x-ray 4.12 EN by UCM Verlag

Issue 04/2012 . 17th Year . 造 6.90

Drive Style and Lifestyle Drive culture in Los Angeles, Hamburg and London Sneaker, are you still there? The development and history of a classic A Welcome Change The London pop-up shopping mile Trends 2013 The most important looks from the fairs Cover Design by Swanski

PEPE MADE ME DO IT.

pepejeans.com

Editorial

Looking Forward While the European economy is still in turmoil, the fashion industry can't simply act like nothing has changed. Because fresh concepts are needed for changed markets. Trade fairs could help as a communication platform.

On the Cover

he Berlin Fashion Week proved to be more diverse this season than ever before. However, clarity wasn't one of its strengths. The Bread & Butter's earlier start will help to solve the scheduling situation. Karl-Heinz Müller's clear declaration of faith in Berlin did it good, helping to quieten persistent rumours about other locations. The industry has bigger problems to deal with at the moment than where they would all like to travel in the near future. The Southern European countries are cracking under a lack of buying power, the miserable summer has rained on business in Northern Europe, so that some traditional brands are fighting to save their sales figures and image. There are some rays of hope when it comes to fashion. Denim seems to be rallying. Intensively staged in the Temple of Denim, many retailers are backing the Evergreen from autumn onwards. You can learn more about colours, themes and materials in our trend review on Page 34. "What's your job?" is the name of our new column where you can read more about industry insiders from Page 24 onwards – in this edition we have Franz Alt, the specialist when it comes to washes. For those who prefer to drive their car than wash, learn from our "Just Take a Drive" piece, which is about the hottest cult hot spots in the world for wheels – in Los Angeles, Hamburg and London. From Page 56. We hope you enjoy this issue.

06 ––

__Cover_x212_DE.indd 1

22.02.2012 14:13

"At some point I noticed that I was doing art full-time."

Pawel Swanski

Vertigo and works of art on house walls don't go well together somehow. However, it works quite well for 32 year-old artist Swanski. The Warsaw-native has a weakness for art at dizzying heights, so we were especially happy that he downgraded to A4 format to design our cover motif. If Swanksi isn't standing on a crane on a 10 metre high wall, he is designing artwork for skateboard firms like Girl, Cliché or MOB, making animations for MTV, and he also has his own fashion label called Turbokolor. He painted in a crew called "The Team of Enthusiasts" together with M-City, Zbiok, Will Barras, Flying Fortress and The London Police. Thanks Swanski for designing our current issue, a pleasure for us!

content

08 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

06 Editorial 10 Right Now

WHAT'S THE STORY

16 Shoe Like You How topical is the theme sneakers? 20 Global Cosmos Quite Nearby Two family-owned shoe brands 22 Pop-up at Quite a High Level Fashion turns back to the streets

What's your job

24 Freshtex CEO Franz Alt talks about eco-friendly production technology

the talk

26 Fresh Wind in Munich Sven Mederer on the lifestyle fair bREEZE 28 "Actually, I'm Afraid of Heights" Cover artist Swanski's interview

fashion

30 Want It! 34 Have a Look! The trends for Spring/Summer 2013 46 Back to The Future Future Fashion meets Old School Style

Gotta go to

56 Drive Style and Lifestyle Drive culture in Los Angeles, Hamburg and London

in store

68 70 72 74 76 77

78 One Last Thing / Imprint

Retail News "We Aren't Fashion Designers" Elternhaus Hamburg The Legacy of a Generation Early, Munich The History of the Pearl Diver Riders Room, Hamburg Radically Pure Wali Store, Munich The Essence of a Woman Saffeels, Munich

Right Now Text Isabel Faiss, Ina Köhler, Alexandra Hawel Photos Labels

Liga Nova Berlin Impressions

The antidote for a rainy summer: The Agency Liga Nova has brought out the second edition of their guide to the capital with "Berlin Inspires." As a pocket guide or a mobile app: Local insiders from fashion, design, film, music & media share their very personal tips for getting through the summer — the best lunch, the best café, the nicest shop in Berlin and most of all lots of trends around fashion week, music week and Berlinale. With so much information, you can finally also enjoy rainy days and the upcoming autumn… The guide is available in bookshops and in stores for 6.95 euros or online at www.liganova.com. www.berlininspires.net

H.I.S. A Change in Leadership

Since April, Lutz Mai has taken over the position of Division Manager Brand at H.I.S. and is responsible for brand management. He has been the head of sales and distribution at the denim brand since 2009. Wolfgang Sahm, who, as managing partner had been successfully developing H.I.S. in the German market since 2008, has left the company. His shares go to the Otto Group. The Otto Group has established a new company for fashion and lifestyle brands, the "House of Brands GmbH," to which H.I.S. will belong. The company's new CEO is Wolfgang Müller-Tonder, who worked for the group in various positions to date. Under the umbrella of the House of Brands GmbH more lifestyle brands are expected be run and newly developed in the future. This includes, for example, the maritime label Arqueonautas, alongside H.I.S. in its portfolio. www.his-jeans.com, www.ottogroup.com

10 ––

Chris Sports/Qloom Cooperation and Changing of the Guard

Chris Sports Europe and Qloom Sports GmbH will in future be cooperating in sales and marketing together. The Chris Sports distribution company will be taking over distribution of the Swiss bike and bikewear label for the German-speaking countries. There are also changes in personnel involved in this move: Harry Gunz, responsible for Sales And Marketing at Qloom until now, has taken over Sales Management for Germany and Austria at Chris Sports for the spring/summer season. He is taking over the position of the former Managing Director, Thomas Stumpp, who has left the company to launch the new Super.Natural brand in Europe. Chris Sports was founded in Switzerland in 1990 and represents 20 labels in Switzerland, Austria and Germany as distributor. Qloom was founded by Didi Ruegg in St. Gallen in 2006. The label places importance on sustainable production according to the Bluesign Standard. www.chrissports.ch, www.qloom.ch

Bread & Butter Shifting forwards

The Bread & Butter will be moving its next exhibition forward by one day. Instead of Wednesday, as was the case to date, it will open its doors on Tuesday and will close on Thursday. Berlin's increased significance as a trade fair location and the highly concentrated schedule means that professionals visiting Berlin can no longer do everything in three days. "As a leading international trade fair, we have a responsibility to the industry and to Berlin," says the head of the fair Karl-Heinz Müller. He believes that, this way, the calendar of events could be sorted out, brands and designers could better coordinate shows and evening get-togethers. In addition, the integration of schedules would better suit the international buyers' calendar between Florence, Milan, Paris and Berlin. The following dates are confirmed for winter 2013: Tuesday 15th January to Thursday 17th January 2013. An opening party shall be held the evening before, on the Monday. www.breadandbutter.com

right now

Arc'teryx A Change at the Specialist

The Canadian outdoor company, which specialises in high-quality, innovative outdoor clothing, has a new general manager. Tyler Jordan, an employee since the very beginning and CEO since 2005, resigned from his position in May. His successor is the Belgian Vincent Wauters. He has already spent 15 years at Amer Sports, Arc'teryx's parent group, most recently he was in charge of IT and procurement. "Vincent Wauters will continue to write the Arc'teryx success story and will overcome the challenges that accompany rapid growth," says Andy Towne, president of Amer Sports Clothing. Since 2005, Arc'teryx has been part of the Amer Sport Group, other sports and outdoor brands also belong to the group, such as Salomon, Wilson, Suunto or Atomic. www.arcteryx.com

Meltin'Pot Expansion at the Top

Armando Belleris has taken over as Managing Director of the Italian jeans brand. Belleri, who was responsible for brands like Chevignon or Jet Set and finally G-Star in Italy, will open up international markets for Meltin'Pot. "In recent years, our focus has been on further developing the product range," says Augusto Romano, CEO of Romano SpA, the company behind Meltin'Pot which has its headquarters in Matino, Southern Italy. Alongside the markets that already exist in Italy, France, Germany, The Netherlands and Spain, countries and regions like Great Britain, Scandinavia, Belgium, Russia, China and Japan should be looked at in the future. Meltin'Pot has about 1500 customers in Europe; the collection, with its focus on denim, provides the capsule line KLSH alongside the main mid-price collection. www.meltinpot.com

07 Timberland/ The North Face New Top Levels at VF

The outdoor brand The North Face has a new Managing Director and Vice President for the EMEA region (Europe, Middle East, Africa) with Arne Arens. He succeeds Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart who has been acting as Vice President/General Manager for Timberland Europe since June. Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart came to The North Face in 2007 and has been Vice President responsible for expansion into the European markets since 2010. Both labels belong to the US American VFCorporation. Arne Arens has already been Vice President Sales for The North Face since 2010, he previously worked for Nike. In his new position, he will be reporting from Lugano to Rick Wood, Coalition President of Outdoor & Action Sports VF. There is also a change in the outdoor label's product management. Oliver Lang was appointed Vice President Product for The North Face at the end of May, he comes from the Intersport International Corporation. www.thenorthface.com www.timberland.com

The long-standing licence partners Bogner and Mustang have renewed their contract for Bogner Jeans. Up until now, the Bogner Jeans team in Künzelsau was responsible for design, sales and marketing in close cooperation with Bogner. "In expert circles, Mustang is an absolute denim specialist," says Willy Bogner, owner of Willy Bogner GmbH & Co KgaA. "For this reason, it was a logical move to also continue this successful cooperation in the future," he continues. "We are delighted that we could renew our contract with Bogner," says Dietmar Axt, CEO of the Mustang Group. A change of team is also linked to the renewal: From July, Alexander Groutars is taking on full responsibility for Bogner Jeans as Brand Manager; he reports directly to Dietmar Axt. Groutars brings with him experience in brand management and sales for brands like Hugo Boss, Max Mara and Falke. In August 2012, Jacqueline Sefranek stepped down from the executive board. However, she will remain active for Bogner Jeans in an advisory role up until the end of 2012. www.bogner.com

Bogner Jeans/Mustang Licence Renewal and a Change of Team

–– 11

Return-to.me Lost and found 2.0

Finding lost items really easily with the help of the internet? A trio from Germany had an innovative idea which has potential for high numbers of users. Thanks to their discovery, John Appoldt, Manuel Ströh and Peter Weißenbach won the start-up competition Startup Pioniere 2012. And this is how it works: Simply mark all important things like laptops, phones or keys with a "Täg" – this can be a sticker or a tag that is given its own nickname. If the item is lost, the person who finds it can leave a message on the website and can get in contact with the lucky return-to.me user, anonymously of course, protected by a nickname. Manuel Ströh on initial results: "In tests in Munich more than 80 per cent of the lost Tägs were found and reported." www.return-to.me

Eastpak/Wood Wood For the Modern Nomad

Eastpak, the accessory manufacturer, has brought out a capsule collection together with Wood Wood, the Danish streetstyle label. It draws its inspiration from desert themes which has resulted in a ten-piece line of bags and accessories such as backpacks, weekenders or shoulder bags. The selection of material is unusual: Waxed canvas, leather and suede as well as embroidery carried out in folklore style highlight the nomad look. Prices range between 40 and 220 euros. The line has been on sale since June. www.eastpak.com, www.woodwook.dk 11

Protest und Keikisurfer Promotion of Up-and-Coming Talent

Learn from the Greats: Protest, the board sport label, is supporting the initiative of Keikisurfer. Here, wavy-crazy adolescents can take part in different projects to complete training in kite- and windsurfing at an affordable price. A professional team of trainers are available in cooperation with local surf schools as part of a two-day wind- and kite surfing camp. At the same time, they and their teachers are equipped with materials from Protest. In the summer, the up-and-coming surfers met up with professionals at the Kite World Cup in St. Peter Ording which took place from 6th to 15th July 2012. At the event they were able to demonstrate their skill parallel to the Greats. www.keikisurfer.com, www.protest.com

12 ––

Skechers Charity Marketing

Skechers announced in July that the first one million pairs of shoes were donated to children in need. This would be generous, were it not linked to the regular sale of a pair of new shoes. The principle is not new. If a customer buys a new pair of shoes, a leftover-stock model (purely hypothetical) is donated to a child in need. That is how the surplus is depleted while creating a "nice guy" image. What customers are still inspired by this charity bubble? The children benefit from it anyway. US actress Brooke Burke is supporting the BOBS donation programme through a global advertising campaign, the costs of which may far exceed the actual value of the donations. www.skechers.com

Khujo Sales Director Found

The HTS Textilvertriebs GmbH from Hamburg has had a new Sales Director since 1st July. Marten Schulze will be heading the Khujo Sales Team in future, replacing Guido Wolf who left the company in March. Schulze's responsibilities also include development of Khujo's European export market. He has previously worked for several years as Head of Wholesale Central Europe at Mustang. He has extensive experience in the fashion industry: After working for H&M and in the sales force at Mustang and Timberland, he also managed his own distribution agency in the interim period. www.khujo.com

right now

Henrik Vibskov Distinguished

The Danish designer Henrik Vibskov was admitted as an official new member into the French Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine in Paris. This special award was also presented to Maison Martin Margiela at the same time. The two now belong to the illustrious circle of houses which include Christian Dior, Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent. "I have known Henrik Vibskov's work since 2003 when he participated in the Hyères Festival", says Didier Grumbach, President of the Fédération Française de la Couture. In a period when many claim that there cannot be any relation between art and fashion, Henrik proves the contrary", Vibskov has been showing his collection in Paris since 2003 and is the only Scandinavian designer on the official agenda. Vibskov has made a name for himself internationally through his artistic installations and collections. www.henrikvibskov.com

O’Neill Licensing Deal

The active brand O'Neill has awarded its European licence for footwear to the Dutch Bos Group. The contract includes all product lines such as men's, women's and children's shoes, sandals, boots and accessories like socks. "We are delighted to be cooperating with the Bos Group," says Willem Haitink, CEO of O'Neill. "They have proven that they understand the O'Neill brand and its tradition." Haitnik worked as General Manager for Converse EMEA until 2011. The Bos Group is the distributor behind shoe brands like Converse, Gant Footwear, Brooks or Wolverine which it markets in various European countries. The result of the cooperation between O'Neill and the Bos Group should hit the stores for the autumn/winter 2013/2014 season. www.oneill.com, www.bosgroup-int.com

55 DSL A Heart for the Next Generation

The lifestyle brand, 55 DSL, selected the best Guerilla Marketing Concept together with the Association for Ambient Media & Promotion Austria. The competition was advertised at the Applied Universities of Vienna, Sankt Pölten and Wieselburg. Lisa Vockenhuber from the AU Vienna was awarded first prize, her campaign in cooperation with the Longboard community in Vienna was a convincing win. Second place went to a team from the AU St. Pölten, third place also went to Vienna. Celebrations took place in the form of burger and hot dogs and a pop-up fashion show with the label. www.55dsl.com

–– 13

Sport Muenzinger Welcome to Football Heaven

Euro 2012 and no end in sight: At the beginning of June, for the start of the European Championship, the Munich sports classic Münzinger reopened its store in the town hall on Marienplatz after six months of renovations. The store, which spans 650 square metres, has specialised in football and so provides a unique home for those who are crazy about football. With players' jerseys, individually embroidered shoes, Bundesliga and national jerseys and footballs as well as the DFB shop, here you can find almost everything that makes a footballer's heart beat faster. On the lower ground floor fans enter "football heaven:" A fresco on the roof provides the appropriate setting for a small sneaker museum, with streetwear from adidas and Nike to Puma and Converse. This should help pass the time until World Cup 2014 very nicely... www.sport-muenzinger.de 19

Fornarina/ISKO Capsule Collection Launches

The Italian Fornarina label has presented a new capsule collection for women at the Bread & Butter. Fornarina Perfect Shape pushes the figure with an Ultraslim-Fit and is designed to sculpt the body perfectly. The line has been created together with the Turkish material manufacturer ISKO, known for its innovative denim. Their patented Recall-in-Shape-Material in the collection guarantees high elasticity and comfort. There are twelve washings in the line, ranging from dark blue to light blue with an additional seven fashionable colours. www.fornarina.com

14 ––

Diesel All-under Denim

Real freaks among jeans fans can now also wear blue under their favourite slacks. With its line "Underdenim" Diesel has created a line with an authentic appearance: In classic or boxer style, soft cotton, an elastic waistband with diesel branding weaved in. These are the basic features. What sets it apart is the detailing: typical stitching and a blue palette with three colours complete the jeans look. The underwear line was actually already shipped this summer and is available in stores for about 25 euros. www.diesel.com

Ahmet Mercan

Thomas Reichsthaler

Lacoste Footwear Promoted

The cult brand is expanding its international footwear sales team by two players: Thomas Reichsthaler and Ahmet Mercan will be responsible for strategic sales development. Reichsthaler, who was Key Account Manager for Austria/Croatia/Slovenia to date, is now taking over EMEA North in Northern and Eastern Europe. Up until now, Ahmet Mercan was the Key Account Manager for Germany. He will be jointly responsible for EMEA East in Southern Europe. Both report to Robert Stöckl, Regional Vice President EMEA, Pentland Chaussures Ltd. "We are delighted to have Thomas Reichsthaler and Ahmet Mercan, two capable and dynamic employees from within the company, in the international team. They will be responsible for supporting our distributors and trading partners well on an international scale," says Stöckl. www.lacoste.com

right now

Mavi Go for Gold

Cooperations have long been good form. The jeans label Mavi has now brought a very special personality on board. The British designer Hussein Chalayan has designed the first premium collection Mavi Gold by Hussein. This was premièred in Berlin at the Bread & Butter. In future, different international fashion designers will be working for Mavi Gold every year - Chalayan is the first in the series. Between 15 to 20 styles were showcased, presenting his experiments in fit and so-called Shape-Shifting-Styles: Dark denim and the flexible stretch material x-fit were used just as much as elastic bands or black mesh. "I wanted to work with Mavi because the label is well-known for an exceptional quality of denim and the excellent fit of their jeans", says Chalayan who has made a name for himself with innovative and experimental collections. Mavi Gold by Hussein Chalayan consists of 15 to 20 styles which include Skinny Jeans, dresses, shorts and tops. Retail prices range between 99 and 150 euros. The line can be seen in selected denim stores and in own Mavi flagship stores in New York, Montreal, Istanbul, Berlin, Frankfurt and Düsseldorf from summer 2013. www.mavi.com

Pepe Jeans London Vettel as Guest

In the Formula 1, he fights off stiff competition to reach first place. But, the popularity of the racing driver Sebastian Vettel continues unabated. At the Bread & Butter in Berlin, the world champion from the Red Bull Team was the star guest at the Pepe Jeans' booth. Pepe Jeans London sponsors the Red Bull's Formula 1 team. A photo shoot had taken place the previous morning at Berlin's tube station where Sebastian Vettel was the prominent model, in the afternoon he faced a huge media crowd at the largest denim trade show in the world. www.pepejeans.com

Frontlineshop Staged Fashion Show

Not only in the digital world at home: The Hamburg online retailer frontlineshop will host its second fashion show in November. Excerpts from the spring/summer collection of street style brands, making up approx. 60 runway looks, shall be seen at the show. This includes brands like Adidas, Carhartt, Fornarina, Fred Perry, Lee, Levi's or Vans. Back in 2010, they first made the step towards the catwalk, pop-up stores in Hamburg and Berlin also showed excerpts from the company's comprehensive product range. www.frontlineshop.com

Replay Event in the Garden

A sweet summer night outdoors – inside, mild temperatures in the Secret Garden by Replay. The Italian brand held the stylish summer event in Berlin and transformed the former mint in Berlin into a party location – almost like Bella Italia. Later the CEO Matteo Sinigaglia presented excerpts of the spring/summer 2013 collection. Star DJ Mark Ronson had the bright mix of fashion and celebrity personalities dancing until the early hours of the morning, he was supported by the American singer Reva de Vito. www.replay.com

–– 15

16 ––

Sneaker Business –– what's the story

Shoe Like You No other lifestyle segment has traditionally been accorded as much potential for innovation as the sneakers segment. But the image presented by the wider sneaker business nowadays, would almost put you to sleep. Has the gym shoe lost momentum after all the hype, or has the business become a bottleneck? Text Isabel Faiss Illustration Henning Weskamp/Typeholics Photos Labels 01

t's true that in recent years a new segment has appeared in the market in the form of the casual or hybrid sneaker," says Till Jagla, Sales Manager at Adidas. "Driven by a very smart look, casuals in the footwear sector became increasingly popular and in demand. They were a significant presence. However, I would like to rebut the claim that casuals have crowded out the innovative gym shoe. Rather, it's the case that the brands have reached a new consumer with the new segment and this exists alongside their classic gym shoe business. The brand from Herzogenaurach was one of few who managed to maintain a certain standing with the few remaining key accounts for choice sneakers, despite widely distributing casuals in the commercial arena. With their philosophy of diversification, Adidas' product portfolio is a symbol for all development in the market, because the gap between the product range for the general population and the top of the range products for sneakerheads continues to widen. There aren't many left, maybe a dozen stores, who vehemently and passionately fight against the optical obliteration of the sneaker scene by casuals in the wider sneaker business, and in their stores they still show what makes their segment so valuable. This monopoly-like situation on the German market has led to them pulling together as a small elite, where they have mutual ex-

Sneakers as a kind of status symbol – that was once. It seems that innovation may have shifted down a gear, at least in the retail sector.

changes, evaluate each other, and celebrate unpretentious passion for sneakers. These are stores like A Few in Düsseldorf, Solebox in Berlin, 43einhalb in Fulda, Amen in Munich, The Good Will Out in Cologne, Glory Hole in Hamburg, Azita in Frankfurt, Beatnuts in Regensburg, Asphaltgold in Darmstadt, Overkill and Stickabush in Berlin or the Hype Gallery in Bochum.

Change for the Better After the great run on sneakers we saw about eight years ago at all levels, things have since slowed down again. "The mass market, which arose from the former niche market, makes the theme increasingly uninteresting because the end customer is also becoming more and more saturated. Therefore, it is extremely important to always continue to introduce new things into the market," says Hikmet Sugoer of Solebox. Put simply, the thing is: Many new brands haven't managed to outlive the hype of the past, also because they were too high-end for the bread and butter business. In specialist stores, as ever, the law of the survival of the fittest has proven to be true. The long-hyped new and old skate brands disappeared and, in the end, a small niche emerged once again. The gap that appeared in the commercial business was filled by no-name sneakers and cheaper variants of brand products, but also by the broadly-interpreted collection segments by some key players such as Puma, Nike, Adidas or Converse. What remained was monotony on the one hand, and the reignited passion of sneakerheads on the other. Same Image on the Street. For the core community, it

01 "From the very beginning, we made sure that we didn't have a big cost structure weighing us own that would force us to have huge turnovers. Therefore, and because we already have many regular customers, we can really buy up to 80 percent of that which we find interesting. We would like it if the markets could make a bigger selection of shoes available to us, like is the case in Asia or the US. Because we ourselves are informed customers, we always want to get the hip, new thing for our stores, so we don't have to order it somewhere else." Andreas Biergen, A Few Store

02 "At the moment, a lot of discussions are underway about how long the casual trend will last. However, we believe that casuals will remain a long-term and permanent part of a balanced product portfolio. Nevertheless, we are seeing at the moment that many customers are again trying to have a different focus and find a product that isn't as comparable or interchangeable. It's not only the retailers who want to differentiate themselves from their competition, the consumer, once again, wants to wear more striking footwear. Therefore, currently in the industry, it's clear to see that more colourful shoes are brightening up the dark shoe walls and shelves. This development will be noticeably underscored in the orders for the second half of 2012." Zitat Till Jagla, Adidas

–– 17

The sneaker connoisseurs Oliver Baumgart and Mischa Krewer guarantee their customers that they can give a ten-minute talk on every model in their store in Fulda.

"We design two thirds of our product range in a progressive way, and one third is commercial. You simply have to have something a bit barmy, even if no one buys it at first. We see certain investments in purchasing as our marketing budget. The best example of this is a package from Adidas, which will come out at the end of the year. It includes braces and a jumper with oversized LED bears, which is pretty crazy. The package costs between 700 and 800 euros. If we were to only stock the same old products that everyone expects, we might as well write Mummy's Shoe Store on our store and sell Gabor." Mischa Krewer, 43einhalb, Fulda

couldn't have been better. As a result of a shortage in the market, the desire for noncommercial products rose. After the mainstream over-distribution of commercial casuals, the business is now going back to its roots and has the opportunity to regain its position as an engine for image and innovation. This is because industry is claiming unofficially that the business is becoming more and more of a bottleneck that concentrates on the saleability of a product, instead of seeing a coherent collection as a complete statement, and buying the image pieces too. "When someone buys shoes, they like to go for what they already know or whatever seems easiest or safest when it comes to selling them on. These are usually models that have already been on the market, but these seem to be somewhat boring or less innovative, even to the buyer himself," says Michael Preß of Beatnuts in Regensburg. "We would be shooting ourselves in the foot, if we were no longer brave enough to create innovations or trends. In general, we can't afford to think only of the short-term and only see the season twelve months ahead. This is exactly what many of our customers expect." The store is one of a small elite of stores that

18 ––

really is in the position to set trends and create hype. "It's important for us to display very high-end products that, to date, may not have been accepted or understood by customers. But that's exactly what our image is, that we're the first in our region to display certain themes and trends. That's how we survive,' says Michael Preß.

Together Rather Than Alone Off the record in talks, a store list is being discussed, which brands like Adidas, Puma and Nike display at trade fairs, and in which they call for tenders for possible cooperation from top-ranking candidates. Whoever makes it onto the list enjoys a privilege, which, in the past, they only bestowed upon the Nike Tier Zero account. Rightly, when you hear Tier Zero, you think you have been transported back to the ‚00s, but the exclusive service is now in full swing again, where necessary keeping the few remaining image stores on board. At the same time, cooperation with brands has become much friendlier, we meet at each others' levels. "When we began with Solebox, it was difficult to get any account from brands. Today the market is overflowing with shops that do the same

thing. In comparison to eight years ago, now, we, as a new shop, can get the most exclusive products very easily," says Sugoer. "Something has definitely shifted in our cooperation with brands. This is a logical consequence of the development in recent years. Many brands are marketing their products much more broadly, as well as this of course, a lot of new ones have appeared," summarises Michael Preß. "Many people who wanted to enter the lifestyle market needed to get the attention of the retailers. The same went for those who wanted to penetrate the core skate market. Some big brands, with their action sports collections and the level of exclusiveness behind them, were also not really taken seriously at first. Because their image up until then didn't suit the core skate image in any way. There are brands, to whom we also say a clear no, because we know that they are about over-inflating a theme they have tested with a handful of image stores, in order to then release it onto the mass market after a short period. That's not our aim as a store. With a clean retailer structure that doesn't grow too fast, the market can be better controlled by brands. Only then do both sides get something out of it," says Preß.

Sneaker Business –– what's the story

For its tenth anniversary, Solebox is presenting special partnerships with all brands it works with.

Who has what it takes? Demand from image stores for more exclusivity in the product portfolio, and selectivity in the sales strategy, is met first and foremost by Adidas and Nike with a multifaceted, expanded range of products that has something for every customer and meets every requirement. When it comes to innovation, these two brands come first, always followed by Asics, New Balance and K1X. And Lacoste, which, no doubt because of its history, was never particularly connected with the scene has managed to reverse this through clever partnerships. Puma is now being talked about more positively again, after the brand was, just like Reebok, harshly penalised for its for over-distribution. "We are currently experiencing an exciting change of tack. Many manufacturers shut down this whole retro theme for far too long. Now, they realise that there is great potential for growth in the lifestyle and streetwear sector and are coming on board wholeheartedly. For this reason, sporting-goods manufacturers also dared to move into the fashion sector more. But what no longer works is taking old models from the archive and releasing them," says Mischa Krewer from 43einhalb. "At the moment, it really seems like we have seen everything and it's difficult to imagine that there is still work to be done in the future. 50 years ago, nobody would have presumed

that there would be shoes with mini-processors that can tell you how high you jump or how fast you walk. Therefore, I'm certain that we can expect some innovations in the future that we can't predict nowadays either," says Andreas Biergen of A Few Store. However, the sobering fact is that innovation is hardly ever introduced by new brands in the shops. As a new brand, Fleak Footwear, Mischa Krewer provides sneakers that are handmade in Germany. However, unfortunately, other names are left out by the appropriate sneaker nerd blogs and store managers. If there is a lack of innovative spirit in the market, then that could be the ideal gap for newcomers with good ideas to fill. Just a thought... x

WWW –––––––––– www.solebox.de www.afew-store.com www.overkill.de www.amen-store.com www.43einhalb.com www.beatnuts.de

03 "The biggest problem is that the sneaker market is robbing itself of its own foundation, because exclusivity has become inflationary. We began in a time when limited products were limited and select products were selective. The segment in which we work reacts very sensitively to what is seen to be under selection or limitation. Thanks to globalisation, exclusivity is no longer possible at a national level. In the past, you could search for a special or rare product abroad because there was such thing as regional products. Today, people look for the cheapest price because the products are otherwise identical. Regional products would be a starting point that could be used to increase the desirability of the niche once again. Products that aren't easy to get are simply in more demand. We are a marketing tool for brands. Unfortunately, every brand has not yet understood this." Hikmet Sugoer, Solebox 04 "The sneaker sector, in particular, depends on the people who buy and sell the products. We must create innovations regularly. Even if they don't do well at first, usually after one or two seasons they bear fruit. And an image store also has to be this way: Here, we give our customers the opportunity to inform themselves. It doesn't make any sense to try to deliver a new, huge innovation every year. The differentiation between bulk and high-end products is so advanced that one or two good models in the store per season can provide enough experience and customer feedback for the next buying session." Michael Preß, Beatnuts

–– 19

Representative rooms: The former shoe factory Neuffer am Park act as headquarters for Kangaroos and flip flop.

Global Cosmos Quite Nearby

The universe of the Bernd Hummel company is situated at the end of an idyllic street in Pirmasens in the south of Germany. Two completely different shoe labels can be found under one roof here, Kangaroos and flip flop – both firmly in family hands. Text Ina Köhler Photos Kangaroos, flip flop

irmasens used to be quite well known for its footwear production. Practically every second pair in Germany was made here during the '60s. But now, hardly anything remains of the once proud industry. Production has migrated, the often empty factories are now just silent witnesses to a former glorious past. Yet, a number of companies are still international players in the footwear business. Bernd Hummel is one of them. As his company headquarters, he has breathed new life into the former shoe factory from

20 ––

the pioneering days at the end of the 19th century using his considerable expertise whilst reaping an architectural prize into the bargain. Today, in addition to offices, café, fitness studio and conference rooms, Neuffer am Park also houses exhibitions from international artists. Since his daughters, Julia (at Kangaroos) and Anne-Katrin Hummel (at flip flop), joined him on the management team, succession is now guaranteed. Both brands, which are very different, work largely independently from each other. Howev-

flip flop

In 2006, Bernd Hummel bought the rights to the flip flop shoe label, his daughter Anne-Katrin Hummel shaped the new look. Under her direction, the line has been developed into a fully-fledged collection. There are own stores in Berlin, Amsterdam and Cologne. The label is distributed by around 250 retailers, including KaDeWe in Berlin, Breuninger and Ludwig Beck. www.flip-flop.de

bernd Hummel –– what's the story 02

"Kangaroos represent a fresh, urban lifestyle." Brand Manager Marco Lachner er, the close contact within the family-run business can be clearly felt. Anne-Katrin originally started off working in Berlin but has now returned to Pirmasens. "Quite simply, I have other opportunities here and the lines are much shorter", says the 34-year old entrepreneur. This becomes clear on visiting the extensive showrooms and design studios in loft style with views across the green Palatinate Forest - so much space is priceless luxury elsewhere. Under her direction, flip flop has been transformed from simple thonged

Kangaroos

The Bernd Hummel GmbH was founded in 1976 by the owner of the same name. In 1981, he signed a license agreement in the US regarding design, production and distribution of the Kangaroos brand. Today, he is the world's largest licensee of Kangaroos and distributes them in more than 20 countries in Europe and Eastern Europe. In 2010, the heritage lines Roos Red and Black (global licence) was founded. Julia Hummel is joint Managing Director of the brand with her father, Marco Lachner is Brand Manager and Sven Bürkle is Marketing Manager. Cooperation collections with Patta, the Amsterdam shoe store, and with Wemoto and a capsule collection sold at Colette in Paris, are image-building. www.kangaroos.de

01 02 03-04

sandals to a fully-fledged collection that also successfully offers clothing. She developed a capsule collection with Kostas Murkudis. Inherently, she is an architect which helps in more ways than just in the design process. "It is important to think the line through from beginning to end – from the first sketches to the campaign and design of the stores." And that is pure, uncomplicated and reduced, like the collection. flip flop represents affordable luxury: ballerina shoes, boots, wedges and sandals in a wealth of colours. AnneKatrin Hummel pays particular attention to quality. The insoles of the ballerina shoes are padded underneath, the thonged sandals made of natural rubber, all shoes are tested for comfort. Anne-Katrin Hummel quickly conquered the German-speaking market and Italy with the concept. At the moment, Scandinavia is on her wish-list. In May, she opened the third European store in the Ehrenstrasse in Cologne and can well imagine others. "It is easier to represent the depth of the collection in one's own shop."

Two Brands with Character A floor lower down and you enter a different world: the world of Kangaroos. Showroom and design laboratory are also housed in the spacious industrial loft. The brand originated in the US, but the look for the European market comes from Germany where the brand image is shaped with a great deal of passion. "Kangaroos represent a fresh, urban lifestyle", says Brand Manager Marco Lachner. The latest collaboration with big names from

Family ties: Anne-Katrin and Bernd Hummel are jointly behind the flip flop collection. The company founder is also responsible for Kangaroos. Cool and clear: The new flip flop store in Cologne shows the colourful look of the collection. Creative think tank: In the loft atmosphere, Brand Manager Marco Lachner and his design team are working on the current designs for Kangaroos.

the scene such as Patta, the Amsterdam cult store, certainly pays off for the brand. "The boys bring an incredible amount of input into the designs based on our shoe archives", says Lachner. So, although the results of the capsule collection will only be supplied to a handful of stores worldwide, the lines will nevertheless be important for repositioning, also in cooperation with brands such as Wemoto. A similar thing applies to the Roos Red premium line. "It is important for the sneaker business because we can strengthen our expertise and credibility", says Marco Lachner. Kangaroos, however, don't only stand for sneakers, they also produce a wide range of shoe models such as the successful kids line. Functionality plays a key role, for example, the cushioning Dynacoil sole. Lachner drew up strict guidelines with his design team for the brand - from typographics to branding. "Every Kangaroo shoe must be fitted with a functioning pocket", says Lachner. He is working on an even clearer positioning for the future. There are already a number of ideas bubbling in the creative think tank in Pirmasens. This includes, for example, taking up production partially in Germany again. The company has bought a shoe factory in the neighbouring town where limited editions for Kangaroos and flip flops are to be made in the future. Shoes - made in Germany – is it worth it? "It applies to selected models that price-wise are also positioned correspondingly", says Lachner. A small start though that could be replicated – after all, there is a lot of unused know-how in the region. x

–– 21

Pop-up at Quite a High Level WWW ––––––––––

Bringing fashion back to where it originated from – on the streets. This is what Roger Wade, founder of the Boxfresh label and initiator of the Boxpark project in London's Shoreditch intends.

www.boxpark.co.uk

Text Nicolette Scharpenberg Photos Boxpark

22 ––

Boxpark –– what's the story

containers into Box-Shops. This has resulted in a radical new retail concept revolutionising the so often fixed shopping zone atmosphere, housing a sophisticated mix of streetwear and fashion brands as well as creating around 200 new jobs. For established brands, the containers provide a playground in which to showcase lim-ited capsule collections. Newcomers and young designers talk proudly about their first own store. Foundation such as Art Against Knife and Amnesty International launched their first own gallery here. "In times of increasing digitisation of fashion, it was our intention to develop something radically at odds. Boxpark is to bring fashion back to where it originated from - on the streets", says Roger Wade, Project Initiator and Founder of the Boxfresh streetwear label. "Boxpark is an XL-retail community made up of many small concept stores, giving young designers the opportunity of their own shops and established brands a platform in which to showcase the Below-the-Line trends."

PLAYGROUND FOR BRANDS

he Boxpark project is one of its kind. It is the world's first pop-up shopping mall, based in the heart of London's East End, the vibrant and trendy Shoreditch area. Since autumn 2011, around 61 corrugated containers have been stacked next to and on top of one another at the Shoreditch High Street Station, creating a shopping empire. It's loaded with fashion, art and delicacies. This means it fits in perfectly with the district's creative surroundings made up of galleries, artist studios, designers, boutiques, cafés and club scenes. The concept is to convert empty shipping

So, Carhartt is next to Calvin Klein, The North Face next to NikeID Studio, Lacoste Live next to Abuze London, Levi's next to Vans or Smiley next to 55 DSL –all packed in twelve-squaremetre container boxes. The interiors are made up of wooden panelling or shelving systems made from scaffolding poles. "Nike has realised its first worldwide concept store here, but there are also lots of smaller labels such as Abuse, who have been given the opportunity of launching their own first ever store", says Wade. The facets are colourful, Levi's recently launched their Levi's Commuter Range, a collection specially tailored to the needs of cyclists, and so opened a pop-up bike shop in the courtyard of the park. Customers can have their old bicycles pimped up and shop for the matching style at the same time. The retail concept is rounded off with regular concerts, art exhibitions and parties. Bistros and bars exclusively use fresh products, home-made sauces and meat from the local markets in the region. The project combines sustainability with innovation as the boxes can be pulled down and rebuilt within the space of two weeks. The project is initially planned to span five years. The date and location of the next stop remains as yet unknown, hidden behind the corrugated walls. x

"Boxpark wants to be radical. It shouldn't end up like the thousands of shopping malls that all look alike in every major city. Boxpark is a community with a mutually inspiring attitude." Roger Wade, CEO Boxpark

01 02 03

Since autumn 2011, the Boxpark pop-up shopping mall has been revolutionising the fixed shopping zone atmosphere. Boxpark is an XL-retail community with a colourful mix of young designers and established brands. Small bistros and cafés only offer organic products.

–– 23

What's your job? Franz Alt is a myth, that's what you believe when you spend weeks trying to reach him at his second home on the Philippines, where Freshtex's production factories are also located. What also contributes to his myth is his reputation as a driver of innovation and a pioneer in the field of eco-friendly production technology. The pre-stage is sheer excitement, who would have thought it? And who would have thought that we then still managed to get the CEO in front of a mic? Interview Isabel Faiss Photos Freshtex

This company from the textile pre-stage process was one of the first to discover and implement the issue of sustainability: Freshtex also manufactures in the Philippines.

r. Alt, you are in the Philippines at the moment. Business or pleasure? Franz Alt: A while ago we decided internally that it made sense for one of us to be on site at our factories in the Philippines. More and more top European brands are being produced by us here. They appreciate having a European contact on site, who knows how business works in the West and how things are done in the Philippines.

"I would put the designers into the production process and adapt the margins of the pre-stage to those of the brands." Franz Alt, Freshtex owner 24 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Fashion dictator for a day: If you were all-powerful for one day, what would you change? I would put the designers into the produc-

Freshtex –– What's your Job?

Freshtex

Freshtex was set up in Heilbronn, Germany in 1954. Since its first day, the company's management's ethos has been to produce profits according to fair, environmentally-friendly and ethical principles. Today, Freshtex works as a textile service provider all around the world. The company is certified by the GOTS. www.freshtex.com

tion process and I would adapt the margins of the pre-stage to those of the brands. Did your company have any moments of glory recently? This year we have already had some special moments. Whether these can be described as moments of glory remains to be seen. But the moment that made me really happy was when my son joined the firm after finishing his studies. He brings a new approach and fresh perspectives with him. Fashion innovations when it comes to shapes, style and new interpretations of bygone eras are fading into the background in contrast to the opportunities in the field of materials. Here, the pre-stage takes on an increasingly important function as a provider of ideas and participates directly in the creative development process of a collection. Against this backdrop: How has what your company is required to do changed in recent years? More and more is expected of us in all areas: Sustainability, innovations in the areas of washes and dyes, uniting combinations of materials with diverse finishes and, more than anything, bringing the price down all the time. That's already quite a package we have to deal with. Therefore, it is particularly important that you have a special field, like we do, as a pioneer in the field of sustainable washes and finishes. What advantages do you see in these new requirements? Not every competitor can keep up with us on this upward spiral. So, I don't expect new players to emerge, rather that some will be left behind. If you are good, you can only really show your true potential in this situation. In which fields and themes do you see the biggest potential for innovation? In the field of garment dye and the further development of ozone technology. It's unbelievably exciting, what is happening here and what progress is possible in this field.

05 01-04 05

Company owner, Franz Alt, has moved his home to the Philippines so that he is always on site at his company's production facilities. A collection's degree of innovation heavily depends on the innovations at the material level. Freshtex faces many new challenges.

More and more pre-stage companies are making the move towards establishing their own brand with a collection. What's your stance on this approach? It's a good idea, but it's not for us. We are service providers and innovators for the industry and we want to remain so. Also driven by growing interest among end consumers in the origin and production methods of a product, the pre-stage is being scrutinised more and more. We don't feel any pressure, possibly because we are very transparent and our operations are certified by GOTS among others. Therefore, not many questions are left unanswered. What we are noticing is more a demand for products that bring fashion and sustainability together. There is clearly still too little of this on the market. However, back to the issue of origin and transparency: When I see some of the things consumers buy at the verticals, then I can't believe that anyone is really interested in the country of origin or production methods. Of course there is an informed customer base, but the majority is still a long way from that. Unfortunately!

What risks do you believe are still connected to marketing lies like the "zero water pants"? That annoys me so much, but maybe the risk isn't that big. As I said, a huge proportion of consumers sadly don't have the expert knowledge to really judge whether or not "zero water pants" are a lie. Companies, who propagate this rubbish need to be challenged by the media before anyone. Or by organisations like Greenpeace. Only if work is done to clarify issues can the consumer get a picture. Freshtex relies on innovations like zero chemicals washes. How does this process work? That's a technical trade secret. Just that: You don't necessarily have to bleach blue denim. Here we don't just save on dye but also water and chemicals. It also works the other way around. This only works with the most modern technology. What's also exciting is your approach to the collection Planet Future. What can you tell us about it? Planet Future is our poster child when it comes to sustainability. Here we are showing what can be done. We develop, manufacture and dye according to the Organic Textile Standards guidelines and according to our internal Sustainability Guaranteed Guidelines. We connect top modern technology with the necessary expert knowledge, to develop a collection, which meets these high standards. Here, it's not just about the fabric or the wash for us, rather we also take into account e.g. how we produce steam – of course without using big oil companies, rather local fuels – and how we treat wastewater – of course we do this organically and not with chemicals. Just this week, our second business using local fuels and an eco-treatment plant is being implemented by Freshtex Bulgaria. All of this is part of our Planet Future collection. Thank you for speaking to us! x

–– 25

The talk –– breeze

WWW –––––––––– www.breeze-muc.com

Fresh Wind in Munich A Lifestyle Trade Show in Munich? The metropolis in the south of Germany seems to be the ideal spot for this. The first edition of the bREEZE took place from 16th to 17th June 2012 in Munich's Whitebox in the grounds of the cult factory. The consumer trade show wants to be a platform for both international and local labels. We talked with co-initiator Sven Mederer about the result. Text Nicolette Scharpenberg Photos Breeze

"Customers are yearning for deceleration, after those "good old days" in fashion. We want to rekindle this spirit again." Sven Mederer, bREEZE

hat is the feedback like from the first event? Sven Mederer: Very positive, both from the visitors who were really pleased to finally have an event like this in Munich too, as well as from the exhibitors who were able to present to a greater mass of potential customers. The date of the fair was scheduled to be anti-cyclical to the Berlin Tradeshow Run. Why was this? The first edition of bREEZE wasn't intended to be a trade show. The goal was to provide a launching platform for small local shops from Munich and upcoming labels from the region. Which is why we weren't tied to dates.

26 ––

There were a number of local and national labels, shops and designers amongst the exhibitors. Why this mix? Nowadays, many young labels with small marketing budgets have difficulty existing next to the big ones. So, we liked the thought of mixing local labels with international brands which also led to an exciting interaction at the same time. What makes your event so unique? We clearly focus on local businesses and want to show visitors that you don't always have to order online. Mainly, it's also a combination of individual cultural approaches: whether in terms of fashion, art, music - it is the culture we want to present and one that is always evolving. Give us a few facts: How many sneakers and sandwiches were sold? We had 26 exhibitors over 1,200 square metres of space and about 1,000 visitors over two days. I think that around 150 to 200 pairs of sneakers changed hands with the visitors, plus numerous T-shirts, jackets and accessories. Sandwiches & Co went like hot cakes.

fashion, after those "good old days". We wanted to rekindle this spirit again. In your portfolio, there is talk about the urge towards individualism in the young target group with the subject of customising. How far does the event enter into this development? Four or five of the exhibitors only develop their products to order and specifically tailor these to their customer's wishes. This includes bicycles (as upcycling projects), T-shirt designs, iPhone cases and jackets or waistcoats which all took place in direct communication between the exhibitor and the consumer. What have you learnt from the first event? In Munich, the location of the site is key which is why we are attempting to be in the city centre for the next edition and to activate local shops and brands more, mixing these with big international players. x

What made you so certain that a concept like this could still work in an apparently saturated trade fair landscape? It has a lot to do with passion and heart and soul. We all come from this culture, I, myself have worked in a variety of different shops. We know the business of shops that find themselves in a never-ending battle with the online stores of this world. After many discussions both with shop owners, designers as well as end consumers, we recognised that customers are longing for a deceleration in

breeze

bREEZE, Intoxicated Demons GmbH, Raiko Schwabe, 81673 Munich/Germany, T 0049.1577.3881151, Event location: Whitebox, Grafingerstrasse 6, 81671 Munich/Germany Next date: November 2012

The first bREEZE event lasted for two days and had around 1,000 visitors.

The Polish artist has a weakness for wall-filling motives.

At 15, Swanski had already started designing prints for T-shirts.

In addition to his freelance artwork, Swanski also has his own fashion label called Turbokolor.

Pawel Swanski

Pawel Swanski was born on 1st November 1980 in Warsaw. Today, he works as a freelance illustrator, graphic artist and painter. He founded his own label called Turbokolor in 2007 and also runs his own creative agency under the name Swanarts. He painted in a crew called „The Team of Enthusiasts“ together with M-City, Zbiok, Will Barras, Flying Fortress and The London Police. art portfolio www.swanofobia.com commercial work www.swanarts.com clothing company www.turbokolor.com

28 ––

Swanski –– the talk

"Actually, I'm afraid of heights" Swanski is painter, graphic artist and illustrator. Skateboarding and art are his passion. His addiction are artworks that fill house walls reaching up to dizzying heights. Text Nicolette Scharpenberg Photos & Illustrationen Swanski

wanski, you actually have a weakness for large areas, so we would like to thank you that you were willing to downgrade to a DIN-A4 cover for x-ray. Where does such a passion for wall-filling motives come from? Swanski: I grew up skateboarding and am influenced by its cosmos. I was never a graffiti artist though, even if I always walked around with marker pens or a few home-made stickers. It started with illustrations, then moved on to walls. After my friend Coskun from the A.F. Gallery in Cologne asked me to make a giant wall painting near his gallery, I was hooked. Because the feeling you get standing in front of a 20 or 40 metre tall wall which has your picture on it, is simply indescribable.

started off pretty typically really. We are a DoIt-Yourself generation. At 15, I'd already started designing prints for T-shirts and hoodies which I then sold to my friends. Extremely limited mini-editions of 30, sometimes only even ten pieces. And so the streetwear stone started rolling.

ground does a label need for you to be interested in being a cooperation partner? I have to be behind the brand. People behind Mob, Girl or Lakai are fully behind their brands. The most important thing for me is mutual respect. I can't be bought and I don't work for anything that I don't actually believe in.

Your motives often show mythical creatures from the animal kingdom. Why? My paintings are actually a study of the ecosystem which is actually much more important for us today than stuff like capitalism, for example. The thicket is independent, it is the beginning and the end, a nutrient and a consumer in one.

Besides your label and freelance artwork, you also operate a creative agency called Swanarts. What fields do your clients come from? Swanarts is the commercial part of what I do. It is a one-man studio where I, for example, make designs, illustrations or animations for customers like MTV or VH1.

Why did you choose this motive for the x-ray cover? Most of my motives show nature and animals. I call it a thicket. The cover motive shows my interpretation of the umbrella topic for this issue: shoes in Swanski dress.

You also have an own fashion label called Turbokolor. How did that come about? I always wanted to decide for myself what I wear and how it looks. Turbokolor makes art affordable because not everybody can afford one of my pictures but they can afford a Tshirt. At some point, it started to get serious and we decided to bring out an entire collection consisting of tops, trousers, hoodies, accessories and also a small experimental line called i by Turbokolor. All pieces are inspired by art and skateboarding. They serve as a textile code in order to support this culture.

How did you actually come to art? I've been drawing as long as I've been thinking and incidentally I'm also a designer and illustrator. After doing my A-levels I came to Germany to study here and started working as a freelance graphic artist. I started off doing skateboard designs for Hessenmob and Cliché, for example. In fact, I've probably studied life more in the studio and on the skateboard than I really did at Uni. Nowadays, you've made a name for yourself in the streetwear and skateboard scene. Where did this connection originate? Streetwear and skateboarding are really closely linked with one another. As skaters we already made dress code statements at an early age which, in turn, has hugely influenced other labels. My streetwear history

You have already created products for brands such as Nike, Mob Skateboards or Lakai Footwear. What back-

What's on your agenda for the future? I'm planning on travelling to the US to realise a few projects: two exhibitions are being planned for this year and a few cooperations. I love painting, travelling and spending time with my family. Basically, just being happy is on my agenda. If you had free choice, which building would you like to give a Swanski wholepiece? My dream is to do a really huge piece once day. Total madness, really, because to be honest, I'm afraid of heights.

Thank you for speaking to us. x

"Urban Culture isn't just about stuff like spending the night in front of a store so you can get the Must-Have sneakers, any more. It's a culture with people who move forward without compromises, often risking something too, but always doing what their heart tells them to do." Pawel Swanski

–– 29

Want it! Text Isabel Faiss, Nicolette Scharpenberg, Ina Köhler, Claudia Janka, Julia Lauber Photos Labels

01 Imaginary Foundation Artistic Merit

Photo-quality prints are the trademark of Imaginary Foundation from San Francisco. Set up in the '70s as an artists collective with Swiss roots, the designers have been working in fashion since 2002. The styles have also been available in German shops like Plazmalab in Berlin or Funbox in Stuttgart since 2011. European sales and distribution, apart from in the UK, is handled by Modano Germany in Ludwigshafen. From there, two collections per year, consisting of T-shirts, long-sleeved T-shirts and hoodies are sold in selected locations. Surreal prints, loud colours and details verging on the absurd, like a guitarist's tiny reflection in an astronaut's helmet, are the US brand's significant design characteristics. T-shirts cost about 16.90 euros, purchase price. With a markup of 2.4. ContaCt: Modano Germany, Andreas Böll, 78351 Bodman-Ludwigshafen/Germany, T 0049.1577.2732328, www.imaginaryfoundation.com

30 ––

Super.Natural Power from the Far East

03 Gitta Plotnicki That's swinging

The Chinese producer Shanghai Challenge Textile Ltd. wants to position itself on the European market with its own Super.Natural label. The company is one of the leading manufacturers of sportswear and produces for many of the international outdoor and sports' brands. Their own collection contains around 50 pieces, specialising in the combination of merino wool and high-quality synthetic fibres. As a result, the casual sportswear collection has a high degree of wearing comfort. Wholesale prices range between ten and 40 euros with a mark-up between 2.5 and 3.0. Thomas Stumpp, former Managing Director of Rossignol Germany and Chris Sports Europe, is currently expanding its sales and marketing. In addition to the German-speaking countries, focus will also be placed on Scandinavia, the Benelux countries, the UK, France, Italy, Spain and Russia. The collection was first presented to the European audience at the OutDoor in Friedrichshafen.

The designer Gitta Plotnicki is no stranger to handicraft, she finds it to be a great contrast to mass production. She consistently applies her philosophy with her line "Gitta Plotnicki – made in Germany." She found specialists living in Germany to carry out every step in the production of her collection which was manufactured with loving attention to detail. This is true from the blue printing method for silk scarves to the hand-rolled seams and labels in a Jacquard weave. Femininity is at the heart of her collection: Dresses, silk scarves, blouses, shirts embroidered on the Swabian Alps, and elegant bags. Her collection is the counterpoint to the masculine collection by her partner Peter Plotnicki, who, with Merz b. Schwanen, has developed a small, fine line of tops manufactured in Germany. Her own blog shows a kaleidoscope of beautiful places and things – from Clärchens Ballhaus in Berlin, famous for its swing nights, to the best bakery in the capital.

ContaCt: Super.Natural Europe GmbH, Thomas Stumpp, 82266 Inning/Germany, T 0049.8143.447012, www.supern8ural.com

ContaCt: Gitta Plotnicki, Dirk Thomas, 10178 Berlin/Germany, T 0049.176.23344122, www.gitta-plotnicki.com, www.gitta-plotnicki.blogspot.de

Want it! –– Fashion

04 Abury Everything pro bono

The press agency, the lawyer, the graphic designer, all, really all, of the participants in the Abury project make this their cause. This cause is primarily to support seamstresses in Morocco who produce artistic needlework for leather bags and leather accessories. Since the launch of the brand in May 2011 two sewing schools have already been set up in Morocco. Because expertise in the area of traditional embroidery is constantly being lost as a result of worldwide dumping prices. The Abury Foundation is therefore committed worldwide to maintaining these traditions of craftsmanship through reasonable prices. With special campaigns, for example customised products for Christmas, Abury funds itself through sales on its own web store. In addition, training and drinking-water projects are being run in these regions using additional donations. Anita Tillmann, CEO of the Premium in Berlin, has supported Abury from the beginning. ContaCt: Abury, Andrea Kolb, 10999 Berlin/Germany, T 0049.174.9208641, www.abury.org

05 Astrid jane No Frills

At Astrid Jane, reduction to the essentials is the motto of their collection of the same name. The trousers are designed in Belgium and sewn in Italy. So, the Astrid Jane collection, which was born in Nashville Tennessee, preserves its typical American casual character. Particular highlights are the brightly coloured denim models and narrow shapes in stretchy materials. Topped off with a chino line made of a combination of satin and cotton and a stretchy linen material. The trousers collection is already being sold and distributed in Belgium, The Netherlands, Luxembourg, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, England and the US. ContaCt: Astrid Jane, Lori Jacobs Showroom, New York/USA, T 001.212.9242466, www.astridjane.com

06 Titi Madam Lions and Tigers and Bears

Not an "Oh my!" in sight. Dorothy doesn't need to be afraid of these animals. Titi Madam's animals have a slick style template in the Wizard of Oz. The London accessories label, set up by Tina Hakala and Adam Rowe in 2007, conjures up the animal world on your neck, hands and ears. The theme for the necklaces, earrings, bracelets, brooches and rings, is anything that comes from the zoo or the forest. The main materials are wood and mirrored plastic. The label also offers a small range of home accessories, like e.g. an animal-shaped mirror. The pieces cost between four and twelve euros, purchase price, a mirror costs 17 euros. The brand is available at La Seda in Berlin, Cologne and Dortmund, at Busstop in Finland and at Dare to Just in London. ContaCt: TitiMadam, E83PN London/UK, www.titimadam.com

07 Rubber di nero Wrap-around Tyres

08 mein herzblut An End to Clichés!

An innovative recycling idea that stands for sustainability. The Danish bicycle designer Jan Herskind uses old bicycle tyres to produce belts for men and women. A unique piece for everyone. Making belts from tyres is not only a creative, but also an environmentallyfriendly idea. The Rubber di Nero belts are pretty much delicate, robust and long-lasting. They are produced in Denmark and the tyres come from all around the world. Every belt bears the "Welcome-Stopp-Mann" logo, thought up by the designer's brother Jacob Herskind. Together with him, Jan Herskind created fashion labels back in the '80s under the name Herskind&Herskind, which were sold in Harrods in London and Bloomingdales in New York, among others. The belts by Rubber di Nero are available in sizes 85, 90 and 95 at a retail price of 60 euros. The unique pieces are delivered in black cloth bags. They can be bought on the website.

Traditional costume and traditional clothing are as celebrated north of the River Main as root canal treatment. The Bavarian label Mein Herzblut confronts the old clichés with a brave collection: It consists of contemporary interpretations of dirndls, cardigans, traditional costume shirts and skirts, bags and jewellery. Wearable tradition that could also appeal to Northern regions. Christina Kronawitter from Straubing founded Mein Herzblut in 2004. She mainly uses vintage materials from the 1970s. What's new is the idea of street traditional costume, a combination of streetwear and traditional costume, everyday looks that should also exist outside of Bavaria. The list of stores where the brand is already represented is long anyway – with cities like Hamburg, Berlin, Kassel and Weimar.

ContaCt: Herskind & Herskind, Jan Herskind, 1437 Copenhagen/Denmark, T 0045.26322727, www.rubber-di-nero.de, www.herskind-herskind.com

ContaCt: Mein Herzblut, Christina Kronawitter, 94315 Straubing/Germany, T 0049.9931.8959171, www.meinherzblut.com

–– 31

fashion –– Want it!

Made in Europe Finest Leather

Their encounter with an 88 year-old shoe designer, a professional in the high art of leathercraft inspired Sophie De Bluze and Katherine Batliner. It motivated them to set up their own bag label in 2008. Made in Europe combines traditional craft with minimalist design. The design team works while scattered across several European cities. "We live and work in Paris, Vienna, Istanbul, Berlin, Zürich and Milan," says Batliner. Their first collection was created in 2011. The foundation of all of their products is high-quality Italian leather. Their focus is particularly placed on fish leather from salmon and perch, which is especially durable and tear-resistant. The design is simple on the outside and refined on the inside. The handbags, clutches, purses and pencil cases are lined with traditional Mühlviertler linen from Austria. French vintage upholstery fabric by Marcel Boussac is used for limited series. The products are currently still being sold through their own website. All prices on request. ContaCt: Made in Europe, Sophie De Bluze, www.madeineurope.at

10 MeerBrueder Piracy and Sea Creatures

11 Sutsu Clothing British Boardsport Company

MeerBrueder, a label from the heart of Hamburg that has a great affinity with maritime themes. MeerBrueder is for everyone who loves this city as much as brothers Sönke und Tobias Meergarten, who brought the brand to life in March 2009. "We offer printed shirts, hoodies, long-sleeved T-shirts or carrier bags for men and women. We always put emphasis on products that are fairly-traded and do not damage the environment," says Tobias Meergarten. The theme is, of course, based on everything the sea has to offer, whether it's legends of pirates, poisonous sea creatures or the deep sea. T-shirts and long-sleeved T-shirts currently cost 13 to 15 euros, purchase price, hoodies cost about 20 euro. At the moment, the brand is only available online at Sawanda, Etsy or their own online store.

With the success of Australian and American surf brands in mind, Jon Wallhouse set up Sutsu Clothing in London in 2009. His aim was to create a British equivalent that could keep up, in terms of charm, quality and environmental correctness. Since then, Sutsu Clothing has begun operating in eight countries, including France, Germany and the US. Plans are currently in development to begin marketing it in Scandanavia. Every year, two main collections, made up of 60 T-shirts, long-sleeved T-shirts and hoodies, as well as an interim collection for high summer, consisting of ten pieces, are distributed in Germany, Austria and Switzerland by Mondano Germany to shops such as Boarders in Munich, or Operation Green in Düsseldorf. Purchase prices range from ten to 25 euros, with a margin of 2.5. Bamboo skatedecks have been added to the product range.

ContaCt: Sönke & Tobias Meergarten GbR, 20459 Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.172.4370935, www.meerbrueder.de

32 ––

ContaCt: Modano Germany, Andreas Böll, 78351 Bodman-Ludwigshafen/Germany, T 0049.1577.2732328, www.sutsu.com

12 Untitled Denim in a different way

When the fashion designer and graphic designer, Frederico Batelli got his hands on a scrap of denim material, he didn't do the obvious thing and throw it away, he had a pretty good idea instead. Since then, a cool collection of denim bow ties for men and women has developed from the idea. The collection presents models in 20 different washes and copies. Annalisa Petroni, a textile expert, also eventually came on board. Highlights are the 'used' appearance, among other things. All products are handmade exclusively in Florence. Sales and distribution is in development at the moment and targeted at Italy, Germany, Holland and Spain. The bow ties cost between 35 and 45 euros, depending on the wash and processing. ContaCt: Untitled – Since Now, Federico Batelli, 50019 Florence/Italy, T 0039.055.4493134, www.untitledsincenow.com

out now! www.ucm-verlag.at/app

spring/Summer 2013

Check it out! The x-ray team went scouting for trends and struck it rich. We've put together a summary of the most beautiful finds for the new spring/summer 2013 collection on the following pages.

Text Julia Lauber Photos Veit Ritterbecks, Marken

01 04

02 06 07

Bright colours '80s, you must be joking! Loud colours and neon set the tone for summer 2013. Whether its on shoelaces, sneakers and watches as accessories that give emphasis, on skinny jeans or a loose T-shirt as a vivid key piece – loud colours rock. Yellow jeans, an orange leather jacket, green boots? Oh yes. Here, pure colours are broken up – with batik shirts à la '70s or with denim washes.

01 –– Gsus, 02 –– Adidas Originals, 03 –– Converse, 04 –– Palladium, 05 –– Diesel, 06 –– Skunkfunk, 07 –– Fydelity

34 ––

Trends –– fashion

opiu

Gr alter

9), A

-196

83 s (18

ct of

chite

ar rican

r."

ou l o c te

vou a f y

m s i l fu

ur o l o C "

tion

xtrac

ne erma

17 15

08-09 –– Norrona, / 10 –– Mavi, 11 –– Topman, 12 –– Campus, 13 –– Antony Morato, 14 –– Lacoste, 15 –– Vanishing Elephant, 16 –– Nixon, 17 –– Kangaroos, 18 –– Diesel

–– 35

Move with Flowers

The coming summer will be flowery! Inspired by the scent of flowering meadows, delicate millefleur designs and magnificent flower prints are on everything that is wearable. The focus is on hot pants, slender skinny jeans, sexy bustiers and classic blouses alongside airy summer dresses and comfortable shoes. When it comes to motifs, they are sometimes playfully romantic, sometimes tropically loud. And for the ultimate summer carefree mood, also alternatively available as a hippy look.

floral 05

10 09

01 –– Fornarina, 02 –– Antony Morato, 03 –– Fornarina, 04 –– Drykorn, 05 –– Yerse, 06 –– Joe’s, 07 –– Yerse, 08 –– Timezone, 09 –– Timezone, 10 –– Hilfiger Denim

36 ––

Trends –– fashion

03 01

07 08

rne d

Pretty Patterns A weakness for flamingos? Or maybe a fan of Marilyn? The coming summer offers THE opportunity to wear your preferences on your sleeve, very strikingly and stylishly. Whether on shorts, shirts or sneakers, there is no piece of clothing or accessory that can't be used as a canvas in 2013. This is how the legendary Hawaian shirt is experiencing its revival and, in future, it will be combined less often with jeans as with equally flamboyantlypatterned trousers and accessories.

atte

01 –– Andy Warhol by Pepe Jeans, 02 –– Pepe Jeans, 03 –– New Era, 04 –– Paradise Found, 05 –– Street Style, 06 –– Mavi, 07 –– Raphael Hauber, 08 –– J’ai mal à la tête, 09 –– Firetrap, 10 –– Pointer, 11 –– Adidas, 12 –– Converse

–– 37

„Jeans are the common denominator between men and women, old and young.“ Donna Karan

all over 01

01 –– Converse, 02 –– Diesel, 03 –– ADenim, 04 –– Kuyichi, 05 –– Gsus, 06 –– Firetrap

38 ––

Trends –– fashion

08 09

15 12

Denim meets denim The days when a complete denim look was a no go are now over. Denim may once again be teamed up with denim. Here, the diversity of washes and cuts offers enough room for manoeuvre for an individual interpretation. Sometimes rough and dirty or raw, sometimes stone-washed or metal-coated – the new diversity of shape can now be seen in pants in XXL, Skinny, Tapered Fit or Bootcut.

07 –– K.O.I, 08 –– Mavi, 09 –– Campus, 10 –– Mavi, 11 –– 7 For All Mankind, 12 –– Hilfiger Denim, 13 –– Antony Morato, 14 –– Mustang, 15 –– Sparks, 16 –– G-Star, 17 –– Freeman T. Porter

–– 39

sweet like candy Inspired by South Beach's art deco quarter, delicate pastel tones are finding their way into fashion. As a counterpart to the flashy colour invasion in the summer, powdery nuances are popular. Here they appear as a monochrome-styled and solid-coloured all-over look, sometimes as a playful combination with batik effects. The colour palette with delicate yellow, blue and rosé tones resembles a pastel rainbow spectrum.

01 –– Joe’s, 02 –– Hummel, 03 –– Pointer, 04 –– Drykorn, 05 –– Mavi, 06 –– Gsus, 07 –– Lunettes Selection

40 ––

Trends –– fashion

08 –– Zebratod, 09 –– Campus, 10 –– Fornarina, 11 –– Bench, 12 –– Sparks, 13 –– ADenim, 14 –– Firetrap, 15 –– Drykorn

–– 41

Denim meets Black

keep on rocking Inspired by film legend James Dean's style, denim and black have a hot liaison in summer 2013. Whether it's dyed black or combined with black – denim loves it cool, rough and rocking. Here, strong washes in the bleached-out, used look are just as significant as materials dyed deep black and rough raw denim. Casual jeans and tight dresses are combined in a stylish way with flashy leather jackets and casual cotton shirts.

06 08

01 –– The Local Firm, 02 –– ADenim, 03 –– Guess, 04-05 –– Diesel, 06 –– Diesel Black Gold, 07 –– Nixon, 08 –– Palladium

42 ––

Trends –– fashion

03 06

L ight denim take it easy Light, flowing denim materials, Tencel – summer is getting soft! Loosely cut and armed with loving details, light denim stays by itself and is only combined – if at all – with soft cotton or silk materials from the same colour family. Washes, delicate prints and embroidery emphasise the light character of the materials. Wide cuts and details like elastic bands promote pleasant comfort for wearing in hot temperatures. 07

01 –– Yerse, 02 –– Andy Warhol by Pepe Jeans, 03 –– Firetrap, 04-05 –– Diesel, 06 –– Patrick Mohr, 07 –– Antony Morato, 08 –– Campus, 09 –– Hilfiger Denim, 10 –– Wrangler, 11 –– Mavi, 12 –– Mustang

–– 43

Back to School The college style is back. The old school classics show up in equally bright and contrast-rich designs. Interpreted in a completely retro way with flamboyant embroidery and borrowing from football shirts, baseball jackets, caps and T-shirts are classically teamed up with denim and chinos in the coming season. Those who like to dress preppy rather than hip hop, find their outfits for the summer in sporty and elegant polo shirts, cardigans and chinos.

01 –– Wrangler, 02 –– Pepe Jeans, 03 –– Lacoste, 04 –– Campus, 05 –– Ebbets Field, 06 –– New Era, 07 –– Diesel, 08 –– Monsieur Lacenaire

44 ––

Trends –– fashion

College boy & Girl

09 –– Replay, 10 –– Merc, 11 –– Kangaroos, 12 –– ADenim, 13 –– Hummel, 14 –– Ebbets Field, 15 –– Yerse, 16 –– Raphael Hauber

–– 45

back to the Future Photos Federica Roncaldier represented by tobiasbosch.com Assistance Alexander Wohlrab Hair & Make-Up Memo Schmage Styling Friederike von Bock Assistance Christina van Zon Models Josina und Caroline/www.seedsmodels.de Production Friederike von Bock/www.sowow.de

46 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

back to the future –– Fashion

Stripes Left Dress –– Starstyling Skirt –– American Apparel Headband –– Die Zwillingsnadeln Shoes –– Lise Lindvig Right Sweater –– Adidas Originals via frontlineshop.de Collar –– Klara Kadlecova Skirt –– American Apparel Socks –– Stylists Own Shoes –– Sydney Brown

–– 47

Hangman Top Overall –– G-Star Bra –– Stylists Own Hip-Bag –– Cleptomanicx Wedges –– Jeffrey Campbell Watch –– Nixon via frontlineshop.de Bottom Necklace –– Klara Kadlecova Blouse –– Ethel Vaughn Skirt –– American Apparel Sneakers –– New Balance

48 ––

back to the future –– Fashion

Climbing Cape –– Starstyling Bagpack –– Monki Shirt –– Weekday Trousers, Boots –– Adidas Originals

–– 49

Cones Left Sweater –– Baum und Pferdgarten Trousers –– Henrik Vibskov Sneakers –– Adidas Originals Hat –– New Era Necklace –– Stella & Dot Bracelet –– Sabrina Dehoff Bag –– Stylists Own Right Cape –– Diesel Skirt –– Karlotta Wilde Shirt –– LookyLooky Shoes –– Jeffrey Campbell via frontlineshop.de Cap –– Stylists Own Glasses –– Mykita

50 ––

back to the future –– Fashion

Steps Collar –– Starstyling Jacket –– Muubaa Top –– American Apparel Trousers –– Drykorn Shoes –– Buffalo via frontlineshop.de

–– 51

Strangers Left Dress –– Drykorn Trousers –– Hui-Hui Shoes –– Jeffrey Campbell Hat –– Die Zwillingsnadeln Necklace –– Stella & Dot Collar –– Klara Kadlecova Right Dress –– f.rau Trousers –– Karlotta Wilde Shoes –– Friis & Company via frontlineshop.de Hat –– Die Zwillingsnadeln Wings –– Monki

112 –– 52 ––

back to the future –– Fashion

Hiding Cap –– Cleptomanicx Trousers –– Baum und Pferdgarten Sweater –– Starstyling Watches –– Casio via frontlineshop.de Shoes –– Monki

–– –– 113 53

he magical mystery tour is waiting to take you away, Waiting to take you away. The magical mystery tour is hoping to take you away, Hoping to take you away. The magical mystery tour is dying to take you away, Dying to take you away, take you away.

114 –– 54 ––

back to the future –– Fashion

Tube-Skating Tanktop –– LookyLooky Shorts –– Hui-Hui Cap –– Adidas Originals Shoes –– Converse Chucks via frontlineshop.de Belt –– Cleptomanicx

–– –– 115 55

Drive Style

Metal flakes, customising, raw denim and root beer. x-ray shows drivestyle from Los Angeles, London and Hamburg – Muahahaha...

56 ––

Drivestyle_los angeles –– gotta go to

Los angeles Rod 'n' Roll & Rock 'n' Bob

Los Angeles, the city of the lowrider and rods and choppers. The city has been the cradle of customising since the '40s. There is nothing that can't be chopped, channelled, tuned or flaked. If you're looking for the origins of customising, start here... Text & Photos Jo Fischer, www.jofischer.com

Burger, Beer and Hot Rods

Just a few minutes before we land in Los Angeles. I've been dragged from my sleep by a garbled voice, look out of the window and see the sea of small houses and long streets below. My body is weak. Plagued by lack of sleep and the bad food from the plane, I lift up my suitcase and proceed to immigration. The official etches his stamp into my passport: from now on, three months of Rock'n'Roll.

V8 with a Balmy Breeze Just as I'm about to light up my first cigarette in front of the terminal building, my contact man comes around the corner with his pickup truck. Little Daddy Roth is the son of Big Daddy Roth who was largely instrumental in the evolution of the American car culture in the late '50s. From my point of view, a punk from the customising scene. He grabbed attention with his V8-motorised glass domes on four wheels, crazy design in metal flake design. The Rat Fink, a green rat, a garish handlebar on a hot rod in plastic, is also one of his. Anybody who designs something like that is a picket short of a fence. But, since I've also got one or two missing, I feel right at home straight away. It is already evening and we happily drive along the freeway towards City of Bell listening to music by Del Mar, some band friends of Little Daddy. The sunset, the freeway signs and the background noises that is drivestyle. You couldn't really have something like this on German roads as several important basic elements are missing there.

The balmy Californian breezes, the lightness and the merciless over-motoring.

Toast in Root Beer, Muahahaha

to Masterson's Customs in Lynwood near South Gate, an area where it's best not to go around with professional camera equipment after twilight. The boys from Masterson have

City of Bell. Little Daddy lives here, an area heavily characterised by Mexican inhabitants. It is late and I have about two delightful hours sleep on the couch in the living room, it's still midday for me.. The next morning I'm woken by "Roth Revenge" by Del Mar and a loud "Muahahaha" from Little Daddy. He serves me a large plate of steak, toast with lashings of butter on it and root beer. With a brick in my belly, we drive

01 Bill Hines The Leadslinger – Once he started working for George Barris and Barris Kustoms in 1958, he became an icon in the L.A. customising scene. 02 Dan Collins is a tattoo artist, hot rod- and bike-builder from Los Angeles. This little beauty stands in front of his "Old Gold Garage" in Ventura. 03 Hollywood Hot Rods. 04 Outlaw-Biker and Hot-Rodder Mike Parti in his workshop in Los Angeles. Parti had already pimped Steve McQueen's motorbikes and is a former member of the Galloping Goose MC.

–– 57

Barris has moved downtown. The Masterson boys deliberately chose the place. It's easier bolting stuff together on a site with a soul. In any case, you can actually feel the spirit of the olden days.

The Leadslinger

We dig deeper into the American history of customising and in the late afternoon we bump into Bill Hines, the leadslinger, a living legend. Both the workshop and his house lie in an area that looks like a junk yard. The first customiser, now nearly 90, once chopped a new Ford Shoebox in the mid '50s. At the time, it was a scandal in the conservative car world of America. He lights up a cigar, I shoot a portrait photo and thank him.

Thursday Night Thunder a custom shop here. The finest custom cars leave the yard, usually flaked, channelled and chopped. Barris customs designed the car for Bat Man during the '60s, the bespoke rod for the Adams Family, too. Nowadays,

The first two days in L.A. go much too fast. My jet-lag has almost completely disappeared and on the spur of the moment we decide to take a trip to the Thursday Night Thunder in Irwindale, one of the oldest dragstrips in the US. Racing enthusiasts meet up there every

"The best of it are the surroundings, the landscape, the Rock 'n' Roll and the blend of different cultures. It's this combination that makes the drivestyle, not just the car." Jo Fischer 58 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Thursday night to break the 1/4 mile in private cars. Partly in professional dragsters, but also in diesel pick-ups whose sooty starts at full throttle are reminiscent of the Queen Mary putting out to sea in the Port of Hamburg. A smooth finish to the evening with unusual vehicles, crazy people and a lot of noise. This kind of drivestyle, unfortunately, couldn't be imported onto German soil either.

Hot Rods, Tattoos & Rock'n'Roll We visit Dan Collins, owner of the Old Gold Garage in his hall in Ventura; he is musician, tattoo artist and customiser. If he can play music and put colour underneath the skin in the same way as he can build cars, then this bloke certainly has a thing or two up his sleeve. A green Ford pick-up truck, massively modified. He put together a rod for his wife in white and purple flakes just by-the-by in a matter of two weeks using leftovers and spare parts. We're off the next morning to Huntington Beach, to Donuts Derelicts. What a cruise along the coast south of L.A. Arrival just before six, sunrise. When the morning sun hits the asphalt and the first lowriders burble slowly down the road, then it's high time to turn up at a small donut shop. Every Saturday, lots of chrome junkies meet up there, with a few Rat Rodders and all sorts of antique wheels. Funnily enough, everybody leaves the car park two hours later.

Drivestyle_los angeles –– gotta go to

01 Dan Collins in front of his "Old Gold Garage" in Ventura. 02 Marc Ventura, a legend in the Hot Rod scene in Los Angeles. 03 Lil Daddy Roth is owner of Roth Flake from Los Angeles and a specialist when it comes to a sleek metal flake style. 04 Drivestyle in Hollywood. 05 Highnoon Drive at Huntington Beach. 06 Dan Collins Ford – a little beauty from his garage in Ventura.

web Addresses

Dan Collins, Old Gold Garage. www.oldgoldgarageco.blogspot.de Masterson Kustom, Little Daddy Roth, Customs, really crazy stuff. www.mastersonkustoms.com If you fancy having your wheels painted properly. www.rothoriginals.com Here you can get flakes in different sizes. www.rothmetalflake.com Greenspans, oldest original clothes shop in L.A. everything in stock from head to toe. www.greenspans.com Fancy busting your tachometer, take a trip to Irwindale. www.irwindalespeedway.com By far, the best donuts, the wateriest coffee and the earliest car meeting site in the Californian hemisphere. www.donutderelicts.com Hollywood Hot Rods, major customised build-ups, modifications, restorations. www.hollywoodhotrods.com

"Drivestyle in L.A. couldn't really be imported onto German roads as several important basic elements are missing here. The balmy Californian breezes, the lightness and the merciless over-motoring." Jo Fischer Finest Threads Well, if you're already awake, then you definitely shouldn't miss out on seeing what's probably the oldest vintage store in L.A., Greenspans, opened in 1928. Everything's new-old-stock, no moth-ball reeking used merchandise. Finest threads from the late '30s for the style-conscious hepcats, trendy walking sticks, hats, sunglasses, gloves, denim. If you've not had enough after visiting Greenspans, then take your credit card along to Hollywood Hotrods. Only the finest quality is used here. What's the use of the finest threads without matching wheels. Mooneyes USA in Santa

Fee is another one you mustn't miss. There, you'll find everything around sheet metal on two and four wheels. Probably the largest product range of everything a customiser's heart could long for. From classic chain steering wheels, cross-ply tyres for the classic look up to metal flake handles for mopeds. Sedately blubber along the road or roar along using about 8 mpg. Either way, it's a great feeling. But the best of it are the surroundings, the landscape, the Rock'n'Roll and the blend of different cultures which seem to be hiding around every corner. It's this combination that makes the drivestyle, not just the car. x

–– 59

London Glam Rock Meets Selvedge Edges The old feud between Mods and Rockers has long been forgotten in London, street fights like in the '60 don't take place any more. Nowadays, they're drinking a cup of tea or a beer together and discuss the technical subtleties of their Hot Rods or scooters. Text & Photos Fritz Heinrich

60 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

n terms of motor culture, London is a treasure trove. A colourful cosmos of people, fashion and cars; stores with their own language code and faces that show their life's history. This bestows a certain charm on the British metropolis. My story begins with a meeting with Guy West. He runs the shoe manufacturers Jeffery-West - incredibly elegant, extrovert men's shoes. Guy drives an old, snobby Bristol - much more exclusive than any Rolls or Bentley. The car is completely kitted out inside with snakeskin. The driver is just as eccentric as his car, he can-

Drivestyle_london –– gotta go to

"In terms of motor culture, London is a colourful cosmos of people, fashion and cars." Rockers Basics

cels his interview at short notice as he is on a business trip. So, I meet up with John and Simon. Both of them drive a Brough Superior, the world's first series motorbike from 1924 that even back then could do 100 miles per hour. We all go to a party in a workshop for old Aston Martins. I would estimate half of the 30 cars there were worth at least half a million pounds each. But, it's a Glam-Rock party, men in bell-bottoms and open shirts, women in bright minis and platform boots. When it comes to tastelessness, the English know no boundaries and no pain.

The next visit is to Hiroyuko from the blog "Mode by Rockers" in the Lewis-Leathers store. Lewis particularly represents extremely high-end motorcycle and bomber jackets, mainly made from cowhide or horse leather. They are old patterns or interpretations, high-quality workmanship, made in England. Very practical, extremely cool. Aero Leathers from Scotland also work according to the same model and enjoy an excellent reputation for classic motorcycle clothing. These can be found in London, for example, in John Simons shop close to Baker Street. If you are looking for an ordinary pair of jeans made from Japanese Denim; 14oz with selvedge edge, then you'll be sent to Albam, an English manufacturer. Here, a pair of jeans will cost a good 85 pounds. Looking for the other more usual Drive-Style suspects, my mate Steve drives me in his Ford pick-up to American Classics, here you can find Lee and Levis Big-E as well as Studio D'Artisan and Sugar Cane – Rockers Basics.

Bespoke Style Paul Weller, considered the father of the first Mod revival, is sometimes described as a Saville Row Socialist. It's to be presumed that his tailored suits never or rarely came from

01 Streetstyle in Shoreditch: Freddy with his home-made Fixie. 02 T-Rex Party in the Aston Martin workshop. 03 John with the famous Brough Superior Cunliffe Racer Machine.

Events

www.acecafelondon.de www.baritaliasoho.co.uk www.vintagefestival.co.uk www.goodwood.co.uk/motorsport www.hemsbyrocknroll.co.uk www.hotrodhayride.com www.rockabillyrave.co.uk

–– 61

"The old feud between Mods and Rockers has long been forgotten, street fights like in the '60s don't take place anymore." Fritz Heinrichs

Stores

www.lewisleathers.com www.johnsimons.co.uk www.jeffery-west.co.uk www.peckhamrye.com www.albamclothing.com www.crazymancrazylondon.co.uk www.heritageresearch.co.uk www.americanclassicslondon.com www.aeroleatherclothing.com

62 ––

the street that is considered a place of pilgrimage for fine, hand-made men's suits, where the "Bespoke Tailor" carries out his craft. (Bespoke means details between customer and tailor are spoken about.) But the Mods wanted more fashionable cuts and extravagant details than the old-established tailors wanted to provide. Carnaby Street was well known in the gay scene for its small shops offering unusually colourful or stylish clothing, often imported from Italy and made-tomeasure locally. Carnaby Street is still living from the glory of the '60s today and has

become one of the most eminent shopping miles in London. Manufacturers such as American Apparel and H&M up to designer stores by Hugo Boss, Hilfiger Denim, Lacoste, Barbour or sportswear stores such as The North Face, Puma, Adidas are now all to be found here. There are, however, still a few of those small, fine outfitters. One such example is Peckham Rye, in Newburgh Street on the corner of Carnaby Street which has been around since the '60s and also, as it happens, a store where Paul Weller shops. It is one of the oldest Mod tailors, specialising in ties. The business name comes from Cockney rhyming slang, a language code all of its own in the South London borough. Basic rule: never say what you really want to say, instead say it in a rhyme. So, Peckham-Rye - Tie. Other codes for fashion items include Baked Beans - Jeans, Tennis Racquet - Jacket or Whistle and Flute - Suit.

01 The Bar Italia in Soho is a regular meeting place for scooter drivers. 02 A classic: the Scooter Café. 03 Jaguar D-Type.

Drivestyle_london –– gotta go to

Vintage Meets Concept When you're on the lookout for vintage clothes, then the major markets such as Camden Market are naturally a pretty famous address, but nowadays, they are to be found in every tourist guide. So, you're better off moving along to Brick Lane in the relatively freshly-hyped hip quarter of Shoreditch. Here, in and around the old Truman Brewery, numerous Second-Hand stores can be found, mixed in with underground concept stores, contemporary art galleries and new menswear stores such as Number Six London or Goodhood. Boutiques. But there are also retro-stores offering garments in the old style and, sometimes, in the old tradition of hand-made clothing., I meet a fashionably dressed young man called Freddy in front of such a store, moving along in his light-blue suit and matching home-made "Fixie" (fixedgear bike). You can bump into such style merchants a lot in this part of town and it's a great place for people watching.

or a beer together and discuss the technical subtleties. The Mod and Scooter meetings are smaller. A popular spot is the Bar Italia in Soho, but there are also newer, sweeter places such as the Scooter Café in Waterloo. In Shoreditch, besides the advocates of the Fixie, Hot Rod and Rockabilly Wave with swing dance and coloured tattoos, you also see advocates of the Tweed Runs with classic bicycles dating from the '20s to the '60s. In keeping with their bikes, they wear elegant tweeds and regularly take part in the socalled Tweed Run events where authentic clothing is just as much important as the train wheel with no brakes from the appropriate decade. There are many events attempting to reproduce more than just an attitude to life but also the era, too. Music, the right vehicle and the right look also belong to the lifestyle - and not just a part of it. x

04 Glam Rock Party in an Austin Martin workshop, Aston Martin DB 6. 05 Off on a shopping tour in Sloane Square. 06 Steve with his Ford F-1 Pick-Up. 07 Drivestyle essentials.

Look and Marvel At Chelsea Bridge or Box Hill, the major motorcycle meeting places, you can really only see modern motorbikes on the whole. But the Ace Café is the place for classic vehicles. Here, Hot Rods and scooters can also be found. The old feud between Mods and Rockers has long been forgotten, there are no street fights like there used to be in the '60s. Nowadays, they drink a cup of tea 06

–– 63

hamburg the City of the Classics It is quite a paradox. There is Germany, or more precisely Europe, building the best cars for more than 125 years - but when the subject of motor culture is involved, then everything first goes quiet in the Germanic forest. Despite motorways and (Nürburg-)ring. But beyond the typically German virtue of building societies, Germany is traditionally rather weak with regard to individual passions. For example, Germany doesn't have a national racing sport like England, nor traditional roots such as the American Hot Rod culture. Text Ralf Becker, www.ralfbecker.com, www.chromjuwelen.com Photos Oliver Breitweiser 01

64 ––

Drivestyle_Hamburg –– gotta go to

01 02-04

n the process, Germany has a large part of the world's most valuable chrome jewels on its conscience and regularly sets new standards when it comes to issues of perfection, precision and maximum speed. So, there is a very great awareness of their own engineering abilities. Perhaps, the German Engineering seal of approval also turns out to be a burden for the land of poets and thinkers. Because the award, which is a highly prestigious award on an international scale,

"Hamburg has not only promoted a fine sub-culture but also ensures a confident 'live and let live' habitat." Ralf Becker, Chromjuwelen

Heliumcowboy Artspace Jörg Heikhaus, gallery owner with petrol in his blood and mediator between the worlds. Prototyp Automuseum What a treat in the Prototyp Automuseum: Polensky Monopoletta, own build with 500 cubic centimetres BMW motorcycle motors and a VW bucket car transmission. No museum standing piece, but a classic vehicle. Most of the exhibits in the Automuseum Prototyp are registered and are regularly moved.

leaves very little room for individual creativity and quirky improvisations in their value of systems which constantly strive for improvements and optimisation. But there is a city which has swum free of this: Hamburg. Owing to the presence of its harbour, the Hanseatic city has always made arrangements with all manner of colourful and international influences since time immemorial. This has not only promoted a fine sub-culture, but also ensured a confident "live and let live" habitat. On top of this, Hamburg has never needed to define itself using a hipster status, nor are Hamburgers in danger of being choked by old customs. And so it is in Hamburg that something completely out of character with the national image occurs: The driver of a luxury sports car meets the roller coaster brakeman from the muscle-car fraction over a cool pint and talk about - without prejudice - the best highways and byways. Because, Hamburg has a lot of those to offer, quite apart from well-known events such as the Hamburg Stadtpark Revival or the Hamburg Harley Days. Finding a culture like this in a country known for its structured and meticulous pigeon-hole mentality is a difficult thing and makes Hamburg with its extremely high quota of classics into something rather like an open-air museum for veteran cars. So, if you dare to venture amongst the people deemed as cold fishheads - here are a few tips.

Motor Culture par exellence If you really want to tackle the theme properly, then there's no getting around the car museum Automuseum Prototyp Hamburg (www. prototyp-hamburg.de). Both the curators, Oliver Schmidt and Thomas König, have taken on the task of collecting prototypes and racing cars from different eras, presenting them in their beautifully restored factory building in the Hafencity Hamburg. It is also well worth visiting the private museum, however, beside the unique exhibits. The entire manner of

–– 65

01 02-03

Oldtimer Tankstelle "In rust we trust." Low-lying rusty beetle car at the Oldtimer Tankstelle. Jules W Julia aka Jules Wenzel: Hamburg re-interpreted. Still on paper, soon beneath the skin - easy to appreciate that these are hot motives.

staging has a way of transmitting to all the senses what true automotive passion is. A few streets further on, at the historic large petrol station Brandshof, known as the "Oldtimer Tankstelle" (www.tankstelle-brandshof. de), you can have a more down-to-earth view on what moves the people of Hamburg. The petrol station building dates from 1953 and every weekend turns into a popular tourist attraction for the old car society. Here, the bread-and-butter classics from home pastures, heavy and over-trained big shots from America and all kinds of colourful two-wheelers meet up. The visit is like a trip back in time because Alex Piatscheck and Jann de Boer, the owners, have taken great care to ensure that everything is as authentic as it could possibly be. At this point, we heartily recommend: Kalter Hund (a type of cake) and a cup of filter coffee. For those who prefer it on a little larger scale, we can recommend the harbour station (www.hafenbahnhof.com). For years, the Sunday MotoClub has been the first port of call for everybody with a penchant for overlarge engines and other weapons for big game hunting. While the parking situation can be adventurous at the best of times, it doesn't seem to have a lasting effect on the guests or the local race management. Come 02

early (2.00 p.m.) to get the best spot - at least, if you want to show off your own car.

Motor Culture Shopping

If you're on the lookout for Steve McQueen memorial jackets or flamed T-shirts, you're bound sure to find them in Hamburg somewhere. But for everything else, there really is only one address: Rider's Room (www.ridersroom. de). For years, Sven Eden has been making sure that the two-wheeler and car scene in Hamburg have been wearing the right foot-

wear, and been decking themselves with the right trousers and jackets guaranteed to stand up to the most rugged demands. The most impressive element of this, however, is not the overwhelming choice of Red Wing boots or the infinite selection of denim. What impresses most about Rider's Room is that Sven Eden has the right background knowledge on every product at his finger tips. That's what you call an advisory service. Now stylishly dressed, a contrasting programme is recommended. For example, a

"Hamburg has never needed to define itself using a hipster status." Ralf Becker, Chromjuwelen

66 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Drivestyle_Hamburg –– gotta go to

Links

trip into the art world. It hasn't gone unnoticed in the art scene either that Hamburg is moving in motor culture terms. One thing is for sure, it's always the same name turning up: Jörg Heikhaus. Jörg Heikhaus, or rather his gallery Heliumcowboy Artspace (www.heliumcowboy.com/), has become something of a gateway between the worlds over time. It's possibly because Jörg Heikhaus also has a pretty hefty amount of petrol in his blood himself, or simply because he hits the right note when it comes to bringing the subject of art closer to an octane-fuelled client. So it was also Jörg Heikhaus who introduced Jules Wenzel (www.juleswenzel.de). Jules is actually called Julia and originally comes from classic communication design. That was, however, before she completely decided to pursue her passion for indelible ink. Today, Julia aka Jules Tattoos works her art at Zsolt (www.artistocrat.de) and there's certainly one thing she can't complain about: an empty order book. But everybody who has seen Julia's style immediately knows why: Julia's stroke is one-of-a-kind. Another name also worth bearing in mind is

that of David Einsiedler. Einsiedler is closely rooted with the subject of motor culture, he's sufficiently demonstrated this with his Vespa and Lambretta photo essay "Beziehungskisten - Schalt- und Blechroller". David has now moved into the vintage and industrial design sector and his shop PLY unestablished furniture (www.ply.de) is one of the top addresses to look out for when it comes to industrial furniture, lights and decorative items from 1920 to 1960.

www.motorevival.de Hamburger Stadtpark-Revival www.hamburgharleydays.de Hamburg Harley Days www.prototyp-hamburg.de Automuseum Prototyp www.tankstelle-brandshof.de Oldtimer Tankstelle www.hafenbahnhof.com Hafenbahnhof www.ridersroom.de Rider’s Room www.heliumcowboy.com Heliumcowboy Artspace www.juleswenzel.de Jules www.artistocrat.de Zsolt www.20flightrock.de 20 Flight Rock www.queencalavera.de Queen- & King Calavera

04-06 07-08

Oldtimer Tankstelle Just an average Sunday at the Oldtimer Tankstelle for everybody who has put their high-octane coming-out behind them. Rider's Room No quick offer just because it's just hip. Much more a long-standing and authentic upholding of tradition. Sven Eden, Rider's Room.

Going Out Hamburg certainly needs no explanation when it comes to night-life because the Reeperbahn is a term known all over the world. Nevertheless, there are two address that you should remember: 20 Flight Rock (www.20flightrock.de) and King- und Queen Calavera (www.queencalavera.de). Both shops are a sure-fire guarantee for an entertaining evening at full throttle. Assuming, of course, that you appreciate the world of burlesque, rockabilly and punk rock. But just to calm you down, there are also a great number of addresses that serve electronic tastes. x

–– 67

Open: Text Isabel Faiss, Ina Köhler, Kay Alexander Plonka Photos Labels

Sessùn Berlin Nonchalance

A touch of flair from the South of France wafts through the German capital. At the end of May, not far from the Hackescher Markt on the Alten Schönhauser Strasse in Berlin-Mitte, the first Sessùn flagship store outside of France opened. The interior design is distinguished by a blend of modern simplicity with accents taken from bygone ages. The feminine collection from sunny Marseille is presented in a classic, refined capital-old-living room atmosphere and is divided into a rear and front room over a total of 52 square metres. The shop fitting and stylish interior design using different types of wood was conducted by the German-French architect Caspar Muchalek who has already added his characteristic look to the Sessùn shop in the Rue de Charonne in Paris. The shop is to be run by the Agentur Philippe Nowotny who has been a long-standing distribution partner in Germany and Austria, supervising 80 selected customers and the online shop for Sessùn. ContaCt: Sessùn, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 44, 10119 Berlin-Mitte/Germany, www.sessun.com

68 ––

Esprit Store Düsseldorf Redesign of the Store

Now, with the re-opening of its Düsseldorf Store in the Schadowstrasse, Esprit has realised its third store in the new "Lighthouse" design concept. In so doing, the company is now focusing more towards the direction of a concept store. After Antwerp (Meir) and Cologne (Ehrenstrasse), it was Düsseldorf's turn in June. 1,700 square metres were redesigned in the style of a Californian town house: A "living room atmosphere" is conveyed through the lightcoloured walls, wooden surfaces, partitions, a wall with greenery and many individual details and accessories. The Esprit architects partnered with the New York offices of Anderson Architects for the concept which is to implemented slightly differently in each city. All the own Esprit stores are to be globally remodelled along the lighthouse lines by 2015, requiring a total investment of 280 million euros. In addition, the wholesale partner stores will also be given a new guise in the future. Esprit also collaborated with I: Collect AG to present a new idea on recycling: Old clothes and shoes can be brought to the store to be disposed of - a discount of 10 % off the next purchase will be offered by way of thanks. ContaCt: Esprit Store, Schadowstrasse 17–21, 40212 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.esprit.com

retail news –– in store

Freeman T. Porter Prime Location – Twice Over

For Freeman T. Porter, the French market plays a key role. Last May, the company emphasised this high status announcing they wanted to open up two further stores in Paris and Lille. These two new stores will be the first in France for four years. The 200-square-metre store in the Parisian Rue de Marseille will be opening its doors on the 6th September. The address has been deliberately selected as it sets the Freeman T. Porter brand in direct contrast to the neighbouring brand stores of APC, Element, Wesc or the Vejy concept store, for example. The new store in Lille will follow on the 11th June 2013 with 170 square metres in the Rue des Chats Bossus. ContaCt: Freeman T. Porter Store Paris, 8 rue de Marseille, 75010 Paris/France, Freeman T. Porter Store Lille, 11 rue des Chats Bossus, 59000 Lille/France, www.freemantporter.com

Denham Womens Store Ladies first

For a long time, Denham was considered a man's world, now it's the women's turn. At the end of May, an own 85-square-metre large Dependance opened in Amsterdam in the heart of the creative quarters of De Negen Straatjes around the corner of the Dam. There are also other products on offer in addition to the womenswear. Cooperations with the Dutch jewellery designer Eva Schreuder and the bag label Bagism as well as art exhibitions with a gallery complement the portfolio. The interior is a proven blend of vintage furniture, wood elements and a clean look. The picturesque store front with flower boxes provides a fitting entrance, white walls and ceiling contrast with the brushed, herringbone patterned parquet flooring. At the rear of the store, the eye is drawn to an idyllic courtyard and towards the blue-covered sofa in boudoir style. In March 2012, Denman also launched a concept store in a Japanese shopping centre in Osaka and now has a total of five own stores across the world, namely in Amsterdam, Tokyo, Osaka and London. ContaCt: Denham Womens Store, Runstraat 17, 1016 GJ Amsterdam/The Netherlands, www.denhamthejeanmaker.com

–– 69

All styles are pieces from the new, fair-produced Ethikette collection.

70 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

elternhaus, hamburg –– in store

"We aren't fashion designers" Portable means of reviving contradictions – the owner, Stefanie Mayr explains her store concept. The Elternhaus in Hamburg's Karolinenstrasse transports attitudes through text on textiles. Her showroom is the street. Text Nicolette Scharpenberg Photos Elternhaus, Nicolette Scharpenberg

lternhaus was originally intended to be an artist's agency. It was founded in 1997 under the name Mägde und Knechte. The retail space in the Karolinenviertel was to provide a creative platform for presenting works. However, hardly anything sold except for the in-house logo T-shirts. As a result, since 2001, the concept has headed towards hand-printed works of art from a selection of creative minds who transport their text by means of chest, bag, jacket, candle, toilet bag or cushion. Everything is produced in-house in the classic tailor's workshop at the back of the house. "Our themes are about giving people something to think about and also a form of communication", says Mayr. "At the end of the day, it's all about communication. We simply package our themes in a nice cover."

Opium for the People Every collection runs under an umbrella theme. "Our current theme is time - it's about time", says Mayr. "People dash through their life, nobody has any time any more. We get our experience second-hand from the internet, get sick from stress, don't see our friends any more. We fit in. Always faster, better, more. We devote ourselves to deceleration with products such as our Burn-Out Candle, "Eine Tasse Zeit" (A cup of time) tea, T-shirts, pullovers or cushions with logos on which translated mean something like "It's about time", "time without pressure", "Work less do More."

Experimental Station for Sustainability What first started off with the credo "We only do art and it has nothing to do with fashion", nowadays tends more towards products that you would describe as fashion. "I just have a weakness for clothes. However, I think it's impor-

tant that things are produced in a way that is ethically acceptable and not mass-produced", says Mayr. So, beside the printed basics, a few seasons ago an own cut-and-sewn collection was created, the Elternhaus Ethikette, consisting of hoodies, pullovers, dresses, jackets, jeans and chinos without any logos. All products were sourced from fair trade and are partially made from organic materials. "In the beginning, we recycled old stuff, such as old army jackets. We bought them and redid the tailoring. We still offer things like that today. There are also products that we completely produce ourselves such as jackets, rubber stamps, clothes, text markers, caps, cushions, dresses, sticky tape, T-shirts, bags, books", says Mayr. One of the current highlights is a shiny, velvet blouson with Asian floral motive or a clay hand grenade filled with flower seeds. When thrown in the garden or in a park, the clay dissolves and produces flowers in the green space. x

"It is about reflecting everything real and unreal, everything possible and impossible - imperfect, pure and to the point." Stefanie Mayr, Elternhaus

Elternhaus

Marktstrasse 29 20357 Hamburg/Germany T 0049.40.4308830 www.elternhaus.com www.elternhaus-blog.blogspot.com Opening: 1997 Owner: Stefanie Mayr Retail space: 60 sqm Staff: 2-3 Labels: Elternhaus Basic, Elternhaus Ethikette

Elternhaus has been producing its own collection Elternhaus Ethikette for several seasons. All products were sourced from fair trade and are partially made from organic materials.

–– 71

The Legacy of a Generation Like their whole generation, the trio behind the sneaker store Early in München grew up always having the right sneakers on their feet. Now, they are passing on this lifestyle to those who are just taking their first steps. Text Isabel Faiss Photos Frieder Schneider, Early

e mainly focus on the classic brands and their old-school models. It often happens that parents find sneakers for their little children in our store that they themselves wore in their youth," says Maja Feldrappe, who, along with her brother Daniel Feldrappe and their friend Mark Achmüller, opened the first sneaker store for babies in Munich in September 2011. Sneakers not Diapers is the small boutique's motto, which is located on Westenriederstrasse right on the main shopping streets around Munich's Marienplatz. The Early trio wanted to occupy a niche with this concept, which has already featured strongly in the industry for a long time but was more in the background. Despite prominent attempts on behalf of the big trade fairs to finally set up an appropriate platform for kidswear failing regularly – which up until now has restricted buying for Early to showroom dates and close cooperation with agencies like Säck & Nolde–, Maja Feldrappe sees enormous potential in children's sneakers. Shoes in small sizes for women (up to size 36) and for men (up to size 42) are being added to the collection.

of classic wall bars and recently a few discarded ballet barres were also added. Exercise balls, boxes and a springbok – you can almost hear the familiar squeaking of rubber soles on the hall floor. Mark Achmüller joined the team as a creative thinker, provider of inspiration, and skilled retailer, whose artwork decorates the store entrance. As a professional skateboarder, he understands, above all, the functional requirements of a well-made sneaker. At first, Maja Feldrappe underestimated how big a role this aspect would play among real hard-liners and sneaker-fans in the selection of a shoe for their children. For her second round of orders, she placed more importance on the needs and requirements of children for her footwear, because style isn't everything, and hasn't been for a long time in this sector. The store offers a great world of lifestyle for the little ones – and always offers a way for their parents to experience a flashback of their youth. x

Early – Sneakers not Diapers

Learning from the Greats The qualified designer, Maja Feldrappe, has many years of experience in the sneaker trade, most recently in the sneaker store Kickz Monacco, from which she gained the necessary know how and contacts for buying. Her brother Daniel, a skilled carpenter, carried out the interior decoration of the store. Here too, associations and memories of the parents' generation from their own childhood are in the foreground. The store's interior is decorated like a gym, using old-school props. The seat cushions are made from the typical, blue gym mats, the shelving is made

72 ––

01-04 05

Early, the first sneaker store for babies and children in Munich, was opened in September 2011. The store's interior is decorated like a gym, using old-school props. Gym mats are used as seat cushions, classic wall bars as shelving, and discarded ballet barres as clothes racks. The trio behind the Early store: Maja Feldrappe (middle), her brother Daniel Feldrappe (right) and pro-skater Mark Achmüller (left).

Westenriederstrasse 18, 80331 Munich/Germany T 0049.89.23547806, www.early-sneakers.com Opening: September 2011 Owners: Maja, Daniel und Ludwig Feldrappe Retail space: 60 sqm Shoes: Adidas, Aigle, Alife, Asics, Beck, Clarks, Converse, Hip, Keds, Minnetoka, Moonboots, New Balance, New World, Nike, Onitsuka Tiger, Puma, Robeez, Saucony, Superga, Timberland, Vans Fashion: Adidas, Converse, Nike, Vans Accessories/Miscellaneous: Bergal & Solitaire, Converse, Coloud, Fjäll Räven, Mr. Lacy, Nike, Paula, Puma, Sneaker Freaker, Stüssy, Uglydoll, Vans

early, Munich –– in store

02 03

–– 73

Riders room

Thadenstraße 4 22767 Hamburg/Germany www.ridersroom.de Opening: August 1995 Staff: 1 Retail space: 88 qm Labels: Aeroleathers, Aigle, Big E, Blundstone, Carhartt Workwear, Davida Helmets, Dickies Workwear, Eat Dust Clothing, Edwin, Filson Luggage and Garments, Fred Perry, Lee, Levi's, Pendelton Shirts, Pike Brothers, Red Wing Shoes, Skorpion Helmets, Stetson Hats and Caps, Vanson Leathers, Wolverine 1000 mile boots

fficially, the Riders Room has only been in existence since 1995. Unofficially, its history began much earlier: Back when Sven Eden was in the garage of a friend of his father's and stumbled across an old Triumph. "I fell in love with the machine right away and, of course, also wanted to look cool on it. It was a key moment, one that turned fashion and bikes into my hobby." And it has brought him to the point where he stands today - in a bikers' style paradise.

Learning by Doing

01-04 05

From Red Wing boots to Carhartt workwear – the Riders Room only gives house room to true authentics, primarily from America. Besides clothing, the Riders Room stocks everything a Rider's heart desires – from gloves to helmets.

The Story of the Pearl Diver The Riders Room in Hamburg has a hard door: there's no room for "Wannabe Originals". There are only True Authentics here. Text & Photos Nicolette Scharpenberg

74 ––

On one of his road trips, he accidentally discovered a store in Munich that served as a role model in terms of style. "This store was a universe for bikers, exclusively dealing in original US workwear brands, helmets and other gadgets. I was fascinated straight off, back then, I only knew about things like that from the US", he says. And so, the idea for his own store was born. "In the beginning, I had no idea about the fashion business, everything was a matter of learning-by-doing", says the Hamburger. First port of call was Interjeans in Cologne, where he was able to make his first contacts with classic jeans labels. He started off in a small, badly-lit shop in Thadenstrasse at St. Pauli. Things moved rather slowly to start off with. "Customers often thought that the shop was closed down because it was so dark inside", he says. "So that I could cover my fixed costs, I regularly used to sell stuff at motorcycle meetings and roadster events. This meant that I could gradually build-up a small pool of regular clients." The retail area was doubled following a total

riders room, hamburg –– in store

"I don't think much of brands that suddenly try to jump onto the authentic bandwagon just because it's become a trend." Sven Eden, Riders Room renovation of the building in 2010. Today, even the lighting lends an appropriate scene for the leather jackets, raw denims, flannel shirts, workwear by Carhartt or Dickies and, especially, the ten-square-metre wall with Red Wing boots. It is the largest collection of Red Wing boots in North Germany. "I was their first retailer in Germany at the time. As far as I'm concerned, they're the only honest shoes and the older I get, the more beautiful they are", he says warmly. Nowadays, the entire motor scene in Hamburg are regular guests, but in addition there are also non-bikers who cherish a passion for honest raw denim, a good checked shirt, original American M65 field jackets or a good pair of boots.

True Authentics Eden is a pearl diver, primarily long-forgotten US labels such as Aeroleathers, Bluntstone, Vanson Leathers, Skorpion or Davida Helmets, all part of his portfolio now. There's no room for Wannabe Originals in his store. "I don't think much of brands that actually come from a different profession and suddenly, just because a trend appears, jump onto the authentic bandwagon", he says. And this is something he always tries to convey to his customers. "If you ask me for a Belstaff jacket for motorcycling, then, first off, you'll get a lecture on brands regarding the original", he laughs. But this is exactly what his customers love about him - his honesty. x

–– 75

in store –– wali Store, munich

new Nike models. Because this is what Wasiri consistently focused on. On the wall are about twelve models, all wrapped in plastic wrap, real collector's items. His Quickstrike account with Nike is expected to again make way for that of Tier Zero as soon as possible.

wali's world When you hear Wasiri's story, you wonder why he chose Nike, of all brands, to be his store's partner. Wasiri is an experienced retailer, who in the past developed and led the Martin Margiela store in Munich. Then, he moved into the upmarket menswear specialist business. Since 2006, he has also been designing and selling his own T-shirt collection Wali World, which hangs in stores like Pook or Colette beside labels like Comme des Garçons. In 2009, he then opened the Wali Store. The partnership stemmed from a personal contact, and the simple fact that Nike supported Wasiri as a partner, in everything he does.

Wali himself. As well as running his own store, the Jack of all trades has also designed his own line and realised projects on the side, like this one with Mini.

Radically Pure The Wali Store is its own small cosmos, it looks like the centre of Berlin, but is the exact opposite, namely 100% the Lehel district of Munich. The Wali Store is not easy to categorise or understand quickly. This makes getting to know it all the more exciting. The same is true for the owner. Text Isabel Faiss Photo Wali Store

76 ––

s the store staying like this, or are you renovating at the moment?" "No, the store is exactly like this." "So, will any more sneakers or clothes be arriving?" "No." "In the pictures on the website..." "That was a temporary campaign with a special edition collection from Nike during the last World Cup. Since then, I've had no more clothes. It's all about the sneakers." Mohammad Wali Wasiri, called Wali, stands in his store that spans about twelve square metres and mostly faces the street. Out there, around Sankt Anna Square something is always going on. Wasiri has few walk-in customers here, those who come to his shop, mostly know exactly what they want beforehand: one of the hottest

The question that is on everyone's lips: Is Munich at all ready for this radical passion for sneakers that is reduced down to its most beautful essence? Wasiri can tell lots of stories about his customers, they range from a newly rich snobby kid, who comes with a ripped-out page of a magazine and wants the shoe that Miley Cyrus has just worn, to the owner of a renowned gallery in Munich, who puts the purchased sneaker on the shelf as a collector's item. Still, the store appeals more to the insider, the connoiseur, the informed customer. However, Wasiri is delighted by every customer who begins to be enthusiastic about the subject. What's special about the Wali Store is that everyone is taken seriously and that the real nerds can be exclusively informed by Wasiri personally about the newest designs and info. x

wali store

An-der-Sankt-Anna-Strasse 13, 80538 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.92566102, www.waliworld.tv Owners: Mohammad Wali Wasiri Opening: 2009 Surface area: 12 sqm Labels: Comme des Garçons, DMS, Nike, Wali World

Saffeels, Munich –– in store

The Essence of a Woman

Vintage is a way of life. In the case of Sandy Saffeels, owner of Saffeels in Munich, it's a deep passion for style eras gone by, like the '50s and the divas from old Hollywood films. Text Isabel Faiss Photos Saffeels 02

ou won't find this selection of dresses anywhere else in Munich, in fact you'll find it nowhere else. Right from the doorway, the store has an effect almost like a film set. And this is an obvious association to make because Sandy Saffeels is in fact a successful film editor. Some of her biggest projects include films like Sonnenallee and Harte Jungs or Adam Resurrected with Jeff Goldblum and Willem Dafoe. Hanging according to colour, densely packed onto two clothes rails, are dresses that offer a brief sketch of the history of costume over the last 60 years. While big fashion houses and brand stores stubbornly negate all feminine curves with puristic, loose-fitting slip-on dresses down to the thighs, Sandy Saffeels has specialised in women's clothing, which should highlight what is special in every character. "There is something beautiful in every woman, which can and should be emphasised," she says. The range spans from XL to XS, from petticoats by the American brand Bettie Page to romantic cocktail dresses from the brand Fever, which look like the great Hollywood divas once wore them. But nothing is second hand here, except for the glasses, which Sandy Saffeels gets from a friend of hers, a vintage glasses retailer from East Village in New York. "The word vintage says everything and nothing. So, I always add on the word style, basically, I don't sell flea market products from times gone by."

01 02

Sandy Saffeels is in her store every day herself, giving personal attention and advice to every customer individually. The original vintage glasses in Saffeels are also of interest to the male target group and underlines the store’s statement.

To Dress, Not Disguise Every dress makes you want to try it on. However, the ambitious store-owner focuses on ensuring that her customers feel good and don't feel like they are in disguise. "In my shop, you always see the essence of a person. It's unbelievably exciting, what you can tease out of a person with a dress, without disguising them. With some women, my heart begins to beat faster when I see how they glow in a dress."

The Windows of Change Selected artists decorate the display window in Saffeels every six to eight weeks. Sandy Saffeels leaves them complete freedom in the design. In May, the fashion photographer Shunghee Seewald designed the display window, under the motto "I love myself with a mirror and an auto-release from the outside. "It really suits my shop, because the beauty of a woman is my central theme," says Sandy. x

“In my shop, you always see the essence of a person.” Sandy Saffeels

Saffeels

Westenriederstrasse 63, 80799 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.45214660, www.saffeels.com Owner: Sandy Saffeels Opening: Juni 2011 Women's labels: 3Free Design NYC, Amarillo Limon, Bettie Page, Fever London, Flirt NYC, Hookahey, Mein Herzblut, UVR Connected Berlin Glasses: Vintage Eyewear, Spectaculars Accessories: Lenorables, Tuk Tuk Ltd.

–– 77

One last thing

AGAINST THE ALARMISM Text Stephan Huber, Editor of style in progress and x-ray

he fashion industry is suffering from an annoying, contagious and, if left untreated, not entirely safe disease. As far as I know, there's no medical term to describe it. I just call it "offensive bad-mouthing." And hardly anyone is immune. Even me. In the lead-up to the latest Berlin Fashion Week, I too participated in superficial speculations, irritated by different cancellations by brands, publicised to varying extents, brands who felt like part of the Bread & Butter's permanent inventory. Stupid! Stupid because it completely overlooks the issue, attaching the development of Berlin as a location to topical and individual decisions by particular companies. Even if they are big names. Stupid because there is a real need for debate and action on the future development of Berlin as a location. But also beyond comforting alarmism with which we like to pass time. For once, let's look at how things are: The Fashion Week as a whole has impressed once again. Anyone who returned home without taking something with them, whether they be contacts, ideas, business, guidance has done something wrong themselves. Whether there were actually fewer professional visitors in Berlin, or whether this was only suspected, is irrelevant, provided that enough of the right people come. We certainly don't need to be constantly breaking records. And personally, I would prefer if all those who are not actually professional visitors weren't standing around in the way at all. To put it bluntly. So it's all good? No need for change? No! Because on the one hand there is the offensive bad-mouthing which I mentioned above. And we need to confront this. And on the other hand this is definitely the right time to evaluate Berlin as a location and its biggest protagonists. And here I have a few requests and suggestions: – I don't need to explain to the Bread & Butter and Karl-Heinz Müller how to run their business. I really don't. I just want to say that among the big, the small can often get lost. But those that are smaller are so important to ensure that those that are bigger remain interesting and can function. – The Premium and its creators who, rightly, are proud of the development of their event, please allow me to make the following contribution to your autograph book: Those who have grown should not forget what it was like when they were still small themselves. And so show greatness when dealing with those that are smaller today. – The city of Berlin and its political leaders somehow still haven't understood the level of huge profits that the Fashion Week brings to the city. Yes... ok, the governing mayor does attend everything. A sensible solution to the traffic problem might be more helpful these days than the group photos with Wowi.

78 ––

– Dear Berlin Hotel Owners: I didn't believe for a second that you could resist the temptations of the market economy. Supply and demand... no problem. But you promised sooooo innocently that Berlin would be different on this issue too. And so now I may at least complain. – And here's some advice for the entire, grassed-up fashion industry, always so quickly dissatisfied and yet casual: We are offered excellence in Berlin, at the right time in the right place. And that the grass is greener on the other side is an optical illusion. I've checked. x Stephan Huber wishes you a great summer

Imprint Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Publishing B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber, Nicolaus Zott Publisher Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Editors-in-chief Ina Köhler ina@ucm-verlag.at Isabel Faiss isabel.faiss@ucm-verlag.at Managing editor Alexandra Hawel alexandra.hawel@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/assistant Stephanie Hoffmann steffi.hoffmann@ucm-verlag.at Michaela Aschauer michaela.aschauer@ucm-verlag.at Contributing editors Ralf Becker, Jo Fischer, Fritz Heinrich, Claudia Janka, Julia Lauber, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicolette Scharpenberg

Photographers & Illustrators Jo Fischer, Fritz Heinrich, Pawel Swanski, Henning Weskamp, Federica Roncaldier, Veit Ritterbecks Styling Agi Habryka, Friederike von Bock Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher‘s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations transmit-Deutschland Printing Laber Druck, Oberndorf Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627, Sort Code: 45010

SHOP TOMMY.COM