7. issue UGLY FAT MAGAZINE by UGLY FAT

UGLY FAT M A G a Z I N E

TROUBLE 7. ISSUE

PEOPLE Editor in chief & chief stylist: Tue Elkjær // tue@uglyfat.dk Creative director: Sandra Vinding // sandra@uglyfat.dk Chief photographer: Anja Ekstrøm // anja@uglyfat.dk

For advertisement; contact advertising@uglyfat.dk

Writers: Charlotte K. Stage, Daniel Jacob Delove, Tue Elkjær.

Photographers: Anja Ekstrøm, Josef Brock, Pernille Vinkler.

Stylists: Tue Elkjær.

Makeup and/or hair: Charlotte K. Stage, Cirkeline Coco Singh, Laura Simion.

FRONT PAGE: Photographer: Anja Ekstrøm // www.anjaekstroem.dk model: linea Kornby Kalnæs stylist: Tue elkjær // www.uglyfat.dk makeup & hair: Laura Simion

SPECIAL THANKS TO: Agency V, Copenhagen Fashion Week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com, Holm & Bertung, Kolonihaven // www.kolonihaven.com PR Connect, Profil Optik, SOIL Agency, Spalt PR.

brands & dealers PAGE 10-18

www.creton.com www.schjoenning.dk

www.rackbuddy.dk

www.enough.as www.eva-claudi.com

Page 19-31 PAGE 142-149 www.henriksilvius.com www.weekday.com

www.nature.dk

www.henrikvibskovboutique.com

www.barbour.com

www.barbaraigongini.dk

www.freyadalsjo.com www.henrikvibskov.com

Page 39-124

www.shamballajewels.com www.poulstigbriller.dk

www.barbaraigongini.dk www.designersremix.com www.fonnesbech-cph.com www.hankjobenhavn.com www.henriksilvius.com www.henrikvibskovboutique.com www.jeanphillip.dk www.maikeltawadros.com www.nicholasnybro.dk PAGE 129-141 www.deakudibal.com www.bogelund-jensen.com www.lasse-spangenberg.dk www.fonnesberg.com www.gatrimon.com www.michalawiesneck.com www.basicapparel.dk

www.ninnayork.com

CONTENT LETTER FROM THE EDITOR // PAGE 6 Article // A cover story // PAGE 9 Feature // Getting your shit together // PAGE 10 editorial // If I could turn back time // PAGE 19 Article // The trouble of doing hair // PAGE 32 Feature // Planning the season // PAGE 39 Article // Ugly Fat out-cast (Egypt) // PAGE 125 editorial // In trouble // PAGE 129 Feature // The trouble-solverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shopping list // page 142

letter from the editor Words by Tue Elkjær We all have troubles in our lives, some more than others. But trouble is a very relative term. Not knowing what to wear in the morning can be an insuperable problem, even though we live in a world facing environmental issues, market instability and an increasingly explosive political situation on a global scale. Knowing there are bigger problems out there, than ones own, doesn’t make ones own troubles less troublesome. It’s still difficult to know what to wear, it is an eternal conundrum. How can I have a closet full of clothes, that I even like, and yet never have the perfect thing to wear? Why don’t I have the omnipotent dressing-software from the movie “Clueless”? It would make life so much easier! Well, I don’t live in the movie “Clueless” and I, along with you readers, will just have to deal with the messiness of real life. But is that really so bad!? Belle & Sebastian sang; “color my life with the chaos of trouble” and I rather think they have a point – well, within moderation. In accord to Belle & Sebastian I lead a very colorful life. As much as I would love to be one of those people who has everything under control all the time, I’m not. I can’t wear all-white-outfits without spilling coffee all over myself, my hair (like my home) is always a little messy, no matter how much I try to keep it tidy and I’m usually late to everything. By now, I have long given up trying to make me and my life match the image of perfection, I have in my head. Instead I’ve accepted that my hair will always be a little out of place and that I don’t have control of everything. Because there is a beauty in chaos – as long as you don’t get in too deep. Think of the tumultuous lives of icons like Edith Piaf, Karen Blixen or Yves Saint Laurent. UGLY FAT MAGAZINE is all about being the odd one out, embracing ones uniqueness and encourage to choose your own path (no matter what magazines like us tell you to do). In this issue UGLY FAT MAGAZINE both celebrate and try to remedy your personal troubles by suggesting new additions to your wardrobe. Shopping may not solve your troubles (in fact it may be the cause of your troubles) but you can always try, right? But most importantly we try to show how fashion can change your perspective of the world and of yourself. Fashion, like troubles, builds character – both makes you more....well, you and what could be better than being you!

Tue ElkjĂŚr - Editor in chief Picture by Pernille Vinkler

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a cover story

WHY WE CHANGED THE COVER OF THE 6’TH ISSUE Words by Tue Elkjær As editor in chief of this magazine, my job is mostly to do with managing assignments, people and problems. In a business like fashion, with all it’s creative and inspiring people, there are never shortage of problems, mostly problems caused by some people at times having a bit too much of an... lets call it “artistic temperaments”. There is a fine line between being creative and unconventional to just being a diva. Sometimes when you work in a creative environment, moods can swing high and creative differences can become huge problems, especially, when assignments; like photoshoots, takes a lot of people from idea to finished photos in a magazine. Because there are so many links, from model, model agency, makeup, hair, styling, photographer and magazine editors – miscommunication can easily happen. This was sadly the case in our last issue, when we were forced to remove an editorial from the magazine, including our cover photo – after we’ve already published the magazine. The simple fact that any dissatisfaction of the assignment, was first aired and brought to my attention after we’ve already published the magazine, is something I think is very distasteful and regard as a diva hissy fit. In fact this business acquaintance in question made the mistake of trying to bully us. So therefor we felt forced to remove the editorial and the cover of the 6’th issue. This view is because there had been clear communication in the months prior to publication, which we feel left plenty of time to say everything, before we had actually published. If you mean no, then don’t say yes. if you change your mind, then let people know. But this wasn’t the case, instead no voices was raised until after publication, were we experienced being bullied by a business partner. But we don’t have time for shit like that. In all businesses, time is of the essence, especially when working on iron clad deadlines, so there is no room, nor time for diva attitudes in serious business. Although we do welcome humor and irony, even if it tends to be on the bitchy side – after all business should never be dull, magazine publishing is after all a business about entertainment. You might have noticed, that we have not named any names or put blame on anyone specifically, but that is because public blaming and shaming isn’t our style. We like The Scarlet Letter as much as anyone, but as entertainment, not as a lifestyle. Instead we prefer to report on the positive in the (fashion) world, simply because we feel, there is enough ugliness out there. So instead telling all of you readers which one of our business relationships has gone sour, I’ll instead say that I’m very proud and happy with all of the employees and freelancers of UGLY FAT – we wouldn’t be a magazine without them or their amazing work and creative minds.

GETTING YOUR SHIT TOGETHER a guide to organizing your closet We think that most people, who are interested in fashion, know the trouble of an unorganized wardrobe. It really doesn’t matter how many kick-ass-things you have in your closet, if you can’t locate the exact kick-ass-item you need it, while you’re already late for work or some other appointment. That’s why we love anything that help us organize all our fashion goodies – que RACKBUDDY. RACKBUDDY is an urban interior and design company that creates products to help you stay organized. One of the company’s hit products are, yes, you’ve guessed it; racks. But it’s not just racks, it’s industrial-chic clothing racks, that will make any mess, of an overstuffed wardrobe look, chic and yet roughhemmed, in just the right way. They even have a DIY service, were you can design your own clothing rack, so you get just the right system for your wardrobe. But don’t just take our word for it, check out their nice racks by yourself (yes, that was a boob joke! Sorry, couldn’t resist). But seriously you guys, RACKBUDDY is an easy, chic and surprisingly inexpensive way to organize your wardrobe and maybe finally you’ll have a system were you know where everything is just at hand and easy to find when you’re rushing out the door to your, more or less, fabulous life. find at www.rackbuddy.dk

if i could turn back time What ever happened to street style and street youths – there used to be such style over both, but has begun to be rather vulgar in our eyes. Bling and hoodies isn’t as stylish as the leather biker jackets of the 50’s and 60’s or the vagabond or sailors of the 20’s and 30’s. This is rather a problem to us. We don’t want to sound bitchy or old fashioned (it’s a total coincidence, that we do), but we do hanker for the style of the past. We go home after work and just dream about people wearing hats, recognizing the importance of the right gloves or dress like gentlemen, no matter their rank. But luckily there is still style and grace in the fashion community, with designers like HENRIK VIBSKOV, BARBARA I GONGINI or HENRIK SILVIUS, who dress men in style. We honor those designers and brands, who truly have a unique style and who is doing there best to spread it around. We have a dream, that one day we will go outside and everyone one else won’t be wearing sweat pants, hoodies and sneakers. We have a dream that real life was as beautiful, and expertly retouched, as a fashion editorial. So we took to the streets around one of our favorite Danish stores Kolonihaven, to recapture some style and elegance of dressing. Photographer: Josef Brock // www.facebook.com/fashionphotosbrock model: Daniel Jacob Delove stylist: Tue elkjær // www.uglyfat.dk makeup & hair: Cirkeline Coco Singh Location: Around the store Kolonihaven // www.kolonihaven.com

Coat; Henrik Silvius - Turtleneck; weekday - Pants; Henrik Silvius

Coat; Henrik Silvius - Turtleneck; weekday - Gloves; weekday - Pants; Henrik Silvius

Anorak; Henrik Silvius - Turtleneck; Henrik Silvius - Pants; Henrik Vibskov

Anorak; Henrik Silvius - Shirt; Henrik Vibskov - Pants; weekday

Anorak; Henrik Silvius - Shirt; Henrik Vibskov

Suit; Henrik Vibskov - Top; Barbara i Gongini - Scarf; weekday

Coat; weekday

Suit; Henrik Vibskov - Top; Barbara i Gongini - Scarf; weekday - Coat; weekday

The trouble of doing your hair Words by Charlotte K. Stage Let me tell you a Secret Braids are not just braids, but can be created in endless ways, making them fit your every mood. You can cover them with pearls, ribbons and gems making the colored or natural nuances of your hair come alive. They are practical and can be used to provide your hair with a sophisticated look when going to work, a fancy appearance when attending dinner parties or with a casual twist when having coffee with friends. Blogs, catwalks and fashion magazines often present a great variety of trendy braids, and wouldn’t it be lovely to join the fun by being able to construct your own braids in a quick and easy way? Personally I was very exited when I heard about the Twist Secret from Babyliss, that with the functions Quick and ‘Easy Braids’ and ‘Do it yourself ’ enables you to put a personal twist on your braids in a fast and simple way. Twist Secret is somewhat similar to the Babybliss Magic Twist from the 90’s. The box The box is practical and can without any hassle fit in your purse. The design is pretty and the color combination of black, pink and white, that is applied to the twister, is likewise found on the sides of the box. On the front is a picture displaying the twister and four options of how to create exciting hairstyles. The back of the box provides a quick overview of the twister as well as a 3-point instruction that easily explains how the Twist Secret functions. The right side of the box displays another picture of inspiration and the left side provides an image of the Twist Secret as well as the test: ‘Do it Yourself ’. Twist Secret As I opened the box and first laid eyes on the twister it somewhat resembled an alien with a black face and pointy eyes. When I found the courage to remove the Twist Secret from the box I immediately noticed that it fitted well and comfortable in my hand. The design is pleasant with soft round edges, and the grooves on the back prevents it from gliding around in the hand. The Twist Secret doesn’t weigh much nor does it take up a lot space, which makes it easy to carry places. It is driven by batteries, which means that you don’t have struggle with a long wire or worry about bringing a charger. On the left and right side, under the clamps, are to black buttons that has to be pushed up manually in order for the clamps to open. The red button on the top of the handle shows two functions namely I and II. When the button is pushed upwards towards I, the clamps rotates and when pushed downwards towards II the head of the Twister turns. When releasing the button, the Twister ceases. The clamps can seem a lit-

tle tight, especially if only using the forefinger. However, one can choose to manually turn the upper part towards the left so that the clamps are turned in the right direction in order for the strength of the thump to be applied instead. The Twister does not become too hot when used. The instructions that comes with the Twister explains in great detail how it is used and contains illustrations as well as suggestions on how to twist ribbons and pearls in the braids. Furthermore, the illustrations also show how hair accessories can be made, however in this edition the box did not enclose any hair accessories nor hair elastics. User experience Now I finally had the chance to quick and easy spice up my normal ponytail with a trendy twist, so I didn’t hesitate to start combing my hair, making a ponytail on my left side, while I looked forward to resemble the looks of Elsa from Disney’s “Frozen”. I took the Twist Secret in my hand and pushed the first clamp upwards with my thump and the second with my forefinger, which turned out to require a little more effort. While I was sitting and fumbling to get the second piece of hair in the clamp, I accidentally hit the I button that made the clamps turn. In my confusion my forefinger slid of the clamp, which caused some of my hair to become seriously entangled, while the piece started rotating. As I tried to stop the rotation I accidentally pushed the button downwards to II causing the Twister to twist one of the half-rotated pieces of hair with the hair caught in the second clamp. When I removed the finger from the button the Twister stopped, producing a look that more resembled that of Mrs. Haystack. I combed my hear through, which was surprisingly easy and tried again were I gained the desired outcome. The twist turned out really well and hung gently down my shoulder. The next day, I put my hair in a bun, but let a piece of hair loose that I twisted and then wrapped around the bun. It was painless and easy to create and definitely a hairstyle I will use in the future. The same I will say for the elf/boheme hairstyle, where pieces of hair is twisted together on each side of the face and either by connecting them together with a nice buckle or twist them together in the back. When I made this hairstyle I twisted a thin ribbon in the braid and attached little decorative gems stone. When I returned from work that night I loosened the bun and separated the hair in different sections, both bigger and smaller in order to establish what is easiest to work with and to identify the differences between the braids. Smaller sections seems to work the best and when the twist is completed it stays put. A trick to use is to backcomb the end of the braid as well as apply a little hair hairspray (e.g. Kevin Murphy’s Session Spray) that makes the hair stay where it’s supposed to, as well as provide it with a beautiful shine. In general you should be aware not to apply too much hair spray, but just enough to keep the twists together as well as provides some texture. The best result can be achieved if the hair is pulled straight after the clamps have been applied.

User experience, when making braids on my sister One day my sister stopped by and I decided to test the hairstyles “Romantic” that is depicted on the front of the box. When I had found the technique to manually turn the Twist Secret, applying a new section of hair with every turn, the hairstyle was surprisingly easy to create. The result turned out very well and my sister was very pleased. After that I started creating a French inspired braid as shown in this link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUmHLGIG4kY. My first impression when trying to create the braid was that it required somewhat double work, first to twist the different pieces of hair to then, at the end, braid it all together. It seems complicated and in my own personal opinion it is easier to do the French braid the normal way, however it was also easier to do when I only had to deal with two pieces of hair at the time. The twists are fuller, and when braiding all twists together, it leaves a nice and different twist to the French braids. The Color of the Clamps and Button The box is small and has a practical size. The inspirational pictures on the side as well as the colors provides a fast overview of both the appearance and functions of the Twist Secret. A smaller detail that should be kept in mind is that the clamps and button on the Twist Secret are not as pink as depicted on the box, but are on the contrary quite red. The color difference is rather obvious so I personally find it a bit misleading, if pink is the color you want. The lid covering the battery The lid for the battery has to be screwed on and off, which is convenient due to the fact that it prevents it from falling off the device, should it be dropped on the floor, or when it is bumping around in your purse. However, on the other hand it is also a little annoying that you need a screwdriver to get the battery out, especially if you e.g. are on holiday and therefore don’t have a screwdriver laying around. The instructions provides you with suggestions as to how you can prolong the life of the battery such as e.g. taking the battery out when the device is not in use. Again, this can seem quite a hassle if you need to use a screwdriver to remove the battery every time you don’t need to use it. The clamps are too tight It is a possibility that I have poor strength in my forefinger, or that I do not yet master the art of opening the clamps, however as I am a trained Garment Technologist as well as a Makeup Artist, I am quite used to using my hands and fingers. The spring on the clamp is too tight and it is rather difficult to get the clamp high enough to be able to place the piece of hair. Furthermore, the downward bended beak of the clamp’s red top complicates the matter of pushing the piece of hair all the way in. As mentioned previously, you can turn the Twist Secret in order to use the strength of the thump instead, however it does

not necessarily makes it easier, because of the difficulty of not being able to see what you are doing, when working on the sides or in the back. A solution could have been to have a button that automatically made the clamps move up and down with a single push. The button It is convenient that the device only functions as long as you keep the button down. However, one irritating thing is that you easily get to touch it by accident, when putting the hair in the clamps, which can lead to having to start all over again. This can be rather annoying and you do not have to do it many times before you lose the joy of using the device. One solution could be to be to ensure, that the button did not stick out so much, in order to not keep hitting it by accident again and again. The device does not get hot Twist Secret does not get hot and can therefore be placed on every side after use. Thus, the hair does not become damaged from using it either, and therefore you do not have to think about buying products that protects the hair against the heat, as other styling devices often requires you to do. Gathering the pieces of hair: It is a good thing to apply a little hairspray, that makes the hairs stay together. However, you have to pay attention to the fact that the hair should not become too smooth and therefore you should hold back on styling products. The order is important: With the Twist secret you have to think carefully of which way you wish to start and in which order you place the pieces of hair in the device. This is due to the fact that it becomes very visible if the pieces of hair cross each other before you twist and the result is not pretty. However if the braids do not turn out the way you intended, then you can easily remove them and start again. Conclusively Several good and bad things can be said about the Twist Secret. The fact that it does not need a charger nor have a long cord makes it easy to carry around with you. The Twist Secret is very useful when wanting to add a little spice to simple hairstyles as e.g. twisting your ponytail or covering your hair bun with braids. You get a great result using Twist Secret for hairstyles such as ‘Hippy Chic’ and ‘Romantic’ that are depicted on the front page of the box and it is fun to do together with siblings and friends. However, those hairstyles are in my opinion, more difficult to create and not something you can do alone. Therefore one can thus discuss if the sentence ‘Do it yourself ’ is the right phrase to use. The French braid inspired braid does get more volume as well as a new twist, however one can argue if this is necessary. Furthermore the clamps are too tight and you too easily touch the button by accident. If you are used to working with hairstyling devices and you can live with the small difficulties, that I have

presented in this review, then I personally believe that it is well worth the money. Obviously, it takes time to get to know how the different functions work and so, with time it does become a lot easier to use. Occasionally, I might use Twist Secret, although it will not be as indispensable as my other hairstyling devices. The Twist Secret is a good product with a good idea behind it, however in my opinion it sadly does not live up to my expectations. On behalf of Ugly Fat Magazine, I give the Twist Secret a two out of five stars.

planning the season Our guide to Danish style for aw15 Most troubles come from not knowing all the facts and from not looking ahead. We’ve done a lot of vetting of Danish fashion, to give you all the information, we deemed crucial, for your autumn and winter shopping. That’s basically a long way of saying; here’s our favorite Autumn/Winter looks, from our favorite shows, at our favorite fashion week; Copenhagen Fashion Week. We’ve done the research, so all you need to do is see the pictures, read our opinion and decide for yourself, what you like.

Barbara i Gongini Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: draped – monochrome - layers Why we love it We’ll always admire BARBARA I GONGINI, both the label and the designer by the same name, for sticking to her guns and displaying her own personal style, rather than following fashion trends. We also respect the difficulty there must be, in refusing to follow fashions and yet staying fashion relevant – this is nothing less than miraculous and yet BARBARA I GONGINI pulls it of, season after season. Each item can easily be incorporated in any wardrobe and not only could, but should be worn out of season. Furthermore the designs of BARBARA I GONGINI is for an acquired taste, meaning you won’t be just another one in the crowd, when your wearing a piece from GONGINI. After all, as Chanel said; in order to be irreplaceable one must always be different. Both BARBARA I GONGINI as a label and each of her designs live up to this Chanel meme. find at www.barbaraigongini.dk Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

designers remix Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: 70’s trend – high necklines - everyday glamor Why we love it There’s been several 70’s vibes and revivals on the fashion scene this season (just think of Gucci’s FW15), but few design houses has managed to do it as elegant and stylish as DESIGNERS REMIX. The collection is very aptly called “Racing to the past” and as you can see, the show was held in a racing, ehm, place (what the hell are those places called). It’s very clear to see the woman behind the label Charlotte Eskildsen, creative director and founder of DESIGNERS REMIX. This is clothes for women, by a woman, which is evident in the focus of wearability as well as elegance and the relaxed attitude to femininity in the design. This collection is definitely for the confidant woman who dresses for her own pleasure. find at www.designersremix.com Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

fonnesbech Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: sustainable – classic - elegant Why we love it First of all, the FONNESBECH label debuted during Copenhagen Fashion Week with this AW15 collection and still the label has a long history, with ties to the historic Danish department store by the same name; Fonnesbech. FONNESBECH has somehow managed to brand themselves as new and historic at the same time and that’s just awesome, it’s like getting two for the price of one. Secondly, the label just goes straight to our hearts with its focus on sustainability, not only in the work process, but also in the style – their clothes are made to last, both in regards to handicraft and design. Technically, what FONNESBECH creates is in nature, not fashion as such, on the contrary their items are made to outlast any fashion trend. This means that their clothes make great investments and their style is focused on classic chic and wearability. The classicism of their design can always, if the mood strikes, be mixed with the latest fashion craze if it pleases you – again and again, season after season. find at www.fonnesbech-cph.com Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

han kjøbenhavn Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: technocracy – modern dandy striver – geometry Why we love it HAN KJØBENHAVN’s AW15 collection seems to be very inspired by the digital information age and its eternal chase for breakthroughs and fast money – which usually ends with desillusion. Its a scary tale we’ve actually seen happen several times in real life (in the last thirty years) and it usually ends in bankrupcy and a gun to the head. The show for HAN KJØBENHAVN was no different, with one of the models taking a gun to his head and pull the trigger, which resulted in his body dropping to the ground, and green blood splattering all over the place – interesting that his blood was green as dollar bills. Despite, or perhaps because of, the violence and desillusion of the show and the eternal hunt for more, it was more than attractive. We’ve all heard tales of the femme fatale, but HAN KJØBENHAVN and his AW15 puts the spotlight on the modern homme fatale – a type that’s like a fabulous hybrid between Jordan Belfort and Oscar Wilde, living in the modern day technocratic age. HAN KJØBENHAVN is dressing the modern dandy of the technocratic age, an homme fatale, who not only sees the potential of the digital information and computer-millions, but who also sees the dark side, the negative of our capitalist society and has enough dark humor to laugh a little at the world around him. In case you’re wondering, we actually mean all of this as huge compliments. HAN KJØBENHAVN is throwing society back in our Instagram-addicted-faces and showing us the contradictions of our behavior, we can’t have it all, but we can look damn fine in HAN KJØBENHAVN clothes – maybe we can wear it in our next selfie! Find at www.hankjobenhavn.com Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

henrik silvius Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: body – working man chic - sensuality Why we love it This is HENRIK SILVIUS’ second collection as a brand and the collection rather surprised us, in a good way. The brands second collection for this autumn/winter was in no way a repeat of the all-white collection, they debuted with last season. The AW15 collection still has an emphasis on body and desire of the body, but in a more subtle way. The clothes themselves was way more wearable for the average guy’s everyday life and less conceptual, but the collection still have a distinct and independent style, which we love. Mostly we love how HENRIK SILVIUS manages to have his own style, which is completely separate from all other Scandinavian menswear brands, but his brand still contains the ideals of Scandinavian style – like simplicity. However HENRIK SILVIUS also contains the rather foreign elements of ironic playfulness and sensuality (without ever being aggressive), which makes HENRIK SILVIUS’ style completely his own and just to-die-for-fabulous. find at www.henriksilvius.com Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

henrik vibskov Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: full looks – new classics – old school meets urban avantgarde Why we love it This is another collection that surprised us a bit, since it’s simpler than what we usually see from HENRIK VIBSKOV, but it works and is as fabulous as any HENRIK VIBSKOV collection. But in this collection HENRIK VIBSKOV seems to be interpreting the modern bourgeois, at least compared to HENRIK VIBSKOV’s earlier work. The models at the show seemed to be the new gentlemen and ladies, rather than the upscale, avantgardist street youths the brand used to design for. To us this is a welcome and interesting development, especially since it has in no way interrupted the classic humorous and non-conformist spirit of the HENRIK VIBSKOV label. Once again, VIBSKOV’s amazing work crowns him as a king of Danish fashion. find at www.henrikvibskov.com Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Jean//Phillip Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: simplicity – militarism – dark tones Why we love it JEAN//PHILLIP seems to be armoring up for battle this autumn/winter, with a collection named “Bulletproof ”. The collection was apparently inspired by the bulletproof vest and was full of discrete military details. The collection had lots of leather, mesh and a deconstructed camoflage-like pattern - all in a silhouette that was draped to follow the male body – but leaving plenty of room for movability. The look was very dark, both literally with lots and lots of black, but also figuratively with a tough, but irresistible, attitude. All in all, the collection seemed to be made for a reconfigured Marlon Brando 2.0 (one can dare to dream of such splendors) – and yet the clothes themselves were timeless and has the classic Danish practicality and wearability. The same can not be said for the awesome silver hair – although we would LOVE to have that hairdo - talk about being a silver fox. Each item in the collection followed the JEAN//PHILLIP creed; of being more style than trend, so any item can indeed survive past the season and be worn for years without looking outdated – what’s more bulletproof than that. find at www.jeanphillip.dk Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Maikel Tawadros Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: black – animal materials – nomadic practicality Why we love it For his AW15 collection, the designer MAIKEL TAWADROS has gotten inspiration from the life of the nomads, which seems fitting for these times, where change seems to be the only constant. But if you think this is gypsy chic, think again. MAIKEL TAWADROS has managed to distill the spirit of nomadic life into the style of a hard core fashionista. With animal materials like wool, leather and finn racoon fur (which we believe is from SAGA FURS) MAIKEL TAWADROS has brought our cultural roots back in style. But the whole nomadic essence was distilled with familiar fashion elements like a mostly monochrome color scale, the added glamor of chiffon and with an entirely modern silhouette, yet the entire collection was made for walking (and we’d love to see Nancy Sinatra model the collection). The models even walked down the catwalk in sensible shoes, if you can believe it! find at www.maikeltawadros.com Pictures courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Nicholas Nybro Words by Tue Elkjær Keywords: partying – glamor – sooo shiny Why we love it Well, to begin with, NICHOLAS NYBRO’s collection for AW15 is super shiny and sparkly, sooo, you know, that always wins points with us. This is NICHOLAS NYBRO’s second collection showed at Copenhagen Fashion Week and, judging by the clothes, it looks like NICHOLAS NYBRO is celebrating. In fact, the collection is basically a parade of chic party outfits – and who doesn’t like to party! But as in the designers previous work, NICHOLAS NYBRO serves his glamor with a side of critical humor. His show was styled so the models looked almost like children playing dress up, rather than sophisticated fashionistas – complete with stylish stuffed toys and oversized silhouettes. But hey, isn’t being a fashionista all about playing dress up, have any of us fashionistas ever grown out of playing dress up – we don’t think so, we certainly haven’t, although we call it dressing for the occasion now and it takes us hours. Also, those oversized silhouettes hides the fact, that we don’t always find the time to do exercise, you know, between work, more work, family life and drinking wine. But we’ll definitely find the time to play dress up with NICHOLAS NYBRO and say drink to his good style! Find at www.nicholasnybro.dk Pictures of Helle Moos, courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Pictures of Helle Moos, Picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

Ugly fat Out-cast (Egypt) Words by Daniel Jacob Delove Fashion in one form or another has been with us since the dawn of time and I personally know a lot of people, who are very interested in fashion. But is fashion in modern times just a billion dollar industry, where the sole purpose is selling as much clothing, shoes and makeup as possible? Fashion isn’t only about that, because fashion, in the broadest sense of the word, is actually a much broader concept, that describes a whole range of human cultural creations ranging from architecture to music and design, etc. It is not unusual to hear people say, that they are not interested in fashion and that it is one of the most overrated things in this world, but is it really? Fashion can be everything; it can be the cute little dress from Alexandre Vauthier or a vintage blouse you just bought for 10 dollars. Fashion is all around us and I’m not just saying that, because of my interest in fashion, but I say it because you can see it everywhere you go. As you walk down the streets of Copenhagen in your dirty old converse shoes and with your worn out beloved leather bag over your shoulder, you’ll notice all the impressive old buildings and the many charming details in their design. The culture, the architecture, the choice of materials and the colors of the buildings are not just the result of random choices, but could also be considered a part of fashion and the result of the creativity of the individual. Fashion isn’t just a thing that somehow just started a few generations ago, fashion has actually been with us in one form or another as far back as anyone can remember. If we look back in our history books, they are not only about wars, royal families and major historical events, but fashion has been there too all along. We see it in France 200 years ago, where women wore big dresses and corsets to show their beauty, femininity and elegance and wore a lot of white makeup in order to live up to what was considered the ideal woman in those days. And we see it in African tribes where piercings and tattoos are used to show the elegance and power of human beings, so fashion isn’t one “correct thing” at any given time, but a diverse expression of culture, personal taste and human creativity. The clothes you like to wear isn’t just a collection of arbitrary fabric, but a choice that shows your mood and taste, your creativity and what you have in mind. In the Nordic countries we are very minimalistic in our style and taste, often black and white most

of the time and maybe – just maybe - with a discrete stripe or a hint of stronger colors that can barely be seen. I remember my history lessons in school, when my teacher was teaching us about the history of Egypt and the pyramids. It was a whole new world for me to be introduced to the Egyptian culture, music and architecture, - and to learn, that the first stone pyramid was built in 2700 B.C. 2700 years before year zero in our calendar they could build these gargantuan and mind blowing monuments without modern machines and remember, that even with the latest state of the art construction technology, we would still have a hard time erecting a similar structure anno 2015! Not only did I find the history of ancient Egypt fascinating, I also started to wonder if they had fashion in our sense of the word way back in the time of the pyramids. Ancient Egypt was a developed civilization in the north eastern part of Africa and was not only a magnificent civilization that could build enormous pyramids, but also a civilization with a very developed sense of fashion. Unsurprisingly, the climate in Egypt wasn’t remotely like Scandinavian weather, so the Egyptian fashion producers had to find a way to deal with the heat, which led them to use linen in many different and creative ways. Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, a.k.a Linum Usitatissimum, and it’s very laborious to manufacture. But the fiber is very absorbent and garments made of linen are valued for their exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather. Men’s fashion in Egypt was kind of simple, at least initially, and almost all men wore a wrap-around “skirt”, that was secured at the waist with a simple belt. Bob Dylan sang “The Times They Are A-Changing” and although skirts would be considered a feminine piece of clothing in our time, in Egypt in those days, it was a masculine apparel, that males would wear habitually. But the men did not only wear identical and a never changing kind of skirt every day. The skirts came in many different shapes and forms depending on the occasion, social function, the individuals’ status in the Egyptian society and the fashion at the time. From my history books in school I also learned that Egypt, back then, was a very diverse society socially, with rich people, poor people and a middle class, somewhat like we know it today! Rich Egyptian men were able to buy the best high quality linen available at the time, but besides wearing beautiful linen, men also decorated their clothing with jewellery and sometimes even wore headdresses.

Besides wearing jewellery and skirts, men in ancient Egypt also wore make-up. And no, not make-up as the drag queens wore in the 1994 movie “Priscilla Queen of the Desert”, but they used black coal eyeliner to emphasize their eyes and darken their eye lashes and eye brows. And if they weren’t that happy with black, they could always opt for using green, blue or red eye shadow, that was made from powdered minerals! When I realized that men were used jewellery, headdresses and makeup, I could not help being surprised about how dramatically the view of clothing and gender had changed from the times of the pyramids to the modern society I live in right now. Yes, I know there are thousands of years between our society and ancient Egypt, but it’s still surprising, how the perception of what is appropriate for a man to wear has changed and that a man wearing jewellery, headdress and makeup today, would be consider decidedly feminine. Perhaps one of the most important functions of fashion, besides the personal statement, style and expression, is to challenge the rigid norms of society and give people, regardless of gender, a far greater range of choices and liberty from stereotypical and confining labels such as “feminine” or “masculine”. Like fashion changes, so did the Egyptian customs and during the time of Ramses III from 11871156 B.C. the Egyptian people wore less overt makeup and used more oils and animal fat to protect their skin from the harsh climate. Not only did they slowly stop using very expressive makeup, but they started to make their own lotions and moisturizers, that both men and women would use in their daily beauty routine. The fashion started to change again in the old kingdom 2650 to 2134 B.C., when the men started to focus a lot on the eyes and began to use black kohl eyeliner and extended their eyelids and started to use colorful eye makeup, some of the most popular eye makeup was actually emerald eye shadow that was made of copper carbonate. So throughout the course of history the ancient Egyptians slowly changed their taste in fashion, just like we still do thousands of years later in 2015, new trends would appear and the old would gradually disappear and then sometimes even reappear. In the 1970’s people in our part of the world did not seem to care as much about body hair and personal grooming as many people do today and the Egyptians went through similar trends. We now know, that Egyptians paid careful attention to their body- and facial hair and historians has discovered, that there were hairstylists and barbers in ancient Egypt and that men and women

meticulously removed all their body hair, plucked their eyebrows and lashes, you name it, they did it. Even in preparing for the afterlife the ancient Egyptians paid attention to their appearance with carefully applied makeup and perfumes, so they could die and pass on with dignity and as beautiful as possible. Now you may think why does Daniel Jacob mix fashion and history together? Well it’s mostly because I always hear people talk about trends and how fast they are changing, as if it’s something we in the 19th and 20th century has invented and created, but every time I learn more about history or read a book about how people lived their lives in yet another country in ancient times, I always think about the fashion part in it too, because fashion isn’t only about clothing, but it affects everything around us, just like let’s say math. On this subject, I can really recommend Gilles Lipovetsky, a very interesting philosopher and writer, who has made provocative and very thoughtful statements about the role of trends and fashion and how we as human beings always seem to find something new, when we get bored with the old. And that’s why fashion is so interesting, because it will never end, since creative humans will always find inspiration in new things around them and create new trends in fashion, when the old trends are approaching the end of their natural life cycle and the fashion, it has produced, has lost its edge and appeal!

IN TROUBLE Troubles are something the western world tries to avoid at all cost – that’s why insurance is such a big business. But like Lennon said; “Life is what happens, when you’re busy making other plans”. Just think of one of our favorite aurtors and all time style star Baroness Karen Blixen, her life was full of troubles and she was made more interesting and stylish by it. Perhaps it’s not the most tempting beauty tip, but there is historic precedens for it’s efficiency. Look at Madame du Barry or even the Edies (as in Bouvier Beale), even though neither Big or Little Edie knew anything about maintaining a household (by God), they did know a thing or two about styling and dressing in midst of financial ruin. Particularly Big Edies life was full of troubles, from a dashed singing career to her infamous Mexican divorce from Phelan Beale and the disgrace that surrounded her East Hamptons Estate, Grey Gardens. But what came out of those troubles was art, the movie Grey Gardens was spectacular, even Little Edie is rumored to have called it an “instant classic” - most of all we admire the movie and Little Edie for the style tips. We love the lessons of how evening clothes are not just for the evening, scarfs will always be chic and a warm coat is everything. Indeed we think we’re going to make a mid-year resolution, to welcome trouble and scandal and be made more fabulous by them – like so many other fabulous, troubled fashionistas before us. Photographer: Anja Ekstrøm // www.anjaekstroem.dk model: linea Kornby Kalnæs stylist: Tue elkjær // www.uglyfat.dk makeup & hair: Laura Simion

Top + Clutch; Dea Kudibal - Vest; BĂ¸gelund-Jensen - Skirt; Lasse Spangenberg Shoes; Fonnesberg

Coat; Eva & Claudi – Dress; Bøgelund-Jensen – Scarf; Dea Kudibal

Top + Underslip + Skirt; Dea Kudibal â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Cardigan; Gat RImon

Top + Pants; M. Wiesneck - Dress; Basic Apparel – Fur coat; Créton Jeans – Boots; Fonnesberg

Top + Pants; M. Wiesneck - Dress; Basic Apparel – Fur coat; Créton Jeans

Skirt + Top + Coat; Dea Kudibal â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Necklace; Enough

Coat; Gat RImon - Dress; True by Lasse Spangenberg - Skirt; M. Wiesneck – Bag; Kirsten Schjønning – Shoes; Fonnesberg

Coat; Gat RImon - Dress; True by Lasse Spangenberg - Skirt; M. Wiesneck – Bag; Kirsten Schjønning

the trouble-solverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoppinglist (because regular groceries are boring)

KEEPING WARM They say the love of a good man will keep you warm, but so will a fur coat. Frankly, fur coats are way easier to find and way less up keep, basically just less trouble than cohabitation with another human being. So if you wanna save yourself some troubles it may be worth considering investing in a good fur coat, like this womens fur coat from FREYA DALSJØ. Besides, a good man is good to have (we’re not saying they’re not, in fact we love them), but there are modesty concerns, it is a little weird to use the “love of a good man” to warm yourself up, especially when your outside in public – you might be arrested for indecency in some countries. Besides, we just love the luxurious feeling of fur and we love FREYA DALSJØ – so a fur coat from FREYA DALSJØ just seems like natural fit - in our wardrobe – and like the easier choice, although not the cheapest. But hey, money don’t have value till you spend it, right! Find at www.freyadalsjo.com

WHO’S THAT GIRL We can’t help but be a little excited when a jewellery brand produce sunglasses as well, it just seems like the height of glamor. There’s just something about covering your eyes with dark lenses, that speak of decadence, mystery and just awesomeness. So it’s only natural that something as decadent as a jewellery brand that also makes shades – it has the same glamor. But unlike jewellery, sunglasses also has a practical aspect, to keep you from sun damage or snow blindness – sunglasses are a versatile accessory. But why not wear some bejeweled shades like these from SHAMBALLA JEWELS to add some mystery and glamor to your autumn or on your ski trip – these shades can do it all. Find at www.shamballajewels.com or www.poulstigbriller.dk

ARMOR UP Medieval armory may have gone out of style, but it’s still a rough world out there, so armoring up may not be a bad idea, if you want to avoid getting hurt – or maybe you already have gotten hurt and need consoling. We recommend some hard core jewellery from NINNA YORK for your modern day armor, which functions both as aesthetic finery and probably also as self defense tools. Also, if you’ve already been hurt in this tough world, you may take solace in some shimmering accessories - we know we always do...well that and booze and calories. Find at www.ninnayork.com

Sense and sensibility Shoe troubles? Here’s some trouble known by men and women a like. Why is it that pretty, formal shoes seem to have a hatred of feet – why (insert your favorite deity), why? But help is neigh, NATURE is a unisex shoe brand, which is coming to your rescue. These shoes are actually shaped like feet – gosh, what will people think of next! We know, foot shaped footwear is not really our thing usually either. But these foot shaped shoes from NATURE is actually really pretty and they come in pretty, shimmery, shiny metallics – both gold and silver. It’s truly a blessed day, when fashion sensibility and common sense merge in the same pair of shoes. Find at www.nature.dk

looking for answers They say that the answer is never at the bottom of a bottle – but are they sure!? After all, who has ever finished an entire bottle of gin in one sitting and remembered what was at the bottom of the bottle?? Although, gin is see-through, so I guess you wouldn’t need to drink the gin in order to check if there was some sort of answer to your problems at the bottom of the bottle. But a flask on the other hand, like this handsome one from BARBOUR, is not see-through at all. You can’t see what’s at the bottom of that flask no matter what spirit you’re storing in there. So therefor you will have to finish your poison of choice before maybe finding the answer at the bottom – like a toxic plastic toy in a cereal box, back in our childhood. Okay, this may be a very weak excuse to just buy this awesome flask from BARBOUR and to get drunk, while on the go. But hey, who has the time to go to a bar, ergo, a flask is a total time saver and thus solve some problems – unless your problems is alcoholism we guess, but that’s not where we’re at (yet).....so bottoms up and let the hunt for answers begin! Find at www.barbour.com

CIAO BELLA We absolutely love a good wayfarer-like pair of shades – it just brings out memories of the big guy, by which we mean the legendary Marcello Mastroianni in La Dolce Vita (we’re obsessed with that movie). This pair of shades are from the jewellery brand SHAMBALLA JEWELS. You can easily see the jewellery heritage in these sunglasses, but without overdoing it (thankfully it’s not “bling”). After all we don’t dream of being a rapper, we dream of seducing our way through 60’s Rome, Mastroianni-style. But all that seducing can lead to some trouble, like in every movie Mastroianni has ever been in. So maybe the shades have a practical aspect, maybe they’re to go incognito, as well as keep the sun from a pair of light sensitive hangover-eyes. We’re definitely eying (haha, eying...it’s eyewear - you get it, you get it?) these shades to our autumn escapades. Find at www.shamballajewels.com or www.poulstigbriller.dk

one coat to rule them all Winter is coming and nothing solves winter depression or cold like a good and classic woolen mens coat – with a modern twist of course. We’re madly infatuated with the blue, wool mens coat from HENRIK VIBSKOV. Autumn/winter always offer amble choices when comes to mens wool coats, so choosing one, can often be troublesome. But this coat from HENRIK VIBSKOV is full of amazing details and twists – notice it’s big square pockets, soft, big shoulders and rounded sleeves – it’s these details which has made this coat, our favorite mens coat of the season. Find at www.henrikvibskov.com

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