style in progress 4.11 EN

SPRING SUMMER 12 # 4.2011

Money Pumps. Fashion Stores Beat Out Shoe Retailers /// Women's Premium Jeans. May The Best Bum Win /// Expensive – So What? Rising Prices as a Motor for Quality /// London Calling. The Vibrant East End ///

style in progress wo-men’s fashion

Christopher de Vos and Peter Pilotto

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008 EDITORIAL

The Big Picture and its Parts

Studio visit in London: style in progress visits Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos in their London atelier.

Photo: Giles Price

Welcome to these lines...

What defines a big designer? Is it their reputation, how their personality is perceived – or simply the power of their designs? In the case of Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, we know for sure: Their creations provide enough evidence to show that these two are among the very best. And what's so special about this designer duo is that they are so very downto-earth. style in progress editor Alana Wallace captured the atmosphere perfectly in her interview – as well as coaxing a whole lot of interesting info from the duo (the Longview, page 034).

Striving for greatness, in a purely financial sense, is the topic of Thesy Kness-Bastaroli's report. The experienced economic journalist examines why Italian luxury and fashion groups are increasingly being drawn to the world's stock exchanges (Italy's Luxury Companies: From the Catwalk to the World of Finance, page 060).

How decisions in the fashion industry are influenced by financial factors is also illustrated in the salon interview by Editor-in-Chief Stephan Huber. "A T-shirt will get 20 to 25 percent more expensive," states Markus Funder (page 076) – and based on current evidence, he appears to be absolutely right. The fact that cotton prices are nosediving just a few weeks later is not just a matter of irony. Instead, it is a perfect example of how today's fashion industry is only part of the big picture.

Thinking big without becoming big: that's the attitude of the organisers of London-based menswear exhibition Jacket Required. Their nice little ordering event is the exact opposite of the explosive show that we just witnessed in Berlin. The fact that the notion of "small is beautiful" should find fertile ground in a mega-metropolis like London is the central theme of this special event, which we are dedicating to the city (London Calling, page 088).

What remains important when catastrophes take place such as the ones in Japan this past March? (Quest for Change – Japan's Lessons from 3/11, page 068). This is a question certain to shake up some basic principles in the world of fashion. What does consumption even mean in the face of such unfathomable events? How important is a new product bought purely for pleasure when people elsewhere are lacking the bare essentials? This is a rare opportunity to experience quality in a whole new way. Show designer Seishi Tanaka reports: "If you have to walk more than ten kilometres, you will know the difference between quality shoes and cheap shoes."

It's no coincidence that you will be reading about shoes more than once in this issue of style in progress. Industry expert Karolina Landowski explains the reasons in her article (If the Shoe Pinches..., page 042): When it comes to setting trends, the fashion trade has always been one step ahead of its shoe counterpart. However, there is always an exception to the rule, as illustrated by Peter Herkenrath, a trend-setting shoe retailer and one of the discussion partners in the style in progress Fashion Discourse (page 084).

Our advice for you this season? Feel good about being part of the big picture – and make sure that exceptions continue to confirm the rule. We hope you enjoy this issue.

Your style in progress Team

411 style in progress

010 CONTENT

034 At home throughout the world, homebase in London: Designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos.

048 Premium women's jeans are back in the limelight with sexy cuts and new labels.

THE LONGVIEW 034 "Production Is the Biggest Challenge" style in progress talks with designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos CONCEPT 042 If the Shoe Pinches Do fashion stores make better shoe shops?

048 What Women Want Time for a new and feminine blue 052 Skinnier Than Skinny California coolness meets timeless design: Hudson Jeans 054 Modest Luxury Blue Blood shakes off the shadows of the past 056 In the Year of the Rabbit Witty Knitters focuses on quality and fantasy

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084 Rightly so! Shoes take the leading role as trend motor and in sales.

058 A Passion for Fabric Textile handcrafts from the Swiss Textile Collection 060 Italy's Luxury Companies From the catwalk to the world of finance 064 Classy, New (K)nitpickers Set for expansion: Malo 066 Mister Black Lauren Lesly Remy talks about his Ralph Lauren addiction 068 Quest for Change Japan's lessons from 3/11 OPINION 076 "A T-Shirt will get 20 to 25 Per Cent More Expensive" Roundtable discussion on raw material prices 084 Fashion Discourse Focus on shoes

012 CONTENT

088 The British fashion industry is alive and kicking with a strong feeling for being British.

120 Relaxed, but sensual: Staged by Marcel Gonzales-Ortiz.

128 Romantic flowered prints, eclectic and feminine from Photographer Sabine Liewald.

FASHION & INSPIRATION 088 London Calling The inspiration of the city and its fashion

LOOK & FEEL 138 The Duo from Sihlporte Apartment, Z端rich

089 Old Brands, New Tricks Britishness as the sales hit

140 L. A. Calling Mondrean, Wien

092 London Retail Rocks The East End's trendy shops

142 Just Don't Open a Normal Store First, Frankfurt

096 Phoenix from the Flames Why people in the know now order in London 098 Fashion Report Street Style London 112 Lower Your Eyes: Shoe Trends What to expect for spring/summer 2012 120 Che Piace Beauty is not what's beautiful, but what you like 128 In Full Blossom Bye to cuteness, hello sex appeal

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Standards 008 Editorial The Big Picture and its Parts 018 Shortcuts 106 Selected 136 Retail News 144 Editor's Letter Recognition versus Ignorance 144 About us

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18

SHORTCUTS Vitali Klitschko looks good in elegant attire.

600 Woolrich Arctic parkas seriously sought after in five exclusive colours.

Windsor STRONG PERSONALITIES

Since January Strellson and Windsor, both brands of the Holy Fashion Group, have been kitting out the boxing world champions Vitali and Wladimir Klitschko, who are now acting as the brand's celebrity ambassadors. Jens H旦llbein, Windsor's Public Relations Manager, says: "Windsor is a combination of premium quality tailoring and the finest materials. This perfection, crowned with individual casualness and subtle contrasts, finishes off the modern smart/casual look. The look perfectly compliments the two strong personalities and enables them to be well dressed on official occasions." In July Windsor will be offered to retailers in its brand-new 600 square metre showroom in D端sseldorf's Kaiserswerther Strasse 183. The Windsor brand currently operates 16 mono-stores worldwide, which will be expanded in the next few years. www.windsor.de

C.P. Company/Jaeger-LeCoultre 80-YEAR-OLD STYLE ICON PROVIDES INSPIRATION FOR A JACKET

Changeability is one of the characteristics that makes C.P. Company an internationally successful fashion label. This is proven once again by the current collection's limited edition Goggle Jacket by Enzo Fusco.

At July's Pitti Immagine Uomo trade fair in Florence, it was presented together with the current Jaeger-LeCoultre collection. The reason: The jacket design was inspired by the cult-status watch Reverso from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which celebrated its 80th birthday at Pitti Immagine Uomo. In turn, JaegerLeCoultre also pays tribute to C.P. Company: with a special model in a case decorated with an engraving of the C.P. Company logo. mwww.jaeger-lecoultre.com, www.cpcompany.com

C.P. Company surprises everyone with its Jaeger-LeCoutre cooperation.

411 style in progress

14 oz. & Woolrich ARCTIC PARKA: LIMITED EDITION

The skill of reinventing a classic in an exciting style is something that comes easy to Karl-Heinz M端ller and his team from the Berlin-based 14 oz. store. It's also a skill appreciated by brands such as Woolrich, which launched a limited edition Arctic Parka in time for the Berlin Bread & Butter. This limited edition of 600 coats is available in five exclusive colours and is made of water-repellent and windproof Byrd Cloth. The consecutive numbering makes each parka unique. "With the limited special edition in five fantastic new colours, we are joining with Woolrich to acknowledge the great popularity of the Arctic Parka at 14 oz.," states M端ller, owner and Managing Director of 14 oz. www.14oz-berlin.com, www.woolrich.com

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20 SHORTCUTS

Cividini BACK AGAIN

The business basis for a relaunch is in place. Piero Cividini, who earned himself the title of "knitting magician," has completely restructured his knitwear label of the same name. Following years of cooperation with the MC Adams Production Company, he is once again taking over the management of his own company. The design studio in Bergamo, which is also the company headquarters, has been enlarged. New employees have joined the team and new production and distribution partners brought on board – particularly for the company's second segment, the fabric collection.

The goal: higher standards for processing, stricter quality controls, more efficient production processes and good value for money in order to ultimately double the total sales volume in the coming five years. www.cividini.com

Shoe with the characteristic Lacoste design.

Lacoste/Roland Garros A LOYAL PARTNERSHIP

Game, set, match! Lacoste and the Roland Garros French Open have reason to celebrate this year: They have 40 years of a successful partnership to look back on. Both have shared an enthusiasm for perfect performance, elegance, fashionable sophistication, innovation and functionality since 1971. Lacoste and Roland Garros, the fashion and sportwear brand named after the French Open event, will offer a joint collection with clothing, leather accessories and shoes for women, men and kids as well as Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 this year for the third time in a row. The collection is available at all Lacoste and Roland Garros stores as well as online shops. A limited edition of polo shirts and T-shirts for men and women was made especially for the 40th anniversary, not this year's anniversary. www.lacoste.com, www.storerolandgarros.com

Perio Cividini demonstrates his creative talent with his spring/summer collection 2011.

Scholl STEPPING FORWARD

At the beginning of this year, the London-based global firm Reckitt Benckiser acquired Scholl footwear, which boasts over 100 years of corporate tradition. The acquisition process will be completed in late August. Scholl has already relocated its headquarters from Maintal to Mannheim, where Achim Leidel, Country Manager of DACH Scholl Footwear, manages the company. "We continue to have sole responsibility for the DACH business and are looking forward to working together with a global partner like Reckitt Beckinser who can help us quickly move the business forward," he said about the takeover. In January 2012 the Italian Scholl Footwear headquarters will relocate from Milan to Piacenza. www.myscholl.de

Berlin Press Days are turning into German Press Days.

German Press Days ACTIVE ACROSS GERMANY

Scholl was taken over by Reckitt Benckiser at the beginning of the year.

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Berlin Press Day, which was founded in 2008, is an example of a successful cooperation: Berlin's most important PR agencies invite fashion editors to view the latest collections in the showrooms and at events. From October 2011 Berlin's success model will become a phenomenon across Germany: Agencies from Hamburg and Munich will be invited to take part in German Press Days. In addition, the biannual event will be extended from two to three days. One of the initiators, Kerstin Geffert of Silk Relations, says: "The aim is to offer journalists a comprehensive package."

The first German Press Days will feature a special highlight in October: In addition to the official dinner, there will be a charity gala. www.germanpressdays.de

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22 SHORTCUTS

Dear Cashmere MORE FASHION!

This summer CBY wins everyone over with down vests in a variety of colours.

Dear Cashmere has switched into full creative gear! The label has timed its spring/summer 2012 delivery dates for the period from November to January to make them even more retailer-friendly.

Fashion highlights of the latest expanded collection include headturning colours like bright pink, turquoise and canary yellow, handknitted cashmere styles with a fishnet look, colour blocking and cheerful polka dots. Building on last season, it has created a sixpiece hand-knit collection in collaboration with the home accessories label Studio Roam. This luxurious line of pullovers cost 198 euros wholesale, and cardigans run for 172 euros.

Dear Cashmere now serves approximately 200 customers in the upmarket segment, primarily located in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The latest market is the US, where the label is now sold via The Hive Showroom in New York. www.dear-cashmere.com, www.bestbodylines.eu

CBY COLOURFUL EYECATCHERS

Down in Summertime? "Yes!" says the Italian brand CBY, which is part of the Cinelli Group. Why? The crazy weather of the past few years has made us yearn for warm clothes in summer. And it goes without saying that the collection garments have to be particularly light, practical and colourful. With its Kiss range of vests, CBY is responding to the desire of retail stores and consumers. The vests are exclusively lined with down, which makes them real lightweights. At less than 200 g. They can be folded up and stored. Vests are available in yellow, pink, red, coral, mint green and light blue and wholesale at 72 euros. www.c-by.it

Fashion, innovation and vibrant colours: Dear Cashmere is marketed by the Best Bodylines agency.

HTC TABLECLOTH GET-UP

Andrea Brá and the team from HTC have a surprise in store for their 2012 spring/summer collection: a special edition jacket and blazer made of vintage tablecloths from the legendary Chateau Marmont. The owner and brains behind the label says: "We had a chance to buy 1,000 tablecloths, which were over 50 years old, and to handcraft this special edition. The tablecloths are individually dyed, and there are eight vibrant colours." The congenial Brá explains the selling price of approx. 250 euros as follows: "This isn't about earning a lot of money – We just want our customers to enjoy the products as much as we do." The limited edition can be ordered in Germany through Agentur Ventrella, and in Austria and Switzerland from welcome to my room. International customers can obtain it from the showroom in Milan. www.htclosangeles.com

411 style in progress

For the first time in spring/summer 2012 HTC presents a blazer and jacket edition of vintage tablecloths.

Baroness Lucie Doraline Elisabeth Hedwig von Alten, looking danger in the eye. w w w.habsburg.co.at

24 SHORTCUTSAGENCIES

welcome to my room ROOM FOR MORE

Urban, cool and edgy – that's how Christian Obojes' second Salzburg fashion agency welcome to my room is positioning itself. The agency, which is managed by Theresa Steinbacher, has now followed room with a view and relocated to an even larger area inside a former printing house. "We're showing exciting niche collections here, which reflect the big-city flair of Paris, Milan and New York," says Obojes.

A new highlight of welcome to my room is the denim label Astrid Jane from Nashville, Tennessee, which is currently preparing to take on the European market. It was created in collaboration with Sights Denim Systems, a US premium denim producer, and is characterised by topquality materials with high-end finishes and superior stretch comfort, developed especially for the label. The look is clean and reserved, targeting denim customers who know their stuff. The cuts range from skinny and straight to boot cut and flared, and selling prices range between 189 and 249 euros.

Accessories are also becoming increasingly important in premium fashion retail, a trend that the agency is addressing with its new addition White Valentine. Behind this jewellery line is Italy's largest silver producer, which has created its very own collection called White Valentine: cool, but with a feminine twist, as can be seen in the three silver chains attached together by one coloured pearl. The jewellery retails between 119 and 499 euros and is available at short notice. The belt label HTC also continues to perform well, having successfully added shoes to its range last season. For the 2012 spring/summer collection, the focus will be on colours such as bright green, yellow and red for washed leather. These are just some of the innovations that visitors of welcome to my room can look forward to. The number one topic this season is the new building that room with a view and welcome to my room are moving into at the end of July. All the brands of both agencies will be housed on three floors. The headquarters sets new standards with extensive remodelling and design."We don't want to create a monument to ourselves; we just want to offer our customers the service of having both agencies in one place," says Obojes.

Labels: 7 for all mankind, Astrid Jane, Aglini, Claudio Cutuli, Denham, Dirtee Hollywood, Dolfie, Friendly Hunting, Giorgio Brato/WLG, House of Gods, HTC, Just Yummie, Lauren Moshi, MU, New Balance, PF Flyers, Roque Ilaria Nistri, Silver Jeans, Simeon Farrar, Swiss Criss, White Valentine welcome to my room, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, www.welcometomyroom.at

Best of 19 introduces a promising new acquisition, the T-shirt label Market.

Best of 19 INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS

After opening one showroom in New York last year, Gabriele Frantzen has now begun working with the Concepter PR agency to promote her jewellery in the United States. "We have a lot going on right now internationally. We want to push forward expansion and concentrate on strong labels," says the agency owner. Claudia Mahler, PR & Brand Consulting, deals with PR in Germany, Austria and Switzerland from her Zurich base. New additions to the portfolio include the T-shirt label Market, a young sub-line from Rebecca Beeson that is sold in top trendy shops in Los Angeles. The casual styles wholesale for between 17 and 22 euros; production and materials are made in the United States. Frantzen is expecting orders for the new season to be brisk.

"The good sales due to the weather and the limited distribution during the last season mean we can hope for a good start," she says.

Labels: Gabriele Frantzen, Juliepark, Love Quotes, Market, Muks, Utzon Best of 19, 80335 Munich/Germany, www.bestof19.de

Vestitus GmbH CLASSIC COMEBACK

welcome to my room and room with a view is presenting new acquisitions such as Astrid Jane (right) and White Valentine in their new 1,000 square metre house.

411 style in progress

The Düsseldorf-based agency Vestitus is bringing an old name back to the portfolio for the coming order season.

Vestitus had distributed the Italian premium trouser label Metradamo 20 years ago. Now there has been a complete relaunch of the label, which is positioned in the classic-elegant, sporty womenswear segment. "We are especially looking forward to the co-operation with Metradamo, a label with history, which will offer a complete look that is new and innovative," says Managing Director Peter Härtel.

Metradamo is distributed by Vestitus in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

Sales experts are optimistic about the next round of ordering: "Customers Italian premium trouser brand are looking for individual style, and our Metradomo is moving back to products are in high demand at the Vestitus GmbH. moment. We're moving away from the major brands and the logo circus, and going back to good taste."

Vestitus expects significant growth in its sales volume for the spring/ summer 2012 with products like Herno, Jacob Cohen and Santoni.

Labels: Della Ciana Cashmere, Henry Beguelin, Herno, Jacob Cohen, Lardini, Metradamo, Olivieri, Santoni Vestitus GmbH, 40221 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.vestitus.eu

26 SHORTCUTSAGENCIES

Gabriela Kofler SERVICE WITH A CAPITAL

For the coming round of orders, Gabriela Kofler's new agency is introducing an interesting newcomer. Following his successful jersey collection, the former Schiesser designer Heiko Storz is launching a new range of high-quality ladies' blouses, which will be presented for the first time ever at the Premium trade fair in Berlin. Also new to the portfolio of the Austrian, is the French denim collection Notify. "Time and again, it seems that the most popular collections with my customers are those that are authentic."

They want and they need consistency, sustainability and the Gabriela Kofler welcomes two new best service," says Kofler who collections in her agency. sees her greatest strength as being the close contact to her customers. "We want to make sure that the time the buyers spend in our showroom is as pleasant as possible and we also want to generate a positive mood, without any pressure whatsoever." According to her, colourful garments that are sporty yet feminine are what will be featured this spring/summer 2012 season. Chinos are available in all kinds of designs and are teamed with silk or cotton blouses. Kofler is expecting large growth in the field of summer knitwear: "The stores always sell a lot of garments in this sector."

Labels: Amorph Berlin, Arma Leder, Crick it, Drakewood, Exit Brooklyn, Giulu, Heiko Storz, Herzensangelegenheit, I Heart, Notify, Max Tesutti, Scholl, Walk in the Park, Wandelei Gabriela Kofler, 5020 Salzburg, Austria www.gabrielakofler.at

Elke Wirichs: "I love to nurture small labels and it doesn't bother me a bit taking on such tasks."

Agentur Elke Wirichs THE SPECIALIST

Specially selected collections from Italy define the portfolio of the Eccli agency.

Conex – Andreas Eccli ITALIAN PASSION

A very special new addition for men and women, the top Italian fashion collection Aspesi, has come to the portfolio of Andreas and Elke Eccli's Salzburg-based agency, Conex, which specialises in high-quality labels.

Alberto Aspesi founded the brand as a shirt collection in 1969 and by 1980 had developed it into a total look collection with a focus on coats and jackets. He has an almost unique understanding of the art of minimalism and how to avoid the superfluous – even to the point of omitting any visible logos. The collection is characterised by close-fitting cuts, innovative materials and good value. "After years of distributing Moncler in Austria, we were reluctant to add just any collection to our portfolio; we were consciously seeking a brand with a strong identity. In Aspesi, we've found our perfect partner," says Andreas Eccli.

Another new addition is the Italian dress line a.dress from Padua – a small, fine jersey dress collection characterised by outstanding quality and prints, with a wholesale price range of 65 to 75 euros. "It's important to us that we can also offer convincing collections in the medium price range," explains Elke Eccli. Other new additions: The Italian polo shirt, top and sweatshirt collection Eleventy, which is already found in Austria's most important stores after just one year, has added shirts and accessories to its range and is staying true to Italy as a production location for these new product groups. The portfolio also includes a selection of Italian leather garments by Daniela Pancheri, who is known for her winter cashmere caps under the Danielapi label. In terms of personnel, Conex has a new reinforcement in industry expert Elfi Reiter, who will manage the company's American Vintage and Ugg Australia accounts.

Labels: a.dress, American Vintage, Aspesi, Brunello Cucinelli, Daniela Panchieri, Danielapi, Eleventy, Iris von Arnim, Pamela Henson, Post & Co., qcqc, Ugg Australia Modeagentur Conex, Andreas Eccli, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, www.conex.at

With her Munich agency, Elke Wirichs is considered a specialist in premium womenswear. Rest assured, she's got some exciting collections in store for this season. "I have to be 100 per cent convinced about a product," she says. "Without that enthusiasm I don't think you can change much in our industry."

New features in her portfolio include the colourful snaps from Amsterdam-based label Noosa, which are handcrafted in Peru and can be snapped onto armbands and belts. Yerse from Spain is a commercial collection that concentrates on tops, with many washed cotton finishes and lavish detailing.

The shoes from Hasbeens of Sweden are noted for their handcrafting and use of natural materials. One particularly luxurious feature: All wooden soles are carved from a single piece of wood. Additional new acquisitions for the agency include the feminine jerseys from Cottin of Germany, and the Rain Collection from Ilse Jacobsen of Denmark.

Since 2005 Wirichs has acted as the general agency for Germany for the Italian collection add, and the partnership has been highly successful for both parties. "Maurizio Cittone of add offered me a very big opportunity with this a few years ago," she says. "We worked very hard together and we've achieved a lot." That currently adds up to 300 customers in the German market alone – customers who appreciate the highly feminine look of the label's jackets, as well as their light weight.

Labels: add, Cottin, Ilse Jacobsen, Noosa Amsterdam, Polo Sylt, Swedish Hasbeens, Yerse Elke Wirichs Agentur München, 80805 Munich/Germany, www.elke-wirichs.com 411 style in progress

28 SHORTCUTSFAIRS

Prêt à Porter Paris PARISIAN ALLIANCE

CPD Signatures is bringing out jeans and sportswear, young fashion and new womenswear in their own separate divisions.

Prêt à Porter Paris and Who's next have joined forces for the future.

"The new synergies will further strengthen the international ranking of Paris," says Mayouri Sengchanh of Exalis, the German liaison office for Prêt à Porter Paris. "Who's next stands for urban fashion, while the strength of Prêt à Porter Paris is in its established womenswear collections. The fusion will especially breathe new life into the creative part."

With Who's next, Première Classe and Paris sur Mode trade shows, Comexposium and WSN Développement presents itself as the leading company in France for fashion events, and has strengthened this position through the acquisition of SODES, which is responsible for Prêt à Porter Paris. The resulting changes will take effect in 2012.

In September Prêt à Porter Paris will present collections in the Heart of Pret and New Talents sections, to help visitors orient themselves better.

A wide array of accessories will be shown in the lower level of Hall 7.

A trend forum and catwalk shows round out the exhibition's offerings.

3 to 6 September 2011, www.pretparis.com

CPD THE FINISHING TOUCHES

The trade fair format CPD Signatures of the Igedo Company, which was first launched in February 2011, is now being given the finishing touches. As a result of the previous year's positive responses, the Moods area, which focuses on exhibitors from the jeans and sportswear sectors, young fashion and new womenswear, will continue to have its own space. "The positive reactions showed us that we are on the right track with a segment especially for commercial young fashion brands," says Sales Consultant Günther Sommer. A total of 410 exhibitors have registered for the coming event, including 60 newcomers in Moods. One important change: The event will now be held from Saturday 23 to Monday 25 July 2011. This gives the retailers the opportunity to do business all weekend long and is particularly useful for international visitors. The show concept has also been expanded. Exhibitors are given slots to present their collection on stage to the trade fair visitors. Choreograffiti from Cologne is in charge of the shows.

23 to 25 July 2011, ww.cpd-signatures.com, www.igedo.com

Prêt à Porter Paris and Who's next are forming a productive alliance.

Munich Fabric Start BOOKED OUT SINCE APRIL

The 31st Munich Fabric Start, which is being held from 6 to 8 September 2011, was booked out once again just 12 weeks after the previous event at Munich's MOC. Around 800 international exhibitors will attend the event. The trade fair management regards the event as a hub for innovations and an informative and essential trade fair for the industry.

Due to the huge throng of exhibitors, increasing numbers of visitors (an eight per cent increase from the previous year) and positive economic forecasts for the entire industry, Trade Fair Manager Wolfgang Klinder is feeling very optimistic about the coming event. "There are many reasons to believe that the industry will experience a four to five per cent rise in sales volume this year," he says as he refers to the latest surveys and studies. This September's event will introduce several innovations: The rush is on: Munich Fabric Start is booked out for September.

There will be a new TrendLab in the entrance area of Hall 3, which will present leading trend agencies and magazines. The Asian Salon will be given a separate ingredient area for selected Asian exhibitors. Organic Selection and Eco Village, which offer sustainability and ecology services, will be connected to the Blue Zone. Holding the trade fair on two dates seems to be a wise choice. View, the exclusive press event that took place on 28 and 29 June at Prinzregentenplatz in Munich, has established itself as the first inspiration and information platform in the run-up to the main event.

6. bis 8. September 2011, www.munichfabricstart.com

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30 SHORTCUTSFAIRS

GDS PROGRAM EXPANDED

Organisers of the GDS trade show for shoes in D端sseldorf are expecting about 840 exhibitors from 37 countries at the next event. The exhibitors will be showing new looks and trends for spring/summer 2012. Areas such as the White Cube will show premium labels; sportswear, denim brands, and design newcomers will be present in the halls. Brands like Replay, Converse, G-Star, Shabbies Amsterdam, van Bommel and Stuart Weitzman cover a broad cross-section of the market. GDS is partnering with the team from the Idego Company for the upcoming autumn edition of the trade show. The Igedo Company will be responsible for the fashion shows for the shoe trade show, which will be presented for the first time in their own show tent on the fairgrounds. Trend seminars, events and all kinds of information about the shoe market complete the offerings at the trade show.

7 to 9 September 2011, www.gds-online.de

The GDS fashion shows are being held for the first time in their own tent on the fairgrounds.

Munich Fashion WoMen MORE VISITORS THANKS TO TOP LOCATION

Munich's order trade fair Fashion WoMen is situated in the city centre, at MTC in Schwabing. From 13 to 16 August, for the second year running, it will present the industry's entire range of ladies' wear and menswear. The upcoming event will be exhibited over an area of 7,000 square metres in an open-plan hall, similar to Munich's MOC. There will also be a change in the parking situation: A new car park routing system will provide 1,500 new parking spaces directly in front of the building.

Munich's last Fashion WoMen had around 200 exhibitors and 750 collections. Aline Schade, Senior Sales Manager of Munichfashion WoMen Project Management, lists newcomer brands such as Blugirl and Kenzo. "We try to offer all buyers the perfect order platform for German-speaking countries.

We're becoming more and more international, with a focus on the Benelux countries, France, Scandinavia and Eastern Europe, in particular Russia," she says.

13 to 16 August 2011, www.munichfashioncompany.de

The Supreme in D端sseldorf is already fully booked since May. Berlin's star designer Michael Michalsky will participate again.

Supreme BOOKED OUT

The best location and an international range: Munich Fashion WoMen in August.

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D端sseldorf's order trade fair Supreme, which will be held for the third time at the end of July, announced in May that it's booked out. From 23 to 26 July, in Hall B1 on Benningsen Platz, around 300 collections will be presented on two floors, including brands such as John Smedley, Aeronautica Militare, Tolani and Missoni Shoes. "We're booked out.

That's why we have such a long waiting list. If we get even more interested exhibitors in the next few weeks, we'll rent a third floor in B1," said Aline Schade, Senior Sales Manager munichfashion.company GmbH, before the event. One of the reasons for the success of the young trade fair is undoubtedly the central location of B1, which was arranged by Aline Schade und Verena Malta from Supreme, and is near the showroom mile on Kaiserswerther Strasse. "Supreme is our second successful crowd-puller following our main trade fair, Munichfashion WoMen, which we founded in 2007. D端sseldorf is the perfect location for our order platform. Here people are earning money and making lots of orders. We're very happy," says Schade.

23 to 26 July 2011, www.munichfashioncompany.de

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Showroom D眉sseldorf 路 23. - 25. Jul 2 011 Hot 1 路 19. - 21. Jul 2011 | Hot 2 路 15. - 16. Aug 2011

32 SHORTCUTSFAIRS

Le Cuir Ă Paris LEATHER, MAN'S BEST FRIEND

Congratulations: At this year's upcoming event, the trade fair for leather and fur will celebrate its tenth anniversary.

To mark the occasion, ten designers will present a specially crafted article of clothing to honour the leather trade fair, which is considered the highest quality event of its kind.

Over 11,000 visitors attended Le Cuir last September with 60 per cent from foreign countries, including Italy, the UK, Germany and the USA. This September, in addition to large numbers of exhibitors, the trade fair will feature diverse extra events, including the presentations "Leather, Man's Best Friend," a retro perspective, and "Easy Leather," focusing on the versatility of this material, and Eco Leather.

The trade fair takes place in conjunction with the Première Vision Pluriel and has been condensed to three days instead of the usual four days. 20 to 22 September 2011, www.lecuiraparis.com

Chic, the Chinese fashion accessories fair, will stage Chic Young Blood in September.

Chic NEW CONCEPT FOR URBANWEAR

The leather and fur fair is celebrating its tenth anniversary.

Chic, the Chinese trade fair for fashion and accessories, is launching its first ever young fashion spin-off in autumn of 2011. Chic Young Blood is the name of the event which will be held from 27 to 29 September 2011. Around 100 international sport and lifestyle brands are expected to attend and will be exhibiting their wares in various areas such as Sport & Street, Denim Force, Tasty Must-Haves and Urban Soul. The concept aims to combine business with fun. The chosen venue is the National Agricultural Exhibition Center, a monumental building from the '60s, which is situated in the middle of Beijing. There are plans for a 10,000 square metre exhibition area. Because the event is planned as a lifestyle event, dance, music and games will play an important role.

Chen Dapeng, Chic's organiser, is planning further restructuring to satisfy the rise in demand of foreign participants some of whom are unable to attend this time due to lack of space. Aspersi, the Spanish children's association, is already planning a greater involvement of its brands at the next Chic. In future, the Brazilian fashion association Abit is also planning to take part in order to get a piece of this interesting and potentially promising market. The next Chic event will be held from 26 to 29 March 2012. www.chic-online.com.cn, www.chicyoungblood.com

125 exhibitors took part in Novo Mania, which took place in March.

Novo Mania SHANGHAI AS A TRADE FAIR LOCATION

In Shanghai the signs point to expansion. Novo Mania CEO Alan Fang and Jodi Yang, Managing Directors of the fledgling Chinese trade fair, held for the second time from 9 to 11 March 2011, report 125 highly satisfied exhibitors, including some of the top brands in the jeans and sportswear segment.

In addition to Calvin Klein, Superdry, G-Star and Tom Tailor, exhibitors such as Replay and Levi's are taking part. China's booming fashion market and the rising consumer potential of the relatively young middle class make it attractive for European brands, according to Fang. Because large multi-brand retailers have been the exception up till now, and franchise companies have dominated the retail landscape, the fair has been an information platform and networking opportunity for placing orders. For the upcoming event in March 2012 the makers are planning a move to a new exhibition area, since the fair is now bursting at the seams with its present 14,000 square metre space. www.novomania.com.cn

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034 LONGVIEW

Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, the design duo behind the label Peter Pilotto.

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LONGVIEW 035

"Production Is The Biggest Challenge" Manufacture poses problems for young designers with small production lines, as breakthrough design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos are well aware. They struggled to find success for the Peter Pilotto label in Antwerp, so moved to London where they caught the attention of the British Fashion Council and open minded British buyers. The designers haven't looked back, and their burgeoning label is now in the fortunate position of outgrowing its small-scale manufacturers. Spring/summer 2012 will see the launch of the first Peter Pilotto pre-collection, and some long days for the East London based design team. Interview: Alana Wallace. Photos: Giles Price, Peter Pilotto

Y

ou both have interesting family backgrounds, how do you think that cultural experience has influenced your outlook and the collections?

Peter Pilotto: There is simply a lot of curiosity

in us about different places. My Mum is Italian and my Dad Austrian, and Christopher is half Belgian and half Peruvian, was born in Libya and moved to many countries. So I guess that makes you open-minded to begin with and we have the advantage of each other's backgrounds.

Where would you call home?

Peter Pilotto: Everywhere is temporary;

home can be anywhere. We have lived in London for five years but this will not be home forever, I think it’s nice to keep on moving.

Peter, your family owns retail stores in Austria. How do you think their business has influenced your career? And Christopher, have your parents influenced your career path at all?

Christopher de Vos: I guess travelling a lot as

a child meant I got to see a lot of things that kids don’t get to see. I started to study architecture and then I moved into fashion. I was

always torn between the two, but I had to study architecture at first because it was more accepted than fashion by the family.

But for you [Peter] I think it was maybe accepted from the start.

Peter Pilotto: I think maybe it would have been more confusing if I hadn't studied fashion. Growing up this way, seeing the fairs and how filled they are with labels and brands, it felt like an impossible mountain to climb. I think that's why I was going to study graphic design, but then it just made more sense to do fashion after trying different things. My family business is where I gained my first experience in fashion and it's good to have seen that side and worked a little bit in stores. It's a great thing to have that understanding – what problems arise in store, what customers like and what it's like dealing with customers. These days you have to maintain your relationship with your retailers really well. For instance, we just did a trunk show at Harvey Nichols two weeks ago and last November we actually went travelling and saw our stockists in Dublin, Hong Kong, L.A., New York and Austria.

It's really exciting for us to go around and style in progress 411

036 LONGVIEW

Not all the sketches for the autumn/winter 2011 collection shown here went into production. Peter and Christopher produce a great number, but only decide the day before the show which pieces will reach the catwalk.

see not only our stockists but also our customers. Obviously there are only so many we can see each season, some we might only reach every couple of years because we sell globally and it's difficult to see everyone.

Do you get time to absorb the cities you travel to and pick up inspiration?

Peter Pilotto: It depends on the place. Some-

times they make schedules for us that are so hard; it's like we arrived with jet lag and in Hong Kong had something like 25 interviews. Sometimes there really isn't any time left for anything else. When we travelled around, we also went to Japan where we had much more time to look at amazing architecture - we constantly absorb. Nowadays we also like to research things on the internet.

I'm searching the internet constantly.

Why did you choose London as the base for your label?

Peter Pilotto: Christopher and I both studied

in Antwerp and the label was started there, but it wasn't really happening for us there.

Christopher moved to London for work and then we both realised that it would be a good thing for me to come here rather than 411 style in progress

Paris or something, which is more common for Antwerp-trained designers. It was great because we then applied for the support of New Gen and all these organisations and slowly got into it, and London really embraced us. We didn't study here, but we are considered London designers. That really shows what London is like – People are really open and it's such a great place. It would also be very hard in other cities to find a team like we have, with as much experience. Everyone is highly motivated and it's really exciting.

A lot of British designers manufacture in London because they want to be involved in the process to guarantee quality. I'm actually surprised at how many and it's great to see them supporting our economy.

Peter Pilotto: You don't necessarily have the

option to do that in other countries. When you're starting out, no matter what, you will start small; therefore you need manufacturers who know you might have very small production runs. But now we are kind of experiencing the opposite, reaching the

capacity of some of these manufacturers and looking around for other options.

Will you move production outside of the UK? Peter Pilotto: A little bit. We're testing some

manufacturers in Belgium and around.

Do you find London inspiring on a cultural level?

Peter Pilotto: It's hard to say; we work day

and night literally.

Do you find time for any fun?

Peter Pilotto: Yeah, but we do have fun here

at the studio as well. I think especially being east here is great; it's such a cool area with nice little restaurants and things. All our friends live around here, so that's great, although it can become a little villiagey.

I think London is really amazing.

You have said in previous interviews that you Christopher focus on the architecture of the design, and you Peter on the graphics and prints. Is that how you share the workload?

Christopher de Vos: We do everything

together and every creative decision is taken together. There is a constant dialog, but in

+39 02 255151.1

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038 LONGVIEW

The Peter Pilotto collection for autumn/winter 2011: The label's signature dresses in otherworldly digital prints are joined by a strong coat offer this season.

order to get things done and be more efficient, Peter concentrates on the print side of things, working with his team on that, and I work with the pattern cutters on the shapes.

In the end all the decision-making is done together.

What's it like to work as a design duo?

Peter Pilotto: I guess there are mainly plus

points, but it's always a challenge to get out ideas that are very raw and explain them. At the same time, at any design house, there is never anyone alone. I don't think fashion ever happens in the head of just one person, it's always a team.

I saw in the studio that you are creating your first pre-collection for spring: How is that progressing?

Peter Pilotto: It's progressing…slowly.

Christopher de Vos: It's our first time crea-

ting a pre-collection, which is a new season within the season. It kind of requires a lot of organisation, it's tough.

Peter Pilotto: New challenges. People are 411 style in progress

working on two seasons in one day so it's going to be hard, but the team is growing and getting more professional. We try to keep our calendars really solid and make it work, but still have freedom to develop something five days longer if needed. Right before a deadline you are at your most creative; for sure the main collection will benefit from that earlier deadline as well. Sometimes you can't do everything in time so that you can incorporate it in the next collection right after.

Why have you decided to launch a precollection now?

Peter Pilotto: In certain markets it's really

important to work with pre-collections. It's about whether the company and team can cope with it and we feel now is the time. It will be hard, like always, but it's an opportunity for the label to grow and there are a lot of new categories being added. Certain customers of ours still come for the signature pieces from the first collections, and they're

always there, but together with other new things. Pre-collections will be a lot about signature pieces and it's fun to develop ideas in different ways for the one long spring/summer 2012 season.

As a young label, what support did you find and which was the most beneficial?

That of the British Fashion Council (BFC), or maybe the support of your families?

Christopher de Vos: The BFC supported the

show with New Gen and now Fashion Forward. At the London College of Fashion, at Mare Street, we had a studio for two years, which was really helpful. There are different schemes, but there is a lot of support out there, which you need as a young designer.

It's not only financial support, but also mentoring support, meeting people from the industry.

And who sets that up? Is that something you sought for yourselves?

Peter Pilotto: At the time we heard about

New Gen and a fashion friend introduced us

ph: Masao Yamamoto

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040 LONGVIEW

The Peter Pilotto studio in East London, where the team spends most of its waking hours.

"We didn't study here, but we are considered London designers and that really shows what London is like."

Peter Pilotto

"I think fashion really embraces new technology quite openly, especially when it comes to digital printing. We were some of the first ones to use and now there are many more." Christopher de Vos

411 style in progress

LONGVIEW 041

to them. We applied and at the end we got the exhibition support. Through that we met other organisations that supported our first off schedule show. During the exhibition the CFE approached us and it's getting into these groups, I guess, which really gets you recognised so other organisations are attracted to working with you. It's a platform to present your work and meet the right people. In the very beginning we had this artist's studio, which was tiny but very affordable: That's the great thing about being out here in the East - you have all the artists' studios and there's so much going on, which makes it a good place to begin.

There are also amazing stores in London, which are very open-minded to working with new talent. Those buyers took the risk of ordering from us for spring/summer 2009 and we did our part, delivered on time with quality, and that way the relationships grew.

In any career there's a defining moment that sets you on the right track, what's yours?

Peter Pilotto: Spring/summer 09 - that was

our first on schedule show. It was a very exciting moment when a lot of people bought us for the first time and our stockist list really increased. But there are many moments, the first time we met the very important editor‌There are many.

Industry insiders have supported your label since the beginning, but it is fair to say that consumer awareness has heightened considerably since celebrities have been spotted wearing Peter Pilotto?

How do you feel about this trend for celebrity marketing? Is it something you actively support?

Peter Pilotto: It started somehow with

people simply buying the clothes in stores and we were very happily surprised to see that. It wasn't a strategy at all and that made us reach markets in such a good way. For instance, there would be a feature in a German magazine and the day after, all the German retailers would call us. That was really helpful; as a young brand you don't have advertising and of course people need to see the clothes.

So you're positive towards celebrity endorsement?

Peter Pilotto: It's kind of fun. After a while

of course the press office works on getting the right people in our clothes.

Christopher de Vos: It definitely turns into sales when celebrities wear our clothes, but we don't proactively target celebrities. But it has happened and always with a good result.

Peter Pilotto: We also try to maintain relationships with the celebrity stylists. It can be a really good relationship on both sides if the right person gets to wear the right things.

There has been a lot of debate over the future of catwalks and the need to involve the end-consumer with live streaming.

How do you see the future and would you

like to see designer fashion become more accessible?

Peter Pilotto: I think there will be changes,

but who knows exactly? It's a bit hard to predict. It's all getting faster and the show really is looked at right away by the end consumer because it is live streamed mostly.

Christopher de Vos: The industry will go where it has to go. Obviously because we are a small label, we can't control the whole of it; there are bigger players that will influence where the catwalks go. The whole system will change and of course the young designers will have to go with it. There are many people involved and I'm not sure everyone wants to play the same game but we will see.

Historically, fashion has always embraced fabric developments, especially if it makes clothing more comfortable. Do you think it's a natural evolution or is fashion constantly evolving into a more casual version of itself?

Christopher de Vos: I think fashion really

embraces new technology quite openly, especially when it comes to digital printing.

We were some of the first ones to use digital printing and now there are many more.

When new technologies appear, it's exciting, but I think it will always be about comfort and I don't think anyone will ever compromise that.

Peter Pilotto: Women wear shoes that are higher than ever before and I think so much of fashion is about passion: That will make you do things and wear things that aren't just about comfort. It's about luxury more than anything and fabrics need to be sophisticated.

Collections in recent seasons have been described as modern minimalist in their influence. There is speculation that it's a reaction to the economic climate and consumers wanting wardrobe staples that have a longer lifespan. Where do you stand on this issue and do you see yourselves as quite far removed from the debate?

Christopher de Vos: We don't think in this

way. We think about the woman in our clothes, but we don't think about a strategy of crisis or not. People still need to wear things and maybe they want to have even more fun in times of crisis.

Peter Pilotto: I don't believe that because something is minimal, it is more long lasting than anything else. It's good that there's so much variety, you have on one hand extremely minimalist collections and at the same time very opulent things. I guess the most fun is to mix them up.

We continue to see a lot of sportswear influences coming through in womenswear collections, but at the same time we are seeing menswear smartening up. Do you think this will follow through into womenswear?

Peter Pilotto: There will always be super

smart next to casual because you need to be

so many different people within a day, and you need different garments throughout the day. We do have some knitwear and casual things, which is nice for us to have alongside the more dressy pieces.

Aside from adding pre-collections, if you could add another dimension to your label, what would it be?

Peter Pilotto: We concentrate very much on

the day-to-day and the next couple of years I guess. There's nothing right now apart from the things we are working on, but someday our own retail store would be great. To be able to express the vision in this way, that would certainly be sooner than say a perfume, but still feels far away. We both have imagined what a great platform it would be to have our own store and to present the collection.

Christopher de Vos: It's a big step. But we do everything in-house: We manage production and do distribution, grading, patterns.

You have enough to keep you busy for now‌ Christopher de Vos: Yeah, it's just taking

the next step and finding the right partners.

Production is the biggest challenge.

How do you plan to keep your collections edited and focused when you're expanding as a brand?

Peter Pilotto: We just continue to make sure

we have the core things. Coats were a new thing for the autumn/winter collection that sold better than in the past. We feel like we've now reached a certain point with the coats that we did with dresses a couple of seasons ago. It's exciting to see customers add those categories to the things we are known for. It's about adding these categories that need to be equally as strong as other things.

If you could sum up Peter Pilotto the brand in one word, what would it be?

Peter Pilotto: I think that other people

should do that for us because we try to do that in our shows every season.

Design partners Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos met whilst studying at Antwerp's prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2000. They launched their London-based Peter Pilotto label in 2007, quickly gaining acclaim for their signature otherworldly prints and sculptural shapes, which have evolved each season. The design duo won the Best Emerging Talent Award at the British Fashion Awards in 2009, a turning point in their careers. The label has long been a favourite with the fashion press, but also with celebrities in recent seasons, including Claudia Schiffer, Jessica Alba and Michelle Obama.

The pair have recently moved to a new East London studio where they oversee all stages of production in-house. www.peterpilotto.com

style in progress 411

042 CONCEPT

According to many distributors, anyone wanting to build up their brand’s image knows how important it is to co-operate with fashion retailers. These are sales opportunities that classic shoe retailers often pass up.

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CONCEPT 043

If the Shoe Pinches…

Uniform ranges and a little fashion courage make a problemchild put of the classic shoe trade. Do fashion stores make better shoe shops? Text: Karolina Landowski. Photos: Brands

F

irst of all, a brief disclaimer: There are, of course, perfect examples of both types of stores: strong, well-established retailers who do their homework, and the complacent ones who are simply out of step with the times.

Nevertheless, upscale clothing stores are widely regarded as better shoe retailers than their more pedestrian competitors. "End customers don't go to shoe stores to look at the latest trends," says Tommy Wieler from the Stuttgart sales and distribution agency K+K Logistics. The Sales Manager of the Portuguese shoe brand Dolfie knows what he's talking about. After all, he sells almost exclusively to fashion retailers. Wieler is predicting that these stores have much greater potential to peddle shoes. After all, a larger proportion of upscale clothing stores are far more fashionable and daring in what they stock – and they make their procurements much earlier.

Important Source of Sales Revenues.

There are, in fact, a number of fashionable footwear stores, like Shoes Fifty-6 in Saarbrücken and Sigrun Woehr in Karlsruhe, Stuttgart, Pforzheim and Heilbronn, which

put together their product range with a great deal of passion and fashion pluck. But, aside from these retailers, isn't there a huge gap that can be filled by clothing retailers? Not according to Kurt Denkstein, whose portfolio of clients includes many fashion stores that purchase his brands Pretty Ballerinas, Mascaró und Tremp. "Clothing stores can't reinvent the shoe retail trade. Their main job consists of tapping into consumers' desires for something new and forming a niche in a generally flooded market." Shoppers who stroll through today's inner cities invariably see the same dismally boring five brands in shoe shop storefronts. "There are no good shoe stores at many locations, and this creates enormous potential for local clothing stores," says Florian Ranft from Komet und Helden, who represents the Spanish shoe brand Preventi. "It shouldn't be underestimated how important this product is as a source of sales revenues," adds Stefan Fischer from Ludwig Reiter. However, it appears that shoe retailers are, unfortunately, underestimating their own customers.

Discerning, Confident Customers. Cus-

tomers have become more discerning and

the market has underestimated this," confirms Vladimir Andjelkovic, who represents the Luis Onofre premium women's shoe collection and Portuguese men's shoe brand Carlos Santos. He says that a stylish transformation has taken place, particularly with regard to men's shoes. Ranft agrees that the men's shoe market has undergone the most dynamic development: "The range of brands is much more interesting, the models have become far more fashionable and elaborate, and this is primarily reflected in the clothing retail sector."

Wrong Product Range? Are shoe stores

trying to push the wrong products on their customers? Yes and no. According to Denkstein, needs-oriented customers are better off in traditional footwear stores. "The depth and selection of the product range there are second to none. For instance, if a customer is looking for classic black pumps, she'll find them in a shoe store in seven sizes, and perhaps even half sizes. Clothing stores will only offer a maximum of four." Specialised retailers also have a clear advantage in terms of advising customers. But what if shoppers no longer want advice? "Today's young style in progress 411

044 CONCEPT

Shoes in the spotlight: An increasing number of fashion retailers are discovering that footwear as an accessory is an excellent money maker and are taking a more style-oriented approach to this article than their more pedestrian competitors in the shoe retail business.

Shoes on order: At Düsseldorf's GDS shoe trade fair, clothing retailers have long ranked among the top customers in the White Cubes premium area.

Lifestyle worlds: Upscale department stores like Steffl in Vienna increasingly integrate top-flight fashion concepts into breathtakingly staged shoe departments.

buyers are no longer interested in the traditional interaction with sales staff. They know exactly what they want," says Uwe Deinert from Vic Matié. Christoph Siegel from Candice Cooper spells it out even more clearly: "The shoe retail trade is in danger of missing out on an important modern generation of buyers."

Better Informed, Better Decisions.

Clothing retailers have a reputation for being not only more open-minded, but also considerably better informed. Holding the Bread & Butter early in the season gives them a huge head start. But there are still far too few shoe retailers who manage to attend this increasingly important fashion exhibition in Berlin. "Clothing retailers of course think outside the box," says Gabi Heininger, who represents the brands n.d.c., Fitz, Yin and Maloles. "They attend more trade shows, are more interested in the zeitgeist, and 411 style in progress

travel more." Assuming that many smaller shoe retailers don't even attend Düsseldorf's GDS shoe exhibition, and meet their needs for standard suppliers through local shoe order centres, it's hard to imagine that they are particularly up-to-date and fashion savvy.

"Shoe retailers first have to be made aware of an interesting brand," observes Fischer from Ludwig Reiter, whose very classical products are highly favoured by clothing retailers.

They are looking for brands with history and tradition that combine craftsmanship and quality. "The majority of upmarket clothing stores are interested in a product's origins and soul," he says.

Emotion and Intuition. "You already notice a difference between shoe and clothing retailers when they place their orders. The clothing merchants have a more open and far more emotional approach to the product," says Ilya Morgan from Deluxe Distri-

bution in Berlin. He also notes that they are more willing to try smaller quantities, and rely heavily on their sense of intuition. This is in contrast to traditional shoe retailers who stock their stores according to what sells and what works. Such an approach doesn't surprise Denkstein. He points out that entirely different sales targets are at stake for shoe retailers: "The bigger the share of revenues that a product commands, the more cautiously it is ordered." Morgan adds: "While clothing stores very selectively seek out new brands, shoe retailers don't look for trends, but for sales potential." He says that "they have an extremely commercial approach" – and are highly price conscious. "Fashion store owners don't talk about prices," confirms Fischer. The shoe retail trade, however, is driven by sales, and orders are usually placed according to the push list. That's a bad mistake according to Deinert: "If something sold well last season, that doesn’t necessarily

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Messe D端sseldorf GmbH Postfach 10 10 06 40001 D端sseldorf Germany Tel. + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-01 Fax + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-6 68 www.messe-duesseldorf.de

046 CONCEPT

1

2

1) "End consumers don’t go to shoe stores to look at the latest trends."

Tommy Wieler K + K Logistics 2) "There are no good shoe stores at many locations, and this offers enormous potential for local clothing stores."

Florian Ranft, Komet und Helden 3) "While clothing stores very selectively seek out new brands, shoe retailers don't look for trends, but rather for sales potential."

Ilya Morgan, Deluxe Distribution

mean it will do well during the coming season – and vice versa." In other words, shoe retailers are selling yesterday's goods, not tomorrow's trends.

Putting the Focus on Shoes. Today's

consumers are not only more open-minded style-wise, but also less price-conscious than initially assumed. "I'm definitely surprised at how much money customers are sometimes prepared to spend on a pair of shoes," says Susanne Lindner, owner of the Dortmund boutique Standy By Lindner, which has seen a 30 per cent increase in shoe sales. "Shoe retailers stubbornly assume that they have to stock low-priced merchandise to best serve their customers," says Andjelkovic, who sees this as a fallacy: "These days men don’t hesitate to spend 300 to 500 euros on shoes to go with a 1,000 euro suit." Taking into account that the average selling price of a pair of woman's shoes in Germany was 62 euros in 2010, and a pair of men's shoes averaged in at 75 euros, the reality on the ground is closer to Gabor than Gucci.

Nevertheless: "Shoes have gained importance – both in the clothing retail trade and among consumers," says Ranft. One reason for this is that they enjoy widespread exposure as a product. Thanks to seemingly endless fashion spreads in women's magazines and flashy commercials by Zalando, Mirapodo and other retailers, there seem to be shoes everywhere you look.

Appreciating the Product. "Fashion re-

tailers take our image further – they stage 411 style in progress

3

4

5

4) "I'm definitely surprised at how much money customers are sometimes prepared to spend on a pair of shoes."

Susan Lindner, owner Standy By Lindner 5) "Shoe retailers stubbornly assume that they have to stock low-priced merchandise to best serve their customers."

Vladimir Andjelkovic, Carlos Santos

6

7

7) "Clothing retailers still see shoes purely as an accessory, and not one of the top groups of merchandise. It's not a simple product, but highly complex and complicated." Uwe Deinert, Vic Matié "Fashion retailers take our image further – they stage and decorate it differently."

Wolfgang Dünkelberg, Ash

6) "You have to have the shoe in the store." Kerstin Görling, Hayashi

"The clothing retail trade helps maintain the value of shoes."

Christoph Siegel, Candice Cooper

and decorate it differently," says Wolfgang Dünkelberg, who has achieved tremendous commercial success with his Ash brand, primarily among clothing retailers. Brands don't get lost in the crowd. Indeed, upscale clothing retailers can provide an appealing springboard for many small brands. One example is the trend brand Dolfie, which is being sold and distributed by the agency K+K Logistics for the third season in a row.

"We are targeting fashion retailers to enhance our image," says Wieler. Many representatives have to remain patient, however, because they fully realise that their sales objectives can only be achieved with the help of shoe retailers. Wieler thinks it will take shoe retailers at least a year before they "have understood" his product. This gives him enough time to selectively bolster the brand via fashion retailers. "Clothing stores clearly boost the brand's value," adds Ranft.

look. Being able to offer the customer the right shoes to go with an outfit is what my work is all about."

The Outfit Concept. Clothing retailers are clearly the experts when it comes to impulse buying. Top retail operations like Lodenfrey and Selfridges are currently investing in huge shoe and accessories departments. "You have to have the shoe in the store," confirms Kerstin Görling from the Frankfurt trend boutique Hayashi. It's easy for her to sell shoes when they complement the overall look.

"Women simply wouldn’t understand many of my models if they saw them in a shoe store, but they immediately get the idea in combination with an outfit." Lindner agrees that the outfit concept is the strongest selling point. "A shoe can make or break a

A Highly Complex Product? Most sales professionals warn against embracing shoes as a sales bonanza. The product range still needs to make a clear statement – and offer a perfect fit. "A fashion shoe is not a needsoriented purchase, and thus not a self-service product. It needs to be actively sold," says Ranft. "Clothing retailers still see shoes purely as an accessory, and not one of the top groups of merchandise. It’s not a simple product, but highly complex and complicated," adds Deinert. He says that due to a lack of knowledge, many fashion retailers primarily underestimate the importance of properly fitting shoes. It may be right in line with current trends, but if a shoe pinches and causes pain, this tarnishes the image – primarily of the retailer.

The Market Is Changing. According to Deinert, both retail concepts are mutually beneficial. "Collaborating with fashion stores has altered the market. We are well on our way to a situation in which consumers are again prepared to pay more for shoes." The increased competition has ultimately allowed the more price-sensitive shoe retail trade to obtain higher average prices. Siegel also says that shoe retailers end up benefiting from apparel stores.

"The clothing retail trade helps maintain the value of shoes. And it has put the brakes on the brutal devaluation of this product by discounters and high-volume suppliers."

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Georgia May Jagger models her jeans line for Hudson.

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What Women Want In summer 2010 chinos made a big entrance in mainstream fashion for women. They were refreshing, comfortable alternatives to the skinny that had been ruling women's bottom fashion for years. For a while it seemed that women's denim had lost its cool, but now the latter is slowly moving out of the spotlights and making way for the new, feminine blue. Text: Miranda Hoogervorst. Photos: Brands

T

he number one position for comfy, elegant and economic chinos was a temporary thing of course; denim will never really be replaced. Not in our lifetime.

Chinos have gained themselves a fixed spot in every woman's basic wardrobe, so now it's time for denim to move back to the front.

We see a lot of new and not so mainstream brands pop up, showing their new visions of women's denim. Fashion magazines, bloggers and (online) stores are more and more excited too about the "new blue."

Especially curve enhancing denims are getting full attention - not only tight stretch models, but also '70s styled flared legs, bell bottoms and high-waisted jeans. Sleek, clean and focused on the shaping aspect: denim is, once more, the new must-have.

High Prices. Women are willing to spend a

lot of money on good jeans, financial crisis or not. The market for women's high end quality denims has been rising in the last decade. The 2010 Denim in Depth issue of WWD states that sales of women's jeans in the US rose 6.2 per cent from March 2009 till March 2010. Also mentioned was the fact that after the recession US customers were looking for more from their product: Quality expectations were higher. This conclusion also applies to the European market.

Mother Denim. The least to expect from

high quality jeans is that they should keep a perfect fit after being worn for a few hours or even a few days. For example, the worst thing about average tight jeans is the sagging effect: the jeans grow half or even a whole size.

Tim Kaeding, former Creative Director for 7 For All Mankind and Lela Tillem, former President of Sales and Marketing at Citizens of Humanity, launched their brand Mother Denim in spring/summer 2010. Their mission: "To break the barriers of what people have come to expect from average mainstream denim companies." The brand promises to make legs and bums the centre of attention, and not just for the first few hours. The fabrics are of a high quality and are soft and luxurious like cashmere. Denims also feature stretch for a comfortable, hugging feel. Mother offers interesting interpretations from vintage models, like flared legs, bell bottoms and even a super feminine ankle length denim skirt.

Notify. After Maurice Ohayon sold his denim brand Seven Seven in 2002, he decided to go for a more intimate story with a new denim brand for men and women. He launched the luxury, sophisticated denim brand Notify in 2003, in Paris. Due to his inherent sense of tailoring (his mother was

a men's tailor), he decided to infuse the collection with a sartorial spirit, which defines true luxury according to Ohayon. His denims are made by experts in Italy who use traditional hand detailing, like the embroidered Notify on the inside of the waistband.

The brand offers comfortable materials and works with innovative washes. Especially the finishes and patina make Notify a brand that's loved by women who look for high quality, figure hugging designs with a stylish touch. In 2004 the brand was already working with slim cuts and special treatments like wax coatings. Experiments with the weave of the cloth make the textile more workable for these special finishes and give the jeans a natural, subtle vintage effect. The collection is based on an evolution of the classic and basic five pocket jeans and keeps pushing the possibilities of the fabric. For the next season, Notify believes that the flared, loose and high waist models will be important, alongside their famous slouch skinny jeans.

Following Notify's collaborations with K Karl Lagerfeld, French children's label Bonpoint and Stella McCartney, a new collaboration will be launched for season spring/ summer 2012.

DL1961. The American brand DL1961 uses

the revolutionary four way stretch technology XFit from Invista for extra comfort. style in progress 411

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Fashion shapes such as high waist jeans (here in photo from Mother Denim) are shaking up the market.

The focus is on the figure with Notify's feminine premium denim.

Ruud Bittink, DL1961 importer for the European market, explains: "DL1961 jeans doesn't correct a silhouette, it accentuates it in a comfortable way. Our denim has 27.5 per cent stretch woven into the cotton fabric. The denim moves in four ways and the white, elastic fibre will not peek through after a few washings; our black stretch is really black. Due to the perfect fabric, our jeans will not bag-and-sag, they'll fit perfect all day long." DL1961 was launched in summer 2008 and is available throughout Europe. It has over 200 points of sale in the Benelux and Germany and at the beginning of this year, it opened a concept store in Le Marais in Paris.

Made in Heaven. The bum is the key for British women's jeans brand Made in Heaven.

Owner Chloe Lonsdale revived the denim 411 style in progress

brand her godfather launched back in the '70s. Her goal: to create the best looking bums in the world. MiH is an original British denim label. MiH jeans are something completely different: clean, smart and sophisticated. If a skinny means too much exposure, there are loads of straighter, boot cut and wider legs to choose from. For summer, the Marrakech flared was one of the best selling styles. Also good for MiH's summer sales was the special capsule collection it developed exclusively for net-a-porter.

Psychology at Donna Ida. British retailer Donna Ida started her denim store in 2006, after her own struggles in finding good jeans. She now has four stores in London, with a broad selection of women's brands like Hudson, Paige, James Jeans, J Brand, Citizens of Humanity, Goldsign, MiH Jeans

and Mother Denim. She says: "Women probably wear even more denim than men, and there's also much more choice in women's styles. It really does make more sense to have specialty denim stores for women. She has turned her own shopping experiences into successful sales techniques: "We always give our clients jeans that are slightly too big at first. Because if a woman can't pull the first ones over her thighs, you'll have to work very hard to make up for that."

Another thing to keep in mind is that ladies do their own maths while shopping. A long lasting pair of 250 euro jeans may end up at the very low CPD (costs-per-day) of one euro or even less: as a bargain. So, with a little bit of female psychology, a comforting environment and high quality denims, the new blue will not only boost a woman's self esteem, but also a retailer's turnover.

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052 CONCEPT

More than Skinny Hudson | The luxury jeans brand Hudson combines Californian coolness with sophisticated, timeless designs. Together with the face of the campaign, Georgia May Jagger, head designer Ben Taverniti created the successful range Hudson

by Georgia May Jagger. Text: Miranda Hoogervorst. Photo: Hudson

Ben Taverniti and Georgia May Jagger.

"T

he cooperation happened by itself," says Ben Taverniti. "About two years ago, Georgia was the face of Hudson and during the shoots she gave us good feedback. She liked our designs, but told us she'd like them even more if we made a few small changes. And that's how it began."

British coolness and Californian freedom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this synergy is the perfect embodiment of the "it" girl. The range presents five styles in different washes and fabrics for retail prices between 200 and 400 euros. Three of these jeans are dedicated to Georgia's mother Jerry Hall: Jerry, Faye und Gonzales (Hall's place of birth).

cost up to 1,000 euros. The collection is based on quality and timeless design. Ben Taverniti: "Our quality remains constant.

This level is the result of 10 years of experience. I hate the word trends. Jeans are jeans.

They're ultimately a women's accessory.

Every pair of Hudson jeans can be worn for the next 10 years. Everyone should have one in their wardrobe. Because rather than following a particular demography, Hudson subscribes to a psychography and everything is dependent on the mindset. Women always ask me: "Which jeans are the right ones for me?" But who am I to tell a women what to like? If she feels good in jeans, then they're the right ones. Attitude is everything."

Psychography. In addition to the cooperation with Georgia May Jagger and the regular men's and women's ranges, Hudson also offers an exclusive collection. It begins retailing at 300 euros and limited editions can

Skinny and technology. Hudson is enjoy-

411 style in progress

ing rapid growth in Europe and is popular in both department stores and trend stores such as Harvey Nichols, Selfridges or L'Eclaireur.

Hudson is promising vibrant colours and

feeling for this coming season. Ben Taverniti: "With colours, special techniques and fabrics, we'll create something as lively as a painting. All cuts are currently important, which is why we offer boot cut, skinny flare, wide leg, high waist â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whatever the heart desires. Skinny has taken over from boot cut as the basic style: Everyone has skinny jeans, so they're no longer a trend and have more or less reached their peak."

Hudson Jeans. Los Angeles, CA 90015/USA, T 001.213.9955550, nicole.pearl@hudsonjeans.com, www.hudsonjeans.com Distribution in 40 countries, about 60 sales points in Germany, four main collections: regular (M/W), high end (W), Georgia May Jagger (W), prices between 200 and 1000 RRP, European distribution through agents and distributors; Unifa Fashion for Germany and Switzerland.

054 CONCEPT

A strong comeback: Alongside its luxury denims, Blue Blood has added a new, commercial line.

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Modest Luxury Blue Blood | Blue Blood, the denim brand known for its luxury denims for men and women, has experienced some very rough times the last few years, including the loss of denim expert Jason Denham and official bankruptcy. Now with a steady financial investor and brand new team. It's ready to shake off every last bit of negativity. Text: Miranda Hoogervorst. Photos: Blue Blood

Micha Noot, International Sales Manager of the newly restructured brand Blue Blood.

B

lue Blood was launched in 2002 by Steve te Pas and Jason Denham and jumped right into the niche of expensive, luxury denim. With the outstanding skills of denim expert Denham and the selfassured marketing strategy of te Pas, Blue Blood soon became an important name in the jeans market. In those days, people easily paid 400 to 600 euros for a pair of Blue Bloods and the brand expanded rapidly in the Netherlands and abroad. Unfortunately, collaboration with a new investor in 2006 marked the start of the brand's downfall, which ended in bankruptcy in October 2009. A new owner (Urban Trends Trading) and the initial investor picked up the pieces and helped Blue Blood to move on. The newly hired team worked hard to win back confidence of retailers worldwide.

Regaining its Position. In the Blue Blood office in the centre of Amsterdam, International Sales Manager Micha Noot, who worked nine years for Guess Jeans, talks about the new challenge: "We have to bring Blue Blood back to where it was: at a high position in the national and international market. Luckily our image with the consumer is still strong. They only noticed Blue Blood was hard to get at the usual multi-brand stores.

Our retailers on the other hand all know what has happened backstage and have suf-

fered quite a lot in the last few years. That's why we decided to pay for the damage done.

It's the only way to move on with them. So far, most of our clients are still in business with us. A few of them are taking it easy.

They want to see improvement first."

Shoes and Bags. Blue Blood obviously cherishes the successful designs that have been made by Jason Denham, like the Tokyo Ronnie and the Steve Dry Alter, which refers to Steve McQueen by the way. Noot says: "These designs and fittings are great and they'll remain available in our luxury line.

We'll continue to be a pure denim brand, with a vintage look. Shiny details and coatings, stretch denim for men: you'll never see that with our jeans. But of course we'll stay innovative. We will launch some beautiful washes at Bread & Butter in July. And for next winter we will offer a new line with bags, belts and shoes."

Nice and Approachable. Blue Blood currently has about four hundred points of sale worldwide, including the US and twelve countries in Europe. There are agents in Australia and Canada. In Holland there are five mono-brand stores and the plan is to open one in every sales country. The webshop has been up and running since last April. Expansion is high on the agenda and a fresh new

strategy should help make this possible. Blue Blood is taking its position in a changing denim market, says Noot: "We used to make just luxury, expensive denims. But there aren't too many people anymore who are willing to spend hundreds of euros on one pair of jeans. That's why we've added a more commercial denim line, with prices between 99 and 139 euros. We want to be next to brands like Diesel and Replay." Quite frankly he adds: "Blue Blood has changed a lot. It used to be a pretty arrogant company that communicated: 'If you can't afford a 400 euro pair of jeans, then that's your bad luck.' We're a nicer, more approachable brand now."

Blue Blood was founded in 2002 by Steve te Pas and Jason Denham. After Denham's departure and the brand's insovency in 2009, a new team, supported by investor Urban Trends Trading, took over with the goal of repositioning the luxury denim brand. A commercial line was started with prices between 99 and 139 euros. wwwl bluebloodbrand.com

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In The Year Of The Rabbit Witty Knitters | In the Chinese astrological system, the rabbit is considered a lucky animal. This horoscope certainly bodes well for the establishment of a new label whose symbol is – symbolically enough – all things bunny. Whether it's in the stars are not, Jutta Schweiger, a dedicated fashion designer, is leaving nothing to chance as Witty Knitters takes its first big hops in 2011. Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Christian Schoppe, He&Me für Witty Knitters

Witty Knitters wonderland: Designer Jutta Schweiger found inspiration for her shop design in fairy tales.

W

itty Knitters' home port is Hamburg, and the label has dropped anchor in the ultra-modern HafenCity harbour district, in a 70 square metre studio with an equally spacious shop. This was no random selection: "Our retail strategy calls for us to focus on resorts," says label founder Jutta Schweiger (35), who is convinced that the HafenCity's location on the water, at the gateway to the world, gives it a resort flair. Two other stores, between 40 and 70 square metres large, have just opened on Sylt in the towns of Keitum and Westerland. Although this is all about her dream of owning her own label, it's clearly not a trip down the rabbit hole.

Schweiger, who hails from northern Germany, studied fashion design at Hamburg's AMD (Academy of Fashion and Design) and has focused on knitting ever since. She says that Witty Knitters was "created at the right time and in the right place, with the right people and combining attention to detail, technical expertise and witty designs."

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Focus on quality and witty designs.

Materials include top-quality cashmere yarns from Mongolia, featuring blends and qualities specifically developed by her. Production is mainly in Asia and Europe, and the styles, primarily women's outerwear, are available in sizes ranging from XS to XXL. The Witty Knitters team consists of top partners in each field, with experts in production, finance (the company headquarters is in Münchenstein, Switzerland), retail and distribution, which is handled by Adventure GmbH in Munich.

Schweiger draws her creativity primarily from her private life: "My two daughters remind me every day to go through the world with open eyes. And my husband, who works as a photographer, is one of my best sources of inspiration." The young businesswoman remains uncompromising on one point: "Quality is the cornerstone of our work, although quality and imagination should never be mutually exclusive!"

Over the next five years, Witty Knitters plans to open 100 stores across Europe,

all with one goal in mind: "Consistent quality and a constant flow of surprisingly witty designs!" The prospects look excellent for a fashionable rabbit born in the Year of the Rabbit: Schweiger says she is focusing on long-term investments and is taking a relaxed yet serious approach. She sees no point in rushing things and pursues long-range results, even if some people view such an approach as boringly conventional or even traditional. That sounds highly promising for Witty Knitters.

Witty Knitters AG. Kaspar-Pfeiffer-Strasse 4, 4142 Münchenstein/Switzerland Witty Knitters AG. Am Kaiserkai 46, 20457 Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.40.21111179-11, www.wittyknitters.com Founded: March 2011. Shops: 3. Staff: 12

FWD FASHION WEEK DÜSSELDORF | 23.07. – 26.07.2011

CINQUE SHOWROOM | SPEDITIONSTRASSE 17 | D-40221 DÜSSELDORF

CINQUE MODA GMBH | DOHRWEG 48 | D-41066 MÖNCHENGLADBACH | +49.(0)2161.9653 | INFO@CINQUE.DE | FACEBOOK.CINQUE.DE | CINQUE.DE

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A Passion for Fabric Swiss Textile Collection | Swiss fabrics and textile art attained international fame during the 20th and 21st centuries.

The Diors, Chanels and Givenchys of this world have long since used sensational high-quality Swiss fabric, primarily from the St. Gallen area. Everyone is thrilled by these gowns – and then they're whisked away from the public eye.

Now, a Swiss woman intends to change that. Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Frank Nader, Cornelia Wilhelm/Walter Zimmermann

The guardian of Swiss textile art treasures: Rosmarie Amacher.

Feminine corsage gown of silk organza, 1965. Evening coat and top made of Abraham silk, 1958.

R

osmarie Amacher, a successful and passionately dedicated couturière, has starting to compile a Swiss textile collection representing the highest level of textile art, sublime craftsmanship and design. "The plan is to show the collection around the world and rekindle the reputation of the Swiss textile trade," says the Zurich-based haute couture salon owner, "but above all, its aim is to inspire the future generation of textile makers and give them an opportunity to experience the incredible craftsmanship of these couture dresses, to touch and study them."

Indeed, the core of her idea is to focus on the sector's up-and-coming young talent.

"Young people who want to learn our won411 style in progress

derful craft need an opportunity to appreciate what these dresses are all about." She speaks from experience, since she personally works with apprentices at her salon – à ma chère – in the Seefeld district of Zürich.

"How is a corsage made? How are embroidered fabrics joined together to look seamless? Expertise sleeps in these dresses, and it needs to be passed on to future generations!" Unfortunately, young people these days don't have access to great examples of tailoring from past decades. Most existing collections are private or uncatalogued. And it's the same story every time Amacher takes young apprentices to the warehouse where, for lack of more appropriate space, the designer is temporarily storing her collection of over

300 archived treasures from around the world: They're astonished and frankly appalled that it's almost impossible these days to get access to such models.

It's estimated that it will take another five years to compile the entire Swiss textile collection. The current priority is to find donors, benefactors and sponsors who either donate textile creations or make a financial contribution – and help find a suitable location to house these masterpieces.

www.swisstextilecollection.ch, rosmarie.amacher@caraque.ch

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AGENTUR CONEX – ANDREAS ECCLI A-5020 SALZBURG TEL.: +43 (0) 662 455690 0 E-MAIL: OFFICE@CONEX.AT

Pushing to go public: Italian luxury and fashion companies want to finance their global expansion with freed-up capital.

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From the Catwalk to the World of Finance New capital is needed! Italy's showcase fashion and luxury companies are looking for new sources of money.

Is this a logical consequence of a globalised fashion world or are they selling off the family silver? Text: Thesy Kness-Bastaroli.

Illustration: Esther Gebauer/www.carolineseidler.com

T

hese days, the Italy's fashion industry hunger for new capital can't be ignored. Three Italian luxury fashion houses, Prada, Ferragamo and Monclear, are aiming to go public in summer 2011.

Another company, the jewellery and accessories manufacturer Bulgari, was absorbed

by LVMH, the French luxury group in the spring of this year. The reason for the new appetite for capital is not only the need to pay back debts accumulated during the crisis years. "The international expansion that is now necessary has to be financed," says Professor Armando Branchini, ex-plaining why the fashion houses are going public.

Branchini not only teaches fashion and design at Bocconi, the elite university in Milan, but is also the President of Altagamma, the trade association for luxury companies.

"We have to find new markets, and establish new shops in Asia and South America.

Numerous luxury companies - Gucci for

example - are also investing in new e-commerce platforms. Since it's necessary to have separate platforms for America, Asia and Europe, there is a great need for finding ways of dealing with our finances here," he says. Towards the end of the year, he is expecting to see more companies in the Italian luxury sector going public. The second six months of 2010 went well for the luxury industry. Elite Italian companies are expecting continued growth in 2011 and 2012 as well. "In the current year, we will exceed the record results of 2007." The crisis has finally been overcome. As long as there are no new wars, natural or financial catastrophes, the luxury sector is facing three years of growth.

The Prospects Are Good. Both the Florentine fashion house of Ferragamo and Moncler, the Milanese manufacturer of luxury down jackets, intend to increase the

number of their own mono-brand shops abroad. But to do this they need new capital.

Tod's, the exclusive shoe manufacturer, is one of the luxury companies showing the way to successful expansion by its listing on the stock exchange. The company tripled its turnover in 2000 following its IPO (initial public offer). Admittedly, the stock market listing for two other fashion groups proved to be a disaster for both Finpart (IT Holding) and the Mariella Burani Fashion Group.

Both groups were removed from the listing after they became insolvent. To this extent, going public is not necessarily everyone's recipe for success. "The initial public offer must be supported by a workable business plan and solid company results," says Branchini.

Milan's trendsetting company Prada has been trying to obtain new funds on the stock market since the year 2000. The attempts have failed to date, not only bestyle in progress 411

062 CONCEPT

cause of the terrorist attacks in New York (2001) and their consequences, but also because of the general economic and financial crisis. Whether it's now the fourth or fifth attempt by the top-flight Milanese tailor to go public, this time CEO Patrizio Bertelli is serious about it. After the earthquake disaster in Japan, many observers assumed that Prada would put its plans on ice, but the fashion house has not put the brakes on its stock market ambitions.

The initial listing is to take place at the beginning of July. The chosen financial centre is not Milan but Hong Kong. With the sale "Necessary international expansion has to be financed."

Armando Branchini, Bocconi University and President of Altagamma, the industry association for luxury companies.

of a fifth of its capital Prada could rake in at least 1.5 billion euros according to estimates in financial circles.

But the devil not only wears Prada, he's also notoriously involved in the details. The world-famous fashion label with its enormous growth rates in the metropolises of Asia is not letting on about the details.

Founded in 1913, Prada is particularly known for its handbags and shoes and operates retail stores throughout the world.

Under the Group's umbrella, in addition to the Prada flagship, there is a second line called Miu Miu and two shoe labels, Church's and The Original Car Shoe.

Searching for Luck in the East. In 2010

the French cosmetic manufacturer L'Occitane also moved to Hong Kong. With the rapidly growing wealth of the elite, investors in Hong Kong are more active than their European counterparts, which means more funds can be acquired there than in Milan.

It is in Asia that Prada is growing most strongly. The turnover in the region increased by almost 50 per cent in 2010; in Europe it was "only" 20 per cent and in America 27. By going public Prada could expand its growing business in China.

Observers think the People's Republic is capable of developing into the biggest market for luxury fashion within five years.

Prada expects sales in Asia to outperform those in Europe within three years.

The expected growth is only one side of the coin: An IPO will also help to reduce debts, which were quoted at 630 million euros for Prada. In summer 2010 the company denied that a Chinese investor had come on board.

At the time, a refinanced loan succeeded with the help of seven banks putting out 350 million euros.

Prada is 95 per cent owned by the family of designer Miuccia Prada and her husband, Company Chairman Patrizio Bertelli. Intesa Sanpaolo, a major Milanese bank, holds five 411 style in progress

per cent of the shares. In 2006 Prada was valued at two billion euros and the bank was able to purchase five per cent for 100 million euros. Today financial experts estimate the stock exchange value to be in the region of eight billion euros.

The End of Family-Run Fashion Empires? With a turnover of two billion

euros Prada is one of the largest and bestknown Italian fashion labels. Its most significant rivals belong to conglomerates: Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Kenzo, Loewe, Marc Jacobs and Fendi are owned by the Frenchowned LVMH. Based in Paris, PPR includes Gucci and also Yves Saint Laurent, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. For some time now, LVMH has been trying to acquire Hermès, but is no match for the family.

At Prada, the founder's grand-daughter Miuccia, who inherited the company in 1978, is considered to be the creative force.

She has made the brand famous with her husband Patrizio Bertelli. Whatever the case, the Italians did not make a good impression when they took over Hamburg fashion label Jil Sander. The company couldn't be restructured under Prada's management and was finally sold to a private equity company.

While Prada prefers the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, Moncler, a manufacturer of down and windproof jackets, and the Florencebased fashion house of Ferragamo plan to have their listing on the Piazza Affari in Milan. Ferragamo is valued at approximately 1.5 billion euros and Moncler at around a billion.

"In spite of the earthquake in Japan and its consequences, and the uncertain international geopolitical situation, we want to take our chance with the stock market since we've been preparing for the last three years."

Ferruccio Ferragamo, President of Salvatore Ferragamo

The Italian luxury fashion company Ferragamo wants to go public on the Milan stock exchange by the middle of the year. This was confirmed to journalists by the CEO of the company, Ferruccio Ferragamo. The founding family of Ferragamo will have a controlling share of the Florentine fashion house. Eight per cent of the shares are held

by Peter Woo, a Chinese entrepreneur, who acquired the shares only a few weeks ago.

One of the reasons for initiating the IPO was to release funds for buying out family members who wish to sell their shares.

Massimo Ferragamo has already released his shares (approximately a third of the whole) to his siblings. He also stated his intention to resign from the Board of Directors.

Ferruccio Ferragamo also needs new funds to finance the company's expansion abroad and to invest in internationalisation.

Between 20 and 30 per cent of the fashion house will go public. "In spite of the earthquake in Japan with its consequences and the uncertain international geopolitical situation, we want to take our chances with the stock exchange after having prepared for three years. I think it's the right time to do so, and Milan is the right stage for us as an Italian company," says President Ferragamo, explaining his stock market plans.

The well-known exclusive shoe manufacturer Salvatore Ferragamo, who gave Roman dolce vita a hint of luxury in the '50s with his finely made shoes, has now expanded his range of shoes and accessories to readyto-wear collections (women's, men's and children's fashions). In 2010 the Group had a turnover of 786.1 million euros, almost 25 per cent more than in the previous year.

Year for year, earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation (EBITDA) increased by 83 per cent to 113.1 million euros. In 2010 Ferragamo was once again in the black after having posted a loss of 14.7 million euros the previous year.

Down Set to Expand: Moncler. The Milanese fashion company Moncler also wants to go public on the Milan stock market by the middle of the year. 49 per cent of Moncler capital is controlled by Carlyle, a private equity company. A further 38 per cent is held by the Creative Director and company CEO Remo Ruffini, who acquired the fashion group in 2003 from Finpart, the stock exchange-listed fashion investment holding company teetering on the brink of bankruptcy. In just a few years, Ruffini managed to transform the padded Moncler down jackets into sought-after status symbols. In the meantime, the Italian fashion house has expanded its range of down jackets and sports fashions to include a summer collection for ladies and men. The turnover reached 428.7 million euros in 2010, 14 per cent more than in the previous year. The year for year EBITDA increased by almost a third to 102.1 million euros. The consolidated net profit climbed by 48 per cent to 52.2 million euros in 2010. The net liabilities were 142.7 million euros in the previous year. Within just a few years the company had increased the number of its own stores from five to 50. The revenue from the IPO is to be mostly used for expanding into the USA and Asia.

There is a possibility that over 50 per cent of the Moncler shares will be listed on the stock market. Marco De Benedetti, the European co-chef of the US investment company Carlyle, comments to journalists on the stock market listing: "The offer is open to both domestic and foreign institutional investors and private investors."

Analysts value the fashion company at around a billion euros.

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Classy, New (K)nitpickers Malo | Everything's new at Italian cashmere icon Malo: Owners, designers - it doesn't come as a surprise that all expansion systems are go for the Florence-based fashion label. Text: Thesy Kness-Bastaroli. Photo: Malo

The engineering trio of the new owner Evanthe and General Director Fabio Ducci want to return Malo to its previous strengths.

From left to right: Paolo Pratesi, Fabio Ducci, Giuseppe Polvani and Gianrico Specchio.

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tylist Guglielmo Capone wants to give Malo a younger look. The new Creative Director of the elegant knit label presented his first men's collection (autumn/winter 2011/12) in Florence in June. The first women's collection will follow at Milan Fashion Week in September.

In the past Capone had already worked for renowned fashion houses like Max Mara, Fendi and Les Copains. His mission at Malo consists of renewing the label and making it the "best in class." The goal is to make the cashmere collection an innovative cult product with new accessories in sublime colours. In doing so, the focus will be on quality, understatement and durability of the product.

"We're waiting for the new collection; Malo will have to lower its prices while maintaining its quality and new style," says the owner of Gemelli, the cult cashmere shop in Milan. For decades his product range included Malo, but he stopped ordering the label in 2010. Franco Gemelli reports that he is now eagerly awaiting the new collection.

The same goes for many European retailers: Those who count Malo amongst their pro-

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duct range love the label, and the retail trade also now believes this loyalty will be rewarded.

The Undertaking of New Owners. Almost a year ago Malo was acquired by retail developer Evanthe from the bankrupt estate of the fashion concern IT Holding, which was insolvent after posting a net loss of 10 million euros. Since that time, the buyers have developed ambitious plans. The sales volume is expected to rise from currently 27 million euros to 55 million euros by 2016. Six million euros are to be invested in the expansion and restructuring of the retail network.

At present Malo operates a total of 13 floor spaces, five of which are found outside of Italy. The expansion is also focused on the franchise stores. The number of franchises is expected to be tripled from the current five.

Managing Director Giovanni Polvani has described his plans to solidify the label's presence in Eastern Europe, France, India and the Middle East and to restructure its wholesale network.

The Florence-based fashion label Malo was founded in 1972. After a steep climb and

success as an elegant label in the booming '80s and '90s, things abruptly took a turn for the worse for the company. Malo began to lose its appeal once IT Holding acquired the knitwear label in 1999 and changed over to a complete line.

Giovanni Polvani and his partners Gianrico Specchio and Paolo Pratesi, the trio of engineers, currently hold an 80 per cent stake in Malo; General Director Fabio Ducci owns the remaining 20 per cent. All have experience in the high-end sector: Giovanni Polvani and his partners worked for years at the upper management level of the fashion giant Prada before going independent in 2005 and founding Evanthe. The company specialises in outfitting high-end businesses.

Fabio Ducci made a name for himself as a manager at Helmuth Lang.

Malo was founded in Florence in 1972 and quickly rose to become one of the best-known labels for luxury cashmere. The label was taken over by IT Holding in 1999 and sold to Evanthe in October 2010. The first collection under the new management will be presented for autumn/winter 2011/12. www.malo.it

This is how a collector's wardrobe looks. Lesly Remy doesn't just horde his treasures â&#x20AC;&#x201C; he also wears them.

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CONCEPT 067

Mister Black Lauren Lesly Remy has been collecting clothing by Ralph Lauren since 1996. He is intimately familiar with the history of a fashion subculture that has its roots in gangs, hip-hop music and mainstream tastes in clothing. Text: Petra Engelke. Photos: Ashley DuPree

H

e calls himself Mr. Black Lauren, sleeps in Ralph Lauren bed linens and, as soon as he wakes up, reflects on which brands of the Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation he is going to wear for the day.

Lesly Remy is a fan. But the 30 year old engineer from Long Island is certainly not alone: Back in the mid-'80s, the luxury brand's products were already popular in certain neighbourhoods of Brooklyn – not so much among the well-to-do white Americans who characterise the brand's image, but among blacks from socially deprived areas.

"This culture developed during the era of Reaganomics, cocaine and crack. You really had to be somebody to wear this brand, a gangster, a drug dealer, someone who earned a lot of money really fast," says Remy.

The ghetto kids were attracted to the colourful look of Polo sportswear. But most important of all, Ralph Lauren's style and history perfectly embodies the longing for social advancement. The designer came from a humble background in the Bronx and developed a vision for how rich people live. In the poor neighbourhoods of Brooklyn, guys who wore Polo shirts were the ones everyone looked up to – and people knew not to mess with them. In the mid-'80s, one gang called itself Ralphie's Kids, while another went by

the name Polo USA (United Shoplifter Association), and the two groups later merged to form the Lo Lifes. Gangster rappers like Wu-Tang Clan wore Polo, always two sizes too big, making these ghetto stars the ones who decided which articles would achieve cult status. This hype faded into obscurity until rapper, singer and producer legend Kanye West appeared in a photo shoot wearing Ralph Lauren – and pink pullover shirts became the latest style for tough kids from the 'hood.

Collecting According to the Noah's Ark Principal. Remy has never been a gangster,

but he still hasn't purchased many of the articles in his collection: "We collectors prefer to trade. That's how things work in a subculture. But just because it has the right label doesn't mean by a long shot that I would wear it," he says.

He collects according to the Noah's Ark principle. For example, he has three blazers, each one in a different kind of tweed. He has two pairs of chinos, one front-pocket and one cargo. And if friends should invite him to go on a skiing holiday or – even more obscure – a hunting trip, he'll show up completely decked out in Ralph Lauren duds. "Your big moment could come any

time," says Remy, "and you'll want to be perfectly dressed." Remy recalls an advertisement from the early '80s with a man wearing a tuxedo and sitting in a Jeep in the woods: You have to appreciate the contrast between these two images to combine a Chambray denim shirt, a bow-tie and a blazer – along with jeans and loafers.

He's working on a one million dollar collection. His current gem is a Polo Indian Head sweater that he found for seven dollars in a second-hand shop. This used sweater even had a hole! Nevertheless, Remy knows enough about tailoring to judge whether it was worth buying. He had the pullover mended at the Ralph Lauren flagship store, and his bargain-bin discovery ended up netting him a cool 350 dollars on eBay. His dream would be to work in Lauren's archive.

After all, he certainly knows the company's design history. "I know that Ralph checks everything before it's released, so sometimes I have to think: 'Are you serious? You thought that would be a good idea?'" he chuckles.

"Sometimes you have to say that. But he usually hits the spot." lookbook.nu/mrblacklauren mrblacklauren.tumblr.com

One of each kind: Mister Black Lauren has just the right clothes for every occasion – naturally from Ralph Lauren.

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Quest for Change - Japan's Lessons from 3/11 On 11 March 2011 the lights went out, literally, in Tokyo's foremost shopping districts, but a few weeks later Japan's fashion metropolis was back in business. Despite temporary setbacks, industry experts reckon that emerging changes in consumer values and in communication and collaboration models will benefit the industry in the long-run.

Text: Alena Eckelmann. Photos: Antony Tran

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our Zero. At 2.46 pm Japan's Eastern section was struck by a magnitude 9 earthquake, followed immediately by a massive tsunami and subsequently by a nuclear disaster. Up to 23 metre high waves swept away everything in their wake along the 500 kilometre stretch of East Japan's coastline. Over 15,000 people perished in the flood, more than 5,000 were injured and over 8,500 are still not accounted for.

As the earthquake struck, public transportation in the whole of Tokyo stopped completely.

In the weeks thereafter, the city's usually crowded boulevards, department stores and shopping areas became deserted like in a ghost city.

Department Stores Hit Hard. In the

Fashion Brands Support Relief and Recovery. People in the West of Japan,

Select Shops Doing OK. Select shops and stores that are less dependent on foreign shoppers and foot traffic didn't fare as badly.

Wut Berlin, a select shop in Tokyo's trendy Omotesando area that represents seven young Berliner designers (not all German) and the Berlin Fashion Flair was closed for four days since the Japanese president of the company didn't deem it safe to open for business; however, for the remainder of March they recorded their best sales ever.

"Students were on holiday. They didn't understand what was going on and were bored.

So they came here to de-stress and spent on clothes," says Yann Le GoĂŤc, French Director and Buyer at Wut Berlin (part of H.P. France S.A.) and a ten year resident in Japan. Wut Berlin's customers are 18 to 35 years old and 70 per cent are regulars.

united with the world community at large, have been rallying their support through generous donations and charity campaigns.

Many celebrities and fashion brands participated in the "Pray for Japan" campaign to raise funds for the earthquake and tsunami victims.

Japan's fashion industry has donated large amounts of money and goods in support of relief efforts. To name a few, Louis Vuitton donated 500 million yen (about 4,3 million euros) to the Japan Red Cross for the earthquake victims. GAP Japan donated 16 million yen (136,000 euros) and 130,000 pieces of warm clothes. Uniqlo donated 1,4 billion yen (almost 12 million euros) and 850,000 pieces of warm clothes.

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weeks after 3/11 many Japanese consumers refrained from going out and shopping. A mood of self-restraint (jishuku in Japanese) kept shoppers away. This is the way people in Tokyo express their solidarity with the victims.

With an impending nuclear crisis caused by the damage to the Fukushima nuclear power plant, a great number of foreign workers and residents fled the country and foreign visitors cancelled their trips to Japan.

As a result, overall sales at department stores in Japan decreased by 14.7 per cent in March, according to the Japan Department Store Association. Tokyo recorded a decrease of 21.5 per cent and even in faraway Osaka, department store sales declined by 3.2 per cent.

Wut Berlin works with foreign designers who are now worried whether Japanese buyers will be able to buy and pay for the winter collection. In fact, cash flow is a real problem for many Japanese clothes shops and department stores now. The most important month in the spring season is March when the new collection arrives and shops sell the most. However, this year sales margins were seriously reduced.

"Many shops have a lot of stock left because they couldn't sell. If they don't recover fast, then they won't be able to buy collections from designers for the next seasons to come.

In any case, they'll only buy what they think they can sell and won't go for a challenge and buy new designs," says Le GoĂŤc.

In the medium-term Wut Berlin is intensifying sales activities in Osaka as consumers in Tokyo are still considered moody and depressed and continue to practice self-restraint.

Setbacks for Designers. The 12th Japan Fashion Week (JFW), which was scheduled to take place from 18 to 25 March 2011 in Tokyo with over 30 young designers signed up, was cancelled. One of them was Kiyonori Nemoto who had launched his original high-end women's fashion label androgyne in 2010. He planned to exhibit his Urban Elegance collection aimed at business women and celebrities in their thirties and forties for the first time at JFW. As he was preparing his collection and samples for the show, the earthquake hit.

"My embroiderer had electricity shortages and couldn't produce samples. The ironing

"Fashion has the power to make people happy and help them regain their strength." Kiyonori Nemoto, designer

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070 CONCEPT

"3/11 is no excuse for declining sales. Most retailers and makers are affected because they didn't produce quality products in the first place." Seishi Tanaka, designer and owner TST

"Some companies have moved to West Japan and business in Osaka is going well now. We should not get panicked by this, but we have to move on and reactivate Tokyo's fashion industry. It's easy to run away, but it's not a good solution."

Takashi Mori, designer

company I was using went out of business when their creditors went bankrupt. All my supplies suddenly stopped. I couldn't prepare for the show anyway," he says.

Advertisers, just like consumers, now practice self-restraint out of respect for the victims of the earthquake and tsunami. This has led to a sharp decline in commercials and adverts seen on TV, in magazines and on public transport.

Nemoto, who has no shop of his own yet, offers his collection on an online shopping mall; however, the owner of the mall has banned sending advertisements and sales emails to customers until further notice.

Soma Design, representing the Somarta and Molfic labels, was also a candidate for the 2011 JFW. "We had ordered materials for our labels from sewing factories located in areas affected by the tsunami. For a while we were totally out of touch with them. Their computer systems were blocked, there was no electricity at the factories and logistics were crushed. We couldn't get any supplies," says Tamae Hirokawa, Designer of Somarta, a women's fashion label, and Director of Soma Design. Somarta's concept is designing a second skin for women in their thirties.

Soma Design's sales of the 2011 spring/summer collection were not affected since all the items had already been delivered to buyers in Japan before 3/11; however, the designers had hoped to acquire new clients at JFW, especially buyers from Asia, and that has become impossible.

Hirokawa organised a private show in Tokyo's hip Daikanyama district to make up for the missed chance. Usually her shows take place 411 style in progress

in a large hall without windows where artificial light and digital sound systems are used but this time was very different.

"I rented a small gallery with large windows.

We used only natural light and piano and violin music performed live for shows during the daytime and we divided guests into three time slots. This way we saved electricity and created a gentle and soothing atmosphere to remove anxiety," explains Hirokawa who was surprised to see that this concept actually worked out well.

Finding Opportunities in Adversity.

The cancellation of the JFW was initially a setback for Nemoto, but he soon realised that 3/11 events could ultimately work in his favour. His androgyne label is based on the concept of environmental conservation and recycling. The designer takes leftover fabric clippings and embroiders them to produce materials of new value. "There was not much interest in my eco concept when I launched the label last year, but since March this year I see an increase in enquiries," he says.

The recent events also confirmed Molfic designer Takashi Mori's concept of using lightweight and functional synthetic materials, as are used for camping in the mountains, for his men's collections.

"Many people who lost their houses live in shelters now. They need blankets to keep warm, but conventional blankets are very heavy and bulky. Synthetic materials, on the other hand, are light, space-saving and effective. They are the material of the future," Mori thinks.

3/11 also showed the value of social media for direct and instant communication when mobile phones didn't work and Japanese people began to appreciate and use Twitter and Facebook. They woke up to the realisation that mass media is now controlling information as much as Japan's consumer magazines used to control fashion taste and shopping behaviour before.

"Diversity in the media and fashion is very important and they go hand in hand. Fashion magazines decline not only because of the proliferation of the internet, but because people realise that there was no uniqueness, no individuality and no diversity in them," says Mori.

Changing Values. Fast fashion has seen

a boom in Japan in the last few years and Japanese consumers got used to buying cheap items produced abroad. In the meantime Japan's textile manufacturers went out of business as production shifted to China and other Asian countries. No one cared until 3/11 instilled a new pride in "Made in Japan" again.

"When many factories in Eastern Japan, including many textile factories, were swept away by the tsunami, we realised that this could be the final stroke to destroy once and for all the 'Made in Japan' image, which had stood internationally for safe and reliable quality products. We didn't want this to happen," says Masaaki Sakaguchi, fashion industry expert and Consultant at Synergies Planning Co. Ltd. Quality pays and it even outlasts a natural disaster. The Tokyo employees of TST Foot-

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072 CONCEPT

"People's sense of value is changing now. They learn to appreciate more what they have and the quality of it.

The current period is very tough, but it's a turning point and people start thinking differently." Tamae Hirokawa, owner of Soma Design and designer for Somarta.

"Japanese consumers were very materialistic.

They just wanted to buy and they didn't care where things came from.

After 3/11 people started questioning their behaviour and searching their hearts about whether this was really how they wanted to live." Masaaki Sakaguchi, fashion expert and Consultant for Synergies Planning Co. Ltd.

"We're in recovery mode, but we're still here. Things will get back to normal after two or three seasons. Tokyo will continue to be the centre of Japan's fashion industry. Stop worrying about us." Yann Le GoĂŤc, owner and buyer for Wut Berlin

wear, a premium footwear brand launched in Europe in 2002 and in Japan in 2005, were amongst those who walked home from the office for two consecutive days. This is when they learned to appreciate the premium quality of the shoes that they had been selling.

"My employees didn't really believe in the quality of my products, but if you have to walk over 10 kilometres, you will know the difference between quality shoes and cheap shoes," says Seishi Tanaka, Designer of TST Footwear and President/CEO of Tanaka Universal Co.Ltd. The cult footwear designer thinks that the recent triple disaster should not have a direct impact on sales. "3/11 is only an excuse for those whose business had already been declining. Quality products will always sell.

Volume sales and market share is a thing of the '80s. What's important is quality and customer care," he states. The TST Footwear brand targets fashionable people in their twenties to fifties. 85 per cent of customers are multi-brand stores.

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Facing the Future. Over the years sales of luxury brands and imported brands have seen a constant decline in Japan. International brand owners turn away from Japan and focus more on selling in Asia. Japanese brands and designers go to Paris to show their collections as foreign buyers are increasingly shunning Japan. European designers are more interested in buyers from Hong Kong, China, Taiwan and Korea.

There is a danger that 3/11 will accelerate these tendencies.

Sakaguchi, who is also the Vice-President of the Textile Designer Association of Japan, believes that all is not lost for Japan yet. He advocates collaboration as the way forward.

"It's not a question of buy and sell anymore, but of creating together. Europe is also not so innovative now and many good concept and product ideas are generated in Japan. To make it a better future for everyone, there must be better communication and more collaboration in apparel, textile and design," he says.

The keen fashion industry observer thinks that 3/11 has brought the world closer together. Japanese people are now more connected to the world via Twitter and Facebook, there is more people-to-people communication and interaction. "Japanese designers should market themselves directly to buyers and editors of fashion magazines. We don't need middlemen anymore," he adds.

In the aftermath of 3/11, people across the globe shared information and their feelings openly. In Japan once materialistic people now even share their possessions and their space with the victims of the earthquake and tsunami, something that was not imaginable before 3/11.

"Once distant people become friends and they co-create. This is the communication and collaboration model for the future.

Why not use it in the fashion industry?" www.androgyne.jp, www.somadesign.jp www.wutberlin.com, www.tanaka-u.co.jp, www.molfic.jp, www.j-fashion.cocolog-nifty.com

076 OPINION

"A T-Shirt Will Get 20 to 25 Per Cent More Expensive" Rising raw material prices, higher labour costs, more freight charges: Fashion manufacturers are faced with ever-growing challenges, and a major one is the question of whether the endless search for the best production conditions is compatible with the consciousness of enlightened consumers. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Yorick Carroux

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low-cost providers first and foremost. This trend will move from one manufacturer to the next. Vertical suppliers will suffer the most, but they'll also be the ones that find the quickest way out. Suppliers of labels and brands will take a somewhat different approach and rely on materials or product mixes.

volumes and the corresponding prices. And wages are increasing as well. We can't avoid this in the production of functional clothing, because there are no producers in Europe that will meet our requirements, let alone any that have the machinery needed to do so. We'll have to remain in China with this part of the collection and just grin and bear the rising prices. We're trying to absorb the prices ourselves, but at some point this will affect consumers as well. For us, Made in China doesn't necessarily mean a cheap product.

Stephan Huber: Meindl is also affected by this despite the fact that it has no production in the Far East.

Hans Taubenberger, Managing Director of Toni Sailer Sports: The mid-price range will

Markus Meindl, Managing Director of Meindl Bekleidung: The Chinese market

also face problems. Locations like China are profiting, as they're now able to demand

now plays a major role. There's enormous demand for raw materials for its own

tephan Huber, Editor-in-Chief style in progress: In fashion, anything

that can get more expensive does: production, raw materials, transport and labour costs. What effects will this have and who will this trend mainly impact?

Robert Stรถckl, Regional Vice President of EMEA Lacoste Footwear: It'll impact

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OPINION 077

What will happen if the prices of raw materials rise by up to 150 per cent? style in progress Editor-in-Chief Stephan Huber talked with Markus Funder, Better Rich, Markus Meindl, Meindl Bekleidung, Hans Taubenberger, Toni Sailer Sports, and Robert Stรถckl, Lacoste Footwear.

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078 OPINION

market. You just have to imagine that if everyone in China were to buy a pair of leather shoes - it would be absolutely impossible to achieve. But: They have money in their pockets and a desire to buy – and not just shoes. Bags, jackets, cosmetics and cars with leather seats - all are factors that play into the rising price of raw materials.

And the consumer ultimately ends up paying for it. Base prices are changing, and those in the lower segment will have problems here with quality and trust. Because it's easier to justify prices in the premium segment.

Markus Funder, Product Manager of Better Rich: Will end consumers still pay?

What if they refuse? What if they consume less than before? We have to ask ourselves, what options do we have to keep the price relatively smooth?

Hans Taubenberger: The most important thing for us is to ensure our standard of quality. China has seen enormous investment in the last few years - in new machines and thereby in the optimisation of technical processes as well. We don't have an alternative.

Markus Meindl: For us, that was always the reason to maintain our production location.

We've equipped ourselves with the right technology and invested in our employees, which wasn't cheap, but was well worth the expense.

Hans Taubenberger: In our case, there's no one else in Europe that can meet our quality standards. In China, they've invested the last few years in optimising technical processes such as welding, edging, bonding, etc.

Robert Stöckl: That's also an asset for the Asians, this expertise. One of the biggest problems lies amongst themselves: Workers with skills are immediately lured away. In order to avoid this, they're monitored and not released. They're pampered, because just out the door there's another company with a check.

Markus Meindl: It's exactly the same for us; we've invested not just in machinery, but also in manpower. We support and promote those seamstresses that have any skills at all.

Chinese plants today also have specially trained workers, which isn't the case for us.

The trend now is to bring these Chinese workers to Italy or Romania, where a lot of Italians are building plants.

Stephan Huber: This means that the media's portrayal of China as a country of cheap products no longer rings true especially in the textile division.

Hans Taubenberger: There are chains in China that can make 20,000 pieces of one down jacket. Who among us can do that?

We don't have these volumes, but most Chinese suppliers are still interested only in volumes or high-quality ready-made clothing.

Robert Stöckl: We have two per cent of our production in China, only in the top411 style in progress

top shoes, because we have the best people working on them there. We have relocated the rest to other Asian countries. We're also trying to use training courses to explain that Made in China doesn't mean that we just throw together a cheap product; some of the manufacturers on site have invested a great deal. The assumed crisis has jumbled the entire thing once again. Manufacturers that aren't any good are broke, and the good ones have so many contracts they don't know what to do. You're lucky to find one available for production.

Stephan Huber: Is the European fashion industry now in a state of dependence?

Markus Funder: 60 per cent of the world's textile production comes from China.

We're not talking about raw materials; we're talking about other sorts of dependency. We're under a certain amount of pressure, regardless of the area, be it cotton or copper. China is able to say: We're in a great market in which billions of people want to buy. Do you want in? If not, we can also sanction you. The government is quite strong and ensures that everything is nice and regulated. The high price of cotton also has to do with the fact that the Chinese government wants to see it high and supports it accordingly. This will regulate itself in the near future. But we won't come back to the point where we want to be. In other words, China is powerful.

Stephan Huber: What are the effects for a collection like Better Rich, which sees itself as commercial in the premium division?

Markus Funder: When it comes to cotton, we purchase our raw materials mainly from China. India hasn't deregulated, and Pakistan hasn't been able to supply any goods due to flooding - but those aren't the only reasons why prices have risen by nearly 150 per cent. It also has to do with the fact that our suppliers today have a choice - they can simply raise prices by a percentage that is not exactly low.

Stephan Huber: What kind of impact do these increases have on the average consumer? What does it mean in figures for a T-shirt?

Markus Funder: That first raises the question: What percentage of the price is comprised of the raw materials? It's clear that the raw material doesn't make up 100 per cent of the wholesale price, but it can be up to 40 per cent. If the price rises by 150 per cent, this increase has to be passed on or compensated. The big question mark is: How will the end consumer react once the next collection is delivered, especially if that collection has already seen a price increase?

In Germany, anything goes if it fits in with the consumer climate, but in other countries this doesn't work quite so well. They're already at the end of the price spiral and then along comes another increase. How will consumers react when they're already struggling with inflation right now? They have

nothing left in their wallets, but they still want to consume. It puts them in a bad mood. In Germany we've successfully weathered the crisis through consumption, which was atypical. But now I wonder whether the end consumer will be able to stomach even more.

Stephan Huber: What exactly are we talking about in terms of price increases?

Markus Funder: A T-shirt will definitely get to be 20 to 25 per cent more expensive. And this will also strengthen the competition, because instead of three expensive jackets, only two will be sold.

Robert Stöckl: I'm of the opinion that the consumer is insanely resistant and will put up with it. We've all stomached the price increases seen in restaurants since the introduction of the euro, for example. The situation here will be similar. Cars are also a good example. You could say that the rates of increase for small cars have been extreme, but people continue to buy them anyway.

Markus Meindl: It's harder with clothing, because a look is much more democratic.

Today you can really look fantastic with just a few things.

Robert Stöckl: In the discussion as a whole, you also have to look at the social factor; the gap between rich and poor has widened to an extreme degree. Those who earn enough will also buy high-quality goods, because they maybe deal with it in an entirely different way and have good arguments to convince themselves to spend money. Others can or will just window shop.

Hans Taubenberger: When it comes to a high-quality product with added value, then it makes little difference whether you're buying into the label's image or its actual added value. But when a commodity like a T-shirt costs twice as much, it's an entirely different story.

Stephan Huber: Psychology is an important factor in consumption, above all when it has to do with things that people don't need at the end of the day.

Robert Stöckl: I also think there are far too many suppliers in the shoe and textile sectors. Of course, I don't want to wish any of them away, but there are far too many brands and labels.

Markus Meindl: Thank God there are now people who inform themselves and say 'I'm not going to buy that, because I know where it comes from. I don't have to pay 129 euros for a polo shirt that comes from China.'

Markus Funder: But we shouldn't make generalisations here. Apple, for example, has great success with Made in China. The country also offers really good high-tech production plants. When the topic of China comes up, we're usually talking about volume and low prices. When we hear Made in Italy, we think of the attempt to gold-plate everything. Operations are coming back to Italy, and manufacturing is of course also getting more expensive, so that they can to

080 OPINION

"Europe also has another problem: There's a void in terms of training." Markus Meindl, Managing Director of Meindl Bekleidung

say: 'We're against mass consumption and productio, so we have to require more.' The fact that this won't work for some Italians is because they just want to sew on Made in Italy labels, but that's another discussion.

Stephan Huber: In the food sector, we've already seen a trend reversal in the direction of conscious consumption. A lot of consumers today have sustainability factors in mind when shopping. So with this going on, isn't there a chance to reshape how we communicate clothing?

Robert Stรถckl: This conscious consumption is a reality and the numbers are growing, but slowly. The willingness to take this into account and to be informed is growing, albeit at a snail's pace. Using our products as an example: three years ago we launched a collection using sustainable materials, and publicised it with the best marketing possible.

But commercially it had to be canned.

So sustainability means improving the conditions for mass production, but our 411 style in progress

"For us, Made in China doesn't necessarily mean a cheap product." Hans Taubenberger, Managing Director of Toni Sailer Sports

experience has shown that the end customer is still not willing to support this.

Stephan Huber: Where did fashion fail?

Robert Stรถckl: It's not emphasised. I think even the smallest improvements are worthy of recognition.

Markus Meindl: The clothing industry has done a lot of things wrong in this respect.

Everyone now would be happy to have this quality production in Europe. If we only work for profit or to please shareholders, there's usually no going back. I once heard very wise words from a major textile manufacturer, who had converted his company into a stock corporation. He said his greatest wish would be to go back to working without shareholders and to keep his company nice and dignified. He regretted what he had done. I'd like it if my son continued my work one day. Why shouldn't we still be here in 30 years? The development is brilliant and I don't want to sell it to just anybody or to some chain.

Stephan Huber: In my view, the biggest

problem lies in reducing clothing to a disposable item. From the marketing perspective the co-operation between H&M and Lagerfeld and associates is brilliant, but consumers ended up thinking that Chanel is really just a rip-off, since Lagerfeld actually only costs 49.90 euros.

Markus Meindl: That's the inanity of the fashion industry. The customer is spoiled.

Stephan Huber: Let's get to the massive planning uncertainty. What has changed the most in the last ten years?

Hans Taubenberger: Ten years goes too far back: The last two years have required massive changes, and there will be more in the next year. The availability of capacities, production, materials and even the contract periods for the materials have changed drastically. Before, materials were available in three months. Now we have to plan six months in advance. If I were to wait until after the close of orders to determine volumes,

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082 OPINION

Has Europe's textile industry become so dependent on producers in the Far East that the whims of the raw materials market are also one of the many challenges to be faced? The roundtable discussion takes up this question head-on.

I wouldn't even be able to deliver in December. This will get even worse next season: I'll have to reserve the materials in September, before the collection is even ready. The increase in demand has resulted in lead times that we almost can't deal with any more.

As a manufacturer, there's a lot more risk.

Stephan Huber: Is it possible that this will prompt manufacturers to bring their production back to Europe at some point?

Hans Taubenberger: Just to make it clear: we produce in Asia because there's no one left in Europe that can offer the technology and function. We produce everything else, like fleece, underwear, accessories and knitted caps, in Europe.

Stephan Huber: Could producers like you hypothetically say: 'I'll build a production location in Romania?'

Hans Taubenberger: You'd have to bring all of the machinery over, and probably the workforce as well. I'm not sure it's conceivable, because the primary materials also 411 style in progress

come from Asia, so they'd have to be flown out in order to then ship them all over the world - that's not sustainable.

Markus Meindl: It would almost be impossible to go back, not just because the suppliers are all over there and it would require an extreme degree of investment. Europe also has another problem: There's a void in terms of training, since nothing has been done here in 20 years. There are still 60 year olds with good sewing skills, and maybe now a couple of 20 year olds who have just finished school.

Robert Stรถckl: And then there's the question of whether young people would want to go back into these careers.

Markus Meindl: A new regulation was introduced in Europe on 1 May that makes it possible to bring people in from Hungary, Poland, etc. At the moment we have seamstresses from the Czech Republic, which is the only option for us given the lack of qualified workers here at home.

Stephan Huber: How is the retail trade

actually reacting to the developments?

Markus Meindl: The retail trade hasn't complained, since it knows that prices will climb.

Robert Stรถckl: Here's something we haven't talked about at all: Percentage-wise, the highest costs come from transporting the goods. This is also a factor that will rise.

Stephan Huber: Freight costs, simply put, depend on distance. So I'm asking again: Would it make sense to move production back to Europe?

Robert Stรถckl: Freight costs probably aren't yet high enough to go ahead with that. But it's happening. We're trying to regain a foothold in Europe for smaller lines, in Portugal or Spain for example. And we're not the first.

Markus Meindl: It comes down to building up capacities.

Robert Stรถckl: Exactly. It takes time to train people, to buy the machinery... That doesn't

OPINION 083

"If the price rises by 150 per cent, this increase has to be passed on or compensated." Markus Funder, Product Manager of Better Rich

even happen overnight in Asia. We're currently entering into a lot of co-operations with producers and committing to working together the next few years. This also gives them security to invest, since there is always competition in Asia. Their motto is: 'Who can do it even cheaper?' Our partnerships now also guarantee us the quantities, since we're seeing more and more that brands with potentially large orders don't find producers.

Hans Taubenberger: I think there are a lot of manufacturers that still haven't recognised the difficulties in the situation.

They don't react in time, don't reserve ahead of time, and then there are problems.

Many have no clue what to expect in the next season and the one after that. Fundamentally, everything has changed. We know from the delivery situation last year that anything coming from Asia was generally late. Major companies usually have to get their winter goods in September, but

"Sustainability means improving the conditions for mass production." Robert Stรถckl, Regional Vice President EMEA Lacoste Footwear

some competitors didn't receive theirs until November.

Markus Funder: There can be snags anywhere. Even if you've found halfwaydecent producers, they may have offered their goods to so many potential buyers that nothing at all comes of it. And then you're left with a total loss. Or the supplier manipulates you and you don't get the standard of quality that you want. No one should constantly try to establish new partnerships, since they're more important than ever.

The tables have turned in the last two years, and now the customers are under pressure.

Earlier we could exert pressure just by saying: 'It's all too expensive - you'll have to reduce it by half, or there won't be anything at all.' Now the pressure is a boomerang.

The industry is saying 'You can have your order at our conditions, or you can keep looking.' But in a time when money's being made, genuine partnerships mean giving the other party the opportunity to participate

and not simply to say: 'Maybe we can get a bit more out of this.'

Markus Meindl: Partnerships are definitely the most important thing; trust has to be mutual. We've worked with some tanneries for over 50 years. They've grown with us and today operate year-round at over 100 per cent capacity - in good times and in bad.

There were also years in which we stockpiled the raw materials in order to use these tanneries to capacity. That's how I view a partnership, but these types of relationships have been disregarded in the last 20 years.

Hans Taubenberger: The partnership has to be with the supplier, the sub-contractors, the producer and even the retail trade. Forward-looking customers are also looking for the right partnerships with the supplier.

Everyone has to do their part: the retail trade, by looking for partnerships and making it possible for us to reserve the capacities in a timely manner. We really have to work together. style in progress 411

084 OPINION

The shoe at the height of awareness: Seldom was an accessory so completely in the limelight, never was it so desirable and powerful â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all about the perfection or destruction of an outfit.

411 style in progress

OPINION 085

Shoe Stories FASHION DISCOURSE | Shoes are versatile products, serving as accessories, functional or otherwise, as well as sales generators and outfit makers. These days, there is more fashion awareness of shoes than ever before, and a flurry of new brands has rushed to meet the demand. Fashionable footwear is a must-have item for consumers. And the trends continue to evolve. At the same time, there is a renewed emphasis on quality, craftsmanship and a focus on the product. What is the current fashion status of shoes?

Have they reached their peak? Do shoes determine the fashions or do fashions still determine what shoe to wear? How important is the role of brands? How much personality should each shoe have? Will rising leather prices and production costs put the brakes on the current upswing in shoe sales? Or is the price range for the right product still open at the top?

Text: Karolina Landowski.

Illustration: Sarah Egbert Eiersholt.

Photos: Brands

Rupert Sanderson Peter Herkenrath

Less is More

Head and Foot

Rupert Sanderson Designer and Founder of the luxury shoe brand Rupert Sanderson

Peter Herkenrath Owner of Herkenrath 1873

"F

ootwear has a large place and significance in fashion. The numerous collaborations between footwear designers and fashion designers are exciting to see and to be a part of. I don't believe that the peak has been reached yet. Footwear is and will continue to be, relevant in fashion. I don't think that one defines the other. Footwear designers, as well as fashion designers, translate their inspirations into their designs. And for that reason each collection, whether shoes or clothing, is unique to that designer.

My design principle has always been "less is more." Great silhouettes, line and material.

I've always believed in taking things away from my shoes as opposed to adding to them.

This keeps the design as pure as possible. I like the woman to wear the shoe and not the other way round. The Rupert Sanderson brand tries to appeal to a woman of substance. This woman is not prepared to be led around by the nose with the glossy, celeb-involved marketing of the big brands as she is a bit more considered. She likes the fact that there are now shoe brands where the designer named on the shoe has designed every stitch of every shoe.

I think drama and sexiness of a shoe is achieved through the cut, line and silhouette - the simplicity, rather than the "frilly bits." A shoe can have the most intricate designs and still fit comfortably and beautifully. In this instance the way that a shoe is made can influence the fit and functionality of any design. Rupert Sanderson is a rare beast. We are one of the only shoe brands where you can guarantee every shoe is made in our own factory, in a little village in Italy. It used to be like that years ago and I had the privilege of working with some of the old family-run businesses where the bottom line was about beautiful shoes and skilled, happy artisans.

The design and importance of how shoes can make a woman feel are my passion."

hoes are every bit as important as "S fashion. It's not until you have the right shoe that an outfit is literally perfect.

The perfect shoes improve the figure and give wearers the appearance that they want.

Shoes have definitely not yet peaked since they reinvent themselves with every new fashion. As a result, there is no set time span.

Clothing and shoe fashions are always complementary parts of the wearer's overall appearance. There's not just one specific fashion, but a variety that everyone can use to characterise their own style. The condition is that the wearer has settled on a style, uses current fashion to enhance it, and then puts together their outfit. The brand is derived from the wearer's demands in terms of quality and appearance. Every shoe that's purchased should provide a comfortable fit.

Nothing devalues the overall picture so much as poorly fitting shoes, regardless of whether they are flat shoes or high heels. A well-made shoe is a work of art. If it gapes to the side or flaps, it destroys the entire appearance. The wrong shoe has no personality and that has nothing to do with the shoe, but with the wrong choice. Since feet are different, not every shoe can fit every foot. If a designer doesn't have a good craftsman who can implement his ideas and designs, it's impossible to create a good shoe. I'd say that a good design, with highquality materials and a skilled craftsman, will always lead to an ideal solution for every foot. Unfortunately, this combination is becoming increasingly rare. Shoes have to fit our feet, and not just match our notions of fashion."

Peter Herkenrath is the Managing Director of Herkenrath 1873, a family shoe business with 135 years of history now managed by the fifth generation. High-quality women's and men's shoes are sold at the two branch stores in Cologne and D端sseldorf. www.herkenrath1873.de

Rupert Sanderson Sanderson is one of the hottest shoe designers in the UK. After completing his studies at London's prestigious Cordwainers College, he learned the trade from Sergio Rossi und Bruno Magli in Bologna and founded his own shoe brand in 2001. He has his own stores in London, Paris and Hong Kong. www.rupertsanderson.com

style in progress 411

086 OPINION

Rediscovery of Craftsmanship Sauro Doria International Sales Manager of Preventi

"T

hese days, shoes underscore and characterise an individual's overall style.

It's an art, however, to create a shoe with its own character and identity. The brand is only important when a shoe has the right design, quality and comfort. All of these factors characterise a shoe and its desirability. Maintaining a unique signature over several seasons is the key to a brand's longterm success. Without the designer's unique signature, the shoe has no soul and will never be a really distinctive product. It's sometimes very difficult when you follow a specific trend too closely, and comfort suffers as a result. Of course, price plays a important role at all levels these days, and there's no doubt that it's often very difficult to reconcile demands for high quality with the perfect price. However, there are constantly new opportunities to offer high quality at an affordable price. This is the greatest challenge facing designers and product managers.We believe that it's very important to rekindle an appreciation of craftsmanship and a brand's heritage. This particularly concerns the attitude and philosophy of the the product makers, who all have to have the same mindset. This is what characterises a brand. In our opinion, traditional shoe retail is losing its importance regarding all not purely need-oriented purchases. These days, customers want to be inspired and presented with an entire look, which naturally includes the right shoes.

There is no such thing as the perfect look with the wrong shoes."

Italy's Sauro Doria is the International Sales Manager directing the expansion of the Spanish shoe brand Preventi, a small shoemaking family business with a long tradition. For 40 years, Preventi handcrafted shoes for large designer labels before it started producing under its own name in 1990. Leather washed in a time-consuming process is a distinctive feature of these shoes. www.preventishoes.com

Accessory of the Moment

Back to the Roots

Paolo Gambato Designer of Philipp Model

Diego Rossetti Managing Director of Fratelli Rossetti

t the moment the shoe world is "A closely watched and is considered extremely important in our fashion world.

hoes are not just an accessory but are "S more and more considered the detail that can make the difference in the look.

It's more the shoe that dictates the fashion, but also fashion helps the shoe to be more complete overall. A brand is very important in footwear; that's what identifies a particular shoe, and what makes people talk about it. The criteria for the right shoe are recognisability and the sort of trade mark that every brand must have: In the case with Philippe Model, it is the shield on the side of the shoes, which represents the symbol of Paris. In my opinion the right shoe stands out on the right person who is wearing it and who knows how to interpret the style and overall look in the right way.

At times I see people with shoes that aren't right for them, that don't truly represent the person wearing them. I always made shoes taking in consideration the culture and location of where theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re made. My last project with Philippe Model was entirely in the Venice area with a certain ethic and culture for making shoes. In general I think we are already feeling the crisis a little in Europe and the USA due to the always climbing prices.

But I also believe that if it's the accessory or textile piece of the moment, prices won't curb the fashion upwind. In my opinion the market is changing and will divide in two separate groups. The first group will be the people who buy whatever is the latest trend, regardless of where and how the shoes were made, and who only look at the price and the shoemaker. The second group will be very careful and pay attention to detail, quality and heritage of the brand. Anything in the middle will suffer strongly."

Even if footwear is an important part of the fashion world, I believe it has its own life.

There is certainly a fashion influence when it comes to seasonal colours, but in terms of shape, footwear sets its own rules. In our particular case, we don't like to follow trends too much. I think we're recognized for our serious, updated, refined and understated style. We always pay attention to the evolution of shoes, introducing innovative elements and techniques, without foregoing our heritage. The right shoe is the result of perfect balance between tradition and innovation. In our case, brand is very important since it testifies to our heritage. Fratelli Rossetti was founded in 1953 by my father Renzo Rossetti. We still make our shoes the way he did: in the old traditional way with more than 150 steps, most of which are done by hand although the factory boasts the very latest equipment and organizational style.

The magic of a good pair of shoes has to do with many small details and the most important are the hidden ones. Today customers look for values such as tradition, heritage and solidness. People are more aware of the importance of contents and high quality.

This is change that effect their lives in a positive sense, so I don't think this can be just a temporary trend. The prices of footwear will be more frequently defined by the quality values of the shoes, more than anything else."

Italian designer Paolo Gambato joined forces with France's creative genius Philippe Model to create the sneakers of the same name, which are currently experiencing some real hype. The highend models are handcrafted in Riviera del Brenta, Italy and are known for their unique washed character. www.philippemodel.com

Sauro Doria Paolo Gambato Diego Rossetti

411 style in progress

The traditional, family-run company Fratelli Rossetti, located in Parabiago near Milan, is one of the most important Italian shoe brands and stands for almost 60 years of style and quality.

Together with his brothers Dario and Luca, the Managing Director Diego Rossetti is bringing the business founded by his father into the future. www.fratellirossetti.com

www.swiss-chriss.ch

+39 02 255151.1

JACKETS

088 FASHION&INSPIRATION

LONDON Calling

Recognised around the world for it's directional and individual sense of style, London streets are where trends are set, not followed. The East London look relies heavily on vintage, mixed with some new but very classic British labels. Shoreditch is where the fashionable set promenade and designers come to draw inspiration.

411 style in progress

FASHION&INSPIRATION 089

Old Brands, New Tricks London Calling | Burberry, Barbour, Mackintosh, Jaeger, Norton & Sons...a roll call of British brands that have pulled themselves out of the doldrums. But is drawing on the one thing patriotic Brits love to talk about, their heritage, really enough to turn around an ailing brand's fortunes? Text: Alana Wallace. Photos: Hersteller

Royal wedding windows at iconic London department store Selfridges. Models act out the wedding breakfast live on Oxford Street.

B

rands, like people, have cycles. Much as Madonna once reinvented herself on a weekly basis, ailing brands are using reinvention to regain market share.

But nobody does it like the British; just look at Gap's failed attempt as an example of how not to re-brand. British labels have bona fide history to flaunt, and more often than not there's a hot new creative director at the helm steering the brand back into the black.

Burberry is one of the biggest success stories to date. Under the creative direction of Christopher Bailey, Burberry has in fashion terms conquered Kilimanjaro. A brand once synonymous with chavs (stereotype: aggressive, anti-social teenagers of working class backgrounds) wielding knock-off scarves and baseball caps, it has shaken off its chequered past and become the cult label it is today. You only have to check the celebrity pages to see Harry Potter leading lady and face of the brand Emma Watson, PM's wife

Samantha Cameron and could-be-Queen Kate Middleton sporting their Burberry wares all over town.

However, as with all heritage brands, Burberry has used its history judiciously and cherry picked the sweetest parts to promote.

The brand's founder didn't lead the rock and roll lifestyle we have come to expect of the label, according to his 1926 obituary in the Daily News, "Mr Burberry cared for little outside his business except temperance, religion and agriculture, and he never read novels." As with all the heritage brands that are basking in resurrected success, rely too much on the company's history and you remain in the past, reference too little and you lose the relevance of reviving the brand.

All Eyes Looking East. Burberry's success

can, in part, be attributed to its investment in digital media, an area of unprecedented development most up-scale brands have

chosen to ignore at their peril. Whilst we recognise the brand is steeped in history, the Burberry name is now synonymous with innovation, blurring the lines between brand and media company. Connecting online with its customer base has proven fruitful, profits announced in November 2010 for the first half of the year reached a jaw dropping £117.7 million, up from £78.4 million.

But sales at home in the UK only account for a meagre six to seven per cent of global profits, meaning that it's not just customers in the UK buying into the heritage of the brand. By bolstering its Britishness, Burberry has captured the sensibilities of shoppers across the globe, with all eyes looking east to China.

Meanwhile, British luxury leathergoods company Mulberry announced profits had soared by 38 per cent last year, from £32.3 million in 2009 to £44.7 million.

Wholesale orders for the current season's style in progress 411

090 FASHION&INSPIRATION

Steeped in history, Norton & Sons on Savile Row is riding the wave of the smartened up aesthetic for men.

collection are up a staggering 91 per cent compared with last year. With these figures it's difficult to believe that the UK is in the midst of the greatest economic downturn since the Second World War, but in the main it isn't British shoppers spending £795 on the latest Alexa it-bag. As reported in The Independent in October 2010, Mulberry chief executive Godfrey Davis said its sales growth in Asia, particularly in South Korea, was outstripping the UK. "The wholesale business in Asia is growing at more than 100 per cent per annum," he said. For the 10 weeks to 2 October 2010, sales at Mulberry's shops in the UK jumped by 57 per cent, boosted by visitors from China to its London stores.

Quality, Tradition and Integrity. Aside

from the significance of heritage to the modern day consumer, quality and sourcing are proving to be more important than ever.

As Sam Lobban, buyer for contemporary brands at Selfridges commented in the Financial Times Style Section in March, "We have seen a desire for products and brands that evoke quality, tradition and integrity – brands such as Barbour, Lavenham and Hunter. These successful 'heritage' 411 style in progress

brands are also the ones that have tweaked their products to accommodate the more fashion-focused markets."

Barbour, a 5th generation family company established over 100 years ago, has done exactly that, having seen renewed interest in its shooting jackets in recent years. Now with pop-up heritage stores in the capital and international expansion, the brand has diversified to meet the modern consumer's needs. "Barbour's heritage has created interest amongst fashionistas who are fascinated by the Barbour story. Barbour represents the iconic brand value of freedom – an escape from the mundane and congested to a more open country, friendlier place," says Sue Newton, PR Manager for Barbour.

"It is not so much changing but more about the brand evolving to maintain relevance to today's consumer. Barbour draws inspiration from its heritage to create jackets that are fresh and contemporary each season alongside classics that remain iconic. The essence of Barbour is that it can be worn by different generations. They choose to wear the brand for many reasons – whether it's for shooting or equestrian activity, working in the country, slipping a quilted jacket over a suit in the

City or looking good at a festiva. There's a choice of styles and designs to suit all requirements, yet the underlying, founding principles of quality, durability, fitness for purpose and attention to detail are never compromised. Whether it's from the lifestyle collection or an iconic classic jacket, you will always know it's Barbour."

The brand also cites designer collaborations as playing an important role in propelling traditional labels into the present, catching the attention of a new demographic. "Used wisely, brand collaborations are very cost effective marketing tools and an opportunity to showcase the brand in a unique way. Collaborations can help to build brand relevance especially to more style conscious customers. We will continue to undertake a controlled number of collaborative projects where it makes strategic sense to do so."

Barbour has linked up with Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida, Alice Temperley and Anya Hindmarch in recent seasons, whilst bespoke Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons has controversially called on British design talent Kim Jones, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll and Christopher Kane to collaborate on the relaunch of ready-to-wear line

FASHION&INSPIRATION 091

Mackintosh's first standalone store located on London's prestigious Mount Street: a monumental step for the classic brand.

E Tautz. For young British designers to be able to showcase their work on Savile Row, an area known for being insular and protective of its traditions whilst steeped in history and an icon for high quality, is a clear barometer of the changing face of fashion in the UK. The Changing Face of UK-Fashion.

"We're incredibly proud to have worked with the people we've worked with. It tests our skills and keeps our tailors engaged with the avant-garde. It says a lot about the skill of our craftsmen that someone like Christopher Kane should choose to work with us for three successive seasons. This can only help our brand, and that of Savile Row as a whole," says Norton & Sons owner Patrick Grant. "Our heritage is of enormous importance. It colours everything that we do today.

It informs the style of our clothes and dictates the way we make them. And the stories of our old customers and the way they lived their lives are woven through everything that the brand stands for."

In the spring of 2004, Patrick Grant stumbled across an ad in the Financial Times for the sale of Norton & Sons, an esteemed but

The first Barbour Heritage store is located in the Newburgh Quarter off Carnaby Street.

ailing tailor which in its heyday clothed Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Lord Mountbatten and Winston Churchill to name a few. Without any direct experience in tailoring or the fashion industry, Grant bought the company for an undisclosed but what has been described as a modest sum. He has done a stellar job of turning the fortunes of the company around, having made a small profit in 2010 and tripling revenue.

He attributes this burgeoning success to hard work, the brand's heritage, consumers searching for quality and rebranding at a time when menswear is smartening up.

"It's clear to me that after years of fashionable men turning to casual clothes in a attempt to distance themselves from the bland formal wardrobe that existed in the '80s and '90s, they are on the move again against the tide of bland uniformity that the casual look has become. We are happily taking full advantage of this movement, and the movement back to genuine enduring quality after decades of brand obsession."

Causing a Stir. Whilst Norton & Sons provides the bespoke services you would expect from a Savile Row tailor, it is the sportswear

driven younger brother E Tautz that is causing a stir. Norton & Sons formal suits start at ÂŁ3.000 whilst E Tautz offers suits at half the price but with equal amounts of legacy behind the reinterpreted classics. Sold at Barneys New York, Galleria in Seoul, Matches, Harrods and Selfridges in London, and online at Mr Porter and E Tautz, it's a very British brand with a very global reach. All goods are produced in the UK, barring the handkerchiefs which hail from France, and according to Matches Menswear Buyer Stacey Smith, customers are very inquisitive about the sourcing and love the wool used for the E Tautz gloves that comes from sheep reared on the Duchy of Cornwall's farm.

The success of these British brands is not only supporting the economy in the UK from manufacture to tourism, but also giving consumers something to talk about and a story to engage with. Consumers want a reason over and above "I like it," or "I need it" to spend today, they want to feel a part of something with every purchase. It remains to be seen if the trend for all things traditional will get old, but providing China doesn't break off its love affair with London, we hope to be in vogue for years to come. style in progress 411

092 FASHION&INSPIRATION

Cult T-shirt brand Johnny Cupcakes first international store is injecting humour into retail.

411 style in progress

FASHION&INSPIRATION 093

Retail Rocks London Calling | The London retail scene has seen a surge of interesting stores opening in the capital over the last 18 months. Whether it's a menswear store with an in-house coffee machine merging the city's burgeoning café culture with apparel, or a by-appointment designer boutique with an indoor forest, innovation and personal service is the focus. Text: Alana Wallace. Photos: Shops, Dirk Lindner

J

OHNNY CUPCAKES

March saw the opening of the first international Johnny Cupcakes store outside of the US, with a throng of trendy teens and twenty-somethings queuing around the block. Fans of the brand flew in from around the world for the occasion and camped out overnight to get first dibs on limited edition merchandise exclusive to the London store. The cult T-shirt brand was established in 2000 from the back of owner John Earle's beaten up '89 Toyota Camry and now has four own brand stores. "We have a huge following throughout Europe, which we've developed over the years through our online store. London is a central hub connected to many other countries so I felt it would really help to further spread the reach of the brand," says Earle. "While my T-shirt bakeries do trick - and in turn upset - a lot of hungry people in America, I feel as though Londoners have a keener sense of humour and will hopefully take the joke in their stride." Designed to look like a vintage American bakery, the merchandising in store is truly unique, T-shirts displayed in refrigerators and pastry boxes instead of

plastic bags for customers to take away their purchases. "All of our T-shirts and merchandise are displayed in vintage curved glass bakery cases and refrigerators. Even the tags sewn into the T-shirts are in the shape of miniature oven mitts. I decided to go all out by creating and buying vintage bakery equipment. T-shirts are displayed in refrigerators, baking trays, and curved glass bakery cases, window displays that read 0% CARBS, 0% FAT, 0% SUGARS or Freshly Baked!, hidden vanilla scented car fresheners to give off a tasty frosting aroma––I've convinced many people that I mixed vanilla frosting with the white paint. I've even convinced a few friends to lick part of the wall to see if they could taste it. " Johnny Cupcakes, 10 Fouberts Place, Carnaby, London, W1F 7PF/UK, www.johnnycupcakes.com

PRESENT

Industry stalwarts and owners of Present, Eddie Prendergast and Steve Davies, have an impressive fashion pedigree. As founders of Duffer of St George (they broke away from the label a few years ago), their roots are firmly in menswear and they are now cutstyle in progress 411

094 FASHION&INSPIRATION

Present: a careful edit of heritage menswear looks from the founders of Duffer of St George.

ting their teeth with their multi-label menswear store in Shoreditch. More of a gallery space than a shop, Present incorporates hard-to-find books and magazines with inhouse coffee bar Prufrock, which was voted one of the top places to pick up a coffee in London by Conde Nast Traveller. The original Golden Horn Cigarette Company frontispiece outside and trendy couples standing with their dogs on the pavement sipping coffees can make the store difficult to identify on the first visit, but it tells you a great deal about the atmosphere of the store and the feeling that there's something worth looking at within. A keen focus on authentic heritage clothing is brought up-to-date with exclusive collaborations. Present pushes the boundaries of menswear, but nothing is overdone or unwearable. Prendergast and Davies are purists when it comes to denim, only stocking selvedge denim from brands such as Studio D'Artisan, Real McCoy and Davies's own label Lost Souls. By Davies's own admission, as reported in the Financial Times How To Spend It supplement in March 2010, "It's Nigel Cabourn who captures the essence of what Present is all about." The store's owners have a very hands-on approach to the store which is 411 style in progress

Eccentric bookshop, coffeehouse and school: The Idler Academy is where you can brush up on your English grammar, Latin or embroidery skills.

refreshing to see. You can regularly see Prendergast or Davies offering brand advice to shoppers or simply answering the phones or serving behind the till.

Present, 140 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6JE/UK, www.present-london.com

THE IDLER ACADEMY

Opened in March this year, The Idler Academy, by its own admission, brings a spirit of cultivated leisure to the 21st century and crosses it with the lively atmosphere of an 18th century coffeehouse. The eccentric West London shop combines a coffeehouse with a school and book store, stocking useful and beautiful books, both old and new, including Plato, Nancy Mitford, Virgil, William Cobbett, Aristotle and Aldous Huxley. The Idler is essentially a place of leisure, born out of co-owner Tom Hodgkinson's book How To Be Idle, in which he presents us with a laid-back argument for a new way of managing routine and chaos, an argument for experiencing life to the full and living in the moment. The Idler Academy reflects this ethos with gusto, giving Idlers a place to while away the hours with a coffee or an opportunity to brush up on English grammar, Latin, calligraphy, ukulele

for beginners, gardening or embroidery with one of the regular classes. A haunt for London's literary and thespian elite, you will also find small salon-style lectures for thirty or forty people every Wednesday evening by outstanding British writers, thinkers, philosophers or artists. In the words of Louis Theroux, eccentric British broadcaster known for his Gonzo style journalism, "Loafers everywhere now have a haven away from wage-slavery where we can while away the hours with hot drinks and books."

Courses include subjects such as Edible London: Learn To Forage and Feast in the City with Robin Hartford and The No 9 Bus to Utopia with David Bramwell.

The Idler Academy, 81 Westbourne Park Road, London, W2 5QH/UK, www.idler.co.uk

LATE NIGHT CHAMELEON CAFE

The 5,000 sq. ft. store space in East London's Dalston is a joint project by John Skelton (formerly of oki-ni and Harrods) and Daniel Mitchell, with store design by acclaimed set designer Gary Card. The founders are clear that the destination concept store is not just for buying clothes, but it should be treated like a showroom for the collections. They encourage like-minded people to visit the

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LN-CC: a groundbreaking concept resembling an installation rather than a traditional store.

space, have a drink, look at the books in the library, listen to music and purchase online once they have taken in the atmosphere and interacted with the clothes. The mens- and womenswear offer at LN-CC is based on unisex styling, mixing designer brands including Balenciaga, Jil Sander, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto, with lesser known Japanese labels such as SASQUATCH and Wacko Maria alongside up and coming international labels J.W. Anderson, Sibling and Tze Goh. The result is a streetwear influenced selection of sought after products. "For me retail in London had become very uninspiring...A city such as London needed a store like LN-CC in my opinion. We wanted to create a forward thinking store that was unlike anything else in the world. A visit to LN-CC is a real experience and that's something we really wanted to capture," comments Brand Director Dan Mitchell. "We're open on an appointment only basis for a number of reasons – We want to keep a controlled ambient environment and give our clients a service they won't receive in any other store. We're not trying to be elitist or exclusive in any way and once customers come down and meet us, they totally get a feel for the vibe and

Homewares shop Pedlars, in the heart of Notting Hill: combining London's burgeoning cafe culture with hard-to-find and limited edition product.

what we're about. We appeal to those that have a genuine love for product first and foremost. Different people take different things from us: book collectors, record collectors or guys purely into fashion." The innovation continues through the store design, which has been described as more of an installation than a traditional shop.

The store consists of three concept rooms – a book and record store, a club space for private events and a working photography studio – all linked together by an indoor forest and futuristic skeletal tunnel constructed from raw wood and orange acrylic.

Late Night Chameleon Cafe, 18 Shacklewell Lane, Dalston, London, E8 2EZ/UK, www.ln-cc.com

PEDLARS

Pedlars official tagline is "Stuff we love that you'll love too," Although presumptuous, in reality they're not wrong. Essentially an interiors and outdoor living store, Pedlars is a family-run business based in the Highlands of Scotland. Founded over a decade ago by husband and wife team Charlie and Caroline Gladstone, the company sells on-trend products the couple have tried and tested personally. Making a statement that although the couple enjoy rural life eight miles from

the nearest shop and five miles from mobile phone reception, they are not out of range from trends. The eclectic mix of quirky stationary, furnishings, kitchenware, games, toys and outdoor products sit alongside vintage clocks and specially commissioned limited edition prints. The company keeps the offer up-to-date through exclusive collaborations with Globe-Trotter, Billingham Bags and Lock & Co to name a few. Pedlars also stocks a wide range of quintessentially British products from Hunter Wellington boots to vintage Hovis bread tins (they look great as planter pots) available on a firstcome-first-served basis. Pedlars is yet another store cementing the trend in London for merging our new-found coffee culture with retail, the impressive coffee machine is loved by local clientele who sit on the bench outside in this yummy mummy area of West London. Just around the corner from Portobello Road, the Talbot Road shop has all the charm, personal service and eclecticism you would expect of the area.

Pedlars, 128 Talbot Road, London, W11 1JA/UK, www.pedlars.co.uk

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Phoenix from the Flames London Calling | If royal wedding fever has taught us anything, it's that Britain is back. Kate's iconic Alexander McQueen dress, canapés of bubble and squeak and Yorkshire pudding served at the reception ... It just doesn't get more British than that. A quiet British revolution has been taking over the fashion industry for seasons.

Text: Alana Wallace. Photo: Jake Hardy

W

ithin minutes of arriving at Westminster Abbey, the British Prime Minister's wife's pleated teal Burberry dress had sold out at global online luxury store net-a-porter. But since when did the spouses of politicians become such taste makers? Since Britain regained its cool.

"Made in Britain, created in Britain, designed in Britain, invented in Britain," was British Chancellor of the Exchequer George Osborne's patriotic statement made during the budget discusssion in March where he emphasised that we need to regain our roots in manufacture. This statement must have left designers Christopher Kane, Erdem, Roksanda Illinic, Meadham Kirchoff and Peter Pilotto scratching their heads, since this had long been a tagline they live by.

All of these designers use local factories and specialist craftsmen across the country, but why are they not shouting it from the rooftops? 10 or 15 years ago the Made in Britain label signified amateur design and Italy and France were the countries designers wanted to be associated with, evoking quality of design and manufacture. But years of hard work by British suppliers and their superior skills mean these young labels now prefer to pay a premium price for local manufacturers, giving them complete control over production and quality control.

Made in Britain. "You have lots of small manufacturers in London who can deliver really great quality, so we were able to produce our collections at the highest standard right from the beginning," says Peter Pilotto of his growing label. Pilotto also maintains that the support offered in London is a key to the success of young designers here, thanks to organisations such as the British Fashion Council (BFC). When Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, John Galliano et al were swept off to foreign shores, we lost some of the best talent in the industry, but London Fashion Week has seen the return of Burberry, Matthew Williamson, Amanda Wakeley, Jonathan Saunders, Antonio Berardi and Pringle in recent seasons, not to mention Tom Ford who is opening his studio in London after a five year absence from the fashion industry.

A survey commissioned by the BFC and collated by Oxford Economics found that the fashion industry is worth £21 billion annually to the UK economy, and as much as £37 billion if you include its wider contribution, including tourism. The BFC's chairman 411 style in progress

Harold Tillman, who is also the chairman of Jaeger and Aquascutum, hopes that the study will encourage the government to invest in the fashion industry. "Fashion is a British success story and this landmark piece of research underlines its true scope and economic impact. This is just the first step in creating a detailed national plan for the industry which will help to support its future growth and success."

A National Plan. Whilst top end designer fashion is receiving press and acclaim, we also have an incredibly successful high-street retail industry which is a huge draw for tourism. Retail giants such as Topshop convert designer trends into high-street musthaves faster than you can say "designer knock-off," a skill in which other countries' chain stores are yet to gain the advantage.

London also benefits from a new-found excellence in the menswear market, with a plethora of new cutting-edge stores from designer boutiques to streetwear independents popping up in Shoreditch over the past 18 months. Shoreditch has become a must-visit destination for any menswear buyers or designers on their travels, making the new trade shows launching in the capital seem long overdue.

7 August will see the launch of Jacket Required, a new premium menswear show from Mark Batista, co-founder of former streetwear fair To Be Confirmed (TBC), who has joined forces with menswear veterans Craig Ford and Andrew Parfitt.

style in progress caught up with the trio in East London, close to the site of their new show, to get their views on the fashion industry in the UK and how Jacket Required will be a part of London's rebirth as an essential fashion destination. style in progress: How is it going so far in setting up Jacket Required?

Craig Ford: So far so good.

Andrew Parfitt: I thought it was a great idea

and because I have such a presence in all the European trade shows I always wondered… why isn't there one in London of the same standard?

my brands at any trade shows so buyers for those stores have to come to London to see my brands at the showroom.

Andrew Parfitt: What we want to try and do is get them to come and see us and the trade show at the same time.

Mark Batista: Some of the brands that we have showing with us at Jacket Required are not showing in any other city so there's a point of difference here and a specific reason for international buyers to visit.

Andrew Parfitt: If there's a place where there are 35, 36 brands that are maybe on their radar and they want to have a look at, then it's relevant to attend the show.

What will your show do to attract buyers to London?

Craig Ford: We have brands that haven't

shown in Europe before and we've just signed up Bedouin from Japan and other Japanese labels.

Mark Batista: We want to offer brands like Universal Works, Heritage Research and Garbstore, which aren't available in every city in the UK or Europe.

Do you think there's also a retail movement that's encouraging people to travel to London again?

Mark Batista: I think menswear in London is

really strong from a retail perspective. It's weird that there isn't already a trade show like ours – There are great shows in Florence, Paris and Berlin, but nothing here.

We have a much healthier, stronger, more directional menswear market here.

Andrew Parfitt: What's happening in retail here is really relevant.

Why is the show by invitation only?

Craig Ford: We don't want any chain stores

or knock off people coming through the doors. We don't want marketing people turning up either. The show is dedicated to order writing.

Have you had a good response?

Mark Batista: The response I've had from

the buyers I deal with has been massively positive. It's not about getting hoards of buyers to come to London, but getting the right buyers through the doors. Quality, not quantity.

You sell brands as part of your day jobs: Is it fair to say that more international buyers are travelling to London?

Craig Ford: That's part of the reason why we are launching Jackett Required, because between us all we see buyers from the best stores for our market in Europe. I don't show

Jacket Required runs from 7 to 8 August, located amongst East London's hub of new menswear stores on Redchurch Street. www.jacket-required.com

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The team behind new London menswear show Jacket Required (left to right): Mark Batista, Craig Ford and Andrew Parfitt.

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Street Style LONDON

Recognised around the world for it's directional and individual sense of style, London streets are where trends are set and observed. Brick Lane and the surrounding streets in Shoreditch are where the fashionable set promenade and designers come to draw inspiration. The East London look relies heavily on vintage, mixed with high-street finds and heritage labels. Text: Alana Wallace. Photos: Christopher Fenner

Jacket/Zara, T-shirt/H&M, Leggings/American Apparel, Boots/All Saints, Bag/Delia

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Right page Left: All vintage Right: Cardigan/Rageblue, Shirt/Uniqlo, Tie/Vintage, Shorts/Vintage, Belt/ Vivienne Westwood

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Left page Top left: Coat/Primark, Leggings/Topshop, Boots/La Redoute, Bag/Blue Top right: Jacket/All Saints, T-Shirt/All Saints, Jeans/Behave, Boots/All Saints, Bag/Paul Smith Bottom left: Sunglasses/Cheap Monday, Trench coat/H&M, Polo shirt/Raf Simons for Fred Perry, Jeans/Cheap Monday, Shoes/New Balance Bottom right: A British institution: Pearly Kings and Queens have been a symbol of London's working class culture since the 19th century. Thousands of pearl buttons are sewn all over their clothes and some outfits have been handed down for generations. Members of The London Pearly Kings & Queens Society gather to collect money for local charities.

Right page Top left: Sunglasses/H&M, Top/Topshop, Tights/Topshop, Cuffs/Asos, Boots/Vintage Bottom left: Sunglasses/Ray-Ban, Shirt, shoes & bag/Vintage Bottom right: Sunglasses/Asos, Top/Beyond Retro, Bag/Vintage Moschino, Shoes/Urban Outfitters Next page left All/Vintage Next page right Glasses/Vintage, Blazer/Own label (Gabriel Akinosho), Trousers/Own label (Gabriel Akinosho), Shirt/Own label (Gabriel Akinosho), Tie/Vintage, Shoes/Russell & Bromley

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Left page All/Vintage Right page Top left: Glasses/Oliver Peoples, Shirt/Agnes B, Trousers/Ralph Lauren, Jacket/Barbour Down left: T-shirt/Oasis, Hoodie/American Apparel, Jeans/Burberry, Shoes/Nike Down right: Sunglasses/Ray-Ban, Necktie/J.S.Homestead, Shirt/Ralph Lauren, Braces/Ralph Lauren, Trousers/Comme des Garcons, Shoes/Converse, Bag/Ralph Lauren

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Pomandère PIONEERING VINTAGE LOOK

Founded in 2007, Italian fashion label Pomandère stands for a charming retro character with a contemporary interpretation. The name comes from the sachets that were once placed in wardrobes to give clothes a fresh fragrance. This young label developed from a small, traditional tailoring business. Pomandère designs its collections intuitively: The garments are created in a process marked by spontaneity and naturally complement each other to form a coherent collection. The Pomandère look effectively combines contrasting elements: soft and comfortable, yet creased with a touch of vintage. These exciting contrasts are the recurring theme of the collections. The label annually produces two collections. T-shirts wholesale between 6 and 80 euros, and trousers 64 to 78 euros with a markup of 2.5 to 2.7.

Pomandère, 36010 Zané/Italy, T 0039.445.360606, info@pomandere.it, www.pomandere.it

Blondes Make Better T-shirts ECO FRIENDLY HAS A WHOLE NEW LOOK

T-shirts from Norwegian brand Blondes Make Better T-shirts are humorous, stylish and environmentally friendly – all rolled into one. The label was launched by Norwegian designer Lise Ellingsen. In addition to their unusual designs, the T-shirts offer impressive high-quality.

Only sustainable fabrics are used to manufacture them, allowing the fashion label to make an important contribution to environmental protection.

Blondes Make Better T-shirts has already achieved major successes with its first collection, and now it plans to really take off with four collections every year. This means expanding the collection of unisex T-shirts and long-sleeve tops. Wholesale prices range from 20 to 30 euros with a 2.6 markup. Businesses that already carry the T-shirts include Ortner in Dortmund and Petera in Innsbruck.

K&K Logistics, 70329 Stuttgart/Germany, T 0049.711.52089715, www.kk-logistics.de, www.blondesmakebettertshirts.com

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Stretta ELEGANT SEX APPEAL

Fashion label Stretta, which has its roots in Los Angeles, offers breathtakingly sexy creations. The clothes are inspired by the bandage dresses of Hervé Léger, yet sell at a significantly lower price. The name comes from Italian, means skin-tight and scanty, and conveys sexiness, sophistication and energy.

Stretta was founded in 2011 by Eric Benarouche and Mayren Viray. The label's name says it all – these extravagant dresses reveal plenty of skin and conjure up beautiful, feminine silhouettes. In addition to the dresses, the collection includes leggings made of stretch material and snug-fitting skirts. On the three delivery dates – the two main collections and a cruise collection – the products are offered at a wholesale price of 90 to 200 euros, with a markup of no less than 2.7.

FlipMunich, 80802 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.344259, info@flipmunic.de, www.flipmunich.de, www.strettaapperel.com

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Ipilya NEW SALES MARKET

High-heeled shoes have a downside for the wearer. Consequently, Aurora Oriana, an Australian lady with Italian roots, set herself the following goal for her 2010 shoe range Ipilya: to design shoes for women that look good and are comfortable to wear. Every model in the range is made exclusively in Italy from Italian handcrafted leather and given a specially padded multi-layered sole.

Highlights of the biannual collection include evening sandals, boots and pumps with removable fur decorations. In addition, there is a bridal shoe collection, which is available all year round. The shoes retail from 500 euros and up. The Europe-wide distribution with headquarters in London is currently in the development phase and has set its sights on big-name customers such as Harrods in London, Theresa in Munich or Quartier 206 in Berlin. As a special service, Ipilya offers retailers the option to order colour variations or models in various styles based on their own ideas. In addition, there will be no minimum order quantity for small boutiques and subsequent deliveries of individual models will be made within a week.

Ipilya, Christian Schwarz, London, W1B 5TB/UK, T 0044.207.7348968, sales@ipilya.com, www.ipilya.com

SPRB THE MODERN CAVE WOMAN

Nelleke Strijkers, owner of the SPRMRKT fashion stores in Amsterdam, describes the SPRB winter collection as "the modern cave woman look." In summer 2009, she joined forces with Anne Marie Kramer and Nick Boulton to establish the label. They have combined their expertise and vision of fashion to create articles that are robust, soft, coarse and fine. The label demonstrates a great affection for authentic materials, proportions and sensuality. SPRB's positioning is in the mid to high-end fashion segment. The label works with hand-dyed wool, nappa and suede, diverse surface finishes and large prints. Highlights of the product range include roughly knitted, oversize scarves and monolithic accessories. The winter collection consists of roughly 50 articles, primarily knitted and dyed by hand in Sarajevo. The SPRB look is available from August 2011 in concept stores like SPRMRKT, L'Eclaireur and Apartment.

SPRB, Rozengracht 191-193, 1016 LZ Amsterdam/Netherlands, T 0031.20.3305601, info@sprb.nl, www.sprb.nl

My Bob, use your head!

CREATIVE HEADS

Globetrotters by themselves: It was a passion for practical panama hats that brought Geoffroy Moreel together with the dedicated photographer and artist Alberto Ibarretxe. The two combined to bring their multifaceted talent and experience in the truest sense of the word "under one hat." My Bob, use your head! is the result of a way of life: hats, hoods and caps created for those wishing to discover the world and incorporate the best of all the various cultures into their own lifestyle. Lambswool from Scotland, cotton from Asia and straw from South America - not only do the processed materials come from all corners of the earth, but the retailer network is widespread and stretches from Germany, France, Spain and Turkey to Japan and Australia. The multicultural aspect is a recurring theme in the concept of My Bob. The typical feature that makes the label stand out is pretty obvious: a red grosgrain ribbon on the inside of the hat. Warmth, optimism and simplicity are the clearly defined catchwords for the autumn/ winter 2011 collection, representing My Bob at trade fairs such as Pitti Uomo, Premium and Première Classe Tuileries. Retail prices are 24 euros for two-coloured lambswool hats and 81 euros for Chelsea hats.

My Bob, use your head!, Geoffroy Moreels, 1050 Brussels/Belgium, T 0032.474.605975, g.moreels@mybob.be, www.mybob.be

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Yerse FABULOUSLY FEMININE

Feminine but uncomplicated â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is the image presented by Yerse, the Spanish clothing label that has recently made a name for itself in the young womenswear segment. The Spanish family-owned brand, founded in 1964, has been active in Germany since 2009. After four rounds of orders, the label is supplying about 300 shops. There are roughly 80 sales points in Austria and Switzerland. The successful concept calls for authentic designs with high-quality materials at market-friendly prices.

Starting with the current round of orders, the label is being expanded with a high-quality line of accessories that complement the clothing. Lovingly crafted jewellery, scarves and bags harmoniously round out the portfolio.

Orders for accessories can be placed at the same time as orders from the two main collections.

The 2012 spring/summer collection was inspired by American movies and TV shows from the '50s.

Wholesale prices range from six to 35 euros with a markup of 3.0. Orders can be placed until 15 September and merchandise will be delivered between 15 January and the end of February. This season Yerse will be exhibiting at Premium, Who's Next and CPM trade fairs.

Yerse, 08205 Barcelona/Spain, T 0034.937.451.700, export@yerse.com, www.yerse.com

Alina Schuerfeld HAMBURG MEETS ITALY

A premium brand for shoes and bags, Alina Schuerfeld stands for clean lines, subtle details, an exciting mix of materials and carefully selected colours. Located in the Hamburg district of Veddel, the brand deftly makes the harmonious transition between modern elements and timeless style. With products exclusively made of vegetable tanned leather in Italy, Schuerfeld is committed to exceptional quality. The high level of craftsmanship is reflected in its final products. Shoes range from boots with stiletto heels to riding boots and feminine flat lace-ups. Wholesale prices for the women's collection run between 144 and 270 euros. Men's shoes are sold wholesale for 160 to 315 euros. Bags and suitcases with sophisticated clasps and fasteners can be purchased wholesale for 330 to 770 euros.

The collection has a markup of 2.5 to 2.8.

Alina Schuerfeld GmbH, 20539 Hamburg/ Germany, T 0049.40.76990216, sales@alinaschuerfeld.com, www.alinaschuerfeld.com

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Parker SIMPLY CHARMING

The fashion label Parker creates dresses and tops with harmonious contrasts. The collection is casual, yet playful â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cool, yet elegant and classy. Rich fabrics, elaborate embroidery and detailed sequin decorations make Parker fashions stand out from the crowd. Delicate fabrics in bright and soft colours are the hallmark of the US label. Munich-based sales and distribution agency Flip sees Parker as the perfect collection for shops that serve women who are not only interested in the big brands.

Wholesale prices range from 90 to 200 euros with a markup of at least 2.7. The American label is already available in leading stores likes Barneys, Intermix and Saks 5th Avenue. In Europe sales will start with the first pre-collection for spring/summer 2011, which will be delivered in mid-November. The label's other two delivery dates are late February for the summer collection and late August for autumn/winter articles.

FlipMunich, 80802 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.344259, info@flipmunic.de, www.flipmunich.de, www.lilykateshowroom.com/parker

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Gold Bunny GOING FOR GOLD

Gold Bunny jackets are made of the finest, softest leather and easily fit into a small bag, although you might prefer to show them off! The innovative jacket label with the cheerful name was founded in 2008 and has since been incredibly successful. It is stocked by Pool in Munich, Jades in Düsseldorf, Gallery in Madrid, Helmut Eder in Kitzbühel and Harvey Nichols in London. The current spring/summer 2012 collection presents the lightest materials such as kangaroo leather in fluorescent colours. Handcrafted vintage effects and special perforations add that distinctive touch to the innovative garments. Each collection comprises about 30 pieces for men and women. Cotton jackets wholesale at 119 to 129 euros, leather jackets at 239 to 295 euros with a markup of 2.7.

Fine s.r.l., 47122 Forli/Italy, T 0039.05430.31582, info@gold-bunny.it, www.gold-bunny.it

Souve TOTE WHAT YOU THINK!

This was the slogan for the first collection of Munich’s Souve brand, which was launched in March 2011. Manager and Creative Director Hendrik Boeing aims to produce products that give a fashionable voice to people on the street. Slogans such as "Munich is for lovers," "I lost my heart in Salzburg," "Poor but sexy" and "Can't afford a Birkin" are emblazoned on these shopping tote bags made of durable canvas. Boeing explains: "In this low-price segment, you usually only find typical merchandising products. Our products cannot be compared to jute bags made of thin material."

The "Can't afford a Birkin" model enjoyed brisk sales in May at initial retailers like Isy's in Munich and Helmut Eder in Kitzbühel. The first collection exclusively features shopping bags made of canvas for 7.50 euros wholesale with a markup of 2.7. There are plans to introduce products made of high-quality vintage leather.

Souve UG, Hendrik Boeing, 81541 Munich/Germany, T 0049.176.66889900, mail@souve.net, www.souve.net

Cottin YOUR DREAM JERSEY

The feel-good collection Cottin, which offers Oekotex 100 certified jersey fabrics at fair prices, is both flattering and environmentally sound. The label was founded in 2010 by Elke Cottin from Plan B Fashion GmbH in Cologne and is very feminine with shirts and flowing dresses plus details such as smoke effects and slits. The label currently has 44 customers in Germany and Spain, including Zusann in Munich, Liedhoff in Hamburg, Paulina in Celle and Dipol in Manheim. Every year Plan B Fashion GmbH brings out two collections of 65 garments. Shirts retail wholesale from 39 to 59 euros and dresses from 89 to 129 euros. The current spring/summer 2012 collection focuses on colour blocking and layering, and knitwear and washed silk fabrics are also being added to the range. Plans are already in the works for the first Cottin shop.

Plan B Fashion GmbH, 50677 Cologne/Germany, T 0049.221.3028304, Cottin@Cottin.de, www.cottin.de

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Judith Haarmann KNIT Ă&#x20AC; PORTER

Founded in 1999, knitwear label Judith Haarmann features exclusive Italian yarns coupled with the remarkable craftsmanship of traditional knitting mills. In her own store in Westerland on Sylt, the Hamburg-based designer displays coats, capes, ponchos, tube dresses, pencil skirts and banana skirts, handmade from materials such as cashmere, silk and, on request, vicuna. The designer also works with materials such as silk with a spandex core and high-quality viscose combined with elastane to stabilize the fit, create special surface effects and ensure maximum comfort. Sales and distribution in Germany, Austria and Switzerland are scheduled to begin in the summer of 2011. The campaign targets retailers in the high-priced luxury goods segment. Retail prices range from 450 euros for pullovers and 1,200 to 2,400 euros for dresses to 9,000 euros for handmade cashmere pullovers. Wholesale prices are calculated from the order volume.

Judith Haarmann, 25980 Westerland (Sylt)/Germany, T 0049.4651.299797, info@judith-haarmann.de, www.judith-haarmann.de

Blockindustrie OLD VALUES, NEW LOOK

Blockindustrie is the Italian company MC Adams' new collection, which combines casual style with old values and the experience of the company that was founded in 1973.

Each item is handcrafted, garment-washed and air-dried to give it a particularly natural, unique look, which enables the wearer to profit from 40 years of experience in tailoring, washes and treatments. To date, the collection has been sold by 30 retailers throughout Europe, including Emerson Renaldi in Nuremberg, Sugar in Arezzo, Spoon in Modena and the agency Udo Toepfer, who is now selling the collection in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

The collection comprises jackets, trousers, knitwear and shirts for men and women. Jackets wholesale from 138 to 218 euros and trousers from 57 to 97 euros with a markup of 2.8.

MC Adams SPA, 36020 Albettone/Italy, T 0039.0444.790371, mail@mcadams.it

Rosemunde SUBTLE EVERYDAY LUXURY

The Rosemunde Collection is the epitome of Scandinavia: defined by subtle, tasteful and purist luxury, which is expressed less in the designs and more in the materials used.

Designers Katherine Hviid, Maj Christoffersen and their 50-man team have tried to create styles that you can wear 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year.

There are high-quality material combinations such as 70 per cent silk and 30 per cent cotton blends for tops and cashmere fabrics plus innovative materials such as Tencel (Lyocell) and certified organic cotton. The collection comes out four times a year and doesn't go for current trend topics, but instead timeless, classic looks.

The brand is already sold in Austria, Belgium, Denmark, England, Finland, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway, Spain and Switzerland and is represented in over 70 stores, including Ludwig Beck in Munich and C'est la vie in Hamburg.

Rosemunde, 2950 Vedbaek/Denmark, T 0045.39.640190, info@rosemunde.dk, www.rosemunde.dk

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Swedish Hasbeens DAYS OF CHILDHOOD

In 2007 Emy Blixt teamed up with his childhood friend to found the shoe label Swedish Hasbeens.

The simple idea was to create better shoes for a better world without plastic and bling-bling. Since then, the retro-style wooden clogs, sandals and sports shoes have enjoying a roaring success and are stocked by stores such as American Rag in Los Angeles, Merci in Paris and Antonia in Milan.

They're even worn by stars such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Maggie Gyllenhaal. Swedish Hasbeens are distributed in 20 markets worldwide with a total of 500 POS. The biggest market is the USA. Now it's time to tackle the German market and Elke Wirichs' agency will be doing precisely that. Sustainability has its price, but the label's natural, handcrafted products are still reasonable, retailing between 150 and 350 euros.

Agentur Elke Wirichs, 80805 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.32308100, info@elke-wirichs.com

masha & kate BYE-BYE CLASSIC STYLE!

B-Low the Belt STRAPPING SEXY

Timeless elegance with a dash of rock'n'roll.

Founded in 2002, B-Low the Belt has established itself as a maker of brilliant, eye-catching belts.

Rivets, buckles and lacing make each belt a strapping sexy work of art. The label's handbags and accessories are also impressive. Only top quality materials are used to manufacture these products.

The label was founded by two creative souls, Carole Kotler and Ana Schoenberg. Inspired by music, art and architecture, B-Low the Belt creates a bridge between unconventional accessories and timeless style. The delivery date for this autumn is August/September, and February/March for the spring. Wholesale prices for these trendy belts range from 50 to 120 euros with a markup of no less than 2.7. Now that the label has successfully established a foothold in the US market, the FlipMunich agency will handle sales and distribution for the EU. FlipMunich, 80802 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.344259, info@flipmunic.de, www.flipmunich.de, www.b-lowthebelt.com

Playful pop culture at its best: From August 2011 the label mash & kate will launch neckerchiefs and scarves that skillfully mix bright pop culture colours with typical folk culture designs. Pretzels meet the Berlin Victory Column and gingerbread hearts join delicate folklore patterns. The many small details are only visible at second glance are a true highlight. The scarves are made of softly flowing fabrics such as silk, cotton or a blend of silk-cashmere and available in the sizes 90 x 90 cm, 200 x 70 cm and 180 x 130 cm. The mash-up neckerchiefs and scarves are not only top quality, but are also good value for money: The typical masha & kate styles wholesale from 47 to 149 euros. From August the neckerchiefs and scarves will be available at Konen in Munich, Marie Joe in Hannover and Hege 9 in Hamburg.

Vertriebsagentur Hoferer GmbH, 40474 D端sseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.20076128, www.agentur-hoferer.de

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LOWER YOUR EYES!

Let's look down for once to an accessory that has gone from being only part of the team to key player in retail as well as in the outfit you're wearing. And what are the prospects for spring/summer 2012? Leading designers reveal their thoughts to style in progress.

Text: Martina M端llner. Styling: Roswitha Wieser. Photos: Andreas Hechenberger

Lacoste Lacoste Dolfie Dolfie Tkess Tkees Tkees United Nude

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New Balance Superga Leather Crown TST Philippe Model Philippe Model (left)

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Ludwig Reiter Superga Red Wing Red Wing Clarks

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Fiorentini & Baker Primabase Sabbies Amsterdam Sabbies Amsterdam Primabase

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Santoni Rupert Sanderson Arfango Alden Floris van Bommel Scholl

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n.d.c.

Dolfie New Balance Volta Preventi Pantofola d'Oro

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Tosca Blu Tosca Blu Tosca Blu Pura Lopez Ash

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Rem D. Koolhaas, Designer United Nude. United Nude is at the core of Architectural and Conceptual footwear design, while once again re-inventing itself with an elegant collection of exciting new styles and updates of its own timeless classics. From a basic concept such as the wooden Abstract to many new glamorous styles such as the Web and the Geisha, a true balance is sought and found between design and fashion.

Floris van Bommel, Designer Floris van Bommel. Our collection will be a mix of both: bright and toned colors. The sneaker discussion is always present at the beginning of the season. Will sneakers still be important? We're introducing 2 completely new sneaker lines in one season, so for us sneakers still matter - a lot.

Above all we developed a boat shoe line which will have a very clear Floris van Bommel signature.

Adolfo Lendoyro, Designer Dolfie. We merely design or create whatever we think we'd like to wear or is innovative and modern.

We may talk about what we see and feel in the street. For sure, it's a time to lead and not follow, to pay attention to what we buy and to construct our own unique look.

Mauro Simionato, Designer and Brand Manager Volta. … people want quality back, even though it can mean higher costs. That's what we're trying to do with Volta: to fulfil peoples'everyday needs while developing good shoes that become instant classics.

Enrique Corbi, Designer and Co-Owner n.d.c. Light, comfortable and flexible constructions made with soft suedes, vegetable tanned leather and washed linens.

Leather-soled espadrilles and vegetable tanned leather sandals are key for spring/summer 2012.

Achim Leidel, Country Manager GER/AUS/SWI Scholl Footwear.

Besides ultra-flats and comfortable wedge heels, we are going to enhance our established bioprintsoles with a new product. The wooden heels will be relaunched as well. Sandals and wedges in a vintage/used look will appear in coral, citro or blue-sky as well as black, white and natural tones.

Carly und Jesse Burnett, Owners and Designers TKees. We're looking at lace flip flops for spring.

You feel sexy the second you slip your feet into them. It's like wearing lingerie for your feet that you don't feel shy about showing!

Pierre Garnier, Design Director Lacoste Footwear. The Lacoste vision for summer 2012 is to design and develop premium, understated and consumer-focused footwear that reflects the values of René Lacoste: authenticity, optimism, audacity and elegance.

We are reducing the complexity of our product range, allowing simpler and more focused product messages.

Giacomo Ronzoni, Owner Minoronzoni Srl (Tosca Blu).

The spring/summer collection 2012 mixes and plays with various colours, in order to put female energy perfectly into focus: a combination of natural tones such as sand and stone combined with coralline. Moreover, metallic gold, silver and shades of orange which are mixed with light- and darkbrown leather tones are to be found in the collection.

Gabor Magyar, General Manager Red Wing Shoes. The main benefit of any Red Wing boot is and has been its superior quality. Our new collection is inspired by classic products from our archives, not merely by short-term trends.

As part of the Beckman Collection of distinguished Featherstone leathers, we're bringing out an oxford shoe. Also, we will focus our efforts around a fully handsewn collection.

Gabriel Cañellas, Creative Director Lotusse. The Lotusse shoe trends for spring/summer 2012 are full of energy and sporty, but elegant at the same time. An important topic for summer 2012 is structures.

They can be detected in heels and soles in different forms: cork, vachetta, coco. Moreover, the topic lightness plays a major role, especially concerning the micro-shoe soles. The new line Delice is also being extended.

Roberto Basso, Designer Primabase. The next spring/summer collection is mainly influenced by the flower power of the '70s: flats and coloured sneakers with studs, dirtying and stitching effects made

by Italian master craftsmen.

Rupert Sanderson, Head of Design and owner. You can expect anything and everything for spring/summer 2012 – from low, block colour-changing heels to sky-scraper wedges.

Sauro Doria, International Sales Manager Preventi. The shoe trend at the moment is really going toward a hybrid type of shoe between a sneaker and leather shoe good to wear when dressing elegantly or casually. Fashion is changing really fast and people are looking for a specific type of shoe that is easy and smart.

Conrad Hasselbach, Distributorship Trickers. …for spring/summer 2012 we see a revival of tassel Loafers, which were popular in the '80s – also for women. As far as colours are concerned, suede in blue, pistachio and crème will be especially prominent. Details such as tassels, which are offset in terms of colour and coloured lining leather, are a must.

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NON È BELLO CIÒ CHE BELLO, MA CIÒ CHE PIACE* *Beauty is not what's beautiful, but what you like.

Photos: Marcel Gonzalez-Ortiz/www.gonzalez-ortiz.com Styling & production: Roswitha Wieser & Karin Siller Hair/make-up: Karin Bogner Model: Kristina Nikolic/www.wienermodels.com Thanks to Sport & Mode Reyer/www.reyer.cc, Die Brille Salzburg

Blouse Villa Gaia Shorts 7 for all Mankind Trouser braces R95th Socks Kunert Shoes n.d.c.

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Vest Closed Chain Chan Luu Trousers Closed Belt Guess by Marciano

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Blouse Marc Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Polo Shorts J Brand Earrings Sence

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Top 0039 Italy Jacket 81hours Shorts 34 White Scarf Kudibal Belt Naf Naf Bracelets Isabel Marant Fabric bracelet Mathias Chaize Sunglasses Dsquared Boots Marc Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Polo

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Dress Kristensen du Nord Cap Warm-ME Ankle boots Janet & Janet

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Dress Twenty8Twelve Hat Roeckl Gloves Roeckl

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Blouse Dr. Denim Shorts Missoni Bag Giorgio Brato Chain Chan Luu

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Dress St.Emile Panty Hanky Panky Bracelet Noa Noa Leather bracelets Saami Crafts

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IN FULL BLOSSOM Photos: Sabine Liewald/www.sabineliewald.com Styling & production: Sabine Berlipp/www.blossommanagement.de Hair/make-up: Sascha Schuette, Tune Management Model: Jelena, Model Management Hamburg Thanks to Sanctum Store/www.sanctum-shoes.com, Herkenrath/www.herkenrath1873.de

Skirt Villa Gaia Top Naf Naf Shoes Prada at Herkenrath

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Dress Marimekko

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Hot pants Edith & Ella Blouse Department 5 Bag and scarf Barbour Gloves Roeckl Glasses Mykita Shoes Prada at Herkenrath

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Skirt Susanne Bommer Blouse Joie Scarf Ra-Re Shoes Prada at Herkenrath

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Blouse Noa Noa Trousers Amsel Glasses Six Million Glasses Bag George Gina & Lucy

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Top Lacoste Trousers Hugo Shoes Liid von Sanctum

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Dress Schumacher Scarf Roda Gloves Roeckl

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136 LOOK&FEEL

RETAIL NEWS

Berlin, Rome, Salzburg: Brands are going optimistic with mono-label stores.

Their interiors are as different as the brands themselves: from (ultra-) reduced to over-the-moon opulent.

Denim on the Kurfürstendamm

Stylish Leisure Looks

7 for all mankind / Berlin

Hugo Boss / Sylt

A second 7 for all mankind shop opened in mid-June in Berlin when the California-based premium denim label moves into quarters at Kurfürstendamm 185. The complete product range of the label, which was founded in Los Angeles in 2000, will fill the store's 125 square metres distributed over two storeys. The spacious entrance area is dominated by large glass windows. The most prominent elements of the store's interior concept: natural oak and zebrano wood, slabs of cement, glass display cabinets and bronzecoloured clothing racks. Germany's first 7 for all mankind store opened in 2010 in Berlin's Quartier 206, followed by additional shops in Düsseldorf and Hamburg. "Germany is one of the most important markets for us," says Manager Massimo Ferrucci. "Berlin is a city particularly interesting for us in terms of fashion. We're delighted that we now have the opportunity to shine here with another branch store."

Kurfürstendamm 185, 10707 Berlin/Germany, www.7forallmankind.com

This May the first Boss store opened on the island of Sylt.

Hugo Boss presents three of his ranges at Friedrichstrasse 10 in Westerland. Collections and accessories from Boss Black, the casualwear range Boss Orange and the golf-inspired sportswear range Boss Green provide the perfect outfits for enjoying relaxed leisure activities on Sylt. The new store not only has menswear and womenswear, but children can also look forward to the stylish Boss Kidswear collection.

The perfect setting is provided by the ultra-modern interior which stretches over an area of around 172 square metres.

The sporty shop concept was specially designed for the presentation of Boss Black Sportswear, Boss Orange and Boss Green. Based on sailing, the store resembles an elegant yacht: High-quality materials such as stained oak and black steel make the shop look both stylish and sporty. Original sails from the Hugo Boss yacht were integrated in the design concept in the form of suspended ceiling and wall panels.

Friedrichstrasse 10, 25980 Sylt/Germany, www.hugoboss.com

Fashion Labels in Historical Ambience WP Lavori / Rome

A 125 square metre denim paradise: the new 7 for all mankind store in Berlin on the Kurfürstendamm.

The new Boss store on Sylt: elegant, exclusive and inviting.

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In April WP Lavori opened its newest store in Rome. The store is located inside an historical old building right next to the Piazza di Spagna. The WP Lavori brands are presented on a 300 square metre floorspace. The diversified brand portfolio features Woolrich, Woolrich Woolen Mills, Pennrich, B.D. Baggies, Save Khaki, Barbour, Avoncelli and Blundstone. Some young, innovative brands from the UK, Japan and the USA have also found their way into the portfolio, such as the Japanese labels Beams+ and Fith. The new stores tie in with earlier retail successes of WP Lavori, which used to be leading Italian trend store, and aims to regain this title. Founded in 1982, the WP Lavori in Corso Group closed its fiscal year 2010 with a 15 per cent plus. This success will be the spring-board for opening further stores in 2011 and 2012, which for now will remain in Italy.

Via Salita San Sebastianello 6B, 00187 Rome/Italy, www.wplavori.com

WP Store in Rome – diversified fashion presented in historical rooms.

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The Swanky Swedes

A Shop Window for Design Objects

Björn Borg / Düsseldorf

Stone Island / Paris

At the beginning of June, Germany opened its first Björn Borg store in Düsseldorf. At the opening ceremony, nine Björn Borg doubles promoted the new store. Over an area of about 68 square metres in the Kö-Galerie, the underwear label presented both its men's and women's collections alongside swimwear, bags and socks. Jens Reuschel, Sales Manager of Björn Borg in Germany, is very pleased with the flagship store's location. "The Kö-Galerie has become an innovative centre in Germany's fashion capital Düsseldorf.

It's also the perfect location because it's so close to our headquarters in Würselen." Further Björn Borg stores are set to open in Germany, but it's not yet known when and where. The label was founded in 1989. In Scandinavia and the Netherlands, it already ranks among the leading underwear labels. It was inspired by and named after Swedish '70s tennis legend Björn Borg.

Königsallee 60, 40212 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.bjornborg.com

Since June 2011 Paris has yet another fashion highlight: In the very heart of the city, France's first Stone Island flagship store opened during Paris Men's Fashion Week. Owner Carlo Rivetti would like to use this store as a springboard to establish the brand on the French market while hoping to make it big internationally. Extensive construction was undertaken prior to the opening of the new shop on Rue Saint-Honoré. The 80 square metre sales area features impressive floating floors of marine grade stainless steel and vertical carbon and fibreglass lighting elements. The outside of the shop was also included in the ground plan and a double glass structure extending over two storeys gives the shop an imposing façade.

Rue Saint-Honoré 316, 75001 Paris/France, www.stoneisland.com

Off To New Pastures Cinque / Munich and Salzburg

In July 2011 Cinque opened two new shops: a flagship store in the heart of Munich and a partner store in the centre of Salzburg. The Munich store is located in Brienner Strasse 1, close to Odeonsplatz.

The floorspace is160 square metres. and features the manifold Cinque collections of Donna and Uomo, as well as shoes and accessories.

The Salzburg store is located in Linzer Gasse 37 and measures 90 square metres. Here you can experience exciting fashion trends that range between coolness and passion. The partner store is run by the Desiderio company with sales and distribution through Aco Modeagentur GmbH in Austria. Both shops have been developed in cooperation with the architect office Pankrath-Windisch and their concept is based on existing shops in Berlin, Braunschweig and Düsseldorf with individual adjustments and special details.

Shop Munich, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich/Germany Shop Salzburg, Linzer Gasse 37, 5020 Salzburg/Austria, www.cinque.de

Stone Island's first store in Paris.

The colourful Björn Borg flagship store in Düsseldorf.

The brand-new Cinque flagship store in the heart of Munich.

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138 LOOK&FEEL

The Duo from Sihlporte The Apartment Store / Zurich. For the past seven years, Marcel Hofmann and Hanspeter Limacher have been living and pursuing their dream of the perfect boutique on Sihlporte in Zurich. Ever since the duo expanded the amount of floor space last autumn, The Apartment Store has become an even more appropriate name for this spacious shop with its very special mix of brands. Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Jan Willem den Hollander

Hanspeter Limacher (left) and Marcel Hofmann only sell what they'd wear themselves, without a lot of show and pomp.

"A

ccording to the German definition of the word, an apartment is a spacious, luxurious one-room flat," says Hanspeter Limacher as he explains the shop's name. "Since our store consists of one large room, and we strive for a congenial atmosphere – as if you were shopping at a friend's place, we found The Apartment Store to be a very fitting name," says Limacher, a textile college graduate, essentially revealing the secret behind the shop's success. He and his partner Marcel Hofmann have always valued personal customer service. Hofmann completed his commercial training at an embroidery firm in western Switzerland, but actually he had always longed to be a designer. Seven years ago he and Limacher created the shop's concept based on the observation that the sector sorely needed a more service-minded approach. The idea was to focus on the customer – and sales would take care of themselves.

Retailing Textiles As a 24/7 Passion. These two businessmen in their mid-40s have obviously hit upon a winning concept. The store may not be in the best location to attract many walk-in customers, but it is in the Sihlporte area of Zürich's business district and relies primarily on its regular customers who know that Hofmann and Limacher only sell what suits each individual client. "We're honest," says Limacher as he describes the conscientious nature of their contact with customers. "We don't let our customers leave our store feeling like they have been talked into something, just for the sake of having a few more francs in the till at the end of the day."

Since this personal contact is so important, the two handle virtually the entire business themselves. They have one trainee. If, however, they have to attend trade fairs and make procurements, Limacher's mother and aunt mind the shop. Hofmann's family also contributes to the store's concept: His father most of the furniture in the shop.

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Ladies to the Left, Gentlemen to the Right. Studies have shown that women head first for the left-hand side of a store. Not surprisingly, all of the womenswear brands have been arranged on the left-hand side, neatly sorted according to labels, of which the Belgian Sofie d'Hoore is the unabashed favourite of the owners. And what about the menswear, which has been placed on the right-hand side, where the "logical brain hemisphere" lies? "Falke," they both respond in unison. According to the duo, every season Falke contributes a special pureness to the store, with wonderfully wearable classics featuring new looks that customers never get tired of buying. Do Limacher and Hofmann purchase their inventory according to labels? "No, not at all," says Limacher, "we go to trade fairs, look around, and allow ourselves to be inspired. It’s only then that we order what appeals to us. We don't make purchases just because something has a big or trendy name." In other words, aside from their favourite labels, there are no firmly established brands in the store, which made it difficult for the owners to decide on a supplier for bags. It wasn't until they had – literally – searched for years that they opted for M0851 for the simple reason that they themselves feel comfortable using each of these subtly designed bags from Montreal. That's passion for the textile business – passion pure.

The Apartment Store. The Apartment Store, Löwenstrasse 1, 8001 Zurich/Switzerland, T 0041.43.2431551, www.theapartmentstore.ch Opening: August 2004. Owners: Marcel Hofmann, Hanspeter Limacher. Staff: 3 (1 trainee). Sales Area: 210 sqm.

Womenswear: Adidas SLVR, A.P.C., Fine Collection, Firma, Gabriele Colangelo, Kristensen du Nord, Loft, Mantù, Samantha Sung, Simeon Farrar, Sofie d'Hoore. Menswear: Adidas SLVR, Aether, A.P.C., C.P. Company, Falke, Firma, Isaora, J. Lindeberg, Loft. Accessories: Alexander Olch, Common Projects, Henry Christ, M0851, Preventi, Warm-Me.

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There was no interior designer at work here: Hofmann and Limacker thought up everything themselves.

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140 LOOK&FEEL

Andrea Bocan, Managing Director of Mondrean.

The entry area with its cozy reading corner and a picture by Andreas Reimann.

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L.A. Calling Mondrean / Vienna. Step into Mondrean and the first thing you notice is a large flatscreen TV recounting the history of the store in a series of remarkable images. Suddenly, you've arrived in Hollywood – right in the heart of Vienna.

Text: Claudia Janka. Photos: Mondrean

"I

simply love L.A. – and the idea behind my concept store is to bring the L.A. spirit of fashion to Vienna. This orderly chaos that you see all around the shop, that's L.A.!" says Andrea Bocan, Managing Director of Mondrean. As soon as you enter this multi-label store, which was opened in March 2011, you sense a certain magic in the air. The shop gives you the feeling of entering another world, as Hollywood big city flair meets Viennese charm.

Cool beach sounds undulate in the background. Barbie dolls adorn one corner while an original Baywatch buoy signed by David Hasselhoff has been propped in another. It's Hollywood everywhere you look. This shop concept is creating a considerable buzz these days on the Viennese fashion scene.

Inspiration on Sunset Boulevard. "On my first visit to L.A., I

went on a mad shopping spree. I've always loved treating myself to wonderful clothing, but I'd never experienced anything like this before. I practically went off the rails. The city had mesmerised me.

One day, I was lounging next to the pool with my close friend Uwe Kröger at the Mondrian Hotel on Sunset Boulevard and we realised exactly what we wanted: to bring this distinctive LA lifestyle to Vienna." Once they discovered the perfect location in Vienna's exclusive 1st district, (and came up with a name for the new store by merging the place of inspiration with the store owner's first name), nothing stood in the way of the first L.A. fashion concept store in the Austrian capital. German musical singer and actor Uwe Kröger, who shares Bocan's love of L.A., helped make the dream a reality: In addition to generating publicity, he acts as her personal consultant when it comes to the store's decor and men's collections.

California Chic for Everyone. Mondrean offers a wide range of

fashions, with everything from elegant evening dresses and casual street wear, to business outfits and sexy shoes. What's more, the store

features its own perfume dubbed Sky 73, an assortment of jewellery, and books that visitors can browse through in a cosy reading area.

The high ceilings of the stately old building offer space enough for paintings by Austrian pop artist Andreas Reimann, which can be purchased by shoppers. A Mondrean CD and an exclusive Mondrean T-shirt designed by Beryll top off the range of articles for sale. "As I see it, a concept store should have something in every price category and for every customer. No one should leave my shop feeling disappointed," says Bocan. Prices for jeans, for example, range from 70 to 700 euros. The store currently stocks 66 labels, brands that she has for the most part ordered from Los Angeles. She aims to bring the style of Hollywood stars – and the unique lifestyle of chic sunny California – to Vienna.

Bocan is a businesswoman with a strong background in the restaurant industry, but with her first retail store, this newcomer to trade has shown a seemingly boundless passion for the L.A. spirit of fashion.

"L.A. is so free and open, somehow everything simply seems to be possible there. I asked myself: Can I bring this feeling to Vienna?"

Apparently, she can! Her plans for the future? Not surprisingly, she intends to bring even more L.A. to Vienna.

Mondrean Fashion GmbH. Dorotheergasse 13, 1010 Vienna/Austria, T 0043.1.5128585, www.mondrean.at Opening: March 2011. Owner and manager: Andrea Bocan.

Staff: 6. Sales area: 170 sqm.

Collections: incl. 81hours, Afflication, Adriano Goldschmied, Artisan de Luxe, Giulu, Gwynedds, Hammit, Harry & Sons, HTC, Jetlag, King Baby, Michael Stars, New Balance, Pantofola d’Oro, Projekt E, PRPS, Ralph Gladen, Robins Jean, Rock & Republic, Romy Gold, Schierholt, Sundek by Neil Barrett, The Same Guy, Tkees, Top Gub, Tortuga, Victoria Beckham, Vudo Shoes, Wanawake, Wet Clement Clothing.

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142 LOOK&FEEL

Just Don't Open a Normal Store!

First / Frankfurt. First in Frankfurt has always been a centre for high fashion beyond the mainstream – and that hasn't changed following the move from the rear courtyard to a location directly on the street. Quite the contrary! Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: First

W

hen the lease expired on the commercial space in the rear courtyard, Johanna Kalliwoda and her husband and business partner Immo seized upon this opportunity to move just a few metres away, yet directly on Mörfelder Landstrasse.

Advantages of an Off-Beat Location. Admittedly, the new store is also not in a major shopping area. This is primarily a residential neighbourhood with a host of office buildings and hardly any other fashion stores. But that doesn't bother store owner Johanna Kalliwoda. The new location has a real presence, and thanks to a 20 metre display window, the store now enjoys a good deal of street-side visibility. "Experience has shown that people drive by three times, and on the third time, they stop and get out," Johanna says with a grin. The location attracts new customers every week, but no big crowds, allowing First to retain its highly intimate atmosphere. There's no need for the usual inner-city quest for parking spots, and people can park directly in front of the door. This is a big advantage for customers who travel from throughout the Rhine-Main region to find particular brands at First like Jitrois and Ilaria Nistri. These are fashions that are not always easy to understand and that customers often have to try on first before things really click. However, Johanna and Immo Kalliwoda are on hand to help their clients come to terms with extraordinary articles of clothing. "It's all spacious and relaxed in our store. We take the time to chat – and we can talk about the designers and convey information more effectively," says Johanna.

The Kalliwodas have used the move to give the brand portfolio an even more upmarket position. They order primarily in Paris, which is a frequent destination for their fashion expeditions. But an increasing number of designers are contacting them via e-mail, and this sometimes leads to minor lucky breaks. Names like Givenchy, Moncler und J Brand are the main draw, but the owners are not interested in most brands, which are too widely diversified for their taste.

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with bespoke shoe manufacturing from labels like Rocco P. and Alberto Fasciani, and articles can be reordered individually. "Our customers know that they are primarily buying durable products in our store," says Johanna. "These articles are not normally out of fashion after one season, but last a long time because the quality is right." They also have an entry-level price range with L'Autre Chose and Maliparmi. Accordingly, when she changes the display window design every two weeks, she makes sure that she showcases articles of clothing for 150 euros to convince hesitators to venture inside the store. Indeed, despite the friendly atmosphere, First still comes across as exclusive and has not lost the loft atmosphere of the first store thanks to its high, bare concrete ceilings and smooth concrete floors. "'Just don't open a normal store!' That's what our customers told us," says Johanna with a laugh. One of the design highlights of the store is a '50s style round platform, but otherwise First sticks to the usual low-key shop decor.

Now, for the current season, First is introducing a small selection for men. "We were asked time and again why we didn't do something for them as well," she says. "You have to start somewhere, so we've decided it's time to make men somewhat happier, too!"

First. Mörfelder Landstrasse 106, 60598 Isen-Mittbach/Germany T 0049.69.689777580, www.first-frankfurt.de Move: 30 September 2008. Owner: Johanna Kalliwoda. Sales Area: 180 sqm.

Staff: 2.

Womenswear: Army Fur, Beyond, Blayde, J Brand, Giles, Givenchy, Herno, Ilaria Nistri, Isaac Sellam, It’s all about romance, Jitrois, L’Agence, L’Autre Chose, Malo, Maison Martin Margiela, Moncler, Yves Salomon, Stouls.

Shoes: Alberto Fasciani, Ash, Camilla SkovgaardChrissie Morris, Guillaume Hinfray, L’Autre Chose, Michel Perry, Premiata, Roberto del Carlo, Rocco P., Silvano Sassetti.

Accessories: Battle Pearls, Blayde, Claudio Cutuli,Givenchy, Horiyoshi, L’Autre Chose, Mad et Len, No. 10, Orciani, Riccardo Forconi, Yves Salomon.

Menswear: Isaac Sellam, John Varvatos, Maison Martin Margiela.

Shoes: Alberto Fasciani, Rocco P., Silvano Sassetti.

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First has maintained its loft atmosphere even after the move, with high, bare concrete ceilings and smooth concrete floors.

Johanna Kalliwoda, owner of First: "We want to be able to sell to our customers with a clear conscious and total commitment."

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144 EDITOR'S LETTER /// ABOUT US

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Recognition vs. Ignorance

wo-men’s fashion

By Stephan Huber, Publisher style in progress

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif, Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

N

ot that any more proof was needed, but the latest Bread & Butter and Premium trade shows have once again shown – very impressively – that Berlin is established as an international fashion capital.

It's funny that Berlin only partially realizes how this came to be. Germany and its media hardly understand it at all – or at least continue to misunderstand it. To re-emphasise this point and prevent legends from being made, the decisive factor behind this remarkable achievement is that risk-taking entrepreneurs (all Berliners by choice) implemented the right idea at the right time and in the right place. The city was and is, of course, the right place, both in a pragmatic sense (still inexpensive, relatively central, a capital city in the important European fashion market) and an emotive one (place to be, historically symbolic, morbidly charming). I'd venture to say, though, that Bread & Butter on its own, but especially the combination of Bread & Butter and Premium, would work anywhere that offers the fundamental conditions for such events.

Admittedly, in light of Bread & Butter's Catalan interludes, this is not such a daring statement after all.

The surprising fact is that, despite the obvious and enormous international success, despite a spectrum of brands and companies that is without a doubt globally unique, and despite an equally unique appeal for top international retailers, both these organisers still have to fight for recognition from the major national media (daily press, weekly magazines, etc.). This could simply be shrugged aside, for the only thing that matters is that WE – i.e. the trade visitors – like and accept what is offered to us there in such a concentrated, high-quality way. But it's not that easy. This ignorance towards fashion/clothing as a cultural asset, an economic factor, a communications tool and a whole range of other things is not just annoying, it's downright damaging. In the eyes of the so-called quality press, fashion is 411 style in progress

still considered to be somewhat superficial, to put it mildly. In the case of special editions invented solely for the purpose of generating advertising revenue, they are something to be handled with slight irony or, alternatively, with extreme exaggeration – for fear of being regarded as a consumer half-wit. Avoid contact with anything commercial or, if necessary for pragmatic reasons (advertising customers!), only with gloves on.

This might sound funny, but it isn't. Here in Germany and German-speaking countries, there's no serious media debate concerning our industry: any debate that goes beyond silly casting shows on commercial television and the catwalk glamour of Paris, most of which only contribute grotesque photos and rarely offer relevant, fashionable and sociopolitical insights.

But no one is capable of doing this, for the simple reason that they don't understand and are not interested in the real topics that drive our industry. As a result, in Berlin, media representatives mostly focus on shows (and the B-list celebrities who attend). This might be all right in one sense, but it shows a real lack of awareness concerning the international format and the actual relevance that both Bread & Butter and Premium have once again demonstrated in the accidental fashion capital Berlin.

Mid-term, this problem will solve itself, simply because media reps of the old order are losing out to the new generation of digital natives, who generate their knowledge from a completely different, modular form of media consumption.

Whether this will give fashion and the garment industry the kind of public status they need and deserve for any number of reasons – reasons we've brought up here on many occasions – still remains to be seen. Whatever the case, leaders in this industry will no longer have to beg for the gracious attention of the old media order. Because it won't matter any more. stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Managing editor Nicolette Scharpenberg nicolette.scharpenberg@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Elisabeth Bärnthaler, Sabine Berlipp, Alena Eckelmann, Petra Engelke, Isabel Faiss, Jeanette Fuchs, Miranda Hoogervorst, Claudia Janka, Thesy KneesBastaroli, Ina Köhler, Karolina Landowski, Kay-Alexander Plonka, Maria Prock, Nicoletta Schaper, Alana Wallace, Dörte Welti, Roswitha Wieser Photographers+Illustrators Yorick Carroux, Ashley DuPree, Sara Egbert Eiersholt, Christopher Fenner, Marcel Gonzalez-Ortiz, Esther Gebauer, Jake Hardy, Andreas Hechenberger, Sabine Liewald, Dirk Lindner, Giles Price, Antony Tran Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English editor Elizabeth d'Elsa English translations Word Connection Business Translation Service Printing Laber Druck, Salzburg Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627 BLZ 45010

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