NYC Labels welcome to my room: Aglini, AI-Riders On The Storm, Alternative Apparel, Astrid Jane, Denham the Jeanmaker, E-Last-Fit, Giorgio Brato, House of the Gods, HTC, Just Yummie, Mu, Roque Ilaria Nistri, Simeon Farrar, Swiss Chriss, T-Kees, Warm-ME, White Valentine, Zoe Karssen welcome to my room & room with a view, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, www.roomwithaview.at room with a view, 8045 Zurich/Switzerland, www.roomwithaview.at

The interior design concept is also subject to constant change: the showrooms of room at the view and welcome to my room in Salzburg.

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ACO FOCUS ON CORE COMPETENCE Specialists in the retail trade are gaining increasing importance – something that the Aco agency with offices in Vienna, Salzburg and Düsseldorf has clearly understood. "We plan to intensify our collaborations in the established sportswear area," says Reinhard Haas, from Aco Vienna. "A very positive trend can be seen with Trussardi Jeans. And in the young casual segment there are high hopes for a new brand by Rob Schalker: A Fish Named Fred, which will debut at the Premium in Berlin."

Newcomers to the portfolio include the brands Phil Petter, which makes fashionable knitwear, and Gimos, an established Italian producer of leather, lambskin and cloth jackets. In the women's segment there is the Italian sneaker brand Diadora Heritage. Ice Iceberg is a great addition to the selection's fashion segment. "Accessories such as bags, shoes and small leather goods are making up an ever increasing proportion of nearly all designer collections," he says. In contrast to its Austrian big brother, the Düsseldorf Aco agency is again relying completely on contemporary fashion. "We've noticed that this is precisely what customers are looking for," says Michael Schulz, owner of Aco Düsseldorf. Here the additions to the portfolio are the brands DKNY Menswear, the complete Richmond Group, Husky, Ice Iceberg and Mademoiselle Tara by Tara Jarmon. Napapijri is represented by the company Aco Handels GmbH from Salzburg, which is focussing on intensifying collaborations in Austria and Eastern Europe. Furthermore, in the future the entire selection will become more widely diversified to meet all the demands of the growing market. The motto of the season at Aco is: "'The market is changing, and so are we' – in other words, we have to develop an eye for new things and boldly go where no agency has gone before.

Nothing is certain anymore."

Düsseldorf labels: Day Birger et Mikkelsen, 2nd Day, Designers Remix, DKNY Menswear, Diadora Heritage, Faith Connexion, Frankie Morello, geospirit, Husky, Ice Iceberg, Just Cavalli, Kyboe, Love Moschino, Mademoiselle Tara by Tara Jarmon, Pianura Studio, Richmond Denim, Richmond X, Sand, Versace Collection, Who is Who Aco Modeagentur GmbH, 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.acomode.de Vienna/Salzburg labels: A Fish Named Fred, C'N'C Costume National, Cappopera, Cinque, Cycle, Daughters of Eve, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Diadora Heritage, DKNY Menswear, Ermanno by Ermanno Scervino, Etiqueta Negra, Etoile du Monde, Faith Connexion, Galliano, GF Ferré, Gimos, Husky, ICE Iceberg, Just Cavalli, LBM 1911, Love Moschino, Maliparmi, Nurage, Phil Petter, Pianura Studio, Pierre Balmain, Riani, Richmond Denim, Richmond X, Sand, Sundek, Trapper Queens, Trussardi Jeans, Versace Collection, Versace Jeans, Who's Who Aco Modeagentur GmbH, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, 1010 Vienna/Austria, www.acomode.at

Masao Yamamoto for

WOOLRICH JOHN RICH & BROS FW 12 collection presentation PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO, Florence January 10TH -13TH MILANO MODA UOMO, WP Showroom - via Lombardini 20, January 16TH PROJECT VEGAS , February 13TH -15TH www.woolrich.it

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Aimo Richley offers innovative knitwear and good delivery times.

I.G. Ideageneration FULL SPEED AHEAD Noro Hoferer has big plans for his new sales and marketing agency I.G. Ideageneration: new Liebeskind showrooms in Hamburg and Düsseldorf, areas dedicated to the Italian brand Dondup and new additions to the collections of established suppliers like Aglini. Agency owner Hoferer sees good potential for the new line of clothing from Liebeskind, presented in winter 2011 in Berlin. "The shoe and clothing collection from Liebeskind is a growth factor for us." Dondup is one of the first brands that the agency has represented, and Hoferer believes that it has a very bright future: "The Italians are taking the time to build on qualitative and strategic growth. They trust us to find the right partners among existing and new customers that can grow together with Dondup." He's creating an infrastructure to support this growth: "with a larger team that offers a contact person for every brand, style-conscious presentation in the showrooms, and our own new press department, which will move into their own office together with the management here in Munich."

Labels: Aglini, Blaumax, Brodgen, Dondup, Liebeskind, MU Munich: I.G. Ideageneration, 80807 Munich/Germany; Düsseldorf: 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.ideageneration.de

Agentur Toepfer LABELS SHOULD DELIGHT "... and arouse positive emotions," says agency owner Udo Toepfer.

"Customers have to be convinced to buy a label immediately." It could be one like Aimo Richley, an innovative knitwear collection from Italy for men and women, which is new at Toepfer. "The brand is backed by a reliable company with good delivery times for our market," he says.

Also new is the Semi Couture womenswear collection, which is a mixture of vintage and luxury. Established brands such as Faliero Sarti, C.P. Company, Samantha Sung and HTC are part of the agency's range, which is committed to special niche labels with high standards.

"We go to the trade fairs in Paris, Milan, Florence, New York and Las Vegas and travel the world to visit the manufacturers," he says. "Doing this enables us to offer a quick, professional overview of the individual collections in our showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich." The agency will present its collection at Premium in Berlin as well as at Tranoï.

Labels: Aimo Richly, Barena, Blockindustrie, Blum, BP Studio, C.P. Company, Department 5, Faliero Sarti, Fine Collection, GMS 75, Goldbunny, HTC, Kristensen du Nord, Leigh & Luca, Mario Mattheo, Masnada, Novemb3r, Pagano, Riviera Club, Samantha Sung, Semi Couture, VSP, Zoe Karssen Agentur Toepfer, 40476 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.agentur-toepfer.com

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Big deal in the range of I.G. Ideageneration: the brand Dondup.

Š Copyright and Design Rights Pentland Chaussures Ltd. 2011. www.lacoste.com

AREA | SPORT & STREET HANGAR 1 BOOTH No. S 2

DELEVAN | A sophisticated outdoor-inspired work boot in premium Keman pull-up leather, with waxed canvas panel detailing.

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CP Fashion BORN IN CANADA, RAISED IN L.A. Highest quality denim and a great love for detail: the jeans brand 1921 features an elegant and much fresher style. Behind it all are the newly founded company 1921 True Indigo Apparel LLC in Los Angeles and their CEO Sven Oberstein, who works closely with the old design team at Western Glove. The company focuses only on European and Japanese products made exclusively in the U.S.A. and Europe. 1921 will still be distributed by the agency run by Reinhart Oberstein and his son Eric. They have appointed Ricardo Meyer Sales Manager and given him the task of expanding the customer base.

Alongside its 3x1 jeans collection, CP Fashion will also carry Brooklyn Motors men's shirts to complement its mainly denim portfolio. "Interesting new brands give retailers that special something that enables them to stand out," says Reinhart Oberstein, who displays his entire range in the showrooms in Düsseldorf and on the Lodenfey premises in Munich.

Labels: 3 x 1, 1921, Blood & Glitter, Brooklyn Motors, Custoline, Joe’s Jeans, Liam, Michael Stars, Mohn, Notify, Rising Sun, Robin’s Jean, Silver Jeans Co., Yummie CP Fashion, 40211 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.cpfashion.de

Spectacular and functional: Hell is for Heroes is back.

Agentur Schwarte YOU HAVE TO ATTRACT ATTENTION

Subtler, cleaner and more elegant: 1921 is taking a new direction.

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The Munich Agency Schwarte has expanded once again.

The US label Erin Snow, which was founded in 2003, is known for its high-end sportswear, winterwear, lifestyle products, and especially for their stirrup pants made of innovative stretchmaterial and coated jackets. “This product not only suits our core competence sportswear, it also supports our philosophy to always offer something new to our customers – apart from the well-known and established brands”, says Matthias Schwarte, owner of the agency.

Moreover, the Italian sportswear and skiwear label Hell is for Heroes is back. During a break in the summer season, the production was transferred from the Far East to Italy – enabling greater flexibility. “The collection is absolutely innovative spectacular models made out of functional material. Such styles have been very well received by our image-customers in the Austrian and Swiss skiing regions,” explains Schwarte. The season’s credo: “These days, sales only seem to work through emotion. Parajumpers is a prime example of this. They started seven years ago with only three jackets and now they are very successful. They embody the principle that you have to attract attention in order to awaken desire - and only desire puts the price into perspective.”

Labels: Alp-n-Rock, Armani Jeans, Benson N.Y., Citizens of Humanity, Erin Snow, Hell is for Heroes, Kieselstein Cord, Parajumpers, Sundek, Sundek by Neil Barrett, Vintage55 Matthias Schwarte Modeagentur, MS GmbH, 80807 Munich/Germany, www.agentur-schwarte.de

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Raab & Prues STIMULATION AND EMOTION

Fred Bschaden's (right) new right-hand man at Agentur Treibstoff: Andy Lösch (down).

"Focus on the core competencies" is the motto of the Munich agency Raab & Prues. Michael Prues and Wolfgang Raab are going into the autumn/winter 2012/13 ordering season with their established portfolio after successfully completing the pre-collections in winter 2011. Prues is convinced that even successful retailers won't increase their budgets for the coming season. This makes it all the more important to convey their concerns to suppliers, he says: "Listening to and recognising the needs of retailers is what counts these days." In their Munich show room, the dynamic duo and their staff intend to offer “stimulation and emotion,” and create a high-quality presentation for their purposely limited selection. "We expect that our partners in retail know how to present themselves innovative- and exclusively, so we also have to hold up our end of the bargain."

Labels: Boglioli (Agentur Raab), Capobianco, Club des Sports, Cristiano Fissore, Mackintosh, Mastai Ferretti, Meindl Leder, Roda, Truzzi Raab & Prues, 80805 Munich/Germany, www.rp-mode.de

Agentur Treibstoff ONE MAN SHOW OVER Andy Lösch joined Agentur Treibstoff in the summer of 2011. "The one-man show is over and Andy is an excellent addition," says Fred Bschaden. "Keep the best, leave the rest" is a key motto for the agency, where Bschaden focuses on enduring must-have products. "I call it slow wear," he says. "We score points with products that are sustainable and comprehensible, and by offering a perfectly balanced line-up where no two products occupy the same position." This season's product range again features Johnson Motors T-shirts made in the US. Long sellers include bags by Filson, Red Wing boots and fine menswear by Nigel Cabourn – brands that Bschaden has selected to create a solid foundation in stores.

He plans to upgrade services such as product training and work actively on his blog. Anyone who wants to directly experience this quality selection will have ample opportunity at the Pitti and Bread & Butter.

Label: Buttero, Gitman Vintage, GRP, Johnson Motors, Filson, Red Wing, Spiewak, Nigel Cabourn Agentur Treibstoff, 80796 Munich/Germany, www.agenturtreibstoff.com

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Roda

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Bread & Butter GOURMET BERLIN With a new location and two expansions, Bread & Butter is gearing up for a new round of trade fairs. 'Treasury' is the name of their current area, focussing on high-quality accessories.

Right at the entrance to the denim hall, individual accessories from jewellery and bags to watches and headphones - can be found on the upper floor, over a space of 800 square metres.

New labels such as Luise Keller, Pantone, and Wool and the Gang have 800 square metres of room, and even more space for this important revenue earner is expected to be created in the summer. There's also more space in L.O.C.K hall in the Fire Department - a new floor space in the old Tempelhof fire station where you'll come across individual designs from all over the world. Labels such as Dehen1920, Tellason, and Sportswear Reg. are exhibiting here in familiar settings, while Carhartt is a new entry is in the authentic hall. Even Sport & Street Hall is growing: D.O.C.K. (Department of Contemporary Keynotes) is to be used to present grown-up streetwear labels, limited collections, and sporty designer lines. The striking shipping container architecture 'docks' directly into the hall. The spectacular theatre event 'Fuerzabruta' heats up the Bread & Butter guests every evening with music and visual effects in the Sin Saloon.

On opening night, the electronic sounds of 2 Many DJs will be a highlight. 18-20 January 2012. www.breadandbutter.com

Premium FOCUSSED Some 1,200 collections from the up-scale segments of womenswear, menswear, shoes and accessories are the focus of the upcoming Premium and Premium Men. Seek is moving to a neighbouring building. In contrast to past seasons, Premium Men will not open in advance, but will instead run Concentrating on the core business: Premium and Premium Men parallel to the regular times.

The current winners of the Young Designers Award will be chosen on Tuesday, and their design sketches will later be on display at Galeries Lafayette. Their cooperation with young Japanese designers continues, presenting collections on the second floor, over a 300 square metre area.

Premium Berlin: 18-20 January 2012, Premium Order DĂźsseldorf: 4-7 February 2012, Premium Order Munich: 18-21 February 2012 www.premiumexhibitions.com

MBFW UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS This season the big guns at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week by Berlin's Brandenburg Gate will once again include designer greats such as Hugo Boss, Escada, Schumacher, Kaviar Gauche, Lala Berlin, Lena Hoschek, Kilian Kerner and Patrick Mohr. Alexandra Kiesel, winner of Peek & Cloppenburg DfT's Designer for Tomorrow award, will present her own collection for the first time. Another new addition will be the Chinese designer Wang Yutao, who is being sponsored by ELLE and Mercedes-Benz. And last but not least, Rebekka RuĂŠtz and Issever Bahri will hold their first big catwalk show. Around 50 shows and presentations are expected again in 2012.

18-21 January 2012, www.mercedes-benzfashionweek.com

Bringing even more variety to the portfolio: Bread & Butter with new segments.

Green Showroom GREEN TRADE The Green Showroom will take place at the Hotel Adlon on 18-20 January 2012. This fair for high-end green fashion expects roughly 35 exhibitors from the segments of women's outerwear, men's outerwear, children's outerwear, accessories and cosmetics. Stewart+Brown will be on hand as a new exhibitor. The partner event Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, which focuses primarily on sustainably produced street fashions and casualwear, will be held simultaneously at the Ewerk. Furthermore, in cooperation with Esmod Berlin, there will be a shop where young sustainable designer brands can display their products.

18-20 January 2012, www.green-showroom.net, www.ethicalfashionshowberlin.com

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Capsule BIGGER, BETTER The New York fashion show for new menswear and street fashion will take place for the second time on 19-20 January 2012 in the Alte Münze in Berlin. This year's Capsule is bigger and better now that it includes a new wing that offers exhibitors 300 square metres more space. In addition to high-quality designer collections from the menswear segment, there's an increasing focus on womenswear. What's more, on the evening of the last day of the fashion show, exhibitors will have an opportunity to take an air shuttle from Berlin to Paris to attend the follow-up event: Capsule in Paris. Capsule is organised by the BPMW Agency, with headquarters in Los Angeles and New York. Contacts for Germany are Nina and Steven Vogel from the Hamburg agency Blacklodges. New York (menswear): 16-17 January, Berlin: 19-20 January, Paris (menswear): 21-23 January, Las Vegas: 12-13 February, New York (womenswear): 20-22 February, Paris (womenswear): 03-05 March 2012, www.capsuleshow.com Igedo is going in new directions and will make a guest appearance for the first time at the Café Moskau in Berlin.

CPD Signatures ONE LAST GOODBYE In February 2012 an era at the Düsseldorf fairgrounds will come to an end. The Igedo Company is leaving the classic halls after the CPD Signatures winter event is over. From summer 2012 it will be renamed The Gallery Düsseldorf and take over new quarters with an area of 11,000 square metres in the Böhlerwerke at Düsseldorf-Oberkassel. The new event is aiming for a top-quality positioning. A preview of The Gallery Berlin will take place in January at the Café Moskau in Berlin-Mitte.

Around 80 collections will be shown there, including exhibitors such as Annett Röstel, Annette Görtz and Rundholz. The event is intended to stimulate orders in Düsseldorf. "The fashion market has changed completely in the last years," says Mirjam Dietz, Executive Director Fashion, "With both types of events in Germany, we're offering an excellent platform for clearly defined target groups," adds Philipp Kronen, Managing Partner at The Igedo Company.

The Gallery Berlin: 18-20 January 2012, 4-6 July 2012; CPD Signatures Düsseldorf: 4-6 February 2012; The Gallery Düsseldorf: 21-23 July 2012. www.igedo.com, www.cpd-signatures.com

The focus is more on womenswear in 2012.

GDS NEW LOOK

Flirt is the motto of the next event in January 2012 and it's already booked out.

Munich Fabric Start ALL BOOKED UP Flirt is the theme of the upcoming Munich Fabric Start in January 2012.

It was chosen to express a sense of joy, clarity, lightness and optimism, which are the watchwords for the new fabric season. The event is already all booked up. Organisers anticipate 800 exhibitors from over 35 countries who will be presenting their latest collections of fabrics and accessories for spring/summer 2013 at Munich's M,O,C. Another theme is sustainably produced fabrics. New exhibitors and the close proximity of the Eco Village and Organic Selection areas clearly put the spotlight on this topic.

The new platform Shirtings brings together providers of high-quality shirt fabrics in Hall 4. Furthermore, this year's show marks the launch of the R.M.S. – Ready Made Solutions area in the Blue Zone, where some 80 denim manufacturers and their suppliers will be showcasing their latest developments. The show's wide selection of finished products comes in response to buyers' requests for speed and flexibility.

31 January - 2 February 2012, www.munichfabricstart.com

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A new GDS will be presenting itself in March. "Inspiration to go" is the new tagline that the Cologne-based advertising agency Feuerland devised for GDS and used on all of the fair's marketing communications, posters, brochures and banners. "The fair is the place to be for decisionmakers from around the world. It sets trends and inspires people," says GDS fair manager Kirstin Deutelmoser. "Inspiration is there for everyone, both during and after the trade fair."

The inspiration theme will be taken up by a number of artists, who've been asked to make shoes for the campaign from polymer clay, ice, paper and feathers. 14-16 March, www.gds-online.com

"Inspiration to Go" is the motto of the upcoming GDS in March 2012.

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SELECTED AFishNamedFred ANYONE CAN BE FRED This fish could be a goldfish, a mackerel, a herring or even a shark. "Any fish could be Fred, in just the same way that anyone can emphasise their own style with the label," is how Rob Schalker explains his label A Fish Named Fred. He distributes such labels as MAC and NZA New Zealand Auckland. AFNF will be launched in 2012.

The label is Schalker's own baby – young, colourful and humorous. He describes the menswear as "a collection that's fun." It kicked off with colourful shirts and T-shirts in a beachwear/surfwear look and for the winter season will include down jackets in vibrant colours, coats, cargo pants and sweatshirts made of neoprene with teddy fur lining. Styles for women are in the pipeline. Shirts wholesale at 25 to 35 euros, hoodies at 45 to 60 euros, and jackets at 70 to 107 euros, with a markup of 2.8. The label also intends to launch a children's collection.

A Fish Named Fred, 1062 HH Amsterdam/The Netherlands, T 0031.20.6173685, Schalker@transit-textiles.com, www.afishnamedfred.com

Chevignon THE DUCK FLIES AGAIN Chevignon, one of France's most wellknown brands, was founded in Paris in 1979 by Guy Azoulay and made a name for itself in the '80s and '90s with its hip pilot jackets and its Togs Unlimited line of down jackets. The brand still has 40 stores of its own and approx. 950 points of sale in the retail trade. Many attempts over the years to raise the once so successful brand to the same level of popularity have met with little success.

Now "the" Chevignon product has returned: the down collection. Trademark features like removable sleeves, leather trim on the shoulders and the Chevignon duck logo on the back have been retained and are being gently revised. This limited line based on the genuine classics will be available in two annual collections, at retail prices ranging from 499 to 599 euros with a 2.6 markup. The product is being marketed via leading agencies to give it the necessary boost.

Chevignon, Ambre Ducher, 93807 Epinay sur Seine/France, T 0033.1.48138837, ambre.ducher@chevignon.fr, www.chevignon.com

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Erin Snow FASHION AND FUNCTION "It doesn't matter how well you can ski. If you look good, you feel good, and the rest comes automatically," says Erin Isakov, founder of the performance brand Erin Snow. The philosophy of the Canadian brand founded in 2003 revolves around making ski clothing that looks damned good – both on and off the slopes. Erin Snow is specialised in making jackets and coats out of waterproof, windproof and dirt-repellent material, and producing stretch trousers.. Every article features heat retention and dries quickly. "We work exclusively with specialists for performance clothing. Most articles are machine washable and particularly comfortable thanks to the elastic fabrics," says the designer." Celebrities like Sienna Miller, Regina King and Melonie Diaz already love her stuff.

Trousers sell wholesale for between 135 and 173 euros, jackets go for between 230 and 300 euros with a 2.6 markup. Since autumn/winter 2011, the brand has been available in Germany via Agentur Schwarte in Munich.

The Blue Agency, 10001 New York/USA, T 001.212.354.5678, email@blueagency.com, www.theblueagency.com, www.erinsnow.com

fratellirossetti.com // diehinterhofagentur.de

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Gloverall A MODERN CLASSIC

Stills STRENGTH THROUGH TRANQUILLITY

The first photos of duffle coats show them worn by members of the British Royal Navy during World War I. This coat was designed to protect servicemen from biting wind and rain, and featured special toggle-fastenings that could be easily opened with thick gloves. Today, it has stood the test of time virtually unchanged, making it a modern classic. The thickly-woven hooded wool coat with its large "walrus teeth" fastenings was named after the Belgian city of Duffel, but the troops quickly nicknamed it a "Monty coat," after Field Marshal Montgomery. In 1951 the British Ministry of Defence asked Freda and Harold Morris to help dispose of surplus supplies. For that purpose they established the Gloverall label. For over 60 years, Gloverall has offered compact collections of jackets that have become icons of British excellence, striking a perfect balance between modern and traditional styling. Retail prices range from 199 to 399 euros with a markup between 2.6 and 2.8.

Gloverall Plc., Earls Barton, Northants, NN6 OJE/UK, T 0044.1604.812812, info@gloverall.com, www.gloverall.com

It’s a fitting name: Headquartered in Amsterdam, the Veldhoven Group have chosen tranquillity as the motto for their label: soft, elegant jumpsuits in petrol blue or cherry red, flowing tops inspired by kimonos and full-length dresses with butterfly sleeves express the timeless, feminine fashion of Stills. The 2012 collection includes asymmetrical details, generous cutouts and patterns that conjure up structures of leaves and roots. The philosophy of tranquillity is not only worked into the collections: It can be found in a lookbook entitled "Forever Now" with photographs by Annemarieke van Drimmelen and Yvonne Brandwijk. The Stills store, which opened in Amsterdam in autumn 2011, created a shopping paradise and an oasis of peace at the same time.

The label was founded in 1994 and offers four order and six delivery dates a year. It is distributed in a total of eleven countries with a focus on Western Europe and Canada. Each collection is supplemented with a small accessory line. Wholesale prices range from 76 to 130 euros for dresses, 45 to 72 euros for trousers and 145 to 184 euros for jackets. Prices for jersey and knit range from 25 to 72 euros with a markup of 2.7.

Stills/Veldhoven Germany, Oliver Fischer, 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.172.2822078, oliver.fischer@veldhovengroup.com, www.stills.eu

Peng Caesar PUNK IN VELVET A symbiosis of rock’n’roll eccentricity and understatement – that’s how Ansgar Dorenkamp envisages his label Peng Caesar, which he founded in Berlin in 2005. The jackets and blazers are made of velvet, wool and leather, with details like a metallic skull as a sleeve button that reveal Dorenkamp's passion for punk. The label's fans now include no less than Iggy Pop ever since Dorenkamp sent two blazers to the musician's hotel room. "Nobody could personify the philosophy better than the godfather of punk," he says. In addition, there are belts, ties and handkerchiefs – and now also a womenswear line that can be viewed in the showroom in Berlin and in Düsseldorf via www.sales-affairs.de.

Blazers for men and women cost 139 to 164 euros wholesale, and a leather jacket goes for 490 euros. www.pengcaesar.com Sales-Affairs, 50672 Cologne/Germany, T 0049.221.29931488, info@sales-affairs.de Valentina Schupke, 50674 Cologne/ Germany, T 0049.221.16894861, sales@pengcaesar.com

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info@ig-liebeskind.de

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Tigha SECOND SKIN Since 2009 the Tigha label has sought to provide high-quality, stylish leather jackets at a fair price. "At Tigha we design and make what we like and want to wear ourselves everyday," says founder Asem Chaudhary from parent company ACTC. Stars like The Hives, Jan Delay, Two Door Cinema Club, Skin from Skunk Anansie, Bastian Schweinsteiger and Sebastian Vettel are already fans of the lambskin jackets that are available for both men and women. The collection consists of leather jackets with details such as wires worked into the leather or tight biker cuts in subdued shades. Appealing: The purchase prices are between 110 and 170 euros with a markup of 2.7.

The extended range of jackets, shirts, trousers, skirts and dresses will premier in summer 2012. The complete collection will be supplemented in winter with twill trousers and jersey wear. Tigha can be found at retail stores in Germany such as Jades in Düsseldorf, Stierblut in Munich and Greta & Luis in Berlin.

ACTC GmbH, Asem Chaudhary, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.56693780, asem@actc-group.com, ww.tigha.com

Died ECLECTIC HANDCRAFTS During a trip around the world in 2010, the Dutch Diederik Verbakel and Marieke Holthuis decided to start their own women’s fashion and jewellery label.

They work together with local craftsmen to get the best result for their concept and designs. During the design process, which they finalize with the artisans, they find out which region or location is best for a certain technique, like embroidery, dyeing and textile printing. The spring/summer 2012 collection is based on waterspray dyes and prints. DIED’s style is creative, exclusive and pretty extravagant.

Not for the masses, it’s definitely for those who embrace hand crafts in a non-folkloric, modern way and who love delicate, natural materials. Wholesale prices range between 48 and 100 euros for shirts and 100 to 300 euros for jewels, dresses and jackets.

DIED, Aalten/The Netherlands, T 0031.543.472027, info@diedworld.com, www.diedworld.com

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Marlino PARKAS WITH CHARACTER Beaten by wind and weather, faded by sun and sea – the parkas and field jackets made by the Munich-based label Marlino speak volumes - even if the vintage look is not created by time but with the help of special dyeing and washing techniques. The look is offset by the use of materials such as fur, leather and wool. Using boyfriend-look parkas and field jackets with a rather voluminous silhouette as the starting point, Marlino developed a unisex concept in sizes XXS to XL that can hug the figure tightly or be worn more loosely. A removable button-in jacket liner made from rabbit fur or merino wool and hoods with fur trim are some of the outdoor jacket's standard features. The jackets are available in colours ranging from olive green to dark navy blue through black to mud and black in an oil-dye look.

Wholesale prices average 335 euros with a markup of 2.6. The label offers two collections a year, which are available in upmarket shops and from December 2011 in the label’s own online shop.

Die Hinterhofagentur, Dominik Meuer and Lars Fischer, 80802 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.38887747, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.marlino.de Phantom SA, Ueli Broger and Stefanie Beckers, 8152 Glattbrugg-Zurich/Switzerland, T 0041.44.3113377, info@phantomsa.ch, www.marlino.de

Floris van Bommel Shoemaker since 1734

Daniel Br端hl Actor

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Clip & Rope BOOTS MADE TO LAST The story of Clip & Rope goes back to the year 1932. At the time, a hermit named John Harvey lived in Smoky Mountain, Wisconsin. According to legend, one day Harvey was hit by a massive mudslide. Driven by his iron will to survive, he managed to walk barefoot back to his cabin, and it was this experience that inspired him to make his own durable hiking boots. Harvey’s death in the ‘70s appeared to spell the end of Clip & Rope Boots. But they were rediscovered and revived in 2003. The 2012 spring/summer collection focuses on outdoor themes with variations made of leather and waxed canvas. This legendary footwear is now also available in collaboration with Copenhagen trend store Pede & Stoffer. All boots are manufactured in limited quantities in Portugal. Clip & Rope is marketed and distributed in Japan, the UK, Sweden, Italy, Norway and the US – and starting with the 2011 autumn/winter season also in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Wholesale prices for the boots range from 79 to 108 euros, with a 2.5 markup. Two collections are launched annually.

Clip & Rope, 2100 Copenhagen/Denmark, T 0045.39161740, ks@vernon.dk, www.vernon.dk, www.clipandrope.com

Allesausliebe by Milla K LOVE AT FIRST AND SECOND GLANCE Designs with so much subtle elegance that you only notice their sophistication on second glance – that’s the Allesausliebe collection by Hamburg jewellery designer Milla Kluch.

Her chains, bracelets and earrings are all made by hand and she uses only pure 925 silver – often gold-plated – along with coral branches, mother-of-pearl and selected semi-precious stones. Luminous colours, flowing forms and subtle cuts are the hallmarks of Milla K’s creations. At the heart of the jewellery collection are lovingly crafted, tasteful pendants: anchors, leaves, stars and hearts.

The radiant array of colours produces appealing contrasts. Milla K is already busy making plans for the future: Exclusive one-ofa-kind pieces made of real gold are the next step. Wholesale prices for Allesausliebe jewellery range from 22.70 to 88 euros, with a 2.6 markup.

Allesausliebe, Milla Kluch, Hamburg/Germany, T 0049 176 76244596, milla@allesausliebe.net, www.allesausliebe.net

Radicalfash PROVOCATIVE DUTCHMEN Bold, different, sophisticated – and a bit grim.

The Dutch shirt label Radicalfash was founded in 2011 and steadfastly refuses to join the ranks of the fashion mainstream. When asked about the company's history, Creative Director Mike van't Velt simply replies: "We don't have a slick story, we just make cool clothes!" And that basically sums up this label that annually launches six collections on the market and adheres to a NOS system: fashion for men and women – without all the hype. It features a provocative look that plays with the logos of major brands. Retail prices range from 49.95 to 79.95 euros and have a 2.7 markup. In Amsterdam the shirts are available at Cosmic Cowboys Amsterdam and at Velvet Magna Plaza Amsterdam. So far there are no sales partners in Austria, Germany and Switzerland.

Radical Showroom, 1391 XG Abcoude/Netherlands, T 0031.294.750.950, info@radicalfash.com, www.radicalfash.com

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AI-Riders On The Storm WHAT SUPERHEROES WEAR Mountain Force HIGH-END SKIWEAR The development of Mountain Force ski clothing is based on experience and expertise.

The Swiss development team knows what high-quality ski equipment requires – and the athletes live the spirit of their brand. A company developed high-tech fabric makes this ski clothing light as a feather and a pleasure to wear. Thanks to the Fullflex System, it features high elasticity and freedom of movement, while a ceramic membrane makes it breathable, watertight and windproof. The design of this high-end skiwear is simple yet elegant. Particular attention is given to details like asymmetrical zip garages. The brand annually launches a winter collection on the market. Ski jackets cost wholesale between 599 and 999 euros, and ski trousers go for between 399 and 549 euros. Retailers of Mountain Force include Sport Strolz in Lech am Arlberg, Sport Jennewein in St. Anton as well as Cole Sport and Brass Ranch in the US. Mountain Force AG, Judith Eicher/Ricardo Espelleta, 6343 Rotkreuz/Switzerland, T 0041.79.667.1767, ricardo. espelleta@mountainforce.com, judith.eicher@mountainforce.com, www.mountainforce.com

Muks FAMOUS FOOTWEAR Mukluks: These warm and comfortable boots has been worn in Canada for centuries. Although they were originally designed for hunting in the snow, Jaime Cooke created a new chapter for this famous footwear when she founded the London label Muks in 2003. Her goal was to create a warm shoe with a high fashion edge. She designed a line of shoes based on the traditional mukluk that stand for high quality and draw their inspiration from Canada’s indigenous peoples. Bead designs and colours represent different North American tribes, including Cree, Ojibwa, Sioux and Dene.

Muks are crafted from leather and hare and rabbit fur. The durable crepe sole is made of 100 per cent natural rubber and the lining consists of either high-grade fleece or sheepskin. Each boot is made by hand. Faux fur models are also available. Wholesale prices range from 150 to 185 euros with a 2.5 markup. Two collections are released annually and sold by retailers such as Abseits in Stuttgart, Apropos in Cologne and Maendler in Munich.

Muks LTD, SE1 7QY London/UK, T 0044.207.9538226, muks@muklukstore.com, www.muklukstore.com

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Legends of superheroes are the stuff not only of film and literature, but also the world of fashion. Giovanni Chicco is the designer and owner of AI-Riders On The Storm, a brand with two registered patents for design and utility. The trademark of these innovative jackets, available with or without lining, is an all-over zipper that completely covers the face and perfectly matches the wearer’s movements. Futuristic and practical: The hood has two exchangeable integrated lenses that allow for peripheral vision and are available in a number of variations, either anti-reflective or clear. The jackets are particularly light and made of high-quality materials. Giovanni Chicco: "I wanted to make a jacket that spoke the language of today's young people."

The spring/summer and autumn/winter 2011/12 collections were sold only in Italy, but from spring/summer 2012/13 they will also be available on the international market.

Wholesale prices are about 130 euros and retail prices at around 339 euros.

Comei & Co., Valeria Della Peruta, 20146 Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.424148.90, valeriadellaperuta@comeiandco.com, www.comei.com, www.ai-storm.com

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Lolly’s Laundry FUNCTIONAL LUXURY This label founded in 2007 by Kamilla Byril simply can’t hide its Danish origins: Lolly’s Laundry is feminine fashion created by a fusion of nostalgic elements and playful details. Unpretentious dresses and tops with highly detailed cuts made of materials like silk, cotton and cashmere are designed to complement a woman’s wardrobe and either upgrade or downgrade her outfits. These beloved articles of clothing soon land in the laundry bin and live up to the name of the label. With Lolly’s Laundry the designer intends to combine elegant and functional elements to create a style that she describes as both timeless and contemporary. "Affordable luxury" is the term that Byril uses to describe her collections, two of which are launched every year. Wholesale prices start at 25 euros for shirts and range to 100 euros for cashmere cardigans. Lolly’s Laundry can be seen at the Gallery international fashion fair in Copenhagen and the PREMIUM in Berlin. Sales also take place via the label’s own online shop.

Lolly’s Laundry, 2100 Copenhagen/ Denmark, T 0045.3581.5000, info@lollyslaundry.com, www.lollyslaundry.com

The Style Is Yeah HIP BAGS WITH A NEW TWIST Practical, but not stylish: Conventional hip bags are not the most striking accessories in the world, at least according to Munich designer Sani Gulic. This realisation prompted her to create her label The Style Is Yeah and her creation The Bowhipbag – a hip bag that, at first glance, looks like a coloured bow. The designer interprets her work as a "new twist on the infinity symbol." The bags were launched in 2011 and are available in small, medium and large – either as ready-made products or as unique articles crafted to customer specifications. There are a wide range of materials and designs to choose from. The high-quality leather comes exclusively from Europe and all manufacturing is done in Munich. Sales prices range from 198 to 360 euros, with two collections annually. Gulic currently wholesales her bags herself, and an online store serves the growing interest of consumers.

The Style is Yeah, Sani Gulic, 80337 Munich/Germany, T 0049.163.567.46.57, welcome@thestyleisyeah.com, www.thestyleisyeah.com

Customer Lovers CULT REINVENTIONS The knitwear label Customer Lovers is featured in the new collection of Fashion Consulting S.r.l. and is the result of the merger of two established fashion firms: Pozzi Confezioni S.r.l, which sells brands like Private Lives, and Brain Management S.r.l., a well-known Italian sales and marketing company. The idea behind Customer Lovers is to create cult-like fashion statements that are primarily characterised by originality and creativity. The stated goal of the Customer Lovers collection is to periodically focus on an article and reinvent it. It started out with a handmade jacket that was influenced by Japanese styles. This will be available in twelve unique versions for men and women. There is also a collection of two-by-two-metre shawls printed with carefully selected details of famous photo motifs.

Wholesale prices range from 110 to 130 euros.

Fashion Consulting S.r.l., Showroom Naples, 81131 Naples/Italy, T 0039.081.0116.144, info@fashionconsultingsrl.com, www.fashionconsultingsrl.com Fashion Consulting S.r.l., Showroom Eboli, 84025 Salerno/Italy, T 0039.082.8212.182, info@fashionconsultingsrl.com, www.fashionconsultingsrl.com

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three-2-one.com

Meet us at fairs: Modefabriek Amsterdam CIFF Kopenhagen New York MRket Dallas Market Chicago Collective West Coast Trend Show Los Angeles Charlotte, Southern Men´s Market Las Vegas Market CPM Moskau Hot 1 Salzburg Hot 2 Salzburg Fashion Salzburg ÖSFA Salzburg Next Season Poznan Showrooms: Hamburg, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Mönchengladbach, Eschborn, Sindelfi ngen, München Worldwide: FR, CND, USA, NL, DK, SE, CH, NO, BE, AT, PL, RUS, IT, GR, IRL, J

www.alberto-pants.com

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Kikoyland KENYA’S TRADITION BECOMES FASHION Colourful, adaptable and diverse – there are many ways to describe kikoy cotton scarves, shawls and wraps that have ventured beyond their native Kenya and become a hit in the world’s major fashion centres. Kikoys have been worn for centuries by sailors and coastal residents to protect themselves from the wind. These days, however, their fashionable appeal and a charity aspect are what the buzz is all about. Kikoyland promotes the production in Kenya. Indeed, the cloth is exclusively manufactured on location, woven from the finest combed cotton, and the fringes are twisted by hand into the characteristic braids. The kikoys are available with countless different stripes and colour combinations, and in different sizes. There are also classic and soft kikoys, which are available in generously large sizes measuring 150 x 92 cm and 160 x 92 cm, and are often used as bath towels or home accessories. Smaller sizes and accessories, such as belts and key holders, are also manufactured by Kikoyland.

Wholesale prices for the wraps are 22 euros, belts cost 11 euros, with a markup of 2.7. Sales are handled by Roemer & Péus.

Kikoyland, Roemer & Péus, 10115 Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30. 99296936, info@kikoyland.de

Hip Hip Hooray JUMP FOR JOY The small but sweet knitwear collection Hip Hip Hooray was launched by Munich's Hinterhofagentur, owned by Lars Fischer and Dominik Meurer. Meurer's wife is responsible for the design of these delightful cashmere and wool articles. "We wanted to give retailers an upscale selection of fun articles that are whimsical yet made to very high standards. Even a basic article from Hip Hip Hooray always has something extra, a detail that makes it special," says Meurer. The collection shows great courage when it comes to colours – a lesson that the Hinterhofagentur team learned from experience. "You just have to dare to give customers colours, and then they'll sell," he adds. The entire collection is manufactured in Italy, and not just because of intricate details like inlaid work: Retail prices of 169 to 399 euros, with a 2.9 to 3.0 markup, prove that products made in Italy can command respectable market prices.

Die Hinterhofagentur, 80802 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.388.877.4748, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

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Awareness & Consciousness TIMELESS AND FOR ALL SEASONS Designer Christiane Gruber studied under Viktor & Rolf, Raf Simons and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac at the University for Applied Arts in Vienna. She acquired additional experience under Haider Ackermann and A.F. Vandevorst before she launched Awareness & Consciousness in 2005. In 2008 her label received the coveted Vienna Fashion Award. After a maternity leave, Gruber has started work again and is focusing on an all seasons collection with 20 prototypes that can be reordered. Wholesale prices range from 38 euros for scarves to 60 euros for tops and 160 euros for elaborate dresses, made of either high-grade and soft-wearing 100 per cent viscosejersey or 95 per cent cotton with 5 per cent elasten-jersey. The garments are produced in Hungary and Germany; fabric processing takes place in Austria.

Customers include PARK and Wubet in Vienna and Das Neue Schwarz in Berlin.

Arne Eberle Sales, 10407 Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.78087858, hi@arneeberle.de, www.awarenessandconsciousness.com

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Die ARQUEONAUTAS Men und Women Kollektion wird in Zusammenarbeit mit den weltweit erfolgreichen marinearchäologischen Tauchern der „Arqueonautas, Arqueologia Subaquática S.A., Portugal“ entwickelt. Mit dem Kauf eines Produktes von ARQUEONAUTAS unterstützt der Käufer mit 1,- Euro die Erhaltung des weltmaritimen Kulturguts.

autumn autum i t winter

2012

www.bloom-fashion.com

PREMIUM BERLIN 18.01.– 20.01.2012

Halle 7 – D45

CPD

03.02.– 05.02.2012

UNITED FASHION Rather Str. 49e, 2.OG, 40476 Düsseldorf

CPH VISION

02.02.– 04.02.2012

Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, 142C

MUNICH CH FASHION A 18.02.– 21.02.2012

AGENTUR STECKEL Hirschauer Straße 12, 80538 München

AGENTUR TOEPFER RATHER STRASSE 49 C 40476 DUESSELDORF PHONE +49 (0)211 13 06 36 0 WWW.AGENTUR-TOEPFER.COM

AIMO RICHLY BARENA BLUE OF VESPUCCI BLOCKINDUSTRIE BLUM BP STUDIO CP COMPANY DEPARTMENT 5 E/KOLLINS FALIERO SARTI FINE COLLECTION GMS – 75 GOLD BUNNY GOTI HTC JUCCA LEIGH & LUCA MASNADA NOVEMB3R SAMANTHA SUNG SEMI COUTURE V.SP… WET CEMENT

AUTUMN/WINTER 2012

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Kurino's reputation precedes him: not only as a fashion guru and expert, but also as an excellent observer of the European fashion scene.

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"We Want to Tell Stories!"

Hirofumi Kurino is co-founder and creative adviser to the Japanese retail chain United Arrows. His reputation precedes him as a fashion guru, style oracle and menswear luminary whose recommendations lend an air of sophistication to every product. Even big-name designers listen to his advice. But Kurino, as he's called, is also a keen observer of the European fashion scene. In this interview he reveals the weaknesses as well as the strengths and opportunities of the retail trade.

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Bernhard Musil

I

In Japan they cultivate the great tradition of storytelling – a tradition that the retail sector, in your opinion, can use to its advantage. Do we have to tell stories to sell fashion?

Hirofumi Kurino: It's all about the communi-

cation between a salesperson and a customer.

From the moment they start a conversation, they enter a certain relationship. This communication is the key to the entire sales situation – it decides everything. If the salesperson could provide the customer with a very good and meaningful story about the product, it creates a strong bond between them. Japanese consumers are sometimes downright crazy about well-made things.

They love to have more details about them,

such as the technical features of a camera or hand-made shoes.

Is this true for both men and women?

Men need more advice. Men's clothing is quite simple: a jacket, shirt, trousers, and a coat. On the other hand a man interested in fashion wants a precise fitting look – a pair of trousers that is three millimetres too short or too long could be a disaster to them. By contrast, women are by far more interested in colours, fabrics and designs.

Women are probably also more concerned about whether the article fits right and makes them look sexy.

There is a big cultural dfference between Japan and Europe. In Japan there is no class system or hierarchy. That's why the social

aspect of clothing is not an issue. When the Japanese wear Western fashions, they don't wear them for sexual reasons.

So sex appeal in clothing is not so important for the Japanese?

At least not in the same way. When it comes to the kimono – the traditional Japanese garment – sex appeal plays a role. Kimonos are only available in one cut, but the size, fabrics, patterns and embroidery differ. These small details, however, can be very significant. Women in the entertainment industry wear the kimono to reveal the neck and the nape of the neck. Or they position their feet in a certain way when they sit on the floor on tatami mats. In Japan sexiness isn't conveyed through the clothing or by showing style in progress 112

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"A salesperson who can tell customers a good and meaningful story about the product is able to connect with them from the beginning." Kurino Hirofumi

much skin. We Japanese adapt Western fashions, but not their sex appeal. From a historical perspective, it wasn't until the '20s that the Japanese discovered the elegance of western clothing, but sexiness wasn't an important aspect. Although our culture was heavily influenced in the '50s by Western post-war culture with people like Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe, we merely adapted the fashions, but the sex icons didn't actually become our icons.

So I don't think that we have the same way of dressing to seduce the opposite sex.

How do the salespeople at United Arrows tempt their customers into buying? And how does the company's management motivate them to do so?

We have a range of expensive well-made products in all our stores. Each comes with its own story, which our salespeople can tell.

They learn everything about the product and its heritage, and they try to share this knowledge.

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Are Japanese salespeople more enthusiastic about "their" products than Europeans?

I'm absolutely sure of it. Salespeople in Japan don't work on a commission basis, which is common in Europe and the United States. This strategy merely increases the pressure to make a sale, but in my opinion friendliness and building up relationships is a much better approach.

Is that the biggest difference between the European and the Japanese way of selling? In European high-end fashion stores, the arrogance of the staff often appears to be part of the strategy...

I think so. But, of course, there are also positive examples in Europe of how relationships can be developed between the retailers and customers. Take a shop in a small Italian town that has been around for decades. Generations of customers come here to shop, grandmothers as well as mothers, daughters and nieces. They all know

each other. A special customer loyalty has emerged here as well.

Relationships are the beginning. What else is important here?

Service. Perhaps you're familiar with the Aman Resorts hotel group, which has hotels in places like Indonesia and Phuket, Thailand. In the '80s and '90s, these ranked among the most expensive and luxurious establishments in the world, with large numbers of employees who were solely responsible for service. They were masters of discretion but, at the same time, able to anticipate their guests' every wish. The service idea behind Aman comes from Japan: During a visit to Kyoto, the original founder of the hotel chain was inspired to establish Aman Resorts. It was a huge success.

At United Arrows the sense of service goes so far that senior executives sometimes visit clients to apologize for poor service...

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In Japan United Arrows sets the standards with exclusive store and fashion. Shown here are two motifs from the customer magazine.

Photographer: Wataru, Art Direction: Nagakura Tomohiko.

According to our philosophy, everyone in the company is a salesperson. Everyone serves the customer, even our Vice President. If there's a problem between customers and sales staff that our employees can't resolve on their own, then management steps in. If the customer is still upset, our boss visits him at home to apologize. It very rarely happens, but it does sometimes.

A nice gesture!

For the past 10 years we've also had a telephone service where we receive requests, questions and complaints. It may take an entire week to satisfy a customer. But when we manage to do that, it's well worth the effort.

United Arrows has many exclusive multilabel stores in Japan. What makes them so successful?

We try to remain interesting and attractive for our customers. For instance, we collaborated with the highly respected Japanese magazine Brutus to produce a fashion issue 112 style in progress

focused exclusively on United Arrows, which included stories about our staff and their style. There was also a photo story about me, where I was followed for a whole day at the Paris Fashion Week. These stories show our clients how hard we work. My life doesn't consist of daily fashion parties. I'm just like everyone else; I ride the metro and take the bus. Of course it's my job to travel, make purchases for the stores, and meet people.

But it's also fun, and most of the people we work with have the same spirit. We Japanese take our work personally. It's not a job; it's a lifestyle.

So you live your work more than most Europeans?

I'd say so. Say we are working on a project and it still isn't finished at 7:00 p.m., nobody goes home. We keep on going until the job is finished.

What does a product need to be sellable?

What makes it irresistible?

Ever since the Fukushima and tsunami crisis,

we Japanese have become aware that our lives could just end tomorrow . We really must ask ourselves why we'd spend money on poor-quality items. When we buy something, we want it to be genuine. Now, after the disaster in Japan, this feeling has grown even stronger. That's why fast fashion sales have declined so much. But even the luxury brands have suffered losses because their prices had soared to unrealistic heights.

We've also seen this phenomenon in recent years in Europe, when luxury brands charged excessive prices. The economic crisis has brought people back down to earth.

We simply don't want to steal money from our customers. Being an honest retailer is the most difficult part of all. If we weren't honest and our customers didn't love us, we couldn't survive.

We have so many natural disasters in Japan such as earthquakes and typhoons. It makes us feel vulnerable and fear that we may have

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FINE ITALIAN JACKETS SINCE 1936

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"Europe is no longer the great model. The Japanese fashion market is making vast progress. We're able to produce the best products. We're perfectionists." Kurino Hirofumi

no tomorrow, but at the same time, we want to feel strong.

Buy a piece of eternity with good products?

That hits the nail on the head. Then there's the originality factor. For example, these shoes I'm wearing by Rosa Mosa come from Austria. The design is traditional, but a piece of leopard-printed pony skin has been placed in the uppers, a very intriguing idea. We always try to find such interesting and wellmade products for our customers. The same can be said of Florian, another Austrian designer of accessories, but without a sissy attitude. Last summer we sold more than 300 of his commodities to men alone. This shows us that customers want original products, and that a big name doesn't play a role in their decisions.

What about big brands and the stereotype of the brand-obsessed Japanese? Louis Vuitton, for instance...

That's how it used to be, up til the '90s.

What caused this to change?

In the case of Louis Vuitton, it had to do with their strategy of becoming younger and more affordable. The brand tried to present its bags with street art in collaboration with an avant-garde artist: Takashi Murakami.

This may have revived the brand, but at the 112 style in progress

same time it confused long time customers and could have hurt the brand. Nowadays, Japanese consumers have moved on to living a healthy life and away from brand obsession.

So there's an entirely new kind of awareness?

Yes. Immediately after the tsunami, I told a Japanese journalist that our country would change; the young people would start taking an interest in philosophy, literature and culture again, and that their social awareness would increase. The interesting reality is that these young people are now organising antinukes demonstrations.

What does this mean for fashion and United Arrows?

This development is very good for us because we're serious about what we do. It's great for us to see that people are starting to look at quality more seriously, and ask themselves why they buy things. The situation has changed quite a bit; now customers are spending money on a product even if it is unknown or expensive, because they recognise the value of it.

Is "made in Europe" still a key seal of approval in Japan?

I don't think so. But we prefer do products that testify to their origin and have charac-

ter. Frankly, it doesn't seem easy to me for German brands to sell abroad. In Germany brands like Escada and Hugo Boss stand for quality and prestige, but to an Italian, the look could just as well be French or American because it doesn't reveal its own identity.

What happened to Europe's role as a fashion model for Japan?

In my opinion, Europe is no longer the great model. The Japanese fashion market is making vast progress. We're able to produce the best products. We're perfectionists.

You've also begun to sell abroad Camoshita by United Arrows, a menswear label you designed yourself.

This is our top brand in the men's range: traditional with a new feeling. Last year in particular it was extremely successful because "made in Japan" is experiencing a boom in countries like Italy and Korea. But we're also enjoying rapid sales of Camoshita in our own stores, where we offer the brand together with other products.

What's important for the mix in a multibrand store if it's to survive?

Many retailers are only on the lookout for new labels and celebrity fashions. This kind of hype is highly overestimated. When a celebrity wears a certain outfit or a blogger posts something, it's all about the novelty

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"Europe should rely more on its intuition and its own identity, and less on marketing and mass production."

Kurino Hirofumi

and has nothing to do with the product itself. Ultimately, such product assortments only show a lack of genuine understanding of consumers and their desires. We should be more honest with our customers. Their lives don't only consist of fashion, and it's not just about the Olsen Sisters or Kate Moss. What's more interesting is the proverbial girl next door.

So it has to do with the genuine needs of customers...

... what kind of lifestyle a customer has, how they spend their money, what trends they follow. That's what we're interested in, and it's important to learn from the information that the customers give us.

So Japan is now the model for the European retail sector?

We learned from Europe first of all. The United Arrows team came to Europe for the first time 26 years ago, to visit the Paul Smith store in London. The salespeople were stylish, friendly and courteous. That's exactly how we wanted to be! But when we returned to Europe 20 years later, the salespeople only chatted with each other and didn't look after the customers at all. On our first trip, we learned a lot from these stores and salespeople. However, I feel that now there is no growth in this present 112 style in progress

generation. Europe must re-discover its original beauty, in order to move ahead once again.

You often come to Europe. What attracts you?

Tower Records is a well-known chain store, it has to communicate and consider even in small ways what its customers want. That is what leads to the brand's and stores' sustainability.

Europe has culture and history. That's why I keep coming back for even longer periods.

Interesting products influenced by this culture inspire me. Europe should rely more on its intuition and its own identity, and less on marketing and mass production.

What do you do differently?

Today, there are the same stores in every city...

Only if they perform well and the quality is spot on. Time and again, it's all about the product.

And this is pure suicide! Even with a retail chain you can create interesting stores that focus more on the distinctive characteristics of each individual city. Did you know that Tokyo is the best city for buying vinyls and CDs? There are still independent records and CD stores here, which have largely disappeared in Europe. Tower Records still exists in Japan, and publishes two high quality free magazines called Bounce and Tower. These small efforts can make a big difference. If Tower Records had only tracked the top 100s, the company would have gone out of business a long time ago.

Perhaps fashion is in the same situation.

Fashion retail must learn to follow such approaches towards our customers. Even if

We try to remain imaginative and innovative. Even with the large labels, we simply say "stop" if the fashion isn’t interesting.

So large labels are not necessary to attract customers?

Thank you for the interview!

United Arrows was founded in 1989 with its only one store-brand name and now has 163 points of sale throughout Japan.

There are approximately 57 retail outlets that serve the premium market under the United Arrows name.

Well-known brands in the product range of United Arrows store-brand include Comme des Garcons, Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent, Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten.

The ratio of their own brands to other buying brands is 60:40.

Mens' and womens' clothing makes up approximately 90 per cent of the product range, jewellery and lifestyle-related miscellaneous items the remaining 10 per cent.

www.0039italy.com

Men no longer have to go out of their way to be stylish. Today's style goes out of its way to meet their needs.

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CONCEPT 075

Men + Fashion

What Do You Want?

Today's trend should speak to them from the heart: rugged and masculine with a touch of adventure. What's the true story? Does a specific look make a man more fashionable? How do men shop and what do they really want?

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands

ut with the androgynous look and pale boys in pseudo-intellectual fashion outfits, in with real men.

Full beards. Fishing and hunting looks. This is the man we see at fashion trade shows, the one brands are now happy to promote true to style against rugged backdrops. Freedom.

Simplicity. Back to basics in a world that is becoming ever more complex. "The rugged style appeals to real men, to their basic needs," says Thomas Wartner, Managing Director of Stulz men's store. "Rugged and classic is the perfect combination in uncertain times like these."

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Men Not Boys. The current look is a clear celebration of masculinity - at least for those of us working in fashion. Out on the street

things are different: men in uncool jeans, sneakers and practical, functional jackets over suits. "It's pragmatism over fashion," says Susanne Bielen, Country Manager for Germany at the Belgian brand R95th.

"Most men don't want to spend too much time thinking about clothes, so they choose things they can wear on as many occasions as possible."

The brands actually have a lot of innovative things to offer like reinterpreted designs and styles, vivid structures with an unusual look and feel, and vibrant colours - looks that are exciting and wearable although many of them remain in the showrooms. "The buyers always admire our stand at Bread and Butter because they see that our style thrives on the total look," says Bielen. "But once in the style in progress 112

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showroom, they only buy ten shirts and three trousers instead of the complete look they raved about at the trade show." This makes it hard to pass on any enthusiasm to the end consumers. The question is: Are men not buying fashion because they don't want to or because there's not a lot for them to buy.

"There's always some message loss," says Til Nadler, Managing Director and Sales Manager at Closed. "Even if we don't sell every "Men in their 40s are busy earning a living. They're not really interested in fashion; quality is more important.

Brands are supposed to rid them of their burden, be reliable." Andreas Baumgärtner, member of Marc O'Polo's Board of Directors and Director of of Design, Production and Licensing

complete outfit to every retailer, we do see that they're happy to receive a well-expressed idea and statement about the interaction between colours and materials. And more and more retailers are recognising that they should buy the look of a brand if it does have a distinct look to offer. We're right in the middle of a learning process."

Retail is having a hard time right now. "End consumers are on edge because they don't know what the future will bring. Will there be inflation or not?" says Andreas Baumgärtner, member of the Marc O'Polo Board of Directors in charge and Director of Design, Production and Licensing. "We need more positive vibes. But that's not the only reason why the collections have to be pepped up for customers, like with a cheerful bright green jacket at the checkout counter.

Men's Club. Selling to men means understanding them and their needs - and bearing the store's location in mind. Rough-andtough works well in Berlin Mitte, but not necessarily in Berlin Charlottenburg.

Amorph's clients, for example, are mainly businessmen, entrepreneurs and bankers. "A manly look is good, but only up to a certain point," says owner Christian Brennenstuhl.

"I think this Jack Wolfskin issue is fascinating. There seem to be a lot of real nature boys or secret Messners among us!" Til Nadler, Managing Director and Sales Manager at Closed

"Men like a red-checked flannel shirt and used jeans, but they think the combination's overdone. My clients never wanted to be pump attendants or lumberjacks. It's mostly little things that bother them: Dark denim is out of the question because the Ferrari has pale leather seats. Red Wing Boots are cool but because the client needs them this evening, he doesn't have 10 days to wear them in and wait to get the right patina."

According to the stereotype, women go 112 style in progress

shopping four times a month and men only four times a year. "Men aren't stylish at all," he says. "Men buy everything they need at P&C - from their suits to their shirts through to their ties. I have to offer something special if I want men to buy from my store." It starts with the window dressing: Amorph, for example, with an old motocycle as a real head-turner, or Möller & Möller in Hanover with a headline in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung that hits you in the eye or Hustler. "It has to arouse emotions, be provocative," explains shop owner Herbert Möller. "For men the window has to tell a story."

A fashion store should be a place where men can catch their breath before continuing the rat race. stulz-mode:genuss:leben in Waldshut is a new concept store for men that was created by splitting the men's and women's stores. Wartner is glad they split the stores and enriched the range of menswear with brands like Boglioli, Hackett London, Henry Cotton's and tailored garments by Dressler. "The store's furnished like a cosy English lounge," he says. "Men like having a place they can retreat to without iPad and internet." And they like talking about mundane things like grappa and fancy food, which they can also buy at Stulz. "If the atmosphere is right, it's easy to get men to try things on," he adds. "But the tipping "We have a hard time selling our brand's look in Germany but individual items do well. If the retailers had more grit, consumers might appreciate the collection more!" R95th, Susanne Bielen, Country Manager for Germany

point is the staff's expertise in merchandise and products because it instils trust."

According to Brennenstuhl, a customer who tries on an item is 80 per cent of the way to the checkout counter. "There are obviously a number of questions that have to be answered upfront: Do I need the product? Can I afford it? Is the quality right? The fit's also very important and must be just right. A customer who isn't happy with a fit will try on several trousers - unless their wives are with them, which is also when they're a lot quicker to say that they're done shopping."

Men and Brands. How much influence do famous brands have on the purchase decision? And how important are they as status symbols? "Men in their 20s are looking for a partner and pay more attention to their appearance. Men in their 40s are busy earning a living," says Baumgärtner. "They're not really interested in fashion; quality is more important. Fashion is supposed to show status, rid them of their burden and be reliable."

Moncler, Woolrich and Canada Goose are among the best-selling brands at the men's

stores run by the Swiss PKZ group. "Fashion and function are really popular with men right now," says Olivier Burger, owner of the Swiss-based PKZ group. "Men are very open to new brands, especially in casualwear that no one has ever heard of. The merchandise simply speaks for itself."

"Ideally, everything will come together," says Brennenstuhl, "the familiar brand, the quality, the story. More and more I'm seeing that men buy the story first, then the product. But in the end, the product has to be functional." The same applies to good footwear, such as Ludwig Reiter: elegant and edge stitched, made of high-quality leather and solidly manufactured. Because customers know the name, they're willing to pay 500 euros. "Men like buying traditional, classic shoes," says Wartner, who focuses on "Women go shopping four times a month, men only four times a year.

Women like to look, they compare a lot.

Men, once they're in the store, are thankful customers." Olivier Burger, owner of the Swiss-based PKZ group

handmade custom shoes from Austria with soles attached to the shoe with wooden nails in the traditional way. "Men do buy on the spot if they really like the shoes. Every second customer tries on one of the classicswith its history and quality – and 95 per cent end up buying them."

In the commercial segment the Jack Wolfskin phenomenon proves that many men think famous brands are a sure bet. "The cool and adventurous guy in the ads has brought the functional jacket to the city," he says. "Behind it all is an incredible marketing machine. People love the brand, the product is affordable – virtually sells itself and requires little to no store staff. These have to be key success factors." But fashion offers good alternatives to the purely functional jacket – at Stulz, for example, light wool down jackets by Mabrun or Henry Cotton's, or a wool jacket by Dressler that substitutes as a coat. "These are new types of clothes, meaning that they need a lot of explaining," Wartner adds. And the advice has to be given in a language that both the sales staff and the customers speak because men don't understand expressions like "slim look". "'It's a young look' is the best argument; young makes everyone feel good," he says. As with women, men's target groups are no longer classified by age.

"Older men are healthier and fitter than they used to be; they do their best to have good abs," says Olivier Burger. "When my son and I get together at the weekend it's likely that we'll be wearing the same True Religion jeans. Not too long ago, that was unthinkable." In 2008 the PKZ group integrated their originally independent casual Blue Dog stores with their PKZ stores. "The gap between age groups is narrowing," he

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This is the way modern looks should be. Closed (left) vastly increased their sales by knowing exactly what men want. Marc O’Polo (middle) offers updated classics and remains true to its credo. Combining a down to earth attitude with trendy, Paul Kehl (right) is the PKZ group's successful in-house brand.

says, "and men are happy that they don't have to go to a separate store anymore."

Learning Process. In London ad people combine Barbour jackets with Carhartt trousers, and in Milan rolled-up chinos with a nice shirt and flannel jacket are not a rare sight. The fashion message seems to have been understood here. "There are more men in Italy and England than in Germany who see fashion as one of the little pleasures of life," says Baumgärtner. "Great clothes are a real treat, but finding them takes training and time to figure out what you like. It's also our duty to the industry to talk as much "Men like having a place they can retreat to. The staff's product knowledge is also very important because it instils trust." Thomas Wartner, Managing Director of stulz-mode:genuss:leben

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as possible about our lifestyle, fits and our feel for quality. We have to make sure we're understood." This is why Marc O'Polo has introduced a journal this autumn/winter that brings fashion closer to the consumer. In its fashion magazine, R95th uses lifestyle photos printed on newsprint to talk about their style. It's helpful for retailers and end consumers because you can't sell fashion you can't show. "The chain starts with our internal presentations and ends with a sales talk in the store," explains Nadler. "Something always gets lost on the way, but that's something we all have to deal with. We're working at all interfaces, for example, with internal and onsite training courses, which are a great hit. The goal is to get the sales staff excited, and there's a lot of interest in doing just that."

What do fashion-conscious men like? "Men under 30 pay more attention to their clothes; younger people are more open to fashion,"

"Men buy the story first, then the product. But in the end, the product has to be functional." Christian Brennenstuhl, owner of Amorph

says Bielen. "The young generation get their fashion information from the internet and magazines like GQ and are clearly more style conscious," says Wartner, "I see it in their decisiveness - young men are fast buyers when a product fits." "Fewer and fewer men shop with their wives," concludes Burger.

"Men are more mature these days and know exactly what they want." So there is hope for the man on the street.

www.closed.com, www.marc-o-polo.com www.moellerundmoeller.com www.pkz.ch, www.r95th.com www.stulzmode.de

www.stetson-europe.com

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Men + Fashion

A Talk Show with Sales Herbert Möller is a fashion retailer with his heart and soul. In the early '80s, he sold designer brands like Comme des Garçons and Jean-Paul Gaultier until he made a conscious break in 1983 and opened Möller & Möller, his new store in Hanover, which he designed like an exclusive men's club. Now, he sells brands like Kiton and Alden, Etro, Loro Piana and Moncler. In an interview Möller talks about what it takes to make men happy when they are buying fashions.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Möller & Möller

Quality consciousness, craftsmanship and service are the pillars on which Herbert Möller has built his business.

M

r. Möller, what do men need to feel comfortable in a shop?

Today's men suffer from a lack of warmth and caring; the world has become too cool for them. They have problems they want treated with understanding, and they need time to reflect. They have to have somebody they can talk to in the shop.

An athletic type chats about football, while someone interested in politics talks about the day's events. Men also like to be left alone when they shop. They need their own space.

How do you get them to try anything on?

Before they try something on, we have to help them make choices; men first want to understand what's going on! Right from the start, the shoulders have to fit. We might go a size up or down, but that's it; otherwise the customer drops the whole thing. We have to make absolutely clear what alterations are necessary. None of this: May I 112 style in progress

Today's fashions appeal to the male selfimage. Still, we see many purposely unfashionable men on the streets these days, or at the airport wearing a Jack Wolfskin jacket over a suit.

adolescent. But this only reflects badly on himself. When he says he doesn't want to spend any money on fashion, I can totally agree with him. The value of clothing should be understandable: Is it reasonable to invest so much money? As a retailer this is exactly what I want to get across to the customers. If the man in question bought a high-quality suit, he would notice the difference. A Kiton suit definitely looks great for ten years. You can basically compare serving customers to hosting a talk show. Keep the fashionable aspect to a minimum, highlight the qualities. Be honest and serve with pleasure.

Many customers come in here and seem standoffish at first, muttering that they're only just looking. And it's brilliant when they leave the shop later on with a smile on their face.

A man wearing a cheap suit under a recreational jacket, which was made for the mountains, is making a silent protest, like an

www.moellerundmoeller.com

suggest taking it in a bit here in the back?

That would only indicate uncertainty. We need something to build on. Then we can add this shirt and those trousers - along with new colours or small accessories.

How important is clothing as a status symbol?

Our man in his mid-thirties wants to be solid in his career and have some extra money. He shows all this with his car or his watch. Then there's the clothing he wears to accentuate his athletic body. His selection demonstrates superiority, a subtle sexiness.

He's the trap; his quarry has to run to him.

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Hollywood on Sylt Arqueonautas | The makers of Arqueonautas intend to make a sensational splash with their brand. With guest of honour Kevin Costner, they hosted a big bash to mark the launch of their online shop. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Arqueonautas

The man and the dunes of Sylt: Kevin Costner is the new ambassador for Arqueonautas. The actor and singer is an environmentalist, which suits the brand image well. Since the late '90s, he has invested large amounts of money in technology designed to separate oil from water, for use during maritime disasters such as the 2010 oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico, where 32 of his machines were put into operation.

he Arqueonautas brand organised a glitzy and glamorous event last September. Special guest Kevin Costner came to Sylt to mark the launch of the online shop, attracting some 300 fans who flocked to see the celebrity perform with his rock/country band Modern West on the stage of the Sturmhaube bar and restaurant.

Hollywood celebrity Costner and Arqueonautas seem like a perfect match. "Kevin is a very popular and likeable public figure, who loves nature, sports and the outdoors, and goes his own way." says Kai Wilhelm, Managing Director of the Kitaro Fashion Group.

"We want to use his charisma to spread the word about Arqueonautas internationally and penetrate new markets, like Asia and North America."

In addition to acting as the brand ambassador and donating one euro for every garment sold to help protect the world maritime heritage, Costner is a partner in the venture and has contributed to the design of the collection. "I like the story behind the

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112 style in progress

brand," he says. "The team from Arqueonautas Worldwide recovers the cargo of endangered shipwrecks worldwide. And since I used to work as a fisherman myself and very much like to dive, I know what it takes when you're moving around underwater."

Diving in the Java Sea. The new online shop marks another milestone in the recent success story of Arqueonautas. The brand is already 50 to 60 per cent ahead of plan, says Wilhelm, thanks in large part to widespread publicity in newspapers and lifestyle publications like Instyle and Brigitte, as well as diverse social media activities. The maritime sportswear brand is currently available at some 700 points of sale on the market, in German-speaking countries as well as in France, Canada, the CIS and the Benelux countries. The brand image is bolstered as well by four of their own stores: in D端sseldorf, Hamburg, Berlin and Hanover, along with a partner store in Dresden, which will

be followed in mid-February by another store on Sylt. Furthermore, Wilhelm says additional Arqueonautas stores are planned at popular international holiday destinations.

Costner will maintain his ties to the brand in addition to his activities as a singer, environmentalist and, of course, actor. This year he will play in the new Superman film as the adoptive father of the popular superhero.

And he is planning to go diving with Arqueonautas Worldwide this spring in Indonesia's Java Sea, where CEO Nikolaus Count Sandizell's team has found large quantities of Ming Dynasty porcelain dating back to around 1580.

Arqueonautas. Founded in 2008, the brand is a member of the Kitaro Fashion Group in D端sseldorf. The Otto Group has a 74.5 per cent share in the company. Kai Wilhelm, who has a 25.5 per cent stake, and Klaus Jochums are Managing Directors of the company, which has 60 employees.

In addition to Arqueonautas, other fashion brands carried are Kitaro and Jette Joop. www.arqueonautas.de

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Natural Perfection Meindl A/W 2012/13

ODESSA Wonderfully warm winter coat with intricate detailing made from light Spanish Merino sheepskin that has a unique quality.

CINECITTA LIGHT

MOGAMBO LIGHT Women’s and men's blazer from chamois-tanned buckskin, hand-dyed using only natural wood dyes. The rough hand-knit look of the sleeves, from Merino wool, underscores the high-quality craftsmanship.

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ARIZONA A real man's coat. Featuring a tough, yet light and smooth, look. Handcrafted from the finest Spanish Merino lambskin.

Bread & Butter Berlin L.O.C.K. Stand L.20.7, 18-20 January 2012 Munich Fashion WoMen MTC Messe 18-21 February 2012 www.meindl-fashions.de

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Timeless Craftsmanship Handstich | The German brand Handstich focusses on tradition, craftsmanship and enduring fashion and is complementing its line of shoes this autumn with a new series of jackets. Text: Sonja Ragaller. Photos: Handstich

Top quality and a touch of casualness – a philosophy that's also reflected in the new collection of jackets.

"Handstich is about craftsmanship – enduring and timeless. Not trend-oriented. We want to develop products that people will also like in the future." André Berger

chloss Seefeld on Pilsensee in Bavaria's Five-Lake Region looks even more magical and magnificent on a clear winter's day. It also exudes timelessness and tradition, making it the perfect choice for the headquarters of the new shoe label Handstich. Tradition and painstaking craftsmanship are the guiding principles of founder and Managing Director André Berger, who has set out to make an old dream come true with Handstich: a high-quality shoe collection for discerning customers, like the ones he meets in the fashion industry every day, and like himself.

He doesn't have to purchase the necessary expertise, though. With his company United Fashion Service he has provided the market with creative services for years, working with his team of 25 specialists to develop collection packages and marketing concepts for the textile industry. Nestled in a creative setting behind the old castle walls, the vision for Handstich matured slowly like a good wine. "Our own high standards have inspired us to look for the coolest shoes and the coolest jackets," he says. "The perfect shoe should have the highest degree of craftsmanship – enduring and timeless."

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Handcrafted Stuff. These are qualities that Berger has also put in his third collection:

"Handstich – Handcrafted Stuff." This line includes 17 models for men and five for women, ranging from classic Budapest-style shoes to casual boyfriend styles, and from desert footwear to lambskin boots. Retail prices range from 269 euros and up. Most of the shoes are edge-stitched, making them stronger, more comfortable and durable.

Everything is 100 per cent handmade, not in the castle, but in small factories scattered around the world. "These are high-quality factories that produce perhaps 120 pairs of shoes a day. We wanted to create an intelligent product with decent value for money.

This couldn't be done here in Germany," says Berger, who adds that this is the only way that he can give customers a little more when it comes to craftsmanship, quality, finishing and polishing.

A Modern Touch. Craftsmanship gets a

"We're not out to provide a complete outfit.

But this product group fits in perfectly. Both are designed for people who are stylish and good at combining different articles," says Berger. The focus is the same: high-quality classics that aren't humdrum, but are timeless. The Hinterhofagentur in Munich will be in charge of marketing the line of jackets, which come in a total of 18 models for men and women, and retail for approx. 499 euros and up. Down jackets are the most commercial products in this line. More extravagant models combine flannel with leather and feature genuine horn buttons. The top-ofthe-line consists of waxed lambskin coats that are in the four-digit price range. The jackets aren't branded in a flashy way. The product should speak for itself and convey quality, craftsmanship and enduring charm – a traditional product with a modern touch, and a bit of Schloss Seefeld's splendour.

modern touch here – also when it comes to manufacturing techniques. At Handstich modern doesn't mean the most pointed toe and the most unusual materials, but rather top-notch, comfortable shoes that can be worn for business or leisure and will still be fashionable tomorrow – like a Barbour jacket. So it doesn't come as much of a surprise that Handstich will launch its own line of jackets in autumn/winter 2012/13.

Handstich was founded by André Berger, the owner of United Fashion Service.

The brand features handmade shoes for women and men. For autumn/winter 2012/13 Handstich is launching a collection of jackets that will be marketed by Munich's Hinterhofagentur. www.handstich.de

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They're special, different and perfect in addressing men's needs.

In cities and towns throughout North America, ownermanaged shops are revitalizing the retail sector. At last!

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The Return of Specialty Shops in the USA

The Small Revolution In North America men's fashion retailing is changing. The new owner-run stores are in tune with the current trend toward Americana and nostalgia. But gold-leaf lettering on the display windows and purposely scuffed-up shelves are only the surface. Underneath this lies a new relationship to the customer – one that could be the key to success in the 21st century. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Stores

etail stores are an anachronism. This dogma has been the buzz in Europe for years as we gaze toward America, where huge multi-label shopping emporiums and impressive flagship stores dominate the market, and when it comes to menswear, the product is overshadowed by the brand. Ultimately, this has to do with things that the world doesn't need. In the industrialised nations on both sides of the Atlantic, no one goes barefoot, and almost everyone's closet is filled with enough warm gear to go an entire year without using a washing machine.

Some kind of magnet is needed to get the customers into fashion stores. And on the continent that gave us Elvis, Barbie and Lady Gaga, manufacturers and retailers know how to fuel consumer desires. It's always bigger, faster, further – even if an entire industry overshoots its target, has to swiftly exit the crisis and start all over again.

But something seems to have changed, almost imperceptibly.

Visits to Bergdorf Goodman and Ralph Lauren in New York or Tom Ford in Los Angeles are suddenly no longer at the top of the shopping lists of style-conscious men.

Instead, they rave about small, owner-run boutiques in Seattle, Boston and Madison – that's right – Madison, Wisconsin, in the heart of America's dairyland. That's where a store called Context opened in 2005. "Right from the start, we focused on denim made

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on old machines and produced with old manufacturing techniques," says owner Ryan Huber. "We sell some of the best denims in the world."

He appeals to three archetypes with his collection: the classic gentlemen, the rugged outdoor fan and the creative spirit. Of course, any department store chain marketing director can name clearly defined target groups. But at Context the relationship to the customer goes much further: "Anyone who visits the store receives a custom-made belt. We use top-grade leather, and we make sure that it fits perfectly." Yep, it certainly looks like the retail store is back.

close attention these stores pay to the quality of their products, and their owners have an encyclopaedic knowledge they are only too willing to share – whether it has to do with the weave of a pair of jeans or how a real gentleman wears his shirt.

"As customers we were always looking for service, quality and personality," says Otto Zoell. With this in mind, he opened Maas & Stacks together with Stephen Chen in San Francisco – and they focused on their own tastes and preferences to create the store's unique character. They also had an ulterior motive: "Before we opened our own store, we didn't have a local favourite boutique where we could go shopping."

A Comeback with a Special Twist. The

new North American stores combine oldfashioned spirit with the contemporary pleasure of discovering something special. These shops sell traditional brands like Barbour, Woolrich, Levi's and Canada Goose along with newcomers like Wings+Horns, The Hill-Side and Band of Outsiders. Men find not only rare jeans, belts and shoes, but also magazines, vinyl LPs, whimsical antiques, shaving kits and pocket knives.

Running a business like this that isn't limited to fashion is by no means a pioneering invention. The key difference is in the details: The owners see things that are overlooked elsewhere or often take a backseat to maximising sales. This is reflected in the

Attention to Detail Boosts the Business.

Furthermore, the new stores are treasure troves of paraphernalia. The sheer joy of discovery motivates not only the stores' customers, but also makes the owners into like-minded collectors. At Context eyecatching products include a water bowl for dogs made of leather (Unionmade), astronaut ice cream (Hickoree's Hard Goods) and a medicine ball reminiscent of the boxing training equipment used by the owner's grandfather.

This creative spirit extends to the naming of the various departments. At both Blackbird Ballard in Seattle and Unionmade in San Francisco, the cosmetics products have been style in progress 112

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Wings+Horns, Canada Light summer shorts, heavy outdoor jackets, cool sneakers: These products are the brainchild of Craig Atkinson.

Before he founded Wings+Horns in Vancouver, he worked for years in Japan.

Nonetheless, the style of Wings+Horns is often described as Canadiana.

What's at the core of Wings+Horns?

This may sound like a cliché, but quality, fit, fabric and design are at the core of our work. I doubt that one can live without the other. And since we do our own sewing here in Vancouver, we can create a highquality product. We also work very closely with spinning and weaving mills to make our own fabric.

What type of store orders something like this?

It's our impression that our sales partners are very into our brand culture. They understand quality on many levels, and they want to offer our customers the best possible experience.

How do you see classic flagship stores and large multi-label stores in comparison to boutiques like Blackbird, Haven and Context?

I think that stores like Blackbird, Haven and Context will always have a place on the market because they're much more deeply anchored in the culture than flagship stores or large multi-label stores could ever be.

How do Japanese and North American fashion cultures differ – and where do they converge?

I would break this down even further into Tokyo versus New York. Outside of Tokyo, fashion culture declines exponentially, and the same can be said of North America. As I see it, the greatest difference is that there are fewer rules in Tokyo. New York is actually somewhat more conservative when it comes to menswear. Concerning the similarities, the Japanese are still very attracted to American culture and fashion – and as strange as this may sound, I believe that the Americans are beginning to appreciate American fashion culture thanks to the influence of the Japanese.

Playthings like the old slingshot found at Hickoree's Hard Goods are there to be bought, not just talked about.

The atmosphere at Stag is permeated with nostalgia, Americana and local colour.

Custom tailoring plays a big role at Sid Mashburn's.

dubbed the "apothecary." Unionmade store owner Todd Barket explains why: "Personal care or body care seemed somewhat feminine for what we do. Apothecary, on the other hand, is classically masculine with a useful twist."

Unionmade has also shown that the concept can be replicated to create a chain: There are now three stores plus an online shop.

However, all the stores have different appearances. "They vary according to the city," he says. "The common thread here is the honest, warm materials. The furnishings allow the product to play the hero."

try to give our customers the feeling that they are better off when they leave the store than when they came in – even when we just spend a few minutes talking with them over a Coke and listening to a record," says Sid Mashburn.

In the Sid Mashburn store in Atlanta, roughly half of the inventory is his own line, while the other half consists of other brands.

Custom tailoring plays a big role for him.

"We not only sew what people purchase in the store; we also help them make the best of what they've already invested in. Part of our role is to help men navigate the maze of uncertainties surrounding contemporary clothing standards."

Such personal views of service can be found across the entire country. At Confederacy in Los Angeles, for example, old telephone booths serve as dressing rooms – and the telephones inside connect the customers directly to the staff. At Stag in Austin the contact is direct. Many customers wouldn't hesitate to move directly into this space, which has a homey Americana atmosphere.

This may have something to do with a refrigerator that is constantly filled with beer

Service Is Everything. Speaking of heroes,

Wings+Horns works closely with spinning and weaving mills to get the right quality for their fabric.

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icons of style inspire shoppers in nearly every store. Steve McQueen, Cary Grant and James Dean set the tone – along with the heroes of the working world. Traditional workwear fabric is everywhere, even where you wouldn't normally expect it – like in a tie, for instance. The attitude behind this stems from a strong work ethic: The store owners are so devoted to their job that they're delighted to provide service, regardless of whether they make a sale. "We really

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The Hill-Side, USA Ties made of workwear fabrics are currently their bestsellers: The brothers Emil and Sandy Corsillo established The Hill-Side in June 2009 in conjunction with the launch of their multi-label online shop Hickoree's Hard Goods.

What's at the core of the Hill-Side collection?

Emil Corsillo: We have five different singlecoloured fabrics that we use every season.

The first collection consisted of chambray, denim and striped single-coloured twill. All of these fabrics were in selvedge quality and directly borrowed from workwear clothing fabrics. In the meantime, we're less dogmatic when it comes to work clothing; there are now also floral prints and so on. But these five chambrays still come up again every season; they're the link to the collection's roots.

You're practically in love with your fabrics.

Sandy Corsillo: The various styles are ultimately only a framework in which we present our fabrics.

E.C.: Touching these captivating fabrics, seeing them up close – even smelling them – is something special. Access to special fabrics is our competitive edge. Many of the magnificent fabrics we use come from special sources that others either have no access to or they can't work with these weaving mills under the conditions that we offer.

The look and feel has a nostalgic element to it – Americana, traditional workwear clothing and so on. Where can this lead?

E.C.: From a visual perspective there's currently a trend toward cultural heritage, nostalgia, Americana and workwear. But we're seeing extremely positive characteristics here that aren't at all connected to a single trend. And when the backlash to the workwear aesthetic comes, when Americana no longer visually appeals to people, then the underlying level will remain. There it's simply important to know where things come from and how they were manufactured. That is, in any case, our hope.

The HillSide is known for its ties made of workwear fabric.

112 style in progress

At Unionmade the department for men's cosmetic products has been dubbed the "apothecary."

The owners of Maas & Stacks couldn't find a local boutique to their taste, so they started their own.

from a local brewery. Whiskey is available as well. "It's no surprise that many men don't like to go shopping for clothes – or go shopping at all," says Steve Shuck, one of the five owners of Stag. "At our store they feel comfortable and we give them a sense of self-confidence in what they wear."

siderations, but would rather follow their instincts, ultimately gives them a decisive advantage over the multi-label giants and flagship stores. Today's men not only want to look good, they also enjoy being fashion nerds – and talking about it at the counter of their favourite store.

Knowledge Is What Ultimately Counts.

This self-confidence doesn't come by chance. Knowledge once only available to industry insiders can now be found on the internet with just a few clicks of a mouse.

"When you have access to information, you want more of it," says Emil Corsillo, who runs Hickoree's Hard Goods with his brother Sandy. Originally they only had an online shop, but now also have a store in Brooklyn. "The next step is for you to feel attracted to things that have a good, authentic and deep story."

These days customers ask: Where does the fabric come from? How was it woven?

Which direction does the fabric run? What was used to dye it? How commonplace or rare is it? Who sewed the jeans and where?

The fact that the store owners are not working purely according to marketing con-

THE BEST MEN'S RETAIL STORES IN NORTH AMERICA Blackbird Ballard, Seattle www.blackbirdballard.com Confederacy, Los Angeles www.shopconfederacy.com Context, Madison www.contextclothing.com Haven, Edmonton (Canada) www.havenshop.ca Hickoree’s Hard Goods, New York www.hickorees.com Maas & Stacks, San Francisco www.maasandstacks.com Sid Mashburn, Atlanta www.sidmashburn.com Stag, Austin www.stagaustin.com Unionmade, San Francisco www.unionmadegoods.com

094 CONCEPT

The first Witty Knitters store outside Germany opened in December 2011 in Kitzb端hel.

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CONCEPT 095

The Visionaries Witty Knitters | It started out with a small collection of cashmere knitwear and two golden rabbit mascots. Just half a year later, Witty Knitter has developed into a total look collection and is offering speciality retailers an attractive instant range with extremely short delivery times. Text: Nicolette Scharpenberg. Photos: Witty Knitters

he Swiss label Witty Knitters, managed

by Alexandra von Schöning and Manuel Rivera, is celebrating its début in speciality retailers at the beginning of 2012.

The brand was founded in April 2011. At almost the same time, the first two Witty Knitters stores opened in Keitum and Westerland on the North German island of Sylt. In September these were followed by the brand's first flagship store in Hamburg's Hafencity district, and in December 2011 the first store in Austria celebrated its premiere. The Witty Knitters are cranking up the speed. "We've set out sights on the whole of Europe," says Sales and Marketing Director Matthias Lemcke. The partners aim to position the brand with its own stores – both nationally and internationally. "Timmendorf is in the pipeline for March 2012 and Breuninger already has shop in shops in its branches." The Munich-based Adventure agency with showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich is in charge of distribution. Up to 2012 the company says it plans to open 10 to 15 more stores, including locations such as Bergen on Sea in the Netherlands and Chourchevel in France, as well as in St. Moritz and Geneva in Switzerland and Knokke in Belgium.

T

A Resort Expects More. Right from the outset, the company focussed on holiday resorts. "Customers who are on holiday are more emotionally motivated to make pur-

A resort expects more and that's why Witty Knitters is going for a total look from now on.

chases than they are in their everyday life.

We gear our collection towards this," explains Lemcke. What started with a sporty and elegant cashmere range was expanded to form a complete range. "We saw that we can be successful with pure cashmere pullovers, but not in the sales areas and locations where we are planning to position our brand," he says. Today, Witty Knitters offers a total look of summer dresses, blouses, handbags, leather jackets, sneakers, boots, lambskin and down vests, cosy pullovers, parkas, scarves and winter boots, depending on the location of the resort.

Internationalisation. To achieve international success, it was only logical to move the design team and sourcing department. "A Design and Development Center will open in London," says Lemcke. Various designers already work there in the fields of knitwear, outerwear or leather under Kate Sheryn's management. Peter Ripper supervises Sourcing and Development from Hong Kong.

"He's a man with long-standing sourcing experience. With his expertise and his contacts, we've been able to make use of opportunities that we couldn't have anticipated in our wildest dreams," he says.

"Today, we're capable of offering speciality retailers an instant range with a delivery time of approx. two weeks. Thanks to our own stores, which have the collection priority and always have to offer the total range, we can reserve fabrics at an early stage. This shortens the delivery times, including those for retailers." Four collections are planned for this year. Autumn/winter will begin already in early June; spring/summer will begin in December. "Because we need this so early in our resorts, the retailer has the option to switch between the collections." In addition to their own stores, there will also be partner store concepts that enable third parties to use the firm's CI and the interiors, but also give them the freedom to decide for themselves what they want to buy. And it's a fertile foundation: "We only work with cooperation agreements."

Witty Knitters was founded in 2011 in Münchenstein, Switzerland. Manuel Rivera and Alexandra von Schöning are the label's owners. After first offering a line of cashmere pullovers, they went to a full range of goods in mid-2011. They moved their design office to London and sourcing and development to Hong Kong. An additional 10 to 15 stores are planned for resort destinations up to 2014. www.wittyknitters.com

style in progress 112

096 CONCEPT

Fashion Engineering G-Lab | Does the world really need a new jacket? "Yes, it does," says Björn Gericke, "if it's different!" And he proves it with G-Lab. Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Brand

G-Lab combines technology and fashion to make a tough and uncompromising product.

t seems that Björn Gericke has long been used to the curious questions about his surname. And yes, he is the son of motorcycle-crazy legend Hein Gericke. Although Björn wanted to take another path and successfully established himself as an investment banker in London at the end of the '90s, he somehow got bitten by his father's bug. So, after years of studying and travelling the world, he returned to Düsseldorf in 2003

I

"G-Lab isn't supposed to be loud. It's not a jacket for show-offs."

to set up his freelance design agency G-Lab. Right from the start, the name matched the company's philosophy: a lab that allowed people to get off the beaten path and try out new things. He started out as a partner for brands such as Harley Davidson or Scorpion. Soon he soon became interested in doing his own thing. "But definitely no motorcycle clothing!" he says and jokingly goes on to explain: "Old men on big bikes are 112 style in progress

not a target group really interested in design and fashion."

"Inside" Technology. But it's precisely this target group that he hopes to address with G-Lab. "In terms of functional requirements, there is no product more complex than the motorcycle jacket," says Gericke in summing up the inspiration and quality of the purposely small collection. It's his mission to translate these standards of touch, look and function into a contemporary, urban jacket.

He calls it Fashion Engineering.

He gave himself and his team two years to develop an uncompromising and tough product. In winter 2010 G-Lab was launched for the first time at Premium in Berlin, offering six jackets in one fabric for men only. Since 2011 there has been a female counterpart in a softer, but equally functional fabric. To ensure a clean look, technology and function are mostly integrated inside the jackets. The outside hints at what the slim-fit jackets, made of a specially de-

In 2003 Björn Gericke, son of motorcycle legend Hein Gericke, established his own freelance design agency G-Lab in Düsseldorf.

veloped three-layer laminate, are actually capable of - robust seams, even more robust Japanese zips by YKK, characteristic zip garage. Gericke says: "G-Lab isn't supposed to be loud. It's not a jacket for show-offs."

The brand has had a successful market entry.

Support from producers acquired through old connections enables steady growth and internationalisation (Canada, USA, Japan) without being dependent on the banks.

Gericke doesn't want to rush things. "G-Lab isn't a product for making a fast buck. We want to establish the collection long term at high-quality speciality retailers. And I think we're well on the way to doing so."

Located in Düsseldorf, G-Lab was founded by Björn Gericke and is one of the leading design agencies for fashionable performance wear. The G-Lab jacket collection was launched in January 2010 at Premium Berlin. The Unifa subsidiary Blue Brain is in charge of sales in Germany, in Munich the Tradingpool agency, in Austria Unifa Austria and in Switzerland the Cagol Fashion Company. www.g-lab.com

CONCEPT 097

"We Don't Need to Hide from Anybody!"

Luis Trenker | With a new design team, new company headquarters and internal reshuffling, the alpine fashion and lifestyle label is concentrating on its South Tyrolean roots. Luis Trenker owner Michi Klemera talks about irony, the brand's new seriousness and finding our way back to the mountains. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photos: Brand

Modern sportswear elements meet alpine downto-earthness: A new design team is in charge of the Luis Trenker autumn/winter collection 2012.

e've taken down our tent," says Luis Trenker founder Michi Klemera in describing one of the changes that signalizes a new, more serious era for the fashion company.

With the move to the new company headquarters located in one of South Tyrol's most prestigious buildings, it's going for a more adult and goal-oriented image. "The new location makes us more self-confident. We want to show people that we're one serious fish in the industry's shark pool and don't need to hide from anybody," he says.

"W

Back to Our Roots. With its cheeky and

carefree philosophy, Luis Trenker was particularly successful in 2005 and 2006. "We wanted to conquer the world, tear everything down and perhaps we looked a little too far past our horizons." Could the alpine concept be transferred from the mountains to the cities? A bold plan that initially took time, money and energy. Klemera: "We've learned our lesson and today know more

than ever that the Luis Trenker brand is kept alive by the motivation and passion of our regular customers." With this in mind, focussing on its own strengths are what make out the autumn/winter collection 2012.

Luis Trenker Sportswear. Luisa de Santi and Gionata Madagodi are both responsible for the change of direction. The South Tyrolean label is also profiting from experience acquired in the sportswear scene by the experienced design team with Napapijri, Marina Yachting and Fay. "This coming winter season, we're taking a big step towards high-quality sportswear. Based on the solid foundation of our 10-year history, we're creating alpine casualwear defined by our values that is still bang up-to-date," says the owner. Despite efforts to be more serious, the businessman also sees irony and joie de vivre as inseparable from the brand. Intensive briefings were necessary to familiarise the new design team with the strategy of the South Tyrolean label. The result is an au-

tumn/winter collection that reinterprets the elements of modern sportswear and maintains respect for the alpine clothing culture Italian joie de vivre in the collection and a straightforward, clear-cut company goal.

"It's our goal to continue to hold our own on the market and be a key market player.

And we also want to fulfil the expectations of those who have believed in the Luis Trenker brand for many years."

Luis Trenker. Year of founding: 2001.

Owner/ Managing Director: Michi Klemera.

New company headquarters since January 2012: Waltraud Gebert-Deeg Straße 4, 9100 Bozen/Italy, T 0039.0471.633022 Showroom: Gusswerk, Söllheimerstrasse 16, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, Manager: Michaela Schaubschläger.

Distribution via approx. 300 shops in Italy, Austria, Germany, Switzerland and Great Britain, as well as in its own online shop. www.luistrenkerstore.com. www.luistrenker.com

style in progress 112

Nature Calls Make Yourself at Home

The new home, tradition and nature trend hasn't reached the countryside yet. The only people to romanticise handcraft are the media. But there's a sense of nostalgia in the air that may just shape the future. Text: Sonja Ragaller. Photos: Brands

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CONCEPT 099

Saturday in November in a typical Lower Bavarian town: the centre is deserted. Empty shops are for rent.

But there is a little traffic jam at the roundabout in the ugly business park just outside of this town of 15,000. The cars are heading for Lidl, Kik, Obi and Co. It's gloomy and not only because of the mist that covers everything in grey; the mountains are never visible anyway except when there's fĂśhn blowing. New-found love for home, nature and tradition that is not restricted to articles and spreads in magazines like Landlust? Not found here. It's not like the local retailers are buzzing about the new run on their region and their stores or about masses of tourists and city-dwellers that have discovered their love for the countryside.

A

Change of Scenery. On the same Saturday in the Bavarian Oberland, it's stop and go traffic in the direction of Tegernsee. Country-loving Munich residents spend hours on congested country roads crawling towards alpine chalets and hill-top restaurants. The tedious trip doesn't seem too bad when you think of the reward waiting for them: idyllic hiking and walking trails, rustic pubs and nature pure, which are a welcome change to hectic city life. Hiking in particular is experiencing a revival among the young generation. Outdoor equipment stores have

benefited for some time from city-dwellers' new-found love for nature and hiking. But is this trend positive for the town's population and retail structure, too? Can life and retail flourish so far away from the bustling city?

velopment of concepts with an emphasis on regional specifics and address topics such as nature, ecology and tradition," says Dr Gerd Landsberg of Deutscher Städte- und Gemeindebund (Association of German Cities and Towns).

The Figures Say They Won't. In 1994

almost 19 per cent of the German population lived in the country; in 2010 it was only 14 per cent. "The percentage change may be small but it doesn't mean that people have stopped fleeing the countryside.

The population in rural areas is constantly decreasing while the population in the cities keeps increasing," says Susanne Becker of Germany's Federal Statistical Office. Most well-educated young people are still drawn to the cities. This demographic change is also draining the population in many rural communities. Many towns and villages - not only in East Germany - are complaining about the lack of doctors' surgeries, village schools, banks, restaurants and pubs, post offices and even churches. And it's questionable whether the new attitude coined Neo Nature in 2008 by the Zukunftsinstitut in Kelkheim will save towns that are not near recreational or holiday destinations. "The cities and municipalities have a vested interest in combatting (BE) the depopulation of town centres. We work regularly with retailers and the local community on the de-

That's the Theory. Reality is different in many places as Barbara Gruber from Gewandhaus Gruber in Erding, 35 kilometres outside of Munich, knows all too well. She's familiar with the phenomenon of countrylife enthusiasm, though. She has seen sales in lederhosen and dirndls increase so much that she can actually speak of a real tracht boom. "At first the higher sales were linked to specific events like folk festivals. In the meantime, the authentic, the traditional, have since crept into everyday life. We sell more janker, cardigans and tracht blouses to go with jeans and chinos now." Gruber also mentions that she senses a longing for stable values among her customers. The only thing she can't confirm is that retailers in rural areas are the hardest hit by shifting values: "In the '70s and '80s it was very fashionable to go to Munich to shop. A lot of people still do it today but it's not a rising trend."

Gruber's observation probably has more to do with her 5,000 square-metre store where she sells fashion ranging from Esprit and Boss to Gerry Weber and can offer custo-

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100 CONCEPT

"Products produced in Austria are once again high in course, if the design and price tally. Consumers are more sensitive and buy more intelligently." Anja Grabherr-Petter, Phil Petter

mers everything they need. The family business is also trying to distinguish itself from the mass with good service and an individual mix of brands.

In Freising a few kilometres down the road, things are different. Gruber recently opened a store there and is dealing with the usual problems: with greenfield developments, outdated structures and the city centre's lack of appeal. There are interesting shops but they are few and far between. According to BTE (Association for Tourism Management and Regional Development), individual retailers are still going out of business and mergers are still on the rise. Small fashion shops with gross sales under five million euros are hit the hardest. In 2000 there were still 34,823 active businesses, in 2009 the figure had dropped to 23,771. But a slow counter-trend seems to be in the making.

"The retailers that are still out in the country will stay there because they have adapted to the micromarket and the local demand," says Michael Prues from Agentur Raab & Prues in Munich. "There are interesting new stores out there that are breaking the mould.

But it's not like new stores are popping up all over the place."

Markus Kuttenreich has a thing or two to say about that too. He runs the 120 square-

"Alpine village spa concepts seem to be on the rise. In a way, the city-dweller's love for the countryside is virtual and hasn't affected the retail landscape yet."

Till Reiter, Ludwig Reiter

"It's striking that there are more high-quality shops in southern Germany and Austria than in the north of the country where the rural population is more price conscious."

Florian Ranft, Komet&Helden

metre men's store Kuttenreich in Ingolstadt, which carries brands such as Boss Black, Barbour, Polo Ralph Lauren and Better Rich. Big shopping centres and outlets have reduced the amount of shopping done in the city centre considerably. "A lot of people do their shopping elsewhere because there's not a lot to choose from here anymore. The magnets are missing," says Kuttenreich.

Over the years his range has become more high quality and specialized because as he says, "people can buy the other stuff wherever they want."

ternet and mail-order retailers specialising in textiles and clothing recorded an increase in sales of 4.6 per cent in the first six months of 2011 and are projected to become even bigger competition for brick-and-mortar fashion retailers. "We've always had a lot of customers from rural areas and the growth rates are still very positive," says Stefan Puriss, CEO of frontlineshop. "The stores in suburban and rural areas are slowly disappearing, which automatically increases the demand for mail-order products. We feel it immediately."

Global Competition. And that's not only

The Exception Confirms the Rule. The recreational destinations around the Chiemsee, in particular the town of Prien with 10,000 inhabitants, has an unrivalled density of brands. In April the male equivalent of the womenswear store Scala opened a 70 square-metre store with high-quality brands such as Jil Sander, Dries van Noten, Marc

by Marc Jacobs, Frauenschuh, Acne and Golden Goose. "We're clearly feeling the new joy of country life and the mountains.

A lot of city-dwellers have bought a second home here," says owner Georg Eder. "The Chiemsee is very attractive - especially when you compare the prices to Munich. Our customers also like the peaceful shopping en-

at the outlets in Ingolstadt and Munich but also on and from the World Wide Web. Mytheresa, Jades24, MyClassico and others have become direct competitors and are all reporting growing sales figures in rural areas.

"Nowadays you can get everything on the web, even very high-quality clothes. This is, of course, a problem for exclusivity," says Michael Prues. "The brick-and-mortar retailers have to try to whet consumers' appetite for face-to-face shopping and good advice. Let's face it, it will always be hard to buy a Brioni suit on the web." Brioni is probably the exception. However, according to Germany's Federal Statistical Office, in-

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102 CONCEPT

Love of home and countryside - that's what city dwellers dream of nowadays. But retailers in the country haven't yet profited from it.

vironment and the contact with the shop owners." Norbert Reipert's shop Lin & Co, which carries his and his wife's cashmere label Villa Gaia, is doing well. 70 per cent of the range consists of Villa Gaia, the other 30 per cent of Drykorn, shoes and accessories.

The shop sells 3,000 items a year, not only to tourists but also to the locals. "I think the shift in values is happening faster in rural areas because people are closer to nature," says Reipert. "The ecological and social aspects of manufacturing are part of the country-life theme. End consumers will buy sustainable merchandise made in Europe so long as the price, design and function are in line with competing products."

Consumerism Combined with Good Taste. That's the future, and not only in

the countryside. It's also the motto adopted

by Till Reiter, owner of the brand Ludwig Reiter, which stands for high-quality, edge-

stitched shoes made on Vienna's doorstep, which is where Reiter moved with his company. This is not what you'd call a deliberate move away from the city, but Reiter enjoys the typical village layout of farm, chapel, forest and agriculture.

He's just like the other creative people who prefer the song of birds to the sound of traffic.

The trade magazine Computer Woche reported at length about the new joy of country life that creative IT types are experiencing as counter-trend to virtualisation. "But it's still a minority of people who want to buy milk from the farmer and bread from the baker and like working in the garden," he says. He doesn't feel much of the romanticised nature and honest handcraft in his company. "It's hard to find people. No one wants to learn a craft. We have to train people ourselves."

Anja Grabherr-Petter of the knitwear label Phil Petter in Vorarlberg tells a similar story: "There's a long tradition of knitting here but

we're unfortunately the only ones left. As a result, the schools have disappeared and the trade has been lost." End consumers, however, are starting to appreciate honest handcraft again. "People are more discerning, they buy more intelligently. And Made in Austria is a good sales argument."

The Joy of Country Life Has Many Facets. It's a quiet revolution that encom-

passes all areas of life. The biggest winner is currently tourism, with rustic alpine villages in Austria and South Tirol flourishing. "All these alpine spa concepts seem to be doing very well. In a way, the city-dweller's love for the countryside is virtual," says Till Reiter.

Florian Ranft totally agrees: "Today's countrylife theme relates more to home and leisure than shopping." There's no denying the long-term trend though. It will shape purchase behaviour, retail and the future - in cities as well as in the countryside.

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CONCEPT 105

Tu Felix Austria While market turmoil has prompted businesses in other sectors to put their investments on hold, Austria's upscale fashion retailers are bucking the trend. Leading names such as Frauenschuh and Eder in Kitzbühel, Knilli in Graz and Wunderl in Sollenau remain undaunted by all this talk of a crisis – and have decided the time has come for bold initiatives. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Eder, Frauenschuh, Knilli, Wunderl

aspar Frauenschuh has taken all the time in the world to enlarge his store.

After all, it's been years since he paid much heed to the here-today-gone-tomorrow nature of the fashion market. It seemed like the entire industry came to the store's grand reopening in the autumn of 2011.

Every tiny little detail was showered with praise, and some visitors couldn't help but

K

feel sorry for the Frauenschuh family of entrepreneurs as the rich and beautiful of Kitzbühel carelessly placed their champagne glasses on the sales counter, risking unsightly stains on carefully chosen leather.

Anyone who's seen Frauenschuh during an ordering process knows that this man leaves absolutely nothing to chance. So it didn't come as much of a surprise when word got

around that evening that Frauenschuh had spent three years making this new store a reality. "Strictly speaking, it took more than three years," says the father of four, "because the project changed again at the last minute, forcing us to re-plan a lot of things. The three years were put to good use, though.

In addition to allowing us to work out all the details, it gave us time to accumulate

Franz and Andrea Wunderl, owners of Austria's most admired shoe store, get it right. To the question: "Where the hell is Sollenau?" there can be only one answer: "That's where Wunderl is."

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106 CONCEPT

Kitzbühel style, or its most modern version, shows up in Helmut Eder's third and newest shop in Kitzbühel.

the capital necessary for remodelling."

Together with his wife and a team of architects from Kitzbühel, they fine-tuned the project without any time pressure. "The most important thing for me was to be able to create the right climate in the store at last.

It had always been very frustrating that it was never perfect. Thanks to cooling and heating ceilings, and re-circulated air, we now have a pleasant indoor environment."

Of course the choice of materials played a big role: Old oak, leather details – all of this gives the store warmth. A state-of-the-art LED lighting system contributes to the presentation of the merchandise. "But it was also important for me that everything could be easily changed, because two years from now I'll want to have it entirely different anyway."

Frauenschuh is using the expanded area for his curated selection of brands, which have more to offer than just the glamour of a big name. In addition, the store presents a highprofile platform for the continuously growing collection under his own name. This line of fashion, which is already supplied to roughly one hundred individual retailers worldwide, can no longer be called a private label. Due to his own production structures, Frauenschuh can aim for higher objectives from season to season. And what comes na112 style in progress

turally for this entrepreneur – maintaining stringent quality standards and manufacturing in Austria – is highly appreciated by the brand's customers.

Where Competition Is Good for Business: Eder in Kitzbühel. Every agent or re-

presentative who's ever found himself caught in the crossfire between Kitzbühel retailers knows that this lucrative patch near the Hahnenkamm is hotly disputed. In trying to keep up with the competition, Kitzbühel's retail leaders spur each other on in a spirit of healthy rivalry. You really have to wonder if it was a coincidence that Helmut Eder also began to remodel his store in the summer of 2011 – and reopened with a big event. "Yes, it's a total coincidence," he says. "Of course Kitzbühel is a hot area, but particularly at our level everybody does their own thing and goes their own way." The renovation work on the Eders' store was already planned in 2010, "but we had just done some remodelling at home and simply didn't feel like dealing with another building site."

It's the sportswear-oriented Eder store that received a makeover on 145 square metres of sales area. The portfolio, with brands like Etoile, HTC, 7 for All Mankind, Current Elliot, Woolrich, Closed, Parajumpers and Jagger & Evans, serves as an ideal comple-

ment to the womenswear and menswear stores that carry all the designer brands that a fashion heart could desire, from A for Alexander Wang to Z for Zanone.

Oak, black steel and leather play key roles in the furnishings concept. These elements are combined to create an "authentic, typical Kitzbühel look," according to Eder. It's important to note here that these stores don't fit the usual Austrian clichés. Indeed, the days are long gone when you could find quaint rustic interiors behind the gabled roofs and traditional alpine wooden façades of this posh little resort. Although the town only boasts a population of about 8,000, Austria's most exclusive interior designers are flocking to this hot spot of snow society. Now, even rich Russians, who have discovered Kitzbühel along with their European counterparts, probably laugh at all the flashy and tacky accessories they once found so appealing.

Both Eder and Frauenschuh know how to delight this globetrotting, informed clientele with the kind of service that allows them to compete with single-brand stores like Sportalm, Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Luis Trenker.

It's a refreshing change from the service wastelands that await Kitzbühel's weekend inhabitants when they return to where they earn the money they so love to spend in this alpine paradise. Such a sensual shopping ex-

KATHARINA VON GARZULY-HOHENLOHE UND WELLO VON WALLSEE

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108 CONCEPT

It took him three years of planning to get the details just right: Kaspar Frauenschuh, a respected retailer and visionary for his own brand.

perience is without doubt one of the attractions of this winter sports playground.

Somewhere in the Middle of Nowhere: Wunderl. Andrea and Franz Wunderl are

way off the beaten track – a privilege that they simply didn't appreciate at first. Nobody goes for a stroll on the Wiener Neustädter Strasse in the town of Sollenau in Lower Austria, unless they have a very good 112 style in progress

reason – and there aren't many, with the exception of the Wunderl shoe store. A lot has been written about this little wonder in the town of 4,700 inhabitants south of Vienna.

Franz Wunderl has had to tell the story "at least a thousand times" of how Austria's probably most upscale shoe store is able to hold its own here. IWunderl is what's known in the US as a "destination store," the kind of establishment that attracts discerning shoe

lovers far and wide, even if it takes hours of driving to get there. That's how the Wunderls are able to sell products by Gianvito Rossi, Santoni, Prada, Tod's and many other luxury brands. In 1856 Franz Wunderl, the patriarch, laid the cornerstone with bespoke shoe manufacturing and a workshop. It wasn't until the fourth generation that importing Italian shoes became more lucrative than on-site production.

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110 CONCEPT

Fashionwise, Stephan Lanzer plays a leading role in Graz' retail world. A modern, younger trend store has recently joined his men's store.

Four generations later, Franz senior took his time before passing on the business to the fifth Franz Wunderl and his wife Andrea.

The father waited until they had given up their plans to open branches in Vienna and, after learning a valuable lesson, could appreciate the solid foundations in Sollenau.

Carefully they transformed the over 500 square metres of sales area, giving it a thoroughly modern, cosmopolitan look.

Now that the store's midsection has been remodelled, there are no doubts that the aesthetic vision of "the latest generation" matches the space in every detail.

Working hand-in-hand with Umdasch, the Austrian store concept company, they've created an intelligent and restrained interior design, which eliminates all in-shop storage space. This is quite an uncommon feature in shoe stores, but it makes sense: Here, sales advice is a top priority, and customers don't travel all the way to Sollenau for self-service.

"I simply find it aesthetically unacceptable to have shoe boxes in the store," says Franz junior. "We've never had them here, and we never will." This means more responsibility for the sales staff. "There has to be a pair that fits among the first three the customer tries on, otherwise shopping becomes frustrating, and you can't shake that feeling."

He says that the staff at Wunderl are there to inform and not pressure. "I'd never make a decision for a customer who's hesitating 112 style in progress

between two pairs of shoes – I would give him all the information he needs to make a good choice," he adds.

The Wunderls also take this approach when placing their orders. "We don't buy any shoes just because of the name or because someone believes this is must-have footwear.

At the end of the day, shoes still have to fit or they won't satisfy discriminating customers like ours." Once in a while, this means that Wunderl finds himself at odds with his suppliers' policies: "You have to be very careful about what you purchase these days, particularly from the large brands, because they constantly introduce models in their collections that offer too little quality for the recommended sales price. We simply don't purchase shoes like that."

The Big Breakthrough: Knilli in Graz.

The Graz fashion store Knilli has always had a reputation for being one of the ultimate shopping destinations. Now, it has got even better. After the last expansion, a third, quite surprising entrance was added to the menswear store, where visitors no longer encounter Etro, Santoni and Boglioli, but rather brands like Closed, Mu, Philippe Model and George Gina & Lucy. In contrast to the respectable and elegant menswear shop, where customer service is the overriding principle, Knilli's new young fashion store is an invitation to make spontaneous purcha-

ses. On 150 square metres of sales area, women accompanying their men on shopping sprees can enjoy a welcome diversion.

Knilli owner Stephan Lanzer: "The concept works and tremendously enriches the menswear store." Large floor-to-ceiling display windows draw shoppers into the store and the carefree merchandise presentation perfectly matches the relaxed shopping experience that the shop aims to provide.

Lanzer has opted for a combination of brands considered exclusive in Graz, such as caps from Warm-Me and boots by Fiorentini & Baker. And since they had already done some construction work, Knilli decided to go ahead and build a new outlet on Joanneumring, right next door to the main store.

The idea is to keep the womenswear, menswear and young fashion store a discount-free zone because the owner sees early price reductions as a serious threat. "It's simply unacceptable that everything is already marked down in late October. It makes you long for the days when sale prices were regulated."

Then he adds: "But at least here in Austria we hold our ground longer than they do in Germany." A true patriot would add: and not just in terms of price reductions, dear Lanzers, Frauenschuhs, Eders and Wunderls.

Congratulations on so many bold initiatives! www.frauenschuh.com, www.helmuteder.com www.knilli.at, www.wunderl.com

*OYPZ[PUH 2Y\ZL MVY

112 CONCEPT

Liebeskind will show its first women's outerwear collection for autumn/winter 2912/13 in Berlin.

The three Liebeskind founders: Johannes and Julian Rellecke with Semih Simsek (from left to right).

112 style in progress

CONCEPT 113

Let There Be Love!

Liebeskind Berlin | After bags, accessories and shoes, Liebeskind is now going one step further. In January Berlin will celebrate the premiere of the first Liebeskind fashion collection. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Liebeskind Berlin

ast November the Liebeskind founders introduced their collaboration with Joy Denalane under the motto "Style meets Soul." Together with Katharina Wulf, Liebeskind's Head of Design, Germany's most successful soul singer designed a bag whose proceeds are being donated for the building of a youth centre in Ethiopia. "It's a good project. I think that we now have the reputation as a brand to do things like this," says Managing Business Director Johannes Rellecke. Around 250 customers and guests came to the charity bag launch in Berlin and enjoyed an exclusive performance by Denalane.

And it won't be long before the next joint peformance. In January 2012 the first women's textile collection will be presented at Premium during the Berlin Fashion Week.

"This is a big project for us and we're working full speed ahead to be able to offer the Liebeskind fashion brand as a full package.

The first step will be an autumn/winter 2012/13 capsule collection with very original garments of up to seven different fabrics.

We're developing the ladies' outerwear collection step by step with the same design philosophy as the bag and shoe collection.

For us, it's important to meet the challenge of creating a casual, cool and typical Berlin style at good value for money," explains Managing Director and Creative Director Julian Rellecke. The next step will be to supplement the ladies' collection with dresses, jackets, tops and trousers, of which no more than 60 garments are in one colour.

L

A Solid Success Story. As owners of multibrand stores for ladies' shoes, bags and accessories, the brothers Julian and Johannes Rellecke were in search of high-quality, fashionable ladies' bags. They couldn't find full-grain leather at their 200 euro target price, so they launched their own bag brand Liebeskind in Berlin in 2003 together with Semih Simsek. "At the beginning we sold

our products in our own stores to see what would work and how. As we expanded our collection, we presented it to the retail market for the first time in 2004 at GDS in D端sseldorf. It was there that we met Noro Hoferer who, together with his agency I.G. Ideageneration, took over distribution for the Germany-Austria-Switzerland region," says Johannes Rellecke.

Liebeskind was a hit with its philosophy, product and price. The brand followed up with purses, key fobs, wrist bands and belts, which to date make up more than 80 per cent of the bag range's sales volume. There are seven collections a year and each collection features new styles, fabrics and colours.

Customers include Ludwig Beck, Breuninger, Daniels, Bailly Diehl, Ensmann and Reyer.

Due to its experience in shoe retail, Liebeskind added shoes to its portfolio in 2009.

In addition to ankle boots, boots and low shoes, which are mostly made in Italy, sandals and ballerinas are also sold in summer.

"As former retailers, we have good instincts when it comes to colours, fabrics and shapes.

We're specialists and are confident that we know what we're doing. In addition to expanding our shoe collection, which will triple in January in terms of models, fabrics and colours, we are currently pursuing a very aggressive growth strategy," he continues.

Johannes Rellecke, and adds: "In Italy, we're currently stocked by 130 stores, including Luisa Via Roma. In southern Europe and the USA, we're generally positioned in a very high-price segment." And both brothers agree that the northern European market is also developing very positively: "Scandinavia and Benelux are important regions for us.

Together with the big trade fairs, Copenhagen and Amsterdam are important hubs for us. We're well positioned in both countries and represented in at least one of the most important stores in every relevant city."

In November 2010 Bernd Freier, owner of the s.Oliver Group, purchased 50 per cent of Liebeskind's shares. Johannes Rellecke says: "He's a good partner and we discuss things in depth together. There are no operative synergies or strategic distribution alliances between the companies. This is an investment for him. Of course, we profit from the s.Oliver infrastructure, mainly when it comes to finances and specifically the capital market. To develop a market such as the USA, you must make serious investments.

The company already has more than 150 customers. Now we're stepping it up and showing what we're capable of; you can't be half-hearted about things like this. Of course, it really helps if you're not dependent on bank financing, but can use your own financial means."

Guaranteed Growth. In the Germany-Aus-

tria-Switzerland region, no new customers will be taken on at this time because the brand wants to encourage strategic alliances.

In addition to Europe, future growth markets include the USA and Asia. "In Japan, we have a few customers and here we see great potential because the product and categorisation work everywhere there.

That's why we're currently investing in Tokyo's trade fair. We're enjoying the most dynamic growth in southern Europe. One of the new and strong markets is Spain," says

Liebeskind was founded in 2003 as a bag brand. The Berlin-based design centre currently has 17 employees, 23 more employees work in administration and the central warehouse in two locations in North Rhine-Westphalia. Liebeskind is sold in around 1,200 stores in 20 countries.

The German-speaking countries currently have around 750 customers. Franchise single-label stores in D端sseldorf, Vienna and Munich are still an exception in the retail sector. Further stores are set to open at the end of January in Paris St. Germain and in M端nster during the course of the year.

style in progress 112

114 CONCEPT

Massimo Berloni and Manuela Mariotti, the duo behind Dondup.

Dondup's talent: edgy silhouettes and cool styles that make the classics desirable once again.

CONCEPT 115

"The Product Is the Testimonial of Our Values."

Dondup | Manuela Mariotti and Massimo Berloni created Dondup – a brand that is outstanding in many ways.

Now that LVMH has a stake in the company, it appears to have big international ambitions. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Dondup

or many years it was seen as an Italian phenomenon: the Dondup brand, which is known for more than just its sustainably produced premium jeans. Today it also earns complements for its unmistakable signature style. Indeed, the Dondup silhouette in denim is easily recognisable, but the women's, men's and children's collections also exude this special spirit, which even makes so-called classics look a little cooler.

It's a style inspired by Dondup's owners, the husband-and-wife team Massimo Berloni and Manuela Mariotti. If you ask designer Mariotti what she sees as the ideal Dondup woman, she merely responds: "A woman like me," in other words: beautiful, self-assured, feminine, no cheap sexiness and totally committed to her work and family. The men's collection is designed by Kevin J. Morley, who hails from the UK. His passion for research, materials and cuts has resulted in a product that may appear somewhat traditional at first glance, yet without resorting to gimmickry. All product lines are exclusively manufactured in Italy and exhibit a sense of determination.

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an impressively strong top dog. It's the power of his vision that allows Dondup to remain completely independent, even after LVMH bought a stake in the company. When he speaks with his smoky, loud voice, it's clear why the investors give him such a free hand.

With his razor-sharp analytical skills, he observes, gathers and in turbulent times steadfastly sticks to values and goals. Although the company has opened a Casa Dondup in Milan, which is to be followed by others, he explains why he'd still like to see Dondup in multi-brand stores: "I respect retailers who are 100 per cent entrepreneurs and have dedicated themselves to this work. They'll emerge strengthened from the crisis." Berloni also remains loyal to his sales and marketing agencies despite an intelligent order system which, in the eyes of Noro Hoferer, who is responsible for Germany and Austria, "could replace us sales reps any day." Berloni says, however: "We don't need agents to sell our merchandise. We need them to teach our customers about the culture of clothing and the Dondup brand."

Clothing As Culture. The degree to which

Strength, Vision and Clarity. These are cha-

racteristics that perfectly describe Berloni –

Mariotti and Berloni see their work as culture becomes clear when you visit the hubs

of their creativity. In Fossombrone their recently expanded company building delights visitors with its interior, which is a mixture of "country, shabby chic, Bohemian and vintage – I can't exactly pin down the style. It's probably just me," says Mariotti. These are characteristics that also apply to her collections – and it's thanks to this eclectic yet minimalist style that the women's and men's collections are well on their way to surpassing jeans as the main driver of sales. This is a gratifying development for everyone, including their investor, the LVMH group, which is uncharacteristically keeping to the background.

And yet the brand is looking to markets like China, the US, Benelux, Scandinavia and the German-speaking regions to further boost its growth. "Germany is a key market," says Berloni, "because we're more alike than you might think."

Dondup was founded eleven years ago in Fossombrone, Italy. Since 2010, L Capital, a LVMH subsidiary, has had a 40 per cent stake in the company. The goal is to establish the brand outside the strong Italian home market. Dondup is manufactured in Italy. The denim production is eco-certified. In 2010 the company posted revenues of 70 million euros. www.dondup.com

style in progress 112

116 OPINION

"Uniqueness Is an Outstanding Business Model" How are things going for the retail trade, what does the retail trade need... and what does it actually want? There's nothing easy about such apparently simple questions in today's complex times. Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Anna Rabbow

S

tephan Huber (Editor-in-Chief style in progress): Over the past few years,

we've seen that the retail trade – and not just the fashion retail trade – has been marginalised in the eyes of the public. In times marked by a great devotion to globalisation, and the possibility of rationalising and harmonising all processes, the concept of individualism appeared almost anachronistic. Concepts had to be replicable. Now I see a counter-trend. During the process of re-regionalising, accompanied by scepticism towards globalisation and a yearning for identity, the retail trade – or rather, what the retail trade stands for – has regained importance. How do you see the role of the retail trade? And what do you see as the attraction of being a retailer?

Andreas Feldenkirchen (Owner Feldenkirchen KG, Hamburg): I have an incredible

amount of fun scouting out real gems, discovering new products and deciding whether they fit into the selection: The excitement each season of seeing whether you made the right choices is a game that, amazingly 112 style in progress

enough, you never get tired of playing – even as it becomes more complex.

Stephan Huber: How is it more complex?

Harm Hesterberg (CEO Herm. Stiesing KG, Bremen): The competitive situation for

fashion retailers has changed dramatically over the past 10 to 20 years. In other words, it's become tougher, what with vertical concepts, the increasing verticalisation of many brands, the huge boom in online sales in recent years: All of this virtually forces retailers to develop an independent image and constantly sharpen it. But it's precisely this – successfully withstanding the enormous competitive pressure with innovation and identity – that I also see as an exciting and positive challenge. One goal for me right now is to make Stiesing as free as possible from brands that massively pursue a policy of verticalisation.

Andreas Feldenkirchen: It is the primary task of the retail sector to build up brands and products. It's almost a natural cycle for these brands to eventually become more widely available.

Kay Knipschild (Co-founder of Burg & Schild, Berlin): When we started five years

ago with Burg & Schild, we very consciously wanted to do a lot of things differently. The key principle has always been to add only collections and products to the selection that we genuinely stand behind with all our hearts. This isn't just because it's much more fun, but also because this is the only way we can be credible towards our customers. We cater to a very well-informed target group.

And they immediately sense if we're trying to sell something that we personally don't think is very good.

Stephan Huber: This exceptional autumn has mercilessly demonstrated one of the greatest problems facing fashion retailers and the garment industry as a whole. Heavy jackets and sweaters were in the display windows at a time when everyone was glad that summer had finally arrived. Winter merchandise was already on sale by the time temperatures started to dip below freezing.

This can't be healthy. Is the rhythm totally out of sync by now?

OPINION 117

"Retailers who can only move merchandise based on price disqualify themselves over the medium term anyway." Lars Braun, Herrenausstatter Braun

Lars Braun (CEO Herrenausstatter Braun, Hamburg): I'm actually very satisfied with

it. The problem is not the early start to the season, which, in fact, extends the sales period. Actually we enjoy brisk sales at an early date. What gets us all into trouble is the total chaos during discounts and end-ofseason sales.

Michael Klein (Linette, Hamburg): But the connection is quite obvious. The earlier the sales season starts, the earlier prices will be reduced.

Lars Braun: Not necessarily. Every business can decide for itself when to reduce its prices. We always try to mark down our prices as late as possible. The stress here is on "possible." The autumn of 2011 was certainly an unusual situation and a challenge for everyone.

Michael Klein: THAT you can only deal with from a position of strength. For most of us it's virtually impossible to resist the pressure from our competitors. This is particularly true at locations where large retail stores ultimately determine these dates.

Stephan Huber: Is it like a stampede? One starts and the others run with the herd?

Lars Braun: This automatic reaction is unfortunately rather widespread.

Kay Knipschild: The more distinctive the selection and the more enduring the products, the less you're affected by this pressure. At our shop, it's not our competitors who decide when it's time for markdowns. And many things aren't marked down at all because they don't have an expiration date.

Andreas Feldenkirchen: That has to be the ultimate goal. At the outset, when I spoke about wanting to scout out real gems, there was also a distinct economic aspect to it.

Uniqueness is an outstanding business model.

Harm Hesterberg: You have to admit that's not as easy as it sounds. But the experience of the past few years has shown that we shouldn't underrate our customers. They're looking for something special. And who could do this more credibly than a retail store? But if to a large extent my customers

only find items in my store that they can get elsewhere, then I become superfluous. Or I have to play the price card.

Stephan Huber: I really have to ask once again: Late summer in September is in fact nothing extraordinary. And if there had been time, at least until mid-January, to sell winter merchandise at regular prices, then there would have been no real reason for the big panic.

Andreas Feldenkirchen: That's right. These days the regular season is almost over before consumers are finally in the mood.

Stephan Huber: Strangely enough, everyone always agrees on this point. Why has it come to this? Why does merchandise, which actually can't be worn until December, have to be delivered by August? And why is the potential late summer month of September so essential for autumn/winter sales?

Lars Braun: Well, I don't agree, at least not completely. I have no problem with the early start to the season – and particularly in our segment everyone will agree that discerning, fashionable customers want to make their style in progress 112

118 OPINION

"This accelerating spiral stems from the desire to make sales as early as possible and before competitors get a piece of the pie."

Michael Klein, Linette

purchases this early. That's not to say that there aren't customers who don't go shopping until the weather reminds them that winter is coming. Once again: The problem is the early start of the markdowns. And the problem is competitors for whom markdowns are a system or even a ritual. Just so we have our cards on the table!

Harm Hesterberg: If manufacturers would stagger their delivery dates more intelligently – or, in some cases, stagger them at all – it would relieve the pressure somewhat.

Everyone knows these jokers who send out furs and down jackets in July because they want to receive payment for the expensive merchandise first.

Stephan Huber: On this topic the industry always points a finger at the retail trade: "We deliver at the point in time when the retail sector asks us to!"

Michael Klein: A classic chicken-or-the-egg debate. Ultimately this accelerating spiral stems from the desire to make sales as early as possible and before competitors get a piece of the pie. That's the motivation be112 style in progress

hind early delivery dates; that's the motivation behind early order dates. One side here can't point a finger at the other.

Stephan Huber: In many conversations, recently with increasing frequency, I've heard people come out in favour of government regulated discount sales policies...

Lars Braun: Does the state really have to get involved here? That would be a sad reflection on the sector, and all we would see is a sudden increase in the number of water damage and anniversary sales. Retailers who can only move merchandise based on price disqualify themselves over the medium term anyway.

Harm Hesterberg: It's totally unrealistic to think that we will see a comeback of end-ofseason sale regulations. But I don't think it's such a bad idea. Winter and summer end-ofseason sales used to be something really special.

They had a festival-like atmosphere. When you have one special sale after the other, though, they totally lose their attraction.

Stephan Huber: Price marketing doesn't work anymore?

Andreas Feldenkirchen: Consumers are

bombarded all year round with advertising for aggressively priced merchandise - not just in the fashion industry. People become immune to it. We also notice this about ourselves.

Stephan Huber: Lawmakers won't intervene because government regulation still smacks of a planned economy. But wouldn't it actually be in the interest of the brands to prevent their products from being devalued by indiscriminate price reductions with no guiding concept?

Andreas Feldenkirchen: The bottom line is that manufacturers have absolutely no way of influencing the pricing policies pursued by the retail trade. This has also been liberalised, let's say deregulated.

Michael Klein: The fairly common practice of including notices on orders stating the earliest date when an article may be marked down is not even legally relevant. The only option for suppliers is to stop dealing with retailers whose pricing or business policies generally don't match the brand's strategy.

120 OPINION

"Customers are looking for something special. And who could do this more credibly than a retail store?"

Harm Hesterberg, Stiesing

Stephan Huber: The ordering season begins earlier than ever and lasts longer than ever.

Sometimes retailers and sales representatives meet three or four times before they sit down together at the ordering table. That can be very nice, but isn't it incredibly exhausting for both sides? Why do today's retailers often need so much time to make a decision?

Harm Hesterberg: Because there are considerably more products on the market now – and because there are more international events. I'm basically a fan of quick gut decisions. But ordering is altogether more challenging and time-intensive than it used to be. Still, I'm sure the ordering period could be shortened. And I'd also be in favour of that.

Michael Klein: Thanks to the growing importance of pre-collections, the ordering periods are drifting even further out of sync, primarily when it comes to women's outerwear. We'll have to rethink everything medium term.

Stephan Huber: Four seasons? Finally?

112 style in progress

Michael Klein: I think that's where we're headed. Even today I see talking about two seasons as merely an old carryover.

Stephan Huber: One phenomenon, above all in the German-speaking markets, is the persistently expressed desire of retailers for exclusivity and protective distribution. Why is that so important? Sometimes you get the feeling that jealousy's playing a role here.

Lars Braun: Is this desire actually expressed so persistently? Or is it an allegation made by sales and marketing representatives?

Stephan Huber: That would make it a very well co-ordinated allegation among sales and marketing people...

Lars Braun: I basically have no problem if a brand is also sold to competitors who are in the same league. But I have to demand some sensitivity from the sales and marketing staff.

Andreas Feldenkirchen: This is primarily an issue in urban centres and cities. If a retailer decides on a new brand, and takes a risk in doing so, then it's only understandable that he wants to be compensated for the risk.

Stephan Huber: If I were the voice of the sales and marketing agencies in this discussion, I'd say: "The order volume determines exclusivity."

Harm Hesterberg: And everyone here would certainly agree. I think it's a matter of communication. As an existing customer, above all as a customer who's been there right from the start, I simply expect to be informed at the beginning of the season if a supplier wants to take on additional customers at my location.

Kay Knipschild: I worked for a long time in the sales and marketing department at G-Star – in other words, for a brand that was able to establish a truly wide sales network, especially in Germany. And that's precisely the principle that we adhered to there. If we wanted to sign up new customers in a city, then we informed the existing customers BEFORE the order was placed.

Stephan Huber: Let me bring up the following theory for discussion: The excessive desire for exclusivity and the fairly widespread willingness of sales and marketing

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122 OPINION

"I have an incredible amount of fun scouting out real gems." Andreas Feldenkirchen, Feldenkirchen

staff to fulfil it for certain retailers regularly leads to a situation where a product or a brand can't realise its full potential because too few end consumers know about it.

Kay Knipschild: Here's my own personal experience. Before the opening of KarlHeinz Mßller's 14oz, which is located just around the corner from our store, we fretted and worried like mad. There were clear overlaps, both conceptually and in terms of selection. But we've actually benefited because the new big neighbour has generated additional traffic – due to a target group that has similar tastes in products and quality.

Stephan Huber: Isn't exclusivity an anachronism anyway in view of the myriad of online shops?

Lars Braun: No! It's not about claiming a brand for oneself, but about having a brand that maintains its level. That might sound arrogant, but it's essential for a retailer in our price category. By the way, it's this debate that will grip the online retail sector once it's overcome the "Sturm und Drang" phase.

112 style in progress

Stephan Huber: Another hot topic – the relationship between retailers and sales representatives: Is the conspicuous bellyaching about each other on both sides actually an industry legend?

Lars Braun: Could we turn off the recording device for a second? No, seriously: What I've noticed is that there's often a lack of professionalism on the part of agencies and sales representatives. I don't want to condemn everybody. But it's an everyday experience in many aspects of our business relationships.

Stephan Huber: I regularly hear the same thing almost verbatim from "the other side."

Harm Hesterberg: No one can say that a lack of professionalism is a one-sided problem. But we've clearly noticed that the proportion of competent contacts in sales departments can't keep pace with the continuously rising number of collections that are represented. And if I have the feeling during an ordering session that I know significantly more about the brand than my counterpart, then that definitely leaves an odd impression.

Andreas Feldenkirchen: I'm personally familiar with both sides, and there are two things that really get on my nerves. First, as Harm Hesterberg pointed out, when somebody doesn't even know what he's trying to sell you. Second, what really drives me nuts is when he apparently doesn't know WHO he is selling it to - in other words, when someone holds a collection under my nose that goes right past my positioning on the market.

Lars Braun: A sales and marketing agency has the same obligations here that I do as a retailer. My staff also have to know what they're talking about. And they have to be capable of giving a customer advice that fits his or her type. This takes training, of course. And training like this often doesn't take place in sales agencies.

Stephan Huber: From the retailers' point of view, what else bothers you about your everyday interactions with sales reps?

Kay Knipschild: Time-honoured classics from the good old box of sales and marketing tricks, such as dropping more or less

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RED WING HERITAGE Brogue Ranger I Style No. 8126

124 OPINION

"At our shop, it's not our competitors who decide when it's time for markdowns. And many things are not discounted at all because they don't have an expiration date." Kay Knipschild, Burg & Schild

blatant hints about all of the other store owners who've supposedly already placed orders.

Andreas Feldenkirchen: And exerting massive pressure with regard to the order volume. They should trust retailers to know what they can and cannot sell.

Stephan Huber: Can you actually imagine how tremendously irritating retailers can be for the industry?

Michael Klein: It's in the nature of a business relationship that there's a potential for conflict. I think most conflicts arise from a lack of communication.

Stephan Huber: Due to the sluggishness of winter sales in the retail trade, the current ordering season can be seen as indicating to the way to the future – speaking euphemistically, of course. What are your expectations as you enter the year 2012?

Lars Braun: I really don't want to make it sound better than it was, but you really need to see the past few months from another perspective. Yes, it was a very difficult autumn for clothing retailers for a number of 112 style in progress

reasons: the weather, the general mood among consumers, and the fact that virtually everyone had too much merchandise. But aren't somewhat weak results or even a drop in revenues also part of the normal, longterm evolution of a business? And couldn't you say that the extremely successful year 2010 was seen by many retailers as an ambitious model? A company that can't come to terms with a situation like that has a much deeper problem than a-once-in-a-century autumn.

Harm Hesterberg: We'll certainly enter the new order round with a degree of caution, but, at the same time, not without boldness.

After all, it will be more important than ever to surprise and tempt customers in the future. And this can only succeed with exceptional products. We can't allow caution to compromise our eye for new things – for the nice little tidbits that are ultimately the most fun.

Andreas Feldenkirchen: In many cases, we'll definitely have to examine the order volume carefully. What's happening with

jackets? What's happening with denim?

How are prices evolving? How are individual collections evolving? This is undoubtedly a season where many people will critically question many things. But that's actually something positive.

Kay Knipschild: We feel totally confirmed in our unique path. And we'll continue to pursue this course.

Stephan Huber: Where do you actually find the nice little tidbits these days?

Kay Knipschild: If nothing else, through a good network and word-of-mouth.

Michael Klein: That's done these days on many different levels. Trips, media, recommendations...

Lars Braun: I'd like to put in a good word for the fairs. I, for one, find that shows like the Pitti Uomo, but also Berlin, are essential to forming an opinion. I'm entering the coming season with enormous exuberance and delight. It'll be a good season.

Stephan Huber: We couldn't expect a more upbeat closing statement. Thank you very much for joining us.

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Reiner Pichler: "When the product again stands in the centre of attention, then so does the specialised retailer trade."

112 style in progress

OPINION 127

Consumers Buy Products â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Not Sales Area Productivity!

Holy Fashion Group | In an interview with style in progress, Reiner Pichler, CEO of the Holy Fashion Group, talks about today's stylish young men, questions bank lending policies, and reveals his theme for 2012: best product!

Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Holy Fashion Group

Y

ou noted a number of years ago that you're competing with the iPod. Is that still true today?

Reiner Pichler: Basically, yes. We direct

our message to customers who reflect every day on what they want to buy with their disposable income. Fashion and clothing stand here in direct competition with other products that meet emotional needs. It's my impression, though, that fashion enjoys a higher status today than it did a few years ago, especially among men because the look has changed in many ways.

Men's public image and, of course, their fashion image have certainly changed considerably. What's more, "genuine masculinity" is celebrated within the fashion industry itself.

There are many different trends. The days of uniformity are over. Upon closer examination, the new masculinity has turned out to be a mosaic of various micro trends because the influences in a networked world are different than they used to be and purchasing options are more diverse.

When you board a plane or a train early in the morning, you nevertheless have the feeling that the majority of the men still prefer all-purpose functional jackets.

They wear them when they're walking their dogs and they wear them over their suits when they're on their way to a meeting.

Perhaps many men simply say "I'll buy myself an iPad, but I can still hold onto

my good old all-purpose jacket for a while."

Functionality is an important selling point, especially for men. So it's up to us to combine functionality and design so convincingly that we can top the iPad on their personal wish lists. I see a very gratifying development here among the younger target group. We certainly notice this in our sales figures. We're selling large quantities of narrow coats and jackets, along with smartly cut suits with low waistlines.

Has the industry managed to communicate the transition from the age of the business look to the age of the leisure look? Didn't the widespread image of men in sharp suits stop matching the reality of actual sales a long time ago?

I see this differently. There is no doubt that the casual and sportswear market has experienced massive growth. But despite all the predictions, the market for suits has recovered over the past two years. In fact, there's been a significant recovery because the industry has succeeded in establishing a new, modern look for suits and readyto-wear.

Would you say that Strellson is a vivid example of this development?

Sportswear is a relatively new segment for Strellson and, thanks to the strength of the brand and the product, it's been able to achieve a 40 per cent share of total sales within a relatively short period. That's impressive and it naturally underscores the status that sportswear has today. At the

same time, we've also continued to grow on the ready-to-wear front. In fact, we've experienced double digit growth.

Is that a brand-related phenomenon?

Not exclusively. There's generally a growing demand for young suits, and we're benefiting from this because we're good at it.

Within the Holy Fashion Group we see this with Joop! and, although it operates in another market segment, with windsor. The breathtaking development of windsor. is in no small part the result of a change in the entire ready-to-wear look, which our designers have very skilfully rendered.

I'd like to address another current trend that I find important. For a long time, people in the industry talked almost exclusively about sales areas and concepts and systems. These days they're talking again about products. Why?

End consumers don't buy sales area productivity, they buy products! And end consumers have to be at the forefront of our thinking, not markups, inventory turnover and lead times. It goes without saying that these are all factors that have to be on target because, at the end of the day, we want to earn money. But the product is the key â&#x20AC;&#x201C; today more than ever. It's good for all of us that the focus has returned to the essentials.

The 2012 theme for the Holy Fashion Group is as simple as could be: Best product!

What does this mean concretely?

What do consumers want? And how can we provide this with the highest possible level of style in progress 112

128 OPINION

A new, more modern look, such as the Traveller collection from Windsor, guarantees growth in the ready-made sector.

quality? These are the key questions for all our brands. We've done an excellent job over the past few years. Strellson is more solid and perfectly positioned on the market than ever. We've managed to take windsor. in a new direction without altering the brand's core, and we've been rewarded with impressive growth rates. Our collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger for 12 years was extraordinary. And now we have to take the same approach with Joop! We're in position and we've got a lot of work ahead of us, but thank God we know how to do it.

Why was the successful collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger brought to an end?

Because both companies are currently in a totally different place than they were twelve years ago when we started working together.

At this point in time both sides have decided that this collaboration no longer matches our corporate strategies. In retrospect, we can be proud of what we've achieved together. Tommy Hilfiger is the only sportswear brand that has been able to build up a substantial ready-to-wear business. We've learned a lot from each other and both sides have benefited.

Is the Holy Fashion Group focussing on the current portfolio, or are similar co-operations planned?

We still have so much potential: with all 112 style in progress

three of our brands, in all product groups, in current and new markets, and in the area of licensing. It'll take all of our energy to realise this potential over the long term.

For instance, what would a windsor. sportswear line look like? That's one of the things we're considering. With the launch of our third fragrance, we're also taking Strellson to the airwaves with TV advertising. These are just two of our current projects.

How important is the retail trade for the growth strategy of the Holy Fashion Group?

It's essential! After all, if the focus returns to the product, then the focus also shifts back to the retail trade as the product communicator. And we've observed that exciting new retail concepts are emerging internationally â&#x20AC;&#x201C; concepts that have to do with yearning, emotion and innovation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and not just fulfilling needs.

Don't we face the problem in the fashion industry that too few of these new, innovative retailing concepts are given an opportunity to prove their merit on the market because no one is willing to finance them?

That's actually a huge problem â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and not just in our industry. It's become extremely difficult to launch a startup in the retail trade, in part because the costs have risen so

dramatically. For instance, in many cities young entrepreneurs can hardly even pay the rent. The main problem, though, is that the banks are no longer doing their job. I recently had a conversation with the CEO of a large Swiss bank. He told me and other entrepreneurs what criteria would be used to grant loans in the future. In a nutshell: Money only goes to those who already have money. I said, if that's the case, what do we need the banks for? Then I cited the example of a young designer who needs startup financing, but according to these criteria has no chance of receiving it. Do you know what he said? The bank couldn't judge if this would become a successful business.

He said it would be better for companies like the Holy Fashion Group to finance such ventures because we know the industry.

An astonishing business approach...

We don't have a guarantee for a successful business, either. When we take new customers on board, we face the same issue. A new customer in France, for example, doesn't get a limit from any company. That's something we have to decide to the best of our ability.

In a certain sense, we actually do make loans and finance startups, and I see this as part of our corporate responsibility, which we can't and won't sidestep.

Thank you very much for this interview.

130 OPINION

We're Only As Good As Our Employees KTC Limited | "Made in China" has a bad reputation in Europe. But do the clichĂŠs still hold true? Gerhard Flatz, Managing Director of KTC Limited, the leading specialist for top-notch performancewear with headquarters in Hong Kong paints an entirely different picture. In an interview with style and progress he explains why "made in China" has become a seal of quality, how social and environment standards are important for a company's long-term strategy, and why it's sometimes important to say no. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: KTC

Gerhard Flatz, Managing Director KTC Limited: "The question is not whether products will be made in China, but how things will be made in China."

K

TC has a very open and selfassured approach to the "made in China" designation of origin. At the same time, in the premium and luxury segment, particularly in Western Europe, there's almost a knee-jerk defensive attitude on the part of consumers. How does KTC deal with such prejudices?

Gerhard Flatz: We're a Chinese company

and we're rightly proud of our company's performance and of our employees. KTC is not only known for the quality of its products, but also for its quality as an employer.

The company founders recognised early on 112 style in progress

that long-term success is only possible if the welfare of employees is seen as a key component of corporate policy.

The notion that people, and thus workers, in industrialised China don't count for much has become almost common knowledge in the West...

China is undergoing a development at lightning speed that took Europe centuries to complete. Child labour, exploitation, pollution â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all of these things existed and, of course, continue to exist. But today there is an awareness of these issues and tangible progress has been made.

As I've mentioned, early on KTC began to take a comprehensive approach to the company, and this was definitely in its own interest. This really became a public issue at the turn of the millennium. At the time we were still working closely with Adidas. It was thanks to the media that such big names had to increasingly focus on the worldwide image of their manufacturing companies.

This wave of public interest motivated us to become highly active as a manufacturer. In other words, to no longer merely react to the public interest and the brands' so-called codes of conduct, but as a company to

OPINION 131

"Art of performance manufacture." Top quality handwork plays a decisive roll at KTC.

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132 OPINION

The multi-stretch philosophy of Swiss luxury brand Mountain Force demands innovation of the highest level from KTC.

gradually achieve the highest possible standards for KTC. And I'm referring to all areas. Our objective was to become a model company on the international market.

made in China, but how things will be made in China.

What concrete steps have you taken?

No doubt about it. But how can China manage to shake off its image as the cheap workbench of the West?

There have been many small steps. To prove to ourselves that we're on the right track, but also to show the rest of the world that this approach is possible, we applied for membership in the Fair Wear Foundation in 2010. They were sceptical at first because they're actually geared to brands. But we were able to convince them and in May 2011 we were accepted as one of the first manufacturers. We've also approached the public via the media and on the internet.

The idea is to introduce a new mindset across the board: first, in the industry by having an increasing number of companies prove that high social and environmental standards are compatible with cost-effectiveness; second, among consumers by overcoming existing prejudices toward "made in China." China is a key, indispensable component in the chain of production. Without China there would be no more waterproof jackets – or at least not even close to the volume that the global market requires. So the question is not whether products will be

There's a great deal of arrogance behind this image. In today's China there's so much expertise and innovation that they basically dispel all these clichés. KTC is an acronym that stands for "Knowledge, Technology and Craft." And these aren't empty words. This is precisely what we stand for, and it's why our customers appreciate us and it describes our strategy. Today we are specifically targeting a customer portfolio that combines the highest standards with function and design.

Our years of working with Odlo definitely played a key role here. This is also currently the case with customers like Mountain Force, whose multi-stretch philosophy has presented us with big challenges. The fact that we can meet such challenges, and that we are a sought-after partner for exactly this reason, underscores that we're on the right track. We're striving to lead the world in the "art of performance manufacture" – as a Chinese company: not just in China, but worldwide. And we display a corresponding sense of self-confidence. We actively ap-

112 style in progress

proach the media. We invite them to visit us on location and see for themselves how serious we are about this. And I sense a growing interest there. The Financial Times has visited us, as have Germany's ARD and NDR TV networks. And the fact that we're providing outfits for all the hostesses at this season's ispo is also an important signal.

Does the road that KTC has taken serve as a model for the future of China as a manufacturing centre?

Absolutely. Right now, though, some people think we must be nuts. In the summer of 2011, we took what by Chinese standards is a revolutionary step when we made an offer for our building, which until then had been owned by the local Chinese government as part of a joint venture, and eventually purchased the property. This was ultimately a signal that we intend to remain at our Hong Kong location, even though the costs here have risen considerably and will continue to rapidly rise. Moving to northern China won't solve any problems. Wages are also going to rise there. And we're not a travelling circus. The low-cost segment has already moved on anyway – to Bangladesh and Burma. At some point in time North Korea will emerge as the next location. And then

134 OPINION

Gerhard Flatz: "Anyone needing skilled workers in China has to offer them something, and not just good wages, but a place to live."

we'll have reached the end of our wanderings. From a long-term and sustainable perspective, there's no future in that for a company. We're only as good as the people who work for us. At our location here we've built up such a highly qualified workforce that it would be completely illusory to think that we could suddenly relocate to some backwater without suffering a loss in quality.

Indeed, we're taking another route by consciously investing here – in our employees, in our machine park and, last but not least, in our infrastructure. For instance, we've built a sports facility for all of our employees and furnished it with top-notch equipment.

If you want to retain skilled workers in China, you have to offer them something in return. A good salary isn't enough. They need a home.

Is there a lack of skilled workers in China?

That's an increasing problem. In our sector it's even taken on massive proportions.

Anyone who was able to work at a sewing machine ten years ago is now working in an office. And it's becoming more and more difficult to recruit new personnel. The general notion that China has an absolutely inexhaustible source of labour is also one of these clichés that no longer stands up to reality. This is because work demands have increased, but also because a seamstress's job still has a very poor image and, in comparison to other industrial jobs, such as mobile phone assembly, is more demanding. The 112 style in progress

surplus of men that has resulted from China's one-child policy has made the situation even worse.

How's KTC dealing with this?

First, we're trying to minimise workforce fluctuation as much as possible. In 2005 we were at 50 per cent, but today we've reduced fluctuation to 22 per cent. My goal is to bring it down to 15 per cent. Second, we're working intensively to become a sought-after employer. However, both of these things are only possible if we as a company genuinely have something to offer our employees.

Once again: The wage component is very important. But the family aspect is even more important. Young seamstresses are often living away from home for the first time. They need a social network; they need a sense of security. We've started for instance to visit the families of our seamstresses, as a small courtesy – but also to show that their children aren't being exploited by us; they're valued and important employees. This has helped us a lot. Indeed, personal recommendations are the most important tool for recruiting workers in China.

Could you envision the flow changing direction over the medium term? In other words, that China or Chinese manufacturers would take their expertise and relocate to places like Europe and establish production sites there?

The partial reversal of the transfer of expertise is already a reality. I see KTC as a perfect example of this. We are continuing to de-

velop our expertise in collaboration with our customers, and the products that we manufacture with cutting-edge technology bring this expertise to Europe. Know how made in China!

Doesn't the knowledge gained in the areas of function, outdoor garments and manufacture tempt you to take an entirely different step, namely to develop your own brand?

That would seem like a natural step at first glance. In fact, most brands were created by manufacturing firms. But why should we venture into a new area that we know too little about when there's so much potential in the sector where we're better than most of our competitors? We strive to be a reliable partner for our brands, and our role in this partnership is the production.

So it's also important to be able to say no?

That's an underrated ability. After all, the market is already saturated anyway.

Thank you very much for this interview.

KTC LIMITED (Knowledge, Technology and Craft) was founded in Hong Kong in 1971 by two Austrians, Hans Kremmel and Dieter Waibel, and is today one of the world's leading specialists for high-quality functional and outdoor clothing.

Production sites: Hong Kong, China, Laos Customers (selection): Arc'teryx, Mammut, Mountain Force, Musto, Odlo, Rapha, Gore Bike & Running Wear, Toni Sailer. ktcquality.com

Denim High Value Made in Heaven Astrid Jane

112 style in progress

Ounces, washes, treatments â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or fit, comfort, shape? After the hype about US authentics and celebrity-driven premium jeans, a new trend has come to stay: jeans that celebrate femininity and strive to prove their value. Or should we replace the "j" word with trousers, which are giving the new denims some pretty stiff competition. style in progress has picked out four brands from the new, and some of the old, players of the premium denim scene. They're representative and have one thing in common: Their expense is justified by their quality.

Notify Mother Denim

OPINION 137

No One Has Enough Money to Buy Cheap Things Anymore Mother Denim | Tim Kaeding and Lela Tillem started Mother Denim right after the L.A. wave toppled in about 2008.

Mother seduces women with an outstanding tactile experience in high end jeans. Interview: Miranda Hoogervorst. Photos: Mother Denim

Tim Kaeding, founder of Mother Denim based in Los Angeles.

T

he L.A. wave was pretty crazy.

Looking back Tim, what do you think of this wave?

What happened with the L.A. wave was that everything started looking a bit the same.

Everyone was using the same looking denim, the same washes. And the celebrity marketing has gotten so overdone; it doesn't mean anything anymore. I don't want to be one of those L.A. kinds of brands; I want Mother to be special and a little more high end.

Why did you launch a high end denim brand in the middle of the crisis?

The high end denim brand, that's our area of specialty. Plus, we're in a recession now but nobody is starting companies. We're really one of the few companies that has done something new and exciting in denim in the last few years. A friend said to me that no one has enough money to buy cheap things anymore. And that's true; if people want to invest in something beautiful, it has to last a while.

What makes Mother Denim stand out in the women's jeans market?

What I wanted to inject in this brand was a soft element. There's finish and fabric and fit, but no one is really addressing how it feels. Our jeans look like jeans, but they don't feel like jeans, they are extremely soft.

Why did you use the high end price strategy?

In the period after 2008, jeggings became popular. You could find them also at the Gap and J. Crew for fifty bucks and you couldn't tell the difference from high end labels. With Mother we wanted to go back to using really high end denim. The whole idea is that if we're expecting women to buy our two hundred dollar jeans, they'd better be pretty phenomenal.

using these beautiful, soft fabrics and combine that with new proportions, it will be interesting.

What's your European distribution strategy for Mother Denim?

We try to tackle one country at the time because we have limited capacity; we don't want to extend ourselves too quickly. So we started first with the UK and Germany, including Austria and Switzerland, and in Italy last season. These are our targets now, but we are represented in almost every country in at least one store, because people also buy after our shows in NY.

Your '70s style flared pants are very popular now. How can Mother Denim remain interesting, after this '70s revival has gone?

I'm trying to build a fashion brand, not just a denim brand. We've come off the '70s now and we're moving to the proportions of the '20s and '50s. Proportions can turn jeans into something different. As long as I keep

Mother Denim was launched in 2010 by Tim Kaeding, co-founder of 7 For All Mankind and Lela Tillem, former Head of Sales at Citizens of Humanity. The brand is fully produced in Los Angeles and is sold in the US and Europe. www.motherdenim.com

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138 OPINION

It's All about the Product Made in Heaven | Chloe Lonsdale, owner of MiH (AKA Made in Heaven), has denim in her blood: Her mother is legendary '70s denim model Chekkie Maskell, her father started the denim boutique chain Jean Machine and her godfather was the original founder of Made in Heaven. Whilst leveraging the family's roots in denim, Lonsdale has one thing in mind: integrity. Interview: Miranda Hoogervorst. Photo: MiH

The colour of Chloe Londsdale´s blood is probably deep indigo-blue.

W

hat drove you to relaunch?

Chloe Lonsdale: The premium

denim market six years ago was dominated by L.A. brands, such as 7 For All Mankind, True Religion and a million imitators that came and went. I grew up with my parents' individual point of view about how you should wear jeans, how you should style them and what was important about them: It wasn't about creating fast fashion denim. I had a lot of beautiful images of Mum in the '70s, barefoot in a pair of jeans with a Tshirt, exuding this sense of natural style and softness in how she wore her denim. You just didn't see that five years ago in all the American brands - I saw an opportunity.

How have you created a niche in today's saturated denim market?

My dad was considered very revolutionary in the early '70s for introducing jeans to the British public and making a product that everybody could buy into. It was accessible, it was modern, it was fresh, it was clean. If you take those key words and apply them 112 style in progress

today, that's what we're doing. When you look at the product, it certainly doesn't look like something that originated in the '70s. I think it just has an inherent confidence because it has come from a jeans maker who's been in business for such a long time.

wearing the jeans, but we've scaled back because we don't want to laden it with so much information that people feel it's more important than the product.

How important is the brand's heritage?

The American market is driven by volume and trends, but as a jeans brand you have to remember who your customer is. A lot of contemporary brands strive to make a good product, but they're changing their aesthetic all the time. It's really important to be a little more focused so that women know why they're coming to you.

For the first three years, we were talking to an extremely small customer base, who loved the heritage so much they were charmed into buying the product. Now the proportion of people that actually don't know about our heritage when they buy our jeans is over 50 per cent. I think it's good to know; that means it has gone from being a nice story to people just loving the product.

It is so successful at the moment because we inherently have so much knowledge and support at our fingertips from being in the jeans business 30 or 40 years. Now it has permeated the product and that shows, so we don't need to speak about it so much.

We used to have hangtags on the product with old black and white pictures of Mum

How does MiH differ from US denim brands?

The '70s British denim brand Made in Heaven, was relaunched as MiH in 2005. Produced in Turkey and Italy, the brand prides itself on quality and flattering cuts. '70s celebrities Jane Birkin and Farrah Fawcett have been replaced by Claudia Schiffer and Gwyneth Paltrow. www.mih-jeans.com

31.01.- 02.02.2012

140 OPINION

Compromises Are Bad for Business Notify | Notify is known as the couturier of premium denim brands. Working together with the import and distribution agency CP fashion, Notify founder and owner Maurice Ohayon has a clear goal in mind: generating enthusiasm on the German market for his collection. Interview: Martina MĂźllner. Photo: Bernhard Musil, Notify

A gentleman in jeans: Maurice Ohayon, founder of Notify.

W

hat are your plans for Germany, Austria and Switzerland?

The German-speaking countries are a key market, which is why I've teamed up with Reinhart Oberstein to get to know this region better. My experience has been that customers and consumers are extremely loyal, but sceptical of changes. The many similarities with the UK and US markets are astonishing. In order to be strong in Germany, you first have to be popular in the US.

How would you rate the current US market?

People in America are looking for something new. The ten premium denim brands all use similar materials and washes, like one great big copying machine. They even have virtually identical marketing campaigns: Everyone uses the same celebrities so that the whole system becomes one big repeat.

Where do we need innovation now?

Ten years ago, premium jeans were basically all alike, and anybody who wanted to make 112 style in progress

their brand more successful just had to do some marketing. Now that all marketing and in-store initiatives have been exhausted, we need more imaginative designs.

Isn't there a risk of overshooting the mark with too much imagination?

Exactly. When we switched from bootcut to skinny, for example, we were far too early and very anti-marketing as a supplier: no warehouse, no exchange of goods. Successful models were tossed out of the collection from one season to the next if I thought they were fashion irrelevant. It wasn't an easy approach, but it brought our sales to the current 20 million euros.

individually branding jeans. This matches our couture concept. I want to remain a craftsman. With the sale of Seven Seven, I've shown that profits and maximizing sales are not my thing.

Does this individuality result in a big collection?

Yes, there are 12 to 15 new styles every season â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with the slim fits alone! Sometimes it can get a bit cluttered here, but that suits our customers, 80 per cent of whom never re-order because it goes against their avantgarde character to keep buying the same thing.

What makes Notify different from its competitors?

I don't believe in minimum orders or mandatory articles. By the same token, no one can order me to eat four sandwiches if I'm not hungry. I say: Take what you want from the buffet. We offer clients exclusivity in their selection â&#x20AC;&#x201C; We reserve individual colours just for them, including the option of

Notify was established in 2003 by Maurice Ohayon and has distributors in Europe, the US and Japan. The brand is manufactured in Italy and collaborates with designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Manish Arora. New: the Kids Collection, which is managed by Ohayon's daughter. www.notify.fr

OPINION 141

Providing Substance Astrid Jane | With his Astrid Jane brand, Belgian Bart Van de Woestyne intends to give new meaning to premium denim: His small, exclusive womenswear collection offers tangible quality. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photo: Bernhard Musil, Astrid Jane

Twenty-five years of denim experience, packed in a minimalistic and quality-oriented women's jeans collection: Bart Van de Woestyne, the man behind Astrid Jane.

B

orn in Nashville, Tennessee, raised in Europe – that's the selfstyled definition of your collection.

What's behind the name?

Astrid is the first name of a Swedish princess who, following her marriage to King Leopold III, became the queen of Belgium. She was only 29 years old when she died in a car accident in Küssnacht. She was an extraordinarily beautiful woman whose tragic death made her the Lady Di of her day.

Astrid gives the brand a royal note, while Jane – just think about adding Birkin to that– stands for a rock'n'roll attitude.

Do women who wear Astrid Jane bring together both worlds?

Yes, their denims may be luxurious and chic, yet never shallow and unsophisticated.

In your home country of Belgium and in the Benelux countries, you got off to a promising start. How open have the other markets been?

In our home markets the fact that a Belgian founded a denim brand generated a good deal of attention and media reports. But I'm a nobody outside of Belgium. So, yes, it has been more difficult in other markets, but we've managed to win over important customers like Frauenschuh in Kitzbühel, a retailer known for being incredibly qualityconscious. I'm not in any hurry: I'd rather convince the good ones and slowly build things up than become the next hype brand that turns out to be just a flash in the pan.

stance. But the real wow effect – and I've been told this by all our retailers – is how perfectly they fit. Every little detail of these jeans, which look so clean and sophisticated, has been fine-tuned – giving salespeople an opportunity to convince their customers of their genuine qualities.

You manufacture in Italy. What are the advantages of this location?

What qualities win over women customers?

There are still authentic craftsmen in Italy and I need their talents and skills to make my vision a reality. It's important for my production facilities to be close by, so I can be on hand for each phase of development.

Our high-quality standards already come into play when we select the fabrics. For instance, we use innovative stretch fibres that allow the fabric to expand in all directions without losing its shape, so the jeans don't start looking baggy. They're pleasant to the touch, the style is elegant, and details like mother of pearl buttons attest to their sub-

Astrid Jane is presenting its third collection during the 2012 autumn/winter season. The brand features a line that consists of a limited number of styles and finishes. Astrid Jane is currently distributed in the Benelux countries, German-speaking countries (Germany, Austria and Switzerland), the UK and the US. www.astridjane.com

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REBEL WITHOUT A CAUSE Photos: Stefan Milev/Kombinatrotweiss Styling & production: Sabine Berlipp/www.adhocbooking.com H/M: Heiko Palach/www.sternen-faenger.com Model: Timon/www.talents-models.com Location: We would like to thank the Deisl company and artist Xandi Steinwender for their hospitality.

Jacket: Stone Island Sweater: C.P. Company Shirt: Harbour Trousers: Closed Shoes: Floris van Bommel

112 style in progress

FASHION&INSPIRATION 143 Jacket: Peuterey Sweater: Closed Shirt: A.T.P.&Co

style styleininprogress progress112 112

Leather jacket: Mabrun Camouflage jacket: Gold Bunny Shirt: Tortuga Trousers: AG Adriano Goldschmied Shoes: Fly London

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Jacket: HTC Sweater: Burlington Shirt: Aglini Trousers: Brax

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146 FASHION&INSPIRATION

Jacket: Napapijri Shirt: Victorinox

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FASHION&INSPIRATION 147 Leather jacket: Strellson Shirt: R95th Jeans: Hilfiger Boots: Red Wing

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FASHION&INSPIRATION 149 Coat: Meindl Scarf: Habsburg Sports jacket: La Martina Trousers: Guess Shoes: La Martina

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LORD DARKNESS Photos: Stefan Milev/Kombinatrotweiss Styling & production: Sabine Berlipp/www.blossommanagement.de H/M: David Lee Grenda/www.blossommanagement.de Model: Boris Schlichting/Tiad Model: Lea/ www.megamodelagency.com Location: www.nibelungenhalle.de We thank Ms. Blumenthal for her hospitality.

Jacket: Barbour Shirt: Original Vintage Style Trousers: 7 For All Mankind

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Jacket: Etiqueta Negra T-shirt: Pagano Trousers: Stone Island

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Lingerie: Yummie Tummie

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Lingerie: Hanro Jacket: CBY Shirt: Kilian Kerner

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Jacket: Cinque Shirt: House of the Gods Trousers: J.Lindeberg Leather jacket: HTC Trousers : Hanro Stockings: Falke

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Shirt: Arrow Jacket: Victorinox

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Vest : Closed Shirt: Riviera Club

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Jacket: Firma Shirt: Drakewood

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WINTER COLOURFUL Photo: Ben Wolf/www.benwolf.de Styling & production: Sabine Berlipp/www.sabineberlipp.de H/M: Sacha Schuette/Tune management using Pantene Model: Mia/www.devamodels.es

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From left to right: Jacket WLG . Bikini top Firma . Hot pants Zacharia Angel . Socks Happy Socks . Shoes Mascar贸 Vest Habsburg . Jeans jacket Sens Soie . Shirt Fine Collection . Belt Celiaczerlinski . Jeans Mac . Shoes Model's own Sweater Clarissa Labin . Earrings Vanessa Baron . Jeans Current Elliot . Loop bag A Bow Hip Bag . Shoes Emma Go Cardigan Clarissa Labin . Body Wolford . Jeans MIH Jeans . Shoes Paco Gil

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From left to right: Jacket CBY . Blouse Closed . Chain Las Dalias . Trousers Elastfit . Headphones Urbanears . Shoes Model's own Coat Schneiders . Shirt Fine Collection . Hot pants Sens Soie . Belt Celiaczerlinski . Shoes Mascar贸 Cardigan Dear Cashmere . Sweater Dear Cashmere . Jeans Brax . Belt HTC . Shoes Emma Go Top Steffen Schraut . Chain Shookai . Jeans Adriano Goldschmied . Shoes Buffalo

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From left to right: Top RenĂŠ Lezard . Flower Ibiza World Family . Bracelet Freigeist . Belt HTC . Trousers Astrid Jane . Shoes Emma Go Trousers True NYC . Vest 0039 Italy . Blouse Samantha Sung . Chain Ubu . Bag Steffen Schraut . Shoes Emma Go Jacket Soaked in Luxury . Shirt Bloom . Trousers 7 For All Mankind . Shoes Buffalo Trousers Silver Jeans . Blouse Mu . Brooch Hoss . Belt HTC . Shoes Stylist's own

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164 LOOK&FEEL

A small shopping oasis for women: The store is away from the tourist hustle and bustle and has a comfortable feeling of peace and intimacy.

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Closer to the Scene Classico / Hamburg. With 10 multi-brand stores, his own online shop and his own label called bloom, Harald Heldmann has quietly risen to become a Hamburg heavyweight – and a serious contender outside of town as well. Together with his wife Christine, he has been running the Classico chain of retail stores for over 20 years. Now, he's also opened a new outlet in the Hamburg St. Georg district. Text: Nicolette Scharpenberg. Photos: Anna Rabbow

Friendly welcome: Gina Sobek is Branch Manager of the new Classico store on Lange Reihe.

hen Harald Heldmann and his wife Christine founded the company Classico and opened their first store in 1986, this kind of establishment was called a "shop for sports outerwear." Today, Christine Heldmann manages the multi-brand stores, which include a total of eight Classico branches in Hamburg, one in Lübeck and a branch called Paula at Eppendorfer Baum. Harald Heldmann founded Textilhandels GmbH in 1993. He also manages the sales for the cashmere label bloom, which he named five years ago and is now available in over 300 stores in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Scandinavia. But the Classico shops are still his best customer.

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An Eye on Everything. The myclassico online store has grown into a remarkably successful independent spin-off. Ten full-time employees constantly work to improve the business and focus exclusively on the webshop. "We're constantly busy making improvements, both online and offline," he says. There are already plans to move the shop in Lübeck to a larger commercial space; in the spring, the store at the Colonnaden will get a new look; and the store on Poststrasse, which once bore the Heldmann name, has already received a makeover and renamed Classico. The Hamburg businessman is not about to rest on his laurels, though. When asked about the size of its workforce, he gives one of those typical Heldmann grins and responds: "Around 100 people come to our Christmas party."

Hamburg's SoHo. In March 2011 the tenth Classico shop opened

in the Hamburg St. Georg district on die Lange Reihe – a vibrant small street, with a large number of boutiques and cafés that is often referred to as the SoHo of Hamburg. "Die Lange Reihe is a good alternative location in Hamburg that will continue to develop over the medium term," says Heldmann. The branch at die Lange Reihe replaces the store at Wandsbeker Quarree. "The east side of Hamburg is rapidly changing in terms of the target group," says Heldmann, who explains that "the quality residential areas have been surrounded by new buildings. This means that the genre has gone into decline."

The store on die Lange Reihe has brands like Woolrich, Peuterey, Boss Orange, Seven for All Mankind, Liebeskind and, of course, bloom displayed on 112 square metres of floor space. "This store has given us a better foothold on the fashion scene. Die Lange Reihe is currently experiencing rapid development, and the back end of the street in particular has a promising fashion future," he says.

Classico. Lange Reihe 104, 20099 Hamburg/Germany, www.myclassico.com Opening: 31 March 2011. Retail space: 112 sqm. Owner: Harald Heldmann.

Branch Manager: Gina Sobek. Staff: 2 full-time, 3 part-time.

Womenswear: 0039 Italy, 1921, Alberotanza, Alexia London, Ana Alcazar, Arma, B. Belts, Beck Söndergaard, Belstaff, Bloom, Boss Orange, Braez, by Second Female, Camouflage Deluxe by Frank Stork, CB, Cimarron, Dante6, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Denham, Derbe, Dorothy Blue, Flowers for Friends, Fidelity, H. Eich, Hemisphere, Henry Christ, IQ, Jagger & Evans, Joana Danciu, Kennel und Schmenger, Kiki’s Bijoux, Kudibal, Liebeskind, Loopielove, Lua, Martinica, Mason’s, Mauritius, Mel & Davis NY, Monocrom, Nakamol, Nolita, Oakwood, Palomitas by Paloma Barceló, Parola, Peuterey, Post & Co, Pretty Ballerinas, Primabase, Pyaar, Reptile’s House, Sack’s, Sete di Jaipur, 7 For All Mankind, Style Butler, Superdry, Taschen Verlag, Ted Baker, True Religion, WET, Woolrich.

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166 LOOK&FEEL

New Home Ela Selected / Düsseldorf. After a brief interlude in the city centre of Düsseldorf, Ela Selected has found a new place in the creative south of the city. Ela, the owner, is happy with her decision and so are her customers. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Ela Selected

Entrance over the ramp: Visitors find the flair of a loft in the new Ela shop in Düsseldorf's Bilk district.

his is so you!" says a Cologne dramatist spontaneously as she walks through the door. Ela now occupies a floor in an old projector factory in a neighbourhood that is home to other creative minds. The entrance to the new store-loft is above a ramp. Inside, the high ceilings, concrete floors, wooden beams and adjustable container and garment racks exude the industrial flair typical of such spaces. Small eye-catchers are displayed throughout the room, including a Mexican prayer corner, bottles of Russian vodka, a table laid with paper dishes, and charity objects by minimalist Imi Knoebel.

Ela, as everyone calls the owner Gabriela Holscher, isn't just a Düsseldorf institution: She's the ambassador for avant-garde fashion.

For over 35 years, she has been carrying carefully selected collections and has always enjoyed experimenting and working closely with artists and designers. Unterbilk is currently changing into a centre for creativity and seems to be the perfect place for Ela, who, as her followers know, never really felt at home downtown on Hohe Strasse.

The blond powerhouse with amazing red lipstick shares her work and private life with partner Antonio di Marco. She's the heart and soul of the company, which is everything but mainstream. The biblical quotation "fear not" is her life motto. "I've been in this business

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for so long that I think I should be able to decide which labels I want to carry," she says. Hannes Roether from Munich is one of those labels, as are Butterfly Soulfire from Berlin and Barbara I Gongini from Copenhagen. Her own collection, which builds on geometric shapes such as the circle, is made in Düsseldorf.

She has helped a number of avant-garde designers establish themselves and build up her own loyal clientele in the process. "A lot of customers didn't know I was moving but still manage to find me," she says smiling. These customers appreciate Ela's honest advice and the very individual labels and looks she carries that in no way lag behind the current season's trends - a welcome ray of light in the conforming world of fashion retailers.

Ela Selected. Volmerswerther Straße 21, Liesegang Projektion, Haus 3, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.ela-selected.com Opening: September 2011. Owners: Gabriela Holscher, Antonio di Marco.

Retail space: 105 sqm. excluding office and storage space.

Labels: 10 sei 0 otto, A2, Airbag Craftworks, Barbara í Gongini, Butterfly Soulfire, ellen:truijen, Hannes Roether, Henriette Steffensen, Moritz Wenz Floez, fppo, Werkstatt:münchen, Henrik Vibskov, Format berlin, Odeur, Reinhard Plank, The Girl and the Gorilla, Zeitlos by Luana.

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Clear lines, avant-garde fashion, special accessories: Ela has stayed true to her concept for years.

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168 LOOK&FEEL

The interior of Stulz's new men's store is modelled on an old English commercial room. A total concept of fashion, home accessories and fine food for men.

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Life's Little Pleasures stulz – mode:genuss:leben / Waldshut-Tiengen. Stulz has been selling lingerie, womenswear and menswear in Waldshut-Tiengen, Germany for over 80 years. Today, Anette and Thomas Wartner want to specialise in things that make life a little bit nicer and more stylish. Text: Nicolette Scharpenberg. Photos: Stulz

"We want to offer our customers an exciting and inspiring shopping experience that combines all of life's little pleasures."

Thomas Wartner, stulz – mode: genuss:leben

hen Anette Wartner, née Stulz, took over her parents' company together with her husband in 2008, Stulz was a typical fashion retailer with typical brands. The takeover was about to change that. "We knew we had to move away from the department-store fashion towards more high-quality, modern styles. We still carry some of the brands, such as Basler, but buy the collections differently. We've become more individual, and not so much like a traditional fashion house," says Thomas Wartner. The range is not the only thing that's been modernised, the concept has too: "We renamed the store stulz-mode:genuss:leben: It's now an exciting and inspiring place where many of the special things in life come together," he says.

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Classic with a Twist. The separation of the women's and the men's store was completed in September 2011: The women's store remained in the old building while the men's store opened in a different building just a few doors down. Splitting the store in two made it possible to expand the range: "In womenswear, Henry Cotton's, Deha Italy, The Swiss Label, Boglioli Donna and Hauber are new brands that sell very well. We've also introduced higher quality menswear by adding more fashionable styles to the range such as Hackett London, Henry Cotton's and Luca Roda," says Anette Wartner.

The interior of the men's store is modelled on an old English commercial room: brown leather sofas, dim lighting, wooden boxes decorated with English flags. Classic men's shirts decorate wooden tables, which are the optical anchors of the 120 square metre store. Thomas Wartner says: "Our clientele is between 30 and 50. We've noticed that the older group is changing the most: They're looking for more modern outfits with a twist, which they find in our store, of course."

From Family Business to Total Concept. Expanding the fashion

range was only one reason to open the second store. "Since 2008, we've been carrying books, fancy food and home accessories in addition to fashion. Now that we've expanded, we can go all out and refine our collection of men's and women's fashion," he says. Twice a month, Stulz publishes a customer magazine where the couple not only explains the background of the collection, but also has goodies in store such as a raffle of hotel vouchers. A must are the customer events, which can include having a barista who prepares special coffee creations that add to the total shopping pleasure. "The increasing competition from online shops has motivated us to give our customers a reason to continue shopping at traditional stores," he adds. stulz – mode:genuss:leben. Women: Kaiserstraße 64, 79761 Waldshut-Tiengen/Germany, T 0049.7751.3513 Men: Kaiserstraße 46, 79761 Waldshut-Tiengen/Germany, T 0049.7751.8962470, info@stulz-mode.de, www.stulz-mode.de Opening of the men's store: 8 September 2011. Owner: Anette Wartner.

Managing Directors: Anette and Thomas Wartner. Staff: 7.

Retail space Stulz womenswear: 150 sqm. over two floors.

Retail space Stulz menswear: 120 sqm.

Women's brands: Agho Donna, Basler, Boglioli Donna, Creenstone, Deha, Eterna, Flowers For Friends, Gardeur, Gran Sasso Donna, Hauber, Henry Cotton's, Michele, MYBC, Nadine H., Polo Sylt, The Swiss Label, Van Laack.

Men's brands: Baldessarini, Boglioli, Cellini, Dressler, Eterna, Hackett London, Henry Cotton's, Hiltl, Ign. Joseph, Jockey, Lodenfrey, Mabrun, Mastai Ferretti, Roda, Truzzi, Van Laack.

Shoes: Handmacher.

Accessories: Civello Cesare, Ellen Paulssen, Ernico Vernizzi, Falke, Laco, Passigatti, Roda, S&F, Seeberger, Shingora.

Pleasure and Life: Broste Copenhagen, books, Grüneberger, Market Grounds, Unterthurner Italy, Viani Feinkost, Wieser Wachau, WILK Gourmetgroup.

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170 LOOK&FEEL

In Its Sixth Generation August Pfüller / Frankfurt. The August Pfüller retail company, which has been family-owned for 130 years, continues to build on its long-standing tradition – with the exception of its approach to fashion.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: August Pfüller

Managing Director Benjamin Pfüller: "We don’t like to order the basics – that's not what we’re known for."

he new generation decided it was time to go upmarket. At the turn of the millennium, the two brothers Felix August and Benjamin August Pfüller took over the company from their parents. Felix Pfüller took on the children's fashion business, while Benjamin Pfüller assumed responsibility for the womenswear store, which is also located in Frankfurt's Goethestrasse. But they decided to charter a new course for the business, away from mid-level fashions, and gradually built up a more upscale product range.

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Progressive Thinking. Today, August Pfüller has become one of the

big names in German retailing, especially in children's fashions, and the womenswear business is hot on its heels. The modern interior design and innovative decor in the store and display windows certainly set the tone. Strenesse used to be the most exclusive brand in the product range. Today, the top-flight brands shaping the new image of this innovative store are Lanvin, Chloé, Céline, Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler. "We are committed to tradition in everything we do," says Benjamin Pfüller, "not just when it comes to fashion!" He travels extensively to discover rare gems like feminine retro-chic by Lena Hoschek, opulent evening dresses from Italy by Alexandra Rich, refreshingly fashionable creations by Jay Ahr from France and sequin embroidered tulle stretch dresses by Farah Khan from Malaysia.

"We don't like to order the basics," he says. "That's not what we're known for." August Pfüller is also highly ambitious when it comes to 112 style in progress

online sales, and for over a year now has been selling its merchandise via Fashionhub.de, a portal featuring a number of retailers. This has helped build his reputation: "Today, we can also carry brands that we didn't have before because we can refer customers to our online shop," says Pfüller.

Progressive thinking also characterizes his brother's children's clothing business, as well as the new annex for children's fashions at Frankfurt International Airport. Both brothers work independently, but share the same office. The chemistry is right, and together they strike the right balance between a traditional and a modern approach. "The demands placed on us have increased tremendously," he says, "but it's precisely this challenge that makes it so much fun for us."

August Pfüller. Goethestrasse 15-17, 60313 Frankfurt am Main/Germany, T 0049.69.13378060, www.august-pfueller.de Opening: November 1878, reopening following renovation: 1 March 2003.

Owners/Managing Directors: Benjamin August and Felix August Pfüller.

Staff: 7 full-time, 7 part-time. Retail space: 750 sqm. on three floors.

Womenswear: Alexander Wang, Badgley Mischka, Céline, Chloé, Diane von Fürstenberg, Isabel Marant, Jay Ahr, Lanvin, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marchesa, Michael Kors, Moncler, Proenza Schouler, Roberto Cavalli, Stella McCartney, Strenesse, Talbot Runhof, Thomas Wylde, Valentino Red. Accessories: Chloé, Codello, Faliero Sarti, Lanvin, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Mischa Lambert, Proenza Schouler, Regina, Reptile’s House, Roeckl, Sportmax.

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August Pf端ller is one of the top stores in German fashion retailing for children's clothing and womenswear.

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172 LOOK&FEEL

Stig P & Co recently got a makeover: Now shoppers can enjoy lots of light and a feeling of open space.

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The Local's Treasure Stig P & Co / Copenhagen. Tucked away in the Nørrebro district, this Copenhagen fashion shop is not one you just stumble on. But the locals who know it keep on coming back. Text: Pernille Formsgaard. Photos: Stig P & Co

Take a rest on the leather couch made by the retired founder of Stig P & Co.

hile the original Stig P is located in the epicentre of Copenhagen's shopping district, the follow up shop, Stig P & Co, is situated in Ravnsborggade in Nørrebro, Copenhagen's most multicultural and laid back area.

The street has long been known as the place to go if you're chasing antiques, but since Stig P & Co opened back in 2001, other shops have joined the fashion cavalry and the street now boasts a great mix of cafés and boutiques.

Inside the light, inviting shop, you can easily see that Stig P & Co embraces the street's history, decorating with things they got from their neighbours: An old lamp used for film sets, a Chinese porcelain doll, two orange plastic chairs with a '70s feel and other quirky details catch the eye and give the space a unique and warm feel. The shop has lots of regular customers – mostly locals passing by when trawling their 'hood.

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Family Spirit. The shop showcases a broad mix of upscale brands such as Sonia by Sonia Rykiel and budget-friendly brands like house made Stig P that excells in wardrobe basics.

The selection is generally varied, and you can find jewellery by Danish designer Maria Black, French elegance by Vanessa Bruno, '50s inspired underwear by Underprotection and an Australian cowboy hat on the shelves. Besides clothing, you can also treat yourself to erotic comics, books about street art, fashion and DIY-

projects, house made pillows and blankets along with nail polish, skin- and body care.

The original Stig P, which was founded in 1969, was named after its founder, Stig Pedersen. He's now retired, but still passes by the shop and offers chocolates to the employees. The responsibility for both shops is in the hands of his daughter, Signe Kjer, but his son is also close by. Just across the street from Stig P & Co, he runs a shop selling his world-famous brand Dico, and the shop next door, Stuff We Love, is a menswear shop run by Signe's husband. It certainly does run in the family.

Stig P & Co. Ravnsborggade 18, 2200 Copenhagen/Denmark, www.stigp.dk, blok14.dk Opening: 2001. Owner: Signe Kjer. Manager: Melissa Azari. Staff: 10.

Retail space: 130 sqm.

Women's fashion: 5 Preview, Acne, By Zoé, Calvin Klein, Carhartt, Coatpeople, Emu, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Filippa K, Michael Kors, Munderingskompagniet, Muubaa, Rock' n Blue, See by Chloé, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, Stig P, Storm & Marie, Underprotection, Vanessa Bruno Athé.

Accessories: 5 preview, Aussie Bush, Carhartt, Coatpeople, Fashinology, Lommé, Maria Black, Sakdidet, See by Chloé, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, Stetson, Vanessa Bruno Athé, Yvonne Konné.

Shoes: Eagle, Noé, Spring Court, Wolverine.

Cosmetics: Malin + Goetz, O.P.I. Nail Lacquer.

Miscellaneous: Books, Stig P blankets and pillows.

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174 LOOK&FEEL

Carte Blanche for Beauty ANSH46 / Rotterdam. The Rotterdam fashion store ANSH46 is a combination of effortless style and creative thinking.

Fate decided that fashion entrepreneurs Wouter Leenders and Kelly Erentreich should move into their current location.

It was a great move. They present their high segment women's labels in a beautiful split-level interior and in the large garden where people can unwind and reflect on the art of fashion. Text: Miranda Hoogervorst. Photos: ANSH46

Where hairdressers once plied their trade: Cutting Edge Fashion

t all started at the Rotterdam Art Academy: Here Kelly and Wouter met and developed their idea for a fashion store of their own. By the end of 2009 they had everything ready for the opening of ANSH46, but suddenly their desired shop space was taken off the market. A former hair salon in the Mauritsweg, just around the corner of the popular Witte de Withstraat, turned out to be an even better space for their store. They fell in love with the split-levels and the large garden.

Two interior designer friends got carte blanche for doing the interior.

"We didn't even see sketches, we just discussed the basic style and let them do their thing," says Wouter. "They made everything themselves, It turned out great."

The basement and second store level are light, minimalistic and white with accents of rough wood and the third level has darker, richer materials and colours. The wooden cash register, original lamps and racks all help create the serene and welcoming atmosphere. In the garden Wouter and Kelly offered a high tea with an Alexander Wang collection presentation. "We have a large table with nice seats and there's space for an open fire. It's very quiet, you can't hear any city noises."

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Love, Soul and Character. ANSH stands for another shop and 46 refers to the country telephone code for Sweden. ANSH46 sells 112 style in progress

quite a few Scandinavian brands. Wouter loves the Nordic style: "What I love about Scandinavians is that they pay so much attention to detail. Even a simple thing like a cup of coffee is full of style. And it all seems so effortless!" Wouter and Kelly mix well-known high fashion labels with smaller, sometimes unknown labels. "We love to discover new designers, but it's impossible to build a healthy store on just small labels, because not all of them are consistent. You need some more commercial labels too. But we are not afraid of buying unknown labels. Whether that's smart or not I don't know, but I do know that we just want to fall in love with a design. Anyone with 100,000 euros can go to Paris and buy some nice labels. But we want a collection with soul and character."

ANSH46. Mauritsweg 51, 3012 JW Rotterdam/The Netherlands, T 0031 10 2339182, www.ansh46.com Opening: 26 March 2010. Owners: Kelly Erentreich, Wouter Leenders.

Retail space: 150 sqm. Staff: 2 full-time.

Labels: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, Anne Louise Landelius, Anne Valerie Hash, Butterflysoulfire, Camilla Skovgaard, Husam el Odeh, Minimarket, MM6 x Opening Ceremony, Rad Hourani, Ready to Fish, Rick Owens Lilies, T by Alexander Wang.

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Where the architecture's just as exciting as the brand selection: ANSH46

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176 EDITOR'S LETTER /// ABOUT US

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Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif, Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Managing editor Nicolette Scharpenberg nicolette.scharpenberg@ucm-verlag.at

Who's Let You Down?

By Stephan Huber, Publisher style in progress

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ver the past weeks and months, I've often heard the following amazing, if not shocking, statement: "I want to be independent of the banks!"

I'm not talking about small savers who no longer receive interest payments and have been infected by the fear of hyperinflation.

Nor am I referring to ATTAC activists as part of a general criticism of the system.

No, I'm referring to small and mediumsized companies, dedicated players in the free market economy who no longer see banks as reliable partners to finance their ongoing business transactions.

Same song, another verse: What chance do today's young (and perhaps not so young) entrepreneurs have of becoming independent fashion retailers and of receiving the necessary financing for this step? From a bank? Virtually none whatsoever – even if they have a brilliant concept, a serious business plan and can prove that they have years of experience and the necessary expertise and contacts in the industry – and even if they put up some of the money themselves. Indeed, they're not sitting across from a qualified, helpful consultant and partner who has examined all the angles and, based on this information, will decide whether the bank is prepared to take the risk because he, as a decision-maker, 211 style in progress

believes in these bold people and their concept. The standardised computer program that ultimately decides doesn't have the ability to believe.

And it doesn't form its own opinion, either.

These bold people who are willing to venture the risk of free enterprise, including the risk of failing, are not even given an opportunity to fail because the standardised system says NO. Money only goes to those who have money. That's the reality today. In other words, the banks are refusing to pave the way for growth and innovation. I can't imagine how much talent, courage and valuable economic potential dries up due to this system of refusal. Private investors are an alternative – sometimes more often than we realise. But they can't be a replacement.

I'll gladly say it again: Cities without a lively, diverse retail culture (across all sectors) are dying cities. A system that not only fails to promote new entrepreneurs, but actually tends to stand in their way because it no longer thinks and acts in an entrepreneurial manner, is a system that kills cities. And that's a scandal both from an economic and a social perspective. stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at

Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Elisabeth Bärnthaler Sabine Berlipp Petra Engelke Pernille Formsgaard Jeanette Fuchs Miranda Hoogervorst Claudia Janka Ina Köhler Kay-Alexander Plonka Maria Prock Sonja Ragaller Nicoletta Schaper Alana Wallace Photographers+Illustrators Yorick Carroux Sabine Liewald Stefan Milev Bernhard Musil Anna Rabbow Ben Wolf Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English editor Elizabeth d'Elsa English translations Word Connection Business Translation Service Printing Laber Druck, Oberndorf Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627 BLZ 45010

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